RTW Sept 2012

RTW Fashion Forecasts

FASHION FAIRS LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK COUTURE FASHION WEEK

Vol 02|Issue 02|`1000|USD 27|GBP 18|Euro 20

Special A/W 2013-14 S/S 2013

fall/winter 2013-14

IV edition

11.12.13 september 2012 portello fieramilanocity Textile and Accessory top-end collections for women’s wear and men’s wear

www.milanounica.it

02.02

CONTENTS EDITOR’S LETTER

08

BRAND NEWS

12

RTW | FASHION NEWS

20

RTW | FOCUS ON FAIRS & EVENTS ALTA ROMA ALTA MODA 28 BREAD & BUTTER 32 INTERFILIERE 39 ECLAT DE MODE 42 FATEX 44 MODEFABRIEK 46 PITTI IMMAGINE 48 THE BRANDERY 52 WHO’S NEXT PRÊT A PORTER PARIS 54

The Brandery, Barcelona, Spain

BEST OF RTW | FASHION WEEKS BEST OF RTW - LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK BEST OF RTW - COUTURE FASHION WEEK

57 77

RTW | FASHION TRENDS & FORECASTS ECLAT DE MODE | AW 12-13 102 MAISON OBJET | S/S 2013 106 LE CUIR A PARIS | A/W 2013-14 110 MODAMONT | A/W 2013-14 116 MUNICH FABRIC START | A/W 2013-14 120 THE WOOL LAB | A/W 2013-14 125 SPIN EXPO | A/W 2013-14 130 TEXWORLD | A/W 2013-14 138 SUBSCRIPTIONS INFO

Cover Credit Bread & Butter Exposition, Berlin, Germany

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This document has been established with the financial assistance of CTC, Tax and Subsidies department

LECUIRAPARIS LEATHER&FUR EVENT

19-21 SEPT. 2012 PARIS-NORD VILLEPINTE HALL4

AUTUMN/WINTER13 -14

LEATHER FUR TEXTILE COMPONENTS

www.lecuiraparis.com

Editor’s Letter Keeping Pace With The Changing Times...

Vol: 02, Issue: 02, Pages: 148

Editor & Publisher Annou Iyer Creative Director Peali Dutta Gupta Graphic Design - Head Fabian Daly Advertising & Marketing Santosh Mandal E: advertise@rtwmag.com RTW Web Amit Rana Abhay Pal Chauhan Contributing Photographers Latiff Napolean Johari, UK Matthias Koeppel, Europe

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The boom in the Indian Fashion Industry, to a major extent, can be attributed to the way the industry has responded and transformed itself with the changing times.

The designer shows and collections featured in this edition of RTW, shows that no longer the fashion styles and trends are restrained by geography, culture, customs and nationalities.

Indian fashion Industry proves that it has the courage to accept the global trends and yet retain its originality.

Budding Indian Designers are proving their mettle on international forums; the appreciation and accolades are doing wonders in changing the face of the Industry. The Andrea Pompilio industry today is a reflection that it can adapt its ways and yet retain its essence that encompasses diverse cultures and styles.

This edition, we are focusing on the season, Autumn / Winter 2013-14 with a trend recap for Summer 2013.

The featured Lakmé Fashion Week and Couture Fashion Week collections show the magnificience of the Indian workmanship, that is blended with emerging design talents. The vast line-up of fashion trade events across the world is our effort to bring to you the latest in ready to wear trends from round the world.

I hope you enjoy reading this edition. Please feel free to make suggestions and get back to us with your comments.

Enjoy !

Annou Iyer Editor & Publisher E: annouiyer@rtwmag.com editor@rtwmag.com

The leading trade fair for intimates and beachwear fabrics.

19l20l21 Jan. 2013

Paris Expo - Porte de Versailles - Pav. 1

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RTW|Brand News CROCS A leader in innovative casual footwear for men, women and children, Crocs, Inc. Now launches shoes for every day, every season, and every occasion, with its new stylish and trendy designs that fit one’s every day needs, and comes with its signature comfort.

The men’s collection comes in a dual color combination, and the Crosmesh Hover Lace Up sneakers are lightweight and breathable. The womenswear collection comes in various styles ranging from peep toe to sandals, sneakers and hover boat shoes.

Crocs started its India operations in mid 2007. The brand now has a pan India presence with a reach of more than 300 doors at the wholesale level and a network of 21 concept stores, including in Mumbai, Delhi, Noida, Kolkata, Pune, Goa, Bangalore, Chandigarh, Chennai, Ahmedabad, Ludhiana, Amritsar and Jalandhar. The products are super lightweight, and are priced from Rs 2295 to Rs 3295.

DIAMONDERE.COM Diamondere.com, the only online jewellery selling website provides end to end mass personalization of European designs with an assortment of exquisite jewellery for all occasions. The jewellery portal showcases an array of delicate pieces in modern and traditional styles. Choosing from a wide range of designs that can be customized with dazzling diamonds and variety precious stones. The website provides a unique experience that guarantees customers 20% lower prices than a traditional retailer.

All the jewellery pieces available on the website will be exclusively manufactured in house which brings down the price considerably, making jewellery buying so much lighter on the pocket. Due to its online format, factors like middlemen, inventory and retail overheads are completely eliminated, bringing to the customers, personalized jewellery at the best prices!

GUCCI VIAGGIO The new Gucci Viaggio line is a relaxed yet ultra-chic capsule collection designed by Creative Director Frida Giannini to meet the modern globetrotters’ desire for highly versatile items. The line includes an extensive selection of ready-to-wear garments and accessories, for both women and men in a focused colour palette of black, ink and grey. The travel theme suggests a lifestyle-driven total look, ranging from outerwear and sportswear to knitwear and leather pieces as well as shoes, luggage and bags, silk accessories and gifts, all revealing an innovative “techno” appeal, enhanced by wrinkle free fabrics and multifunctional details. Designed as a year-round capsule collection, the line embodies the lifestyle of today’s smart and active travellers. The collection will exclusively be available at selected Gucci boutiques worldwide and on gucci.com from Fall 2012.

Brand News|RTW 13

DKNY Inspired by the beauty of the Apple Blossom, a flower that is both delicate and feminine with a strong hint of freshness; DKNY Be Delicious – Fresh Blossom is a vibrant fragrance that draws you in with its fresh and alluring scent. DKNY delightfully marries freshness, vibrancy and femininity to create a radiant new fragrance that opens, blooms and lingers on the skin. A peachy accompaniment to the Be Delicious line, this fragrance from DKNY is vibrant, radiant, feminine, floral and fresh with an air of innocent yet sassy playfulness. The iconic apple shaped bottle takes on a delicate, feminine, fresh pink cover that envelops the new core fragrance. The fragrance is available across all leading lifestyle stores in India and is priced from Rs 2,500 onwards.

MAYBELLINE EXPRESS FINISH The star nail colour, Express Finish from Maybelline New York has introduced 13 stunning new shades.

From turquoise to violet, fuschia to purple, mauve to khaki green, the new shades are funky as well as classic and come with a 40 second dry formula.

The nail paints are priced at Rs 200 onwards.

DIOR This season, the brand launches its range of timepieces that evoke the Haute Couture heritage of the House of Dior, based on timeless elegance. Dior VIII is a tribute to Monsieur Dior’s lucky number: like the eight characters in the name, 8 place Vendôme where the flagship for Jewellery and Horlogerie is located, VIII arrondissement for Avenue Montaigne and a roman numeral as a nod to architecture. The timepiece is a tribute to Christian Dior’s favourite colour, purple. The model is equipped with an automatic movement embellished with a lacquered oscillating weight matching the colour of the stones. The precious stone, Amethyst is chosen carefully in order to enhance the dial; the coloured circle on the dial uses a unique watch making technique called anodizing. The setting on aluminium offers a metallic effect with its intense colour. Symbolizing a talisman, Amethyst is set to brings luck and strength and is a symbol of happiness.

GEMSFIELD The magnificent wedding range highlighting Zambian emeralds by Gemfields, is delicately crafted into exquisite jewellery pieces in designs that capture the romance and purity of taking sacred vows. The bridal neck pieces and earrings with embedded emeralds capture the right mix of style, elegance, grace and poise of a modern day brides’ trousseau. Gemfields PLC, an AIM listed company, is one of the world’s foremost coloured gemstone producers and provides the market with reliable and ethically mined Zambian emeralds.

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RTW|Brand News FABERGÉ Fabergé, legendary jeweller synonymous with consummate artistry and craftsmanship, presents a collection of extravagant jewels - from sumptuous pearls and dazzling white diamonds to opalescent enamels - inspired by 1920’s styling and Great Gatsby glamour. The brand’s imperial pearls, comprising necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings simultaneously evoke the elegance and decadence of the Roaring Twenties and the lavish parties celebrated in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s famed novel. The collections are available at Fabergé boutiques in New York, London and Geneva, as well as at concessions within Harrods in London and Lane Crawford IFC in Hong Kong. Selected items are also available via Fabergé’s online boutique at Fabergé.com.

L’OREAL PARIS COLOR RICHE VERNIS

L’OR ELECTRIC

The brand launches a new range of nail polishes called Color Riche Vernis. The range is inspired by professional manicure UV and contains a breakthrough gel formula that results in dramatic colour with the ideal finish. Color Riche lets you choose from 26 shades that belong to the Essential, Shocking and Fatale ranges.

The Essential range consists of shades that are earthy and muted; the Shocking range consists of bright, fun colours that add spunk to your look; the Fatale range consists of deep, glamorous shades that are perfect for the alpha woman and the festivities. Priced at Rs 225, the range is available at all L’Oreal Paris counters across India.

The brand’s latest collection, L’Or Electric is a combination of bold pop colours and vibrant hues like electric blue and intense ruby that dominate the range. Psychedelic and electric, the range of lipsticks, eye shadow and liner is glamorous and high on fashion. The make- up range comprises of infallible mono eye shadow, Super liner luminizers, Instant Impact felt liner and the L’Oréal Paris signature lipstick, Color Riche, that combines luxurious colour with lasting hydration for an ultra-glamorous look. The range is available at all L’Oréal Paris counters across the country.

Brand News|RTW 15

LEE Lee’s latest A/W ‘12 collection offers a range to choose from mod, sporty, punk or urban wear for both men and women. These looks, straight from the Carnaby Street of London are individualistic and edgy. The collection keeps up with the tag of attitude and fresh style often associated with Lee. In addition to these, Lee has also launched their Luxury Shirts line, made of premium woven fabrics and inspired from themes such as Preppy Oxford, Superfine Twills, Luxury Solids and Indigo Blue. The key pieces of this collection include winter jackets, leather jackets, parka jackets, rolled up jeans, bright pattern button down shirts and fine gauge sweaters.

FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS

L’OREAL PARIS YOUTH CODE

Forevermark, the brand from De Beers group of companies has introduced a special range of stunning jewellery ranging from earring to pendants and bangles.

The exclusive collection is available in a range of exquisite contemporary designs including rings, pendants, bracelets and earrings.

Priced at Rs 70,000 onwards, the range is available in all major cities across India.

L’Oréal Paris Skin Expertise launches a new skincare product, Youth Code Luminize, that makes the skin even and luminous. L’Oréal Paris Skincare research has identified genes that are involved in regulating skin pigmentation, evenness and luminosity. The product contains LUMI-Gen technology which identifies light infusing genes in the skin and enriches them to give even and luminous skin.

The technology is a combination of Vitamin B3 which helps to reduce dark spots and lighten the skin.

The product is available at all L’Oréal Paris counters across India.

MATRIX Matrix, the fastest growing professional brand from the L’Oreal Professional Product division, launches Design Pulse, the new styling range to up your oomph factor with long lasting hairstyles with minimal effort.

The six different products under the range, are for all types of hair and includes a mix of in-salon and retail products. In India, Matrix is one of the most widely distributed professional hair brand that has partnered over 21000 salons and education over 45000 hairdressers. It offers an extensive portfolio of innovative, high quality products for hair care, hair colour, styling and texture.

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RTW|Brand News MAYBELLINE DREAM RANGE

MAYBELLINE BABY LIPS

Maybelline New York’s makeup collection, the Dream Range now includes Dream Lumi Touch Concealer to its existing range of Dream Liquid Mousse Foundation, Dream Matte Mousse Foundation, Dream Matte Pressed Powder and Dream Touch Blush. The concealer comes in a revolutionary pen format for easy application on the go and is available in 6 shades. Available at all MNY counters across the country, The Dream range are priced at Rs 475 onwards.

Maybelline New York launches a revolutionary lip balm, Baby Lips, in India.

The lip balm is a result of the brand’s fresh and innovative approach that constantly tries to empower women to look their best. The product contains a perfectly balanced blend of superior ingredients such as aloe, honey, a high percentage of shea-butter and a combination of essential vitamins. The lip balm comes in 7 different bright colours to lighten up your mood. The product is priced between Rs 125 to Rs 150.

MONTBLANC Montblanc pays tribute to the great virtuoso of the Romantic era with the creation of the Donation Pen Johannes Brahms Special Edition. Johannes Brahms was a worldwide acclaimed major composer, conductor and concert pianist. The handcrafted Montblanc masterpiece is complemented by details inspired by the fascinating world of classical music to which Brahms dedicated his life. With each purchase, 20 Euros from the fountain pen and 10 Euros from the ballpoint pen or rollerball will be donated to carefully selected cultural projects relating to classical music, thus supporting young artists worldwide. The Special Edition is available as in all exclusive Montblanc Boutiques across the globe.

D’DAMAS D’damas, Sangini, Gili and Diya Diamonds bring some of the best Wedding Collections to dazzle this wedding season. Priced from Rs 1,60,000 onwards, D’damas offers the Peacock inspired Wedding Collection that comprises of necklaces & earring sets, Bangles, nose pins, rings, and pendants set in gold. Sangini’s beautiful and intricate jewellery is priced at Rs 1,04,000 onwards. Gili’s elaborate wedding collection has been especially designed for a modern Indian women for her contemporary lifestyle. Priced at Rs 1,70,000 onwards, the jewellery is available at all Gili world and Gili counters in all major retail stores across India. The Wedding Collection from Diya Diamonds in exquisite designs of rings, nose pins, necklaces, pendants and bangles maintain the tradition the perfect gold and diamond ratio with low gold and high diamond content which makes them looks magnificent. The jewellery is priced at Rs 32,000 onwards. Available at all shop in shops in all major retail stores across India, the brands and their exclusive festive range is perfect for the wedding/festive season.

Brand News|RTW 17

PARX

PETER ENGLAND

Parx, the premium casual lifestyle brand for Gen-Next, from Raymond, India’s leading textile and apparel major, has launched two new additional product line of T-shirts.

Hot Tees are for those who want to express their freedom through their clothing. Racers Rendezvous, the sporty range highlights key attributes of racing with speed, power and style.

The hallmark of the range is the minute detailing that’s been taken care of, for all product categories. The collection is available at all exclusive Parx stores, The Raymond Shop, Central and other leading multi-brand stores across the country.

After meeting success in the apparel segment with over 8 million garments sold every year, the brand, Peter England is now diversifying into the category of accessories. The brand’s new offering is a new range of work and travel bags called Peter England Bags. This new luggage range features strong fabrics like 1680 density polyester jacquards and twills, completely sealed trims with reinforced stitching for strong seams and pressure points along with high-quality pullers. The products are aesthetically designed with a range that offers laptop Backpacks, laptop Cases, duffel Bags, one-dayers, sleeves and messenger bags and are priced at Rs 1099 onwards.

NEAUTROGENA The brand offers a complete solution for an oily, sweaty and dull skin that attracts impurities, dust and pollution from the atmosphere. The range includes products especially formulated for all skin care needs: Deep Clean Facial Cleanser, Oil Free Acne Wash, Deep Clean Blackhead Eliminating Scrub and Toner, Oil-Free Moisture Combination Skin, Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 50+ and Ultra Sheer Complete UV Moisture SPF 50+.

The products are available across India at select retail outlets as well as at Neutrogena’s flagship store at Grand Galleria mall in Mumbai.

PEPE JEANS LONDON Reflecting a very young and modern way of life with street inspired trends that mix to create a perfect cocktail; the Pepe Jeans London’s Spring Summer ’12 menswear collection offers a unique style that combines a contemporary wardrobe of layering-friendly essentials being lead by elements of the Union Jack. The Collection introduces a contemporary, chic and tasteful collection of high fashion and voguish designs, as well as international styles. Priced at Rs 1499 onwards, the Pepe Jeans SS ’12 collection is bright, colourful and optimistic and is available at Pepe Jeans London stores nationwide.

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RTW|Brand News POLICE

POND’S INSTITUTE

The brand, synonymous with contemporary style, introduces Police Wings Titanium , a new unique perfume for men. Wings takes pride in having a mixture of fragrances that can be used all day both during professional activities and more personal moments. This latest perfume takes its inspiration from a precious material with strong technological links and defines masculine elegance with an aromatic blend of Fougere, Fruity, and Woody notes. The result is a glamorous and sensual perfume, characterized by a fresh fragrance with musk touches that ideally delivers the characteristics of the Police man. The product is available across all leading stores in India and is priced at Rs 1900 for 50 ml and Rs 2600 for 100 ml.

The brand has extended their range of Pond’s Age Miracle product by introducing Cell ReGEN Facial Foam to counter dullness and to enhance the skin’s radiance. The facial foam is a unique combination of Intelligent Pro-Cell Complex, a system of vital Bio-Actives: CLA, Retinol, Two Retinol Boosters, Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) and Glycerin with gentle micro beads that come together and work wonders. The foam with its micro-exfoliation is specially formulated to deeply cleanse skin and help remove the dead cells and impurities to reveal visibly youthful skin. The product is now available in 100ml for Rs 215 at leading stores across India.

PUMA For A/W 2012, global sport lifestyle brand, Puma introduces a variety of fresh product styles across key categories such as performance, motorsport, lifestyle, women’s fitness and golf. This season also signifies the launch of evoSPEED, the performance collection that features product offerings for all Puma sport categories.

