ikB 15 Qqydkjh vkSj ckx (PHULKARI AND BAGH) lajpuk 1515-0 mÌs’; 15--1 izLrkouk 15 1515-2 ,sfrgkfld i`"BHkwfe 1515-3 rduhdh fooj.k 15--4 fMt+kbu 15 1515-5 vU; Qqydkjh 1515-6 nRr dk;Z 1515-6-1 d{kk dk;Z 1515-62 x`g dk;Z
1515-7 lkjka’k 1515-8 Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj 15--9 vH;klkFkZ iz’u 15 1515-10 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 1515-11 'kCnkoyh
15 Qqydkjh vkSj ckx (PHULKARI AND BAGH) fiNys v/;k; esa geus d’ehj d’khnkdkjh ds fo"k; esa tkudkjh izkIr dhA bl v/;k; esa ge ,d vU; lqUnj vkSj pednkj d’khnkdkjh oL= ds fo"k; esa i<+saxs ftls iatkc dh Qqydkjh vkSj ckx ds uke tkuk tkrk gSA Qqydkjh 'kCn dk vFkZ gS Qwyksa dk dk;Z vkSj ;g dk;Z [kq’kh iznku djus okys ?kjsyw vkSj lkekftd mRloksa ds fy, fd;k tkrk gSA
1515-0 mÌs’; (Objectives) bl v/;k; dks i<us ds ckn vki% • iatkc dh d’khnkdkjh ds lkekU; fopkj ;k fo"k; dks tkusaxsA • Qqydkjh esa iz;ksx gksus okys fMt+kbu o fLVp ds ckjs esa i<+asxsA • fofHkUu izdkj ckx ds fo"k; esa i<+saxsA
1515-1 izLrkouk (Introduction) Hkkjrh; dkjhxj lwrh] flYd vkSj Åuh diM+s ij gkFk ls dh xbZ d’khnkdkjh }kjk mRiknu djus eas fuiq.k gksrs gSaA iatkc dh Qqydkjh esa MkuZ fLVp }kjk dk;Z mudh izfrHkk dks n’kkZrk gSA Qqydkjh ¼fp= 15-1½ vkSj ckx ¼fp= 15-2½ ikjEifjd d’khnkdkjh dh xbZ 'kkWyas gSaA Qqydkjh dk vFkZ gS ^Qwyksa dk dk;Z*] mRrjh iatkc esa gt+kjk] pdoky {ks= bl izdkj ds dk;Z ds fy, izfl) gSA Qqydkjh Qwyksa okys fo"k; ds uewus T;kferh; vkdkj esa cuk;s tkrs gSaA
fp= 1515-1 Qqydkjh 'kkWy
fp= 1515-2 ckx oL=
iatkc esa tkV leqnk; dh fL=;k¡ Qqydkjh ds dk;Z esa fuiq.k gksrh gSaA iatkc esa tgk¡ ij ;g yksx jgrs gSa ogk¡ ij Qqydkjh dk dk;Z fodflr vkSj le`) gSA orZeku esa jksgrd] fglkj] xqMxk¡¡o vkSj djuky d’khnkdkjh dk;Z ds eq[; dsUnz gSaA;s vkSipkfjd vk;kstuksa okyh 'kkWy ds 3
uke ls tkuh tkrh gaS iatkch yM+fd;k¡ 'kknh esa bl izdkj dh 'kkWy igurh gSa o eq[;r% bl 'kkWy dk vkdkj 1-5 x 2-5 ehVj gksrk gSA
1515-2 ,sfrgkfld i`"BHkwfe (Historical Background) izek.kksa ,oa rF;ksa ds vHkko esa ;g tkuuk vf/kd dfBu gS fd Qqydkjh dk izkjEHk dgk¡ ls gqvk gSA dqN yksxksa dk ekuuk gS fd Qqydkjh bZjku ls vkbZ tgk¡ bls ^xqydkjh^ dgk tkrk FkkA dqN dk ekuuk gS fd ;g e/; ,f’k;k ls vkbZA;s tkV tkfr ls lEcfU/kr gS ;s yksx Hkkjr vk;s vkSj iatkc] xqtjkr esa jktLFkku vkSj lkSjk"Vª ds Hkkxksa esa vkdj cl x;sA izkphure Qqydkjh izfl) u`R; ukfVdk ghj jka>k esa fn[kkbZ xbZ gSA Qqydkjh dk izkphure izek.k :eky izkIr gqvk gS og 15oha 'krkCnh esa xq: ukud nso dh cgu }kjk d<+kbZ fd;k x;k FkkA
1515-3 rduhdh fooj.k (Technical Detail)
fp= 1515-3 Qydkjh vkSj ckx esa iz;ksx gksus okyk diM+k
