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CHEESEHEAD! No, cheese on buttered bread

DNA OF A CITY Four core values from Amsterdam

ORGAN PARK A beautifully restored church



If you love flowers, visit the zoo.

175 years of Artis Royal Zoo in Amsterdam


Our Features

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RUSH ON AMSTERDAM IS AN EHAM publication

ZEG ‘KAASKOP’! (SAY ‘CHEESEHEAD’!) Want to insult a Dutchman? Call him a ‘Kaaskop’. ‘Cheesehead’ has been a derogatory term for centuries. Nevertheless, the Dutch make great cheese.

AMSTERDAM MUSEUM The Amsterdam Museum speaks of ‘the DNA of Amsterdam’. Like real DNA, the DNA of Amsterdam consists of four core values.

SALES Inez Stertefeld T 0622 - 14 27 89 E sales@rush.nl

ORGANS? WHAT ORGANS? Located in a beautifully restored church on the edge of the Vondelpark, the Orgelpark (Organ Park) is not a park as we know it.

AMSTERDAM AS A FASHION CITY Does ‘Dutch design’ also include fashion? There is certainly a point to be made here. But why not judge for yourself?

AMSTERDAM ZOO Amsterdam Zoo is somewhat different. Is the zoo there for us humans, or is the zoo there for the animals – to study us in all our different ways?

THE CITY ARCHIVE Although it’s one of the lesser-known attractions of Amsterdam, the city archive has a lot to offer visitors.

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Get a taste of what’s happening the coming months

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Arthur van der Zwan T 0652 - 69 93 95 E sales@rush.nl EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Robert van der Zwan T 0653 - 31 63 74 E editor@rush.nl ART DIRECTOR Peter Leeuwerink EDITORS Lizet Deutekom, Constanze Fluhme, Wilag Kater, Benjamin Roberts, Henry Salman, Carla van Splunteren, Evert Stel (photographer), Paola Westbeek (also English language editor) PRINTED BY Moderna (Belgium) COVER PHOTOGRAPH Amsterdam Light Festival © Janus van den Eijnden Subscriptions: ¤ 14 a year (shipping costs excluded) - please send your address to: info@rush.nl

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Wrinkle-free suits ‘out of the box’? Check out our latest gadgets and fashion

26 SHOPPING

How about a valuable gift guide with an ‘Amsterdam touch’ to it?

52 BOOK REVIEW

Russell Shorto’s book on Amsterdam tells you more about this fascinating city

60 HIP & HOT

Yes, Amsterdam has all kinds of culinary highlights to offer

66 ARTS & CULTURE

Amsterdam is about photography, paintings, theatre, sculpture and much more

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EHEAD! CHEES ese on No, che bread buttered

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A CITY DNA OF values e Four cor sterdam from Am

N PARK ORGA fully A beauti church restored 13 13:13

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OUR COVER • For yet another winter, Amsterdam embraces its Light Festival in all kinds of ways – see p. 12 (Work of art ‘1.26 Amsterdam’ by Janet Echelman)

CityRush Local Businesses & Reviews Events, Classifieds, Discount Coupons

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Say “Kaas”! Want to insult a Dutchman? call him a ‘KaasKop’. ‘cheeseheaD’ has been a Derogatory term for centuries. that’s no coinciDence. hollanD’s biggest export proDuct for centuries has been cheese.

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FEATURE

Text Benjamin Roberts Photography Benjamin Roberts, Reypenaer, Rijksmuseum

Previous pages Cheese was a main staple of the Dutch diet already in the 17th century. Floris Claesz. Van Dijck, Still Life of Cheeses (ca. 1615) (Courtesy of the Rijksmuseum). Page right The ripening of cheeses is a labour-intensive craft that requires thumping and turning wheels of cheese twice a week.

The

golden, round-shaped Gouda and red paraffin wax-wrapped Edam have become synonymous with the Netherlands, and the Dutch. Believe it or not, the export of cheeses to the rest of Europe was born out of sheer necessity. During the Middle Ages, the Netherlands was a poor country when it came to natural resources. There were no precious metals and minerals to be traded for other products. Besides wind and water, the only asset the tiny country on the North Sea had, were its rich green pastures doted with Frisian and Dutch Belted Cows. Cheese quickly became a trade product, or the gold bullion with the countries of the Baltic Sea, which were rich in lumber and grain. With Gouda and Edam, lumber and wheat were purchased to build canal houses and bake bread. Today with 1.5 million dairy cows in the Netherlands, cheese is still the gold bullion of the Dutch economy. In 2010, 752 million kilos (1.657 trillion pounds) of cheese were produced, of which 576 kilos were exported, and nearly half to Germany. Is IT “gow-dA” oR “goo-dA”? Gouda is the most widely known Dutch cheese. The cheese – recognised by its yellow, wheel-like shape – got its name from the city of Gouda where cheeses were weighed and traded. There were never any cheeses produced in the town of Gouda, it was only a market town where farmers came and sold their cheeses. Today, foreigners visiting the Netherlands might run into trouble being understood if they ask for ‘goo-da’. The correct pronunciation is ‘gow-da’ with a guttural ‘g’, similar to the Spanish ‘g’. After one American tourist was explained the difference in pronunciation, he comically quipped back in a pseudo Italian accent: “I don’t know gow-da say it, but it’s goo-da to me.” According to Guillaume Pieters, cheese master or fromager of Reypenaer Cheese Store on Singel 182 in Am-

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sterdam, “Gouda cheese is not based on any particular taste or smell. The name Gouda only signifies the round, wheel-like shape. The name Edam signifies the cannonlike form.” In 2010, the Dutch Dairy Board won a seven-year campaign with the European Union to have the two classic Dutch cheeses given a protected status. Now, only cheeses with the label ‘Dutch Gouda’ or ‘Dutch Edam’ are real Dutch cheeses. Before, labels with Dutch Gouda were produced as far away as New Zealand and Canada, and were still labelled Dutch Gouda or Edam. ThUmpIng chEEsE Five generations of the Van den Wijngaard family have been ripening Reypenaer cheeses in their warehouse in the small town of Woerden, better known as the geographical heart of Holland. For more than a hundred years, the family has been ‘thumping’ and turning wheels of cheese twice a week like clockwork. Seasoned fromagers can easily detect if a cheese wheel has accumulated gas during the fermentation process by thumping. When there are pockets of gas locked in a cheese, it turns into Swiss cheese (i.e., leaving holes behind). And the turning and rotating of cheeses, ensures the fat content is evenly distributed throughout the entire wheel. Men who ripen cheese have to be strong because each wheel can weight up to 17 kilos in the beginning. By the time the average cheese has matured, it weights from 12 to 14 kilos, as the cheese releases water during the maturing process. 60-mInUTE TAsTIng coURsE At Reypenaer Cheese Store, visitors can sample their cheeses during a 60-minute tasting course. Laymen are introduced to six cheeses, ranging from cheeses made from goat or cow milk, and aged four months to three years. Reypenaer’s dark-yellow belegen kaas is considered to be the most flavourful. From this mildly aged Gouda cheese, a slight woody taste comes to the palette. Pieters adds: “That should be no surprise, considering

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FEATURE

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FEATURE

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1. Cheese tasting at Reypenaer cheeses is a serious business. Each sample of cheese is accompanied with a glass of wine or port.

that the interior of the warehouse in Woerden is made of pine.” Reypenaer cheeses are also naturally matured; the temperature is cooled by opening the hatches of the warehouse.

2. Becoming a connoisseur of cheeses or fromager requires not only the gustatory senses, but also the olfactory. The words ‘acidic, milky, sour, barnyardy (it’s a positive), all comes to mind.

The pièce de résistance from its assortment is called Reypenaer V.S.O.P (Very Special Old Product), a twoyear-old cheese made from cow’s milk. On the tongue, it has a grainy and dry consistency, and a rich, earthy flavour. Pieters explains: “80 % of the taste comes from ageing.” When a ruby port is immediately sipped afterwards, the taste buds are overrun with a distinctively dark chocolate flavour.

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Cheese on buttered bread is a main staple of the Dutch cuisine and lunches in general. Expats in the Netherlands are often amazed at how Dutch employees prefer to lunch – each and every day – with their homemade sandwiches made with Gouda cheese. TURophilEs When it comes to buying cheese, Amsterdam locals swear that De Kaaskamer van Amsterdam or ‘the cheese room of Amsterdam’, is the best place in town. In the tiny shop (Runstraat 7) nestled in the Nine Little Streets shopping district, 300 to 400 cheeses are stacked from ceiling to floor. According to manager Tim van Laar, the majority of De Kaaskamer’s cheeses are farmstead, and produced by small dairy farmers that have a passion for cheese-making. He emphasises, that all four employees that work in the shop are turophiles, “we love cheese”. Van Laar adds: “Every time a farmer comes up with a new cheese, we are critical to taste it, because we are continuously looking for the most delicious one. That’s our challenge.”

The Dutch? Homemade sandwiches with cheese

ChEEsE sAndwiCh, plEAsE Of the 18 kilos (41 pounds) of cheese that are individually consumed in the Netherlands annually, the Dutch prefer their Gouda to be belegen, a young cheese that has ripened after 20 weeks. It has a lactic taste; it’s clean, wholesome and milky, and it’s soft texture makes it perfect for sandwiches, which is the way most Dutch eat cheese.

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fEAtUrE

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A lot of AromA Farmer cheeses are made with raw milk, and still contain bacteria that enhances the flavour. Van Laar explains: “Most factory-produced and aged cheeses have a smooth, rubbery texture with a bland taste. The flavour or farmstead cheese, on the contrary, overwhelms the palette with a creamy flavour and barnyard aroma.” They usually have a grainy and silt-like texture from the particles of lactose because the milk has not been pasteurised like factory-produced cheeses. Van Laar continues: “The taste, well, that goes without saying: the slightly aged jong belegen (10 weeks old) and belegen (20 weeks old) are rich and creamy. And the more matured extra belegen (30 weeks old) with its orange colour has a nutty flavour.” Already since the 17th century when Holland established its trade with the East Indies and Spice Islands, cheesemakers have experimented with different flavours. An all-time favourite is the Frisian Nagelkaas, a dark-orange cheese speckled with brown stars, that is matured at three years and seasoned with cloves. Leidse Komijnkaas is a lighter cheese, seasoned with cumin seeds, and has a lot of aroma.

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KAAsKop! (Cheesehead!) As people become more health-conscious and develop their palette, local cheese made from raw milk is becoming more popular. An influential force in the use of raw milk for cheese-making is the Slow Food Movement, which hopes to retrieve many traditional cheeses that have disappeared after factory-made cheeses started standardising taste buds in the early 20th century. From its selection of Slow Food cheeses, De Kaaskamer has an excellent Boeren opleg cheese, aged from 18 to 24 months. It also gets its extra flavour from being made in wooden tubs, which has been the traditional way of making cheese in Holland for centuries.

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1. You always wanted to know more about cheese, but you never dared to ask? Here is your chance, at Reypenaer, in the centre of Amsterdam. 2. This original Boeren of farmstead Edam is a Slow Food cheese, produced from raw milk.

According to rumour, Dutch farmers used traditional cheese tubs during the Napoleonic Wars (1803-1815) when they did not have other any protective headgear, again in necessity. When French soldiers saw a group of armed Dutch farmers approaching them wearing cheese tubs on their heads, they amusingly referred to them as ‘cheeseheads’. The ‘kaaskop’ was born.

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City News

© Janus van den Eijnden

City News Amsterdam Light Festival

Amsterdam’s Jordaan district

Amsterdam? Cycling city!

Just wAlk ANd wAtCh

A permANeNt exhibitioN for the City At its purest

400 kilometres of biCyCle pAths

The Amsterdam Light Festival held in the city centre is a wintry celebration of light for young and old. For 50 days during the heart of winter, Amsterdam’s historic city centre will become the beautiful backdrop for the light and water festival.

The district known as the Jordaan, previously a working class quarter, is the definitive model of Amsterdam’s successful urban development. At the beginning of the 19th century, it was a neighbourhood full of bitter poverty; a century later it is one of the most trendy and chic districts in the centre of Amsterdam.

Many world capitals try to emulate Amsterdam as one of the most bicycle-friendly cities on the planet. With a bike (and some pedal power) you can quickly discover the many gems in Amsterdam’s historic 17th century city centre. Here, pedestrians and cyclists clearly have the upper hand, and most locals swear by their bikes as being the best – and often their only – means of transport.

From 6 December to 19 January, different light sculptures, projections and installations by current (international) artists are in the limelight. The ‘Water Colors’ boat tour takes you through all of the artworks displayed along, in and above the Amstel River. The ‘Illuminade’ walking route leads you through the centre of Amsterdam. The festival brings light to the city during one of the darkest times of the year and will ‘illuminate’ the public with colourful and extraordinary works of art. It will provide a platform for both established names and hitherto unknown talent. www.amsterdamlightfestival.com

In its permanent exhibition titled ‘De Jordaancultuur’ (‘The Culture of the Jordaan’), the Jordaanmuseum shows various aspects of that stirring history. The Dutch capital’s most sung about and best documented working class quarter was a breeding ground for many riots, and at the same time, also the place where famous Dutchmen such as football player Johan Cruijff grew up. Many ex-residents still like to visit the lively Noordermarkt for a drink in one of the many animated Jordaan pubs. After a visit to the Jordaanmuseum, that’s where you might enjoy some fresh ossenworst: a local raw beef sausage which has been made at Louman butchers on the Goudbloemstraat since 1890. Of course, you can also spoil yourself at the trendy 21st century fashion boutiques and hip, modern art galleries.

You can hire a fiets (bike) almost anywhere in Amsterdam, and expert guides will show you the city’s top sights. Some companies offer special themed excursions such as historical city tours, a picnic tour, or a more tranquil day excursion in the countryside just outside of Amsterdam. If you’d rather venture out on your own, many bike rental companies as well as Tourist Information Centres sell cycling guides and maps of Amsterdam and its surroundings. With up to 400 kilometres of bicycle paths leading just about everywhere in town, it’s no wonder that Amsterdam is a true cycling city.

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OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK From 16:00 till late Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday

Live DJ

from 22:00

Discover the eatertainment experience by the creators of Buddha-Bar Paris

Call +31 (0)20 530 71 21 or visit www.littlebuddhaamsterdam.com

Little Buddha Amsterdam | Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 17 | 1017 RP Amsterdam


© Thijs Wolzak

CITY NEWS

Rembrandt highlighted

Cinema or museum?

Gateway to the canals

all hIS paINTINgS all arouNd You

TakE a Tour IN TuSChINSkI

a ‘goldEN agE’ for ThE duTCh

The exhibition ‘Re:mbrandt, All His Paintings’ has achieved the impossible: bringing all of Rembrandt’s paintings together in one location – the Magna Plaza shopping centre in downtown Amsterdam. The project features high-quality, life-sized reproductions of the painter’s entire collection. Using the latest techniques, many of the paintings have been digitally restored so that the reproductions are as close to the originals as possible.

On October 28, 1921, the most luxurious movie theatre in the Netherlands opened its doors. Visitors walked over plush carpets into a colourfully decorated fairy tale world.

Het Grachtenhuis (The Museum of Amsterdam Canals) is the ultimate starting point to the city’s canals. Six rooms allow you to discover one of the world’s best urban expansion projects: Amsterdam’s 17th century canal belt.

The exhibition displays all of Rembrandt’s paintings in chronological order and depicts the master’s great pictorial development. The supporting texts accompanying these developments help to better understand and recognise all works on display. Rembrandt van Rijn is regarded as the greatest and most important painter of the 17th century. He produced at least 325 paintings, 300 etchings and 2,000 drawings. Born in the city of Leiden in 1606, he was taught by several old masters.

The theatre was commissioned and owned by Abraham Tuschinski. His three favourite styles – Jugendstil, Amsterdam School en Art Deco – were incorporated into the building’s design by renowned artists such Willem Kromhout, Jaap Gidding and Pieter den Besten. They realised a dream theatre where visitors could forget their earthly realities. Daily tours are organised in the Netherlands’ most magical and beautiful theatre. You see the skylights in which colours slowly change, the rich paintings in the lobbies, the remarkable Moorish and Japanese room, next to the wallcoverings made from rare wood and marble

Amsterdam’s canal belt has always been renowned for its beauty, monumental architecture and picturesque character. But aside from that, the canals have also been extraordinary witnesses to the unprecedented economic, political and cultural prosperity of Amsterdam during the Golden Age (as the Dutch refer to their 17th century). The stately mansion on Herengracht 386, which houses the museum, is the place where all of these qualities come together. That is still evident, for example, in the exquisitely decorated period rooms on the bel-étage (formal floor) of Het Grachtenhuis. www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl

www.pathe.nl www.rembrandtallhispaintings.com

Protection of AmsterdAm

De Stelling van Amsterdam (The Defence Line of Amsterdam) is a former, circular defence surrounding the Dutch capital. It is 135 kilometres long, consists of 42 forts and four batteries (artillery equipped fortifications), and was built between 1880 and 1914 at a distance of 15 to 20 kilometres from Amsterdam. The defence line protected the capital against possible canon fire. In times of danger, it was possible to flood the outer area with a sophisticated sluice gate system. The structure functioned as National Keep: the last place of refuge for government and army. It is a unique monument full of defencive and water management technique. www.stellingvanamsterdam.nl

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© Rineke Dijkstra

CITY NEWS

Frans Hals, another master

Paul McCarthy? In Haarlem?

