ghl« - 15 Óuhd tot¤Â‹ cUth¡f© neª vª JUt Ïilbtëfis¥ g‰¿Í© Ëòw¡ fh£Áæ‹ K¡»a¤Jt¤ij¥ g‰¿Í© K¨ija ghl¦fëš f‰WŸnsh©. v¨j tot¤ÂY© ÏU js mik¥òfisÍ© Óuh¡Fjš mtÁa©. Ï¡fU¤Jfis Ï¥ghl© bfh§LŸsJ. 15.0 neh¡f¦fŸ Ï¥ghl¤ij m¿ªj ÃwF Ú®, bfhL¡f¥g£l v¨j¤ bjhF¥ÃY© neª vª mik¥òfS¡»ilna xU ešy Óuhd ãiyikia¡ bfh§L tUjš K¡»a© v‹gij m¿Åª. 15.1 K‹Diu Ïilbtëia¥ g‰¿a cŸfU¤J tot© mik¡f¥glΟs, ek¡FŸs Ëòw¡fh£Áæ‹ gu¥ig¡ F¿¡»wJ. v¨j cUth¡fèš eh© ÏU¡»nwh© v‹gij ÏJ bghW¤jJ. xU totik¥ghsª totik¡fΟs c‰g¤Â nk‰gu¥ig mo¥gilahf¡ bfh§l bt›ntW tiugl¦fis milahs© fhz nt§L©. mjdhš ÏÂYŸs Áw¥ghd ghªitia miltj‰F xU totik¥ghsU¡F ÏÂYŸs ÏilbtëÍ© tot¤Â‹ ÏU¥ÃlK© äfΩ mtÁa©. e© tot¦fŸ k‰W© fU¤JfS¡nf‰g Ïilbtëfë‹ ghf¦fis¥ g‰¿ Ï¥ghl¤Âš eh« f‰ngh©. 15.2 tot© mšyJ fU¤Jfë‹ mo¤js¤Âš neª k‰W© vª JUt Ïilbtëfis m¿¨J bfhŸsš. bfhL¡f¥g£l v¨j¤ bjhF¥ÃY© neª k‰W© vª mik¥òfS¡»ilna xU ešy Óuhd ãiyikia¡ bfh§LtUjš mtÁa©. ÃwFjh‹ ÏJ xU ešy tot¥ gu¥ghfΫ gh®it¡F mUikahd ÏlK« M»wJ. Ïilbtë, mik¥òfS¡»ilæš bfhL¡f¥gl nt§Lbk‹gJ äfΩ mtÁakhdJ. eh© bfh§LŸs fU¤JfisÍ© Mªt¤ ö§liyÍ© nkY© eh© bfhL¡fΟs ÏW cUth¡fè‹ ghªitiaÍ© fU¤ £l¦fS¡F Ïilnaahd Ïilbtë KobtL¡f¥L»wJ. bghJthd fU¤J¥go neª k‰W© vª JUt, Ï›éU tot¦fS¡F© rk K¡»a¤Jt© bfhL¤jhš äfΩ ÓuhdbthU bjhF¥ig cUth¡f ÏaY©. Mdhš ÏJ c§ikæš neªJUt¡ nfhLfŸ k‰W© tisÎfis¢ rhª¨jJ. nkY© mÂf, f§zhš fhQ© ÂU¤j§fS« njit¥gL«. mik¥Ã‰F© K‹ mik¥Ã‰F© rk Ïilbtë bfhL¡F© v§z© v¥bghGJ© ãfœtj‰»šiy. Áw¨j kf¤Jtkhd braY¡F, bgU¨j‹iknahL brê¥ghd xU fU¤J mšyJ mu§kidfshY© bršt¢ brê¥ghd NœãiyahY© M®t_£l¥g£l xU fU¤J¤ njit¥gL»wJ. Mfnt Ϫj tot« vG¥g¥g£l ãid¥Ã‰F V‰òilajhf ÏU¡f nt§L©. Ïij¥ nghynt Ϩj tot¦fëš ghu©gça ó ò£ofis Fiw¨j mséš (gl© 15.2M) neª vª JUt¦fS¡F rk Ïilbtë bfhL¤J mik¥gj‰fhf k£Lkšyhkš beU¡fkhf (gl© 15.1 m) Ïl© bg‰W KG tot Ïl¥gu¥igÍ© ãu¥òtj‰F¤ njit¥gl¡TL©. Ϩj brê¥ghd kf¤Jtkhd fU¤J xnu £lkhf (gl« 15.1Ï) äf¢ Áw¥ghfΫ jd¡nf éçth¡f« bfh©L«mªj¤ £lnk ÏW cUth¡fè‹ ika¤Âš (cjhuzkhf, xU bk¤ij ciw) Âif¡f |
it¡F© kf¤Jtkhd v§z¤ij¡ bfhL¥gj‰F© nghJkhdjhf Ïlkh‰w© bgw¡Tl ÏaY«.
