1212- diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukuk – II (CREATING TEXTURES ON TEXTILES-II) fiNys ikB esa diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukus ds pkj ek/;eksa@fof/k;ksa dk o.kZu fd;k x;k FkkA bl ikB esa ge nks vkSj fof/kvksa dk v/;;u djsaxsA
1212-0 mís'; bl ikB ds v/;;u ds Ik'pkr~ vki % • diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukus dh nks fof/k;k¡ ds ckjs esa tku ldsaxsA
1212-1 çLrkouk VSDl~pj~ fMt+kbu dk ,d egRoiw.kZ rRo gSA ç—fr esa cgqr ls VSDl~pj~ miyC/k gSa tks gesa mRikn ij mlh çdkj dk VSDlpj cukus ds fy, Áks~Rlkfgr djrs gSa rFkk mRiknksa ds egRo dks c<+krs gSaA fiNys ikB esa diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukuk] fofHkUu cqukbZ dh lajpuk] ifjlTtk rFkk xqQk dyk fMt+kbu ds ç;ksx dk o.kZu fd;k x;k FkkA bl ikB esa diM+s dk gLrdkS'ky rFkk Áfrjks/kd jaxkbZ }kjk VSDl~pj~ cukus dk o.kZu fd;k tk;sxkA
12~pj~ (TEXTURE ON FABRIC) 12-2 diM+s ij VSDl~ lpj~ pj 1212-2-1 diM+s dk gLrdkS”ky (FABRIC MANIPULATION) diM+s dh gLrdkS'ky rduhd }kjk cgqr gh jkspd VSDl~pj~ cuk;s tk ldrs gSaA gLrdkS'ky rduhd diM+s ds mRiknksa dh xq.koŸkk c<+krh gSA xq.koÙkk c<+kus ds fy, ijnksa rFkk dq'ku ij VSDl~pj~ dk ç;ksx fd;k tkrk gaSA bl rduhd ds dqN mnkgj.k gSa ^fiu VDl* (pin tucks) ¼fp=]12-1½ tks deht+] itkes] lyokj deht+ vkfn ij ns[ks tk ldrs gSaA ^pqUuV* Mkyuk ,d gLrdkS'ky rduhd gS tks fd ¼fp=]12-2 esa fn[kkbZ xbZ ÝkWd~ rFkk LdVZ½ ^Hkjko* ds (fullness) vkdkj ds vuqlkj ifj/kku dks vkjkenk;d cukrh gSaA diM+s dh gLrdkS'ky rduhd pqUuV Mkyus (gathers) dk ,d uewuk gaSA *Leksafdx* (smocking) oL= esa yphykiu rFkk Hkjko ykus ds fy, ç;ksx esa ykbZ tkrh gaS rFkk ifj/kku tSls ukbVh] csch ÝkWd] LdVZ rFkk VkWi ds fy, ç;qDr gksrh gaSA ¼fp=]12-2½
fp= 1212-1 fiu VDl
fp= 1212-2 pqUuV okyh ÝkWd rFkk LdVZ
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fp= 1212-3 Leksafdx
fp= 1212-4 fDoYV
fDofYVax (Quilting) ¼fp=]12-4½ dk ç;ksx xn~fn;ksa] fcNkou rFkk lnhZ ds diM+ksa tSls tSdV rFkk csch lwV vkfn dks ueZ rFkk vkjkenk;d VSDl~pj~ nsus ds fy, gksrk gSA dqN d'khnkdkjh] tSls dk¡Fkk d'khnkdkjh ¼fp=]12-5½] fpdudkjh ¼fp=]12-6½ ;k Qqydkjh ¼fp=]12-7½ ,d jkspd VSDl~pj~ cukrs gSa tks ,d nwljs ls fHkUu gksrs gSaA
fp= 1212-5 dk¡Fkk d'khnkdkjh d'khnkdkjh
fp= 1212-6 fpdudkjh
fp= 1212-7 Qwydkjh
1212-2-2 Áfrjks/kd jaxkbZ fof/k (RESIST DYEING METHODS) dkxt+ ;k diM+s ij ckfVd ¼fp=]12-8½ rFkk VkbZ ,oa MkbZ ¼fp=]12-9½ Áfrjks/kd jaxkbZ dh rduhdsa gSaA ewy fopkj ;g gS fd ftl LFkku ij Áfrjks/k ds vk/kkj dk ç;ksx fd;k gSa ogk¡ ls MkbZ ;k jax dks ikj djus esa :dkoV iSnk djukA
fp= 1212-8 ckfVd ckfVd
fp= 1212-9 VkbZ ,oa MkbZ