Countryside of Amsterdam

ThE paINTEr Who lIkEd To laugh

lookINg baCk IN amazEmENT

NoT WITh a horSE, buT WITh a bIkE

In March 2013, the Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem – Amsterdam’s neighbouring city – opened a new, permanent presentation: Het fenomeen Hals: Een inkijk in de fascinerende wereld van Frans Hals (‘The Hals Phenomenon: A Glimpse Into the Fascinating World of Frans Hals’). Frans Hals (ca. 1582-1666) is Haarlem’ s most renowned painter from the Dutch Golden Age (the 17th century).

As of January 1, 2014, and after 13 years of directorate, Karel Schampers will bid farewell to the Frans Hals Museum and De Hallen in Haarlem – Amsterdam’s neighbouring city after which Harlem in New York (originally ‘New Amsterdam’) was named. To mark the occasion of Schampers’ leave, the exhibition Omzien in verwondering (‘Looking back in amazement’) will be shown in De Hallen between December 7, 2013 and March 2, 2014. The exhibition shows a cross section of the acquisitions – especially in photography and video art – that were purchased during Schampers’ directorate.

A little to the south of Amsterdam’s neighbouring city Haarlem, is the Zuid-Kennemerland region. This area is home to many of the so-called buitenplaatsen: country estates with lush gardens and beautiful monumental houses that once belonged to the wealthy merchants of Amsterdam. A special bicycle route Naar buiten in Zuid-Kennemerland (‘Outdoors in Zuid-Kennemerland’) takes one through 30 such country estates.

As a masterly painter, Hals immortalised many prominent fellow citizens. But, he also like to portray less fortunate individuals: the village idiot, laughing tipplers, fishermen and children playing the flute or smoking: they all flowed forth from his paintbrush. Hals was a master at depicting liveliness and movement. An installation of 67 different sized screens presents Hals’ life story through images that not only include his masterpieces, but also documents and well-known quotations.

On display is work from (primarily) Dutch artists with a national and international reputation. Amongst others, the work of Rineke Dijkstra, Tracey Emin, Andrea Fraser, Koos Breukel, Sarah Lucas, Renzo Martens, Paul McCarthy, Julika Rudelius, Gillian Wearing and Guido van der Werve can be seen.

The route is 30 kilometres long, starts at the railway station in Haarlem and runs through the historic city centre along a few country estates, of which two once belonged to King Louis Napoléon (who ruled the Netherlands at the beginning of the 19th century). Many merchants from Amsterdam built their country estates in the Haarlem region during the Golden Age (the 17th century). A fine example is Huis te Manpad, a charming and virtually intact country estate.

www.franshalsmuseum.nl

www.dehallenhaarlem.nl

www.buitenplaatseninbeeld.nl

DELIGHTFUL VILLAGE

The Zaanse Schans is a delightful village on the banks of the river Zaan with characteristic green wooden houses, charming stylised gardens, small hump-backed bridges, tradesmen’s workshops, historic windmills and engaging little shops. This enchanting village has been lovingly established by relocating local houses, windmills, storehouses and barns to form a remarkable replica of a typical Dutch village from the 17th and 18th century. Apart from the cluster of windmills, characteristic wooden houses and little shops to visit, there are intriguing traditional Dutch crafts such as wooden shoes, pewter and cheese making. www.zaanseschans.nl

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The story of

FROMANTEEL WATCHES. Fromanteel is named after a famed Dutch clockmaker from the 17th century who used to own a modest clockmakers workshop at the Dam Square in Amsterdam. ‘The Amsterdam’ watch is crafted to commemorate the place of birth of the brand and its namesake. On the champagnesilver finished dial the exact coordinates of the former workshop are displayed. A well thought understated designed watch, refined for the office, and sporty for weekends away. Its price? Not what you’d normally expect from a Swiss timepiece. More info: www.fromanteel-watches.com Price: € 379, -

MAX IMAA L HOUDBAAR TOT: 31 DEC 2014


© Merel Waagmeester

CITY NEWS

Fashion High Tea

Skating fun as it used to be

Meditation in Concertgebouw

WhErE? AT ThE MuSEuM of BAgS ANd PurSES

MuSEuM SquArE for SoMEThINg dIffErENT

CoNCErT hoNourINg SIMEoN TEN holT

The Museum of Bags and Purses – the largest in the world with a collection of over 4,000 bags presents the Fashion high tea: an afternoon tea with cakes and fancies inspired by the most beautiful bags in the collection of the museum.

If you want to get an impression of old-Dutch skating fun as seen in 17th century paintings, you’ll certainly want to visit the Museumplein (Museum Square) in the months of December or January. Not only will you find the most well-known museums there, but also a complete ice skating rink which can be enjoyed by young and old, with or without skates.

On 5 February 2014, two compositions by the Dutch composer Simeon ten Holt can be listened to in the famous Concertgebouw in Amsterdam. They are ‘Canto Ostinato’ and ‘Palimpset’.

After a welcome with a festive glass of prosecco served with a small chicken pie and a trio of three savoury entrees, your table is transformed into a true catwalk parading Bette Midler’s cinnamon red shoes, a yellow marzipan vanilla cake Chanel 2.55, a Moschino bonbon with passion fruit filling, a light petit four with raspberry and cranberry Dior pink and a pearl macaron with Madagascar vanilla cream. Make a choice from the large selection of loose leaved tea to accompany these fancies. Price € 45 per person, including a glass of prosecco, or € 49.95 including a glass of champagne, excluding entrance fee. Please reserve a table in advance for Fashion High Tea between 10.0015.00. Vegetarian wishes can be catered for when reservation is 24 hours in advance.

The scenes you will encounter will certainly bring to mind the works of Dutch masters: young children with wooden skates (yes, quite often still the case), parents making their own rounds, and especially lots of scarves. The artificial ice skating rink also emphasises the old-Dutch atmosphere with a replica of the Magere Brug, a drawbridge situated over Amsterdam’s Amstel River. In a specially set up old-Dutch restaurant, Brasserie Winters, you can try classic dishes such as cheese fondue and stamppot (potato and vegetable mash). Warm drinks are also available! The ice skating rink is known as Ice*Amsterdam and is open until 2 February 2014.

Canto Ostinato (1976) can probably best be described as a meditation rather than music: while listening, you are really experiencing. Canto ostinato became a worldwide success. In the Concertgebouw, it will be played using four grand pianos. Palimpset (1992) is meant as chamber music, composed not so much for pianos as for stringed instruments. The composition is considered to be baroque, but has also a seductive character. It will be performed by seven string-players. Ten Holt died at the end of 2012, shortly before he would have become 90. In honour of his work, both compostions can be heard on the same evening, Wednesday 5 February 2014. www.concertgebouw.nl

www.museumofbagsandpurses.com www.iceamsterdam.nl

Perfumes of The PasT

It is not a shop, it’s a museum You could call ‘Perfumes of the Past’ a shop. But you could also call the building on Binnen Oranjestraat 11 a museum. The collection of the shop consists of classic perfumes that are now almost nowhere to be found. Regular perfumes change with the trends and as a consequence, a scent that someone may have worn their whole life is suddenly no longer available. Except if you look around thoroughly, and that is what they do at Perfumes of the Past. In this shop, supposedly ‘defunct’ perfumes from all the classical houses are available for sale, and if not they are available for ordering. www.perfumesofthepast.nl

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Amsterdam's DNA Right in the heaRt of the city centRe, you’ll find a tReasuRe chest oveRflowing with amsteRdam’s histoRy: amsteRdam museum. this museum is spRead out oveR two adjoining beautiful old buildings. heRe, you can discoveR the extRaoRdinaRy tale of this fascinating city’s past, pResent and futuRe.

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FEATURE

Text Carla van Splunteren Photography Amsterdam Museum

Previous pages The Protestant orphanage became a well-known institution during the 16th and 17th century. It attracted many international visitors to the Dutch capital. Page right top The Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie) is the world’s first multinational. Page right below The history of Amsterdam is divided over seven different periods at the Amsterdam Museum. In this part, Amsterdam revolts against the Spanish king, Philip II.

Amsterdam

is a world city yet also small and friendly. A trading city and capital city. A crossroads where residents and visitors from around the world meet. A unique place, so different from other cities. WhAT mAkEs iT so diFFEREnT? But what makes Amsterdam so different? Who, or what determines a city’s character? Amsterdam is more than just the sum of its over 800,000 inhabitants, more than its architecture and planning over the years. Understanding Amsterdam means looking back in time. There are four basic ingredients – core values, if you will – to the city’s DNA, which have formed its character over the centuries: enterprise, civic virtue, creativity and freedom of thought. These elements may not always be visible on the surface, yet they have all played a formative role in the course of a thousand years in making Amsterdam what it is today. History shows that Amsterdam is successful when all of the four elements are given free rein. These are the times that we recall as a ‘Golden Age’: the 17th century, the late 19th century and the 1970s. AmsTERdAm dnA The museum’s permanent exhibition, Amsterdam DNA, shows and tells the city’s history based on the abovementioned core values: burghers caring for the less fortunate, ships sailing to Asia and America, freedom of

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conscience, art in abundance. And yet also... oppression, slavery and war. The exhibit is divided over seven periods. ‘CiTy on PilEs’ (1000-1500) Amsterdam stands on millions of piles, long poles driven into the soil. The old piles are wooden, modern piles are concrete. Without them, the city would sink into the mire. Archaeologists have discovered that people already occupied this part of Holland in prehistoric times. The first settlement dates from around the year 1000, when the the marshy peat bog was gradually turned into habitable land. A dam is constructed where the River Amstel meets the sea. Around that dam, turned into a village square, houses are built. Until the village becomes a town – from Amsteldam to Amsterdam. Around 1300, Amsterdam receives a town charter, and in the late Middle Ages it begins to grow. It develops into a busy port, attracting commerce from far and wide. REvolT AgAinsT king And ChURCh (1550-1600) Midway through the 16th century, Amsterdam is part of the powerful Habsburg Empire, whose rule extends to Asia and America. Amsterdam renounces Catholicism and its allegiance to the Spanish King Philip II. The Protestants seize control peacefully. Even so, mobs plunder the churches, monks and nuns are forced to flee. The city emerges as the economic powerhouse of the Dutch Republic of the United Provinces. The dawn of Holland’s Golden Age.

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1. You desire a cup of coffee to help you relax in the heart of Amsterdam? That’s also possible at the Amsterdam Museum. 2. Amsterdam Museum also boasts the world’s only ‘museum street’ accessible for free: the Civic Guard Gallery (Schuttersgalerij), a covered alley between Begijnensteeg and Kalverstraat. It features a 40-metre-long runner designed by artist Barbara Broekman. This carpet showcases the 179 nationalities currently living in the capital.

CEnTRE oF ThE WoRld (1600-1700) The Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie) is the world’s first multinational, and Amsterdam’s bourse foreshadows today’s Wall Street. The city’s traders deal in everything: grain, gold, porcelain, sugar, tea, opium, even slaves. Shipping, art and science flourish. Tsar Peter the Great comes to Amsterdam to study shipbuilding and Rembrandt paints his masterpieces here. Amsterdam is a magnet for migrants, among whom many political and religious refugees. Jews are allowed to build synagogues. In the city’s liberal atmosphere, the economy flourishes.

ToWARd A ModERn CiTy (1870-1940) From an impoverished, crowded city, Amsterdam becomes a modern metropolis. New neighbourhoods emerge in rapid succession. Everyone has a right to adequate housing. Socialists lead the campaign for improvement. Modern factories appear alongside the old windmills. The economy flourishes, due not least to the colonies. Electricity is introduced, railways connect the capital with all of Europe. And in 1916, Schiphol airport opens.

The world's first multinational

libERTy, EqUAliTy, FRATERniTy (1795-1815) A time of revolution, in America, France and also the Dutch Republic. Helped by Dutch revolutionaries, French troops enter the city in 1795. A constitution is proclaimed marking the start of democracy in the Netherlands. In the new republic, Amsterdam loses its independence. Economic collapse follows. In 1813, when the French retreat, Amsterdam becomes the capital of the new Kingdom of the Netherlands.

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SECond WoRld WAR (1940-1945) In the First World War, the Netherlands remained neutral. This time, the country is occupied, for five years. German troops enter Amsterdam in May 1940. Round-ups of Jews in 1941 lead to a mass strike in Amsterdam – the only mass protest against the persecution of Jews in occupied Europe. But the Nazis continue their deportations undiminished. Three-quarters of the city’s entire population die in the war. In May 1945, Amsterdam is liberated. The Jewish quarter, once a symbol of the city’s tolerance, is gone forever.

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featUre

Capital of freedom (1945-) During the 1960s, a youth group known as Provo challenges the authorities. Not like in Paris or Berlin, with violence, but with fun and games. For a while, Amsterdam is the world’s hippie capital. Women take to the streets to demand their rights. The Wallen ‘red’ neighbourhood becomes famous and infamous. There is hardly any other city in the world with so many different nationalities – around 180 in total. They come from every corner of the world, for work, for freedom.

Protestant orphanage became a well-known institution and attracted many international visitors to the Dutch capital. It would be functioning as an orphanage until 1960. One building for the boys and one for the girls, each with its own courtyard. The one for the girls is now the Mokum Café’s terrace (weather permitting) and features a majestic 100-year-old common lime tree called Wilhelmina, after the then queen. The courtyard for the boys was completely restored in 1975 and exudes an ambiance of architectonic spaciousness and equilibrium.

Each of these periods has its own film: seven films telling the city’s thousand-year history, each with its own booklet.

All the different parts of the building underwent renovation several times over the years. All parts breathe history.

a history of its own The buildings housing the museum boast quite a history of their own. In the Middle Ages, this complex was the Saint Lucien Monastery, and as far back as 1578, when William of Orange introduced Protestantism to Amsterdam (it had been predominantly Catholic), it became a State Orphanage (Burgerweeshuis). The

www.amsterdammuseum.nl

The Amsterdam Museum would not be an Amsterdam museum without its paintings produced by Dutch masters (among them Rembrandt).

