201-L-8-h by mayank govil

ikB&8 dyedkjh (KALAMKARI) lajpuk 8-0

mÌs’;

8-1 8-2

izLrkouk ,frgkfld sfrgkfld i`"BHkwfe

8-3

dyedkjh ds ds izdkj ¼LVkby½ 8-3-1 Jh dykgLrh djus dh fof/k 8-3-2 elwyhiêue hiêue djus dh fof/k

8-4

dyedkjh dkjhxjksa }kjk iz;ksx fd;k tkus okyk dPpk eky

8-5

jax cukus dh fof/k

8-6

mRifRr izfØ;k 8-6-1 Jh dykgLrh 8-6-2 elwyhiê hiêue

8-7

dyedkjh esa vk/kqfud fMt+kbu

8-8

nRr dk;Z 8-8-1 d{kk dk;Z 8-8-2 x`g dk;Z

8-9

lkjka’k

8-10 Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj 8-11 vH;klkFkZ iz’u 8-12 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 8-13 'kCnkoyh

8 dyedkjh (KALAMKARI) fiNyh v/;k; esa vkius Hkkjr ds fpf=r ¼isaVsM½ oL=ksa ds fo"k; esa tkudkjh izkIr dh vc ge dyedkjh ds ckjs esa foLrkj ls v/;;u djsaxs tks fd vkU/kzizns’k dh isaVsM VsDLVkby dk egRoiw.kZ vkSj lqUnj :i gSaA

8-0

mÌs’; (Objectives) bl v/;k; dks i<+us ds ckn vki % • dyedkjh ds ,sfrgkfld i`"BHkwfe ds ckjs esa tkusaxsA • dyedkjh ds fofHkUu izdkj dks le>saxsA • vki dyedkjh esa iz;qDr gksus okys dPps eky] jax cukus dh fof/k vkSj dyedkjh dh mRiknu izfØ;k dh le> ldsaxsA

8-1

izLrkouk (Introduction)

dyedkjh vkU/kzizns’k esa gkFk }kjk isaV o fizaV fd;s x, oL=ksa ,d egRoiw.kZ :i gS ¼ fp= 8-1½A dyedkjh 'kCn dye rFkk dkjh feydj cuk gSA dye dk vFkZ gS ys[kuh ¼isu½ o dkjh dk vFkZ gS dk;ZA dyedkjh esa ikSjkf.kd n`’;] Qwyksa okys uewus] Vªh vkWQ ykbQ] fpfM;k¡] tkuoj vkfn ds fp= izkÑfrd jaxksa ls cuk, tkrs FksA dkjhxjksa dks bldh izsj.kk vkU/kzizns’k ds efUnjksa dh LFkkiR; dyk] dh izkÑfrd lqUnjrk vkSj igkM+ gSA

dk ls

;gk¡ Vªh vkWQ ykbQ

Jh dykgLrh LVkby fp= 88- 1 dyedkjh dyedkjh dh vkmVykbu 2

vkU/kzizns’k dqfpiqMh u`R;] e/kqj laxhr vkSj fofHkUu izdkj dh gLr f’kYi dk dsUnz gS ftuesa dyedkjh ¼ozrikuh½ lcls egRoiw.kZ dyk gSA ;g dyk 3000 o"kZ iqjkuh gS bldk mn~Hko gSnjkckn ls 200 fd0eh0 nwj iwcZ esa elwyhiêue uked xk¡o esa gqvk FkkA¼ fp= 8-3½ rFkk ;g dyk psUubZ ds mRrj esa 80 ehy nwj fr:ifr ds ikl fLFkr efUnjksa ds 'kgj Jh dykgLrh esa QSyh vkSj fodflr gqbZA

fp= 88- 3 vkU/kzizns’k dk uD’kk fp= dyedkjh ds dsUnz & elwyhiêue vkSj Jh dykgLrh n’kkZrk gqvk

