ikB&7 Hkkjr ds fpf=r oL= (PAINTED TEXTILES OF INDIA) lajpuk 7-0
mÌs’;
7-1 7-2
izLrkouk tSu iV
7-3 7-4
QM+ dyedkjh
7-5
fiN fiNobZ
7-6
nRr dk;Z
7-7 7-8
lkjka’k Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj
7-9
vH;klkFkZ iz’u
7-6-1 d{kk dk;Z 7-6-2 x`g dk;Z
7-10 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 7-11 'kCnkoyh
7 Hkkjr ds fpf=r oL= (PAINTED TEXTILES OF INDIA) fiNyh bdkbZ esa vkius Nis oL=ksa ds fo"k; esa tkudkjh izkIr dh] vc ge Hkkjr ds isaVsM oL= ds fo"k; esa i<+asxsA izkphu le; ls Hkkjr esa /kkfeZd vk;kstuksa o ltkus ds fy, diM+ksa rkM+ ds iRr¨a peM+s vkSj ydM+h ij isafVax dh tkrh gSA buesa ls dqN /kkfeZd mÌs’;ksa tSls efUnjksa yVdkus ds fy, cuk, tkrs Fks tSls elwyhiêue dh fiNobZ dh dyedkjh ftldk cgqr cM+s Lrj ij fu;kZr fd;k tkrk Fkk vkSj dqN dgkfu;k¡ lqu kus ds fy, cuk, tkrs Fks tSls jktLFkku dh yky LØkWy esa cuk ^ikcwth dk QM+^ (Pabuji ka Phad) A bl bdkbZ ds igys v/;k; es Hkkjr ds fofHkUu izdkj ds iasVsM oL=ksa ds fo"k; esa tkusaxsA nwljs o rhljs v/;k; esa eq[; :i ls nks izdkj ds iasVsM oL=ksa tSls dyedkjh vkSj fiNobZ ds fo"k; esa v/;;u djsaxsA
7-0
mÌs’; (Objectives)
bl v/;k; dks i<+us ds i’pkr~ vki% • Hkkjr esa fofHkUu egRoiw.kZ ikjEifjd fpf=r oL=ksa ds fo"k; esa tkudkjh izkIr dj ldsaxsA • fofHkUu izdkj ds fpf=r oL= tSls tSu iV] QM+] dyedkjh vkSj fiNobZ dk ifjp; izkIr djsaxsA
7-1
izLrkouk (Introduction)
Hkkjrh; lH;rk esa isafVax dk egRoiw.kZ LFkku gSA bl izdkj dh dyk] [kq’kh] lqUnjrk] /keZ vkSj dHkh dHkh laf{kIr mÌs’; ds fy, Hkh iz;ksx dh tkrh gSA izkphu le; esa dykdkj viuh dyk dks n’kkZus ds fy, xqQkvksa] rkM+ ifRr;ksa] nhokjksa] gkFkh nk¡r ydM+h peM+k vkSj dHkh dHkh diM+s vkfn dk iz;ksx djrs Fks ¼fp= 7-1½A
xqQk dh isafVax dh xbZ
ydM+h ij dh xbZ ydM+h ij dh xbZ isafVax isafVax fp= 77-- 2 fofHkUu lrgksa ij dh xbZ isafVax
lcls iqjkus diM+s ij dh tkus okyh LØky isafVax gSa tSu iV vkSj jktLFkku dh QM iasfVax iV fp= dh ijEijk dks n’kkZrs gSa ¼fp= 7-2½A iV fp= diM+ksa ij dh xbZ isafVax gSA ;g isafVaXl yEcs LØky ds :i esa gksrs Fks ftuesa ikSjkf.kd dFkkvksa dk o.kZu gksrk FkkA bl izdkj ds yEcs iV fp=ksa dks yisVdj o cka/kdj j[kk tkrk Fkk vkSj dsoy eq[; mRloksa ij gh [kksyk tkrk FkkA
jktLFkku dh QM isafVax
tSu iV fp= 77- 2
vktdy diM+s ij dh xbZ fp=dkjh dk lqUnj mnkgj.k nf{k.k Hkkjr dh dyedkjh ¼fp= 7-3a ½ vkSj oYyHkkpk;Z lEiznk; ds efUnj esa Vakxus ds fy, cukbZ xbZ fiNobZ ¼fp= 7-3b½ gSA f cgkj esa fefFkyk dh e/kqcuh tks ?kjksa fp= 77- 4 e/kqcuh isafVax dh fp= 7fp= 77- 3 a dyedkjh 7-3 b fiNobZ nhokjksa dks ltkus ds fy, cukbZ tkrh Fkh] mldk iz;ksx oL=ksa dks lqUnj cukus ds fy, fd;k tkus yxk gSA fofHkUu oL= tSls lkM+h] nqiêk] nhokjksa ij yVdkus okys fp= ns[ks tk ldrs gSa ¼fp= 7-4½A
7-2
tSu iV (Jain Patas)
