Volume 1 • Issue 1 • Dec 2005 • blacksheepchile@gmail.com
Black
FREE
Sheep
The Puerto Natales Organizer
History of Patagonia The last thousand years in a nutshell
Leather & Wind A report from the field page 14
10 Years of NOLS in Natales
WATCHING THE FIRE BURN The story behind last season’s Torres del Paine fire Cover photo by Diego Araya C.
HOTELS RESTAURANTS HOSTELS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURES
Welcome to Puerto Natales, Chile
Phone Numbers Puerto Natales, Chile
Police Fire Ambulance Hospital P.Arenas Hospital P.Natales Maritime Resue Areal Rescue CONAF Navimag P.Arenas Navimag P.Montt Lan Chile Sky Airlines DAP
132 133 131 205000 411582 137 137 130 244400 432300 6005262000 6006002828 223340
Published by Southern Cross Ltda.
Black Sheep • The Puerto Natales Organizer Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile blacksheepchile@gmail.com 56•61•412239 Production Editor • Ad Design: Rustyn ‘Matthias’ Mesdag Buisness Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar Irribarra Lead Staff Reporter • Photographer • Distribution: Hermann Klassen Copy Editor: Julia Gauvin & E. Blair Stone The Black Sheep is a independently and locally owned rag, inpsired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile. The heart of Patagonia. A big, warm, wooly thanks go out to all the black sheep who helped make this paper possible.
Cover photo by Diego Araya C. www.wildpatagonia.cl
Letter from the Editor
The letter from the editor is an interesting thing. It’s the moment when I get to write whatever I see fit.
Sort of my own little ‘freedom of expression’. Being that this is the first issue, I was thinking about the mission statement, or maybe a ‘Introducing the Black Sheep!’ speech... I dont think so. Not this time.
l
Table of Contents
Right now, what is really going through my mind? The paper? Patagonia in general? My new home I
page 2 ...............Important Phone Numbers Letter from the Editor
of all the international travelers out there, reading this, forming an opinion about the region, the town
page 3 ...................................All the Answers
have found here in Natales? No, not really. Maybe pondering what might be going through the heads or even this paper? No, not that either.
What I am really thinking about is my path. What brought me here? What decisions I made know-
The top 30 questions of Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine
ingly or unknowingly, that landed me in a funky old building, running a hostel, a guide service and now
page 4 ...............................A Look at the Past
3. Now, we all live, work, and play in Patagonia. These two boys will grow up in a international forum,
page 5 ...................................Coming Events
a english newspaper... in PATAGONIA! I look at my two young boys, Noah who is 6, and Finn who is
History of the people
with travellers from all over the world telling stories from where they came from, where they are going
page 6 ...................................Patagonia 101
world map. They will learn Spanish with no accent and understand Chile in a way, that I as an adult,
page 8 ..........................International Forum
and where they hope to land. They will hear a vast mix of foriegn acsents and where to find them on a am already too late for. I will always be from Salem, Oregon, no matter how long I live here in Chile.
But those boys, already on they’re third continent and third launguage (the third being Dutch), wow... thier possibilities and understanding of the modern world are endless.
So why did I choose to write about my boys? Well, because they are my boys. Any parent will understand. No matter what happens in the future, I’m sure I’ll save a copy of the first issue of the Black
Sheep, always remembering those years in Chile with my family. I want them to look back at this 20
year old, ratty paper from Southern Chile and know I was thinking about them. Who knows where they will be by then. They will probably end up as CIA agents... great. Or maybe permanate back-
Letters and comments from travelers in Patagonia
page 9 ............................ NOLS in Patagonia 10 years and going strong
page 10 ..................................Bus Schedules
Bus times for the gringo trail
page 11 ...........................................Opinions
packers (a bit like thier Dad). You know the type, living and working in differnt countries, owning only
page 12 .....................................Local to-do’s
hoping for the latter of the two options.)
