LESSON 11: TRADITIONAL DESIGNS STRUCTURE 11.0 OBJECTIVES 11.1 INTRODUCTION 11.2 DEFINITION 11.3 TRADITIONAL DESIGNS OF INDIA 11.3.1 BUTIS, BUTAS AND BELS 11.3.2 FLOWERING TREE OR THE TREE OF LIFE 11.3.3 JAALS 11.3.4 PAISLEYS 11.3.5 MIRRORED OR CENTRE LINE DESIGNS 11.3.6 GEOMETRICAL DESIGNS 11.3.7 CONTINUOUS LINE DESIGNS 11.3.8 JAALIS AND TESSELLATIONS
11.4 ASSIGNMENTS 11.4.1 CLASS ASSIGNMENTS
11.5 SUMMING UP 11.6 POSSIBLE ANSWERS TO SELF-CHECK QUESTIONS 11.7 TERMINAL QUESTIONS 11.8 REFERENCES AND SUGGESTED FURTHER READING 11.9 GLOSSARY
11. TRADITIONAL DESIGNS In the previous lesson, we had learnt about different types of designs. In this lesson, we will obtain an overview of some of the more common elements of traditional design. In the next and final lesson of this unit, we will learn about mirrored or centre line designs.
10.0 Objectives After going through this lesson, you will: •
Acquire an understanding of the concept of traditional design.
•
Acquire an overview of some basic elements of traditional designs.
11.1 Introduction In the first lesson of this unit, viz., Lesson 10, we were introduced to the different types of designs, namely Traditional, Modern, Realistic, Abstract, Symbolic and Folk. We had also learnt that, usually, designs are inspired and developed, based on some theme. This lesson deals in some detail with the traditional designs. India has a rich vocabulary of traditional designs and some of the more prominent ones will be covered in this lesson. A knowledge of such designs is of considerable value to a textile designer as he is able to recreate them and keep this traditional art alive.
11.2 Definition Definition: Designs that have existed over the ages in our textiles, arts, crafts, paintings, architecture are called traditional designs. Traditional designs are derived from flowers, birds, stems and leaves having a grape vine movement, fishes, shells, webs, animals and human figures.
11.3 Traditional Designs of India Traditional designs of India include mainly the following: • • • • • • • •
Butis, Butas and Bels Flowering tree or the Tree of Life Jaals Paisleys Mirrored or centre line designs Geometrical designs Continuous line designs Jaalis and tessellations 1
11.3.1 Butis, Butas and Bels A small motif on its own is called a Buti (Fig. 11.1). The buti can be floral, paisley or geometrical but is called a buti which means the smallest one. Butas are larger than butis and comprise of many elements, such as butis connected with vines and leaves etc. In other words it is an extended version of the buti. Bels are curving vines in a grapevine fashion with flowers, leaves or other elements.
Buti
Buti
Buta Buti
Buta
Bel
baola
Fig. 11.1
Self-check Questions 1.
How are Buti, Buta and Bels different from each other?
11.3.2 Flowering tree or the tree of life This is a much known and commonly used motif in various techniques and arts. The Tree of Life is an impression of a full grown tree, sometimes with wavy branches and interlocked stems with various types of foliage, different kinds of flowers, birds and animals (Fig.11. 2). It acts as a representation of a small world in itself, of shelter, growth and protection.
Fig. 11.2 Tree of Life
2
11.3.3 Jaals These are interconnected vines, sometimes directional but mostly nondirectional, all over in the pattern of laced floral butis, leaves and tendrils (Fig.11.3). These can be represented in various ways and are extensively used in textile design.
Fig. 11.3 Jaal
11.3.4 Paisleys This evergreen motif (Fig. 11.4) is still very widely used by textile and fashion designers. This is mainly inspired by the king of fruits – Mango, also known as ambi. Therefore, the paisley is also known as the ambi design and appears in embroideries, prints, mehndi art, rangolis, jewellery, architecture and so on. Recently, the brand tanishq launched the ‘aamra’ collection which was inspired by the paisley in various forms.
Fig. 11.4 Paisley designs
11.3.5 Mirrored or Centre Line Designs When a single design portion is repeatedly mirrored on the central axis and creates a design motif, these kinds of designs are called mirrored or centre line designs (Fig.11. 5). A more detailed account will be given in the next lesson.
Fig. 11.5 Mirrored designs
3
11.3.6 Geometrical Designs Designs made by a combination of various geometrical shapes, lines and curves are called geometrical designs. In Tantric art, traditionally we have various mandalas and other geometrical grid-based designs (Fig.11. 6).
