beŒjš k‰w© beŒjè‹ mo¥gil k‰W© ãakkhd («lh‹lªL) JâfŸ m¿Kf« mÂfkhd Jâ tiffŸ üèèU¨J c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. (Áy tif JâfŸ ÏiHfëèU¨J neuoahf c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. ÏJ F¿¤J ghl© 9š étç¡f¥g£LŸsJ) Ïj‰F K‹ng étç¡f¥g£lgo, üšfshdJ, ãiyahd ÏiHfis x‹whf bjhF¤J© mšyJ bjhlª¢Áahd Ãybk‹£fshY©, tH¡fkhf mitfë‹ Ústh¡»š KW¡»id V‰gL¤Â x‹Wl‹ x‹W x£o¡ bfhŸs¢ brŒJ© üšfŸ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. é¤Âahrkhd gy têfëš JâfŸ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥g£lhY©, äfΩ Ãugykhd midtU« m¿ªj Jâ tif, berÎ JâahF«. berÎ JâahdJ, Ústh¡»YŸs üè‹ Ïil, Ïilna FW¡F üèid 90 0 o»ç nfhz¤Âš nfhª¤J Ëå Ïiz¡f¥gLtjhš cUth»wJ. Ús¥ngh¡»YŸs üšfŸ, Jâfë‹ Ústh¡»š mik¨ÂU¡F© (v‹£«), Mdhš FW¡F üšfŸ (á«) Jâfë‹ FW¡F th¡»š mjhtJ mfy th¡»š mik¨ÂU¡F©. berÎ beŒÍ© KiwfŸ F¿¤J©, berÎ tiffë‹ mo¥gil EQ¡f¦fŸ F¿¤J© Ϩj ghl¤Âš étç¡f¥g£LŸsJ. Ëd¥g£l JâfŸ, Jâfë‹ Ïu§lhtJ K¡»akhd tifahf cŸsJ. mitfŸtisa¦fSila (ÿ¥) üšfis FW¡F üšfŸ mšyJ Ústh¡»YŸs üšfŸ bršY© Âiræid neh¡» x‹W¡F x‹W nrª¤J Ëå Ïiz¡f¥g£L cUth¡f¥gL»wJ. ÏitfŸ F¿¤J mL¤jghl¤Âš éthÂ¥ngh«. Jâfë‹ _‹whtJ tif (V‰fdnt K‹ng F¿¥Ãl¥g£LŸsthW) beŒa¥glhj JâfshF©. ÏitfŸ beŒa¥gLtJäšiy mšyJ Ëd¥gLtJäšiy. Mdhš ÏiHfis mG¤Â(bgš£) mšyJ x‹Wl‹ x‹W f£o (nk£) bgU©ghY© xG¦fhd Kiwahf Ïšyhj ãiyæš JâfŸ jahç¡f¥gL»wJ. beŒa¥glhj JâfSl‹, Á¿a mséš tiy JâfŸ, #çif (ny«) k‰W© KW¡F üš Ko¢RfŸ (Ãiu£«) M»aitfS© jahç¡f¥gL»wJ. ÏitfŸ F¿¤J ghl© 9-š eh© f‰W¡ bfhŸsyh©. Ϩj¥ ghl¤Âš nkY© Áy äfΩ bghJthd ãakkhd JâfŸ _‹W mo¥gil berÎfë‹ mo¥gilæš ÃçÎ 7.3š RU¡fkhf étç¡f¥g£LŸsJ. étç¡f¥g£LŸs bgU©ghyhd JâfŸ, gU¤Âæid mo¥gilahf¡ bfh§L©, xU Áy Ïd¦fëš k£L© Ãs§£fis mo¥gilahf¡ bfh©L« (cjhuzkhf gU¤Â-ghèba«lª Ãs§L) mšyJ k‰w ÏiHfis Áš¡, cšy‹ mšyJ bra‰if ÏiHfshfΩ cŸsJ.
berÎ beŒÍ© KiwfŸ 1 m¿Kf F¿¥òfŸ Ïa¨Âu Ïa¡f Kiwfëš Ústh¡»YŸs ghÎ üiyÍ©, FW¡F th¡»YŸs CL üiyÍ© x‹Wl‹ x‹W nfhª¤J Ëå Ïiz¡f¥gL© berthdJ tH¡fkhf j¿fënyna brašgL¤j¥gL»wJ. Ϩj ghl¤Âš Kjyhtjhf berÎ beŒa¥gL© KiwfŸ F¿¤J©, j¿æYŸs gšntW ghf¦fŸ F¿¤J©, mitfë‹ brašghLfŸ F¿¤J© m¿¨J bfhŸsyh©. ÏJ äfΩ MHkhd k‰W© EQ¡fkhd jiy¥ghf ÏU¥gjhš, xU RU¡fkhd tuyhW k£L© ϦF bfhL¡f¥g£LŸsJ. Ïjid¤ bjhlª¨J j¿æš nk‰bfhŸs¥gL© beréš mo¥gil brašKiwfŸ F¿¤J© étç¡f¥g£LŸsJ. 1
beréid¥ g‰¿ m¿¨J bfhŸtj‰F K‹ghf, ϨÂahéš Jâ c‰g¤Â F¿¤J Áy òŸë étu¦fŸ bfhL¥gJ äfΩ ÃunahrdKŸsjhf ÏU¡F©. 2000-2001 M§oš ϨÂahéš 400 nfho rJu Û£lU¡F© mÂfkhf Jâ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥g£lJ. Ït‰¿š 63% Ïa¨Âu j¿æš c‰g¤Â brŒa¥g£lJ, 14% if¤j¿æš, 19% Ëdyhil Ãçéš, 4% äšfëY© c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. Jâ c‰g¤Â brŒtj‰fhf mik¡f¥g£l äšfŸ, äfΩ caª¨j ju¤ÂYŸs j¿fŸ mjhtJ Cil Ïšyhj (r£oš Ïšyhj) j¿fŸ ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. ÏU¥ÃD© äšfëš c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL© JâfŸ bkh¤j JâfŸ c‰g¤Âæš xU äf¢ Á¿a é»j¤Âš cŸsJ. if¤j¿ k‰W© éir¤j¿fë‹ K¡»akhd brašgL© ghf¦fë‹ brašghLfŸ Ïu§L j¿fëY© bgU©ghY© xnu khÂçahf cŸsd. berÎ beŒa¥gL© Kiwfis¥ bghW¤jtiu, eh© j¿æid¥ g‰¿ étç¥gnjhL mÂYŸs gšntW ghf¦fŸ v›thW brašg£L, bjhlª¨J Jâ c‰g¤Â brŒ»wJ v‹gijÍ© òç¨J bfhŸs Kay nt§L©.
