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KING’S DAY For the very first time
REMBRANDT You may find him shopping
TUNNELLING Amsterdam’s new history revealed
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QUEEN’S DAY? NO, KING’S DAY In 2013, the Dutch greet their first king since 1890 – and honour their queen
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A glimpse behind the scenes of the Concertgebouw, this magnet for world-class music
CULTURAL INDOOR SHOPPING? At Magna Plaza, indoor shopping and Rembrandt go hand in hand
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OUR COVER • Queen’s Day as the Dutch know it... and want it as their King’s Day – see p. 6
MORE THAN TUNNELLING This is what you get when you want a metro line in a city built on poles
AN AMERICAN BACK HOME IN AMSTERDAM The most beautiful cigar house you could possibly find anywhere in the world
TOP RESTORER OF ERARD PIANOS Frits Janmaat was struck by a very special instrument: “I didn’t understand the thing at all.”
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Get a taste of what’s happening the coming months Where and how can kids enjoy themselves?
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Do you want your own bartender? Is number 7 your magic number?
64 ARTS & CULTURE
Amsterdam is about paintings, of course, but also about...
A fine taste of Amsterdam? Go to the Utrechtsestraat!
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Robert van der Zwan T 0653 – 31 63 74 E editor@rush.nl ART DIRECTOR Peter Leeuwerink EDITORS Lizet Deutekom, Constanze Fluhme, Robin Glendenning (English language editor), Bénédicte Gruys, Wilag Kater, Henry Salman, Carla van Splunteren, Evert Stel (photographer)
PRINTED BY Moderna (Belgium) COVER PHOTOGRAPH Amsterdam Marketing Subscriptions: ¤ 14 a year (shipping costs excluded) please send your address to: info@rush.nl Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without the publisher’s written permission (c) 2013
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For the very first time in the Netherlands
Queen’s Day makes way for King’s Day
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This year’s Queen’s Day, The TraDiTional naTional holiDay celebraTing The DuTch monarchy since 1885, is going To be a very special occasion inDeeD. her royal highness Queen beaTrix of The neTherlanDs will abDicaTe from The Throne anD her son, his royal highness prince willem-alexanDer, prince of orange-nassau, will be inauguraTeD as King.
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FEATURE
Text Robin Glendenning Photography RVD et al.
Page 6 & 7 Queen’s Day festivities on the canals. as you can see, this day there really is only one colour: the colour of the House of Orange-Nassau! (Courtesy of amsterdam Marketing) Page 9 top Her Majesty Queen Beatrix. although she has always taken an avid interest in politics and advised numerous Dutch prime ministers, Queen Beatrix has preferred to keep a relatively low profile and aspired to a normal, unpretentious and domestic lifestyle. (Courtesy of NOS, Mike van Breemen) Page 9 below July 5, 2010: photo session with Princess alexia, the Prince of Orange, Princess Catharinaamalia, Princess ariane and Princess Máxima. (Courtesy of the RVD)
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April 30, after precisely 33 years on the throne following her mother’s abdication in 1980, Queen Beatrix will make way in favour of her son, Crown-Prince Willem-Alexander. He will be the first king of the Netherlands since the death of his greatgreat grandfather, King Willem III, in 1890. His wife, Princess Máxima the most popular member of the Dutch royal family, will become Queen Máxima and their eldest daughter, Princess Catharina-Amalia, will become the heir apparent to the Dutch throne.
she has traditionally visited Dutch towns and villages and mingled with her subjects, chatting and indulging in tea, coffee and cakes.
Riding hER bicyclE The Kingdom of the Netherlands has been an independent constitutional monarchy since March 16 1815, after the decline and eventual fall of the Dutch Republic and the defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1813. It has been governed by members of the House of Orange-Nassau ever since.
VisiTing policE oFFicERs Queen Juliana abdicated from the Dutch throne on April 30, 1980. On that same day, as the constitution prescribes, her daughter Princess Beatrix was inaugurated as Queen at six minutes past ten in the morning. Unfortunately, the festive ceremony in the Nieuwe Kerk on Dam Square was marred by rioting in the streets of Amsterdam. As the fresh Queen Beatrix began her inauguration speech, police came to blows with protestors who seized the occasion to voice their dissatisfaction with all kinds of social wrongs in her kingdom. At the end of the evening, more than 100 civilians and 93 police officers were wounded. The following day, the queen’s first official visit was to seven police officers in hospital.
The Dutch monarch, as head of state, has many duties and responsibilities under the Dutch constitution. S/he is officially a member of the Dutch cabinet and until 2012 had the right of initiative in proposing who should try to form a government in the country’s complex coalition system. Although she has always taken an avid interest in politics and advised numerous Dutch prime ministers, Queen Beatrix has preferred to keep a relatively low profile and aspired to a normal, unpretentious and domestic lifestyle. It has not been unheard of, for instance, to spot her riding her bicycle in The Hague. And on Queen’s Day,
MoVing woRds Queen’s Day was first celebrated as Princess’s Day on the birthday of Princess Wilhelmina, on August 31 1885. When she accessed to the throne in 1890, the holiday became known as Koninginnedag (Queen’s Day). When Juliana became queen in 1948, Queen’s Day moved to her birthday, April 30, and although her daughter, present Queen Beatrix was born on January 31, she has chosen – by way of tribute – to celebrate it on her mother’s birthday. During her inauguration speech, she turned to her mother and spoke the following moving words: “Dear
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The Vondelpark, A wellknown park for Amsterdamers, is for the kids only on Queen's Day. (Courtesy of Amsterdam Marketing)
mother, today is your birthday. In deep gratefulness for all we have received from you, this day – in the future, too – shall be associated with your wisdom, your compassion, your motherly love. For this day shall remain: Queen’s Day!” LET mE go bAck To AmsTERdAm Queen’s Day in the Netherlands is a national holiday. The country turns into a huge market. During the vrijmarkt, as it is called, the Dutch let down their hair (often dying it orange), sell their second-hand bric-a-brac, stage all manner of performances and generally dance and party in the streets from morning till night. You cannot avoid the celebrations – not that you’d want to – but if you’re in Amsterdam with your children on Queen’s Day, be sure to go to the Vondelpark. Here, adults are prohibited from having a stall and the entire park is given over to the kids. Fun and games, face-painting, lots of toys and lots of sweets and treats.... the kids will remember it for the rest of their lives and badger you to return to Amsterdam for Queen’s Day for evermore.
IT’s... kIng’s dAy! The tradition is set to continue, as future King WillemAlexander has announced that from 2014, King’s Day will be celebrated on his own birthday, April 27. (Since that is a Sunday in 2014, this first year it will actually be on April 26.) It is likely that the day’s character will remain unchanged; he will visit two locations every year, this year the town of Amstelveen and the village of Graft-De Rijp, the places Queen Beatrix was planning to visit on April 30.
Be sure to go to the Vondelpark
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no coRonATIon Although the traditional symbols of royalty will be present during the ceremony in the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), as well as the king’s sword to demonstrate his power, the crown is not placed on the new monarch’s head. (It is never worn at all, in fact.) The ceremony, in addition to being secular although it is held in a church, is therefore an inauguration rather than a coronation.
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1 What’s happening on april 30? • In the morning, Queen Beatrix will sign the Act of Abdication at the Royal Palace on Dam Square.
and guarantee his total immunity. That last term lies at the heart of the Dutch constitutional monarchy: the sovereign operates under full responsibility of the ministers.
• Immediately afterwards, before the inauguration ceremony, Willem-Alexander will constitutionally be the new king. Beatrix will be Princess Beatrix again, preferring that title to the other option, Queen-Mother.
photo exhibition ‘our Queen’ From March 12 through May 25 the Amsterdam Stock Exchange Beurs van Berlage welcomes you with a photo exhibition in honour of Queen Beatrix, called ‘Onze Koningin’ (‘Our Queen’).
• The former queen and new king will subsequently appear on the balcony of the palace for a brief speech. • Afterwards, King Willem-Alexander and (now) Queen Máxima will appear on the balcony with their three daughters, Princesses Catharina- Amalia, Alexia and Ariane. • A few hours after the balcony scene, the new head of state will go to the Nieuwe Kerk, where members of the two houses of parliament will be holding a combined meeting. • King Willem-Alexander will swear allegiance to the Dutch Constitution. The representatives of the people will each declare that they will protect all the rights of the king
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The exhibition does not not only cover the period of 33 years during which Queen Beatrix is head of state, but also the 75 years of her personal life. All photographs are accompanied by short texts, providing the right context.
3 1.These two orange fans are typical of what you can expect the crowds to look like. 2. You can enjoy all kinds of performances during Queen’s Day in Amsterdam. 3. Many people dress up on Queen’s Day, some as... the Queen. (All three photos: courtesy of Amsterdam Marketing)
During her reign, there have been very happy moments as well as sad ones. During such sad occasions, the queen took it upon herself to comfort the people around her. Beurs van Berlage is located between Central Station and Dam Square. www.onzekoningin.nl
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City News
Photo Reneé Klein
City News Van Gogh in a special place
Rolling Kitchens
Amsterdam is hot
a CoMpreheNsive overview, uNtil May 13 that is
Mobile deliCaCies froM May 9 - 12
the destiNatioN for 2013
The historical Amsterdam stock exchange Beurs van Berlage is the venue for an exhibition of full-sized reproductions of a selection of Van Gogh’s works.
The Weekend of the ‘Rolling Kitchens’ is back, this time with its sixth edition from May 9 to May 12 at Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek.
The ‘My Dream Exhibition’, as it is called, brings together reproductions of the most important paintings from Vincent van Gogh’s oeuvre in one comprehensive overview. One can take in near-perfect prints of more than 200 works. Seven 3D animations of some of Van Gogh’s most famous works are part of the programme. By uncovering the hidden dimensions of Van Gogh’s works, as well as presenting suggested movements by the painter, these animations give you a glimpse into the artistic mind of this famous Dutch artist.
Starting Ascension Day, mobile kitchens will descend upon the park at the Westergasfabriek to create an enormous open-air restaurant. Food to suit all appetites will be on the menu, including everything from fresh Italian pizza to sophisticated seafood dishes. Pick up your order ‘on the spot’ and relax in the sun (or under the stars) while enjoying your food. The dishes are designed to tickle the most culinary of taste buds without hurting your wallet too much.
Amsterdam has been hailed by the Lonely Planet to be the second-hottest destination in the world to visit in 2013, after San Francisco. The annual list is compiled on the basis of feedback from Lonely Planet’s online community, its staff, as well as professional writers.
Beurs van Berlage is located between Central Station and Dam Square. Either way, you are within three to five minutes walking distance. The exhibition ends on May 13.
There is no entrance fee to ‘Rolling Kitchens’. The rolling kitchens will be open from 13:00 to 23:00. The Westergasfabriek is about a 30 minutes walk from Amsterdam Central Station. Tram number 10 stops nearby.
The Lonely Planet list is not based on where travellers are already going, but rather on where they believe they would like to go during the coming year. Amsterdam’s high ranking in 2013 is probably due to the ‘Amsterdam 2013’ theme this year. A number of impressive milestones can be part of the experience of any traveller from abroad. The renovated Rijksmuseum (with the ‘Night Watch’) will re-open, as does the Van Gogh Museum. On top of these and other highlights, Amsterdam celebrates the fact that it became ‘Canal City’ 400 years ago. In 1613, the city council decided to create the canals that Amsterdam is so renowned for today.
www.vangoghexhibition.com
www.rollingkitchens.nl
www.iamsterdam.com
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CITY NEWS
Amsterdam Heritage Days
Not looking to the stars...
Bric-a-brac Markets
vIEW THE CITY THrougH THE EYES of A HISTorIAN
THE obSErvATorY IS rEAllY vErY doWN To EArTH
YES, AMSTErdAM HAS THEM, Too!
400 years ago, Amsterdam started to build its world-famous canal ring, a jubilee that the city celebrates this year. To mark this special year, the Amsterdam Bureau of Monuments & Archaeology is organising four special editions of the Amsterdam Heritage days. These ‘Open Monument’ days are designed to bring people into contact with the historical environment of Amsterdam and to encourage interest in the history of the city (and the Netherlands in general). These special days allow you to experience the amazing story of the canals through the ages. And you can visit locations that are usually off-limits to the general public. The canal ring was officially declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010.
The oldest surviving observatory of the Netherlands is to be found in the Felix Meritis building (‘Happy through Merit’). Felix Meritis will this year celebrate its 225th birthday with a remarkable art installation on its roof. The opening of the ‘Amsterdam of Above-Amsterdam of Below’ installation by the AmsterdamIraqi artist Joseph Semah will be on Thursday, April 18. From April 19 there will be guided tours for the public.
The Amsterdam Heritage Days this year are on March 24, May 26 and July 14 (all Sundays) and on September 14 and 15 (Saturday and Sunday). Participation is free.
The installation trains the lenses of the telescopes not towards the heavens, but towards quotes adorning ten buildings in Amsterdam. All ten buildings can be seen from the observatory. On the building of the Dutch Central Bank (‘DNB’), for instance, you can read a quote by famous Portuguese-Dutch philosopher Spinoza: “Desire is the very essence of man”.
www.amsterdam.nl/openmonumentendag
www.felix.meritis.nl
Do you want to get a taste not only of Amsterdam, but also of the Amsterdamers in their ultimate ‘local state’? Then go to a flea market, or bric-a-brac market. The Monday-to-Saturday flea market Waterlooplein (Waterloo Square) is located on a large square where a Jewish market was situated until World War II. It became a more general bazaar after the war. The generations of the 60s and 70s made it a popular place for promoting and experiencing youth culture. Nowadays, however, you can also find (almost new) second-hand clothing, as well as military items, books and cultural objects from indigenous societies. On Monday mornings, the Noordermarkt in the Jordaan area is home to a small but delightful bric-a-brac market. Here you will find a mix of second-hand goods ranging from antiques and books to clothes and household kitsch. www.hollandsemarkten.nl
WE WILL ROCK YOU
This year, the London production of the musical ‘We Will Rock You’ celebrates its 10th anniversary. After a successful theatre tour in the UK, the hit performance by Queen and Ben Elton is now touring the world for the first time. Among the countries on the list is the Netherlands, where the show can be seen at the Heineken Music Hall in Amsterdam. ‘We Will Rock You’ was written by Ben Elton in collaboration with Queen members Brian May and Roger Taylor. The musical contains 24 of Queen’s legendary hits, such as ‘We Are the Champions’, ‘Killer Queen’, and... ‘We Will Rock You’, of course. www.heineken-music-hall.nl; April 11 – 13, 2013: start 20:00, Heineken Music Hall, Amsterdam
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Photo Marjo van Rooyen
CIty neWs
‘24H’: what’s that supposed to mean? amsterdam presents Itself nonstop In all fIVe regIons ‘24H’ is the collective name of all kinds of events and activities taking place in the five regions of the city this year, as part of the ‘400-Year Amsterdam’ celebrations. In the centre, the east, the south, the west and the north, each 24-hour event will start at midday on Saturday and finish at midday on Sunday. The activities in the centre – including taxi drivers telling anecdotes and historical guided tours by night – have been and gone, unfortunately. But the activities in the east are scheduled for the weekend of March 23. On the Sunday morning, for instance, there will be a huge breakfast at Artis Zoo. ‘South’ will follow in June, ‘West’ in September and ‘North’ in October. The programme of these events is yet to be announced.
