ikB 11 iVksyk (PATOLA) lajpuk 1111-0 mÌs’; 11--1 izLrkouk 11 1111-2 ,sfrgkfld i`"BHkwfe 1111-3 rduhd 1111-4 fMt+kbu 1111-5 nRr dk;Z
1111-5-1 d{kk dk;Z 1111-5-2 x`g dk;Z
1111-6 lkjka’k 1111-7 Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj 1111-8 vH;klkFkZ iz’u 1111-9 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 1111-10 'kCnkoyh
11 iVksyk (PATOLA) fiNys v/;k; esa geus jsft+LV MkbZ o VkbZ&MkbZ }kjk fd, x, nks izfl) ikjEifjd oL= bDdr vkSj cka/kuh ds fo"k; esa tkudkjh izkIr dhA VkbZ&Mkb ds vusd :i gaSA dqN esa diM+s dks cquus ls igys tgk¡ ij uewwus gksrs gSa mlds vuqlkj /kkxksa dks Mkb fd;k tkrk gS tks diM+s dh cqukbZ ds le; vius vki mHkj dj vkrs gSaA xqtjkr ds ikVu dk Mcy bDdr iVksyk flYd bldk ,d vPNk mnkgj.k gSA vktdy lHkh Hkkjrh; oL=ksa esa ;g lcls vf/kd egaxk o Áfl) gSA vkt ge iVksyk ds fo"k; esa v/;;u djsaxsA
1111-0 mÌs’; (Objectives) bl v/;k; dks i<+us ds ckn vki% • iVksyk cqukbZ dh tfVy rduhd ds fo"k; esa tkusaxsA • fofHkUu izdkj ds iVksyk lkfM+;ksa ds fMt+kbu ls ifjfpr gksaxsA
1111-1 izLrkouk (Introduction) jsft+LV MkbZ fof/k ls fufeZr xqtjkr dh iVksyk flYd lkM+h izfl) gSA /kkfeZd mRloksa ds fy, cquh tkus okyh Mcy bDdr lkM+h cgqr dherh vkSj ltkoVh gksrh gSA iVksyk lkM+h dk mn~Hko vn~Hkqr dyk ^ckU/kuk* ls gqvkA ;g Hkkjr ds jsft+LV Mkbax oL=ksa esa ls lcls vf/kd lqUnj gSA ;g dkjhxj dh dkjhxkjh dk cgqr gh lqUnj mnkgj.k gS tks fd vufxur ihf<+;ksa dk vuqHko gSA dkjhxj dk ifjokj ftlesa cPps Hkh bl dk;Z dks djrs gSa cpiu ls gh bl dk;Z dks lh[krs gSaA GUJARAT ORISSA
ANDHRA PRADESH
Regions in India where Patola is done
2
Hkkjr ds vU; nks jkT; tSls mM+hlk vkSj vkU/kzizns’k iVksyk flYd diM+s dk fuekZ.k djrs gSa ijUrq buds uewus cgqr gh lk/kkj.k o rkus ckus esa bdr dk feyk tqyk :i gSA Mcy b+Ddr dh rduhd vR;Ur dfBu gS ;g xqtjkr esa iVksyk flYd lkM+h ds :i esa iw.kZ fodflr gS ¼fp= 11-2½A fMt+kbu ds vuqlkj uewus] fu/kkZfjr jax ,d lkFk feydj rkus o ckus esa /kkxksa dks tksM+rs gSaA iVksyk vR;f/kd tfVy vkSj esgur dk dk;Z gS vkSj fo’ks"k 'kqHk voljksa ij iz;ksx djus okyk oL= gSA
1111-2 ,sfrgkfld
i`"BHkwfe
(Historical
Background) iVksyk dh cqukbZ o jaxkbZ dh rduhd dk fodkl ik¡poh 'krkCnh esa xqIr 'kklu ds Lof.kZe dky esa gqvk tks fd X;kjgoha 'krkCnh rd iw.kZ :i ls fodflr gqvkA iVksyk dk vkjEHk dc ls gqvk ;g fofnr ugha gSA ,d Ldwy vuqlkj vjc cqudjksa us bldks vkjEHk fd;k tks fd Hkkjr esa vkdj cl x, FksA nwljs yksxksa dk dguk gS fd ;g FkkbyS.M vkSj dEcksfM;k esa ikbZ xbZ] tgk¡ ls fodflr gksdj b.Mksusf’k;k vkSj Hkkjr esa QSyhA b+Ddr uke b.Mksusf’k;k ds }kjk fn;k x;k ftldk vFkZ gS cka/kukA b.Mkspkbuk esa leikFkM ds uke ls tkuk tkrk gSA Hkkjr ds xqtjkr 'kgj esa bl cqukbZ dks iVksyk uke ls] vkU/kzizns’k esa rsyh;k :eky vkSj ikspeiYyh] rFkk mM+hlk esa b+Ddr ¼fp= 11-3½ ds uke ls tkuk tkrk gSA pUnzk ds vuqlkj ¼1961½ czãtky lw= ¼4oha 'krkCnh½ esa ftl diM+s ^iVkfydk* dk o.kZu gS og okLrOk esa ^iVksyq* ¼iVksyk½ gSA
