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CHEESE? CLOGS? Wooden buildings, water and... wind!

NIGHT WATCH Rembrandt in the new Rijksmuseum

GABLE STONES Each with its own story

If you love flowers, visit the zoo.

175 years of Artis Royal Zoo in Amsterdam

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For all those interested in traditional crafts and trades – especially when they are brought together in old, wooden buildings CITY MAP

THE ‘NIGHT WATCH’ IN A NEW SETTING

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After 10 years of renovation, the Rijksmuseum welcomes the world with open arms

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A TASTING HOUSE WITHOUT SEATS Please bend forward, purse your lips and slurp the first sip.

Only then should you pick up the glass...

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STONES GABLE h Each wit ry sto its own 18-06-13

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OUR COVER • Yes, they are typical Dutch – windmills. They are used for sawing timber, milling corn, pumping

DOCUMENTS FROM THE PAST

water...– see p. 6 (Photography Henry Salman)

There is always something special and intriguing about all those gable stones

THE COCKTAIL BARS ARE COMING

Visit our website www.CityRush.nl

Amsterdam currently ranks among the world’s top cocktail cities, so something must be going on here

A MARKET? YES, WHY NOT?!

Stroll around and perhaps mingle with some true Amsterdamers, try some local delicacies, watch the people go by...

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26 SHOPPING

18 WHAT’S IN STORE

60 HIP & HOT

Get a taste of what’s happening the coming months Interested in a terrace hit? Or do you prefer a high-ranking Dutch watch?

RUSH ON AMSTERDAM IS AN EHAM publication ADDRESS P.O. Box 29 1616 ZG Hoogkarspel The Netherlands T 0228 – 85 57 25 E info@rush.nl W www.rush.nl SALES Arthur van der Zwan T 0652 – 69 93 95 E sales@rush.nl

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A fine taste of Amsterdam? Go to ‘De Pijp’, this lively and trendy neighbourhood

64 ARTS & CULTURE

Amsterdam is about paintings, music, sculpture and much more

Yes, Amsterdam has to offer all kinds of culinary highlights

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Robert van der Zwan T 0653 – 31 63 74 E editor@rush.nl ART DIRECTOR Peter Leeuwerink EDITORS Lizet Deutekom, Constanze Fluhme, Robin Glendenning (English language editor), Wilag Kater, Henry Salman, Carla van Splunteren, Evert Stel (photographer)

PRINTED BY Moderna (Belgium) COVER PHOTOGRAPH Henry Salman Subscriptions: ¤ 14 a year (shipping costs excluded) please send your address to: info@rush.nl Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without the publisher’s written permission (c) 2013

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Windmills, cheese and clogs?

There’s more to it than that 6 I Rush on Amsterdam

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It Is, somewhere In AprIl, Another one of those typIcAl Dutch DAys. A DrIzzle DescenDs from the low clouDs AnD people hAve the hooDs of theIr rAIncoAts up. fortunAtely, though, It Is Also A typIcAlly InternAtIonAl DAy, wIth beAmIng fAces from JApAn, chInA, russIA AnD, of course, western europe.

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FEATURE

Text & Photography Henry Salman

Previous pages The Zaanse Schans is experiencing in the present the life of the past.

Right page Holland is water land, so you cannot avoid the ‘polder mills’ (a polder is a reclaimed piece of land). But wind-driven technology accomplished much more than the drainage of land. How about sawing timber and milling corn?

You

can hear shades and nuances of English; the Canadians and Australians seem to have turned out en masse. Coaches with beautiful lettering and the most mysterious registration plates find themselves a spot in the car park. It is, in short, a day out at the Zaanse Schans, the cream of the crop for all those interested in a historical collection of traditional crafts and trades, brought together in old, wooden buildings.

The 'Zaanse Schans' and the neighbouring Zaans Museum are an absolute must-see for visitors to Amsterdam and the Netherlands if they want to spend a day learning about old Dutch windmills, picturesque houses and traditional workshops. Here, you can experience life in a time long gone, when the Zaan region started to become famous for its cocoa, coffee and cake. The Zaan region, a colourful area just north of Amsterdam, and to a lesser extent the North Holland Canal – 80 kilometres long and opened in 1824 – were and still are vitally important lifelines to Amsterdam’s industrial and commercial success. It’s no wonder that the Zaanse Schans lies next to the water.

HollAnd is wATER lAnd Holland is water land. The Dutch are renowned the world over for their creativity and inventiveness when it comes to water management. Windmills and pumping stations were built in order to reclaim land and keep water levels in North Holland safe. Later, the windmills, or, to be more precise, the power of the wind harnessed by their sails, were used by craftsmen in their production processes. So the Zaanse Schans has sawmills and paint

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mills, but also spice mills and oil mills. In other words, even back then the climatological circumstances were exploited to the full. How typically Dutch!

TRAnspoRTing windmills The Zaanse Schans is a museum of museums, a colourful collection of places where you can experience life, industrial life in particular, as it used to be. The Schans (meaning bulwark) is, in fact, not original. It has been rebuilt on the initiative of the population, who wanted to preserve and pass on the area’s heritage. For like everywhere else, the Zaan region went through a period of modernisation and redevelopment.

To accommodate plans for the Zaanse Schans, the local municipality ‘donated’ a sizable piece of land to the project. Windmills were wrapped up, loaded onto flatbed trailers, sometimes even lifted over power lines using huge cranes, before being carefully placed along the banks of the river De Zaan and unwrapped again. The same is true of the many wooden houses and other historical structures, though some of those arrived over the water. Always, though, under the watchful eyes of enthusiasts who wanted to see these feats of transportation from up close.

AgE-old cRAFTs in THE pREsEnT The result is a true museological reserve, where Dutch and foreign visitors alike can come to get a proper idea of what Holland has been like over the past three centuries. And not just from the outside. The interiors of

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FEATURE

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FEATURE

1. At the Zaans Museum, you get an impression of how cocoa and biscuits gave the entire region a huge industrial impulse.

2. Footwear for all: clogs in all sizes but only one shape… the clog shape!

3. And for food, this archaic, 17th century environment is perfect, too. Fortunately, all the dishes, pancakes, lunches and dinners have been prepared more recently and are therefore wonderfully fresh!

4. Warmer than the welcome you get from these Dutch cheese maids at cheese factory Catharina is hard to come by.

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the windmills, shops, houses and other structures have been fully restored, too, so that the buildings function just as they would have done in days of old. You can see, for instance, the first grocer’s shop belonging to Albert Heijn. Today, Albert Heijn is a huge, multinational supermarket chain that still has its head offices right here in Zaandam.

ORdinARy And wElcOming Perhaps one of the most special things about the Zaanse Schans is that it is not just an open-air museum, it is actually a perfectly ordinary neighbourhood, too, where ordinary people live and work. Well, maybe not altogether ordinary. They are used to visitors and welcome these visitors, whatever their nationality and language, with the greatest imaginable hospitality. And, of course, the visitors are treated to what they expect from Holland and what characterises Holland: windmills, clogs and cheese. Only the tulips: for those they need to go to the flower seas of De Keukenhof in Lisse, south of Amsterdam.

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SAwmill? yES, bUT AlSO An Oil mill!

The six beautifully named windmills on the Zaanse Schans reflect Dutch glory. Sawmill Het Jonge Schaap (‘The Young Sheep’) was dismantled in 1942. The smock mill, the kind with a cap at the top that can be turned into the wind, was redundant and stood in the way of development. But with the help of old drawings and new computer technology, the windmill was rebuilt and restored to its former splendour in 2006.

Oil mill De Zoeker (‘The Searcher’) is on the national heritage list and was used first as a draining mill and later as a paint and oil mill. It was bought by the municipality of Zaandijk in the 1950s and completely restored. In 1968, the windmill was spectacularly lifted over the overhead cables of the railway line and given its current place on the Zaanse Schans.

A perfectly ordinary neighbourhood

HUgE vARiETy OF pAncAkES After visitors have feasted their senses on the windmills, it is time for something to eat. Restaurant De Kraai (‘The Crow’) serves a huge variety of pancakes.

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For everything from a cup of coffee to a full, three-course meal, go to Restaurant De Hoop op d’Swarte Walvis (‘The hope for a black whale’). This establishment is located in a combination of an early 18th century, WestZaan orphanage, a pretty little merchant’s house and a warehouse. It’s a culinary and historical delight.

MuseuM of Dutch clockworks Certainly worth a visit is the Museum van het Nederlandse Uurwerk (‘Museum of Dutch Clockworks’). The museum is aptly located behind an 18th century Dutch gable. Inside, a handsome collection of Dutch timepieces, including grandfather clocks from Zaandam, The Hague, Amsterdam and Friesland, represent the development of the Dutch movement from 1500 to 1850. The Zaans Museum paints a broader picture of the history of the Zaan region. The biscuits and ‘girls of ’ Verkade, world famous in the Netherlands, are all at the Verkade Pavilion. cheese anD clog Making At cheese factory De Catharinahoeve – a meticulously built replica of an East-Zaan cheese farm and a monu-

Summer 2013

mental house – you can witness one of the regular demonstrations of how real Dutch cheese is made.

And the clog factory, domiciled in a replica of the former grain and snuff warehouse De Vrede (‘The Peace’) from 1750, still produces new clogs to this day. Although, saying that the factory produces them suggests some automation in the process, but making clogs is in fact still a completely manual task. The Clog Museum has one of the largest and most beautiful collections of the Netherlands. And what could be more Dutch than clogs?

Water, perhaps. And there’s plenty of that at the Zaanse Schans, too. So in addition to seeing the Zaanse Schans on foot (or clogs, if you choose) from its banks, you can also experience it from the water on the Zaanhopper, a boat. In short, the Zaanse Schans is the springboard to a living past.

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1. At sawmill Het Jonge Schaap (‘The Young Sheep’), the millers demonstrate how, back then and to this day, wind power transformed the thickest tree trunks into beautifully straight planks.

2. The Museum of Dutch Clockworks is located in a building with an 18th century Dutch gable.

How fitting!

3. Ice cream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream. It doesn’t get much more Dutch than the Zaanse Schans, but your ice cream may come from... Italy (for example).

Further information? www.zaanseschans.nl

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City News

© Leander_Lammertink

© Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel

City News Royal status for Concertgebouw

Amsterdam Gay Pride equals fun

‘Gable route’ in the inner city

“the best iNstrumeNt of the orChestra”

CaNal Pride Parade is oNe of the highlights

startiNg PoiNt? the reNaissaNCe hotel

On 11 April, 2013, Amsterdam’s legendary Concertgebouw was exactly 125 years old. On that day, Queen Beatrix afforded this world-famous concert hall ‘royal’ status. The Concertgebouw is considered to be among the three most important concert halls in the world, thanks to its unrivalled acoustics and continuous, high-quality programming. Former chief conductor, Bernard Haitink, once commended its Grote Zaal (Large Hall) for being “the best instrument of the orchestra”.

Amsterdam Gay Pride is a huge party and an impressive statement promoting the emancipation of the homosexual, lesbian bisexual and transgender community. In 2013, Amsterdam Gay Pride will take place between Saturday 27 July and Sunday 4 August. Its highlight will be the Canal Pride Parade on Saturday 3 August.

The Renaissance Hotel organises a gable route through the city centre to show visitors the characteristic gables of which Amsterdam has so many: always tall and slender, often richly decorated.

In addition to the announcement of the concert hall’s royal status, the large golden lyre was replaced on the roof of the building. To celebrate its anniversary, this 3.5 metre tall symbol of the concert hall has been given a new layer of rolled gold comprising no less than 3,750 leaves. And of course, the festive year wouldn’t be complete without a special, celebratory concert programme, details of which can be found on the website. www.concertgebouw.nl

This year’s theme is ‘Reflect’, whereby Amsterdam will look back upon the origins of the LGBT movement (LGBT = lesbian-gay-bisexual-transgender) and the importance of being able to be open about your sexual preferences. The Gay Pride festival offers a whole host of events in both homo and hetero locations - from dance events to film festivals to sports meetings and much, much more.

Attracting almost 500,000 visitors, Amsterdam Gay Pride is one of the largest ‘Pride’ events in the world.

Moreover, Amsterdam is the only city in the world to celebrate Gay Pride with a lavish and exuberant boat parade, including a huge flotilla of smaller boats in its wake that add even more fun to the relaxed atmosphere.

You can walk the gable route independently using a brochure compiled by the Renaissance Hotel to guide you. One can be obtained from the hotel’s concierge desk. Even more interesting, would be to choose the option of walking the route in the company of city historian Walter Schoonenberg.

Specialised in Amsterdam’s town centre, he can let you in on all the secrets behind the gables and other works of art.

The route starts at the striking Koepelkerk (Domed Church), adjacent to the Renaissance Hotel. www.renaissanceamsterdam.nl

www.amsterdamgaypride.nl 12 I Rush on Amsterdam

Summer 2013

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CITY NEWS

‘24H’ in South is a surprise

Be an astronaut Let’s go to work on this sailor in a tomb?

plEaSE bE oN ThE lookouT oN 22 aNd 23 JuNE

ETruSCaN hISTorY WITh... haNdS oN ExpErIENCE

prEparE ThE CaNoN, You NEvEr kNoW

‘24H’ is the collective name of all kinds of events and activities taking place in the five regions of the city this year as part of the ‘400-Year Amsterdam’ celebrations. In the centre, the east, the south, the west and the north, each 24-hour event will start at midday on Saturday and finish at midday on Sunday.

In its NewMediaLab, visitors to Amsterdam’s archaeological Allard Pierson Museum can go on a virtual journey of discovery through a famous Etruscan tomb. The Regolini-Galassi tomb, one of the best known tombs of the pre-Roman Etruscan culture, has been digitally reconstructed on the basis of a 3D-scan of the real thing.

Amsterdam’s Maritime Museum (Scheepvaartmuseum), as well as its star attraction, the 18th century cargo ship Amsterdam, have recently undergone extensive renovation and are now the perfect backdrop for all kinds of stories from the past. Together with Rinus de Raat, his mate Vlo and, of course, their mums and dads, children can experience the most fantastic adventures here.

The third edition of 24H will take place in Amsterdam South on 22 and 23 June. For 24 hours, this part of town will showcase all it has to offer.

Whether you’re a true Amsterdamer, have only lived here for a short while, or are merely visiting: theatres, museums, clubs, shops and other attractions will open their doors to the public. And there will be plenty of surprises in store for young and old: from the green Vondelpark to the business district Zuidas (Southern Axis): see the magnificent plenty and variety of Amsterdam South as you’ve never seen it before.

With the help of the latest in sensory technology, you can make hand and arm movements to navigate the tomb. As you do so, information about the various objects you discover is provided in three languages: Dutch, English and Italian.

www.iamsterdam.com

allardpiersonmuseum.nl

The internationally acclaimed ‘Etruscanning’ project was successfully launched in 2011 at the Museo Gregoriano Etrusco, Vatican City, Rome. ‘Etrusscanning’ can now also be experienced right here in Amsterdam, at the Allard Pierson Museum on Oude Turfmarkt.

The Amsterdam, for instance, is a three-master on which a lot of work needs to be done: hauling, loading, preparing the canon to be fired, not to mention the assault course (what that is, is something your children will find out in due course).

And of course, like any ship, she needs a real captain. Fortunately, there’s a hammock in which you can rest for a while and have your picture taken...

