Torres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Black Volume 2 • Issue 7 • April/May 2007 • patagoniablacksheep.com cover image by Diego Araya ©
Organizing Travels in Patagonia
FREE
Sheep
Patagonia prepares for winter •Speed record set in Paine •2nd Annual Big Rock Festival in Natales
RECYCLE THIS PAPER - PASS IT ON! ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE
News from the front line Letter from the Editor -Rustyn Mesdag
www.patagoniablacksheep.com Published by Southern Cross Ltda. The Black Sheep Organizing Chilean Patagonia Patagonia, Chile ph +56•61•415749 Editor in Chief: Rustyn Mesdag Sales Manager: Pilar Irribarra Consultant: Bill Penhollow Contributors: Diego Araya Pia Urbina John Pomietlasz Marjan Alkema Andy Tubbs The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by life abroad. The opinions within the Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers. We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name, and always remain the Black Sheep.
After being here a few years, we are still constantly trying to figure out how tourism services work in and around Torres del Paine. You see, all the services like transportation, refugios, campsites, lodgings, boats, and most programs are independently owned and operated. They don’t necessarily work together or for CONAF (the park service). They all do their own thing and make and change the rules as they see fit. To top it off, they don’t really need to tell anyone about their changes during the season. There is not one main info source where a confused traveler can go and get all the updated info (this, by the way, is why the Black Sheep exists). So now we find ourselves nearing the end of the big boom of the 2006-07 season. This is the time of year when things start slowing down, so do all the services around the Torres del Paine. It’s the time of year where, while entering the park, you need to stay on your toes and try to be ahead of the game, so as to not run into any unexpected problems. So here are a few things to keep in mind during the changing months of April and May: The refugios will pretty much be business as usual during April. But in May Refugio Dickson will be closing. Also Perros, Chileano and Seron. Refugio Grey, Los Torres and Paine Grande will be open until the end of May. Paine Grande will only be closed for two months (for maintenance), but then will open again in Augest. But again, things change around here all the time, so contact the refugios directly for more details.
Vivir mejor con un agua más pura Atención hoteles, restaurantes, embarcaciones marinas. Ofrecemos a toda la XII Región, las mejores plantas de tratamiento de aguas servidas, separadores de líquidos livianos y plantas de tratamiento de aguas servidas marinas. Asistencia técnica y mantención permanente.
Contáctenos a los teléfonos 415749-414723 / email: mandalaandino@yahoo.com
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
The bus and transportation companies start changing too. Right now, there are always early morning and afternoon buses from Natales to the Torres del Paine. After contacting the transportation companies to find out about schedule changes, we realized that it’s not that easy to get a straight answer. But from what we can gather, most will still be operating morning and afternnon buses for most in April, but in May the afternoon buses will be mostly shutting down. After May it looks like the transfers to TdP will be upon request only, or you will have to hire private transportation. A rental car is always an option too. The buses to Calafate will still be running in April, but schedules are changing. In May we can’t seem to get any solid info on this, so like I said, it’s best to just give yourself a bit of lead time to find out some of these facts by contacting the company directly when you get here. Programs, like the Up River zodiac trips will be running, but not everyday, and will have a minimum passenger requirement. The ice hikes on Glacier Grey keep running until April 21st, but then that’s it for the ice until next season.
You will have to look around for ‘extra’ types of excursions. Kayaking depends on weather, horseback riding depends on availability and so on and so forth. If you are staying in the refugios, then there is not as much as a problem finding an available bunk (which is nice). This time of year the leaves start changing colors (which makes the park stunning) and the mountain tops get covered with snow. The crowds in the park start subsiding and the trails become your own. Its a great time to be in Torres del Paine. The weather definitly gets colder and things start to freeze and you may get dusted with snow while trekking. But welcome to Fall in Patagonia. Dress warm and be safe. Be prepared to roll with the punches and improvise and overcome. Don’t be shy on the trail. Talk with people you meet about any news they might have. Word of mouth is always the best source of info while traveling.
The 5 must-do’s while in Puerto Natales: Los 5 imperdibles de Puerto Natales: -Walk the coastline to catch the views of Balmaceda Glacier, Mt. Tenerife and Paine Grande which is located in the park. *Recorrer la costanera con una hermosa vista al Monte Balmaceda, Cerro Tenerife y Paine Grande. -Walk up the main road of Santiago Bueras to the big ´Jesus on the cross´ monument. Here is one of the best overviews of Puerto Natales and the Ultima Esperanza. *Subir al “mirador de la cruz” en la avenida Santiago Bueras y contemplar la panorámica de la ciudad y el Seno Ultima Esperanza -Ordering one of the famous local meals: Asado Lamb or the world class King Crab. *Probar el asado de cordero magallánico y la deliciosa centolla del mar austral. -Take a visit to the Puerto Bories Museum. The town center is about 4km away, but easily reached by bicycle, on foot or taxi. Bike is best. *Visitar el Museo de Puerto Bories distante a unos 4 Km. del centro de la ciudad, puedes llegar caminando, en bicicleta o en taxi. -A walk to the end of Avenue Puerto Montt. Here you reach the beautiful boat dock where all the local fishing boats are docked. Bring your camera. *Caminar hasta el final de la Av. Pedro Montt para fotografiar los botes y embarcaciones en el muelle de pescadores .
New Northern Patagonia National Park Valle Chacabuco
Patagonia National Park will be located in Chile’s Valle Chacabuco mostly centered on a 70,000 hectare farm that was purchased by Conservación Patagonica. Doug Tompkins, a multi-millionaire from the clothing industry, and his wife Kristine are ardent conservationists that have acquired 800,000+ hectares through their Conservation Land Trust. Kristine Tompkins developed the Land Trust Conservación Patagonica to purchase lands in Patagonia that will be restored, developed and absorbed into the current string of national parks that have been created and sustained by these land trusts. The overall plan of purchasing and protecting these lands involves revitalizing overgrazed and damaged landscape that results from the practice of unsustainable ranching. Patagonia National Park’s location protects areas from the Andean foothills, through the Chacabuco Valley’s grasslands and westward to Rio Baker. This region will provide an area for huemul deer, herds of guanaco, and the puma to roam and populate. One of the many steps upon purchase is the removal of livestock and its fencing, cleanup of former ranches and eradication of non-native plant species. A master conservation and restoration plan, run by a wildlife manager, includes construction of park infrastructure is also put into place. Patagonia National Park will showcase a healthy and intact ecosystem that has been restored through ambitious planning by ecologists who believe in their mission.