Hkkjr esa diM+s ij dh tkus okyh lcls iqjkuh fp=dkjh esa ls ,d tSu iV fp= gSaA blesas pednkj jaxksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk FkkA ysfdu budk LVkby okLrfodrk ls iwjk gksrk FkkA ;g vf/kd dykRed vkSj LVkbykbTM gksrh FkhA
fp= 77- 4 a rkaf=d
fp= 77- 4 b vrkaf=d
tSu iV fp=ksa dks nks Hkkxksa esa foHkkftr fd;k tk ldrk gS rkfU=d ¼fp= 7-4a½ vkSj vrkfU=d ¼fp= 7-4b½A rkfU=d fp=dkjh esa eU=ksa dks fpf=r fd;k tkrk gS] ftUgsa ;U= dgk tkrk gS] rkaf=d ys[kksa esa fd;s x;s o.kZu ds vuqlkj fp= cuk, tkrs gSa] ns[ks tkrs gSa o vrkfU=d fp=dkjh iV fp= dh rjg gksrh gSS blds fp= rkfU=d fof/k ls lEcfU/kr ugha gksrh gSS buesa ls ,d gSa rhFkZ iV fp= ftuesa rhFkZ LFkkuksa ds fp= vkSj tSu /keZ dh czãkaM dh ifjdYiuk ls lEcfU/kr vkjs[k gksrs gSaA
7-3
QM+ (Phads)
jktLFkku ds vusdksa ikjEifjd yksd dyk,a gaSA bl fojklr dk ,d Hkkx QM+ isafVax gSa ¼ fp= 7-5a½A ;g fp=dkjh yEcs diM+ksa ij gksrh gS vkSj blesa jktLFkku ds fdlh izfl) O;fDr dh cgknqjh dk fp=.k fd;k tkrk gSA budk iz;ksx dgkuh lqukus okyh fdlh izfl) O;fDr ls lEcfU/kr ?kVukvksa ;k dgkfu;ksa dks n’kkZus ds fy, djrs gSaA bldks nks ckal dh MaafM;ksa ds e/; yVdk;k tkrk gS vkSj fo[;kr O;fDr dh dFkkvksa dks [;ky LVkby esa lqukrs gSaA bl gSafxax ds mlh Hkkx dks izdkf’kr fd;k tkrk gS ftldk oks o.kZu dj jgs gksrs gSaA QM+ dh dgkfu;k¡ Hkksi k tkfr ds y¨xksa }kjk lqukbZ tkrh gS fp= ¼7-4b½ tks fd dgkfu;ksa dks xkdj lqukus esa fuiq.k gksrs gSaA Hkksik dgkuh Qkxqu ds eghus esa ugha lqukrs gSa vkSj tc ;s yksx ,d ckj dgkuh 'kq: dj nsrs gSa rks mldks v/kwj k ugha NksM+rs D;ksafd ;g dgkuh lqukuk ifo= ekurs gaSA ;g ekuk tkrk gS fd Hkksik dh dgkuh lquus ls chekjh vkSj nqHkkZX; ls cpk;k tk ldrk gSA
fp= 77- 5 a QM
fp= 77- 5 b QM dh dgkuh lqukrk ,d Hkksik
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions)
1. QM dh dgkfu;k¡ dkSu lqukrk gS\ 2. [kkyh LFkku i) tSu iV fp= izkphu le; ls Hkkjrh; -------------------- tks diM+s ij dh tkrh gSA buesa -------------- vkSj ------
--------- jaxksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk Fkk tks fd ---------------- vkSj ---------------- gksrs gaSA
7-4
dyedkjh (Kalamkari)
dyedkjh diM+s ij dye vFkok iSu ls fp=.k djus dh izkphu dyk gSA blesa eq[; :i ls lwrh diM+s ij CykWd fizafVax o gkFk }kjk izkÑfrd jaxksa dk iz;ksx djds uewus cuk;s tkrs gSaA bl izdkj dk diM+k vc Hkkjr ds vusd jkT;ksa es vf/kd :i esa cuus yxk gSA nf{k.k Hkkjr esa cuus okys diM+s ds fy, gh dyedkjh dk iz;ksx diM+s ij fd;k tkrk gS D;ksafd iqjkuh ikjEifjd dye dh i)fr dk iz;ksx ;gha vkjEHk gqvk FkkA vxj diM+s ij CykWd fizaV Hkh fd;k tkrk gS rc Hkh mldh eghu vkmV ykbu d¨ cz’k }kjk Hkjk tkrk gSA eqxyksa us dksje.My vkSj xksydq.Mk izkUr esa bl dk;Z dks izksRlkfgr fd;k o bu dkjhxjksa dks Dokyedkj dgrs Fks tks ckn esa ^dyedkjh^ 'kCn fudykA
