Black Sheep Patagonia

Season 2009 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Dave Turner

Black Sheep • Volume 4 • Issue 7

Collector’s Edition

W

®

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Magazine

Cabo

Adrenaline

F roward Trek to the

in Bariloche

Calafate

bottom of the world

Reggae

Trail Tips

Pearls for the Park

Torres

del

Paine Q&As

What makes Patagonia

so extreme ?

Sheep Black

Sheep Black

Recycle this paper! Pass it on.

Motorcycles in Patagonia It’s all about the bike.

Free Climbing Wall in Natales

Cabo Froward Sheep Cheese or Bust

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

e are a grass roots travel newspaper, independently and locally owned, covering all things coinciding with Patagonia’s

high

hard blisters, alternative

dirty.

Sheep Black ®

Patagonia Choose your own adventure.

Your survivor’s guide to the end of the world from travelers who never left.

Recycle this paper! Pass it on.

FREE

P a t a g o n i a • P u n t a A r e n a s • P u e r t o N a t a l e s • To r r e s d e l P a i n e • C a l a f a t e • C h a l t é n

FREE

April 2008

Sheep Black

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Information Magazine

Spotlight Issue!

Río Serrano Patagonia’s biggest little secret

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

Sheep

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Information Magazine

®

Torres del Paine

Questions & Answers’s 3rd Annual

Big Rock Festival Puerto Natales

Trekking

April 18-20, ‘08

(off the map).

To Tierra del Fuego from the equator, on foot.

Recycle this paper: Pass it on!

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

Patagonia. travelers. climbers. unguided open screwed up believe

We are Chile’s most widely read English-language paper. We publish eight issues per year, We are

We are trekkers. And we’ve put down roots in

and traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help them plan their adventures to the bottom

of the world. We are backpackers, and we believe in counting experience by crossings and in getting

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Newspaper

season, from September to April. We are expats and locals. We are

Patagonia. Living at the tip of South America is

February 2008

CAMPING

Volume 3 • Issue 8 • April 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Nelson Sanchez - happy birthday Owen!

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Newspaper

FREE

November 2008

FREE

Happy Birthday, Black Sheep!

P a t a g o n i a • P u n t a A r e n a s • P u e r t o N a t a l e s • To r r e s d e l P a i n e

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

Recycle this paper. Pass it on!

December 2007

FREE

Volume 3 • Issue 6 • February 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • cover image by Baguales Group

Volume 3 • Issue 5 • January 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • cover image by Rustyn Mesdag

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Magazine

Volume 4 • Issue 5 • January 2009 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Rustyn Mesdag

Sheep Black

Black

P a t a g o n i a • P u n t a A r e n a s • P u e r t o N a t a l e s • To r r e s d e l P a i n e

S T I L L

January 2009

Volume 4 • Issue 3 • November 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Serdar Yaggi

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

FREE

January 2008

Volume 3 • Issue 4 • December 2007 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • cover image by Nick Yates

P a t a g o n i a • P u n t a A re n a s • P u e r t o N a t a l e s • To r re s d e l P a i n e

not by years. We believe in

adventure. We sleep in tents, and we camp in bad weather. We believe in river

We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We hitchhike. We recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being a part of the solution, not the problem. We believe that music can change

the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in

power. We believe in nature remaining

& free for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No

Trace. We believe in healthy living and healthy food. We believe in volunteering. We believe YOU can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too

Robin Hood.

We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundries. We

to ignore anymore. We believe in

in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe it’s not too late. We believe

travel is about experience, culture, living like the locals and going home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe that you should be heard.

...and now we are online. Oh well. www.patagoniablacksheep.com

Letter from the Publisher Black Sheep has been around now for four years / five seasons. From humble beginnings in Puerto Natales, we built the paper from scratch on the only computer we had. That computer crashed and we had to do it all over for the second month. It was a hard start. Now the newspaper has traveled around the world. Not that we’ve managed to send Black Sheeps all over the world, but we have received mails and correspondence from every corner of the planet. It’s a telltale sign of where travelers have been taking the papers. That dumb little sheep logo that I drew on a napkin five years ago found purchase in Patagonia.

Every month we printed and distributed thousands of copies all over Chile and Argentina, and every month we would get calls for more papers. But they were gone.

Snatched up, stuffed in a backpack, scribbled on, used to stuff wet boots, wash windows, and wrap fish. The true uses of any good newspaper. There never seemed to be enough copies.

They were sought after, but in the end only a lucky few got their hands on one. I don’t think we changed anyone’s life or anything, but I am confident in saying that the Black Sheep served its purpose for the last four years.

This will be the last printed issue of Black Sheep.

We have decided to go tree-free and make the newspaper and its information accessible to everyone, with just a click.

Certainly building a tangible paper had a satisfaction to it.

Seeing the bundles of papers come off the press, ripping open the first packet to see the new paper and spot-check the last month’s work for the first time. It was a lot of fun. Papers often returned to our offices from one or two seasons ago. Old copies were still out there; people weren’t throwing them away, and the issues kept circulating.

So no more massive deadlines, no more ‘hot off the press,’ no more text or info mistakes to look at for a month before the next paper comes out. No more long nights. No more running, juggling and balancing a grass roots newspaper (based on no experience at all). It was the most satisfying project I have ever been a part of. I will miss all the craziness. I will miss seeing Black Sheeps sticking out of people’s backpacks while walking down the road.

Thanks needs to go out to Pilar, my business partner, who was always there to clean up the messes that my big mouth would get us into. She was there to support the idea from day one.

The last four years has been filled with literally hundreds of participants and volunteers. More people put hours into the newspaper than I could ever begin to list.

But looking back on the chaos of the last years, there are a few people who really ‘took one for the team’ when it came down to it. Number one on the list is my family: my wife, Ellen, and two boys, Noah & Finn. If there was anyone who made adjustments, above and beyond the call of duty, it was

my family. Adding a second business to my daily schedule-over four years--took a lot of quality time away from them.

If it wasn’t for the support I received from within my own home, I never would have been able to experience the last few seasons.

I would also like to thank everyone at erratic rock (my day job). And to all the staff and travelers who contributed, edited, wrote articles and generally inspired the basic need for Black Sheep. A history of erratic rock can be found in the old copies’ pages. After 2.5 seasons and hundreds of travelers’ eyes looking over the Black Sheep for us, it finally evolved into one full-time employee, Heather, our editor who took on the paper like a spartan. The Black Sheep never would have made it this far without her. I also want to thank, Bill and CJ, Sebastian, Marnix, Sarah, Dogg, Pato 1 & Pato 2, Carlos and Mauricio at LPA, Fede and Mery, Isabel, Tony, Jamie, Shanie and all the writers from the beginning and everyone that ever helped at all. The Black Sheep was stone soup at its finest.

I would obviously also like to thank all the businesses and advertisers who supported us from the start. They kept us going through the hard times. We were always doing it for the fans, not the critics.

I hope you enjoy this last newsprint edition of the Black Sheep. I hope you find what you need within its pages; whether it be just information or inspiration to go further somehow. We’ve had a good time putting it together...

Publisher/Designer: Rustyn Mesdag editor@patagoniablacksheep.com Director: Pilar Irribarra info@patagoniablacksheep.com Editor/Layout: Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com Punta Arenas, Chile: Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com Puerto Natales, Chile: Carolina “C.J.” Wilson cjwilson07@gmail.com Pucón & Pto. Varas, Chile: Anthony Riggs anthony@patagoniablacksheep.com Bariloche, Argentina: Jamie Schectman jamie@patagoniablacksheep.com Shanie Matthews shanie@shaniematthews.com Calafate, Argentina: Maria Fourcade negrafourcade@hotmail.com Federico Fourcade pod_smolik@hotmail.com Distribution: Patricio Alderete Luis Miranda Printed by: La Prensa Austral

Black Sheep

Patagonia Bus Schedules This schedule is a rough guide, as schedules are always changing slightly. During winter and at the beginning end end of high summer season, there are fewer buses.

There is no public transportation to Torres del Paine during winter. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions.

Note: During daylight savings time, there is a time difference between Chile and Argentina.

Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos

Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas

Buses Ghisoni Ph. 613420 L. Navarro 975

Mon. & Wed. thru Sat. 11.00

Buses Ghisoni Terminal Río Gallegos

Tues. & Thu. thru Sun. 12.00

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Tue., Fri., Sun. 11.30

Buses Pacheco Terminal Río Gallegos

Mon., Wed., Sat. 12.00

Punta Arenas - Ushuaia

Ushuaia - Punta Arenas

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Every day 09.00

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Tecni Austral Ph. 222078 L. Navarro 975

Tue., Thu., Sat. 07.30

Tecni Austral Roca 157

Mon., Wed., Fri. 07.00 Mon., Wed., Fri. 05.30

Puerto Natales - Ushuaia

Ushuaia - Puerto Natales

Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Every day except Sat. 07.30 (with a bus change near PA)

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas

Mon., Wed., Fri. 07.00 (with a bus change near PA)

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales

Buses Fernandez Ph. 411111 E. Ramírez 399

Daily 07.15 09.00 13.00

14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00

Buses Fernandez Ph. 221812 A. Sanhueza 745

Daily 08.00 09.00 13.00

14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00

Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500

Daily 07.30 10.00

13.30 19.30

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Daily 08.30 14.00

18.00 19.30

Bus Sur Ph. 411859 Baquedano 668

Daily 07.00 10.00

15.00 19.00

Bus Sur Ph. 614224 José Menéndez 552

Daily 09.00 15.00

17.00 19.00

Puerto Natales - El Calafate

El Calafate - Puerto Natales

Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456

Cootra Terminal de Ómnibus

Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236

Daily 08.30 M, W, F & Sun.: 07.00 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00 & 14.30

Zaajh Terminal de Ómnibus

Travel Times

Chile / Argentina Buses

Torres del Paine Buses

Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park) El Calafate

5 hrs

TdP Laguna Amarga

2 hrs 30

Punta Arenas

3 hrs

TdP Pudeto

3 hrs 15

Ushuaia

15 hrs

Torres del Paine Admin.

3 hrs 45

Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas (allow time for border crossings) Puerto Natales

3 hrs

Río Gallegos

6 hrs

Río Grande

8 hrs

Ushuaia

13 hrs

Puerto Natales – Torres

del

Paine

Torres

del

Paine – Puerto Natales

Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

Note: Please check with bus companies directly for updated information.

Daily 08.30 W, F & Sun.: 08.00 T, Th & Sat.: 17.00

El Calafate - El Chaltén

El Chaltén - El Calafate

Chaltén Travel Ph. 491833 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 08.00, 13.30, 18.30

Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande

Daily 07.30, 18.00

CalTur Ph. 491842 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 07.30, 13.00, 18.30

CalTur Avenida San Martín 520

Daily 08.00, 13.00, 18.30

Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus

M, W, F: 17.30

Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande

T, Th, Sat.: 07.30

El Calafate - Río Gallegos

Río Gallegos - El Calafate

Sportsman Ph. 492680 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 12.30

Sportsman Ph. 442595 Rancho Grande

Daily 20.00

Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 12.00, 14.30

Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande

Daily 12.00, 14.00

Interlagos Ph. 491273 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 04.00

Interlagos Ph. 442080 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 13.30

P l a nning me al s for t he trail

Eating properly while on the trail will not only keep your energy up, but also keep the team happy and postive. Planning the amounts and types of food is one of the biggest challenges of any backcountry trip.

If you’re traveling in a group, find out if anybody has any food restrictions (vegetarians, food allergies?). Discuss the menu before you head to the store. Make a day-by-day list of meals and snacks, complete with ingredients, for the exact amount of people in your group. Break down how many scoops of oatmeal you’ll need, the number of dry soup packets and and chocolate bars. Try not to plan for too much food. If you come home with enough grub to last you another day or two, it means you carried an extra 1-2 kilos in your pack. It’s best to shoot for 3,000 calories per day. Light eaters can get away with less (maybe 2,500) where a big eater might want to bump it up to around 3,500.

Dehydrated meals are all the rage, but they often taste like cardboard.

Sure, they might save some weight in your pack, but they take away some of the fun of preparing meals at camp. If you can cook it at home, there is a way to cook it on the trail. Prepping spices and cut veggies at home also makes packing and consumption easier.

After the big meal shop, remove all packaging and excess garbage that you won’t need on the trail. This step will make more space in your pack and leave you with less to carry out later. Repack all your food into doubled and labeled, resealable plastic bags. Consider it a fun challenge to eat well and pack light.

When packing your tools for cooking, try to not bring any piece of gear that only serves one purpose. Don’t bring a cutting board, for example.

Something like the lid to your cooking pot can double as a cutting surface.

Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential

questions & answers

What time do the buses leave in the morning?

Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m.

Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel?

Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.

Torres del Paine Refugio Information Prices are in U.S. dollars* Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 albergue@lastorres.com Vertice +56-61 412742 ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Breakfast

$10.00

Dorm bed

$40.00

Lunch

$14.00

Campsite

$8.00

Dinner

$18.00

Sleeping bag

$9.00

Full board

$80.00

2-person tent $14.00 $3.00

*Prices are approximate and may be slightly higher at some refugios.

Note: Check with the refugio companies directly for the latest info on prices, openings or closures.

Most refugios close during the winter, though Paine Grande at Pehoe is generally open all year long.

Are the times on the trail maps accurate?

The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the guide books seem to be a little off though.

What time is sunrise and sunset?

It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to February, you have up to 18 hours of daylight.

una a Lagm rg A a

tow n s

park entrance ld skjo rden

c amping

Nö Lago

Lago Pehoe

iento Sarm Lago

ro a d s tr ai l s er r i vver

Lago Verde

Sierra del Toro

Lago del Toro

Cerro Castillo

Pueblito Río Serrano

s iggin O’H k ardo ar Bern tional P Na Puerto Toro

If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first?

Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.

Últim

a Es

pera

nza

Fjor d

don Milo Cave

Puerto Natales

Is it better to trek the Park clockwise or counterclockwise?

You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.

skimp on the sun protection.

How much does the catamaran between Pehoe and Pudeto cost?

It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.

Can you drink the water in the Park?

You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.

Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?

Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek.

Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season.

Is food sold in the Park?

You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples.

Do I need sunscreen in the Park?

YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t

Torres d del Paine National tion ional Park

Argentina

When’s the latest I can start my trek?

In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park around 2.30 p.m., más o menos.

Do I get a map when I enter the Park?

Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.

Azul Lago

n so

How far is it to the Park from Natales?

From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.

How much money should I carry into the Park with me?

15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle (if you’re going to Refugio Las Torres from Lag. Amarga) equals roughly 45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios.

e Pain

ine el Pa rk a ed d Torr tional P Na

G l a c i er Gre y

ey Gr go La

How long does the trekking season last?

Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.