8-2

,sfrgkfld i`"BHkwfe (Historical Background)

bl dyk dk izkphure oL= 3000 bZ0 iwoZ eksgutksnM+ks dh [kqnkbZ esa izkIr gqvkA tks fd dsjks ds ikl fLFkr vy QqLrkr (Al Fustat) ds edcjksa dh [kqnkbZ esa eSMj jax esa jaxs diM+kas ds dqN uewus ftlesa Hkkjrh; ikjEifjd uewus cus feys gSaA blls irk pyrk gS fd ;g dyk dsoy izkphu gh ugha gS cfYd ;g iwjh rjg fodflr Fkh vkSj bldk vk;kr Hkh fd;k tkrk FkkA izkphu le; esa Hkkjrh; oL=ksa dh yksdfiz;rk muds fo’ks"k xq.kksa ds dkj.k FkhA ml le; Hkh Hkkjrh; dkjhxj izÑfr esa izkIr jaxksa dks diM+s ij ,d fo’ks"k lhek rd iDdk djus dh rduhd tkurs FksA ekSle o izÑfr dh mnkjrk ds dkj.k fofHkUu izdkj ds isM+&ikS/ks Hkkjrh; dkjhxjksa ds fy;s miyC/k FksA ftlds dkj.k fofHkUu lfCt;ksa] tkuojksa vkSj vU; izkÑfrd [kfut yo.kksa ls jax curs FksA

vy QqLrkr ls 15oha 'krkCnh esa izkIr CykWd fizaV

fp= 88-2

vy QqLrkr ls 16oha 'krkCnh esa izkIr CykWd fizaV

izkphu fgUnw ys[kksa esa oSfnd ;qx esa yksxksa }kjk igus tkus okys diM+ksa ds jax vkSj uewus irk yxrk gS fd ml le; ds dykdkj ikS/kksa dh gtkjksa tkfr;ksa ds ckjs esa tkurs Fks o mudk iz;ksx jax vkfn cukus esa djrs FksA NBh 'krkCnh esa fyf[kr fgUnq ys[k fczglafgrk ds ys[kd ojkgfefgj us u dsoy jaxkssa dk o.kZu fd;k cfYd jaxksa dks diM+s ij iDdk djus ds fy, eksMsZafVax dh fof/k Hkh crkbZA eksMZsfUVax 'kCn ysfVu Hkk"kk ds eksMZsj ¼dkVuk½ ls fy;k x;k gSA bl fof/k esa fQVdjh fVu ;k Økse dks diM+s ij yxk;k tkrk gS tks js’kksa dks dkVrk gS ftlls js’kksa esa jax esa vklkuh ls pyk tkrk gSA bl fof/k }kjk dPps jax Hkh diM+s ij iDds gks tkrs gSa tks izdk’k o ?kqyus esa gYds ugha iM+rsA dyedkjh esa jkek;k.k vkSj egkHkkjr ls yh xbZ egku ewY;ksa okys ikSjkf.kd n`’;ksa dks n’kkZ;k tkrk FkkA iUnzgoha 'krkCnh bl dyk dk lqugjk le; FkkA ml le; fot;uxj ds jktkvksa us dyedkjh dh dyk dks QSyk;kA lksygoha 'krkCnh ds e/; esa bl dyk dk fodkl dqN le; ds fy, #d x;kA l=goha 'krkCnh ls fofHkUu izdkj dh iÆ’k;u uewus Vªh vkWQ ykbQ] xqykc] cqycqy] vukj] Qy vkfn Hkh cuk;s tkus yxssA tc ;g diM+s iÆ’k;k ds fy, cuk, tkrs Fks rc ogk¡ dh ekax ds vuqlkj izkFkZuk pVkbZ] elun] rfd;s ds doj] pVkbZ vkfn cgqr vf/kd la[;k esa cuus yxs ftlesa ekuo fp=.k ugha gksrk FkkA budh ekax dks iwjk djus ds fy, CykWd fizaVj ;g dk;Z djus yxs ftls yksxksa us cgqr vf/kd ilan fd;kA l=goha 'krkCnh esa ;wjksi ds yksxksa us dyedkjh ds jaxksa o Qwyksa ds uewu¨a dks cgqr vf/kd ilan fd;kA Mªsl eSVhfj;y] pknjsa o ijnksa dh vf/kd ekax Fkh ijUrq os yksx dyedkjh ds LFkku ij bl dk;Z dks dSfydks ;k fpUV~l dgrs FksA l=goha 'krkCnh ds var esa bZLV bf.M;k dEiuh us bl izdkj ds diM+s cukus dk O;kikj izkjEHk fd;k vkSj ;wjksfi;u cktkj ds fy, Hkkjrh; dkjhxjksa us] Lis’ky ekax ij vusd izdkj ds mRikn cuok,A dksjeUMy rV ds dSfydks fizaV brus vf/kd izfl) gq, fd iSfjl vkSj yUnu ls d<+kbZ fd;s gq, diM+ksa ds lSEiy Hkkjr Hksts x, ftudks fizaV djds fcYdqy oSlk gh cuk;k x;kA tks dyedkjh fMt+kbu dh ?kjksa dks ltkus esa iz;ksx fd;s tkrs Fks cgqr vf/kd izfl) gq, bUgsa fpUV~l dgk tkrk FkkA vusd ;qjksfi;u fMt+kbu tSls V~;wMj jkst ¼xqykc½ dks ml le; dh ikjEifjd dyedkjh esa vf/kd egRo feykA bZjku o iÆ’k;k ds fMt+kbuksa dks ml le; ds eqlyeku 'kkldksa us cgqr vf/kd ilan fd;k os bu fMt+kbuksa ls izHkkfor FksA

