Torres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino www.patagoniablacksheep.com
FREE
Black Volume 2 • Issue 5 • Feb 2007 • patagoniablacksheep.com cover image by Anthony Riggs ©
Organizing Travels in Patagonia
Sheep
Antarctica and the Environment
•Torres del Paine Tips
•Banff Film Festival in Puerto Natales •Recycling in Patagonia •2nd Annual Big Rock Festival
RECYCLE THIS PAPER - PASS IT ON! ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE
Choosing my battle
We had a lot of
Letter from the Editor -Rustyn Mesdag
going so far as to change a bad habit.
observed treaties, The Antarctic Treaty.
fully on Antarctica from the beginning.
fun putting this months
I have chosen one of many bad habits I have in
The Antarctica Treaty was signed in Decem-
There has never been an act of war on the white
Black Sheep together. We
my life that directly contradicts my enviromen-
ber of 1959 by twelve countries; Argentina,
continent (and there is no debate that war is not
like putting together the
tal beliefs. Yet I overlook some of these things
Australia, Belguim, Chile, France, Japan, New
exactly a friend to the environment). This treaty
annual environmental issue
in my head, when it suits me. Does this happens
Zealand, Norway, Russia, South Africa, UK,
shows what can be accomplished when we
because it gets our blood
to everyone? I think yes.
and the USA. The treaty really went into effect
simply choose to do the right thing.
pumping a bit. It’s the one thing that we feel
The truth is that I should be just able to hang
in June of 1961. Since that time, 33 other coun-
Nobody is here in Patagonia by accedent. We all
so strongly about that we will often get on our
my keys for all the right reasons, like for the
tries have acceded, including: Poland, Germany,
came here for adventure, freedom, knowledge,
soapbox and pick a fight. Personally speaking,
enviroment, but this way I have a more tangible
Brazil, India, China, Uruguay, Italy, Spain,
and for the spectacular, untouched
my weakness (for claiming to be such an enviro-
punishment if I faulter. This challenge keeps
Sweden, Finland, Korea, Peru, Ecuador, The
environment. This issue of the Black Sheep
mentalist) ...is my truck, ‘Crush’. (Yes, the truck
my commitment fresh. Unfortunately when
Netherlands, Bulgaria and Ukraine. The basic
represents all of these things that you and I hold
has a name.) I’m a hipocrate really. I’ve always
dealing with environmental issues, our lack of
idea behind the treaty was to keep Antarctica
important and get excited about. We are all
had a interest in old cars. I love driving. I drive
committment doesn’t affect us directly yet. Kind
a war free zone. Article I of the original treaty
part of a new, smaller world. It’s time to stand
a lot more then I really need to. And now that I
of a ‘out of sight, out of mind’ thing. When we
states, “Antarctica shall be used for peaceful
up and give back. It’s time to ‘paint with bold
live in Patagonia, I bought myself the coolest,
choose to drive less or recycle a can, we don’t
purposes only. There shall be prohibited... any
strokes’ -enviromentally speaking. Not to put to
oldest, crappiest little Land Rover. A gas
see any huge difference in our daily lives (other
measure of a military nature...” To date, there
fine of a point on it, but it’s time to get our shit
guzzler, really. Not exactly eco-friendly
then less garbage on garbage day), but globally,
has never been a treaty more adhered to by its
together.
transportation. And because it is environmental
with everyone doing their share, there is a real
signers. Scientific research has continued peace-
month, Bill, my friend and business partner,
impact that can be made. So, this month if
called me out on it and told me to put my money
you ever see me driving my truck, you win
where my mouth is. Give up the truck for the
yourself a chance to shave my head... a deal is
month... or shave off my dreads. Truth is truth, I
a deal and I’ll sport the nice republican look
know right from wrong, enviromentally speak-
that my father always hoped for!
Trail Tips...
Trail Etiquette
On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience.
ing, and he was right. The other reason we enjoyed this months’ So, I’ve got my month challenge ahead of me.
issue was because of Antarctica. The link
No driving Feb 1st - Feb 28th or I’ll shave off
between the environment and Antarctica is
my dread locks. The whole thing is an inspiring
more direct then most people think. The state
idea really. So now I put it to you. We all pick
of Antarctica is a clear picture of our environ-
our battles, so pick one this month. Take one for
mental habits as residents of this small planet.
the team. So get fired up and go out of your way
Antarctica is one of the true representatives of
to do something that takes effort, maybe even
the state of our world and holds history’s most
www.patagoniablacksheep.com Published by Southern Cross Ltda. The Black Sheep Organizing Chilean Patagonia Patagonia, Chile ph +56•61•415749
The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile. A warm, woolly thanks goes out to all black sheep who helped make this paper possible. The opinions within the Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of some of the advertisers. But we do it for the fans, not the critics.
Production Editor • Design: Rustyn Mesdag Business Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar Irribarra Contributers: Diego Araya, Marjan Alkema Brian Wiley Consultant: Bill Penhollow
PUERTO NATALES BARROS ARANA 299 FONO: 413622 www.patagoniablacksheep.com
While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy
packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time. Sticking to the trails is important. Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or a puddle only widens the trail or creates a second, or sometimes third, trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Torres del Paine or on the Dientes Circuit (Patagonia). Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.
New Northern Patagonia National Park Valle Chacabuco Patagonia National Park will be located in Chile’s Valle Chacabuco mostly centered on a 70,000 hectare farm that was purchased by Conservación Patagonica. Doug Tompkins, a multi-millionaire from the clothing industry, and his wife Kristine are ardent conservationists that have acquired 800,000+ hectares through their Conservation Land Trust. Kristine Tompkins developed the Land Trust Conservación Patagonica to purchase lands in Patagonia that will be restored, developed and absorbed into the current string of national parks that have been created and sustained by these land trusts. The overall plan of purchasing and protecting these lands involves revitalizing overgrazed and damaged landscape that results from the practice of unsustainable ranching. Patagonia
PUNTA ARENAS
ERRAZURIZ 891 FONO: 240214
National Park’s location protects areas from the Andean foothills, through the Chacabuco Valley’s grasslands and westward to Rio Baker. This region will provide an area for huemul deer, herds of guanaco, and the puma to roam and populate. One of the many steps upon purchase is the removal of livestock and its fencing, cleanup of former ranches and eradication of non-native plant species. A master conservation and restoration plan, run by a wildlife manager, includes construction of park infrastructure is also put into place. Patagonia National Park will showcase a healthy and intact ecosystem that has been restored through ambitious planning by ecologists who believe in their mission.
Camping Equipment • Sport Fishing • Fly Fishing • Hunting Gear • Fleece Jackets • Parkas • Thermals • Tents • Sleeping Bags • Backpacks • Boots & Tennis shoes • Climbing Equipment • and more...
Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine Questions & Answers What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 - 2.5 hrs. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 - 8am. There is also a 2pm bus. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do, it depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3,500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas.
At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am. What about midday? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, exept for the supermarkets. Where can I buy camping food in town? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located 1 block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes. How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? In summer, not freezing, but it can still get close sometimes. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person, one way, 17.000 round trip. Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios. Can I cook in the refugios? In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities.
Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits). How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter. Are there backpackers here in winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast. What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.
Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea
Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories
Puerto Natales, Chile
i lip
hi A. Prat
Eberhard
$
.P
Magallanes
B. Arana
Bories
B
T. Rogers
Señoret
Valdivia
V v$ $
M. Bulnes
H
Chorrillos
v
B. Zamora
v
Galvarino
February 2007
v
E. Ramirez
Yungay
Baquedano
Miraflores
Esmeralda
B. Encalada
C. Pinto
O’Higgins Magallanes
P. Montt
Ladrilleros
NAVIMAG
$
Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ideas when possible, but there is a lot of Patagonia out there that has no public buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town. Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone wobbles right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town. Why do I get given a piece of little receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously. Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you. Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang. Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from TdP? No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know.
Need More?
A free information talk is given at Erratic Rock everyday at 10:30am & 3pm. Information about the Park, logistics, food prep, programs, clothing and any questions you might have. Need a trekking partner? The 3 o’clock talk is a great place to meet other solo trekkers! Bring pen & paper, sit with some real coffee and figure out what you need & who’s going where.
Torres del Paine Bus Schedules
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Trail Tips...
Via Paine / Andescape - Eberhard 599 - Ph 412877
Nalgene Bottles
Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
If you’re not sure what a Nalgene bottle is, just find yourself a Yank, they will probably have one. These Lexan bottles are quickly becoming industry standard for trekkers and climbers. They are bullet proof, won´t leak and are guaranteed for life. These little bottles are a must while trekking. The large mouth-type makes for easier filling at a water source and for harvesting snow in an alpine environment, but a little more difficult to drink out of while walking. Here are a few good tricks... 1. While making your nightly boil for dinner on the trail, boil an extra liter to make your Nalgene a great hot water bottle for your sleeping bag. This will raise the average temperature of your bag and will do wonders for sore trekking feet. Throw your wet socks or gloves down there with the hot water bottle and it will dry everything like a oven in your sleeping bag. 2. Want eggs on the trail? Break a few eggs into a Nalgene for omelettes on that first morning out. This is a mess-free way of creating a breakfast upgrade. 3. Using a large mouth Nalgene to carry and protect dry & powdered goods is another great use. Whether it’s oatmeal or powdered soup mix for the long haul, a Nalgene can give you a hard, waterproof case.
Trip 1 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales Trip 1
Trip 2
7.30
14.00
Trip 2 Administration
13.00
18.00
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Gomez -Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales
7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.15
Laguna Amarga
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Natales - Torres del Paine
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Andescape 7.30 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Ph 412877
Torres del Paine
Puerto Natales
TEMPORADA 2006-2007- Regular Schedule Pudeto Pehoe
November 1 to March 15, 2007
09:30am
10:30pm
12:00pm
12:30pm
March 16 to 31, 2006
18:00pm 12:00pm
18:30pm 12:30pm
April 2007
18:00pm 12:00pm
18:30pm 12:30pm
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
9.45
12.30
$25.00 $7.00 $7.50 $13.00 $3.50
Administration
13.00 14.30
16.30
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
Administration
11.45
18.00
14.00 13.30
(Administration) Puerto Natales 17.00
17.30
13.45 19.30
18.30 19.00 20.00 22.00
13.45
215.00 hrs 30 3 hrs 15 314.00 hrs 45 13.00
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez Ph 411111 E. Ramírez 399
Buses Fernandez Ph. 242313 Arm. Sanhueza 745
Bus Sur Ph 411859 Baquedano 668
7.15 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 7.30 10.00 13.30 18.00 7.00 15.00
Bus Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900 Bus Sur Ph. 244464 José Menéndez 552
8.00 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 8.30 14.00 18.30 19.30 15.00 19.00
These prices are reflected in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.
albergue@lastorres.com
+56-61 360360
Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
$8.00 $12.00 $14.00 $63.00
13.00
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos
+56-61 412592 Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
14.00
Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (Administration) (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park) JB Calafate (Laguna Amarga) El 57.30 hrs TDP L. Amarga Ph 412824 Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto (Pudeto) Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin (Administration)
Torres del Paine Refugio Information $8.50 $13.00 $15.00 $59.00
10.30
(Pudeto)
A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
7.30
Pudeto
Bus Pacheco Ph 414513 Baquedano 500
andescape@terra.cl
15.00
Gomez Amarga) 15.00to all the Remember: Hostería7.30 Las Torres operates(Laguna a transfer that connects Ph 415700 buses that arrive at and leave from Laguna Amarga (cost is $2 USD).
One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed) Round trip ticket $17.000 per person No trips on 1/01/2007 Los arrieros 1517. Puerto Natales. Phone 61-411380. Mail: maclean@entelchile.net
Andescape - Dickson, Lago Grey
(Laguna Amarga)
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
(Pudeto) Pudeto
Laguna Amarga
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS
Torres del Paine - Natales
Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain Lodge loreto.c@verticepatagonia.cl
$33.00 $7.00 $7.00 $11.00 $3.00
Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
$9.00 $12.00 $15.00 $63.00
+56-61 412742
Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
$35.00 $7.00 $9.00 $14.00 $3.00
What & Where is Cabo Froward? The Strait of Magellan, the channel, scene of countless shipwrecks, the oldest cemetery in Patagonia, historical bays and we have never seen anyone else on the trail. The bottom of Africa and the bottom of Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off. Not the case for the bottom point of South America. This journey is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses and willing to put themselves in a place where the words ‘self reliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and two neck-high river crossings carrying your pack over your head. There is no going back, mi amigo. The trek begins where the dirt road ends. Old deep forests of Nothofagus: huge coigues that seem never before seen or touched. The views are incredible, not only the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is impressive, reaching more than 7,000 feet after rising out of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park. There is also a good chance of being saturated at least once a day. The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple small ones. The trail is not always clearly marked.
Finding a reliable map is next to impossible. Trails are only marked by the few that try their luck reaching the bottom of the continent. This is what will be a section of the Sendero de Chile project, which aims to create roads and paths and ferries that span the length of Chile, eliminating the need to cross into Argentina. This project is expected to be completed in 2010.
NIKO’S II A D V E N T U R E
Lodging
*Rooms with private & shared bathrooms *Cooking Facilities *Laundry Service *Free Bag Storage *English Information *Rental Equipment *Half Block from Main Square *Daily Buses to Torres del Paine *Argentine Excursion Destinations and more...
The final goal is to reach the crucifix that overlooks the end of the American continent. The view from the lookout provides a true sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the world you are. This trek is not for everyone. There is no help, or contact with the world for days in any direction. The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely self supported trip can be called nothing less then extreme trekking. The trek is only really possible January - March. Other times of the year you will possibly run into river problems. Deep winter makes for frozen conditions. This route boasts two large, cold, strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. If you have successfully trekked and camped the Torres del Paine ‘W’ circuit, then you might be ready for Cabo Froward. This trek is about the location itself, the bottom of the continent and the history. Very few trekkers have ever been to Cabo Froward.
www.nikostwoadventure.com Phillipi 528 - Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 413543
FESTIVAL DE CINE DE MONTAÑA CHILE 2007
BANFF
Cabo Shoestring Trips 2007 As a special summer promotion, erratic rock® in Puerto Natales is posting
their own power. The problem is they just need
special shoestring Cabo Froward programs for
The program runs weekly during the months of
backpackers in Patagonia. For what they call
January, February and March and is 6 days in
‘...a getting back to our roots program...” these
total. Program cost starts at 75.000clp for full
series of Cabo Froward trips will be open to the
groups. Trips include guide, food, one night in
public at a surprising low backpackers price.