Inspired by Usain Bolt, the world’s fastest man, the collection answers every athlete’s need for speed by taking performance technology and innovations and incorporating them in footwear and apparel developed for cricket, team sport and motorsport.

PRECIOUS PLATINUM The latest platinum collection highlights the setting of precious stones, accentuating traditional designs. From beautiful pendants to elegant necklaces, inspired by floral, timeless, royal and Indian motifs, the featured platinum jewellery range starts from Rs 10,000 onwards and is available across authorized platinum retailers across cities. In order to assure consumers of the purity of platinum jewellery, Platinum Guild India Pvt. Ltd. has appointed Underwriters Laboratories, USA to audit and monitor its Quality Assurance Scheme. Under this scheme, all authentic platinum jewellery in India comes with a Quality Assurance Card and bears the purity hallmark of “Pt 950” stamped inside the piece. This also serves as an assurance of a ‘buy back’ programme.

Brand News|RTW 19

TOMMY HILFIGER

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Tommy Hilfiger’s latest A/W 2012 collection offers a lifestyle assortment of menswear and womenswear inspired by the adventurous spirit. The women’s collection is inspired by the preppy sporting life reconsidered with city sophistication. Championing classic looks with a modern spirit, versatility is key with A-line, mod shapes in rich colours and fabrics. The men’s collection is inspired by the lifestyle of a young cadet whose uniforms range from military prep to the sporting life, all infused with hints of rock influence.

The Overseas collection by Vacheron Constantin welcomes two new models combining a sporting spirit and technical Haute Horlogerie. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Chronograph model comes in an 18-carat pink gold version, while the Overseas Chronograph timepiece features a steel case framing a deep blue dial. Dedicated to both technical sophistication and aesthetic elegance, this new Overseas Chronograph model from Vacheron Constantin strengths the enviable stature acquired by the Geneva-based Manufacture in the field of Haute Horlogerie sports watches.

VICHY Vichy Laboratories introduces the path breaking Normaderm Total Mat, offering for the very first time, an antiperspirant technology into face care. To combat shine for a clean fresh complexion all day, Vichy Laboratoires has introduced the first skincare treatment in the first ever powder gel texture that neutralises all the causes of shine, even perspiration. Additionally, the powder gel texture offers a non greasy/ non sticky application for that ultra fresh feel and texture, withstanding even the most extreme conditions.

VICUNHA With DUO-D, Vicunha’s new line of coloured denim, the denim giant reveals a special twist: outer sides in classic blue or gray denim with different washes, with dyed colour reverse sides that create eye-catching hem or pocket details. The specially designed colour combinations are geared to the everyday, and lend the selected fabrics up-to-date charm. The boom in coloured denim drives product development at the brand’s office. In addition to its wide product range of coloured denim, with the DUO-D line, the brand demonstrates the diversity of applications and variants.

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RTW|Fashion News

A new retail identity in Bangalore Allen Solly unveiled its new retail identity, at 100ft Road Indiranagar, Bangalore, which takes inspiration from the brand’s strong Nottingham heritage which has been rendered in a very modern and contemporary manner.

A brief insight into the rich history behind the brand can be aptly highlighted through their adherence towards their strong British heritage. The Coat of Arms featured elements such as the Allen Solly Monogram, the Ram and the Stag, elements that represented the culture of the company and its products. The Ram was symbolic of the English wool industry and Allen Solly’s place within it while the Stag was representative of the city of Nottingham, wherein lays the brand’s roots. As per Sooraj Bhat, the Brand Head of Allen Solly, the new retail identity has been inspired from the Brand’s strong Nottingham heritage yet rendered in a very modern and contemporary manner. The brand has always led in setting trends, starting from launch of ‘Friday Dressing’ in 1993 to Western Wear for women in 2002 and now with the launch of the brand’s retail identity, the store is already setting records in footfalls and revenue. It is already growing in excess of 30% over last year with footfalls growing at more than 20%.

The products are fresh, vibrant and contemporary. A great range of shirts, tees, trousers, linens, and jackets add further credence to the brand’s friday dressing positioning.

Shivan & Narresh launch their Flagship store in Mumbai SHIVAN NARRESH, INDIA

The designers, best known for their modest cuts and bold usage of colour, launch their first store at Pali Hill in Mumbai. Since its inception, the Shivan & Narresh brand has aimed at making swimsuit become an active part of the Indian wardrobe providing confidence to Indian women through their ‘prêt’ and the ‘made to measure’ swimsuit services. The designer duo are the first mainstream beachwear designers doing 100% handcrafted stitchfree surfaced beachwear along with ready to wear swimwear.

After their successful point of sale in Delhi, the designers now have launched its flagship store at Mumbai, giving the fashionistas of the city more reasons to adapt to a resort lifestyle. The store has been conceptualised and designed by the creative director and Head Designer, Narresh Kukreja. Pali Hill as the store’s destination was selected for its resort like feel that it offers. The keyword ‘Leisure’ is kept in mind and the new store doubles the space as compared to the Delhi Flagship store. The swimwear is displayed like pieces of art, on specially crafted bikini resin hangers and dedicated spaces are allotted for an extensive accessory display from their latest collection. The signature minimalistic approach resonates in the interior details with light colours on the wall in the contrast with ivory leather cubic couches and brushed steel finishes. The unique window display will be in sync with the brand’s newsletters for the Shivan and Narresh loyalists. The store also offers a digital experience to shop through the brand’s previous collections and complete range of each season. The brand’s Customized Swimsuit Service and the bespoke limited edition, Handcraft segment makes its debut in the city, proposing the concept of swimsuits for everyone.

Fashion News|RTW 21

Technology and interactivity to provide customers the unique gucci experience...

Gucci recently announced the beginning of phase two of the Gucci Immersive Retail Experience, that coincided with the presentation of the S/S 2013 collections during Men’s Fashion Week in Milan. The cutting-edge technology has been developed by Gucci’s partner, OOOii, which is one of Hollywood’s leading technological innovators.

The technology will gradually be incorporated into Gucci’s flagship direct stores where customers will be able to enjoy unique, engaging digital interaction with the brand in-store. The fundamental support was provided by Gucci’s Information Technology Department, which contributed to developing and implementing this multi-channel approach, according to which brick-and-mortar stores and the virtual store, www.gucci.com will be able to offer similar, complementary shopping experiences. This phase two of the revolutionary the Immersive Retail Experience project, made its debut at the Gucci’s flagship Monte Napoleone store in Milan in June 2012 and now takes the form of a variety of engaging experiences. Five columns of super high resolution digital displays show images of the fashion show – three for the women’s show and two for the men’s show – located in the respective areas of the store. The displays are arranged so that they almost seem to form a single surface, which, together with the graphics engine provided by OOOii, are used to reproduce life-size interactive images, thus transforming the Monte Napoleone store into one of most technologically advanced boutiques in the luxury sector.

Digital Crystal Exhibition: Swarovski at the Design Museum Over the past decade, Swarovski’s design and architecture commissions have served as an experimental platform for leading figures in design to conceptualise, develop and share their most radical ideas. Building on this platform, the Design Museum and Swarovski are now challenging some of the most exciting talents in contemporary creativity to explore the future of memory in the fast-developing digital age in an exciting new exhibition that will run from 5 September until 13 January. 14 internationally renowned designers have been commissioned to create installations that combine complex technology and crystal to challenge our changing relationship with memory in the digital age. Explaining the central premise of Digital Crystal: Swarovski at the Design Museum, Deyan Sudjic, director of the Design Museum says: ‘The exhibition explores the meaning of memory in the digital age, with the demise of the analogue era our relationship and connection with personal memory, photographs, diaries, letters, time and ephemera is changing.’ Deyan continues: ‘The exhibition takes this as its starting point, to question the future and our relationship with the changing world’. In addition to specially commissioned pieces by a new generation of designers, the exhibition will also feature a select number of works from the Swarovski archives and by juxtaposing old and new, the exhibition offers up for debate the changing nature of our relationship with objects, and even with time.

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RTW|Fashion News

Ritu Beri eyes the Indian retail market Ritu Beri is one of the most well known designers in India, and amongst the first to make an international presence at Paris Fashion Week. From showcasing at the prestigious Paris Fashion Week to dressing up notable international celebrities, Ritu Beri has come a long way. She is the first Indian designer to head a French fashion house, Scherrer, when many Indian designers were dreaming of entering the Paris fashion scene.

Now Beri wants to look beyond designing and launch lifestyle boutiques to cater to everyone’s needs under one roof. She looks to opening such boutiques all around the world stocking everything from clothes, accessories to footwear, perfumes and food. She feels that both Indian and the western markets have great potential. The consumer in India looks for more detailing and follows trends whereas globally consumers are more versatile and experimental. “I continue doing my collections with a passion but I enjoy most doing challenging projects that I feel are worth my time.” She is currently in talks to bring her dream project into reality. Beri sells her creations through boutiques in France and Germany and a store in New Delhi. A graduate of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, the designer launched her label in India in 1990.

Introducing a wide range of Selvedge Denim Wrangler introduces the stylish range of Selvedge denims made on traditional narrow width shuttle looms.

Selvedge is derived from the term “Self-Edge”. It is the edge of woven fabric finished so as to prevent raveling, often in a narrow tape effect, different from the body of the fabric. Wrangler champions Selvedge denim setting a new standard in jeans making and reclaiming authenticity in denim. Known for their rich character, jeans with the selvedge stripe on the seam are typically the preserve of denim aficionados. The collection has

both genuine selvedge and selvedge inspired styling which brings to life the rich history of denim. The genuine selvedge is priced at Rs 3995 and the Selvedge inspired denim is priced between Rs 2495 and Rs 3195. A part of VF Corporation, the world’s largest apparel company, Wrangler has found a loyal consumer base in the Indian youth that swear by this unique fashion brand. This highfashion denim brand is available at exclusive stand alone stores, leading apparel stores and major department stores.

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Aamby Valley India Bridal Fashion Week 2012 in association with Azva The third season of the AVIBFW 2012 is scheduled to take place from September 12th to 17th, 2012 at Grand Hyatt, Mumbai. The event would serve as a platform to promote Indian bridal couture collections and facilitate interactions between designers and the end consumer. This six day fashion event will bring out the best in bridal couture on the Indian ramp. The event will see the participation of designers like Tarun Tahiliani, JJ Valaya, Pallavi Jaikishan, Ashima and Leena Singh, Meera and Muzaffar Ali, Narendra Ahmed, Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra, Vikram Phadnis, Rocky S, Shane and Falguni Peacock, Anjalee and Arjun Kapoor, Mandira Wirk and Jyotsna Tiwari to showcase the best of bridal couture design and trends for the upcoming season. To be opened by celebrated designer Tarun Tahiliani, this fashion extravaganza will end with a grand finale by the Indian couturier, JJ Valaya.

Tarun Tahiliani opens first boutique in Hyderabad The Tarun Tahiliani boutique, the first to open in Hyderabad, launched on 23th August 2012. The stand-alone store is located within the luxurious confines of an antique house on Banjara Hills, Hyderabad. The design and architectural build of the retail space was done by Tarun Tahiliani and Delhi based Shachi Atree, continuing the creative relationship of the designer and principal architect. The store has the same feel of a long narrow hallway in an old world house with inset hand knotted carpets, wooden textures, Osler chandeliers and most of all an easy timeless elegance that is impeccably finished, as are the clothes. The Banjara Hills store will carry the complete collection from the Tarun Tahiliani Design Studio and what it is best known for: Chikankari Sarees, drapes, concept sarees, Anarkali dresses, lehengas, sherwanis, Digital Prints etc. In addition, the store will also offer Tarun Tahiliani’s embroidered classics in chikankari, gota, resham, his Swarovski spangled sari’s and structured drapes for special occasion and bridal wear for both men and women. Launched in 1990, the designer’s creations are instantly recognizable for fine craftsmanship, superior finish and elegant styling and personifies his ideas of feminine beauty.

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Opening a flagship store in Hong Kong, the brand’s second largest store in Asia Located in Pacific Place, an upscale shopping mall in Hong Kong, the Roberto Cavalli store is a 320 square metre facility. The design of the store reflects the modern elegance and glamour of the Cavalli world. The material palette used for the boutique consists of finest materials, many of which have been exclusively produced for Roberto Cavalli in Italy. The space has been carefully divided into various sections, which emphasises the various product categories present in the store.

The store will also have a special VIP room, complete with unique evening dresses. The Pacific Place store will offer the women’s prêtà-porter collections, accessories, eyewear, perfumes, as well as the first appearance of men’s prêt-à-porter collections, kidswear and time-wear collections in Hong Kong. The new store represents the concept ‘global fashion store’ of the House, which has already been extended to other major fashion stores around the world such as London, Paris, Tokyo and New York.

Italian Jewellery brand Damiani plans entry in India After India hiked the FDI cap in single-branded retail from 51 per cent to 100 per cent, several international companies like UK-based shoe company Pavers England and Swedish home products IKEA expressed their interest to enter. Now joining them is the Italian jewellery brand Damiani. Recently, the brand has filed a proposal to the Foreign Investment Promotion Board (FIPB) in this respect. It is said that Damiani India has sought permission for single-brand retail business in collaboration with Damiani International BB, Italy.

Damiani opened its first outlet in New Delhi recently.

Founded in 1924, Damiani SpA, the parent company of the Damiani Group, is an Italy-based manufacturer of jewellery and high level luxury watches. The group has its presence in many major markets worldwide.

Globally, it operates through its fully owned subsidiaries and manages 32 direct and 50 franchised points of sale.

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WIFW’s Indo Dutch Fashion Collaboration Suneet Varma and the veteran Dutch Designer, Jan Taminiau collaborate to create an exclusive collection to be showcased during WIFW S/S 2013 edition. The designer duo will present their collection as a part of the Indo-Dutch fashion collaboration supported by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI). The Dutch government and FDCI have designed a three-year programme, which will work as a platform for knowledge exchange, inspiration, and network and opportunity development between the two fashion communities. The exclusive collection will be showcased at the opening day of the Spring/ Summer 2013 edition of the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) commencing on October 6, 2012.

For their collection, the designers will be bringing the best of both the cultures combined with their own sensibilities of design to create a melange of east and west. The collection is expected to be heavy on Verma’s drape and embellishments with a magnificent touch of Taminiau’s construction and unique style of structuring. Taminiau is known for his fascination for Indian embroidery and craftsmanship.

The couturier from Holland has incorporated the famous Saree draping and pleating techniques in many of his creations in the past. The 37-year-old Dutch designer commands a strong fan following amongst people like Princess Maxima of Netherlands and pop icon Lady Gaga. Born in 1964, Suneet Verma is one of India’s foremost couturiers. The designer is known to combine his strong design sensibility with meticulous craftsmanship to create ethereal and sophisticated creations for the women of today.

Europe’s largest Sneaker Convention Cologne will once again play host to Sneakerness, Europe’s largest Sneaker Convention in On October 6-7 2012, Located at Barthonia Forum, the event targets brands, retailers and consumers and will provide a space for meetings and business.

Sneaker news and rarities will be displayed and sold according to the event’s slogan: “Exhibit. Buy. Sell.”

Side events such as the new Lace Race contest finals as well as street art, music and an after party at Club Roxy will round out the program. Besides Cologne, the convention also takes place in Zurich, Vienna and Amsterdam.

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First sustainable retail space in Bangalore as well as india The brand is on the retail revolutionising mode with the opening of its first sustainable store in Indiranagar, Bangalore.

The store is locally developed, sourced out of India, and incorporates a number of revolutionary design elements to ensure that it meets the highest criteria for sustainability. This remarkable achievement is in keeping with the brand’s vision of being the most desirable and sustainable sport lifestyle brand. Poised to be the flagship store for Puma in India, the store is a global first for the brand. Conceived by Puma India in collaboration with the Puma EEMEA (Eastern Europe, Middle East & Africa) regional offices, the store is spread over a total of 5000 sq. ft and incorporates the elements of sustainability electrical installations, will function as a retail located on the upper the end of 2012. The organic (pesticide-free) range primarily sourced sustainable materials and For the first time in India, global ‘Bring Me Back footwear, apparel and

Who’s Next Prêt a Porter Paris takes over America The trend setter Parisian fashion trade fair, recently, took their bandwagon in a form of a moving showroom presenting the American agency, Transatlantic’s brands, as well as the leading trends for the summer 2013 that were introduced at the trade show’s current edition. With an aim to promote French fashion, this road show is planning to stop in 10 American cities. During the journey, the trailer is making news with parties and special events in the country’s major fashion cities and during leading fashion events such as MAGIC in Las Vegas and plans the same for the forthcoming NY Fashion Week. The retailers are being offered a “Privilege card” for a free access to the trade show and several special offers including a trip package at a special discount rate, free transfer between the airport and the trade show, access to the trade show’s VIP lounge, concierge service. The Galeries Lafayette, the leading international fashion department store and historical partner of Who’s Next, also takes part in this operation. The road trip started on 10th August 2012.

through innovative design, mechanical and and material selections. While the lower levels area, ‘The Puma Social Club’ cafe and bar will be floor and terrace, and will be ready to open by store will retail a range of merchandise made from cotton as well as Puma’s Wilderness Collection: a and produced in Africa using environmentally certified by the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF). the Sustainable Store also introduces the brand’s I:CO Program’ – an in-store recycling program for soft accessories.

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FASHION Trade Fairs & Events S/S 2013

Bread & Butter, Berlin, Germany

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Alta Roma Alta Moda

ROME

An edition devoted to tradition, innovation and quality, which, once again, confirms Altaroma not only as a reference point for the promotion of new creative talents but also as the ideal headquarters for new made-to-measure business opportunities...