Iconic Shop Windows
Museum Weekend
InspIred by rembrandt, Vermeer and others
museums for free on aprIl 6 and 7
To mark the re-opening of Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum, the iconic shop windows of luxury department store ‘de Bijenkorf’ are inspired by famous paintings like Rembrandt’s Night Watch and Vermeer’s Milkmaid. The windows will be launched on Tuesday April 9 by its directors, Rijksmuseum’s Wim Pijbes and de Bijenkorf’s Giovanni Colauto.
Over 550 museums in the Netherlands open their doors to the public for free (or discounted entrance fees) during the National Museum Weekend on April 6 and 7. Special activities and events will be organised throughout the two days.
In its Amsterdam flagship store a pop-up shop will be opened on the same day, selling unique items like shawls from Dutch fashion designer Alexander van Slobbe and products designed by Irma Boom. Irma Boom was also responsible for the design of Rijksmuseum’s new logo. Next to the Rijksmuseum’s own shop the unique items will be exclusively on sale at nine of de Bijenkorf stores and via deBijenkorf.nl. de bijenkorf department store, dam 1, amsterdam
And nowhere more so than in Amsterdam, home to some 50+ museums, many of which are world famous. Apart from the well-known establishments, among the numerous museums participating are the Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum), Science Center NEMO, the Verzetsmuseum (Resistance Museum), Museum de Oude Kerk (Museum the Old Church) and the EYE Film Institute. At De Oude Kerk, you could enjoy the annual World Press Photo Exhibition with its fascinating collection of pictures by photographers from all over the world. The Eye Film Institute, residing in a magnificent new building across the river IJ, has made April 6 and 7 a ‘weekend of the public’ for a mere € 1.
www.iamsterdam.com www.museumweekend.nl
MAGICAL FLOWERS
‘De Keukenhof’ in the town of Lisse, located to the south of Amsterdam, has been one of the most popular destinations in the Netherlands for 60 years now. Here you can enjoy the ultimate spring feeling from March 21 through May 20. Why? Because De Keukenhof is the world’s flower park without compare. The park is more than its 7 million flowers, of which, of course, countless varieties of the famous tulip dominate. You will also find wonderful works of art, all kinds of inspirational gardens and some 20 (indoor) flower shows, like the famous lily and orchid shows. www.keukenhof.nl
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The story of
FROMANTEEL WATCHES. Fromanteel is named after a famed Dutch clockmaker from the 17th century who used to own a modest clockmakers workshop at the Dam Square in Amsterdam. ‘The Amsterdam’ watch is crafted to commemorate the place of birth of the brand and its namesake. On the champagnesilver finished dial the exact coordinates of the former workshop are displayed. A well thought understated designed watch, refined for the office, and sporty for weekends away. Its price? Not what you’d normally expect from a Swiss timepiece. More info: www.fromanteel-watches.com Price: € 379, -
MAX IMAA L HOUDBAAR TOT: 31 DEC 2014
KIDS
Amsterdam Marionette Theatre tAlKIng DollS wItH voIceS from HeAven The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre presents a unique form of theatre in the European tradition of the classical marionette. Puppeteers manipulate wooden actors – dolls dressed in silk and velvet costumes – while participating in various forms of music theatre. This year, ‘The Amazing Journey of Dr. Faust’ will be performed, a classical play full of humour and magic. The theatre provides a very special form of musical experience for both adults and children. The performances are presented in Dutch, with English texts provided. The visual and musical character of the performance means that the language is no great barrier, especially for the kids.
Artis The Partis A fAmouS but StrAnge InHAbItAnt of tHe Zoo The famous inhabitant and mascot of Amsterdam zoo Artis is ‘Artis de Partis’. Artis de Partis is not an animal, although he’s likely to disagree with that assertion. But he’s not a person either and he is certainly not a scientist who can explain serious facts about animals and plants. So what or who is he? Artis de Partis isn’t sure either. And that is exactly why he is in Artis. Would you like to meet Artis de Partis? Visit the Amsterdam Zoo. Artis is open every day of the year from 09:00 to 18:00. During the winter months (November through March) Artis is open until 17:00. www.artis.nl/en/artis-royal-zoo
The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre performs in its unique, small theatre on Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8 in the Nieuwmarkt area. Sometimes performances are held elsewhere, in opera houses and during festivals, for instance.
The History of Schoolbags PrActIcAl object AnD StAtuS Symbol Would you like to find out more about schoolbags and bags in general? Then a trip to the Museum of Bags and Purses is definitely worth some of your time. Wooden schoolbags dating from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries are on display, as well as leather book bags and the canvas satchels and nylon rucksacks, which are so popular today. The use, material and design of the schoolbag tell you a great deal about education and social developments. Schoolbags today, for instance, are more than practical objects; they are status symbols. The museum isn’t just about schoolbags, it is also about bags like the canvas army bag, which was originally used by American liberators during World War II. Or bags as a political statement: during the 60s people expressed their anger about society by personalising their bags with all kinds of stickers and slogans. And, of course, today’s designer bags can be found in the museum, too. www.museumofbagsandpurses.com (Special exhibition about the history of schoolbags from March 26 through September 15)
www.marionettetheatre.com
THE ELECTRIC TRAM MUSEUM
Board one of the historic electric trams and enjoy an hour ride on a beautiful and green tramline along the Amsterdam forest and the surrounding parks of Amstelveen, a town adjacent to Amsterdam. With other words: visit the Electric Tram Museum. Going back in time you will be travelling in trams built between 1904 and 1954, restored to full working condition by volunteers. The days to visit the tram museum are every Sunday from April through October. By visiting the museum you are helping to preserve this important cultural heritage. Haarlemmermeerstation – Amstelveenseweg 264; www.museumtramlijn.org
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what’s in store MOST LUXURIOUS RANGE OF DENIM PRODUCTS De Bijenkorf Premium Denim Department is women’s only and offers the most luxurious range of denim products in the Netherlands, resulting in an eclectic mix of classic and high fashion. To name just a few of the Premium Denim Department brands: 7 For All Man Kind, Acne, Citizens of Humanity, Current/Elliott, MET Jeans & Victoria Beckham Jeans. de Bijenkorf department store, Dam 1, Amsterdam
TRENDY IPHONE? TAKE A SLEEVE! Freitag introduces the Super Protection Sleeve, which fits like an old, familiar coat but protects your trendy iPhone like no other. The F28 Sleeve for iPhone ® 5 is available at a suggested retail price of ¤ 43. www.freitag.ch
LADIES’ FASHION... INCLUDES BAGS Van Ravenstein is all about the finest ladies’ fashion. New this season, are designers Haider Ackermann and Julien David. Maybe you would like to pay attention to a broad range of Balenciaga clothing and bags? The most popular bag this season is undoubtedly the Balenciaga Giant Mini City. www.van-ravenstein.nl
A SHARP LOOK ON THE GOLF COURSE For people who visit the golf course regularly, Adidas eyewear introduces the ideal golf glasses. The Tourpro integrates perfect vision in a stylish model. The Tourpro is available at selected opticians and sports shops from ¤ 148. www.adidas.com/eyewear
YOUR OWN BARTENDER Bols, founded in 1575, is the world’s oldest brand of distilled drinks. Bols is based in Amsterdam and offers a training facility for both professionals and amateurs who want to know more about becoming a perfect bartender who can make (shake...) the most exotic cocktails. www.bols.com
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A NECKLACE WITH A PART OF AMSTERDAM
WHATS IN STORE
A limited edition brass necklace reproduces a part of the map of Amsterdam, that is to say: exactly the part where gift shop Saskya & Co is situated, on the corner of Stromarkt and the Singel canal. www.saskyasouvenirs.nl
NUMBER 7 IS YOUR MAGICAL GIFT The number 7 has something magical for the founder of My7Ways, Astrid Beerkens. Beerkens designs special gifts based on the seven colours of the rainbow, gifts that are meant for both women and men. www.my7ways.com
JEWELLERY FROM ELEPHANT HAIR Over the decades, Albanu has acquired skills to combine precious metals with a range of natural materials such as elephant, giraffe and horsehair, buffalo horn, leather and... diamonds. All Albanu creations are handmade and totally in accordance with (wild) animal welfare. www.milldiamonds.com
COLOURFUL PRINTS FOR WOMEN AND MEN ‘People of the Labyrinths’ designed a fashion collection of colourful prints, for both women and men. The ‘POTL’ draw inspiration from across the globe to give you Bangladeshi blanket embroidery, leaf skeletons mixed with ‘Delft Blue’ (Dutch porcelain) and old American civil war flags. www.labyrinths.nl
NEW FASHION LABELS AT ‘DE BIJENKORF’ Visiting the Dutch premium department store ‘de Bijenkorf’ without having a look at the new Spring/Summer 2013 collection might not be a good idea! New fashion labels like T. by Alexander Wang, McQ Alexander McQueen and MM6 by Maison Martin Margiela have all been added to the women’s fashion range - as has the American fashion label 3.1 Phillip Lim. The new additions to the range of bags are Balenciaga, Valentino, Proenza Schouler, Jérôme Dreyfuss and Tila March. You could take in all the latest at... one single stop! de Bijenkorf department store, Dam 1, Amsterdam
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A glimpse behind the scenes
The Concertgebouw: 125 years at the top For 125 years now, the ConCertgebouw has treated audienCes to world-Class musiC and ViP reCePtion. all the glitter and glamour that is Part and ParCel oF Visiting a ConCert here is FantastiC, but none oF it would be Possible without the dediCation oF the PeoPle behind the sCenes.
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FEATURE
Text Lizet Deutekom Photography Lizet Deutekom, Concertgebouw
Page 20 & 21 The Concertgebouw in 2012. The glass extension, built for the 100-year jubilee in 1988, is now the main entrance. Page 23 top This is what the Concertgebouw looked like when it had just been completed in 1888. It was almost impossible to reach without getting muddy shoes, but Amsterdam finally had its much desired concert hall. Page 23 below The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra in the Main Hall in 1907.
“I’m
not going to wear this! Oh my God, what a building. Nothing that works and no one here to lend me his bow tie!” Speaking is the rather grumpy Graham Johnson, celebrated pianist, minutes before he is due to perform in the Recital Hall of the Concertgebouw. Before him stands Sebastiaan Landkroon, who at the time has already worked in the building as an usher for more than ten years. Landkroon is the man behind the scenes for every artist.
AbsolUTEly woRld-clAss The Concertgebouw is Amsterdam’s pride and glory when it comes to classical music. It was built in 1888, on a stretch of wasteland that was the very edge of town at the time. It was to be a concert hall of world status. On the initiative of six distinguished gentlemen who came up with the idea in 1881, this acoustic wonder of the world was completed in just seven years. This year, in 2013, that is 125 years ago.
It’s just one of the innumerable anecdotes reeled off when Landkroon, now 44 and with 21 years under his belt at the Concertgebouw, is asked about his memories of the past years in the building. In the end, he ran into the canteen of the Main Hall, where the brass section of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra was just having a break. One of the musicians was so kind as to give his bow tie. “It was an old, soiled rag of a thing, but at least I had arranged a bow tie. Thankfully, right at the last minute, Johnson’s manager turned up with a nice clean one. Otherwise the great Graham Johnson would have had to sit at his grand piano wearing a dirty rag. It would have been a disaster!”
Today, it’s not just the building that is renowned throughout the world. Perhaps its resident Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra is even more so. The orchestra has ranked among the world’s best for decades, as any lover of classical music will confirm to you. It has produced worldfamous conductors, such as Bernard Haitink, Riccardo Chailly and, more recently, Mariss Jansons. And worldclass guest conductors have always been very keen to direct the orchestra, too: Benjamin Britten, Herbert von Karajan, Igor Stravinsky, Jaap van Zweden...
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A FEsTivE yEAR Its 125th jubilee is obviously something that the Concertgebouw won’t allow to pass without appropriate festivities. Throughout the year, there will be special concerts
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Applause and flowers for the artists. And for Sebastiaan Landkroon - a little bit, anyway.
and even more special guests. It’s already renowned as a venue for music at the very highest level. However, in Amsterdam they’re adding a little something extra in 2013. You can expect classical music, but also jazz, world and pop music of the highest possible quality during two series of 12 jubilee concerts. Photography exhibitions and the special jubilee book Bravo! will give added splendour to the celebrations. On April 10, the ‘Jubilee of World-Class Stars’ will be held. You can expect performances by soloists Janine Jansen, Thomas Hampson and Lang Lang, accompanied by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra under the direction of chief conductor Mariss Jansons.
they say that. I simply make sure never to create problems. And everything is fine by me. If, for instance, someone suddenly wants something extra to be present on stage, I don’t get stressed about it. Or, if during a performance the lid of the grand piano has to come down a little, then I know how to do that. I make sure it’s done properly.“ FRom siDElinE To job Maybe Landkroon’s good-humoured attitude has something to do with the fact that he is more than capable of an in-depth chat about music with the artists, should the opportunity arise. When he started at the Concertgebouw, music was just a sideline for him. He was actually a fulltime student of biology, but he soon decided that this was the world he wanted to be in. He changed courses to music science and started to build up his repertoire knowledge. That course, however, wasn’t able to keep him away from the Concertgebouw either. “Forget it,” he thought. “I may be studying to get a job, but I already have a job and a different one isn’t going to make me any happier. I really love what I do!”
Calming down nervous performers
DonE pRopERly All these artists can count on the capable hands of Sebastiaan Landkroon to assist them when they perform at the Concertgebouw. He’s become acquainted with many of them in his time. His years of experience are of great value when it comes to calming down nervous performers. Many of them breathe a sigh of relief as soon as they see him again. “I don’t know exactly what it is I do, why
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A royAl touch Someone else who has worked at the Concertgebouw for a long time, much longer than Sebastiaan Landkroon, is Afra van den Berg. She’s been gracing the carpets here with her sister Gerda for 32 years. She makes the guests feel at home. Sometimes by taking people’s coats at the cloakroom, sometimes by pouring them a glass of champagne, sometimes… She hopes to continue doing her job for as long as possible. “The variation and the contact with guests make it all so enjoyable, even after all these years.” Afra is also the person who has for almost her whole career served the royal family whenever its members go to a concert. “I always receive them in the lobby and take their coats. The lady-in-waiting then often says, ‘I’m always so glad to see you again! When you’re here, I know that everything is going to work out fine.’ It’s so nice to hear her say that.” Unfortunately, Afra has never had a proper, meaningful conversation with the queen after all these years. “But you can with Princess Máxima. We sometimes
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walk down a corridor together and then we have a little chat. You do develop a special relationship with a person like that. They’re my royal friends, I always say.”