Punta Arenas and transportation. This is a self
Program director Bill Penhollow: `We designed
sufficient program and each team member must
this series of Cabo trips for the backpackers
carry all personal gear and equipment. Cabo
who don’t normally use guides. Travelers that
Froward programs leave every Sunday from
want to do something unique and who want
Puerto Natales and return to Punta Arenas on
to carry their own gear, who want to achieve
Fridays.
FILM
MOUNTAIN
someone to show them the way....’.
FESTIVAL WORLD TOUR
the tip of the continent on their own, under
A PROGRAM OF THE BANFF CENTRE
erratic rock.com
www.banffmountainfestivals.ca
Join the rucksack revolution.
Feb 8 & 9, 2007
Cabo departure dates 2007 Experience and good physical fitness is essential. Must be able to carry full and loaded pack and walk on and in difficult terrain, including river crossings of a minimum of 1.5 meters deep. Optional zodiac return from tip or trek up Mt. Tarn is subject to additional fees.
Feb 4-9 Feb 11-16 Feb 18-23 Feb 25-Mar 2 Mar 4-9 Mar 11-16 reservations +56-61 410355 February 2007
v
8pm • Free Enterance Puerto Natales, Patagonia Located at Escuela 1 Across from the ‘other’ Plaza on Baquedano
Rollin’ On The River by Marjan Alkema
Freedom. Local Rental Car Guide.
AVIS-EMSA
Magallanes Renta Car
Transpatagonia
www.sandypoint.cl toursandypoint@entelchile.net Phone 56-61- 222241 Lautaro Navarro 975 Punta Arenas
www.emsarentacar.cl rentacar@viaterra.cl Phone 56-61- 410775 Baquedano 558 - Puerto Natales Phone 56-61- 241182 Roca 1044 - Punta Arenas www.transpatagonia.cl Phone 56-61-413593 Blanco Encalada 330 local #1 Puerto Natales Phone 56-61-242304 Mejicana 528 - Punta Arenas
Punta Alta
www.puntaalta.cl rentacar@puntaalta.cl Phone 56-61-410115 Blanco Encalada 244 Puerto Natales
Budget
www.budgetpatagonia.com budgetpatagonia@danilojordan.cl Phone 56-61- 202720 Bdo. Ohiggins 964 Punta Arenas
www.magallanesrentacar.cl magallanes@magallanesrentacar.cl Phone 56-61- 220780 Ohiggins 949 Punta Arenas
Econorent
Wilcar Ltda
www.wilcarrentacar.com info@wilcarrentacar.com Phone 56-61-220617 Boliviana 679 Punta Arenas
International
www.international-rac.com info@international-rac.com Phone 56-61- 228323 Waldo Seguel 443 Punta Arenas
Adel
www.adelrentacar.cl info@adel.cl Phone 56-61- 224819 Pedro Montt 952 Punta Arenas
www.aquanativapatagonia.com
ds
& Dri
F ri e n
nk s
e r o o T
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
At the crack of dawn we’re driving along the coast, towards a cloudy looking Paine. Kayaks tied on the car, a sleepy guide in the back. It looks like the coming days we’re going to be cold and wet. Even before the park rangers are present we enter the park to get set at Rio Serrano, where our trip starts. Struggling to get all our stuff first in a waterproof bag and then into the kayak, to find out a couple of times that we forgot something and have to start all over again, we get some safety instructions. Never grab or hit a tree in the water (hmm), never move your body over to the side to inspect something next to your kayak and‌ please pull over to the side of the river just before reaching the big waterfall (that’s a big time hmmm). After circling around for the first bit, trying to control this unsteady kayak, (without grabbing any trees or moving over that is) floating down the river doesn’t seem to be that difficult. Our guide doesn’t let us work to hard and points out the beautiful views of the Paine Massif and different birds; mostly spectacled ducks and upland goose with little chicks. Fortunately we manage to get our kayak on the shore before reaching the waterfall which roars dangerously in the background. After some well deserved sandwiches we get to the hardest part of the trip, carrying the kayaks overland to the other side of the waterfall. Back in the water it takes some effort to get floating away from the waterfall, but after that it’s time to relax again. The sun has come out and with the shores full of flowers we don’t feel like being in Patagonia at all. After some extra safety instructions, we even pass the normally very windy Donoso pass relatively easy, to reach glacier Tyndall where the weather suddenly turns and big waves and strong winds
Nueva Imagen Gymnasium & Spa
For more information about this tour (2 or 3 days on Rio Serrano kayaking and camping) please contact Onas Patagonia: Phone 061-614301 Blanco Encalada 211 reservasonas@onaspatagonia.com
patagoni
Patagonia.
alternativa
Everything in Patagonia. Trekking Kayaking Penguins Horses Navigation Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. +56-61 225889 www.patagonialternativa.com
CHEZ MOI... CHEZ VOUS...
ours t y l We e k r r a n o ! e Rio S
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Eberhard 169 Puerto Natales, Chile
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Mejicana 1174
Eberhar d 161 Pto. Natales, Chile +56-61 415749 www.patagoniablacksheep.com
It’s a nice campsite, with a look out point with good views of the glacier, although the grey rain clouds don’t really help. Fortunately we find out that you can carry a lot in a Kayak, we set up a table, make a plastic roof with use of the paddles and have some hot chocolate and toast with tuna. For dinner there is pasta, chicken and wine, very tasty, but the cold and rain drive us to bed early. Next day our luck doesn’t change, it’s still raining, but it appears that kayaking in this weather is less cold than it looks. After joining with the rivers Tyndall and Geikie, the water is running faster here, which seems to attract other kinds of birds. Couples of very scenic ruddy-headed gooses (not much seen in the park) fly over and noisy kingfishers don’t even seem to notice us. After a couple of hours, just before arriving at Puerto Toro, where our kayaking ends, we hit the ocean. Immediately we’re taken by waves and it’s harder than it looks to actually reach the little harbor, but we make it‌ After a quick change of dry clothes, we have time to make some pictures of charming glacier Serrano. And then we change our experience of floating along, becoming one with the river for a big boat, full of day tourists to take us tired, with sore arms, but satisfied back to Puerto Natales.
Hand & Foot Therapies machine & free weights sauna sun bed Massage room Chocolate Therapy
79% Water & Ice. You´ll need a kayak.
RestoBar
surprise us. Our guide decides that that’s enough adrenaline for one day, and we make camp at the first beach we hit.
Eusebio Lillo 1417 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 412052
Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile
Mejicana 1174 Punta Arenas .FKJDBOB 1VOUB "SFOBT 1BUBHPOJB $IJMF Patagonia, Chile 'POP DFM fono 227678 / cel. 09-94246903 XXX MPEHJOHNFKJDBOB N DPN yoya_h@hotmail.com
Sheep Shearing
Rustike 10% off any purchase
Discounts for Travellers The Black Sheep would like to thank all the local businesses that make being a traveller a little easier.
O’ Sole Mio
Restaurant
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
Baquedano 719 Pto Natales w w w. e r r a t i c r o c k . c o m
Payalucaless.
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Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile ph. 415749
Phone / Fax 56•61•415285 Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile
10% off any purchase This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on chocolate, coffee, ice cream & brownies.
EMPORIO de la Pampa Eberhard 226 -Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile
Magallanes 619 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. 221982
10% off penguin tour
Applies to Seno Otway & Zodiac to Isla Magdalena
erratic rock 2
Puma Exploraciones 10% off any day climb Confirmation # _________________________ Torres del Paine, Chile +56-61 360 360 puma@lastorres.com.cl
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
5% off any cash purchase
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
10% OFF Glacier Grey Ice Hike
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on Daily Ice Hikes on Glacier Grey. Valid for 2006-07 season. Can be redeemed at Eberhard 302, Baquedano 719 in Puerto Natales or at the Operations Hut at Glacier Grey in Torres del Paine National Park.
10% off any cafetería ph +56-61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto. Natales
Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61 This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a 1 hour massage. Valid season 2006-07.
B. Zamora 732 Pto Natales www.erraticrock.com
Free bottle of wine upon first night visit!
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a regional cheese plate with the purchase of wine for two.
February 2007
erratic rock rental
10% off any program
10% off any purchase
Punta Arenas, Chile O’Higgins 974 FONO: 242026
Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile
10% off Trekkers Massage
expires Feb 28, ‘07
A. Prat 337 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412869
ilLaundry ServLaundry Service
5% off any purchase
for Travellers
10% off
for laundry drop off before 10am
Indian Adventure Travel
15% off rentals 10% off other services Bulnes 469 Pto Natales, Chile +56-61 415753 www.indianadventure.cl
50% off backpackers yoga session
PUERTO NATALES BARROS ARANA 299 FONO: 413622
PUNTA ARENAS ERRAZURIZ 891 FONO: 240214
GOLDEN DRAGON 5% off your meal Bulnes 439 - Puerto Natales Manuel Señoret 908 - Punta Arenas
(+56 61)412221 info@estanciatravel.com www.estanciatravel.com
10% off first nights stay
Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales, chile
www.susalatino.com
tel: 413829
Redeemable for 10% off - Valid until Feb 28, 2007
O
N A US
had climbed Mt. Shinn.We then moved the camp below Mt. Gardiner and used it as an approach to Mt. Tyree. After several misstarts John Evans and Barry Corbet got to the summit of Tyree on January 6, 1967. On January 12, with the party divided into various groups, we also climbed Long Gables and Mt. Ostenso. Vinson was not re-climbed until thirteen years later. Tyree has only seen four or five ascents.
ALIS
PATAG
Mt. Vinson 40th Anniversary Reunion Climb by Brian S. Marts, DVM TR
Hand Crafts
LAPISLAZULI JEWELERY
HAND CRAFTS
DECORATIONS
Carlos Bories 278 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 8 4649562 pedroblu@hotmail.com
4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY "AQUEDANO
0UERTO .ATALES
y 1967
Januar
Two groups applied to the related authorities in 1964 to climb Mt. Vinson, the last unclimbed “continental peak”. In those days all travel and activity in Antarctica was through governmental agencies: the State Department, Defense Department, the Department of the Navy, National Science Foundation, and the US Antarctic Research Projects Office. Both the east and west coast groups that had applied to climb were turned down. In September 1966 I returned from guiding climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado to find we were going in November. The details vary with who is doing the remembering, but it had to do with Japanese and Italian climbers wanting support and transportation, Woodrow Wilson Sayre (Four Against Everest) supporting a private plan, and Secretary of the Defense, Robert McNamara and the State Department wanting American climbers to have the first chance. Anyhow, the American Alpine Club, with Nick Clinch in charge, put together a team of ten from the east and west coast contingents: Pete Schoening, Eiichi Fukushima, Dick Wahlstrom, John Evans, Charlie Hollister, Barry Corbet, Sam Silverstein, Bill Long, and me. Funding came as $25,000 from the National Geographic Society with donations from Eddie Bauer, Head skis, Rolex watches, and Motorola Radio. We had a science plan to do geology (three geologists in the group) and some medical research, but the main idea was to climb Vinson. I left late November to get supplies and food in New Zealand. Everything went through Christchurch to McMurdo via Navy C-130s then. We went to the ice on December 3, 1966. After two days of organizing and repacking in McMurdo we were flown to the mountains via Byrd Station. They dropped us 20 plus miles from the base of Vinson. We were to use a motorized toboggan to ferry gear on Nanssen sleds. After several failed attempts to find the previously dropped fuel barrels and an effort to man-haul the sleds we finally got everything to the base of Vinson. Over the next three weeks we put in camps and slowly moved up the mountain. We were very aware of the potential for vicious weather and supplied all camps with a week’s worth of food and fuel. By December 20 all members had climbed Vinson, and by December 24 all
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Fast forward to January 2005: Damien Gilder, an Australian with the private OMEGA foundation, brought the now filled summit register down from Vinson. After a discussion with several others including Peter McDowell of ANI/ALE it was decided to send the register to the AAC museum in Boulder, Colorado. This action was the impetus for a 40th reunion climb of Vinson. ALE searched out John Evans, who, as a part of his job with Raytheon Polar Ser-
it a good effort and started down about 100 vertical feet from our goal. Getting off the mountain was easy. Getting out of Antarctica was something else. Clouds, fog, cross-winds, and broken plane parts delayed our leaving the ice until January 8. The end of a great trip. After forty years the mountains have changed. Despite losing 800’ to increased accuracy in measurements, the mountain seems larger. Where 23 year old legs ran with abandon, 63 year old knees endure discomfort after a while. Distances between camps seem to have multiplied, and shoulders can’t take the strain of 75 pound packs so we’re more selective in what we carry. Instead of the sense of isolation we had in 1966 we now are part of an international community from Europe, Russia, New Zealand, and Australia among others, many completing the seven summit efforts or the seven summits plus two poles. The mountains seem more active: ice falls actually drop ice, evidence of avalanches exist, wind slab fracture lines are apparent, some glaciers have “flushed” and dropped 50-100 feet, and there seems to be more fallen snow, not just snow that has drifted. Global Warming is having a noticeable effect here too, at least to us amateur observers.