Qqydkjh vkSj ckx d’khnkdkjh dk dk;Z ?kj ij drs] cqus vkSj jaxs gq, eksVh [kknh ij fd;k tkrk gS D;ksafd ;g et+cwr] vf/kd le; rd pyus okyk gksrk gS rFkk bl ij vklkuh ls d<kbZ dh tk ldrh gS d<+kbZ djrs le; /kkxksa dks vklkuh ls fxuk tk ldrk gS ¼fp= 15-3½A xk¡o esa [kknh de pkSM+kbZ esa cquh tkrh gS rFkk bPNkuqlkj pkSM+kbZ ds fy, 2 VqdM+ksa dks vkil esa tksM+ fn;k tkrk gSA
d’khnkdkjh esa dksey] fcuk cVk gqvk js’ke dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS ftls ^iV* dgrs gSa flYd dk ;g /kkxk d’ehj] vQxkfuLrku vkSj caxky ls vkrs gaS ysfdu vPNh fdLe dk flYd phu ls vkrk gSA Msjkxkt+h [kku] ve`rlj vkSj tEew esa bls jaxk tkrk gS fQj [kkukcnks’k yksxksa }kjk iwjs iatkc es Hkstk tkrk gSA ihyk] yky] ukjaxh] uhyk] lQsn] cSaxuh] gjk vkSj xgjs Hkwjs jax dk iz;ksx MkfuZax fLVp }kjk fd;k tkrk gSA uewuksa dks diM+s ds myVh rjQ ls cuk;k tkrk gS ¼fp= 15-4 ls 15-9 fofHkUu Qqydkjh vkSj ckx½A
fp= 1515-9 Qqydkjh uhys /kkxs }kjk d’khnkdkjh
fp= 1515-4 xksHkh ckx
fp= 1515-5 pEck dk;Z
fp= 1515-6ygfj;k dk;Z
fp= 1515-6 Qqydkjh esa /kkfj;k¡
fp= 1515-7 ckou ckx
Qqydkjh dh lqUnjrk mldh eghurk] larqfyr jpuk] je.kh;rk vkSj jaxksa dh laxfr gS tks bls dyk dk okLrfod dk;Z cukrk gSA d’khnkdkjh lk/kkj.k yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp }kjk fd;k tkrk gS ¼fp= 15-10½A
fp= 1515-10 MkfuZax fLVp
fp= 1515-11 lsjheksfu;y ckx
/kkfeZd mRloksa ij iz;ksx gksus okyh eq[; izdkj dh Qqydkjh ^ckx* ds uke ls tkuh tkrh gSA bles iwjs /kjkry fcYdqy Hkh fn[kkbZ ugha nsrk ij d<+kbZ dh tkrh gSA bldk /kjkry ij Qqydkjh] ckx esa vyx ls iYys ugha curs] ijUrq dHkh dHkh ckx ds eq[; uewus fofHkUu izdkj ls lek;ksftr djds nksgjk;s tkrs gSa] ftl dkj.k T;kferh; uewus lqUnj yxrs gSaA
Lo;a tk¡¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 1. ^iV* ls D;k le>rs gSa\ 2. Qqydkjh esa iz;ksx gksus okyh lkekU; Vkads dkSu lh gSa\
[kkyh LFkku Hkjsa% 3. Qqydkjh vkSj ckx ?kj ij ---------------------] ----------------------] ----------------------] dkslZ ---------------- ij dh tkrh gS D;ksafd ;g et+cwr] vf/kd le; rd pyus okyh gksrh gSA bl ij d<kbZ vklkuh ls dh tkrh gS D;ksafd bles /kkxksa dks fxuk tk ldrk gSA
4. Qqydkjh dh ------------- mldh -----------------] larqfyr --------------------- je.kh; vkSj --------------- tks bl
dyk dks okLrfod cukrh gSA
1515-4 fMt+kbu (Design) Qqydkjh ds fMt+kbu dHkh dHkh Vsªl fd;s tkrs gSa ijUrq bldk dk;Z rkus o ckus ds /kkxksa dks fxudj fd;k tkrk gSA uewuksa ds fdukjs o vUnj okys Hkkx ij ;fn dHkh uewuk xyr cu tkrk gS rks gj jax ds /kkxs }kjk ogk¡ ij jfuax fLVp ls ykbu cuk nh tkrh gSA d’khnkdkjh /kkxksa dks fxudj] Vsªl }kjk o CykWd fiazafVax }kjk cuk, x, uewukas ij dh tkrh gSaA d’khnkdkjh lh/kh rjQ ls dh tkrh gSA vusd d’khnkdkjh jaxksa }kjk dh tkrh gS tSls nks jaxk ¼nks jax½ ¼fp= 15-12½] lrjaxk ¼lkr jaxk½¼fp= 15-13½] ipjaxk ¼ik¡p jax½ ¼fp= 15-14½A
