ikB&1 /kkxs rFkk diM+s cukus dh izkjfEHkd izfØ;k (PREPARATORY PROCESSES FOR YARNS & FABRICS) lajpuk 1-0 1-1 1-2 1-3 1-4
mÌs’; izLrkouk v’kq)rk nwj djus dh vko’;drk izkjfEHkd izfØ;k ds ewy fl)kar lwrh /kkxksa ,oa diM+ksa dh lQkbZ izfØ;k 1-4-1 1-4-2 1-4-3
1-5 1-6
fMlkbft+ fMlkbft+ax Ldkmfjax Cyhfpax
lwrh js’kksa ds vfrfjDr vU; js’kkas ls cus mRiknksa dh lQkbZ djuk nÙk dk;Z 1-6-1 d{kk dk;Z 1-6-2 x`g dk;Z
1-7 1-8 1-9 1-10 1-11
lkjka’k Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mÙkj vH;klkFkZ iz’u lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa ’kCnkoyh
1 /kkxs rFkk diM+s cukus dh izkjfEHkd izfØ;k (PREPARATORY PROCESSES FOR YARNS & FABRICS) VsDLVkby ds ?kVdksa esa fdlh u fdlh izdkj dh v’kqf);k¡ jgrh gS ftudks fdlh Hkh jklk;fud izfØ;k vkjEHk djus ls iwoZ nwj djuk vko’;d gSA bu v’kqf);ksa dks nwj djus ds fy, fuf’pr iwoZ&mipkj (pre-treatment) tSls Mhlkbft+ax] Ldkmfjax rFkk Cyhfpax gS ftudk bl ikB esa v/;;u fd;k tk;sxkA blds ckn ds nks ikBksa esa ge MkbZ rFkk MkbZax ij fopkj djsaxsA
1-0
mÌs’; (objectives) • • • •
bl ikB dk v/;;u djus ds i’pkr~ vki ;g fuEufyf[kr ds fo"k; esa tku ik;saxs% v’kqf);ksa dks nwj djus dh vko’;drk vkjfEHkd izfØ;k ds ewy fl)kar lwrh diM+s ,oa js’kksa dh lQkbZ izfØ;k lwrh js’kksa ds vfrfjDr vU; ja’kksa }kjk cus mRiknksa dh Cyhfpax djuk
1-1 izLrkouk (Introduction) VsDLVkby ?kVdksa esa dqN fuf’pr v’kqf);k¡ gksr h gSA ftUgsa fdlh Hkh jklk;fud izfØ;k tSls jaxkbZ djus ls iwoZ nwj djuk vko’;d gSA bu v’kqf);ksa dks nwj gksus ds i’pkr~ mudh jax lkexzh dks 'kksf"kr djus dh {kerk c<+ tkrh gSA blds vfrfjDr bu izfØ;kvksa ls VsDLVkby lkexzh vf/kd lq#fplaié (acceptable) gks tkrh gSA rhu eq[; izkjfEHkd izfØ;k,as Mhlkbft+ax] Ldkmfjax rFkk Cyhfpax gSA Cyhfpax dh Hkwfedk ¼fp= 1-1½ lwrh js’kksa ds fy;s vf/kd egRoiw.kZ gS D;ksafd blls lwrh js’kksa dk izk—frd ihykiu nwj gks tkrk gS rFkk js’ks lQsn gks tkrs gSaA blfy, bl ikB esa lwrh js’ks ij vf/kd cy fn;k tk;sxkA blds vfrfjDr vU; js’kksa ij Hkh laf{kIr fopkj tk;sxkA lwrh ¼dikl½ dPps eky esa fofHké v’kqf);k¡ gksrh bu izk—frd v’kqf);ksa esa ekse] izksVhu] jaxhu inkFkZ rFkk ds vo’ks"k lfEefyr gksrs gSaA blds vfrfjDr js’kksa ls /kkxs /kkxksa ls diM+k cukrs le; fofHké izdkj dh v’kqf);k¡ fey tkrh gSaA
cgqr
fd;k
fp= 11-1 diM+s dh Cyhfpax
gSaA chtksa rFkk blesa