From Saturday 6 July through Sunday 18 August, there are lots of extra activities for young and old alike. One of them focuses on ‘rumbling tummies’. www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl

REAL MASTERS, DARING SHOWS

From Tuesday 2 until Saturday 13 July, Julidans 2013 (July Dance 2013) will bring internationally acclaimed dance companies to Amsterdam. The 23rd edition of Julidans offers daring, trendsetting and innovative performances by the world’s dancing greats. But the dance companies taking part will also be involving young, talented choreographers, who will present personal, open-hearted tales all of their own. Two examples will give you a good impression. The first is Tragédie by Olivier Dubois, a poem centred on the tragic fact that being human not necessarily makes us human. The second is iTMOi (‘In the Mind of Igor’), a voyage of discovery through the work of composer Igor Stravinsky. www.julidans.nl

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© Tom Elst

© FotoFestival Naarden

CITY NEWS

Amsterdam Dance Event

Canal gardens for all to see

Please don’t stay here

JuST ThE ThINg If You’vE goT ThaT SWINg

opEN oN 14, 15 aNd 16 JuNE 2013

duTCh phoTographY oN ThE movE

The 18th edition of the Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE) will take place from 16 to 20 October 2013.

The ADE is the most important event worldwide dedicated to dance in combination with electronic music. And this year again, the festival expects to grow significantly. ‘ADE Playground’, for instance, a part of the programme successfully launched last year, will be much more extensive and its unique attractions will include films, exhibitions and special shopping opportunities. The organisers expect some 200,000 visitors to the festival itself, and 4,000 to the special conference on electronic music and dance.

The third weekend of June each year heralds the Amsterdam Open Garden Days. On 14, 15 and 16 June 2013, some 30 canal gardens will be open to the general public. Each year, the Open Garden Days are organised around a specific theme, which unsurprisingly this year is ‘400 years canals’, as construction of the canal ring of Amsterdam started in 1613. All the gardens will be open for three days from 10:00 until 17:00.

From Saturday 18 May through Sunday 23 June, the town of Naarden, just outside Amsterdam, will host the Foto Festival Naarden 2013. This bi-annual festival attracts tens of thousands of photography enthusiasts to some ten locations throughout the town. The theme of the 13th edition of this cultural event is ‘Don’t Stay Here – Dutch Photography on the Move’.

With performances by 1,700 Dutch and international artists, key-note speakers from all over the world, 350 events and a record number of 75 stages throughout the city, the 2012 edition emphasised the global success of Dutch DJs who combine dance and electronic music. www.iamsterdam.com

There is no need to make reservations. Tickets can be purchased at selected gardens, such as the Museum Van Loon on Keizersgracht 672. If you would rather purchase tickets in advance, please buy a voucher online at www.iamsterdam.com.

A list of the participating gardens will be published as soon as possible. Your ticket grants you access to all the participating gardens and is valid for all three days. The price of a ticket is € 15.

In ‘Don’t Stay Here’, Dutch photographers shed light on their view of lands foreign. Derivative themes this year include ‘Basic Needs’, ‘Save Our Souls’ (safety and security), ‘I Hate Love’ (family, love and sex), ‘Beautiful World’ (beauty, music and art) and Transcendent ‘ (the power of spirituality).

At the festival, you will be able to enjoy guided tours, public interviews with famous photographers, a photo-bookshop, an exhibition on the Kees Scherer Prize for the best photo book and the presentation of the Akademie Vogue Award Fotostyling.

www.iamsterdam.com www.fotofestivalnaarden.nl

OLD INHABITANTS OF THE CANAL RING

To celebrate the 400th anniversary of Amsterdam’s canal ring, four canal museums, domiciled in four canal mansions, have compiled a collection of stories about their former occupants in the guide Grachten Verhalen (Canal Stories). Apart from being a great little guide for a walking tour of the canals, the book is also a tour of the four-century history of four canal mansions. Each mansion describes a different century using different characters. With Grachten Verhalen to guide you, you will wander into the past and present of Amsterdam’s canal ring. The guide costs € 2 and is available from participating museums and Amsterdam Museum. www.bijbelsmuseum.nl

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The story of

FROMANTEEL WATCHES. Fromanteel is named after a famed Dutch clockmaker from the 17th century who used to own a modest clockmakers workshop at the Dam Square in Amsterdam.

‘The Amsterdam’ watch is crafted to commemorate the place of birth of the brand and its namesake. On the champagnesilver finished dial the exact coordinates of the former workshop are displayed.

A well thought understated designed watch, refined for the office, and sporty for weekends away. Its price? Not what you’d normally expect from a Swiss timepiece.

More info: www.fromanteel-watches.com Price: € 379, -

MAX IMAA L HOUDBAAR TOT: 31 DEC 2014

© Emke Idema

CITY NEWS

Dam square and ‘Over het the Royal Palace IJ festival 2013’

Classical music = canal music

400 YEarS aT ThE hEarT of amSTErdam

a fESTIval NorTh of ThE rIvEr IJ (SaY ‘EYE’)

dIffErENT loCaTIoNS, INdoorS aS WEll aS ouT

Each summer, the Amsterdam’s Royal Palace on Dam Square organises a temporary exhibition on various historical aspects of the palace. This year, from 28 June until 5 September, you can take in the exhibition ‘The Palace and the Dam, 400 years at the heart of Amsterdam’s canals’.

Over het IJ Festival’, a festival north of the river IJ (pronounced almost the same as ‘eye’), will take place this year from 4 until 14 July. It is the major summer festival of Amsterdam North. Here, you can escape the daily drag and treat yourself to theatre, live music, DJs, fantastic food… The ‘Over het IJ Festival’ is 11 days devoted to tomorrow’s talent.

From 16 through 25 August, the historic heart of Amsterdam will be the scene of the Grachtenfestival Amsterdam (Amsterdam Canal Festival), a ten-day event dedicated to classical music, which will be performed in special locations. Outdoors, for instance, the ‘Grachtenfestival’ will feature stages built in the canals and on boats. And indoors, there will be plenty of music to be heard in the most gorgeous, 17th century canal mansions.

The Dam is the Netherlands’ most famous and most recognisable square. It has been an important meeting point for Amsterdamers, the Dutch in general and foreign visitors since the 17th century.

It is a venue for royal events, popular festivities, debate, resistance and protest, remembrance (the Second World War), as well as a centre for governmental power and trade activities.

During the 17th century Dutch Golden Age, the Dam was the beating heart of the expanding ring of canals. Many trade and business deals were sealed here. Palace and square still form the geographical centre of town and arguably, the figurative centre of the country.

One recurring part of the ‘Over het IJ Festival’ is the ‘Sea Container Programme’, featuring recently graduated dramatists who organise mini productions in sea containers. The festival organisers have given them topical, often controversial social themes on which to base their productions, but how they are fleshed out is entirely up to them: a poem, a song, a play, a story, dance… Inside each container, you can expect a unique experience laid on by undiscovered talent.

The main events of the festival will take place in and around an old shipyard, the NDSM-werf, (werf = yard). A ferry will take you directly to it from behind Central Station. You’ll be at the heart of the festival within ten minutes.

www.paleisamsterdam.nl

The Grachtenfestival will offer young musical talent a podium to take the next step in musical careers. Last year’s theme, ‘Love’, made the 15th edition a huge success: some 50,000 visitors from the Netherlands and far beyond visited the festival.

The various open-air concerts are free, but there are also concerts for which you will need a ticket. The programme and tickets can be obtained through the Grachtenfestival website, or from Iamsterdam’s ticket shop. www.grachtenfestival.nl www.iamsterdam.com

www.overhetij.nl

AMSTERDAM FASHION WEEK

Amsterdam Fashion Week (AIFW) started out in 2004 as an initiative to put Amsterdam on the map as a sparkling and internationally oriented destination for fashion. Twice a year, the AIFW is the place to be for the Dutch fashion world, with a full schedule of catwalk shows, trade fairs, presentations, lectures and parties. Although the catwalk shows during AIFW are on invitation only, there are lots of great events in Amsterdam during the fashion week which are open to the public. The coming AIFW will be from 6-16 July, including a special fashion weekend on 6 and 7 July. www.amsterdamfashionweek.com

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The Rijksmuseum welcomes the world After ten yeArs of renovAtion, the whole world is welcome once more in A fresh, bright rijksmuseum. rembrAndt’s mAster crAftsmAnship hAs obliged the rijksmuseum to do much more thAn simply restore his fAmous pAinting the ‘night wAtch’.

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FEATURE

Text Wilag Kater Photography Rijksmuseum

Previous pages The completely renovated atrium in the museum: grand as a cathedral, but at the same time bright and without frills… (Photo: Pedro-Pegenaute) Right page (top) The Rijksmuseum in 1895: the grandeur is selfevident, but it seems that income levels are rather modest... Courtesy of Creative Commons.

Right page (below) The Company of captain Frans Banning Cocq and lieutenant Willem van Ruytenburch preparing to march out, more famously known as the 'Night Watch', by Rembrandt Harmensz. van Rijn, 1642, courtesy of Rijksmuseum Amsterdam.

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front door of the museum, which now lies in the heart of the city, faced a typical Dutch polder landscape when the Rijksmuseum was completed in 1885. The governors of the city at the time carefully chose the location for their new museum with the future in mind. Back then, at the end of the 19th century, the museum stood a little lost on the edge of town in the polder. Now, the Rijksmuseum – often called simply Het Rijks – has become the essential link between old and new. It stands between the old centre of town with its 400-year-old canals and the newer, chic ‘outside district’ on the other side of the Museumplein.

UpRoAR: no bicylEs AllowEd The best evidence of its function as a link in the city is perhaps the uproar caused among the local population when, during the renovation work, the bicycle thoroughfare beneath the building was closed. It caught the administrators somewhat by surprise, but they responded quickly by changing their plans. After the renovation work, Amsterdamers would be able to continue to cycle through the heart of Amsterdam’s museological cathedral.

A cAThEdRAl in AmsTERdAm The term ‘cathedral’ is not even such a strange choice in this case. The Rijksmuseum’s architecture is exceptional, its significance as vehicle for national cultural heritage is huge and its art treasures are world famous. The Rijksmuseum owns and chaperones Rembrandt van Rijn’s masterpiece, the Night Watch, for instance. The whole world

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knows that and it’s why the whole world comes to the Museumplein.

The huge number of visitors was one of the reasons ten years ago to remove the Night Watch from its old, somewhat dated environment. So now, centuries after the artist’s death, Rembrandt’s master craftsmanship has obliged the Rijksmuseum to do much more than simply restore his famous painting. The master commands all-round respect once again as he sees his work being replaced in a fresh and modernised Rijksmuseum.

Un-dUTch ARchiTEcTURE Architect Pierre Cuypers, the Rijksmuseum’s original architect, seems to have wanted visitors – surrounded by so much stunning beauty – to instinctively cast their gaze upwards towards the high, bright expanse of the galleries. Heaven on earth? The splendid size and spaciousness of the Rijksmuseum are almost un-Dutch. Cuypers’ architecture and opinions are still controversial today. He made a stand in the ongoing debate about the meaning of architecture in relation to religion and community spirit.

In this millennium, the Spanish renovation architects Antonio Cruz and Antonio Ortiz have paid tribute to Cuypers’ cathedral-like design. They removed all the superfluous frills from the past from the galleries and brought them back to Cuypers’ open, core architecture.

So now, as soon as the visitor enters the building, he is immediately overwhelmed by the beauty of a bright and, indeed, cathedral-like building. And should so much culture all at once become too much, outside in the fresh city

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1. Self-portrait by Vincent van Gogh, 1887, courtesy of Rijksmuseum Amsterdam.

2. While the ten-year renovation work was done, the Rijksmuseum was open as usual, even until dusk set in… (Photo: John Lewis Marshall) 3. The splendid size and spaciousness of the Rijksmuseum are almost un-Dutch. (Photo: Jannes Linders)

air awaits a completely re-landscaped garden where any visitor can recuperate.

ExTEnsivE collEcTion The Rijksmuseum certainly deserves the title ‘Cultural Cathedral of the Netherlands’. In 80 galleries exhibiting some 8,000 objects, the museum tells the tale of 800 years of Dutch culture. With its collection, the ‘Rijks’ offers an extensive and representative cross-section of the Netherlands’ rich history and cultural wealth.

FAmoUs pAinTings As a cathedral of art, the Rijksmuseum is home primarily to works of the great Dutch painting tradition. In addition to Rembrandt, a number of his famous 17th century contemporaries feature prominently, too, such as Frans Hals, Johannes Vermeer and the later (Peter Paul) Rubens. From the 19th century, you can admire work by such greats as Vincent van Gogh, the Maris brothers and the esteemed colourist (George Hendrik) Breitner.

Fortunately, the 20th century has now been given space, too, with a new department where you can take in works by, among others, the Dutch master painter Karel Appel. He strikes a fittingly open final chord in the 400-year tradition of Dutch painting on display.

A cathedral of art

The country owes its cultural wealth to the fact that over the centuries, it discovered the world, sailing the seas, trading with lands afar and sometimes waging war to make them its own. It could be said that the Dutch bring with them a broad, inquisitive culture that has explored, (re-)invented and (re-)designed all kinds of things. For this reason, the historical collection of the Rijksmuseum is very extensive indeed: from famous masterpieces to wondrous décor pieces and furniture; from single items of every-day use to fully styled interiors, often

22 I Rush on Amsterdam

from the Netherlands, but much from far beyond the country’s borders, too. The reason for this, of course, is the huge role of the Dutch colonial past in its culture. A dedicated Asia Pavilion has been created to reflect this, for instance.

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Feature

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CompaCt abundanCe In short, the Rijksmuseum is much more than an ‘ordinary’ Amsterdam museum. Very few places in the world bring together so many cultural qualities in such a diverse and compact manner and in such cathedral-like surroundings. In a sense, this compact abundance is typical of the small country of the Netherlands as a whole.

All this and more makes a visit to this Amsterdam cathedral very worthwhile. Now, and in the future. The new Rijks will be ready to welcome you.

Tip: in the high season, visit the Rijksmuseum after 16:00 to avoid the worst of the crowds (the high season is from April through June).

Please note: from January 2013, e-tickets are no longer available and (group) reservations can no longer be made online. Entrance tickets can only be bought in the museum itself. Tickets for the new Rijksmuseum will be available from mid-March.

Where and When?

The museum is also free to holders of a Museumkaart, holders of Rijksmuseum School Cards, members of ICOM, ICOMOS, UNESCO, the Rembrandt Association, KOG, Vrienden van de Aziatische Kunst (‘Friends of Asian Art’) and Vrienden van het Rijksmuseum (‘Friends of the Rijksmuseum’).

address: Rijksmuseum, Jan Luijkenstraat 1, 1071 CJ Amsterdam, T 020 674 7000. www.rijksmuseum.nl opening hours: The opening hours are as follows: daily from 9:00 till 18:00.

The museum’s ticket counter closes at 17:30.

Summer 2013

prices: Adults € 14, children under 18 free.

1. Woodwork from the interior of the building at Nieuwe Gracht 74 in Haarlem. The town of Haarlem gave its name to the New York district of Harlem. Courtesy of Rijksmuseum Amsterdam.

2. ‘In the Month of July’: a Windmill on a Polder Waterway, Paul Joseph Constantin Gabriël, approx. 1889, courtesy of Rijksmuseum Amsterdam.