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The 21st edition of AltaRomAltaModa was held from 7 to 11 July 2012 at Complesso Monumentale S. Spirito in Sassia. In addition to fashion shows, this year’s edition also hosted countless other events, also open to the public, thus giving life to a sort of “fashion district” for the entire duration of the show.

The event was also held at a number of other historic venues in Rome, including Trastevere and Eur. The most eagerly awaited appointment on the July 2012 catwalks was the 8th edition of Who is on Next?, the scouting project organized and created by Altaroma in collaboration with Vogue Italia, considered one of the most authoritative competitions for the scouting of new talents by the fashion community. This year’s event included 12 finalists whose work was judged by

a prestigious international committee, enriched, for this edition, by several new, important members. The designers put their creativity to the test and also matched their skills with the innovative materials provided by Alcantara S.p.A. Well-established historic Maisons such as Renato Balestra, Raffella Curiel and Sarli Couture were once again featured on the Altaroma events calendar. Special projects representing the new direction taken by Altaroma included the fifth edition of Limited / Unlimited, the project and showcase developed by Silvia Venturini Fendi. The event is proposed as an international platform on which designers have a chance to freely express their creativity. Sculptural, the theme of this edition boasted a mood that blended to perfection with the monumental

and architectural beauties of the city and the tradition of high fashion of which it is an inherent part. Twenty four designers participated in the July 2012 edition, including several of the most noteworthy, national and international names of a new wave of creative talents. This edition was further enriched by the partnership with two important international brands, Fendi and Valentino, who also showcased two outfits in line with the theme.

1. Who is on Next - Marco Bologna 2. Giuria W.I.O.N., Silvia Venturini Fendi & Suzy Menkes 3. & 7. Alta Roma Alta Moda Venue 6. Limited Unlimited

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ITALY

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Following its acclaim by the public and critics alike, Room Service, the project developed and curated by Simonetta Gianfelici for AltaRomAltaModa, created to present a selection of entirely Made in Italy collections.

Fifteen designers showcased here with all sharing the same common ideal, i.e. oldworld sartorial craftsmanship, the use of noble materials and painstaking attention to detail.

A.I Fair was a place, a series of ambiences and houses where 25 artist and artisans joined forces in a domestic exhibition. The underlying idea was to inform the public and sell products and ideas that have a history of authentic Made in Italy, with a particular skill of handcrafting, projected into the future, driven by creative genius. With a set-up consisting of salons, rooms and corners, designers of jewellery, garments and accessories displayed their work in an open space. Altaroma continues to enlarge its offer of prestigious, functional programmes, designed to be adapted to the various requirements and characteristics of different types of designers, artisans and creative talents while, on the other, consolidating its commitment and role, in support of the business opportunities of its target market.

As is customary, particular importance was also dedicated to the 9 final works and projects of the fashion academies and schools that train tomorrow’s young, up and coming designers: Accademia delle Belle Arti di Frosinone, Accademia Altieri, Accademia di Costume e di Moda, Accademia Creazioni Moda, Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori, Ied Moda, Accademia Koefia and the Ida Ferri Fashion School.

Rome and Altaroma continue to act as a backdrop to other not to be missed events such as fashion performances, installations and exhibitions, which are held during the course of Rome’s Fashion Week. The event also further involves the city and catwalk enthusiasts and qualifies as a medium that brings together different contemporary, cultural languages.

Proving to be the indissoluble link between entrepreneurial acumen, culture, creativity, today, Altaroma not only represents a trademark but, above all, a guarantee of identity for Rome.

Giada Curti

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1. 6 & 7. NU:S - La Moda Veste L Architettura 2. 3 & 5. Giada Curti 4. & 8. A.I Fair

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Bread & Butter

BERLIN

Europe’s biggest fair for street fashion rocks the international denim, urban & sportswear industry with an equally impressive brand showcasing...

The tradeshow for selected brands again exceeds the high expectations of the international denim & sportswear industry.

Themed as “The Rock”, the 27th edition of Bread & Butter fashion trade show took place in Berlin in the first week of July 2012. With the exhibitors mainly coming from Germany, France, Italy, Spain, England and The Netherlands, all the fashion areas at the fair, starting from D.O.C.K., Sport & Street, Street Fashion, Fashion Now, Style Society, and Urban Superior to the Denim Base, saw a huge inflow of visitors.

Providing a creative marketing and communication platform for selected brands, labels and designers from the progressive segment that is unrivalled throughout the world, Bread & Butter has managed to maintain its individual philosophy, its own brand culture and emotional setting. The highlight of the new concept this edition was the Temple of Denim, which housed an interesting installation, new denim labels and denim manufacturers, showcasing the whole production process of jeans-making from spinning, tailoring and cutting to washing and finishing. Apart from the brand presentations, B&B had an amazing series of entertainment, as always.

We present the B&B fashion trends seen at the July 2012 edition.

GERMANY

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Sport & Street

Back To Comfy Materials Subcultural boundaries are consciously crossed and experimentation is allowed for S/S 2013. The 90s provide the inspiration for more casualness, more attitude and intelligent irony. Capacious silhouettes, boldly printed logos on loose-fit shirts and caps are a nod to the roots of the hip-hop movement, luxury accessories are back. The garments display the finished finesse, visible functionality and plenty attention to detail. Camouflage and ethnic patterns come in exotic colour constellations and are mixing up all the rules.

Colours S/S 2013

Street Fashion

Educated Riots Materials The trend showcases Rebellion colliding with intelligence, an adulthood in youth culture that searches unconditional freedom and self fulfilment. Contrasts come together to form a new overall look, which combines Scandinavian smartness and university chic with rough grunge elements. Denim shorts are adorned with studs and striking details are paired with preppy college elements, striking accessories meet dark basic tones. While black is used as an expression for aloofness, playful highlights break into the hard core.

Colours S/S 2013

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Fashion Now

Spiritual Celebration Materials The influence of the late 60s brings out the essence of all hippie-esque flirtations that lie in the hearts of the young generation. But instead of merely continuing to adapt the style of the flower children of the past, we search for alternatives that expand our own horizons.

With a bow to the Indian metropolis Mumbai, vibrantly coloured spice colours, statement jewellery and large-format prints form a contrast to romantic details and pure white. It is the liaison between urban city flair and exotic metropolises.

Colours S/S 2013 Style Society

Sea Side Safari Materials The coming summer holds stories of foreign countries in store, and brings the lightness and ease of leisurely hours to the city. The Italian Riviera with its rich colours, swinging skirts, bustiers and cut-out details is a contrast to the sexy safari look of the Savannah. Sand tones and sleeveless silk blouses, light cashmere sweaters and asymmetric tops are paired with skin tight slit pants or innovative shorts. The many facets of the underwater world provide the inspiration with spring layering in aqua tones, neon highlights and accessories in mermaid style.

Colours S/S 2013

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Denim Base

Into the woods Materials There is a sense of calmness that returns back to a society. With ways to look for slowing down the pace, the trend takes us back to the origins where raw denim stands for a symbol for strength and authenticity. The extremely worn-out jeans look is a reminder of outdoor adventures.

Landscape moods are translated into colour gradients through dip-dye techniques and form extreme contrasts.

The appearance of white denim comes very close to that of pure cotton fibres and celebrates the roots of the most democratic clothing item of all time.

Colours S/S 2013 Temple of Denim

The Future is now Materials The area is a homage to the inexhaustible diversity of the most popular garment in pop culture, the centrepiece of our wardrobe: jeans. As an integral part of modern life, denim is omnipresent; the most diverse dyeing methods, finishing techniques and washes form the basis for the metamorphosis of this piece of clothing. Instead of focusing attention only on the surface, the focus is now being placed on every facet of the production. It is the synergy between tradition and innovation that creates space for a creative playing field.

Colours S/S 2013

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Treasury

Little Luxuries Materials

Little things in life such as candles and fragrances, paper items and design mugs, knitwear and leather, urban gifts, high-tech products, glasses and jewellery – outfits are rounded off with accessories where practical meets imaginative trinkets.

Urban Superior Women

City Warrior Materials During the twenties, it was Coco Chanel and Marlene Dietrich who were paving the way for us to confidently blur the borders of gender roles prescribed by fashion. What was regarded as provocation then, today is an integral part of womenswear as masculine influences merge with feminine elegance to create a self-confident look. Toughness is combined with fragility of romantic details and robust accessories. Slim slit-pants, transparent materials and prints complete the look of this urban heroine.

Colours S/S 2013

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Urban Superior Men

Gentlemen’s Delight Materials The paradoxical optimism of the roaring 20s is celebrates a comeback. The modern gentleman defies every form of tristesse with hedonistic glamour and is openly celebrating the finer points of fashion. Standing out instead of blending in, both in everyday life and in one’s choice of clothing. Stylistic finesse, a wealth of colour and classic accessories are being added to the Scandinavian elegance of previous seasons. Everything revolves around perfection – more layering, more variety of fabrics and a lot more daring.

Colours S/S 2013

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Time Revolution Materials The best materials and tailoring form the basis of the look, while fabric mixes and colour gradients set extravagant accents. Sneakers made from highquality Cordovan leather are combined with “waterless” washed jeans – the ideal balance of tradition and innovation. The rich colour palette adds to the holistically coordinated look of the technology-savvy gentleman, making it fit for the summer. A creation process where every stitch, every length, every component is carefully considered.

Colours S/S 2013

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Interfilière

PARIS

Exploring the sun driven and cosmetic textile markets, Interfilière Paris drives the intimates industry forward...

With 300 exhibitors from 32 countries presenting a high quality range, fuelled by innovation and creativity, Interfilière Paris has earned its status on the international scene as the industry show for intimates and beachwear manufacturers. Despite a lower attendance figure, 11,431 visitors attended the show with 68% travelling in from abroad.

COSMETIC TEXTILES Cosmetic textiles, with an International Symposium organised in collaboration with the Fédération de la Maille et de la Lingerie, brought together a series of experts who are ideally-placed to offer visitors an insight into this growing market.

The symposium will continue in the form of an “Interactive

information centre and think-tank” to find out more about the subject and a “Cosmetic textiles tour” to identify exhibitors who work in this sector.

Innovation and creativity were on the agenda at the trends forums, each with their own creative and fun atmosphere, and this session’s General Forum featured a colour palette that was definitely good enough to eat! Within the context of its future oriented studies and research into the beachwear industry, the Beachwear Forum, in collaboration with Newcastle’s Northumbria University invited reflection on the swimsuit of tomorrow, presenting the latest generation of prototypes, created using new technologies such as seamless, laser cutting as well as digital printing.

7 SECTORS AT THE FAIR Lace it: lace Brod’cust: embroidery Neoskin: knits, wovens, prints and embellishment Access Folies: haberdashery and accessories Hi’Tech: fibres, yarns and machines Intimates and beachwear by Fatex: production capacities Creative lab: trend offices and textile designers

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FRANCE

WINTER 13/14 COLLECTIONS AND SUMMER 14 PREVIEW

INTERFLIÉRE PARIS, SALON

Cosmetic textiles and shape wear are continuing to make headway, holding considerable ground in collections, whether intimates or beachwear. The slimming market is a buoyant one and technologies are being combined to produce high performance and long-lasting products.

Ecology remains a sure value, boosted by companies which have fully integrated it within their strategies, making their pact with the planet.

Cool in summer and warm in winter Breathable fabrics are leaving the sportswear domain and moving into intimates and beachwear. Even accessories are now taking advantage of this property, which often goes hand-in-hand with antibacterial qualities. Making short work of moisture, odours and allergies: the quest for

100% wellbeing has begun!

Accessories are not taking a backseat, vying with ingenious ways of enhancing comfort. A great deal of creativity is also used when embellishing intimates and swimwear, pulling out the stops for optimal seduction.

NANJING REYPING TEXTILE

WILLY HERMANN

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ROCLE BY ISABELLA

PIZVAL

BILLON-CREALYS

CATLAND

PIAVE MAITEX

TESSITURA TAIANA VIRGILIO

MOKITEX

WU TONG LACE

SHUN LI TEXTILE

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Eclat de Mode

PARIS

Consolidating its position as a specialist show dedicated to the fashion jewellery universe, the fair is the perfect venue to gauge the trends of new design, material and technology...

The latest session of the show attracted 10,272 visitors, representing 84 nationalities, also attracting exhibitors representing some 500 brands from 40 countries, with a 50/50 split between French and international exhibitors.

The attendance and participation consolidates Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca’s position as “the” international trade event for the jewellery industry.

Over 4 days, the edition allowed fashion and fine jewellery, watch, gold, ready to wear and gifts retailers, department store buyers and buying offices to discover 400 designers of fine and fashion jewellery from around the world. A unique and welcoming venue for exchanges between buyers and designers at the heart of Paris, the capital of fashion, Eclat de Mode

also allows visitors to draw inspiration from future trends displayed through its original events.

The number of visitors from Asia rose significantly with a marked increase in visitors from certain European countries such as the UK and +45% from the Czech Republic, while visitor numbers for the rest of Europe (East and West) remained stable. There were also sharp rises in visitors from duty free shops, concept stores, museum and gallery shops, and central purchasing departments.

The exhibitors brought together a huge diversity of top-of-the-line products that are rare to find under one roof. In particular, leading companies exhibited jewellery of superb craftsmanship and unique design that its country is famous for.

The show was divided into the following sectors: • Fine Jewellery (40%) • Fashion, Designer and Couture Jewellery, Fashion Accessories (55%) • Jewellery supplies: pearls, gemstones and beads, clasps, chains, etc. (5%) Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca is the must-attend event where designers, emerging brands and established international labels alike can: • Showcase their new collections within a fashion environment • Increase their visibility among French and international contacts • Sell their collections to international buyers

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Visitors can preview the new jewellery collections and get the low-down on emerging trends in its respective dedicated spaces such as the Precious Gallery and Fashion Trends area. They are also invited to check out the other trenddriven events, flagged as the Coups de Projecteurs (Spotlights), including the Sheriffs de Mode (Fashion Sheriffs) awards and the two new exhibitions, My house is so precious organised by Richard Martin, the art director of the fair, and Gold Rush by HÊlène Georget, the French illustrator and artist. These events are strategically designed to provide an entertaining and informative contribution to the visitor experience, helping exhibitors to showcase their products and buyers to find exactly what they are looking for.

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Fatex

PARIS

Gaining prominence as the unique European sourcing platform, Fatex is shaping up as a highly professional, business focused fair...

Business was brisk at this summer’s June / July 2012 edition of Fatex, the international fashion and accessories subcontracting trade show. The show, which took place from 30 June to 3 July 2012, attracted genuine buyers from specialist chains, brands, department stores, distance sellers, supermarkets and ready-to-wear labels.

54% of these buyers came to place orders and 14% to choose samples, indicating that sourcing trade visitors had planned their visit to the show in advance. Visitors met suppliers with specific projects which they entrusted to the know-how of the 200 exhibitors from China, India, Bengal, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Belgium and France.

The second key reason to visit the event is to seek new manufacturing partners: visitors come to plan their key pieces at the

best prices, build up a ‘stock’ of companies with the capacity to create their future collections, and be inspired by product ideas, techniques and specialist trends such as cashmere, cotton, denim, knits, socks and tights, embroidery and flock printing, to name but a few.

This summer’s show received high quality visitors, 60% of whom were regular visitors.

Large volume orders were confirmed with exhibitors from more or less all countries present at the trade fair. The wide range of apparel and fashion supply sources were well received, with requests focused on both price and on the quality of the fashion products on offer. Although exact sales figures aren’t usually disclosed, the Bangladeshi pavilion intimated that it alone had generated over 8 million Euros worth of contracts.

Despite this success with its core market, the fair saw a 19% decline in overall attendance at this session, with fewer French buyers in particular. This is undoubtedly due to the overall decline in textile and apparel consumption in recent months and the consequent change of practice among the retail chains. For example, the partial shift away from long distance sourcing by retailers in favour of local imports of smaller, short production runs, and the fact that retailers now have permanent offices in the majority of these countries.

International visitor numbers varied, with visitors from Belgium up 16%, Italy up 8% and the United Kingdom up 6%, while there were fewer buyers from Spain and Germany than at the last session. The top 5

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coutries remained Belgium, Italy, Spain, the United Kingdom and Germany.

Mr Rakesh Sood, Indian Ambassador to France, also attended the fair, along with Mr A.B.M. Abul Kashem, the Minister Counsellor to the Bangladeshi Embassy in Paris, who came to greet and promote apparel, accessory and household textiles companies from their respective countries, India and Bangladesh.

Due to in-depth selection process, this 2012 show was a hit with buyers, due to its exhibitors’ expanded range of high fashion products. This session’s exhibitors included more and more shapes, colours and materials influenced by global trends in their collections, branching out from the more basic pieces offered when first starting out.

Several exhibitors showcased attractive products such as exclusive designs, stunning

finishings (such as perforated leatherette, silk lace and coloured, creatively crafted faux fur) as well as new materials for accessories.

The participating exhibitors are becoming increasingly specialised, which in turn attracts higher-end buyers.

While India continues to lead the way in cotton and silk tops and shawls, not forgetting its embroidery, which is always a big draw for buyers, its exhibitors have now also successfully branched out into denim. Confirming the study on global sourcing by the Fédération de la Maille et de la Lingerie unveiled at Zoom in February, Bangladesh successfully played to its economic advantages, presenting a more comprehensive home textiles offer that attracted a lot of business and was a hot topic at the show.

Hong Kong, France and Belgium exhibited with highly specialised footwear and children’s wear offers manufactured abroad. Montagut, the celebrated French apparel label, which is now popular in China, was also promoting its advanced expertise in knitwear.

The world at your fingertips The illuminated planet Earth overlooking the show’s main aisle set the tone for this summer’s edition, outside the EuroMed zone. Touch screens providing facts and figures about textile trade between Europe and China, India, Hong Kong, Bangladesh and Indonesia topped off the comprehensive range of services such as quality control, business set-up, etc. on offer at the show, coupled with its highly professional focus and warm welcome.