lkbizl Vªh

V~;wMj jkst+

cknke

if’kZ;u uewus ¼fp= 8-4½ tSls lkbizl o`{k] esgjkc] cknke] Vªh vkWQ ykbQ vkfn uewus dyedkjh ds izsj.kk Jksr gaSA fofHkUu ijEijk dks viuk dj dyedkjh dkjhxjksa us mUgas Hkkjrh; :i nsdj ikjEifjd VsDLVkby dks ,d u;k :i fn;kA

8-2-1 vU; dsUnz (Other Centers) rfeyukMw ds vjok izkUr esa ftl izdkj dk dk;Z fd;k tkrk gS og vkU/kzizns’k dh dyedkjh ds leku gSA bl izdkj ds fMt+kbu ds diM+s cukus ds vU; dsUnz gSaA ikykdksyw] elwyhiêue] fot;okM+k] xqaVwj] usYykSj] JhdykgLrh] iksusjh] vjuh vkSj ik¡fMpsjh] vkSj ratkSjA

Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 1. dyedkjh dk mn~Hko dgk¡ ij gqvk\ 2. [kkyh LFkku Hkfj;s%

dyedkjh 'kCn ---------------- rFkk ---------------------------- ls feydj cuk gSA dye dk vFkZ gS -------------------- vkSj ---------------- dk vFkZ gS dk;ZA dyedkjh isafVax esa ----------------------- jaxksa ls curh gS ftlesa -----------n`’;ksa] --------------------------] uewus] --------------------------- vkWQ ykbQ --------------------- vkSj tkuoj vkfn dk cuk, tkrs gSaA

8-3

dyedkjh ds izdkj (The Styles of Kalamkari)

8-3-1 Jh dykgLrh djus dh fof/k (Sri Kalahasti Style) JhdykgLrh dk fodkl dc vkSj dgk¡ gqvk] blds fo"k; esa cgqr de tkudkjh gSA ,slk fo’okl fd;k tkrk gS fd elwyhiêue ds dyedkjh dkjhxj tks 'krkfCn;ksa ls bl dyk esa fuiq.k Fks] mUgksaus 'kk;n bl dyk dks Jh dykgLrh ds dykdkjksa dks fl[kk;kA ftUgksaus ekax ds vuqlkj bldk fodkl fd;k vkSj efUnj diM+s ¼VsEiy DykWFk½ cukus esa egkjFk gkfly dh ¼fp= 8-5½A Jh dykgLrh ds efUnj diM+s dyedkjh ds rjhds ls gh cuk, tkrs gaSA blesa flQZ dye dh lgk;rk ls ikSjkf.kd fo"k;ksa ij gh fp= cukrs gSaA Jh dykgLrh efUnjksa dk 'kgj gS] blfy, ;gk¡ cus oL=ksa esa /keZ ls lEcfU/kr fp= gh cuk, tkrs gSaA

