Unit-1 Lesson-2 by mayank govil

2- js'kksa ds xq.k (PROPERTIES OF FIBERS) fiNys ikB esa vkidks LVsiy js'kksa rFkk fQykesaV rUrq ls ifjfpr djk;k x;k FkkA bl ikB esa js'kksa ds fofHké xq.kksa dk o.kZu fd;k tk,xkA bl bdkbZ ds r`rh; ,oa vafre ikB esa vki fofHké js'kksa dks igpkuuk lh[ksaxsA

2-0

mís';

(Objectives)

bl ikB dk v/;;u djus ds Ik'pkr~ vki& • js'kksa dh fo'ks"krkvksa dk egŸo tku ik,¡xsA • js'kksa ds vkdkj (Size) laca/kh isjkehVj (Parameter) tSls ^MSfu;j* (Denier) ^dkm.V* (Count) vkfn ds ckjs esa tku tk,¡xsA • vleku js'kksa ds ;kaf=d rFkk fofHké HkkSfrd xq.k ds ckjs esa le> ik,¡xsA • js'kksa ds dqN tSfod rFkk jklk;fud xq.kksa dk Kku ÁkIr djsaxsA

2-1

çLrkouk

(Introduction)

js'kksa] /kkxksa rFkk oL=ksa ds xq.kksa dk Kku vko”;d gS D;ksafd ;g u dsoy fuekZrkvksa dks fof'k"V mi;ksx ds fy, oL= cukus esa lgk;rk nsrs gSa oju~ miHkksDrk dks fof'k"V Á;kstuksa (Purpose) ds ;ksX; lgh oL= ds pquko esa Hkh lgk;d gksrk gSA ,d oL= dks fu'p; gh vUrr% miHkksDrk dh vko”;drkvksa dks larq’V djuk pkfg,A ,d miHkksDrk dks blls dksbZ ÁHkko ugha gksrk gS fd oL= fuekZ.k dSls gqvk gS ;k mlesa D;k gksrk gSA miHkksDrk dh fpUrk oL= ds fVdkÅiu] (Durability) vkjkenk;d (Comfort) rFkk vkd’kZ.k (Aesthetic) ls lacaf/kr gksrh gSA fuekZrk dks fuf'pr :Ik ls miHkksDrk dh vko';drkvksa ds Áfr lpsr (Alert) jguk pkfg,sA oL= vf/kdrj /kkxksa ls vkSj dHkh&dHkh lh/ks js'kksa ls cuk, tkrs gSaA /kkxs ds xq.k dks lnSo eq[;r% js'kksa ds xq.kksa ds vk/kkj ij fuf'pr fd;k tkrk gSA mnkgj.kkFkZ js'kk ftruk gh eghu gksxk mruk gh vf/kd yphyk gksxk] ftlds ifj.kkeLo:Ik /kkxk Hkh vf/kd yphyk (Flexible) cusxkA dikl ds js'ks fHké&fHké yEckbZ esa ÁkIr gksrs gSaA /kkxksa dk mRiknu bUgh LVssiy js'kksa (Staple) dks ,d nwljs ds lkekUkkUrj j[k dj cV dj gksrk gSA bl ÁfØ;k dks ^drkbZ* (Spinning) ds uke ls tkuk tkrk gS ftldh foLr`r ppkZ ikB 4 esa dh xbZ gSA ^drkbZ* dk mi;ksx igys ikB esa ekuo fufeZr fQykesaV rarq (Filament) ds fuekZ.k gsrq Á;qDr ÁfØ;k ds fy;s Hkh fd;k x;k FkkA tc dHkh ;g “kCn lkeus vk,xk] ml le; ;g ckr /;ku esa j[kuh gksxh fd ^^drkbZ** “kCn dk Á;ksx fdl Álax esa fd;k x;k gS vkSj ;fn ;g ckr /;ku esa j[kh tk,xh rks ,sls esa Hkze dh dksbZ vk'kadk ugha gksxh] D;ksafd dikl dk LVsiy yEck js'kk (Staple Length) NksVs js'kksa dh vis{kk vf/kd eghu o et+cwr rFkk vis{kkd`r vf/kd yphyk gksrk gS] blfy, yEcs LVsiy js'ks ¼2-5 ls 6 lsaVhehVj½ vis{kkd`r fpdus vkSj et+cwr oL=ksa dk fuekZ.k 1

djrs gSaA ;g oL= fu'p; gh mu oL=ksa dh vis{kk vf/kd egaxs gksaxs ftudk fuekZ.k dikl ds NksVs LVsiy js'ks (Staple Length) ¼1 lsa 2-5 ls.VhehVj½ }kjk fd;k x;k gksxkA Åu eas ifjfLFkfr fHké gSaA mR—‘Ve Åu (Excellent Quality) ds fy, Åuh js'kksa dh yEckbZ yxHkx 5 lsaVhehVj rFkk lcls yEcs o eksVs (Coarse) Åu ds fy, 35 lsaVhehVj rd gksrh gSA Åu js'kksa esa O;kl dh n`f"V ls Hkh cgqr fHkérk ik;h tkrh gSA tgk¡ mRd`"Vre Åu ds js'ks dh eksVkbZ 14 ekbØks ehVj (Micro Meter) gksrh gS ogha lcls eksVh Åu ds js'ks dk O;kl 45 ekbØks ehVj rd gksrk gSA js'ke vfofPNé fQykesUV rarq ds :Ik esa ÁkIr gksrk gS ftudh yEckbZ yxHkx ,d fdyksehVj rd gksrh gSA leLr ekuo fufeZr js'ks tSls foLdksl js;kWu] ukbykWu] ikWfy,LVj vkSj vfØfyd dk mRiknu bPNkuqlkj yEckbZ;ksa esa gksrk gS] fdUrq tc bu js'kksa dks dikl vFkok Åu ds js'kksa ds lkFk lfEefJr djuk gksrk gS rc bUgsa vis{kkd`r NksVh yEckb;ksa esa dkV fy;k tkrk gS tks dikl ds lkFk lfEefJr djus gsrq 3 ls 6 lsaVhehVj ds chp rFkk Åu ds lkFk lafEefJr djus ds fy;s 7 lsaeh- ls 24 lsaeh- rd gks ldrh gSaA