Free WiFi is available inside the museum. public transport: From Central Station, trams 2 and 5 stop at Hobbemastraat; from Sloterdijk Station, tram 12 stops at the Concertgebouw.

Rush on Amsterdam I 23

what’s in store MEXICAN JEWELLERY FINDS ITS WAY UP NORTH The jewels of the flamboyant Mexican designer Daniel Espinosa are extremely popular in North and South America. Now, they are available in the Netherlands, too. The elegant collection, consisting of rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings are 22-karat gold, bronze or silver. All jewellery is handmade according to ancient Mexican craftsmanship. Prices range from ¤ 50 to ¤ 500. www.danielespinosa.com

ITALIAN MIX? TERRACE HIT! Aperol is a creation of the Venetian brothers Barbieri, dating back to 1919. Their surprisingly light liqueur – a herbal distillate of gentian and orange – has a remarkably fresh, bittersweet flavour and a vibrant orange glow, yet it contains no more than 11 % alcohol. Cheers! www.aperol.com

HIGH-QUALITY AND HANDMADE SHAWLS ‘Piece Of Mine’, known as POM Amsterdam, was founded by the Dutch sisters Elizabeth and Violet Lotgering in 2011. POM Amsterdam stands for high-quality, handmade shawls for every occasion. The shawls are available from ¤ 39.95 at department store Bijenkorf, on board KLM flights, every first weekend of the month in a pop-up store at Haarlemmerdijk 41 and, of course, through the webshop. www.pom-amsterdam.nl/shop

ROMANTIC LOOK WITH CHARACTER If you are looking for the finest ladies’ fashion, Van Ravenstein is the place to be. Very beautiful and very popular this summer is the collection by Dries van Noten. He combined chequered and flower prints to create a romantic look with a grunge (let’s say solid) touch.

Van Ravenstein, Keizersgracht 359, Amsterdam, www.van-ravenstein.nl

SWISS WATCHES AT A HIGH LEVEL Otumm Watches is a Swiss brand that firmly stands for ‘Lifestyle with a high level’. Otumm is the engagement of the sensation for freedom, speed and luxury – and this on the basis of today’s technology with a taste for the classical, the modesty and the nobility of the

24 I Rush on Amsterdam

traditional timepiece. In 2012, Otumm’s first watches have become reality in cooperation with Swiss and Dutch designers. What’s more: these fine watches are now available in our Rush webshop. Always a place to be! www.CityRush.nl

Summer 2013

NECKLACES? NO, THE LANGUAGE OF LOVE

WHATS IN STORE

Looking for engraved leather necklaces with elements of silver? Then have a look at the Sweet Babylon Collection by Gem Kingdom. The collection speaks the language of love. Whether you are thinking of your mother, brother, sister or boyfriend... This collection is a perfect mix of materials: acrylic ornaments in a lively ‘mother of pearl’ imitation, combined with garnet, bronze or sterling silver.

Gem Kingdom, Huidenstraat 13, Amsterdam (in the ‘Nine Little Streets’ area), www.gemkingdomshop.nl

FLATS IN THE SOFTEST LEATHER AND SUEDE This season Betsy Palmer, your shop for any kind of footwear, offers a wide variety of shapes and colours for flats in the softest leather and suede. And the rest of the summer collection is pretty irresistible, too: pleasant pumps, sensual sandals, lovely loafers and snazzy, stooped boots.

Betsy Palmer, Rokin 9-15 and Van Woustraat 46, both Amsterdam, www.betsypalmer.comm

A SHORTER LENGTH OF YOUR SURF TRUNKS Is the longer length of most surf trunks a drag on your legs, making them less comfortable to wear when you’re active? The shorter length of the trunks by Orlebar Brown is the number one reason that they are sold at de9heren (‘The Nine Gentlemen’) this summer. And they come in a growing variety of colours and patterns. The shop is located in one of Amsterdam’s most popular shopping areas: the ‘Nine Little Streets’. de9heren, Berenstraat 22 A, Amsterdam (in the ‘Nine Little Streets’ district), www.de9heren.nl

EUROPEAN WATCH OF THE YEAR Christiaan van der Klaauw has won the European Watch of the Year 2012 competition with its Real Moon 1980, price from ¤ 27,750. The watch has received particular praise for its unique combination of astronomical features: a 3D moon phase, an eclipse indicator, as well as one for the declination of the sun.

Amsterdam Watch Company, Reestraat 3, Amsterdam (in the ‘Nine Little Streets’), www.awco.nl

SEIZING THE DAY WITH A HAPPY FRAGRANCE Smiling at angels, bursting with joy, opening your eyes, looking up to the sky, lending your ears, taking inspiration, offering a hand, spreading your arms? Yes, you might have guessed it: seizing the day is what you do when you use (or give) Jour d’Hermès, the happy fragrance that is the rebirth of femininity. From ¤ 57 for 30 ml

Summer 2013

at Bijenkorf and Hermès stores. www.jourdhermes.com

Rush on Amsterdam I 25

Shopping in designer heaven

Located in the heart of amsterdam’s fashion district and prosperous neighbourhood ‘Zuid’, p.c. hooftstraat (or ‘pc’ as it is caLLed by LocaLs) truLy offers everything your heart desires. from upscaLe design houses such as chaneL, gucci, Louis vuitton, giorgio armani, hermes, vaLentino, burberry or michaeL Kors to muLti-brand stores offering a fine seLection of very many sought-after brands.

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Summer Summer2009 2013

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Rush on Amsterdam I 27

SHOPPING

Text Constanze Fluhme Photography Peter Leeuwerink and contributors

Previous pages Strong, feminine and stylish: Escada.

Right page P.C. Hooftstraat: a nice mixture of ‘PC Tractors’ and... bikes./

The

street got its name in 1876, in honour of Pieter Corneliszoon Hooft (1581-1647), a poet, drama writer and historian. Nowadays, P.C. Hooftstraat is a playground for the rich and famous, who can be spotted regularly at one of the sidewalk cafes or high end shops. Watch out for the so-called ‘PC Tractors’, the big SUVs that are frequently spotted on P.C. Hooftstraat!

Once a year fashion glossy ‘Grazia’ is featuring the longest free-seated front row catwalk of the Netherlands (length 350 m) on P.C. Hooftstraat, the ‘PC Catwalk’. The front row offers 1200 seats, which are freely accessible to everyone. 100 models with more than 180 looks are presenting the latest fashion of international brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Lanvin, Etro, Corneliani, Celine or Burberry.

28 I Rush on Amsterdam

All the more reason to take you to what the Dutch consider to be their most famous shopping street. YOU in Amsterdam suggests a fine selection of stores you definitely should consider.

Feminine and stylish? esCada Strong, feminine and stylish, that is what Escada stands for. The German fashion brand was born in 1978 and is famous for the use of strong colours and opulent fabrics. In 2010 the brand was refreshed, which is reflected not only in the fashion items but also in the interior of the stores. The Escada store in Amsterdam opened its doors in 2011. Here you find everything from red carpet wear to beautiful jeans and amazing shoes. A great outfit for every occasion!

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SHOPPING

Bikes and SUV’s meets each other here

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Rush on Amsterdam I 29

SHOPPING

A playground for the rich and famous 2

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1. Where are you? Somewhere in the universe where shoes revolve around you like planets?

At Shoebaloo this is indeed the case.

2. Ermenegildo Zegna’s Boutique, here with some insight into the 2013 collection. Visit the PC Hooftstraat for some ‘hands on’ experience!

3. Timeless elegance at Mulberry...

TrendiesT brands? sHOebaLOO For shoes there’s one address you shouldn’t miss out on: Shoebaloo. Not only because of the amazing choice of designer shoes and handbags, but also because of the unique experience of the interior design of the store, created by the Dutch architects Meijer & Van Schooten. The store on P.C. Hooftstraat sells the trendiest brands for both men and women. It is a true paradise for all shoe lovers, with collections of Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior, Charlotte Olympia, Alexander McQueen, Celine, Dsquared and many more beautiful brands.

HigH fasHiOn? MULberrY The Mulberry store has re-opened after undergoing a complete transformation! From now on, the beautiful iconic handbags, like the famous ‘Bayswater’ or ‘Alexa’, as well as the high fashion collection of amazing clothes, shoes, accessories and more are being presented in a totally new spotlight. The design concept for the store is based on Mulberry’s dynamic new retail 30 I Rush on Amsterdam

3

concept, which reflects the many facets of the brand’s identity: heritage, craftsmanship, modernity and innovation. The store reflects two complementary ideas.

‘The Garden’ is home to high-fashion bags and all of the latest trends in accessories. ‘The Drawing Room’ is a heaven for heritage fans who love a timeless, elegant layout. Mulberry is the perfect place to buy a luxurious gift for a special lady.

genTLeMen? erMenegiLdO Zegna A real gentlemen will always look complete in an outfit of the Italian brand Ermenegildo Zegna. Shopping at the stylish Zegna boutique will give you a lot of pleasure for sure. The splendid shop design by the architects Gianmaria and Roberto Beretta, as well as the use of pure materials, underline the timeless style and subtle elegance of Ermenegildo Zegna’s heritage.

Here you can find Ermenegildo Zegna Couture (amazing suits), Made to Measure and Zegna Sport (leisure wear).

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SHOPPING

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2 premier jeweller? TiFFANY & CO

sexY? AgeNT prOVOCATeur

Over the past two centuries, Tiffany has built an international reputation as a premier jeweller and the ultimate source of gifts for life’s most cherished occasions.

In December 2009, Tiffany & Co opened its first store in the Netherlands, on ‘PC’ that is. If Amsterdam is getting you in the mood to drop the question you will know where to find the ring for this special occasion.

The popular and sexy lingerie brand Agent Provocateur has finally settled in Amsterdam and recently opened their ‘candy store’ for adults on the P.C.Hooftstraat. The classic black-and-powder pink interior and antique furniture in baroque style with soft lighting invites you to try on the most delicate lace sets, sweet baby dolls and racy tights.

eNjOYiNg bubbles? CAFFepC

Agent Provocateur was founded by Joseph Corre and his now ex-wife Serena Rees. Joseph is the son of Vivienne Westwood and the late Malcolm McLaren (former manager of the British punk band ‘The Sex Pistols’). In 1994 the first Agent Provocateur boutique was founded in London’s famous district Soho. Sexy lingerie with an exciting nod soon went like hot cakes.

Finally this great brand of really tasteful and stylish lingerie is also available in the Netherlands!

What’s a shopping day without a glass of champagne at the end of it? The best place to enjoy your bubbles is CaffePC, the place to see and be seen, in a 1970s décor designed by Eric Kuster, with lots of dark brown wood and metallic details. Film actress Demi Moore was thrilled when she first saw it: “I love this place, it’s beautiful, it looks like a picture!” CaffePC offers nice food as well as a bunch of fashion and lifestyle magazines to look into. So give your feet a rest, relax, and enjoy!

Summer 2013

1. Visiting Tiffany & Co in Amsterdam is an experience in itself.

2. Film actress Demi Moore was thrilled when she first saw CaffePC on the P.C. Hooftstraat: “I love this place, it’s beautiful, it looks like a picture!”

3. Black-and-powder pink interior at ‘candy store’ Agent Provocateur.

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SHOPPING

The longest free-seated front row catwalk of the Netherlands

AzzURO

FOUR

If you are looking for a one-stop shop where you can find the perfect outfit for day, night, work or leisure, one of the Azzurro Stores will be your heaven on earth.

KIDS

AZZURRO FASHION GROUP If you are looking for a one-stop shop where you can find the perfect outfit for day, night, work or leisure, one of the Azzurro Stores will be your heaven on earth. Since decades Azzurro, like no other, knows how to dress the Dutch female and her kids.

If you are looking for the leading fashion designers of the moment, like Alexander Wang, Rachel Zoe or Isabel Marant, you’d better be off to Azzurro Due on P.C. Hooftstraat 138. This store is introducing an exciting combination of fashion, design and architecture in a new store concept.

Each of the stores has a contemporary ‘look & feel’ and offers the trendiest collections. If you are looking for uptown chic as well as brands like Tom Ford, Barbara Bui or Christian Louboutin, visit Azzuro on P.C. Hooftstraat 142.

Recently a new store for men has opened its doors. At ‘Four’, stylish men find the labels of the moment, like Balenciaga, Vans Vault or Faliero Sarti. Please visit P.C. Hooftstraat 127.

Looking for brands like Baby Dior, Patrizia Pepe or Tartine et Chocolat for your little one? You can make the look of your children complete at Azzurro Kids on P.C. Hooftstraat 122.

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Summer 2013

SHOPPING

Addresses: Escada P.C. Hooftstraat 43 www.escada.com Shoebaloo P.C. Hooftstraat 80 www.shoebaloo.nl Mulberry P.C. Hoofstraat 46 www.mulberry.com Ermenegildo Zegna Boutique P.C. Hooftstraat 76 www.zegna.com Tiffany & Co P.C. Hooftstraat 86 & 88 www.tiffany.com CaffePC P.C. Hooftstraat 87 www.unlimitedlabel.com

DUE

Agent Provocateur P.C. Hooftstraat 98 www.agentprovocateur.com Azzurro Fashion Group P.C. Hooftstraat 142 (Azzurro) P.C. Hooftstraat 138 (Azzurro Due) P.C. Hooftstraat 127 (Four) P.C. Hooftstraat 122 (Azzurro Kids) www.azzurrofashiongroup.nl

Once a year fashion glossy ‘Grazia’ is featuring the longest freeseated front row catwalk of the Netherlands (length 350 m) on P.C. Hooftstraat, the ‘PC Catwalk’.

Summer 2013

Rush on Amsterdam I 33

www.CityRush.nl a new website for Rush on Amsterdam

in tHis summEr Edition, rusH on AmstErdAm is lAuncHing its nEw wEbsitE: www.cityrusH.nl. tHE sitE will bE tHE primAry rEfErEncE for tourists visiting AmstErdAm wHo wAnt to bEcomE fAmiliAr witH EvErytHing tHE dutcH cApitAl HAs to offEr.

CityRush Local Businesses & Reviews Events, Classifieds, Discount Coupons

Hotspots The website offers visitors all kinds of possibilities, and includes the city’s top hotspots. This is the place to be whether one is looking for a certain type of restaurant, a nice hotel, a pub of Dutch or Irish origin, a well-known museum (or maybe a less well-known museum), and much more. After choosing a hotspot, a city map will appear which will be useful when planning a route to the relevant destination in the city of Amsterdam (and, when applicable, beyond). An easy-to-use search engine will bring the visitor anywhere in no time.

EvEnts A list of hotspots is not the only service www.CityRush.nl offers visitors. The site also features a calendar of upcoming events. If there is time to spare for something special, the site will not disappoint. Especially because all of these events are chosen by the editors of Rush on Amsterdam.

ArticlEs Those who want background information on any of the well-known places in Amsterdam, will also be at the right address. Whether they’re interested in the Rijksmuseum (the ‘Night Watch’!), the Van Gogh Museum or the Heineken Museum... The archive of Rush on Amster

34 I Rush on Amsterdam

dam is pretty endless. As is the corresponding archive of www.CityRush.nl. Should one have an endless curiosity for everything that the Dutch capital has in store, then a visit to www.CityRush.nl is highly recommended. onlinE storE Of course, Rush on Amsterdam has its own online store.