2 berÎ beŒa¥gL© Kiw beŒa¥g£l JâfŸ j¿ v‹wiH¡f¥gL© xU Ïa¨Âu¤Âš c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. Jâ beŒtj‰Fça Mu©g f£l ntiy v‹dbtåš Ústh¡»YŸs (ghÎ üš) üšfis vL¤J¡ bfh§L, (ghÎ üyhdJ x‹W¡F x‹W Ïizahf nrfç¡f¥g£L Ó£ khÂç xU cUisæš R‰w¥g£oU¡F©) Ïjid j¿¡F kh‰Wtj‰F jahuhf it¤J¡ bfhŸs nt§L©. j¿æDila gšntW ghf¦fŸ k‰W© brašghLfŸ g‰¿ ÃwF étç¡f¥gL©. j‰nghJ gl¤Âš j¿æš bghU¤j¥g£LŸs ghÎ üšfë‹ Ã‹òw njh‰w© tiugl¤Âš bfhL¡f¥g£lik¡F ghª¥gj‰F äfΩ bjëthf ÏU¡f nt§L© v‹gnj neh¡fkhF©. ghÎ üš j¿æš bršY© ghij Ãunahrdkhd K¡»akhf F¿¤J¡ bfhŸs nt§oa x‹whF©. c§ikænyna, ghÎüš k‰W© CLüš Ïu§ilÍ« Ïil Ïilna nrª¤J x‹Wl‹ x‹W Ëå Ïiz¤J¡ bfhŸS© berÎ K‹òw¤Âš brŒa¥gL© bghGJ, berÎ beŒa¥g£l Jâ, c‰g¤Â brŒa¥g£L xU Jâ nuhyçš R‰w¥gL»wJ. Ϩj f£l¤Âš, j¿æYŸs ghéš, ghÎ üš v›thW ãu¥g¥g£LŸsJ v‹gij¥ g‰¿ òç¨J bfhŸs¥glnt§oaJ mtÁakhF©. Ïj‰F berÎ beŒa¥gl nt§oa Jâæ‹ (msÎ) gu¥gsÎ v›tsÎ v‹W m¿¨ÂU¡f nt§oaJ äfΩ mtÁakhF©. cjhuz¤Â‰F 400 Û£lª ÚsKŸs Jâæš 2400 üšfë‹ mfy¤Âš Jâ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gl nt§L© v‹W vL¤J¡ bfhŸs nt§L©. ghÎ Õäš bghW¤j¥g£LŸs »çš «lh‹oš, 200 ghË« k£Lnk xU neu¤Âš bghW¤j têtif brŒa¥g£LŸsJ v‹gijÍ© m¿¨J bfhŸs nt§L©. Ϩj nk‰F¿¥Ã£l msÎfëš berÎ beŒtj‰F ghÎ üš 200 v§â¡if (400 Û£lª Ús©) ghÎ Õäš Ó£ khÂç R‰¿ it¤J¡ bfhŸs nt§L©. Ϩj brŒyKiwahdJ 12 Kiw ÂU©g¤ ÂU©g brŒJ ghÎ Õik jahª brŒJ bfhŸs nt§L©.
2
Fig. 7.1 Process of Interlacement or weaving
berÎ beŒa¥gL© Kiw nk‰f§lthW fz¡»£L ghÎ Õ© jahç¤j ÃwF, fhèahf cŸs ghË«fëš ghÎüšfŸ, it§o¦ bkÁ‹ _ykhf R‰¿ it¤J¡ bfhŸs nt§L©. üšfŸ R‰w¥g£l ghË«fis »çš «lh‹oš bghU¤j nt§L©. jå üšfis x›bthU ghËìèU¨J© vL¤J ghÎ Õik neh¡» mid¤J üšfisÍ© Ãshdª Ó£ tot¤Âš brY¤j nt§L©. j‰bghGJ 400Û Ús¤Âš 200 üšfŸ mfy¤Âš ghÎ Õäš R‰w¥g£LŸsJ. Ïnj Kiwæid ÂU©g ÂU©g 12 Kiw brŒJ ghÎ Õäš KGikahf ãu¥g¥g£LŸs ãiyæš j¿¡F kh‰Wtj‰F ghÎ Õ© jahuhf cŸsJ. Ïjid brŒtj‰F K‹ghf, tH¡fkhd bjhêš Kiwfis brašgL¤j nt§L©. mjhtJ ghÎ üè‹ msthdJ x‹Wl‹ x‹W x£o¡ bfhŸS© Kiwæš mik¤J mitfŸ c‰g¤Â rka¤Âš äfΩ Rygkhf Xl¡ Toajhf ghª¤J¡ bfhŸs nt§L©. mL¤J tU»w Ïa¡f KiwfŸ äf e‹whf tçfshš tiua¥g£l tiu gl¤Â‹ _ykhf if¤j¿ Ïa¨Âu¤Âš Âw¨j ghÎ üš mik¨JŸs njh‰w© fh§Ã¡f¥g£LŸsJ. gl¤Âš (nkY© m¿¨J bfhŸs go¡f nt§oa ò¤jf© v§ 1) j¿æ‹ gšntW ghf¦fë‹ g£oaš bfhL¡f¥g£LŸsJ. berÎ beŒa¥gL© éj© F¿¤J gl¤Âš cjéÍl‹ Ï¥bghGJ étç¡f¥g£LŸsJ.