bu v’kqf);ksa esa fpdukbZ] drkbZ ds d.k] /kkrq ds d.k rFkk fMlkbft+ax ?kVd ¼eq[; :i ls LVkpZ½ vkfn gksrs gSaA bu v’kqf);ksa dks vo’; nwj djuk pkfg;sA Ldkmfjax rFkk Cyhfpax] /kkxs rFkk diM+s
dh jaxkbZ ls igys dh tkus okyh vko’;d izfØ;k,a gSaA ;fn /kkxs ;k diM+s ij LVkpZ vkfn dqN yxk;k x;k gks mldks fMlkbft+ax izfØ;k }kjk Ldkmfjax ;k Cyhfpax ls igys nwj dj nsuk vko’;d gSA
1-2
v’kqf);k¡ nwj djus dh vko’;drk (Necessity to remove impurities)
,d leku jaxkbZ rFkk fizafVax djus ds fy;s izk—frd ekse dks nwj djuk cgqr vko’;d gS D;ksafd bldks nwj djus ls ikuh 'kksf"kr djus dh 'kfDr c<+ tkrh gSaA isfDVu] olk rFkk vU; rRoksa tSlh v’kqf);ksa dks nwj djus ls mudh jax 'kksf"kr djus dh {kerk rFkk :i jax esa lq/kkj gksrk gSA¼fp= 1-2½
fp= 11-2 gkFk ls v’kqf);ksa dks gVkuk
blds vfrfjDr lwr dk ewy jax izk—frd jax rRoksa dh mifLFkfr ds dkj.k ihysiu ij gksrk gSA bu rRoksa dks nwj djus ls lwr eas lQsn h c<+ tkrh gSA chtksa ds vo’ks"kksa dks nwj djuk vko’;d gS D;ksafd ;fn budks nwj u fd;k tk;s rks diM+s ij dkys /kCcs fn[kkbZ nsaxsA cqus gq, diM+s eas fpifpik inkFkZ tks cqukbZ ;k rkus] ckus eas yxk;k tkrk gS dks nwj djuk Hkh vko’;d gS D;ksafd ;g izk—frd v’kqf);ksa dks nwj djus esa vojks/k iSnk djrk gSA blfy, cqus gq, diM+s dh Mhlkbft+ax djuk vkjfEHkd izfØ;k gSA vU; egRoiw.kZ izfØ;k,sa Cyhfpax rFkk Ldkmfjax gSaA
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u 1. 2. 3. 4.
1-3
(Self Check Questions)
lwrh js’kksa esa dkSu dkSu lh izk—frd v’kqf);k¡ gksr h gS\ lwph cukb,A izk—frd ekse dks nwj djuk D;ksa vko’;d gS\ chtksa ds vo’ks"kksa dks nwj djuk D;ksa vko’;d gS\ lwrh js’kksa esa lfEefyr v’kqf);ksa ds uke fy[kksA
vkjfEHkd izfØ;k ds ewy fl)kar
(Basic Principle of Preparatory
Processes) izk—frd rFkk feykbZ xbZ v’kqf);k¡ nksuksa ikuh esa ?kqyu’khy ugha gksrhA vkjfEHkd izfØ;kvksa ds }kjk mudks ikuh esa ?kqyu’khy cuk;k tkrk gSA D;ksafd bu v’kqf);ksa ds jklk;fud xq.k ,d nwljs ls
fHké gksrs gSa] blfy;s muds fy, jklk;u rFkk izfØ;k ds ekin.M ftlls mudks ikuh esa ?kqyu’khy cuk;k tkrk gS Hkh fHké gksrs gSaA Mhlkbft+ax }kjk fpidk;s x;s inkFkZ tks eq[;r;k LVkpZ gksrk gS dks nwj fd;k tkrk gSA bldks nwj djus ds fy;s ,UtkbeSfVd mipkj (enzymatic treatment) dh vko’;drk gksrh gSA Ldkmfjax }kjk rsy] olk] ekse] isfDVd inkFkksaZ rFkk izksVhu dks ,flM tSls dkfLVd lksMk ds mipkj }kjk nwj fd;k tkrk gSA Cyhfpax izfØ;k }kjk jaxhu inkFkksZa rFkk chtksa ds vo’ks"kksa dks vkDlhMkbftax rRoksa ds mipkj tSls Cyhfpax ikmMj ;k gkbMªkstu ijkWDlkbM ds iz;ksx }kjk nwj fd;k tkrk gSA