1. The atmosphere is very relaxed. When they hear the applause, Sebastiaan opens the door for Camilla.
Guided tour Tip: Take a guided tour! If you’re lucky, Sebastiaan Landkroon will be your dedicated and well-spoken guide.
2. Afra van den Berg, talking about Pricess Máxima: “We sometimes walk down a corridor together and then we have a little chat.”
Guided tour + concert Sunday morning package Every Sunday morning (except in July and August) from 11.00 am to 1.15 pm. Price: € 33 p.p. (including concert ticket)
3. After the concert, as people quietly file out of the auditorium, Sebastiaan gets the stage back in order.
Group bookings The Concertgebouw has a special booking department for groups that can advise and help you to organise your group excursion. Phone 020 - 5730573 or e-mail groups@concertgebouw.nl. You can also visit the website, www.concertgebouw.nl
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SHOPPING
Shopping
on the Utrechtsestraat A fine taste of Amsterdam Bustling with charm and creativity, the Utrechtsestraat leads from the city’s infamous nightlife centre Rembrandtplein, with all its bars, cafes and restaurants, over the bridges of Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht to Frederiksplein. The street has many stories to tell.
Text Constanze Fluhme Photography With thanks to contributors
For
more than 150 years, the Utrechtsestraat has been known as a shopping street, but the atmosphere was completely different back then. People simply sold from their homes; it wasn’t until the 1850s that any ‘real’ shops were built. If you are looking for remnants of that time, you can still find a few, like the splendid Jugendstil buildings on the corner of Keizersgracht. And the houses at numbers 94 and 96 (anno 1660) and 131 (anno 1667) take you even further back in time. If you walk into Prinsengracht you will soon arrive at the spacious Amstelveld with its unique wooden church. Handbag fans shouldn’t miss out on the Museum of Bags (‘Tassenmuseum Hendrikje’) and if you fancy a walk, wander along the Amstel river with its famous bridge 26 I Rush on Amsterdam
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Small and big spenders alike will find something nice here
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1. Pick up your frozen yoghurt on a warm summer day: Frozz. 2. Skin Perfume by Ariane Inden. 3. We love the candy coloured bags from Marc by Marc Jacobs at Centre Neuf.
(Magere Brug) and the Hermitage Amsterdam. The Utrechtsestraat street caters for every need! A shopping queen, a businessman, a city hopper: whoever you are, you will love it!
Frozz Utrechtsestraat 27 Treat yourself to a frozen yoghurt to start with. The big secret of Frozz: its 100% natural, fresh, low-fat yoghurt from Dutch cows from Brabant (southern Netherlands) and a little pinch of sugar. Frozz goes fresh from the freezer into the bowl and then you make your choice of yummy toppings, like fresh fruit (hand-chopped daily, of course) and any kind of funky crunchiness, like roast almonds, or pistachios. Pure self-indulgence!
AriAne inden Utrechtsestraat 127 When you enter the Ariane Inden shop, you will immediately want to try out all kinds of skincare products, perfumes and make-up. It is a very strong cosmetic 28 I Rush on Amsterdam
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brand! No unnecessary packaging. No unnecessary pollution. the products haven’t been tested on animals and don’t contain animal ingredients. Ariane Inden wants to be different and that is why this shop has created products for 32 types of skin. All the products have a lovely scent, but there is also a choice of nonperfumed products without colouring agents. You are always welcome for a free skin analysis, or make-up advice.
Centre neuF Utrechtsestraat 139 HS Centre Neuf is a shop that will make you feel at home. The 70s entourage of this spacious place and its very professional sales team makes people take their time. Marc by Marc Jacobs, Acne, Athé by Vannesa Bruno, Jil Sander Navy, Aaiko, Iro, Tiger of Sweden, Won Hundred, Yarn Unit, Avril Gau, Dante 6, Panpuri… You will find it all at Centre Neuf, the complete works, from shoes to bags to clothing to skincare. Mix and match and you’ll look amazing. Spring 2013
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Utrechtsestraat: an allround shopping experience
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Van SoeSt amSterdam ChoColatier Utrechtsestraat 143 You’ll want to bathe in chocolate when you enter this shop, purely because of the mouth-watering smell. And then, of course, the handmade chocolates and sweets: pure, milk, white, filled or not, the choice is yours. A little paradise for chocoholics. You needn’t ask - the recipes are all secret and only the freshest and best ingredients are worthy of being used. Also nice: 12 different sorts of Italian ice cream.
romeyn tailorS Utrechtsestraat 145/147 This is a shop for the real gentleman! Quality fashion spread across three floors. The ground floor features casual wear, the first floor houses suits and sports jackets and the second floor caters for those who prefer tailor-made suits. The large antique cabinets and fabric-tables date back to the first years of the place and the first floor has a cosy espresso-department with a nice view of the Utrechtsestraat. Romeyn has been Spring 2013
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around since 1898 and has garnered the special predicate ‘Supplier to the Crown’ at Royal bequest. Can you afford not to own a suit from Romeyn Tailors?
1. A handmade treat: Van Soest Chocolatier.
Café ooSterling
diamond 3. 18 carat rose gold ring with staggered necklace
Utrechtsestraat 140 This is a real ‘brown pub’, a 104-year-old pub that evokes the atmosphere of the days and stories of Simon Carmiggelt. Café Oosterling is a nostalgic and welcoming bar and has a very laidback atmosphere. It has been owned by the same family for four generations and it is one of only a few bar-shops left in the country, where you can walk in to buy a bottle of wine or spirits as well as sit down for a drink. Obviously, the pub stocks a selection of typically Dutch ‘jenevers’.
2. Looksgirlfriend like even Your doggies are welcome at will love this MaisonNL.
little diamonds by Marije Buffing. 4. At Romeyn Taylors a gentleman finds what a gentleman needs!
marije Buffing Utrechtsestraat 108 Taking home something special that will always remind you of your trip? Try the jewellery studio of goldsmith Marije Buffing, where she creates every Rush on Amsterdam I 29
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1. Make your stay in Amsterdam unforgettable: buy her a romantic gift at Salon de Lingerie. 2. Don’t leave Amsterdam without tasting cheese at Kaashuis Tromp.
single piece you see herself. The collection consists mainly of modern jewellery and Marije will be more than happy to design and fashion a unique piece just for you. Definitely worth a visit!
MaisonnL Utrechtsestraat 118 Although MaisonNL is not large, you will find a flabbergasting variety of interior accessories and furniture here, as well as a small collection of fashion items. Even jewellery can be found spread out in intriguing cabinets throughout the shop. Here’s an insider tip: look out for some of the unique vintage items. The personnel are extremely friendly and if you are lucky, a sweet, brown Labrador will welcome you as you go inside.
Kaashuis TroMp Utrechtsestraat 90 A visit to Amsterdam is not complete without a visit to a real cheese shop. Kaashuis Tromp offers you a 30 I Rush on Amsterdam
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huge selection of Dutch and European cheeses, wines and freshly made bread. The shop emanates “gezelligheid”- which is one of the favourite words in the Dutch language, translating into many things, but ‘cosiness’ generally fills the bill. Once you have made your personal cheese selection, you can take it out or ask to have it forwarded to your home!
We are LabeLs Utrechtsestraat 68 and
anoTher LabeLs Utrechtsestraat 36 ‘We Are Labels’ Amsterdam and its little (but more spacious) sister ‘Another Labels’ are exclusive boutiques that sell a select number of fashion brands, which you won’t be able to find anywhere else in the city. Find brands like Tokyo Jane, Dutch dresses from Lily’s Closet, or make a special fashion statement with the handmade military jackets by Japanese designer Ranponski. Besides clothes, you will also find a modest but Spring 2013
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fine collection of shoes, hats, handbags and jewellery. Small and big spenders alike will find something nice here!
addreSSeS:
ConCerto
Ariane Inden
Utrechtsestraat 52-60 Concerto is an institution. A world-class shop, nostalgic, yet ahead of its time. It is a hot spot for music lovers thanks to its enormous collection of new and secondhand CD’s, LP’s and DVD’s embracing pop, jazz, classical, dance, ethnic and many more styles. A place that music lovers free up time for. A place to find that rare and elusive CD or LP that you can’t find anywhere else.
Salon de lingerie Utrechtsestraat 38 Salon de Lingerie is the place to round off your shopping tour. The intimate atmosphere makes lingerie shopping a true experience! Or you might look for the perfect beach outfit to show off in Bloemendaal aan Zee, a well-known seaside resort. You’ll find it all! Spring 2013
Frozz www.frozz.com
T: 020 4220426
www.arianeinden. com/shop Centre Neuf T: 020 5285040 www.centreneuf.com
1. It’s really cosy at We Are Labels Amsterdam.
Café Oosterling T: 020 6234140 www.kroegenweb.nl: Oosterling
Concerto T: 020 6235228 www.platomania.eu
Marije Buffing T: 020 6266255 www.marijebuffing.nl
Salon de Lingerie T: 020 6239857 www.salondelingerie. nl
MaisonNL T: 020 4285183 facebook.com: Maison
Another labels T: 020 4276668 www.wearelabels.com
Van Soest Chocolatier T: 020 6208025 www.vansoestamsterdam.nl
Kaashuis Tromp T: 020 6241399 www.kaashuistromp.nl
Romeyn Tailors T: 020 6268000 www.romeyntailors.nl
We are labels T: 020 6249493 www.wearelabels.com
2. We can’t do without that hat from Another Labels. 3. Another label? No, Anothers Labels!
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De Tafel van Twaalfhoven Dutch design at its best www.tafelvantwaalfhoven.nl T 0031 (0) 6 263 469 42
Birkenstock Store You can find the biggest choice of sandals, slippers, clogs and collectors items specially made for the Birkenstock Store Amsterdam here.
The Birkenstock Store Amsterdam 1e Constantijn Huygenstraat 76 and Westermarkt 19 T. (020) 689 1267
All Rembrandt’s works on display
Magna Plaza: Cultural Indoor Shopping Right behind the Royal Palace on the dam – the tRaditional heaRt of amsteRdam – you will find an exclusive and most attRactive indooR shoPPing centRe. as its name suggests, magna Plaza sets itself aPaRt fRom the otheR well-known shoPPing stReets in town, like the kalveRstRaat and the fashionable P.c. hooftstRaat.
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FEATURE
Page 34 & 35 Magna Plaza’s façade makes quite an impression. Page 36 1. The monumental nature of the building goes hand in hand with the dynamics of a shopping centre with style. 2. ‘Danaë’ (1636) is Rembrandt's painting that resides in the Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg, Russia. It is a life-sized depiction of the character Danaë from Greek mythology, the mother of Perseus. She is presumably depicted as welcoming Zeus, who impregnated her in the form of a shower of gold. Given that this is one of Rembrandt's most magnificent paintings, it is not out of the question that he cherished it, but it also may have been difficult to sell because of its eightby-ten-foot size. 3. All 325 paintings by the old Dutch master Rembrandt have been chronologically brought together in one location: the basement of shopping centre Magna Plaza. Cultural indoor shopping, a new phenomenon!
Text Henry Salman Photography Magna Plaza
Visitors
to Magna Plaza can wander from one shop to the next in an atmosphere that is always welcoming and delightful. It is a place where the capricious Dutch climate can be forgotten and where the hectic traffic that dominates all large cities is kept out. Behind the antique doors of this former post office, only the gentle zoom of the escalators and chitchat of fellow shoppers disturb the peace. The broad walkways are a delight to wander along; the soft, yellow light beneath the historical arcades instils a feeling of luxurious wellbeing. The bright blue that emanates from mega music store Fame provides contrast that is as seductive as it is sharp. Swarovski, Coccinelle and Toni&Guy add style to the quality of shopping and shops in this majestic brandstore that is Magna Plaza. Fancy a nice cup of coffee? A wholesome sandwich? Some apple pie as only the Dutch can bake it? It’s all here, under one roof. GUEsT is GUEsT oF honoUR After its first 20 years, Magna Plaza was given a refreshing commercial facelift in 2012, subtly bringing together culture and shopping in the majestic building on the intersection of Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, Raadhuisstraat
36 I Rush on Amsterdam
and Spuistraat. In addition, the building’s accessibility and attractiveness have been further increased. In other words, guests are becoming guests of honour, which sums up, in a nutshell, Magna Plaza’s ambition. RE:mbRAndT All his pAinTinGs At the start of 2013, Re:mbrandt All his paintings took up residence in Magna Plaza’s basement. This retrospective exhibition brings together all 325 paintings of the world-famous Dutch master in one location. It’s a permanent exhibition, though it has to be said that it is not an exhibition of the great man’s original works. Instead you will be treated to beautiful, digitally ‘restored’, fullsize reproductions and as such, they come astonishingly close to the originals in their affection. GET To know ThE old mAsTER The paintings have been hung chronologically, so that visitors can experience for themselves the unbelievable developments Rembrandt underwent as an artist. Explanatory texts accompanying the works help the visitor recognise and understand these developments. Re:mbrandt All his paintings has been compiled by Professor Ernst van de Wetering, highly respected Rembrandt specialist and head of the prestigious Rembrandt
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FEATURE
Once a post office, now an internationally known shopping centre.
Research Project. Many of the originals, incidentally, can be found in the Rijksmuseum, other important museums in town and at the Rembrandthuis on Jodenbreestraat. MoRE bEAUTy And FAshion With the exhibition, the basement has become part of the building as a whole - both culturally and commercially - more than it ever was before. It was an attractive option, according to Hans Ruijssenaars, the architect in charge. Magna Plaza has also made its large entrance even more accessible, the number of shops has been increased and there is more emphasis on beauty-related shops. Fashion, in the broadest sense of the word, features generously throughout the building. Now, after the 2012 renovation, the more than 2.5 million annual visitors can enjoy even more jewellery, music and entertainment at the indoor shopping centre of Amsterdam.
fice at the end of the 1980s, international property developers lost no time making plans to turn the monumental building into a luxury shopping centre. The large edifice and its central location were ideal. The same architect mentioned earlier, Ruijssenaars, transformed the former Head Post Office into a chic and stylish place to shop, all within the strict monumental laws and guidelines that apply in the Netherlands. The brand new Magna Plaza opened its doors in 1992. CERTAinly noT wiThoUT sTylE The building itself was designed by the then government architect Cornelis (C.H.) Peters and was built between 1895 and 1899. Peters, a disciple of the famed Pierre (P.H.) Cuypers, the architect who designed, among others, the Rijksmuseum and Central Station in Amsterdam, was inspired by various styles, which he combined in a very skilful and artistic manner. He had a specific preference for the incorporation of neo-gothic and neo-renaissance elements, elements that, due to the fact that post offices were being erected everywhere, were often called post-office gothic.