Torres del Paine Campamento Italiano
Campamento Italiano got its name long ago from an Italian climbing expedition to climb the Cuernos. After being just a climbers campsite for years, from 1980 onwards Italiano is an official free Conaf campsite. In 2002 the first park rangers where stationed there, mostly to prevent tourists from starting forest fires. They were guarding the area, but without facilities, they lived in tents. In 2004 a house was built in Italiano, all materials arrived at the place carried by humans. The number of people spending the night at Italiano has been growing ever since. In high season there are counted up to 150 tents a night at the campsite. Using this campsite is a great way to visit Valle del Frances with less time constraints. Waking up in the morning in Italiano gives ample time to see the Valley and move on to your next camp before dark. This valley got its name from a Frenchman that used to have cattle in the area. The animals were more in the area around Pehoe and Italiano and were never really found up in the valley. The valley was named after this Frenchman who’s name was Bader and the valley between Valle del Frances and Valle Ascencio still bares his name, Valle Bader. Right now the only facilities in Italiano are restrooms. The campsite is situated in a Lenga tree forest that offers trekkers a lot of protection from wind & rain. Valle del Frances tends to attract bad weather. This together with the growing number of people staying there, a new project is planned for construction. This will feature a protected area for campers to cook and relax out of the weather. CONAF says that this project will be ready by next season. April/May 2007
Off the beaten path in Puerto Natales Dumestre Road
In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera! If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedalling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “el camino a Dumestre”). You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless they seem by the sea. The farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. You’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Península.
erratic rock.com Hostel • Guides • Rentals
e
er h e r a You
...or here
New ¨Overland¨ Route
El Chalten to Villa O´Higgins We´ve received the good word from a trusted backpacking scout roaming the wild Patagonian lands. The intelligence indicates new information about an ¨overland¨ route from El Chalten, Argentina, to Villa O´Higgins, Chile - the enchanting southern tip of Carretera Austral. Here’s a splendid idea for an alternative trip and how you can do it: If you take a bus from El Chalten to Lago Del Desierto (its cost is 35 Argentine pesos,) hike 12 hours to catch the ferry crossing, or break up the hike into two days. It’s also possible to take a boat across El Lago Del Desierto, which reduces hiking time to about seven hours. But if you’re hiking inclined, you could also skip the bus entirely, and basically hike the road to the lake. Ferries go on Saturdays and Wednesdays and cost 35 US dollars. Our scout also reports that Saturdays are the most reliable option; during the down season (May through October) Wednesday ferries don’t operate. Want to go deeper? A bus operates every Tuesday from Villa O´Higgins to Cochrane. Enjoy. www.villaohiggins.cl
Tell your friends. Don’t tell the guidebooks. Baquedano 719 Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile +56-61 410355
I’d love a Jacuzzi facing the sea and the glaciers
and a nice cosy bed
and a cool place to read and a fresh locally brewed beer and some good simple food and a big breakfast with some real expresso coffee
Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 Punta Arenas +56-61 241029 remezon@hotmail.com
Residencial
Bernardita Regular dorms & Private rooms with breakfast, hot showers, phone, private bathroom and cable TV - Tourist Information - Torres del Paine & surrounding areas O´Higgins 765 - ph & fax (56-61) 411162 Puerto Natales, Chile email itat@mixmail.com
and to sleep in without hearing the vaccum cleaner first thing in the morning
HOTEL SPA Ladrilleros105 I Puerto Natales (061) 413 609 I www.indigopatagonia.com
Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine Questions & Answers
What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 to 2.5 hours. What time do the buses leave in the morning? In April and May, most �������������������������� of the buses pick-up between 7 to 8am. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season closed campsites are free. So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas.
At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am. What about midday? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, except for the supermarkets. Where can I buy camping food in town? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located one block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes. How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? April to September, pretty damn cold. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? If they are open in the off-season then yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person one way. 17.000 round trip. But it shuts down in the off-season. Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.
How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits.) How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter. Are there backpackers here in winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ideas when possible, but there is a
Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea
Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories
Puerto Natales, Chile
i lip
hi A. Prat
Eberhard
$
.P
Magallanes
B. Arana
Bories
B
T. Rogers
Señoret
Valdivia
V v$ $
M. Bulnes
Chorrillos
v
Balmaceda
H
B. Zamora
v
Need More? Galvarino
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
v
E. Ramirez
Yungay
Baquedano
Miraflores
Esmeralda
B. Encalada
C. Pinto
O’Higgins Magallanes
P. Montt
Ladrilleros
NAVIMAG
$
lot of Patagonia out there that has no public buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town. Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town. Why do I get given a piece of little receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously. Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you. Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang. Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question... but you could always help and pick some up. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine? No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know. Are there any Park Rangers on the W or curcuit in the off-season? Yes - until mid-April. Afterwards only at Pehoe.
A free information talk is given at Erratic Rock everyday at 3pm. It includes information about the Park, logistics, food prep, programs, clothing and any questions you might have. Need a trekking partner? The 3 o’clock talk is a great place to meet other solo trekkers! Bring pen & paper, sit with some real coffee and figure out what you need and who’s going where.
Torres del Paine Bus Schedules
4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY
Via Paine / Andescape - Eberhard 599 - Ph 412877 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
Trip 1
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Trip 2
Trip 1
Trip 2
Puerto Natales
7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.00
Laguna Amarga
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Gomez -Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga
7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.15
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Natales - Torres del Paine
Hotel • Restaurant • Cafeteria • Hand Crafts • Massage Travel Agency & The best pisco sour in town!
Torres del Paine - Natales
Andescape Buses JB - Arturo Prat7.30 258 - Ph 410242 (Laguna Amarga) Ph 412877 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
"AQUEDANO 0UERTO .ATALES
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
15.00
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales
7.30
10.30
14.00
(Pudeto) Administration
13.00
Laguna Amarga
9.45
12.30
16.30
Pudeto
13.30
13.45 17.30
20.00
19.30
22.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
(Administration) Laguna Amarga 14.30
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
Gomez Ph 415700
7.30
17.00
(Laguna Amarga)
14.00
18.30 19.00
15.00
Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales
Remember: Hostería Las Torres operates a transfer that connects to all the (Pudeto) buses that arrive at and leave from Laguna Amarga (cost is13.45 $2 USD). (Administration) Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park) JB 7.30 (Laguna Amarga) El Calafate 5 hrs TDP L. Amarga Ph 412824 Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto (Pudeto) Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin (Administration)
13.00
Tomás Rogers 38 - Puerto Natales, Chile - (56-61) 414773
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez Ph 411111 E. Ramírez 399
7.15 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 7.30 10.00 13.30 18.00
Buses Fernandez Ph. 242313 Arm. Sanhueza 745
7.00 8.30 15.00 19.00
Bus Sur Ph. 244464 José Menéndez 552
Bus Sur Ph 411859 Baquedano 668
Bus Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board April/May 2007
$8.50 $13.00 $15.00 $59.00
Dorm bed Camping Sleeping bag 2 person Tent Mattress
www.chileaustral.com itat@mixmail.com
8.00 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 8.30 14.00 18.30 19.30
Comfortable rooms, Continental breakfast, private bathrooms, 24-hour reception, cable tv, multilingual, telephone
9.00 15.00 17.00 19.00
Hostal Francis Drake Phone & Fax +56-61 411553 contact@hostalfrancisdrake.com Phillipi 383 Pto Natales, Chile
Torres del Paine Refugio Information
These prices are in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.
Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos albergue@lastorres.com +56-61 360360
Andescape - Dickson, Grey andescape@terra.cl +56-61 412592 $25.00 $7.00 $7.50 $13.00 $3.50
Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
Twin Rooms Double Rooms Library Restaurant
Hostal
Isla Morena
15.00 2 hrs 30 3 hrs 15 14.00 3 hrs 45 13.00
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
Bus Pacheco Ph 414513 Baquedano 500
www.aquaterrapatagonia.com
$8.00 $12.00 $14.00 $63.00
Dorm bed Camping Sleeping bag 2 person Tent Mattress
$33.00 $7.00 $7.00 $11.00 $3.00
Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain Lodge loreto.c@verticepatagonia.cl +56-61 412742 Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
$9.00 $12.00 $15.00 $63.00
Dorm bed Camping Sleeping bag 2 person Tent Mattress
$35.00 $7.00 $9.00 $14.00 $3.00
Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile Phone / Fax 56•61•415285
Mmmm...
Handmade Chocolate Gourmet Espresso Real Hot Chocolate
On the corner of Magallanes and Señoret ph 56-61-413723
www.cormorandelasrocas.com cormorandelasrocas@gmail.com
Sheep Shearing
Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61 This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a 1 hour massage. Valid season 2006-07.
10% off Trekkers Massage
Discounts for Travelers The Black Sheep would like to thank all the local businesses that make being a traveler a little easier.
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
5% off any cash purchase
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
es 23 Buln 6-61 412 5 + ph
5% off any purchase
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
10% off any program www.aquanativapatagonia.com
Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile ph. 415749
D ow n Tow n H o s t e l cash discount 10% off Address: Armando Sanhueza 555 Punta Arenas, Chile www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Eberhard 226 -Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a regional cheese plate with the purchase of wine for two. A. Prat 337 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412869
ServilLaundry
BIG Breakfast
10% off
from 6 AM
Laundry Service for Travelers
PUNTA ARENAS ERRAZURIZ 891 FONO: 240214
PUERTO NATALES BARROS ARANA 299 FONO: 413622
EMPORIO de la Pampa
off % 10 anyetería caf chase les pur299 Pto. Nat9a
real expresso...
10% off
for laundry drop off before 10am
Indian Adventure Travel
15% off rentals 10% off other services Bulnes 469 Pto Natales, Chile +56-61 415753 www.indianadventure.cl
O’ Sole Mio
Restaurant
10% off any purchase
Punta Arenas, Chile O’Higgins 974 Phone: 242026
osolemio@mail15.com
Ladrilleros105 I Puerto Natales (061) 413 609 I www.indigopatagonia.com
Mountain House Address: Bories 655 L-2 Punta Arenas, Chile
10% off any cash purchase Phone / Fax 56•61•415285 Barros Arana 233 Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile
10% off any purchase This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on chocolate, coffee, ice cream & brownies.
Finding the Patagonia 5 by bill penhollow Most of us are familiar with Africa’s famous “big five”: the buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, lion and leopard. However, few are familiar with the Patagonian Five (probably because I just came up with it to get published). Though they are not as big or dangerous as their counterparts in Africa, the P5 prove to be just as unique and even harder to observe (except for the guanacos!). A lot of luck is needed to observe all five in the park. Hopefully, the descriptions that follow will help trekkers in Torres del Paine be aware of what to look for and where to look for them. GUANACO: A South American cameloid relative of the llama and the alpaca. Sleek and strong, with brownish-white bodies and long necks. They are found in the steppe areas of Laguna Amarga, Laguna Azul, on the drive from the entrance to Lago Pehoe, and Laguna Verde. Guanacos feed on grasses, lichen, and shrubs. They breed once a year and give birth to their “chulengos” between November and February. In the winter months they congragate in herds of up to 400 animals grazing in the Lago Pehoe area of the park. HUEMUL: The Huemul or Andean deer is a small, compact deer, that measures on average just 1.5 meters in length. They can be found on the road between the Administration and Hostería Grey, near Western Bountries, around Lago Grey, and along the Pingo tram. The Huemul is on the brink of extinction. Due to man’s forest fires and encroachment on its habitat now they are strictly protected. They are very shy and difficult to observe. In 1834 it was incorporated into the Chilean coat of arms.
PUMA: The largest of Patagonia’s predators, pumas are closely related to the North American mountain lion. Pumas thrive in a variety of habitats from Alaska to the bottom of Tierra del Fuego. It has the largest range of any of the big cats. It can be found both inside and outside of the park, from steppe to dense forest. The puma’s only enemy is man, they are protected by law, but are still hunted by ranchers. Trekkers will be lucky to see more than a track. ÑANDU: Also known as the Rhea, the ñandu is a member of the ostrich family. They are found on the main entrance drive to the park, and along the road towards Laguna Verde. There is no visual difference between male and female ñandus. The Hareem of females lay all of their eggs in one nest and the male sits on the eggs and watches over the 30 to 40 “charitas” (chicks). They are noted for their speed and zig-zag escape patterns. The Ñandu is recognized as the Chilean symbol of the Magellan region. CONDOR: The condor is the largest member of the Vultrine family. It nests on high cliff faces and soars over the entire park. The black “fingers” at the tips of the 2.5-meter wings, plus its bright white collar, are the trademarks of this symbol of Chile. They produce only one chick every other year. The Condor appears with the huemul on the Chilean national emblem.
Pour ceux qui habitent l’extreme austral du continent, la Patagonie n’est pas seulement un territoire, une frontière ou une étendue physique... la Patagonie est un sentiment, est une manière de vivre. Bien qu’elle n’aie pas de limites officielles, on considère généralement qu’elle couvre les territoires compris entre le 42° parallèle sud matérialisé par le Río Negro en Argentine et le Cap Horn, la dernière extremité de l’Amérique. Epine dorsale du sous-continent, la Cordillère des Andes s’étire jusqu’aux archipels fuégiens et plonge sous la Mer de Drake et le Cap Horn avant de ressurgir sur la péninsule antarctique. Frontière naturelle (et souvent discutée) entre le Chili et l’Argentine, elle sépare la Patagonie en deux zones géographiquement très distinctes, mais contenant un même coeur, une même culture, les mêmes traditions. A l’Ouest du continent (le côté chilien), prédomine la forêt australe, dense et soumise à un important régime de précipitations (jusqu’à 4000 mm/an), elle croît jusqu’aux abords des fjords de la côte déchiquetée du Pacifique, sur une bande de terre qui dépasse rarement les 100 km de large...A l’Est (le côté argentin), la cordillère ayant barré l’accès aux trombes d’eau du Pacifique, prédomine une steppe semi-aride constituée en mesetas qui s’étendent jusqu’aux falaises désséchées de la côte Atlantique. Cette partition se retrouve en Terre de Feu, mais selon un axe est-ouest; au nord la steppe et au sud la montagne. April/May 2007
Relaxation Therapies O u t d o o r Tu b s Massages Natur al Bar Outdoor Center Eb er hard 161 - Puer to Natales, Chile +56-61 415749
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Le royaume du silence Voici le royaume du silence: la Patagonie. Ce n’est pas un pays, ni une région administrative d’un quelconque état latino-américain. La Patagonie, le royaume du vent, du froid et du silence, c’est cette lointaine terre du bout du monde qui s’étend sur le cône sud de l’Amérique Latine et que se partagent le Chili et l’Argentine.
relaxation specialists...
magellan discovered patagonia... let us show it to you! Manuel Luis Rodríguez U.
