ikB 2 d<+kbZ ds Qsnj] lSfVu] yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp (FEATHER, SATIN AND LONG & SHORT STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY) lajpuk 2-0
mÌs’;
2-1 2-2
çLrkouk d<+kbZ ds le; j[kus okyh lko/kkfu;k¡
2-3
Qsnj fLVp
2-4 2-5
lSfVu fLVp yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp
2-6
nRr dk;Z
2-7
lkjka’k
2-8 2-9
vH;klkFkZ ç’u lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa
2-6-1 d{kk dk;Z 2-6-2 x`g dk;Z
2-10 'kCnkoyh
2 Qsnj] lSfVu] yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp (FEATHER, SATIN AND LONG & SHORT STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY) bl ;wfuV ds izFke ikB esa geus d<+kbZ dh ,sfrgkfld i`"BHkwfe dk v/;;u fd;k] Hkkjr dh fof’k"V d<+kbZ 'kSfy;ksa ds fo"k; esa] lkexzh o midj.k tks d<+kbZ esa dke vkrs gSa vkSj vUr esa nks ewy Vkads jfuax vkSj LVse fLVp ds fo"k; esa tkukA bl ikB esa ge] Qsnj fLVp] lSfVu fLVp vkSj yk¡x ,.M 'kkVZ fLVp ds ckjs eas tkusaxsA
2-0
mÌs’; (Objectives)
bl ikB dks i<+us ds i’pkr~ vki% • d<+kbZ esa j[kus okyh lko/kkfu;k¡ le> ldsaxsA • Qsnj fLVp] lSfVu fLVp o yk¡x ,.M 'kkVZ fLVp dh igpku dj ldsaxsA • ;g tku ldsaxs fd ;g fLVp dSls cuk, tk ldrs gSa vkSj buds fofo/k mi;ksxksa dks tku ldsaxsA
2-1
çLrkouk (Introduction)
d<+kbZ ^^oL= dks lqbZ ds dke ls ltkus dh ,d dyk gS**A lqbZ vkSj /kkxs ds mi;ksx ls vkd"kZd uewus dh jpuk dh tk ldrh gSA ge fiNys v/;k; esa ;g tku pqds gSa fd jfuax vkSj LVse fLVp dk ç;ksx dj ds fdrus lqUnj uewus dk<+s tk ldrs gSaA bl ikB esa Qsnj fLVp] lSfVu fLVp vkSj yk¡x ,.M 'kkVZ fLVp ds mi;ksx vkus okys fofHkUu pj.kksa dk o.kZu fd;k tk;sxkA fdUrq bldks djus ls iwoZ d<+kbZ djus ls lEcfU/kr lHkh lko/kkfu;k¡ tku ysuk vR;ar ykHknk;d gSA
2-2
d<+kbZ djrs le; j[kus okyh lko/kkfu;k¡ (Precautions to be taken during Embroidery)
i) d<+kbZ ds le;% • d<+kbZ çkjEHk djus ls iwoZ d<+kbZ dk fjax ¼gwi½ ;k Ýse Hkyh Hkk¡fr yxk ysuk pkfg,A
;g yxk ysus ds ckn Mªe dh rjg fn[kuk pkfg,A • /kkxk 18" ls vf/kd yack ugha gksuk pkfg, vU;Fkk ;g Qal ldrk gS ;k xkaB yx ldrh gSA • d<+kbZ ds çkjEHk o var esa xk¡B dk mi;ksx u djsaA • d<+kbZ ds vuq:i mi;qDr la[ ;k dh lqbZ dk mi;ksx djsaA
ii) d<+kbZ ds ckn%
• •
2-3
d<+kbZ fd;s x;s fgLls ij xeZ bL=h ugha pykb,A d<+kbZ fd;s oL= dks /kwi esa ugha lq[kkb;sA
Qsnj fLVp (Feather Stitch)