2-2

js'kkskksa dh xq.koŸkk rFkk vkdkj laca/kh ekiu (A Parameter to Characterize Quality and Size of Fiber)

lkekU;r% inkFkksZa dk foØ; (Sale) Hkkj] vk;ru ;k yEckbZ ds vk/kkj ij gksrk gSA oL= mi;ksxh js'kksa ds fo"k; esa ;g xq.koÙkk ,oa vkdkj (Size) ds laca/k ds eki (Composite Measure) ds :Ik esa i;kZIr gSA ge igys gh ns[k pqds gSa fd yEcs dikl ds js'ks mPp xq.kksa okys gksrs gSa tcfd Åu ds fo"k; esa foijhr fLFkfr gSA fdUrq ;g ik;k x;k gS fd lkekU;r% tks js'kk ftruk eghu gksrk gS] xq.k dh n`f"V ls og mruk gh mPpre gksrk gSA blls ;g Kkr gksrk gS fd js'kksa ds xq.kork ds vkadyu ds irykiu (Fineness) vkSj [kqjnqjsiu (Coarseness) dks Hkh 'kkfey fd;k tkuk pkfg,A o"kksZa iwoZ bVyh esa js'ke O;kikfj;ksa us js'kksa ds fy, ,d vuks[kk mik; <w¡<+ fudkyk ftls mUgksaus ^MSfu;j* (Denier) uke fn;kA ^MSfu;j* ,d vad gS tks 9000 ehVj yEcs fQykesaV js'ks dk Hkkj gSA mnkgj.k ds fy, ;fn ,d 9000 ehVj yEcs js'ks dk Hkkj 5 xzke gS rks mldk ^MSfu;j* 5 gksxkA ;g ckr /;ku nsus ;ksX; gS fd ;g ,d ÁR;{k (Direct) eki gS D;ksafd eghu js'kksa dk MSfu;j de gksxk tcfd eksVs js'kksa dk MSfu;j vf/kd gksxkA ;g eki vc ekuo fufeZr js'kksa ds fy, Hkh cgqr Á;ksx esa yk;h tk jgh gSA eghu js'ke rFkk eghu dikl ¼lwr½ dk MSfu;j 1 ds fudV gksrk gS tcfd eghu Åu dk MSfu;j 4 ds yxHkx gksrk gSA eksVh Ádkj ds js'ke dh] dikl rFkk mudh ;g eki Øe'k% 6] 4 rFkk 20 gksrh gSA O;kikjh ijEijkxr :Ik ls dikl ds fy, ,d fHké eki dk Á;ksx djrs jgs gSa ftls ^dkm.V* (Count) dgrs gSaA MSfu;j dh Hkk¡fr ;g Hkh ,d vad gS ijUrq ^dkm.V* dikl ds ,d ikS.M (Pound) esa 840 xt yEcs lwrh /kkxs dh yfPN;ksa (Hanks) dh la[;k dks Ánf'kZr djrk gSA tSls ;fn 20 yfPN;ksa dk Hkkj 1 ikS.M gS rks ml /kkxs dk ^dkm.V* 20 gksxkA ;fn /kkxk eghu gksxk rks ^dkm.V* vf/kd gksxkA vr% ;g ,d vÁR;{k eki (Indirect Measure) gSA 20 dkm.V okyk ,d bdgjk /kkxk 20s ¼20 flaxy½ gksxk vkSj ;fn 20 dkm.V okys 2 ;k 3 /kkxs ,d lkFk cVs tk, rks og ,d] nks ;k rhu ^IykbZ* (Ply) okyk /kkxk cukrs gSaA ,sls esa mUgsa 2@20 ;k 3@20 dgk tk;sxkA Åu ds fy, ,d ,slk gh eki Á;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gS ijUrq bldh ÁR;sd yPNh (Hank) 256 xt dh gksrh gS tcfd ^olZVsM* (Worsted) ds fy, yfPN;ksa dh yEckbZ 560 xt+ gksrh gSA mi;qDr O;k[;k ls Li"V gks tk;sxk fd dkm.V ,oa MSfu;j ijLij vkil esa lacaf/kr gksaxs] tSls ;g vklkuh ls Ánf'kZr fd;k tk ldrk gS fd dikl esa ^^dkm.V × MSfu;j = 5315^^ 2

js'kkssa ds Kku lkxj esa MSfu;j ,d vR;Ur mi;ksxh vad gS rFkk ;kaf=dh O;ogkj dks fu/kkZfjr djus esa fo'ks"k lgk;d gksrk gSA bl ekid (Means) dks mi;ksx esa ykrs le; ;g iqu% Lej.kh; gks fd MSfu;j js[kh; ?kuRo (Linear Density) ¼xzke@9000 ehVj½ dks Ánf'kZr djrk gSA

Lo;a takp Á'u Á'u

(Self checkt Questions)

1- fuEukafdr dFku esa lR;@vlR; gS crk,¡& i) ii) iii) iv) v)

ekuo&fufeZr leLr js'kk de yEcs js'ks gksrs gSaA js'ke vf/kd yEckbZ okyk ,d ek= Ákd`frd js'kk gSSA js'kk ftruk gh eghu gksxk mldk MSfu;j mruk gh vf/kd gksxkA ;fn /kkxk eksVk gS rks mldk dkm.V vf/kd gksxkA de yEcs js'kksa }kjk cus oL= vis{kkd`r fpdus gksrs gSaA

lR;@vlR; lR;@vlR; lR;@vlR; lR;@vlR; lR;@vlR;