ge diM+s ij xeZ ekse dk ç;ksx bl çdkj djrs gSa fd tc diM+s dks jax esa fHkxks;k tkrk gS rks diM+s esa iwjh rjg jax p<+ tkrk gS ijUrq ml LFkku ij tgk¡ ekse yxk gksrk gS jax ugha p<+rkA ;gh fof/k ge isij ckfVd ds fy, ysrs gSaA ;gk¡ ge diM+s ds cnys dkxt+ rFkk oSDl Øs;kWu dks xeZ ekse ds cnys ç;ksx esa ykrs gSa ¼fp=]12-10½A vki dkxt+ ij oSDl Øs;kWu dk ç;ksx fMt+kbu esa viuh bPNk 2 fp=% 1212-10 Áfrjks/k fof/k dkxt+ ij oSDl Øs;ksu ds ç;ksx }kjk
vuqlkj dj ldrs gSa rFkk 'khV dks ,d ;k vusd jaxksa ls jax ldrs gSaA vkius tgk¡ ,d ckj jax dk ç;ksx fd;k gks ogka ij ckj ckj cz'k ugha pykuk pkfg,A vki cgqjaxh; jax ;kstuk }kjk ,d la;kstu cuk ldrs gSa rFkk 'khV dks dkys jax ls jaxsaA nwljk la;kstu dsoy lQsn Øs;kWu }kjk cuk;sa rFkk mldks viuh bPNk ds vuqlkj cgqr ls jaxksa ls jxsaA
1212-2-3 NikbZ (PRINTS) diM+s ij NikbZ }kjk Hkh VSDl~pj~ dk fMt+kbu fn;k tk ldrk gaSA LVsfUly NikbZ dks mnkgj.k fp=]12-11 esa fn;k x;k gSA dqN nwljh NikbZ dh rduhdsa vkidks vxys lsesLVj ds bl dkslZ esa foLrkj ls crkbZ tk;saxh] os gSa BIik NikbZ rFkk LØhu NikbZA fp= 1212-11 LVsfUly NikbZ
xfrfof/k (ACTIVITY) 1-
,d csch lwV ij fofHkUu VSDl~pj~ dk ç;ksx djds fMt+kbu cuk,A lQsn ij dsoy lQsn VSDl~pj~ dk gh ç;ksx djsaA lQsn iksLVj jax ls ,d fMt+kbu cuk;sa] Qsfczd fDoYV ¼fDoYV eki½ 4ß x 5ß rkfd dkxt ij dke djrs le; eki 2ß x 2-5ß gks lds rFkk fejj fjihV (mirror repeated) cuk;k tk lds½A VSDlpj cukus ds fy, js[kkvksa dks jax djsa ftl ij gkFk ;k e'khu ls fDofYVax dh tk ldsA
Lo;a tk¡p ç” ç”u 1- jaxkbZ dh nks Áfrjks/kd fof/k;ksa ds fo"k; esa fyf[k,A 2- vU; gLrdkS'ky rduhdksa ds uke crkb, ftUgsa vkius lh[kk gSA 3- Pkkj d'khnkdkjh ds uke fyf[k,] ftuds vki diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ ds :Ik esa cuk ldrs gSaA
1212-3 nÙk dk;Z 1212-3-1 d{kk dk;Z 3
i) jcj lksY;w”ku ,oa eksecÙkh dh cwanksa ds ç;ksx }kjk %
• jcj lksY;w'ku% jcj lksY;w'ku dh V;wc vklkuh ls miyC/k gS tks lkbZfdy V;wCl esa iapj yxkus esa mi;ksx dh tkrh gSA ,d V~;wc dk ewY; 5 ls 7 :Ik;s gks ldrk gSA jcj lksY;w'ku dh cwansa ,d 'khV ij Mky dj V~;wc dks dqN frjNk j[krs gq, dksbZ fMt+kbu cuk;saA 'khV ij jcj lksY;w'ku dk ç;ksx /;ku iwoZd djsa] D;ksafd vf/kd t+kjs ls nckus ls cgqr vf/kd ek=k esa lksY;w'ku fudy tk;sxkA lksY;w'ku dks lw[kus nsaA 'khV dks cgqr ls jaxksa ls jaxsA 'khV dks iw.kZ lw[kus nsaA lw[kus ij jcj lksY;w'ku dks viuh NksVh maxyh (index finger) ls FkiFkik dj mrkj nsaA m¡xyh dks cgqr dkseyrk ls jxM+uk pkfg, ugha rks jcj lksY;w'ku ds lkFk isij Hkh QV tk;sxkA iwjs jcj lksY;w'ku dks gVkus ij vki ds }kjk cuk;h x;h fMt+kbu rS;kj fn[ksxhA vki vius fMt+kbu dks lqUnj cukus ds fy, dkys ;k pedhyh xksan ls jcj lksY;w'ku fMt+kbu dh Ckkg; js[kk cuk ldrs gSaA • eksecÙkh dh cwansa ,d fMt+kbu@fp=@çk—frd n`”;] vk/kh bEihfj;y 'khV ij ,d vkjafHkd (rough) js[kk fp= cukb,A ,d eksecÙkh tykb, rFkk mldks Vs<k+ djds viuh fMt+kbu 'khV ij oSDl dh cwanksa dks bl çdkj fxjk,a] fd