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Modefabriek Combining experimental as well as consolidated styles, Modefabriek demonstrates optimism with its avant-garde fashion presentation...

AMSTERDAM

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Twice a year, the Amsterdam RAI becomes the bustling centre of both the national and international fashion world. Founded in 1996 as a trendsetting experiment, Modefabriek has since become a two-day fashion event of international stature that cannot be missed.

The success of the source of inspiration for every fashion professional, lies in the progressive and high-quality character of the fair, in which innovation and creativity predominate.

With a mission to be an innovative and outstanding business to business tradeshow for labels that distinguish themselves by uniqueness, quality and continuity, the fashion tradeshow of the Benelux is more than a vast collection of brands under one roof. Modefabriek today has become a

showcase of new fashion directions and international avant-garde designer talents.

The show presented 600 participating brands, that were an eclectic selection of young talents composed a mix of sophistication and clean lines showed by Scandinavian brands. More than 15,400 fashion professionals visited Modefabriek on 17 and 18 July 2012, a rise of 4% as compared to last summer’s edition. The mood amongst exhibitors and visitors at the largest fashion trade fair in the Netherlands was extremely positive, and retailers were particularly enthusiastic about the increase in the number of suppliers.

As a part of its creative DNA, the fair visitors are treated to unique events and presentations; ranging from spectacular catwalk shows and music performances

to high-end platforms for newly graduated talented designers, fresh new labels and internationally acclaimed designers. In order to offer clarity and to ensure that the more than 600 brands presented are easy to locate, Modefabriek offers a unique segmentation on lifestyle, brand image and distribution with five areas.

Each segment of Modefabriek has its own specialized platform, strenghtened by its unique identity. Platforms are created due to a longing need for specialism and to extend profundity towards each segment.

MINT Mint is a new trade show area as a part of Modefabriek. The area is strategically located at the main entrance of Modefabriek and is designed and decorated in an open, inviting

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and design-inspired way. The open stands are positioned around the lively centre of the Mint zone and offers the latest in the field of forward fashion, design and lifestyle to lure Modefabriek visitors in.

REFINED+ Refined+ is the platform for the most luxurious and progressive labels from home and abroad. This carefully collected mix of renowned designers and high-end fashion brands has an air of allure and exclusivity.

The area offers inspiration on the latest fashion trends in the business of fashion.

BLUEPRINT The Blueprint area is for those brands that have a strong emphasis on jeans in their collection. Jeans is at the core of their

identity. As a trade-show for high-end quality denim and streetwear, this is the area where small denim brands like the Belgic Eat Dust, the Pike Brothers from Germany and Dutch brand Benzak Denim Developers have a chance to blend with well-established ones like Wrangler, Lee and Nudie Jeans.

In an area specially designed for this innovative sector, rugged and rudimentary materials combine with open and modern architecture.

DECO The platform is a successful partnership between Deco Brand & Retail Management and Modefabriek. This progressive podium is exclusively dedicated to special men’s fashion. The focus is on high-quality, exclusive and leading collections for today’s men.

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The Brandery

BARCELONA

An interesting show format that combines creative trends such as art, music and design, which inspire and yield benefits in the fashion phenomenon...

The Brandery is a unique event, open to public as well as for business professionals, retailers, cool hunters, bloggers, illustrators and international buyers who come together for a consolidated event full or concerts, workshops, exhibitions, conferences and speed dating sessions between emerging brands and international buyers.

Held in July 2012 over three days, the fashion shows of the 30 brands, such as Superdry, Replay, Love Therapy, Custo Barcelona, Veneno en la Piel, Ian Mosch and Slazenger, concerts, workshops, exhibitions, conferences filled up the halls of Montjuïc Exhibition Centre. The 7th edition of the show is now emerging to be a global platform that features all aspects of fashion.

Speed Dating Sessions The 141 speed dating sessions between brands and international buyers held at the last edition yielded an average of 3 orders per buyer. The results of this experience have allowed The Brandery to continue organising these sessions. At this edition, 92 exhibitors (20% of them foreign from Italy, France and the United Kingdom) presented their collections during 150 sessions with international VIP buyers. The list of new buyers at the show included Gruppo Coin, Italian leader in fashion retail, Bestmarques. com, one of France’s most dynamic online sales channels, RDV Int. Business, which specialises in opening up the market in China for Spanish companies, and the Polish company Carry Sp.Zo.O. They were joined by the regular buyers that participated in

the sessions, with The Brandery exhibitors, such as Buy VIP, El Corte Inglés, Iskoa, Love Therapy (Italy), Rico Sardelli, Drop and Group Beaumanoir (France).

Ethical consumption and Pop-up stores in The Laundry Conferences for company owners and retailers on new sales strategies, the evolution of fashion shops up to the pop-up store, analysis of the new ethical consumption paradigm and how and where to export in order to mitigate the effects of the drop in domestic consumption, were some of the topics that were debated within the setting of The Laundry. It also hosted the conference Elio Fiorucci: 40 years of art, design, fashion and show business by the legendary founder of Fiorucci, the first brand to specialise in casual wear Made

SPAIN

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in Italy that triumphed in the 70s and 80s in the United States because of its irreverence and transgression. The ideas laboratory also proposed talks on summer 2013 trends and on new communication and marketing strategies, from cross-media to sensory marketing.

Brandtown: Melting pot for Trends In addition to the fashion shows, the Brandtown open to the general public, provided the setting for various activities, such as exhibitions that highlighted the complicity between fashion and art, and workshops organised by the city’s best design schools. The Brandtown were also where brands such as Replay, Superdry and Custo Barcelona interacted directly with the target public, in order for them to transmit their own values in an innovative and

dynamic manner, through contests, games and even master classes. Music also had a privileged place in the show, with interesting concerts providing a high-end soundtrack to fashion.

Barcelona, more fashionable than ever In order to involve the entire city in fashion for a few days, The Brandery was present in one of the main areas of the city, Paseo de Gracia, with the exhibition Remakes, cuando el cine encontró la moda (Remakes, when cinema met fashion), by the photographer Manuel Outumuro, and with fiestas and events that took place in symbolic establishments, such as The Sutton Club and Café Berlín. Another of the activities that filled the city with fashion was the window-dressing contest Windows on…I’m a Brander.

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Pitti Immagine

FLORENCE

Offering an awesome sense of luxury, Pitti Uomo continues to make strong statements with its menswear fashion presentations...

ANDREA POMPILIO. SPECIAL EVENT PITTI UOMO

With an emphasis on luxury and subtle detailing with regular flashes of colour, the men’s fashion took off in Florence with 17,800 buyers over the four days of the event, with around 7,400 foreign buyers and 10,400 Italians.

Numbers • 1065 brands / collections at this edition • 75 women’s brand at Pitti W • 390 of which are from abroad (36,62% of the total) • 59.000 square meters • 32000 visitors • The main foreign markets: Germany, Spain, Japan, The Netherlands, UK, China, France, Turkey, South Korea, Swiss, Belgium, Russia, Austria, United States, Portugal, Greece, Hong Kong and Sweden.

Today, Pitti Uomo stands as the singular most important menswear event. Buyers from the world’s most important retailers, large and small, as well as more and more of the great names in international fashion are turning to Pitti Uomo for the platform it offers to present special projects and new collections, and to launch their global marketing strategies at the start of each season.

Attracting top buyers and international press in phenomenal numbers, the 82nd edition of Pitti Uomo, amongst the foreign markets, registered a very good the performance of Japan (+30%), Russia (+20%), the USA (+10% in the sales outlets), Turkey (+12%), a light increase for the United Kingdom, China and Korea offered more sales outlets and less people, Hong Kong and Taiwan, Poland and Ukraine remained

stable while there was an increase from Brazil, India, South Africa and Mexico; and a decrease for Spain, Greece, Portugal, Belgium and Swiss. The 10th edition of Pitti W had an atmosphere of satisfaction and optimism with 75 new collections presented at this edition.

The main pavilion at Pitti Uomo became a nursery for contemporary lifestyle trends, and the showcase for innovative styling embodied the fair’s identity as it continues to feature the ongoing developments in menswear and contaminations among different schools of design. And, each edition reinvents the rules of this exhibition game. The Touch! area showcased visionary and cutting edge style - a refreshing mix that brought an eccentric touch to new and sophisticated interpretations of the

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ITALY

FIERA BASSETTI

RAFFAELLO NAPOLEONE, CEO, OF PITTI IMMAGINE

traditional – boasting a waiting list of exhibitors that gets longer and longer with each season. Rediscovering craftsmanship, Make area presented most diverse materials and forms for man’s fashion with one-of-a-kind items or small series, with emphasis on skill and fine details all in a fresh key in tune with the contemporary scene. Staged in special areas on the Fortezza da Basso and Dogana grounds, Alternative Set is a program of temporary events and installations that were staged for testing new communications and promotional methods and to make full creative use of new technologies. The events were presented by a select group of designers devoted to research: some of whom are the young talents discovered at previous editions of Pitti Uomo.

THE JURY AT WHO IS ON NEXT EVENT AT PITTI UOMO

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VALENTINO, SPECIAL EVENT AT PITTI UOMO 82

VALENTINO, Special Event at Pitti Uomo 82 Valentino presented its Spring/Summer 2013 Men’s collection with a fashion show.

Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli chose Pitti Uomo to showcase their men’s collection in Italy because of its linkage to the idea of the contemporary craftsmanship of couture and Florence, that is synonymous in the memory of men’s elegance excellence. The presence of Valentino at the event proves that Pitti Uomo as an platform and Florence as a city, together, are a winning combination for international projects that are of quality for men’s fashion.

CARVEN, Pitti Uomo 82 Guest Designer Part of the Pitti Uomo mission is to bring the leading names in contemporary fashion to Florence. For this edition, the fair invited Carven, the French fashion house as the Guest Designer to be featured at Pitti Uomo 82. Guillaume Henry, the designer whose

CARVEN, PITTI UOMO 82 GUEST DESIGNER

retraced its history dedicated to textile research and experimentation, recounting not only a part of the history of sportswear related fashion, but also of the fitful research into fabrics and their treatment as finished garments. The retrospective included more PETER PILOTTO, Pitti W 10 Guest Designer The special guest at Pitti W was Peter Pilotto. than 200 garments from the archives, with the countless treatments production and The fashion brand created by the eclectic designing duo of Peter Pilotto and Christopher processes that contributed to their creation.

Some of the innovative treatments presented De Vos, started out on London’s catwalks were fabric coatings, resin coatings and and is gaining a worldwide following thanks plating, to the study of the refraction of light to a strong style identity and highly creative and investigations into thermo-sensitive collections. The designers staged a special project for Florence and Pitti W, at the special textiles. From the more particular garment dyeing and double dyeing techniques, to venue of Palazzo Borghese. the effects and dynamics of under pressure dyeing and to the garments in fabrics foreign STONE ISLAND 30, hosted by Fondazione to the fashion world, such as those originating Pitti Discovery in the aviation or biomedical industries. The Celebrating 30 years of its brand brand also presented Archivio 1982–2012, history dedicated to textile research and the book that tells the brand with more than experimentation, the Italian brand, Stone Island opened up its magnificent anniversary 300 iconographic images of garments from the archives. exhibition at Pitti Uomo. The exhibition creative research over the past few seasons has come to the attention of the international fashion community, presented his men’s collection in Florence for the very first time.

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PETER PILOTTO, PITTI W 10 GUEST DESIGNER

STONE ISLAND 30

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Who’s Next Prêt A Porter Paris

PARIS

Ending on a successful note, the Parisian tradeshow reports a positive outcome With a strong attendance from international exhibitors as well as buyers...

Held in June 2012, at the Parc des Expositions, Porte de Versailles, the fair, WNPAPP saw a showcase of 2000 brands divided into 6 creation areas of the fair over its four day event. The confirmed numbers for the exhibitors are 200 brands in the Fame area, 600 in Private, 600 in Premiere Class, 300 in Mr. Brown, 200 in Mess Around and 100 in Le Cube.

The Show organizer, WSN Development, is now taking the French trade fair to USA in partnership with TRANSATLANTIC, the French fashion and art of living designers’ New York business agent and the GALERIES LAFAYETTE Paris where this Paris trade show will be meeting up with 500 independent American retailers and initiating a new type of promotion.

The entire offer, based on eclecticism

was a well organized mix in a consistent and complementary way, according to the product type and range.

Here’s a little foretaste!

PREMIERE CLASSE, A TREASURE-FILLED AREA The area is oriented around three sectors: shows, jewellery and bags but also features hats, scarves, belts, umbrellas and gloves.

The product mix offering a sharp selection of commercially successful and creative products, inspired the buyers from all over the world.

JEWELS: COMPLEMENTARITY & CHANGE 120 brands and designers including BABYLONE, PHILIPPE AUDIBERT, HERVÉ VAN DER STRAETEN, RÉMINISCENCE, LES

NÉRÉIDES on one side, HAOSHI DESIGNS, ULI RAP, EAR&TEAR or LOTOCOHO on the other... Experimented exhibitors acting as chaperons for young and developing brands.

BAGS: 250 BRANDS AND DESIGNERS AT PREMIERE CLASSE & LE CUBE Both areas at Premiere Class and Le Cube neighboured to meet the buyers’ expectations for the latest trends in bags.

Le Cube focussed on leather and men’s collections, gathering small leather goods designers, luggage and accessory manufacturers as well as bag brands.

SHOES: BETWEEN DESIGNER BRANDS AND TIMELESS BASICS With no less than 200 shoe brands altogether, there was a good synergy between PREMIERE CLASSE and MESS

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AROUND. A mostly feminine offer mixing creativity with brands, while answering the needs of all types of buyers such as multibrand boutiques, shoe stores and readyto-wear retailers, Mess Around highlighted the dynamism and showcased the best.

MENSWEAR: A RICH OFFER While fashion professionals rush to Paris for the men’s Fashion Week, WHO’S NEXT Prêt-à-Porter Paris and its special area, MR. BROWN, introduced 300 men’s and urban brands including 75 new ones, from 21 countries. Asserting itself as the essential platform for masculine creativity, this area, presented middle to top-of-the-range of men’s collections with the aim to offer a modern vision of the new masculine figures and style mixes.

URBANWEAR: DENIM, STREETWEAR AND LIFESTYLE SPORT The Urbanwear offer was richer than ever

this season with presence of international brands in the Denim and Streetwear areas.

Altogether, close to 150 brands presented in exclusive preview, including the SS 2013 collections of New Era, Manhattan Portage, Mustang jeans, Guess footwear and GAS jeans.

FAME & PRIVATE : THE FIRST WOMENSWEAR EVENT ON THE FASHION CALENDAR The fair also hosted two essential events for women’s fashion: FAME and PRIVATE. 800 brands from 20 different countries took part in these two major international events.

The selection in the FAME area featured 200 exclusive international womenswear labels. Fifteen designers reflecting the current trends, presenting original and strong collections, gathered in an area called FAME ATELIER, while young fashion designers, previously dispatched around

the whole area gathered in FRESH, an area welcoming 25 new designers.

With 600 brands of leading womenswear labels, PRIVATE area has been quite unique on the fashion trade show scene. This selection of contemporary yet businessoriented collections, featuring both distinctive and high-quality products, reflected the season’s key trends. It also had a special area that was devoted to evening wear in a wide variety of styles with short cocktail as well as gowns.

JAPANESE FASHION TAKING OVER With the support of JETRO, the Japanese organization promoting foreign trade, 21 menswear, womenswear, urbanwear, accessory designers and fashion brands presented their collections at WNPAPP. For the organization in charge of promoting foreign exchanges and investments, the fair was an unprecedented event.

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Show Report

Pankaj & Nidhi

BEST OF

RTW LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK F/W 2012-13

FUTURE DATES: LFW Summer/Resort 2013 22 - 26 March 2013 at the Grand Hyatt, Mumbai.

Pankaj & Nidhi

Opening new opportunities and paving the way for new talent, Lakmé Fashion Week ushered in new talent and expanded its reach by tapping buyers from across the country to promote Indian craftsmanship and facilitate trade for designers....

Lakmé Fashion Week witnesses trajectory growth this Winter/Festive 2012 with a registered number of 220 buyers. As the country’s one of the leading trade and fashion platform, Lakmé Fashion Week ushered in new talent and expanded its reach by tapping buyers from across the country to promote Indian craftsmanship and facilitate trade for designers. The Winter/Festive 2012 witnessed a remarkable growth in the number of buyer registrations from across the globe with a total of 220 buyer registrations that included 175 domestic and 45 international buyers. A platform that functions as a creative and trade outlet to showcase innovative designs from around the world, LFW has established itself as a strong networking ground for designer and buyers to collaborate and build relationships. LFW Winter/Festive 2012 saw an exponential growth of participating designers and greater business opportunities for buyers as well. Lakmé Fashion Week this season also announced Gaurang Shah as the winner of the LFW Heritage Award- a cash prize of One Lakh rupees for the designer who best incorporated Indian textiles in their collection for Indian Textile Day. The winner was selected by a prominent jury of Jaya Jaitly, Maximiliano Modesti, Krishna Mehta and Anjana Sharma.

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ANITA DONGRE Aptly titled ‘Urban Goddess’, Anita Dongre’s collection is a tribute to the modernday Indian woman, who embodies grace, elegance symbolic of her sorority but works at par with men. Anita gives her creations a unique touch by adding the elegant weaves of Benares to the intricate designs of Andhra Pradesh's Ikat blended with colourful vegetable dyed block prints from Gujarat.

Western silhouettes such as quintessential ball room gowns, pencil skirts in varying lengths, skinny trousers, sheer blouses with billowy or dolman sleeves and unstructured jackets, all flaunt an ethnic touch in the form of resham embellishments, traditional gold motifs or rich embroideries in silver, gold, zari and sequins.