Qsnj fLVp ,d ,slk d<+kbZ dk fLVp gS ftlesa frjNh ykbu esa Vk¡ds pyrs gSaA ;g Vk¡das ck,¡ vkSj nk,¡ ,d ds ckn ,d ds vUrj esa pyrs gSaA Qsnj fLVp dks fuEu :i ls ifjHkkf"kr fd;k tk ldrk gSA ^^;g ,d ,slh fLVp gS ftlesa NksVs Vkads eq[; d<+h gqbZ js[kk ls ledks.k cukrs gSa**A bl Vk¡ds ds fofHkUu pj.k% • tc bl fLVp dks lh[kuk çkjEHk djsa rks pkj lekukUrj js[kk,sa oL= ij [khap yasA • blds ckn lqbZ dks igyh js[kk ls Åij dh vksj fudkysa] /kkxs dks ck,¡ vaxwBs ls Fkke dj j[ksa ¼fp= 2-2½A • vc lqbZ dks rhljh js[kk ds leku Lrj ij j[krs gq, uhps dh vksj ,d NksVk Vk¡dk cukb;sA ftlls lqbZ dh uksd nwljh js[kk ds çkjEHk fcanq ij fudysa ¼fp= 2-2½A • /kkxs dks lqbZ dh uksd ds fupys fgLls esa j[krs gq, diM+s ij ls /kkxs dks [khap yhft,& Vk¡dk cutk;sxk ¼fp= 2-2½A • blds ckn leku Lrj ij pkSFkh js[kk ij ?kqlkb;s rkfd uhps dh vksj vkSj NksVk Vk¡dk cu tk;s vkSj lqbZ dh uksd dks rhljh js[kk ij fudkfy, ¼fp= 2-2½A • Åij ls uhps dh vksj Vk¡¡ds cukb,A • blls ,d ia[k lh jpuk fn[kuh çkjEHk gks tkrh gS] ,d ds varjky esa dsUnz js[kk ls nk¡, vkSj ck¡, vkSj Vk¡ds dk /kkxk ysrs pfy,A • çR;sd ckj Vk¡¡ds dks vaxwBs ds uhps nckrs gq, lqbZ dks /khjs ls [khafp,A • lqbZ dh fiNyh o vkxs dh xfr ds dkj.k ;g /;ku j[kuk pkfg, fd dsUnz js[kk ls nksuksa vkSj Vk¡ds leku vkdkj ds gksus pkfg,A • ;g lq>ko gS fd dsUnz dh vksj ds nksuksa vksj cjkcj nwjh ij gYdh js[kk,¡ [khap dj Vk¡dk cukuk çkjEHk djsaA • uqdhyh o yEch Nsn okyh lqbZ 7 ls 9 uEcj dh mi;ksx dh tkuh pkfg,A
fp= 22-1 Qsnj fLVp
fp= 22-2 Qsnj fLVp djus ds pj.k
xfrfof/k (Activity) 1. 2.
,d uewus dk p;u dhft, tks Qsnj Vk¡ds ds yk;d gks vkSj fn[kk, x, fp= ds vuqlkj Qsnj Vk¡ds dk mi;ksx djrs gq, d<+kbZ dhft,A ,d oL= yhft,] bl ij rhu vyx jaxksa ds /kkxs ls rhuksa çdkj ds Qsnj Vk¡dksa ls d<+kbZ dhft,A
Qsnj Vk¡ds ds dqN fofo/k çdkj] bdgjk Qsnj Vk¡dk] nksgjk Qsnj Vk¡dk] frgjk Qsnj Vk¡dk tSlk fp= 2-3 o 2-4 esa fn[kk;k x;k gSA
fp= 2-3 Qsnj Vk¡ds dk mnkgj.k
fp= 2-4 Qsnj Vk¡ds ds fofo/k çdkj
tc vki ,d ckj ck,¡ vkSj ,d ckj nk,¡ pyrs gSa rc ;g bdgjk Qsnj Vk¡dk dgykrk gSA tc vki nks ckj ck,¡ vkSj ,d ckj nk,¡ pyrs gSa rc ;g nksgjk Qsnj Vk¡dk dgykrk gSA tc vki rhu ckj ck,¡ vkSj ,d ckj nk,¡ pyrs gSa rc ;g frgjk Qsnj Vk¡dk dgykrk gSA
mi;ksx% bl Vk¡ds dk mi;ksx] :eky] foc] lkM+h dh fdukfj;k¡¡] fdlh iks"kkd dh ckgksa vkSj xys dh fdukjksa ij] ÝkWd dh ?ksj dh ykbuksa esa] iQ] ckgksa ds fdukjksa ij vkfn fd;k tkrk gSA bl Vk¡ds dk mi;ksx uqdhyk çHkko n’kkZus ds fy, ;k dk¡Vksa dk çHkko n’kkZus ds fy, Hkh fd;k tk ldrk gSA
2-4
lSfVu fLVp (Satin Stitch)
nsf[k, fp= 2-5 vkSj 2-6 lSfVu fLVp ,d ljy Vk¡dk gS tks ikl ikl NksVh i`"BHkwfe dks Hkjdj cuk;k tkrk bl Vk¡ds ls uewus dks iwjk cuk ysus ij vki bls fpduk] fLuX/k] lSfVu ds leku lrg cuh ns[k ldrs gSaA blfy, lkfVu fLVp dgrs gSaA ;g fLVp uewus dks ,d mHkjk :i Hkh djrk gSA ,d eksuksxzke lkekU;r% blh fLVp ls cuk;k gSA • lqbZ dks uewus ds fdukjs ls fiNys fgLls ls Åij ykb,A