2- LVsiy js'kk (Staple Fiber) rFkk fQykesaV rarq (Filament) esa Áeq[k varj D;k gS\

Xkfrfof/k

(Activity)

1- 10 fofHké Ádkj ds flykbZ okys /kkxs ,df=r djsa rFkk mudh IykbZ (Ply), dkm.V (Count) vkfn ds vk/kkj ij fujh{k.k dj xq.k crk,¡A

2-3

js'kksa ds xq.k

(Properties of Fibers)

oL=ksi;ksxh js'kksa ds xq.kksa dks nks oxksZa esa foHkkftr fd;k tk ldrk gSA 1- HkkSfrd xq.k] ftudk iqu% fuEu :i ls oxhZdj.k fd;k tkrk gS i) ;kaf=d xq.k (Mechanical properties) ii) vkæZrk 'kks"k.k laca/kh fo'ks"krk,¡ (Moisture absorption characteristics ) iii) fo|qr lacaf/kr xq.k (Electrical properties) iv) rkih; xq.k (Thermal characteristics) v) Ádk'k laca/kh xq.k (Optical characteristics)

2- jklk;fud@tSfod xq.k (Chemical/ Biological Properties) js'kksa dh ;g fo'ks"krkvksa dk ,d Lrj u dsoy oL= mRiknu ds nkSjku vko';d gS ojuk vU; ÁfØ;k,¡ (Process) fo'ks"kdj drkbZ] oL= fuekZ.k rFkk jklk;fud ÁfØ;k ds nkSjku Hkh vko';d gSA

2-3-1 HkkSfrd xq.k

(Physical properties)

vc ge HkkSfrd xq.kksa dk ,d&,d djds v/;;u djsaxsA i) ;kaf=d xq.k (Mechanical properties) 3

js'kksa dh dk;Z{kerk] mi;ksfxrk rFkk ÁfØ;kvksa dh n`f’V ls ;kaf=d xq.k laHkor% lokZf/kd vfuok;Z gSA buesa foHkatu lkeF;Z (Breaking Strength), foHkatu nS?;Zo`f) (Breaking Elongation), ÁkjfEHkd voLFkk esa vkus dk lkeF;Z (Elastic Recovery) ,oa n`<+rk tSlh egŸoiw.kZ xq.kksa dk lekos'k gksrk gSA js'kksa] /kkxksa rFkk oL=ksa ij lokZf/kd fd;k tkus okyk ijh{k.k ^ruu&Áfrcy&o/kZu ijh{k.k (Tensile Stress-Strain Test) gS rFkk blds egRo dh n`f’V ls bldk laf{kIr o.kZu fd;k tk,xkA fdlh js'ks ds Áfrcy o/kZu O;ogkj (Stress Strain Behavior) dk v/;;u djus ds fy, js'kksa dks ,d ruu tk¡pd (Tensile Tester) ds nks tcM+ksa ds chp idM+ dj ,d tcM+s dks ,d fu;af=r xfr ls c<+krs gq;s QSyk;k tkrk gS rFkk js'ks dks rkuus ds fy, vko”;d Hkkj rFkk mldh yEckbZ esa gksus okyh o`f) dks mlds VwVus rd vafdr fd;k tkrk gSA bl Ádkj ÁkIr ^Hkkj nS?;Zo`f) oØ js[kk* (Local Elongation Curve) dks ^Áfrcy o/kZd oØ js[kk* (Stress Strain Curve) esa cnyuk iM+rk gS ftlls fd vk¡dM+k js'kksa dh fofHkérk ls Lora= jgsA pw¡fd vusd js'kksa dh vuqÁLFk dkV (Cross Section) laHko gS fd o`rkdkj u gks vr% bls djus dk lokZf/kd lqfo/kktud jkLrk ;g gksxk fd Hkkj dks js'ks ds MSfu;j (Denier) ls Hkkx ns fn;k tk, vkSj Áfrcy (Stress) dks xzke “kfDr@MSfu;j esa O;Dr fd;k tk, ftls ^fof'k"V Áfrcy* (Specific Stress ) dgrs gSaA rhu Áeq[k Ákd`frd js'kksa rFkk ekuo fufeZr js'kksa dh ^Áfrcy o/kZd oØ js[kk,¡ Øe'k% fp= 2-1 ¼v½ 2-1 ¼c½ esa Ánf'kZr gSA Ák—frd js'kksa esa Åu vf/kd c<+us ds ckn VwVrk gS tcfd dikl mldh rqyuk esa cgqr de c<+rk gSA js'ke vkSj dikl dh rqyuk esa Åu de t+ksj yxus ij gh VwV tkrk gSA ekuo fufeZr js'kksa esa ikWfy,LVj (PET) rFkk ukbykWu 66 ds js'kksa dh VwVus dh {kerk ,sfØfyd vkSj js;kWu js'kksa dh rqyuk esa vf/kd gSA