Vastes secousses télluriques et périodes glaciaires ont donné aux Andes de Patagonie ce relief si particulier de pics et d’aiguilles rocheuses, dont les sommets dépassent rarement les 3000 mètres. Des périodes glaciaires, il est resté deux gigantesques glaciers continentaux: le Champ des Glaces Patagoniennes Nord – Campo de Hielo Patagónico Norte (4500 km²) et le Champ des Glaces Patagoniennes Sud – Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur (13500 km²), qui déroulent leurs tentacules gelés sur le versant oriental de la cordillère et jusque dans les fjords de la côte pacifique du continent. La Patagonie reste encore un endroit où la nature est plus forte que les hommes. Lorsque nous sortons des villes lointaines au Magellan, lorsque nous avons pris la longue route vers Natales ou vers l’ile de la Terre du Feu, a travers le Detroit de Magellan, il y a quelque chose d’invisible, quelque domaine impenetrable qui nous fait l’accueil dans l’étendue de la pampa. C’est le silence. Le silence acompagne au verger et au gardien des moutons, qui traverse avec son troupeau comme étant un souvenir des années lointains. Le long silence qu’acompagne le vent, le silence qui tourne autour du coiron, qui enveloppe les incroyables arbres tordus le long de la route. C’est le même silence qui transite dans les rues nocturnes de Punta Arenas, avec ses restos traditionnels, avec ses plats de mouton grillé avec de pommes de terre, cette ville innondéezzz de souvenirs d’une époque glorieuse du début du siecle: palais extraordinaires a l’architecture europeenne fin XIXème siècle. Silence dans la belle demeure de Sara Braun, le palais le plus beau en plein centre ville, construite par des architectes français... Silence...silence en Patagonie.
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
tested in patagonia
torres del paine
Ruperto’s Pub
blacksheepchile@gmail.com
El Living Restaurant - Rum & Reggae fest
20.00
Open Beer Garden being held at Chile Pub Beer Garden en Pub Chile
20.00
Informaciones fono: 415749 -
3 person team amateur triathlon - cash prize Triatlón. Sector Costanera
10.00
Free crafts bazaar Feria de las pulgas en Feria Artesanal
Friday, April 13, 2007
15.00
Thursday, April 12, 2007
Garbage Clean up Race - 3 person teams - cash prize Limpieza playa por equipos Soccer tournament - 5 person teams - cash prize Campeonato de mini fútbol Closing Live Music Festival - Ruperto Bar Fiesta Musical en Ruperto
������ ���� ���� �� ������ �������
���������
- For more information call 415749
15.00 20.00
9.00
Saturday, April 14, 2007
For updated Big Rock schedules, locations & details, contact any of the below sponsors: Para más detalles contactar a alguno de las empresas mencionadas abajo:
Puerto Natales, Chile Abril 12-14, 2007
Patagonia Big Rock Festival
10 •Located across from Plaza de Armas•
Experience Chile... Specializing in...
traditional Chilean lamb asados, grilled meat, seafood and shellfish.
Carlos Bories 430 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 410999
Leaving No Trace in Patagonia Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu. 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit.
campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes & streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary. In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent. In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.
feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater. 4. Leave What you Find Preserve the past, observe but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches. 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.
Durable surfaces include established trails and
To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200
Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.
www.aventurakallpamayu.cl www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance. Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times i.e. mating, nesting, raising young, or winter. 7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors
3. Dispose of Waste Properly
Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint.
6. Respect Wildlife
Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises. Source http://www.nols.edu/lnt/principles.shtm
11
Adventure racer sets Torres del Paine speed record by John Pomietlasz Aside from the constant unruly conditions, Tubbs encountered his first obstacle ascending the Gardner pass. The snow blowing across the mountain made visibility almost nonexistent, forcing him to improvise directions where trail markers were snow-covered. Passing only four people on the trail, he endured a 20-minute section of thigh-deep snow, wearing only running shorts while running up to the top of the John Gardner Pass. ¨Seeing the glacier field appear in front of me, that was incredible, ¨he says. He maintained a positive mentality thinking, ¨maybe I would get better weather once I got off the pass.¨ Unfortunately that wasn’t so, and the real test began descending the backside. The trail dips west along Glacier Grey, descending steeply through a dense beech forest. Due to the amount of falling snow and rain, the once dirt trail was transformed into a virtual mudslide. Tubbs fell an innumerable amount of times, sliding between tree limbs and trunks on his backpack and bottom. He escaped luckily without serious injury, but detected a sprained left wrist the following day while recuperating.
Intense snow flurries blew over the John Gardner Pass, obscuring the rock and boulder laden trail in a blanket of white. Golf ball size ice chunks accumulated around the shoelaces, and bare legs exposed to the elements numbed to the bitter cold. After trudging streams and waste deep snow banks he thought, ¨I wonder how long it takes before frost bit sets in.¨ The circuit trail of Torres del Paine National Park is a lengthy 125 kilometer trek around some of Patagonia’s most famous granite spires and peaks. It’s a trail of non-technical terrain and easy orientation, but physically challenging to the unseasoned packer. What generally takes the average hiker up to nine days to accomplish was just circumvented in 18.5 hours. What’s even more impressive - it was one of the worst days of weather this summer.
The trail traverses through more forests and rock sides; the most technical portion of circuit. The few ladders bridging small streams weren’t a problem. Tubbs says ¨they were just something different.¨ From campgrounds Paso to Pehoe, the run was a more gentle three hours consisting mostly of downhill terrain. ¨It made me feel really good knowing I’d done that run numerous times¨ he says. Tubbs first came up with the idea of running the circuit last season while visiting Torres del Paine to hike the circuit. Befriending the staff of the local guide service Erratic Rock, he ended up staying in Puerto Natales throughout the summer, but ran out of time before flying home to San Francisco. ¨I spent too much time on ice
Andy Tubbs isn’t your everyday outdoor enthusiast. He’s a person unbeknownst to limits, and he isn’t afraid of challenge – he’s an adventure racer. For seven years, Tubbs has competed with the world’s most unyielding athletes in international races of mountain biking, trail running and kayaking, often enduring the harshest elements in spans longer than 24 hours. So when he decided to run the circuit in less than a day, a feat considered to be impossible to most, it was right up his alley. ¨For me, to go under 24 hours isn’t really that big of a deal¨ he says. I’m used to racing for up to a week at a time, the body goes long after the mind has shut down.¨
BARROS ARANA 299 FONO: 413622 April/May 2007
“...if I had stopped, I probably wouldn’t have been able to go on...” Tubbs ran the last segment of the trail, up to Torres Mirodor, fatigued but strong. The seemingly relentless snow and rain had finally dissipated, but it was by then pitch dark. He’d trained this portion twice before, therefore, remembered it very well. ¨I knew exactly how long that section would take¨ he says. Running by headlamp, he reached the starting point of Refugio Las Torres at 1am in good condition. Mentally however, he wasn´t entirely clear due to the sleep deprivation and had trouble finding his tent. When he did finally locate it across the river, friends were camped out and awaiting his arrival with a big fire roaring and a hot kettle filled with food. ¨When I knew I finally finished, that was awesome¨ says Tubbs. He immediately took a 15 minute shower to thaw himself out. The next day was filled with basic recuperation techniques: massages, stretching, food and sleep. His knees and feet were incredibly sore. ¨I had pain in every joint¨ he says. ¨I wasn’t able to walk without pain.¨ He also felt as though he were in a fog. The massive physical exertion and lack of sleep had left him completely drained, but happy with the outcome. ¨I’m incredibly satisfied with running the circuit in less than a day and setting a time for other to try and beat¨ says Tubbs. It’s evident he wanted to set a benchmark for others, but in the end, he did it for himself. ¨It was a personal challenge.¨ he says. ¨If I had stopped, I probably wouldn’t have been able to go on.¨
Tubbs left Refugio Las Torres at 6:30am on February 28, heading east (counter clockwise) along the circuit. He’d intended to leave camp an hour earlier, but foul weather prevented his planned departure. Leaving the warmth of his tent, by way of headlamp, he began the run in the frigid, yet clearer morning air. Only 15 minutes later, snow began to fall again, continuing for the next 12 hours.