fp= 1111- 2 xqtjkr dk iVksyk uewuk
fp= 1111- 3 mM+hlk dk flaxy bDdr uewuk
6oha o 7oha 'krkCnh ds vtUrk xqQkvksa ds fHkfRr fp=ksa ¼fp= 11-4½ esa bdr dh cqukbZ ds leku fn[kkbZ nsus okys oL=ksa ij eNyh] /kkjhnkj o oxkZdkj uewus ns[ks tk ldrs gSaA cqukbZ ls iwoZ VkbZ ,.M MkbZ fd;s rkus o ckus esa uewus lqUnjrk ls curs gSa tks fd Mcy bdr ds uke ls tkus tkrs gSaA mM+hlk ds dkjhxjksa us Hkh iVksyk dh rduhd dks viuk;k] vkSj mlls fo’ks"k izdkj ds oL= tSls pknjsa] ijns] vks<+uh] flj ij ck¡/kus okyk diM+k] yqaxh] ixM+h vkSj lkM+h vkfn cuk,¡A vkU/kzizns’k esa ikspeiYyh o fpjkyk ¼fp= 11-5½ esa rsyh;k :eky cuk;s tkrs gSa] tks fd eNqvkjk leqnk; }kjk oxkZdkj vkdkj esa cqus tkrs gSa tSls flj ij cka/kus okyk diM+k o yqaxh] ckn esa ;g lkfM+;ksa ds fy, izfl) gq,A 3
fp= 1111- 4 vtUrk xqQk,a
fp= 1111- 5 vkU/kzizns’k dk ikspeiYyh uewuk
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 1.
iVksyk mRiknu dk eq[; dsUnz dkSu lk gS\
1111-3 rduhd (Process) iVksyk dh cqukbZ yEch o dfBu gSA dsoy 1 fnu esa 25 lseh- diM+k gh cuk;k tk ldrk gSA iVksyk dk;Z eq[; :i ls lkYoh tkfr dh fL=;ksa }kjk fd;k tkrk gSA ;g ÁfØ;k fuEu izdkj ls dh tkrh gS% lkYoh tkfr dh fL=;k¡ vdsyh gh yfPN;ksa dks [kksyus ;k cka/kus dk dk;Z djrh gSaA blds ckn flYd yfPN;ksa dks Cyhp ¼lQsn djoq½ fd;k tkrk gSA lw[kus ds ckn] js’ke dks ckWfcu esa yisVk tkrk gS rFkk rkus ckus dks rS;kj djus ds fy, pj[ks ij yisVk tkrk gSA 4. fofHkUu izdkj ds uewuksa esa vkdkj o jax ds iz;ksx ds vuqlkj loZizFke uewuksa dks iw.kZ :i ls xzkQ isij ij cuk;k tkrk gSA 5. blds ckn 12 /kkxksa ds lewg dks ,d lkFk rkus ds fy, Á;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA 6. ,d le; esa /kkxs dh ftruh ek=k rS;kj dh tkrh gS og rhu lkfM+;ksa dks cquus ds fy, Ik;kZIr gksrh gSA 7. ,d lkM+h ds fy, rhu rkuksa dh yEckbZ dks bl izdkj yisVk tkrk gS fd og ,d nwljs ds Åij vk;sA 8. rkus ds /kkxksa dks vk;rkdkj ydM+h ds Ýse ij QSyk fn;k tkrk gS vkSj uewus ds vk/kkj ij /kkxksa dks lewg esa ck¡V fn;k tkrk gSA 9. rkus o ckus tc Ýse ij rS;kj gks tkrs gSa rks bUgsa ges’kk lh/kh rjQ ls cka/kuk vkjEHk djrs gSaA blds fy, /kkxksa vkSj iqj kus diM+ksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA 10. /kkxksa ds vyx vyx fgLls cka/ks o jaxs tkrs gSA 11. ikjEifjd :I ls izkÑfrd jaxksa }kjk jaxkbZ gksrh gS ysfdu vc jklk;fud jaxksa dk izpyu c<+ x;k gSA L=h ,oa iq:"k nksuksa gh jaxkbZ djrs gSaA 12. blds i’pkr~ iqu % /kkxksa dks Ýse ij yisVk tkrk gSA vc vUnj dk uewuk iw.kZ :i ls fn[kkbZ nsus yxrk gSA 13. <hys /kkxksa dks ;k rks dl fn;k tkrk gS ;k fudky fn;k tkrk gS vkSj rkus dks /;ku iwoZd ywe ij LFkkukarfjr dj fn;k tkrk gSA 14. ckus ds /kkxksa dks vyx djds cqukbZ ds fy, ckW fcu ij yisV fy;k tkrk gSA 15. iVksyk ds ywe cgqr gh lk/kkj.k gksrs gSa vkSj bUgsa ckal }kjk gkFk ls cuk;k tkrk gSA 16. ywe dks tehu ij FkksM k frjNk j[kk tkrk gS vkSj cqukbZ ds fy, nks yksxksa dh vko’;drk gksrh gSA 1. 2. 3.