Which campsites are always free?

Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas. Note that Italiano is closed for restoration as of March 2009.

Lago

ick

...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack!

Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.

How much does camping cost in the Park?

Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-September), closed campsites are free.

standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center.

Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.

D go La

What’s the Park entrance fee?

15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD). Prices in winter are lower, approximately 8.000 CLP.

What’s the weather going to be like?

That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun!

Mattress

Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind.

Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the

C amp o del Hielo Sur - Patagonian S outhern Ice Field

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Do I need to tie up my food in the Park?

Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food.

Should I worry about bugs in the Park?

Bug repellent is definitely a good idea, especially on the back of the Circuit or when the weather warms up and the wind chills out.

I’m doing the circuit. Is there anything I should know before I go?

Do the circuit counterclockwise. It’s a good idea to start with the W. This will lighten your food load when you head over the pass. After Campamento Perros, make sure you go LEFT, following the PINK ribbons. Do not cross the river. (The rightside trail with orange paint is old, unkempt and knee-deep muddy for a couple of hours.)

How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens?

There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.

Black Sheep

The Patagonia Five

Big Photos, Little Camera Photos and text by Diego Araya

by bill penhollow

Lama guanicoe

You may be familiar with Africa’s famous “big five”: the buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, lion, and leopard. However, few are familiar with the Patagonian Five (probably because I just came up with it to get published).

Though they are not as big or dangerous as their counterparts in Africa, the P5 prove to be just as unique and even harder to observe (except for the guanacos!). A lot of luck is needed to observe all five in Torres del Paine National Park and around. Hopefully the descriptions that follow will help trekkers know what animals to be on the look out for and where they are most likely to find them.

GUANACO. A South American cameloid relative of the llama and the alpaca. Sleek and strong, with brownishwhite bodies and long necks. They are found in the steppe areas of Laguna Amarga, Laguna Azul, on the drive from the entrance to Lago Pehoe, and Laguna Verde. Guanacos feed on grasses, lichen, and shrubs. They breed once a year and give birth to their “chulengos” between November and February. In the winter months they congragate in herds of up to 400 animals grazing in the Lago Pehoe area of Torres del Paine.

HUEMUL / SOUTH ANDEAN DEER.

Hippocamelus bisulcus

The huemul, or Andean deer, is a small, compact deer, that measures on average just 1.5 meters in length. They can be found on the road between Administración and Hostería Grey, near Western Boundries, around Lago Grey, and along the Pingo trail. The huemul is on the brink of extinction.

Due to man’s forest fires and encroachment on its habitat, they are now strictly protected. They are very shy and difficult to observe. In 1834, the huemul was incorporated into the Chilean coat of arms.

PUMA. The largest of Patagonia’s predators, pumas are closely related to the North American mountain lion. Pumas thrive in a variety of habitats from Alaska to the bottom of Tierra del Fuego. It has the largest range of any of the big cats, and it can be found both inside and outside of the Park, from the steppe to dense forest. The puma’s only enemy is man. Though pumas are protected by law, they are still hunted by ranchers. Trekkers are lucky to see more than a track.

Felis concolor Pterocnemia pennata

ÑANDU / LESSER RHEA. Also known as rheas, the ñandu is a member of the ostrich family. They are found on the main entrance drive to the Park, and along the road toward Laguna Verde. There is no visual difference between male and female ñandu. The harem of females lay all of their eggs in one nest and the male sits on the eggs and watches over the 30 to 40 charitas (chicks). They are noted for their speed and zig-zag escape patterns. The ñandu is recognized as the Chilean symbol of the Magellan region.

CÓNDOR / ANDEAN CONDOR.

Vultur gryphus

The condor is the largest member of the Vultrine family. It nests on high cliff faces and soars over the entire Park. The black “fingers” at the tips of the 2.5-meter wings, plus its bright white collar, are the trademarks of this symbol of Chile.

They produce only one chick every other year.

The condor appears with the huemul on Chile’s national emblem.

Black-necked swans, Última Esperanza Sound.

M

any of you likely experience a deep passion for nature and having a close encounter with a wild animal give us a great and inexplicable pleasure. Probably Torres del Paine National Park will offer you several opportunities to observe, on a very close range, the local wildlife. However if we don’t have a powerful telephoto lens, we cannot always honor the moment.

Here are a few suggestions to help you take portraits of wildlife in a way that you never imagined possible with a small snapshot camera.

1. Light Direction: Especially on sunny days, the direction of the light is very important for highlighting a subject from its background. For wildlife this is particularly important so that the face is properly lit. In midday, the sunlight is strongest and directly above us, which gives off a flat light with funny shadows. Timing is everything. Take advantage of the ‘side light’ times of day, in the morning or evening. Not only is it a better time to view wildlife, but you can also capture a more pleasant and warm light with your lens.

2. Background: Normally we are so busy with our subjects that we forget about the background. Especially if you don’t have a big telephoto lens, the background is extremely relevant. Locate the subject against a ridge with a blue sky or in front of a snowy mountain range if you can. Such contrast will return an image with an impressive atmosphere.

3. Composition: Unless it’s possible to fill

4.

the frame with only the subject, it’s crucial to find a striking or pleasant composition and contrast between the subject and its surroundings. Normally we tend to locate the subject in the center of the frame, what is often referred to as “dead in the middle.”

Dead, because this composition does nothing to create any atmosphere around the image. Try to place the animal in the lower part of the frame, leaving more room for the animal’s real surroundings, adding more sky, mountains and landscape, instead of a blur of dirt. Another little trick is to leave some “air” in the direction of the subject. This refers to adding some space in the direction where your subject is heading or looking.

Attitude: Once you select a light direction that allows you to view a great background, choose a nice composition that shows the animal living in its habitat. Take a moment and be patient. It’s the only way to achieve something special. If it’s possible to make your subject look in the direction of the camera, this will add a sense of intimacy to the photograph. If there are several subjects, a few minutes of patience can be the difference between a regular old snapshot and a magazine cover.

Fox and Torres del Paine.

wate rpr o o f i n g y o u r r uc k sack

Water is heavy. A quart of water weighs about two pounds. A rucksack full of rainwater would be impossible to lift. This is why folks buy backpack covers, but they’re expensive. They weigh up to half a pound and usually leave much of your pack exposed anyway. Plus down here in Patagonia, the wind is prone to grab the flimsy cover up like a kite and set it flying. What’s more, they won´t even protect your pack if it takes a dip in a creek or river.

Tip: Try lining your pack with a heavy-duty trash bag. A regular garbage bag is fine too, but the thicker the better. The trash bag offers FULL protection for everything in your pack, without having to carry the extra weight of a pricy backpack cover. Just be careful not to rip a hole in the bag while packing. And remember to have the top storage pouch lined at all times as well. When you’re ready to turn in for the night, just pull the plastic bag out of your wet backpack and move it, and your dry gear, into your tent with you. The outside of your pack might spend the night a little wet, but it’ll dry easily when the sun pops out.

Next time the clouds open up and dump rain, everyone will scramble to protect their packs. But not you. You’ll be calm as a Hindu cow, knowing all your clothes and gear are wrapped and waterproof safely in a plastic bag.

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Torres del Paine Climbing Permits wat e r ! WATER !

While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you’d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp in mild weather would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: Clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that’s different. If you’re feeling thirsty, then you’re already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also signs of dehydration.

Take time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It’s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a liter in one sitting.

This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it’s so important to drink continually all day.

Patagonia is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So, bottoms up!

For any climbing expeditions in Torres del Paine or other locations in Chile, you need to fulfill all the necessary conditions set by CONAF (Chilean National Forestry Corporation) and DIFROL (Dirrección de Fronteras y Limites del Estado). Here’s what you need to do...

Get DIFROL approval.You can obtain it before you leave home, and it’s free. Check out their web site (www.difrol.cl). Download an application form.You can apply for DIFROL permission either directly to a regional government office in Chile or via the Chilean Consulate in your own country.

If you arrive to Puerto Natales without DIFROL permission, visit the regional government offices in town, on Eberhard and Tomas Rogers, telephone: 411423.

Once in the area in which you wish to climb, you need to report to the Carabineros de Chile. For Torres del Paine, they’re located in Cerro Castillo and at the Administration Center in the Park.

They’ll check your authorization and make sure you’re adequately equipped for your expedition.

Then you’ll need CONAF permission, which is also free. It is granted by the Park Administrator. Make sure you take these items to the Park with you...

• Your DIFROL approval • Passports of every member in your group • Rescue insurance policy details, including name and address of the insurer, policy number and a contact telephone number or American

Althea Rogers, waiting out the storm.

Alpine Club membership card.

Details of your route(s) and intended timescale.

Plan a trip to the Administration Center, where you will need to provide the name of your Expedition (so if you don’t have a name already, think up something impressive before you arrive!) and all the documentation already mentioned.

The insurance documents are vital. You will not get your permit without them. The permit is required for your own protection in the case of an emergency. If you have an accident CONAF needs to know where you are, and also that you have the insurance coverage in place to meet the costs of •

any rescue operation needed. While CONAF Park rangers will assist anyone who is injured or otherwise incapacitated on the marked trails without charge, it does not have the resources to rescue those who undertake dangerous sports off the marked trails.You do that at your own risk and expense.

Once approved, CONAF will give you a copy of the permit. You need to take this permit to the ranger station of the first sector in which you are planning to climb. CONAF will nominate a Park ranger as the main contact for your expedition with whom you should stay in contact through the duration of your climbing, so that they can monitor your safety and know when you leave.

Black Sheep

The perfect trekking partner

T

raveling is hard. Anyone who says different isn’t a traveler; they’re a tourist. A traveler’s life and their trip are one in the same, living life while traveling rather than taking a vacation from life. There’s a cool, unspoken code between travelers: trust.Trust that no one is going to rummage through your backpack in the hostel or that another backpacker will keep an eye on your stuff while you’re in the bathroom. We meet people on the road, talk, share meals, and travel with strangers.

In this environment, it’s certainly not uncommon to meet another person who also needs a trekking partner. The best thing you can hope for is meeting a new friend that will be with you forever, and the worst thing that can happen is you can get hooked up with someone who’s not trustworthy or who is just plain annoying.

So, how do you choose the perfect trekking partner? How do you tell someone it’s not working out? How do you tell a complete stranger that they’re bugging the crap out of you?

The big choice...

Deciding who you want to trek with is as important to as the itinerary itself. You may have a specific goal for your trip, or you may just want to spend time with the group. The trick is making sure everyone is on the same page. We’re all individuals with our individual quirks, and that’s great. But it’s better to find out if your idiosyncrasies mesh before the trip.

Develpoing a standard trail conduct for the team can usually prevent most problems.

Things like diet, sleeping arangements, nudity, wake up times, or even the route are good indicators of how the trip will be. Another important detail is the average pace of the group. One person’s goal may

be to experience a relaxing spiritual awakening and another’s goal may be to push themselves physically, reach their limits and surpass them. A pairing like this could cause a problem.

After the fact...

So what happens when you’re already out on the trail when you realize your new trekking partner isn’t working out? Option 1. Take the high road. Try to deal with it. Is it really that bad?

Can you handle it for the sake of the trip? Just suck it up a little? Option 2. Talk with your team about what’s got your panties in a bunch, and see if the problem can be solved. Don’t under-estimate the power of peer pressure.There might just be others in the group that feel the same way. Most people will try to overlook problems and not say anything. If you mention what’s bugging you, you may even end up being the hero of the trip.

Option 3. Bail. Get out. Run. But how?

How to seperate...

If for some reason you know it’s time to call your partnership quits and you’re ready to go your own way (or send somebody else packin’), think about these things first...

1. Safety first.

Never leave a partner in a situation where

Daytrips on a Shoestring.

With wheels.

In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far away” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera.

If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the Park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “El Camino a Dumestre”).

You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endlessly they careen by the sea. The

they--or you--may be put in harm’s way. Nobody should ever be left without proper equipment, food supplies, or knowledge. Even if you manage to split the food, fuel, and tents, there is no way to split experience. The group dynamic from the beginning may have lead to the trek or climb that was chosen.

The mountains are no place for assumptions when dealing with safety.

2. No secrets. Never try to depart secretly or run off witout saying a word. And no fake reasons, no lies. Be polite; don’t let frustration or anger get the best of you, but do explain why you’re bugging out of the trip. If you have the balls enough to leave mid-trip, then have the balls enough to say why. This also has to do with saftey. People need to know where you’re going, specifically, and why.

3. Equipment is often divided among the group. It might not be possible to just take off. Someone could be left holding the stove, while another has the fuel, and a tent can’t be divided like a chocolate bar.

If you have any doubts or a history of wanting to go your own way, you’d better plan for this possibilty in advance. It’s a bit heavier, but you can still trek with a group while staying selfsufficient. Then, at any point, if the pace or your destination changes, you have the freedom to do what you need to do.

The perfect trekking partner...

No one wants to dump a partner--or be dumped. So, what does make the perfect trekking partner? The list is long and maybe undefinable, but here are a few tricks to impress the rest of your team...

1.

Have a sense of humor; it’s a trekker’s best friend 2. When it’s time for a water run at camp, grab everyone’s water bottle for a fill up.

3. Hide extra treats in your pack to share with the team, or surprise them with a snort of whiskey on day four.

4. Mind your personal hygiene. Enough said.

5. Don’t be the first to complain about foul weather conditions. Don’t be that guy!

6. Be responsible for the distance between you and the person in front of you. It makes people nervous to have someone on their tail.

7. Thou shalt not covet thy neighbors food or gear. Nothing is more annoying than a trekking partner who planned and packed poorly and assumes that the rest of the team will take care of them. Don’t be that guy either! Be the one who brought a little extra toilet paper or dried fruit.

8. Be prepared to carry a little extra. Carrying the garbage or the wet tent shows leadership and sets a good example, and creates an upward spiral.

9. Try to avoid gassing out your tent partner.

10. Wake up before everyone else. Greeting your teammates with a hot drink in the morning is what legends are made of.

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS 2008-2009 Season Schedule

Dates farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. On a clear day, you’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Peninsula.

If you come prepared, you can even camp along the beach. The law in Chile states that no one can own the edges of the ocean, fjords, or lakes. A two-day bike ride, with all your kit, is a great way to see a quieter (and cheaper) Patagonia. Puerto Natales claims some of the best views in Chile and should not be missed. Biking south, out of town, will serve you an unforgettable helping of eye-candy. If this sounds nice, but you’re still unsure, ask yourself this simple question: When do you think you’ll be back?

By Rustyn Mesdag

From Pudeto

From Refugio Pehoe

November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009

09.30* 12.00 18.00

10.00* 12.30 18.30

March 16 - 31, 2009

12.00 18.00

12.30 18.30

April 2009

12.00

12.30

*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2008 & 01/01/2009.