Antarctica is no longer relegated to just the scientists that make use of its unique environments. Now anyone with money and time can see and enjoy this spectacular continent— and that’s a good thing. The more people who can appreciate the beauty and varied scenery of this vast photo by Eiichi Fukushima and fragile place, the more support can be gained for the Antarctic Treaty (arguvices, contracts with the National Science Founably the most successful treaty ever between dation to coordinate Antarctic research projects. John suggested there might be others wanting to nations) and the great breadth of scientific endeavors that occur on the ice. try the climb, and the idea took flight. Eventually, our party consisted of John Evans, Eiichi I have left a place that I’ll probably Fukushima, Sam Silverstein, and me from the never see again. There’s a sadness in that, but original 1966 group. We were joined by Bill there is also a sense of pride in beginning someLong’s son, Brooke; Pete Schoening’s daughter, thing that many can now enjoy—a spectacular Lisa Jertz, and Tony Puyols, a photographer place and a beautiful mountain range. from Los Angeles who was documenting “old guys still climbing.” Bill Straka from California was a late addition to our group. With tremendous support from ALE we flew on December 15, 2006 from Punta Arenas to Patriot Hills in an Ilyushin 76. Over the next ten days we slowly moved up Mt. Vinson. Allowing time to acclimate, we 60 and 70 year olds went from Vinson base camp to Half Camp, Low Camp and finally, to High Camp. Summit day was December 25. We left High Camp at 1100 and -20F. We slowly moved up onto the summit plateau and gradually moved around the mountain in clock-wise direction east to south and then the southwest side. Suddenly, ALE guide Tim Hewette decided we were too slow and that the remaining “old guys” had to go down. What a shock! This was the first inkling that we wouldn’t make the summit. No arguing. It was only a 5-iron shot to the top, but we all figured we had given
photo by Eiichi Fukushima
LIVE MUSIC! ery
Private & group yoga sessions daily
Ev
Wednesday - Saturday in February!
torres del paine tested in patagonia
New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales tel: 413829
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Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310
Matafari - Reggae Austral
The Reggae band Matafari from Punta Arenas recently played for 2 nights in Chill-@ Restobar in Puerto Natales. If you weren’t there you missed a full night of incredible roots-reggae and a dance floor full of both locals and tourists. Matafari jammed out familiar roots-reggae rhythms mixed with their own Spanish lyrics creating a truly positive vibration. Matafari was formed by brothers Rodrigo and Miguel and their sister Ingrid Cinthia Matamala-Otey in 1999. The group got their name by combining their last name with Rastafari.
Matafari was the headliner at the BigRock festival last April in Puerto Natales. They plan to travel to Mexico soon with the intention of spreading their message via Reggae to many worldwide. Matafari tells the Black Sheep “If JAH provides we hope to make a reality of our ideas so we can fulfill the purpose of transforming our art of expression into a tool of SPIRITUAL HEALING.” Matafari plays live shows every Thursday at Chill-E Restobar here in Puerto Natales. Cover charge is 1.000clp. Don’t miss out! Be sure to try the Pisco Sour!
e
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l l del Chi e d fé ultura
Cauevo Café C Hour ‘N y p m Hap m-11p 9p
Live Music February Wednesday: Matafari & Johnny Salsa Rock Thursday: Matafari (Navimag reunion Reggae fest) Friday: Johnny Salsa (Jazz-Funk) Saturday:
Electonic Live DJ
Bulnes 343
Puerto Natales, Chile
In the beginning there was ice. Departing from the Glacier Grey Operations Hut in Torres del Paine
Big Rock Festival Coming in April The second annual Big Rock Festival is coming
and mini-football.
again to Puerto Natales, Chile. Starting last
As a new addition to this year’s other competi-
season as a one day event, this year will span
tions, this year the Big Rock Festival will be
over a three day weekend. Dates yet to be an-
awarding a cash prize for the first annual Gar-
nounced by the Big Rock planning commity, but
bage Clean-Up Race. Teams of three will have
days will be a scheduled mix of public outdoor
2 hours to fill as many garbage bags from the
compations and live music venues at varios
beaches as possible. Teams will be racing for a
locations throughout Puerto Natales. Competi-
cash prize of 200.000clp.
- Daily Ice Hikes - 1, 2 & 3 Day Seminars - 9 Day Expedition Primers
icehike@planetaglaciar.com
tions this year will include tri-athlons, relays
•Located across from Plaza de Armas•
Experience Chile... Specializing in...
traditional Chilean lamb asados, grilled meat, seafood and shellfish.
Carlos Bories 430 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 410999 February 2007
10 Agrupación Medio Ambiental Torres del Paine AMA Uno de los destinos más visitados en Chile por el turista extranjero es sin duda Torres del Paine. Un lugar donde los paisajes nunca se repiten, donde confluyen todas las nacionalidades, creencias, idiomas y costumbres. Donde se observan cientos de animales a la orilla del camino, donde se elevan desde las profundidades grandes formaciones de granito y roca sedimentaria, se encuentra esta reserva de la biosfera. Miles de personas llegan cada día para hacer del silbido del viento su única compañía en el siempre constante caminar de quienes siguen sus senderos. Aquí, enclavado a los pies de las torres nace y se desarrolla una agrupación de voluntarios motivados por la naturaleza, la conservación del medioambiente y la educación hacia todos quienes de algún modo se relacionan con este lugar. Historia Comenzaba el mes de noviembre, hace ya poco más de dos años, cuando algunos trabajadores de Fantástico Sur y Hostería Las Torres se reúnen en torno a un objetivo: formar la Agrupación Medio Ambiental Torres del Paine. La idea central era el Desarrollo, Investigación y Fomento de la Cultura Ambiental. El primer proyecto de la agrupación fueron
los trabajos de mantención de senderos y conservación. Con aportes de empresas privadas de la región se distribuye dentro de Torres del Paine, Puerto Natales y Punta Arenas material informativo con el objetivo de incentivar tanto en turistas como en personas residentes en el lugar, una conducta responsable respecto al medioambiente. Poco después se implementa el programa de Minimización de Impacto Humano orientado a la recolección y reciclaje de residuos generados por los visitantes, además de la programación rutinaria de esfuerzos de recolección de botellas de vidrio, latas y baterías. Con el correr de los días se comienzan a reclutar voluntarios para colaborar en el trabajo de los senderos y también en la conformación de las áreas de recuperación, que cierran el paso de peatones y caballos para permitir que la capa vegetal impactada se recupere. Durante el incendio forestal de febrero de 2005, AMA Torres del Paine agrupó alrededor de 140 voluntarios, entre turistas chilenos y extranjeros, personal de empresas regionales, habitantes de las ciudades de Puerto Natales y Punta Arenas, además de personal y equipos aportado por empresas de turismo, Estancias particulares de la región como Estancia Familia
Art Gallery & Jewelry
56 61 411461
Eberhard 318 Puerto Natales
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by Claudia Paz Silva
Alvarez y Familia Hernández. Presente Distintas iniciativas se han llevado a cabo bajo la coordinación de AMA. Hoy en día sus líneas principales se orientan hacia la Investigación y la Educación. El Liceo Juan Bautista Contradí, Colegio Charles Darwin, Universidad de Magallanes, INACAP, Liceo Politécnico de Puerto Natales, Liceo Politécnico de Punta Arenas, entre otros nos han visitado. A la fecha más de 160 alumnos han participado de jornadas acompañados por profesores en la cuales recibieron charlas educativas orientadas a entregar información de biodiversidad, hidrografía, manejo de desechos y reciclaje. Hace un año se creo la primera brigada de Combate de Incendios Forestales compuesta por voluntarios en Torres del Paine, los cuales en su momento recibieron capacitación teórica y practica. Los próximos meses se realizarán otras dos jornadas de capacitación para estos voluntarios y para aquellos que quieran formar parte de la iniciativa.Se han llevado a cabo también ciclos de Educación Ambiental, hasta la fecha llevamos 15 charlas dictadas por diversos científicos sobre biodiversidad, fauna, humedales y huemules orientadas a turistas y trabajadores. Este año logramos entregar 1000 sacos con botellas de vidrio a COANIQUEM (Institución que se preocupa de ayudar a niños quemados) para ser recicladas y obtener dinero para financiar su causa. Pero la línea más importante que atraviesa esta agrupación sigue siendo el voluntariado. Todas las actividades que se han llevado a cabo no habrían sido posibles sin la colaboración del equipo humano que día a día trabaja para desarrollar nuevos proyectos. Este año ha estado marcado por la presencia de estudiantes universitarios que desarrollan investigaciones. Una investigación que llega a sus etapas finales es aquella que realiza Alejandra Mora, Licenciada en Geografía de la Universidad de Chile, quien realiza su tesis de grado en una propuesta para el trazado de Senderos. Esta joven de 22 años llegó al Parque por iniciativa propia y a la agrupación a través de su interés en encontrar una entidad que se interesara en un estudio como el de ella. Así hoy ella ha logrado hacer una propuesta
Futuro Hoy se ha comenzado la ejecución del Plan de manejo que considera distintas etapas de investigación tomando como base la zonificación presentada en el proyecto, siendo nuestro mayor desafió. Además se encuentran disponibles vacantes para los trabajos voluntarios en senderos, para aquellos que quieran enseñar la lengua inglesa a la comunidad de Torres del Paine y diseñadores de websites que puedan aportar con sus conocimientos a la agrupación. La temporada va cobrando fuerza cada ves más y aumenta el flujo de visitantes a la Patagonia Chilena y así también sin lugar a dudas se irán incorporando más voluntarios a esta iniciativa que busca mantener viva e intacta la tierra y sus paisajes. Hoy disponemos de un sitio donde encontraras diversas alternativas para participar como voluntario en proyectos ambientales en Torres del Paine.Visitar www. amatorresdelpaine.org o solicita información a info@amatorresdelpaine.org
Daily Rock Climbs in Torres del Paine Looking for something extra while in Torres del Paine? A new company has begun daily outdoor rock climbing programs out of Hosteria las Torres. Puma Explorations is offering two departure times daily through April 2007. From
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beginner to advanced, these daily programs of-
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($38USD).
Comfortable rooms, Continental breakfast, private bathrooms, 24 hour reception, cable tv, multilingual, telephone
concreta para mejorar los senderos que existen entre el albergue Torres a El Chileno, Los Cuernos y Serón. Ahora resta la tarea de AMA de buscar las mejores alternativas para la implementación de este estudio. Otra investigación que ha tenido lugar al alero de la Agrupación es la recolección de muestra de aguas en el sector. Dicho estudio fue realizado por una estudiante de biología de la Pontificia Universidad Católica de Valparaíso y hoy forma parte de la Descripción zooplanctónica cualitativa en Lagos y Humedales de la Estancia Cerro Paine, que será presentado a comienzos de 2007. Hoy en día se finaliza el desarrollo de una memoria de título sobre energías renovables no convencionales como una manera de producir electricidad para los albergues. El pasado 28 de octubre en Hostería Las Torres, se llevó a cabo la inauguración conjunta del Centro y el Sendero Interpretativo entregados a AMA como herramienta para educar a la comunidad local. El evento contó con la presencia de autoridades y actores sociales claves en la gestión de la ONG puesto que se presentó en dicha oportunidad el Plan de Manejo para la sustentabilidad de la estancia Cerro Paine.
fer a great taste of rock climbing in Patagonia. The cost of these rock seminars are 19.000clp Aside from being easily accessible from Hosteria & Refugio Torres, these programs are all inclusive; ropes, climbing shoes, helmets, saftey equipment and instruction from the expe-
Puma Exploraciones
Torres del Paine Patagonia-Chile The founder of Puma Exploration is second Fono 360 360 rienced and ultra friendly Puma crew.
generation Torres climber, Tomas Marusic
L’huissier. Tomas grew up climbing with his father, Pepe (Jose Marusic Fernandez), a local
www.pumaexploraciones.com puma@lastorres.com
legend in Torres del Paine. A day out with the Daily Departures Puma crew will open your eyes to the history of AM 9:00 to 13:00
Hostal Francis Drake Phone & Fax +56-61 411553 contact@hostalfrancisdrake.com Phillipi 383 Pto Natales, Chile www.patagoniablacksheep.com
climbing in the region as well as getting you that PM 15:00 to 19:00 much better prepared for your next rock adventure.