1-4
lwrh /kkxksa rFkk js’kksa ds fy, lQkbZ izfØ;k
(The cleaning Processes for
Cotton yarns and Fibrics) lwrh /kkxk ges izk—frd gYds ihys jax esa izkIr gksrk gS ftls LysVh /kkxk dgrs gSa rFkk blls cqus x;s diM+s dks xzs QSfczd dgrs gSaA dHkh dHkh /kkxs dks igys jaxk tkrk gS rFkk blds i’pkr~ jaxhu /kkxs ls diM+k cquk tkrk gS igyh fLFkfr esa cquus ds ckn jaxkbZ ls igys diM+s dh Mhlkbftax] Ldkmfjax rFkk Cyhfpax dh tkrh gS rFkk nwljh fLFkfr esa lwr dks jaxus ls igys Ldkmfjax ,oa Cyhfpax dh tkrh gSA
1-4-1 fMlkbftax (Desizing) ;fn diM+k lkbt+M /kkxs (sized ls cquk tkrk gS mlds fy;s mipkj ls igys fMlkbftax djuk vko’;d gSA blds fy;s dks ,Utkbe ds 0-5 tyh; ?kksy esa 8 ?kaVs ds iwjh rjg fHkxksdj j[kuk pkfg;sA fpifpis dks nwj djus ds i’pkr~ diM+s dks xeZ rFkk ikuh esa /kksuk pkfg;sA
1-4-2 Ldkmfjax (Scouring)
yarn)
diM+s fy;s inkFkZ BaMs fp= 11-3 Mhlkbftax
tSls fd igys crk;k x;k gS Ldkmfjax ¼fp= 1-4½ /kkxs fMlkbT+M diM+s ds fy;s dh tkrh gSA blds fy;s tyh; ?kksy ds fy;s 2 xzk0 izfr yhVj VdhZ yky rsy (turkey red oil) rFkk dkfLVd lksMk (NAOH) /kkxs ;k diM+s ds Hkkj ds vuqlkjA blds vfrfjDr FkksMh ek=k esa xhyk djus okyk rRo (wetting agent) diM+s /kksus dk ikmMj Hkh feyk;k tkrk gSA diM+s ;k /kkxs dks :i ls ?kksy esa ,d jkr ds fy;s fHkxks;k tkrk gSA izkr%dky dks ?kksy ls fudkyus ls igys ydM+h ds MUMs ls ihVk tkrk gS v’kqf);k¡ diM+s ls ckgj fudy tkrh gSA ;fn diM+s dks ,d ?kaVk fn;k tk;s rks lQkbZ vf/kd izHkkoh gksrh gSA blds i’pkr~ bldks ;k xeZ ikuh esa /kks;k tkrk gS rFkk Cyhfpax ds fy;s Hkstk fn;k gSaA ;fn mPp Lrj ij ;g dk;Z djuk gks rks /kkxs dh yPNksa ds
;k cukus 2%
fp= 11-4 Ldkmfjax fd;k gqvk ;kuZ
rFkk iw.kZ lkexzh ftlls mcky BaMs tkrk :i esa
Ldkmfjax ds fy;s Kier dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS rFkk bl fØ;k dks 1000 ls 1300 c ij pkj ls N% ?kUVs rd fd;k tkrk gSA