fp= 22--1 v Áfrcy o/kZd js[kk,¡ ¼Ák— ¼Ák—frd js'kkskksa ds fy, fy,½

fp= 22-1 c Áfrcy o/kZd js[kk,¡ ¼ekuo fufeZr js'kksa ds fy,½ fy,½

Áfrcy o/kZZd oØ js[kk ls ,d vU; mi;ksxh ;kaf=d fo'ks"krk dh tkudkjh ÁkIr dh tk ldrh gS og ^ÁkFkfed ekikad* (Initial Modulus) gS ftls Áfrcy fo—fr oØ js[kk ds ÁkjfEHkd <ky ls vk¡dk tk ldrk gSA ÁkFkfed ekikad ;k dBksjrk fdlh js'ks }kjk viuh ÁkFkfed fo—fr dks jksdus gsrq fd;k x;k Áfrjks/k gS ftls ÁkFkfed ekikad (Initial Modulus) ¾ Áfrcy@ fo—fr dks ¼vfr fuEu ruko ij½ }kjk ifjHkkf’kr fd;k tkrk gSA rkfydk 2 esa fofHké rarqvksa ds fy, ;kaf=d xq.kksas (Mechanical Parameters) dk lkjka'k fn;k x;k gSA bl vk¡dM+s esa ,d vdsys js'ks dk ugha oju~ ,d iwjh Js.kh (Range) dk lekos'k gSA Rkkfydk 22-1 Áeq[k js'kkskkas ds ;kaf=d xq.k

js'kk dikl

ÁkFkfed ekikad ¼ MSfu;j½ 45&75

foHkatu Áfrcy ¼MSfu;j½ 2-0&5-0

foHkatu Álkj 5-6&7-1 4

Åu js'ke foLdksl+ js;kWu ukbykWu 66 ukbykWu 6 ikWfy,LVj (PET) ,sfØfyd ikWfyÁksfiyhu

25&35 35&135 15&40 22&40 17&40 55&90 20&50 25&55

1-2&1-5 2-0&5-0 1-5&3-3 3-3&6-7 3-3&6-7 3-0&7-2 2-2&4-0 3-0&7-0

29&43 10&40 15&30 20&30 20&40 15&55 30&65 25&60

;g fopkj.kh; gS fd ÁkÑfrd ,oa ekuo&fufeZr js'kksa ds ;kaf=d xq.k dh ,d foLr`r Ük`a[kyk gSA dqN mYys[kuh; o :fpdj fcUnq uhps fn, x, gSa& i) ,sfØfyd js'kksa ds ;kaf=d xq.k yxHkx Åu ds leku gS vkSj okLro esa ;g —f=e Åu ds

:Ik esa Á;ksx esa yk, tkrs gSaA ii) dikl vkSj ikWfy,LVj js'kksa dh et+cwrh rFkk lVus dh {kerk ,d nwljs ds vfr fudV gaSA vr% mUgsa feyk;k tk ldrk gSA iii) Ák—frd js'kksa esa js'ke ds ;kaf=d xq.k ekuo fufeZr js'kksa ds lcls fudV gSaA orZeku rdZ ?kjsyw ,oa ifj/kku gsrq mi;ksx esa vkus okys js'kksa rd lhfer FkkA vkS|ksfxd Á;ksx ds fy, mPp ;kaf=d xq.k okys js'kksa dk fuekZ.k mPp v.kqHkkj (High Molecular Weight) rFkk mPprj vfHkfoU;kl (Orientation) ds jklk;u dk Á;ksx djds fd;k tkrk gSA ÁR;kLFkrk ;k yphykiu (Elasticity) js'kksa dk ,d vU; ;kaf=d xq.k gS ftldh O;ogkfjd mi;ksfxrk gSA oL= dks [khapus ds Ik'pkr~ ;fn og viuh iwokZoLFkk dks ÁkIr djus dh ;ksX;rk j[krk gks rks bl xq.k dks yphykiu dgsaxsA oL= dh viuh ewy fLFkfr dh iqu% ÁkfIr le; ij fuHkZj djrh gS vkSj vis{kkd`r de cy (Force) dh fLFkfr esa 100( iqu% ÁkfIr gks ldrh gS fdUrq cy esa o`f) ds lkFk&lkFk iwokZoLFkk dh ÁkfIr esa deh vk ldrh gSA iwokZoLFkk dh ÁkfIr (Elastic Recovery) viw.kZ gksus ij oL= dq:irk (Deformation) dh fLFkfr esa cuk jgrk gSA bldk vFkZ ;g gqvk fd ml js'ks ;k /kkxs ds vkdkj dk LFkkf;Ro (Dimensional Stability) fuEu dksVh dk gSA ukbykWu 66] Åu vkSj ikWfy,LVj js'kk cgqr vf/kd Álkj (Extension) dks ÁkIr djus ds Ik'pkr~ Hkh iwokZoLFkk dks ÁkIr djus dk xq.k vFkkZr~ vkjafHkd voLFkk esa okil ykSVus dk “kkunkj xq.k (Elastic Recovery) Ánf'kZr djrk gSA js'ke] foLdkst+ js;kWu vkSj dikl esa ;g xq.k de gksrk gSA js'ks esa ,d vU; xq.k dk gksuk vfuok;Z gS tks gesa rc le> esa vk,xk tc ge ;g lkspas fd ,d dkyhu ij pyrs le; o iSj j[krs le; og nc tk, o vkxs c<+us ij ihNs ds fgLls ds #,sa lkekU; :i ÁkIr djrs tk,aA ;g fo'ks"krk jsflfy,sUl (Resilience) dgykrh gSA uk;ykWu 66 rFkk Åu bl fo'ks"krk esa mPpre gS vr% dkyhu m|ksx esa Á;ksx fd, tkrs gSaA fVdkÅiu (Durability) ,d vU; xq.k gS ftl ij ;gk¡ fopkj fd;k tk ldrk gSA vusd ;kaf=d xq.k fVdkÅiu Ánku djus esa lg;ksx dj ldrs gSa tSls ekikad (Modulus), foHkatu&lkeF;Z (Breaking Strength), foHkatu nS?;Zo`f) (Breaking Elongation), vi?k’kZ.k Áfrjks/k (Abrasion Resistance) bR;kfnA ekuo&fufeZr js”ks Ák—frd js”kksa dh vis{kk vf/kd fVdkÅ gksrs gSaA fVdkÅiu ekiu ij ukbykWu vkSj ikWfy,LVj lcls Åij rFkk fyuu vkSj js'ke dh fLFkfr Ák—frd js'kksa esa lcls Åij gSA ii) Ukeh vo'kks"k.k xq.k (Moisture absorption characteristics)