Fig. 11.6 Geometrical design
11.3.7 Continuous Line Designs Designs created by the manipulation of a single line, continuously flowing to form a pattern are called continuous line designs. You might have come across some such designs while learning about scrawls in Unit 1 – Dots, Lines and Shapes. In the art forms of applying henna on the hands continuous line designs are created from a cone. Similarly, during festivals when we make alpanas and rangolis from rice paste, white and colored, we make continuous line art (Fig.11.7).
Fig. 11.7 Continuous line designs
These designs are very important when we do quilting so that there is continuity in the designed surface. Another example of continuous line designs are in the calligraphy strokes made by pen and brush. They are called flourish and are very important part of this art.
11.3.8 Jaalis and Tessellations In traditional Indian architecture jaalis are an important element. The havelis of Jaipur and Jaisalmer, mosques and havelis in Gujarat all have detailed jaali work in marble, wood and stone. These are based on grids and tessellations, about which you learned in the previous unit dealing with the Placement of Design (Fig.11. 8). 4
An amazing fact is that all the above eight (8) kinds of designs are present in the famous wonder of the world – Taj Mahal in Agra. It is an Indian monument and boasts of all the traditional designs mentioned above.
Fig.11.8 Jaalis
Self-check Questions 2.
Fill in the blanks: i) The paisley is also known as the ______ design and appears in ___________, ________, ________ _____, rangolis, _________, ___________ and so on. ii) The havelis of ________ and ___________, mosques and havelis in ___________ all have detailed jaali work in _________, _________ and __________.
11.4 Assignments 11.4.1 Class assignments i) Draw on quarter imperial cartridge sheets at least 2 examples of all the 8 traditional Indian designs mentioned above. For example, make 2 butis, 2 butas, 2 bel designs, 2 jaals, 2 tree of life, 2 paisley designs and so on.
11.5 Summing up In this lesson, you were introduced to the rich heritage of traditional designs of our country. The main points of the subject are enumerated below: •
Designs that have occurred for ages in the vocabulary of our textiles, arts, crafts, paintings, architecture are all traditional designs.
•
Traditional designs from India are mainly of eight types: i) Butis, Butas and Bels 5
ii) Flowering tree or the Tree of Life iii) Jaals iv) Paisleys v) Mirrored or centre line designs vi) Geometrical designs vii) Continuous line designs viii)Jaalis and tessellations
11.6 Possible Answers to Self-check Questions 1. A small motif on its own is called a Buti. The buti can be floral, paisley or geometrical but is called a buti which means the smallest one. Butas are larger than butis and comprise of many elements, such as butis connected with vines and leaves etc. Bels are curving vines in a grapevine fashion with flowers, leaves or other elements. 2. Fill in the blanks: i) The paisley is also known as the ambi design and appears in embroideries, prints, mehndi art, rangolis, jewellery, architecture and so on. ii) The havelis of Jaipur and Jaisalmer, mosques and havelis in Gujarat, all have detailed jaali work in marble, wood and stone.
11.7 Terminal Questions 1. Enumerate the traditional designs of India. 2. Explain the difference between bels and jaals. 3. State True / False i) ‘Tree Of Life’ acts as a representation of a small world in itself, of shelter, growth and protection. True / False ii) A large motif on its own is called a Buti. True / False 4. Write a brief note on ‘Mirrored or Centre Line Designs’. 5. Where are Jaalis and Tessellations found? 6. Name the famous historical monument that boasts of all the 8 kinds of designs embedded in its architecture.
6
11.8 References and Suggested Further Reading 1. Anonymous. 2006. The Complete Guide to Drawing and Painting. Quantum Publishing Ltd., London. 2. Betala, R. 2005. Design Comprehension and Visualization; Ane Books, New Delhi. 3. Gillow, J and Barnard, N. 1991. Traditional Indian Textiles. Thames and Hudson, London. 4. Mode, H. and Chandra, S. 1985. Indian Folk Art. Alpine Fine Arts Collection, Ltd., New York. 5. Yates, M. 1986. Textiles: A Handbook for Designers; W.W. Norton & Company, New York.
11.9 Glossary 1. Foliage:
Leaves
2. Interconnected:
Connect with each other
3. Manipulation:
Handle or control skillfully
4. Quilting:
To make two layers of fabric filled with padding
5. Tendrils:
A thread like part by which a climbing plant clings
6. Vocabulary:
Collection
7. Contemporary:
Modern
8. Tessellation:
Decorated with Mosaic
9. Expression:
The act of conveying feelings by words, gestures or pictures.
10. Visual:
Visible
7
8
9