Food

The Feathers, Ludlow

R Pernickety has held back from reviewing the re-ordered Feathers Hotel in Ludlow for several months since it reopened, in order to approach the task without prejudice, for Mr P has always endeavoured to perform his function in a spirit of fairness. In the case of The Feathers, he will admit that he was so aghast at the way this venerable, distinguished building has been refurbished, that he didn’t think it possible to find anything positive to say about it. How this happened is a puzzle. To make a beautiful old building look good inside it requires only an understanding of its history and an empathy with it to find textiles, floor coverings and furniture that will resonate with the outstanding authentic C17th timber carvings and plaster mouldings it possesses. The new owners clearly had no such empathy and compounded this by hiring a ‘designer’ who has committed some serious crimes of cultural vandalism. They have, for instance, laid laminate, fake ‘oak boards’ in the very entrance of this historic building. It’s true to say that The Feathers, a famously handsome structure, has offered at best indifferent hospitality for many years. The former owners never did anything to realise the tremendous potential of the place, then lost all credibility when they allowed an outbreak of Legionnaire’s disease, leading to a fatality, which closed the place. The hotel was then bought cheaply by Crest Hotels, who have no visible track record of operating distinguished hotels. Thus it was with considerable misgivings that Mr P and his old friend, the Wrinkle Rocker, and former chef, booked a table for dinner in the main dining-room. Stifling the visual distress caused by the splatter carpets, shiny faux industrial lighting and ugly furniture – they were shown to their corner table. A young waiter arrived promptly with the menu. Mr P and his guest were struck at once by the sheer ambitiousness of the menu. The prices looked high, especially for Ludlow. However, they were prepared to be optimistic that the chef could deliver. The young waiter, who told them he was in the middle of his GCSE mocks, took their order efficiently and helpfully and shortly afterwards they were served an amuse bouche – a tiny tump of delicious steak tartare, accompanied by a small orange blob which turned out to be a poached quail yoke, with an interesting texture but not much flavour. To drink, Mr P requested an apple juice and was served a Britvic juice, not one of the excellent local versions. The M

WR chose a Chilean Carmenere @ £6.95 a large glass. It was fine, he said, and he didn’t care about the price because he wasn’t paying. The WR’s starter arrived: Home Cured Gin Salmon, Crab Coriander and chilli Salad, Pomegranate, Dill Emulsion (£9.50) for the WR. He took a few mouthfuls and nodded his approval. The spoonful of crab salad on the tump of gin-soaked salmon made a good coupling, though he thought the salmon needed a shot more acid – some lemon juice, probably. Mr P’s Duo of Wood Pigeon, Confit Leg of Pigeon, Pan Fried Breast, Celeriac Purée, Brandy-soaked Prunes, although presented on a hideous oblong plate (all the crockery looked Woolworths, c 1970) appeared right, and so it proved. The confit was light and cleverly conceived, the breasts perfect and well balanced by the prune and celeriac. Mr P and his guest looked at one another in slight surprise; so far, so good. The WR’s main course was Roasted Breast of Barbary Duck, Parma Ham & Redberry mousse, sweet potato fondant, and Buttered Caballero Nero. This last typo startled the WR, who assumed it should have been Cavolo Nero – black kale. ‘Caballero’, as most people know, means gentleman. But he was well-pleased by the dish. His craggy visage lit up. ‘The confit is super,’ he muttered with his mouth full, ‘and the breast deliciously rare.’ Mr P specified that he wanted his Peppered Loin of Venison with Juniper & Red Wine Jus (£24.95) to be served rare, and it was, though a little under-seasoned and the jus a tad bland; nevertheless it was an impressive and enjoyable dish. He and his guest ended with a Peanut Butter Parfait, and, for Mr P a pair of Crepes Suzettes (£7.50) which were too thick and heavy and would have been better served straight from the pan at the table. They concluded that, taken overall, dinner at The Feathers, had by any standards been exceptionally well cooked and served (albeit on a very quiet night) and was probably as good as any on offer in Ludlow at the moment. Whether it is worth tolerating the heart-rending horrors of the surroundings is, frankly, doubtful. The truth is that ambience, as Mr Pernickety has reiterated consistently over the years, is as important to the enjoyment of food as the skill of the chef, and though Mr P commends the food at The Feathers, he won’t be going back there to eat again.