One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person

Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net

Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? Love Puerto Natales and planning on staying here? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two-hour hike up Cerro Dorotea, definitely on the top of the list of activities around here.

Pack up your camera, rent a bike or hail a taxi. If taking a taxi, ask them to drop you off at Mirador Dorotea. If you’re not in a rush, you can just hitchhike the approximately 9 km to the Mirador.

If you bike to Dorotea, take the road toward Punta Arenas and keep a lookout for the sign “Cerro Mirador Dorotea.” It’s a 15-minute taxi ride to the southern side of Dorotea. When you arrive, you’ll

have to pay the woman who lives in the house there about $3.000 pesos. This gives you permission to cross her property, and assures that a light meal with tea will be waiting for you when you return from hiking up the hill.

Boot it on up the trail. It’s well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales.

From the view point, you catch a great view of Natales and Seno Última Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif and surrounding mountains is gorgeous. After exploring the ridgeline, head back down to enjoy your lunch and chat with the property owner.

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...

Fotografia © 2008 Daniel Bruhin W.

On foot.

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming.

JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Puerto Natales is a city in Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park. It is the capital of Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region.

Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911.

Nowadays, the livelihood of Puerto Natales relies on tourism.

Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Torres del Paine, there are all kinds of day tours that you can booked from the various agencies in the downtown area.

Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawéskar tribe, or Alacaluf, and the Aonikenk, or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the

questions & answers

oM

on tt

es

da

ace

mo ra

ino

ez

mir

ns

iggi

O‘H

a B. Z

var

Gal a E. R

ano

ued

Baq

into C. P

da

eral

Esm

da

s

ulne

M. B

cala

n B. E

rd

Balm

rat A. P

s

rha

i

nes

os

rrill

Cho

Mag

ns

alla

iggi

O‘H

nes

Fábrica de muebles Fabricación de partes y piezas de madera Muebles de oficina, cocina, dormitorio y racks.

Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?!

It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.

tal

ilip

alla

Where can I buy white gas?

The pharmacies carry clean white gas. Also find them in the outdoor and building material stores.

How much do the taxis cost?

1.000 pesos within city limits.

ies

E be

What are the winters like around here?

Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful.

Why is there so much trash on the beach?

That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up.

B. P h

Mag

Where can I buy camping food in town?

Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively.

Bor

ros

Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day?

Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies.

Duruing regular business hours, you can find them at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591.

t

ore

Señ

What about shopping hours midday?

Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for Abu G.

What services are there in the winter?

Public transportation to Torres del Paine stops.

Many restaurants are closed, but there are things open; you just have to look a little harder for it.

Stop by erratic rock for more info and bookings for private transportation to the Park.

Na

rille

What the heck is a “Zodiac”?

A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River, heading into Torres del Paine.

Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories

ero

Lad

What is Navimag?

Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers between Natales and Puerto Montt.

Est

Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea

a ran B. A

If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning?

This depends on sea conditions and arrival times.

Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A.

Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them?

Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes).

Puerto Natales, Chile

r oge T. R

If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day?

This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop.

A free information seminar is held every day at erratic rock hostel at 3 p.m. -Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales. Everything is covered, from refugio info to free campsites, meals to equipment. This hour-long talk is given in English and comes with a smile.

Canal Señoret

Pe dr

Torres del Paine questions?

res

aflo Mir

ay

g Yun

Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place?

It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.

Post Office. As yet, all other recycling is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running “within the next month.” For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo Última Esperanza.

What about recycling programs?

Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the

Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?

Depends on your budget and your destination.

Public transporation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transporation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.

AquaNativa Sea Kayaking Eberhard 161 Puerto Natales,Chile ph 414143

Kayak.

What’s up with all of the dogs running around?

Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...

www.aquanativapatagonia.com Bed & Breakfast

www.hostelgeminis.com

Downtown Puerto Natales Reservations: 56•61•414243

Servimuebles

Phillipi 653 • Puerto Natales, Chile

Baquedano 543, Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61-412065 • servimuebles@live.cl

Great central location • Free internet Rooms with private or shared bath

Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else?

Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang.

Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something?

It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.

What’s a Loadabowl?

Is that like a wilderbeast or something?

Black Sheep

Free Torres del Paine

Information & Trekking Seminar

By A. Ryder

Two Silversmiths.

One Art.

The Taller del Arbol Workshop in Natales

3 o’clock talk at erratic rock.

H

photo by Owen Mesdag

ere at Black Sheep, we award our seal of approval to businesses who give something free to their customers. The 3 o’clock talk at Erratic Rock hostel is a perfect example of this.

Bill Penhollow and Rustyn Mesdag say they started the seminar basically because they had to answer all the same questions over and over throughout the day anyway. “Why not offer up all the informational goodies in one well-orgainzed sitting?”

The two Oregon natives saw the information defecit and decided to fill it. “Traveling to the southern tip of the world to go trekking already takes a certain amount of dedication,” says Rustyn. “Once people arrive this far south, why make traveling any more difficult than it already is? Why not give folks the information that the guidebooks didn’t?” Essentially the talks cover all the info that Bill and Rustyn wish they had when they first got to Patagonia. It’s a simple enough concept: backpackers helping backpackers. That’s how it should be. They give the seminars seven days a week, all season long.

The daily run down covers it all, starting from how to get to the Park, all the logistics you’ll need to know to hike the W trek (4-5 days), the full circuit (8-10 days) or other shorter treks for people who are on a tighter schedule.You’ll learn, for example, why approaching the treks counter-clockwise is the better route, as it eases you into the treks and gives you the less strenuous days when your pack is heaviest and the more difficult days as your pack gets lighter.

You’ll find out what’s possible in the Park (What are the trails like? Can you rent tents from the refugios?

Can you use the refugio kitchens? What does your camping fee get you? Which campsites are free? Can you really drink water straight from the river? Do you have to worry about snakes, poisonous bugs or flying dinosaurs?).

You’ll also hear the latest rucksack reports, like if the couple who just arrived back from the Park yesterday saw a puma or trudged through knee-deep snow in Valle del Frances. If you’re not sure how

to pack your backpack, no problem. Each session provides tips on traveling light as well as how to stuff and--most importantly--waterproof your pack.

A lot of people who come down here aren’t necessarily experienced backpackers, but that doesn’t mean they can’t tackle the W. The gear part of the seminar goes over all the equipment you might need, down to how much gas to carry, depending on the size of your group. They discuss how to plan your meals, go about your food shop and pack your grub.

The idea is to go as light as possible and return to town without having lugged a bunch of extra food or unused fuel with you to the mountains.

Part of the magic of the info seminars is how welcoming and hospitible they are (not to mention funny and entertaining). Every one is welcome! You don’t have to be staying at Erratic Rock or one of their hostels to attend the talk. The talks are in English, however talks in Spanish can also be arranged. When you arrive, one of the ER staff will invite you to a cup of freshly brewed coffee or tea. You’ll be asked to check out the Q&A in Black Sheep, just to familiarize yourself with the basics.

If you’re traveling alone, the talks are also a great way to find yourself a trekking partner, someone who you can share your trek with as well as gear.

Trekking with a partner lightens your load, as you’ll divvy up the tent, food and equipment weight. If you’re renting gear, it’s also lighter on the pocketbook, since you’ll split the cost of, say, renting a tent.

Attending the 3 o’clock talk is the equivalent of taking a backcountry course, given by real mountain guides who happen to have landed in Patagonia. Aside from logistics and how-to’s, the seminar’s main focus is how to prepare yourself and avoid trail stresses, especially those related to the foul weather typical of this region. The idea is to give you everything you need so you can get dirtier boots, in Patagonia and wherever your journeys lead you.

Aquaterra Lodge • Puerto Natales, Chile

Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop,Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318

While traveling in Patagonia, it’s easy enough to find a typical souvenir for yourself or a loved one. But if you want to bring home a real piece of Patagonia, made by good people, who live, work, and play locally, go talk to Ricardo and Felipe.

Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, Taller del Arbol store owners and artist silversmiths have been working together, on and off, since 1985. Their partnership is the result of a series of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to the next, until there you are, not entirely

sure how you got there and not having planned for where you end up. They describe the craft of the jewelry maker: “Any material is valuable if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it.” And that is just what they do.

When talking about the importance of passion in his work, Ricardo explains he has “to keep changing to keep the passion in [his] work. Somehow, you have to conserve part of the passion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to produce more work.” And you see this all over Taller del Arbol, the first silversmith shop in Puerto Natales.

Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work. Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery.

They work with anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, you name it.You can find them in the store with a red door, Eberhard 318, with the hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, Monday-Friday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.

• INTERNET (Broadband 6 mb.)

• CALL CENTER • SOUVENIRS • RENT A CAR • ACCESSORIES • DIGITAL CAMARAS Eberhard Nº 299, Corner of Magallanes jlopez@jlcomputacion.cl • 56-61-415628 Puerto Natales • Patagonía • Chile

vegetarian. fresh-squeezed juices. espresso. shakes. cakes.

FREE

YOUR TASTE BUDS

el Living La Plaza. Pto Natales. Chile.

Phone +56 61 412239 • Bulnes 299 • Puerto Natales, Chile

www.aquaterrapatagonia.com

tapas wine bar. handcrafted beer. sofas. book exchange.

10

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Mama will treat you well

4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY "AQUEDANO

0UERTO .ATALES

Ayurvedic Spa & Wellness Center Equilibrize body, mind & soul



Mama Rosa

INDIGO HOTEL - Ladrilleros 105 PUERTO NATALES - 413 609

erratic rock 2 Bed & Breakfast b. zamora 732 puerto natales, chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 414317

A hostel alternative for couples.

Private double rooms, private bathrooms, organic breakfasts and a smile.

Eberhard 161 • Puerto Natales • Patagonia • Chile Phone: (061)414143 / (56-9)6971047 piaurbina@ayurvastu.com www.ayurvastu.com

el

SOSIEGO HOSTEL

puerto natales, chile Miraflores 798 Phone 83511728 chamorromilosevic@yahoo.es



www.elsosiego.net

Lowe Alpine • North Face • Marmot • Primus • Sierra Designs

Rent-Equipment Cecilia 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Eberhard 214 Pto. Natales • agenciacecilia@yahoo.es • 56.61.412589 • Credit cards accepted

The Milodon Laundry Service

Drop your pants here.

Drop off before noon for same-day service.

Closed Sundays.

Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m.

Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales, Chile

On the Street in Chile

A

s you navigate Chilean cities with your trusty street maps, you may wonder why most of the street names are surnames and who these people were? Past Chilean presidents inhabit some of the names, but the streets also honor people and places with great significance in the area’s historic development. Here are a few common street names...

• LADRILLEROS. Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor who, in 1557, was sent by the Spanish government to find a sea exit from the Magellan Straits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food, energy and the loss of many men, he decided that the voyage into the body of water that surrounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope in reaching their goal. (Hence the name Última Esperanza, or Last Hope. Incidentally the Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years!

• O´HIGGINS. The Liberator Bernardo O’Higgins, together with José de San Martín, crossed from Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army and drove out the Spanish. He restored Chile’s independence and became Chile’s first President in 1818.

• BLANCO ENCALADA. The first Commander of the Chilean Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land of his Chilean mother as his home. A great political figure, he was President of the Republic for a mere two months in 1826.

• BULNES. Manuel Bulnes’ military victory over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in 1839, secured his personal victory of becoming President of the Republic (1841-1851).

• ARTURO PRATT. A valiant naval captain who died at the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (The Huascar), accompanied by only one sergeant.

• ESMERALDA. The name of Captain Arturo Pratt’s ship in the Battle of Iquique.

By Thomas S. Daly

• TOMAS ROGERS. Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Captain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glacier.

On arrival, he named it Francisco Gomaz in honor of the expedition. Many years later the Argentineans renamed it in honor of Perito Francisco Moreno, an Argentine hydrographer.

• BAQUEDANO. General Manuel Baquedano defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles (March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and later captured Lima (Jan 1881).

• CHORRILLOS. The site of the first battle in the wave to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881).

• BALMACEDA. José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal anticlerical group, prevented Argentina from entering the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide reform program, which led to civil war. He later fled to Argentina where he committed suicide.

• EBERHARD. Captain Hermann Eberhard was an explorer and first settler of the Province of Última Esperanza in Chile. He named the hill that overlooks Puerto Natales after his first daughter, Dorotea.

Laguna Sofía is named after his second daughter.

In 1892, it was actually one of his workers who discovered the famous Milodon Cave, where the remains of various prehistoric animals were found, including saber-toothed tigers, camels, deer and of course the giant sloth milodon. Today, the Eberhard family still lives on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo, just outside Puerto Natales.

• KRUGER. Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area for Argentina. Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentineans left without fuss. Due to this event the Chilean government populated Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future attempts by the Argentine navy.

Your Homework on the Road

Backpack - Check. Sleeping bag - Check.

Boots - Check. Gore-tex jacket - Check. Sunglasses - Check. Do you ever wonder where all this stuff comes from? Sure, it’s from the store, but how is it made? What happens before it makes its way to the store? What happens when you’re done using it?

The internet video ‘The Story of Stuff With Annie Leonard’ (www.storyofstuff.com) explores the line of consumption, from extraction to disposal. You need to check out this eye-opening video, and tell your friends to do the same.

Most of us are at least a little bit familiar with the gruesome statistics surrounding waste. In the Amazon, 2,000 trees are being cut down every minute. 80% of the world’s original forests are gone, kaput.The U.S. government admits to producing four billion pounds of toxic chemicals every year.

Individuals produce 4.5 pounds of garbage a day. If everyone on Earth consumed as crazily as Americans, we would need 3-5 planets in order to survive. The statistics vary slightly according to source, but any way you look at them, even if you choose to do so with your eyes closed, they’re there.

It’s easy to stay numb to the data, maybe because we already know it too well or because we rely on our material items so much that we believe we can’t live without them. Plus, we only see the product part of production, the easy, consumable part. Ads glide across our televisions, telling us we need to buy more stuff, newer stuff. We eye what’s on the shelves in the stores, all so easy to buy, and so cheap, especially when you think about all the labor that goes into making the product. Metal

mined in South Africa. Petroleum drilled in Iraq.

Some plastic thrown in from China. Assembled in Mexico. Shipped to the United States. Shelved and sold as cheaply and as quickly as possible.

These days, the average American consumes twice as much more than they did 50 years ago. For a reason. We might think the consumer boom existed longer than we have, but it was, in fact, premeditated and researched. American post-WWII retail analyst Victor LeBeau said, “Our enormously productive economy… demands that we make consumption our way of life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, that we seek our spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in consumption… We need things consumed, burned up, replaced and discarded at an ever-accelerating rate.”