A city with 180 nationalities

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what’s in store NOT ONE, BUT THREE COLLECTIONS This season, Diamond Point brings you three new jewellery collections. There is a ultimate love collection that gives you – yes – the ‘cupid effect’. The Indian luxury jewellery collection may have some traditional influences, but could also leave you speechless. For those who want to combine love and tradition in a very special way, there is the beautiful annual Christmas ring. It is only available as a limited edition in the festive month of December. Available at the department store Bijenkorf (Dam Square) and through www.diamondpoint.nl

OUT OF THE BOX: WRINKLE-FREE SUITS Keeping your suit wrinkle-free is no easy feat. That’s why Rollor developed the suitroller. Rolling to avoid wrinkling may sound absurd, but thanks to the special ‘rollology’ technology, it works. Because there is no pressure placed on the garments, they travel with you without getting wrinkled. Price ¤ 179. At the better fashion and leather shops, as well as through www.rollor.com

A COAT TO KEEP YOU WARM (AND PRETTY) If you are looking for the finest ladies’ fashion brands, look no further than Van Ravenstein. This season the Jil Sander collection is especially striking. Take the long winter coat made out of wool and silk, and decorated with a gold stripe. It is a great example. For an impression of the entire winter collection, check the website. Van Ravenstein, Keizersgracht 359, Amsterdam www.van-ravenstein.nl

THE UNIVERSE IN A SINGLE WATCH? Christiaan van der Klaauw’s ode to the universe reveals itself in a planetarium within a watch. The watch is equipped with double barrel automatic movement, giving you the smallest heliocentric

JEWELLERY, NOT ONLY FOR WOMEN The jewellery shop BarongBarong The Gallery, located at the

planetarium in the world and presenting the orbits of Mercury,

end of the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, next to the Amsterdam

Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn. The Dutch atelier of Van

Museum, opened its door almost two years ago. Its jewellery

der Klaauw is unique in the world. It specialises in designing and

for both men and women is skillfully combined with silver,

manufacturing exclusive handmade astronomical wristwatches.

gold plated metal and gemstones in a wide variety of col-

Amsterdam Watch Company, Reestraat 3, Amsterdam

ours, models and styles. BarongBarong’s jewellery reflects

www.awco.nl

individual beauty. BarongBarong, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 383, Amsterdam www.barongbarongthegallery.com

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WHATS IN STORE

A PERSONAL PARKA WITH A SIGNATURE The popular Canadian parka manufacturer Canada Goose launches an extraordinary parka created in cooperation with the Canadian digital artist Eepmon. This one-of-a-kind piece showcases the fusion of digital technology and Canada Goose’s heritage of handmade craftsmanship. The parkas are available in a limited edition and can be found at selected stores around the world. In the Benelux at Tip de Bruin, Nieuwendijk 82-90, Amsterdam www.tipdebruin.nl

BEAUTIFULLY HANDCRAFTED AND SUPERBLY DETAILED Gem Kingdom is known for beautifully handcrafted and superbly detailed jewellery collections. The latest collection will give you a touch of paradise with its colourful wings and various gemstones set in sterling silver and bronze. All Gem Kingdom jewellery is handmade at the workshop in Amsterdam. The complete Gem Kingdom range consists of both women’s and men’s jewellery collections. Gem Kingdom flagship store, Huidenstraat 13, Amsterdam www.gemkingdom.com

JEWELLERY: FROM ITALY TO THE UK TO, INDEED, HOLLAND Green amethysts surrounded by white diamonds and smooth yellow gold – the sparkling creoles of the Italian jewellery brand now radiate their majestic glamour in Great Britain’s royal family. Recently, the Duchess of Cambridge wore her Al Coro earrings when she visited the South Pacific Solomon Islands with Prince William. For a similar impression in the Netherlands, please visit Gassan. Gassan, T 020 622 5333 www.gassan.com

SPECIAL WATCH, SPECIAL NAME Officine Panerai presents a very elegant special edition of watches, the Radiomir 10 Days GMT. The watch has automatic winding and an unusually long power reserve of ten days. The Radiomir 10 days GMT Oro Bianco has a black dial with ecru Super LumiNova dots and hands. The watch comes with a crocodile strap and a folding buckle in white gold. Only 250 pieces have been made worldwide. In the Netherlands, this masterpiece is exclusively available at Reuter Diamonds. Reuter Diamonds, Kalverstraat 165, Amsterdam T 020 623 3500

A FEAST FOR THE EYES, MAYBE TOO BEAUTIFUL? Discover the new Pleasurements lingerie shop, The House of Pleasurements, in one of Amsterdam’s finest shopping streets, the Herenstraat. In this monumental and characteristic building, you’ll even find high-heeled pumps in the dressing room. Lingerie can be a feast for the eyes and too beautiful to wear only underneath your clothes... The House of Pleasurements, Herenstraat 29, Amsterdam

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T 020 822 1110, www.pleasurements.com

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A valuable gift guide for a sparkling holiday season

Sensual seduction The year’s end is always a very special Time. while we look forward To geTTing TogeTher wiTh loved ones and enjoying cosy dinners, The sTreeTs of amsTerdam are being beauTifully decoraTed wiTh Thousands of lighTs. here are some fesTive shopping ideas To help you geT The mosT ouT of This holiday season. Text Constanze Fluhme Photography With thanks to contributors

TO SHINE 1. STaTEmENT pIEcES Odinski Jewels creates pieces that get noticed. The ‘Knockers’ series, for example, features items that are characterised by warm colours, bold designs and chunky sizes. Although daring, the jewellery – made from pure silver and gold – still manages to let the tenderness of the skin shine through.

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An example of a statement piece from this series is a ring made of silver and red gold that bears a drop-shaped rose quartz originating in Thailand. The soft colour of the stone complements the rosy tone of the gold, while granules on the sides and bottom provide a touch of elegance and sophistication. At first sight, the ring appears rough, but upon closer inspection, you will notice just how refined it truly is. € 550 - Odinski Jewels

2. DElIcaTE HaNDmaDE jEwEllEry Influenced by art, antiques and history, Dutch goldsmith Marleen Hengeveld combines old techniques with contemporary designs. This merger results in jewellery with a timeless character. The designs have elements of romance and an eye for detail. 26 I Rush on Amsterdam

Marleen’s necklaces are made to measure and can be combined with other pieces according to your personal taste. Choose an item made from 14-carat rose gold and combine it with another made from pearls or beautiful aquamarine. For the big spender, a bracelet with diamonds will be just the thing. Necklaces from € 1100 Rings from € 195 to 995 Earrings from € 525 Bracelet with diamonds € 3,500 Detailed prices upon request - AMMA Sieraden

3. HaND-crafTED DESIgNS Born in Leiden in 1978, Dutch jewellery designer Nadine Kieft is a classically trained goldsmith who established her own brand in 2007. In her pieces she combines modern and classic elements with traces of nostalgia. Nature and childhood memories are great sources of inspiration in her designs. All jewellery is hand-crafted at Nadine’s workshop in Amsterdam. She offers everything from romantic rings to original cufflinks. Prices upon request - Nadine Kieft Winter 2013 - 14


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6. STAY COSY WITH A CAPE

“Feminine without being trashy and luxurious without being loud.” This is the motto of the Dutch fashion house Belaqise. The brand, especially geared toward the young and style-conscious woman, exhibits sophistication, luxury and elegance without compromising on comfort. A beautiful example is the long evening gown. For this gown, inspiration has been drawn from the ancient Queen of Sheeba, a royal who was praised for her beauty, strength and intelligence.

Step out into the cold in style with this fashionable cape. It will keep even the most sophisticated of ladies warm and comfy. Price upon request - Belaqise

Belaqise is characterised by feminine silhouettes, composed of clean lines and interspersed with flowing parts. This combination gives everyone the freedom to wear the designs in their own unique way. Price upon request - Belaqise

5. INDISPENSABLE: THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS

7. SAY IT WITH A TWINKLE Is there something you have always wanted to say to a certain someone, but never dared? A necklace by Naked Design might be the solution. The great thing about these necklaces is that their names are Dutch. Let’s just hope the receiver doesn’t look up their meaning! Examples include ‘Schurk’ (‘Villain’), ‘Asjemenou’ (‘Good heavens!’), and many more. From € 19.95 - Naked Design

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It’s the holiday season. Who doesn’t like to watch classic movies such as Breakfast at Tiffany’s? And who wouldn’t want to look like Audrey in a perfect little black dress? Price upon request - Belaqise Winter 2013 - 14

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SHOPPING

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TO SEDUCE 8. AN INTENSE AROMA

10. A JOURNEY INTO A FLORAL WORLD

It makes the world smell that much better, arouses envy, captures the heart and fans every desire: eau de toilette. Flamboyance and opulence lie at the heart of 1 Million, a fragrance by Paco Rabanne created for the sophisticated, self-confident man. The masculine, sensual scent features a mix of wood, fruit and herbal extracts. It has ingredients such as grapefruit, mint and cinnamon. Eau de Toilette Intense Spray 50 ml, € 82.50 Eau de Toilette Intense Spray 100 ml, € 62.55 - Paco Rabanne

With Mon Jasmin Noir, Bvlgari takes us on a surprising journey through the world of the jasmine flower – the diamond of the fragrance world and a symbol of beauty and luxury. The modern, refined scent opens with notes of cedrat and lily of the valley. Its core consists of a composition of jasmine flowers, sambac and angelwing. Eau de Parfum 75 ml for € 102; 50 ml for € 82 - Bvlgari

9. FOR A NIGHT OUT

Omnia Crystalline, Mon Jasmin Noir and Jasmin Noir are now offered as elegant purse sprays. So why not add this to your Christmas gift? 25 ml for € 45 - Bvlgari

For the holidays this year, Sisley launches a limited edition of the Oriental perfume Eau du Soir. Free, sensual and daring, Eau du Soir lifts us ladies like a whirlwind. The fragrance features mandarin and sun-drenched grapefruit; delicate flower aromas such as rose and jasmine; and enchanting notes of lilac and ylang-ylang. The finale consists of amber and patchouli, which together form an unmistakably elegant scent. From € 211 - Sisley

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11. HER PREFERRED SCENT ALWAYS AT HAND

12. FOR HEROES ONLY With Invictus, Paco Rabanne examines a new dream: the fantasy of the victory, a new hero, and the champion. In Latin, the fragrance’s name means “invincible”. The fresh and sporty scent is the perfect gift to leave under the Christmas tree for your personal hero. Eau de Toilette Spray 100 ml for € 80.65 - Paco Rabanne Winter 2013 - 14


SHOPPING

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13. FRIEND WITH BENEFITS Jane Iredale was the first to supply the aesthetic industry with a line of makeup with skin care benefits. Jane Iredale’s Dream Tint tinted moisturiser gives you the perfect complexion. The multifunctional CC cream is suitable for every skin colour and has a colour correcting effect. Your skin will get a healthy glow, fine lines will fade and pores will be less visible. From € 39.80 - Jane Iredale

14. LIVE IN FULL BLOOM Spoil a lady with a few items from Jane Iredale’s mineral makeup collection: PurePressed Blush in Awake, PureMoist Lipcolour in Theresa, PureLash Lengthening Mascara in Jet Black, Eye Steppes eye shadow in a shade to complement her eyes, and the Bitty Brow Kit to make the look complete. Prices upon request - Jane Iredale

15. ORGANIC SKIN CARE FOR MEN Today’s modern man can keep his skin glowing with Weleda’s new line of organic skin care products made with natural ingredients and soothing, essential oils. Give him a complete package of natural products. Winter 2013 - 14

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The shaving cream moisturises the skin with olive oil and coconut, the hydrating cream is light and quickly absorbed, and the aftershave balsam keeps the skin fresh and has a soothing effect. Shaving cream € 12.95 Hydrating cream: € 11.43 Aftershave balsam: € 12.96 - Weleda

16. AN INSPIRATION FROM NATURE Origins has developed specific products for the complete male skin care. The gentle grooming products include a selection of the best natural ingredients and provide easy and effective results. • Save the Males™ Multi-Benefit Moisturizer, 75 ml for € 40 • Easy Slider™ Pre-Shave Oil, 50 ml for € 25 • Fire Fighter® to Take the Burn out of Shaving, 50 ml for € 22 • Skin Diver® Active Charcoal Body Wash, 200 ml for € 22.50 - Origins

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SHOPPING

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TO CUDDLE 17. SHAWLS OR CAPES FOR ANY MOOD Liesbeth and Violet of POM Amsterdam have designed shawls in all colours and sizes and for any mood or occasion. They make great, original presents and will make her feel special – after all, she’s wearing Dutch art! • Shawl Knitted Houses € 79.95 (available in various colours) • Shawl Knitted Geo Flowers € 79.95 (available in various colours) • Cape XXL worn in different ways € 159.95 (available in various colours) - POM Amsterdam

ous and rich look. The scarf is the perfect alternative to a necklace. This original accessory is available in five different colours (red, black, blue, grey, beige and cognac) and comes in a luxury gift box. Who could resist such a stylish gift? € 139 - Kop en Staart

18. THE PERFECT ALTERNATIVE TO A NECKLACE The Dutch fashion label ‘Kop en Staart’ (‘Head and Tail’) features a limited edition scarf made of soft nappa leather and suede. Using a special laser technique, a detailed pink pattern is applied to the leather giving the scarf a luxuri 30 I Rush on Amsterdam

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19. CLICQUOT IN THE SNOW The cooperation between champagne house Veuve Clicquot and ELAN’s skis and snowboards has resulted in a limited edition of the most innovative ELAN WaveFlex technical skis. To make the look complete, Veuve Clicquot has developed stylish moon boots and a trendy ski jacket. Perfect for the lady who loves the combination of champagne and snow. WaveFlex skis € 420 Boots € 44 Jacket € 99 - Veuve Clicquot

The pro id2 features an extra wide field of view and an in novative glass change system with five-base filters. The id2 is completely renewed and appears this year in classic white. Pinner goggles are available in transparent green and transparent purple. A great gift for the real ski or snowboard professional. id2 € 175 id2 pro € 195 id pure € 175 Pinner € 116 - Adidas

20. FOR DIEHARD SNOW PROS This year, Adidas eyewear has improved its technologies and brought out new colours for their skiing and snowboarding goggles. The id2 builds on its award winning success and is launching a new abstract look with the legendary red and black Adidas logo. Winter 2013 - 14

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SHOPPING

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TO OBSERVE

TO READ

21. FACE THE SUN

23. HOW TO BE ORANGE

The ultra feminine Alisha sunglasses by the trendy label Oliver Peoples features a slightly oversized frame with a subtle cat eye shape. Crafted of mixed media elements, this design has an acetate brow bar and temples with a metal eyewire and bridge. Inspired by the fashion of the 1960s and 1970s as well as by style icons like German actress Romy Schneider, this glamorous design is retro mod. The Alisha is available in polarised and non-polarised plastic lenses and comes in classic colours such as Seafoam, Soft Peach Rose, and Bone. It’s the perfect gift for any diva. € 335 - Oliver Peoples

American Dutchman Gregory Shapiro is a comedian, columnist and awkward Dutch-speaker. During 20 years, Shapiro has catalogued his clumsy assimilation into Dutch culture with Boom Chicago Comedy Theater, Comedy Central and VARA HumorTV. Now, Shapiro teams up with illustrator Floor de Goede to bring you his comedy show in book form. If you’re looking for an official guide to Dutch culture, keep looking. If you’re looking for one man’s completely subjective and utterly biased impression of Dutch culture, this one is for you. €14.90 - Greg Shapiro

22. CHAMPAGNE AND SUNGLASSES

24. CITY OF BIKES: THE STORY OF THE AMSTERDAM CYCLIST

The Elvin sunglasses by Paul Smith are inspired by late 1970s photos of John Lennon. This statement design is constructed of acetate in a modified teardrop lens shape with a straight top bar and distinctive keyhole bridge. The temple exterior includes black enamel and textured silver circle pins. “Good Day Sunshine,” is inscribed on the temple interior in Paul Smith’s handwriting. The frame is complemented by a sun-shaped plaque inlaid on the temple tip. The Elvin comes in five bold colours with CR39 polarised lenses. What’s not to love? € 244 - Paul Smith

Pete Jordan, author of the wildly popular Dishwasher: One Man’s Quest to Wash Dishes in All Fifty States is back with a memoir that tells the story of his love affair with Amsterdam, the city of bikes, all the while unfolding an unknown history of the city’s cycling, from the craze of the 1890s, through the Nazi occupation, to the bike-centric culture adored by the world today. Pete never planned to stay long in Amsterdam, just one semester. But he quickly falls in love with the city and soon his wife, Amy Joy, joins him. Together they explore every inch of their new home on two wheels, their rides a respite from the struggles that come with starting a new life in a new country. Weaving together

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personal anecdotes and details of the role that cycling has played throughout Dutch history, Pete Jordan’s In the City of Bikes: The Story of the Amsterdam Cyclist is a poignant and entertaining read. € 14.99 - Pete Jordan

Adidas Address: Leidsestraat 7 www.adidas.com

25. AMSTERDAM: A HISTORY OF THE WORLD’S MOST LIBERAL CITY

Belaqise www.belaqise.com

Amsterdam is not just any city. Despite its relatively small size, it has stood alongside its larger cousins (Paris, London, Berlin) and has influenced the modern world to a degree that few other cities have. Sweeping across the city’s colourful thousand year history, Amsterdam: A History of the World’s Most Liberal City will bring the place to life: its sights and smells; its politics and people. Concentrating on two significant periods (the late 1500s to the mid 1600s and from the Second World War to the present) Russell Shorto’s masterful biography will look at Amsterdam’s central preoccupations. A wonderfully evocative book that takes Amsterdam’s dramatic past and present and populates it with a whole host of colourful characters. This is the definitive book on this great city. € 17.50 - Russell Shorto

Bvlgari De Bijenkorf Address: Dam Square 1 www.bijenkorf.nl/bvlgari

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AMMA Sieraden Young Designers United Address: Keizersgracht 447 www.designers-fashion.com

Greg Shapiro ABC The American Book Center Address: Spui 12 www.abc.nl Jane Iredale Blush Beauty & Skin Clinic Address: Gustav Mahlerlaan 316 www.blushzuidas.nl Kop en staart www.kopenstaart.com

Nadine Kieft Young Designers United Address: Keizersgracht 447 www.designers-fashion.com Naked Design Young Designers United Address: Keizersgracht 447 www.designers-fashion.com Odinski jewels www.odinski.com Oliver Peoples CityOptiek Address: Vijzelstraat 51 www.oliverpeoples.com Origins www.douglas.nl Paco Rabanne De Bijenkorf Address: Dam Square 1 www.pacorabanne.com Paul Smith Address: P.C. Hooftstraat 136 www.paulsmith.co.uk

Pete Jordan ABC The American Book Center Address: Spui 12 www.abc.nl POM Amsterdam Raak Address: Leidsestraat 79 www.pom-amsterdam.nl Russell Shorto ABC The American Book Center Address: Spui 12 www.abc.nl Sisley De Bijenkorf Address: Dam Square 1 www.sisley-cosmetics.com Veuve Clicquot www.veuve-clicquot.com Weleda EcoPlaza Address: Haarlemmerdijk 160-164 www.weleda.com

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Looking for - ALL THE HOTSPOTS IN AMSTERDAM?