PUERTO NATALES
hikes¨ he says. The 38-year-old passed his time back home training daily and working with clients as a sports massage therapist and personal trainer, which he´s done for 14 years. Vowing to return this season, he came back in December to train and run, while again working for Erratic Rock. Tubbs reached Camp Italiano at 6:30pm, and started his ascent to the mirador, which was cluttered with difficult, boulder-ridden terrain. With more snow and loose rock, his pace grew more sluggish. During this time, he wished he had someone to run with. In 24 hour and multi-day adventure races, he´s accompanied by teammates and competitors, helping with motivation and distracting the fatigued mind. ¨Having other people on the trail, it´s a huge factor¨ says Tubbs. ¨This was harder.¨ During the run, he carried all his own food and hydration. Friends had agreed to meet him at prearranged checkpoints, but due to the delayed start and horrid conditions, they were unable to locate, hence support him during the run. When he returned to Italiano however, he knew he had the easiest remaining sections of the trail left. Tubbs continued along the relatively flat areas of the trail to Refugio Cuernos, where he’d set a goal of arriving there before dark. Had he achieved it, he planned on awarding himself with the purchase of soda-pop. He did indeed reach the camp before dark, but bypassed purchasing the soda in order to utilize the little remaining daylight.
PUNTA ARENAS
ERRAZURIZ 891 FONO: 240214
torres del paine tested in patagonia
New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310
www.aquanativapatagonia.com
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
Patagonia.
79% Water & Ice. You´ll need a kayak.
ours t y l We e k r r a n o ! e Rio S
Eberhar d 161 Pto. Natales, Chile +56-61 415749
Camping Equipment • Sport Fishing • Fly Fishing • Hunting Gear • Fleece Jackets • Parkas • Thermals • Tents • Sleeping Bags • Backpacks • Boots & Tennis shoes • Climbing Equipment • and more...
12 Seminario “Interpretación Ambiental; Una Herramienta para el Turismo Sustentable”
27 y 28 de abril 2007 Sede UMAG, Puerto Natales, Chile Informaciones en oficina de la Cámara de Turismo •fono 415721 ORGANIZAN: RED PRO TURISMO MAGALLANES CÁMARA TURISMO ÚLTIMA ESPERANZA UNIVERSIDAD DE MAGALLANES
Ghosts and GoreTex
RestoBar Eberhard 169 Puerto Natales, Chile
The hill were I was standing was their cemetery.
for the first time, I immediately became completely
Whenever I see those sophisticated brands, those
addicted. The spirit of the history, the legends and
I think about it, this is probably not the best line to
flashy “Patagonia” travel packages offered on the
the stories, and the emotions and strength they
start a column about Patagonia.
web or in credit card advertisements, whenever I
reflect, deepened my links to this country and its
Well, let me rephrase it. The abusive use of the
see the hordes of backpackers following the same
people – in fact, the people and landscape became
word PATAGONIA is already tiring me (much
routes, I don’t see the faces of the Aonikenk nomad
inseparable.
better). The way I see it, Patagonia really means
family buried on that rocky hill, I don’t see Lilo,
wild and pure humans living at the edge of their
I don’t hear Don Manuel’s stories. Next to those
emotions, it means 100% American blood, it means
shiny and colourful letters and pictures there is no
outlaws, castaways, explorers, social explosions,
space for D’Agostini, the fabulous Italian climber
wild horses, lions (American mountain lion), it
and missionary, who reached those breathtaking
means “baqueanos” (the ultimate South American
mountain peaks long before it was fashionable,
cowboy), it means territory for the free spirits.
then, when I don’t see any of that, the use of the
It doesn’t mean fashionable and expensive outfit
word Patagonia bores me.
brands, it doesn’t mean tourist packages, it doesn’t
even mean environmental projects to relieve some
the pleasure of mankind’s creative touch, and – at
New York banker’s guilt. It doesn’t mean anything
the same time – suffered from its evil mindedness.
like that and it certainly doesn’t mean thousands
of backpackers following the track imposed by the
corners that are obviously beautiful and others that
latest edition of what ever boring – called “cool”
are openly frightening. There is not much space for
– tourist guide book they brought along.
clichés and the warmth of its people is not expressed
How do I know that? Because, I met Lilo before he
in sweet words or charming smiles, no, here, they
died. Once, he and Juan Sanches received me in their
welcome you in silence, they will look at you and
hut and gave me shelter during my first Patagonian
offer a “mate” tea. They are not going to garnish
winter solo horseback ride. I also know this because
it with words, those will come later (if they come)
Don Manuel opened his old and fainting heart and
and you will always be able to say something if you
beautiful soul, telling me about his knowledge of
wish, they have time to listen to whatever you have
the life in Patagonia – the real Patagonia. He told
to say.
Patagonia is not virgin, it already enjoyed
Patagonia is not naïve either. There are
me about his memories of the last Aonikenk groups,
Wanted:
Your comments, thoughts & ideas.... editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
of their “tolderías” (camps) at the Sierra Baguales
Yes, Patagonia is remote, no doubt about that. That
and the valley of Las Chinas, and also I know this
is probably the only genuine aspect that has been
because once I climbed to the top of a desolated
properly recognized in the modern PATAGONIA
rocky mountain and, wiping the sweat out of my
fashion, and some stories are still happening, as they
face, I heard the screams of the dead Aonikenks.
have for centuries. When I arrived in this territory
M.Balmaceda 722 • 412889 hotelalcazar@gmail.com
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience. While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time. Sticking to the trails is important. Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or puddle only widens the trail, or creates a second, or sometimes third trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Torres del Paine or on the Dientes Circuit (Patagonia.) Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.
O
N A US
ALIS
...with all private bathrooms
Trail Etiquette
TR
HOTEL ALCAZAR
Trail Tips...