xeZ ,oa ue ekSle esa fdlh Hkh O;fDr dks vlqfo/kk ;k cspSuh eglwl gksxh ;fn ifj/kku mlds ilhuk vkSj ueh dks u lks[ksA ;fn diM+k ueh vkSj ilhus dks lks[k ldrk gS rFkk ckg~; okrkoj.k ls fdlh Ádkj larqyu LFkkfir dj ldrk gS rks blls dqN gn rd og vkjkenk;d gks ldrk gSA vr% oL= dh ueh lks[kus dh {kerk dks le>uk egŸoiw.kZ gSA Ák—frd js'ks ekuo fufeZr js'kksa dh vis{kk foLdksl js;kWu dks NksM+dj vf/kd ueh lks[krs gSaA ;gh dkj.k gS fd 'kjhj ds lh/ks laidZ esa jgus okys Hkhrjh oL= (Under Garments) vf/kdka'kr% dikl ds cus gksrs gSaA ,d oL= esa ty dh ek=k dks lkekU;r% vkæZrk ds :Ik esa O;Dr fd;k tkrk gS ftls fuEu :iksa ls ifjHkkf’kr fd;k tk ldrk gSA js'ks esa vo'kksf"kr vkæZrk dh ek=k Áfr'kr vkæZrk iquÁkZfIr = --------------------------------------- x 100 'kq"d uewus dh ek=k Áeq[k Ákd`frd rFkk ekuo fufeZr js'kksa ds fy, vkæZrk iquÁkZfIr laca/kh vk¡dM+k rkfydk 2-2 esa fn;k x;k gSA ;g ckr /;ku nsus ;ksX; gS fd Åu dh vkæZrk iquÁkZfIr lHkh js'kksa esa lokZf/kd gSA dks'ke;h jpuk okys lsY;wyksfld (Cellulosic) rFkk ÁksVhu js'ks vU; oxZ ds js'kksa dh vis{kk cgqr vf/kd ek=k esa ueh lks[krs gSa D;ksafd budh jklk;fud lajpuk esa vkæZrk vo'kks"kd lewg fo|eku gksrs gSaA ty vo'kks"kd js'kksa ds jaxus ds xq.k (Dyeing) Hkh vklku gksrk gSA Åu esa ty vo'kks"kd lewgksa dh vf/kd la[;k gksus ds lkFk&lkFk vO;ofLFkr lewg vis{kkd`r cgqr vf/kd (75%) gksrs gSa vkSj pw¡fd ;g lewg ty v.kqvksa dks lks[k ysrs gSa vr% mudh vkæZrk iqu% ÁkfIr leLr js'kksa dh vis{kk vf/kd gSA

Rkkfydk 22-2 dqN js'kkskksa ds vkæZrk iqu% ÁkfIr ÁkfIr laca/kh vk¡dM+s rarq (Fiber) dikl elZjkbZT+M dkWVu foLdksl js;kWu js'ke Åu ukbykWu ikWfy,LVj ,sfØfyd

vkæZrk iquÁkZfIr (%) ¼200 lsfYl;l rFkk 65% 65 vkærk ij½ 7&8 12 12&14 10 14&18 4-1 0-4 1-2

iii) oS|qr xq.k (Electrical properties)

oL=ksi;ksxh js'ks lkekU;r% vPNs fo|qrjks/kh (Insulator) gksrs gSaA mudh fo|qr Áfrjks/kdrk cgqr vf/kd gksrh gSA /kkrqvksa ds foijhr muesa eqDr bysDVªkWu (Free Electron) ughas gksrs gSa ftlls og fo|qr dk pkyu ugha gksus nsrs gSaA 6

tc /kkxs fuekZ.k ÁfØ;k ls xqtj jgs gksa vFkok diM+ksa ds :Ik esa budh cqukbZ ;k Qank cqukbZ (Knitting) gks jgh gks rks ;a= dh lrg ij js'kksa ds ?k"kZ.k (Friction) }kjk fLFkj fo|qr vkos'k ¼Electrostatic Charge) mRié gksrk gS tks lafpr gksrk jgrk gSA js'kk ml vkos'k dks lapkfyr djus ;k gVkus dk dk;Z ugha djrk gSA ;g LFkSfrd vkos'k (Static Charge) ijs'kkuh dk dkj.k cu ldrk gSA pw¡fd ty fo|qr dk mPp pkyd gS vr% vkæZrk dh mifLFkfr LFkSfrd vkos'k ds lafpr gksus ls cpkrh gSA blhfy, lwrh diM+s ds dkj[kkuksa esa vkæZrk dk mPp Lrj cuk, j[kk tkrk gSA pw¡fd —f=e js'kksa esa vkæZrk iqu% ÁkfIr (Moisture Regain) de gksrh gS vr% muds lkFk LFkSfrd vkos'k (Static Charge) dh leL;k cgqr gksrh gSA blfy, gh dHkh&dHkh ikWfy,LVj oL=ksa ds fuekZ.k dk;Z ds nkSjku mM+rh gqbZ fpuxkfj;k¡ ns[kh tk ldrh gSaA iv) rkih; xq.k (Thermal proporties)