A chic and stylish place to shop
MonUMEnT TRAnsFoRMEd When the national post, telegram and telegraph company (PTT) decided that it wanted to move out of its head of-
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It’s not for nothing that UNESCO ranks this Dutch monument very highly on its heritage list. ´Pear Burg` The brick exterior of the building has been richly decorated with an abundance of lavish stone ornaments. The frames of the windows and doors, too, are splendidly finished and a large number of dormers grace the roof, each with its own little stepped gable. Due to the pear-shaped tower crowns with openwork spires, Amsterdamers soon started calling the building 'Pear Burg'. InterIor comPletely strIPPed The public function of the former head post office was limited to the large central hall. The two floors of galleries and arcades were the domain of PTT employees only. Until 1990 that is, when a design was put forward for the transformation into an elegant and chic shopping centre. Conservation and optimal use of space were central principles to this design, and when it was approved, work commenced in February 1991. Not much was done to the outside of the building. It just needed some cleaning, restoration and repair work. Inside, however, every-
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thing except for the supporting elements and decorations was stripped. To the right of the central skylight an already existing but long disused skylight was enlarged and brought into view. On the left, a new one was placed. The huge empty space that was created in this way means that you can now see right down into the basement from the second floor. Quite a sight.
1. Magna Plaza photographed from the ground floor. 2. Rainy Amsterdam? You know where to go. 3. The varied choice of shops is one of the things that makes Magna Plaza so attractive.
VIsItors sPoIled Unexpected structural flaws and shortcomings delayed progress. A number of the original foundations had to be replaced, for instance, and it was discovered that some of the columns were hollow. It seems they watched their pennies at the end of the 19th century, too. The galleries were made suitable to be used as shops and, of course, the future visitors were spoiled with escalators and lifts. The existing staircases still remain in the building, incidentally, two in use as emergency stairs and one for use by the public. In the meantime, various high-end shopping chains were approached with the proposal to rent the beautifully renovated galleries. The building opened its doors in August 1992. Exclusive shopping centre Magna Plaza was a fact!
Rush on Amsterdam I 39
City Map
Do you WAnT To GeT A FiRST hAnD iMpReSSion oF The FAMouS ‘cAnAL RinG’ oF AMSTeRDAM? Do you WAnT To knoW WheRe To FinD youR FAvouRiTe iTeMS, pRoviDeD By ouR ADveRTiSeRS? oR WouLD you Like To Go onLine To See Which cAnAL you ARe LookinG AT? Then FiRST TAke A Look AT ouR ciTy MAp on The nexT pAGeS oR Go To ouR ciTy MAp onLine: WWW.RuSh.nL/ciTyMAp.hTML FoR youR SMARTphone:
www.rush.nl/citymap.html
40 I Rush on Amsterdam
1. Senza - Luxury fashion - Address: Rokin 82 - www.sensaz.com - See p. 2 in this magazine
7. Birkenstock - Sandals, slippers, clogs, collectors’ items - Address: 1e Constantijn Huygenstraat 76 - www.birkenstockstore.nl - See p. 32 in this magazine
2. Artis - Royal Amsterdam Zoo - Address: Plantage Kerklaan 40 - www.artis.nl - See p. 3 in this magazine
8. Secrid - Wallets - Address: Haarlemmerstraat 27 (‘Daskas’) (‘Daskas’) - www.secrid.com - See p. 33 in this magazine
3. Little Buddha - Restaurant/sushi bar & lounge - Address: Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 17 - www.littlebuddhaamsterdam.com - See p. 13 in this magazine
9. Megazino - Italian luxury outlet fashion store - Address: Rozengracht 207-213 - www.megazino.nl - See p. 45 in this magazine
4. Fromanteel Watches - Refined watches - Address: Huidenstraat 19 (‘Relaxed at Home’) - www.fromanteel-watches.com - See p. 16 in this magazine
10. Scooter Rent Amsterdam - Scooter rent - Address: 3e Hugo de Grootstraat 2 - www.scooter-rent-amsterdam.com - See p. 45 in this magazine
5. Baut - Restaurant-bar - Address: Wibautstraat 125 - www.bautamsterdam.nl - See p. 16 in this magazine
11. G & G - Extra tall and large-sized men’s clothing - Address: Prinsengrachr 514 - www.ggspecialsizes.com - See p. 45 in this magazine
6. Tafel van Twaalfhoven - Dutch design tables - Address: city of Alkmaar, not Amsterdam - www.tafelvantwaalfhoven.nl - See p. 32 in this magazine
12. Lovelyladies - Girls’ directory - Web address, no visiting address - www.lovelyladies.nl - See p. 77 in this magazine
Spring 2013
13. Beurs van Berlage - Venue for events - Address: Damrak 243 - www.beursvanberlage.nl - See p. 81 in this magazine
21. Bubbles & Wines - Wine & champagne bar - Address: Nes 37 - www.bubblesandwines.com - See p. 63 in this magazine
14. Hoogstins - Luxury gifts - Address: Kinkerstraat 71 - www.luxecadeautjes.nl - See p. 44 in this magazine
22. Pont 13 - European restaurant - Address: Haparandadam 50 - www.pont13.nl - See p. 63 in this magazine
15. de Bijenkorf - Luxury department store - Address: Dam 1 - www.debijenkorf.nl - See p. 84 in this magazine (= last page)
23. Mappa - Italian restaurant - Address: Nes 59 - www.mappa.nl - See p. 63 in this magazine
16. Syriana - Syrian-Lebanese restaurant - Address: Akersluis 8 - www.syriana.nl - See p. 61 in this magazine
24. L’invite - French restaurant - Bloemgracht 47 - www.linviterestaurant.nl - See p. 63 in this magazine
17. BIHP - Food and drinks & art - Address: Keizersgracht 335 - www.bridgesrestaurant.nl - See p. 61 in this magazine
25. Otumm - Watches delivered to a given (hotel) address - Web address, no visiting address - www.otumm.nl - See p. 83 in this magazine
18. Bridges - Fresh fish and seafood restaurant - Address: Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 - www.bridgesrestaurant.nl - See p. 61 in this magazine
26. EUhuntings.com - Hunting arrangements in Eastern Europe - Web address, no visiting address - www.euhuntings.com - See p. 76 in this magazine
19. Supperclub - Mix of food, music, performance and art - Address: Jonge Roelensteeg 21 - www.supperclub.com - See p. 61 in this magazine
27. EUtraveling.com - Traveling agency for Eastern Europe - Web address, no visiting address - www.eutraveling.com - See p. 76 in this magazine
20. NEVY - Fish restaurant - Address: Westerdoksdijk 40 - www.nevy.nl - See p. 61 in this magazine
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G&G SPECIAL SIZES THE SPECIALIST IN EXTRA TALL AND LARGE-SIZED MEN’S CLOTHING.
Bugatti Polo Ralph Lauren Pierre Cardin
Closed on Monday Tax free. All major credit cards accepted
Gardeur Camel Paul & Shark
Prinsengracht 514 1017 KJ Amsterdam T. 020 - 622 63 39 www.ggspecialsizes.com
You can park your car at only 80 meters away, at our expense
Amsterdam is much older than we thought
A Metro Line is More than Tunnelling
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it is perfectly logical that the construction of a new metro line in amsterdam is carried out in a completely different way than in athens, for example, where the metro carves its way though solid rock. a fascinating difference is that – apart from the historical layers of time – the soft ground offers better chances of finding relics of the past. and with them, stories.
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FEATURE
Text & Photography Henry Salman
Page 46 & 47 Some trams are clearly visible in front of Amsterdam Central Station. In 2017, they will feel the competition of the North to South metro line. (Photo: Paul Deelman) Page 49 The M for metro, a work of art by Frank Mandersloot, marks the entrance to the underground view point on the Rokin.
In
an ideal world, you’d first construct an underground rail infrastructure and only then commence building a city. Alas, technology, population growth, mobility and people’s needs have a completely different order of urgency. ‘Alas’, because the underground construction of the metro line is an exceptionally expensive and complicated project. Just avoiding all the obstacles requires extreme precision. And everything that has been constructed above the ground has to survive the construction work without being damaged, too. Even then – as if that wasn’t enough – for years the local population and visitors to the city are confronted by the ghastly sight of the building sites. SpEcTAcUlAR pRojEcT The Netherlands’ greatest football prophet, Johan Cruijff, once noted that ‘every disadvantage has its advantage’. It’s true of the current construction of the metro line, too. There are certainly positives. The excavation finds - for instance, the relics found in various layers of ground paint an interesting picture of the city’s past. Another prize is to see and to experience how 21st century technology seems to effortlessly dig its way beneath the busy bustle of city life. In this sense, the North-South Line isn’t just the name of a couple of tunnels through which underground trains will soon shuttle passengers between
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Amsterdam North and Amsterdam South. It will be the embodiment of an ambitious technical, spectacular and modern project, cutting travel times by just as many quarters of an hour per hour as the number of passengers traversing the ground. pRESTigE oF ThE ciTy If the Netherlands hosts the 2028 Olympic Games, as many Dutch sport-loving authorities envisage, then fast infrastructural connections will significantly increase the city’s standing. And they’re necessary, because like any self-respecting city, Amsterdam’s suburbs are becoming crowded. Further growth means that suburbs are going to be geographically further away from the old heart of the city. Shorter travel times, therefore, will be crucial. Today, cyclists living in North can only reach the inner city by using the ferries to cross the IJ River. The lucky ones with cars can use the IJ Tunnel. But once through it, the luck of those same motorists runs out. Parking in the city centre is difficult and is being made even more difficult by the car-discouragement policies of the Amsterdam city council. METRo viSiToR cEnTRE When it was decided to connect the North to the rest of the city, it was decided to do the job properly and build
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1. Sieving the sludge dug up out of the ground yielded countless colourful shards, which will be used in historical mosaics in the new metro stations. 2. The ground is so soft that some pots and jugs have been found whole. 3. Between 'red' is the 'yellow' of the construction of an exceptionally expensive and complicated metro line.
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the line all the way to Amsterdam South with several stops along the way, including one at Amsterdam Central Station. As a consequence, ever since construction started in 2002, the city has been the backdrop for largescale construction activities, more than half of which take place out of sight. Although, not entirely. Visitors to the city who would like to take a look underground can go the Metro Visitor Centre on the Rokin. The entrance is opposite the famous Hajenius Cigar House and can be recognised by a large, artistic, red M. There are guided tours six days a week between 13:00 and 18:00. For reservations and further information, please go to the information centre at Stationsplein 7, or phone them on 020-3445070.
city, was a whole lot more than water alone. It was also a dump. Beneath the Rokin, for instance, archaeologists found high concentrations of horn-cores, which means that a lot of offal was dumped in the river there. A little further along there was a sugar refinery. And the find of a higher than average number of clay pipe heads betrays the spot where people used to wait - the embarkation point for the ferry. Approximately 700,000 pieces of history have been found, of which just 3 percent actually tell a whole story. Fragments of stories, just like the countless shards and pieces of finds, have to be glued and pieced together.
700,000 pieces of history have been found
digging wiTh cARE Digging is one thing, digging with care is something completely different and in the capable hands of Amsterdam’s archaeologists. According to them, the finds are intriguing and tell new stories about historical Amsterdam. The Amstel River, which used to dissect the
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mUch oldER ThAn AssUmEd One astonishing conclusion that can be drawn from a number of the finds is that Amsterdam didn’t first see human habitation around the year 1200, as was until recently thought, but was in actual fact a settlement as early as 2600 years before Christ. According to the archaeologists, the bronze spearhead (see photograph), which was sieved out of the dug-up sludge, dates back to around 1500 B.C. Most of the finds, fragments and
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shards, however, are 19th century – a century of great interest, as its course was dominated by the annexation of Holland into Napoleon Bonaparte’s French Empire. PUPPET-King LoUis At the start of the 19th century, on June 23rd 1806, to be exact, Amsterdam was proclaimed capital of the Kingdom of Holland by Napoleon’s brother, Louis Bonaparte, who reigned over the lowlands on the North Sea coast for four years. PuppetKing Louis controlled the country from what was then Amsterdam’s town hall (designed by master builder Jacob van Campen and completed in 1655) and is now the Royal Palace on Dam Square. But apart from initiating the construction of the Rijksmuseum, very little happened under Louis’ rule. Two other years are of particular interest with respect to the flourishing of Amsterdam: 1824, the year the North Sea Canal was opened and 1889, when Central Station greeted its first passengers.
DEcoRATivE mosAics oF shARDs The countless shards and other colourful attributes that are being unearthed as a result of the construction work are taken to the heritage lab at the University of Amsterdam, where each find is labelled and where possible restored. In early 2012, the Allard Pierson Museum on the Turfmarkt, the university’s archaeological museum, showcased the progress that had been made thus far in a photographic exhibition. There are currently plans to exhibit the more interesting, complete artefacts at Amsterdam Museum (formerly the Amsterdam Historical museum). The remainder will be used to decorate the walls beside the escalators in the metro stations. The idea is that the objects found, like the passengers going down into the ground, will be returned to where for centuries they laid.
Left The Allard Pierson Museum on the Turfmarkt is the archaeological centre of historic Amsterdam. Right The construction workers have their own way of decorating the building sites.
A higher than average number of clay pipe heads
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A little gem: the spearhead dating from approximately 1500 B.C.
As things currently stand, the first train will hurtle from North to South and back again in 2017.
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Amsterdam
Amsterdam is... ‘Venice of the North’.
Amsterdam in a nutshell? Is this possible? Yes, it can be done. Here are some tasty ingredients..
7,000 jewels Amsterdam boasts Europe’s largest historic city centre. More than 7,000 monumental buildings dating from various periods are right there to be marvelled at. And best of all, most of these architectural jewels stand within the circle of canals, so you can take them in during a leisurely walk. Four cIrcles oF cAnAls Each time Amsterdam started to outgrow its jacket, another circle of canals was built. There are now four such circles, each with a name reflecting the glorious Amsterdam of the Golden Age: Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht. And almost every single house along them looks like it’s escaped from a museum. AmsterdAm jordAAn The Jordan (Dutch: Jordaan) isn’t just a river in the Middle East. It is also a neighbourhood in Amsterdam, right at the foot of the celebrated Westertoren (Wester Tower).
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It used to be an area populated by craftsmen, as the street names like Brouwersgracht (Brewers’ Canal) and Looiersgracht (Tanners’ Canal) still testify. Now you’ll find lots of nice little shops and cosy bars and sunny terraces there. rebels Are born Is there any truth in it? Amsterdamers have the name of being insolent, stubborn and a touch rebellious. You see it in local politics: Amsterdamers take participation and objection for granted. Are Amsterdamers difficult? Let’s just say that they hate an authoritarian style of government. Confront them with that and rebels will spontaneously be born. AdIeu sAIlors! The Schreierstoren is a half-round, 15th century tower, which used to be part of the city’s defences. It is said that the sailors’ wives used to see off their husbands here. ‘Schreien’ is the old Dutch word for crying. How suitable can a name be? A ‘brown cAFé’: tYpIcAllY dutcH! Are the walls clad with timber and beer adverts, does it smell of years and years of tobacco smoke and does the
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landlord serve coffee and hot chocolate as well as beer and ‘jenever’? Then you’re more than likely in a brown café. There are usually only a handful of customers, but that’s because a brown café is generally no bigger than a front room. Brown cafés feel like home and you’ll find lots of them in the city centre and the Jordaan. NorwegiaN priNce Long, long ago – in around 1200 – a Norwegian prince in the company of his dog and a fisherman landed his unsound little boat on the banks of the IJ River. Could it be true that he founded Amsterdam? It is a nice legend, which is portrayed on a plaque on the house at Prinsengracht 235. Amsterdam didn’t gain city rights until 1306. ‘amstel palace’ We can be much more certain about the tale of Gijsbrecht van Amstel. He built a castle where the rivers Amstel and IJ met. How certain is certain? Its exact location is unknown to this day...