Fig. 15.1A: Butis placed closely
gl« 15.1 m beU¡fkhf mikªj ò£ofŸ
Fig. 15.1B: Butis placed sparsely
Fig. 15.1C: One singular motif
gl« 15.1 M Fiw¨j mséš Ïl© bg‰w ò£ofŸ
gl« 15.1 Ï xnu jå¤j £l«
Ïnj bfhŸif e© berÎfëY© më¡f¥gL»wJ. cjhuzkhf, F#uh¤ ijaš ntiy¥ghLfëš x›bthU m¦Fy ÏilbtëÍ© if¥Ã‹dš ijaš ntiyfshš ãu¥g¥g£LŸsJ. (gl© 15.2 m) všyh é¤Âahrkhd mšyJ MªtäšyhJ ga‹gL¤jhkš bt‰¿lkhf cŸs¤ Jâ¥gu¥ig ãu¥òtj‰fhf nk‰bfh§l bjhluh»æU¡f¡ TL©. #hkthç‹ fhZÛça nkyh¡FfŸ Tl c‹djkhd Á¡fyhd tot¦fis¡ bfh©lit. nkY« KG Ïl¥gu¥ò© t§zä£l üšfëš beŒa¥g£L© bt›ntW £l¦fis beU¡fkhf mik¤J© CnlÍ© beŒa¥gL»wJ (gl© 15.2M) gŠrhË `òš¡fhç` k‰W© ghF fS© KGJ© ãu¥g¥g£l k‰bwhU berthF©. t§zä£L©, m¤Jâ¥gu¥Ã‹ KGtJkhd tot¦fnshL £l¦fshš ãu¥g¥g£L© òJ kz¥bg§â‰fhf b#hè¡F©, tskhd, ÅçaKŸs t©zkakhd ghªitia¡ bfhL¥gj‰F Ïiy brŒa¥gL»wJ. (gl© 15.2 Ï)
Fig. 15.2B: Kashmiri shawls
Fig. 15.2A: Gujarati embroidery
gl« 15.2 m F#uh¤Âfë‹ if¥Ã‹dš
Fig. 15.3C Bagh embroidery
gl« 15.2M fhZÛçaç‹ nkyh¡FfŸ
gl« 15.3 Ï ghF if¥Ã‹dš |
ijaš ntiy
ijaš ntiy
Mfnt, tot¦fŸ rçahd Kiw v‹gj‰»šiy vd eh© Twyh©. Mdhš xU r_f, tH¡f¤ÂYŸs k‰W© Ëòw¡fh£Áæš kd‹ vG¢Á M»aitfshš cUth¡f¥gL»wJ. KfyhyauJ berÎfë‹ fiyæY© £l¦fŸ ika¤Âš ne® vª JUt¦fëš rk Ïilbtë él¥g£LŸsij xUtª fhz ÏaY©. Ï›th¿U¡f, beU¡fkhd £l¦fŸ Ïl© bg‰WŸsJ. Ï›éj© Ïj‹ bgUäjK« kf¤JtK« btë¥gL»wJ. gl© 15.3 KfyhauJ berÎfŸ jâ¡if¡ nfŸéfŸ bt‰¿l¦fis ãu¥òf 1) bfhL¡f¥g£l vªj¤ bjhF¥ÃY« ---------k‰W© ---------mik¥ò fS¡»ilna xU ešy --------- bfh§L tUjš mtÁa©. 