food page The Feathers, Ludlow
M
R Pernickety has held back from reviewing the re-ordered Feathers Hotel in Ludlow for several months since it reopened, in order to approach the task without prejudice, for Mr P has always endeavoured to perform his function in a spirit of fairness. In the case of The Feathers, he will admit that he was so aghast at the way this venerable, distinguished building has been refurbished, that he didn’t think it possible to find anything positive to say about it. How this happened is a puzzle. To make a beautiful old building look good inside it requires only an understanding of its history and an empathy with it to find textiles, floor coverings and furniture that will resonate with the outstanding authentic C17th timber carvings and plaster mouldings it possesses. The new owners clearly had no such empathy and compounded this by hiring a ‘designer’ who has committed some serious crimes of cultural vandalism. They have, for instance, laid laminate, fake ‘oak boards’ in the very entrance of this historic building. It’s true to say that The Feathers, a famously handsome structure, has offered at best indifferent hospitality for many years. The former owners never did anything to realise the tremendous potential of the place, then lost all credibility when they allowed an outbreak of Legionnaire’s disease, leading to a fatality, which closed the place. The hotel was then bought cheaply by Crest Hotels, who have no visible track record of operating distinguished hotels. Thus it was with considerable misgivings that Mr P and his old friend, the Wrinkle Rocker, and former chef, booked a table for dinner in the main dining-room. Stifling the visual distress caused by the splatter carpets, shiny faux industrial lighting and ugly furniture – they were shown to their corner table. A young waiter arrived promptly with the menu. Mr P and his guest were struck at once by the sheer ambitiousness of the menu. The prices looked high, especially for Ludlow. However, they were prepared to be optimistic that the chef could deliver. The young waiter, who told them he was in the middle of his GCSE mocks, took their order efficiently and helpfully and shortly afterwards they were served an amuse bouche – a tiny tump of delicious steak tartare, accompanied by a small orange blob which turned out to be a poached quail yoke, with an interesting texture but not much flavour. To drink, Mr P requested an apple juice and was served a Britvic juice, not one of the excellent local versions. The
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WR chose a Chilean Carmenere @ £6.95 a large glass. It was fine, he said, and he didn’t care about the price because he wasn’t paying. The WR’s starter arrived: Home Cured Gin Salmon, Crab Coriander and chilli Salad, Pomegranate, Dill Emulsion (£9.50) for the WR. He took a few mouthfuls and nodded his approval. The spoonful of crab salad on the tump of gin-soaked salmon made a good coupling, though he thought the salmon needed a shot more acid – some lemon juice, probably. Mr P’s Duo of Wood Pigeon, Confit Leg of Pigeon, Pan Fried Breast, Celeriac Purée, Brandy-soaked Prunes, although presented on a hideous oblong plate (all the crockery looked Woolworths, c 1970) appeared right, and so it proved. The confit was light and cleverly conceived, the breasts perfect and well balanced by the prune and celeriac. Mr P and his guest looked at one another in slight surprise; so far, so good. The WR’s main course was Roasted Breast of Barbary Duck, Parma Ham & Redberry mousse, sweet potato fondant, and Buttered Caballero Nero. This last typo startled the WR, who assumed it should have been Cavolo Nero – black kale. ‘Caballero’, as most people know, means gentleman. But he was well-pleased by the dish. His craggy visage lit up. ‘The confit is super,’ he muttered with his mouth full, ‘and the breast deliciously rare.’ Mr P specified that he wanted his Peppered Loin of Venison with Juniper & Red Wine Jus (£24.95) to be served rare, and it was, though a little under-seasoned and the jus a tad bland; nevertheless it was an impressive and enjoyable dish. He and his guest ended with a Peanut Butter Parfait, and, for Mr P a pair of Crepes Suzettes (£7.50) which were too thick and heavy and would have been better served straight from the pan at the table. They concluded that, taken overall, dinner at The Feathers, had by any standards been exceptionally well cooked and served (albeit on a very quiet night) and was probably as good as any on offer in Ludlow at the moment. Whether it is worth tolerating the heart-rending horrors of the surroundings is, frankly, doubtful. The truth is that ambience, as Mr Pernickety has reiterated consistently over the years, is as important to the enjoyment of food as the skill of the chef, and though Mr P commends the food at The Feathers, he won’t be going back there to eat again. Mr Pernickety