line diagram of an open warp
tçfshš tiua¥g£l tiugl© Âw¨j ghÎ üš njh‰w©
3
A) bglš B) bglš C) nkšf¥Ã (òšè) D) ËšL E) ËšL F) ghÎ Õ« G) ng¡bu°£ H) Ä°uhL I) Ä° uhL J) ߣ K) »sh¤ bgš L) Ãu©£ bu°£ M) Jâ Õ« N) gš»u© O) bõ£ Kjyhtjhf, üšfŸ ãu¥g£l ghÎ Õ© ‘F’ ãiy¡F kh‰w nt§L©. ghthdJ ng¡bu°£ ‘G’¡F nkyhf vL¤J¢ br‹w, Ä« uhLfŸ ‘H & L’ ¡F x‹W é£L x‹W nkY© ÑGkhf, Ëš£ìYŸs ‘D & E’fŸ têahf brY¤j nt§L© Ëš£« MdJ Ahªd« v‹wiH¡f¥gL©, Ëš£ Ãnuäš bghU¤j¥gl nt§L©. ghÎ üšfshdJ ÃwF ç£ ‘J’ š fhz¥gL© g‰fŸ (Ó¥ò ngh‹w mik¥òilaJ) têahf »sh¤ bgš ‘K’¡F brY¤j nt§L©. Jâæ‹ filÁ á mšyJ CLüš cça Ïl¤Âš ߣ it¡»wJ) ÃwF ghÎ üš Ãu§£ bu«£ ‘L’ _ykhf »sh¤ Õ« ‘M’ I mil»wJ. bglš ‘A & B Ïu§L© ‘0’ v‹w gš»uäš bghU¤j¥g£LŸsJ. Ϩj bglšfŸ nkY© ÑG© brštjdhš, Ëš£° Ïu©lhf ÃçªJ , Ïu©L nyaªfshf Âw¡f¥gL»wJ. x‹W nkyhf brš»wJ. x‹W ÑHhf brš»wJ. Ϩj Ïu§L¡Fäilæš CLüiy brUf nt§L©. bglš ‘A’ ÑnH mG¤J« bghGJ, fæuhš Ïiz¡f¥g£l Ëš£ ‘D’ mo¥gFÂæYŸs nyauhf cUth»w neu¤Âš, Ëš£ ‘E’ nkšgFÂæYŸs nyauhf cUth»wJ. Ï›thwhf bõ£ nknyÍŸs f¥Ã (òšè) cjéÍl‹ cUth¡f¥gL»wJ. FW¡F üiy brU»a ÃwF (á v‹wiH¡f¥gL»wJ) ‘bõ£’il _oél nt§L©. ÃwF Ïu§lhtJ ‘á’if (FW¡Füš) brU»aÎl‹, bglš ‘B ia ÑnH mG¤J©bghGJ Ïu§lhtJ ‘bõ£’ cUth¡f¥gL»wJ ‘A & B M»a Ïu©L bglšfisÍ© x‹W kh‰w x‹¿ ÑnH mG¤Â Ãis‹ berÎ (Ëdª étç¡f¥g£LŸsJ) cUth¡f¥gL»wJ. fæWfshš mšyJ cnyhf xaªfshš cUth¡f¥g£l Ëš£«fis bgça v§â¡ifæš vL¤J, xU Ãnuäš bghU¤j nt§L©. Ϩj bkh¤j bjhF¥Ãid (Ëš£ rh¥£ilÍ© nrª¤J) Ahªd« v‹wiH¡f¥gL»wJ. é¤Âahrkhd berÎ tiffëš, Ahªd«fë‹ v§â¡if bgUkséš é¤Âahr¥gL©, mjhtJ Fi¨j g£r© 2 v§â¡if Ãis‹ berÎ tif¡F ÏU¡f nt§L©. Mdhš Ϫj v©â¡if nkY« mÂfkhfΫ fhz¥gL«. (mÂf g£rkhf 40 Ah®d° tiu ÏU¡F© v‹W ò¤jf¦fëš F¿¥Ãl¥g£LŸsJ) Jâ c‰g¤ÂahdJ _‹W Kj‹ikahd k‰W© Ïu§L Ïu§lhtjhd Ïa¡FKiwfis bfh©ljhF«. Kj‹ikahd Ïa¡F KiwfŸ:
4
(i)
(ii) (iii)
bõ£o¦: ÏJ ghÎ Ó£oid Ïu§L ghf¦fshf Ëš£ rh¥£ cjéÍl‹ Ãç¡f¥gL© brašKiwahF©. x›bthU rh¥£oY© Ëš£fŸ FG¡fshf bghU¤j¥g£LŸsJ. x›bthU Ëš£oY© cnyhf¤Âyhd xU f§QŸs (Ëš£ f§) xaª bghU¤j¥g£LŸsJ. Ϩj f§ têahf ghÎ üš ÏG¡f¥gL»wJ. beréš brŒa¥gL© oirD¡F V‰wgo ÂU©g ÂU©g ghÎ üšfis Ïu§L, _‹W mšyJ I¨J ËšL rh¥£fëš v›thW ÏG¡f nt§L© v‹gij ö¡F© £l¤Â‰F V‰wthW eh© brŒa nt§L©. Ëš£ rh¥o‹ miré‹ bghGJ x›bthU rh¥oY© bghU¤j¥g£LŸs ghÎ üšfŸ nkY© ÑGkhf mirÍ« bghGJ, ghÎ Ó£lhdJ Ïu©L nya®fshf (mL¡Ffshf) Ãç¡f¥gL»wJ. Ï›thwhf ‘bõ£’ cUth¡f¥gL»wJ. Ủ : ÏJ CL üš (FW¡F üš) fis õ£oš cjéÍl‹ ‘bõ£’o‰F Ïilæš it¡f¥gL© brašKiwahF©. Õ£o¦ (mo¤jš): Ϩj brašKiwæš, Ó¥ò ngh‹w njh‰wKila ßL têahf CLüš ‘bõ£’L¡FŸ ÏG¡f¥g£L filÁ FW¡F üš ÛJ it¡f¥gL»wJ. Ϩj brašKiw ‘»sh¤ bgš’ v‹W© miH¡f¥gL»wJ. xU Ãnuäš bghU¤j¥g£LŸs ‘ßoid’ ‘«ny’ v‹W© Áy neu¦fëš ng£l‹ v‹W© TWthªfŸ.