But the mad cycle that such consumerism calls for doesn’t make people happy. Think of the huge number of prescriptions for anti-depressants (another item to consume, of course). Work till you drop. Watch TV to relax. Feel low because the pretty people on commercials suggest you be more like them. Buy more to be like the pretty people in those ads. Work more to afford to buy more, and so on.

We shouldn’t think of this as a purely North American problem, however. The maniacal cycle pervades many countries. It’s time to hop off this hamster wheel. If people created the model of consumerism, surely, we can recreate a more sustainable way to live with our Earth. To find out more, take 20 minutes to view ‘The Story of Stuff.’

And recycle the information: Pass it on!

11

Black Sheep

The Patagonian Rebel Flag

By Sarah Anderson

Fresia 315, Pucón, Chile

Flag of the XII Region of Magallanes & Antártica Chilena.

(The blue represents the night sky, yellow is for the steppe, or pampa, and white for the snow-covered peaks. The stars are the Southern Cross, or Cruz del Sur.)

Open grill Beef & fresh seafood Chilean & Argentine wines

The best cuts of meat from the south of Chile www.lagrilla.cl • contacto@lagrilla.cl

Y

ou may not be aware of it, but for many locals you are no longer in Chile. You are in the Independent Republic of Magallanes. Many travelers will have noticed the attractive Magallanes flag on jackets and bags, on local produce, painted on houses, hung outside public buildings and, of course, on the ubiquitous car sticker. Magallanes is still part of Chile but it is one of only two regions (Atacama being the other) that has its own flag.

This flag was officially adopted in September 1996 as well as a coat of arms, a rosette, and a regional hymn. The ñirre tree, the calafate flower and the ñandu were also chosen as symbols to represent the region. Although the flag is flown most days in public places and buildings, it must be officially flown on September 21 (when the Strait of Magellan was claimed by Chile in 1843), September 29 (when Patagonia was incorporated into Chile in 1554) and on the Regional Day celebrated on October 21.

So why is there a regional flag? Is there a serious separatist movement among the rebellious Magallanicos? The flag is hugely popular with the people of Magallanes, but perhaps it is more a representation of regional pride rather than a symbol of regionalist separatism. Interestingly the Facebook group “Republica Independiente de Magallanes,” with more than 5,000 members, appears to be a mainly nostalgic site for Magallanicos now living elsewhere, rather than a hotbed of activism.

When asked, friends and acquaintances from the region unanimously declared themselves to be first and foremost Magallanicos. There is

definitely a regionalist spirit with which most locals identify. During the Pinochet era the region was kept in geographical and communicational isolation, and this helped to create a distinct identity.

Another factor is the proximity of Argentina and the fact that Magallanes shares many more cultural similarities with the neighboring region of Santa Cruz than with the rest of Chile.

Many Magallanicos feel that the region has been ignored by the decision makers in Santiago (although perhaps many other regions watching the daily news will share this sentiment).

Flights to the region are the most expensive in continental Chile, and the goods and petrol/gas are the most costly. Magallanicos, many descended from immigrants from all over the world, have worked hard to create what is one of the most prosperous regions in Chile and they rightly feel proud of this achievement and somewhat slighted by the nortinos (northerners) who laugh at their sing-song way of speaking and funny expressions.

Magallanicos are well-known for their solidarity with others, whether this is a gringo with a flat tire or a gaucho hitching to his estancia. This solidarity can be seen at its best in November when the region will engage in a massive fundraising frenzy to raise money for the local rehabilitation centers in Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales.

So a separate republic seems unlikely in the near future, but without a doubt the flag will continue to be flown and seen not only throughout Chile, but also--by judging from how popular it is with tourists--all over the world.

so ck s & Sho e s

Before undertaking a multi-day trek consider this: new socks, old shoes. It’s not a good time to see if those new shoes work.

SOCKS: It’s amazing how important sock selection is when engaged in an long day hike or multi-day trek. The coarse threads of hiking socks eventually begin to dig into your skin causing discomfort and blisters. Avoid this by wearing a thin nylon liner sock as a first layer. Any pair of light socks will do in a pinch. Bring an extra pair for replacement half way. There’s something refreshing about putting on a pair of socks half-way through a killer hike. Waterproof socks can do more damage than good. These unbreathable socks will hold all the sweat and moisture against your skin, giving you blisters and hot spots.

SHOES: The success and enjoyment of a serious trek is directly related to your shoe selection. Choose light, flexible shoes over stiff, heavy hiking boots. Every pound of shoe is the equivalent to carrying 7-9 pounds on your back. Minimize shoe weight by selecting a cross-trainer with ankle support, a trail-running shoe, or one of the lighter hiking shoes that are readily available. When you go shopping for “hiking” shoes, you’ll likely be encouraged to buy something with “great ankle support” and a steel shank so you won’t “feel the rocks.” This makes sense if you’re planning to carry a 60-pound pack and trekking through scree (small rocks) or other rugged terrain. However, if you’re staying on established trails, lighter, more flexible shoes are fine.

Coffee, chocolate & views.

Miguel Sanchez 11, Puerto Natales, Chile ph:412989

12

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Growing Up Wild in Patagonia For the Girls...

On the trail it’s important to have a plan for that special time of the month.

A change in environment, physical exercise and the stresses attached to these things can sometimes lead to changes in a woman’s cycle, including early or late cycle start, cessation or a heavier flow. While there is no permanent worry in either case, it’s a good idea to be prepared. Experienced female guides typically carry extra sanitary material, just in case. In general carrying one-third more tampons or pads is a safe bet, even if you’re not expecting your cycle to come while you’re in the woods.

For disposal, the same rules of waste apply: Pack it in. Pack it out. Do not bury tampons or pads! Aside from the fact that they take a long time to biodegrade, they also present a fire hazard if they become unburied. A doubled, resealable plastic bag works well. Place this bag system into a small stuff sack to keep it private. If you’re worried about smell, try crushing a regular aspirin and sprinkling it into the bag.

As far as peeing in the woods is concerned, men may not need to worry about toilet paper, but women take such things into consideration. Carrying a constant supply of toilet paper, always ready and handy, can be inconvenient.

Plus, it’s more weight to carry. Consider reusing a bandana or special cloth as a pee rag. It may sound gross, but when it will dry out when you lay it in the sun or tie to the back of your rucksack on a warm day.

The rag will be sterilized and dry enough to reuse until you get it to camp for a wash.

By Veronica Irribarra

S

outhern Patagonia is truly a “geographical island,” where some 10 million years of isolation have resulted in a high number of endemic species. That is to say, many of the species that have evolved here are exclusive to this part of the world.

In order to survive the extreme weather here, species have developed resistance to low temperatures, strong winds, low rainfall and limited hours of daylight during the winter months.The unique nature of flora and fauna are what lured naturalist Charles Darwin here in the end of the 19th century.

In autumn you’ll see beautiful reds, oranges and yellows of Patagonia’s beech trees, the ñirre (Nothofagus antartica) and lenga (Nothofagus pumilio), as they prepare for winter. They lose their leaves and become dormant, a condition which originating in the past under the freezing conditions of the Antarctic. Ñirre and lenga trees are difficult to distinguish at first glance. The key to recognizing them is in the leaves: Look closely at the leaves’ edges and count the rounded lobes between each vein. The lenga leaf has two regular lobes, while the edges of the ñirre leaf are irregular.

Yet another local beech tree, known as the guindo or Magellan coigüe (Nothofagus betuloides) is an evergreen, typical of the Magellan woodland. The cells in its leaves have evolved in order to achieve more efficient photosynthesis in the winter months. A common trait of all these trees is that they have small, tough, leather-like leaves and a cuticle with a thin waxy layer which helps to regulate evaporation of vital water.

During your treks, you’ll also notice two species of parasitic plants cohabiting with the various beeches. The rounded, green Chinese Lantern (Mysondendrum punctulatum) or Farolito Chino in Spanish, was used by the local people on the Island of Tierra del Fuego to make a vodka-based “Fuegian Liquor.” Pan de Indio (Cyttaria darwinii) roughly translates to Bread of the natives, but is less attractively known as Darwin’s Fungus in English. It is a spherical, yellow fungus which causes the tree to form knots, which are used by local artisans to make souvenirs.

The fungus was an important part of the Yaghan diet, a native people of Island of Tierra del Fuego. Today

Notro pan de indio is still used in salads and to make jams.

Other well known fruits in Patagonian cuisine include the berries of the Chaura (Pernettya Mucronata) also known as Prickly Heath in English, a low level bush with attractive red fruits that are produced twice a year, and the fruit of the Wild Currant (Ribes magallanicum) or Zarzaparrilla in Spanish, with its clusters of dark red, intenselyflavored berries. Both can be made into delicious jam, as can the fruit of the Calafate (Berberis buxifolia), an evergreen bush typical of the Andean shrubland.

Calafate, a type of barberry, is famous for the legend that accompanies eating it: Anyone who eats the Calafate berry will return to these lands. Its delicious deep-blue berries are collected in February to make jam, liquor and ice-cream. They are also enjoyed by many birds, rodents and the Patagonian Fox amongst others.

In Springtime, Southern Patagonia’s pathways are brightened by pretty flowers of the Calceolarias genre (uniflora and biflora), herbaceous perennials that can be spotted between December and February.One of the more common species is referred to as Virgin’s Slippers (Zapatitos de la Virgen). You can also find seven species of orchids. Some of the more common orchids you’ll see include the Yellow Orchid or Barita de Oro in Spanish (Gavilea lutea). It is found in open or semi-shaded areas, and studies undertaken in the Torres del Paine National Park suggest that it is an important part of the diet of the Huemul or Andean Deer (Hippocamelus bisulcus).You’re also likely to see Chloraea magallanica or Porcelain Orchid, the

Zapatito de la Virgen largest of the species in the region, so called because its green-veined flowers look like cracked porcelain.

You can see it in the thick grassland and shrubby areas of the Southern Patagonian steppe. The Codornorchis lessonii, known as the Palomita in Spanish or Dog Orchid in English, has delicate white flowers with pink markings. They grow individually or in colonies in protected woodland areas.

Alongside water courses, streams and waterfalls you are also likely to find the Waterfall Plant or Flor de la Cascada in Spanish (Ourisia ruelloides). Its attractive deep-red flowers are shaped like clarinets. Ranunculus are also common, the most common being the Ranunculus peduncularis (Botón del Oro) whose large yellow flowers adorn the open grasslands. This is a pioneer species, meaning that it is an excellent colonizer, so it is often found along the roadside and on land that has been disturbed.

Similarly, the Firebush, Notro or Ciruello in Spanish, (Embothrium coccineum) typically colonizes former woodland areas. An evergreen bush, it’s pretty flowers are easy to identify.

If you are fortunate enough to visit Southern Patagonia when the flowers are in bloom, you’ll feast on an unforgettable landscape. Please not to pick or cut flowers, as the reproduction of the species depends on them. Take a photograph instead, or simply give yourself time on your walk to stop and enjoy them. Consider their shape, their symmetry, their colors, their apparent fragility and the world which is constantly changing around them. This way, others can also enjoy nature’s gifts.

Mandala Andino Clean & Natural Outdoor Tubs Massages & Natural Bar Relaxation Therapies Gift shop & Café

Mandala Andino • Eberhard 161 • Puerto Natales, Chile • Ph: 56-61 415749

13

Black Sheep

Punta Arenas, Chile POPULATION: 130.000 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam).

The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those

interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals.

Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March.

If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.

questions & answers How much do taxis cost?

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?

Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.

What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?

To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.

What does Punta Arenas mean?

Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.

All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.

Where can I change money?

There are a few agencies, concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.

How far is Torres del Paine from here?

4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano.

5hrs to the Laguna Amarga entrance. Most people make a stop over in Puerto Natales.

How far is it to Puerto Natales, Porvenir & Ushuaia?

250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.

Can I drink the tap water?

Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.

Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map?

Yes! For a price. Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255) offers boat trips to remote islands for almost-off-the-map trekking, fishing, and more.

Whalesound offers whalewatching adventures deep in the Strait of Magellan.

What are my penguin options?

Why are there ropes around the plaza?

1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.

Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street. For real.

2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.

Where is the bus station?

Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station.

Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.

Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas?

Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. The “full day Paine” will be a very long bus ride. But if you’re that short on time…

Is there any public transportation?

Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop on, take it as far as it goes--until you’re the last one on the bus and the driver nervously looks at you in the rear-view mirror.

Then ask him to take you back to the centro.

Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off.

Both options are pretty inexpensive.

How do I know where the colectivos go?

There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!

3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day during penguin season, roughly October-March.

What type of day tours are there?

You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, Whalesound, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest.

Do the street dogs bite?

Yes, gringos only.

Torres

f e del paine e Cabañas del Paine l Hotel

f e e l

s i e n t e

. 44 rooms with the best view of the Paine mountain chain . Restaurant and grill incorporated . Excurtions and transfers www.cabanasdelpaine.cl reservas@cabanasdelpaine.cl phone:243354

Rio de Los ciervos

f e e estancia l “The past of pioners

f e e l

s i e n t e

close to Punta Arenas”

. Only 5 km of the city . Historical Circuit . Typical Food . Horses riding . Acommodations

www.estanciariodelosciervos.com Fonos reservas: 061- 710219 fax: 243354 asz@soloexpediciones.com

How far is the airport out of town?

About 20km or 30 minutes.

f e experts e Magdalena and l

Penguin

How much is an airport transfer?

A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There is a cheaper minibus shuttle option, which takes a bit longer because they pick people up along the way.

Can I reach the end of the continent?

From Punta Arenas, the road continues about 60 km south. From there, you’ll hike about three days to Cabo Froward, the southernmost tip of South America’s mainland continent (not including islands like Tierra del Fuego).

How do I get to the big shopping mall from downtown?

Take a taxi, or cheaper yet - take a colectivo number 800, 300, 114, 112, 777 or 17. These colectivos will drop you off at the huge grocery store, Lider, which is part of the mall.

s i e n t e

Marta Island

. (150.000 penguins y 1500 sea lions) . Seno Otway Penguin colony . Bulnes Fort Jose Nogueira 1255 Pta. Arenas www.soloexpediciones.com

fotografo: Luis Bertea

f e e l

14

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Extreme Whale Watching

Humpback whale lunge feeding in Whale Sound.

I

n 1999, biologist Juan Capella and his associates were scouting out whales, which brought them to the extreme southern seas. Deep into the Strait of Magellan, they found humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae), and Juan has been here studying them ever since. In fact, once they discovered the whale population here, they started scourging old accounts of the region and found records of humpbacks in the area dating as far back as the 16th century. The rediscovery of the humpback feeding ground led to the creation of Whalesound, which offers scientific whalewatching adventures to the area. The whale research also established Chile’s first protected marine area, Marine Park Francisco Coloane. The meeting of the Pacific

Whale watching on Esturion II.

and Atlantic Oceans precipitates not only extreme, variable weather, but also an area of fascinating marine life diversity, where--apart from whales--visitor’s will spy sea lions, fur seals, dolphins and all kinds of seabirds, including penguins.