fp= fp= 1515-12 nks jaxk ckx
fp= fp= 1515-13 lr jaxk ckx
fp= fp= 1515-14 ipjaxk Qqydkjh
Qqydkjh vkSj ckx d’khnkdkjh esa /kkfeZd fo"k;] njckj ds n`’;] f’kdkj vkSj taxy ds n`’; ugha fy, tkrs gSaA uewus fdlh fdrkc ;k Mk;xzke ls ugha cuk;s tkrs gSaA bl dyk dks yM+fd;k¡ viuh nknh ls lh[krh gSaA fMt+kbu T;kferh; rFkk fo’ks"k cukoV okys gksrs gSaA vf/kdka’k uewuksa dks nSfud thou esa iz;ksx gksus okyh oLrqvksa ls fy;k tkrk gSA Qqydkjh dks uewuksa ds izdkj] oLrqvksa ds jax] Vkadksa ds rjhdksa o mlesa d’khnkdkjh fd;s x;s LFkku ds vk/kkj ij ckaVk tkrk gSA i) pkSis o lqcsj oSokfgd Qqydkjh gS] tks fd 'kknh ds le; ekek }kjk o/kq dks nh tkrh gS
¼fp= 15-15½A ii) 'kkyq& blesa yky o xgjs yky [kn~nj dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA izfrfnu ?kj esa iz;ksx
gksus okyh bl 'kkWy dks 'kkyq uke ls tkuk tkrk gS iii) n’kZu }kj vkSj njoktk Qqydkjh /kkfeZd laLFkkuksa dks HksaV Lo:i nh tkrh gSA fMt+kbu dk dk;Z iSuy ij fd;k tkrk gSA bls ml LFkku ij Mkyk tkrk gS tgk¡ ls yksx nsoh nsorkvksa ds n’kZu djrs gSa ¼fp= 15-16½A iv) 'kh’ksnkj Qqydkjh& nf{k.k iwoZ iatkc esa yky o Hkwjs jax dh i`"BHkwfe okys diM+s ij 'kh’ks yxkdj d<kbZ dh tkrh gSA v) lkaph Qqydkjh& bl Qqydkjh esa iatkc dk xzkeh.k thou ns[kus dks feyrk gS] ftlesa uewus Vªsl fd;s tkrs gSa o d<kbZ djus ls igys dkyh L;kgh }kjk vkmVykbu dh tkrh gSA uewus xzkeh.k thou dh izfrfnu dh fØ;k,¡ rFkk ?kj esa iz;ksx gksus okys fofHkUu izdkj ds lkeku
ftUgsa fL=;k¡ izfrfnu iz;ksx djrh gSA nwljs 'kCnksa esa ge ;g dg ldrs gSa fd xzkeh.k thou jaxhu :i esa lkaph Qqydkjh esa fn[kkbZ nsrk gS ¼fp= 15-17½A
fp= fp= 1515-15 n’kZu}kjk vksj njoktk
fp= fp= 1515-16 lk¡ph Qqydkjh
vi) ojh nk ckx& ojh dk vFkZ gS og diM+s vkSj tsoj ftUgsa o/kq dks migkj Lo:i fn;k tkrk
gSA nknh }kjk d’khnkdkjh dh xbZ 'kknh ds le; iksrs dh nqYgu dks migkj Lo:i nsrh gsA yky jax ds /kjkry ij ihys flYd ds /kkxs ls NksVs NksVs Vkadksa }kjk d’khnkdkjh dh tkrh gSA
fp= fp= 1515-17 ojhnk ckx
vii) ckou ckx& tSlk uke ls irk py jgk gS oSls gh blesa fofHkUu 52 izdkj ds T;kferh;
uewus cuk;s tkrs gSaA /kjkry dks NksVs cjkcj Hkkxksa esa ckaVk tkrk gS o ckgjh js[kk eghu T;kferh; ckWMZj }kjk cukbZ tkrh gSA izR;sd pkSdksj esa uewus o pednkj jaxksa }kjk d’khnkdkjh dh tkrh gSA ckWMZj o iYyq esa vyx fMt+kbu gksrs gSaA uewus ds vk/kkj ij ckx dk uke gksrk gS tSls% • • • • • • • •
djsyk ckx fephZ ckx ¼fp= 15-19½ pUnzek ckx ¼fp= 15-20½ ddM+h ckx /kfu;k ckx ckou ckx eksj ckx ¼fp= 15-21½ rksrk ckx
fp= fp= 1515-18 ojhnk ckx
fp= fp= 1515-19 pUnzek ckx
fp= fp= 1515-20 eksj ckx
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 5. 6.