page 13..................................Patagonia Five
choices are half chance... and so are everybody elses. CIA agent or dreadlocked hippy, focus on the tools
page 14 ...............................From the Saddle
what’s in there backpack and the big satisfied smile on thier face. (Being a devout Anti-bush-ist, I am
Noah, Finn... If I could pass you guys advice, it would be not to take this whole game too seriously. Your you have and master them. Life will do the rest. Who knows where you’ll end up,
Rustyn Mesdag -black sheep editor
page 2
Short ideas for Natales World-class animals
A report from the field
page 16 ...........................Puerto Natales Map blacksheepchile@gmail.com
Frequently asked questions
The top 30 Puerto Natales backpacker queries 0 Black Sheep • †he daily questions How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2.5 to 3.0 hours. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick up betwen 7am and 8am. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping cost 3.500 pesos per person, not per tent. Which ones are the free campings? Free camping are Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Seron, Coron, Los Perros and Paso. At time do the stores open in the morning
Dont count on the stores being open before 9:30am, even then… What about mid day? Between 12 and 3 you might as well nap too. Where can I buy food for the park? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located one block south from The big penguin,, The Don Bosco and Super Mix. are both one the main streets or Baquedano and Bulnes. Whats the weather going to be like for the next few days? Ha•ha! This one we just put in for fun! How cold does it get at night in the park? In the summer, not quite
freezing at night, but it can still get close sometimes. How much does the catmeran to Pehoe cost in the park? Catarmeran cost 10.000 pesos per person, oneway. How do I contact the parks Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no Search and Rescue in the park. …so I pay a enterance cost AND pay to camp? Yep. What are winters like here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. Is there food sold in the park? You can eat in the hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at the bigger refugios, but its more cost effective to buy all your food in town. Why is there so much garbage
299 Puerto Natales, Chile on the Bulnes beach? Phone 056 • 61 • 412239 That a very good question. www.aquaterrapatagonia.com Can I cook in the refugios? In...you the nicer, refugios foundbigger that warm, secret, you can usually find a gas stove cozy, spot that you were looking to uuse, but nofor.... real kitchen 02 facilities. Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure its fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a blacksheepchile@gmail.com camp or refugio.
Anything important we left out? Let us know ...
07
Experience Chile... Specializing in... traditional Chilean lamb asados, grilled meats, seafood and shellfish. Carlos Bories 430 •Phone 410999
•Located across from Plaza de Armas• december 2005
08 page 3
People
the discovery of the zone and much later the German pioneer Hermann Eberhard (1892-93) initiated the colonization the area.Even later the arrival of many Chilean people from the island of Chiloé put their seal of identity on this area called Patagonia. The Yamanas
The spirit of pioneers Marcela Suazo
The human presence in these remote lands repeats the thirst for adventure that has guided human beings since their origin.The first tribes of hunters that occupied these territories arrived 12.000 years ago. Only 6.000 years ago, the Kaweshkar canoers, along with the Aonikenk (ancient dwellers
of the plains), initiated the permanence and continuity of man in this corner of the planet. Soon after, the arrival of the Spanish captain Juan Ladrilleros (1557-58) marked
wv
The Yamanas or Yaghans, known as the canoeist of the Beagle, were the southernmost inhabitants in the world.They lived along the edges of the Beagle Channel, as well as neighbouring channels, as far south as Cape Horn. They were adapted to living on the coast, hunting southern sea lions for their principal source of food because of their high fat content. The Sélknam The Sélknam or Onas inhabited the steppes in the north and the woods in the south of Tierra del Fuego. Their way of life was very similar to that of the Aonikenk, although they never used horses. They hunted guanaco, wild birds and rodents. They lived in circular huts made of tree trunks covered with leather and sticks. The Sélknam were tall, formidable, and more aggressive in character than the other aboriginals. They died out having been displaced from their lands or eliminated by the colonists who
cleared the land in order to set up farms. The Kawéskar The Kawéskar. called the Alacalufes by the Spanish, lived spread out in small groups that traveled, via canoe, through the channels of the Archipelago. They inhabited the area stretching from the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Pains) to the Brecknock Peninsula, a very damp and rainy area with abundant vegetation. They hunted sea lions, otters and birds, as well as fished and collected shellfish and molluscs. They would take advantage of the meat and skin of any whale beached by the low tides. They built their canoes with pieces of cut bark tied together with vegetable fibers and sealed with a mixture of earth, clay, and roots. Their huts were made with wooden poles which were covered with sea lions skin. The Aonikenk The Aonikenk or Patagones inhabited the steppe from the River Santa Cruz in Argentina in the north to the Straight of Magellan in the south. They spent their time hunting rhea (Ñandú) and other birds, as well as the guanaco whose meat they ate and skin they used for clothing. Their homes were made using leather and wooden poles. All of the group participated in the hunt for guanaco and rheas. The women carried the tools and helped to strengthen the fencing used to isolate the animals so that they could be attacked by the men with “Boleadoras” and bows an arrows.