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Façade variatioNs One of the best ways of admiring the rich variation in façades on the houses along the canals is by taking one of the many boat trips. Many of the types of façade have their own names, like Dutch gable and crow-stepped gable. Whatever their names, they best reflect the glory of old Amsterdam. If you prefer cycling, then that’s another good way to see the circle of canals and the added advantage is that you can get off and take your time to take photographs, or shoot a film.
1. This is what the Dutch call ‘a brown café’? Why? Well, why not pay a visit? 2. Are Amsterdamers difficult? Let’s just say they hate an authoritarian style of government. 3. Ornate gables: you can find them everywhere in the city centre.
thiNgs to do, places to see Amsterdam is so much more than the Rijksmuseum. There are some 50 museums with all manner of themes. More information about the museums and other (tourist) attractions can be found at the IAmsterdam tourist information centre opposite Central Station. They also have a presence in the arrivals hall at Schiphol Airport and you’re sure to find their website, www.iamsterdam. com, to be very informative. www.iamsterdam.com The best way to get around is... the bike.
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Hajenius, the most beautiful cigar house in the world
"It’s good to be back home!"
He returns eacH year, tHe sturdy, amiable american. and not witHout reason. For even on tHe tHresHold oF His visit He breatHes in tHe warm Hajenius deligHt deep into His broad torso. He closes His eyes, stretcHes His arms out wide and witH a sigH tHat says it all, He makes it clear tHat He’s arrived: ´it’s good to be back Home!`
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Text Henry Salman Photography Henry Salman et al.
Page 54 & 55 The façade of Cigar House Hajenius on the Rokin. Page 57 The counter of the shop.
Familiar
as he is with the place, he makes a beeline for the climate chamber, where a carefully maintained balance of temperature and humidity keeps the cigars in prime condition. He chooses his cigar, an exquisite Grand Finale from Hajenius’ own brand, and makes his way to the smoking lounge with its smoke stained walls and timberwork. HomEly FEEling Leather chairs offer customers the opportunity to relax in comfort. He holds his cigar above the cedar wood fuelled flame and the soft pleasure of its smoke gently teases his taste buds. He feels content, he feels at home. Halfway along the Rokin between Dam and Munt Squares is where you can taste the atmosphere and rich history of Hajenius. It is undisputedly and without exaggeration the most beautiful - though not the largest - cigar house in the world. As any connoisseur will testify, if you don’t know the house of Hajenius, you know nothing about cigars. Now who would want to be told that? Every corner of the shop’s stunning neo-romantic interior exudes tradition. The chandeliers are centuries old and have endured two moves as the business grew out of previous premises. The last time was in 1915, when the shop moved from the impressive corner building on Dam Square that now houses Madame Tussauds to its current address, Rokin 92-96.
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All kinds oF (sTRAngE) visiToRs Obviously, Hajenius has many regular customers. One of them comes in each day for his daily 90-eurocent cigar and a chat. Another is a 96-year-old gentleman who regularly purchases a box of cigars and then, clearly indulging in great delight, studies the warning ‘Smokers die younger’ before opening it and lighting one up. Hajenius receives between 50 and 60 thousand visitors annually. Many of them are visitors to the city who take part in the walking tour ‘Mee in Mokum’. A wellinformed guide leads them through the old city, known affectionately as ‘Mokum’ to the locals, and treats them to a great number of interesting tales and marvellous sights. A visit to Hajenius is part of the package. A cigAR dEsERvEs TimE! Just as a visitor to a museum needn’t be an artist, the current manager of the shop, Ernst Wilmering, doesn’t expect visitors to his cigar house to be cigar smokers. On the contrary, all comers are welcome. And he’s proud of it. He, too, had been touched by the huge interest from all over the world in his renowned shop. ”And people don’t have to suddenly start whispering when they come in,” he says with a broad smile. But he understands. Stepping inside, one can easily be overawed by an atmosphere that feels almost consecrated, saturated by the soft, sweet wafts of delightful tobacco
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Left A incredible choice at Hajenius Cigar House. Right The ideal atmosphere in which to smoke a cigar.
melanges. An atmosphere, of course, perfectly suited to smoking cigars. For a cigar deserves time, as the Hajenius motto dictates. YEs, Also FoR YoUngER pEoplE The shop isn’t just frequented by old men. Increasingly, young people from the age of about 20 have come to appreciate the Burgundian lifestyle associated with the cigar, especially in combination with pleasures of the alcoholic variety. Hajenius understands this and organises courses.
spEciAl loUngEs FoR cigARs ¤ 48 EAch Italian marble, stunning ornaments and colossal chandeliers dating back to the time when Amsterdam was lit by gas, frame the splendid art-deco interior of the cigar house. The shop has various special lounges and rooms. The sales area, obviously, is at the front. ”We have to earn a living like everybody else,” offers Wilmering without being prompted. There’s a special room where the more expensive cigars, some as much as € 48 each, are kept under ideal temperature and humidity conditions in order to preserve their original aroma.
Enjoying life is an art
Enjoying life is an art, something, which must be learned. Certainly when a cigar and a fine glass of port or whisky take centre stage. Some 560 students a year hear and see a lecture and PowerPoint presentation about enjoying a cigar to the max. About the short filler, the dry, Dutch cigar made from sliced tobacco. Or about the handmade, South American long filler, made from whole tobacco leaves. Students are taken by the hand into the land of port or whisky, but the focus is always on their combination with the taste of tobacco.
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Another space in the building houses the museum with its large collection of images from the time the Dutch East India Company put Amsterdam on the map. Images of ship loads of tobacco and the many tobacco warehouses located on the Nes, now famous for its theatres, are just a stone’s throw from today’s Hajenius Cigar House.
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South KoreanS for hiddinK Visitors can enjoy the cigar of their choice in the smoking lounge. Its furnishings reflect Hajenius’ maxim: a cigar deserves time. One of its walls is adorned by some 30 cases, each containing the cigars smoked by famous people from the Netherlands and the rest of the world. Many South Korean visitors, for instance, stop in at Hajenius in order to marvel at the humidor containing cigars smoked by one of their football heroes, Guus Hiddink. A humidor, incidentally, is a case, often made of expensive wood and beautifully decorated, containing a humidifier. Hajenius Grand Finale cigars, for instance, require a relative humidity of just over 70% if they are to be enjoyed to their maximum potential. BrowSe, purchaSe, SmoKe and learn Visitors to Hajenius are welcome to browse, purchase and smoke at their leisure. But they are free to ask any questions they may have, too. The staff at Hajenius are decidedly hospitable and possess a vast knowledge of everything to do with cigars. Visitors may even gently and tenderly feel the cigars, in order to learn to find and recognise superior quality. For Hajenius recommends
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that one refrains from smoking cigars that are too dry – too sharp in flavour. And using candles or petroleum lighters to light up should be avoided, too, as they can alter the taste of the noble cigar significantly. Don’t smoke your cigar too quickly and play with the smoke in your mouth. Also, keep the ash on your cigar long; it has a cooling effect, improving the taste even further. Hajenius range of pipes and pipe tobaccos, too, by the way, is unrivalled anywhere in the world.
The rich history of Hajenius can be experienced in the museum.
noSe for quality and... Although American visitors to Hajenius Cigar House like to leave the shop with a broad selection of the Cuban cigars they cannot get in the States, the Dutch cigar in particular receives much interest. That’s because the Dutch cigar is borne out of two typically Dutch characteristics: a nose for quality and business acumen. And they are also the typical characteristics, which make a visit to Hajenius more than worthwhile!
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HIP & HOT
VOOGES SYriaNa
biHP
bridGES Sofitel Legend The Grand amsterdam
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Hip & Hot SYRIANA RestauRant
Akersluis 8 T. 020 - 669 09 33 www.syriana.nl info@syriana.nl Syriana, a restaurant with a Syrian-Lebanese kitchen, a cuisine that is relatively unknown to restaurant visitors and continues to amaze people. The tastes are a class apart, you could say we are dealing with a new culinary taste maker. People like the kitchen because it has many appetizer courses, called ‘mazas’ - very similar to the Spanish tapas. In the restaurant you can also enjoy the unique Arab high-tea with lots of Syrian and Lebanese sweets & treats. Lunch, brunch and cocktails are being served during the day and at night a delightful dinner with Arab tapas-dishes. The Lounge with the 1001 night decor on the first floor or the Eden room at the ground floor can be booked for parties, meetings, large dinners and business events. Suggestions can be made for menu, entertainment and theme’s. New at Syriana is the “All you can eat concept”- you can eat 6 rounds and order 4 dishes per round from the in total 56 dishes with a choice from vegetarian, meat- or fishmaza’s. So you can explore the Libanese kitchen in a fun way. Price : € 19,50 during weekdays and € 22,50 on Friday and Saturday because of the live music and performance of a Belly dancer.For after dinner cocktails & shiska please visit the Club Lounge Syriana Deluxe.
Kitchen open daily from 12:00 - 22:00 Open 365 days a year See you at Syriana!
bIhp aRt Food dRinks
Keizersgracht 335 T. 020 - 622 45 11 www.bihp.nl Situated on one of the city’s most beautiful canals, this exceptionally attractive-looking establishment has a somewhat unusual concept in that it combines food and drinks with art. During the year there are several exhibitions in the gallery in the basement: Galerie K335, while during every exhibition works by the exhibiting artist can also
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be seen in the restaurant. BIHP features a mainly European kitchen, classical base, with lots of interplay between old and new traditions and flavors from all corners of the world. All the food that will be served to you originates completely from our kitchen, even the bonbons and confectionery are homemade. The menu changes on a regular basis and the dishes are cooked with the seasons wherever possible, so you will be guaranteed of a delicious and honest meal. If you have any allergies or dietary wishes that are quite specific, we kindly ask you to let us know in advance so we can take them into account. To conclude: if you’re looking for good food, a nice ambience and art, BIHP absolutely is the right address for you.
3-course menu € 32,95 - choices of fish, meat and vegetarian Kitchen open Tue - Sat 18.00 – 22.30
bRIdgeS RestauRant
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 T. 020 - 555 35 60 www.bridgesrestaurant.nl At Bridges inspired by Ron Blaauw it’s all about fish. Always the best fish and only when in season. Executive chef Joris Bijdendijk presents a wide variety of fresh fish and seafood, both in our restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Oysters, lobster sandwiches, delicate fish tartar and ocean fresh fish, everything prepared while you watch. You can eat in the restaurant as well as dine in the exclusive privacy of the Private Dining, with view of the Vinothèque, the climatized domain of the sommelier and his fine selection of wines. Bridges’ philosophy is to add only a couple of fresh ingredients to the dish in order to let the fish’s character and flavour fully blossom. Every dish retains its purity and is very easily digestible as well. Mainly locally & biologically grown vegetables complete these dishes. Sommelier Jasper van den Hoogen tastes and selects the wine in the Vinothèque. He serves specially composed wine arrangements and vintage Champagnes. Most wines can be ordered per glass.
SuppeRclub RestauRant/CoCktailbaR/Club/ GalleRy
Jonge Roelensteeg 21 T. 020 3446400 amsterdam@supperclub.com www.supperclub.com supperclub is a restaurant, cocktailbar, club, gallery and experimental free state all rolled into one. At supperclub everything revolves around stimulating your senses and releasing your creativity.” You don’t sit at a table, but enjoy your food lying down on oversized white beds with your shoes off. Cozy, informal and the perfect way to forget about table etiquette and simply indulge in the good vibes! Expect exquisite cuisine from all over the world. There is nothing conventional about the supperclub. Instead, we serve you an allnight experience. You will get a culinary journey through different dishes, countries, flavours, savours and top-notch entertainment.
Open Mon - Sun 19:30 - 01:00
NevY RestauRant
Westerdoksdijk 40 T. 020 344 64 09 info@nevy.nl www.nevy.nl True fish lovers have known it for quite some time now: Nevy is thé place to be if you want to enjoy the taste of the fruits of the sea. From perfectly fried sole to exquisite salmon risotto: the chef knows his fishes! Bright colors, transparency through the many windows and the unique panoramic view over the IJ River provide an extra dimension to your visit. With a big terrace and in the midst of the up-and-coming IJ dock area Nevy is a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine, a beautiful dish and soak up the sun in good company.
Mon - Thu 12.00 – 01.00 Fri & Sat 12.00 – 02.00 Sun 12.00 – 01.00
valet parking
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VOOGES bubblES & winES
pOnt 13
mappa
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bubbles & wines wine & champagne bar/bites
Nes 37 T 020 - 422 33 18 www.bubblesandwines.com info@bubblesandwines.com In one of the quaintest streets of Amsterdam, and only one-minute-walk distance from famous Dam Square, you will find wine & champagne bar Bubbles & Wines. In a modern, intimate chocolate brown ambiance you can enjoy more than 50 wines by the glass (including 6 sparkling) and over 200 by the bottle. Our specialties are our “wine flights”, three half glasses from one grape variety but from different wine regions. Make nice matches with our Gourmet Bites (luxury finger food) or just come in for a glass of Champagne, Pinot Grigio or Pinot Noir. Our friendly and professional staff will help you out choosing your wine and they will give you advice on what Bites will match the best. After dinner you can enjoy our choice of beautiful Grappas and other digestives or have another glass of your favorite wine. For gourmet lovers Bubbles & Wines is the best choice for a complete evening out!
Mon-Sat 15.30 - 01.00 Sun 14.00-21.00 Kitchen open - 00.45
POnT 13 restaurant
Haparandadam 50 T. 020 - 770 2722 www.pont13.nl info@pont13.nl Restaurant Pont 13 is housed on an old ferry (pont=ferry) built in 1927. Until the 1990s, it used to travel back and forth across the IJ lake. When it was declared ready for the scrap heap, René Langendijk bought it to turn it into his dream restaurant. Since 2005, Pont 13 has its anchorage at the romantic post-industrial Westelijke Houthavens, characterized by a great deal of cultural development. A beautiful place to be, with a wonderful skyline – the Amsterdam harbor, interesting new architecture, and numerous boats of all kinds. The European cuisine of Pont 13 has an original character, with the Italian slow food tradition as inspirational starting-point. On an
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open fire organic dishes are prepared. The combination of the décor of the rebuilt ferry, the impressive view, and last but not at all least the slow food kitchen makes this a place where you just love to be. Distinctive are the relaxed, homely atmosphere and the delicious food. Pont 13 imports wines, meat and home-canned fruit from the beautiful Italian region Le Marche, where owner Rene has a little farm.