1-4-3 Cyhfpax (Bleaching) mxkbZ xbZ dikl @:bZ dk jax gYdk Hkwjk gksrk gSA Cyhfpax }kjk bl jaxhu inkFkZ dks :bZ ls vyx fd;k tkrk gS rFkk bl fØ;k ls ;g lQsn ,oa pedhyh cu tkrh gSA loZizFke Cyhfpax ikmMj dh isLV cukbZ tkrh gS ftlesa lw[ks lwr ;k diM+s ds Hkkj dk 6% ls 8% Cyhfpax ikmMj dh ek=k gksrh gSA ;g isLV ,d pkSMs eq¡g okys crZu esa cuk;k tkrk gS ftlesa FkksMh ek=k esa ikuh Mkyk tkrk gSA gkFkksa esa nLrkus igu dj bl dks gkFkksa ls xksykbZ esa ?kqek;k tkrk gSA bl fØ;k ls Cyhfpax ikmMj dk isLV rS;kj gks tkrk gSA blds i’pkr~ isLV dks ,d cMs crZu esa Mkyk tkrk gS ftlesa ikuh gksrk gS rFkk bldks cgqr tksj ls MUMs ls ?kqek;k tkrk gS rFkk blds i’pkr~ bldks 15 feuV ds fy;s fLFkj j[kk tkrk gSA Åijh lrg ij fn[kkbZ nsus okys Hkkx ;k Qkse dks lgtrk ls ,d NksVs crZu dh lgk;rk ls fudkyk tkrk gS rFkk cM+s crZu esa tks 'ks"k jg tkrk gS og lkQ ikuh ds Hkk¡fr fn[kkbZ nsrk gSA okLro esa Cyhfpax ikmMj ?kqy dj lkQ ?kksy cu tkrk gSA vc bldks vU; cMs crZu esa cny fn;k tkrk gS blesa vkSj vf/kd ikuh Hkjs rFkk vPNh izdkj fgykrs jgsaA vc Cyhfpax djus okyh oLrq dks bl ?kksy esa vPNh rjg fHkxksnsa] /;ku jgsa fd oLrq dk dksb Z Hkh Hkkx ?kksy ls ckgj ugha jguk pkfg;s ¼fp= 1-6 (a)½ rFkk lkexzh dks de ls de ,d ?kUVk mlesa Mwck jguk pkfg;sA blds i’pkr~ bldks ?kksy esa ls fudky dj ikuh ls /kksdj lq[kk nsuk pkfg, ¼fp= 1-6 (b)½A
Cyhfpa x ?kksy dks dbZ ckj iz;ksx esa yk;k fp= 11-5 Cyhfpax ikmMj fp= 1-6a Cyhfpax ds fy, tk fp= 11-6 b Cyhp fd;k gqv k diM+s diM+k ldrk ] dHkh&dHkh chp esa u;k Cyhp dk ?kksy Hkh Mkyk tk ldrk gS ftlls ?kksy esa Dyksjhu dh ek=k cjkcj cuh jgs D;ksfd blls lQsnh dh fMxzh dh leku :irk lqfuf’pr gks tkrh gSA Cyhfpax ds i’pkr~ diM+k cukus dh lkexzh dks ,d crZu esa Mqck;k tkrk gS blesa vkWifVdy czkbVfuax ,tsaV (optical brighting agent) tSls ^fVuksikWy^ Hkjk gksrk gS ;g dsoy mu diM+ksa ds fy, gSa ftudksa jax dj ugha cspk tkrkA
Cyhfpax ikmMj ds vfrfjDr dHkh&dHkh lksfM;e gkbiksdyksjsV Hkh Cyhfpax ds fy, iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gSA ijUrq bu nksuksa dks okrkoj.k nwf"kr djus ds dkj.k ilan ugha fd;k tkrk D;ksafd buesa Dyksjhu gksrk gS gkbMªkstu ijkDlkbM+ rFkk lksfM;e ijcksjsV vf/kd mfpr Cyhfpax rRo gS vr% vktdy budk iz;ksx vf/kd gksrk gSA
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (self-check questions) 56• • •
1-5
xzs oksou diM+ksa ds fy, dkSu lh izFke izkjfEHd izfØ;k gS\ fuEu fØ;kvksa ls fdl izdkj dh v’kqf);k¡ nwj dh tk ldrh gsA Mhlkbftax Ldkmfjax Cyhfpax