Since the Rush on Amsterdam website is new, so is its store. However, more items will become available by the day. The online store aims to convey the message that www.CityRush.nl is a one-stop address whenever Amsterdam (with its favourite memories and items!) comes into play. togEtHEr The site will make one other thing clear. www.CityRush.nl is an initiative of both Rush on Amsterdam and YOU in Amsterdam (the other famous hotel magazine in Amsterdam). Both magazines are published by EHAM Publications. Together, the two magazines are available at about 80 % of the capital’s hotels. Both Rush on Amsterdam and YOU in Amsterdam are renowned for their quality and their completeness. The reader will not miss a thing.

Summer 2013

FEATURE

First slurp, then taste

Wynand Fockink: not only for locals whEREvER yoU sEE A loT oF ToURIsTs Is oFTEn A plAcE whERE ThE oRIgInAl locAls (lET’s cAll ThEm ThAT FoR ThE sAkE oF EAsE) pREFER To sTAy AwAy. wynAnd FockInk’s TAsTIng hoUsE Is An ExcEpTIon To ThIs UnwRITTEn RUlE. FIRsT To slURp And ThEn To TAsTE: IT’s A TRAdITIon To sAvoUR.

Text & Photography Henry Salman

Right page (top) Distiller Paul Wanrooy of Wynand Fockink works on enhancing the flavour of various liqueurs.

Right page (below) The bulbs contain the herbal extracts, the bottles the booze. In between resides Wynand Fockink’s professional skill.

Pijlsteeg,

a narrow alleyway next to Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky and right behind the National Monument, connects Dam Square and Oudezijds Voorburgwal. Halfway down this stealthy thoroughfare you will find Wynand Fockink, with a tasting house, an off licence (i.e., liquor store) and... a jenever and liqueur distillery – jenever being a unique Dutch gin. The place was originally founded in 1679, but it has been open for business in its current format for about 20 years. The presence of ‘WF’ means that it is always busy in the alley.

ITs vERy own boUqUET The reason for the constant coming and going is as simple as it is sweet: the opportunity to taste the liqueurs distilled here. There are at least 70 different tastes, all of them sugary. At least? That’s right, mixing various liqueurs together creates the most frivolous and racy palate of odours and tastes. And the names of the liqueurs and their mixed variations are equally playful. From Perfect Bliss to Little Heaven, from Bridal Tears to Naked Belly Button and from My Aunt’s Water to Prick in a Prune. slURpIng FRom ThE bAR After making your choice, the barman puts a glass down on the bar in front of you and fills it. A full glass? Absolutely, the liqueur bulges over the rim so that the glass looks fuller than the amount it can actually hold! The idea is, therefore – before you pick up the glass, spill its

36 I Rush on Amsterdam

contents and get sticky fingers – that you bend forward, purse your lips and slurp the first sip. Only then should you pick up the glass in order to savour what it holds in more detail, ad fundum, should you so wish (that’s knocking it back in one go).

REmEdy FoR shAkIng hAnds The choice of a small glass was once in order to ensure that the strong, native jenever didn’t flow too liberally. Nevertheless, there have been many who ignored the 40 % alcohol content in order to drink away their poverty, or simply to escape from day-to-day reality for a while. One of the side effects of too much and too regular alcohol intake is shaky hands. And in extension to that, spilling the spirit.

And if then you’re given such a small glass….!? (You hope that it remedies shaky hands…) sIppIng FRom ThE bAR Wynand Fockink’s tasting house serves its drinks in authentic little glasses of exactly 35 millilitres and not in slightly larger glasses with a line to indicate the 35 ml mark. It wouldn’t be real and it wouldn’t be traditional. Dutch law, however, prescribes an exact measure, and that’s 35 ml for jenevers and liqueurs, which is something the bar staff have to deal with. ‘No worries,’ is what they say to that. After all, it legitimises sipping (read: slurping) the most wonderful booze from the bar so that you get a good, heart-warming portion inside of you regardless.

Summer 2013

FEATURE

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Rush on Amsterdam I 37

FEATURE

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1. It’s always busy in Pijlsteeg. Why? Because Wynand Fockink’s tasting house is to be found here.

2. Bottles of Wynand Fockink (‘WF’) jenevers: still distilled at the tasting house, unavailable anywhere else.

STimUlATing FEllowShip According to Wynand Fockink, sipping all those wonderful liqueurs from the bar isn’t an activity suitable for large groups. Small groups, however, are fine. Savouring a The Shirt Lifts (an ode to the almost medicinal combination of orange, cacao, vanilla and cascara) is something that should most definitely be done in company. But you must do it standing, as the tasting house has no seats. The idea is that tasting so many flavours and the bent-forwardslurping manner in which this should be done prompts spontaneous conversations between customers and creates an atmosphere of fellowship.

2

bottles in search of the perfect combinations for the jenevers and liqueurs. Jenever is made from malt wine and fermented grains, but the base of the liqueurs is sugars and spices. The ethereal oils in orange and lemon peels are the perfect place to start experimenting with flavours.

And the extracts of selected other herbs and spices may be added, too. All these herbs and spices make a visit to Wynand Fockink in Pijlsteeg a really special experience.

Saying that, the WF jenevers are held in high regard, too.

By Amsterdamers and visitors to the city!

The tasting house has no seats

“If you’re not up for that,” says manager Jan Galesloot, “then I suggest you stay in your hotel room, or visit one of the many other bars in town.”

ExpERimEnTing wiTh FlAvoURS While customers at the tasting house sip from their glasses without a care, the distiller is constantly hard at work behind the scenes, tasting the ripening melanges in large

38 I Rush on Amsterdam

QUEnch yoUR ThiRST SAFEly And TASTily In 1679, Jan Bierman founded a jenever and liqueur distillery in Amsterdam’s Pijlsteeg (Bierman undoubtedly being a nickname derived from his daily thirst; this was the time in the Netherlands before Napoleon had brought in compulsory naming). At the time, the water wasn’t of the quality it is today and drinking it had its physical consequences. The thirsty, therefore, sought ways of quenching their parched throats without troubling their constitution – even if they didn’t want to drown their

Summer 2013

FEATURE

2

1

sorrows. Before long, breweries mushroomed out of the Dutch clay to meet popular demand. Fermentation, required for the production of alcohol, offers all kinds of opportunities. It is therefore only logical that apart from beer also liqueurs, jenevers and wines were served as social thirst quenchers.

RApid And inTERnATionAl gRowTh The company didn’t really see any meaningful success until Wynand Fockink took over the distillery in 1730.

The liqueur distillery grew to become one of the country’s largest, thanks in no small part to Fockink’s extensive contacts from his previous occupation as a wine merchant. The company expanded in and around Pijlsteeg, set up trading offices in Berlin, Brussels, Vienna and Paris. Exports to the land of lovers, France, grew enormously. wF-TAkEovER by bols In around 1870, Wynand Fockink had five large distilling vessels powered by a 30 hp steam engine in constant operation. With some 80 people in full-time employment, this was the period when exports to the United States

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started to take off, too. Times were good and success was sweet.

Obviously, competitors such as Bols, Boots and Henkes were rather interested in Wynand Fockink’s smells, colours and tastes. In the end, about ten years after World War II, the company was taken over by Bols. wynAnd Fockink bAck on ThE mAp What happened a lot in Amsterdam during the turbulent 1960s and 70s happened to the original distillery on Pijlsteeg, too: squatters, or illegal inhabitants, moved in; often young people without homes. They stayed until 1993, when Jan Galesloot came up with the idea of breathing new life into Wynand Fockink. Later, Paul Wanrooy joined the business as distiller and today he is co-owner.

The result is a distillery that is now also a museum and information centre of liqueurs and jenevers, where the history, knowledge and technology of making spirits is safely kept and shared.

1. Wynand Fockink at a glance: bulbs (with herbal extracts!), bottles (with jenever or liqueur!), glasses (with flavour!).

2. Before the herbs and spices give up their extracts, they arrive at the door in large barrels 3. This is what it’s ultimately all about: ripening melanges of herbs and… orange peel.

www.wynand-fockink.nl

Rush on Amsterdam I 39

City Map

Do you WAnt to Get A FIRSt HAnD ImPReSSIon oF tHe FAmouS ‘CAnAL RInG’ oF AmSteRDAm? Do you WAnt to knoW WHeRe to FInD youR FAvouRIte ItemS, PRovIDeD By ouR ADveRtISeRS? oR WouLD you LIke to Go onLIne to See WHICH CAnAL you ARe LookInG At? tHen FIRSt tAke A Look At ouR CIty mAP on tHe next PAGeS oR Go to ouR CIty mAP(S) onLIne: WWW.CItyRuSH.nL FoR youR SmARtPHone:

www.CityRush.nl

40 I Rush on Amsterdam

1. Artis - Royal Amsterdam Zoo - Address: Plantage Kerklaan 40 - www.artis.nl - See p. 3 in this magazine

7. Bubbles & Wines - Wine & champagne bar - Address: Nes 37 - www.bubblesandwines.com - See p. 63 in this magazine

2. Baut - Restaurant-bar - Address: Wibautstraat 125 - www.bautamsterdam.nl - See p. 16 in this magazine

8. www.CityRush.nl - Site of Rush on Amsterdam - No visiting address - www.CityRush.nl - See p. 76 in this magazine

3. Beurs van Berlage - Venue for events - Address: Damrak 243 - www.beursvanberlage.nl - See p. 81 in this magazine

9. Fromanteel Watches - Refined watches (shop (shop isis called called ‘Relaxed ‘Relaxed at at Home’) Home’) - Address: Huidenstraat 19 - www.fromanteel-watches.com - See p. 16 in this magazine

4. BIHP - Food and drinks & art (Fresh food and seafood restaurant) - Address: Keizersgracht 335 - www.bridgesrestaurant.nl - See p. 61 in this magazine

10. G & G Special Sizes - Extra tall and large-sized men’s clothing - Address: Prinsengrachr 514 - www.ggspecialsizes.com - See p. 45 in this magazine

5. Birkenstock - Sandals, slippers, clogs, collectors’ items - Address: 1e Constantijn Huygenstraat 76 - www.birkenstockstore.nl - See p. 80 in this magazine

11. Hoogstins - Luxury gifts - Address: Kinkerstraat 71 - www.luxecadeautjes.nl - See p. 44 in this magazine

6. Bridges - Fresh fish and seafood restaurant - Address: Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 - www.bridgesrestaurant.nl - See p. 61 in this magazine

12. L’invite - French restaurant - Bloemgracht 47 - www.linviterestaurant.nl - see p. 63 in this magazine

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13. Little Buddha - Restaurant/sushi bar & lounge - Address: Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 17 - www.littlebuddhaamsterdam.com - See p. 13 in this magazine

20. Pont 13 - European restaurant - Address: Haparandadam 50 - www.pont13.nl - See p. 63 in this magazine

14. Lovelyladies - Girls’ directory - No visiting address - www.lovelyladies.nl - See p. 77 in this magazine

21. Scooter Rent Amsterdam - Scooter rent - Address: 3e Hugo de Grootstraat 2 - www.scooter-rent-amsterdam.com - See p. 45 in this magazine

15. Magna Plaza - Exclusive shopping centre - Address: Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182 - www.magnaplaza.nl - See p. 84 in this magazine (last page)

22. Secrid - Wallets (shop is called ‘Daskas’) - Address: Haarlemmerstraat 27 - www.secrid.com - See p. 35 in this magazine

16. Mappa - Italian restaurant - Address: Nes 59 - www.mappa.nl - See p. 63 in this magazine

23. Senza - Luxury fashion - Address: Rokin 82 - www.e-senzaz.com - See p. 2 in this magazine

17. Megazino - Italian luxury outlet fashion store - Address: Rozengracht 207-213 - www.megazino.nl - See p. 45 in this magazine

24. Supperclub - Mix of food, music, performance and art - Address: Jonge Roelensteeg 21 - www.supperclub.com - See p. 61 in this magazine

18. NEVY - Fish restaurant - Address: Westerdoksdijk 40 - www.nevy.nl - See p. 61 in this magazine

25. Syriana - Syrian-Lebanese restaurant - Address: Akersluis 8 - www.syriana.nl - See p. 61 in this magazine

19. Otumm - Watches delivered to a given (hotel) address - Web address, no visiting address - www.CityRush.nl (webshop) - See p. 83 in this magazine

26. Tafel van Twaalfhoven - Dutch design tables - Address: city of Alkmaar, not Amsterdam - www.tafelvantwaalfhoven.nl - See p. 80 in this magazine

Rush on Amsterdam I 41

G&G SPECIAL SIZES THE SPECIALIST IN EXTRA TALL AND LARGE-SIZED MEN’S CLOTHING.

Bugatti Polo Ralph Lauren Pierre Cardin

Closed on Monday Tax free.

All major credit cards accepted

Gardeur Camel Paul & Shark

Prinsengracht 514 1017 KJ Amsterdam T. 020 - 622 63 39 www.ggspecialsizes.com

You can park your car at only 80 meters away, at our expense

Each a little document of history 46 I Rush on Amsterdam

Summer 2013

Gable stones have adorned buildinGs for centuries. sometimes their meaninG is quite apparent; sometimes it can only be Guessed at by anyone other than a professional. always, however, there is somethinG special and intriGuinG about these documents from the past.

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FEATURE

Previous pages Dedicated hands sculpted this gable stone of T Huys Tvreest, to be found on the last house on Olofssteeg. Despite efforts by numerous enthusiasts, the 18th century ship of this name has never been discovered in the archives.

Right page (top) In 1622, the Dutch ship Leeuwin (Female lion) first explored the west coast of Australia. Today, Cape Lewin is the most south-westerly mainland point of the continent.

The stone, which is not at its original location, can be found in the sidewall of the last house along Olofssteeg, where, incidentally, eight other gable stones from different locations around town have been collected.

Right page (below) Set in the sidewall at the end of the Olofssteeg, this lovely scene depicts Noah, his wife, three sons and three daughters-inlaw heading towards the Ark in order to escape the flood. A gable stone such as this could have been a simple expression of the owner’s faith. However, it could also be a sign promoting a ship builder, or a wine producer, as Noah was the first person ever recorded to produce wine.

Text & Photography Robin Glendenning

It’s

very much like a huge museum, the old citycentre of Amsterdam within the famous ring of four canals. It is open to the elements, so you may need to be dressed up for it, but it is also open 24/7, so you can see and experience much of what made the town so important, wealthy and loved whenever you like. Walking is best, as it affords you the time and opportunity to stop and look closer, since the canals, narrow streets and alleyways bring something new at every turn. There are innumerable sights at which to marvel, but be sure to take in the magnificent gable stones set into many of the façades and sidewalls of the buildings you pass. They’re a great record of what went on inside, and of what went on in Mediaeval city life in general.

ImpoRTAnT pURposE As with most things, gable stones, or gable signs, served a very important purpose. The streets and canals of the old town readily had their names, but to get to exactly where they wanted to be, visitors identified individual

48 I Rush on Amsterdam

houses, workshops and businesses by gable stones. They didn’t use numbers as we do today until the end of the 18th century. Before that, official documents relating to a property referred to it by its gable stone, or the gable stone set into the property next door, or opposite if the property didn’t boast its own.