Lunch daily from 12.00 - 16.00 Dinner daily from 18.30 - 22.00
maPPa restaurant
Nes 59 T. 020 – 528 91 70 www.mappa.nl In the very heart of the city on the historical street Nes, Mappa is situated in a former coffee house opened in 1810 by the Frascati brothers who became famous for their very popular Frascati Café (from 1940 on). Later, the building was used as a theater with Frascati Café as a part of it. Since 2001, however, restaurant Mappa is the happy occupant. Mappa offers Italian cuisine and “everything is home-made and made with love.” Authentic Italian food is what Mappa offers, and the restaurant is proud of the fact that all its home-made dishes are made from fresh, biological products. Mappa is mainly known for its variety of pasta dishes, but besides the pastas it also has some beautiful antipasti (starters) and a few fish and meat specialties. The menu at Mappa is changed regularly to ensure creativity and quality in the kitchen. Needless to say, good Italian food goes hand in hand with beautiful wines. The wine list at Mappa is predominantly Italian, from small vineyards in Puglia to great wine masters such as Walter Massa. The interior of Restaurant Mappa is stylish in a timeless way; 60 people can be seated here. The staff at Mappa is friendly and always ready to help. As hospitality is very important to Mappa, you are guaranteed a wonderful evening out at the restaurant.
l’inviTe restaurant
Bloemgracht 47 T 020 – 570 2010 www.linvitelerestaurant.nl L’invite is an extraordinary Amsterdam restaurant in the heart of the the Jordaan in Old West. Located on one of the most beautiful canals in the Jordaan: the Bloemgracht in a historic canalhouse from 1628. While entering l’invite le Restaurant you will receive a warm welcome by Chef Aimé van der Veen and Restaurant Maître Gerben van Dalum. Chef Aimé cooks according to the classic French cuisine, but manages to surprise again and again with original, thoughtful flavor combinations and beautiful presentations. Maître Gerben provides a relaxed atmosphere and recommends beautiful matching wines to the different dishes. You are more than welcome for the culinary Chef ’s Lunch - 3 courses for € 35, - or a quick and light business lunch - 2 courses for € 19,50. In the evening there is the Menu du Chef for € 49,50 or you can make a choice of a small but very nice à la carte. At the site www. linvitelerestaurant.nl you will find the current menu, a photo impression of the restaurant, route information and you can instantly book a table.
Open : Tue – Sun for lunch and dinner Lunch : 12.00 - 15.00 and Dinner from 18.00
Opening times kicthen: Mappa is happy to welcome you Monday - Wednesday from 18.00 - 22.00 Thursday - Saturday from 18.00 - 23.00. Reservations recommended.
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Arts & Culture
1. The renovated Rietveld building of the Van Gogh Museum, together with the more recent wing of the museum on the left. Between this wing and the Rietveld building a new entrance building is being planned. (Photo: Reneé Gerritsen) 2. Museum Plaza is the place to be in Amsterdam. The Stedelijk Museum (C) re-opened last year, the Rijksmuseum (A) will re-open in April and the Van Gogh Museum (B) in May. By the way, for the Concertgebouw (D) it also is a festive year. It was built in 1888, 125 years ago.
1 VAN GOGH MUSEUM Anniversary exhibition: Van Gogh in a new light May 1 2013 - January 12 2014 While enjoying the hospitality of the Hermitage Amsterdam until April 25, the Van Gogh Museum will return to its own building on Museum Plaza on May 1 2013. The new building will comply once again with all the safety and conservation standards befitting a museum of global repute. The renovated building also creates all kinds of possiblities to place Van Gogh in a new light. The anniversary exhibition Van Gogh at work, with which the renovated Van Gogh Museum will re-open on May 1, will show how in ten years’ time Van Gogh developed into a unique artist with an impressive oeuvre. The exhibition,
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which will mark the close of eight years of research into Van Gogh’s working methods, will illustrate the painter’s development with 200 works of art by Van Gogh and his contemporaries. Microscopes and paint samples will help visitors to discover how he worked and mastered new skills. Many masterpieces from the museum, along with art works on loan, will form new combinations and shed light on Van Gogh’s career. www.vangoghmuseum.nl
RIJKSMUSEUM Opening of the new museum on April 13 Open all year After ten years of renovations, the Rijksmuseum – well-known for Rembrandt’s Night Watch – will welcome its visitors in a totally new entourage. The opening of the new museum will take place on April 13. Queen Beatrix will attend this special happening. After all the renovations by the Spanish architects Antonio Cruz and Antonio Ortiz, the Rijksmuseum certainly deserves the title ‘Cultural Cathedral of the Netherlands’. In 80 galleries exhibiting some 8,000 objects, the museum tells the tale of 800 years of Dutch culture. With its collection, the ‘Rijks’ (as it is called by the Dutch) offers an extensive and representative cross-section of
the Netherlands’ rich history and cultural wealth. The historical collection of the Rijksmuseum is very extensive indeed: from famous masterpieces to wondrous décor pieces and furniture; from single items of every-day use to fully styled interiors, often from the Netherlands, but much from far beyond the country’s borders, too. The reason for this, of course, is the huge role of the Dutch colonial past in its culture. A dedicated Asia Pavilion has been created to reflect this, for instance. www.rijksmuseum.nl
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ANNET GELINK GALLERY An ever-expanding universe of media 13 April - 18 May 2013 The Annet Gelink Gallery presents contemporary conceptual art. During April and May the gallery presents work by Ryan Gander (1976, Chester, England). Gander feels at ease within an ever-expanding universe of media. His work ranges from installations, sculptures and photographs to performative lectures, publications, inventions and interventions. Gander examines the conditions of art production and the cognitive process of the perception of art. His works form a labyrinth of inter-related narratives often 66 I Rush on Amsterdam
based on real incidents or characters or existing artworks. He has won numerous prestigious prizes. Alongside his artistic production, Gander is a visiting lecturer at a selection of art schools in Europe and regular writer for art and design periodicals. New work by the artist is currently in production. Annet Gelink Gallery, founded in 2000, is an internationally oriented gallery, but introduces Dutch art by national artists, too. Project space ‘The Bakery’ is especially meant for new talent, often young artists who for the first time get an opportunity to show their work to a broad, international audience. www.annetgelink.com
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HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM Tsar Peter the Great in the capital March 9 - December 13 2013 The Netherlands and Russia have enjoyed a warm relationship for centuries, a fact that has been celebrated and remembered extensively in recent years. In 2009, for instance, the Hermitage Amsterdam opened the only European annex of the famous St Petersburg museum. This year, the close relationship between the two countries is emphasised in the ‘Netherlands-Russia Year 2013’. Hermitage Amsterdam this year will be presenting a special exhibition about famous
tsar Peter the Great. Objects of art, priceless collector’s items and various personal belongings of this influential Russian tsar will feature most prominently. As soon as he gained power aged just 17, the young tsar started to modernise 17th century Russia. He set out straight away to build relationships with western European countries and made two long journeys, one of which was to the Republic of the Seven United Netherlands. He visited the shipyards of Zaandam and in Amsterdam he was inspired to found his new capital city of St Petersburg, known ever since as Russia’s ‘Window to the West’.
Spring 2013
ARTS & CULTURE
1. Ryan Gander, ‘Alchemy Box No. 37’, 2012. Photo by Sebastiano Pellion di Persano; courtesy of Annet Gelink Gallery, Amsterdam. 2. When being abroad, tsar Peter the Great took his medication with him. Courtesy of Hermitage Amsterdam. 3. The exhibition ‘Troy. City, Homer, Turkey’ will serve to round off celebrations this year of 400 years of diplomatic relations between Turkey and the Netherlands. (Photo: Mike Bink)
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Peter the Great was an avid art collector, too. With the purchase of works by masters including Rembrandt, he laid the foundations of what was later to become the world-famous Hermitage collection in St Petersburg. Arguably, he laid the foundations of the collection that can be seen at Hermitage Amsterdam this year. www.hermitage.nl/en
ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM
‘Troy. City, Homer, Turkey’
Until 5 May, 2013
The enigmatic city of Troy currently takes centre stage at the Allard Pierson Museum’s exhibition ‘Troy. City, Homer,Turkey’. The city of Troy is first described by the Greek poet Homer. Stories about Troy have been an inspiration for people for centuries, and that is perhaps why so many have tried to find it. At the end of the 19th century, German businessman and archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann discovered what may well be the remains of Troy in north-western Turkey.
Spring 2013
However, the exact origin of Troy remains the subject of archaeological research and debate.
and excellent researchers, the museum shows the relevance of old civilisations to today’s European culture.
Archaeological finds reveal the remnants of more than 3,500 years of civilisation. Historians sometimes created their own cities of Troy by giving their own interpretation of the myths and archaeological objects. Discord and conflict dominate the search for the ‘real’ Troy, making this exhibition more than worthwhile.
The exhibition ‘Troy. City, Homer, Turkey’ will also serve to round off celebrations this year of 400 years of diplomatic relations between Turkey and the Netherlands. www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl
The Allard Pierson Museum, on Oude Turfmarkt in the heart of town, is the archaeological museum of the University of Amsterdam. Boasting a glorious archaeological collection, talented students Rush on Amsterdam I 67
ARTS & CULTURE
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AKINCI GALLERY Thomas Huber: beyond perceptible April 6 - May 18 2013 In Akinci, a gallery founded in 1988, you can feel the presence of Thomas Huber. During the months of April and May that is. The paintings of Huber (1955, Zürich) transport you to a reconstructed world beyond the purely perceptible. Huber’s perspective portrayals of spaces and places, in a mysterious game of light and shadow, do not depict reality. If you want to experience this lack of reality, you should definitely visit Akinci at the Lijnbaansgracht 317. Akinci shows contemporary art with an emphasis 68 I Rush on Amsterdam
on actual developments and daunting experiment. In the same location at Lijnbaansgracht 312-317, you will find three other galleries: Lumen Travo, Metis and Flatland.
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TASSENMUSEUM HENDRIKJE (MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES)
Unique designs by Kimie Yagi
ion museums means people come here mainly for what is on display. It is the only museum of its kind with such an extensive and specialised collection of bags and purses.
March 12 - May 5 2013 www.akinci.nl Museum of Bags and Purses ‘Hendrikje’ takes visitors on a journey of the development of bags and purses from the 16th century onwards. The collection offers a fascinating impression of (hand)bag fashion over the ages. Tassenmuseum Hendrikje is located in a monumental building at Herengracht 573. The building, erected in 1664, boasts an impressive, historical interior and is worth a visit if only to marvel at that. But ranking among the world’s top 8 fash-
During March, April and May, Japanese designer Kimie Yagi will exhibit her work at the museum. Based on sketches of nature – landscapes and flowers – she ‘paints’ her bags with all kinds of colours in wool and felt. www.tassenmuseum.nl
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ARTS & CULTURE
1. Thomas Huber, ‘Aushub II’, 2010, oil on linen, 80 x 60 cm, courtesy of Akinci. 2, 3, and 4. Based on sketches of nature - of landscapes and flowers Kimie Yagi ‘paints’ her bags with all kinds of colours in wool and felt. 5. Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder used to be a church and is now a church museum. There’s no way of telling from the outside that its attic is home to a church. 6 and 7. Public Roman Catholic Church services could not be held publicly in the Netherlands during the 17th century. Worshippers therefore went underground. In this case, that meant going ‘overground’, into the attic of a town mansion.
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MUSEUM ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER ‘Our Lord in the Attic’ Open all year On Oudezijds Voorburgwal visitors will find one of the most extraordinary museums of Amsterdam. On the outside, Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (‘Our Lord in the Attic’) looks like any of the city’s other stately mansions. Behind its characteristic façade, however, is a 17th century home with a complete church in the attic.
itself, complete with galleries, a large altar and seating for some 80 worshippers. But the rest of the building, including 17th and 19th century period rooms, is most certainly worth taking in, too. 2013 heralds the start of building work as part of an expansion of the museum to the building next door. Once complete, this new section will house the entrance hall, a shop and a museum café.
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www.opsolder.nl Home churches originate from the time when Catholics, after successful protestations by Protestants, were banned from holding public church services. The great treasure of the museum is the church Spring 2013
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ARTS & CULTURE
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STADSSCHOUWBURG (CITY THEATRE)
Brandstichter 2013: Alvis Hermanis
launched his international career. They are original and touching comedies, yet not a word is spoken.
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HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM What’s life like on a houseboat? Open all year
2 March - 6 April 2013 Each year, with the series Brandhaarden en Brandstichters (literally ‘Seats of Fire and Arsonists’) Amsterdam’s Stadsschouwburg presents internationally famous theatre companies and directors. This spring, Latvian director Alvis Hermanis will step into the limelight, presenting five acclaimed performances. The five shows introduce audiences to Hermanis’ versatile talent. The pieces ‘Long Life’ and ‘The Sound of Silence’ – first performed at the New Riga Theatre – 70 I Rush on Amsterdam
In ‘Väter’, a production by Schauspielhaus Zürich, a Latvian, a Russian and a German talk about their fathers. ‘Sommergäste’ (by Schaubühne Berlin) and ‘Wassa’ (by the Münchner Kammerspiele) are large-scale performances in hyper-realistic sets and costumes. www.ssba.nl/brandstichter
At the Houseboat Museum, you can experience for yourself what it’s like to live on a houseboat in Amsterdam. Located in a former sailing ship built in 1914, you will find the museum on the Prinsengracht on the edge of Amsterdam’s Jordaan district close to the Anne Frank House. Its deckhouse, including the box bed, where the sailor’ family used to live and sleep, has remained as it originally was. The hold, however, has been converted into a cosy abode with all mod cons. Models of ships, photographs and a slide show complete the picture.
The Houseboat Museum is an initiative of Vincent van Loon: “Living on a houseboat myself, I noticed that passersby often tried to look inside, curious about the interior. And I was always bombarded with questions. How do I get water and electricity? And what about drainage? Isn’t it cold, damp and dark on board? Everybody seemed to want to know. That’s how I got the idea to open a houseboat to the public.” www.houseboatmuseum.nl
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ARTS & CULTURE
1 and 2. The pieces ‘Long Life’ and ‘The Sound of Silence’ - first performed at the New Riga Theatre - launched Latvian theatre director Alvis Hermanis’ international career. These are scenes from ‘The Sound of Silence’. Courtesy of The Sound of Silence. 2. Marie Cecile Thijs, food series:
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‘Umami’. Courtesy of Eduard Planting Gallery. 3. You can experience for yourself what it’s like to live on a houseboat at the Houseboat Museum. 4. The living room of a houseboat, apparently dating back to the times of the typewriter...
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EDUARD PLANTING GALLERY ‘Food Portraits’ by Marie Cécile Thijs
Financieele Dagblad’. The texts in ‘FD Persoonlijk’ are by culinary historian and writer Hilary Akers.