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BHAIRAVI JAIKISHAN

Bhairavi presents intricate techniques, colours and silhouettes, keeping the focus on cocktail, evening and bridal wear. Her trademark, ornate saris and lehengas along with the very unique lehenga-sari are showcased.

Rich festive shades highlight the silhouettes that are traditionally classic; restricted to the favourite options as contrasts appear for saris and blouses with dramatic necklines that resemble jewelled neckpieces. Bhairavi remains partial to floral motifs for the embroidery as well as pencil lines of sequins or diamond shapes in zari.

Detailing comes in the form of scalloped sequin borders for the saris and badla work for the lining and lehengas.

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DEBARUN MUKHERJEE Debarun’s collection titled 'Omnipresent' highlights the spiritual connect that each Indian shares with the deities. Layered lehengas, saris with a hint of fusion, long shararas, mandarin collar tops, dhoti skirts and asymmetric long tops with bell sleeves form an eminent part of the collection.

Inspired by the Iznik tiles of Turkey, the patterns are emphasized on a base of black and beige. The interesting surface texturing and embellishments add to the carefully chosen weaves of Bhagalpur with a smattering of tussore, matka, katan and monga silks. With embroidered sherwanis, tussore waistcoats and embellished coats, Debarun’s men get a lot of options to choose from.

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DEEPIKA GOVIND

Deepika Govind collection brings to life, the ancient art of double Ikat weaving in western Indian state of Gujarat, through her usage of the famous Patan Patola fabric. The blend of ethnic weaves with western silhouettes display her uniqueness as she uses object motifs such as cars, buses, fruits, flowers, planes and TV sets on sari borders, blouses and skirts. The colours are a mixed melange ranging from magenta, orange, red to subtle aqua and violet with intricate Patola patterns. Patola is widely used along with silk and satin fabrics giving rise to a range of clothes that are trendy, fun, original and absolutely beautiful.

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GAURANG SHAH

LAKMĂˆ FASHION WEEK

Gaurang Shah woos the Indian bride with his collection, 'Ardhagini'.

Opulent kanjeevarams, stunning zardozi and delightful kalamkari make the collection more appealing in colours such as red, pink, orange and yellow.

Shah adds his personal touch combining traditional handlooms and weaves in traditional motifs. The varied textures of the fabrics are beautifully brought together in each entry and the discreet zardozi embroidery appear on sleeve edges and dupattas. The creations are an enchanting fusion of style, tradition and craftsmanship and are suggestive of the designer’s subtle and sensible contemporary flair.

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KRISHNA MEHTA

Showcasing "Encore", Krishna’s LFW collection has large doses of expert craftsmanship, arts, and textiles with specially hand woven fabrics that are cleverly textured with dyeing or Shibori and stitching details. At the same time, the silhouettes remain simple, lean and elegant and dazzle with exquisite embellishments. Shades of the softest feminine colours like peach, ecru and salmon with touches of purple, red, black and royal blue add to the beauty of the garments.

Fabrics used are Kota doria, Chanderi, georgette, tulle, velvet, lace, brocade and even cotton, which are all turned into splendid festive and bridal creations.

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MEERA & ROHIT AGARWAL

LAKMĂˆ FASHION WEEK

Inspired by Shah Jahan's wife Mumtaz Mahal, this collection by Meera and Rohit Aggarwal for their label Rivaayat focuses more on Indian traditional wear with a few modern detailings. With a colour palette comprising royal reds, black, gold and other festive colours, the garments shine through in intriguing fabrics such as silks and nets amidst other woven materials. Injected shots of bold colours such as grey and mustard are embellished royally with sequins, bead work and rich embroidery. With a concept of old art revival coupled with regal emphasis, this collection by Meera and Rohit Aggarwal is truly spectacular.

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NEETA LULLA

Neeta Lulla’s collection is inspired by Radha, who has remained as a symbol of true love in Indian mythology. Neeta combines the silhouettes of gowns for lehengas to produce a wonderful fusion story.

Detailing is intricate with zardozi being the prime craft followed by quilting, appliqué and embroidery.

The fabric choice is rich and opulent as Banaras Jaal and Chinar Butti brocades are added to the gorgeous Kanjeevaram, organza, tulle and silks. Beautiful fabrics, intricate craftsmanship, clever construction and a distinct glamorous fashion direction from Neeta Lulla makes her collection a dream to behold.

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NITYA ARORA Creating a dazzling array of jewellery which will appeal to the modern women, Nitya Arora's "Nouveau Gypsy" collection is a striking offer with gold and gems that sparkle on the beautiful cuffs, necklaces and earrings. Beautiful chokers with mesh pendants and chains, tasselled necklaces, armlets and long multi spiked necklaces are eye catching. Using a bed of different colours of resham and tassels for the metal, precious stones, chains and neck pieces, Nitya reveals a very imaginative streak in her design sensibilities. To add more drama to the collection and recreate the theme, Nitya shows some interesting gold bullet belts, peacock inspired tassel centres for neck pieces and even head bands with stunning large centre flowers.

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PAYAL KAPOOR

The designer recreates the grandeur of past era with specially woven and intricately designed fabrics from Benares. Payal pays a tribute to the craftsmen of that city with her exquisite garments. In shades of green, nude, black and wine, there are dhoti style miniskirts with Benares halters, two toned tiered maxi skirts teamed with peplum blouses and cutwork scarves, multicoloured layered lehengas with cutwork covers and rich red kaftans with imposing shimmering leaf embroidery.

Payal keeps the theme intact with creations like the dress with green bodice and cowl skirt, the sari drape gown and the panelled green tiered skirt.

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SHIVAN & NARRESH With the legendary stallion, Equus as an inspiration, the designers, Shivan and Narresh create a luxurious collection to match the theme from DHL that was Speed. The collection reflects the shimmer of metallic sheen and their new fabrics are inspired by the gloss of a horse’s skin, ideal for the swim and cruise line.

The exciting handmade louvered jersey is moulded into stylish mailot, bikini, dress, gown, sari, tankini, trikini, jumpsuits and shirts as well as the duo’s newest addition after their bikini sari and Kaftan sari the “Kafsuit”.

The colour story is muted with grey, brown, beige, ice grey, black and acid for the body moulding creations which are beautifully finished and constructed.

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SHRUTI SANCHETI

Working creatively with Shibori, Shruti’s collection is rustic and nomadic with the unique stitch resistant technique of the Nebsarai village. The ombré effects and Shibori patterns play a magical melody with the Sindhi Tanka or Kutch stitch, which is a trademark of the region. Adding negative appliqués, herringbone, chain and buttonhole stitches; Shruti brings in the handloom fabrics and a melange of colours like red, fuchsia, deep orange, mango yellow, indigo, royal purple, emerald and mixes them with olive, tangerine and peach. Giving the beauty of textiles and the craft from the Thar region a fashionable direction, Shruti Sancheti’s colourful and striking collection marks Indian Textile Day at LFW.

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SHYAMAL & BHUMIKA

The designers recreate the grandeur and glory of royalty from the past with their collection called "Maharaja".

With custom designed motifs for every garment, the perfectly coordinated men's and women's bridal outfits give a new direction to wedding trousseaux for the bride and the groom. The silhouettes are reminiscent of the Mughal era with chogas, kalidar lehengas, sherwanis, panelled kurtas for men and embroidered kali details for saris, angarkhas, lehengas, dupattas and cholis make a dramatic impact on the catwalk. Known for their lush ornate creations, the duo use zardozi, metal wire, zari peeta, aari and Marodi embroidery to add to the beauty of the creations.

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SWAPNIL SHINDE

LAKMÈ FASHION WEEK

The designer presents an ultra-mod collection called “Frozen Fragility” to match DHL’s theme of speed. With silhouettes borrowed from the two eras of 50s and 60s, Swapnil showcases cinched waistlines, voluminous skirts, exaggerated sleeves and large prominent shoulder emphasizing space age like creations but with a unique fragile delicate quality. Colours range from black and ivory to various shades of slate and steel blue, blood red and sunflower yellow. Using clever manipulations of the fabrics like folding, pleating and mixing structured shapes with fluidity; Swapnil blends his inspirations of Speed and Horror imaginatively.

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SWATI JAIN

Hailing from Jaipur, Rajasthan, Swati’s collection revolves around the concept of Indian celebration with traditional Rajasthani work. Using rich and flamboyant fabrics such as silks, georgettes, crepes and chiffons, the shade card focuses on bright, fun colours such as tones of red, yellow, orange, pink, blue, green and purple, which beautifully reflect the idea of colourful Indian festivals and celebrations. Swati showcases a vast range which comprised jackets, stoles, dresses, saris, kurtas and lehengas that are free flowing with an air of sensual fluidity. The collection also includes pieces which sport funky prints of Indian cultural importance such as peacocks, lotus, Ganesha as well as parrots for a glamquirky edge.

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KALLOL DATTA Kallol Datta, the opening designer and India’s rising star at the grand finale was inspired by the Lakmé absolute monochrome look which comprised block eye and natural blush for day wear while the night look had red hot lips and muted eyes.

The designer’s fifteen looks were a colourful mélange of four print stories called “Cuts”. Putting together with great expertise, Kallol’s 54 piece mix-and-match line had the designer’s wonderful construction techniques in wool, silk, leather and cotton.

Inspired by the black and white of the Lakmé Absolute Monochrome range, with a hint of colours, the intricately crafted garments told a wonderful story of unconventional elegance.

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PANKAJ & NIDHI AHUJA

Pankaj and Nidhi, closed the grand finale with a contemporary play of kaleidoscopic patterns for their collection called ‘Monochrome’ with geometrics and origami at centre stage. Textures were rich as quilting, multi layers, fine cord, lattice and wool crewel work was created from diverse fabrics like silk, leather, wool and at times sheer and opaque materials.

Keeping the silhouettes stark and geometric there were angular cuts for asymmetric jackets, which will surely be a trend for the coming season.

Giant collars, boxy tunics, gilets, crossover coats, matty weave ponchos, kimono style gowns, shawl wrap tops, and waistcoats showcased the designer duo’s excellent workmanship.

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VAISHALI SHADANGULE Calling her collection "Reverb", Vaishali celebrates colour in her distinct style, using a variety of her favourite fabrics such as chanderi, organza, silk and brocade in festive colours like blue, red, white and gold. Adding on embellishments in the same colour story of red, blue and gold flowers; Vaishali emphasizes on the unique drapes and cuts for the traditional attire. Proving that innovative and asymmetric construction is her forte, the delicately structured garments are balanced by the shimmer of silk organza and brocade and the deep tones of the Maharahstrian Khand. Fabric texturing is achieved with the crushed technique, while layering and overlapping is used for many of the creations.

Show Report

Manish Malhotra

BEST OF

RTW COUTURE FASHION WEEK F/W 2012-13

Anju Modi

Couture in India traces back in history where each garment was equated with fantasies, opulence, creativity and intricate artwork for the maharajas and the moguls.....

The recently held PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012 was a platform to showcase the best in Indian couture designs. The five-day fashion event held in August 2012 at The Taj Palace Hotel, New Delhi; captured the finest impulses of the fashion industry at the fabled couture city of Delhi. The event was an effort to recreate that magic blended with contemporary art to feature some of the most distinct collections on the ramp by top Indian designers. These designs from the most prestigious designers of the country delighted all fashion enthusiasts and created never seen before moments.

A select milieu of some of the most well known names in the industry wove together these five days to remember through a series of scintillating shows displaying the works of most prestigious designers of India.

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01. ANAMIKA KHANNA Reflecting a spirit of non conformism, Anamika’s collection was a celebration of royal luxury and its transition into a modern world. Presenting an ode to the subtle power of an Indian woman, the collection explores a world of romanticism with a serene, sensuous amalgamation of subtle ornamentation in Kashmiri embroidery, zardosi, parsi, gara and gothic details.

Flirting with beautiful soft shades of the finest silks, chiffons and organza, the silhouettes varied from fluid pants to lace jackets to fitted jackets in velvet. Long tunics, pleats, a play with transparent fabrics and decorative intricacies, the collection combines a tradition that is cherished with fine craft, but in varying interpretations with capes, draped dresses, sarees and skirts. Presented in a specially created courtyard suggesting a Mughal reminiscence, the show was presented at Evoluzione in New Delhi to a very select audience. The mood board and collections by the designers perfectly complemented the ambience.

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02. ANJU    MODI The Devi Collection takes inspiration from some of the most vivid characters inked throughout the Bengali literature and those that have been cinematically brought to life. Paying a tribute to the modern woman by highlighting these characters, the collection defines and epitomizes women-hood, in an endeavour to levitate women in all their avatars. Anju Modi creates a grand interpretation of heritage and characterization with her colour palette of red, black and white. The designer also showcases a palette rich with Indian textiles and handloom, playing with layering, asymmetrical cuts and volume. Along with traditional fabrics and techniques like Chanderi, Kota Fabrics, Varanasi Zari work and Bandhani printing, Indian techniques in weaving, vegetable dyeing, block printing and old traditional embroidery have been used to create this collection. The models including the Bollywood icon, Madhuri Dixit as a show stopper enchant the audience with bright red vermillion applied in their hair parting.

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03. ASHIMA LEENA SINGH Titled as Rang Rattan, the showcase emerged with diaphanous whites and crèmes, set off by glittering accents and beaten gold work. The silhouettes spoke of new vintage, the chakdaar jama of the Mughals re-interpreted as contemporary clothing. Sheer and sensuous drapes were combined with body jewellery as a part of the garment set the mood for beautiful tones of tourmaline, jade green and cerulean blues. The collection then features jewel tones, prominently ruby, emerald and amethyst with a silhouette that becomes classic, more regal with long jackets and with very full skirts. The embroideries bring to mind the almost lost art of precious old artisanship, the jewels of erstwhile maharajas making a scintillating style statement as embellishments. The same craftsmanship is echoed in the specially created shoes, modern wedges encrusted with diamante.

The perfect embodiment of the rich and regal vibe of this collection brings together music, fashion and beauty in perfect and joyful harmony.

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04. GAURAV GUPTA Titled Sylph Aviary, Gaurav Gupta’s collection as usual, is an experimental interpretation of the global Indian mindset: a reflection of the new confident radiant charged India. His collection unravels the opulence and grandeur and celebrates a playful vintage romance. Showcased at the venue, The Kila which is a part of a cluster of heritage buildings located in Mehrauli, New Delhi, the collection stood out with Gaurav’s signature sari dresses and gowns that highlight the range of colours. Yellow, pinks, neons and nudes, all add to the intricacies of ornamentation that adorn the fabric. The play of drapery with embroideries is between vintage and modern and Gaurav’s vision of sharper silhouettes in dreamy gauzes of layered chiffons, tulle, nets and laces give a sculptural feel to the collection - a reconfirmation of a typical Gaurav Gupta statement of fashion.

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05. JJ VALAYA Titled as The Azrak Collection, JJ Valaya’s couture line up finds its inspiration in the Ottoman Empire. Meaning rare and uncommon; Azrak is a befitting title for this collection as it stands inspired by some exceptional and unrivalled arts from the Ottoman Empire. Primarily based on art forms on ceramic, fabric, paper, leather and wood, the collection takes one on a journey of a rich and perhaps forgotten era albeit, in a modern and crisp manner. The collection starts with a monochromatic palette in ivories and black and then gently treads into colour territory whilst all along deliciously delving into unusual art and craft based forms such as mother of pearl inlay, Turkish miniatures, Iznik Ceramics, dramatic weaves of the Sultan’s robes and exotic birds. Fabrics such as fine silks, dupion, jacquards, georgette and lush velvets embrace techniques ranging from metal work, Zardozi, Badla, Resham and semi-precious stone inlay to create a collection which attempts to provide a perfect blend of the past with cutting edge contemporary chic.

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06. MANAV GANGWANI Inspired by Royalty, Manav Gangwani’s couture collection is infused with imperial splendour and as the name suggests, is inspired by royalty. Heavily encrusted with Swarovski crystals, delicate beading and exquisitely intricate embroideries, the collection is modernized to be original and contemporary. The main colours are shimmery blacks, pristine ivories and magnificent reds which give to give this collection a distinctive identity. Cocktail gowns, lehengas, chudidar kurtas, anarkalis, sharara and gharara, pre-draped sarees with unique signature blouses are the silhouettes he has played with this season. Also included are traditional sherwanis for men. Silks, laces, tulle, velvet, satins and dupions for fabrics offer sexy yet demure and classic feel to the collection.

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07. MANISH    ARORA For Couture Week, Manish Arora showcased a retrospective of his collections shown at Paris Fashion Week over the past five years. Most of his pieces shown during the Couture week have never been shown in India before and each of these pieces differ from one another in terms of its unique detailed craftsmanship, fine embroidery and meticulous embellishments. The collections have been inspired by India and its great culture which has been the biggest source of inspiration to Manish over the years and all the pieces have been made by experienced artisans who have been part of the Manish Arora studio for many years. Each of the above inspirations has the signature colourful sensibility of Manish that has made him one of the most famous contemporary designers in the world. He has been able to create a style of working, which is his own and in doing so has been able to make India n design known to the fashion world globally.

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08. MANISH MALHOTRA A collection that is full of glamour and romance – in bright pinks, oranges and crimson and all hues that are festive. Manish Malhotra’s couture collection signifies the eternal Bollywood glamour, the traditional Indian opulence and a royal entourage of embellishments and ornamentations. The 20 select couture ensembles made an exquisite collection that spoke about the diverse timeless vintage styles conquered by extensively embroidery, appliqué work and floral techniques. In a picturesque setting of an old world living room of an antique connoisseur creating a dramatic illusion on the stage, Bollywood star, Katrina Kaif closed the show in a gold lehenga with pink and red borders, a gold blouse with Kashmiri and thread embroidery and oyster net dupatta with scattered embroidery. Manish confirms his core forte – bridal wear blended with pure glamour for the modern Indian bride and bridegrooms.

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09. SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE Sabyasachi’s travels around the world have culminated in his 2012 couture collection.