dyedkjh

fp= 88- 5

VsEiy DykWFk

bl dyk esa lHkh dk;Z dye }kjk gksrk gSA loZizFke dykdkj yky /kjkry ij dye }kjk vkÑfr dh vkmVykbu cukrk gSA uewus dh vkmVykbu dkyh gksrh gS o dsoy izkÑfrd jaxksa dk iz;ksx gksrk gS bl izdkj dh dyk dks ozFkikuh ds uke ls Hkh tkuk tkrk gSA

8-3-2 elwyhiêue hiêue djus dh fof/k (Masulipatnam Style) dyedkjh dk tUe LFkku elwyhiêue ¼vc eNyhiVue½ gS tks fd izkphu leqnzh ekxksaZ esa ls izfl) ,d cUnjxkg FkkA egRoiw.kZ gksus ds dkj.k ;gk¡ ls nwljs ns’kksa ds lkFk O;kikj Hkh cgqr gksrk FkkA blfy, elwyhiêue ds fizaVsM diM+s xzhd esa bZlk iwoZ dh cgqr izfl) Fks] blhfy, blh dyk ij fons’kksa Hkh izHkko iM+kA QS’ku ds cnyus o ekax ds c<+us ij dyedkjh dk dk;Z djus okys ubZ rduhd ls ;g dk;Z djus yxs gSaA blesa dykdkj ckgjh js[kk ¼vkmVykbu½ ds fy, CykWDl dk iz;ksx djus yxs vkSj mlesa jax Hkjus dk dke dye ls gh djrs FksA D;ksafd dye dh vis{kk] CykWDl ls dk;Z tYnh gks tkrk gS ¼fp= 8-6½A dykdkj jlk;fud jaxksa dk Hkh iz;ksx djus yxs gSa D;ksafd blls mudk dk;Z vklku gks tkrk gSA jklk;fud jax vf/kd pednkj gksrs gaS rFkk [kjhnnkj dks vf/kd izHkkfor djrs gSaA dykdkj CykWDl }kjk fi?kyk gqvk ekse mu LFkkuksa ij yxk nsrs gSa tgk¡ ij og jax ugha pkgrs gSa vkSj fQj mls bfUMxks uhys esa MkbZ dj nsrs gSaA bl rjhds dks vn~nkdke~ dgrs gSaA

izkÑfrd js’ks

dye ds }kjk jax Hkjus ls igys CykWd fiazfVax ls vkmVykbu

dyedkjh CykWDl fp= 88- 6

Qwyksa okys uewus

8-4 dyedkjh dkjhxjksa ds }kjk iz;ksx fd;k tkus okyk dPpk eky (Raw Material used by Kalamkari Artists) xk<+k o dksjk diM+k ¼tks fd fcuk Cyhp fd;s /kkxs ls curk gS½ osftVcy MkbZ ,ye vkSj fQVdjh ekbjkscye ¼lw[ks½ ;k gjM+ ¼fgUnh esa½ HkSal dk nw/k pkjdksy tks beyh ds isM+ dh tyh gqbZ Vguh ls cukbZ tkrh gSA dye tks ck¡l ls curh gS rkacs ds cM+s crZu ikuh ¼pyrk gqvk½ ,d cM+h ydM+h dh est ftlesa VkV yxk gksrk gS ftl ij CykWd fiazfVax dh tk ldsA NksVh est ¼ekse yxkus ds fy, vkSj Mkbax ;k jax yxkus ds fy,½ fiazfVax CykWDl LVkfEid iSM ¼ftlesa CykWd fiazfVax ds fy, MkbZ ;k jax ldsa½ 14. ch cSDl 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.