dy ed kjh 300 0 o"kZ fp= 7fp= 77- 6 a elwyhiVue dh dyedkjh 7- 6 b Jh dykgLrh dh dyedkjh iqjk uh dyk gS ftldk tUe vkU/kz izns’k ds rVh; xk¡o elwyhiêue esa gqvk tks fd vc eNyhiêue ds uke ls tkuk tkrk gS ¼ fp= 7-6 a½ vc ;g dyk efUnjksa ds uxj Jh dykgLrh esa dsfUnzr gks xbZ gS tks fd fr:ifr ds fudV gS ¼ fp= 7-6 b½A iqjkus le; esa dyedkjh dk dk;Z gkFk ls fpf=r fd;k tkrk FkkA fczfV’k 'kklu ds le; dyedkjh dyk ;wjksi esa cgqr vf/kd izfl) gqbZA bldh ek¡¡x vf/kd gksus ds dkj.k dkjhxj rsth ls dke djus ds fy, BIiksa dk iz;ksx djus yxs D;ksafd dye ls cukus dh rqyuk esa BIiksa ls vkmV ykbu tYnh cukbZ tk ldrh gSA cqudj] dykdkj] fp=dkj] NikbZ djus okys uDdk’k] d’khnkdkj vkfn ds fy, efUnj izsj.kk ds lzksr jgs gSaA dyedkjh esa jkek;.k vkSj egkHkkjr ds uSfrd ewY;ksa ds dFkk n`’; dks n’kkZ;k tkrk gSA dyedkjh dk eq[; vkd"kZ.k mlds vn~Hkqr uewus o pednkj jax gSA bl dyk esa xgjk yky] dkyk vkSj bf.Mxks] gjk] ihyk] eVeSyk xqykch] Hkwjk o /kqfey lQsn jaxksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 3. dyedkjh fdrus lky iqjkuh dyk gS\ 4. [kkyh LFkku Hkjsa
dsoy ---------- Hkkjr esa cuus okys diM+s ds fy, gh dyedkjh 'kCn dk iz;ksx diM+s ij fd;k tkrk gS D;ksafd iqjkuh ikjEifjd ----------- dh i)fr dk iz;ksx ogha ij gksrk gSA
7-5
fiNobZ fiNobZ (Pichhavai)
Hkkjr esa diM+s ij cuus okyh fiXesaV isafVax ls fiNobZ oYyHkkpk;Z lEiznk; ¼15oha 'krkCnh ds var esa LFkkfir Ñ".k iaFk½ ds efUnj esa yVdkus okyh diM+s ij dh xbZ fp=dkjh dk ,d lqUnj mnkgj.k izLrqr djrh gSA pednkj jaxksa }kjk dh tkus okys ;g dyk efUnj ds vUnj nhokj dks lqUnj cukus ds fy, gS] tgk¡ Hkxoku Ñ".k fuokl djrs gSaA fp=dkjh esa fo"k; o fMt+kbu fo’ks"k ioZ o ekSle dks /;ku j[krs gq, cuk;s tkrs gaSA eq[; R;ksgkjksa ij eap ;k nsoh&nsorkvksa ds ihNs yxk, tkus okys diM+s dks fiNobZ dgrs gSaA ;g fp=dkjh izkÑfrd jaxksa ls dh tkrh gS tks viuh ped lkyksa rd ugha NksM+rh gSaA blesa pednkj jaxksa ds lkFk Ñ".k ds cpiu dh ?kVukvksa dk fp=.k ;k bl iaFk ds bfrgkl ls lEcfU/kr dks euksjatu rF; gksrk gSa tks vkt Hkh vkdf"kZr djrk gSA ;s ltkoVh fp=ksa ds :i esa Hkh iz;ksx dh tkrh gSA vc bl lth gqbZ fp=dkjh dk iz;ksx ?kjksa o gksVyksa dh nhokjksa ij yxs dyS.Mjksa vkfn ij ns[kk tk ldrk gS o vktdy ;g lqUnj fp=dkjh lkM+h ltkoVh oLrqvksa o LdVZ ij Hkh feyrs gSaA
oYyHkkpk;Z lEiznk;
pednkj jax
ukFk}kjk
fp= 77- 7 fiNobZ
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 5. Hkkjr ds rhu izdkj ds fpf=r oL=ksa ds uke fyf[k,A 6. [kkyh LFkku Hkfj,A
eq[; R;ksgkjksa ij eap ds ihNs ---------------- ds fy, iz;ksx gksrk gSA ml diM+s dks ---------- dgrs gSaA
7-6 nRr dk;Z (Assignments) 7-6-1 d{kk dk;Z
i) ii)
fdlh Hkh ,d fpf=r oL= dh jsfIydk cukb, ftls vkius i<+k gksA fofHkUu fpf=r oL=ksa ds uewus cukb, o uke fyf[k,A
7-6-2 x`g dk;Z i)
7-7