Each whalewatching journey combines research and adventure.All trips are weather permitting, as just arriving to Calros III Island is an undertaking in itself. Very few people who make it all the way to Patagonia actually venture any further into the Strait of Magellan than Punta Arenas. It’s a long trip, 8-10 hours in a pretty small boat. With the extremely changeable, windy and wet weather of Southern Patagonia, you never know if the boat will be breaking the waves or carving calm waters. It’s a good idea to bring some sea sickness medicine with you. But if the boat starts a rockin’, don’t swallow an entire pill to start out, especially if your not used to them. See how you feel after half a pill, because they tend make you loopy and knock you out for the count. If after 30 minutes or so, you still feel queasy, go ahead and pop the other half.

On the way to the island, you’ll see all kinds of marine wildlife. You’ll notice how the landscape of broken fjords and mountains transforms. Most of Patagonia is dry and desertlike. But the deeper you sail into the Stretch, the more lush the landscape becomes. You’ll round the cross at Cabo Froward, the sourthernmost tip of the mainland South American continent. You’ll enter another world of temperate coastal rainforest, where it rains 80-90% of the time (making rain gear essential).

When you arrive to Carlos III Island, you’ll likely notice the energy: a cross of mystical and wild. Verdant and alive. Once you disembark into the calm, you’ll hear life as if for the first time: birdsong and chatter, whales breathing, spouting and breaching offshore. This is only the beginning of your adventure.

Having developed your sea legs, you’ll spend the

next couple of days taking mini journeys in the boat, traveling even deeper into the Strait to sea lion and penguin colonies; to Santa Inez Glacier; and to simply hang out alongside feeding and breaching humpbacks in their natural habitat.You’ll listen to the whales and the ruckus of seabirds, seals and sea lions wheeling about nearby and snatching up the uneaten krill.

After settling into your ecological dome tent, eating something warm and delicious and enjoying some wine, you’ll walk up the raised boardwalk to the observation center atop the island. Here’s where Juan gives you background on his research and on humpback whales in general. There’s a telescope, binoculars and a lone chair covered by a sleeping bag facing the window out to the sea. Maps and graphs cover the walls. The graphs show which whales have been identified, what month they arrive to the region and how long they stay. Some whales only arrive once, but more often they return season after season.

Juan explains that humpbacks are found all over the world, but there are several different groups. They winter and reproduce close to the equatorial tropical regions and they summer and feed (from approximately December to May) in the polar regions. The migration group that arrives to this region is part the Pacific Southeast population, consisting of about 4,000 animals, migrating from between Panama and Ecuador. Of this group, only 150 humpbacks arrive to Whale Sound. The rest continue on to Antarctica.They are not sure why certain whales stay here, but Juan explains that the ones who make it here are loyal, and they have a memory of place.

Juan has identified about 102 individual whales,all of whom he has given names.He photographs the underside of each whales’ ventral fluke--a kind of whale fingerprint--and dorsal fin. He studies their behavior and accompanies every whalewatching excursion, doing more research and answering any questions from Whalesound guests. His ability to identify the whales at significant distances, often just by their behavior, is nothing short of incredible. Juan holds a great respect for the animals, making sure that the boat doesn’t disturb them when they are trying to sleep, for example. Currently Juan and his colleagues are working on three projects: identifying more whales, taking genetic samples to study animal sex, and studying how the humpbacks interact with each other and their environment. In March, they will start to tag the whales to see what their exact migratory route is.

To book an excursion with Whalesound, visit them at www.whalesound.com. Each trip begins with an overnight stay at San Isidro Lighthouse, the southernmose hotel on the continent, the evening prior to the trip start, so allow for one extra day.There are confirmed trips for March and April 2009 on the following dates: March 9-11, 17-19 & 26-28, April 0507, 10-12, 14-16 & 23-25. They also offer kayak trips and a full-day helicopter programs.

By Heather Poyhonen

Humpback Facts...

• 5th largest whale species, weighing up to 45 tons and measuring up to 18 meters.

• 1 of 12 species of Baleen whales in the world, so they don’t have teeth. Instead they have large comb-like fringes that work as a filter.

• During the winter, they fast and live off of fat reserves.

• Humpback whales are known to sing for 10-20 minutes at a time, but only in the tropical part of their migration, so the song probably has something to do with mating.

• The females breed roughly every 2-3 years, and the gestation period is 11 months.

• Humpbacks can live to be 45-50 years old.

15

Punta Arenas

The Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino Get your taste of Patagonia’s sweet spot.

By J. Williams the legendary Cape Horn and Antarctic Sea. And while the route offers many worthy experiences, like awesome views that stretch as far as the Cape Horn straits, it is also impressive for what it lacks, like crowded trails, clearly defined paths, and over-crowded refugios. In fact, there are no refugios on the route. There is not even an entrance fee to pay. Trekkers are only required to check in with the carabineros in Puerto Williams. From there, the trailhead is just three kms from the tiny village of Puerto Williams with a good possibility that you won’t see anyone else in the course of the circuit.

The Dientes Circuit is relatively new, developed in the early ’90s by Lonely Planet The typical cairn pattern of the Dientes Circuit trail. Hitting the trekking guide author Dientes is not for everyone. More skill and planning are needed to Clem Lindemayer. A few tackle the rough trails here. of the more prominent peaks along the circuit have been named after him. Cierro Clem, for illed as the southernmost trekking example, makes an impressive profile and serves as opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes an important landmark.

Circuit on Isla Navarino is miles beyond any

Because of the difficulty of the route and ordinary trekking experience. the distance of Isla Navarino from the beaten path,

For 53 kilometers, the route winds the Dientes Circuit receives a fraction of Chile’s through an otherworldly landscape. Mountains annual trekking visitors. The route was marked with broken out from the floor of the ocean. Where the Chilean numbered trail marker system in early the Andes crumble into the Antarctic Plate. Where 2001, but it is still far from a well-marked path. The tenuous passes defy the staggering winds. Where Dientes trekker needs to be self-reliant and good at spartan vegetation clings precariously bracing itself route finding.The 38 trail points are spread over a 53 against the punishing climate and the manipulations km route, with four significant passes to cross and a of the introduced beaver. myriad maze of beaver ponds and dams to negotiate

For the serious trekker, the five-day in the valleys between.

Dientes Circuit is a chance to experience unique

It is strongly advised to follow the route terrain at what is literally the last scrap of land before from Puerto Williams, as the markers are only

B

painted on one side. Since the markers are cairns (rock piles), individual trail markers are often difficult to distinguish from their surroundings without the red signage painted on them to mark the route.

Weather is also a strong factor, particulary the strength of the winds that sweep up from the white continent and make the passes, especially the final pass, Paso Virginia, very dangerous. Blasts of wind strong enough to knock a heavily loaded trekker from their feet are not uncommon and come without warning.

The Dientes Circuit is broken into five stages, each stage requiring about five hours to complete. With the long daylight hours of the southern hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be tempted to combine two stages into one day.

While it is possible to do the circuit in four days, it would involve a day with two passes to surmount or a very long final day, descending from the nearly 900-meter Paso Virginia back to sea level, over a distance of 23 kms.

The route markers end more than 300 meters above sea level, looking down on Bahia Virginia, and from there, the trekker must negotiate through the cow pastures and calafate bushes to the coastal road. Then hike the final 8 kms of pavement back to Puerto Williams. Passing trucks will often stop for trekkers on the final stretch. Otherwise, it’s about a two-hour walk back to Puerto Williams.

Just getting to Isla Navarino is part of the adventure itself. The Patagonian airline company DAP flies a 20-odd seat twin otter from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams daily in the summer.

The flight over Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan is incredibly scenic, and oddly enough, the least expensive option.

There are, however, other options.

Though more expensive than flying, it’s possible to travel by boat from Ushuaia across the Beagle Channel to Puerto Navarino and then travel the 50odd kms of coastal road east to Puerto Williams. For the truly intrepid traveler, the Punta Arenas-based Transbordadora Austral Broom operates a once a week passenger ferry to Puerto Williams, a 30-hour trip through the Straits of Magellan and along the Beagle Channel.Though spartan in accommodations and service, the passing scenery of hanging glaciers and mountains that float on water truly convey an end of the world sensation.

Boulder fields, Rockfall & Scree.

Trekking and climbing through boulder fields, talus or scree means dealing with possible rockfall or other hazards. In such areas, make intentional, confident steps, and keep your balance and agility in tact. Always be aware of others trekking below you, in the fall line.

Walk side by side, instead of in a single-file line, to reduce the chances of knocking a rock loose and hitting a trekker below. In confined areas or gullies, where spreading out isn’t possible, walk directly behind the person in front of you, so loose rocks don’t have the time or distance to build speed before they hit someone. Traveling up gulleys one-by-one to safety zones, out of the way of possible rockfall, is another option.

Should you ever rap a rock loose, of any size, yell “ROCK!” so others can take cover or move out of the way. Discuss this system with your group in advance.

Typically, people’s first reaction to “ROCK!” is to raise their heads up to see what’s going on. A good way to get your teeth knocked out. The proper response is to burrow your head downward, using your backpack to protect your back, neck and head.

Climb with your eyes. Take moments to pause and plan your next step, before you take it. Use your hands for balance. Don’t be afraid to work your way up a boulder field scrambling with all four limbs. Walk on the tops of large, stable boulders, when you can. It’s easier on the knees and gives you the best vantage point to plan your next steps. Do not walk in loose sand under boulders.

Doing so can shift the balance of the huge rocks and cause them to roll onto you.

16

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Patagonia. Doggy style.

Street dogs need your help.

Contact perros@chileaustral.com in Punta Arenas or visit Sarah at El Living in the plaza in Puerto Natales.

HOSTEL Y TURISMO

Jose Menendez 882 Punta Arenas, Chile Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279

JO

S E MENEN D E Z josemenendez@chileaustral.com

www.chileaustral.com/josemenendez Private & shared rooms Private & shared bath Kitchen, internet, laundry Tours & transfers Wi-Fi

O’Higgins 765 Punta Arenas, Chile Tel/Fax (+56 61) 249130 www.estancia.cl hostallaestancia@yahoo.com

La Marmita

Arauco Healthy. Vegetarian.

Patagonian.

Restaurant/Bistro

Senoret

Ave. Colon

Jose Menedez

Fagnano

Waldo Seguel

Errazuriz

Balmaceda

Angamos

Maipu

Ave. Espana

Armando Sanhueza

Chiloe Bories

ogueira

Ave. Bulnes Magallanes

Mayo

Pedro Montt

Lautaro Navarro

Roca

Plaza Sampalo 678 Punta Arenas, Chile O‘Higgins phone 56 61 222056 Sarmiento

Yugoslavia

Mejicana

I. Carrera Pinta

Punta Arenas,

Jorge Montt Quillota

era

tan

os e. C Av

Fully Equipped Kitchen Laundry Service Caupolican Internet & Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Julia Garay Coffee Shop

Hain Hotel

Mario Toledo

José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@gmail.com Punta Arenas, Chile

Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 • Punta Arenas • 56-61 241029

remezon@hotmail.com

The Punta Arenas humane society, La Protectora, needs your help! They provide critical services for stray animals, and are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs, La Protectora (or Corporacion de la Defensa de los Derechos de los Animales, CODDA) runs the southernmost animal shelter in the world.

Founded in 1990 by Señora Elia Tagle to stop the cruel poisoning of stray dogs by the local and federal governments (who used strychnine), the nonprofit runs essential sterilization and educational programs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000.

La Protectora receives no public funding, but they manage to stretch their $20,000 USD per year budget pretty far. On this budget, they operate a shelter with 100-140 dogs and 2-5 cats. Most of their animals are not locked in cages and run around freely in several pens, eating twice daily, playing, and sometimes fighting.

La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified euthanasia when necessary. With the help of the police, they also respond to cruelty and neglect cases.

One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership.

Another project hosts a group of high school students from the local British School, who are obligated to volunteer in order to graduate.

Helping the Natales Dog Population

Patagonia presents...

Wondering what you can do to help? You can help pressure the local and regional governments to support La Protectora. Write a letter to the editor of La Prensa Austral, the Punta Arenas-based regional paper, discussing how this issue affects tourism. The more letters they receive, the more local officials will respond. Draw attention to the issue by speaking with tourist-related businesses, such as travel agencies, tourist offices, and hostels. This helps raise the awareness of locals, who want happy tourists and a good reputation for their town.

Financially, you can make a donation.

Visit their web site (www.chileaustral.com/perros) with a PayPal account. Or better yet, stop by in person.

La Protectora is located on the outskirts of Punta Arenas on the road to Club Andino at Avenida Circunvalación 1950. Call (56-61) 262607 or write to perros@chileaustral.com.

The Penguin Peep Show

By Sarah Anderson

Many visitors will have noticed the great number of dogs on the streets of Natales. Most are friendly, peaceful and relatively well-fed although they will often follow tourists in the hope of a tasty morsel. Probably about half of these dogs have owners and will be let inside or into someone’s garden at night. Others are fed by local people and have their territory but are not actual pets whilst others are complete strays who survive by scrounging and going through the bins.

A few years ago the council’s answer to the problem was to capture the dogs and then put them to sleep. Several hundred were killed in this way until this solution was ruled as unlawful.

The council now seems to have forgotten the issue despite complaints from locals, tourist businesses, dog lovers and dog haters. Poison is frequently used by local people to get rid of strays although this is illegal and is a cruel and random solution causing great suffering to the animals and often mistakenly killing pets as well.

Luckily a group of animal lovers, led

by Sra Maria Diaz, has finally got together to try and address the problem of over-population and responsible pet ownership in Puerto Natales. The Sociedad Protectora Animales Amigos Fieles was set up in December 2007. The group is funded by a monthly quota of $500 pesos paid by the members of the group, who now number over 200, as well as fundraising activities.

Last year the group received a small government grant of $450,000 pesos (about $750 US dollars) to buy the medicines needed to sterilize 80 female dogs. The operations started in January and about 14 dogs have been sterilized so far. Both street dogs and pets are being sterilized by two local vets who are involved in the Sociedad and are giving their time free.The owners are being charged a small fee and the street dogs are sterilized without cost and are then cared for by volunteers before they are returned to the street.

The Sociedad hopes to continue sterilizing the dogs year round.They also hope to develop other projects including providing contraceptive injections for dogs waiting to be sterilized and vaccinations against distemper and parvo-virus. Eventually they would like to build a shelter for strays but they firmly believe that the solution to the problem lies in education and thus are involved in a programme visiting schools and giving talks to primary school children about responsible pet ownership.