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 2.
lQsn djoq fdl izdkj gksrk gS\
3.
[kkyh LFkku Hkjsa%
4
iVksyk dh cqukbZ -------------------- o-------------------- gksrh gSA dsoy ,d fnu esa ------------------ lseh- diM+k cquk tkrk gSA
gh
1111-4 fMt+kbu (Design) iVksyk fMt+kbu Li"V] nksgjkus okys vkSj T;kferh; gksrs gSA fMt+kbu rhu izdkj ds gksrs gSa% 1. 2.
'kq) T;kferh; vkdkj tSls uojRu HkV~V ¼ToSyjh] pkSdksj fMt+kbu½A Qwyksa vkSj lfCt;ksa ds uewus tSls oksgjk HkV~V ¼oksgjk tkfr ds fMt+kbu½] ikuHkê ¼iku dh iRrh] ihiy dh iRrh½ NkcM+h Hkê ¼Qwy o Vksdjh uewuk½ vkSj Qqyokjh ¼Qwyksa ds fMt+kbu½A
3.
ukjh dks iznf’kZr djus okys uewus ¼ukprh gqbZ L=h½ dqatj ¼gkFkh½ vkSj iksiV ¼rksrk½A
iVksyk dh eq[; fo’ks"krk ;g gS fd blesa oL=ksa ij nksuksa rjQ vkM+h frjNh ykbuksa okys uewus gksrs gSaA iVksyk lkM+h dk ckWMZj lknk t+jh ds lkFk gksrk gS ¼fp= 11-8½ bldh vis{kk mM+hlk dk bdr vkSj vkU/kzizns’k dk rsyh;k :eky] ftlesa cquk gqvk ckWMZj rFkk ikspeiYyh lkM+h esa flaxy jsft+LV MkbZ fd;k lqugjk ckWMZj gksrk gSA eq[;r% lHkh iVksyk oL=ksa esa ftl izdkj ds uewus vUnj /kjkry ij curs gSa mlh izdkj ds iYyq o ckWMZj ij curs gSaA dqN Mcy bdr lkfM+;ksa esa lknk /kjkry ds lkFk ckWMZj vkSj iYyw ,d jax esa fd;k tkrk gSA iVksyk oL=ksa ij ik;s tkus okys vk/kkjHkwr uewus bl izdkj gSa% i) NkcM+h Hkê] Vksdjh uewuk ii) Qqyokjh Hkê] Qwyksa okys uewus
5
fp= 1111-6 t+jh ckWMZj ds lkFk iVksyk lkM+h
iii) j
i
iv
ii
iii
v
vi
ru pkS d Hkê] ToS yjh uew us tks fd T;k fer h; vk dkj esa gksrs gSaA iv) i
vii
viii
ix
fp= 1111-7 iVksyk oL=ksa ds lkekU; uewus
v) vi) vii) viii) ix)
ku Hkê] ihi y iRr h
dk uewuk okWyuV uewuk] ;g nknk Hkê ;k cky uewus ds leku gksrk gSA ukjh dqatj Hkê] L=h vkSj gkFkh nksuksa fo’ks"k vkdkj esa gksrs gSaA iksiV dqatj] tc dsoy rksrk vkSj gkFkh dk iz;ksx uewuksa esa gksrk gSA ck?k okj gkFkh Hkê] bu uewuksa esa ck?k vkSj 12 gkFkh gksrs gSaA oksgjk phj Hkê] 'kknh o /kkfeZd mRloksa ds fy, oksgjk eqlyekuksa ds }kjk T;kferh; vkdkj eas uewus cuk;s tkrs gSaA
xqtjkr esa fgUnw] tSu vkSj oksgjk tkfr ds eqlyekuksa ds }kjk ikjEifjd iVksyk lkfM+;k¡ iguh tkrh gaSA
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) xqtjkr esa iVksyk lkM+h fdl leqnk; }kjk iguh tkrh gS\ [kkyh LFkku Hkjsa% iVksyk dh eq[; --------------- ;g gS fd blds ------------------------ vkM+h frjNh ykbuksa okys uewus gksrs gSaA 4. 5.