lwrh js’kksa ds vfrfjDr vU; js’kksa }kjk cus mRiknksa dh lQkbZ (Cleaning of prouducts made fibres other than cotton)
dPph Åu ¼fp= 1-7½ esa xzhl] xanxh] ouLifr inkFkksaZ v’kqf);k¡ lfEefyr gksrh gSa ftudks nwj djus ds fy, js’kksa dks iw.kZ:i ls lkQ djuk iM+rk gSa dHkh&dHkh jklk;fud mipkj (chemical treatment) dh vko’;drk gksrh gS tks js’kksa ds lkFk gq, daVhys chtksa rFkk okuLifr inkFkksZa dks nwj djus ds fy;s esa yk;s tkrs gSaA cgqr de gh izk—frd Åu 'kq) lQsn gksrh gS Åu dh Cyhfpax dfBu dk;Z gS D;ksafd ;g laosnu’khy gksrh gS vr% Åu Cyhfpax rHkh dh tkrh gS tc cgqr gh vko’;d gksA Åu ds js’ks jaxksa ds izfr cgqr vkd"kZ.k gksr k gS rFkk lHkh izdkj ds ¼fp= 1-8½ ls Åu ds js’kksa dks mfpr jklk;fud fu;U=.k }kjk jaxk tk ldrk gSA 'kgrwr ij Qyus okys js’ke cukrs gSaA ,Utkbe ij (fibroin) dks DyksfjusV djrs tkrkA gkbMªkstu ijkDlkbM gSA
js’ke ds dhMs lQsn] ihyh ;k ihyh vk/kkfjr Cyhfpax rRo Qkbcjkbu gSa blfy;s izk;% bldk iz;ksx ugha vf/kd ilan djus okyk Cyhfpax
tSlh Q¡ls iz;ksx fp= 11-7 dPpk Åu
dh dk jaxksa
fp= 11-8 dPph flYd
gjh fd;k rRo
flUFksfVd js’kksa dk ¼fp= 1-9½ vkerkSj ij cgqr fHkUu bfrgkl gS tks flfUFklkbtM+ (synthesized) dPps eky ls cuk;s tkrs gSa] ifj.kkeLo:i ;s lQsn jax ds gksrs gSa vr% budks Cyhp djus dh fp= 11-9 flaFksfVd js’ks vko’;drk ugha gksrhA fQj Hkh jaxkbZ ls igys bu js’kksa dks Ldkmfjaax mipkj (scouring treatment) fn;k tk ldrk gS ftuls drkbZ ds le; nh x;h fQfuf’kax
tSlh v’kqf);k¡ nwj dh tk ldrh gSaA iksfy,LVj js’kksa dks Ldkmfjax ls igys ghV lsfVax }kjk fLFkj fd;k tkrk gSA flaFkSfVd js’kksa dks vYVªk OgkbV cukus ds fy, mudks Cyhp fd;k tk ldrk gS
Lo;a tk¡p iz’u (self-check questions) 7- dPph Åu esa fdl izdkj dh v’kqf);k¡ ikbZ tkrh gSa\ 8- dPps js’ke dk jax dSlk gksrk gS % • 'kgrwr ij ikys tkus okys js’ke dhM+ksa }kjk cuk js’ke • taxyh js’ke ds dhM+ksa }kjk cuk js’ke
xfrfof/k (Activity) 1-
1-6
vkidks Ldkmfjax ,oa Cyhfpax ds vadu okys dqN diM+s fn;s x;s gSa A mudk v/;;u djus ds i’pkr~ fHkUu rF;ksa ij viuk izLrqfrdj.k rS;kj djsa% • izk—frd diM+s dk uewuk • flaFkSfVd diM+s dk uewuk
foLr`r
nÙkdk;Z (Assignment)
1-6-1 d{kk dk;Z (Class Assignment) i)
,d bdkbZ tgk¡ lwrh /kkxksa rFkk diM+ksa dh Ldkmfjax rFkk Cyhfpax gksrh gks ns[ksaA
1-6-2 x`g dk;Z (Home Assignment) i)
1-7
izk—frd ,oa flaFkSfVd js’kksa ls cus] CyhpM rFkk jaxs gq;s diM+ksa ds 5&7 uewus izkIr dhft;sA