Ïu©lhtJ Ïa¡F KiwfŸ (i) by£M¥ (éLé¤jš): berÎ ÕkhdJ brašgL© bghGJ, ÕäèU¨J ghÎ üš éLé¡f¥gLtij f£L¥gL¤J»wJ. berÎ Õä‹ Ï¨j éLé¡F© Ïa¡f¤Âid ‘by£ M¥’ v‹W TWthªfŸ. (ii) nl¡ M¥ (vL¤jš) : ãiwa r¡fu¦fŸ bghU¤j¥g£LŸs nuhyhdJ Jâæid vL¤J, »sh¤ nuhš ÛJ mL¡» it¡»wJ. Ïjid ‘vbkç nuhš’ v‹W TWthªfŸ.
beré‹ mo¥gil berÎ beŒÍ© bghGJ ghÎ üšfS© CL üšfS© Ïil Ïilna x‹Wl‹ x‹W nrª¨J Ëå Ïiz¡f¥gL»wJ. berthdJ gšntW têfëY©, é¤Âahrkhd beŒjš tiffëš brŒa¥gL»wJ. berthdJ ÂU©g ÂU©g brŒa¥gL© mséid bghW¤J (çÕ£ msÎ) mj‹ j‹ikfŸ mik»wJ. berÎ beŒtj‰F mo¥gil njitfŸ v‹dbtåš Fiw¨j g£r v§â¡ifæš ghÎ üšfŸ k‰W© CLüšfŸ ‘çÕ£’ brŒt‰F njitahF©. cjhuzkhf Ãis‹ beré‰F 2 ghÎfŸ k‰W© 2 CLüšfŸ ÏU¨jhš nghJkhdJ £éš beré‰F 3 ghÎfŸ k‰W© 3 CLüšfS©, rh£o‹ beré‰F Fi¨j g£r© 5 ghÎfŸ k‰W© 5 CL üšfŸ njitahF©. Ϩj _‹W mo¥gil berÎ KiwæèU¨Jjh‹ bgça v©â¡ifæš JâfŸ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. berÎ KiwfŸ F¿¤J Ï¥bghGJ éçthf gh®¡fyh«. 1 Ãis‹ berÎ Ãis‹ berthdJ, berÎ beŒjè‹ äfΩ vëjhd KiwahF©. Ïš Ïu§L Ahªd« k£Lnk ÏU¨jhY© berÎ brŒa Ko»wJ. xU Ahªd« ghÎ Ó£oYŸs Ïu£il¥ gil e©gª üšfisÍ©, Ïu§lhtJ Ahªd« x‰iw¥ gil e©gª üšfisÍ© f£L¥gL¤J»wJ. Kjyhtjhf, Kjš Ahªd« Ïu£il¥il e©gª üšfis ö¡F©bghGJ, õ£oyhdJ cŸns br‹W xU CLüiy EiH¡»wJ. ÂU©ò© bghGJ, Ïu§lhtJ Ahªd« x‰iw¥gil e©gª üiy 5
EiH¡»wJ. Ï›thwhf Ãis‹ beréš x‹W¡bfh‹W ÏilÏilna Ëå Ïiz¡F© brayhdJ kh¿ kh¿ x›bthU mL¤j mL¤j üèš brŒa¥gL»wJ. Ï›thW c‰g¤Â brŒa¥g£l Jâæ‹ nkšghfK© Ë ghfK© xnu khÂçahd njh‰w¤Jl‹ ÏU¡F©. Ãis‹ berÎ berÎ beŒa¥g£l üšfë‹ mik¥ò tiu gl¤Âš fh§Ã¡f¥g£LŸsJ. Warp
4 3 2 Weft
1 1
2
3
4
Plain Weave Structure
Ãis‹ beré‹ mik¥ò njh‰w© nk‰f§l mik¥Ãid »uh¥ ng¥gçš gl© 7.4-š fh§Ã¡f¥g£LŸsJ. Ϩj gl¤Âš »uh¥Ãš Ús¥ngh¡F tçiræYŸs fhy¦fŸ ghÎ üšfshF© (thª¥/v‹£«) ÏitfŸ 1,2,3,4 v‹W e©gçl¥g£LŸsJ. FW¡F th¡»YŸs fhy¦fŸ CL üšfŸ (bt¥£/á«) MF©. ÏitfŸ 1,2,3,4 v‹w e©gçl¥g£LŸsJ. r©Ãujhakhf ghÎ üšfŸ CLüšfS¡F nkyhf bršY© v‹gjhš, ghÎ üšfŸ fU¥ò rJukhf F¿¡f¥g£LŸsJ. ghÎ üšfŸ CL üšfS¡F moæš bršY© Ïl¦fëš fhèahf (btŸis rJu©) él¥g£LŸsJ. Ãis‹ beréš, ghÎ e©gª 1, CLe©gª 1-¡F nkš brš»wgoahš fU¥ò fyª bfhL¡f¥g£LŸsJ. mL¤J CL e©gª 2¡F moæš brš»wgoahš fhèahf él¥g£LŸsJ. mL¤J CL e©gª 3¡F nkš brš»wgoahš fU¥ò fyª bfhL¡f¥g£LŸsJ. mL¤J CL e©gª 4¡F moæš brš»wgoahš, fhèahf él¥g£LŸsJ. Ïnj ngh‹W bjhlª¨J ghÎ e©gª 1 br‹W bfh§nl ÏU¡»wJ. Ï¥bghGJ ghÎ e«g® 2-š nk‰f§l braèid vÂçilahf kh‰¿, CL e©gª 2èU¨J ËDtij Mu©Ã¡f nt§L©. ÏJ CL e«g® 2-¡F nkyhf brštjhš fU¥ò fyª f£l©, CL e©gª 3¡F moæš brštjhš fhèahf f£l©, CL e©gª 4¡F nkyhf brštjhš fU¥ò fyª f£l© bfhL¡f¥g£LŸsJ. Ϩj brašKiw bjhlª¨J brŒa¥gL»wJ. Ϩj »uhÚ, ghÎ üš k‰W© CL üšfŸ Ëd¥g£LŸsij 2 ghÎ üš 2 CL üš _ykhf és¡f¥g£LŸsJ. Ïnj Kiwæid ÂU«g ÂU«g kWgoÍ« bjhlª¨J brŒJ Jâ cUth¡f¥gL»wJ. Ãis‹ beré‹ mik¥ò äfΩ f¢Ájkhf ÏU¡»wgoahš, Ϩj berÎ Kiwna, berÎ beŒtj‰F mÂfkhf ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ.