oL=ksi;ksxh js'ks foLdks&bykfLVd (Visco-Elastic) inkFkZ gS ftlls rkRi;Z ;g gS fd muesa ijEijkxr Bksl inkFkksZa }kjk Ánf'kZr ^ykspiw.kZ* (Elastic) vkpj.k ds lkFk gh rjy inkFkksZa }kjk Ánf'kZr ^foLdksl* (Viscous) ds xq.k Hkh gksrs gSaA vr% js'ks ds xq.kksa ij rki dk cgqr ÁHkko iM+rk gSA xeZ djus ij —f=e oL= dkQh eqyk;e gks tkrk gS tSls 2300c ¼lsaVh xzsM½ ij ikWfy,LVj }kjk fufZeZr ,d irywu esa LFkk;h rgsa (Pleats) yxkbZ tk ldrh gSaA ;g fo'ks"krk mRikn dks m"ek fLFkj.k (Heat Setting) }kjk vkdkj dk LFkkf;Ro (Dimensional Stability) Ánku djrk gSA nwljh vkSj Ák—frd js'kksa }kjk fufeZr oL= —f=e js'kksa dh rjg e`nqyu (Softening) dk Án'kZu ugha djrs gSaA vr% dikl] Åu ,oa js'ke }kjk fufeZr oL=ksa dks fufeZr djus gsrq jklk;fud ÁfØ;kvksa dk Á;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA v) Ádk'k laca/kh vfHky{k.k (Optical characteristics)

tc fdlh js'ks ij Ádk'k iM+rk gS rc mldk dqN va'k ml js'ks dks ikj dj tkrk gS (Transmit)] dqN js'ks }kjk vo'kksf"kr dj fy;k tkrk gS (Absorbed), rFkk 'ks"k ijkofrZr (Reflected) gks tkrk gSA fdlh oL= dh ped (Luster) rFkk dqy vkd"kZ.k (Total Visual Appearance) ijkofrZr Ádk'k dh rhozrk (Intensity) ls lacaf/kr gksrk gSA diM+s esa o`Ùkkdkj fQykesaV rarq dh ,d nwljs ds lekUrj O;oLFkk fu;fer ijkorZu] bl rhozrk dks c<+k nsxh vkSj vkSj bl Ádkj diM+s dks vf/kd ped okyk cuk nsxhA ;gh dkj.k gS fd elZjkbt+~M lwrh diM+kas (Mercerized Cotton) esa lrg vf/kd fpduh gksrh gSA Ñf=e js'ks vuqÁLFk dkV (Longitudinal Section) esa lkekU;r% o`rkdkj gksrs gSaA ;g vkdkj mUgsa bruh ped Ánku djrk gS fd mudh fpduh lrg dks de djus ds fy, fVVsfu;e MkbZ&vkWDlkbZM (Titanium Dioxide) ,d Mfyax ÁfrØed (Dulling Agents) dk Á;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA

Lo;a tkap Á'u Á'u

(Self Assessment Questions)

3- ,d Áfrcy&o/kZd oØ js[kk (Stress-Strain Curve) }kjk ÁkIr fd, tkus okys nks ;kaf=d xq.kksa ds uke crkvksA 4- ÁfrLFkkf;Ro (Resiliency) dh ifjHkk’kk nas rFkk vf/kdre ^fjft+fyvUlh* (Resiliency) okys nks js'kksa ds uke crk,¡A 5- ,sfØfyd (Acrylic) js'kksa dk Á;ksx —f=e Åu ds :Ik esa D;ksa fd;k tkrk gS\ 6- lokZf/kd ,oa lcls de fVdkÅ js'kksa ds uke crk,¡A 7

7- Ñf=e js'kk D;ksa lokZf/kd ped okyk (Lustrous) gksrk gS\

2-3-2 jklk;fud] tSfod ,oa vU; xq.k (Chemical, biological and other properties)

Hkyh Hkk¡fr le>us ds fy, lHkh rhuksa oxksZa ds js'kksa esa gksus okys tSfod ,oa jklk;fud xq.k dks rkfydk ds :Ik esa ÁLrqr fd;k x;k gSA rkfydk esa dqN vU; :fpdj xq.kksa dks Hkh lEefyr fd;k x;k gSA Rkkfydk 22-3 leLr dks'ke;h js'kksa esa lk/kkj.k y{k.k (Basic Features Common to Cellulosic Fibers)

Øekad fo'ks"krk (Property) 1 m"ek dk lqpkyd 2 fuEu iqu% ÁkfIr (Low in Elastic Recovery)

vo'kks"kdrk (absorbent)

4 5

ekWFk (moth) }kjk Áfrjks/kd mPp rkiØe ds Áfr lgu”khy

{kkj }kjk de ÁHkkfor

7 8 9 10

vEyksa }kjk ÁHkkfor QQwanh (mildew) }kjk ÁHkkfor Toyu”'khy /kkxksa esa HkyhHkk¡fr lV tkrs gSaSA

egŸo (Significance) ;s diM+s xzh"e _rq esa iguus esa B.Ms jgrs gSaA ifjlfTtr (Finished) ugha gksus dh voLFkk esa cqjh rjg ls flyoVs (Wrinkles) iM+ tkrh gSA Ukeh vo'kksf"kr djrs gSa] xehZ esa iguus gsrq mi;qDr] rkSfy;k Mk;ij ,oa :eky gsrq mi;qDr gksrs gSaA laj{k.k dh leL;k vklku gksrh gSA jksxk.kqjfgr djus gsrq mckys tk ldrs gSa] bL=h djrs le; fo'ks"k lko/kkuh vko';d ugha gksrh gSA diM+s fojaftr djus (Bleached) o rhoz lkcqu ls /kksus ;ksX; gksrs gSa] ilhus ls vf/kd uqdlku ughas gksrk A Qyksa ds /kCcs rqjUr NqM+k fn, tkus pkfg,A oL=ksa dks xhyk o xUnk j[kus ls cpsaA <hys &<kys cus gq, oL= [kqyh Tokyk ds lehi u igus tk,¡A /kkxs dks Øsi (Creped) fd;k tk ldrk gSA

Rkkfydk 22-4 leLr ÁksVhu js'kkskksa esa lk/kkj.k y{k.k (Basic Features Common to Protein Fibers)