5 cities bring five flavours, the straight jacket discipline of New York, the classic nostalgia of the British Raj in Kolkata, the subversive decadence of Berlin, the incredible romance of Paris and the bohemian flair of Barcelona all come together to create a collection, that is very global yet very Indian. Russian needlepoint, boutis from Provence, zardozi from Agra, Kantha from Bangladesh, block printing from Bengal and Rajasthan, intricately embroidered Pashmina from Kashmir, chints from the United Kingdom and toile de joy from France, co-exist with rhinestone, baubles, bows and the finest quality of needle craft to create a collection that is exuberant yet disciplined. Accessories for the collection are from Sabyasachi’s new edgy label – Sabyasachi by Sabyasachi that made a recent debut at Sotheby’s London.

The main colours such as beige and black co-exist with reds and greens. The tone on tone embroidery on full bodied skirts are an absolute class apart.

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10. SHANTANU & NIKHIL MEHRA Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra’s couture collection has a colour palette of vintage and dark tones of burnt blues with a strong element of gold and finally a dose of black and red. Lehengas, skirts, sarees, long coats flaunt the metallic embellishments on fabrics such as silks, French laces, nets and brocade appliquéd on the surface. A lot of metal is used to highlight the garments as well as for accessories. The distressed look is suggestive of the dark side of the Victorian bride. The designer duo’s press note reads “the collection is for a women who has deeply inspired not only us but the world in total with her great power to withstand the extreme surroundings that constantly put her down. The dark colours are clear indicators of her personality that has been tarnished and scraped by the current socio economic conditions of the world we live in. The textures , the surfaces and the silhouettes are somewhat harsh like depictive of how we as a community are treating the women we worship. It is this part we want to restore and resurrect.”

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11. VARUN BAHL Titled ‘India Noueau’, Varun Bahl’s couture collection attempts to merge the classic evergreens of old India with the outlook of modern Indian dressing tastes. The underlying inspirations are undoubtedly remain Indian with the Sari, the Achkan, the Sharara, the Mughal Farshi, and of course, the Lehenga. However, the collection is aimed not only at the Indian wedding, but also towards those who love to dress Indian with pride, but are looking for modern updates on traditional Indian silhouettes.

The colour black is used as a statement against the preconceived inauspiciousness of it, adding a modern relevance to the time-honoured, traditional cuts and shapes this collection is based on. The other key colours in the collection are cobalt-to-navy blues, olive, coral, and reds. Fabrics like silk net, chiffon, silk, velvet, and a multitude of hand embroidery techniques add to the transparency, layering, flounce, fit-and-flare, volume, and handcrafted textures for the key elements.

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FASHION Trends & Forecasts A/W 2013-14 S/S 2013

ModAmont

Vos contacts i Your contacts RichaRd MaRtin Directeur adjoint & Directeur artistique Deputy Director & artistic Director richard.martin@reedexpo.fr

ElizabEth lERichE bureau de style eleriche@wanadoo.fr tél. : +33 (0)1 40 61 99 36

www.bijorhca.com

Eclat De Mode

notre équipe commerciale est à votre disposition au : our sales team is at your service on: christine.faure@reedexpo.fr tél. : +33 (0)1 47 56 21 82

Bijoux couverture/Cover jewels : Paca Peca - Philipp

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comme des kimonos modernisés.

• Métal doré • Nacre • Laque • Passemente THE FA Matières : • Email OF JEW RTW|Fashion Trends|A/W 2012-13 • Perles • Métal doré • Nacre • Laque • Passementerie bijoux : • Email • Perles • Sautoir de p • Nacre figuratifs (dr • Passementerie : on femininity enabling Autumn/Winter 2012–2013 focuses on creativity and diversity withbijoux a new take • Collier ruba • Perles every woman to reveal and assert her own identity. ORIENT EXTREME explores elegance and • Sautoir de Asian perles avec pendentifs • Plastron bro refinement, MODERN GRAPHIC takes a dynamic approach with stark lines, DARK ROMANTIC figuratifs (dragons, paons) bijoux : exudes mystery and sophistication, and CRAZY FANTASY is all about creativity and quirkiness. • Manchette é • Collier ruban de satin et fleurs japonai • Bracelet et • Sautoir de perles avec pendentifs • Plastron brodé origami figuratifs (dragons, paons) • Manchette émail motifs asiatiques • Collier ruban de satin et fleurs japonaises • Bracelet et bague en volume esprit • Plastron brodé A theme celebrating the rich iconography of Asia, from Japan to China. A new Orient-inspired trend Silhouette: origami for an alluring, elegant woman.

• Manchette émail motifs asiatiques Japanese prin • Bracelet et bague en volume esprit Silhouette: a revamped k Japanese print coat dress suggesting a origami Silhouette: revamped kimono Japanese print coat dress suggesting Materials: Materials: a revamped kimono.

•Gilt metal • Gilt metal Silhouette: •Lacquer • Lacquer •Enamel Japanese print coat dress suggesting Materials: •Mother-of-pearl • Enamel a revamped kimono.

•Trimmings • Gilt metal • Mother-of-p •Pearls or beads • Lacquer • Trimmings Materials: Jewellery: • Enamel •Long string of pearls with figurative pendants • Pearls or be • Gilt metal (dragons, peacocks) • Mother-of-pearl • Lacquer •Satin ribbon necklace with Japanese flowers • Trimmings •Embroidered breast-plate necklace Jewellery: • Enamel •Enamel cuff • Pearls or bracelet beadswith Asian motifs •Origami-style 3D bracelet and ring • Long string • Mother-of-pearl pendants (d • Trimmings Colours: Jewellery: • Satin ribbon • Pearls or beads • Long string of pearls with figurative Japanese flo pendants (dragons, peacocks) Gold 872 C • Embroidere Jewellery: • Satin ribbon necklace with • Enamel cuff Or Moutard • Long string of pearls with figurative Japanese flowers • Origami-sty Gold Mustard pendants (dragons, peacocks) Mustard 117 C • Embroidered breast-plate necklace • Satin ribbon necklace with • Enamel cuff bracelet with Asian motifs Or Moutarde Orange Japanese flowers • Origami-style ring Gold Mustard 3D bracelet and Orange Orange 1595 C • Embroidered breast-plate necklace • Enamel cuff bracelet with Asian motifs Or Moutarde Orange Rouge de • Origami-style ring Gold Mustard 3D bracelet and Orange Chinese R Chinese Red 1807 C www.bijorhca.com

uses On CreAtivity Ake On femininity eAtivity Orient Extrême eveAl And Assert mininity Xtreme Assert eXplOres nement, plOres mOdern rOACh dern With stArk desstArk mystery And th ntAsy ry And is All AbOut irkiness. ll AbOut

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Moutarde Mustard

Orange Orange

Orange Orange

Rouge de Chine Chinese Red

Rouge de Chine Chinese Red

Encre de Chine Indian Ink

Rouge de Chine Chinese Red Indian Ink 532 C Encre de Chine Indian Ink

Encre de Indian Ink

ECLAT DE MOD

Turquoise Greyish Greyish Turquoise 549 C ECLAT DE MODE ~ BIJORHCA ~Turquoise CARNET DE Turquoise Grisée Greyish

• Cuir thermocollé, • Métal argent, Mét THE FASHION SIDE • Corde * OF JEWELLERYMatières A/W 2012-13|Fashion Trends |RTW 103 • Vinyle : • Cuir thermocollé, verni, laqué • Résine • Néoprène • Métal argent, Métal laqué • Rhodoïd • Corde • Vinyle • Email • Cuir thermocollé, verni, laqué • Résine • Strass mat • Métal argent, Métal laqué• Rhodoïd A contemporary theme with structured, graphic lines, for a visionary, fashion-forward woman with an • Vinyle urban dress style.

• Email bijoux : • Résine • Strass mat • Collier plastron au • Rhodoïd de formes asymé • Email bijoux : • Sautoir chaînes e • Strass mat Silhouette: • Collier plastron aux jeux • Manchette large e Protective shapes, leggings under a de formesgraphic-patterned asymétriques dress.

• Bague géométriqu bijoux : • Sautoir chaînes et cordages • Collier plastron aux jeux • ManchetteMaterials: large et articulée en plexi •Neoprene de formes asymétriques• Bague géométrique •Rope Silhouette: en 3D •Fused, patent, lacquered leather • Sautoir chaînes et cordages •Silver-coloured metal,Protective lacquered shapes, l • Manchette large et articulée en plexi metal under a graphic-pa Silhouette: •Vinyl • Bague géométrique en 3D •Resin •Rhodoïd leggings Protective shapes, Materials: •Enamel under a graphic-patterned dress.

•Matt paste • Neoprene Silhouette: Jewellery: • Rope Protective shapes, leggings Materials: •Asymmetric breast-plate necklace Fused, patent, lac under a graphic-patterned•dress. chain-and-rope • necklace Neoprene•Long •Wide linked Plexi cuff bracelet • Silver-coloured m •3D geometric ring • Rope • Vinyl Materials: • Fused, patent, lacquered leather • Resin • Neoprene • Silver-coloured metal, lacquered metal • Rhodoïd • Rope • Vinyl • Enamel • Fused, patent, lacquered•leather Resin Colours: • Matt paste • Silver-coloured metal, lacquered • Rhodoïdmetal • Vinyl • Enamel White Jewellery: • Resin • Matt paste • Asymmetric breas • Rhodoïd • Long chain-and-r • Enamel 433 C Blanc Jewellery: Black Noir • Wide linkedGris Plexic • Matt paste Blanc Noir Gris c breast-plate necklace Ceme White• AsymmetricBlack • 3D geometric ring White• Long chain-and-rope Black necklace Ceme Cement Grey Jewellery: • Wide linked Plexi ciment cuff bracelet Blanc• AsymmetricNoir Gris Came breast-plate• necklace 3D geometric ring White• Long chain-and-rope Black necklace Cement Grey Came 06 Camel 729 C • Wide linked Plexi cuff bracelet 06 Noir Gris ciment Camel Verm • 3D geometric ring Black Cement Grey Camel Vermi

www.bijorhca.com

*Le bijou côté mode

Bijoux couverture/Cover jewels : Paca Peca - Philipp

Blanc White

leggings sous une robe aux motifs : Matières graphiques.

• Néoprène

Modern Graphic

06 iment nt Grey

06 Gris ciment

Cement Grey

Camel Camel

Camel Camel

Vermillon Vermilion

Vermilion 1795 C

Vermillon Vermilion

Electric Blue 2945 C

Bleu Dur Electric Blue

Bleu D Electri

Vos contacts i Your contacts RichaRd MaRtin Directeur adjoint & Directeur artistique Deputy Director & artistic Director richard.martin@reedexpo.fr

Dark Romantique

ElizabEth lERichE bureau de style eleriche@wanadoo.fr tél. : +33 (0)1 40 61 99 36

www.bijorhca.com

04

ert Sombre ark Green

Laque Noir Black Lacquer

e Noir Lacquer

Bleu Nuit Midnight Blue

Violet Purple

Violet Purple

Bordeaux Bordeaux Red

04

Nuit ght Blue

04

notre équipe commerciale est à votre disposition au : our sales team is at your service on: christine.faure@reedexpo.fr tél. : +33 (0)1 47 56 21 82

Bleu Nuit Midnight Blue

Bijoux couverture/Cover jewels : Paca Peca - Philipp

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• Velours dévoré • Plume Matières : • Fourrure • Strass • Dentelle THE FA • Cuir • Cotte m OFde JEW RTW|Fashion Trends|A/W 2012-13• Velours dévoré • Plume • Passemen • Fourrure • Strass • Cuir • Cotte de maille bijoux : • Plume • Passementerie • Torque en • Strass A dark, mysterious theme inspired by Gothic tales, for a bewitching romantic heroine.

• Sautoir ch • Cotte de maille bijoux : • Manchette • Passementerie • Torque en métal et cristaux brutstête • Bague • Sautoir chaîne et croix • Broche gé bijoux : • Manchette en dentelle et cuir • Torque en métal et cristaux Silhouette: bruts • Bague tête de mort • Sautoir chaîne et croix Panne velvet trousers and brocade • Broche géante Silhouette: jacket under a fur coat.

• Manchette en dentelle et cuir Panne velve Materials: • Bague tête de mort brocade jack •Lace • Broche géante Silhouette: •Dévoré velvet •Fur Panne velvet trousers andMaterials: •Leather •Feathers brocade jacket under a fur• coat.

Lace Silhouette: •Paste mail • Dévoré vel Panne velvet trousers and •Chain •Trimmings Materials: • Fur brocade jacket under a fur coat.

• Lace • Leather Jewellery: • Dévoré velvet •Metal and uncut crystal torc necklace • Feathers Materials: •Cross and chain • Fur • Lace •Lace and leather cuff bracelet • Paste • Leather •Skull ring • Chain mai • Dévoré velvet •Giant brooch • Feathers • Trimmings • Fur • Paste • Leather • Chain mail Jewellery: • Feathers • Trimmings • Metal and • Paste Colours: • Cross and • Chain mail Jewellery: • Lace and le • Trimmings • Metal and uncut crystal torc necklace Dark Green 627 C • Skull ring • Cross and chain broo Vert Sombre• Giant Laqu Jewellery: • Lace andDark leather cuff bracelet Green Black • Metal and uncut crystal torc Black necklace Lacquer BLACK C • Skull ring • Cross and chain broochNoir Vert Sombre• Giant Laque Bleu N • Lace and leather cuff bracelet Dark Green Black Lacquer Midni Midnight Blue 2768 C • Skull ring 04 broochNoir Vert Sombre • Giant Laque Bleu Nuit Violet Dark Green Black Lacquer Midnight Blue Purple Purple 2695 C www.bijorhca.com

Violet Purple Bordeaux Red 504 C Bordeaux Bordeaux Red

Bronze 147 C

Bronze Bronze

Borde Borde

Bron Bron

R B

on on

www.bijorhca.com

Modern Graphic

*Le bijou côté mode

Bijoux couverture/Cover jewels : Paca Peca - Philipp

• Textile • Fourrure et c Matières : • Manchette en dentelle et cuir • Crochet • Millefiori métal et cristaux brutstête de mort • Résine • Bague • Lamée coloré THE FASHION SIDE • Verre105 * • Textile aîne et croix • Broche OF JEWELLERY 2012-13| géante •A/W Fourrure etFashion cuir Trends|• RTW Strass • Crochet en dentelle et cuir • Millefiori • Papier • Lamée coloré de mort • Verre • Fourrure et cuir Silhouette: ante • Strass bijoux : • Millefiori Panne velvet trousers and • Papier • Collier surdim A colourful theme full of under humouraand quirkiness •fur Verre brocade jacket coat. illustrating a narrative, figurative world, for an offbeat, unconventional woman who mixes les matières • codes Strassto create her own look.bijoux : • Manchette ac trousers and Materials: • Papier • Collier surdimensionné, mélangeant de matières r et under a fur•coat.

Lace les matières et les formes • Bague collag bijoux : • Dévoré velvet • Manchette accumulation etcréant compilation des m Silhouette: • Collier surdimensionné, mélangeant • Fur de matières recyclées A mix and match look combining les matières et les formes different materials prints. modules • Leather • Bague collage deand petits vet • Manchette accumulation et compilation Silhouette: • Feathers créant des motifs insolites Materials: de matières recyclées A mix and mat •Resin • Paste •Fabric • Bague collage de petits modules different mater • Chain mail •Crochet Silhouette: créant des motifs insolites •Coloured lamé • Trimmings •Fur and leather look combining A mix and match Materials: •Millefiori different materials and prints.

•Glass • Resin Silhouette: Jewellery: •Paste • Fabric •Paper A mix match look combining • Metal and uncut crystal torcand necklace Materials: • Crochet different materials and prints.

• Cross and chain • ResinJewellery: • Coloured lam • Lace and leather cuff bracelet • Fabric •Oversize necklace mixing different • Fur and leath uncut crystal torc necklace Materials: materials and shapes • Skull ring • Crochet Millefiori •Stacked cuff bracelet made • from chain • Resin • Giant brooch • Coloured lamé recycled materials • Glass eather cuff bracelet • Fabric •Collage ring with unusual motifs made • Fur and leather up of small elements • Paste • Crochet • Millefiori • Paper ch • Coloured lamé • Glass • Fur and leather • PasteColours: Jewellery: • Millefiori • Paper • Oversize neck • Glass materials and Bright Pink 219 C • Paste Jewellery: • Stacked cuff b • Paper Bronze Rosemixing Vif different Vermi Bordeaux • Oversize necklace recycled mate Bright Pink Vermi e Bordeaux Red Bronze materials and Vermilion 1795shapes C • Collage ring w Jewellery: • Stacked cuff bracelet mademade fromup of sm Rose mixing Vif different Vermillon Jaune eaux Bronze • Oversize necklace recycled materials Bright Vermilion Yellow eaux Red Bronze materials and shapesPink Yellow 116 Cwith unusual motifs • Collage ring cuff bracelet mademade fromJaune Rose Vif • Stacked Vermillon Vert ze up of small elements recycled materials Bright Pink Vermilion Yellow Green ze Green 7489 C • Collage ring with unusual motifs madeJaune up of small elements ose Vif Vermillon Vert Cyan right Pink Vermilion Yellow Green Cyan Cyan 7461 C

Jaune Yellow Vert Green

Vert Green Cyan Cyan

Cyan Cyan

Purple 2627 C

ECLAT DE

Violet Purple

ECLAT DE MODE ~ BIJORHCA ~ CARNET

Violet Purple

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RTW|Fashion Forecasts|S/S 2013

Essentiel It is crucial to calm down, to come back to what’s crystal clear and is the essence of life.

Beyond the vicinity of a crowded, noisy world, we can unburden ourselves of the artifices of superficiality and uselessness.

We prefer the best to excess in all things.

Minimalist luxury is re-establishing a bare, serene timelessness.