2£éš berÎ £éš berÎ beŒtj‰F Fiw¨j g£r© 3 ghÎ (v‹£«) k‰W© 3 CL (á«) ÏU¨jhšjh‹ Ϩj berÎ brŒa KoÍ©. Ϩj berÎ mik¥Ã‹ é¤Âahr¤Âid vª _iyfis¢ nrª¡»w neªnfhL (la¡dš)fshš gl© 7.5-š fh§Ã¡f¥g£LŸsJ. 6
äfΩ vëjhd £éš c§lh¡F© KiwahdJ v‹dbtåš, FW¡F üš, Ïu§L ghÎ üšfis f¨J mL¤j‹ ÑHhf¢ brš»wJ. Ϩj brašKiw Û§L© ÂU©g ÂU©g mL¤j ‘á’»Y© brŒa¥gL»wJ. Mdhš fl¨J brštjhtJ, xU ghΡF ÏlJ g¡f© mšyJ tyJ g¡fkhf bršy nt§L©. £éšfëYŸs CL üšfis él ãiwa ghÎ üšfŸ Jâfë‹ nkš Kf¤Âš bjç¨jhš ghÎ Kf© (thª¥ng«) v‹W©, CL üšfŸ mÂfkhf ÏU¨jhš CLKf© (bt¥£ ng«) v‹W© miH¡f¥gL»wJ.
Twill Weave Structure
£éš berÎ mik¥ò njh‰w© ϦF ghÎ k‰W© CLfis x‹W¡ bfh‹W Ëå nfhª¡F© KiwahdJ Ïu§L tiffëš k£Lnk brŒa ÏaY© vd¥ij ÑnH fh§Ã¡f¥g£LŸsJ. mjhtJ (i) 2 nkš 1 Ñœ (ii)1 nkš 2 Ñœ Ϩj nk‰fhQ© brašKiw _ykhf eh© bgW© £éš« mik¥òfŸ: 1) tyJ if £éš« 2 nkš 1 Ñœ mšyJ 1 nkš 2 Ñœ 2) ÏlJ if £éš« 2 nkš 1 Ñœ mšyJ 1 nkš 2 Ñœ
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Left Hand Twill
gl© 7.6 k‰W© gl© 7.7 tyJ if £éš«
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nk‰f§l òŸë étu¦fëèU¨J, £éš« çÕ£ KiwahdJ 3 ghÎ k‰W© 3 CL üšfëš Ko¡f¥g£LŸsJ v‹gJ äfΩ bjëth»wJ. gl¤Âš Ϩj nfhLfshdJ ÏlJ g¡f mo¥gFÂfëèU¨J tyJ g¡f nkš gF neh¡» brš»wJ. Ϩj ‘£éš’ tyJ if £éš v‹W miH¡f¥gL»wJ. vª _iyfis¢ nrª¡»w nfhlhdJ (la¡dš iy‹«) tyJ g¡f mo¥gFÂæèU¨j ÏlJ g¡f nkš gF neh¡» brš»wJ Ϩj £éš ÏlJ if £éš v‹W miH¡f¥gL»wJ.
Right Hand Twill
ÏlJ if £éš nk‰f§l Ïu§L berÎfëY© mjhtJ Ãis‹ k‰W© £éš, mL¤j x¤ÂU¡»w mU»YŸs ghÎ üš, x‹Wl‹ x‹W Ëd Mu©Ã¡F© bghGJ, xU rJu¤Âid jh§o brš»wJ v‹gij »uh¥Ãš fhzyh©. Ϩj rJu¤Âid jh§o bršY© ãfœéid ‘«bl¥Ã¦ e©gª’ v‹wiH¡f¥gL»wJ.