Mr Pernickety

EVENTS Thurs 2 April EASTER VEGETARIAN COOKERY COURSE Guided and helped by Milly, create four versatile dishes and sweet treats. Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre, Craven Arms, £35, bring storage containers and tubs so you can take your goodies home. Booking essential, 01588 676060. Fri 3 April & Fri 1 May FREE TASTING DAY - SWAN BREWERY 3 April - Bald Eagle 3.5% American Pale Ale; fund raising head shave 4.30pm; pizza , 9am-8pm. 1 May - Swan on the Wye, 4/2% beer in the spotlight + 4 other cask ales. Japanese food from Miniyakis, 9am-8pm. Swan Brewery, Unit 17 Brunel Rd, Enterprise Park, Leominster, 01568 617709. Fri 10 April EASTER COOKING Make Easter treats such as devilled chicks, cotton tail biscuits and hot cross buns. Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre, Craven Arms, 10am-11.30am, £7.50 per accompanied 3-11 year old, booking essential, 01588 676060. Every Saturday LUDLOW COUNTRY MARKET 9am-12pm at The Womens Centre, Ludlow. Local produce, handicrafts, plants & veg, cut flowers, cards. First Saturday of every month (except August) FARMER’S MARKET Produce, craft, gifts, kitchen cafe open. Eaton Bishop Village Hall, 10am-12pm. First Saturday of every month PRESTEIGNE LOCAL FOOD MARKET Memorial Hall Presteigne, 9am-1pm. The best collection of artisan food producers in the area. 2nd and 4th Saturday of every month KNIGHTON COMMUNITY MARKET Knighton Community Centre, 9.30am-12.30pm, 07751 221487. Third Saturday of every month PRODUCE MARKET Hightown Community Rooms, Vicarage Rd. Clun, 10.00am - 12.00pm. 01588 641180. Third Saturday of every month FARMER’S MARKET Bishop’s Castle Town Hall, 9am-1pm, 01588 630023. First Thursday EVENING FARMER’S MARKET The Barn, Ledbury, HR8 1EA, 6-8pm. www.ledburyfoodgroup.org Every Thursday MONTGOMERY TOWN MARKET Regular stalls on the lower floor. First Thurs of the month, using both floors with community cafe. Open 9am-3pm, www.montgomery-wales.co.uk/market 07790 100462. Every Thursday HAY MARKET DAY Local produce, meat and fish, hot food, artisan bread, cakes, crafts, vintage, plants. Memorial Square and Clock Tower, Hay-on-Wye, 9am-2.30pm, www.haymarkets.co.uk Every 2nd & 4th Thursday LUDLOW LOCAL PRODUCE MARKET Castle Square, 9am-2pm, 01584 872043. Every Friday KINGTON PRODUCE/CRAFTS MARKET Market Hall, Kington, 9am-1pm, 07867 483135.

AARDVARK BOOKS LTD, THE BOOKERY, MANOR FARM, BRAMPTON BRYAN, BUCKNELL 01547 530888 Cafe serving refreshments, cakes etc. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10am-5pm. BLEDDFA CENTRE READING ROOM CAFE 01547 550377 11am – 5pm every Saturday and Sunday (as well as Friday and Mondays on Bank Holiday). Teas, coffees, cake and soup. www.bleddfacentre.org 01547 550377 hello@bleddfacentre.org THE GREEN BEAN CAFE, WEOBLEY 01544 318865 Good, locally sourced, homemade food. Soups, all day light lunches, cakes and scones. Set in the heart of Weobley. Free wifi. Tues-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat 9.30am-4pm. With The Green Bean Shop/Deli under the same roof. THE HEREFORDSHIRE GOLF CLUB, WORMSLEY, HR4 8LY Open daily for food and beverage also a Sunday Carvery 12.30pm-3pm every week, one course £10.95 two courses, £14.95. We can also cater for your private event, price includes free room hire. Call our Catering Team on 01432 830219, option 3. THE ORGASMIC CIDER COMPANY, GREAT PARTON, EARDISLEY, HEREFORDSHIRE, HR3 6NX 01544 327244 or 07773 037448 Craft cider and perry off licence and gift shop with local products. Open Friday and Saturday 12 to 5pm. Group tours available. THE WORKHOUSE CAFE, INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, PRESTEIGNE 01544 267864 Cafe, gallery, light lunches, good coffee, homemade cakes. Mon - Sat 10am - 4pm. RHOS MARKET GARDEN, KNIGHTON 01547 528315 Growers & providers of organic veg, fruit & flowers. Eco cleaning products & refills. Large range of groceries & whole foods. The Old Garage Shop, Knighton. Tues-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-3pm. Free parking, opposite Old Library. Friday Morning Market stall in Presteigne. Local deliveries of veg. boxes. info@rhosorganic.co.uk www.rhosorganic.co.uk RUTH WATSON RESTAURANTEUR AND PRIVATE COOK. Bespoke Food for all Occasions. Parties, special occasions, holiday home catering, pop-up food. Friendly personal service. Ring or email: 01544 350559/ 07870 752325. ruthwatsonfood@gmail.com

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