PATAG
F ri e n
nk s
e r o o T
Patagonia, it might sound funny, but the
word PATAGONIA is already tiring me... now that
Hand Crafts
d
s & Dri
by Max Salas
LAPISLAZULI JEWELERY
HAND CRAFTS
DECORATIONS
Carlos Bories 278 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 8 4649562 pedroblu@hotmail.com
13
Black Sheep Travel Spotlight: The Falkland Islands by Miguel Barrientos
Looking for a new adventure? Bored with skyscrapers or traffic jams? Want to get in touch with nature? Here’s a holiday tip for you: Volunteer Point The Falkland Islands, with a total land area of 4,700 square miles (12,173 sq km) and located 400 miles (640 kilometres) east of the South American mainland, is one of the fourteen UK Overseas Territories. It’s made up of two large islands (East Falkland and West Falkland) and several hundred smaller ones. According to the 2001 census, The Islands have a population of 2,913, of whom 1,989 live in Stanley, the capital. Most of the rest of the population lives on sheep farms. Falkland Islanders make up 45% of the total population, which also includes UK citizens, Chileans, Australians, New Zealanders and Russians, amongst others. The official language is English and the currency is the Falkland pound (1FKP=1GBP). The fisheries sector, having two types of squid (Illex argentinus and Loligo gahi) as its main products, is the main contributor to the Islands economy.
What to do.
If you are looking for a wildlife experience, search no more. The Falklands have 17 different mammals, 5 species of penguins (including King and Macaroni penguins) and over 70 species of birds breed on the Islands. In the Falklands you will have the opportunity of enjoying these animals in their natural habitats, something so unique that it will almost make you feel like an intruder. Places like Volunteer Point to see King penguins, Sea Lion Islands for sea lions, elephant seals and penguins (The Falklands have the world’s largest populations of rockhopper and gentoo penguins), Bleaker Island for penguins and sea lions, and Saunders Islands for penguins and black-browed albatross (The Falklands have the world’s largest black-browed albatross population) are some of the main attractions. Another options is sea trout fishing. The best times are in September and October, and in March and April. Also, if golfing is your thing, there are a few golf courses on the Islands. Now, if you’re travelling to a Spanish speaking country after your visit to the Falklands, you can brush up on your knowledge of the language in Stanley. Shopping as in “shop till you drop” is not the reason why people come to the Islands. Obviously, you will always find something to buy, including local woollen goods, leather items, paintings, stamps and a good variety of souvenirs. However,
you will not find a branch of a worldwide known restaurant or shop. This is one of the features that makes the Falklands different. And just to give you a better idea, you will not find a supermarket open after 9:00 p.m., and you won’t be able to get cash with your credit card because there are no ATMs on the Islands. By the way, if you don’t have Falkland pounds on you, British pounds are equally accepted, and most shops will take US dollars, Euros and major credit cards as well. Now, although there are not many restaurants to go to, The Falklands offer you a good variety of dishes. Among the good local seafood, you can find mussels, oysters, snow crab, squid and Patagonian toothfish. Also lamb, beef and mutton dishes, plus local veggies and a good variety of international wines are an important part of the menu. And the best way to finish off the night is to visit one of the British style local pubs, which are mostly located around the town centre, or just £2 away in a taxi.
When to go.
The best weather can usually be found between November and March. The average temperature of the warmest months is 9.3º (48.7ºF) and for the coldest month is 2º (35.6ºF). This year, in January, the highest was 21º (69.8ºF) and the lowest was 1º (33.8ºF), while in February the hightest was 20º (68ºF) and the lowest was 4º (39.2ºF).
April/May 2007
Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs
ÑANDÚ
Obviously, accommodation is more expensive during these months. Prices range from about £130 for a single room in a hotel to about £15 for a room in a B&B.
Hand Crafts
How to go.
There is a LAN Chile flight that leaves every Saturday from Santiago, Chile, and stops over in Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas. Once a month, it also stops off at Rio Gallegos, in Argentina. If you are in the UK, you can catch a flight at RAF Brize Norton, which is located near Burford, Oxfordshire, England. Visitors from Britain, North America, Mercosur, Chile, and most Commonwealth and European Community countries do not need visas. Another important point is that all tourists are required to demonstrate on arrival that they have return tickets or secure accommodation and sufficient funds to cover their expenses during their intended stay. In case you want more info, you can go to www. falklandislands.com, www.falklands.info or www. tourism.org.fk.
Going to El Chaltén?…. by Brian Wiley El Chaltén, formed in 1985 near Cerro Fitz Roy, is nestled in a glacial valley that boasts spectacular views of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. The free and beautiful Campamento Madsen on the north side of town allows visitors a scenic flat spot to camp and nearby access to trailheads that lead into the heart of the park. Many of the glaciers and pointed peaks can be viewed during day hikes on well-marked and maintained trails. You must experience the scenery yourself to fully appreciate its splendor. When you work up a thirst, head down Avenue San Martin (the main street) to “La CervecerÍa Brewpub & Resto” for frothy micro brew beer (pilsener or bock) brewed on site. Their menu offers pizzas, pastas and salads. For the hungry hiker go for “Locro” a
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413360 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
Re
ers
ad #1 e oic Ch
Feeling Dirt y...? The Milodon Laundry Service
Dropped before noon for same day return Open 10am-12pm & 2:30pm-8:00pm Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642
Hotel Posada Tres Pasos Your country hotel...
hefty homemade stew of vegetables, beans and meat-served with bread and tasty salsa picante. La Cerveceria is open from 1p.m. to 1a.m. daily.
Tel:(56) (2) 1969630
reservas@hotel3pasos.cl Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile
14 The municipality and the Puerto Williams Tourism Association welcome you to Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino, Chile
Beagle Channel
Beyond the end of the world...