09
El Maritimo
Pedro Montt 214 • phone 414994
...dinner by the sea. page 4
18
Kooch; el creador de la Patagonia Entre los más hermosos relatos pertenecientes a la cosmovisión del pueblo Aónikenk o Tehuelche (pueblo nómade, cazador y recolector que habitaba la región a la llegada de los Europeos junto con los kaweskar y yamanas de los canales australes y los Selk’nam de Tierra del Fuego), se encuentra el relato de la creación de la Patagonia por manos de Kooch, al cual se debería la existencia de sus inconfundibles elementos... el mar, la luz, el sol, el viento, las nubes y la vida sobre la tierra... este relato nos habla también de la cercana relación de este pueblo con la Patagonia vasta y diversa, dependiendo para su subsistencia de los recursos naturales, animales y vegetales aquí existentes. “...Dicen los antiguos que hace muchísimo tiempo no había tierra, ni mar, ni sol..... Solamente existía la densa y húmeda oscuridad de las tinieblas...En medio de ella vivía, eterno Kòoch. Nadie sabe por que, un día Kòoch, que siempre había estado “bastado a si mismo”, se sintió muy solo y se puso a llorar, lloro tantas lagrimas, durante tanto tiempo que con su llanto formo el mar, el inmenso océano donde la vista se pierde... Cuando Kòoch se dio cuenta de que el agua crecía y que estaba a punto de cubrirlo todo, dejo de llorar y suspiro. Y ese suspiro tan hondo fue el primer viento, que empezó a soplar constantemente, abriéndose paso entre la niebla y la oscuridad, así Kooch creo la luz... Algunos dicen que fue así, por los empujones del viento, que la niebla se disipo, otros creen que en la oscuridad, Kooch levanto el brazo y con su gesto hizo un enorme tajo en las tinieblas. Dicen también que el giro de su mano origino una chispa, y que esa chispa se convirtió en el sol, Xàleshen, como llamaban los tehuelches al gran astro, el cual se levanto sobre el mar e ilumino ese paisaje magnifico. A su vez, Xaleshen formo las nubes, que de allí en masa se blacksheepchile@gmail.com
Coming Events December 2005 • January 2006
December 1
December 11
First issue Black Sheep released to the
dential Elections Three finalists are in
Christmas celebrations to be held in
world.
the last weeks of campaigning to re-
the two main plazas of Natales.
December 8 Immacu-
place Chile’s moderate socialist Presi-
Christmas Day
dent Ricardo Lagos, who will end his
the 24th, offices tend to function for a
late Conception officially observed. Focus is on the Virgen de lo Vasquez whose shrine is located between Santiago and Valparaiso. Thousands of Pilgrims walk as far as 50k to pay homage to her, many covering the final five or
Presi-
constitutionally mandated single five year term. Governments and their constituencies thoughout the Americas are particularly enthralled with this race as the leader in the polls is a woman, Michelle Bachelet.
December 20-24
On
half day only, but shops are generally open until as late as 8pm. The 25th is not an official holiday.
December 26-30 Shoreline Festival - Music on the beach. Celebrations to begin in the afternoon.
six kilometers barefoot or even on their
December 13
knees as an act of penance. This event
Municipality of Puerto Natales will
draws additional tens of thousands of
be holding a day of games and activi-
spectators to simply witness this un-
ties for the children of the surround-
common display of religious intensity.
ing areas.
The
New Years Day
On
the 31st, offices tend to function for a half day only, but shops remain open until as late as 8pm. Then the party
Mmmmm... Handmade Chocolate Gourmet Espresso Real Hot Chocolate
starts.