- ARTICLES ON AMSTERDAM?

- UPCOMING EVENTS IN AMSTERDAM?

- NICE SOUVENIRS FROM AMSTERDAM?

ING UD APP L INC USH tspot YR r a ho e it in CIT fo h typ g ot kin Just tb Loo ent? ill ge and w ev or d you ation s! an nform ction i e dir

Then there is only one place to be:

www.CityRush.nl THE OFFICIAL WEBSITE OF RUSH ON AMSTERDAM

CityRush CityRus Rush 34 I Rush on Amsterdam

winter Summer 20132013 - 14



FEATURE

Organs galore and much more: Organ Park

Different from what it used to be locATEd in A bEAUTiFUlly REsToREd chURch on ThE EdgE oF ThE vondElpARk, ThE oRgElpARk (‘oRgAn pARk’) is noT A pARk As wE know iT, bUT RAThER A nEw sTAgE FoR oRgAn mUsic And vARioUs oThER kinds oF mUsic – FRom clAssicAl To jAzz To minimAl. ThE oRgElpARk boAsTs FoUR lARgE oRgAns, And EvERy yEAR pUTs on somE

100 EvEnTs. Text Carla van Splunteren Photography Sonja Duimel et al.

Page right top Organs on the outside, seats in the middle: the visitor finds himself in a central position, experiencing the organs as intimate friends. (Photo: Sonja Duimel, Orgelpark) Page right below The organ of the church in all its glory, with an angel praising its virtue. (Photo: Sonja Duimel, Orgelpark)

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an international concert stage for organists, composers and other artists, the Orgelpark can truly be called unique. The Orgelpark is housed in the splendid, completely restored Parkkerk (Park Church) on Gerard Brandtstraat, between the Vondelpark and the Overtoom. Its main aim is to foster the integration of the organ into musical life by presenting it in an innovative way. Although the organ has always been there for the benefit of the building, nowadays the building itself is meant for the benefit of the organ and its music. ExTREmEly vARiEd pRogRAmmE The Orgelpark offers an extremely varied programme of activities. Facilitating study resources is one of them.

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Organising concerts, master classes and symposiums is another. Needless to say, the organ is a leitmotiv in this programme. However, the Orgelpark also features a wonderful collection of instruments reflecting music history since the 1870s: • an Erard grand piano from 1899; • a new Sauter grand piano; • a splendid Muster harmonium with celesta from the 1920s; • a small box organ built by the Elbertse Company from the Dutch town of Soest; • a wonderful barrel organ, ‘The Busy Drone’.

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FEATURE

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FEATURE

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1. You would not expect a cozy foyer such as this one in a church. (Photo: Sonja Duimel, Orgelpark) 2. The church is being used for all kinds of creative activities, often experimenting into new musical directions. (Photo: Sonja Duimel, Orgelpark) 3. The church is not only beautiful from the inside... (Photo: Joyce van der Feesten) 4. The Organ Park is located in the splendid, completely restored Parkkerk (Park Church) on Gerard Brandtstraat. (Photo: Sonja Duimel, Orgelpark)

100 yEARly AcTiviTiEs Among the roughly 100 yearly activities, a great diversity of concerts of classical, jazz and other origins may be found - as well as events involving artistic disciplines such as dance and film. Every now and then, the Orgelpark will metamorphose into a studio for young talent from Dutch and international music schools, which often is also the time for the commissioning of compositions (i.e., requesting musicians to write a specific piece). In short, the Orgelpark is always brimming over with energy and enthusiasm.

First of all, the formerly completely white interior now features 40 separate colours as well as festive lighting which provides a cheerful ambience. The second, spectacular element of change lies in the huge, previously stained glass windows. After the glass had been removed, they were sound proofed, and are now covered with thematically defined sheet images and colours.

A church turned into a theatre

FRom chURch To ThEATRE In 2006, architect Bas van Hille transformed the church – built in 1918 by architect E.A.C. Roest – into a theatre. In terms of spatial dimensions the church hall was left intact, but the current concert hall appears very differently from what it used to look like, mainly because of two major changes.

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As a result, the existing old organ and the newly added organs create a magnificent and pleasing spatial effect.

In addition, the church has been provided with heating and ventilation systems that are almost invisible and have been worked into the edge and the bottom half of the balcony and under the new steps of the balcony. ART DEco AmbiEncE The Orgelpark’s goal is to appeal to a large and varied public, from young to old, and from ‘ordinary’ music

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FEATURE

18 DEcEmbER Lebanese christmas Accompanied by keyboard player Rembrandt Frerichs, vocalist Rima Khcheich performs spiritual songs. Khcheich is a true celebrity in her country of birth Lebanon and a swiftly rising star in Europe. 22 DEcEmbER A ceremony of carols The Cappella Isalana choir, conducted by Klaas Stok, performs Britten’s Ceremony, followed by works for choir and organ and harp. 17 JAnUARy master Organist Thomas Trotter Thanks to his accurate and virtuoso style, the British organ player Thomas Trotter has an enormous following. The Birmingham city organist is a guest at the Orgelpark for the third consecutive year.

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lovers to professionals. Everything possible is done to make people feel at home in the beautiful Art Deco ambience, the intimate concert hall and the cozy foyer. You are warmly welcomed by the staff and provided with all the information you may desire. A great place for an unusual evening out! For the programme this winter, please see the list on the right. www.orgelpark.nl info@orgelpark.nl

18 JAnUARy Organ & Strings Compositions for solo organ from the French Romantic repertoire are alternated with music for organ or piano and strings. On the programme, among others, the Quatuor by Charles-Marie Widor and the sonata for cello en piano by Leon Boëllmann. 24, 25, 26 JAnUARy Planet Festival Many a composer has found other planets than earth a source of inspiration. During a weekend full of ‘extraterrestial’ music you can hear classics such as Tierkreis by Karl-Heinz Stockhausen, an arrangement of The Planets by Gustav Holst, and more recent works for organ and electronics. 29 JAnUARy choir, Harmonium and Piano Programme: Max Reger’s Der Einsiedler and the Requiem in an arrangement for choir, harmonium and piano. The Canadian composer Trevor Grahl wrote a new composition for the same instruments to lyrics by Micha Hamel. 31 JAnUARy Organ & chamber orchestra On the programme the Kammermusik by Hindemith as well as compositions by his contemporaries Jarnach, Krenek en Höller.

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8 AnD 9 FEbRUARy Around Jolivet Two concerts with works by the French composer André Jolivet (1905-1974) and two of his pupils, Jean Lambrechts (1936) and Philip Hersant. A great deal of attention is paid to Jolet’s vocal works, eminently performed by Studium Chorale from Maastricht. 14 FEbRUARy master Organist bernard Foccrouille The Belgian director of the Festival d’Aix-enProvence is teacher, composer and organist as well. For this programme he plays on the three most important organs of the Orgelpark. 22 FEbRUARy Organ, Percussion and Saxophone Premiere Performance Virtually all the works were written or arranged especially for this programme. In view of the unusual combination of instruments, improvisation plays an important role here. 1 AnD 2 mARcH Organs & Electronics On Saturday evening, you can listen to works written especially for the Orgelpark in the last few years. Sunday afternoon is devoted to compositions by the Dutch composer Ton Bruynèl (1934-1998), pioneer in the Netherlands of electronic music. 5 mARcH Vocal Ensemble & Organ On the programme works for male-voice choir and organ by the Amsterdam composers Bertelsman (1782-1854) and De Bree (1801-1854) from the 1835-1838 period. Also a composition by Mendelssohn (1807-1847) from the same period and a double fugue by Bastiaans (1812-1875). 8 mARcH Organ, Flute and Live Painting Original music for flute and organ is scarce. Chanon and Magalhaes play compositions by old and new composers: Olivier Messiaen (1908-1992), Guy Olivier Ferla (1964), Georg Friedrich Händel (1685-1759), Pierre Farago (1969), Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750), and Hugues Dufourt (1943). During the performance artist Béna will create paintings on silk.

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FEATURE

It’s celebration time at the Amsterdam Fashion Week

Ten years style & fun in JAnUARy 2014 AmsTERDAm FAshion WEEk cElEbRATEs iTs 10Th AnnivERsARy WiTh ThE 20Th EDiTion. in 2011 ThE oRgAnisATion WAs REbRAnDED. WAs This bEcAUsE AmsTERDAm bEcAmE A FAshion cApiTAl? Text Constanze Fluhme Photography Photography Fashion Week

Page right Dutch fashion design is daring, risky and a bit edgy. A case in point is the show of ‘MaryMe Jimmy Paul’. Photo: Photo Team Stigter.

The

rebranding of Amsterdam International Fashion Week into Amsterdam Fashion Week resulted in a name change, a different company logo and a somewhat different philosophy. Amsterdam Fashion Week became a platform for both the international fashion industry and local consumers. Amsterdam Fashion Week has indeed become more than just a bi-annual event (in January and July) for fashion professionals. By expanding to four programmes (Catwalk Programme, Downtown Programme, Business Programme and Fashion LAB), AFW reaches a cross-section of the industry, stimulates and supports talent and growth, explores innovation, but also... involves the public. For the public, the Downtown Programme might turn out to be a perfect fit. DUTch DEsign Furthermore, Amsterdam is becoming increasingly popular for people who want to buy the latest in fashion. Take ‘SPRMRKT’, located on Rozengracht in Amsterdam. Here, you can find a lot of fashion, a special mix of designer furniture, art books and all kinds of changing expositions. Both well-established and vintage labels can be found here; among them Wendy + Jim, Martin Margiela, Marjan Pejoski, Comme des Garçons, Rick Owens and Acne Jeans. Also, on a slightly different note, ‘Droog’ on Staalstraat 7B could and should be mentioned. Droog creates cuttingedge products and organises projects and events around the world in collaboration with designers, clients and partners. Its founder, Renny Ramakers, is an important person

40 I Rush on Amsterdam

in design. She is definitely someone who has put the term ‘Dutch design’ on the map. All in all, there is enough reason to speak with Christine van den Bent of Amsterdam Fashion Week. We interviewed her about the upcoming anniversary and about Amsterdam’s role as a fashion city.

Q: For the 20th edition of AFW, who and what can we expect on the catwalks? Do you expect the major international fashion labels (for example, Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Gucci, Tom Ford, Michael Kors, etc.) to show their new collections at AFW? A: “The 20th edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week will be a very special one. We are celebrating our 10-year anniversary! You can expect some familiar designers to return to the catwalks of Amsterdam Fashion Week. Of course, there will also be some surprising designers and new names showing their collections, yet our focus is and always will be to present Dutch fashion talent. Unfortunately, we can’t say anything specific about the programme yet.”

Q: How will a visitor to Amsterdam be able to participate in the ‘fashion circus’? Is it possible to visit catwalk shows? And what will be happening in downtown Amsterdam? A: “A limited number of tickets are available for the catwalk shows through the website of Amsterdam Fashion Week. Generally speaking, it is not possible for consumers to visit the catwalk shows of Amsterdam Fashion Week. The very exclusive tickets are only for sale at ‘The Front Row Club’, the online community of the Amsterdam Fashion Week (www.amsterdamfashionweek.com/commu-

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1

1. The Global Language Monitor describes ‘Amsterdam fashion capital’ as being creative, original and a bit ‘outré’, that is to say: ‘outspoken’ or ‘unconventional’. (Shown here is ‘Nieuw Jurk’, Dutch design) 2. Christine van den Bent of Amsterdam Fashion Week: “What defines us is creativity and originality. We show this by also being a platform for innovation and talent. We are not shy in challenging current fashion systems or mannerisms.” (Shown here is ‘Individuals by AMFI’, Dutch design) 3. An outdoor catwalk show during the last edition of the Amsterdam Fashion Week. Photo: Photo Team Stigter.

2

nity). Anyone can become a member of the Front Row Club by signing up for free. As is the case with the Catwalk Programme, we can’t say anything specific about the Downtown Programme just yet.”

Q: What is typical ‘Amsterdam Style’? We see people in the city mainly on bikes, and the streets are not exactly high heel friendly? A: “The typical ‘Amsterdam Style’ could be described as a mishmash of different styles. From elegant to quirky, and from sober to overstyled. Although we cycle a lot and our streets are rather bumpy, the fashion-conscious people of Amsterdam choose to look stylish anyway.”

3

A: “If you look for a general definition of ‘fashion week’, you will find that fashion weeks are places with a broad mix of business, financial, entertainment and cultural activities, international acknowledgement and unique and strong identities. It is difficult to compare our relatively small organisation and fashion week to our bigger sisters. Paris and Milan are in fact big international fashion platforms. Their strength lies in their history, and this is what makes them powerful and international. One of our strengths is that we aren’t tied to a fixed format laid down by heritage. We facilitate one big venue where all catwalk shows are held. We offer a platform for strong and unique identities. The Global Language Monitor describes ‘Amsterdam fashion capital’ as being creative, original and a bit ‘outré’ (which could be translated as ‘outspoken’ or ‘unconventional’, ed.). What defines us is creativity and originality. We show this by also being a platform for innovation and talent. We are not shy in challenging current fashion systems or mannerisms.”

From elegant to quirky

Q: When compared to other famous international fashion weeks, such as Milan, London, Paris and New York, Amsterdam has often been seen as an outsider. How would you describe its current position in respect to its big sisters?

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FEATURE

Q: How would you describe Dutch design and how does it distinguish itself from design from other European countries? A: “As already mentioned, Amsterdam as a fashion capital can be characterised as creative, original and a bit outré. Furthermore, there is an emphasis on diversity, sustainability and innovation. Where other European countries may be reserved, Dutch fashion design is daring, risky and a bit edgy. Examples seen at the last edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week are the shows of ‘MaryMe Jimmy Paul’, ‘Individuals by AMFI’ and ‘Nieuw Jurk’.”

Q: AFW is trying to help young talent find their way in the fashion business. Can you explain a bit about that programme? A: “During the 19th edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week, the new talent and innovation platform ‘Fashion LAB’ was officially launched. In Fashion LAB, promising young designers with small collections are given the opportunity to make use of all the facilities needed to professionally present themselves to the international fashion world.

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Moreover, an ongoing programme of workshops, lectures and coaching prepares the designers for their definitive breakthrough, supporting them on business related topics. With Fashion LAB, Amsterdam Fashion Week also makes an appeal to the fashion industry to support its talents and to contribute to the shared innovation platform.”

Q: If you look at the huge amounts of clothes, which are sometimes produced under appalling conditions, how do you see the future of fashion in terms of sustainability?

By expanding to four programmes (Catwalk Programme, Downtown Programme, Business Programme and Fashion LAB), AFW reaches a cross-section of the industry. AFW stimulates and supports talent and growth, explores innovation, but also... involves the public.

A: “The future holds many challenges for the global fashion industry. Climate change, population growth and shortages of key resources are already affecting the industry. They will bring profound changes over the next years. By sharing our knowledge and network and discussing topics such as sustainability in Fashion LAB, we aim to provide designers with the expertise and tools necessary to make responsible choices. We expect fashion designers to incorporate more and more sustainable practises into modern clothing.” www.amsterdamfashionweek.com

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46 I Rush on Amsterdam

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Artis as a ‘people’s zoo’ “EvEry timE that i’vE bEEn to artis, i undErstand pEoplE so much bEttEr!” that’s how dutch poEt J.h. lEopold summEd up his fEElings for pEoplE and animals in 1922. and EvEn today, in 2013, natura artis magistra (as thE amstErdam Zoo is officially callEd) considErs itsElf as a ‘pEoplE’s Zoo’.

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FEATURE

Text Henry Salman Photography Artis Royal Zoo, Henry Salman

Previous pages This black jaguar stares calmly at its observers. Just like all the other animals at Artis, it appears completely at ease. © Artis Patrick Brouwer Page right The elephants, jaguars, camels and... the giraffes: they’re all there. © Artis Ronald van Weeren

The

introduction on the previous page is, admittedly, a rather abstract introduction to a story that should entice the city’s visitors to discover the zoo. No worries, though. The elephants, jaguars and camels are all there. But perhaps more interesting is the knowledge that Artis is so much more than just your average zoo. That is apparent, for example, in the many sculpted or cast bronze animal figures that one encounters everywhere. Elegant Buddhas attest to the foreign (especially Japanese) influences in the city park’s design. In short, Artis is a unique and historic monument located amidst city surroundings. It is a city park, a zoo, an estate, and indeed, above all... a people’s zoo. It is only logical that Artis, in close cooperation with the University of Amsterdam, employs the help of a scientist. The current mission of Artis – to bring art, science and nature together – demands a differentiated approach when it comes to the organisation of a modern zoo. Rush on Amsterdam asked professor Erik de Jong to share his story.