Puerto Williams, Chile
Restaurantes/Restaurants Albatros Restaurante Café Agelus Club naval de yates Micalvi Cabo de Hornos Camblor Dientes de Navarino Patagonia
621317 621080 621042 621067 621033-621384 621074 621267-621075
Piloto Pardo 228 Centro comercial norte 151 Seno Lauta Costanera s/n Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Centro comercial Sur 14 Yelcho 230
Mail address turismoakainij@chileaustral.com purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com hostalcoiron@tie.cl rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostallajuwa@yahoo.es pedroortiz@chilesat.net pattypusaki@yahoo.es hostalyagan@hotmail.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com gerencia@lakutaia.cl ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
caminito@123mail.cl fgascogner@yahoo.es purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com pedroortiz@chilesat.net
Agencias de turismo/Tourist agencies Turismo Akainij 621327-621173 Turismo aventura Shila 621366 Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Turismo SIM 621150- 621225 Agencia Native tours 621183 Agencia Victory Cruises 621010-621092 Desierto Blanco 621452
Centro comercial Sur 156 O´Higgins 322 Uspashun 64 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Centro Comercial Sur 154b Teniente Muñoz 118 Costanera 330
turismoakainij@chileaustral.com turismoshila@gmail.com rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostalcoiron@tie.cl maurice.vandemaele@gmail.com www.victory.cruises.com
Café Internet/Cyber Café Cape Horn Net cyber café Turismo Akainij
Teniente Muñoz 118 Centro comercial Sur 156
captainben@victory-cruises.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com
Tiendas de Souvenier/Giftshops 55°Sur 621265 Isla hornos souvenier 621734 Kipa Akar Artesanias
Centro comercial norte 147 Centro comercial sur 140b Villa Ukika
fgascogner@yahoo.es
Servicio de guias/guide services Fuegia&CO 621251 Alapainch, guia de trekking 621048
Yelcho 232 Yelcho 218
fuegia@usa.net alapainch@yahoo.com
Transporte/Transports Servicio de taxi Servicios maritimos y turisticos Aerovias DAP Ushuaia boating Lancha peregrino austral Lancha Dep. Ultramar agencia maritima
621387 621015 621114-621051 54 2901 436193 621015 621294-621075 621049
Mario Leal 145 Costanera 436 Centro comercial sur 151 Gob.Godoy 190-Ususahia Costanera 436 Yelcho 230 Arturo Prat 35
jgodoy@terra.cl ventas@aeroviasdap.cl ushuaiaboagting@argentina.com peregrinoaustral@terra.cl pedroortiz@chilesat.net isiagredo@ultramar.cl
Other services Cabalgatas el padrino Museo Martin Gusinde Sabores del Beagle Yiakua, lavanderia
621136 621043 621136 621358
Costanera 262 Com.Aragay 1 esq.Gusinde costanera s/n Piloto Pardo342z
621010-621092 621327-621173
ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar pgrendi@yahoo.com ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
Listado elaborado por ENVIU
For information contact: Av. B. O’Higgins 189 - Phone 621011 - 621013 municipalidad@municipalidadcabodehornos.cl www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Via Uno
Ave. Costane
ra
Yelc h
$ Pres
o Piloto
. Iba
ñez
ia
wa
Le
Tte. Mu
ñoz
Subtenie
Via Tres
How do I get to Puerto Williams? To get to Isla Navarino/Puerto Williams you have three main choices: The first is the slightly uncomfortable but adventurous ferry that takes 36 hours from Punta Arenas. The second is the twin otter that flies across the Darwin ranges and takes one hour and 15 minutes. The third is to go via Ushuaia and cross the Beagle Channel by zodiac. The choice is yours. Where is the downtown of Pto Williams? It is strange to think that such a small place seems to have two centers. One is the centro commercial where you will find the post and DAP office. The other is the supermarkets, which are found facing each other along the road Piloto Pardo. Where can I sleep? There are actually quite few places to stay; some cheaper than others. There is a luxury hotel which is pretty expensive, and then there is a range of hostels and residenciales around town. Are there any internet cafés on Isla Navarino? Yes! But the connection is not so good. The two cyber cafés are at the Akainij travel agency in the centro comercial, and the other is up the hill and is called Cape Horn Net Cyber Café. Can I rent equipment on Isla Navarino? Turismo Shila in the centro comercial provides a range of camping equipment. Another possibility is to take a guide who provides the equipment. Where can I find camping gas? Turismo Shila as well as some hostels sell camping gas. What can I find to do in downtown Pto. Williams? Well….you´ll just have to go and find out. How old is this town? The town was established in 1953 as a naval base. Why is the town there? Geopolitics. Can I drink the water on Isla Navarino? Yes you can, but be careful while drinking the water around beaver dams. Are there any animals I need to worry about on Navarino? Not really, but sometimes the dogs are an annoyance. Do I have to pay anything to trek on the Dientes? Nope, it’s free! Where do I start my trek? At Pilot Pardo Street - next to the cops. You have to leave info about your itinerary and return date. From there, you can head to either one of the two trailheads. How do I get to Ushuaia from here? Ushuaia is NORTH (as in not south) from Williams. There is a zodiac which has regular crossings from Isla Navarino to Ushuaia. It’s fairly pricey, but still a good option if you don’t want to backtrack. Information for this can be found at Café Angelus at the centro comercial.
nte Capde
ville
Pardo gans o O’Hig Bernard
Carlos Condell
Direccion/Address Austral 22 Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Uspashun 64 Villa Ukika Yelcho 230 Piloto Pardo 222 Piloto Pardo 260 Austral 22 Seno Lauta s/n Costanera 276
Co m
Fono/Phone 621173 621067 621033-621384 621227-621227 621140-621359 621267 621075 621116-621224 621118-621334 621173-621173 621733-621298 621136
an da nt e
Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Tourist Directory Hostales/Hostels Akainij Cabo de Hornos Camblor Coirón Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos Lajuwa Patagonia Pusaki Yagan Hospedaje Akainij Hotel Lakutaia Refugio El Padrino
lvi
ca
Mi
Golata Ancud
on Isla Navarino
Ar ag ay
Miramar
Arturo Prat
Puerto Williams
tro
a Via Cu
Where can I find a Dientes map? Ooooohh... That’s a tough one. There are trekking guides available at the tourism agencies. As there are only a few printed, they usually ask you to photocopy them. Why are half of the buildings white in Pto. Williams? The white buildings are the Armada (Navy) buildings, which house their offices and families. Is there a money machine in Williams? Yep, and it’s 24 hours as well, located at the Banco de Chile. Can I rent a car in Pto. Williams? No. What time do the stores open? Usually between 10:00 and 13:00, and then from 16:00/17:00 to 20:00. The supermarkets are open from 9:00 in the morning to midnight. How many people visit Williams in a season? Well, in a year there are about 8,000 visitors to the island. Of this, about 6000 are cruiseship passengers, and 2000 are overnight tourists that usually go trekking. How big is Isla Navarino? 40 by 100 kilometers. Why does everyone say that Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world? This is a false rumor that has been circulating for years to draw people to Ushuaia. Some say there are differences between a city and a town, but whichever - there is no place to live further south than Puerto Willliams. How far is Cape Horn? It’s about 165 kilometers south of Puerto Williams. Can I get to Cape Horn or Antarctica from Puerto Williams? Yes you can, but it will cost ya. Several yachts leave Puerto Williams to these destinations during the summer season. Are there any other towns on Isla Navarino? Yes, but they are even smaller. Puerto Toro is truly the southernmost town in the world and is only reached by boat. Puerto Navarino is basically two families big and then there are some farms around. What is the population of Puerto Williams?
2,262.
New Williams Info For additional information, please check out the new websites and learn more about the various tourism products that Puerto Williams has to offer: www.turismoshila.com - guiding & tours www.refugioelpadrino.com - accomodation www.hostalpusaki.com - accomodation www.albatrospub.com - food
15
The Isla Navarino Dientes Circuit by J Williams
Billed as the southernmost trekking
trail markers are often difficult to distinguish from
erratic rock 2
opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes
their surroundings without the red signage painted
circuit on the Isla Navarino is miles beyond an
on to mark the route.
ordinary trekking experience.
Weather is also a strong factor, particulary the
For 53 km the route winds through an other
strength of the winds that sweep up from the white
worldly landscape of mountains broken from the
continent and make the passes, especially the final
floor of the ocean, where the andes crumble into
pass to surmoun, Paso Virginia, very dangerous.
the antarctic plate, where tenuous passes from one
Blasts of wind strong enough to knock a heavily
valley to the next defy truly staggering winds and
loaded trekker from their feet are not uncommon
where spartan vegetation clings to a precarious
and come without warning. The dientes circuit
existence between the punishing climate and the
is broken into five stages, each stage requiring
persistent manipulations of the introduced beaver.
around five hours to complete.