3 rh£O‹ berÎ rh£O‹ v‹gJ xU tif JâahF©. Ïj‹ nkš gu¥ò gsgs¥ghfΩ, Ë gF lšyhfΩ mik¨ÂU¡F©. rh£O‹ beréš ghÎ üšfë‹ M¡f© mÂf¥goahfΟs berΤ bjhêš EQ¡f© fhz¥gL»wJ. mš Fiw¨j msÎ ÏilÏilna nfhª¤J ËDtj‰F v¤jid ghÎfŸ njit v‹gij ã®zæ¡f¥gL»wJ. (gl« 7.10-š fh§Ã¡f¥g£LŸsJ)
Fig.rh£O‹ 7.10 Sateen Weave berÎ
rh£O‹ berΤ Jâfëš äfΩ mÂf¥goahd gsgs¥òl‹ fhz¥gLtj‰F Jâfëš mÂf mséš fhz¥gL© ‘ònsh£«’ fhuzkhF©. ‘ònsh£«’ v‹gJ beŒjè‹ nghJ éLg£LŸs, mjhtJ CL üšfë‹ nkš bršY© ghÎ üšfëš mšyJ ghÎ üšfë‹ nkš bršY© CL üšfë‹ nkš 8
fhz¥gL»w üšfshF©. ònsh£« JâfS¡F gsgs¥ò j‹ikæidÍ©, äUJ¤ j‹ikæidÍ© ãiwa Ïd¦fS¡F më¡»wJ. Ϩj berÎ Kiw¡F Fiw¨jJ 5 n#ho ghÎ üšfŸ k‰W© 5 n#ho CLüšfŸ njitahF©. berÎ beŒa¥gL© bghGJ Ñœ¡f§l _‹w mo¥gil ãak¦fis fil¥Ão¡f nt©L«. (i) bkh¤j© v¤jid e©gª rh¥£oš rh£O‹ berÎ beŒa¥gl cŸsnjh m¤jid v§â¡ifæyhd n#ho e©gªfŸ ÏU¡FkhW njªÎ brŒJ vL¤J¡ bfhŸs nt§L©. cjhuzkhf, 8 (v‹£) ghÎ rh£O‹ v‹W vL¤J¡ bfh§lhš, 8 rh¥£ njitahF©. Mifahš n#hofshdJ 1 k‰W© 7, 2 k‰W© 6, 3 k‰W© 5,4 k‰W© 4 Mf ÏU¡F©. (ii) jh§o («bl¥Ã¦ e©gª) bršy nt§oa e©gª 1 Mfnth mšyJ 1-¡F Fiwthfnth, bkh¤j rh¥oš ÏU¡f¡ TlhJ. mjhtJ 8-1=7 (Ϫj Ïd¤Âš) (iii) n#ho v§â¡ifæ‹ kÂ¥ò, bkh¤j rh¥£Lfë‹ v§â¡ifæid bgU¡F© mšyJ bgU¡f¥gL© (factor) e«guhf ÏU¡f¡TlhJ. mjhtJ («bl¥Ã¦ e©gª) jh§o¢ bršY© e©gª 2,4 k‰W© 6 Mf ÏU¡f¡TlhJ. bkh¤j© v£L rh¥£fŸ rh£o‹ berÎ beŒtj‰F ÏU¡F© g£r¤Âš, Ïu§L tiffëš k£Lnk berÎ nk‰bfhŸs ÏaY©. mjhtJ («bl¥Ã¦ e©gª) jh§o¢ bršY© e©gª 3 Mfnth (gl© 7.11) mšyJ 5 Mfnth (gl© 7.12) k£Lnk ÏU¡F«.
Left: Weft face, Right: Warp face
«bl¥Ã¦ e©gª 3 rh£O‹ «bl¥Ã¦ e©gª 3 rh£O‹ ÏlJ: bt¥£ Kf«, tyJ: th®¥ Kf«
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Sateen with Stepping No. 5
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Satin with Stepping No. 5 Left: Weft face, Right: Warp face
«bl¥Ã¦ e©gª 5 rh£O‹ «bl¥Ã¦ e©gª 5 rh£O‹ ÏlJ : bt¥£ Kf«, tyJ: th®¥ Kf«. Ïnj khÂç, 5 thª¥ k‰W© 5 bt¥£ ÏU¡F© g£r¤Âš rh£O‹ berÎ beŒa¥gL© nghJ, «bl¥Ã¦ e©gª 2 mšyJ 3 Mf ÏU¡F© v‹gJ nk‰F¿¥Ã£l 3 ãak¦fë‹ mo¥gilæš bjça tU»wJ. 5 v‹£ (thª¥) Jâfë‹ mik¥ò gl© 7.13 k‰W© gl© 7.14-š ÑnH fh§Ã¡f¥g£LŸsJ. bt¥£ Kf¤ njh‰wKŸs rh£o‹, rh£OŸ v‹W© thª¥ Kf¤ njh‰wKŸsJ rh£O‹ v‹W© miH¡f¥gL»wJ. Mdhš r¨ijæš bt¥£ Kf¤ njh‰wKŸs berÎ mÂfkhf ga‹gL¤j¥gLtjhš, rh£o‹ berÎ / Jâ v‹W Ïašghf 5 End Satin/Sateen brhšy¥gL»wJ. 5
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Stepping Number 3
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Stepping Number 2
Sateen (Weft Face)
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Stepping Number 2
Satin (Warp Face) Fig. 7.13 (Top) and Fig. 7.14 (Bottom)
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°bl¥Ã§ e«g® 3 °bl¥Ã§ e«g® 2 gl© 7.13 rh£O‹ (bt¥£ Kf©) gl© 7.14 rh£O‹ (thª¥ Kf©)
Áy ãakkhd JâfŸ gšntW uf thçahd JâfŸ bgUkséš Ï¨Âahéš c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. ϨÂaªfë‹ ntW ghLila g§ghLfŸ, gH¡f tH¡f¦fŸ, k‰W© ehfßf© M»aitfis fU¤Â‰ bfh§L, mj‰nf‰wthW Jâ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. gšntW gFÂfëYŸs k¡fŸ, gšntW éjkhd Jâfis mâtš ϨÂahé‰F Ïizahf cyf¤Âš ntW v¦F©»ilahJ v‹W Twyh©. gšntW uf¦fis c‰g¤Â brŒtj‰F mo¥gilahf ÏU¡F© beŒjèš kh‰w¦fis V‰gL¤Â, mjhtJ ng‹Á üšfŸ, fyª üšfŸ, çtª« KW¡F üšfŸ,(vªkiwahd KW¡F üšfŸ) k‰W© my¦fhu ntiy¥ghLfshd rhank‰Wjš m¢ÁLjš, ó ntiy brŒjš (v©¥uhŒlç) ngh‹witfis V‰gL¤Â é¤Âahrkhd JâfŸ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ.