8-5

Mky

jax cukus dh fof/k (Preparation of

Colors) dyedkjh uewuksa esa vusd jax iz;ksx fd;s tkrs gSa xgjk yky] dkyk] bf.Mxks] gjk] ihyk] eVeSyk xqykch Hkwjk lQsn gSaA eq[;r% fuEu jax la;kstu iz;qDr gksrk gSA • L=h fp=ksa esa ihyk • nsorkvksa ds fp=ksa esa bf.Mxks ;k uhyk • jk{kl ;k okeu ds fp=ksa esa yky o gjk vkSj • dqN vkÑfr;ksa esa fcuk jax fd;s NksM+ nsrs gSaA

fp= 88- 7

tSls o

fp= 88- 8

jax bl fof/k ls rS;kj fd;s tkrs gSa% i) dkyk jax% ¼fp= 8-7½ dyedkjh ds dykdkj eq[;r% dkys jax ds fy, yksgs dks iz;ksx djrs gaS] ds VqdM+ksa o xqM+ ds ?kksy dks feêh ds crZu esa Mkydj tkrk gSA bl jax dks rS;kj gksus esa chl fnu yx tkrs gSaA ijr czkmu gksus ls ;g irk pyrk gS fd ;g ?kksy rS;kj bl ?kksy dks ,d lky rd pykus ds fy, BaMs LFkku ij pkfg;sA dkyk dkfle jax uewuksa o vkÑfr dh ckgjh js[kk ds fy, o vf/kd txg dks Hkjus ds fy, Hkh dke vkrk gSA

fp= 88-9

yksgs cuk;k Åijh gSA j[kuk cukus

fp= 88-10

ihyk jax% ihyk jax ¼fp= 8-8½ /kkrq ds crZu esa ekbjkspye Qwy dks mcyrs ikuh esa Mkydj cuk;k tkrk gSA ?kksy dks fgykdj BaMk gksus ds fy, j[krs gSaA xgjs ihys jax ds fy, bl ?kksy dks ,d g¶rs ds fy, NksM+ nsrs gSA ihys jax ds ?kksy ls diM+s ij fp=.k djus ls igys blesa fQVdjh feykbZ tkrh gSA ihys jax esa jaxus ds ckn diM+s dks Nk;k esa lq[kkus ds fy, Mky nsrs gSa o vxys fnu unh ds [kqys ikuh esa vPNh izdkj /kksdj lwjt dh jks’kuh esa lq[kk ysrs gSaA ii)

iii) gjk jax % ihys jax ds ?kksy dks cgqr fnuksa ds fy, j[k nsus ij ;g gYds gjs jax esa cny tkrk gS ;k gjk jax izkIr djus ds fy, igys ekbjkscye ds ihys jax ls fizaV djs ysa blds ckn mlh LFkku ij bf.Mxks jax ls MkbZ dj ysa ¼fp= 8-9½A

Hkwjk jax% vke dh ydM+h dh iqjkuh Nky dks ekbjkscye dks ihys jax ds ?kksy esa feykrs gSa ftlls jax gksrk gS vkSj Hkwjs jax esa cny tkrk gS ¼fp= 8-10½A

iDdk

yky yky jax% ekbjkscye ihys jax fd, diM+s dks fQVdjh ds feJ.k esa Mkyus ls diM+s ij yky jax vk tkrk ¼fp= 8-11½A

iv)

vi) yky vkSj eS:u% u pkoyhdksM+h dh tM+ vkSj lq:yh iêk ¼eSMj ikS/kk½ dks mcky dj ;g jax rS;kj fd;k gSA fQVdjh yxs diM+s dks mcys ikuh esa Mky dj 40 feuV mckyrs gSa ¼fp= 8-12½ fQj diM+s dks fudkydj BaMs ikuh esa fudkydj lq[kkrs gaSA bldk xgjk jax izkIr djus ds fy, izfØ;k dks rc rd nqgjkrs gS tc rd fd okafNr jax u vk vii) xqykch jax% igys ls yky jax gq, diM+s ij ds jl dks yxkrs gSa blls og gYds xqykch jax esa cny tkrk ¼fp= 8-13½A yky vkÑfr vkSj Qwyksa okys eksfVQ ij xqykch fn[kkus ds fy, uhacw dk jl iz;ksx djrs gSaA