Post coming events for free! email to blacksheepchile@gmail.com
Para solicitar su aviso publicitario llame al fono 412239 Welcome to the Historical Municipal Museum of Puerto Natales
04
Hostel Oro Fueguino
Museum Hours Monday to Friday 8:00 - 19:00 Saturday 10:00-13:00 and 15:00 – 20:00 Entry Fee ( national currency ) International $ 1000 National adult visitors $ 500 Children up to 12 years old free of charge 285 Bulnes Street phone (56-61) 411263 or 411129 annex 148 e-mail museonat23mail.cl
Phone/FAX (56-61) 246677 Celular 09-1619890
Fagnano 356
The origin of this museum dates back to the 25th of April, 1990 when the first collection for the museum was organized on the iniciative of the Carabineros de Chile ( Policemen of Chile) as well as the valuable collaboration of the neighbors of Puerto Natales. The same year of its creation, it became the responsability of the Illustrious
december 2005
Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile Phone / Fax 56•61•415265 contacto@patagoniadulce.cl
Punta Arenas - CHILE
Reservations: orofueguino@terra.cl www.orofueguino.com page 5
Patagonia 101 by Jon Shea
Patagonia. The name alone quickens the pulse and sets the imagination in motion. Patagonia. It has been a place of adventure, trial and discovery for hundreds of years. A truly unique region, Patagonia has both an astounding environment and an equally engaging history. Dictated mostly by the accumulation, movement and ablation of ice, Patagonia boasts some of the world’s most sculpted landscapes. From the Torres Del Paine to Los Cuernos Mt. Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, huge granite towers shroud the area in an air of grandeur. Dramatic fjords divide the west coast of Patagonia into an array of inlets and islands created by the cutting power of glacial melt. Patagonia’s latitude between 39 and 55 degrees
Colors,
flavors,
scents...
Resto•Bar
Lunch • dinner • drinks
Phone 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales 02 page 6
south, combined with the cold temperatures influenced by the Humboldt Current off of Chile’s coast, have caused Patagonia to develop the largest ice sheets in the southern hemisphere today outside of Antarctica. These ice sheets dominated the landscape periodically for thousands of years and their consequent movement has chiseled out the finer features of the region. The stark natural beauty of the area, combined with the unrelenting weather, has made this place famous around the globe. It is a place in which to truly observe the awesome power of nature.
least 1914, it took some years before the monster towers of Patagonia were climbed. The 1950s may have been the biggest decade for Patagonian exploration and climbing. In 1952, the famous Mt. Fitzroy saw its first ascent by Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone.
years, no camera or any other evidence of their reaching the summit has ever been produced. With well over 20 attempts to repeat this route, no one to this day has been able to conquer the upper north face, adding to the doubt surrounding the first ascent. Also in 1959, Shipton completed another expedition near the southern ice field, rediscovering the Lautaro volcano, which had been forgotten for 30 years.
Subsequent years saw more and more exploration and first ascents by Shipton and his peers. Patagonia has now become an international destination for any serious photo by Rodrigo Fuica climber looking for Famed English explorer H.W. long alpine routes. The weather Tillman completed the first is most often the limiting factor The dramatic scenery found traverse of the South Patagonia of the climbs. First ascents in this region of the world Ice field in 27 days in 1955 to are still being seen every year, is coupled with an equally 1956, covering 60 kilometers. not only on new routes on interesting history. The names of Eric Shipton, another notable previously summited peaks, the early explorers of Patagonia Englishman, completed three but also on peaks that have read like a who’s who of the large expeditions to the area never before been climbed. international mountaineering in 1958, collecting a large The development of Patagonia community. From the famous number of plant species from as a testing ground for upEnglish explorers H.W. Tillman remote areas. 1959 saw the and-coming climbers will be and Eric Shipton, to the Italians now controversial first ascent interesting to watch in the years Toni Egger and Cesare Maestri, of Cerro Torre by Italians to come, as more and more and countless others, Patagonia Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger. routes are added to climbers’ has drawn some of the biggest Egger died in an avalanche tick lists. names in climbing to its unique, after reportedly reaching the isolated landscape. summit. Maestri claimed that The climbing history of the camera was taken away Patagonia, however, is only With serious climbing with Egger. Although Egger’s a small part of the region’s expeditions dating back to at body was found in subsequent blacksheepchile@gmail.com
17 www.antarespatagonia.com
phone 61•414611
Barros Aranas 111
erratic rock II
The hosteling alternative for couples.