For the serious trekker, the five day Dientes circuit
With the long daylight hours of the southern
��������� Located on the main Plaza - Pto. Natales, Chile
is a chance to experience a unique terrain at what
hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be
is literally the last scrap of land before the legend-
tempted to combine two stages into one day. While
���������� ����� ����
ary Cape Horn and Antarctic sea. And while the route offers many worthy experiences, like
Getting to Isla Navarino is part of the adventure itself...
awesome views that
benjamin zamora 732 Pto Natales ph +56 61 414317
Patagonia
w w w. e r r a t i c r o c k . c o m
���������
������ ���� ���� �� ������ �������
������� ������� ������ ����
it is possible to do the
������ ���� ���� �� ������ �������
������� �������� ������ �����������
Speciality foods available ���������� ����� ����
��������� �������� ����� ������� -
circuit in four days, it
������������������������
two passes to surmount
������� ������� ������ ����
��������������������
Food ser ved all day from 11am-11pm.
or a very long final day,
������������������������������������
������� ���� �������������� ��� ��� ������ �����������
descending from the nearly 900 meter Paso Virginia back to sea level
impressive for what it lacks, like crowded trails,
over a distance of 23 kms. The route markers end
clearly defined paths and over crowded refugios. In
more than 300 meters above sea level, look-
fact, there are no refugios on the route. there is no
ing down on Bahia Virginia, and from there the
entrance fee to pay, trekkers are only required to
trekker must negotiate through the cow pastures
check in with the carabineros in Puerto Williams.
and calafate bushes to the coastal road and final 8
Then it is just 3 kms of road from the tiny village
km´s of pavement back to Puerto Williams. Pass-
of Puerto Williams and a good possibility you will
ing trucks will often stop for trekkers on the final
see no one else in the course of the circuit.
stretch, otherwise it is about a two hour walk back
The dientes circuit is relatively new, developed in
to Puerto Williams. Getting to Isla Navarino is
the early 90´s by lonely planet trekking guide au-
part of the adventure itself. The patagonian airline
thor Clem Lindemayer. For his efforts a few of the
company DAP flies a 20 odd seat twin otter from
more prominent peaks along the circuit have been
Punta Areanas to Puerto Williams daily in summer.
named after him. Cierro Clem in particular makes
The flight over Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of
an impressive profile and serves as an important
Magellan is incredibly scenic and oddly enough,
landmark.
the least expensive option. There are now however other options. Though more expensive than fly-
organics, wheat free, dairy free, selection of coffees & teas, and more...
����� ��������� �� soups, ����� cakes ������� homemade & ������ desserts,
would involve a day with
stretch as far as the Cape Horn straits, it is also
No doubt because of the difficulty of the route
A hostel alternative for couples
��������� �������� ������� Tu����� publicidad
����� ��������� �� ����� estar ������� ������ puede aquí!!
������������������������ ��������������������
Llámanos al 415749 o escríbenos a
������������������������������������ sales@patagoniablacksheep.com
The one who started it all...
���� ������ ��� ���
D ow n Tow n H o s t e l Address: Armando Sanhueza 555 Phone: (56-61) 222219 - 221009 Cell Ph: 09 91229555 - 09 84394174 Punta Arenas, Chile info@downtownhostel.com www.downtownhostel.cl
N e a r S h o p p i n g & S e r v i ce s
Comfortable Rooms Fully equiped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet and Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Patagonian Drinks Coffee shop
José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@hotmail.com Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile
Cheese, wines & bread
and the distance of Isla Navarino from the
ing it is possible to travel by boat from Ushuaia
beaten path, the dientes circuit receives a
across the Beagle channel to Puerto Navarino and
fraction of the annual visitors of Chile´s better
then travel the 50 odd km´s of coastal road east to
known treks. The route was marked with the Chil-
Puerto Williams. For the truly intrepid traveller,
ean numbered trail marker system in early 2001,
the Punta Arenas based Transbordadora Austral
but it is still far from a well marked path. The
Broom operates a once a week passenger ferry
dientes trekker needs to be self reliant and good at
to Puerto Williams, a 30 hour trip through the
route finding. The 38 trail points are spread over a
Straits of Magellan and along the Beagle Channel.
Retail, coffee shop,
53 km route, with four significant passes to cross
Though spartan in accomodations and service, the
Chilean wines, homemade brown bread
and a myriad maze of beaver ponds and dams to
passing scenery of hanging glaciers and mountains
and locally produced gourmet cheese.
negotiate in the valleys between. It is also strongly
that float on water truly convey an end of the world
advised to follow the route from Puerto Williams,
sensation.
EMPORIO de la Pampa
Eberhard 226
Puerto Natales Patagonia Chile
as the markers are only painted on one side. Since the markers are cairns, or rock piles, individual
VOLLKORNBROT•SCHAFSKASE•ZIEGENKASE•KASE AUS DER REGION-PATAGONIA
C ONV ENT IL L O HOSTAL - ALBERGUE
EL
Punta Arenas, Chile Pje Korner 1034 Phone +56-61 242311 info@hostalelconventillo.com www.hostalelconventillo.com
April/May 2007
16
Chile top to bottom by Pilar Irribarra The “Sendero de Chile” is a huge project which aims to link Chilean people and foreigners with the natural, cultural, ethnic, and scenic variety of the country. By the year 2010 it will be the longest trail in the world, with an extension over 8.500 kilometers. This path will link the plateau and the most barren desert of the world; central valleys and its cities, parks, woods, lakes and volcanoes in southern Chile; austral glaciers and the vast expanse of the Patagonia pampas, and finally, the main island ecosystems, with paths in Isla de Pascua, in Archipielago de Juan Fernández and Isla Grande de Chiloé. Currently, Sendero de Chile has 35 treks that form this amazing route with more than 1,200 kilome-
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
ters along the country. Each journey is linked to unique geographical conditions, but specially linked to very particular and unique natural and tourist attractions. At the Magallanes region, 3 trails exists: “Isla Navarino in Cabo de Hornos”, “Reserva Nacional de Magallanes” and “Ruta Patrimonial Milodon” (a few kms from Puerto Natales).
begins at the foot of the Cerro Tenerife hill. It is an easy walk and while you are walking, you can enjoy the magnificent landscape of the the Paine Grande Massif and three nearby lakes: Porteño, Maravilla and Toro; besides it is also possible to see the Tyndall and Grey Glaciers and part of the Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur. Finally, the journey ends at the Serrano river, next to the Torres del Paine National Park.
Ruta Patrimonial Milodón This trail begins 20 kms to the north of the Milodon cave, in the “Nuevo camino al Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine” or “Lago Porteño” road. The trail is 60 cms wide and 42 kms in length. and
Walking the whole path takes about 3 or 4 days, so you can camp at Rio Ventisquero, El Salto and Rio Serrano. The environmental characteristics in this path are a feature of the patagonia climate, with a wide varie-
ty of native vegetation like lengas, coigues, ñirres, maitenes, ciruelillos, and calafates. You can also see different kind of birds and other animals like condor, eagles, parrots, foxes, bobcats, etc. The trail “Ruta Patrimonial Milodón” is in an improvement phase at present so its infrastructure is still basic. The trail is accessible from its starting point to the end in rio Serrano, from where you can visit the Torres del Paine National Park or make a descent by zodiac through the Rio Serrano, visit Balmaceda and Serrano glacier and continue by boat to Puerto Natales.