Any donations to the sociedad would be most welcome (contact Sarah at El Living Restaurant in the main plaza.)

Photo: Rustyn Mesdag

Every year in mid-September, the first black and white heads timidly pop out of the cold water from the Strait of Magellan. Spring has begun and soon the first brave Magellanic Penguin steps onto one of Patagonia’s lone pebble beaches, just like their anscesters have done for thousands of years.

Only males arrive at the beginning, but it doesn’t take long for the females to join the males and start finding their soul mates for the sole but definite purpose of reproduction. They then stay all summer until their chicks are big enough to join their parents at the end of March on their long journey north.

There are five colonies that you can visit around Punta Arenas: Seno Otway, Isla Magdalena, Cabo Virgenes, Tucker Islet, and Ruppert Islet. All of contain the same species: Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus).

So what are your options?

Pretty much all tour operators and travel agencies in Punta Arenas offer daily departures to Seno Otway in the afternoon, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m., picking folks up at their accommodations. It’s an hour drive through the Patagonian pampas to reach private property, where about 11,000 penguins nest. The landlord officially opened his terrain for visitors on October 15, 2007, and will close it up at the end of March, when the penguins start to head north.This year, the entrance fee at Seno Otway is 4.500 pesos. There’s also a fee of 1.000 pesos to use the private road, the only way to access the colony.

The ferry boat that connects Punta Arenas and Porvenir takes you to Isla Magdalena on Tuesdays,Thursdays, and Saturdays, but it doesn’t start operating until the end of November or beginning of December. There’s about 120,000 penguins on Isla

Who’s watching who?

Magdalena. This excursion begins at “Tres Puentes” port, which you can reach from downtown Punta Arenas by hopping on one of the colectivos, either nº 15 or 20. The price for this tour will be 20.000 pesos, including entrance fee.

Every day at 7:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. (weather permitting), you can catch a fast zodiac boat across the Strait of Magellan to Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta. The latter island is home to about 1,000 sea lions, who consider Isla Magdalena their special penguin restaurant. This is an adventurous yet safe alternative to the ferry. Price: 32.000 pesos, including the shuttle transfer from/to Punta Arenas and to/from the dock, and the entrance fee.

The Eastern entrance of the Strait of Magellan is called Cabo Virgenes. Nearby, on Argentine soil, is a penguin colony that is said to be the second largest in South America (after Punta Tombo), with about 200,000 birds. It is best reached by joining a tour from Río Gallegos or by renting a car and driving the dirt road southeast of Río Gallegos yourself.

It’s a pretty large distance, but the chances that you and the penguins will be the only ones there are pretty good! Price from Río Gallegos: 120 Argentinian pesos plus 15ARP entrance fee.

A visit to Tucker Islet is only possible by joining one of the weekly expedition cruises from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia onboard the Mare Australis or Via Australis. Prices for the 5 day/4 night cruise start at USD 1,150 per person.

To get there, you can join a Humpback Whale Watching tour that runs from December to April from/to Punta Arenas.The penguin colony has an estimated 20,000 members. This season’s prices for the 3 day/2 night all-inclusive tour is USD 900 per person.

17

Black Sheep

Cabo Froward.

The tip of the continent, so close you can touch it. days in any direction. The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely selfsupported trip can be called nothing less than extreme trekking.

To book your trek to the end of the world, visit erratic rock in Pto. Natales (www.erraticrock.com) or Aonikenk in Punta Arenas (www.aonikenk.com).

T

he Strait of Magellan, the channel, scene of countless shipwrecks, the oldest cemetery in Patagonia, historical bays... and never anyone else on the trail.

The bottom of Africa and the bottom of Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off again. Not the case for the bottom point of South America.

This journey is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses and willing to put themselves in a place where the word ‘selfreliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and two neck-high strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. There is no turning back, amigo.

The Cabo trek is really only possible from January-March. Other times of the year you’re likely to run into river problems, and in the winter you have to worry about frozen conditions.

If you have successfully trekked and camped the Torres del Paine ‘W’ circuit, then you might be ready for Cabo Froward. The trek is about the location itself, the bottom of the continent and the history. Plus, very few trekkers have ever been there.

The trek begins where the dirt road ends. Old deep forests of Nothofagus: huge coigues that seem never before seen or touched.

The views are incredible, not only of the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is impressive, reaching more than 7,000 feet, jutting straight out of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park. There is also a good chance of being saturated at least once a day.

The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple small ones.

The trail is not always clearly marked. Finding a reliable map is next to impossible. Trails are only marked by the few that try their luck reaching the bottom of the continent. This trail will become a section of the Sendero de Chile project, which aims to create roads and paths and ferries that span the length of Chile, eliminating the need to cross into Argentina. The project is expected to be completed in 2010.

The final goal is to reach the cross that overlooks the end of the American continent.

The view from the lookout provides a true sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the world you are. This trek isn’t for everyone.

There is no help or contact with the world for

2009 end of season

Cabo Shoestring Trips

As a special summer promotion, erratic rock® in Puerto Natales is posting special shoestring Cabo Froward programs for backpackers in Patagonia. For what they call “a getting back to our roots program.” These series of Cabo Froward trips will be open to the public. Program director Bill Penhollow explains, “We designed this series of Cabo trips for the backpackers who don’t normally use guides. Travelers that want to do something unique and who want to carry their own gear, who want to achieve the tip of the continent on their own, under their own power.

The problem is they just need someone to show them the way and they can’t afford typical high priced, guided luxury trips.”

The program runs weekly during the months of January, February and March and is six days in total. Trips include guide, food, one night in Punta Arenas and transportation from Punta Arenas to the trailhead and back. This is a self-sufficient program and each team member must carry all personal gear and equipment. Cabo Froward programs leave every Sunday from Puerto Natales and return to Punta Arenas on Fridays.

For more information about joining a Cabo Froward program contact erratic rock in Puerto Natales at 410355, www.erraticrock.com, or Aonikenk in Punta Arenas at 228332, www. aonikenk.com.

Reputation is everything.

In Patagonia, most likely all your camping will be at campsites, as camping offtrail is often illegal. Finding privacy may be difficult, so earplugs are a good option. If you do find yourself in a place with the opportunity to free-camp outside of the designated spots, camp on hard, durable surfaces, like rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Be sure you camp at least 50 meters away from any water sources, like lakes, rivers or streams.

Remember that good campsites are found, not made. It’s not necessary to alter a site.

If there is an existing fire ring at your campsite, DO NOT BUILD ANOTHER ONE. Campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Use a lightweight stove for cooking. For light, candle lanterns work great.

Leave nature the way you found it, so that others may enjoy it as well. This means that what you pack in, you also pack out. It means you dispose of waste properly, digging 6-8inch deep catholes at least 200 feet away from water, camp and trails. Pack out toilet paper and feminine hygiene products. DO NOT WASH DISHES IN YOUR WATER SOURCE. Collect water and carry it away from its source to do your washing, and use biodegradable soap.

When it’s time to break camp and move on, make sure you don’t forget anything.

Once the backpacks are packed and the tents are stowed, everyone should make a sweep of the camp, looking for anything left behind, like binoculars hanging in the tree or small trash, like a small ripped corner of a candy bar.

Check where the packs were and where the kitchen was. Don’t be afraid to pick up a piece of garbage that wasn’t yours.

Leave the campsite the way you would want to find it if you were camping there next. Replace any rocks or large, natural pieces of wood you might have moved. Then, ask yourself some questions. How can I reduce my impact? Was it obvious were the tent was?

Was vegetation crushed permanently, or will it pop up again easily. Is there any micro-trash left to be picked up? Did I create any new and unnecessary trails? Examining your camp before you leave it, is a great way to see how you can do it better next time.

Lake District & Patagonia

56-61 224819 56-9 8827569 www.adel.cl

Errazuriz 567 Punta Arenas, Chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 221130

erratic rock hostel punta arenas

Making and Breaking Camp

Bories No 655 / Punta Arenas

18

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Calafate, Argentina

Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital).

Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high.

The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets

questions & answers

How do the taxis (remises) work?

There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops.

Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?

Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics

What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include?

Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).

El Chaltén How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate?

By bus. It takes about 3.5 hours.

Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?

Not really. The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the evening bus to El Chaltén. in the high summer season.

What services are in El Chaltén?

There aren’t any banks, or places to change money.

n ar tí nM Sa ra l. rG do er ta

25 de Mayo Ezequiel Bustillo

1 de Mayo

9 de Julio

ne

ro

s

go

s

s Aire nos Bue alle 11 C

7 de Deciembre

Calle 15

Automovil C. Argentino Cacique Bigua

te alafa yo C Arro

C.L. Piedra Buena Comodoro Py Calle 17

Is it safe at night?

Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy.

Are there any cheap eating options?

Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price.

lle

Pio

Calle 43

e 12

Can I drink the tap water?

In Calafate, it has been reported that you cannot drink the tapwater, but people still do and they are generally fine.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people.

Ga

15 de Febrero

C. Tomás Espora

Who was Perito Moreno?

Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.

Where can I camp in El Calafate?

There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities. The best one is El Ovejero.

Rio

1

la

Call

Where is the information center in Calafate?

The information center is in the bus station.

st

lle

ua

Av. Juan D. Pe rón

How do I get to/from the Calafate airport?

By the airport shuttle, which costs around $26 ARS per person. By taxi it’s about $70 ARS.

Perioto Moreno

What’s the weather like in these parts?

It’s Patagonia. The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer.

Are there ice hikes on the glacier?

There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura.

They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice. To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip.

Bring your own lunch for the excursions. The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time!

Lo

Ca

Us h

José Pantin

Campaña del Desierto

What about Upsala? Can I visit that glacier?

For a while, the waterway to Upsala was blocked by massive icebergs, so you should check with the agencies in town to see if it is unblocked.

When are the stores open?

In Calafate, they’re open from around 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m.

Coronel Rosales

Julio A. Roca

What can I do in Calafate?

Visit the glaciers. Perito Moreno is the famous one.

And there is a full-day boat trip to visit five other glaciers in the area (Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis & Heim).

bags, as they have been outlawed in Calafate and Chaltén. Bring your own cloth bag or backpack.

Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries in a cardboard box.

Los Gauchos

How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales? It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities.

Calafate, Argentina ib

El Calafate

and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia.

The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.

Av .L

POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)

Lago Argentino

They’ve installed an ATM, but it usually doesn’t have cash, so it’s best to bring your pesos with you.

Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. If you’re in a pinch, you might be able to find a place to change USD or Euros, but they will not change their neighbor’s Chilean pesos.

How many people live in El Chaltén?

200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capitol and youngest city, founded in 1985.

Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén?

No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It’s up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the Park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all leave-no-trace principles.

Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/ Cerro Torre?

In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles.

What if I don’t have lodging reservations?

The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, may be able to help you.

How many days should I plan to spend hiking?

You need to stay at least one night. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto.

Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén?

In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I camp in El Chaltén?

In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs about ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. Outside of town, Camping Confluencia is free. Madsen, the former free camping near the entrance of the Fitz Roy Trail is closed indefinitely. There are also a few payfor campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers.

Will my cell phone work in Chaltén?

Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?

19

Black Sheep

A Field Guide to Getting Lost in El Chaltén

By Dawn Bell Day 3. Dawn at Laguna de los Tres.

Cerro Fitz Roy, 3,375 meters / 11,073 feet. The highest spire in the range of granite peaks of Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina.

I

t’s the typical Gringo Trail. Sometime before or after he ‘W’ in Torres del Paine, travelers head for Calafate to check out Perito Moreno Glacier, buy souvenir matés, and catch the bus to El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital. Many people end up day hiking for a couple of days, staying in hostels and enjoying big dinners in town. But it is possible to link a few of the hot spots and get yourself a multiday backpacking journey. Here’s an example of a four dayer--from Río Eléctrico to Lago Torre--which can easily be lengthened.

Getting Ready.

You’ll probably spend your first day getting to Chaltén (about 3.5 hours from Calafate), walking around the town’s recently paved and soonto-be paved roads, doing the final shop for your trek.

Chaltén is a growing town, but it still lacks reliable ATMs, money exchangers and places that accept credit cards. This, of course, is part of its charm. Though, it’s not so charming if you find yourself penniless with pockets outturned, washing dishes to pay for your dinner or lodging. The one cash machine in Chaltén is generally cashless, and if you do find a money exhange, don’t expect them to change Chilean pesos.

In stocking up for a 4-5 night trip, consider buying your grub in Calafate. The selection is larger and you might find it’s a tiny bit cheaper.

If you’re already in Chaltén and ready to do your shop, just skip La Anonima. It hardly has anything even though it appears to be the biggest market on the main drag. The other stores in town have a good selection of fresh produce and camping food (instant rice packages, cereal bars, oatmeal and just about any mini-item you’d want: packets of jam, butter, lemon juice, spices, you name it), though buying your goods in Chaltén can be a bit pricey. Make sure you carry your own bag or backpack for your shop, as Chaltén, like Calafate, has banned plastic bags. (Gotta love this place!) If you’re struggling, they’ll snicker and give you a cardboard box.

On your first night in Chaltén, you can stay in one of many hostels or at one of the pay-for campsites in town. These have bathrooms and hot water for showers. Camping Madsen, at the foot of the Fitz Roy trail is closed indefinitely and has been blacked out on the free maps they give you when you enter town. If you want to camp for free, you’ll have to stay at Confluencia on the opposite side of town and a bit further away from the main trailheads.

Day 1. To Piedra del Fraile.

Walk toward the end of town, and instead of heading for the Fitz Roy Trail, veer right, following the signs to El Pilar Hotel. From here you have two options: Hire a transfer to Río Eléctrico, which you

can arrange at the last kiosk in town (right across from the fork in the road heading to El Pilar), or hitch a ride. A lot of the vehicles that pass will be full rental cars or buses, so be patient and keep walking. Once you reach Río Electrico (a kilometer or two past El Pilar Hotel), you’ll take the Río Eléctrico trail for about two hours to reach camping Piedra del Fraile.

This is private property, so be prepared to pay $25 pesos to camp. Fraile is the only camping that you’ll pay for, and they have hot showers, sheltered cooking areas, and homecooked meals or beer for sale.

From Fraile, you have a couple of day hike opportunities: Paso del Cuadrado and Lago Eléctrico Glacier. Both are about three hours out. Ask the person who receives you at Piedra Fraile how to find the route to Paso del Cuadrado.They’ll likely say, “muy muy epinado,” meaning it’s steep as all hell, and you’ll have to scramble up the scree on all fours. It’s a one step forward, half a step back sort of trail, pretty much the entire way. But the views on a clear day are enough to knock the wind out of you, if the climb doesn’t.You’ll see Fitz Roy’s other face and the glacier from afar.