Picturesque and charmingly Dutch, the buildings of Amsterdam are often hundreds of years old. Most are regular houses and shops now, but they were often built as factories and warehouses. You can come across gable stones on them featuring almost anything from a simple, rudimentary bird to an entire, intricately sculpted, biblical scene. Mainly, though, the depiction relates to the trade or craft that the owner of the property practised inside. pUblIc hoUsE High up on Sint Olofssteeg 8, for example, you’ll see a gable stone with a barrel. A barrel maker’s workshop? For all intents and purposes it could have been, but we know

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1. Dit is in den swarten horen (This is in the Black Horn), set between Zeedijk 16 and 18. It is the oldest gable stone to still adorn a building along a public street in Amsterdam, and was mentioned in a municipal bond as early as 1546.

2. De liefde boven al (Love above all), on Enge Kerksteeg 4, is a modern reconstruction of a 16th century gable stone celebrating the divine virtues faith, hope and love.

3. In de War, a fantastic sculpture and the prime example of a modern gable stone dating from 2002, to be found on Warmoesstraat 62.

that the owner of a previous building on this site was a beer merchant. He probably ran a public house (a pub) here, too. The old building was called Jopenvat, ‘Jopen’ being a beer brewed in the city of Haarlem and vat meaning vat, or barrel. And when, for whatever reason, the building we admire today replaced it in 1659, the gable stone was spared and set into the new façade.

This was no nostalgic, or culturally aware tradition. It was strictly forbidden to change or alter gable stones, as they would lose their legal meaning and function, opening the door to property fraud. What was permitted, and done often, is that the old gable stone would be remade to meet the more contemporary tastes of the undoubtedly wealthy and successful person erecting the new house.

Its original name and scene, however, was set in stone belonging to the previous house – and because of this, there are plenty of ‘new’ 18th century gable stones to be found with elaborate, baroque frames, but with scenes that refer back directly to a house name predating it by centuries.

50 I Rush on Amsterdam

’BlAck HoRn’ (FRom 1546) One gable stone that has survived numerous renovations over the centuries untouched is the Swarte Hoorn (Black Horn), which can be admired at Zeedijk 16-18. This large square stone depicting a black drinking horn hung by a small belt to a hook was renovated in 1991, but it is the oldest gable stone to still adorn a building along a public street in Amsterdam, and was mentioned in a municipal bond as early as 1546. Ironically, the horn was painted red for a week in 1991 because the painter thought it was a post horn and post horns in this country are red. Not a capital offense nowadays, altering a gable sign, but the error was hastily remedied nevertheless.

Please do not alter gable stones

sToppEd BEing mAdE As house numbering became the norm and the formal naming function of gable stones disappeared, so too did the gable stones themselves. They simply stopped being made. Sadly, apart from the few that found their way into museums, when a new building replaced an old one in the 19th century, the old gable stone would invariably be

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destroyed and thrown on a pile with the rest of the old masonry work, to be used as rubble foundations.

Modest revival There has been a modest revival since the early 20th century. In the Warmoesstraat, on the back of the 1913 Beurs van Berlage (the Dutch stock exchange), a triptych comprising three terracotta tile tableaux remembers the buildings that were demolished to create room for Amsterdam’s new future as a financial hub. And a little further down Warmoesstraat is a very contemporary gable stone: an amazingly sculpted length of tangled cord above the inscription ‘in de War’. It was set in the façade of no. 62 in 2002 as a gift from the winners of the Stadsbeeldprijs (Cityscape Prize) to its awarders, an organisation that supports the upkeep of architectural cultural heritage. In Dutch, to be in de war means to be tangled, or confused.

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Perfectly harMless Gable stones can be found all around the centre and in a number of museums, but another lovely area to wander around and see a lot of them close together is the Jordaan, the other ‘oldest’ old part of town. The signs mentioned in this article are concentrated in the Warmoesstraat/Zeedijk area, where there are many more tucked away in the little connecting streets and alleyways. Don’t be daunted by the traders, they’re perfectly harmless. When I photographed the beautifully worked basket, De Verghulde Wan gable stone in the very narrow Enge Kerksteeg, a lady looked on just centimetres from me behind the glass. What should be on a gable stone fashioned for her?

1. Het Jopenvat, the gable stone adorning the house of a 16 th century beer merchant on Sint Olofssteeg 8.

2 and 3. Sometimes, when someone built two identical houses, each would be given a related gable stone, like these sun and moon signs that used to adorn Lepelstraat 20 and 20a, houses that were demolished in 1926.

They are now set in the sidewall of the last house in Olofssteeg.

It’s sense winks down at you in the street, too: ‘war’ is part of the word ‘warmoes’, which is Old Dutch for vegetable market. Undoubtedly this is what gave this street its name.

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Amsterdam among the world’s top

Cocktail bars are all the rage i don’t knoW Why, but they’re everyWhere all of a sudden: cocktail bars. enjoying a complicated drink in an intimate, chic, hip and mondaine atmosphere has become all the rage in amsterdam in recent years – and that in an economically bad time.

Text & Photography Lizet Deutekom

Right page At Tales & Spirits, cocktails are prepared professionally, albeit in a way that is almost impossible to follow.

The

rise of cocktail bars is interesting because cocktails are more expensive and pretentious then a beer or a glass of wine. You have to wait for them for a relatively long time – all the different ingredients needs to be mixed – and… when considering a nice night out, the average Amsterdamer doesn’t seem to me to be the kind to think of cocktails.

Where do cocktails come from?

It would seem impossible to think that all those trendy looking new bars sustain themselves wholly on the custom of worldly, international visitors who are used to the cocktail culture of cities like London and New York. There must be something else going on. But what?

“Amsterdam currently ranks among the world’s top cocktail cities,” says Jev, barman at the intimate Vesper bar in the edge of the Jordaan area. “Dutch cocktail makers are winning international prizes left, right and centre. I can’t put my finger on it either, but cocktails are really hot here.”

While he talks to me, Jev expertly puts together a few exotic looking cocktails for a group of expats at the next table. They’re served in mugs resembling a totem pole. He squeezes a pomegranate into them, pours a liqueur over the top and holds a lighter to the drink. The totem-pole heads with flaming heads now stare at me grumpily. I want to know more. “The Vesper bar is among the country’s top-3. We use only fresh, organic ingredients and in-

52 I Rush on Amsterdam

novate continuously. You know, trying out new tastes and combinations.” cocktail World: small World The cocktail world is a small one in which everybody knows everybody. And Jev refuses to be critical of competitors like ‘Door 74’ and ‘Butcher’… In fact, he frequents the places regularly and exchanges tips and experiences with his colleagues. Perhaps it’s a illustrative of Amsterdam’s current cocktail trend, which seems to be a movement propelled by a group of fair-minded freaks who simply want to deliver a fine product in a fine atmosphere. more than a drink Jev recommended a recently opened cocktail bar just ten minutes’ walk from Vesper bar: Tales & Spirits. Behind the bar here, too, works an award-winning cocktail magician.

What makes Tales & Spirits extra special is that it’s also a restaurant.

If you want, Tales & Spirits will serve you a matching cocktail with each course. A bit like a wine arrangement, but then with cocktails. And don’t think you’ll get a cloyingly sweet Piña Colada that’s going to completely drown out your delicately prepared scallops. The combinations are much more refined than that. Like steak tartare with a New York Sour, which is made of whisky and port. Or the cheese platter with a 7th Regiment Punch made with raspberries and brandy. Obviously, if it’s not your cup of

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1. The Fall & Figs is sweet rather than sour and mild rather than strong.

tea, then you can enjoy some very good wines with your food, too.

2. The Barbacoa is quite a strong, somewhat bitter cocktail.

Anyway, why cocktails and why now? In this establishment, too, I am told that “people simply want to enjoy themselves,” and “we want to offer people something special in an intimate atmosphere where everybody feels at ease”. I have nothing against that, of course.

But... again: why cocktails, and why now?!

CoCkTAil mAniA So what has set off this cocktail mania? A number of years ago, I seem to remember, various ordinary bars suddenly started putting cocktails on the menu. Between dancing and drinking beers, you could order something different for a change. A mojito, for instance, or a caipirinha, often hastily prepared by an overworked barman after fumbling around with sprigs of mint and sticky slices of lime. It was as if the owner had returned from an exotic holiday and decided to put the local beverage of choice onto the menu here. A bit weird but... the ladies loved it.

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womAn oF ThE woRld Is that why the cocktail bars suddenly sprouted up all over the place? Had the mojitos on the menu become too ordinary? The sudden appearance of the cocktail bar certainly heralded a shift towards refined little works of art. Works of art prepared by knowledgeable staff and charmingly served on tidy little black serviettes, with a chilled glass of water and a bowl of chic nuts. Without fail.

In my opinion, it’s a positive trend.

The care and attention, the craftsmanship, the comfy chairs, the feeling of being a woman of the world as you nip such a beautiful cocktail… Maybe the reason behind cocktail bars isn’t all that important and we should simply embrace the fact that they exist. Three cheers for the cocktail bar! An international phenomenon that has finally taken hold in Amsterdam’s nightlife. And in no way half-heartedly. Amsterdam is firmly on the world cocktail map. I’m going to enjoy it.

Why cocktails?

And why now?

54 I Rush on Amsterdam

Based on the author’s personal experiences and tips from barman Jev, here’s a list of recommended Amsterdam cocktail bars:

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FEATURE

vEsPER BAR vinkenstraat 57 (Jordaan) www.vesperbar.nl A tiny bar in a quiet little street on the edge of the Jordaan. A relaxed atmosphere, friendly staff and a crowd comprising of locals, tourists, expats and quite a number of regulars. The creative menu is often updated and the barman is an expert advisor to his guests. Very busy from Thursday through Sunday, but also very worthwhile.

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DooR 74 Reguliersdwarsstraat 74 (Centre) www.door-74.com A modern classic among the Amsterdam cocktail bars and number 29 in the worldwide cocktail bar top 50.

Guests need to book by telephone on the day they wish to make a visit and ring the doorbell to get in. It is busy, dark, trendy and expensive, but the cocktails are divine.

‘CAnvAs oP DE 7E’ Wibautstraat 150 (East) www.canvas7.nl A bit of an alternative rather than classic bar and a good place to dance.

‘Canvas op de 7e’ is on the seventh floor of the former de Volkskrant building ('de Volkskrant' being a Dutch daily newspaper). Where journalists used to sweat, you can now enjoy very good cocktails.

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HPs (HIdIng In PlAIn SIgHt) Rapenburg 18 (Centre) www.hpsamsterdam.com A real cocktail bar in speakeasy style.

A lot like Vesper in many ways, but a little bigger. The crowd is trendy and artistic. The cocktails rank among the city’s best and they organise a monthly pop-up dinner with special guest-chefs.

MoMo Hobbemastraat 1 (Centre/south) www.momo-amsterdam.com This is the kind of bar you might find in other countries, too: it is part of a hotel and is a restaurant as well.

It is well lit, chic and elegant end frequented by a cosmopolitan crowd.

The cuisine is pan-Asian and the cocktails are as they should be.

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DvARs Reguliersdwarsstraat 44 (Centre) www.dvars.nl Located at the heart of the famous gay area, but not particularly a gay bar. Dvars serves special wines, classic as well as new cocktails and fantastic bar food until about an hour before closing time.

1. Barman Jev working behind the bar at Vesper.

Vesper bar is among the country's top cocktail bars.

2. Cocktails as friendly companions, smiley faces almost? Is that perhaps why Amsterdam ranks among the world’s top cocktail cities?

HoUsE oF Bols Paulus Potterstraat 14 (south) www.bols.com Not really a true cocktail bar, but a great place to go if you want to learn about the typical Dutch drink jenever and even more so if you’d like to learn how to make cocktails yourself.

At House of Bols they provide cocktail workshops for groups of six or more people. Price: € 35 per person, including a tour and three cocktails.

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FEATURE

The tanners of old would have been amazed

Day dreaming

in the ‘Nine Little Streets’ AmSTERdAm’S cAnAlS And JoRdAAn dISTRIcT ARE FAmoUS Among FoREIgnERS AS wEll AS ThE dUTch. BUT onE oF ThE cITy’S REAl gEmS lIES In BETwEEn ThE Two.

Text & Photography Lizet Deutekom

Top When looking at the street name of the Berenstraat (one of the Nine Little Streets), you will notice a little sculpture on the wall. The sculpture relates to trades and crafts that once were practised here.

Right page Ready to be impressed by some colourful dresses?

Then also take note of that little note on the window of ‘Laura Dolls’ in the Wolvenstraat: “Bike near the bridge please”.

The

narrow streets that connect the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht and then continue on into the Jordaan area are steeped in history and lined with lots of lovely little shops, bars, bistros and other pleasant surprises. There’s so much to see and do in fact, that you can easily spend an entire day in this mini-Amsterdam without setting foot outside of it. Welcome to the Nine Little Streets!

The western part of the ring of canals was built during the 17th century, also known as the Dutch Golden Age. Trade was flourishing and the area between the Singel and the moorland that was later to become the Jordaan was built over: the little streets alongside the canals were connected by several bridges. Nowadays, the names of these little streets are a reminder of the trades and crafts that were once practised here. Reestraat (Deer Street), Berenstraat (Bear Street) Huidenstraat (Hide Street): many, many animal hides were traded and tanned into leather here long before the first shops with luxury designer bags opened.

SUccESS SToRy There are actually many more streets in this area than nine, but the Nine Little Streets’ shopkeepers’ association made a clever move during the 1990s. In order to attract more visitors, they decided that the streets should become a proper little district, a strong brand, like the Jordaan, and, of course, should have its own name. They certainly succeeded! Unsurprisingly, the area is named ‘De Negen Straatjes’ and now attracts visitors from all over the

56 I Rush on Amsterdam

world. And it’s popular among Amsterdamers, too. The names of the streets are Reestraat, Hartenstraat, Gasthuismolensteeg, Berenstraat, Wolvenstraat, Oude Spiegelstraat, Runstraat, Huidenstraat and Wijde Heisteeg. For a number of years now, the Hazenstraat, which borders the area, has been trying to get a piece of the pie by calling itself the ‘Tenth Little Street’. Who wouldn’t? Anyway, today the area is known for its strange little shops, luxury boutiques, pleasant coffee bars and unusual pubs. It has a very charming, village-like character, even though it’s just a five-minute walk from Dam Square, the central square of Amsterdam. Ideal for a lazy afternoon’s sauntering, or an all-out shopping spree, if you prefer. The only question now is where to start?

In ThE moRnIng OK, we’ll decide for you: it’s going to be a long day in the Nine Little Streets. Do what the Dutch generally do and start with a nice cup of coffee in the close vicinity of the nine little streets. From Toos & Roos at Herengracht 309, for instance, a small, attractive, breakfast and lunch restaurant with a couple of tables and chairs outside when the weather is good. For the most part, the menu is organic and the ingredients seasonal. A great place to relax and prepare for some serious shopping. Because just around the corner, in Oude Spiegelstraat, you’ll find Rika International, the clothes shop owned by Swedish stylist Ulrika Lundgren.

She developed her own line of clothes and sells them in her own boutique in Amsterdam, as well as in countless exclusive shops internationally. Next, cross the Heren-

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Ready to enter of the nine little streets (Wolvenstraat)? This ‘tuktuk’ is.

gracht and walk on into Huidenstraat for Scotch & Soda and Laundry Industry. Two totally different but hugely successful Dutch labels with smart basics clothing and staunch leisure wear.

with smoked chicken, taleggio and figs, a roll with Old Amsterdam cheese, or an authentic Dutch pancake. And remember this spot for later on in the day, because they serve evening meals, too.