March 9 - April 27 2013 The exhibition ‘Food Portraits’ by Marie Cécile Thijs shows a diversity of culinary photography. Pink fungi under a bell jar, storm in glasses of water, distilled Umami, artichoke dripping in oil... You may also find photographs of chanterelles on bread or bleeding beetroot. The food portraits by Marie Cécile Thijs are analytical, tranquil and yet dynamic, each showing the essence of food. The work of Marie Cécile Thijs is published weekly in ‘FD Persoonlijk’, the weekend magazine of the Dutch financial daily newspaper ‘Het Spring 2013
For more than 15 years, Marie Cécile Thijs has specialised in art photography. She combines a contemporary style with her love for classical references. Eduard Planting Gallery specialises in selling and buying photographs by nationally and internationally well-known artists. Besides that, the gallery regularly invites upcoming talent to exhibit work. This creates an interesting mix and contrast between famous and relatively unknown photographers. www.eduardplanting.com
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FEATURE
Frits Janmaat Gives Erard Pianos a Second Life
Top Restorer for the Rolls Royce among the pianos whEn hE wAs 20, FRiTs JAnmAAT sTill hAd no clEAR idEA oF whAT hE wAnTEd To do in liFE. whAT hE did know, is ThAT hE wAnTEd ThE FREEdom To bE AblE To sEizE ThE dAy. hE sTARTEd TUning piAnos in ThE lATE sEvEnTiEs And goT by on AboUT 200 gUildERs A wEEk. onE dAy hE wAs AskEd To TUnE An ERARd, ThE Rolls RoycE Among piAnos. “i wAs sTRUck in An insTAnT. i didn’T UndERsTAnd ThE Thing AT All.”
Text & Photography Robert van der Zwan
Top A balanced combination of form and colour. Below A little more than maintenance is required here…
As
a young man of 20, Janmaat had no real musical background. His father played the saxophone, his mother sang in the church choir, but that was about it. Reading music was alien to the young Janmaat. But things change and at 30 he initiated a concert series in the famous Amsterdam Concertgebouw. A number of renowned pianists played work by the composers Liszt and Ravel on an Erard. And not only Liszt and Ravel composed their works on this French grand, so did the likes of Mendelssohn, Chopin, Verdi and Wagner – to mention but a few. AlwAys oUTsTAnding Erard produced about 120,000 grand pianos in Paris between 1825 and 1930. It is estimated that some 115,000 of them are still around. Janmaat travels all over Europe to give restorable Erards a new life. The ones that aren’t restorable are of value, too, as they can be used to stock his parts repository: flies, tuning pins, hammers… So that every Erard that leaves his workshop is a real Erard. And according to Janmaat, the quality is always outstanding. The price differences – they sell for anything between 15,000 and 50,000 euros - are due to the size of the piano and the amount of restoration and painting work required. The polishing technique applied by Janmaat is based upon natural shellac, a technique that gives the piano its unique shine.
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ElEgAnT And moving What else makes an Erard so unique? According to Janmaat, an Erard can be played more precisely, more delicately, than a cross-strung piano. In all contemporary pianos, the bass snares are strung across the other snares. In Erards, all the snares are strung parallel to one another. As a result, the sounding board resonates differently and produces a clearer, finer note, making an Erard sound more elegant and moving than other pianos. Unsurprisingly, the demand for Janmaat’s restored Erards among the world’s leading music institutions is huge. He names a few: the Musée de la Musique in Parijs, Cornell University in Ithaca/New York and the University of Pennsylvania. ExTRA vARiATion Janmaat regularly sits at one of his pianos in order to demonstrate all the possibilities of an Erard, from the furore of Spanish castanets to the modesty of gentle violins. After performing one such musical anthology, he tells me about two other inventions that make the Erard so special. The hammer head, the part that delivers the action of the key to the string to produce a note, is covered with several layers of felt instead of just one layer, which allows for extra variation in key action. Also, in 1823, Sebastien Erard – the spiritual father of all Erards – invented the double échappement, a mechanism that allows you to repeat a note extremely quickly, thereby enabling huge variation in rhythm. All other piano manufacturers would soon incorporate this invention in their pianos.
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FEATURE
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FEATURE
Teak! Where do you come across that nowadays?
iT soUnds 'Too FAT' Franz Liszt composed approximately 80% of his oeuvre on an Erard. Janmaat: “So it’s possible to hear Liszt just as Liszt himself would have heard his compositions. If you play the same piece on a modern piano, you hear a different Liszt.” In 1998, Janmaat restored an Erard on which Liszt actually played for the Musée de la Musique. Around 1900, Maurice Ravel composed on an Erard because other pianos produced a sound that was ‘too fat’ for the music he wanted to write. But Erards were already well known among composers a century earlier. Haydn played on the very early Erard 28 in 1802 and Beethoven became the proud owner of Erard 133 in 1803 (the numbers are what we would now call serial numbers).
pearance in the world’s famous concert halls? Janmaat doesn’t really understand either. It is certainly the case that in its time, an Erard was much more expensive than a Steinway or Bechstein. This enabled German piano manufacturers to substantially increase their market share during the first half of the 20th century. “Obviously, the Germans made very good pianos, too. Perhaps the French management was too slow to respond.” lEss is moRE! According to Janmaat, another factor that certainly plays a role is the way an Erard should be played. A student used to playing on a Steinway or Yamaha will need to adjust to an Erard. “If you’re used to a modern piano, you’re likely to go over the top on an Erard. On an Erard, less is more.” It requires a whole new perspective on music that for decades has had a certain classical sound. “With an Erard, you hear the primary source of the music. It isn’t easy to overcome existing perceptions.” At the same time, Janmaat remains optimistic. As long as an Erard is properly maintained and cared for, it will last
Beethoven became the proud owner of Erard 133
Frits Janmaat: "I was struck in an instant."
FoRmER gloRy: how comE? If you want to play on an Erard today, Frits Janmaat is your man. How does Janmaat explain the fact that pianos are no longer made according to the ‘Erard-principles’? And how is it possible that the piano on which 70 percent of all classical music was composed now rarely makes an ap-
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FeatUre
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forever. An innumerable number of the 115,000 pianos out there can still be played perfectly well. And if it’s up to Janmaat, that number will keep growing. He is confident that the 130 or so Erards that he has restored in the past 30 years won’t be the only ones. “Just look at the new generation of students. Young musicians nowadays are immediately inspired when they hear an Erard.” Today, Janmaat’s pianos are played upon by both young and more seasoned professionals, including Emmanuel Ax, Ronald Brautigam and Jos van Immerseel.
It suddenly becomes very easy to imagine a ‘Soirée Erard’, complete with a glass of fine wine.
1. Erard: a feast for the eye and a treat for the ear.
Fortunately, Janmaat never feels alone during such concerts. Nor when he goes through the archives of the Erard firm, established in 1780 by Sebastien Erard (1752-1831). He is currently writing a book about ‘this genius’ (“80 percent of all patents relevant to contemporary grand pianos belong to Sebastien Erard”). The Musée de la Cité, trustee of the Erard archives, receives Janmaat almost as royalty.
2. A page from a 1849 sales ledger.
Passion and Patience Janmaat understands that although he can communicate his passion to the world, that doesn’t mean that the name ‘Erard’ will become just as well known as other piano brands. But he is a patient man. Musicians from all over the world play on his restored Erards. His showroom on the Keizersgracht isn’t the only thing that gives his company a certain Erard-allure. Each month, the canal-side house attracts music lovers who come to listen to a concert in a way they’ve never heard one before. His ‘Maison Erard’ – the showroom and workshop – then becomes ‘Salon Erard’, where he and others bring ‘his’ pianos to life.
three times erard • Maison Erard: Erard restoration, sales and rentals
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Salon Erard: monthly concerts on an Erard
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Soirée Erard: if there’s sufficient interest, a concert on an Erard with dinner and wine
3. Erard logo: 115,000, pianos are still out there. 4. Brown? Blue? Black?! Frits Janmaat restores them all.
At Maison Erard you can get further information about some 60 ‘Erard’-CDs and other news, such as about the annual Hortus festival. Website: www.erard.nl
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EASTERN EUROPE: A STEP IN THE UNKNOWN? Did you ever think of going to Eastern Europe, but did you also consider this to be a ‘step in the unknown’? Not any longer! We show you all the fruits of Eastern Europe without getting lost! We are from the eastern part of Europe ourselves. We know where you can find superb beaches, impressive mountains, ancient culture and... very friendly people! From Eastern Europe to Eastern Europe, we do not show you the traffic lights, but the side-paths!
www.eutraveling.com
DO YOU WANT SOME OUTDOOR ADVENTURE? Would you like to visit the woods and climb some mountains to become a part of unspoilt nature? Then go to our site to find out were you can experience the outside world as you have never experienced it before.
www.euhuntings.com
www.lovelyladies.nl
(for adults only)
Fast Facts AMSTERDAM TOURIST INFORMATION Besides providing tourist information such as hotel reservations, excursions and theatre tickets, the Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board (ATCB) provides information on excursions, guided walking tours, attractions, restaurants, shops, parking facilities and public transport. The information offices of the ATCB can be found at several locations: opposite Central Station, on platform 2 inside the station, on Leidseplein and at the Schiphol arrival hall. ATCB – T 0900 4004040 (40 eurocents p.m.)
and, among other things, a free guided tour of the Amsterdam Diamond Group. You can buy the card for 24, 48 or 72 hours. ATCB – T 0900 4004040 (40 eurocents p.m.), also: www.iamsterdam.com
INTERNET Internet stalls of the telephone booth type can be found all over the city centre. The WiFi identifcation ‘Hotspot Amsterdam’ allows you to connect to the internet from various locations with a wireless enabled desktop, laptop or smartphone within range of a hotspot zone. www.hotspotamsterdam.com
MAKING PHONE cALLS I AMSTERDAM cITy cARD In addition to public transport and a roundtrip of the canals, almost all the Amsterdam museums can be visited free of charge with the electronic I Amsterdam City Card. You’ll also receive a 25 % discount at restaurants and tourist attractions, free admission to the Holland Casino,
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To call abroad from the Netherlands, dial 00 followed by country code, area code and number. For the country codes, please see the Tele Info section in the Amsterdam phone book. The Netherlands country code is 31. For most public phones you need a phone card, available from post offices, ATCB offices (= tourist offices),
tobacconists, some supermarkets and department stores.
T 020 677 77 77 (or 777 77 77) Electric Taxi Company Taxi-E – T 881 00 44 44
USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS • Central emergency: 112 • Doctor’s service: 0900 503 2042 • KPN telecom information: national 0900 8008 international 0900 8418
BANKS Banks are open on weekdays from 09:00 through 16:00 or 17:00 hrs. Most banks are closed on Monday mornings. Some larger branches stay open later on Thursday evenings.
cHANGING MONEy Money and traveller’s checks can be changed at banks, some hotels and specialised exchange offices such as GWK (at Central Station) and SUNRO Change.
TAXIS There are fewer taxi stands than there used to be, but these days it is much easier than before to hail a cab on the street. TCA Amsterdam Taxi Centrale –
HIRING BIcycLES Bicycling is a wonderful way to get around Amsterdam. To hire a bike, look in the phone book under ‘Fietsen-verhuur’. A word of warning: always lock up your bike, as bike theft is rife. There is a free bicycle parking area at Central Station.
BIcycLE TAXIS An environmentally-friendly means of transportation in the city centre is offered by the bicycle taxi. You can hail them on the street or reserve one by telephone. www.wielertaxi.nl – T 06 1859 5153 (or 06 2824 7550) www.amsterdambiketaxi.info – T 06 454 13 725
TRAVELLING By WATER In Amsterdam, travelling by water can be done in all sorts of ways.
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FAST FACTS
Canal Bus stops near all the major museums, shopping areas and attractions. T 020 626 55 74, address Weteringschans 26, www.canal.nl/bus Lovers Museum Boat leaves at the front of Central Station and stops at all the major museums. T 020 530 54 12, address Prins Hendrikkade 25, www.lovers.nl Meyer’s Rondvaarten offers canal cruises and special arrangements on request. T 020 623 42 08, address Damrak jetty
clamping is too, at least € 64. You also run the chance of having your car towed due to illegal parking. It will cost you a minimum of € 180 to get you car back! Paid parking in the city centre applies Monday through Saturday 09:00-24:00 and Sunday from 12:00-24:00 hrs. Car parks can be found at ‘de Bijenkorf ’ (department store near Beursplein, off Damrak), Byzantium (near Leidseplein), Europarking (Marnixstraat 250), Heinekenplein, Museumplein, Prinsengracht 540-542, Waterlooplein and Central Station. Stadstoezicht / Parking Authority – T 020 553 03 00
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Water Taxis are not cheap, but offer an enjoyable means of transportation. T 020 535 63 63, address Stationsplein 8, www.watertaxi.nl
PARKING You are strongly advised not to take your car into the inner city. Parking is expensive and wheelSpring 2013
GVB, Amsterdam’s public transportation company, provides integrated metro, tram and bus service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since 2010, a comprehensive chipcard ticket system allows you to travel on the metro, trams and buses, using just one card. The so-called ‘OV chip card’ is available at the GVB office in front of Central Station,
at railway station ‘Amsterdam Lelylaan’ and at railway station ‘Amsterdam Zuid’. The chip card is also available at the ATCB tourist offices, many supermarkets and most tobacconists. When travelling by tram, single-trip chip cards are available from the conductor (please walk to the rear end of the tram). GVB travel info – T 0900 9292, also: www.gvb.nl
SCHIPHOL AIRPORT How do you travel to Amsterdam Schiphol International Airport? By car: Schiphol Airport is only 20 minutes by car from the centre of Amsterdam. The airport is centrally located on the motorway network in the country’s urban agglomeration of Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam and Utrecht. All these cities are rather close at hand, while the rest of the country is easily accessible via the A1, A2, A4 and A9 motorways.
By train: Schiphol can be reached by train from the city centre in 10-15 minutes. There are also excellent rail connections to the airport from the rest of the Netherlands and from abroad. Schiphol has a stop for the high-speed train, too, taking you to Antwerp, Brussels and Paris. Train tickets are sold at the Netherlands Railways counters and ticket machines at Schiphol Plaza. There are money changing machines here if you need coins.