uhyk jax % uhyk jax ¼fp= 8-14½ bf.Mxks ikS/ks rS;kj fd;k tkrk gSA fcuk jax fd;s gq, diM+s ij bldk gksrk gSA loZizFke diM+s dks /kksdj lq[kk;k tkrk gSA bf.Mxks esa uhacw dks feykdj diM+s ij jax iDdk djus ds fy, iz;ksx tkrk gSA blds ckn ?kksy gjk ihyk jax dk fn[krk gS o mldh [kq’kcw feêh tSlh gksrh gSA vc bf.Mxks ?kksy iasfVax ds rS;kj gSA ;g tc gok ds lEidZ esa vkrk gS rks uhyk gks gSA uewus dh vkmVykbu pkjdksy isfUly ls dh tkrh gS tks beyh ds isM+ dh Vguh dks tykdj cukbZ tkrh gSA

fp= 88-11

Fig. 8.12

tkrk rd ls bl tk,A uhacw gS ykbu ls iz;ksx jaxkbZ fd;k

viii)

fp= 88- 13

ikS/ks dh vk;q vkSj e©le ds vuqlkj fn, x, jax dk ,d fiazafVax ls nwljh fizafVax ij cny tkrk gSA jax lcls vf/kd xgjs rc gksrs gSa tc mUgsa /kwi esa lq[kk;k tkrk gSA

fy, tkrk fd 'ksM

fp= 88- 14

cjlkr esa ekSle esa jax gYds rFkk lfnZ;ksa ds ekSle esa xgjs gksrs gSaA

Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 3. dyedkjh djus ds nks egRoiw.kZ rjhds crkb;s\ 4. [kkyh LFkku Hkfj;s%

dyedkjh esa jax iz;ksx gksrs gSa xgjk ----------------------] ----------------------------] ------------------------------] --------------------] ------------------------------------ eVeSyk --------------------- ----------------------------- vkSj ----------------- lQsnA

8-6

mRiknu mRiknu izfØ;k (Production Process)

8-6-1 Jh dykgLrh (Sri Kalahasti) Jh dykgLrh ds uewus ikSj kf.kd uewuksa ls izsfjr gSa tSlk fd mlds uke ls irk pyrk gSA blesa uewus ;k n`’; egkdkO;ksa tSls egkHkkjr vkSj jkek;.k ds gksrs gSa] ftlesa L=h pfj= dks fn[kkus ds fy, pednkj ihys rFkk nsorkvksa ds fy, uhys rFkk nSR;ksa ds fy, yky jax dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA dyedkjh ds dkjhxj uewus dh cká js[kk cukus ds fy, beyh dh Vgfu;ksa ls cuh pkjdksy fLVd dk iz;ksx djrs gaSA blds Åij dkys jax ls vkmV ykbu cukbZ tkrh gSA bl dkys jax dks dkfle dgrs gaS ¼fp= 8-15½A vxys pj.k esa diM+s ds /kjkry dks yky vkSj xqykch jax fn;k tkrk gS tc diM+s ij yky jax djuk gksrk gS rks dkjhxj ml txg ij fQVdjh dk ?kksy yxkrs gSaA diM+s dks Åuh dEcy ij QSy k;k tkrk gS vkSj dkjhxj diM+s ij dye dh lgk;rk ls ?kksy dks yxkrs gSa tks cz’k dh rjg gksrk gSA vc diM+s dks MkbZ fd;k tkrk gSA fQj ikuh ls /kksdj lwjt dh jks’kuh esa lq[kkrs gSa ¼fp= 8-16½A