Gents interested in fashion should carry on along the canal to the Hartenstraat, where Sir Max sells stunning men’s shoes, made-to-measure clothes and accessories, Fred Perry stocks the well-known British style and... splendid LockStock & Barrel has a selection of great brands like American Vintage and Filippa K (nice for ladies, too, by the way).

And if you’re into vintage clothes, be sure not to overlook Lady Day and Exota in the same street.

Fashion and food aren’t the only things on offer in the Nine Little Streets; there’s plenty of culture, as well. Pop into Felix Meritus at Keizersgracht 324, the European Centre for Art, Culture and Science. This magnificent and monumental building is a venue for lectures, concerts and more. But you can also have a drink, or have a lunch and enjoy the beautiful view over the canal. In Gasthuismolensteeg you will find the eccentric National Museum of Spectacles, where you are taken on a journey through the art and history of glasses. The building that houses it is from 1620. That alone makes it worth a visit.

Want to do something different?

LUnch If it’s all becoming a bit much for you and the legs start to ache, it’s probably time for lunch at Van Harte (‘Right out of the heart’) in the Hartenstraat (‘Street of Hearts’).

The place has recently been renovated and boasts a varied and affordable menu. Savour a lovely sandwich filled

58 I Rush on Amsterdam

End oF ThE AFTERnoon Want to do something different? Check out the Witte Tandenwinkel (White Teeth Shop) on Runstraat. Anything and everything to do with dental care can be found

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here, a place where professional advice and strange toothbrush gadgets go hand in hand.

A nice place to buy a real Dutch present, namely cheese, is the Kaaskamer (Cheese Room) on the same street.

They sell more than 300 types of cheese from all over Europe, as well as many Dutch regional products.

Completely different again is the Lomography Gallery Store on the corner of Wolvenstraat and Herengracht.

They claim to be the hippest analogue photography shop in Amsterdam and they may well be right about that. The concept is based on the Russian compact camera, which was rediscovered in the 1990s. A whole lifestyle has been created around it. So, if you want to be hip, get yourself a Lomo-camera and shoot an ‘old-fashioned’ roll of film.

Perhaps now, after all this creative inspiration, it’s time to unwind, just one step away of the nine streets. Step into the wonderful world of Koan Float at Herengracht 321 and feel yourself become weightless in the lovely warm water of a float tank.

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ThE EvEning After a busy day of new experiences, what could be better than sitting down at a beautifully laid table in a fine restaurant? Exactly. So end the day and start the evening with some tasty appetizers at restaurant Brix at number 16, Wolvenstraat. They have an extensive menu with fine starters only and if you wish, you can eat at the bar. On Sundays and Mondays you’ll enjoy live music and on a Friday a DJ will treat you to groovy funk, jazz and soul. A slightly simpler but certainly no less tasty bite can be had at De Struisvogel. In this tiny basement restaurant on the corner of Keizersgracht and Berenstraat you can enjoy mostly French-oriented cuisine in an agreeably intimate setting.

And there’s so much more to do. The course of your day in the Nine Little Streets may well be completely different, but it is sure to feature inspiring shops, good food and drink and stunning architecture. No 17th century tanner could ever have imagined that one of ‘his’ streets would four centuries later be the domain of shopping, entertainment and fun. Don’t dwell on that for too long, though.

Just wander around.

1. Walk into Huidenstraat for Scotch & Soda and Laundry Industry. Two totally different but hugely successful Dutch labels with smart basics clothing and staunch leisure wear.

2. As you can see, the Berenstraat (‘Bear Street’) isn’t to spacious. Yes, it is one of the Nine Little Streets. You can drink well-known beer here.

3. Do you want some Scandinavian influence in one of the Nine Little Streets? Then visit the clothes shop ‘Rika’ owned

by Swedish stylist Ulrika Lundgren.

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HIP & HOT

VOOGES Syriana

biHp

lOnG pura

bridGES Sofitel legend The Grand amsterdam 60 I Rush on Amsterdam

Summer 2013

Hip & Hot SYRIANA RestauRant

Akersluis 8 T. 020 - 669 09 33 www.syriana.nl info@syriana.nl Syriana, a restaurant with a Syrian-Lebanese kitchen, a cuisine that is relatively unknown to restaurant visitors and continues to amaze people. The tastes are a class apart, you could say we are dealing with a new culinary taste maker. People like the kitchen because it has many appetizer courses, called ‘mazas’ - very similar to the Spanish tapas. In the restaurant you can also enjoy the unique Arab high-tea with lots of Syrian and Lebanese sweets & treats. Lunch, brunch and cocktails are being served during the day and at night a delightful dinner with Arab tapas-dishes.

The Lounge with the 1001 night decor on the first floor or the Eden room at the ground floor can be booked for parties, meetings, large dinners and business events. Suggestions can be made for menu, entertainment and theme’s. New at Syriana is the “All you can eat concept”- you can eat 6 rounds and order 4 dishes per round from the in total 56 dishes with a choice from vegetarian, meat- or fishmaza’s. So you can explore the Libanese kitchen in a fun way. Price : € 19,50 during weekdays and € 22,50 on Friday and Saturday because of the live music and performance of a Belly dancer.For after dinner cocktails & shiska please visit the Club Lounge Syriana Deluxe.

Kitchen open daily from 12:00 - 22:00 Open 365 days a year See you at Syriana!

bIhp aRt Food dRinks

Keizersgracht 335 T. 020 - 622 45 11 www.bihp.nl Situated on one of the city’s most beautiful canals, this exceptionally attractive-looking establishment has a somewhat unusual concept in that it combines food and drinks with art. During the year there are several exhibitions in the gallery in the basement: Galerie K335, while during every exhibition works by the exhibiting artist can also

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be seen in the restaurant. BIHP features a mainly European kitchen, classical base, with lots of interplay between old and new traditions and flavors from all corners of the world. All the food that will be served to you originates completely from our kitchen, even the bonbons and confectionery are homemade. The menu changes on a regular basis and the dishes are cooked with the seasons wherever possible, so you will be guaranteed of a delicious and honest meal. If you have any allergies or dietary wishes that are quite specific, we kindly ask you to let us know in advance so we can take them into account.

To conclude: if you’re looking for good food, a nice ambience and art, BIHP absolutely is the right address for you.

3-course menu € 32,95 - choices of fish, meat and vegetarian Kitchen open Tue - Sat 18.00 – 22.30

loNg puRA RestauRant

Rozengracht 46-48 T. 020-623 89 50 info@restaurant-longpura.com www.restaurant-longpura.com Selamat Datang, welcome !

Restaurant Long Pura ‘’Eternal Temple’’ is located in a typical monumental building in the centre of Amsterdam, nearby the Western Church in the cosy Jordaan area. Here hides a beautiful and colourful Indonesian temple. Upon entering you will be pleasantly surprised by the contemporary, stylish and warm interior with Balinese elements. Our Chef and his team prepare tastes and fragrances to delight all your senses. You will be greeted with the “Selemat Datang” welcome by our traditional Indonesian dressed staff.

Enjoy the abundance of our famous rice tables or varied à la carte menu. To stimulate your dining experience, all our food is prepared using fresh ingredients.

bRIdgeS InSpIRed by Ron blAAuw RestauRant

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 T. 020 - 555 35 60 info@bridgesrestaurant.nl www.bridgesrestaurant.nl At Bridges inspired by Ron Blaauw it’s all about fish. Always the best fish and only when in season. Executive chef Joris Bijdendijk presents a wide variety of fresh fish and seafood, both in our restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Oysters, lobster sandwiches, delicate fish tartar and ocean fresh fish, everything prepared while you watch. You can eat in the restaurant as well as dine in the exclusive privacy of the Private Dining, with view of the Vinothèque, the climatized domain of the sommelier and his fine selection of wines. Bridges’ philosophy is to add only a couple of fresh ingredients to the dish in order to let the fish’s character and flavour fully blossom. Every dish retains its purity and is very easily digestible as well. Mainly locally & biologically grown vegetables complete these dishes. Sommelier Jasper van den Hoogen tastes and selects the wine in the Vinothèque.

He serves specially composed wine arrangements and vintage Champagnes. Most wines can be ordered per glass.

Lunch Mon-fri: 12.00-14.30 Lunch Sat-Sun: 12.00-14.30 Diner: 18.30-22.30 Valet parking

Also very suitable for family and business dinners.

(Open) Mon - Sat 18:00 and 23:00 Sun 17:00 through 23:00 Open 365 days a year wifi available

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HIP & HOT

VOOGES bubblES & winES

pOnt 13

mappa

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HIP & HOT

bubbles & wines wine & champagne bar/bites

Nes 37 T. 020 - 422 33 18 www.bubblesandwines.com info@bubblesandwines.com In one of the quaintest streets of Amsterdam, and only one-minute-walk distance from famous Dam Square, you will find wine & champagne bar Bubbles & Wines.

In a modern, intimate chocolate brown ambiance you can enjoy more than 50 wines by the glass (including 6 sparkling) and over 200 by the bottle. Our specialties are our “wine flights”, three half glasses from one grape variety but from different wine regions. Make nice matches with our Gourmet Bites (luxury finger food) or just come in for a glass of Champagne, Pinot Grigio or Pinot Noir. Our friendly and professional staff will help you out choosing your wine and they will give you advice on what Bites will match the best. After dinner you can enjoy our choice of beautiful Grappas and other digestives or have another glass of your favorite wine. For gourmet lovers Bubbles & Wines is the best choice for a complete evening out!

Mon-Sat 15.30 - 01.00 Sun 14.00-21.00 Kitchen open - 00.45

POnT 13 restaurant

Haparandadam 50 T. 020 - 770 27 22 www.pont13.nl info@pont13.nl Restaurant Pont 13 is housed on an old ferry (pont=ferry) built in 1927. Until the 1990s, it used to travel back and forth across the IJ lake. When it was declared ready for the scrap heap, René Langendijk bought it to turn it into his dream restaurant. Since 2005, Pont 13 has its anchorage at the romantic post-industrial Westelijke Houthavens, characterized by a great deal of cultural development. A beautiful place to be, with a wonderful skyline – the Amsterdam harbor, interesting new architecture, and numerous boats of all kinds. The European cuisine of Pont 13 has an original character, with the Italian slow food tradition as inspirational starting-point. On an

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open fire organic dishes are prepared. The combination of the décor of the rebuilt ferry, the impressive view, and last but not at all least the slow food kitchen makes this a place where you just love to be. Distinctive are the relaxed, homely atmosphere and the delicious food. Pont 13 imports wines, meat and home-canned fruit from the beautiful Italian region Le Marche, where owner Rene has a little farm.

serving a festive multi-course dinner Lunch daily from 12.00 - 16.00 Dinner daily from 18.30 - 22.00

maPPa restaurant

Nes 59 T. 020 – 528 91 70 www.mappa.nl In the very heart of the city on the historical street Nes, Mappa is situated in a former coffee house opened in 1810 by the Frascati brothers who became famous for their very popular Frascati Café (from 1940 on). Later, the building was used as a theater with Frascati Café as a part of it. Since 2001, however, restaurant Mappa is the happy occupant. Mappa offers Italian cuisine and “everything is home-made and made with love.” Authentic Italian food is what Mappa offers, and the restaurant is proud of the fact that all its home-made dishes are made from fresh, biological products. Mappa is mainly known for its variety of pasta dishes, but besides the pastas it also has some beautiful antipasti (starters) and a few fish and meat specialties. The menu at Mappa is changed regularly to ensure creativity and quality in the kitchen. Needless to say, good Italian food goes hand in hand with beautiful wines. The wine list at Mappa is predominantly Italian, from small vineyards in Puglia to great wine masters such as Walter Massa. The interior of Restaurant Mappa is stylish in a timeless way; 60 people can be seated here. The staff at Mappa is friendly and always ready to help. As hospitality is very important to Mappa, you are guaranteed a wonderful evening out at the restaurant.

l’inviTe restaurant

Bloemgracht 47 T. 020 – 570 20 10 www.linvitelerestaurant.nl L’invite is an extraordinary Amsterdam restaurant in the heart of the the Jordaan in Old West. Located on one of the most beautiful canals in the Jordaan: the Bloemgracht in a historic canalhouse from 1628. While entering l’invite le Restaurant you will receive a warm welcome by Chef Aimé van der Veen and Restaurant Maître Gerben van Dalum. Chef Aimé cooks according to the classic French cuisine, but manages to surprise again and again with original, thoughtful flavor combinations and beautiful presentations. Maître Gerben provides a relaxed atmosphere and recommends beautiful matching wines to the different dishes. You are more than welcome for the culinary Chef ’s Lunch - 3 courses for € 35, - or a quick and light business lunch - 2 courses for € 19,50. In the evening there is the Menu du Chef for € 49,50 or you can make a choice of a small but very nice à la carte. At the site www. linvitelerestaurant.nl you will find the current menu, a photo impression of the restaurant, route information and you can instantly book a table.

Open : Tue – Sun for lunch and dinner Lunch : 12.00 - 15.00 and dinner from 18.00

Mappa is happy to welcome you.

Opening times kicthen: Monday - Wednesday from 18.00 - 22.00. Thursday - Saturday from 18.00 - 23.00.

Reservations recommended.

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Arts & Culture Text Wilag Kater Photography With thanks to contributors

CONCERTGEBOUW Mediterranean in Amsterdam 29 June - 31 August 2013 Each July and August, the Concertgebouw is reserved exclusively for the Robeco Zomerconcerten (Robeco Summer Concerts - ‘Robeco’ being a pension fund and sponsor). For more than 25 years, top artists and upcoming talent, be their genre classical, jazz or pop, have featured prominently on Amsterdam’s cultural summer agenda.

This year, the focus is on the summery feeling of the countries around the Mediterranean. For instance, classical works by the composers Puccini, Rossini and Ravel. But also jazz, tango and pop, performed by great names such as Al Jarreau, Carel Kraayenhof and Cristina Branco.

Jazz lovers will be delighted by the Robeco Jazz Club, where Wouter Hamel – one of the major names during this year’s Robeco Zomerconcerten – will perform two gigs. One of them will feature his colleagues Gio-

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vanca, Janne Schra, Roos Jonker, Benny Sings and Luky Fonz III. In addition to the Dutch singer/songwriter Hamel, other greats from the jazz world are on the bill, too, like saxophone player Benjamin Herman, the Castel/VanDamme quartet, Sabrina Starke and Mathilde Santing.

You can combine your evening of music with wonderful food, should you wish. Three-course meals will be served in the Robeco Summer Restaurant at the Concertgebouw for the duration of the Robeco Summer Concerts. During intermissions, you can enjoy champagne and sushi. Only the very best international artists will perform at the Concertgebouw until 31 August. www.concertgebouw.nl

VONDELPARK Theatre(s) right under the sun 2 June - 25 August 2013 What Hyde Park is to London and Central Park to New York, that is what the Vondelpark is to Amsterdam. The Vondelpark is an urban oasis right by the Leidseplein, ideal if you want to get away from the hectic city.

Each summer, starting in May or June, the park offers all kinds of cultural events and activities, such as performances in its open-air theatre, which is close to the park entrance on Van Eeghenstraat.

Since opening in 1865, the Vondelpark has been synonymous with music and theatre.

In the 1950s, the ‘Vondelparkparties’, started to be organised, followed during the 70s by hip ‘Happenings’ with the latest music, which started to attract more visitors than the official parties. As a result, the Vondelpark Open-air Theatre was founded in 1974, combining the Vondelpark-party and Happening to provide a summer programme that is free to all.