Black Sheep Review: Antarctica XXI I had always heard of the flights headed to Antartica that couldn’t land. I always thought it sounded kind of exiting, part of the adventure. “The fierce climate of Antarctica not allowing us to land... blah, blah, blah...”. But when my flight was turned around in mid air, 30 minutes from King George Island, I didn’t see the romance in it. I just wanted to land and board that converted research ship that would be home for 6 days. Then, I had to smile to myself a bit. I was just being spoiled. I had a good drink in my hand, the crew was making sure I was comfy and I had just spent a night in the 4 star José Nogueira downtown Punta Arenas with the others from my group. This trip was all about luxury. And I was enjoying every detail. But no matter how nice the plane, landing on Antarctica was Antarctica’s decision. Antarctica is more than just a far away vacation, there are bigger things going on down there. There is more history, nature and science there then I would ever be able to understand completely. Human beings tend to be strangely attracted to places where we don’t belong. We climb mountains into the death zone, we scuba dive into darkness, we go to the moon ...and we go to Antarctica. By any normal standard, we could never survive in these places without special training and equipment, yet we crave that feeling. It’s that feeling of insignificance combined with endless possibility. These are those out of the way places that you go on purpose. Patagonia and Antartica are not places you swing by on your way to somewhere else. They are the destinations. From the first moment we landed on King George Island, I got a very ‘scientific’ first impression. Directly after our Dash-7 landed we were wisked away for the proper footwear. We were schooled on the importance of not tracking soil from one landing zone to the next. All of our time, while not on the ship, would be spent in these white rubber boots. It all added to the feeling that Antarctica really was a protected area and we were in the worlds largest clean room. The team took a small trek down to the zodiak launching area. A lone penguin watched us load in with instruction from Residencial
Bernardita Regular dorms & Private rooms with breakfast, hot showers, phone, private bathroom and cable TV - Tourist Information - Torres del Paine & surrounding areas O´Higgins 765 - ph & fax (56-61) 411162 Puerto Natales, Chile email itat@mixmail.com
11
by Rustyn Mesdag
photo by Jordi Plana our Russian zodiak captain. The weather was patchy but the zodiak was smooth. The ship waited for us out in the bay. We boarded, got quickly settled, and were back in the zodiaks off to a near by penguin colony of Gentoos. This was only the beginning. Everyone had gotten a taste of rapid weather changes in that first zodiak landing on Day 1. While we were on shore, the wind and waves picked up dramatically which made the return trip to the ship rough and gave us all a reality check. Saftey drills were preformed on deck to ensure everyones saftey for the following days. The Russian crew did their work with amazing percision and confidence. They were nothing less then force to be reckoned with and always good for a laugh. The Antarctica XXI staff on board the ship was a young, hip, high energy group. They were clearly having a lot of fun with the passengers, but seemed to have a lot of fun together as well. Diana, the Expedition Leader, was always full of information and always seemed like she was a second away from breaking into a laugh. Jordi, the ships biologist and photographer, was as cool and clean as Antartica itself; and Gariel, logistics manager, is a climber through and through. The entire staff had been hand Comfortable Rooms Fully equiped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet and Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Patagonian Drinks Coffee shop José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@hotmail.com Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile
picked for specific skills they all brought to the program. Together it was a tight crew. They were all instantly liked by the group. They created an environment that helped all of us (who were in luxury mode) make the transition out of our digs, out into the reality of being in Antartica. No matter how good the food is, or how thorough the information, it is impossiible to fake saftey issues. The crews first priority was the saftey of the expedition members. For the next few days, the crew filled our every moment with ‘Antarctica’. If we weren’t off the ship exploring historical sites and massive penguin colonies, we were able to attent infomation seminars in the ship’s common area. And if that wasn’t enough, there was an extensive library on board as well. Who acually goes on these next level, high end trips to Antarctica? Is it the silver lining that surrounds this program? Or is it the flight v/s the Drake? Most poeple sail over for two days on the Drake Passage. That is supposed to be a rough trip, with rough waters. Flying from Punta Arenas only takes 3 hours, this helped me have a worry free trip. Being prone to sea sickness, I loved the flight. This also gave us more time on Antarctica, another detail
that separates this program from the rest. And that is the answer to my own question, Who goes on these trips? The people that want something extra. Clients from all over the world, people I would never have otherwise met. Frank, a movie producer from Australia; Anthony, a hotel manager on Isla Navarino; Cecilia, a tour operator from Santiago, Jamie and Sarah, english diplomats living abroad and Richard (the only other man aboard who decided to take a swim with me in the Antarctic waters at Cuverville Island)... needless to say, there was no shortage of dinner conversation. For 5 days we navagated through the Bransfield Strait, down to Paradise Bay, then onto the Lemaire Channel. We visited Port Lockroy, the old English base. We were constantly on the go. Eating great meals while the ship took us to our next landing point. Zodiaks, small and manuverable, wisking in and out of ice formations. We spent an afternoon floating around Leopard Seals, sunning themselves on ice bergs. We visited numerous penguin colonies: Gentoos, Adelies and Chinstraps. They walked amongst us fearlessly. I wondered who was observing who. Other then the first day om King George, the weather was nothing less than perfect. Blue skies for days and days. Calm waters and a slight breeze just to remind you where you are. My time in Antarctica was everything I always hoped for. I always worried that maybe I was blowing it all up in my head larger then I should, as to not dissapoint myself when I finally got there. When talking about the white continent, you need not worry. Antarctic XXI operates out of Punta Arenas, Chile. You can find them on the web at www.antarcticaxxi.com or you can reach them by phone +65-(61) 228783.
Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 Punta Arenas +56-61 241029 remezon@hotmail.com
erratic rock
HOSTEL • GUIDE SERVICE • RENTAL CENTER INGENIERIA Y CONSTRUCCIONES Eberhard 599 -Puerto Natales - fono 412592
andescorp@gmail.com
We rent real gear. baquedano 719, puerto natales
12 I n t e r n a t i o n a l Scheduled to officially begin in March 2007, the International Polar Year promises to advance our understanding of how the Earth’s remote polar regions impact global climate systems, to bring about fundamental advances in many areas of science, and to fire the enthusiasm of young men and women for future careers in science and engineering. WHAT IS IPY? International Polar Year (IPY) 2007-2008 will be an intense, coordinated campaign of polar observations, research, and analysis that will be multidisciplinary in scope and international in participation. IPY will use today’s powerful research tools to better understand the key roles of the polar regions
P o l a r
in global processes. IPY 2007-2008 will be fundamentally broader than the International Polar Years held in 1882-1883 or 1932-1933 or the International Geophysical Year of 1957-1958. This IPY will explicitly incorporate multidisciplinary and interdisciplinary studies, including biological, ecological, and social science elements. The polar regions play key roles in our global environment. Many important broad and interlinked research challenges involving both polar regions exist today. To name just one example, how and why are the changes in polar regions occurring and how can we predict and mitigate the outcome? Changes in ice mass are linked with regional and global environment and atmospheric and oceanic
Y e a r
2 0 0 7
processes; implementing polar observation systems would help document the changes. Clues for understanding how and why similar changes occurred in the past remain stored in polar earth and ice; sediment and ice coring would help us understand past changes.
prior to the current era of environmental change. Meteorological data from the early IPY stations have been collected and are presented on the site for the first time in digital format. www.arctic.noaa.gov
HOW DO I GET MORE INFORMATION? www.us-ipy.gov or www.ipy.org, General Questions to prb@nas.edu
The International Polar “Year” actually will extend from March 1, 2007, until March 1, 2009, to allow researchers to conduct two annual observing cycles in each polar region, particularly in the isolated parts that are prohibitively cold and dark for roughly six months of the year.
Did You Know..?
The first International Polar Year was in 1881-1884 and now has a web site with data and images. These records offer a unique opportunity to study the Arctic as it existed
A N T A R A n t a r c t i c a 1893, The expedition lead by Carl Anton Larsen made the first use of skis in Antarctica. He also discovered petrified wood on Seymour Island, east of the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. 1898, Photography was first used on the expedition lead by Adrien Victor Joseph de Garlache de Gomery. On this same voyage the threemasted whaling ship Belgica was imprisioned in the ice for 377 days, being the first time men wintered south of 60°S. This proved that bases could be set up on the continent itself, enabling a full-time program of exploration. 1898, The expedition lead by Carsten Egeberg Borchgrevink took 90 sled dogs, the first dogs used in Antarctic work. The expedition also pioneered the use of kayaks foe seas travel, and was the first to bring to Antarctica the Primus stove, a lightwieght, portable pressure stove invented in Sweden six years before, that is still in use today. Unfortunately the expedition marked another first - when Norwegian zoolowww.patagoniablacksheep.com
f i r s t s
gist died on Oct 14, 1899. The 10 men that this expedition left behind on Cape Adare for the winter proved that men could survive Antarctica’s fierce, dark winet ashore, using a wooden hut as a base for travels along the coasts and inland towards the pole, and the two huts that were built atill stand today. 1908, Six men form an expedition lead by Ernast Henry Shackleton ascended Mt Erebus for the first time, reaching the rim of the volcano’s crater on March 10. At the same time another three men went hiking towards the South Magnetic Pole, reaching it on January 16, 1909, the first time it had been visited. 1928, The first powered flight in Antarctica was made by Wilkins and Ben Eielson on November 16, who took off from Deception Island and flew for 20 minutes. On December 20 they took off again and flew for 11 hours across the Peninsula and along its eastern side, covering 2,100 km. In March the expedition suffered
Antarctica’s first plane crash. 1935, The first woman to set foot on the Antarctica continent landed at the Vestfold Hills on February 20. 1946, Helicopters and icebreakers were used for the first time in the Antarctic by the US Navy in what they called Operation “Highjump”, an expedition that was primarily a training exercise for the US forces and a massive effort to map Antarctica. 1957, The first commercial flight in Antarctica was made, a PanAm Stratocruiser that departed from Christchurch and landed at McMurdo on Octoner 15. Aboard this plane were the first women to see the South Pole, two stewardesses, Patricia Hepinstall and Ruth Kelly.
350 B.C. It was the ancient Greeks who first came up with the idea of Antarctica. They knew about the Arctic - named Arktos - The Bear, from the constellation the great bear and decided that in order to balance the world, there should be a similar cold Southern landmass that was the same but the opposite “Ant - Arktos” - opposite The Bear. They never actually went there, it was just a lucky guess!
13 A n t a r c t i c Did you know: Melting of polar ice has a negative effect on global warmng. Surface without snow or ice absorbs more eat, about 80-90% & surface with snow and ice reflects ore heat, around 85-90%. This way melting of ice is contribng to global warming which will results in further melting of ice.
I c e b e r g s
Icebergs are simply pieces of ice, large and small, which have broken off of a sheet, ice shelves, or glaciers, and float out to sea. By definition however, an iceberg is suppose to measure more than 100 square meters in area, and stand more than five meters above the surface. Occasionally, huge pieces of floating shelf ice break loose and drift away in the currents. These pieces of ice are called Tabular icebergs, and can be enormous, perhaps hundreds of square liometers in surface area, and may drift for years before melting or becoming grounded. Icebergs between 20-30 meters are particularly common. Lengths of icebergs up to 20 km are not uncommon either. The total mass of Antarctic icebergs is estimated to be one million cubic
A n t a r c t i c a M y t h s • There are no Polar bears on Antarctica! No matter what we have seen in children’s books, Polar bears and penguins never cross paths. • No one owns Antarctica! No matter what you have heard or read, no country owns any pie shaped piece of the white continent.
yards per year.
• Antarctica is not one big iceberg! There is actually a solid continent underneath all the ice.
C T I C A A n t a r c t i c a
S t a t i s t i c s
Ice
•Antarctica has 70% of all the world’s freshwater frozen as ice - and 90% of all the world’s ice.
Thickness
•Mean ice thickness: 1,829 m / 6,000 ft •Maximum ice thickness: 4,776 m / 15,670 ft
Population Size
•13,829,430 km2 5,339,543 miles2 1.4 times bigger than the USA, 58 times bigger than the UK •Antarctica´s largest ice shelf is the Ross ice shelf: (about the size of France) 510,680 km2 197,974 miles2
February 2007
•About 4,000 on scientific bases in the short summer 1,000 total in winter, around 25,000 summer tourists - and this place is 1.4 x bigger than the USA! There are NO permanent residents and NO native population.
Discovery and Exploration
•Antarctica was imagined by the ancient Greeks, but not even seen until 1820. •The first time anyone set foot on Antarctica was in 1821.
•The first year-round occupation - overwintering - was in 1898. •The South Pole was first reached in 1911.
Climate
•3 factors rule in Antarctica - cold, wind and altitude. Antarctica holds the a record for each of these things. •If Antarctica’s ice sheets melted, the worlds oceans would rise by 60 to 65 metres (200 - 210ft) - everywhere. •Antarctica is the best place in the world to find meteorites. Dark meteorites show up against the white expanse of ice and snow and don’t get covered by vegetation. In some places, the way the ice flows concentrates meteorites there. The ice makes them gather in one place. •The cold and dry conditions in the “Dry Valleys” region of Antarctica are so close to those on Mars that NASA did testing there for the Viking mission. It has not rained in the dry val-
leys for at least 2 million years. •The Antarctic ice cap has 29 million cubic kilometres of ice. This is 90% of all the ice on the planet and between 60 and 70 % of all of the world’s fresh water. Only about 0.4 percent of Antarctica is not covered by ice.
Animals
•Many Antarctic sea creatures including fish have antifreeze in their blood, so they don´t accidentally get frozen solid. •It has been estimated that during the feeding season in Antarctica, a full grown blue whale eats about 4 million www.coolantarctica.com (krill are small shrimp-like creatures), that’s 3600 kg or 4 tons - every day for 6 months. The daily intake would feed a human for about 4 years!
14 The Municipality and the Puerto Williams Tourism Association Welcome you to Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino, Chile
Beagle Channel
Beyond the end of the world...
Puerto Williams, Chile
Restaurantes/ Restaurants Albatros Restaurante Café Agelus Club naval de yates Micalvi Cabo de Hornos Camblor Dientes de Navarino Patagonia
621317 621080 621042 621067 621033-621384 621074 621267-621075
Piloto Pardo 228 Centro comercial norte 151 Seno Lauta Costanera s/n Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Centro comercial Sur 14 Yelcho 230
e-mail address turismoakainij@chileaustral.com purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com hostalcoiron@tie.cl rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostallajuwa@yahoo.es pedroortiz@chilesat.net pattypusaki@yahoo.es hostalyagan@hotmail.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com gerencia@lakutaia.cl ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
caminito@123mail.cl fgascogner@yahoo.es purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com pedroortiz@chilesat.net
Agencias de turismo/ Tourist agencies Turismo Akainij 621327-621173 Turismo aventura Shila 621366 Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Turismo SIM 621150- 621225 Agencia Native tours 621183 Agencia Victory Cruises 621010-621092 Desierto Blanco 621452
Centro comercial Sur 156 O´Higgins 322 Uspashun 64 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Centro Comercial Sur 154b Teniente Muñoz 118 Costanera 330
turismoakainij@chileaustral.com turismoshila@gmail.com rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostalcoiron@tie.cl maurice.vandemaele@gmail.com www.victory.cruises.com
Café Internet/ Cyber Café Cape Horn Net cyber café Turismo Akainij
Teniente Muñoz 118 Centro comercial Sur 156
captainben@victory-cruises.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com
Tiendas de Souvenier/Giftshops 55°Sur 621265 Isla hornos souvenier 621734 Kipa Akar Artesanias
Centro comercial norte 147 Centro comercial sur 140b Villa Ukika
fgascogner@yahoo.es
Servicio de guias/guide services Fuegia&CO 621251 Alapainch, guia de trekking 621048
Yelcho 232 Yelcho 218
fuegia@usa.net alapainch@yahoo.com
Transporte/Transports Servicio de taxi Servicios maritimos y turisticos Aerovias DAP Ushuaia boating Lancha peregrino austral Lancha Dep. Ultramar agencia maritima
621387 621015 621114-621051 54 2901 436193 621015 621294-621075 621049
Mario Leal 145 Costanera 436 Centro comercial sur 151 Gob.Godoy 190-Ususahia Costanera 436 Yelcho 230 Arturo Prat 35
jgodoy@terra.cl ventas@aeroviasdap.cl ushuaiaboagting@argentina.com peregrinoaustral@terra.cl pedroortiz@chilesat.net isiagredo@ultramar.cl
Otros Servicios Cabalgatas el padrino Museo Martin Gusinde Sabores del Beagle Yiakua, lavanderia
621136 621043 621136 621358
Costanera 262 Com.Aragay 1 esq.Gusinde costanera s/n Piloto Pardo342z
621010-621092 621327-621173
ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar pgrendi@yahoo.com ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
Listado elaborado por ENVIU
For information contact: Av. B. O’Higgins 189 - Phone 621011 - 621013 municipalidad@municipalidadcabodehornos.cl www.patagoniablacksheep.com
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How do I get to Puerto Williams? To get to Isla Navarino/Puerto Williams you have three main choices: The first is the slightly uncomfortable but adventurous ferry that takes 36 hours from Punta Arenas. The second is the twin otter that flies across the Darwin ranges and takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. The third is to go via Ushuaia and cross the Beagle Channel by zodiac. The choice is yours. Where is the downtown of Pto Willliams? It is strange to think that such a small place seems to have two centers. One is the centro commercial where you will find the post and DAP office, and then there are the supermarkets which are found facing each other along the road Piloto Pardo. Where can I sleep? There are actually quite few places to stay; some are cheaper than others. There is a luxury hotel which is pretty expensive, and then there is a range of hostels and residenciales around town. Are there any internet cafes on Isla Navarino? Yes! But the connection is not so good. The two cyber cafés are at the Akainij travel agency in the centro comercial and the other is up the hill and is called Cape Horn Net Cyber Café. Can I rent equipment on Isla Navarino? Turismo Shila in the Centro Comercial provides a range of camping equipment. Another possibility is to take a guide who provides the equipment. Where can I find camping gas? Turismo Shila as well as some hostels sell camping gas. What can I find to do in downtown Pto. Williams? Well….you´ll just have to come and find out. How old is this town? The town was established in 1953 as a naval base. Why is the town here? Geopolitics. Can I drink the water on Isla Navarino? Yes you can, but be careful with drinking the water from beaver dams. Are there any animals I need to worry about on Navarino? Not really, but sometimes the dogs can be an annoyance. Do I have to pay anything to trek on the Dientes? Nope, free! Where do I start my trek? At Pilot Pardo Street - the cops. You have to leave info about your itinerary and return date. From there you can head to either one of the two trailheads.