6
1111-5 nRr dk;Z (Assignments) 1111-5-1 d{kk dk;Z (Class Assignments) i) MªkWbax 'khV ij iVksyk lkM+h ckWMZj dh jsfIydk cukb;sA ii) iVksyk esa iz;ksx gksus okys fofHkUu uewus cuk,aA
1111-5-2 x`g dk;Z (Home Assignments) i)
lkM+h dh nqdku] fdrkcksa] eSXthu] usV ls iVksyk diM+s ds dqN uewus ,df=r djsa tks fd iVksyk dh fofHkUu rduhd o vyx fof/k izdV djsaA mUgsa lQkbZ ls ist ij fpidk,a o izR;sd QksVks o fiDpj ds uhps uke fyf[k;sA
1111-6 lkjka’k (Summing Up) iVksyk Mcy bDdr fof/k ds }kjk cquh flYd dh lkM+h gSA iVksyk cqukbZ dk eq[; dsUnz xqtjkr esa ikVu gSA eq[; :i ls lkYoh lEiznk; ds cqudj bl diM+s dks cqurs gSaA iVksyk fMt+kbu Li"V] nksgjkus okys o T;kferh; gksrs gSaA fMt+kbu rhu izdkj ds gksrs gSa% (i) 'kq) T;kferh;] (ii) Qwyksa o lfCt;ksa ds uewus vkSj (iii) ekuo vkÑfr] tkuoj] fpfM;ksa ij vk/kkfjr uewusA iVksyk cukus dh rduhd vf/kd yEch o tfVy gS bldk iz;ksx mRloksa esa iz;ksx gksus oL=ksa ds fy, fd;k tkrk gSA vktdy iVksy k lkM+h dh dher 4-500 :i;s gSa D;ksafd ;g flYd ls curh gS rFkk blds uewus o jax 'kqHk ekus tkrs gSaA fL=;k¡ bldks 'kknh o vU; R;ksgkjksa ds voljksa ij igurh gSA ikjEifjd iks’kkdka dssa de Á;ksx vkSj 'kgjh miHkksDrk ckt+kj lss bdr e’k: dk tUe gqvk tks fd pednkj lSfVu esa jaxhu /kkfj;ksa ds lkFk js’ke lk izHkko mRiUu djrh gS ;g lSfVu cqukbZ esa cquh tkrh gS ftlesa flYd rkuk /kjkry esa o lwrh ckuk mlds vUnj cqukbZ esa iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA vktdy xqtjkr esa jktdksV jkT; ds dqN xk¡o esa flaxy b+Ddr iVksyk dh cqukbZ gksrh gSA blds uewus ikVu mRiknu ds ckjhd uewuksa dh vis{kk lk/kkj.k o lkekU; gksrs gSaA ckt+kj dh ek¡x ds vuqlkj Nih gqbZ iVksyk cgqr ghs lLrh gS o vktdy ewy iVksyk ds fMt+kbu dh udy Hkh ckt+kj esa csph tk jgh gSA
1111-7 Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj (Possible Answers to Selfcheck Questions) 1. 2. 3. 4. 7
xqtjkr iVksyk mRiknu dk eq[; dsUnz gSA js’ke dh yfPN;ksa dks Cyhp djuk lQsn djoq dgykrk gSA [kkyh LFkku Hkjsa% iVksyk dh cqukbZ yEch o tfVy gSA dsoy ,d fnu esa 25 lseh- diM+k gh cquk tkrk gSA ikjEifjd iVksyk lkM+h fgUnw] tSu vkSj oksgjk eqlyekuksa }kjk xqtjkr esa fd;k tkrk gSA
5.