Qqydkjh esa fdl izdkj ds fMt+kbu cuk;s tkrs gSa\ [kkyh LFkku Hkjsa% Qqydkjh dks --------------ds iz;ksx] --------- ds jax] Vkadksa dh izdkj o mlesa d’khnkdkjh fd, x, Hkkx ds vk/kkj ij ---------- x;k gSA
1515-5 vU; Qqydkjh (Other Phulkaris) flU/kh Qqydkjh dks 'kh’ksnkj Qqydkjh ¼’kh’ks dk dk;Z½ ds uke ls tkuk tkrk gSA ;g iatkc vkSj dPN d<+kbZ dk feyk tqyk :i gSA Vkadksa dks ^flU/kh rjksik^ ds uke ls tkuk tkrk gSA NksVs 'kh’ks dks cVu gksy Vkads }kjk diM+s ij yxk;k tkrk gSA d’khnkdkjh dk;Z flYd vkSj lSfVu }kjk fd;k tkrk gSA dPN dkfB;koM+ dk 'kh’ks dk dk;Z flYd vkSj lkfVu ij fd;k tkrk gS] ftlls LdVZ cukbZ tkrh gS ¼fp= 15-22] 15-23½A dPN dh d’khnkdkjh esa gkFkh] eksj vkSj rksrk vkfn dk iz;ksx Qwyksa ds ckWMZj ds lkFk fd;k tkrk gSA eq[; :i ls d’khnkdkjh psu fLVp rFkk gSfjax cksu }kjk dh tkrh gSA
fp= fp= 1515-22 xqtjkr dk 'kh’ks dk dk;Z
1515-6 nRr dk;Z (Assignments) 1515-6-1 d{kk dk;Z (Class Assignments)
fp= fp= 1515-23 lkSjk"Vª dk eghu dk;Z
i) Qqydkjh vkSj ckx esa iz;ksx fd;s tkus okys fofHkUu uewus cuk,saA ¼d{kk esa cuk, x,
fMt+kbu dks iw.kZ :i ls o.kZu djsaA½ ii) Qqydkjh vkSj ckx esa iz;ksx fd, x;s fdlh Hkh fMt+kbu dh jsfIydk cuk,as rFkk d{kk esa le>kb;sA
1515-6-2 x`g dk;Z (Home Assignments) i)
Qqydkjh dk;Z ds fiDpj@QksVks ,df=r djsaA ftUgsa vki eSXt+hu] nqdku] usV ls ,df=r dj ldrs gSa bUgsa vyx rjhds ls izLrqr djsa ftUgsa d{kk esa i<+ pqds gSaA lQkbZ ls fpidk, vkSj izR;sd QksVks rFkk fiDpj ds uhps uke fy[ksaA
1515-7 lkjka’k (Summing Up) Qqydkjh 'kCn dk vFkZ gS Qwyksa dk dk;ZA ckx esa iatkc dh ikjEifjd d’khnkdkjh 'kkWy gSA Qqydkjh esa Qwyksa okys fMt+kbu T;kferh; :i esa cuk;s tkrs gSaA izkphu Qqydkjh izfl) u`R; ukfVdk ghj jka>k esa fn[kkbZ xbZ gSA Qqydkjh dk izkphure izek.k izkIr gqvk gS og 15oha 'krkCnh esas xq:ukud dh cgu }kjk cuk, x;s :eky esa izkphu d’khnkdkjh ns[kus dks feyrh gSA Qqydkjh vkSj ckx d’khnkdkjh dkslZ [kknh ij fcuk cVs eqyk;e js’ke }kjk dh tkrh gS ftls iV dgrs gSaA fookg vkfn mRloksa ij iz;ksx gksus okyh eq[; Qqydkjh ckx uke ls tkuh tkrh gSaA bles iwjs /kjkry ij d’khnkdkjh dh tkrh gSA fMt+kbu T;kferh; rFkk fo’ks"k cukoV ds gksrs gSaA uewus vkl ikl ds okrkoj.k ls izsfjr gksrs gSaA fofHkUu izdkj dh Qqydkjh ij vyx vkdkj ds uewus /kjkry dk jax] vkSj Vkadksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA
1515-8 Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj (Possible Answers to Selfcheck Questions) 1. 2.