This summer, from 2 June until

25 August, the Friday evenings will be reserved for modern dance. Saturday afternoons will feature performances for children and jazz gigs, whereas Saturday evenings will include a variety of Dutch cabaret.

Sunday is given over to music: classical, lunchtime concerts followed by the popular Sunday afternoon programme of pop, rock, blues, jazz, reggae – you name it.

Each programme in the Vondelpark includes a main performance by professional artists and groups, preceded by performances by young and new talent.

During these performances, dancers, (classical) musicians and cabaret artists are given the opportunity to present themselves to a broad audience. www.openluchttheater.nl

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1.The Robeco Summer Concerts have been on Amsterdam’s cultural agenda for more than 25 years.

2. Candy Dulfer, a well-known Dutch saxophone player, is a welcome guest during the Vondelpark Open-air Theatre.

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ARTS & CULTURE

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FRANS HALS MUSEUM Bringing the masters together 23 March - 28 July 2013 In 2013, the Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem is celebrating its 100th birthday. One of the special exhibitions commemorating this milestone is entitled ‘Frans Hals – Eye to eye with Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian’. It is a true confrontation between the masters, making the short journey from Amsterdam to Haarlem more than worthwhile.

Frans Hals hangs in the museum alongside colleagues such as Titian, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck and Jordaens, yielding some very exciting comparisons. Master painters often drew inspiration from each other, and their work was often meant to surpass that which inspired them.

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With this in mind, visitors can see for themselves the huge artistic challenges that faced Frans Hals and which make him unique. Hals’ teacher, Karel van Mander, advised young painters to develop their own style, which was to be either very precise (like Breughel) or rather crude (like Titian, Tintoretto and Frans Hals).

The exhibition also shows how close Hals came to his Antwerp predecessors Van Dyck and Rubens in terms of formal portrait art. A lifelike selection shows work by Hals with his virtuoso brush strokes and the mimic of his laughing subjects.

The most spectacular, perhaps, is the confrontation between Hals’ last group portraits and the only master who at that time dared paint with the same bravoure: Rembrandt.

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The paintings in the exhibition ‘Frans Hals – Eye to eye with Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian’ have rarely, perhaps never been on display together. They’ve come from far and wide, including the National Gallery in London, the Prado in Madrid, the Louvre in Paris and various private collections. www.franshalsmuseum.nl

ARTZUID 2013 International Sculpture Route? Amsterdam South!

22 May - 22 September 2013 Every other year, those interested in sculpture and sculpture routes can feast on the International Sculpture Route ‘ArtZuid’ (‘Art South’) in Amsterdam. ‘ArtZuid 2013’ is being held from 24 May until 22 September. This year’s theme is Engagement. 50 sculptures will be on display along a route through Amsterdam’s Old South district, including the Apollolaan and Minervalaan.

‘ArtZuid’, which gained international award-winning acclaim in 2011, will this year feature work by non-western artists such as Ai Weiwei, El Anatsui, Dinh Q. Lê, Pascale Marthine Tayou and Romuald Hazoumè. Their work will be

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ARTS & CULTURE

1. In around 1623, Frans Hals painted a jovial lute player. Until 28 July, you can go to the exhibition ‘Frans Hals – Eye to eye with Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian’ at the Frans Hals museum in Haarlem to see works by Hals and other famous masters. The works by Hals betray his virtuoso brushwork and the mimic of his laughing figures.

2. If you would like to experience sculpture in Amsterdam Oud-Zuid, walk the three and a half hour route.

A map, catalogue and audio tour ( for iPhone) are available.

3. If you would like to know which sounds go with this 1898 painting of the Dam Squae by G.H. Breitner, then go to hall 17 of the Amsterdam Museum.

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placed alongside sculptures by western artists, including John Chamberlain, Chillida, Gabbarón, Ernesto Neto, Mario Merz, Erwin Wurm, Folkert de Jong and Frank Stella. Former director of Amsterdam’s prestigious Rijksmuseum, Henk van Os, selected the sculptures for ‘ArtZuid 2013’.

languages, can be downloaded from the website from 24 May 2013 and includes a route map, the sculptures and a children’s treasure hunt. ‘ArtZuid 2013’ is easy to get to by public transport: make your way to Amsterdam Zuid railway station, or hop on tram 2,16, 24, 25 or 5.

In front of the Hilton Hotel on the Apollolaan, you will find the ‘ArtZuid 2013’ visitor information centre, where you can get a map and catalogue.

The walk taking you past all the sculptures on display is free of charge and will take you at least three and a half hours.

There are signs with information and maps along the route.

www.artzuid.com

‘ArtZuid 2013’ also has an accompanying audio tour, which has been developed for the iPhone. The app, in various

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AMSTERDAM MUSEUM Dam Square in 3D sound(s) 28 March - 28 December 2013 What did the city sound like in the past? Which sounds have disappeared? Which are new?

What do particular sounds mean to Amsterdamers? The Amsterdam Museum presents the soundscape-installation Het geluid van Amsterdam (The Sound of Amsterdam).

Inside the installation, visitors can experience the sounds of Amsterdam’s largest and best-known square in 1895, 1935 and 2012. The installation, with its ‘soundscapes’, is interactive. The sounds of carts, pedlars, clocks and cars, for instance, can be added or removed. The soundscapes themselves have been created using modern recordings of

authentic things, like antique carriages.

The installation ‘Het geluid van Amsterdam’ can be found in hall 17 of the museum, opposite G.H. Breitner’s imposing 1898 painting of the Dam. Wearing the headphones, the sounds and the painting conjure the illusion of actually being on the Dam. The sounds reflect the influence of technological change upon the city’s soundscape.

In addition to the soundscapes, you can listen to stories about how the city’s population dealt with noise and silence, how the experience of sound changed during the World War II occupation years and about the measures that were taken to combat (excessive) noise. hart.amsterdammuseum.nl

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RIJKSMUSEUM Sculpture garden Henry Moore (and more) 22 June - 29 September 2013 On 22 June, the Rijksmuseum will open its new gardens with an exhibition of the work of British artist Henry Moore (1898-1986). For the first time in the Netherlands, 12 monumental sculptures by Moore will be on outdoor display. The exhibition will be the first in the Rijksmuseum’s completely restyled ‘green outdoor gallery’.

During the post-war years, Henry Moore gained world fame with his (half ) abstract sculptures. Often, they are based on natural, organic forms and have as theme a half-upright human figure (Reclining Figure). It is a theme that also resounds in the 12 bronze and fibreglass

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sculptures on display around the Rijksmuseum, providing a representative retrospective of Moore’s oeuvre. The modern sculptures look very impressive against the backdrop of the 19th century museum building.

With a playful water maze, post-war playground equipment designed by architect Aldo van Eyck and a 19th century greenhouse full of forgotten vegetables, the Rijksmuseum’s ‘green outdoor gallery’ has a lot more to offer than just the exhibition. And in the completely renovated Van Logteren garden house, visitors can enjoy a refreshing - or warming – drink. www.rijksmuseum.nl

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APPEL ARTS CENTRE Bourgeois Leftovers 20 April - 16 June 2013 Is art a product of its time?

And what to do with historically out-of-date works of art?

These types of questions dominate in the exhibition Bourgeois Leftovers at the Appel Arts Centre. In it, 19 contemporary artists use their work to provide commentary on a selection of 32 Dutch paintings belonging to the Van Abbemuseum in Eindhoven, paintings that go back to the period between 1910 and 1939.

The artists who produced the 32 still lifes, portraits and landscapes reflected the sentiments and consumerism of the ‘bourgeoisie’ at the time. The bourgeoisie quite consciously chose a traditionally figurative painting style. After World War

II, new, more modern forms of art quickly came to the fore, rendering the 32 paintings redundant. They became ‘Bourgeois Leftovers’.

Against this background, the Appel Arts Centre asked 19 contemporary artists to produce new meanings and stories in response to these Bourgeois Leftovers. Artist Matthieu Laurette, for instance, introduces a system for the purchase of the 32 objects for household use.

Jota Castro launches a series of proposals to destroy the 32 paintings. Other artists taking part in the exhibition include Marlene Dumas, Chris Evans, Gabriel Lester and author Lydia Davis. www.bourgeoisleftovers.com

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ARTS & CULTURE

1. During the post-war years, Henry Moore gained world fame with his (half) abstract sculptures.

2. During the interbellum, the painters of the still lifes, portraits and landscapes reflected the sentiments and consumerism of the ‘bourgeoisie’.

3. In Furthur Planetarium!, William Monk wants to make sure that physical painting is experienced as a very different form of engagement than the digital imagery of paintings.

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GRIMM GALLERY William Monk’s special take on painting 28 June 28 - 30 July 2013 Furthur Planetarium! is the third solo exhibition by the British artist William Monk at the Amsterdam gallery Grimm.

From 28 June until 30 July, Monk shows a selection of large-scale oil paintings, watercolours and distempers (wall paintings) that have been made during the last two years.

In ‘Furthur Planetarium!’

Monk wants to make sure that physical painting is experienced as a very different form of engagement than the digital imagery of paintings. Paintings are far more than the inferred edges on a computer screen.

In ‘Furthur Planetarium!’, this is the case with Paravent (La

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Honda), for example. In this painting, Monk creates the painterly equivalent of a forest, not a description of one. Monk invites the audience to be participating actors, as if strolling through the actual forest. In this way Monk investigates the ‘how’ of a painting rather than the ‘what’, thereby increasing awareness of the materials used and the processes involved in applying them to the canvas.

collection of the Gemeentemuseum Den Haag (City Museum The Hague) and in the Fries Museum Leeuwarden. Monk was most recently included in the group show curated by Tom Morton, ‘Recent British Painting’. www.grimmgallery.com

William Monk (1977, Kingston upon Thames) completed his residency at De Ateliers in Amsterdam in 2006 and now lives and works in London. In 2005, he received the Dutch Royal Award for painting. He was the winner of the Jerwood Contemporary Painters Award in 2009. Monk’s work has been exhibited in several group and solo exhibitions across Europe.

His work is included in the

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A market?

Yes, why not?!

ImagIne you’re In amsterdam for a few days. you’ve seen some museums, taken a boat trIp, perhaps wandered through the red lIght dIstrIct. lovely, all very ImpressIve but It’s tIme for somethIng dIfferent…

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FEATURE

Text Lizet Deutekom Photography Lizet Deutekom, Sunday Market, Amsterdam Marketing

Previous pages The atmosphere is great, the people are warm and friendly.

Right page (top) Combine a typical Dutch market in Amsterdam with a typical Dutch treat (herring) and you won’t be disappointed!

Right page (below) Amsterdam traders are renowned for their tact.

And they never become sly, or crafty, they just joke around to win you over. It’s in their blood…

The

weather is fair and you just want to relax a bit; stroll around and perhaps mingle with some true Amsterdamers, try some local delicacies, shop, watch the people go by… The perfect way to combine all of these things into one is by visiting one of Amsterdam’s many markets.

GREAT ATmosphERE, FRiEndly pEoplE A market? Yes, why not?! Certainly if it’s the spacious Pure Markt (Pure Market), a market that is held each Sunday in a different Amsterdam park. The park-setting lends these markets a very laid back, no-obligation, do-as-you-please feel. People sit themselves down on the grass, there’s plenty of room for the kids to run around and the paths are lined by a multitude of colourful stalls selling food and drink for all tastes. The stallholders are all producers who favour and savour good, honest, traditional and above all delicious food.

And they’re keen to share their knowledge with you, as well as the origins of the ingredients they use.

The atmosphere is great, the people are warm and friendly and the food is organic or local. And you’re always welcome to have a little taste. People go to the market to do their weekly shopping and at the same time fill their bellies. If you buy a bottle of rosé, you’ll probably be asked whether you’d like to borrow a few

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glasses so that you can drink it in the grass a little further along. Try saying ‘no’ to that idea! With a glass of rosé in hand, some farmhouse cheese, freshly roasted nuts, perhaps some cured meats and wonderfully fragrant tapanade, it’s almost impossible not to surrender to easy rhythm of the Pure Markt. Let’s hope the sun stays out!

UniqUE Finds A somewhat busier, urban take on markets can be experienced each Saturday in the heart of Amsterdam’s Jordaan neighbourhood. The Noordermarkt pioneered the phenomenon ‘farmers market’ in the Netherlands and attracts visitors from all across Amsterdam and beyond. In this quaint, centuries-old square, you’ll find dozens of stalls lavishly laden with organic products. To take home with you, or to enjoy on the spot.

Each Monday, the square is the venue of a small, but surprisingly diverse vintage market, where you can find clothing and curiosities. Be sure to be early, or else the really unique finds are likely already to have been found. The market is popular among locals and tourists alike – for its typical Amsterdam bustle, the live music, and lets not forget ‘Amsterdam’s best apple pie’. You’ll find it on the corner, at Café Winckel, but be warned: the queue starts way outside.

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FEATURE

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FEATURE

1. You’ll find rather special non-food products at the Pure Markt, too.

There’s professional advice on home interiors if you want it.

2. The ‘Pure Markt’ lives up to its name: here, you can get freshly squeezed juice from ultra-fresh wheatgrass. A shot of energy for the body – if you like that kind of thing…

3. Is the weather not playing ball? Then the dolls and the traders go indoors! (Sunday Market at the Westerpark) 4. One advantage of a local Dutch market, Amsterdam ones too, is the great variety of cheeses on offer. The choice is yours!

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EURopE’s lARgEsT dAily mARkET De Pijp, that other popular (formerly working-class) Amsterdam neighbourhood, has long been the setting of the famous Albert Cuypmarkt. Each day except Sundays, the Albert Cuypstraat is lined with some 260 stalls, making it the largest daily market in Europe. And there’s much more: behind the stalls and in the surrounding streets you will find lots of lovely little boutiques, cafés and restaurants.

The Albert Cuypmarkt is the place to go to experience Amsterdam’s true atmosphere, perhaps best exemplified by the banter and touting of the traders. You can get all kinds of rather ordinary, day-to-day products at the Albert Cuyp, but also flowers or freshly baked stroopwafels – those typically Dutch, flat biscuits filled with molten caramel. And since quite recently, the Wednesday market has been extended to include a number of organic stalls, like the ones you’ll find at the Noorder and Pure markets.

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CREATivE, ARTisTiC, inspiRing Something slightly different is the Sunday Market in the Westerpark. Yes, it’s a market and yes, it’s in a park. But the products and stallholders have interests beyond the culinary. You’ll find all kinds of things related to interior design, fashion, vintage, jewellery and affordable art (and if you do fancy a snack, there are stalls selling wonderful organic food and drinks, too!). The Sunday Market is a formula copied from London markets such as Camden, Portobello and Spitalfield, where you can indulge in all kinds of creative, artistic and inspiring products.

The largest daily market in Europe

The stallholders at the Sunday Market include established names, but upcoming talent from design academies, too. The Sunday Market promotes itself as the monthly fashion, art and design market in Amsterdam and sports the suitable slogan ‘shop till you drop and get inspired...’ It’s the same here as everywhere else: feel free to wander around, browse and sit yourself down in the grass to soak up some sun – in fact, you must! And should the weather not be cooperating when you go, it’s good to know that much of the action takes place inside the old,

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Feature

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gorgeously renovated buildings of the Westergasfabriek (a former coal gas factory), located in the park. They’re not always open to the public, so that makes this market extra special.