The contemporary spirit is contemplating Beauty in its most elementary sobriety.

The older, the current and the future are being reconciled.

Discoveries in the techno-sciences are reinvigorating an optimistic vision of the future.

Attitudes and styles are maximizing the senses and sensations and giving a highly desirable art of living a vibrant new spirit...

Inspirations 2012-2013

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Minimum

by Elizabeth Leriche Choosing the better by privileging “less� is the contemporary expression of an antibling-bling luxury that is turning its back on overload. Bare geometry, simple lines, transparent materials, lighter forms and gradations of colors are privileging high emotional wattage. Design is creating a minimalist art that plays the card of discretion and invites contemplation.

Stylistic asceticism is freeing space from the weight of things and revealing the essence of Beauty in all its purity.

Copyright: Da La Forge

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Element(s)

by François Bernard Living well is changing the parameters.

Now is the time for a simple timelessness that is nevertheless rich in emotions and sensations. Geometrical, archetypal, molecular or abstract forms are referencing elements like water, earth, fire and air. Design is drawing inspiration from meteorology and climatology to invent new expressions of today’s atmosphere.

Between lightness and weightiness, power and transparency, force and fluidity, a new generation of objects is inviting us to dream.

Copyright: Da La Forge

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Yes Future

by Vincent Grégoire, agency NellyRodi

Here’s to tomorrow! Emerging technologies are tracing the territories of an innovative new world. Against the grain of déjà vu, modernity is sending a gentle change into orbit, activating our imaginations.

Innovation is speeding up positive energies in all fields of design. Materials and their performance are sketching out a future in which the senses and sensuality are combined. With fluidity and light, we are exploring new ways of living. Tomorrow is already here.

Copyright: Da La Forge

RTW|Fashion Forecasts|A/W 2013-14

Outlandish The great elsewhere...

Leather

2013/2014

”Outlandish” is an evocative word that transports us elsewhere, far away, outside of our universe or to the heart of our inner being. It will be the vehicle for this season’s journeys. A fancy for foreign, rather than strange, takes over our daily lives or thrusts us into an undefined time and space. It will be the link between the season’s five stories...

Gravitation With a subtle shift in space and time, we move the horizon, we gravitate around an unpredictable universe, are magnetically attracted to distant galaxies.

Anthropomorphism We dream of metamorphosing into a mythical animal, being reincarnated as a medieval unicorn or as a blue-billed platypus.

Mathematical undulation In the grip of a sudden disorientation, a stranger to ourselves, we draw up complicated equations; mathematic calculations give off erudite undulations.

Melancholimania We refer to classical romanticism evoking the “Sturm und Drang”of German poets, we weep with Bas Jan Ader when watching “I am too sad to tell you», we recite Alfred de Musset and “Le Lac” by Lamartine.

Jubilation Uninhibited, possessed by an irresistible impulse to laugh and to show off, we go over the top with over-expression to fulfil our most secret urges.

Alexander Wang

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w

w

attraction of bodies.

A/W 2013-14 Fashion behind Forecaststhe |RTW Terrestrial crust, lunar surface, astral lights, we imagine the|visible invisible, the body of stars, gas, dust and black matter that forms the galaxy.

Gravitation

A phenomenon of physical interaction which causes the reciprocal attraction of bodies.

Terrestrial crust, lunar surface, astral lights, we imagine the visible behind the invisible, the body of stars, gas, dust and black matter that forms the galaxy.

KEY WORDS Rich contRAsts with RAw Layers of light Fragments of meteorites Seismic erosion Futuristic grunge Lunar crater Armour-like Smooth and ovoid Other-worldly shine Inspiration from minerals

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS Materials are tortured and intense. They are scythed with deep grooves, and enlivened by metallic waves. Metallic weaving, shape memory, kaleidoscopes, textured leathers.

Key Words

Rich contrasts with Raw Layers of light, Fragments of meteorites, Seismic erosion, Futuristic grunge, Lunar crater, Armour-like, Smooth and ovoid, Other-worldly shine, Inspiration from minerals.

Aspect, Touch Developing surfaces

Radiant scales Stars dust, glitte, sequinsIri descents technicals In can descent lava Tarred and uneven surfaces Contrast: Very matt/very shinythe Mixtures of Bewitched by the obscure, the range is very dark.

At the centre of the cosmos appear Materials are tortured and intense. They are metals Oxidation and perfection on the scythed with deep and enlivened changing andgrooves, hypnotic highlights of meteorites, the coppery shine of the sun and moon, the same surface Irregular coatings, Devore by metallic waves.

Metallic weaving, shape black lunar craters, the midnight blue and the gold of the celestial heavens.

Chaotic quilting. memory, kaleidoscopes, textured leathers.

COLOUR Spirit OfPALETTE Materials

Colour Palette Bewitched by the obscure, the range is very dark. At the centre of the cosmos appear the changing and hypnotic highlights of meteorites, the coppery shine of the sun and moon, the black lunar craters, the midnight blue and the gold of the celestial heavens.

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to other bodies.

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RTW|Fashion Forecasts |A/W 2013-14 a new bestiary generates a mutation of the Metamorphosis, metempsychosis, species and the temptation to reincarnate oneself as a mythical beast.

Anthropomorphism Attribution of behavioural or morphological human characteristics to other bodies.

Metamorphosis, metempsychosis, a new bestiary generates a mutation of the species and the temptation to reincarnate oneself as a mythical beast.

KEY WORDS RoMAntic nAtURE Mythical beasts Hybridisation/ Mutation Destroyed & Poetic Comforting Minimalism Elegy to silence

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS Hybrids and mutations lead the dance. Materials are scrambled, marled, felted, woolly, reassuring, or in a state of flux between, vegetal, animal and human.

Natural skins that have been barely processed, scorched crust, foamy nubuck. Speckled, dotted surface, micro-designs.

Key Words

Romantic Nature Mythical beasts, Hybridisation/Mutation, Destroyed & Poetic,Comforting, Minimalism, Elegy to Silence.

Spirit Of Materials

Aspect, touch

Substantial Softness, Mutant Materials

Hybrids and mutations lead the dance. Materials Marled, scrambled, diffused are scrambled, marled, felted, woolly, reassuring, effectsTweedy, shaggy lookTorn, rubbed, or in a range state of flux vegetal, animal The isbetween, in hibernation, peopled by the muted neutrals of the furworn of look softCurly animals, the effect, uncombedTexture and human. Natural skins that have been barely of river fish, the pale yellow of chick of flannel or drape uniformsFledgling blue-grey of cats, the grey-green down, andforthe mimetic processed, scorched crust, foamy nubuck. feathers, rabbit hair Curly fur, soft greens of prehistoric animals.

Speckled, dotted surface, micro-designs. furNatural and coloured sheepskin.

COLOUR PALETTE

Colour Palette

The range is in hibernation, peopled by the muted neutrals of the fur of soft animals, the blue-grey of cats, the grey-green of river fish, the pale yellow of chick down, and the mimetic greens of prehistoric animals.

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“I have always followed an idea which finished differently” Georg Baselitz A/W 2013-14|Fashion Forecasts|RTW 113

If mathematics is: “abstract knowledge constructed using logical reasoning”, then oscillations of thought heckle them and question them.

Abstraction becomes poetry and quantum mechanics an ironic anagram: La quadrature du cercle / calcul rare du détraqué.

“I have always followed an idea which finished differently”

Mathematical Undulation Georg Baselitz Attribution of behavioural or morphological human characteristics to other bodies.

Metamorphosis, metempsychosis, a new bestiary generates a mutation of the species and the temptation to reincarnate oneself as a mythical beast.

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Key Words

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Construction

r a t r a r

constRUction Scientific calculation Numbers and letters In equilibrium Binary rhythms Oscillation Minimalist requirement Innovative materials Kaleidoscopes and optical effects Developing 3D

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS Materials are substantial and light. We think of lightweight construction materials. They are balanced and strong, or very fine and resistant so as to create a protective shell.

u r e d u c e r c l e e d u d é t r a q u é

Scientific calculation, Numbers and letters, In equilibrium, Binary rhythms, Oscillation, Minimalist requirement, Innovative materials, Kaleidoscopes and optical effects, Developing 3D

Spirit Of PALETTE Materials COLOUR Materials are substantial and light.

We think of The range is grating and dissonant and adopts new harmonies: lightweight construction materials. They are ordinate, the off-white, drained pink and toxic green clash with balanced and strong, or very fine and resistant bottle green whilst the vector brown takes the tangent. so as to create a protective shell.

Colour Palette

KEY WORDS

Aspect, touch Technical compacts, New constructions, New cut-outs and perforations, Working with double-sided materials, Sandwiches: Leather, foam, jersey, Double skin stretch leathers, Scientific Along the abscissa and prints: Grids, nets, Mathematical the weaving, amberGeometric sine, modelling micro-designs, Light quilting, Lightened, Neoprene, Digital graphic prints

The range is grating and dissonant and adopts new harmonies: Along the abscissa and ordinate, the off-white, drained pink and toxic green clash with the amber sine, modelling bottle green whilst the vector brown takes the tangent.

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Georg Baselitz 114

|Fashion Forecasts |A/W 2013-14 IfRTW mathematics is: “abstract knowledge constructed using logical reasoning”, then oscillations of thought heckle them and question them.

Abstraction becomes poetry and quantum mechanics an ironic anagram: La quadrature du cercle / calcul rare du détraqué.

Melancoliemania A vague and undefined state of sadness “Melancholy is the joy of being sad” Victor Hugo

Introspection is heightened. We can cry in peace at last and give free rein to our «melancholimania” with its excessive romanticism, which we have been deprived of for so long by the Zen attitude. l

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Key Words

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KEY WORDS

constRUction Scientific calculation Numbers and letters In equilibrium Binary rhythms Oscillation Minimalist requirement Innovative materials Kaleidoscopes and optical effects Developing 3D

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS Materials are substantial and light. We think of lightweight construction materials. They are balanced and strong, or very fine and resistant so as to create a protective shell.

u r e d u c e r c l e e d u d é t r a q u é

Enhanced By Time Draw on the past to create modernityPlaces of memoryMix up the archivesThe strata of time moving onHistorical referencesCombinations of eras.

COLOUR PALETTE

Spirit OfisMaterials The range grating and dissonant and adopts new harmonies: Storytelling ordinate, pink and toxic green clash with Materials tell athe story;off-white, they are tragic,drained lyrical, bottle green the vector redecorated, prints whilst are faded, screen prints brown takes the tangent. have deteriorated. Rich and warm embossing.

Colour Palette

Aspect, Touch Upholstery Spirit

Tapestry, Paisley spirit, Faded flowers, wallpapers, Inspired by uniforms, Vintage jacquards, mixed and re-coloured, Along the abscissa and Layer upon layer of oxidised lace, the amber modelling Illuminatedsine, historical grains, Embroidery, crest patches, blazons, Embroidered nubuck, Faded velvet, Moleskin, Felted soldier blanket: Giant checks and stripes.

The range is grey and shaded. It wanders from slate to muted anemone, and scatters the names of romantic muses: Beatrice blue, Elvira violet, Hernani grey, Lucretia red, Sylvie pearly white, Constance silver, without forgetting the black sun of melancholy, (“Gérard de Nerval”).

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“A laugh is the leap of the possible into the impossible” Georges Bataille A/W 2013-14|Fashion Forecasts|RTW “While some see them as the crazy ones, we see genius” Steve Jobs «We should laugh before being happy for fear of dying without having laughed» Jean de La Bruyère

Jubilation

Great and expansive joy which manifests itself by outward signs.

“A laugh is the leap of the possible into the impossible” Georges Bataille “While some see them as the crazy ones, we see genius” Steve Jobs

KEY WORDS

EncoURAGE UnExPEctED coMbinAtion Invasive decors «We should laugh before being happy for fear of dying without having laughed» Combine designs and decors Jean de La Bruyère Flashy excess Shatter the rules of elegance Golden festival Folk expression/ junior explosion Arty mixes Baroque over-statement Gently ferocious

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS AlMost kitsch A new baroque: Rare animals, enriched materials, shimmering surfaces, omnipresent decors.

Key Words

Encourage Unexpected Combination

Invasive decors, Combine designs and decors, Flashy excess, Shatter the rules of elegance, Golden festival, Folk expression/ junior explosion, Arty mixes, Baroque over-statement, Gently ferocious.

Aspect, touch

Facetted leathers, Opulent furs, Ruffled hair, Mongolian goat, Shiny suede, Gold on the crest, Resized and blended grain, Glints of rainbow fish, The range is spiky, sexy and theatrical. Deep purples and reds, sombre plums, changing Changing, redecorated, repainted, green, flamboyant rust, bewitched by a vibrant black and soothed by an elegant taupe.

Varnished croco, disco serpent, Almost Kitsch Colours invade the screen red,reliefs. tragic black, A new baroque: Rare animals, enriched in dark spurts tempered by neutrals. Brownish Unexpected materials, omnipresent sulphurshimmering yellow, surfaces, suffering green, dried earth, taupe brown. decors.

COLOUR PALETTE

Spirit Of Materials

Colour Palette

The range is spiky, sexy and theatrical. Deep purples and reds, sombre plums, changing green, flamboyant rust, bewitched by a vibrant black and soothed by an elegant taupe. Colours invade the screen in dark spurts tempered by neutrals. Brownish red, tragic black, sulphur yellow, suffering green, dried earth, taupe brown.

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A 6th sense‌

The sense of accessories Avalanche of crystals and reflective materials, Extravagance and a fantastic bestiary, Baroque opulence and surrealism, Between splendor and cosmic sublimations Accessories give sense to our appearance. With wit and impertinence, they question our own 6th sense of fashion. A fashion where anything is possible between a future-present and a recomposed past Beyond appearances. Accessories invite us To go through the Looking-Glass‌Spirit, are you there?

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Supernova Celestial objects in lively colours and faraway galaxies, Sheath dresses for mermaids with sequins, splashed of stardust, rhinestones, reflective materials...

Keyfacts Stardust glitter sequins Faceted cabochons Embroidered constellations Prismatic Plexiglas Sublime coatings Sub-lunar metallics Polarized moirĂŠs Electroluminescent outlines Colours Cosmic blue Spirit violet Uranus turquoise Supernova yellow Nebulous grey

Allegory Languid and refined romanticism of the English Pre-Raphaelite painters, Rossetti and Burne-Jones. Diaphanous skin and luxurious hair, flamboyant materials and artistic details...

Keyfacts Flocked brocades Pomp oversized braids and cords Medieval braids Embossed Cordovan leather Enamels and filigrees Clasps-buckles, fibulas Rubies, garnets, sapphires Colours Cosmic blue Sepia brown Mystical bordeaux Baroque pink Pre-Raphaelite rust

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« À Rebours » A big, chic, kitsch bazaar shakes up forms and colours in a collision of styles. Crazy humor and vintage remakes, bizarre ladies and gentlemen turn the tables on an esthetically incorrect, baroque style...

Keyfacts Novelty tweeds Velvet jacquards X-large checked tartan Handknit cables Crocheted lace collars Bonded, kitsch tapestries Porcelain jewelry and charms Leopard prints Colours Spirit violet Medium green Lamplight yellow Porcelain blue Kitsch flesh

Gotham City A seething, urban metropolis inspired by comic strips. Super-heros and the Batmobile, Catwoman and her feline seduction blend in the black, sulfury universe of 40’s and 50’s American detective novels.

Keyfacts Glossy vinyls Sulfury latex Micro-motif linings Gunmetal finishings Strain-hardened copper Pinstripes Lustrous astrakhan and beaver Coated knit Colours Lamplight yellow Cosmic blue Steel blue Eclipse black Asphalt grey

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Full Moon The Valley of No Return and sleeping princesses, mysterious spells and lady vixens who only come out at night, enchanted castles and petrified forests, one-way mirrors, and imaginary bestiary, beauties and beasts Ă la Cocteau, twilight and animal morphing, tell a luxurious, baroque and bewitching tale...

Keyfacts Oxidized bronze chimaera Sublimated leather Iridescent foliage and branches Patinated cracks Petrified bramble jewelry Worn, jagged finishings DevorĂŠ panne velvet Dotted metallization Colours Mystical bordeaux Petrified khaki Acqua alta Ghostly parma Antique bronze

Digital Paradise White paradise Cristalized nature and digital art, cryogenics and frosty transparencies let us wander through our inner landscapes...

Keyfacts Fleecy flockings Cristaline wires Borealis colours scale Frosted PVC beads Cryogenicized vegetation Frosty transparencies Powdery quilteds A tulle vortex Colours Borealis pink Digital red Frosted grey Acqua alta Flocked white

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Clash of plenty

Inspirations A/W 2013-14

Retrofitted Future

Keywords

Fabric

Colour Notes

Cool 50s, 60s Retro Fiction Pastels for Classic Prude Innocent Sci-Fi Material + Pattern Mix

Lace Flowers Retro Sporty Knits Light Padded Transparent Coating Retro Futuristic

Cool Design Pastellic Harmonies Faded Neon Pink Functional Checks Metallic Spots

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Aura of paranoia

Keywords

Austere Elegance Gothic Sacral Mystery Glamour Feminine meets Power Varnish, Leather, Silk Chic

Fabrics

Big Jewellery Uniformal Strength Lack n Leather Neon Middle Age Daily Lingerie

All Over Decoration Cat Woman Liquid Finishing + Printing Sculptured Baroque Width

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CAlculated freakmix

Keywords

Fabric

Colour Notes

Multi Mix Chic No Limits, No Rules Volume Play Ironic Folk Melange Fluo Traditions

Faded Checks Multi Flowers Random + Mirror Prints Mixed Folklore Loud Pattern inside

Mix Match Printing Asian Elements Happy Renaissance Full Colour Accessories Knitted Multi Pattern

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Came, Saw, Conquered

Keywords

Fabric

Colour Notes

Luxury Show Off Fur Leather Trophy Riding, Hunting, Polo Precious Animal Prints Chic Link to Nature

Leather + Fur Patch Padded Gloss Total Knit Silk Meets Tweed Rembrandt Flowers

Simply Classic Versace Honour All Rich Cosy Decadent Hues Casual Nobility

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Discover.RE

Keywords

Fabric

Colour Notes

Glow & Sparkling Super Sexy Stretch Imitated Denim + Leather Double Colouring Coating Material Mix Match

Copper & Petrol Dark Blue, Dark Green Double Colouring Indigo + Colour Mirror Finishing Lasered Motives

Jersey Look in Woven Denim Woven Pattern Inside Tailored Details High Faded Stretch for Everything

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Inspirational Merino Wool Trends Autumn/Winter 2013-14

The Wool Lab presents Nine inspirational themes for Autumn-Winter 2013/14, amongst which are some macro-trends that move through fashion and lifestyle with endurable influence.