48 I Rush on Amsterdam

AdoRnEd wiTh gold lEAF That story begins in the early 19th century. At the time, well-to-do citizens slowly but surely started to make the gardens of the recreational area known as Plantage (located on the eastern outskirts of Amsterdam’s canal belt) their own. As far back as the 17th century, there was already mention of a Protestant belief which regarded human beings (especially those from Amsterdam...) as guardians of godly creations. An idea that was demonstrated with plenty of ornamentation, as can still be seen in the zoo’s gold leafed entrance. What better way for people to invest their wealth than in the collection and study of God’s creations? That is the reason why they called their initiative Natura Artis Magistra – nature was considered to be the educator of art and science. Artis became the genuine and splendid result of this philosophy. how did ThE AnimAls gET ThERE? How did all those animals manage to find this recreational area? Starting in the 17th century, the Netherlands was an important – if not the most important – trading centre in the world. From Amsterdam, everything was traded,

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FEATURE

1

1. A playful, young elephant: Mumba can surely amuse itself! © Artis Edwin Butter 2. The butterfly garden is open all year. © Artis Ronald van Weeren

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including the marble used in palaces and castles. To a large extent, this marble remained in the Netherlands, or better said, in Amsterdam. An example of this would be the Royal Palace on Dam Square. Amsterdam’s unprecedented, world-wide mercantile spirit brought many people to the Dutch capital during the 17th century – and with them came many animals. Residents of Amsterdam took advantage of this opportunity and filled the gardens of the recreational area with all kinds of foreign and exotic animals.

liFE in A nATURAl EnviRonmEnT Westerman’s passion is still noticeable in Artis’s modern ideology: the creation of an utmost natural habitat. There is a butterfly garden and a reptile dwelling. The park itself is abundantly planted with beautiful trees and other greenery. This year, as a token of gratitude toward its many visitors and, in celebration of its 175th anniversary, the park is decorated with many flowers and other colourful flora. PolAR bEARs ARE gonE Because the city zoo, which attracts approximately 1.25 million visitors per year, is so limited in space, making wise choices is imperative. The aim for high quality combined with the institute’s mission – to promote a love and regard for nature – meant that some of the animals had to go. Polar bears, for example, which require a natural habitat of polar ice, have disappeared from the zoo.

Some animals had to go

ARTis FoUndEd by book dEAlER The zoological garden was officially established in 1838 when book dealer Gerard Westerman founded the association known as Artis Magistra. His partiality for natural history manifested itself in an extensive collection of books on this subject. Westerman was also a bird enthusiast and passionate collector of exotic (taxidermied) animals. In effect, all of his interests and passions are still evident in the present-day (and oldest) city park of Amsterdam.

50 I Rush on Amsterdam

Why A PEoPlE’s zoo? Why is Artis so emphatically referred to as a ‘people’s zoo’? Professor Erik de Jong’s answer is just as logical as it is ap-

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feAture

pealing: “In accordance with our mission, it is essential that people are also given a central role. Our park, with its diversity of animals, exhibits the entire scope of nature’s forms and beauty. Because of this, those who loves nature – and that includes almost everyone who comes to Artis – can fully enjoy what they like, or consider interesting or peculiar. When it comes to achieving that goal, our animals are the incentive for the most varied ways of experiencing nature. Artis is a popular park, with playgrounds for even the youngest of visitors. But, Artis will never become an attraction park. We place a lot of emphasis on style and class.” AlternAtive museum neighbourhood Foreign visitors are primarily preoccupied with the entertainment and hustle and bustle that often takes place in the heart of Amsterdam. Yet the neighbourhood that surrounds Artis, and is situated in the eastern part of the city centre, is just as attractive. With places such as the Hermitage, the Tropenmuseum (Tropics Museum) , the Hollandsche Schouwburg (Dutch Theater), the Verzetsmuseum (Dutch Resistance Museum) and the Hortus Botanicus (Botanical Garden), this area also boasts plenty of histori-

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cal flair. It is “out-of-the-ordinary”, as the professor calls his neighbourhood: less busy, even though it has quite a few nice cafés. Consequently, it is a challenge to get to know and experience the city in a different, less hectic, way.

1. Plenty of gold leaf decorates the entrance to Artis – this to symbolise man as the caretaker of God’s creations. © Henry Salman

PArk for All seAsons In 2013, it is exactly 175 years since Artis came into existence. And should you think that old things wear out and get rusty, than Artis will prove the opposite. Amsterdam’s zoological garden is blossoming like never before. All of the animals enjoy the attention from the visitors, and appear calm and content. The more than 80,000 donors who support Artis (both materially and financially) visit regularly and enjoy themselves every time anew. In all seasons, the park has an undeniable beauty – one which visitors experience in their own unique ways. www.artis.nl

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BOOK

A History of the World’s Most Liberal City

Bastion of free thinkers mOst peOple chucKle anD grin when they hear sOmeOne is travelling tO amsterDam. thrOughOut the centuries the city has nOt Been particularly KnOwn fOr its artists, architects, anD philOsOphers, But fOr its reD light District anD cOffee shOps (that in essence, DO nOt serve cOffee, But sell weeD). Text Benjamin Roberts Photography Publisher

Amsterdam

is a liberal city. It’s the city where everything goes, and that since the 17th century. That was the reason why writer and New York Times journalist Russell Shorto decided to reveal how the city got that way in his recently published book, Amsterdam: A History of the World's Most Liberal City. Shorto is fascinated with the city’s history as a liberal bastion – a reputation it has held since the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century. Free thinkers such as the Portuguese philosopher Spinoza and the English thinker Locke lived in Amsterdam in the 17th century. Also well-known is the Provo movement (a sort of hippie movement) and the ‘Sleep in’ of John Lennon and Yoko Ono in the Hilton Hotel in the 1960s. Different things Shorto explains that liberalism means different things to different people. To Europeans, liberalism means politically conservative, glorifying the power of the market economy, and a minimum of state regulation, if at all. To Americans, the term means something quite different. It implies being left-wing on the political spectrum, in favour of government regulation in economic and social issues, accompanied with a progressive lifestyle. For the history of Amsterdam, both definitions of liberalism apply, depending on what era in history. For example, from its early beginnings in the Middle Ages (the city gained city rights in 1275) to the period of the

52 I Rush on Amsterdam

Golden Age in the 17th century, the city was liberal in the European definition of the word. Because of the city’s free trade and capitalism without state intervention, the city prospered economically, socially and culturally. The economic miracle was the first in modern times and had a profound impact on western society, producing many phenomena including international banking, stock markets and multinational companies, which still dominate our economy today. nO mOnarchy Shorto argues that liberalism in the 17th century was able to permeate every aspect of Dutch society because the country was not governed by a monarchy, as most countries in Europe were at that time. Amsterdam was ruled by an oligarch, a group of wealthy magistrates that worked themselves up the economic and social ladder through trade. These magistrates operated in the realm of idealism and pragmatism. City fathers knew all too well that they could not force their laws and regulations on the population if they were not pragmatic. For example, Roman Catholics were officially not allowed to practice their religion, but it was gedogen, the Dutch term for stating it is illegal but not enforced if nobody is harmed. The European liberalism of the economy brought the American definition of liberalism into play. With the steaming economy, the city attracted progressive philosophers and scientists from all over Europe. The city

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BOOK

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drew free thinkers such as the English philosopher John Locke who was able to have his books published and distributed throughout Europe. The street that stretches from Amsterdam’s Central Station to Dam Square and is lined with fast-food stands, seedy bars and souvenir shops today, was the ‘Fleet Street’ of Europe in the 17th century, that is to say: the publishing centre of the world (Fleet Street being a well-known street in London where journalists work and newspapers are published). BOOKs withOut censOrship Books were printed and carried across the Damrak (the street ending at Dam Square) where they were loaded on ships and dispersed to all corners of the globe. There was little chance for censorship with the close proximity between publishing houses and distribution network. Since the Golden Age, Amsterdam has continued to operate in the realm between ideal and good old pragmatism. In the 1960s, the city drew young people from all over the world and became one of the epicentres of youth counter-culture. One of the reasons was that Am-

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sterdam had a progressive policy on drug use. Again, 'gedogen' was applied. Drug use is officially illegal, but if used (and possessed) in small quantities, it is tolerated. In 2001, Amsterdam was again centre stage as being a bastion of progressive thinking when the Netherlands was the first country in the world to recognise same-sex marriage. With an eye toward the future, Shorto ponders how the city will develop, especially under the influence of further European regulation, combined with the current economic and social crisis: To be liberal, or not to be liberal? That is the question. Russell Shorto, Amsterdam. A History of the World’s Most Liberal City (New York: Doubleday, 2013), ISBN: 9781408703489, € 17.50 at the American Book Center (Spui 12) Benjamin Roberts is the author of ‘Sex and Drugs before Rock ‘n’ Roll – Youth Culture and Masculinity during Holland’s Golden Age’, Amsterdam University Press, 2012.

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1.Cornelis Anthoniszoon’s bird’s eye view of Amsterdam in 1538. Where now you will find a busy train hub, back then only sailing ships could be found. 2. Dam Square in 1656 with the new city hall being built on the left. The building would later be considered by the city residents to the be ‘eighth wonder of the world’ because of its size, extravagance, and the power the city wielded in international trade and finance. In the distance to the right, you notice some ships. These ships docked at the Damrak, then a waterway and now the busiest street in Amsterdam. 3. Cover of ‘Amsterdam: A History of the World’s Most Liberal City’ by Russell Shorto, a journalist of The New York Times.

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Treasure trove? Amsterdam’s City Archive!

Although it’s one of the lesser-known AttrActions of AmsterdAm, it ActuAlly hAs A lot to offer visitors: de BAzel. in Addition to the Building’s function As home to the city’s

40 kilometres of Archives, it is Also A museum BoAsting A numBer of very interesting exhiBitions.

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FEATURE

Text Robin Glendenning Photography Stadsarchief Amsterdam

Previous pages Don’t be fooled by the modest entrance... © Stadsarchief Amsterdam Page right top Some Amsterdamers still affectionately call ‘De Bazel’ a ‘bacon cake’ because of its streaky façade made up of alternating layers of brick and granite. © Stadsarchief Amsterdam Page right below The big safe doors of this overwhelming vault give entrance to the treasure chambers... © Stadsarchief Amsterdam.

Stretching

some 100 metres between the canals Herengracht and Keizersgracht, the building on Vijzelstraat number 32 is arguably Amsterdam’s grandest early 20th century edifice. It was completed in 1926 and is called De Bazel, after its architect, Karel de Bazel (1869-1923). Unfortunately, the great man never saw the finished result of his toils. Had it been 100 metres tall, it wouldn’t have looked out of place in New York.

It was commissioned by the Nederlandse Handelsmaatschappij (NHM: The Netherlands Trading Society), a company set up on the initiative of King Willem I in answer to the declining economy of the 19th century. The company is one of the primary ancestors of the bank we all know today as ABN AMRO. DivinE UniTy De Bazel certainly reflects the success of the Nederlandse Handelsmaatschappij. As you approach it on foot, it is almost too big for the street it is on. But it is beautiful and some Amsterdamers still affectionately call it spekkoek (literally, ‘bacon cake’, an Indonesian delicacy for the sweettoothed) because of its streaky façade made up of alternating layers of brick and granite. Karel de Bazel derived inspiration for the building from his strong theosophical convictions. Theosophy maintains that knowledge of God may be achieved through spiritual ecstasy, direct intuition, or special individual relations. In his design, both inside and outside, De Bazel attempted to create a space that reflected divine unity, and in so doing, would be eminently agreeable to those who worked inside. Wander in, and you’ll see what he meant. AggREssivE viRUs Don’t be fooled by the modest entrance to the building: inside there is so much to see. Before you go upstairs, be sure to take a look at the small ‘director’s lift’ tucked away in the corner. It was strictly for the top brass. When an aggressive virus felled the entire board of directors and a single

56 I Rush on Amsterdam

ordinary employee of (what was then) the bank, an investigation was launched and the lift was discovered to be the source of infection. This led to the conclusion that the ordinary employee had been illicitly using the lift. He was promptly fired – as though becoming seriously ill hadn’t been punishment enough. QUiTE spEciAl Once inside, you can see how De Bazel envisioned divine unity. The centre of the building is a huge atrium, allowing sunlight to shine straight in and creating a wonderfully light, open atmosphere. It’s like being outside. Looking up, you see the galleries on each of the five floors, onto which all of the offices open. This openness, perfectly commonplace in office buildings today, must have been quite special for the staff of yesteryear. cURioUs cAbinETs The ground floor is essentially one large, open space, half of which is given over to researchers consulting the almost 40 kilometres of archives housed in the building. The other half is used as exhibition space, a café and a shop. You are treated to excerpts from the vast archives wherever you look. Documents from the past, themed usually to reflect some topical issue in the present. Literal documents made of ink, parchment and wax seals, but figurative documents, too: archaeological finds of pottery and iron, photographs, paintings, curious cabinets... Everything you see teaches you something, however small and seemingly insignificant, about the history of Amsterdam. lARgEsT vAUlT Please make your way to the southern end of the ground floor, for this is the real business end for the casual visitor with a thirst for things wonderfully unique. Right at the far end is the gallery for the main temporary exhibition and the only part of the building for which an admission fee is charged. Just before you get there, however, a modern staircase takes you down to the real treasure trove: the old safe. Its doors and walls are massively thick. Until the

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FEATURE

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2

1. In the King’s Chamber, the board of directors of The Netherlands Trading Society came together. © Stadsarchief Amsterdam/Jan van Dijk 2. The main hall alone is impressive. Entering the building is a humbling experience somehow... © Stadsarchief Amsterdam/Jan van Dijk 3. Almost everything you would like to know about Amsterdam can be found in the City Archives. © Stadsarchief Amsterdam

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Dutch Central Bank was built a few hundred metres away, it was probably the largest vault in the Netherlands.

the city’s most important documents, such as those chronicling its city rights and its authority to charge excise duties.

During the 60s and 70s, when the building was still a bank, the walls of the vault were plastered and whitewashed. The staircase leading down to the second level below ground (yes, this is a two-floor vault) had been removed. In the centre, taking up almost the entire space, weren’t coins and gold, but the bank’s computer!

Around the outside, where the safety deposit boxes for companies and individuals used to be, are numerous ‘display cabinets’. These cabinets celebrate the best of what made Amsterdam great over the years. These ‘treasures of Amsterdam’ have been arranged into 12 themes, each one represented by a prominent citizen of the city. Freddy Heineken, for instance, represents the mercantile spirit of the people; Theo van Gogh represents the city’s freedom of speech; and Willy Alberti represents the levenslied (life song).

Thankfully, the computer is gone and the vault has been restored to its former glory. Sections of the plasterwork were carefully removed to expose the original Art Deco paintwork beneath. On the basis of what they found, they completely recreated De Bazel’s vision.

Quite unlike anything else

OldEsT ARchivE Amsterdam’s oldest archive is located in the centre of the vault. It is a large wooden ‘cupboard’ with three locks, and was originally kept in the Oude Kerk (Old Church), Amsterdam’s oldest building. This ‘cupboard’ was used to store

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TRUE plEAsURE It is a true pleasure to admire and become acquainted with the paintings, photographs and other objects on display at the City Archives. Not to mention the building itself, with its original, early 20th century decorations, parquet floors and furniture. So if you have an hour or so to spare during your stay in Amsterdam, be sure to check it out. It is magnificent and quite unlike anything else you’ve seen before.

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FeaTUre

Where and When Stadsarchief Amsterdam Vijzelstraat 32 1017 HL Amsterdam Opening hours: Tue - Fri: 10.00 - 17.00 Weekends: 12.00 - 17.00 For further information, please call 020 - 25 11 511 (Mon - Fri between 09.00 and 17.00) Admission to the building and the exhibits is free. A modest admission fee is charged for access to the main temporary exhibition only.

dam (children, care, welfare, life and death); Art and Culture; Money and Trade; Religion.