Day 2. Piedra del Fraile to Poincenot.

Today you have choices. If you want to take it easy and spend another day at this campsite (for another $25), plan on doing the other day hike to Lago Eléctrico, a bleak glacial lake. On the way to the glacier, you’ll hug the sheer slippery rocks, which drop into the lake itself, for a couple hours.

It is possible to start early in the morning, hike to Lago Eléctrico, return and eat a late breakfast or early lunch, pack up your gear and set off for Poincenot all in the same day. To reach Camping Poincenot, you’ll backtrack for about an hour on the Río Eléctrico route, where you’ll meet the juncture in the main trail. At this point, you can take an old abandoned trail, which is more direct, but rockier, unkempt and unmarked. It’s a bit tricky to find, so don’t worry if you miss it. You can head all the way back to El Pilar and take the main, well-marked trail from there.

Once you reach Poincenot, set up camp, eat and relax. You are well poised for a sunrise show at Fitz Roy. If you still have daylight and energy, head over to Piedras Blancas. The sign says it’ll take you about 30 minutes from camp, but allow for more time and plan on journeying all the way to Lago Piedras Blancas to enjoy close-up views of the glacier there.

It’s a fun jaunt, hopping from boulder to smooth boulder with the clear glacial water reflecting your leaps from below. (Note: If you don’t do this on day 2, you can enjoy this part of the trip on day 3 and maybe even spend an extra night in Poincenot after catching the crazy sunrise show on the Fitz Roy needles.)

Brace yourself for a stunning light show on the face of Cerro Fitz Roy and its range. Head out around 6 a.m. (check sunrise times in town before you go so you know when to leave) with a headlamp.

Hoof it about an hour to the viewpoint. It’s straight uphill and you’ll be sweating on the way up, so don’t overdress when you leave your tent at dawn. Bring plenty to keep you warm once you’ve stopped and are waiting for the sunshine to light up the granite faces at top. Bring your hat, gloves, extra jackets, maybe even your sleeping bag, and most definitely a thermos full of your favorite hot drink (or a stove to boil water).

Once you reach Fitz Roy’s main viewpoint, the hill slopes down and around to another hillock, with views of Laguna Sucia from above. Don’t miss out on this part of the trek. Laguna Sucia is one of the most mind-blowing blues you’ll ever see, guaranteed.

It’s also a good way to warm you up again while waiting for the sun’s rays to reach Fitz Roy. After the sunrise, head back to camp, gather up your gear and hike the Madre e Hija Trail to Camping de Agostini, where you’ll sleep alongside rushing Río Fitz Roy.

Alternatively, plan to take it easy and stay another night at Poincenot. It’s free after all, so if you don’t have time constraints, just kick back and enjoy.

You can still do a couple of mini-treks from Poincenot.

Walk to Piedras Blancas if you haven’t already. Or, on your way back from a stupendous sunrise, follow Río Blanco to your right (opposite direction from Piedras Blancas). This is not really a trail, but once you reach the river and before you cross the footbridge, trace the river’s edge until you reach the base of Laguna Sucia. From here, you’ll glimpse Sucia’s glacier from below and witness the explosions of icemelt cascade into the lake.The excursion will add about two hours to your morning.

If you’re pressed for time, head to De Agostini today. Once you arrive to De Agostini and set up camp, venture out to visit Lago Torre.You’ll see Cerro Torre from the trail on the way to De Agostini, but the view from the lake is more complete, with glacier and all. If you follow the sloped ridge on the right of the lake, you’ll see Glacier Torre up close, from above. It’s a lovely wind tunnel of a walk that takes about two hours there and back.

Day 4. Back to Chaltén.

From Agostini, enjoy a mostly flat and downhill stroll back to Chaltén, where you can shower at a hostel, catch your bus back to Calafate and your next adventure, or recoup for another day or two out on the trail. Lago Toro or Lago del Desierto are both good options with camping to extend your trip a bit. If you’re not ready to commit to more nights camping, settle for another long full day (about 8 hours) hike to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, with panoramic views of the entire valley, Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Glacier Viedma.

Environmental notes.

Fires are not allowed in the Park, so be sure you bring a stove and sufficient gas. Water is potable everywhere; it’s up to you to keep it that way. Don’t ever wash anything directly in any water sources.Pack it in, pack it out! Be sure to take all trash out with you.

Do not throw your garbage into the latrines!

Washing with dirt

Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat: the grease in meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. And we especially need it for energy while trekking.

A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use non-biodegradable products at all.

2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left-over grease on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue.

Impossible to remove without soap and hot water... or is it?

Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fistful of dirt and scrub! The small granules of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any of the tough-to-scrub food particles from your dishes. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap-free!

Did you know?

El Calafate passed a law in 2006 making the use of plastic bags in supermarkets and retail stores illegal. The powers that be in Calafate and Chaltén understood the environmental impact that plastic bags have. Not only are they made from petroleum/oil (as are most plastics), but plastic bags, which may only be used on the trip home from the market, take an astounding 5001,000 years to biodegrade.

On the level of tourism, Calafate and Chaltén are just being sensible: Bags+Wind=Visual Impact. If a retailer is caught using plastic bags, they can be fined or brought up on charges. So, when you’re shopping in either of these towns, remember to bring your own (cloth) bag or backpack to carry around your purchases.

Si tu destino es El Calafate, Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...

Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306 www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar

20

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Tres Torres

Climbing the South Tower.

Our adventure began on December 21, one day before my birthday. I had been dreaming of climing a first ascent and after Sebastian and I had succesfully climbed the South Tower of Paine.

So I was super excited to get started on this new project. I ran to my gear cash in Japanese Camp, and collected the 35 kilograms of equipment that I would need to put up my first primario ascencio.

The pack consisted of climbing equipment, stove, and bivi equipment. With enthusiasm I carried the gear to meet Sebastian in French Valley.

We spent one night at Italiano and on the following day, with improving weather, moved up to a cave camp just below the start of the route. We awoke at 3 a.m. to fire up our engines with black tea and oatmeal. To climb the route we had to aproach the tower by scrambling up 1,000 meters of slabs with some sections covered in verglas ice. At about 10 a.m., we reached the base of the vertical climbing.

Sebastian pointed out the crack system we wanted

By Walker Mackey

Por Sebastian Muñoz

to climb and without haste we were on the head wall.

In true alpine style, we swapped leads carrying only what we needed. In patagonia speed is safety, because you never can tell when the weather is going to change.We climbed light and fast through emaculate crack systems, on a windless day. We reached the summit of El Cuchillo at 2.30 p.m. on January 23. The route climbs at 5.10b and is called Anarquia Vertical. After only a few short minutes on the summit, we rappeled the vertical route and the slabs to reach our camp at 8 p.m.With smiles on our faces, we cooked our standard dinner of pasta, and we wolfed it down like animals.

That night we dreamt of summits. I had received the ultimate birthday present, a true adventure with a good friend. My time in Patagonia was all I had hoped for--pure, rich and real. May you all experience the adventure you’ve been craving during your stay here.

Habían transcurrido un par de minutos en la cumbre de la Torre Sur del Paine, cuando comenzamos nuestro rápido descenso a la profundidad del valle del silencio, “The Penguin nest” o El nido de los pingüinos; como habíamos denominado nuestro campamento base, significaba seguridad, significaba nuestra verdadera cumbre.

Al oeste, sobre el campo de hielo se divisaban esas inmensas columnas de nubes que indudablemente, no pronosticaban buen tiempo, talvez la tormenta estaría sobre nosotros en un par de horas o tal vez en minutos. En la arista norte de la torre sur soplaba un viento helado que nos desgastaba tanto física como sicológicamente. Aun así, éramos un solo ser; mi compañero la torre sur y yo.

Un sin numero de intensas emociones circulaban en mí, el delgado límite que separa la vida de la muerte se hacia cada vez mas evidente cuando uno de nuestros anclajes del cual descendíamos se rompió. Era tiempo para reflexionar y concentrarnos en el momento, no había tiempo para vacilaciones, debíamos decender rápido pero seguro. El agotamiento y el deseo de seguridad pueden significar el fin del sueño de toda una vida.

El camino a nuestro campamento base se hacia cada vez mas corto y las imágenes de la cumbre quedaban en la memoria como un gran interrogante, que aun sigue vivo en mi. En realidad estuvimos?

13 horas, entre subida y bajada significaba el final de un sueño( O el principio de muchos), la torre sur era ya parte del pasado, las tres torres hacían parte del pasado.

Stove power

While trying to pack light, take your fuel into consideration. A small pressurized canister of gas lasts 3-4 hours, depending on the stove.That amounts to 2.5 canisters for a 5-day trek (the W in Torres del Paine for example) and 5 canisters for a 10-day route. The pressurized gas canisters mix propane and butane. Propane works better at low altitude, and butane works better higher up, so a canister is made to be able to travel up and and down with little thought. The pressurized cans are not reusable, but they can be punctured and recycled with steel.

White gas must be manually pressurized, so as your altitude changes, the way you manage the stove changes. White gas stoves run a higher risk of accidents, fires and explosions, but they are pretty efficient.

Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel...

1. Don´t over-boil your water, it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you are ready to start a boil is also only heating the fresh air.

2. Put a lid on your pot. It holds the heat in and makes for a faster boil.

3. Use a wind screen. Wind carries heat out from under your pot and redirects it from your food. A wind shield aims the heat up and under your pot. If you don´t have an aluminum wind screen, rocks from your campsite will also help protect the heat.

4. if your canister of gas is almost gone and puddering out, dip it in some cold water. The slight tempature change will bring it back to life and it will burn hard until it really runs out.

• • •

Walker Mackey (USA) – Sebastian Muñoz (Colombia). 12 de enero 2009.Torre sur. Arista Norte Vía Aste.

Rodrigo Zapata (Chile) – Sebastian Muñoz.

13 de Marzo 2008.Torre Norte. Monzino Steve Schneider (USA) – Heather Baer (USA) – Sebastian Muñoz. 28 de Enero 2008.Torre Central. Bonigton Williams.

How to Find Your Good

Weather Window

Casa Condell

By Lori Butz

A clean, quiet & centrally located hostel.

Av. CONDELL 114, PROVIDENCIA, SANTIAGO, Chile

max@casacondell.com • www.casacondell.com • 56-2 7178592 / 2092343

Santiago

www.andeshostel.com (56-2) 632 9990 - 632 9173

The most trusted and reliable weather prediction comes from NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmosferic Administration). Climbers have gotten hip to checking the forecast here with a good amount of success. Knowing when the possible good weather windows will occur is invaluable in helping a climbing team be in the right place at the right time. So, here’s the scoop...

1. Visit http://www.arl.noaa.gov/ready.php 2. Bookmark this page on your computer (or your hostel’s computer) or commit it to memory. You can always search for NOAA if you forget. The subpage of NOAA you want is the Air Resources Laboratory (ARL), and the ARL page you want is called READY, which stands for Real-time Environmental Applications and Display sYstem.

3. From here, enter the latitude and longitude coordinates (Be sure to add the negative sign before the number.)

4. For Torres del Paine: Latitude is -50,9 and longitude is -72,95.

5. For El Chaltén: Latitude is -49,3 and longitude is -73,1.

6. On the next page, look for the Meteogram.

Go to the pull-down menu and pick one of three options for the graph display.The middle option, 6-hour intervals for 8 days, is probably the most useful.

7. On the next page, change the options to “Default with winds” and “speed+direction.”

Then scroll down to the botton of the page and type in the access code. Select “get meteorogram.” Voila!

Now you can see precipitation, wind velocity and direction, temperature, dew point, and--the the obsession of climbers--barometric pressure. Important note: The times given on the graph are GMT. So you have to subtract 3-4 hours for local Patagonian time depending on the season and location.

So, there you have it, the most accurate prognostic for Patagonia. But, remember, this is Patagonia, so the weather forecast changes constantly and even NOAA isn’t very accurate more than four days out. The old-school way of poking your head out the tent and scoping out the sky at 2 a.m. to check the weather will probably give you the best information.

21

Black Sheep

Treehuggers’ Guide to R-Rated Trekking

By Heather Poyhonen later that night, choose your campsite wisely. In places like Torres del Paine, it’s virtually impossible to camp far away from others at some sites. You might try to plan your entire trip around camping areas with less traffic, such as Carretas and Britanico. Once you’ve chosen where to pitch your tent, you likely still have a couple hours of work ahead of you.

This is the moment of truth and often where trail/camp stresses come to a head. Maybe it’s the weather or missing tent stakes or finding out that you’ve run out of fuel before the end of your trip. Or maybe it’s just a matter of one person being more seasoned in the backcountry than the other. In any case, it’s important to stay nice.

Blaming your partner for not bringing a piece of “necessary” equipment isn’t going to abracadabra Love nest at night. it into existence. Be encouraging, respectful and loving toward one another. If one person is really tired and the other not so much, give your knackered sweetheart the gift of rest. Let that person lay out the beds, change clothes, do a bit of grooming and re-energize for that evening. It’s up to the more experienced backpacker to include their mate in the goings on at camp. By the end of the trip, your experience levels should start to level out.

For mealtime, be creative. Cooking outdoors doesn’t mean eating dehydrated rice or pasta meals every day. At the very least, use some fresh ingredients in your pastas. Carrots, bell peppers, onions and fresh herbs, especially parsley, last a little longer than tomatoes or avocado. But by all means, if your pack and your back can handle it, bring some extra fresh goodies with you on your trip. Incorporate quinoa or couscous to change up your main dishes.

Consider planning your meals around aphrodisiacs to help boost your sexual power.These foods include licorice, asparagus, almond, garlic, fresh ginger, sweet basil, strawberries, pineapple, honey, dark chocolate and, of course, oysters.

Starting with a simple appetizer while you’re sauteeing fresh veggies or boiling water will curb your hunger and reanimate you while you await your main dish. Try preparing a fresh aphrodisiac pesto before you head into the woods. You can use it as pasta sauce or a tasty spread, and it lasts for days.

Anything you slab on crackers or tortillas will sate that grumbling belly, so you can savor dinner a bit more. Eat side by side and watch the sunset or listen to water lap at the lake’s edge.

Wine complements any romantic dinner, but carrying a glass bottle is cumbersome and takes up a lot of space, even after it’s empty. Luckily you can get boxed wine around these parts. Otherwise, a snort of whiskey in your after-dinner cocoa will surely relax achy muscles. Candlelight would be another romantic touch, but since fire is illegal in most national parks and the windy conditions in Patagonia make fire all the more hazardous, you’ll have to find another means of soft light. A little insence outside the tent can help set the mood. Plus, it works as a mild bug repellant.