Others emerge as new trends that reflect the esprit du temps and the upcoming needs of the future market. Perhaps the most interesting of these emerging new trends is the Urban theme which proposes wool products in a street, young, cosmopolitan way, whilst pushing the casual concept to a more refined and quality-oriented aesthetic. The Urban theme is represented by three different moods with different styles, colours, inspirations and materials forming a complete overview of the metropolitan lifestyle of young consumers. Each theme showcased here, is represented by a collection of yarns and fabrics that are commercially available, as well as some exclusive pieces from Woolmark’s archives, to stimulate a contemporary reinterpretation.

Dandy The Dandy theme takes its inspiration from a cultured, exclusive and slightly romantic style. Emulating the elegance of the end of the nineteenth century, the collection is inspired by a desire to live a sophisticated life and to “live life as a work of art�. A set of clothes made of tailored suits and coats to represent a formal taste, completed by accessories and particular details. Classic weaves and colors for 100% wool fabrics or blended with other noble fibres.

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Brooklyn Scenario and inspiration captured from the 1940s and the lifestyle of the American upper middle-class, with particular reinterpretation and modern relaxed accents to appeal to a younger generation.

Traditional weaves and structured jackets play leading roles in this trend. Natural tones and colours are accented with highlights of teal and burgundy. Fabrics are 100% wool or blended with other noble fibres.

Witness Inspired by the film “Witness�, set in the Amish community in Pennsylvania, this theme identifies severity, but at the same time an exorcism towards it. The fit is large and functional, which is reflective of how the theme traditionally appears in rural communities who need to be comfortable and practical. The fabrics are mostly in 100% Merino wool, traditionally heavy weight, with dark colour combinations and severe structures.

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Black Swan Theatrical inspiration with art-deco accents.

Baroque mood inspires graphic elements also for men’s fabrics and patterns. Wool is presented in desirable textures and fabrics with embossed effects. Hand-made knits inspire knitwear within the theme with innovative and avant-garde yarns and stitches. 100% wool or blended with natural, lightweight fibres, such as viscose, silk or cotton. The colour palette has a predominance of dark nuances: black, prune, purple, burgundy, with accents in red, white and bronze.

Murano This ultra-feminine trend has been interpreted

by The Wool Lab in a sophisticated and elegant way, particularly evident through the use of colour. The colour palette includes delicate tones inspired by the houses in the Venetian Laguna; tones of pale pink powder and orange, mixed with colder tones in green aquamarine and baby blue.

Sophisticated fabrics and knitwear, 100% wool or blended with noble fibres such as cashmere, camel, mohair and silk.

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Pure Each new edition of The Wool Lab, has a theme called Pure. This theme offers a wide rage of new inspiration. The wool is suitable for eco-friendly and eco-sustainable situations, highlighting the green soul of Merino wool.

Yarns and fabrics are processed without the use of artificial dyes and chemical treatments, aiming to show the natural lightness, fineness and softness of this fiber. Wool here is mixed with natural raw materials such as linen, cotton and hemp, for a “cosy� authentic and poetic look.

Asphalt The theme has a street-style interpretation, for the younger metropolitan generation, evoking features of everyday life: from sky to asphalt, 100% wool or blended with cotton to offer different ranges of grey.

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Berlin The utility trend inspired by the suburban look in the North of Europe with military accents taken from the Teutonic population. Different tones of cord and green with orange, okra and burgundy accents. Fabrics are heavy-weight, flannels and felts.

Detroit Here the utility trend is re-appropriated to a “worker� trend, inspired by American working clothes of the 1950s, during the economic boost in the automobile industry. Different ways of blending wool with cotton or linen all in cold colors.

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Spin Expo For A/W 2013/14, we feel it is time to start writing a new story, a story about the life we want to live in and not the story we have been living in. We have been living through times of constant change that have created all aspects of life experiences. We have discovered these experiences and our belongings only define us if we let them define us and that experiencing life is not so much about what happens to us but much more about how we react to it. So it is time to take charge and start to write our own story...The SPINEXPO trends for A/W 2013/14 have explored this idea reflecting on how this interprets into four strong global trend messages we see emerging for the season ahead...

Prologue Mood

Creating an opening to a story that establishes the setting through research and historical references. Looking at ancestral heritage and provenance spanning centuries of the artisan from the garden, to the kitchen to arts and crafts.

Referencing traditions through history such as the glow of stained glass, the exquisite harmonies of tapestries, the lustre of fabrics such as damasks and silks.

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Traditions that are handed down from generation to generation, handing on skills, recipes and knowledge, continuing the provenance of the family or culture however much time passes. There is an air of Puritanism and an ecclesiastical reverence to this look, being both thankful and spiritual.

Colours Colours are taken from the saturated warm tones of root vegetables , beetroot reds, raddish pinks, ginger rusts, olive and fennel greens and deep dark forest tones.

Yarns • • • • •

Yarns in themselves are crafted out of traditional techniques, marls, tweeds, slubs and textures.

Lustrous and velvety as well as matt and softly peached.

High surface hair blending silks with mohair and cashmeres with angoras for blurred looks.

Burnished metals twisted, blended or coated for subtle shimmer effects.

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Genre Mood

This trend enters a whole new world of mystery, magic and fables, giving rise to high drama in fabrics, colours and inspiration. Inspired by eclectic old artifacts, ancient mythology and curiosities from a much grander past era. Exquisite embellishment that hints at something darker. Inspiration from old childrens fairy tales of bugs and butterflies, to fairies and serpents. Dark and gothic in mood yet fun and fantastical in pattern and colour, blurring the boundaries between day wear into evening.

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A sense of the theatrical by exaggerated patterns and fantastical imagery. Inspired by eclectic old artefacts, ancient mythology and curiosities from a much grander past era. A sense of the surreal, of dark shadows, deep forests, folkloric legends that retells the story with a playful twist yet with an elegant edge.

Colours Colours are intensely dark alternatives to black, instead use midnight blues, deep teals, saturated purples and sea greens, brought to life by vibrant pinks, decadent golds and velvety mauves.

Yarns • •

Yarns shimmer and shine in an iridescent way. Molten and fluid, drapey and silky, both lustrous and satiny smooth. Highly brushed and hairy, almost fur like. Excitingly colourful melanges in mohairs and angoras that diffuse the colour in a misty way.

Tarnished sparkle and glitter, from Lurex, fibre to jewels and sequins. Velvety and soft in look and texture.

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Narrative Mood

Cozy creations for a glamorous cocooning look with celebrity status, using furs, plush velours, lofty handmade creations, quilting and animal skins. Making a statement that is stylish and fashionable yet effortless and comfortable. From whimsical, luxe interiors that are discreetly ornate, to strong style statements that have a 1960s more minimal flavour.

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16-1542 TPX FRESH SALMON

14-1116 TPX ALMOND BUFF

12-1304 TPX P EARL

16-1333 TPX DOE

14-0955 TPX C ITRUS 16-1542 TPX FRESH SALMON

14-1116 TPX ALMOND BU

12-1304 TPX P EARL

16-1356 TPX P ERSIMMON ORANGE 14-0955 TPX C ITRUS 16-1542 TPX FRESH SALMON

Everything has a gilded edge of luxury and a slight sense of kitsch or nostalgia, to write both the humour and harmony back into our lives. A confident trend of reassuring references to times when we feel safe, comfortable and entertained, rich in style and panache.

18-1112 TPX W ALNU T 16-1333 TPX DOE 14-1116 TPX ALMOND BUFF Yarns are warm and cozy, brushed and soft. Furry

Yarns •

Colours

•

Colours give a sense of golden glow from matte gold to marmalade oranges and sweet corals and fiery reds, to warm camels and vicunas grounded in deep dark browns.

•

looks with high surface hair still important. Surface texture created in nubby yarns, uneven textures and unusual twists.

Gold is a key statement, but not necessarily to glitter, more molten, or glossy, matte softly hidden. Plush, velvety sheen and silky looks that are rich and glowing and warm to touch.

18-166416-1356 TPX FIERY TPX P RED ERSIMMON ORANGE 14-0955 TPX C ITRUS

14-1116 TPX ALMOND BUFF

19-1314 TPX18-1112 SEAL BRO N T TPX WWALNU 16-1333 TPX DOE

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Epilogue Mood Austerity and a sense of puritanism where things are crisp and starched. Allowing for the highly decorative to embellish a life otherwise serious, controlled and restrained. Extremely elegant and refined is contrasted with an air of frivolity in lacey looks, trinkets and bows, allowing for a grand finale to the story.

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18-3918 TPX C HINA BLUE

14-4102 TPX GLA C IER GRAY

19-4205 TPX PH

19-4205 TPX PHAN TOM

18-3918 TPX C H 11-1005 TPX BRIDAL BLUSH

12-4609 TPX S TARLIGH T BLUE

19-4205 TPX PHAN TOM

18-3918 TPX C HINA BLUE

14-4102 TPX GLA C IER GR

19-4205 TPX PHAN TOM

19-4205 TPX PHAN TOM

12-4609 TPX S TAR 18-3918 TPX C HINA BLUE

17-4021 TPX FADED DENIM

16-1414 TPX C HAN TERELLE

11-1005 TPX BRIDAL BLU 12-4609 TPX S TARLIGH TYarns BLUE 18-3918 TPX C HINA BLUE 14-4102 TPX GLA C IER GRAY • All levels of colour could be shown in yarns that are very

A chilly mood of frosted and crystallized forms, which take the natural into the futuristic through the beauty of winter that Mother Nature imbues. Strongly graphic and geometric, that could be both retro and modernist at the same time.

matte or high shine through to metallic. Fine, crisp counts, highly twisted and extremely clean. Polished and smooth, almost glass like in appearance. Chainette and cobweb like. Frosted and pearlised, jeweled and encrusted.

Superfine luxury that allows for sheers and transparencies.

18-3918 TPX C HINA BLUE

Colours

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Colours reflect this icy mood from almost black, through steel greys, to cool greenish blues. Winter white, taupe and faded lilacs offer a warmer depth to soften the mood.

17-4021 TPX FADE 14-4102 GLA C IER TPX GRAY PHAN TOM12-4609 TPX S TARLIGH T BLUE 19-4205 TPX PHAN TOM TPX 19-4205

19-3906 TPX DARK SHADO W DENIM 17-4021 TPX FADED 12-4609 TPX S TARLIGH T BLUE

15-1905 TPX BRUSHED LILAC 16-1414 TPX C HAN TERE

11-1005 TPX BRIDAL BLUSH

12-4609 TPX S TARLIGH T BLUE

TPX PHAN TOM 18-3918 TPX 19-4205 C HINA BLUE

11-10

19-3906 TPX DARK 14-4102 TPX GLA C IER GRAY 17-4021 TPX FADED DENIM

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Conscientious Ricochet

Recycling, Reflections, Returns, Ricochets‌ The hydro-elementary basis retains our attention. The reflective surface of the wave brings back, throughout these different structures, the image of purity.

The minimalistic nature portrays the outlines of an intelligent return. Hybriding our soul, the cold reflection of the primary resource captivates our ecological conscience. The surreal hydration of the mind washes and purifies our devastating guilt. The organic cycle stands as the absolute model.

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Feeling & Materials Aspects The waterproof transparencies will play back to back with lightness.

The heterogeneous and intelligent layers answer our desire to recycle. The long pelisse and the wavy surface will mix with the broken curves of the hydro-aesthetics. The gelify aspect will soften the dry and breakable cottons. The humidified appearances and the humid patterns will draw a new aesthetic to coincidence.

Washing, Tie Dye, Washed-out, Faded, Whitened, Diluted, Soaked… the patterns and prints will play “Cleanliness”. The dissolved and diffused weaving will supplant the artificial rigors. The wooly and raw aspect will bring traditional consonances from the cold North.

Fibers The fibers from the sustainable development swamp the fleetingness of the synthetics. The naturals interlace and reinforce themselves. The cotton re-imposes itself. The artificial ecodevelopments imitate his appearance. Softness and force are the key words to the fibrous complicity.

14-3612 TPX 19-3730 TPX

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Focus Denim

The organic and aqueous aspects are alongside the iridescence of crystallized drops. The brutality of the denim tints engorges itself of infinite faded shades. The strength of the water is poured into deep tints, preserving this last resource.

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Fundamental Awakening

The dawn of the austere future diverts our stare from the selfish reflections. The community awakening develops our fraternal instincts. Like tribes with secular behavior, our reconciliation unifies us, like a family. The simple values echo in our vital needs. From the union of our elementary intentions is born a new innocent aesthetic.

The Authoritarian Nature fuses and shapes, with harmony, the allegory of a polyglot region. The naive feeling takes the agreed aesthetic and distinguishes with lightness the “stricto sensu-al�.

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Feeling & Materials Aspects The rural tradition of the woolen, quilted and padded prides of noble fibers. The comforting aspect of the soft boutis will comfort the land with the souvenirs of English embroideries and guipure.

The felted areas, quilts, lightweight felt, and the oiled cloth play a concert of Gaelic arpeggios. Far from the western cowboys, the Northern checked blooms like a clan on cretonne, cotton veil, linen, and wool. All the sheep family and her comforting fleece are praised: the teeming curls. The ancient cuffs and gabardines enclose the preciousness of fabrics with engraved memories.

Fibers Profound Nature: the expression of the natural essence of the fiber. The animal provenance is established with the wool and weaved furs. Cotton, obviously, but also ramie, linen and hemp that offer all their brutality to the expression with a natural austerity.

The mesh will beautify themselves with fluffy and strin gy fibers, just like pashmina and angora. The jerseys on the skin will choose techniques with soft skin effects.

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Focus Denim

The traditional Denim blue (“Bleu de Nîmes”) will leave its place to an ocher and sol palette. Gaelic accents and soft fades award the baize unctuousness nearly sweet. The details in the cloth especially with the weave will complete this bucolic language. The acidulous humor of sweet touches awards an “adulescente” naivety.

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Quixotic Reincarnation

After the dark dusk, our new vision will follow the darkened splendors of Nature. The past’s mistakes; visible scars of an oppressing hand; the melancholic lyricism of Nature that implores, disrupts our apprehension towards her. At the preamble of our new way of being, the imaginary souvenir of children’s tales paints our faces with strange animal singularities. The ghostly apparition of our reflection projects us at the border of reality.

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Feeling & Materials Aspects The foggy and light envelop of the chiffons, cloths, evanescent mesh and veil symbolically dissimulates the skin. The skin is back in the foreground with epidermal and skin touch aspects. The games of dermal fabric will accentuate with shades off skin colors.

The shades of similar tones will develop the curiosity of hidden patterns. The skin aspect is declined in many ways: colt, elephant, coarse fur, soft fur, peach skin‌ the satins and crepes will hum a language between shadow and light. Caped in velvet and rigorous drapery, a scaled body astonishes us by its brightness.

Fibers Brightness and reflected shades will be the leitmotif for the composition. The silky and satin aspects will bring forward the natural provenance of the fabric. The tough resistance will serve the ghostly feeling with lightness. From the artificial and the synthetics will emerge diaphanous chimeras and smoky feeling fabrics.

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Focus Denim

Hybrid of the skin, the denim becomes dermis. A palette of pinkish skin colors and accents of earthly colors embraces the denim fabrics like a second skin. The polished, the skin-touched, the faded, glorify the satin and precious aspect. The iridescent pearl blossoms into a smoky volute. The spirit of a fantasy ride, like a mystical quest, hangs on the serge.

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Virtuous Revival

We always pay the price one day.

At the doom of our existence, the modern doubts attack and undermine our past certitudes.

And if, instead of “over-charging�, we capitalized on our skills? The materialistic opulence of the decorative golden age is back and raises a historical dialogue with our minimalistic contemporary.

The memorable affection of simpler times composes a zany marquetry, on the verge of confusion. The intimacy of memories resurfaces. A joyful smile regains our faces. Generations come together like dissonant and oriental mosaics.

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Feeling & Materials Aspects “Assembling” reigns and announces the historical comeback.

Game of dissonant harmony and opposed geometry. A strong and marked graphical language flourishes of past allusions and accessories. The polished, the vynils and varnished will come and support matified satins. The color is velveted, the patterns are precise and faded. Cosmopolitan art deco from the 50’s, 60’s & 70’s breaks out of the archives and inspires a new ornamented dialect. The allusions to British tailoring are numerous, sort of new oriental colonialism in a repertoire Arte-povera. The jacquard exalts its technicality.

Fibers The historical work of the spinning will be put forward. The mesh with big gauge and the imperfect naturals will rub shoulders with fibrous silks and rustic cottons. Horsehair, linen, hemp, jute, ramie will play their softness card. The synthetics, similarly to crepe and nylon will do their big comeback. They will create authenticity with their natural looking aspect.

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Focus Denim

Straightforward tons with a reference to vintage will color the serge. The lacquered spreading, like an old Polaroid, will echo the satin icings. The Overall of denim tints, with a neo-classical feel of historical connotations, will print the fabric. The 60’s will translate into strong rigidness, corrected by ultra soft touch.

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