‘De Bazel’ way back in 1926. © Stadsarchief Amsterdam

The City Archives also offers educational tours for all ages (ranging from primary school to university) designed to acquaint students with archives and collections. On request, The City Archives can also focus on a single theme or subject of your choice. It is also possible to organise tutorials at the City Archives. Advance booking is essential, please call: 020 - 25 11 619 or send an e-mail: groepsrondleidingen@stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

For groups, it is possible to book a guided tour on the date of your choosing during the City Archives’ opening hours. You can opt for a guided tour (in English): - around the De Bazel building and the City Archives, or - a themed tour in the Treasury. The themes are: Power in Amsterdam; (politics, justice, crime); Young and Old in Amster-

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Olympisch Stadion 35 T 020 – 570 84 00 www.theoysterclub.nl info@theoysterclub.nl

Akersluis 8 T. 020 - 669 09 33 www.syriana.nl info@syriana.nl

The Oyster Club is a stylish restaurant and bar of international allure, situated in one of Amsterdams landmarks, the monumental Olympic Stadium, built for the Olympic games of 1928. The Oyster Club will provide you with a spectacular and tastefully decorated venue for all your lunches, dinners and/or drinks whilst boasting an amazing view of the inside of the stadium. On the second floor there is a beautiful separate room, very suitable for private dining but also for meetings, seminars and presentations. The menu offers a wide variety of high-end fresh fish- and meat-dishes and of course our specialty: Oysters! There is a choice of 12 types of oysters and various preparations and toppings. Our Asian Sushi Chefs will make you the most exclusive sushi dishes that already have obtained a establised reputation. But also the dry-aged Angus Beef is of unprecedented quality. At the cocktail bar the bartenders will mix amazing cocktails for you. On Thursday till Sunday there is a DJ every evening and on occasion there is swinging live music by various artists with a mix of soul, jazz and pop. The Oyster club features a large parking underneath the stadium as well as a valet parking service from 6pm. See you at the Oyster Club. We would be delighted to welcome you.

Syriana, a restaurant with a Syrian-Lebanese kitchen, a cuisine that is relatively unknown to restaurant visitors and continues to amaze people. The tastes are a class apart, you could say we are dealing with a new culinary taste maker. People like the kitchen because it has many appetizer courses, called ‘mazas’ - very similar to the Spanish tapas. In the restaurant you can also enjoy the unique Arab high-tea with lots of Syrian and Lebanese sweets & treats. Lunch, brunch and cocktails are being served during the day and at night a delightful dinner with Arab tapas-dishes. The Lounge with the 1001 night decor on the first floor or the Eden room at the ground floor can be booked for parties, meetings, large dinners and business events. Suggestions can be made for menu, entertainment and theme’s. New at Syriana is the “All you can eat concept”- you can eat 6 rounds and order 4 dishes per round from the in total 56 dishes with a choice from vegetarian, meat- or fishmaza’s. So you can explore the Libanese kitchen in a fun way. Price : € 19,50 during weekdays and € 22,50 on Friday and Saturday because of the live music and performance of a Belly dancer.For after dinner cocktails & shiska please visit the Club Lounge Syriana Deluxe.

MO – TH 10.00 – 01.00 FR 10.00 – 02.00 SAT 16.00 - 02.00 SUN 12.00 – 01.00 KITCHEN OPEN 12.00 – 23.00 VALET PARKING FROM 18.00 OPEN 362 DAYS A YEAR WIFI AVAILABLE

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KITCHEN OPEN DAILY FROM 12:00 - 22:00 OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR SEE YOU AT SYRIANA!

LONg pURA RESTAURANT

Rozengracht 46-48 T. 020-623 89 50 info@restaurant-longpura.com www.restaurant-longpura.com Selamat Datang, welcome ! Restaurant Long Pura ‘’Eternal Temple’’ is located in a typical monumental building in the centre of Amsterdam, nearby the Western Church in the cosy Jordaan area. Here hides a beautiful and colourful Indonesian

temple. Upon entering you will be pleasantly surprised by the contemporary, stylish and warm interior with Balinese elements. Our Chef and his team prepare tastes and fragrances to delight all your senses. You will be greeted with the “Selemat Datang” welcome by our traditional Indonesian dressed staff. Enjoy the abundance of our famous rice tables or varied à la carte menu. To stimulate your dining experience, all our food is prepared using fresh ingredients. Also very suitable for family -and business dinners. KITCHEN OPEN MON - SAT 18:00 AND 23:00 SUN 17:00 THROUGH 23:00 OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR WIFI AVAILABLE

BRIdgES INSpIREd By RON BLAAUw RESTAURANT

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 T. 020 - 555 35 60 info@bridgesrestaurant.nl www.bridgesrestaurant.nl At Bridges inspired by Ron Blaauw it’s all about fish. Always the best fish and only when in season. Executive chef Joris Bijdendijk presents a wide variety of fresh fish and seafood, both in our restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Oysters, lobster sandwiches, delicate fish tartar and ocean fresh fish, everything prepared while you watch. You can eat in the restaurant as well as dine in the exclusive privacy of the Private Dining, with view of the Vinothèque, the climatized domain of the sommelier and his fine selection of wines. Bridges’ philosophy is to add only a couple of fresh ingredients to the dish in order to let the fish’s character and flavour fully blossom. Every dish retains its purity and is very easily digestible as well. Mainly locally & biologically grown vegetables complete these dishes. Sommelier Jasper van den Hoogen tastes and selects the wine in the Vinothèque. He serves specially composed wine arrangements and vintage Champagnes. Most wines can be ordered per glass. LUNCH MO-FR: 12.00-14.30 LUNCH SAT-SUN: 12.30-14.30 DINER: 18.30-22.30 VALET PARKING

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HIP & HOT

VOOGES bubblES & winES

pOnt 13

mappa

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HIP & HOT

bubbles & wines wine & champagne bar/bites

Nes 37 T. 020 - 422 33 18 www.bubblesandwines.com info@bubblesandwines.com In one of the quaintest streets of Amsterdam, and only one-minute-walk distance from famous Dam Square, you will find wine & champagne bar Bubbles & Wines. In a modern, intimate chocolate brown ambiance you can enjoy more than 50 wines by the glass (including 6 sparkling) and over 200 by the bottle. Our specialties are our “wine flights”, three half glasses from one grape variety but from different wine regions. Make nice matches with our Gourmet Bites (luxury finger food) or just come in for a glass of Champagne, Pinot Grigio or Pinot Noir. Our friendly and professional staff will help you out choosing your wine and they will give you advice on what Bites will match the best. After dinner you can enjoy our choice of beautiful Grappas and other digestives or have another glass of your favorite wine. For gourmet lovers Bubbles & Wines is the best choice for a complete evening out! Mon-Sat 15.30 - 01.00 Sun 14.00-21.00 Kitchen open - 00.45

POnT 13 restaurant

Haparandadam 50 T. 020 - 770 27 22 www.pont13.nl info@pont13.nl Restaurant Pont 13 is housed on an old ferry (pont=ferry) built in 1927. Until the 1990s, it used to travel back and forth across the IJ lake. When it was declared ready for the scrap heap, René Langendijk bought it to turn it into his dream restaurant. Since 2005, Pont 13 has its anchorage at the romantic postindustrial Westelijke Houthavens, characterized by a great deal of cultural development. A beautiful place to be, with a wonderful skyline – the Amsterdam harbor, interesting new architecture, and numerous boats of all kinds. The European cuisine of Pont 13 has an original character, with the Italian slow food tradition as inspirational starting-point. On an open fire organic dishes are prepared. The combination of the décor of the rebuilt

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ferry, the impressive view, and last but not at all least the slow food kitchen makes this a place where you just love to be. Distinctive are the relaxed, homely atmosphere and the delicious food. Pont 13 imports wines, meat and home-canned fruit from the beautiful Italian region Le Marche, where owner Rene has a little farm. open during chriStMaS holiday and Serving a feStive Multi-courSe dinner lunch daily froM 12.00 - 16.00 dinner daily froM 18.30 - 22.00

maPPa restaurant

Nes 59 T. 020 – 528 91 70 www.mappa.nl In the very heart of the city on the historical street Nes, Mappa is situated in a former coffee house opened in 1810 by the Frascati brothers who became famous for their very popular Frascati Café (from 1940 on). Later, the building was used as a theater with Frascati Café as a part of it. Since 2001, however, restaurant Mappa is the happy occupant. Mappa offers Italian cuisine and “everything is home-made and made with love.” Authentic Italian food is what Mappa offers, and the restaurant is proud of the fact that all its home-made dishes are made from fresh, biological products. Mappa is mainly known for its variety of pasta dishes, but besides the pastas it also has some beautiful antipasti (starters) and a few fish and meat specialties. The menu at Mappa is changed regularly to ensure creativity and quality in the kitchen. Needless to say, good Italian food goes hand in hand with beautiful wines. The wine list at Mappa is predominantly Italian, from small vineyards in Puglia to great wine masters such as Walter Massa. The interior of Restaurant Mappa is stylish in a timeless way; 60 people can be seated here. The staff at Mappa is friendly and always ready to help. As hospitality is very important to Mappa, you are guaranteed a wonderful evening out at the restaurant.

l’inviTe restaurant

Bloemgracht 47 T. 020 – 570 20 10 www.linvitelerestaurant.nl L’invite is an extraordinary Amsterdam restaurant in the heart of the the Jordaan in Old West. Located on one of the most beautiful canals in the Jordaan: the Bloemgracht in a historic canalhouse from 1628 and with a great terrace directly at the waterfront. While entering L’invité le Restaurant you will receive a warm welcome by Chef Richenel and restaurant maître Sjeng. The cuisine of L’invite is 100 percent artisan: pure and organic and because we are working with less fat, less sugar and less salt, the taste is more pure and the dishes are, lighter and tastier. At L’invite you can relax and enjoy the excellent cuisine and friendly service. In the evening there is the Menu du Chef for € 39,50 or you can make a choice of beautiful à la carte dishes – French cuisine with a modern twist. For the Christmas season there is a special festive dinner menu for € 49,50 or an extensive version with champagne, wine arrangement and friandises for € 99,- per person. At the site www.linvitelerestaurant.nl you will find the current menu, a photo impression of the restaurant and you can instantly book a table. open : tue – Sun for lunch and dinner lunch : 12.00 - 14.00 and dinner froM 18.00

opening tiMeS Kicthen: Mappa iS happy to welcoMe you Monday - wedneSday froM 18.00 - 22.00 thurSday - Saturday froM 18.00 - 23.00. reServationS recoMMended.

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HIP & HOT

VOOGES SOciÉtÉ wundErbar

OpEn

bihp

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HIP & HOT

Société Wunderbar bar / restaurant

Corner: Rokin 84–Enge Kapelsteeg 3 T 020 – 370 34 48 www.societewunderbar.nl info@societewunderbar.nl I Wonder……….. Is it a bar? A restaurant? A cocktailbar? A club? It’s Société Wunderbar. A place with a cozy, stylish and metropolitan ambiance, where you will be surprised by great food and drinks. The chef, Frits Berends, created a menu based on his international experiences, using authentic, fresh and organic Dutch products. The bar serves all kind of drinks like different kind of gin tonics, aperetivo’s from all over the world, specially developed cocktails, a very distinctive wine list and our unique collection of Grand Cru Champagnes. Société Wunderbar is located on a prime location in the heart of the city, the Rokin. The beautifully restored building used to be the residence and office of Prince Hendrik, husband of Queen Wilhelmina, around 1910. The somewhat hidden entrance is in the Enge Kapelsteeg, connecting the Kalverstraat and the Rokin with on that side also a very nice open air terrace. Come and enjoy food and drinks, mingle with the cosmopolitan Dutch and international crowd and let yourself be entertained by the enthousiastic staff. Please note the very special artwork by street artist Max Zorn, who specially made this piece for Société Wunderbar. Enjoy Tue – Thu 1600 – 0100 Fri – SaT 1600 – 0300 Sun 1500 – 00.00

open cafe / restaurant

Westerdoksplein 20 1013 AZ Amsterdam T. 020 – 620 10 x10 reserveren@open.nl www.open.nl Café Restaurant Open, a great example of modern architecture on the railroad swing bridge “19S” dating from 1920. You imagine yourself on the water with a panoramic view over the IJ, surrounded by the architecture of the new Amsterdam

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where both the crisp daylight as the atmospheric evening light have free reign. In warm weather, the special window construction opens via a unique fan system and both inside and on the terrace you can enjoy the beautiful transparent and open character. Open is for everyone - business or private from the city or neighborhood or visiting - for dinner or a glass of wine. The open kitchen is characterized by passion for fair and fresh seasonal products. You can enjoy a well balanced and pleasantly priced modern style European dinner menu. Open is situated on the edge of the Jordaan, within walking distance from Central Station and by car, public transport and even for small cruise ships within easy reach. OPEN is accessible to everyone via elevator or stairs via the terrace. 3-courSe dinner menu € 34,and 4-courSe dinner menu € 44,KiTchen open daily : 18.00 – 22.00 Sunday cloSed Bar : mon – Thu 17.00 – 01.00 and Fri and SaT 17.00 – 03.00 / Sunday cloSed

bihp art food drinks

Keizersgracht 335 T. 020 - 622 45 11 www.bihp.nl Situated on one of the city’s most beautiful canals, this exceptionally attractivelooking establishment has a somewhat unusual concept in that it combines food and drinks with art. During the year there are several exhibitions in the gallery in the basement: Galerie K335, while during every exhibition works by the exhibiting artist can also be seen in the restaurant. BIHP features a mainly European kitchen, classical base, with lots of interplay between old and new traditions and flavors from all corners of the world. All the food that will be served to you originates completely from our kitchen, even the bonbons and confectionery are homemade. The menu changes on a regular basis and the dishes are cooked with the seasons wherever possible, so you will be guaranteed of a delicious and honest meal. If you have any allergies or dietary wishes that are quite specific, we kindly ask you to let us know in advance so we can take them into ac-

count. To conclude: if you’re looking for good food, a nice ambience and art, BIHP absolutely is the right address for you. 3-courSe menu € 32,95 - choiceS oF FiSh, meaT and vegeTarian KiTchen open Tue - SaT 18.00 – 22.30

LuciuS Seafood restaurant

Spuistraat 247 T. 020 624 18 31 www.lucius.nl Lucius seafood restaurant is already for more than 38 years a reliable address for the true gourmets who love fish. A seafood restaurant where quality and atmosphere are the most important thing. Whether you like a simple piece of grilled salmon or rather be surprised with a special fish specialty, we welcome you all! As from day one, Lucius has always been a place for national and international guests. For many years we are receiving guests from all over the world. We provide our guests a menu in nine languages. Of course we are also visited by guest from our local area and the rest of the Netherlands and many of them have been loyal guests for years. Together with our employees we do everything to let you experience a wonderful evening. You are welcome seven days a week between 17.00 and 24.00. KiTchen open mo-Su 17:00-24:00 reServaTionS recommended

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Arts & Culture Text Wilag Kater et al. Photography With thanks to contributors

HUIS MARSEILLE Sochi: let all pictures tell their own story 14 December 2013 – 2 March 2014 Held at Huis Marseille (Amsterdam’s first photography museum), ‘The Sochi Project’ is a striking photojournalistic project about the Russian region around Sochi in the Caucasus on the Black Sea. The Winter Olympics will be held there in 2014. This photography project shows the drastic influence of the Olympic Games on the character of the region. Dutch photographer Rob Hornstra has worked with writer and filmmaker Arnold van Bruggen on ‘The Sochi Project’ for the last five years. Both have visited the small yet diverse area many times, even before Sochi received attention from international media.

With his long-term projects and ‘slow photojournalism’, Hornstra tries to make people aware of what is going on in the world. That is why he is not interested in single images; for him it is about a complete photo project through which he aims to bring something across. Besides ‘The Sochi Project’, the exhibition put together by Huis Marseille shows a selection from all of the work Hornstra has done in and about Russia during the last ten years. For example, Hornstra documents a woman who cuts a fish, or soldiers in Chechnya, but also groups of children, patients, workers and artists. “These photos are not really about one place or person,” he says, “they’re more about an archetype of that place or person. I want the image to stand for a greater truth, which viewers interpret for themselves.” www.huismarseille.nl

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APPEL ARTS CENTRE Prix de Rome 2013: the group of four 25 October 2013 – 26 January 2014 On 25 October, an exhibition opened at the Appel Arts Centre in Amsterdam featuring the work of four visual artists who were selected for the ‘Prix de Rome 2013’ award. Christian Friedrich (Germany), Falke Pisano (The Netherlands), Remco Torenbosch (The Netherlands) and Ola Vasiljeva (Latvia) created new work that was assessed by an international jury. The Prix de Rome is the oldest and most important award in the Netherlands for visual artists under the age of 40. The history of the award dates back to 1808 when King Louis Napoléon introduced it to the Netherlands in an effort to promote the arts. Although the award has changed regularly,

its goal has remained the same: to trace talented visual artists and promote their further development. The four selected artists were, together with 46 other artists, nominated by a wide group of scouts before being selected by an international jury. As nominees, each one received a work budget of € 7.500. That way, it was possible for them to create new work during a period of five months. This work can be seen at the Appel Arts Centre until 26 January 2014. The jury reached a decision based on the artists’ new work and chose the winner of the Prix de Rome on 5 November 2013: Falke Pisano. He received a sum of € 40.000 and was offered a work period in Rome. www.prixderome.nl www.deappel.nl/exhibitions

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ARTS & CULTURE

1. A Russian woman cutting fish. © Rob Hornstra / Flatland Gallery. 2. Two brothers, proudly holding a Kalashnikov in the border area between Abkhazia and Georgia. © Rob Hornstra / Flatland Gallery. 3. Dutchman Falke Pisano won the Prix de Rome 2013. © Daniel Nicolas.