1 Ãis‹ berÎ JâfŸ r¨ijæš »il¡f¡Toa Ãis‹ berÎ Jâfë‹ Áy bgaªfŸ Ë tUkhW cŸsJ. Ó£o§ yh‹ k«è‹ gh¥è‹ nf‹t« nf«bk‹£ M®f©o nf«Ãç¡ rh«¥nu »§fh« thæš #h®b#£ Ágh‹ %Ãah Ϩj JâfŸ mid¤J© x‹W¡ bfh‹W é¤Âahrkhf ÏU¥gj‰F fhuzbk‹dbtåš, mséš (jokåš), fyª mšyJ thª¥ k‰W© bt¥£ üèš cŸs KW¡Ffëš cŸs ntWghLfshF©. Ãis‹ berÎ _y« jahç¡f¥g£l Jâfëš bgU©ghyhdit gU¤Â JâfshF©. ÏJ F¿¤J Ï¥bghGJ gh®¡fyh«. Ó£o¦ v‹gJ Ãis‹ beréš jahç¡f¥g£l Ûoa© Kjš mÂf vilÍŸs Jâ. Ϩj Jâ Å£L cgnahf¤Â‰Fça j£LK£L rhkh‹fS¡Fça ciwfŸ, gL¡if éç¥òfŸ ngh‹witfS¡F ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. bkšèa Ó£l¦ JâfŸ, gU¤Â-ghèba°l® Ïu©L« Ãs§£ brŒJ beŒa¥gL»wJ. 11
yh‹ xU bkšèa vilFiwthf cŸs Jâ. Ïjid c‰g¤Â brŒÍ© bghGJ Á¿jsÎ éiw¥ghfΫ (°o¥ghf), ko¥ò fiyahj j‹ikÍilajhF©. c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. cilfŸ, Ãbsh« k‰W© if¡F£il jahç¡f ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. Ïj‹ mik¥Ãš 30 x 36 v‹£« / á« xU br.Û Jâæš mik¨ÂU¡F©. k«è‹, FiwthdJ Kjš Ûoa© vil tiu cila, éiw¥ghd, Ãë¢ brŒa¥glhj, ntiy¥ghL óª¤Âailahj berÎ JâahF©. Mil totikk¥ghs®fS¡Fça (oird®) khÂçfS¡F ÏJ ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. ntiy¥ghL óª¤Âail¨JŸs k«è‹ JâfŸ Ó£fS¡F©, gªåÁ¦fS¡F© (nki#, eh‰fhèfS¡F©) ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. gU¤Â k£Lä‹¿ Áš¡ k‰W© Xªr«lªL üšfshY© k«è‹ Jâ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. gh¥è‹, bkšèa thª¥ k‰W© jokdhd bt¥£ üšfshš Ãis‹ berÎ _y© beŒa¥g£l Ûoa© JâahF©. Ïj‹ K¡»akhd j‹ik v‹dbtåš bt¥£ Âiu neh¡» eu©ò ngh‹w äf bkšèa nfhL ÏU¥gJ nghš njh‹W©. gh¥è‹ Jâ beré‰F äf mÂf mséyhd bkªÁiu«L gU¤Â ga‹gL»wJ. mid¤J gh¥è‹ JâfS© ntiy¥ghL óª¤Â brŒa¥g£L, Ãu« brŒa¥g£L fhz¥gL©.ÏJ ghthilfŸ, ig#hkh¡fŸ, Ãbsh« ngh‹wit cUth¡Ftj‰F ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. ÏÂYŸs berÎ üšfë‹ mik¥ò 48 v‹£«/24 á« xU br.Û gu¥Ãš fhz¥gL©. nf‹t« v‹gJ mÂf vilÍŸs mlª¤Âahf beŒa¥g£l Ãis‹ rh©gš ãw (ntiy¥ghL óª¤Â brŒa¥glhj) JâahF©. gâ neu¤Âš mâÍ© cilfŸ, F¡»w nghJ mâÍ© N£ (#©¥ N£) k‰W© bjhê‰rhiyfS¡Fça JâfŸ jahç¡f ÏJ ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. gU¤Â jéu bA©¥, rzš ÏiHfŸ f£l nf‹t« jahç¡f ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. Ïj‹ mik¥ò : 10-20 v‹£« / 10-16 á« xU br.Û. gu¥Ãš fhz¥gL©. nf«bk‹£, Ãis‹ beréš jahç¡f¥g£l JâahF©. Ïš thª¥ k‰W© bt¥£oš KW¡FfŸ äfäf¡ Fiwthfnt ÏU¡F©. ÏJ gªåÁ¦, ó ijaš ntiy (v©ÃuhŒlç), nlß èd‹ ngh‹wit cUth¡f ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. Ïj‹ mi¥ò: v‹£« /á« 21 x 25br.Û gu¥Ãš Mªf§o, Fiw¨j vil KWfyhd (»ç«¥), fy¥g‰w, gsgs¡F© btŸis fyª gU¤Â JâahF©. ÏJ bkšèa thª¥ k‰W© bt¥£ üšfis ga‹gL¤Â c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. ÏJ énrõkhf urhad Kiwæš óª¤Â(Ãå«) brŒa¥gL»wJ. mâtj‰Fça MilfŸ cUth¡Ftj‰F ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. nf©Ãç¡, äUJthd, bk‹ikahd, beU¡fkhf, f¢Ájkhf beŒa¥g£l JâahF©. ϤJâæ‹ nkš gu¥Ãš gsgs¥ò (irå¦) më¡f¡Toa éjkhf ntiy¥ghL ó®¤Â brŒa¥g£LŸsJ. ÏJ mâtj‰Fça MilfŸ cUth¡Ftj‰F©, FH¨ijfŸ MilfŸ, nlÚ èd‹ ngh‹wit cUth¡Ftj‰F© ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. Ïj‹ mik¥ò 38 v‹£«/br.Û. k‰W© 32 á«/br.Û. rh©¥nu, Ãis‹, Ûoa© Kjš mÂfkhd vil bfh§l beŒa¥g£l JâahF©. fyª thª¥ k‰W© btŸis bt¥£ ϤJâ beŒtj‰F ga‹gL¤j¥g£LŸsJ. ÏJ Ãis‹, nfhLfŸ k‰W© f£l¦fŸ oir‹ bfh§ljhf Tl c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. ÏJ ntiy neu M£fŸ, ntiyæ‹ nghJ cL¥ò¡F nkš mâa¡ Toa Mil (Xtuhš) 12