nte Capde
ville
Pardo gans o O’Hig Bernard
Carlos Condell
Direccion/Adress Austral 22 Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Uspashun 64 Villa Ukika Yelcho 230 Piloto Pardo 222 Piloto Pardo 260 Austral 22 Seno Lauta s/n Costanera 276
Co m
Fono/Phone 621173 621067 621033-621384 621227-621227 621140-621359 621267 621075 621116-621224 621118-621334 621173-621173 621733-621298 621136
an da nt e
Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Tourist Directory Hostales/Hostels Akainij Cabo de Hornos Camblor Coirón Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos Lajuwa Patagonia Pusaki Yagan Hospedaje Akainij Hotel Lakutaia Refugio El Padrino
lvi
ca
Mi
Golata Ancud
on Isla Navarino
Ar ag ay
Miramar
Arturo Prat
Puerto Williams
tro
a Via Cu
How do I get to Ushuaia from here? Ushuaia is NORTH (as in not south) from Williams. There is a Zodiac which has regular crossing from Isla Navarino to Ushuaia. It’s fairly pricey but still a good option if you don’t want to backtrack. Information for this can be found at Café Angelus at the Centro Comercial. Where can I find a Dientes map? Ooooohh... That’s a tough one. There are trekking guides available at the tourism agencies. As there are only a few printed they usually ask you to photocopy them. Why are half of the buildings white in Pto. Williams? The white buildings are the Armada (Navy) buildings which house their offices and families. Is there a money machine in Williams? Yep, and it’s 24hrs as well, located at the Banco de Chile. Can I rent a car in Pto. Williams? No. What time do the stores open? Usually between 10:00 and 13:00, and then from 16:00/17:00 to 20:00. The supermarkets are open from nine in the morning to twelve at night. How many people visit Williams in a season? Well, in a year there are about 8,000 visitors to the island. Of this about 6,000 are cruiseship passengers and 2,000 overnight tourists that usually go trekking. How big is Isla Navarino? 40 by 100KM. Why does everyone say that Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world? This has been a false rumor that has been circulating for years to draw people to Ushuaia. Some say there are differences between a city and a town, but whatever - there is no place to live further south then Puerto Willliams. How far is Cape Horn? It’s about 165km south of Puerto Williams. Can I get to Cape Horn or Antarctica from Puerto Williams? Yes you can, but it will cost ya. Several yachts leave Puerto Williams to these destinations during the summer season. Are there any other towns on Isla Navarino? Yes, but they are even smaller. Puerto Toro is truly the southernmost town in the world and is only reached by boat. Puerto Navarino is basically two families big and then there are some farms around. What is the population of Puerto Williams? 2,262
15
Billed as the southernmost trekking
opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes
an important landmark. No doubt because of the difficulty of the route
days, it would involve a day with two passes to surmount or a very long final day, descending
circuit on the Isla Navarino is miles beyond
and the distance of Isla Navarino from the
from the nearly 900 meter Paso Virginia back to
an ordinary trekking experience.
beaten path, the dientes circuit receives a
sea level over a distance of 23 kms. The route
For 53 km the route winds through an other
fraction of the annual visitors of Chile´s better
markers end more than 300 meters above sea
worldly landscape of mountains broken from
known treks. The route was marked with the
level, looking down on Bahia Virginia, and from
the floor of the ocean, where the andes crumble
Chilean numbered trail marker system in early
there the trekker must negotiate through the cow
into the antarctic plate, where tenuous passes
2001, but it is still far from a well marked path.
pastures and calafate bushes to the coastal road
from one valley to the next defy truly staggering
The dientes trekker needs to be self reliant and
and final 8 km´s of
winds and where spartan vegetation clings to a
good at route finding. The 38 trail points are
pavement back to Puerto Williams. Passing
precarious existence between the
spread over a 53 km route, with four significant
trucks will often stop for trekkers on the final
punishing climate and the persistent manipula-
passes to cross and a myriad maze of beaver
stretch, otherwise it is about a two hour walk
tions of the introduced beaver. For the serious
ponds and dams to negotiate in the valleys
back to Puerto Williams. Getting to Isla Navari-
trekker, the five day Dientes circuit is a chance
between. It is also strongly advised to follow the
no is part of the adventure itself. The patagonian
to experience a unique terrain at what is literally
route from Puerto Williams, as the markers are
airline company DAP flies a 20 odd seat twin ot-
the last scrap of land before the legendary Cape
only painted on one side. Since the markers are
ter from Punta Areanas to Puerto Williams daily
Horn and Antarctic sea. And while the route
cairns, or rock piles, individual trail markers are
in summer. The flight over Tierra del Fuego and
offers many worthy experiences, like
often difficult to distinguish from their surround-
the Straits of Magellan is incredibly scenic and
awesome vistas that stretch as far as the Cape
ings without the red signage painted on to mark
oddly enough, the least expensive option. There
Horn straits, it is also impressive for what it
the route.
are now however other options. Though more
lacks, like crowded trails, clearly defined paths
Weather is also a strong factor, particulary the
expensive than flying it is possible to travel by
and over crowded refugios. In fact, there are no
strength of the winds that sweep up from the
boat from Ushuaia across the Beagle channel to
refugios on the route. there is no entrance fee to
white continent and make the passes, especially
Puerto Navarino and then travel the 50 odd km´s
pay, trekkers are only required to check in with
the final pass to surmoun, Paso Virginia, very
of coastal road east to Puerto Williams. For the
the carabineros in Puerto Williams. Then it is
dangerous. Blasts of wind strong enough to
truly intrepid traveller, the Punta Arenas based
just 3 kms of road from the tiny village of Puerto
knock a heavily loaded trekker from their feet
Transbordadora Austral Broom operates a once
Williams and a good possibility you will see no
are not uncommon and come without warning.
a week passenger ferry to Puerto Williams, a 30
one else in the course of the circuit.
The dientes circuit is broken into five stages,
hour trip through the Straits of Magellan and
The dientes circuit is relatively new, developed
each stage requiring around five hours to com-
along the Beagle Channel. Though spartan in
in the early 90´s by lonely planet trekking guide
plete.
accomodations and service, the passing scenery
author Clem Lindemayer. For his efforts a few
With the long daylight hours of the southern
of hanging glaciers and mountains that float on
of the more prominent peaks along the circuit
hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be
water truly convey an end of the world
have been named after him. Cierro Clem in par-
tempted to combine two stages into one day.
sensation.
ticular makes an impressive profile and serves as
While it is possible to do the circuit in four
Isla Navarino, das südlichste Trekking der Welt.
Wasserscheu darf man nicht sein,
by Peter M. Gehrig
Der Lohn sind einmalig schöne Ausblicke auf
dem Kompass auskennen und sich eine Karte
wenn man sich zum „südlichsten Trekking der
die von Menschen unberührte Landschaft,
besorgen.
Welt“ auf der Isla Navarino am Beagle-Kanal
Zeltnächte unter einem atemberaubenden
Die Insel ist von Punta Arenas aus leicht mit
aufmacht. Aber das Vorurteil, hier regne es 366
Sternenhimmel und alles, was das Trekker-
dem Flieger nach Puerto Williams zu erreichen.
Tage im Jahr, auch wenn es kein Schaltjahr sei,
Leben ansonsten lebenswert macht. Vorausge-
Auch der in Punta Arenas lebende Österreicher
ist eben genau das: Ein Vorurteil. Wir hatten
setzt natürlich, es regnet nicht. Und schon in
Christian Moser von moseractive ist ein exzel-
vier Tage des besten Wetters, mit viel Sonne und
400 Metern über nn muss man spätestens im
lenter Kenner der Insel. Er spricht hervorragend
ohne Wind, während wir Anfang Mai unsere
April mit Schnee rechnen, Schnee, der auch im
Spanisch und bietet Begleitung in Deutsch an.
Tour um die Dientes de Navarino, die Zähne der
südlichen Sommer nicht verschwindet.
Moser Active kann über das Internet kontaktiert
Insel, unternahmen.
Das Gelände gleicht schon ab rund 500 Metern
werden. www.moseractive.cl
Gleich eine Warnung: Die Touren auf der ein-
den 3.000er-Gebieten der Alpen. Der Wind kann
malig schönen Insel nur 120 Kilometer nördlich
das Fortkommen erschweren. Der Volksmund
des Kaps Hoorn sind nichts für den gelegent-
weiss es: nicht jeder Tag ist ein Sonn(en)tag.
lichen Wochenendwanderer. Es gehört schon
Biber haben weite Teile der tieferen Landschaft
einige Trekking-Erfahrung dazu, Geländefestig-
geprägt, und man wird unwillkürlich an Bruce
keit und die Bereitschaft, auch in Hochmooren
Chatns lakonische Feststellung erinnert: Dies ist
und im Schnee das Einsinken bis zu den Knien
es, was Biber einem Land antun können.
zu akzeptieren und auch mit nassen Füßen vier
Die vorgeschlagenen Trekking-Pfade, oder zu-
bis sechs Stunden in einer menschenleeren
mindest die Ahnungen derselben in den bis zur
Hochgebirgslandschaft akkumulierte Höhe-
Baumgrenze dichten Südbuchenwäldern, sind
nunterschiede von täglich rund 1.000 Metern
zwar von dem dort lebenden Schweizer Denis
zu überwinden. Der Transport von Zelt und
Chevallay in jüngster Zeit markiert worden.
Verpflegung versteht sich von selbst.
Man kann aber auch abseits dieser Vorschläge
February 2007
das Land erkunden, sollte sich dann aber mit
New Williams Info by Marieke den Nijs
Finding tourist information on Chile’s most Southern town, Puerto Williams, is not an easy job. Especially information on the Internet is scarce. This is a pity, since Puerto Williams and its surroundings have much to offer for nature loving tourists. Enviu, a Chilean/ Dutch N.G.O., has currently been working on improving the information supply. Through a project directed towards the local entrepreneurs in the tourism sector, Enviu has facilitated the creation of various websites. During a two-month period Enviu carried out practical workshops, in which the entrepreneurs learned how to make and maintain a website. The result of this project is that recently, in addition to the websites that yet existed, four new websites have been put online. For anyone interested, please check out the new websites and learn more about the various tourism products that Puerto Williams has to offer: www.turismoshila.com - guiding & tours www.refugioelpadrino.com - Accomodation www.hostalpusaki.com - Accomodation www.albatrospub.com - Food For more information on the work of Enviu, visit www.enviu.org.
Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino
Hostel Pusaki
The Isla Navarino Dientes Circuit by J Williams
Piloto Pardo 222 pattypusaki@yahoo.es phone 621116-621224
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Williams, Puerto de Sueños by Diego Araya Son muchos los que arriban a estas costa en la siga del pueblo más austral del mundo. Miles de aventureros recorren sus calles y visitan sus atractivos. Pero probablemente es poco lo que alcanzan a conocer de la vida en Williams y de los sueños detrás de aquellas obras. Seguramente visitarán el circuito turístico de Navarino y recorreran sus calles y sitios de interes, pero probablemente no alcanzarán a conocer los rostros detrás de los sueños que hicieron
Gear.
Mountain House
Address: Bories 655 L-2 Phone: (56-61) 222219 - cell: 09 91229555 Punta Arenas, Chile info@jeansport.cl
D ow n Tow n H o s t e l Address: Armando Sanhueza 555 Phone: (56-61) 222219 - 221009 Cell Ph: 09 91229555 - 09 84394174 Punta Arenas, Chile info@downtownhostel.com www.downtownhostel.cl
N e a r S h o p p i n g & S e r v i ce s
The one who started it all...