8-6-2 elwyhiVue (Masulipatnam) elwyhiVue esa CykWDl ds }kjk izkÑfrd jaxksa dk djds fizafVax djrs gaS ¼fp= 8-17½A diM+s dks vPNh izdkj /kksdj HksM+ ds xkscj o ty ds feJ.k ls cus ?kksy esa 5 ds fy, fHkxks;k tkrk gSA diM+s esa ls vfrfjDr ikuh fudkydj iwjh jkr j[kk tkrk gSA vxys fnu bls rst /kkj ikuh ls /kks;k tkrk gS rFkk mls lery ueh okyh lrg] ij ikuh dh NhaVs Mkyrs gSa] ij fcNk;k tkrk gS tc rd og Cyhp u fd;k tk,A

iz;ksx ls feuV ds ftl fd fp= 88- 17

mlds i’pkr~ CykWd ds }kjk diM+s dkfle ds ?kksy dk iz;ksx djds uewus fiazV fd;s tkrs gaS] ftlesa fQVdjh feyk gksrk gSA diM+s dks 2&3 fnu lw[kus ds fy, j[k nsrs gSaA vfrfjDr fQVdjh fudkyus ds fy, pyrs ikuh esa /kks;k tkrk gSA fQj lery LFkku ij QSyk;k tkrk gS o gj nks ?kaVs ckn ;k lw[kus ij ml ij ikuh dk fNM+dko fd;k tkrk gSA ;g ikuh fNM+dus dh fØ;k 9 fnu 9

yxkrkj pyrh jgrh gS D;ksafd blls diM+s dk jax gYdk ugha iM+rk gSA xgjk o gYdk yky] dkyk vkSj lQsn vyx&vyx gks tkrs gSa blds ckn diM+s dks dM+k djus ds fy, pkoy ds ek¡M esa Mkyrs gSaA ftl ij ekse ds }kjk isUV ;k fizaV djuk vklku gks tkrk gS ftl LFkku dks uhys jax ls ugha jaxuk gksrk gS ogk¡ ij /;kuiwoZd dye ;k CykWd dh lgk;rk ls ekse yxk;k tkrk gSA diM+s dks vPNh rjg ls QksYM djds oSV MkbZ ds ?kksy esa rc rd Mkyk tkrk gS tc rd fcuk ekse yxk lQsn Hkkx uhyk u gks tk,] diM+s dks gok esa vkWDlhdj.k fØ;k ds fy, lq[kk;k tkrk gS blds ckn ekse fudkyus ds fy, mls xeZ ikuh esa Mkyrs gSaA lkcqu o ued okys ikuh ls diM+s dks /kksrs gaSA tgk¡ ij vko’;drk gks CykWd ;k dye ds }kjk ihyk jax yxk;k tkrk gS tc ihys jax dks uhys jax ij yxk;k tkrk gS rks og gjk gks tkrk gSA

Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (Self-check Questions) 5. dyedkjh esa L=h vkÑfr;ksa esa dkSu lk ikjEifjd jax iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS\

8-7

dyedkjh esa vk/kqfud fMt+kbu (Modern Designs in Kalamkari)

1958 esa vkWy bf.M;k gS.MhØk¶V cksMZ us dyedkjh dkjhxjksa dh Vªsfuax ds fy, ,d Ldwy [kksyk ftlls mUgsa vkSj dq’ky cuk;k tk;sA rkfd os Hkkjrh; cktkj o fons’kh cktkj ds dks iwjk dj ldasA bl rjg ds cktkj dh ekax ds vk/kkj ij blesa ikjEifjd diM+s tSls twV] fyuu] Hkkjh twV flYd] lwr vkSj ykbØk vkfn dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA QS’ku ds vuqlkj ikjEifjd] izkÑfrd rFkk Qwyksa ds fMt+kbu iz;ksx fd;s tkrs gSa] tSls eksj] gal] rksrk] dey] dkydk ¼istyh½] Vªh vkWQ ykbQ] jkek;.k egkHkkjr esa ik=ksa ls fy;s nsoh nsork ¼fp= 8-18½A dqN T;kferh; o Qwyksa ds uewus Hkh curs gSaA

y{;

fp= 88-18

ikjEifjd ihyk jax L=h vkÑfr;ksa ds fy,] uhyk nsork o yky jax jk{klksa ds LFkku ij QS’ku ds vuqlkj pednkj jaxksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkus yxk gSA dyedkjh dks ge pknjksa] ySEi 'ksM o vU; izdkj ds ifj/kkuksa ij Hkh ns[k ldrs gSaA