BUSINESS CENTRE SCHIPHOL All business and secretarial services are available at Schiphol Airport, including offices and meeting rooms – T 020 653 24 80. Also: Schiphol Information – T 0900 0141
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Arts & Culture Listing An overview of most of the city’s culturAl estAblishments. PleAse cAll to check for sPecific oPening hours. keeP in mind thAt mAny museums Are closed on mondAys. for generAl informAtion, PleAse diAl 0900 4004040. for tickets to events, PleAse contAct ‘de uitlijn’, telePhone 0900 0191. ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM
Oude Turfmarkt 127 T 020 525 25 56 www.uba.uva.nl/apm AMSTELKRING MUSEUM
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 T 020 624 66 04 AMSTERDAM MUSEUM
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 359 T 020 523 18 22 www.amsterdammuseum.nl
CARRÉ KONINKLIJK THEATER (ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ)
Amstel 115-125 T 0900-252 52 55 www.theatercarre.nl
CAT’S MUSEUM - SEE KATTENKABINET
FOAM (PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM)
COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
AMSTERDAMSE SCHOOL - SEE MUSEUM HET SCHIP
Sandbergplein 1 Amstelveen (= near Amsterdam) T 020 547 50 50
ANNE FRANK HOUSE
CONCERTGEBOUW
Prins Hendrikkade 600 T 020 620 48 78 www.arcam.nl ARTIS ZOO
Plantage Kerklaan 40 T 020 523 34 00 www.artis.nl BIMHUIS
Piet Heinkade 3 T 020 788 21 50 www.bimhuis.nl BIJBELS MUSEUM (MUSEUM OF THEBIBLE)
Herengracht 366 T 020 624 24 36
Keizersgracht 324 T 020 623 13 11 www.felix.meritis.nl
CINEMA RIALTO
Nwe. Jonkerstraat 8 T 020 620 80 27
ARCAM CENTER FOR ARCHITECTURE
FELIX MERITIS
FILMMUSEUM
AMSTERDAMS
Prinsengracht 263 T 020 556 71 00 www.annefrank.nl
IJpromenade 1 T 020 5891400 www.eyefilm.nl
CHILDREN’S MUSEUM - SEE KINDERMUSEUM
Ceintuurbaan 338 T 020 662 34 88 www.rialtofilm.nl
MARIONETTEN THEATER
EYE THE NEW FILMMUSEUM
Concertgebouwplein 10 T 020 0900 671 83 45 www.concertgebouw.nl CULTUREEL CENTRUM AMSTELVEEN
Plein 1960 Amstelveen (= near Amsterdam) T 020 547 51 75
DELAMAR THEATER
Marnixstraat402 T 0900 - 3352627 www.delamar.nl
DUTCH RESISTANCE MUSEUM
(VERZETSMUSEUM)
Plantage Kerklaan 61 T 020 620 25 35 www.verzetsmuseum.org ENGELSE KERK (THE ENGLISH CHURCH)
Begijnhof 48 T 020 624 96 65
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- See Eye
Keizersgracht 609 T 020 551 65 00 www.foam.nl HASH MARIHUANA & HEMP MUSEUM
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 130 www.hashmuseum.com JOODS HISTORISCH MUSEUM (JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM)
Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 T 020 626 99 45 www.jhm.nl
HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
Stadhouderskade 78 T 020 523 96 66
HERMITAGE
AMSTERDAM
Nieuwe Herengracht 14 T 020 530 87 55 www.hermitage.nl HOLLAND EXPERIENCE 3D MOVIE THEATER
Waterlooplein 17 T 020 422 22 33 www.holland-experience.nl
HORTUS BOTANICUS (BOTANICAL GARDEN)
Plantage Middenlaan 2A T 020 625 84 11 www.hortus-botanicus.nl
MADAME TUSSAUDS
Dam 20 T 020 5221010 www.madametussauds.com
HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM - SEE WOONBOOTMUSEUM
MUSEUM FOR SPECTACLES/GLASSES (BRILMUSEUM AMSTERDAM)
HUIS MARSEILLE (FOUNDATION FOR PHOTOGRAPHY)
MUSEUM HET SCHIP
Keizersgracht 401 T 020 531 89 89 JAZZ - SEE BIMHUIS
KATTENKABINET (CAT’S MUSEUM)
Herengracht 497 T 020 626 53 78 www.kattenkabinet.nl KINDERMUSEUM (CHILDREN’S MUSEUM)
Linnaeusstraat 2 T 020 568 82 33
KIT TROPENMUSEUM (TROPICS MUSEUM)
Linnaeusstraat 2 T 020 568 82 00
KIT TROPENTHEATER
Mauritskade 63/ Linneausstraat 2 T 020 568 85 00
KLEINE KOMEDIE
Amstel 56 T 020 624 05 34
KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE)
Dam Square T 020 620 40 60 KUNSTFABRIEK
Haarlemmerweg 315d T 020 488 94 30
www.brilmuseumamsterdam.nl T 020 418 28 85 www.hetschip.nl
MUSEUM VAN DER TOGT
Dorpsstraat 50 Amstelveen (= near Amsterdam) T 020 641 57 54
MUSEUM VAN LOON
Keizersgracht 672 T 020 624 52 55
MUSEUM VINDINGRIJK THEATER
Utrechtse Dwarsstraat 13 T 020 428 63 68 MUSEUM WILLET HOLTHUYZEN
Herengracht 605/ Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 359 T 020 523 18 22 MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ‘T IJ
Piet Heinkade 1 T 020 788 20 00 www.muziekgebouw.nl MUZIEKTHEATER
Amstel 3 T 020 625 54 55 www.het muziektheater.nl
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM (SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM)
Kattenburgerplein 1 T 020 523 22 22 www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl NEMO/ NEW METROPOLIS
Oosterdok 2 T 0900 919 11 00 www.e-nemo.nl
NIEUWE KERK (THE NEW CHURCH)
Dam Square T 020 626 81 68 www.nieuwekerk.nl
OUDE KERK (THE OLD CHURCH)
Oudekerksplein 23 T 020 625 82 84 www.oudekerk.nl PARADISO
Weteringschans 6-8 T 020 626 45 21 www.paradiso.nl PIANOLA AND PIANO MUSEUM
Westerstraat 106 T 020 627 96 24 www.pianola.nl
REMBRANDTHUIS (REMBRANDT’S HOUSE MUSEUM)
Jodenbreestraat 4 T 020 520 04 00 www.rembrandthuis.nl RODE HOED
Keizersgracht 102 T 020 638 56 06 ROYAL PALACE - SEE KONINKLIJK PALEIS RIJKSMUSEUM
Museumplein Jan Luykenstraat 1 T 020 674 70 00 www.rijksmuseum.nl
STADSSCHOUWBURG (CITY THEATRE)
Leidseplein 26 T 020 624 23 11
STEDELIJK MUSEUM AMSTERDAM www.stedelijk.nl THEATER FABRIEK AMSTERDAM Czaar Peterstraat 213 T 020 522 52 60 www.theaterfabriek.nl THEATERMUSEUM Herengracht 168-174 T 020 551 33 00 www.tin.nl TRADE UNION MUSEUM Henri Polaklaan 9 T 020 624 11 66 TROPICS MUSEUM - SEE KIT TROPENMUSEUM VAN GOGH MUSEUM Paulus Potterstraat 7 T 020 570 52 00 www.vangoghmuseum.nl VERZETSMUSEUM - SEE DUTCH RESISTANCE MUSEUM WAALSE KERK (WALLOON CHURCH) Oudezijds Achterburgwal 159 T 020 623 20 74 WESTERKERK Prinsengracht 281 T 020 624 77 66 WOONBOOTMUSEUM Prinsengracht opposite nr. 296 T 020 427 07 50
Spring 2013
SHOPPING AREAS
Amsterdam’s Shopping Areas CITY CEnTrE Two of the city’s most popular shopping streets can be found near Dam Square. Running from Central Station to the Dam, Nieuwendijk has a misleading name - it means ‘new dike’ - for it is actually the oldest dike in the city. This shopping area with numerous clothing stores, boutiques, shoe stores, souvenir shops, fast-food restaurants, etcetera, bustles with tourists. Kalverstraat runs from the other side of the square to the Munt. Named after the calf market that was held here in the 15th century, it is teeming with fashionable clothing, footwear and gift stores. The boulevard Rokin also starts at Dam Square. Just ignore the construction going on (for the NorthSouth Line metro) and stroll along the stores with women’s wear, gorgeous shoes, art, cigars, diamonds and jewellry. The short but very busy shopping street Heiligeweg crosses Kalverstraat just before the Munt and leads to Koningsplein where you’ll find the world-famous floating Flower Market and Leidsestraat, ending up in renowned Leidseplein.
9 STrAATJES
north from Rozengracht as far as Brouwersgracht are what original Jordaaners consider to be the Jordaan proper, but the Jordaan actually extends south from Rozengracht to Elandsgracht and includes indoor market De Looier, which is the largest permanent indoor Art and Antiques Centre in the country.
UTrECHTSESTrAAT To the east of the city, between famous Rembrandtplein and Frederiksplein lies Utrechtsestraat,
SPIEGELKWArTIEr Spiegelkwartier, a shopping area in the eastern part of the city centre, has an international reputation for fine art and antiques. Concentrated in and around Nieuwe Spiegelstraat, this district close to the Rijksmuseum boasts over 80 antique shops and galleries. An area that’s a must for lovers of art and antiques!
MUSEUMKWArTIEr
Endless ideas for events
Hobbemastraat, Van Baerlestraat and the Byzantium plus chic P.C. Hooftstraat are part of the Museum Quarter in the south of the city and famous for its designer boutiques. Shoppers will find virtually every famous label and fashion house here, among them Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, René Lezard, Chanel, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Louis Vuitton, Roberto Botticelli and Tod’s, to name just a few.
APOLLOKWArTIEr
Are you looking for a venue for your event, product launch or company party? Of course there is plenty of choice, until you start looking for an inspiring environment as well. Thatís when it is worth considering the Amsterdam Beurs van Berlage. Its unique history and impressive ambiance will turn your event into something truly special. We offer 21 different rooms for 50 to 1,200 persons, and our very own catering company Maison van den Boer can make sure your guests want for nothing. Have we given you any ideas?
(The Nine little streets) This lively and picturesque neighbourhood encompassing the cross streets between Singel and Prinsengracht, in the area between Raadhuisstraat and Leidsestraat, offers a great variety of shopping, OLD WEST restaurants and cafés. The area is Not far from the Jordaan lies1 also fascinating for its architec- BvB.adv_Evenementen_148x105_ENGELS.indd Old West with, among others, ture: indeed, the 9 Straatjes is a Kinkerstraat and the Ten Kate microcosm of canal-belt architecMarket. Close to the Vondelpark, tural styles. parallel to Overtoom (these days JOrDAAn known for its great number of inThis district (to the West of the terior decorating shops as well as center) may be Amsterdam’s most variety of restaurants) and within famous neighbourhood besides a stone’s throw of the city’s centre the ‘Walletjes’ (Red Light District). is Kinkerstraat, a cozy shopping The streets and canals extending area characterised by an interestSpring 2013
ing mix of people and cultures, a great variety of shops, a busy but friendly atmosphere and the pleasant Ten Kate market which crosses Kinkerstraat.
Beautiful villas and luxury hotels abound in the chic, elegant district known as the Apollokwartier (Apollo Quarter). Go and have a look at Cornelis Schuytstraat, and be sure to leave yourself some time for a leisurely stroll along Beethovenstraat.
DE PIJP
The De Pijp district, roughly rectangular in shape, is located to the Endless ideas southeast of the city centre, just beyond the girdle of canals, close a popular shopping street rich to Leidseplein en Rembrandtplein. 14:43:30 in history. Undulating over16-07-2010 the Its perimeters are demarcated by bridges that cross the HerenStadhouderskade and the Amstel. gracht, Keizersgracht and PrinsenIt has become a very popular gracht canals, Utrechtsestraat is neighbourhood, a true cultural renowned for its many speciality melting pot and boasts, among stores and boutiques and a great others, a great variety of (ethnic) variety of (international) restaurestaurants and the Albert Cuyp rants. Market.
Rush on Amsterdam I 81
Listing Hotel
Listing 2- STAR HOTELS Acostar Hotel Alp Hotel Amistad Hotel Amsterdam Wiechmann Hotel Armada Hotel Art Gallery Hotel Asterisk Hotel Budget Hotel Barbacan Budget Hotel Flipper City Hotel Family Hotel Verdi Hoksbergen Hotel Hotel 83 Hotel Adolesce Hotel de Gerstekorrel Hotel de Munck Hotel Diann Hotel Freeland Hotel Hegra Amsterdam Centre Hotel Hermitage Amsterdam Hotel Iris Hotel Kap Hotel old Quarter Hotel Parkzicht Hotel Plantage Hotel Rembrandt Hotel Sipermann Hotel Washington ITC Hotel Koopermoolen Poet Hotel Amsterdam Sphinx Hotel Water Front Acostar Hotel Alp Hotel Amistad Hotel Amsterdam Wiechmann Hotel Armada Hotel Art Gallery Hotel Asterisk Hotel
82 I Rush on Amsterdam
Budget Hotel Barbacan Budget Hotel Flipper City Hotel Cordial Hotel Family Hotel Verdi Hoksbergen Hotel Hotel 83 Hotel Adolesce Hotel de Gerstekorrel Hotel de Munck Hotel Diann Hotel Freeland Hotel Hegra Amsterdam Centre Hotel Hermitage Amsterdam Hotel Iris Hotel Kap Hotel Max Hotel Monopole&Appartementen Hotel Old Quarter Hotel Parkzicht Hotel Plantage Hotel Rembrandt Hotel Sipermann Hotel Washington ITC Hotel Koopermoolen Poet Hotel Amsterdam Water Front
In the lobby of the following Hotels Sphinx Hotel
3-STAR HOTELS Amstel Botel Amsterdam House Hotel Eureka Best Western Dam Square Inn Best western Leidse Square Hotel Bellevue Hotel Borgmann Villa Hotel Boutique Hotel Maxime Delta Hotel City Centre Floris France Hotel Hampshire Hotel Beethoven Hampshire Hotel – Lancaster Amsterdam Hampshire Hotel Theatre District - Amsterdam Hampshire Hotel Prinsengracht Hem Hotel Hotel Aalders Hotel Alexander Hotel Alfa Plantage Hotel Amstelzicht Hotel Arena Hotel Blyss Hotel Bronckhorst Hotel Casa 400 Amsterdam Hotel CC Hotel Central Park Hotel Citadel Hotel D’Amsterdam Hotel Europa 92 Hotel Luxer Hotel Nes Hotel Nieuw Slotania Hotel V Hotel van Gogh Hotel Zandbergen Ibis Amsterdam Airport Jupiter Hotel Meiniger Hotel Amsterdam City West NL-Hotel Museumplein
NL-Hotel district Leidseplein Nova Hotel Amsterdam Owl Hotel Pa Rembrandt Classic RobertRamon Remco Hotel Amsterdam City West Sandton Hotel de Filosoof Singel Hotel The Bridge Hotel The Concert Hotel The Times Hotel Tulip Inn Amsterdam Centre Tulip Inn Amsterdam Riverside rk Inn by Radisson Amsterdam - Airport Prins Hendrik Prinsenhotel Qbic Hotel WTC Amsterdam
In the lobby of the following Hotels A-train Hotel Bastion Hotel Amsterdam Centrum - Southwest Campanile Hotel & Restaurant Amsterdam South - East Hotel Sint Nicolaas Hotel the Exchange Ibis Amsterdam Centre Ibis Amsterdam City Stopera Ibis Amsterdam City West Lloyd Hotel
Spring 2013
造 329,-
DELIVERY WITHIN 120 MINUTES
T +31 611 77 33 31
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All
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De Bijenkorf is the leading shopping destination in Amsterdam. This luxury department store offers the world’s most exclusive brands, such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Gucci. Come and visit our store on Dam Square in Amsterdam