M§fS¡fhd N£fŸ ngh‹wit cUth¡f ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ (blå© Jâ Ϩj tifahf ÏU¨jhY©, beréš ntWghLilaJ) »¦fh©, Ûoa© Kjš äf¡Fiw¨j vilÍila Ãis‹ berÎ JâahF«. Âw¨j ü‰fë‹ mik¥òl‹, gšntW fyªfŸ bfh§l thª¥ k‰W© bt¥£ üšfshš beŒa¥gL»wJ. mitfŸ ü‰fë‹ j‹ik¡F V‰wthW ju¤Âš ntWghLfSilajhfΩ, fyª nghfhj j‹ik, berÎ k‰W© vil cilajhfΩ fhz¥gL»wJ. mitfŸ Å£L cgnahf¤Â‰fhd MilfŸ, V¥u‹ (MilfS¡F nkš mâÍ© nkš cil) Âiu¤JâfŸ, ngh‹wit cUth¡f ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. #hªb#£, R¤jkhd äf¡ Fiwthd vilÍŸs JâahF©. ÏJ Ïu£il üšfŸ, ’S’(v°)ÂiræY« Z (Ï[£) ÂiræY© KW¡f¥g£l thª¥ k‰W© bt¥£fshš beŒa¥g£l Jâ Jâæ‹ nkš gu¥Ãš kzš khÂç fodkhd njh‰wKilajhF©. Ϩj JâæèU¨J òlitfŸ k‰W© bg§fS¡fhd MilfŸ jahç¡f¥gL»wJ. thæš, R¤jkhd vil Fiwthf cŸs JâahF©. mÂfkhf KW¡f¥g£l, ÏUKiw mo¤J Á¡bfL¡f¥g£l) (nfh©¥L) R¤jkhd bkšèa üšfSila thª¥ k‰W© bt¥£ fshš cUth¡f¥gL»wJ. ÏJ KW¡fhd njh‰w© k‰W© ešy ouh¥Ã¦ juKilajhf ÏU¡F©. ϤJâæid Ãbsh«, gL¡if éç¥òfŸ, nfhil fhy¤Â‰fhd MilfŸ, FH¨ijfŸ cilfŸ ngh‹wit cUth¡f¥gL»wJ. gU¤Â jéu, xª«lªL üèèU¨J Tl thæš Jâ c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. %Ãah mÂfkhf KW¡nf‰w¥g£l, ÏUKiw R¤j¥gL¤j¥g£l bkšèa thª¥ k‰W© bt¥£ üšfshš c‰g¤Â brŒa¥g£l JâahF©. bjëthd njh‰w© k‰W© xëòf¡Toa (ouh‹«gbu‹£) njh‰wKila JâahF©. òlitfŸ k‰W© Ãbsh« cUth¡f %Ãah Jâ ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ
2 £éš berÎ JâfŸ £éš beréš thª¥ üšfŸ 2 Ãis,k‰W© bt¥£ üšfŸ 1 Ãis cilajhF«. blå«, nfgªo‹ k‰W© oçš M»ait £éš berÎ JâfshF©. oçš xU beU¡fkhf beŒa¥g£l, Ûoa© vilÍŸs Úo¤J ciH¡F© JâahF©. Ϩj Jâ msΡF V‰wthW tçir¥gL¤Â it¡f¥g£oU¥gnjhL bkªÁiu« brŒa¥g£L xU f¢Ájkhd beU¡fkhd njh‰w¤ij bfhL¡»wJ. fh¡» fyçš Ïj‰F rha© V‰w¥gLtjhš, fh¡» v‹W© miH¡f¥gL»wJ. bjhê‰ Tl¦fS¡fhd JâfŸ, «ã¡fª«, ouhaªfŸ (rhª£«) k‰W© ntiyæ‹ bghGJ cilfS¡F nkš mâÍ© nkš cil (Xtuhš) ngh‹wit cUth¡f oçš Jâ ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. blå©, mÂfkhf KW¡nf‰w¥g£l üšfëèU¨J c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. ÏJ äfΩ mlª¤Âahf beŒa¥g£l Ûoa© vilÍŸs JâahF©. Ïš thª¥ üš fyuhfΩ, bt¥£ üš rhjhuz btŸis ãw¤ÂY© ÏU¡F©. ϧonfh òS ãw¤Âš rhank‰w¥g£l thª¥ k‰W© rh©gš ãw (»nu) mšyJ ÃÇ¢ brŒa¥glhj bt¥£ üšfŸ ga‹gL¤Â Ϩj Jå c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. thª¥ nkš gu¥ÃY©, bt¥£ ËgFÂæY© Ϩj Jâæš fhz¥gL»wJ. blå© Jâæid gâ neu¤Âš mâÍ© MilfŸ, É‹«, Áyh¡° Õ¢ nuh¥°, r®£LfŸ ngh‹wit jahç¡f ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ. Ïj‹ mik¥ò : 36/24 v‹£« x á« xU br.Û. gu¥Ãš. nfgªo‹ Ûoa© vilÍŸs bkšèa üèš jahç¡f¥g£l Jâ. ÏJ äfΩ ftd¤ij¡ ftU© t§z© njh‰wkë¡F© thª¥ Kf© bfh§l £éš berÎ Kiwæš 13
beŒa¥g£ljhF©. Ϩj Jâæš Á¡bfL¡f¥g£l (fhªL) mšyJ mo¤J Á¡bfL¤J (nfh«¥L) R¤j¥gL¤j¥g£l üšfŸ. jå üš mšyJ Ãis üšfis bt¥£oš ga‹gL¤j¥g£LŸsJ. Ϩj Jâæid ôåghª©, éisah£L cilfŸ, kiHnfh£ k‰w© «fª£ (ghthil) cUth¡f ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ.
4 rh£o‹ berÎ JâfŸ rh£o‹ Ûoa© mšyJ mÂf vilÍŸs JâahF©. bkšèa beU¡fkhf beŒa¥g£l thª¥ üšfshš c‰g¤Â brŒa¥gL»wJ. ÏJ tèikahd, äUJthd, gsgs¥ghd JâahF©. Ïj‹ nkšgF äUJthdjhfΩ ËgF lšyhd fodkhdjhfΩ njh‰wkë¡F©. Ïš gsgs¥ò njh‰w© V‰gL¤Jtj‰fhf bkªÁiu« g§z¥gL»wJ. Ïjid ÂUkz¤Â‰fhd òlitfŸ k‰W© MilfŸ jahç¡f ga‹gL¤j¥gL»wJ.
nkY© m¿¨J bfhŸs
14