2) eh© bfh§LŸs ------, ---------- fU¤ £l§fs¡F Ïilnaahd Ïilbtë KobtL¡f¥gL»wJ. 15.3 gæ‰ÁfŸ 15.3.1 tF¥ò¥ gæ‰ÁfŸ 1) 16” x 16” bk¤ij ciw¡fhf xnu £l¤ij cgnah»¤J xU bjhF¥ò brŒf. £l¦fë‹ neª vª ÏilbtëfŸ rkkhf Ïl©bgw¢ brŒJ x‹W©, mo¥gu¥ò beU¡fkhd £l¦fŸ bfh§L k‰bwhU bk¤ijÍ© mik¤ÂLf. nkY©, KGtJ© é¤ÂahrkhŒ¡ fh£Áaë¥gij¡ fh§f 15.4 bjhF¤J mik¤jš Ï¥ghl¤Âš eh© m¿¨jt‰iw RU¡Fnth©. bfhL¡f¥g£l v¨j¤ bjhF¥ÃY© neª k‰W© vª mik¥òfS¡»ilna xU ešy Óuhd ãiyikia¡ bfh§LtUjš mtÁa©. eh© bfh§LŸs fU¤JfisÍ© Mªt¤ijÍ© nkY© eh© bfhL¡fΟs ÏW cUth¡fè‹ ghªitiaÍ© fU¤ £l¦fS¡F Ïilnaahd Ïilbtë KobtL¡f¥gL»wJ. bghJthd fU¤J¥go neª k‰W© vª JUt, Ï›éU tot¦fS¡F© rk K¡»a¤Jt© bfhL¤jhš äfΩ ÓuhdbthU bjhF¥ig cUth¡f ÏaY©. mik¥Ã‰F© K‹ mik¥Ã‰F© rk Ïilbtë bfhL¡f Ko¨J© mJ v¥bghGJ© ãfœtj‰»šiy. 15.5 jâ¡if édh¡fS¡fhd éilfŸ bt‰¿l¤ij óª¤Â brŒf. 1) bfhL¡f¥g£l vªj¤ bjhF¥ÃY« ne® k‰W© v® mik¥òfS¡»ilna xU ešy mik¥òfS¡»ilna xU ešy Óuhd ãiyikia¡ bfh©L tUjš mtÁa©. 2) eh© bfh§LŸs fU¤JfisÍ« M®t¤ijÍ« fU¤ £l§fS¡F Ïilnaahd Ïilbtë KobtL¡f¥gL»wJ. 15.6 ÏW édh¡fŸ 1) Ïilbtëia¥ Ãç¤jè‹ K¡»a¤Jt¤ij és¡Ff. |
2) t§z¦fisÍ© üšfisÍ© ga‹gL¤J© ϨÂahé‹, Âif¡f it¡F© ghªit¡fhf Á¡fyhd tot¦fŸ mik¡F© Áy if¥Ã‹dš ijaš ntiy¥ghLfis¥ bgaçLf. 3) rçahd éilfis¤ nj®bjL i) ---------š òš¡fhç if¥Ã‹dš ijaš ntiy¥ ghLfŸ brŒa¥gL»wJ. m) uh#«jh‹ M) t¦fhsnjr© Ï) gŠrh¥ <) eh¡óª 15.2 jftš F¿¥òfS© nk‰nfhŸfS© 1) g›dhå. Ï. 1982 ϨÂahé‹ my¦fhu tot¦fŸ k‰W© iféidfŸ o.Ã.jhuh¥bghçthyhé‹ kf‹fŸ k‰W© rfh¡fë‹ jå mik¥ò, _©ig.
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