cw¡nsa dsoy mlh LFkku ij fxjsa] ftl la;kstu ij vki jax dk gYdk çHkko j[kuk pkgrs gSa ;k ml txg tgk¡ vki xgjkbZ ugha pkgrs gSaA fi?kys gq, ekse dks Mkyus ds Ik'pkr~] 'khV dks fofHkUu L;kgh }kjk jaxs ;k çk—frd n`”; esa vko';drk vuqlkj jax HkjsA jax 'khV ij QSy tk;sxk ijUrq lw[ks gq, ekse ds Åij ls gV tk;sxk D;ksafd ;g ty :) (water proof) gksrk gSA ekse ls cus NksVs o`Ÿkksa ij jax ugha p<+sxk rFkk vius rjhds dk vikjn'khZ ÁHkko ds lkFk VSDl~pj~ cuk nsxkA vk/kh bEihfj;y 'khV ij jcj lksY;w'ku VSDlpj dks eksecÙkh dh cwanksa ls feykdj cuk;sA budks nks vyx vyx jaxksa dh L;kgh ls jaxsaA L;kgh lw[kus ij jcj lksY;w'ku dks gVk;k tk ldrk gSA ii) dq'ku doj ij nks ;k nks ls vf/kd VSDl~pj~ dks feyk dj fMt+kbu cuk;s ¼xn~fn;ksa dk eki
10ß x 10ß½A
1212-3-2 x`g dk;Z i) ,d Lekjd dk LVsfUly dkfV,A bldks vyx&vyx VSDl~pj~ okyh oLrqvksa tSls] iRFkj]
nkysa] vukt ls Hkjsa rFkk pkjksa vksj dh lrg dks isafly }kjk f?kldj HkjsaA 1@4 bEihfj;y 'khV ij nks —fr;k¡ cuk,A ,d —fr esa vki rktegy dh :ijs[kk ds fy, Lekjd VSDl~pj~ dk çHkko ys ldrs gSaA vki çR;sd ?ksjs dks vyx&vyx VSDl~pj~ ls Hkj ldrs gSaA ii)
nky ;k pkoy ls fHkUu&fHkUUk VSDl~pj~ fn[kkb,A rFkk 1@2 vk/kh bEihfj;y 'khV ij 6B isafly }kjk vyx&vyx dk;Z djsaA ,d 'khV dks 6 cjkcj vk;krksa esa ck¡Vs rFkk 1** dk gkf”k;k (margin) muds pkjksa vksj cuk,a o ,d ikjn'khZ tkj dk js[kk fp= <Ddu ds lkFk cuk,A bldks ,d <sj ds VSDl~pj~ ls Hkfj, tks vkids lkeus gksA
iii)
iw.kZ rFkk vk/kh bEihfj;y 'khV tSlk vki Bhd le>rs gSa ij la;kstu djsaA og lHkh çdkj ds VSDl~pj~ tks vc rd vkius lh[ks gSa] vH;kl ds fy, cuk,aA çk—frd n`';] c/kkbZ i=] Qwynku] Qwyksa dk xqPNk] frrfy;k¡] isM+] i{kh] eNyh] Lekjd vkfn cukvksA lHkh lEHko 4
çHkko fn[kk,aA vki ,d vewrZ la;kstu Hkh cuk ldrs gSaA isafly ls f?kldj Hkh ç;ksx dj ldrs gksA ,d ;k nks vyx&vyx VSDl~pj~ ds lfEEkJ.k dks feykdj fMt+kbu cuk,A
1212-4 lkjka”k bl ikB esa fuEufyf[kr dk foospu fd;k x;k gSa% diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukus dh rduhd] NikbZ] gLrdkS'ky rFkk ifjlTtk }kjk diM+s esa VSDl~pj~ MkyukA
1212-5 Lo;a tk¡p ç”uksa ds laHkkfor mÙkj 1. ckfVd rFkk VkbZ ,oa MkbZ 2. fiu VDl] Leksafdx] pqUuV rFkk fDofYV~ax 3. dkaFkk] fpdudkjh] Qqydkjh rFkk Leksafdx
1212-6 vH;klkFkZ ç” ç”u 1. gLrdkS'ky }kjk vki diM+s esa VSDl~pj~ dSls cuk ldrs gSaA 2. ifjlTtk ds fofHkUUk pj.kksa }kjk diM+s esa VSDl~pj~ cukus ds dqN mnkgj.k nhft,A
1212-7 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 1. Anonymous 2006. The complete Guide to Drawing and printing. Quantum Publishing Ltd., London.
2. Susan, M. and Joost, E. 1991. Textile Designs. Thames and Hudson Ltd., London.
1212-8 'kCnkoyh 1. 2. 3.
Áfrjks/kd vikjn'khZ ifjlTtk
ck/kd ftlds ikj u fn[kkbZ iM+s ltkoV
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