lh/kk gSA cgqqr bls çnku tkrk fp= 2-5 lSfVu fLVp
• blh LFkku ds foijhr fdukjs ij lqbZ fudkfy,] bl çfØ;k dks nksgjkb,A /khjs ls /kkxk [khapas] Vk¡ds ,d nwljs ls ,dne ikl l?ku rjhds ls Mkfy,A • /kkxk ,d nwljs ls yxk gqvk gks ijUrq ,d nwljs ds Åij u gksA • NksVs uewus cukus ds fy, rFkk ljyrk çnku djus ds fy, ,d rkj tc fd ;fn eksVk :i çnku djus ds fy, 3 rkj dk /kkxk ys ldrs gSaA
fp= 2-6 lSfVu fLVp fp= 2-7 lSfVu fLVp fLVp dk ,d mnkgj.k • lqbZ ftlesa lfgr ç;ksx dhft,A cgqr iryk ;k cgqr eksV k diM+k er yhft,A
uacj 5 vkSj 7 iryh yEch fNnz
mi;ksx% lSfVu fLVp ls ¼fp= 2-7½ :ekyksa esa d<+kbZ dh tk ldrh gS] cSx] rfd;k fxykQ] lksQk cSd] lkM+h vkfn esa rFkk vaxzsth ds dSfiVy v{kjksa dks dk<+k tk ldrk gSA fgekpy çns’k ds pEck d<+kbZ esa nksgjs lSfVu fLVp dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA mRrjçns’k dh fpdudkjh ds ,d çdkj esa lSfVu fLVp ^cf[k;k* mYVh rjQ ls fd;k tkrk gSA
xfrfof/k (Activity) 3. 4.
2-5
diM+s ij ,d Qwy lSfVu fLVp ls dkf<+,A lSfVu fLVp ls dk<+s dqN uewus ,d= djsa vkSj lQkbZ ls mUgsa viuh dk;Z iqfLrdk esa fpidk,A
yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp (Long & Short Stitch)
okLro esa yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp lqbZ ls dh xbZ ,d isafVax ;k fp= dyk gSA ;g ,d Hkjok¡ Vk¡dk gS tks eksfVQ+ ;k uewus dks Hkj nsrk gSA ;g lSfVu fLVp dk ,d ifj"dj.k gS blds Vk¡ds vyx vyx Lrj ;k yEckbZ ds gksrs gSaA yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp ut+nhdh ls uewus dh ckgjh js[kk dks ysrs gq, Hkj dj cuk;k tkrk gSA tcfd lSfVu fLVp NksVs {ks= ;k NksVs uewus dks Hkjus esa mi;qDr jgrk gS] yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp rqyukRed :i ls cM+s uewus dks Hkjus ds fy, mi;qDr jgrk gSA bl fLVp ¼fp= 2-8½ dk mi;ksx dbZ jaxksa dh d<+kbZ ds fy, fd;k tkrk gSA ;g fLVp diM+s ds nksuksa vksj ,d lk fn[kkbZ nsrk gSA bldks djus ds pj.k bl çdkj gS%&
• • • • •
diM+s dks bl çdkj O;ofLFkr djsa fd uewuk d<+kbZ Ýse ;k ?kssjs ds dsUnz esa vk,A uewus ds pkjksa vksj dPps Vk¡dksa ls ckgjh js[kk cuk yhft,A igys uewus dks yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp ls ,d gh jax ls Hkfj,A nwljs jax ds /kkxs ls bl çdkj Hkfj, fd og mlesa vPNh rjg fiNys jax ds gh nwljs 'ksM ls feyk gqvk gksA uewuk d<+kbZ ds fy, vkxs c<+kb;sA fLVp dks ikl ikl vPNh rjg feykdj dkf<+, rkfd og xqaFkk gqvk fn[kkbZ nsA
fp= 22-8 yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp
fp= 22-9 yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp dk mnkgj.k
• gkFk dh d<+kbZ esa /kkxs dk ,d rkj ysrs gSaA d<+k gqvk fLVp nksuksa rjQ ,d tSlk fn[kkbZ nsrk gSA • e’khu dh d<+kbZ esa ckgjh js[kk nksckjk cukuh iM+rh gSA • /;ku j[ksa fd e’khu dh d<+kbZ esa ckWfcu dk /kkxk lh/kh vksj fn[kkbZ u nsA
xfrfof/k (Activity) viuh dk;Z iqfLrdk esa yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ ds d<+kbZ okys dqN uewus tek djds fpidkb,A
mi;ksx% yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp dk mi;ksx QksVks Ýse cukus] nhokj lTtk oLrq,a cukus] lkfM+;k¡] iatkch igukos] est+iks' k] pknjsa] rfd;k fxykQ] lksQk ds doj] #eky] Åuh 'kkWy] LosVlZ vkfn dks dk<+us ds fy, mi;ksx dj ldrs gSaA jktLFkku ds ^^Hkjrdke^^ esa vU; fLVpst+ ds lkFk bl fLVp dk mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA bl fLVp dk ,d mnkgj.k fp= 2-9 esa fn[kk;k x;k gSA
2-6
nRr dk;Z (Assignments)
2-6-1 d{kk dk;Z (Class Assignments) i) 8"x 12" ds oL= ij lh/kh 6" çR;sd ij Qsnj fLVp] lSfVu fLVp] yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp dkf<+,A bl
diM+s dks vU; fLVp ds vH;kl ds fy, lqjf{kr jf[k,A ii) 8"x 12" ds diM+s ij rhu ljy ;k lkns uewus cukb;sA blds fy, d{kk esa pfpZr fdlh Hkh ,d fof/k
dk mi;ksx djsaA
• • • •
çR;{k vkys[ku fof/k dkcZu dkxt+ dk mi;ksx ekseh isij dk mi;ksx jfuax fLVpksa ds mi;ksx
iii) tc vki rhuksa uewuksa dks mrkj ysa bu uewuksa esa ls ,d esa Qsnj fLVp] nwljs esa lkfVu fLVp vkSj
rhljs esa yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp ls dkf<+,A
2-6-2 x`g dk;Z (Home Assignments) i) Qsnj fLVp] lSfVu fLVp ;k yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp dk ,d d<+k gqvk uewuk [kkst dj ykb;sA
2-7
lkjka’k (Summing Up)
bl ikB esa loZç Fke d<+kbZ djrs le; j[kus okyh lko/kkfu;ksa dk mYys[k fd;k x;k gSA rhu u, çdkj ds fLVp& mnkgj.kkFkZ Qsnj] lSfVu rFkk yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp dk o.kZu Hkh fd;k x;k gS vkSj muds mi;ksx crk, x;s gSaA
2-8
vH;klkFkZ ç’u (Terminal Questions)
1)d<+kbZ djrs le; fdu lko/kkfu;ksa dk ikyu djuk pkfg,\ 2) rhuksa çdkj ds fLVpt+ dk eq[; mi;ksx& tSls Qsnj] lSfVu rFkk yk¡x ,.M 'kkWVZ fLVp dk mi;ksx
crkb;sA
2-9
lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa (Suggested Further Reading and References )
1.
Chattopadhyay, K. 1977. Indian Embroidery. Wiley Eastern Ltd. New Delhi.
2.
Mistry, N. C. Embroidery Designs. Navneet Publications Ltd. Mumbai.
3.
Naik, S.D. 1996. Traditional Corporation. New Delhi.
2-10 'kCnkoyh (Glossary) eksfVQ fLVp
& &
uewuk Vk¡dk
Embroideries
of India. A.P.H. Publishing