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STADSSCHOUWBURG (CITY THEATRE)

Spectacle with or... without words?

and Sunday 2 March. The German theatre group Volksbühne am Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz will be performing on those days.

1 and 2 March 2014 Can you create fascinating theatre with 11 actors, one musician, and with ‘Murmel, murmel’ as only text? Judging by the critique following the premiere of ‘Murmel Murmel’, the answer is ‘yes’. The Berliner Zeitung, a Berlin daily, writes: “That during an hour and a half, it manages not to bore, but rather that it invigorates the disposition, refreshes the mind, stirs the heart, brings happiness and a positive mood – that is a true theatre miracle.” If you want to witness this theatre miracle yourself, visit the Amsterdamse Stadsschouwburg (Amsterdam City Theatre) on Saturday 1

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The illustrious Berlin Volksbühne will take charge of the Amsterdam theatre for an entire week with the programme Brandhaarden 2014 (Hotbeds 2014). At the city theatre, the Volksbühne will treat audiences to performances, films, concerts, debates and parties – and that during four evenings. Three of the performances are Germanspoken with Dutch surtitles. The fourth performance, with no other text than ‘Murmel murmel’, can be understood universally. The Volksbühne has existed for everyone (not just for the theatre elite) for approximately 100 years. The theatre group is socially involved, has the cour-

age to go against the stream – and is, in short, rebellious, engaged and anarchistic. The Volksbühne does not put any famous Germans on stage with the idea of ‘a fun night out’. Because, as far as artistic director Frank Castorf is concerned, the biggest danger is “that we become trendy”. Consider that a warning. www.ssba.nl/brandhaarden

FOAM AMSTERDAM Photographer, filmmaker and designer William Klein 20 December 2013 – 12 March 2014 Foam Amsterdam ends 2013 and enters 2014 with a unique retrospective exhibition on the influential photographer, filmmaker and designer William Klein (b. 1928). The entire museum will be dedicated to his life and career, which spans more than 60 years. Klein’s work had a major impact on photography during the second half of the 20th century. The William Klein retrospective has been curated by Foam and can be seen exclusively in Amsterdam. Klein settles in Paris in 1948, studies art with painter, sculptor and filmmaker Fernand

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ARTS & CULTURE

1. Three of the performances by the German ‘Volksbühne’ are Germanspoken with Dutch surtitles. The fourth performance, with no other text than ‘Murmel murmel’, can be understood universally. 2. ‘Smoke + Veil’, Paris 1958. © William Klein. 3.The hairdresser, 2010. © Dan Zollmann. 4. City landscape, 2008. © Dan Zollmann.

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Leger, and meets Alexander Libermann, the legendary art director of the American magazine Vogue. Here, Klein earns a name for himself with his ambivalent and ironic view of the fashion world. The exhibition covers Klein’s ground-breaking work in New York, Rome, Moscow and Tokyo. Much of his independent work, which he was doing at the same time, was just as ground-breaking and controversial. Klein received numerous awards for his work, among them the Outstanding Contribution to Photography Award. In the field of film, William Klein has been just as innovative and influential. Since the 1960s, he has made many feature films and documentaries, and directed more than 250 commercials. Klein’s work

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has been exhibited in museums and galleries worldwide. William Klein always remained his own man: independent, unconventional, enigmatic, contrary and talented in everything. Exhibitions of his work are rare in the Netherlands – the last one was held at the Stedelijk Museum (Municipal Museum) in 1967. www.foam.org

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JOODS HISTORISCH MUSEUM (JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM)

Jewish Antwerp through the lens of Dan Zollmann 16 September 2013 – 2 February 2014 Amsterdam and Antwerp have a centuries-old bond with Jewish culture. Therefore, the Jewish Historical Museum in Amsterdam is devoting attention to the work of the Belgian photographer Dan Zollmann. For years, Zollmann used his camera to follow the lives of pious Jewish fellow citizens in his hometown of Antwerp. He created unique images of their mostly unseen world. Many of the people portrayed by Zollmann are Hasidic Jews, an Orthodox-Jewish

movement that originated in Eastern Europe during the 18th century. Hasidic Jews maintain a joyful, mystical perspective of Judaism with a strict observance of all the rules and prohibitions of the Torah. Many withdraw from modern life if it conflicts with their own beliefs. Hailing from a Jewish diamond trade milieu, but not an Orthodox Jew himself, Zollmann (b. 1984) knows many Orthodox Jews and is welcome among them with his camera. Images of street life are alternated with intimate images of life inside the home. The exhibition also devotes attention to the conspicuous clothing worn by members of the Hasidic community. www.jhm.nl

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ARTS & CULTURE

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JEANINE HOFLAND CONTEMPORARY ART Who are the custodians of our current culture? 14 December 2013 – 8 February 2014 At the end of the 19th century, major cities such as Amsterdam were still dark when night fell. In that darkness, illuminated shop windows became a new and intriguing place of light for those who were walking about. This is represented in a painting by the 19th century Amsterdam artist George Hendrik Breitner: two women who are out for a stroll appear to be amazed by all the illuminated novelties in a window display on Paleisstraat. In fact, such window displays became symbolic beacons of the cultural development and prosperity of the 20th century.

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Can window displays at the beginning of our 21st century be interpreted as a symbol of decline, hyper-materialism and intemperance? Those who ponder this question will certainly be interested in the exposition ‘Custodians of Culture’ held at the Jeanine Hofland gallery.

Walking back to your hotel after a visit to the Jeanine Hofland gallery, you might just wonder if perhaps you yourself are a trustee of 21st century culture, just like the Amsterdam ladies of the 19th century featured in Breitner’s painting unknowingly were.

Young artists show you as passer-by – based on the painting by their colleague Breitner – their new work in the gallery’s window display. Therewith, an intriguing perspective is brought about that among other things, examines who the trustees of our time are. Are artists our cultural trustees? Art critics such as Dave Hickey question this because they believe that the 21st century art world itself is replete with hyper-materialism and intemperance.

The exposition is curated by Steven van Grinsven. jeaninehofland.nl

BIJBELS MUSEUM (BIBLE MUSEUM)

Erasmus in Amsterdam (not in Rotterdam) 28 October 2013 16 February 2014 For years, artist Neel Korteweg has been inspired and fascinated by writer, philosopher and theologian Desiderius Erasmus. After painting a portrait of Erasmus for the first time in 2006 (a request from her father), she could not get the Dutch thinker out of her mind. Korteweg travels to Basel, where Erasmus died in 1536, and studies the original texts of De Lof der Zotheid (In Praise of Folly), his internationally known book on folk superstitions and the traditions of the Roman Catholic Church. After that she makes paintings,

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ARTS & CULTURE

1. Two women who are out for a stroll appear to be amazed by all the illuminated novelties in a window display on Paleisstraat. Painting by George Hendrik Breitner, 1895, oil on canvas 121 x 90.5 com. (c) Private Collection The Netherlands Courtesy Jeanine Hofland Contemporary Art/Steven van Grinsven. 2. Erasmus as a boy, with, perhaps, some feminine features. © Neel Korteweg. 3. Suprematism: self-portrait of Malevich in two dimensions, 1915. Collectie Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam. 4. This painting depicts women who are bading (Malevich, 19081909). Collectie Stedelijk Museum Khardzhiev-Chaga.

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hundreds of drawings and a short film: Stroom der Zotheid (Stream of Folly). Erasmus is always the source of inspiration. She portrays him as a student, as an older man, as an Asian youngster clad in a shirt with poppies, or as an androgyne with feminine features. A selection of Korteweg’s most beautiful drawings and paintings can be seen at the Bible Museum. The exhibition is called ‘Erasmus in Amsterdam’. Although Erasmus was born in Rotterdam, to a certain extent, Korteweg now gives him a place in Amsterdam. A book bearing the same name has been published on Korteweg’s preoccupation with Erasmus. It features collaborations by 20 authors; among

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them Dutch writers such as Leo Vroman, Barber van de Pol, Kees Fens and Gerrit Komrij. In turn, they were also inspired by Neel Korteweg’s works of art on Erasmus. www.bijbelsmuseum.nl

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STEDELIJK MUSEUM (MUNICIPAL MUSEUM)

Malevich and the Russian avant-garde 19 October 2013 2 February 2014 Since the beginning of the 20th century, Kazimir Malevich and the Russian avantgarde movement have had a huge influence on the development of the arts. The Stedelijk Museum (Municipal Museum) in Amsterdam recognised this early on and purchased many of Malevich’s work in the last century. In 1989, this resulted in an astounding overview exhibition of his work which attracted much international attention. In 2013, it has happened again. This is probably the first time this year that such a large-scale collection of

Malevich and his artistic contemporaries has been shown in a single location. Malevich (1879-1935) was an artist, theorist and teacher. He was also an activist who tried to support the revolution well before the Russian Revolution of 1917. With this, Malevich envisions nothing more and nothing less than a new being; his expectations are high. From his rapidly developing artistry, he sets the highest standards for himself and his environment. After navigating through all of the well-known painting traditions – from Impressionism to Cubism – he develops his most famous concept, ‘Suprematism’. www.stedelijk.nl/malevich

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SERVICE

Want to have a meeting? WhatEVER buSInESS mEEtIng you may haVE plannEd, amStERdam WIll not lEt you doWn. hERE aRE juSt a fEW IdEaS foR youR nExt gathERIng.

pEaCE and quIEt? hotEl okuRa amStERdam Okura’s culinary expertise is reflected in the conference and events department of the hotel. It offers guests exclusive buffet options and a highly valued culinary service. The hotel’s entire first floor consists of 2,700 m2 of multifunctional areas. With 19 banquet rooms and two foyers, the Okura is able to provide space for meetings suitable for up to 1,500 people. The conference floor has recently been renovated, giving the rooms a new and sophisticated look and feel. Gentle colours can be found all around, as well as a carpet containing 14 different shades of green. Both

hIStoRy and ElEganCE? REnaISSanCE hotEl Whether you would like to organise a symposium, a gala dinner or an annual board meeting, the Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel is a top-notch venue located in Amsterdam’s city centre. The hotel has a total of 16 meeting rooms spread out over more than 1,500 m2, complete with a high level of services and amenities that are designed to ensure a successful event. Meetings and events of up to 700 attendees take place in the unique 17th century domed monument the ‘Koepelkerk’ (Domed Church) where history, elegance and style meet professional event organisation and flexibility. The high ceilings and natural daylight are unique characteristics of this icon of Amsterdam. The six additional rooms in the ‘Koepelkerk’

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exude the sense of peace and quiet that is characteristic for the Okura brand. The smaller rooms are provided with built-in video projectors and screens, ideal for video conferencing, meetings, receptions and festive get-togethers. With its view over the Amstel River, the 900 m2 Grand Ballroom has many options. LED lights allow the visitor to switch the colours in 30 different tones to match the right atmosphere for every event. hotel okura amsterdam ferdinand bolstraat 333 t 020 6787 790 www.okura.nl

blend in perfectly with the 11 contemporary and ultra-modern meeting and board rooms located in the hotel. These rooms can accommodate gatherings of up to 150 delegates. The contemporary interior design is supplemented with state of the art audio-visual technology including video conferencing, WiFi, and large, flat panel TV’s. Every room can be configured in a variety of settings. All events can be tailored to meet specific needs, and if necessary, culinary delicacies can even be prepared and presented by the executive chef himself. Renaissance amsterdam hotel kattengat 1 t 020 551 2060 www.renaissanceamsterdam.com

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SERVICE

Two loCaTIonS? MEETIng RooM SpaCE Spaces Business Club provides the perfect meeting rooms for groups from two to 100 people at two locations in Amsterdam. A city centre location on the ‘Herengracht’ (a canal) and a great location in the business heart of the ‘Zuidas’ (an important commercial area in the south of Amsterdam). The fully-equipped meeting rooms are all spacious, quiet and have plenty of natural light. In each room a projector can be found, as well as LED TV or LCD TV access. Free WiFi is available throughout both locations and in all meeting rooms.

aT THE aIRpoRT? SHERaTon aMSTERdaM aIRpoRT HoTEl The Sheraton Amsterdam Airport Hotel and Conference Center is the only hotel with direct access to Schiphol Amsterdam Airport’s arrival and departure halls. When it comes to planning a convention, conference or meeting, the 30 meeting rooms offer an inviting ambiance. All the rooms are equipped with wireless internet and state of the art technology. During the breaks, an extensive buffet outside the rooms is possible. ‘The Universe’, measuring 420 m2, is the biggest room. It is an ideal space for large meetings, gala dinners and

MEETIng RooMS EVERywHERE? REguS Regus is the world’s largest provider of flexible workspaces and has nine centres in Amsterdam. The meeting rooms, boardrooms and conference centre facilities can be booked by the day, half day or even by the hour. The following is offered: offices, virtual offices, meeting rooms, business lounges, video communications and business world cards.

Spaces Business Club has a private caterer who uses only fresh and healthy products for breakfast and lunch. The caterer also provides menus for dinners, parties and events. Spaces Business Club is also open during the weekends for gatherings from 80 to 200 people. Spaces Herengracht Herengracht 124-128, T 020 79 447 00 Spaces Zuidas Barbara Strozzilaan 201, T 020 24 024 00 www.spaces.nl

exclusive presentations. It can be divided into three rooms or extended with the ‘Skyway and Stargate Foyer’. The ‘Tower Suite’ has a soundproof boardroom with a unique view of Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport. It can be reserved separately as a luxurious meeting room for up to seven delegates. Five boardrooms for up to ten delegates are located on the second floor of the hotel and all have natural daylight. Sheraton amsterdam airport Hotel & Conference Center Schiphol Boulevard 101 – Schiphol T 020 316 4300 www.sheraton.nl

boardroom, cabaret, theatre, classroom or U-shape. All meeting rooms are under the watchful eye of a dedicated support team and offer free internet, a flip chart, a whiteboard, markers, water and pads. Regus / amsterdamse Bos Cuserstraat 93 T 020 491 9595 / 0800 020 2000 www.regus.nl

Guests can arrange meeting rooms for all kinds of business occasions and pick a layout that fits any specific meeting:

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SERVICE

NatIoNal PaRk? DuIN & kRuIDbERg In the breathtaking scenery of the National Park South Kennemerland and only a stone’s throw away from Amsterdam, lies the beautiful estate Duin & Kruidberg. Besides its 75 luxurious hotel rooms, Duin & Kruidberg has five ancient-style banquet rooms at the ground floor of the mansion. Duin & Kruidberg is a good choice for a lunch, stylish reception or dinner. The ten additional rooms in the basement are ideal for meetings, conferences and product presentations. The rooms are all equipped with high-quality audiovisual

CouNtRySIDE? lutE For the past ten years now, Lute Restaurant in Amstelveen (just outside Amsterdam) has stood for “extraordinary enjoyment”. The two boardrooms at Lute are ideal for meetings, brainstorming sessions, private lunches and dinners. All technical equipment that contributes to an efficient meeting is available. Both boardrooms have a separate entrance and easy access to the new lounge terrace outside. Peter Lute and his kitchen brigade will ensure that all culinary needs are fulfilled.

equipment and free high-speed wireless (and wired) internet. Using the sliding walls, the meeting rooms can be divided into separate rooms. With the LED lighting, different atmospheres can be created. Meetings can also be scheduled in combination with dinner at the Michelin star restaurant ‘The Friends of Jacob’. Ample free parking is available. Duin & kruidberg Duin en kruidbergerweg 60 Santpoort t 023 512 1800 www.duin-kruidberg.nl

provides “grand festive enjoyment”. Explore is an ideal venue for a wide range of activities such as business meetings, dinners, presentations, galas, TV recordings and the like, both for large and small groups. lute De oude Molen 5 - amstelveen www.lute.nu Explore Maxisweg – Muiden t 020 4722 4662 www.explorelute.com

The new location Explore in Muiden, housed in a former gunpowder factory,

CENtRally loCatED? NoVotEl aMStERDaM CIty The 4-star Novotel Amsterdam City is located in the commercial heart of Amsterdam, next to the exhibition and convention centre Amsterdam RAI and near the World Trade Center (WTC). The railway, tram, and tube station RAI are all nearby, allowing you to be in the city centre or at International Schiphol Airport within 15 minutes. Divided over the ground and first floor, the convention centre of the hotel measures 1,300 m2 and consists of a dedicated

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entrance, 17 meeting rooms, individual breakout areas, a modern business centre and possibilities for video conferencing. Its flexible layout makes it ideal for a wide variety of corporate and social events; from conferences and exhibitions to cocktail parties and festive evenings. Novotel Amsterdam can provide bedrooms and dining and meeting facilities to a group of up to 450 delegates. Novotel amsterdam City Europaboulevard 10 t 020 431 3699 www.novotelamsterdamcity.com

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www.CityRush.nl a new website for Rush on Amsterdam G DIN APP U L INC RUSH otspot in Y a h e it CIT ing forust typt both J ge ok Lo vent? will n and u e o i o r t a o ns! dy an nformectio i dir

RUSH ON AMSTERDAM IS LAUNCHING ITS NEW WEBSITE: WWW.CITYRUSH.NL. THE SITE WILL BE THE PRIMARY REFERENCE FOR TOURISTS WHO WANT TO BECOME FAMILIAR WITH EVERYTHING THE DUTCH CAPITAL HAS TO OFFER.