3.
4. 5.
6.
iV eqyk;e fcuk cVk gqvk js’ke dk /kkxk gksrk gS ftldk iz;ksx d’khnkdkjh esa fd;k tkrk gSA lkekU;r% Qqydkjh esa nks izdkj dh fLVp iz;ksx dh tkrh gSa] yk¡x ,.M 'kkVZ vkSj MkfuZax fLVpA [kkyh LFkku Hkjsa% Qqydkjh vkSj ckx d’khnkdkjh ?kj ij drs] cqus] o jaxs dkslZ [kknh ij dh tkrh gS D;ksafd ;g et+cwr] vf/kd le; rd pyus okyk gksrk gS vkSj bl ij d<+kbZ vklkuh ls dh tkrh gS D;ksafd bles /kkxksa dks fxuk tk ldrk gSA Qqydkjh dh lqUnjrk mldh dkseyrk] larqfyr jpuk je.kh;rk vkSj jaxksa dh laxfr gS tks bl dyk dks okLrfodrk iznku djrh gSA Qqydkjh esa fMt+kbu dHkh dHkh Vªsl fd, tkrs gSa ijUrq eq[; :i ls rkus o ckus ds /kkxs fxudj cukbZ tkrh gSA [kkyh LFkku Hkjsa% Qqydkjh dks uewuksa ds iz;ksx] oLrqvksa ds jax] Vkadksa ds izdkj o mlesa d’khnkdkjh fd, x, Hkkx ds vk/kkj ij ckaVk x;k gSA
1515-9 vH;klkFkZ iz’u (Terminal Questions) Qqydkjh vkSj ckx D;k gS\ Qqydkjh esa [kn~nj dk iz;ksx D;ksa fd;k tkrk gS\ vkSj vktdy fdl izdkj dk diM+k iz;ksx gksrk gS\ 3. Qqydkjh esa fdl izdkj ds fLVp iz;ksx fd;s tkrs gSa\ 4. Qqydkjh vkSj ckx dh d’khnkdkjh esa D;k vUrj gS\ 5. ckx d’khnkdkjh dh D;k fo’ks"krk gS\ 6. iV ls vki D;k le>rs gSa\ 7. Qqydkjh ds uke ls tkuus okyh izkphu oLrq D;k gS\ 8. flU/kh Qqydkjh ds eq[; rRo D;k gS\ 9. ojhnk ckx Qqydkjh dh D;k fo’ks"krk gS\ 10. Qqydkjh vkSj ckx ds eq[; rRo D;k gSA 1. 2.
1515-10 lanHkZ
,oa
v/;;u
;ksX;
iqLrdsa
(Suggested Further
Reading and References) 1. Barnes, R., and Oth. 2002. Trade, Temple and Court Indian Textiles, Indian Book House Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai. 2. Bhatnagar, P. 2005. Decorative Design History in Indian Textiles and Costumes. Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh. 3. Bhatnagar, P. 2003. Traditional Indian Costumes and textiles. Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh 4. Hitkari, S.S. 1980. Phulkari: The Folk Art of Punjab. Phulkari Publications. 5. Naik, S.D. 1996. Traditional Embroideries of India. A.P.H Publishing Corporation, New Delhi.
1515-11 'kCnkoyh 1. 2.
rkuk ckuk
(Glossary) lekukUrj /kkxksa dk tksMs+ ds che ij yisV dj ywe ij yxk;k tkrk gS /kkxksa ds tksM+s dks lh/kh rjQ ls rkus esa xwaFkdj vusd izdkj ls cqukbZ dh tkrh gSA