Øekad xq.k (Property) 1 ypd iquÁkfIr (elastic recovery) 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

egŸo (Significance) dks'ke;h &js'kksa dh vis{kk viuk vkdkj vPNk cuk, jgrs gSaA xhyh voLFkk esa vis{kkd`r detksj Åu viuh 'kfDr dk 40 Áfr'kr rFkk js'ke 15 Áfr'kr 'kfDr [kks nsrk gSA vr% /kksrs le; lko/kkuh cjrsaA vkWDlhdkjdksa }kjk ÁHkkfor Dyksjhu }kjk fojatd (Bleach) djus ls js'ks dk gkfu igq¡prh gSA /kwi lQsn diM+ksa dks ihyk cukrh gSA fo|qr ds dqpkyd (Poor Conductor) fo|qr jks/ku (Electrical Insulation) esa Á;ksx gksrs gSaA mPp vo'kks"kdrk (absorbency) B.Ms] ue tyok;q esa vkjkenk;d] nqxZa/k vo'kks"kdA {kkjksa }kjk detksj gks tkrs gSa ilhuk diM+ksa dks det+ksj cukrk gSA mnklhu ;k e`nq lkcqu ;k fMVjtsaV (Detergent) dk Á;ksx djsaA lw[kh xehZ }kjk u"V gksrs gSa Åu rki }kjk l[r gks tkrk gS rFkk vklkuh ls >qyl tkrk gSA js'ke rki ls ihyk gks tkrk gSA ngu esa lgk;rk ugha igq¡pkrs ÁksVhu js'ks Tokyk ds gVkus ij tyuk cUn dj nsrs gSaA tyrs gq, ÁksVhu js'kk dh xa/k tyrs gq, ia[k tSlh gksrh gSA oLrqvksa dk Hk.Mkj.k uS¶+Fkyhu dh xksfy;ksa ds lkFk djsaA ekWFk (Moth) }kjk ÁHkkfor Rkkfydk 22-5 vf/kdka'k rki& lquE; js'kkskksa ds lk/kkj.k y{k.k (Basic features common to most Thermoplastic Fibers)

Øekad

xq.k (Property)

egŸo (Significance) 8

Xkhyh voLFkk esa et+cwrh lw[ks ds cjkcj gksrh gSA

Ykphykiu (Elasticity)] ÁR;kLFkk rFkk bZyksxs'ku (Elongation)

ueh dk vo'kks"k.k de (Low Moistures Absorption )

Ekt+cwrh (Tensile Strength) rFkk vi?k"kZ.k Áfrjks/kdrk (Abrasion Resistance)

mPp jklk;fud Áfrjks/kdrk (chemical resistance)

Rkki&laosnh (heat sensitive)

m"ek fLFkj.k (heat setting)

8 9

ypd iquÁkZfIr (Elastic Recovery) ekWFk (Moth)] QQwnh (Mildew)] dhM+s&edksM+s (Insects), vkfn ds Áfr vf/kd Áfrjks/k

Lo;a tk¡ tk¡p Á'u

/kqykbZ ;k iguus ds nkSjku jxM+ (Agitation) ;k vi?k"kZ.k (Abrasion) ds dkj.k ifjorZu cgqr FkksM+k gksrk gSA xehZ Ánku (Warmth) djus ds fy, LFkku cuk, j[krk gSA [khapus (Stretching) ds i”pkr~ iqu% viuk vkdkj ÁkIr dj ysrk gSA ykHk % 1- /kCcs NqM+kuk vklku 2- vklkuh ls /kqyus ;ksX; 3- 'kh?kz lw[krk gSA gkfu % 1- jaxkbZ dfBu (Difficult to Dye) 2- LFkSfrd fo|qr vkos'k (Static Electricity Charges) cukrk gSA 3- Ikguus esa vkjkenk;d ugha gksrs gSaA iguus ds nkSjku gksus okys vfHkd"kZ.k (Pilling) rFkk ?k"kZ.k (Rubbing) ds Áfr vf/kd fVdkÅ (Durable) gksrs gSaA vEy (Acids)] {kkj (Alkalis)] fojatd (Bleach)] fMVjtsaV (Detergents) }kjk 'kh?kz u"V ugha gksrsA Ropk Ádksi (Skin Irritant) ds :Ik esa [krjukd (Hazardous) ugha gksrsA fuEukafdzzr ds laidZ esa vkus ij fi?kyrk gS % 1- xeZ bL=h 2- rEckdw dh xeZ jk[k 3- dksbZ xeZ oLrq lgk;d gksaxs 1- Áfrjks/kh jks,¡ (Resistant Pile) dks nckus esa 2- LFkk;h rg (Pleats) cukus esa 3- ewy eki ,oa vkdkj j[kus esa 4- Qans okyh cqukoV dks /kqykbZ ds ckn bL=h djus dh vko';drk ugh gksxhA 5- ,aEcksLM uewus (Embossed Designs) laHko gksrs gSaA flyoV (Wrinkles) ugha iM+rs gSaA Hk.Mkj.k dks vklku cukrk gSA bu dkj.kksa ls cgqr de gkfu igq¡prh gSA

(Self check Questions)

8- fjDr LFkku Hkjsa& i) xhyh voLFkk esa Åu dh et+cwrh (Strength ) esa yxHkx ________ % dh deh vkrh gS tcfd xhyk js'ke viuh yxHkx _________ % et+cwrh [kks nsrk gSA ii) ________ js'kk vf/kdre vkæZrk vo'kksf"kr djrs gSa tcfd ________ js'ks

U;wure ty vo'kks"k.k djrs gSaA iii) tyrs gq, ÁksVhu js'kk dh xa/k ________ gksrh gSA iv) _________ dk js'ks xeZ djus ij ihys iM+ tkrs gSaA