8-8

nRr dk;Z (Assignments)

8-8-1 d{kk dk;Z (Class Assignments) i) dyedkjh esa iz;ksx gksus okys fofHkUu izdkj ds uewus cukb;sA ii) dyedkjh dh jsfIydk cukb;sA

8-8-2 x`g dk;Z (Home Assignments)

i) eSxt+hu] nqdkuksa o usV ls fofHkUu izdkj dh dyedkjh fp=ksa dks ,df=r dfj;s] mUgsa lQkbZ

ls fpidkb;s o uke fyf[k,A

8-9

lkjka’k (Summing Up)

dyedkjh 3000 lky iqjkuh isUVsM o fizaVsM oL=ksa ij dh tkus okyh dyk gSA bldk tUe elwyhiêue esa gqvk tks vkU/kzizns’k dk rVh; {ks= gSA ckn esa ;g dyk vusd LFkkuksa ij QSyh] ftuesa fr:ifr ds ikl Jh dykgLrh] cgqr izfl) gSA dyedkjh nks izdkj dh gksrh gSa] Jh dykgLrh vkSj elwyhiêueA ikjEifjd isafVax o fizafVax dk dk;Z gkFkksa ls izkÑfrd jaxksa ds }kjk fd;k tkrk gSA

8-10 Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj (Possible Answers to Selfcheck Questions) 1. dyedkjh dk mn~Hko elwyhiêue xk¡o esa gqvk tks gSnjkckn ls 200 fdeh0 nwj iwcZ esa fLFkr gSA 2. dyedkjh 'kCn dye rFkk dkjh ls feydj cuk gSA dye dk vFkZ gS ys[kuh vkSj dkjh dk vFkZ gS

dk;Z dyedkjh isafVax izkÑfrd jaxksa ls curh gS ftlesa ikjEifjd uewus] Vªh vkWQ ykbQ] i{kh vkSj tkuoj vkfn cuk, tkrs gSA 3. Jh dykgLrh o elwyhiVue dyedkjh djus ds nks rjhds gSaA 4. dyedkjh esa jax iz;ksx gksrs gSa xgjk yky] dkyk] bf.Mxks] gjk] ihyk eVeSyk xqykch] Hkwjk] vkSj gYdk lQsnA 5. dyedkjh dyk esa L=h dh vkÑfr ds fy, ikjEifjd ihyk jax iz; ksx fd;k tkrk gSA

8-11 vH;klkFkZ iz’u (Terminal Questions) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

dyedkjh oL=ksa dh D;k fo’ks"krk;sa gS\ dyedkjh dyk fdruh iqjkuh gS\ eksMZsfUVax D;k gS\ dyedkjh oL=ksa esa BIiksa }kjk fizafVax fdlus vkjEHk dh\ vn~nkdke~ vlyh dyedkjh ls fdl izdkj vyx gS\

8-12 lanHkZ ,oa vH;klkFkZ iz’u (Suggested Further Reading and References) 1. Anonymous. 2005. Paramparik Karigar. Mumbai. 2. Barnes, R., and Oth. 2002. Trade, Temple and Court Indian Textiles, Indian Book House Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai. 3. Bhatnagar, P. 2005. Decorative Design History in Indian Textiles and Costumes. Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh. 4. Bhatnagar, P. 2003. Traditional Indian Costumes and textiles. Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh 11

5. Gillow, J. and Barnard, N. 1991.Thames &Hudson Limited, London. 6. Singh, M. 2000. Handcrafted Indian Textiles:Tradition & Beyond. Roli Books, New Delhi.

8-13 'kCnkoyh (Glossary) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

eathB xokgh iqjkrRo [kqnkbZ fpUV~l vknsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;k

ekjfld fof{kIr lk{kkr izfrKku izkphu dky nQu oLrqvksa dks irk yxkuk NikbZ ds fy, lkQ fd;k oL= 'kklu