lkjka’k (Summing up)
/kkxs ,oa diM+s dh jaxkbZ ls igys dh tkus okyh izfØ;kvksa dh vko’;drk rFkk rhu egRoiw.kZ fØ;kvks vFkkZr~ Mhlkbftax] Ldkmfjax rFkk Cyhfpax dk o.kZu fd;k x;kA bl ikB esa mRikn ds vuqlkj lwrh diM+s ,oa /kkxs rFkk Cyhfpax izfØ;k ds vuqlkj egRo fn;k x;kA
1-8 Lo;a tk¡p iz’uksa ds lEHkkfor mÙkj (possible answers to self-check questions)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
lwrh dPps eky es izk—frd v’kqf);k¡ lfEefyr gksr h gS os gSa] ekse izksVhu] isfDVUl] jaxhu inkFkZ rFkk chtksa ds vo’ks"kA izk—frd ekse dks nwj djus ls js’kksa o diM+s dh ikuh 'kksf"kr djus dh {kerk c<+ tkrh gS rFkk jaxkbZ ,oa fizafVax ,d leku gksrh gSA chtksa ds vo’ks"kksa ds dkj.k diM+s esa fn[kkbZZ nsus okys NksVs dkys /kCcs cu tkrs gSaA lwrh js’kksa esa vU; lfEefyr gksus okyh v’kqf);k¡ gSa fpdukbZ] /kkrq ds d.k] drkbZ dh fQfuf’kax rFkk lkbftax rRo ¼eq[;r% LVkpZ½ MhlkbftaxA • • •
7. 8.
1-9
Mhlkbftax }kjk fpidkus okys inkFkZ dks nwj fd;k tkrk gS tks eq[; :i ls LVkpZ gksrk gSA Ldkmfjax }kjk fpdukbZ] olk] ekse] isfDVUl rRo rFkk izksVhu dks nwj fd;k tkrk gSA Cyhfpax }kjk jaxus okys inkFkZ ,oa chtksa ds vo’ks"k nwj fd;s tkrs gSaA
Åu ds dPps eky esa xzhl] dhpM+ rFkk ouLifr inkFkksaZ dh v’kqf);k¡ gksrh gSaA 'kgrwr ds isM+ks ij js’ke okys dhM+s lQsn] ihyh ;k ihyh gjh jax dh js’ke cukrs gSa rFkk taxyh js’ke ds dhM+s czkmu ls CySd czkmu js’ke cukrs gSaA
vH;klkFkZ iz’u (Terminal Questions) 1. diM+s dks jax us ls igys nsus okys mipkjksa dk D;k egRo gS\ 2. vkjfEHkd izfØ;kvksa dk o.kZu djrs gq, ,d fuca/k fy[ksaA 3. lwrh js’kksa ds vfrfjDr vU; mRiknksa dh Cyhfpax izfØ;k dk o.kZu dhft,A 4. H2 O2 D;k gksrk gS\ rFkk bldk D;k mi;ksx gS\ 5. flaFksfVd js’kksa dks jaxkbZ ls igys Cyhp djus dh vko’;drk D;ksa ugha gksrh\
1-10 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa(Suggested further reading and references) 1. Marsh, J. J. 1979. An Introduction to Textile Bleaching. B.I. Publications, India. 2. Trotman, E. R. 1968. Textile Scouring and Bleaching. Charles Giffen & Co, London.
1-11 'kCnkoyh 'kCnkoyh(Glossary) 1. 2. 3.
dSfY’k;e gkbiksDyksj kb v?kqyu’khy ;kuZ ¼/kkxs½
,d jlk;u ftldk iz;ksx dkiM+s dks Cyhp djus ds fy, gksrk gS tks ikuh esa ?kqyu’khy u gksA ¼lwrh] flYd] Åu ;k ukbykWu½ js’kksa dks ,aV ¼fV~oLV½ dj cuk;k x;k /kkxkA