OPENING JANUARY 1, 2006 Puerto Natales, Chile WWW.PATAGONIAFORTWO.COM 25.000 CLP FOR TWO
Everything for couples...
photo by Rodrigo Fuica
identity. First reached by Westerners in the 1520s, Patagonia has always been a place of adventure and wild imagination. Magellan’s famous circumnavigation of the globe brought Patagonia into contact with the rest of the world. Magellan’s crew, the few that survived anyhow, would spread the fame of the Pataghones, or the big-feet. The Patagonian giants, taller than a galleon, clad with animal skins and speaking in strange tongues, were sought after for many years by any sailor coming through the straights near Tierra del Fuego. In reality, however, pre-contact times saw four major tribes of indigenous people inhabiting this region. The Aonikenk, the Kaweskar, the Yamana and the Selk’nam lived in the different regions of december 2005
Patagonia and Tierra Del Fuego. Unfortunately paralleling the story of North American native tribes, these indigenous people also faced constant relocation to various reservations, as well as epidemic diseases that severely reduced their populations. Some early anthropological studies, however, were able to document the elaborate ceremonial lives of some of these tribes. Another famous expedition to come to Patagonia was headed by an ambitious captain of the British navy. Robert Fitzroy took two trips to Patagonia aboard the Beagle. Although Fitzroy played a large role in the surveying of much of Patagonia and in the development of modern day meteorology, the Beagle is perhaps most well known for its second journey, when a young man named Charles Darwin
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International Torri del Paine…Che cosa fare in pochi giorni?
della Patagonia. Il parco è considerato un classico del suo genere per la possibilità di vedere da vicino quelle montagne spettacolari che rimangono un mito per i alpinisti di tutto il mondo. Inoltre la possibilita di osservare paesaggi indimenticabili e la emozione intensissime per il contatto con animali inusuali alle vostre latitudini.
Nel cuore della provincia dell’Ultima Speranza e lontano circa 150 chilometri della cittadina di Puerto Natales, capitale della provincia, si trova il Parco Nazionale delle Torri del Paine, i tre famosi pilastri hanno dato il nome al parco, queste maestose montagne di granito si ergono quasi Il Parco Nazionale delle verticalmente per più di Torri del Paine fu istituito 2000 metri sulla steppa nel 1959 dal governo cileno originariamente per Small groups for active travellers.
www.yakexpediciones.cl
erratic rock
HOSTEL • GUIDE SERVICE • RENTAL CENTER • SHUTTLE
Nel 1978 il parco fu dichiarato dall’UNESCO come reserva della Biosfera, formando parte dei principali ecosistema del mondo. Il parco rappresenta un patrimonio di biodiversità che merita di essere conosciuto, amato e conservato per le future generazioni. Che cosa fare? Nel Parco Torres del Paine, una valida alternativa al “giro del Paine”, è la cosiddetta “W”, che si può completare, se si hanno buone gambe, in soli quattro giorni. Il primo giorno si può salire fino al rifugio Cileno (2 ore da Campeggio Las torres), dal quale si può, sempre in giornata, andare e tornare al mirador delle Torri del Paine (4 ore). Il secondo
Beste Black Sheep, 10 maanden geleden liet ik een druilerig Nederland achter me, op weg naar het einde van de wereld. Een Groningse in Patagonisch Chili.... en het is eigenlijk helemaal niet moeilijk om je hier thuis te voelen. Dezelfde paardebloemen in de tuin, dezelfde lange avonden, dezelfde frisse lentedagen, wisselende wolkenluchten, tuinkabouter terreur, lounge cafeetjes, collectes rond etenstijd, chileense wijnen en dezelfde drie uur om in de bewoonde wereld te komen. De vis is hier goedkoper, en het fruit misschin iets minder exotisch dan bij de toko op de hoek, dat is waar, maar als je lang genoeg in Nateles bent, ga je bijna geloven dat de Don Bosco beter is dan Albert Heijn. Is Natales dus gewoon Groningen zonder ‘AH to go’? Of is Nederland stiekem Patagoni��ë�������������������� ������������������� in een notendop...? Het antwoord is natuurlijk nee, het gras is namelijk wel degelijk een andere kleur groen aan dit uiteinde van de wereld. Het water blauwer, de bergen ruiger (tja....) de weg naar Paine via Cerro Castillo net iets inspirerender dan Den Haag via Almere Haven.
www.chilenativo.com
and
WE BUY, SELL, RENT, TRADE REAL GEAR.
proteggerlo dell’ uso agricolo indiscriminato operato dai pascoli in quota di pecore e mucche per quasi un secolo prima della creazione del parco. Fortunatamente, la politica di tutela ambientale degli ultimi anni ha dato alcuni importanti risultati e la zona del Paine sta lentamente superando le conseguenze dell’ sfruttamento eccessivo.