Hkkjr ds fofHkUu izdkj ds fpf=r oL=ksa ds QksVks vkSj fp= ,df=r djsaA izR;sd dks fpidkb;s o uke fyf[k;sA
lkjka’k (Summing Up)
bl v/;k; esa pkj izdkj ds fpf=r oL=ksa dk o.kZu fd;k x;k gS tSls tSu iV fp=] QM+] dyedkjh vkSj fiNobZA • bu lcesa tSu iV fp= lcls iqjkuk gSA • dqN eq[; lqUnj Hkkjrh; fp=dkjh tks diM+ksa ij gksrh gS] QM vkSj dyedkjh gSA • fiNobZ vkSj QM jktLFkku dh o dyedkjh vkU/kzizns’k dh dyk gSA
7-8
Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj (Possible Answers to Selfcheck Questions) 1. QM+ dh dgkfu;k¡ Hkksik tkfr ds yksx lqukrs gSaA 2. [kkyh LFkku Hkfj;s%
3. 4.
5. 6.
tSu iV fp= izkphu le; ls Hkkjr esa dh tkus fp=dkjh esa ls ,d gS diM+s ij dh tkrh gSA blesas pednkj jaxksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk Fkk ysfdu LVkby okLrfodrk ls iwjs gksrk gS tks fd LVkbykbTM vkSj dykRed gksrh gSA dyedkjh 3000 o"kZ iqjkuh dyk gSA ftlesa diM+s ij dye vFkok isu ls fp=.k fd;k tkrk gSA [kkyh LFkku Hkjsa% dsoy nf{k.k Hkkjr esa cuus okys diM+s ds fy, dyedkjh 'kCn dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS D;ksafd iqjkuh ikjEifjd dye dh i)fr dk iz;ksx ogha ij gksrk gSA dyedkjh] fiNobZ vkSj QM Hkkjr ds fpf=r oL= gSaA eq[; R;ksgkjksa ij eap ds ihNs yVdkus ds fy, iz;ksx gksrk gSA ml diM+s dks fiNobZ dgrs gSaA
7-9 vH;klkFkZ iz’u (Terminal Questions) 1. dyedkjh fp=dyk fdl izdkj dh lrg ij dh tkrh Fkh\ 2. [kkyh LFkku Hkfj;s% i) QM+ -------------- dh yksddyk gSA ii) dyedkjh dh ewy mRifRr ------------------------ esa gqbZ gSA iii) fiNobZ fp=dkjh dk eq[; dsUnz jktLFkku ds ---------------------- esa gSA iv) ftl diM+s ij Hkxoku Ñ".k ds fp= cuk;s tkrs gSa] mls ------------------- dgrs gSaA 3. tSu iV fp= ds fl)karksa ij ys[ k dhft,A
7-10 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa (Suggested Further Reading and References) 1. Anonymous. 1984. Masterpieces of Indian Textiles: Hand Spun, Hand Woven, Traditional. D. B. Taraporevala Sons & Co. Pvt. Ltd. Mumbai. 2. Anonymous. 2005. Paramparik Karigar. Mumbai. 3. Barnes, R. and Oth. 2002. Trade Temple & Court. India Book House Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai. 4. Bhatnagar, P. 2005. Decorative Design History in Indian Textiles and Costumes. Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh. 5. Bhatnagar, P. 2003. Traditional Indian Costumes and textiles. Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh 6. Mathur, A. R. 2002. Woven Wonder: The Tradition of Indian Textiles. Rupa & Co., New Delhi. 7. Ramani, S. 2002. Sari: The Kalakshetra Tradition. Kalakshetra Foundation, Chennai. 8. Singh, M. 2000. Handcrafted Indian Textiles: Tradition and Beyond. Roli Books, New Delhi.
7-11 'kCnkoyh (Glossary) 1. 2. 3.
LVkbykbTM vkjs[k rVh;
okLrfod vkdkj dks cny nsuk fp= leqnz rV ij