Rustike es re fram · Pictu · Crafts s p m t a les · L s rs · Ar Cand se · Mirro andicraft Incen ed glass · H in a St
Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile
realidad. Mundo de marineros (yaganes, exploradores, Armada, pescadores, navegantes). Pueblo chico infierno grande. Clases sociales e integración. Hace unos minutos que sobrevuelo el canal beagle a bordo del twin otter de DAP rumbo al pueblo más austral del planeta, es mi primera visita y seguramente al igual que los lectores no tengo mucha información acerca de que esperar en mi destino, en mi cabeza solo caben imaginería y nombres llenos de aventura. Como no echar a volar la imaginación al nombrar Cabo de Hornos, Paso Drake, Darwin, la última mujer Yagan. Como, en mi posición de fotógrafo, no llenar estos instantes con imágenes asombrosas de estos parajes y su gente. Lo que si tengo son nombres que hablan de los atractivos turísticos de Navarino, pero que en estos minutos de vuelo sobre las espesas nubes también se llenan de ideas y fantasía. Ukika, Omora, Micalvi, Dientes de Navarino son seguramente los mismo nombres que cada visitante trae en su morral junto a sus sueños de fin de mundo. Pero a diferencia de la mayoría de los turistas en transito, yo hice patagonia mi hogar y el destino me ha permitido venir a este fin de mundo a transformar mi imaginería en imágenes. Probablemente al comenzar su recorrido por sus calles, Puerto Williams les podrán entran similares sensaciones a las que
Ya ha pasado casi una semana desde que puse mi retina por primera vez en estas costas y su gente. He recorrido sus calles, he disfrutado su gente, he heredado algunas de sus historias y he conocido a muchos de los personajes que le dan identidad a este pueblo de fin de mundo. He podido ver como en un pueblo tan aislado como este y con una escala totalmente humana de estilo de vida, esta tiene otros ritmos, adquiere otro valor y te hace vivirla de forma diferente. Aquí, más que en ningún lugar que haya visitado, su realidad esta construida por la vida y los sueños de personajes.
Finding the Patagonia 5 by bill penhollow Most of us are familiar with Africa’s famous “big five”: the buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, lion and leopard. However, few are familiar with the Patagonian Five (probably because I just came up with it to get published). Though they are not as big or dangerous as their counterparts in Africa, the P5 prove to be just as unique and even harder to observe (except for the guanacos!). A lot of luck is needed to observe all five in the park. Hopefully, the descriptions that follow will help trekkers in Torres del Paine be aware of what to look for and where to look for them. GUANACO: A South American cameloid relative of the llama and the alpaca. Sleek and strong, with brownish-white bodies and long necks. They are found in the steppe areas of Laguna Amarga, Laguna Azul, on the drive from the entrance to Lago Pehoe, and Laguna Verde. Guanacos feed on grasses, lichen, and shrubs. They breed once a year and give birth to their “chulengos” between November and February. In the winter months they congragate in herds
EL
of up to 400 animals grazing in the Lago Pehoe area of the park. HUEMUL: The Huemul or Andean deer is a small, compact deer, that measures on average just 1.5 meters in length. They can be found on the road between the Administration and Hostería Grey, near Western Bountries, around Lago Grey, and along the Pingo tram. The Huemul is on the brink of extinction. Due to man’s forest fires and encroachment on its habitat now they are strictly protected. They are very shy and difficult to observe. In 1834 it was incorporated into the Chilean coat of arms. PUMA: The largest of Patagonia’s predators, pumas are closely related to the North American mountain lion. Pumas thrive in a variety of habitats from Alaska to the bottom of Tierra del Fuego. It has the largest range of any of the big cats. It can be found both inside and outside of the park, from steppe to dense forest. The puma’s only enemy is man, they are protected by law, but are still hunted by ranchers.
C ONV ENT IL L O
HOSTAL - ALBERGUE
Punta Arenas, Chile Pje Korner 1034 Phone +56-61 242311 www.patagoniablacksheep.com
yo experimente. El contraste entre la pulcritud del barrio naval y la efervescencia del barrio civil.
info@hostalelconventillo.com www.hostalelconventillo.com
Trekkers will be lucky to see more than a track. ÑANDU: Also known as the Rhea, the ñandu is a member of the ostrich family. They are found on the main entrance drive to the park, and along the road towards Laguna Verde. There is no visual difference between male and female ñandus. The Hareem of females lay all of their eggs in one nest and the male sits on the eggs and watches over the 30 to 40 “charitas” (chicks). They are noted for their speed and zigzag escape patterns. The Ñandu is recognized as the Chilean symbol of the Magellan region. CONDOR: The condor is the largest member of the Vultrine family. It nests on high cliff faces and soars over the entire park. The black “fingers” at the tips of the 2.5-meter wings, plus its bright white collar, are the trademarks of this symbol of Chile. They produce only one chick every other year. The Condor appears with the huemul on the Chilean national emblem.
17
The Province of Last Hope by Cristina Yañez Covering a beautiful and varied landscape filled with valleys, rivers, lakes and the high mountainous peaks of Torres del Paine, the territory of this province extends between approximately 50 and 53 degrees of southern latitude and between 72,15 and 73,30 of occidental longitude. There were many events that shaped the progress of its occupation and settlement, the first being the expedition of Captain Juan Fernández de Ladrillero who in 1557 navigated a large part of the maritime area, including the fjord called “Last Hope.” After more than three centuries had passed, a colony was started for the purposes of raising sheep in early 1892 thanks to the pioneering activities of Captain Hermann Eberhard and other hardworking landowners. Without a doubt there were three important moments in the first years of the twentieth century that had an important effect on Natales’ history: the so called “Laudo Arbitral” that defined the border with Argentina in 1902, the acquisition of lands at the beginning of 1905 and the construction of the infrastructure in order to industrialize the exportation of sheep livestock by the Operating Society of Tierra del Fuego and finally, the foundation of the city of Puerto Natales in 1911. From the time of Ladrillero until the first two decades of the twentieth century, the period to which a great part of the province’s buildings originate, it was only possible to enter by horse or boat from Punta Arenas to the eastern coast of the Almirante Montt Gulf through the Señoret Canal or Last Hope Sound. Even this didn’t prevent the precarious formation of sheep herding that extended to the Sierra Baguales in the north, to the mountainous hills in the west and occupying towards the east the lands that after the Laudo of 1902 remained in Argentinian territory. This area, however, owing to the distant and coastal Atlantic, maintained strong commercial and social links with the province of Last Hope until the advance of the twentieth century. In the beginning of 1905, the Operating Society of Tierra del Fuego (SETF), bought the better part of the 500,000 hectares designated for sheepherding in the province, taking the place of the first landowners that had occupied those lands. In one decade, the SETF planned and brought about the construction of the origins of towns in Cerro Castillo, Cerro Guido, and the Bories Estate as well as a new network of roads and a train that transported its workers to and from Puerto Natales. The industrial establishment of Port Bories, today partly demolished, was one of the best hierarchies constructed in Chile at the beginning of the twentieth century, with a mixed architectural style of brick, wood and corrugated iron and a productive technology comparable to the industrial projects in Europe at that time.
conserve with great measure their spatial organization and distant warehouses for living, dining, offices and storage etc., with an esthetic austerity that remains united as a whole. Although dispersed in rural Last Hope, and of small proportions, there are many older parts such as those of Amarga Lagoon, Cerro Guido, Tres Pasos and what remains of Port Consuelo which all form the predecessors of the architectural inheritance of Last Hope. In the Señoret Canal, in the vicinity of the Natales River (where the city of Puerto Natales got its name), some corrals, homes and scattered warehouses were gradually constructed at the end of the nineteenth century. A hotel with a general store was built by the businessman Rudolfo Stubenrauch and another was constructed by the Spaniard José Iglesias. In order to regulate this spontaneous settlement, in 1900 the government established a 200 hectares reserve and then assumed a planned design for a new village with 77 sites, finally being decreed in 1911 by the Supreme Court that officially founded the city. From this time and from an amplification of the original nucleus that was carried out in 1935, this infrastructure is in its original form with its principal streets that head towards the water and that frequently head off the wind and rain. As testimony to the violent protests of 1919 and until the 1950’s, the majority of the workers were sheepherders from the meat packing plants of Port Bories and Port Natales and those with temporary work in the Argentine and Chilean estates. The urban landscape was therefore of a city with apple trees surrounding the plaza and buildings bordering it with a modest architecture made of wood and corrugated iron, similar to the peripheral neighborhoods of Punta Arenas, where they had in some areas buildings made up of two floors, such as that of the Municipal building in Puerto Natales. The parochial church was the only brick building of its time and it was the work of the Salesian priest Juan Bernabé (1930). However, the artistic capacity of its settlers coming from Chiloé succeeding in setting up social meeting places and commercial establishments with distinctive characteristics that are to this day maintained as a valuable inheritance that was extended and renovated in the last few years.
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Eberhard 226 Puerto Natales Patagonia Chile 09-5645547
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Despite the fiscal investments in service and equipment brought about through the creation of the Department of New Hope (1928), with architecture different from the regional traditions, Natales recovered its urban dynamism only two decades ago as a result of the fishing and tourism industries. Because of the natural beauty that Father Dagostini discovered in this area in 1917, the Torres del Paine National Park was formed and made popular in 1961.
The old parts of Cerro Castillo and the Bories Estate (today involved in other activities) are also an important inheritance given that they
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Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile ph+56-61 415749
18 Patagonia Street Smarts by Thomas S. Daly
As you pass from street to street, be
(March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and
it in Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas, navigating
BLANCO ENCALADA The first Commander of the Chilean
with your trusty street-map, do you ever wonder
Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in
to yourself why most of the street names are
Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land
CHORRILLOS The site of the first battle in the wave
surnames and who these people actually are?
of his Chilean mother as his home. A great
to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881).
Well, names of past Chilean Presidents have
political figure who was President of the Re-
provided some, but as well as these guys they
public for a mere two months in 1826.
also honour people and places with great signifi-
later captured Lima (Jan 1881).
BALMACEDA José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal
KRUGER Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area in the name of Argentina. Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentinans left without a fuss. Due to
anticlerical group prevented Argentina entering
this event the Chilean government populated
the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of
Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future at-
over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in
the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide
tempts by the Argentine navy.
1839, secured his personal victory of becoming
reform program which led to civil war. He later
President of the Republic (1841-1851).
fled to Argentina where he committed
PILOTO PARDO Captain Luis Pardo was a sailor who risked
suicide.
his life, and those of his men to rescue the 22
cance in their historic development.
BULNES Manuel Bulnes, His military victory
Here are a few principal street names from Puerto Natales. . . LADRILLEROS Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor
ARTURO PRATT A valiant naval captain who died at
who in 1557 was sent by the Spanish govern-
the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded
EBERHARD Captain Hermann Eberhard was an
ment to find a sea exit from the Magellan
a Peruvian Ironclad ship, accompanied by only
explorer and first settler of the Province of
Yelcho”, had no double hull, no heating, no
Straits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food,
one sergeant.
Ultima Esperanza. He named the hill that over-
electric light and no radio. Despite the coura-
looks Puerto Natales after his first daughter,
geous acts of this man and his crew, Shackle-
DOROTEA; And from his second daughter
ton mentioned Pardo´s name only once in his
Sofia, he named Lago SOFIA. In 1892 was it
386 page book, in the preface!
energy and the loss of many men he decided that the voyage into the body of water that sur-
ESMERALDA The name of Capt Arturo Pratt´s ship
rounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope
in the Battle of Iquique.
in reaching their goal; hence the name Ultima
PEDRO MONTT Son of the President Manuel Montt
tain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first
of prehistoric animals were found including
Towers, and himself became President
visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glaciar.
saber-toothed tigres, camels, deer and of course
of the Republic between 1906-1910.
On arrival he named it Francisco Gomaz
the Milodon. Today the Eberhard family
in honour of the expedition patron. Many years
still lives on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo.
TOMAS ROGERS Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Cap-
Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years!
together with Jose de San Martin crossed from
later the Argentineans renamed it in honour
Argentina with a Chilean-Argentine army
of Perito Francisco P. Moreno, an Argentine
and finally drove out the Spanish. He restored
hydrographer.
Chile´s independence and became Chile´s first President in 1818.
BAQUEDANO General Manuel Baquedano, defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413360 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
leton Expedition 1915-16). His tugboat “The
ered the famous Milodon Cave, where remains
Esperanza (Last Hope). Incidentally the
O´HIGGINS The Liberator Bernardo O´Higgins
was actually one of his workers who discov-
castaways from the ENDURANCE (Shack-
Kooch; el creador de la Patagonia Entre los más hermosos relatos pertenecientes a la cosmovisión del pueblo Aónikenk o Tehuelche (pueblo nómade, cazador y recolector que habitaba la región a la llegada de los Europeos junto con los kaweskar y yamanas de los canales australes y los Selk’nam de Tierra del Fuego), se encuentra el relato de la creación de la Patagonia por manos de Kooch, al cual se debería la existencia de sus inconfundibles elementos... el mar, la luz, el sol, el viento, las nubes y la vida sobre la tierra... este relato nos habla también de la cercana relación de este pueblo con la Patagonia vasta y diversa, dependiendo para su subsistencia de los recursos naturales, animales y vegetales aquí existentes. “...Dicen los antiguos que hace muchísimo tiempo no había tierra, ni mar, ni sol..... Solamente existía la densa y húmeda oscuridad de las tinieblas...En medio de ella vivía, eterno Kòoch. Nadie sabe por que, un día Kòoch, que siempre había estado “bastado a si mismo”, se sintió muy solo y se puso a llorar, lloró tantas lagrimas, durante tanto tiempo que con su llanto formo el mar, el inmenso océano donde la vista se pierde... Cuando Kòoch se dio cuenta de que el agua crecía y que estaba a punto de cubrirlo todo, dejo de llorar y suspiro. Y ese suspiro tan hondo fue el primer viento, que empezó a soplar constantemente, abriéndose paso entre la niebla y la oscuridad, así Kooch creo la luz...Algunos dicen que fue así, por los empujones del viento, que la niebla se disipo, otros creen que en la oscuridad, Kooch levanto el brazo y con su gesto
by V. Irribarra
hizo un enorme tajo en las tinieblas. Dicen también que el giro de su mano origino una chispa, y que esa chispa se convirtió en el sol, Xàleshen, como llamaban los tehuelches al gran astro, el cual se levanto sobre el mar e ilumino ese paisaje magnifico. A su vez, Xaleshen formo las nubes, que de allí en masa se pusieron a vagar, incansables, por el cielo matizando el agua con su sombra, pintándola con grandes manchones oscuros... Luego Kòoch se dedico a su obra maestra. Primero hizo surgir del agua una isla muy grande, y luego dispuso allí los animales, los pájaros, los insectos y los peces. Y el viento, el sol y las nubes encontraron tan hermosa la obra de Kòoch que se pusieron de acuerdo para hacerla perdurar: el sol iluminaba y calentaba la tierra, las nubes dejaban caer la lluvia bienhechora, el viento se moderaba para dejar crecer los pastos... la vida era dulce en la pacífica isla de Kòoch. Entonces el creador, satisfecho, se alejo cruzando el mar. A su paso hizo surgir otra tierra cercana y se marcho rumbo al horizonte, de donde nunca mas volvió...” Leyenda Popular del Pueblo Aónikenk Este relato mágico es una invitación de los antiguos para que durante tu estadía en la Patagonia contemples sus hermosos paisajes donde los diferentes elementos se entremezclan caprichosos para entregarnos colores, luces y formas siempre cambiantes...y tal vez la próxima ves que observes la pampa, el mar o las montañas australes recordaras que detrás de ellos esta la benevola mano de Kooch...