Before you zip up your mummy bag and call it a night, wake up your inner porn star. This might be difficult if you’re tired, sore or smelly after a long day of hiking or paddling. First thing is to feel sexy. This means that you’ve brushed your teeth and that you don’t stink. If you’re staying somewhere with shower facilities, this is easy. But there are still ways to wash up even if you are roughing it. You’re likely already using biodegradable soap, but that does NOT mean that you can wash yourself with soap directly in rivers, lakes or streams. All suds should be dumped several meters away from any water sources.

Turn washing up into a sexy prequel.

Heat some extra water after dinner, grab a washcloth and some soap, and lather each other up. Keep a towel handy to dry off before you catch a chill. Lay the towel down across the top of your sleeping bags, where you expect your hips to be. (This will save work in the clean up phase, giving you more time to bask in each others’ afterglow.)

If you’re shivering, use your Nalgene as a hot-water bottle by filling it with the leftover washwater. Naked body heat (not layers of clothes!) is the best way to warm you--and your partner--up so get ready to hug. What happens the rest of the night is up to you. But here’s a tiny list of possible romantic camping extras: massage lotion or oil; wet wipes for pre- and post-coital freshness; condoms (even if you don’t normally use them with your partner, they help minimize tent mess); bullet minivibrator; sexy underwear; cards (for rainy day strip poker); cinnamon candy or gum (cinnamon is also an aphrodisiac), peppermint tea (for fresh breath, plus it adds zing when applied to sensitive areas); any surprise that your partner might appreciate. Enjoy the backcountry!

See if you can say, “Pass me the water...” in eye language.

Body heat has nothing to do with global warming

T

rekking or paddling with your sweetheart will either lighten or heighten the challenging conditions in Patagonia. When traveling with a parnter, you end up spending a lot of time with each other, maybe getting on each other’s nerves or spreading your soggy moods. But remember you’re supposed to be having fun and enjoying each other. The changeable and typically foul weather in Patagonia can lure out the whiner in the best of us.

The trick is to be prepared for anything (gear-wise and mood-wise), and accept what comes your way, instead of struggle against it. Nights camping in the Patagonian wilds can be chilly or freezing. Expect days to be filled with erratic weather, tromping through the mud, fighting the wind, soaking up the rain--or rays--if you’re lucky. Don’t let inclement weather damp your entire trip. Keep a good attitude; smile and laugh. You’ll have more fun, and so will your partner.

Instead of getting upset by the weather, get frisky with your partner. Rain is great for sensual wet kisses, so use it to your advantage. To make your trail time is as stress-free as possible, make sure you have a set of dry/nighttime clothes for camp, so no matter how wet your hiking/day clothes are, you can still warm up when you stop trekking for the day.

Waterproof your pack from the inside with a hefty garbage bag. Knowing your sleeping bag and camp clothes are dry will give you the peace of mind you need to take more kissing breaks.

Let the wind rekindle your wild side. The wind here can pick you up and knock you off the trail. It makes it hard to breathe and hard to see. If you’re paddling forward, it might just be pushing you backward. You might have to fight against the wind to progress, but don’t get grumpy toward it.

Accept it, growl at it, get in touch with the erotic force of nature. Gales, erotic? Sure. Why not? The adrenaline, giddiness, then eventual exhaustion that the wind makes you feel mimics lovemaking. Use your imagination.

So, yeah, imagination is the key to unlock love’s door. And there’s no better place than the great outdoors. In nature, you’re away from the worries of home, the modern-day habits of computer, TV and phone. Couples hiking, kayaking and camping

together have all day to flirt and seduce each other.

Breakfast and trekking/paddling, setting up camp and cooking dinner all become part of foreplay, or at least a road toward intimacy. Holding hands randomly on the trail (when it’s wide enough to do so) is a quick and simple way to show your partner affection. If holding hands isn’t your thing or just isn’t possible, touch your partner elsewhere. Touch keeps the energy between you vibrating.

During snack breaks, try sensually feeding your partner grapes or another fruit. On the first day out, when delicate fruits are still scrumptious, slice up a juicy peach, put one of the spears in your mouth and offer up the other half to your beloved. Don’t be afraid to get messy. You’ll have a chance to clean up later if your partner doesn’t do it first. Continue these mouth-to-mouth fruit frenzies with apples, bananas or clementines once you’ve savored your juicier fruit stash.

On the trail, it’s common to fall into a rhythmic march, which is fine. It’s nice to enjoy the quiet, but every once in a while, break the silence.

You’re here to share with one another. If you see an exotic bird or beautiful orchid, share it with your partner. Communication in relationships is always important, but remember to use more than just your mouth. Gestures and touch do a fair bit of speaking.

But you can also say so much with your eyes, even more than what words can express. So whenever it’s appropriate, dive into eye contact. See if you can say, “Pass me the water,” in eye language.

Backpacking is also a great time to dream together or recount how you first met. Couples in new relationships get to know one another better, and couples who have been together for a while can stoke the flames. However, remember to leave your problems at home. Trail stresses are a very real part of trekking together, but this is not the time to bicker.

Explore your fantasies instead. What do you want to do to one another tonight? This is the perfect time to open up, take a deep breath and talk dirty. Go into detail. It’s not unheard of for couples to indulge in a midday romp against a Lenga tree or boulder, with fresh air and birdsong. (Just be sure to step off the trail so as not to deflower innocent passers-by.)

If you plan on driving in your tent stake

sex in a tent

For those who travel and trek with their significant other, it’s not necessary to leave the romance at home. A romp in the tent can be a great part of your vacation. The fresh air and natural sounds of the outdoors can be a real turn on. So here are a few things to think about...

Privacy. If planning to turn your tent into a love nest, make sure you to find the right place to set it up. Getting vocal in a crowded area might not go over well.

No one wants to corrupt little children or disrupt a family dinner, so keeping it quiet is important. Thin tent walls do nothing to block noise. Use a sleeve of your down jacket or a corner of your sleeping bag to cover or put in your mouth if you need to.

Logistics. Layers of clothing and two seperate, fitted sleeping bags can be hurdles in the construction of the love nest.

If traveling as a couple, buying sleeping bags that zip together are great for creating a singular bed, but they are not so hot as lightweight ‘next level’ gear. Balance and freedom of movement are important.

Restrictive clothing should be removed to make controlled tent moves easier.

Keep it simple. This is also not the time to get acrobatic or try out your repertoire of Kama Sutra. Keep movements small and controlled. Avoid flailing arms and legs. This could draw attention to your activities and might bring down the tent.

Clean up. Even if you and your partner don’t usually use condoms, they are a great way to avoid messy clean up, for everyone. Handy-wipes are always helpful in these situations, but you need to remember to pack them in advance.

22

Patagonia’s Travel Newspaper

Reservations: 56 61 710219 • asz@soloexpediciones.com

Penguin Experts

www.soloexpediciones.com

5%

off tours to Magdalena & Marta Islands!

Jose Nogueira 1255, Punta Arenas, Chile

10% off Lago del Desierto 480 • El Chaltén, Argentina Ph. (00-54) 0292 - 493276 • www.inlandsis.com.ar

Cabañas del Paine Hotel

5% discount on lodging with coupon Ph 56 61 243354 • reservas@cabanasdelpaine.cl

PTO. NATALES

5% discount on with coupon

In-land-sis posada patagónica

PTO. NATALES

www.estanciariodelciervos.com

EL CHALTÉN

Río de Los Ciervos Estancia

PUNTA ARENAS

PUNTA ARENAS

PUNTA ARENAS

Patagonia Coupons Mandala Andino 10% cash discount on artesania & jewelry Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile • Ph (56 61) 414143

AQUANATIVA 10% off kayaking programs Ph 56 61 412239 • Bulnes 299, Pto. Natales

Break in Your Boots on the World’s Longest Trek

By Pilar Irribarra

trail etiquette

Most people head out into the wilderness in hopes of escaping the hoards.

Try to leave as little a trace as possible: This goes for visual impact (packing out what you pack in, never littering trash or toilet paper, etc.), but also for sound impact. Keep your personal noise pollution in check. Trail chat can be great, but there is no need to scream (this goes for camp too).

Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, or take a nap, try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass by without even knowing you’re there. That way everyone holds on to their sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience.

Share the trail, and remember your yield rules. Bikes aren’t allowed on most national park trails, but cyclists are supposed to yield to equestrians and hikers. Hikers yield to equestrians. Downhill traffic yields to uphill traffic. When in doubt, give the other user the right of way. If you hear someone come up behind you, please let them pass. If the trail is skinny, continue walking until the nearest pullout, and then step aside.

While trekking in a group, try to spread out by 20 full paces to avoid collisions if you come head on with another group. Spread out and look around at the views. No need to stare at the backside of the person in front of you all the time.

Stick to the trails. Stepping offtrail to avoid a muddy patch or puddle only widens the trail or creates a second and sometimes third trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. Remember, boots are meant to get dirty, so don’t be afraid to slosh about a little.

Trekking at dawn

The Sendero de Chile is a huge project that aims to link the natural, cultural, ethnic, and scenic variety of the country. By 2010, it will be the longest trail in the world at 8,500 kilometers.

This path will unite the most barren desert in the world (Atacama) with the rest of Chile’s varied landscapes: its plateaus, central valleys, cities, national parks, forests, lakes, volcanoes, pampas, and glaciers.

There will even be trails allowing people to easily explore the main island ecosystems, with paths in Isla de Pascua, Archipielago de Juan Fernández, and Isla Grande de Chiloé.

Currently, Sendero de Chile has 35 treks that form this amazing route with more than 1,200 kilometers throughout the country. In the Magallanes region, three trails exist: Isla Navarino in Cabo de

Hornos, Reserva Nacional de Magallanes, and Ruta Patrimonial Milodón (just a few kilometers outside Puerto Natales).

Ruta Patrimonial Milodón

This trail begins 20 kilometers to the north of the Milodón cave, at the New Road to Torres del Paine Nataional Park, Lago Porteño road.

The trail is 60 centimeters wide and 42 kilometers in length, beginning at the foot of the Cerro Tenerife.

It’s a fairly easy walk with magnificent views of the landscape, the Paine Grande Massif, and three nearby lakes: Porteño, Maravilla, and Toro. On a clear day, you’ll catch glimpses of glaciers Tyndall and Grey as well as part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.

The journey ends at Río Serrano, next to Torres del Paine Administration.

El Barroso

Walking this entire path takes three to four days, with camping at Río Ventisquero, El Salto, and Río Serrano. On the trail, you’ll get to know the environmental characteristics of the region and how the Patagonian climate has left a strong footprint.

You’ll traverse forests of native lengas, coigues, ñirres, ciruelillos, and calafate. You’ll also get a chance to view all kinds of birdlife, including condors, eagles, and austral parakeets, as well as other fauna, like foxes, bobcats, huemul, and maybe even puma.

When you finish up the trail in Río Serrano, you can make a descent by zodiac through Río Serrano, stopping to visit Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers, then continue by boat to Puerto Natales. Or just continue your hike in Torres del Paine National Park.

Good People, Handmade Organic Food and Real Coffee

Fresia 135a Pucon, Chile Wood Fire Grilled Steaks Chilean Wines

organic food, wine and real italian coffee Corner of O’Higgins & Fresia, Pucón • trawen@gmail.com

23

Black Sheep

Climbing the North Tower of Paine Dave Turner bio

Californian Dave Turner, 27, is known for his firstascent solo climbs up El Capitán in Yosemite, California.

In January 2008, Dave summited Escudo in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile, making him the first person to complete a continuous solo route up a Grade VII ever. He climbs alpine style using no fixed ropes, which he says is “more dangerous, more difficult and more work. But it’s a bit faster, more efficient, and a better style.”

When Dave is not climbing his own projects, he works as a guide taking people on their dream summits. He splits his time between the big walls of Yosemite and Patagonia and elsewhere in the world--wherever there’s something steep, remote and difficult.

Climbing Helmet: This energy absorbing foam-shell helmet is mandatory if you want to keep your dome safe and sound.

Torres del Paine climbing permits, pg 6

Locking Carabiners: Two to three locking carabiners should be on your rack of gear to use on your belay anchors.

Some of the richest experiences of my life have come from climbing in Patagonia. True, it is more difficult to climb here due to the adverse weather and difficult peaks, but it is far more obtainable to make one of your dream summits than some might think. An ascent of the North Tower is in the realm of possibility for most intermediate level climbers.You are just gonna have to suck it up, go out there and get it done.

Aside from basic traditional climbing skills, a willingness to suffer through some bad weather and a few weeks in Patagonia; you will also need your basic climbing gear set-up to get you up the climb. Climbing the standard Monzino route will take you the better part of a day, but most have to wait a few days to a few weeks to find the chance to summit because of the typically poor weather in Southern Patagonia. The route is about 400 meters in length, and goes all free at 5.10-.

Below is a quick breakdown of the basic gear items you will need to make your way up one of the gems of Torres del Paine National Park--the North Tower.

Double length runner: These are useful to set up and equalize belay anchors.

By Dave Turner

North Tower History

The North Tower is found deep in the heart of Torres del Paine National Park, and it measures 2,260 meters high. It was first climbed by Italian climber Guido Monzino in 1958. Monzino was also the first Italian climber to summit Mt. Everest in 1973. The North Tower is one of the three towers in the immediate area: the Cental Tower which stands 2,460 meters tall; and the South Tower which rises to 2,500 meters.

Set of Stoppers: These ‘nuts’ are used for protection against falls by placing them into constrictions in the rock, and then clipping your lead rope into them.

Runners w/ `biners: These extendable runners help with rope drag by extending and allowing the rope to pass through with less drag on sections of the climb that wander around.

Climbing Shoes: Special flat-soled rubber shoes, made with super sticky climbing rubber to grip the rock.

Nut tool: This special little device is necessary to remove stoppers that are wedged tightly into the rock.

Climbing Harness: A lightweight model is ideal for climbing in Patagonia. Make sure it fits well and is comfortable to use.

Belay Device: First off, don’t drop this!

This device is used to belay your partner and for rapelling--pretty necessary to get up and down the rock!

Dynamic Lead Rope: Ranging from 9.2mm to 10.5mm, the rope is your link to the rock and your partner.

Make sure your rope is dry treated if you want to climb in Patagonia.

Camalots (or `Friends`): Expandable camming units that lock themselves tightly into the rock to use as lead protection and anchors.

For more information regarding a guided ascent of the North Tower, contact Dave Turner at elcapbum@yahoo.com

Black Sheep

24

Life’s Hard. Game On. erratic rock rental center

tents • sleeping systems • rain gear • climbing equipment • trekking poles • cooking kits • snow shoes

www.erraticrock.com

q ba

an ued

o 719 • ph 56 61 41 035 5

erratic rock base *camp patagonia, chile

www.erratic rock.com