[kkyh LFkku Hkjsa% iVksyk dh eq[; fo’ks"krk ;g gS fd blds nksuksa rjQ vkM+h frjNh ykbuksa okys uewus gksrs gSaA
1111-8 vH;klkFkZ iz’u (Terminal Questions) 1. iVksyk lkM+h ij fdl izdkj ds fMt+kbu curs gSa\ 2. jsft+LV MkbZax ls vki D;k le>rs gSa\ 3. iVksyk lkM+h esa ikjEifjd :i ls fdl izdkj dk diM+k iz;ksx gksrk gS\ 4. iVksyk oL=ksa ds mRiknu esa xqtjkr dk dkSu lk leqnk; lfEefyr gS\ 5. iVksyk mRiknu esa xqtjkr ds vfrfjDr vkSj dkSu ls jkT; tkus tkrs gSa\ 6. iVksyk cqukbZ ds fy, ikVu D;ksa izfl) gS\ 7. iVksyk ds izeq[ k y{k.k D;k gaS\ 8. ywe ij ,d ys[k fy[ksaA 9. ik¡p ehVj iVksyk lkM+h cukus esa fdrus le; dh vko’;drk gksxh\ 10. D;k iVksyk lkM+h ds iYyq o ckWMZj ij ,d fo’ks"k izdkj dk fMt+kbu iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS\ 11. iVksyk esa ik, tkus okys ¼Hkê½ fMt+kbu ds uke fy[ksaA 12. iksiV dqatj Hkê ds ckjs esa o.kZu djsaA 13. ml LFkku dk uke crk,¡ tgk¡ ij iVksyk ds leku flaxy bDdr dk izfr:i cquk tkrk gSA 14. iVksyk lkM+h dks yksx 'kqHk D;ksa ekurs gSa o dkSu ls R;ksgkjksa ij fL=;k¡ bls igurh gSa\ 15. iVksyk lkM+h ds eq[; y{k.k crk,aA 16. rkus o ckus ds Ýse ij rS;kj gksus ds ckn vxyh fØ;k D;k gksrh gSA 17. iVksyk esa rhu izdkj ds eq[; fMt+kbu dkSu ls gSa\ 18. lgh o xyr fy[ksa%
i) iVksyk cqukbZ dh rduhd vf/kd ifjJe okyh vR;f/kd yEch gksrh gS vkSj ,d fnu esa 50
lseh- diM+k iwjk gks ikrk gSA ii) iVksyk uewus Li"V] nksgjkus okys o T;kerh; gksrs gSaA iii) ikVu iVksyk esa gkFkh uewus ds lkFk ukprh gqbZ fL=;k¡ gksrh gaSA iv) tc dsoy gkFkh vkSj rksrs dk fMt+kbu esa iz;ksx gksrk gS mls ukjh dqatj
Hkê dgrs gSaA v) jktdksV dh iVksyk ikVu dh vis{kk vf/kd egaxh gksrh gSA 19. lgh
i) ii) iii) iv) v) vi)
8
feyku djsa% NkcM+h Hkê ukjh dqatj Hkê iku Hkê jru pkSd Hkê okWyuV Hkê
lgh@xyr lgh@xyr lgh@xyr lgh@xyr lgh@xyr
a) ihiy dh iRrh ds uewus b) Vksdjh uewus c) vkSjrksa o gkFkh dh vkÑfr d) ckWy uewus e) vkHkw"k.k
1111-9 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa (Suggested Further Reading and References) 1. Barnes, R., and Oth. 2002. Trade, Temple and Court Indian Textiles, Indian Book House Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai. 2. Bhatnagar, P. 2005. Decorative Design History in Indian Textiles and Costumes. Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh. 3. Bhatnagar, P. 2003. Traditional Indian Costumes and textiles. Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh 4. Desai, C. 1987. Ikat Textiles of India. Graphic-Sha Publ. Co.,Tokyo. 5. Gillow, J. and Barnard, N. 1991. Traditional Indian Textiles, Thames and Hudson Ltd., London. 6. Sarabhai, M. 1988. Patolas and Resist-dyed Fabrics of India. Mapin Pubication Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad.
1111-10 'kCnkoyh (Glossary) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
9
iwoZ dYiuk vR;f/kd yEck ifjJe ;qDr eghu fiDpj
igys ls iw.kZ :i ls Kku vf/kd yEck dk;Z ftuesa esgur yxs lw{e fp=