19
Castores en Magallanes y daño ecológico Noventa mil son los castores que invaden la región de Magallanes. Los castores provocan graves daños ecológicos y económicos al país. El Servicio Agrícola y Ganadero (SAG) decidió establecer un plan que, entre otras cosas, permite la caza de diez mil ejemplares por año, así como la venta de su carne y sus pieles. Esta exótica especie fue introducida a Tierra del Fuego en 1946 por productores de pieles, los que se encontraban instalados en la zona del Lago Fagnano, en territorio argentino. Al cerrar la fabrica decidio liberar las parejas de castores los que rapidamente se propagaron por Argentina y Chile. Los castores son roedores, pero no roedores comunes y corrientes. De hecho, son semiacuáticos, y su anatomía está adaptada para la vida en el agua, ya que tienen pies palmeados y cola aplanada. Nativos de América del Norte y de Europa, son los únicos miembros de la familia Castoriade que contiene un sólo género: Castor. De color marrón, excepto por su cola que es negra, son grandes arquitectos: talan árboles y embalsan las corrientes de agua para hacer lagos, en los cuales se ponen a salvo. Los diques que son capaces de construir llegan a medir ¡más de 500 m. de largo!, y son tan resistentes que soportan el peso de una persona. Se alimentan de corteza de árboles y hojas, y almacenan ramas bajo el agua para el invierno. Duermen en un enorme montículo de ramas, que construyen justo al centro de este lago. Y son muy pillos: las entradas a estos lagos están justo bajo el agua, de tal forma que pueden entrar y salir sin ser vistos. Los castores son realmente inteligentes y trabajadores!!. Abundan en el sur de Tierra del Fuego, cerca de Puerto Williams y en todas las islas del Canal Beagle, hasta tocar el mar de Drake, la población de castores en Magallanes, se estima hoy en ¡90 mil ejemplares!, cuya mayor actividad se registra en primavera y verano.
La construcción de sus “represas”, causan graves alteraciones en el ecosistema natural, desviando los cursos de agua e inundando extensas áreas de bosques de lenga y coigüe. Así se han destruido milenarios bosques nativos en la región de Magallanes y se han originado cuantiosas pérdidas económicas. Pero eso no es todo, ya que, al alterarse el curso de los ríos y esteros, se provoca un anegamiento que trae como consecuencia la pérdida de praderas para el ganado. Un castor adulto puede llegar a pesar hasta ¡27 kilos! y modificar, con sus hábitos de vida, el paisaje de cientos de hectáreas de bosques y ríos. A raíz de todos estos estragos, el Servicio Agrícola y Ganadero (SAG) decidió autorizar la caza de diez mil ejemplares por año, así como también la venta de su carne y sus pieles. La meta del gobierno es que en el plazo de tres años se eliminen 5.000 ejemplares de la dañina especie, pero las autoridades reconocen que exterminarlos a todos es casi imposible. Fuentes: Servicio Agrícola Ganadero Revista Familia: www.familia.cl
GOLDEN DRAGON
R E S TA U R A N T
Bulnes 439 - Puerto Natales M anuel Señoret 908 - Punta Arenas
Ph +56-61 413110 Ph +56-61 241663
Twin Rooms Double Rooms Library Restaurant
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Isla Morena
Tomás Rogers 38 - Puerto Natales, Chile - (56-61) 414773
www.chileaustral.com itat@mixmail.com
Lib. Bernardo O’Higgins - Puerto Arturo Prat, Punta Arenas, Chile ph241022 puerto@terra.cl
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Lago Deseado , Tierra del Fuego, Chile
Where the Wild Things Are It sounds like common sense to those of us who grew up trekking and camping, but if you do the “W” or circuit or even a Photo Safari it’s soon apparent that the common sense rule isn’t always followed. Feeding local wild animals has hazardous side effects. The food that’s offered to animals is often processed or just plain “junk food”, this is unnatural for wild animals. After a generation or two of handouts, animals lose their hunting
edge and end up suffering during the long winter season without human intrusion. These wild animals become accustomed to people they end up becoming a nuisance or even a threat, this often results in relocation at best, at worst -death! So matter what you see people do in the park - Please keep your sandwich to yourself and DON”T FEED THE ANIMALS!
rs ade e R 1 # e oic Ch
ph. +56-61 225889 Open all day
Feeling Dirty...? The Milodon Laundry Service
Dropped before noon for same day return Open 10am-12pm & 2:30pm-8:00pm Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642
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www.aquaterrapatagonia.com Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales February 2007
20 The new age of responsible travel & living by Sarah Rutter If you’re here in Puerto Natales to visit the Torres del Paine National Park, you might be here just because it’s on the “must do” list of places to visit in South America. But it is more likely that you’re here to experience the natural beauty of the place – the breathtaking view of Los Cuernos towering above the turquoise waters of Lake Nordenskjöld, the simple majesty of Las Torres viewed from the Lookout point Las Torres, the imposing presence of Paine Grande crowned by an impossibly white glacier. And if you have that appreciation for the natural world, then maybe to a greater or lesser extent you share a concern for its wellbeing. The Torres del Paine National Park, like all National Parks around the world, is an ambassador for our planet, a reminder of the untameable power and the raw beauty of nature; multi-faceted, simple yet at the same time impossibly complex and well beyond the ken of mankind. Parks such as this one also offer sanctuary to the natural world from the steady, unstoppable advance of man. Pause for a minute and compare this place with your own hometown. If you’re a city dweller, your thoughts may well be of paved streets, tall buildings, traffic jams, rush and bustle – a life a world away from the clear, pristine landscapes of this enchanted Park, but part of the same planet, a planet in need of the care and protection of every one of us. It is easy to look at the frightening pace of technological progress in the West and the newly awakening, insatiable appetite for development in the East, and throw our hands up in resignation. What can we do? What
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P atagonia
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impact can any one individual have? True, there are overwhelming forces at work which seriously threaten our natural world and over which we have little if any influence. But if the actions of each individual are combined with those of other individuals, they really can make a difference. This doesn’t mean changing your life – being conscious of the environmental impact of your day-to-day activities and making small changes to reduce that impact is a good place to start. Here are some ideas for while you’re travelling as well as for the longer term: 1…If the water supply is drinkable, refill your water bottle from the tap (or in the Park from any of the fast-flowing mountain streams), rather than buy new plastic bottles of mineral water each time. Plastics are derived from non-renewable resources, processed using extensive chemical treatments, so as well as being non- biodegradable, they are very environmentally-damaging to produce. Every plastic bottle you throw away is a waste of precious resources. 2…Dispose of used batteries responsibly. Discarded batteries, once they start to break down, leak metals and poisons which can enter watercourses and kill plants and wildlife. Even throwing your batteries in the bin means they end up in a landfill site or worse, disposed of offshore, and will have the same damaging effect there. Look for battery collection schemes, like the one run by Fundación Patagonia (www.fundacionpatagonia.cl) in Puerto Natales.
3…Avoid buying pre-packaged food in the supermarket, buy loose fruit, vegetables and meat to cut down on the packaging you consume. Packaging uses a lot of natural resources and generally goes straight into the bin once you get home. 4…Take your own bag to the supermarket so you don’t need to use the plastic bags provided. Plastic bags cannot be recycled and take hundreds of years to biodegrade, so every one you use is adding to the millions that exist already and are filling our landfill sites or worse, littering the countryside. And every one will still be here long after your lifetime.
And once you get back home… 1…Investigate insulating your home as efficiently as possible. This will not only save you money in reduced heating bills but means you will also use less of the planet’s resources. It’s worth checking to see if your government offers grants for home insulation and upgrades to boilers/ heating systems to help meet the emissions targets set by the Kyoto agreement and others. 2…Energy-saving light bulbs are a good step too, but admittedly rather ugly. You could always hide them with a funky lampshade… 3…Look into available sources of “green” energy for your home. The vast majority of household electricity-generation still uses scarce fossil fuels and generates harmful greenhouse gases. Other options include solar or wind power, which on a small, domestic scale can be very expensive. Alternatively in some countries “green” electricity providers, which generate some if not all of their power through renewable sources, are now entering the market. 4…Ideally the fewer resources you use the better, but obviously we all use some. So whatever you do use and throw out each week, try to recycle as much as possible, be it paper, glass, plastic, tin or any other material. Look for recycling services in your area, which will give you advice on how to incorporate recycling in your home. 5…Unfortunately one of the biggest culprits of environmental damage is travel, especially air
travel. As most of us here are far from home and will need to take at least one flight to get back to family and friends, we’ll avoid the guilt trip here. One way to make amends is to join a “carbon neutralisation” or “carbon-sink” scheme, in which you can pay for trees to be planted on your behalf to absorb carbon released into the environment as a result of your action. Have a look at www.futureforests.com or www. CO2.org for more information. There are many ways to live a more environmentally aware life; the aim here is to simply to provide a good starting point, or at least to get you thinking. So as you continue on to your next destination, may you take with you vivid memories of all you have experienced in this magical place and may they inspire you to care for our fragile planet, on whose well-being this Park, the natural world and our own future depend.
Trail Tips... Fuel Efficiency While trying to pack light, taking your fuel into consideration helps. Bringing more fuel then you really need just means more weight to carry. On the other side of the coin, not enough fuel can cause problems. Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel. 1. Don´t over boil your water, it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you are ready to start a boil is also only heating the fresh air. 2. Use a lid on your pot. It holds the heat in and allows for a faster boil. 3, Use a wind screen. Wind will carry your heat from under your pot and redirect it from your food. Using a wind shield will aim the heat up and under your pot. If you don´t have a aluminum wind screen, rock from your campsite will also help protect your heat. -4. Many outdoor manufactures (such as MSR) now make heat exchangers that fit around your pot as an insulation. Between this and a wind screen, you can cook in almost any conditions.
21
Skiing in Chile photos & text by Brian Wiley it’ll dump up to a meter of snow overnight. You’ll be ripping fresh powder all day long and loving life. But be prepared for these conditions by carrying some necessary items. First of all, you’ll need goggles that help you see better in flat light. Many of the ski areas here have no trees and during a white-out you can easily become disoriented. If you plan on doing backcountry skiing you should not go without a shovel, probe and beacon or transmit-
Torres del Paine National Park Mountain Shelters : Grey - Dickson Campings: Grey - Dickson - Los Perros
Cama - Ducha - Comidas - Bar / Bed - Shower - Meals - Bar - Rental Equipment
ter. Also, have some knowledge of
Reservas para todos los refugios y Programas con full servicio - Bus Regular al Parque Reservations for all the shelters & Full Service Programs - Regular Bus to the Park
avalanche safety and if you do not
andescape@terra.cl +56-61 412592
feel comfortable please hire one of the many guiding services that are available in Chile and Argentina. Do you like access to huge ski areas that have hotels, bars, discotheques
HOTEL ALCAZAR
and other luxuries? Go to Las Lenas, Argentina; Portillo, Chile; Cerro
How is the skiing and snowboarding
Catedral outside of Bariloche, Argen-
here in South America? What is the snow like?
tina; Valle Nevado, La Parva, and El Colorado
Are there smaller ski centers that have fewer
outside of Santiago.
crowds? Where can I find backcountry access?
Do you prefer a more off-the-beaten track type
I’ve guided ski tours in Chile and Argentina for
of area? Go to Termas de Chillan, Chile; Pucon
years and have put together a few suggestions
and Antillanca, Chile; La Hoya, Cerro Bayo,
so that you can start planning your next winter
and Chapelco in Argentina.
vacation to South America.
...with all private bathrooms M.Balmaceda 722 • 412889 hotelalcazar@gmail.com
Ski Patagonia The ski season in most of South America typi-
Why not ski at the bottom of the world? Go to
cally runs from mid-June until mid-September.
the beautiful town of Ushuaia, Argentina and
Many ski areas will open early if they have the
ski at Cerro Castor which is about a 30 minute
snow, while others will end their season on a
bus ride from town. You will be amazed by the
specific date not dependent on conditions.
fantastic views and steep terrain. Half of the ski area is above the tree line and that’s where
To avoid long lift lines and bigger crowds aim
you’ll find some great off-piste backcountry
to ski in August and September. Mid to late July
stashes. If you are a bit more adventurous you
is vacation time for most residents of South
can hire local guides to take you to untouched
America resulting in long lift lines and heated
backcountry lines nearby - just be prepared to
ski pole fights among groups of kids in line.
hike for a couple hours to get at it. Cerro Castor lays claim to the title of being open latest in the
South American powder is mostly light and
season until mid-October.
fluffy. And, yes you will run into times when Down the road in Punta Arenas you can ski at the Club Andino de Punta Arenas. This ski area has great views of Punta Arenas and Strait of Magellan. There usually aren’t any crowds here, and you’ll enjoy skiing runs lined by lengua trees. At the top you can take off your board or skis and take in the panoramic view of the region. Your first step to skiing in Chile and Argentina is to do an internet search under the same topic where you’ll encounter websites from guiding companies, ski centers and transport that want you experience this sprouting sector of winter tourism in South America.