CityRush CityRus Rush

HOTSPOTS The website offers visitors all kinds of possibilities, and includes the city’s top hotspots. This is the place to be whether you are looking for a certain type of restaurant, a nice hotel, a well-known museum (or maybe a less well-known museum), and much more. After choosing a hotspot, a city map will appear which will be useful when you plan a route to the relevant destination in the city of Amsterdam (and, when applicable, beyond). An easy-touse search engine will bring you anywhere in no time. EVENTS A list of hotspots is not the only service CityRush.nl offers visitors. The site also features a calendar of upcoming events. If there is time to spare for something special, the site will not disappoint you. Especially because all of these events are chosen by the editors of Rush on Amsterdam. ARTICLES Those who want background information on any of the well-known places in Amsterdam, will also be at the right address. Whether you are interested in the Rijksmuseum (the ‘Night Watch’!), the Van Gogh Museum or the

34 I Rush on Amsterdam 76

Heineken Museum... The archive of Rush on Amsterdam is pretty endless. As is the corresponding archive of CityRush.nl. Should you have an endless curiosity for everything that the Dutch capital has in store, then a visit to www.CityRush.nl is highly recommended. APP Yes, there is a CityRush app for your smartphone or tablet too! With this app, you can choose your favourite hotspot or event on a map and – if you would like to do so – read all about it. Let your Apple or Android device calculate the route to the hotspot or event you would like to visit. Know your way around in Amsterdam right from the start! TOGETHER The site will make one other thing clear. CityRush.nl is an initiative of both Rush on Amsterdam and YOU in Amsterdam (the other famous hotel magazine in Amsterdam). Both magazines are published by EHAM Publications. Together, the two magazines are available at about 80 % of the capital’s hotels. Both Rush on Amsterdam and YOU in Amsterdam are renowned for their quality and their completeness. You will not miss a thing.

winter Summer 20132013 - 14


www.lovelyladies.nl

(for adults only)


Fast Facts AMSTERDAM TOURIST INFORMATION Besides providing tourist information such as hotel reservations, excursions and theatre tickets, the Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board (ATCB) provides information on excursions, guided walking tours, attractions, restaurants, shops, parking facilities and public transport. The information offices of the ATCB can be found at several locations: opposite Central Station, on platform 2 inside the station, on Leidseplein and at the Schiphol arrival hall. ATCB – T 0900 4004040 (40 eurocents p.m.)

and, among other things, a free guided tour of the Amsterdam Diamond Group. You can buy the card for 24, 48 or 72 hours. ATCB – T 0900 4004040 (40 eurocents p.m.), also: www.iamsterdam.com

INTERNET Internet stalls of the telephone booth type can be found all over the city centre. The WiFi identifcation ‘Hotspot Amsterdam’ allows you to connect to the internet from various locations with a wireless enabled desktop, laptop or smartphone within range of a hotspot zone. www.hotspotamsterdam.com

MAKING PHONE cALLS I AMSTERDAM cITy cARD In addition to public transport and a roundtrip of the canals, almost all the Amsterdam museums can be visited free of charge with the electronic I Amsterdam City Card. You’ll also receive a 25 % discount at restaurants and tourist attractions, free admission to the Holland Casino,

78 I Rush on Amsterdam

To call abroad from the Netherlands, dial 00 followed by country code, area code and number. For the country codes, please see the Tele Info section in the Amsterdam phone book. The Netherlands country code is 31. For most public phones you need a phone card, available from post offices, ATCB offices (= tourist offices),

tobacconists, some supermarkets and department stores.

T 020 677 77 77 (or 777 77 77) Electric Taxi Company Taxi-E – T 881 00 44 44

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS • Central emergency: 112 • Doctor’s service: 0900 503 2042 • KPN telecom information: national 0900 8008 international 0900 8418

BANKS Banks are open on weekdays from 09:00 through 16:00 or 17:00 hrs. Most banks are closed on Monday mornings. Some larger branches stay open later on Thursday evenings.

cHANGING MONEy Money and traveller’s checks can be changed at banks, some hotels and specialised exchange offices such as GWK (at Central Station) and SUNRO Change.

TAXIS There are fewer taxi stands than there used to be, but these days it is much easier than before to hail a cab on the street. TCA Amsterdam Taxi Centrale –

HIRING BIcycLES Bicycling is a wonderful way to get around Amsterdam. To hire a bike, look in the phone book under ‘Fietsen-verhuur’. A word of warning: always lock up your bike, as bike theft is rife. There is a free bicycle parking area at Central Station.

BIcycLE TAXIS An environmentally-friendly means of transportation in the city centre is offered by the bicycle taxi. You can hail them on the street or reserve one by telephone. www.wielertaxi.nl – T 06 1859 5153 (or 06 2824 7550) www.amsterdambiketaxi.info – T 06 454 13 725

TRAVELLING By WATER In Amsterdam, travelling by water can be done in all sorts of ways.

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FAST FACTS

Canal Bus stops near all the major museums, shopping areas and attractions. T 020 626 55 74, address Weteringschans 26, www.canal.nl/bus Lovers Museum Boat leaves at the front of Central Station and stops at all the major museums. T 020 530 54 12, address Prins Hendrikkade 25, www.lovers.nl Meyer’s Rondvaarten offers canal cruises and special arrangements on request. T 020 623 42 08, address Damrak jetty

clamping is too, at least € 64. You also run the chance of having your car towed due to illegal parking. It will cost you a minimum of € 180 to get you car back! Paid parking in the city centre applies Monday through Saturday 09:00-24:00 and Sunday from 12:00-24:00 hrs. Car parks can be found at ‘de Bijenkorf ’ (department store near Beursplein, off Damrak), Byzantium (near Leidseplein), Europarking (Marnixstraat 250), Heinekenplein, Museumplein, Prinsengracht 540-542, Waterlooplein and Central Station. Stadstoezicht / Parking Authority – T 020 553 03 00

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Water Taxis are not cheap, but offer an enjoyable means of transportation. T 020 535 63 63, address Stationsplein 8, www.watertaxi.nl

PARKING You are strongly advised not to take your car into the inner city. Parking is expensive and wheelWinter 2013 - 14

GVB, Amsterdam’s public transportation company, provides integrated metro, tram and bus service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since 2010, a comprehensive chipcard ticket system allows you to travel on the metro, trams and buses, using just one card. The so-called ‘OV chip card’ is available at the GVB office in front of Central Station,

at railway station ‘Amsterdam Lelylaan’ and at railway station ‘Amsterdam Zuid’. The chip card is also available at the ATCB tourist offices, many supermarkets and most tobacconists. When travelling by tram, single-trip chip cards are available from the conductor (please walk to the rear end of the tram). GVB travel info – T 0900 9292, also: www.gvb.nl

SCHIPHOL AIRPORT How do you travel to Amsterdam Schiphol International Airport? By car: Schiphol Airport is only 20 minutes by car from the centre of Amsterdam. The airport is centrally located on the motorway network in the country’s urban agglomeration of Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam and Utrecht. All these cities are rather close at hand, while the rest of the country is easily accessible via the A1, A2, A4 and A9 motorways.

By train: Schiphol can be reached by train from the city centre in 10-15 minutes. There are also excellent rail connections to the airport from the rest of the Netherlands and from abroad. Schiphol has a stop for the high-speed train, too, taking you to Antwerp, Brussels and Paris. Train tickets are sold at the Netherlands Railways counters and ticket machines at Schiphol Plaza. There are money changing machines here if you need coins.

BUSINESS CENTRE SCHIPHOL All business and secretarial services are available at Schiphol Airport, including offices and meeting rooms – T 020 653 24 80. Also: Schiphol Information – T 0900 0141

www.cityrush.nl I 79


De Tafel van Twaalfhoven Dutch design at its best www.tafelvantwaalfhoven.nl T 0031 (0) 6 263 469 42

Birkenstock Store You can find the biggest choice of sandals, slippers, clogs and collectors items specially made for the Birkenstock Store Amsterdam here.

The Birkenstock Store Amsterdam 1e Constantijn Huygenstraat 76 and Westermarkt 19 T. (020) 689 1267


SHOPPING AREAS

Amsterdam’s Shopping Areas CITY CEnTrE Two of the city’s most popular shopping streets can be found near Dam Square. Running from Central Station to the Dam, Nieuwendijk has a misleading name - it means ‘new dike’ - for it is actually the oldest dike in the city. This shopping area with numerous clothing stores, boutiques, shoe stores, souvenir shops, fast-food restaurants, etcetera, bustles with tourists. Kalverstraat runs from the other side of the square to the Munt. Named after the calf market that was held here in the 15th century, it is teeming with fashionable clothing, footwear and gift stores. The boulevard Rokin also starts at Dam Square. Just ignore the construction going on (for the NorthSouth Line metro) and stroll along the stores with women’s wear, gorgeous shoes, art, cigars, diamonds and jewellry. The short but very busy shopping street Heiligeweg crosses Kalverstraat just before the Munt and leads to Koningsplein where you’ll find the world-famous floating Flower Market and Leidsestraat, ending up in renowned Leidseplein.

9 STrAATJES

north from Rozengracht as far as Brouwersgracht are what original Jordaaners consider to be the Jordaan proper, but the Jordaan actually extends south from Rozengracht to Elandsgracht and includes indoor market De Looier, which is the largest permanent indoor Art and Antiques Centre in the country.

UTrECHTSESTrAAT To the east of the city, between famous Rembrandtplein and Frederiksplein lies Utrechtsestraat,

SPIEGELKWArTIEr Spiegelkwartier, a shopping area in the eastern part of the city centre, has an international reputation for fine art and antiques. Concentrated in and around Nieuwe Spiegelstraat, this district close to the Rijksmuseum boasts over 80 antique shops and galleries. An area that’s a must for lovers of art and antiques!

MUSEUMKWArTIEr

Endless ideas for events

Hobbemastraat, Van Baerlestraat and the Byzantium plus chic P.C. Hooftstraat are part of the Museum Quarter in the south of the city and famous for its designer boutiques. Shoppers will find virtually every famous label and fashion house here, among them Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, René Lezard, Chanel, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Louis Vuitton, Roberto Botticelli and Tod’s, to name just a few.

APOLLOKWArTIEr

Are you looking for a venue for your event, product launch or company party? Of course there is plenty of choice, until you start looking for an inspiring environment as well. Thatís when it is worth considering the Amsterdam Beurs van Berlage. Its unique history and impressive ambiance will turn your event into something truly special. We offer 21 different rooms for 50 to 1,200 persons, and our very own catering company Maison van den Boer can make sure your guests want for nothing. Have we given you any ideas?

(The Nine little streets) This lively and picturesque neighbourhood encompassing the cross streets between Singel and Prinsengracht, in the area between Raadhuisstraat and Leidsestraat, offers a great variety of shopping, OLD WEST restaurants and cafés. The area is Not far from the Jordaan lies1 also fascinating for its architec- BvB.adv_Evenementen_148x105_ENGELS.indd Old West with, among others, ture: indeed, the 9 Straatjes is a Kinkerstraat and the Ten Kate microcosm of canal-belt architecMarket. Close to the Vondelpark, tural styles. parallel to Overtoom (these days JOrDAAn known for its great number of inThis district (to the West of the terior decorating shops as well as center) may be Amsterdam’s most variety of restaurants) and within famous neighbourhood besides a stone’s throw of the city’s centre the ‘Walletjes’ (Red Light District). is Kinkerstraat, a cozy shopping The streets and canals extending area characterised by an interestWinter 2013 - 14

ing mix of people and cultures, a great variety of shops, a busy but friendly atmosphere and the pleasant Ten Kate market which crosses Kinkerstraat.

Beautiful villas and luxury hotels abound in the chic, elegant district known as the Apollokwartier (Apollo Quarter). Go and have a look at Cornelis Schuytstraat, and be sure to leave yourself some time for a leisurely stroll along Beethovenstraat.

DE PIJP

The De Pijp district, roughly rectangular in shape, is located to the Endless ideas southeast of the city centre, just beyond the girdle of canals, close a popular shopping street rich to Leidseplein en Rembrandtplein. 14:43:30 in history. Undulating over16-07-2010 the Its perimeters are demarcated by bridges that cross the HerenStadhouderskade and the Amstel. gracht, Keizersgracht and PrinsenIt has become a very popular gracht canals, Utrechtsestraat is neighbourhood, a true cultural renowned for its many speciality melting pot and boasts, among stores and boutiques and a great others, a great variety of (ethnic) variety of (international) restaurestaurants and the Albert Cuyp rants. Market.

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Listing Hotel

Listing 2- STAR HOTELS Acostar Hotel Alp Hotel Amistad Hotel Amsterdam Wiechmann Hotel Armada Hotel Art Gallery Hotel Asterisk Hotel Budget Hotel Barbacan Budget Hotel Flipper City Hotel Cordial Hotel Family Hotel Verdi Hoksbergen Hotel Hotel 83 Hotel Adolesce Hotel de Gerstekorrel Hotel de Munck Hotel Diann Hotel Freeland Hotel Hegra Amsterdam Centre Hotel Hermitage Amsterdam Hotel Iris Hotel Kap Hotel Max Hotel Monopole&Appartementen Hotel old Quarter Hotel Parkzicht Hotel Plantage Hotel Rembrandt Hotel Sipermann Hotel Washington ITC Hotel Koopermoolen Poet Hotel Amsterdam Water Front

82 I Rush on Amsterdam

3-STAR HOTELS In the lobby of the following hotels Sphinx Hotel

Amstel Botel Best Western Dam Square Inn Best western Leidse Square Hotel Bellevue Hotel Borgmann Villa Hotel Boutique Hotel Maxime Delta Hotel City Centre Floris France Hotel Hampshire Hotel Beethoven Hampshire Hotel Theatre District Amsterdam Hampshire Hotel Prinsengracht Hem Hotel Hotel Aalders Hotel Alexander Hotel Alfa Plantage Hotel Amstelzicht Hotel Arena Hotel Blyss Hotel Bronckhorst Hotel Casa 400 Amsterdam Hotel CC Hotel Central Park Hotel Citadel Hotel D’Amsterdam Hotel Europa 92 Hotel Luxer Hotel Nes Hotel Nieuw Slotania Hotel V Hotel van Gogh Hotel Zandbergen Ibis Amsterdam Airport Jupiter Hotel Meiniger Hotel Amsterdam City West NL-Hotel Museumplein NL-Hotel district Leidseplein Nova Hotel Amsterdam Owl Hotel

Park Inn by Radisson Amsterdam Airport Prins Hendrik Prinsenhotel Qbic Hotel WTC Amsterdam Rembrandt Classic RobertRamon Remco Hotel Amsterdam City West Sandton Hotel de Filosoof Singel Hotel The Bridge Hotel The Concert Hotel The Times Hotel Tulip Inn Amsterdam Centre Tulip Inn Amsterdam Riverside

In the lobby of the following hotels Amsterdam House Hotel Eureka Bastion Hotel Amsterdam Centrum - Southwest Campanile Hotel & Restaurant Amsterdam South - East Hampshire Hotel - Lancaster Amsterdam Hotel Sint Nicolaas Hotel the Exchange Ibis Amsterdam Centre Ibis Amsterdam City Stopera Ibis Amsterdam City West Lloyd Hotel

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World of Brands

De Bijenkorf department store. A truely inspirational and luxurious shopping experience since 1870.

The premium department store offers the worlds most exclusive brands, such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Gucci. Visit our flagshipstore in Amsterdam on Dam Square or at deBijenkorf.nl/english


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