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stops, too. Park Frankendael is in the east and can be reached easily by tram 9 from Central Station or tram 12 from Amstel Station. www.puremarkt.nl nOOrderMarkt

Where and When?

Pure Markt

Pure Markt: each Sunday from 11:00-18:00 in different Amsterdam parks. The upcoming locations are listed below:

Noordermarkt: every Saturday from 9:00-16:00 farmers market and every Monday from 9:00-14:00 vintage market. The market is held in the heart of the Jordaan, by the Noorderkerk (Northern Church). www.noordermarkt-amsterdam.nl

1. Yes, this is the Netherlands: flowers! Visit the Albert Cuyp Market in the Albert Cuypstraat and you get a taste how colourful a Dutch market can be!

2. Lounge in the grass, enjoying something freshly purchased?

Amsterdamers do it and foreign visitors do it, too.

3. High or low temperature? Coffee!

albert CuyPMarkt

14 July 28 July 11 august 25 august 8 September 29 September 13 October

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amstelpark Park Frankendael amstelpark Park Frankendael amstelpark Park Frankendael amstelpark

The Amstelpark is in the south of the city, within walking distance of railway and metro station RAI, where tram number 4

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Albert Cuypmarkt on Albert Cuypstraat: each Monday through Saturday from 9:00-17:00. One end of the market can be reached on trams 16 and 24, the other on trams 3, 4, 12, and 25. www.albertcuypmarkt.nl Sunday Market

Sunday Market, every first Sunday of the month in Cultuurpark Westerpark from 12:00 – 18:00. Get there on tram 10 or bus 21.

The website has the most up-to-date information. www.sundaymarket.nl

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Looking for - ALL THE HOTSPOTS IN AMSTERDAM? - UPCOMING EVENTS IN AMSTERDAM? - ARTICLES ON AMSTERDAM? - NICE SOUVENIRS FROM AMSTERDAM?

Then there is only one place to be:

www.CityRush.nl THE OFFICIAL WEBSITE (AND ONLINE STORE!) OF RUSH ON AMSTERDAM!

CityRush CityRus Rush 34 I Rush on Amsterdam 76

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www.lovelyladies.nl

(for adults only)

Fast Facts AMSTERDAM TOURIST INFORMATION Besides providing tourist information such as hotel reservations, excursions and theatre tickets, the Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board (ATCB) provides information on excursions, guided walking tours, attractions, restaurants, shops, parking facilities and public transport. The information offices of the ATCB can be found at several locations: opposite Central Station, on platform 2 inside the station, on Leidseplein and at the Schiphol arrival hall.

ATCB – T 0900 4004040 (40 eurocents p.m.)

and, among other things, a free guided tour of the Amsterdam Diamond Group. You can buy the card for 24, 48 or 72 hours.

ATCB – T 0900 4004040 (40 eurocents p.m.), also: www.iamsterdam.com

INTERNET Internet stalls of the telephone booth type can be found all over the city centre. The WiFi identifcation ‘Hotspot Amsterdam’ allows you to connect to the internet from various locations with a wireless enabled desktop, laptop or smartphone within range of a hotspot zone. www.hotspotamsterdam.com

MAKING PHONE cALLS I AMSTERDAM cITy cARD In addition to public transport and a roundtrip of the canals, almost all the Amsterdam museums can be visited free of charge with the electronic I Amsterdam City Card. You’ll also receive a 25 % discount at restaurants and tourist attractions, free admission to the Holland Casino,

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To call abroad from the Netherlands, dial 00 followed by country code, area code and number. For the country codes, please see the Tele Info section in the Amsterdam phone book. The Netherlands country code is 31. For most public phones you need a phone card, available from post offices, ATCB offices (= tourist offices),

tobacconists, some supermarkets and department stores.

T 020 677 77 77 (or 777 77 77) Electric Taxi Company Taxi-E – T 881 00 44 44

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS • Central emergency: 112 • Doctor’s service: 0900 503 2042 • KPN telecom information: national 0900 8008 international 0900 8418

BANKS Banks are open on weekdays from 09:00 through 16:00 or 17:00 hrs. Most banks are closed on Monday mornings. Some larger branches stay open later on Thursday evenings.

cHANGING MONEy Money and traveller’s checks can be changed at banks, some hotels and specialised exchange offices such as GWK (at Central Station) and SUNRO Change.

TAXIS There are fewer taxi stands than there used to be, but these days it is much easier than before to hail a cab on the street.

TCA Amsterdam Taxi Centrale –

HIRING BIcycLES Bicycling is a wonderful way to get around Amsterdam. To hire a bike, look in the phone book under ‘Fietsen-verhuur’. A word of warning: always lock up your bike, as bike theft is rife. There is a free bicycle parking area at Central Station.

BIcycLE TAXIS An environmentally-friendly means of transportation in the city centre is offered by the bicycle taxi. You can hail them on the street or reserve one by telephone. www.wielertaxi.nl – T 06 1859 5153 (or 06 2824 7550) www.amsterdambiketaxi.info – T 06 454 13 725

TRAVELLING By WATER In Amsterdam, travelling by water can be done in all sorts of ways.

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FAST FACTS

Canal Bus stops near all the major museums, shopping areas and attractions.

T 020 626 55 74, address Weteringschans 26, www.canal.nl/bus Lovers Museum Boat leaves at the front of Central Station and stops at all the major museums.

T 020 530 54 12, address Prins Hendrikkade 25, www.lovers.nl Meyer’s Rondvaarten offers canal cruises and special arrangements on request.

T 020 623 42 08, address Damrak jetty

clamping is too, at least € 64. You also run the chance of having your car towed due to illegal parking. It will cost you a minimum of € 180 to get you car back! Paid parking in the city centre applies Monday through Saturday 09:00-24:00 and Sunday from 12:00-24:00 hrs.

Car parks can be found at ‘de Bijenkorf ’ (department store near Beursplein, off Damrak), Byzantium (near Leidseplein), Europarking (Marnixstraat 250), Heinekenplein, Museumplein, Prinsengracht 540-542, Waterlooplein and Central Station.

Stadstoezicht / Parking Authority – T 020 553 03 00

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Water Taxis are not cheap, but offer an enjoyable means of transportation.

T 020 535 63 63, address Stationsplein 8, www.watertaxi.nl

PARKING You are strongly advised not to take your car into the inner city.

Parking is expensive and wheelSummer 2013

GVB, Amsterdam’s public transportation company, provides integrated metro, tram and bus service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since 2010, a comprehensive chipcard ticket system allows you to travel on the metro, trams and buses, using just one card. The so-called ‘OV chip card’ is available at the GVB office in front of Central Station,

at railway station ‘Amsterdam Lelylaan’ and at railway station ‘Amsterdam Zuid’. The chip card is also available at the ATCB tourist offices, many supermarkets and most tobacconists. When travelling by tram, single-trip chip cards are available from the conductor (please walk to the rear end of the tram).

GVB travel info – T 0900 9292, also: www.gvb.nl

SCHIPHOL AIRPORT How do you travel to Amsterdam Schiphol International Airport?

By car: Schiphol Airport is only 20 minutes by car from the centre of Amsterdam. The airport is centrally located on the motorway network in the country’s urban agglomeration of Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam and Utrecht. All these cities are rather close at hand, while the rest of the country is easily accessible via the A1, A2, A4 and A9 motorways.

By train: Schiphol can be reached by train from the city centre in 10-15 minutes. There are also excellent rail connections to the airport from the rest of the Netherlands and from abroad. Schiphol has a stop for the high-speed train, too, taking you to Antwerp, Brussels and Paris. Train tickets are sold at the Netherlands Railways counters and ticket machines at Schiphol Plaza. There are money changing machines here if you need coins.

BUSINESS CENTRE SCHIPHOL All business and secretarial services are available at Schiphol Airport, including offices and meeting rooms – T 020 653 24 80.

Also: Schiphol Information – T 0900 0141

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De Tafel van Twaalfhoven Dutch design at its best www.tafelvantwaalfhoven.nl T 0031 (0) 6 263 469 42

Birkenstock Store You can find the biggest choice of sandals, slippers, clogs and collectors items specially made for the Birkenstock Store Amsterdam here.

The Birkenstock Store Amsterdam 1e Constantijn Huygenstraat 76 and Westermarkt 19 T. (020) 689 1267

SHOPPING AREAS

Amsterdam’s Shopping Areas CITY CEnTrE Two of the city’s most popular shopping streets can be found near Dam Square. Running from Central Station to the Dam, Nieuwendijk has a misleading name - it means ‘new dike’ - for it is actually the oldest dike in the city. This shopping area with numerous clothing stores, boutiques, shoe stores, souvenir shops, fast-food restaurants, etcetera, bustles with tourists. Kalverstraat runs from the other side of the square to the Munt. Named after the calf market that was held here in the 15th century, it is teeming with fashionable clothing, footwear and gift stores.

The boulevard Rokin also starts at Dam Square. Just ignore the construction going on (for the NorthSouth Line metro) and stroll along the stores with women’s wear, gorgeous shoes, art, cigars, diamonds and jewellry. The short but very busy shopping street Heiligeweg crosses Kalverstraat just before the Munt and leads to Koningsplein where you’ll find the world-famous floating Flower Market and Leidsestraat, ending up in renowned Leidseplein.

9 STrAATJES

north from Rozengracht as far as Brouwersgracht are what original Jordaaners consider to be the Jordaan proper, but the Jordaan actually extends south from Rozengracht to Elandsgracht and includes indoor market De Looier, which is the largest permanent indoor Art and Antiques Centre in the country.

UTrECHTSESTrAAT To the east of the city, between famous Rembrandtplein and Frederiksplein lies Utrechtsestraat,

SPIEGELKWArTIEr Spiegelkwartier, a shopping area in the eastern part of the city centre, has an international reputation for fine art and antiques. Concentrated in and around Nieuwe Spiegelstraat, this district close to the Rijksmuseum boasts over 80 antique shops and galleries. An area that’s a must for lovers of art and antiques!

MUSEUMKWArTIEr

Endless ideas for events

Hobbemastraat, Van Baerlestraat and the Byzantium plus chic P.C. Hooftstraat are part of the Museum Quarter in the south of the city and famous for its designer boutiques. Shoppers will find virtually every famous label and fashion house here, among them Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, René Lezard, Chanel, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Louis Vuitton, Roberto Botticelli and Tod’s, to name just a few.

APOLLOKWArTIEr

Are you looking for a venue for your event, product launch or company party? Of course there is plenty of choice, until you start looking for an inspiring environment as well. Thatís when it is worth considering the Amsterdam Beurs van Berlage. Its unique history and impressive ambiance will turn your event into something truly special. We offer 21 different rooms for 50 to 1,200 persons, and our very own catering company Maison van den Boer can make sure your guests want for nothing. Have we given you any ideas?

(The Nine little streets) This lively and picturesque neighbourhood encompassing the cross streets between Singel and Prinsengracht, in the area between Raadhuisstraat and Leidsestraat, offers a great variety of shopping, OLD WEST restaurants and cafés. The area is Not far from the Jordaan lies1 also fascinating for its architec- BvB.adv_Evenementen_148x105_ENGELS.indd Old West with, among others, ture: indeed, the 9 Straatjes is a Kinkerstraat and the Ten Kate microcosm of canal-belt architecMarket. Close to the Vondelpark, tural styles. parallel to Overtoom (these days JOrDAAn known for its great number of inThis district (to the West of the terior decorating shops as well as center) may be Amsterdam’s most variety of restaurants) and within famous neighbourhood besides a stone’s throw of the city’s centre the ‘Walletjes’ (Red Light District). is Kinkerstraat, a cozy shopping The streets and canals extending area characterised by an interestSummer 2013

ing mix of people and cultures, a great variety of shops, a busy but friendly atmosphere and the pleasant Ten Kate market which crosses Kinkerstraat.

Beautiful villas and luxury hotels abound in the chic, elegant district known as the Apollokwartier (Apollo Quarter). Go and have a look at Cornelis Schuytstraat, and be sure to leave yourself some time for a leisurely stroll along Beethovenstraat.

DE PIJP

The De Pijp district, roughly rectangular in shape, is located to the Endless ideas southeast of the city centre, just beyond the girdle of canals, close a popular shopping street rich to Leidseplein en Rembrandtplein.

14:43:30 in history. Undulating over16-07-2010 the Its perimeters are demarcated by bridges that cross the HerenStadhouderskade and the Amstel. gracht, Keizersgracht and PrinsenIt has become a very popular gracht canals, Utrechtsestraat is neighbourhood, a true cultural renowned for its many speciality melting pot and boasts, among stores and boutiques and a great others, a great variety of (ethnic) variety of (international) restaurestaurants and the Albert Cuyp rants.

Market.

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Listing Hotel

Listing 2- STAR HOTELS Acostar Hotel Alp Hotel Amistad Hotel Amsterdam Wiechmann Hotel Armada Hotel Art Gallery Hotel Asterisk Hotel Budget Hotel Barbacan Budget Hotel Flipper City Hotel Cordial Hotel Family Hotel Verdi Hoksbergen Hotel Hotel 83 Hotel Adolesce Hotel de Gerstekorrel Hotel de Munck Hotel Diann Hotel Freeland Hotel Hegra Amsterdam Centre Hotel Hermitage Amsterdam Hotel Iris Hotel Kap Hotel Max Hotel Monopole&Appartementen Hotel old Quarter Hotel Parkzicht Hotel Plantage Hotel Rembrandt Hotel Sipermann Hotel Washington ITC Hotel Koopermoolen Poet Hotel Amsterdam Water Front

82 I Rush on Amsterdam

3-STAR HOTELS In the lobby of the following hotels Sphinx Hotel

Amstel Botel Best Western Dam Square Inn Best western Leidse Square Hotel Bellevue Hotel Borgmann Villa Hotel Boutique Hotel Maxime Delta Hotel City Centre Floris France Hotel Hampshire Hotel Beethoven Hampshire Hotel Theatre District Amsterdam Hampshire Hotel Prinsengracht Hem Hotel Hotel Aalders Hotel Alexander Hotel Alfa Plantage Hotel Amstelzicht Hotel Arena Hotel Blyss Hotel Bronckhorst Hotel Casa 400 Amsterdam Hotel CC Hotel Central Park Hotel Citadel Hotel D’Amsterdam Hotel Europa 92 Hotel Luxer Hotel Nes Hotel Nieuw Slotania Hotel V Hotel van Gogh Hotel Zandbergen Ibis Amsterdam Airport Jupiter Hotel Meiniger Hotel Amsterdam City West NL-Hotel Museumplein NL-Hotel district Leidseplein Nova Hotel Amsterdam Owl Hotel

Park Inn by Radisson Amsterdam Airport Prins Hendrik Prinsenhotel Qbic Hotel WTC Amsterdam Rembrandt Classic RobertRamon Remco Hotel Amsterdam City West Sandton Hotel de Filosoof Singel Hotel The Bridge Hotel The Concert Hotel The Times Hotel Tulip Inn Amsterdam Centre Tulip Inn Amsterdam Riverside

In the lobby of the following hotels Amsterdam House Hotel Eureka Bastion Hotel Amsterdam Centrum - Southwest Campanile Hotel & Restaurant Amsterdam South - East Hampshire Hotel - Lancaster Amsterdam Hotel Sint Nicolaas Hotel the Exchange Ibis Amsterdam Centre Ibis Amsterdam City Stopera Ibis Amsterdam City West Lloyd Hotel

Summer 2013

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