February 2007
Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile Phone / Fax 56•61•415285
Mmmm...
Handmade Chocolate Gourmet Espresso Real Hot Chocolate
22
Hostel Recycling for Eco-friendly travelers
Thinking Globally, Acting Locally. -The Recycling Pages
Recycling in Puerto Natales
Recycling takes place all over the world; in different ways and at very different levels. It is important, because it ensures using less sparse space in landfills, but even more because recycling puts less pressure on limited resources, mainly by the more energy friendly production process of for example glass, aluminum and plastic products. In Puerto Natales, recycling is a relatively new phenomenon. This is not only because of a lack of attention and awareness; an even more important factor has been the missing recycling infrastructure. Just separating your garbage does not take you that far if there is no service to collect separated items nor infrastructure to bring them to a recycling plant. Definitely, there have been a lot of initiatives that have formed the basis for the current achievements in the area of recycling. Fundación Patagonia has been collecting batteries for a couple of years know, Don Ramon Gomez helped making a start of glass recycling, by collecting glass bottles separately and using his terrain to store them. Other initiatives have been taken by Don Juan Navarro Guenten who collects aluminum cans and café/restaurant El Living that has been sending carton boxes for recycling to Santiago. All these good initiatives together and the apparent will of people and businesses in
Puerto Natales to help recycling become reality, has resulted in extending the separated collection of glass, to collection of plastic bottles, aluminum cans and tetra pak. From the 1st of February onwards, every Wednesday afternoon after 14:30, Don Ramon Gomez will make sure a truck makes a round through Puerto Natales to pick up these four separated items at over 25 places restaurants, bars and hostels. Furthermore, households or businesses along the route that want to join can put their glass, plastic bottles, aluminum cans and drink cartons outside to be picked up. If you’re not on the route, but want to join this initiative please contact Ramon Gomez 99189364 or kachaera@zcinternet. cl or Marjan Alkema 91408006 or marjanalkema@hotmail.com Did you know..? .. there are more than 8 kinds of plastics that have to be separated from each other to be able to recycle them? .. Natales produces about 9 tons of plastic in waste every MONTH!? .. more than half of all waste we produce is organic and could be able to used as compost and produce fertilizer?
Local business Erratic rock wanted to make recycling visible. They wanted to find an easy wayto give their guests the possibility to participate without having to think about it. They want to recycle everything that is now possible in Puerto Natales; batteries, glass, plastic bottles, aluminum cans and drink cartons, but are confronted with limited space in the hostel kitchen to do so. With help from travellers on a sunny afternoon, efforts where joined and the ‘Recycle Center’ was born. An easy way to separate the recycles in the kitchen, without confusion or complications. With the new possibilities for recycling present in Puerto Natales, we like to invite everybody; hostels, households and businesses to join this initiative for easy recycling. For more information on how to get your own recycle center contact erratic rock 410355 or Marjan Alkema 91408006
Miscellaneous Recycling Facts More than 20,000,000 Hershey’s Kisses are wrapped each day, using 133 square miles of aluminum foil. All that foil is recyclable, but not many people realize it. Rainforests are being cut down at the rate of 100 acres per minute! A single quart of motor oil, if disposed of improperly, can contaminate up to 2,000,000 gallons of fresh water. Motor oil never wears out, it just gets dirty. Oil can be recycled, re-refined and used again. On average, each one of us produces 4.4 pounds of solid waste each day. This adds up to almost a ton of trash per person, per year. A typical family consumes 182 gallons of soda, 29 gallons of juice, 104 gallons 26 recycled PET bottles equals a polyester suit. 5 recycled PET bottles make enough fiberfill to stuff a ski jacket. About one-third of an average dump is made up of packaging material.
Hotel Posada Tres Pasos Your country hotel...
The U.S. is the #1 trash-producing country in the world at 1,609 pounds per person per year. This means that 5% of the world’s people generate 40% of the world’s waste. The highest point in Ohio State, USA is “Mount Rumpke,” which is actually a mountain of trash at the Rumpke sanitary landfill.
The US population discards each year 16,000,000,000 diapers, 1,600,000,000 pens, 2,000,000,000 razor blades, 220,000,000 car tires, and enough aluminum to rebuild the US commercial air fleet four times over. The energy saved from recycling one glass bottle can run a 100-watt light bulb for four hours. It also causes 20% less air pollution and 50% less water pollution than when a new bottle is made from raw materials. A modern glass bottle would take 4000 years or more to decompose -- and even longer if it’s in the landfill. Mining and transporting raw materials for glass produces about 385 pounds of waste for every ton of glass that is made. If recycled glass is substituted for half of the raw materials, the waste is cut by more than 80%. An aluminum can that is thrown away will still be a can 500 years from now! There is no limit to the amount of times an aluminum can can be recycled. Once an aluminum can is recycled, it can be part of a new can within six weeks. Approximately 1 billion trees worth of paper are thrown away every year in the U.S. Recycling aluminum takes only 5% of the energy needed to manufacture it from raw material.
Where do our recycles go?
Tel:(56) (2) 1969630
reservas@hotel3pasos.cl Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile
KAWESKAR
HOSTEL
...and the backpackers shall inherit the earth... Blanco Encalada 754 · 414553 Puerto Nartales, Chile www.patagoniablacksheep.com
NIKO’S II A d v e n t u r e Tr a v e l A g e n c y
*Regular Daily buses to Torres del Paine *Regular One Day Tours to Torres del Paine *Excursions to Torres Base
www.nikostwoadventure.com Phillipi 528 - Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 413543
Glas – This material can be used over and over again. Right now there are over 25 businesses in Puerto Natales, mostly restaurants, bars and hostels that participate in glass recycling. The glass is send to Foundation Coaniquem that sells it. The profit supports the foundation, that helps children with burns with their rehabilitation and works in the prevention of burns as well. Aluminum Cans – There have been some initiatives to collect aluminum cans for recycling in Puerto Natales. Don Juan Navarro Guenten has been collecting them on Saturdays. The cans collected from restaurants are sent to Temuco via the Navimag boat for recycling into new cans. From February onwards it is also possible to put your cans at the side of the road, helping the re-use of aluminum. Drink Cartons –With the recycling of drink cartons you are not only helping the environment, but also supporting the foundation
‘Un Techo Para Chile’. The material is recycled into panels that are used to build houses for families to improve their living conditions. Plastic Bottles – Plastic is one of the most difficult products to recycle. To do so you have to separate the different kinds of plastic, which makes it much more complicated than recycling glass for example. Plastic bottles are one of the most easy to identify plastics. After reducing the plastic to powder it can be molded again into bottles or other type 1 plastics (PET). Batteries – Batteries contain heavy metals such as mercury, lead, cadmium, and nickel, which are very contaminating for the environment. Make sure you dispose of all your batteries in the Fundacion Patagonia boxes located in the post office and in some travel agencies around town. Otherwise they will go to the landfill site with all the rest of the rubbish!
23 Ban the Bags! These Puerto Natales businesses are already helping, by recycling their glass: Mandala Andino Remota Indigo Altiplano Torre Aquaterra Asador Patagonico Hostel Natales Emporio de la Pampa El Living Parilla Don Jorge Don Pepe La Ventana Azul Oveja Negra Los Viajeros Costa Australis Kaweskar Erratic Rock Weskar Turismo 21 de Mayo El Ruperto Chill-e Angelicas Mesita Grande La Tranquera Charles Darwin Milodon Patagonia Dulce
If you weren’t sleeping when getting here by bus, then you have probably seen the horrific sight of the “plastic bag graveyards” of this small city with little environmental awareness. Every small bush, big enough to catch some wind, is decorated with a thin flapping bag from the size of a milk carton to shopping bag size. These plastic monsters are distributed with every single article you buy in Puerto Natales, their sizes adapting to the size of your purchase. Every piece of fruit, every toothbrush or every postcard you buy will be enveloped with plastic, as long as you don’t object. An average weekly visit to the supermarket will bring you home with an average of 8 plastic bags!! This and the view of the surroundings of the town makes me feel as if everybody makes a sport of getting as many as they can and
make them fly as far as possible… So the idea for a project to eliminate the plastic bags from the stores in Puerto Natales was easily born. The Enviu foundation together with the Fundación Patagonia is taking steps to imply a system, in the largest supermarkets in town to start with firm reusable plastic bags, with an environmental educative message, that has to be paid a small amount of money for. This should eliminate a fair amount of the plastic bags that are being distributed every day and stimulate other shops to join the club. And then it is only a matter of cleaning up the graveyards in order to enjoy again the sight of yellow flowers en blue berries of the Calafate bushes surrounding Puerto Natales!
Other tips on using resources wisely:
Buy local If you would like some vegetables go to the local markets on Angamos (leading on from Baquedano) next to the local handicraft market. The mainly female farmers are part of a government funded project to provide Natales with local produce instead of relying on shipments from the north. They sell fresh, mainly organic produce grown on their small plots or in greenhouses just outside Natales. On offer at present you can find lettuce, cabbage, beetroot, potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, coriander, parsley, radishes, courgettes some strawberries and free range eggs as well as rhubarb jam. You can also donate your spare plastic bags to them. Open 10-1 and in the afternoons after 3. Only a few open on Sundays.
Water Yes you can drink the local water- it is safe and does not need to be boiled or treated. In restaurants ask for “agua de la llave”. Some tourists have reported that restaurants won´t serve tap water and insist on them buying agua mineral. Don´t let them get away with it! Plastic bags Yes they are very useful for camping but if you don´t need them resist the double bagging that goes on in the supermarkets here. Often each product gets a new bag too. These bags usually end up in the trees here having been blown by the wind.
Perjudicial efecto del calentamiento de la Tierra en la Antártica El calentamiento global de la Tierra ha comenzado a hacerse sentir en los hielos de la Antártica, donde se ha producido un repliegue de la mayoría de sus grandes glaciares. La investigación, realizada por científicos estadounidenses y británicos, indicó que de un total de 244 glaciares marinos, un 87 por ciento ha registrado una retracción en los últimos 50 años, periodo en el que la temperatura ha aumentado 2,5 grados centígrados. Según los científicos, ese repliegue o empequeñecimiento se ha debido principalmente a la pérdida de las plataformas de hielo flotantes en los extremos de cada uno de esos enormes ríos de agua dulce congelada que terminan en el mar. El estudio realizado por científicos del Consejo de Investigaciones del Ambiente del Instituto Antártico Británico y el Instituto Geológico de EEUU constató que en los últimos años del siglo XX se han retirado al menos diez plataformas de hielo. “Debido a que sabemos que la pérdida de estas plataformas puede causar una aceleración de los glaciares, las observaciones sugieren que la pérdida acumulativa en el frente de los glaciares puede conducir a un mayor drenaje de la Península Antártica que es mayor de lo que se pensaba hasta ahora”. Al igual que otros estudios sobre el calentamiento global, que han pronosticado que la causa principal es la acumulación de gases invernadero (particularmente dióxido de carbono), los científicos indicaron que el acelerado repliegue de los glaciares y su descenso sobre el océano podría aumentar el nivel de los mares. La desaparición de otras plataformas “podría incrementar más aún el desequilibrio y hacer con ello una contribución sustancial al aumento del nivel oceánico”, señalaron los científicos en el informe sobre su investigación. La retirada de los glaciares debida a la descongelación se ha generalizado después de comenzar en el extremo norte y el sector más cálido de la península Antártica para extenderse hacia la tierra firme del continente helado donde las temperaturas son más frías. La rapidez con que se ha producido el fenómeno sugiere que el calentamiento global no es el único factor que lo ha provocado y agregan que otro podría ser el cambio de temperatura marina. Aun cuando ocurriría de manera gradual en el curso de varias décadas, un mayor nivel del mar despojaría de tierras costeras a muchos países y territorios, además de influir en la climatología de todo el planeta, han advertido los científicos. Extracto de revista “Science”
...run by backpackers, not buisness men.
Bories House in Patagonia but not entirely of it. Go there to get away without leaving it all behind.
Downtown Punta Arenas
Reservations: (+56-61) 412221 Puerto Bories 13b, Puerto Natales, Chile www.borieshouse.com · info@borieshouse.com
Call 221982
Free transfer service from Puerto Natales
* * * H o r s e R i d i n g Av a i l a b l e * * * February 2007
www.aonikenk.com Magallanes 619
The penguin connection.
Join the rucksack revolution. baquedano 719 Purto Natales, Chile
24
Patagonia Expedition Race The adventure at the end of the world
The PATAGONIA EXPEDITION RACE is an international sports event that combines the spirit of expedition and adventure. It´s a voyage to the faraway, to the unknown, to virgin and wild territories, which make teamwork essential. It´s a race characterized by the mystics of exploring, discovering and dealing with untamed nature. It´s the adventure at the end of the world. In every edition, there is a new route in the geographic area between 49º and 56º Southern Latitude. An extensive area where you can find the Southern Ice Field, Torres del Paine National
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Park, the Strait of Magellan, Tierra del Fuego, the Darwin Range, the Beagle Channel and Cape Horn. The race goes through very diverse landscapes with strong climatic contrasts. To compete, mixed groups of four are formed that have to find their way through mountains, glacial valleys, native forests, swamp areas, rivers, lakes and canals. Fundamental disciplines are: mountain biking, trekking, kayaking, orientation, rope management, team work and strategy. In the three summer editions (2004, 2005 and 2006) athletes from 16 different countries have raced: The United States, Canada, New
Zealand, South Africa, Denmark, Sweden, Russia, Spain, France, Germany, Great Britain, Czech Republic, Colombia, Uruguay, Argentina and Chile. Next edition: The 11th of February 2007, the fourth edition of the PATAGONIA EXPEDITION RACE will start. In this new challenge athletes from Europe, North- and South America will race in the longest expedition in the history of expedition races. It will be 1.100 kilometres of adventure, up to 14 days of crossing the extreme south of Chilean Patagonia. For more information contact www.patagoniaexpeditionrace.com.