2-4

nÙk dk;Z

(Assignments) 9

2-4-1 d{kk dk;Z

(Class assignments)

i) ÁkÑfrd ,oa —f=e js'kksa ds 5&5 uewus ,d= djsaA mudh ruu lkeF;Z (Tensile Strength) ,oa ypd iqu% ÁkfIr (Elastic Recovery) laca/kh xq.k dk ijh{k.k Á;ksx'kkyk (Testing Laboratory) esa djsaA

2-4-2 x`g dk;Z

(Home assignments)

i) fHké&fHké /kqykbZ] lko/kkuh y{k.kksa rFkk jklk;fud xq.kksa ds vk/kkj ij fofHké Ádkj ds js'kksa ds fy, cktkj esa miyC/k fMVtsZaV (Detergents) ,oa fojatdksa (Bleaches) rFkk vU; ÁfrØedksa (Reagents ) dh ,d lwph cuk,¡A

2-5

Lkkjka Lkkjka'k

(Summing Up)

bl ikB esa js'kksa ds HkkSfrd] jklk;fud rFkk tSfod xq.kksa ds fo"k; esa o.kZu gSA js'kksa ds vkjke (Comfort)] ueh vo'kks"k.k rFkk oS|qr ,oa vU; xq.k dks fu;af=r djus okys dkjdksa ds fo"k; esa rdZ laxr ifjp; fn;k x;k gSA ;g Ánf'kZr fd;k x;k gS fd js'kksa esa ;kaf=d xq.kksa dh foLr`r Ük`a`[kyk ÁkIr gksrh gSA js'kksa ds rkih; ,oa Ádk'k laca/kh fo'ks"krkvksa (Characteristics) dk Hkh o.kZu ikB esa fd;k x;k gSA

2-6

Lo;a tk¡p Á'uks Á'uksa ds laHkkfor mÙkj (Possible Answers to Self check Questions) 1. crk,¡ fd dFku lR;@vlR; gS& i) ii) iii) iv) v)

vlR; lR; vlR; vlR; vlR;

2. fQykesaV js'ks vis{kkd`r vf/kd yEckbZ okys rFkk vfojr gksrs gSaA 3. Áfrcy o/kZd oØ js[kk ds vafre fcUnq foHkatu Áfrcy ,oa foHkatu o/kZd dh vksj bafxr

djrs gSaA 4. nckus (Compression) dh fLFkfr ls xqtjus ds Ik'pkr~ js'kk }kjk viuh iwoZ fLFkfr dks

iqu% ÁkIr dj ysus dh ;ksX;rk dks ÁfrLFkkf;Ro ^^jsft+fy,sUl** dgrs gSaA ukbykWu 66 ,oa Åu esa ;g xq.k lokZf/kd gksrk gSA 5. ,sfØfyd js'kk ds mPp yphykiu (Extensibility)] fuEu lkeF;Z bR;kfn Åu ds xq.k ls

cgqr fudV gksrs gSaA ,sfØfyd js'ks dk mRiknu fd;k tk ldrk gS rFkk —f=e Åu ds :Ik esa mldk Á;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA 6. ukbykWu vkSj ikWfy,LVj lokZf/kd fVdkÅ rFkk fyuu ,oa js'ke lcls de fVdkÅ js'kk

gSA 7. —f=e js'kk vuqÁLFk dkV (Cross Section) esa lkekU;r% o`rkdkj gksrs gSa rFkk fpdus o`rkdkj csyu (Smooth Circular Cylinders) gksrs gSaA ;g jpuk mUgsa mPp dksfV dh ped (Luster) Ánku djrk gSA 8. fjDr LFkkuksa dh iwfrZ djsa& 10

i) ii) iii) iv)

2-7

40%] 15% Åu] ikWfy,lVj ia[k tSls js'ke

vH;klkFkZ Á'u

(Terminal Questions)

1. ueh iqu% ÁkfIr (Moisture Regain) dks ifjHkkf"kr djsaA 2. Ákd`frd js'kksa dh ^ueh iquÁkZfIr* d`f=e js'kksa dh vis{kk vf/kd D;ksa gksrh gS\ 3. lq[k (Comfort)] vkæZrk vo'kks"k.k (Moisture Absorption) ls fdl Ádkj laca/k gS\ 4. LFkk;h rg cukuk (Pleating) fdls dgrs gSa\ ikWfy,sLVj ifj/kku esa bls dSls cuk;k

tkrk gS\ 5. —f=e js'ks ^Å"ek fLFkj* (Heat Set) D;ksa gksrs gSa\ 6. ,d oL=ksi;ksxh js'kk ds foHkatu lkeF;Z (Breaking Strength) ls D;k rkRi;Z gS\

2-8

lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa (References and Suggested Further Reading) 1. ctkt] ih- ,oa xqIrk] oh. ch- (2004) :bZ ls ukbykWu rd] ,u lh bZ vkj Vh] u;h

fnYyhA 2. Morton, W.E. and Hearte, J.W.S, (1993), Physical properties of Textile Fibers. The Textile Institute, Manchester. 3. Booth, J.E. (1996), Principles of Textile Testing. C.B.S Publishers & Distributors, New Delhi. 4. Sreenivasa Murthy, H.V. (1987), Introduction to Textile Fibers, the Textile Association, Bombay.

2-9

'kCnkoyh

(Glossary)

1. eksVk (Coarsest)

?kfV;k] vifj"—r

2. ÁfrfLFkfrRo (Resiliency)

jsft+fy,sUl & lEihMu ls iwoZ dh iqu% ÁkfIr

3. cspSuh (Discomfort)

d"Vnk;h

4. foLdks bykfLVd (Visco-Elastic)

“;kurk ¼fpidko½ (Viscous) rFkk ypd ;k ÁR;kLFk (Elastic) dk feyktqyk vkpj.kA