01
www.erraticrock.com Located across from the ‘other’ Plaza... page 8
56•61•411835
14
blacksheepchile@gmail.com
Ten years of NOLS in Natales by E. Blair Stone
Ten Years of NOLS in Natales Blair Stone The typical travel constraints of time and money leave most travelers with a tick-list of things to accomplish on their travels to the “end of the Earth.� Trekking in Torres del Paine National Park, walking on Glacier Grey, or paddling in Seno Ultima Esperanza are a few options for those with limited time to experience the wildness of this place. But Patagonia, in all of its vastness, offers even more for those who want to further their skills in the mountains or along the coast, to learn what is needed to travel safely beyond the trails and into the heart of wild places.
photo by Phil Schnieder
From the glaciated Cordillera to the coastal temperate rainforest, Patagonia has attracted explorers and adventurers for centuries. For these same reasons of location,
BIGFOOT
exploration, and experiential learning, the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) created a Patagonia program in Puerto Natales in 1996. The
National Outdoor Leadership School, founded in the United States in 1965, is a non-profit educational organization whose goal is to give people the skills to comfortably and responsibly lead others in the backcountry.
Here in Natales, NOLS courses in both English and has become a part of a Spanish. Departing from Puerto wide-reaching community Natales, the Patagonia Semester of schools, guiding agencies, businesses and Departing from Puerto government projects who Natales, the Patagonia share the same commitment Semester runs twice a to education and conservation. year and consists of 80 Nearly ten years continuous days in the field. later, NOLS courses in this region of runs twice a year and consist Patagonia are still of 80 continuous days in the just as exploratory field. Taught in English, these as the first course in courses include Sea Kayaking, 1996. Mountaineering, and Small Group Expedition sections. In With courses in conjunction with the Wilderness the United States, Medicine Institute, NOLS also Canada, Mexico, Chile, Brazil, India, Australia and New Zealand, NOLS has established programs that range from two week, skill-specific courses to threemonth semesters. From sailing courses in Baja Mexico to mountaineering expeditions in the Patagonian Ice Fields, NOLS students are given the tools to create solid technical and leadership skills, sound environmental ethics, and valuable experience in expeditionary living. 09 In Patagonia, NOLS operates
06 december 2005
page 9
Local Bus Schedules
Regular Bus Natales - Torres del Paine
The nautical route to Torres del Paine.
JB 412824 busesjb@hotmail.com 7.30 / 14.00 Gomez 415700 7.30 / 14.00
Regreso (return) Torres del Paine Natales
JB Administracion 13.00/18.30 Pudeto 14.00/19.00 Laguna Amarga 15.00/20.00
Gomez Administracion 13.00/18.15 Pudeto 14.00/19.00 Laguna Amarga 15.00/19.45
REGULAR BUS
BUS FERNANDEZ 411111 www. busesfernandez.com
NATALES TO PUNTA ARENAS 7.15 9.00 13.00
12
page 10
The one that started it all. blacksheepchile@gmail.com
Opinion Torres del Paine fire This past season, the negligence of one camper using a stove started a huge environmental catastrophe in the Torres del Paine National Park. Since it was declared to be a Reserve of the Biosphere by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization in 1978, the Chilean Torres del Paine National Park has suffered several environmental disasters, but two fires in particular caused more irreparable damage than anything else. One was a colossal fire that in 1985 converted incredible old beech forests into ashes. Those forests will never be back to the way they were. The other disaster is the fire that started on February 17, 2005. It burned unique meadows, valleys, and woods that are the essence of the Patagonian wildlife and landscape. The fire began on a Thursday afternoon. During the first 48 hours, the firefighting consisted of sending in two dozen teenagers, armed only with shovels, and with out any logistic assistance.
it h e by Max Salas
Miraculously, in those first three days, there was no wind (an occurrence that is very uncommon at that time of the year). The lack of wind could have been a key element to controlling the damage, but as there was no serious and sophisticated firefighting methods being used, the lack of wind didn’t help; it only gave the impression that the fire was going out. However, all of us who love our homeland and have been here for some years knew better.
control the fire, but the main reason is that there are no resources for it.
Although the capacity for Chile to react strongly to emergencies exists, the problem lies in its priorities. The Chilean government has to understand that the environmental cause is not only a topic to talk about in the international forums; it has to be a national priority. If Chile wants to been taken seriously by the international community, it has to show, with proof, that its priorities are in the right place.
The following Monday evening, the wind returned, and Patagonia became a living hell. On Monday, 56 hours after the fire was declared, the local authorities finally performed the first aircraft flyover, and had a proper assessment of the real situation. Of course, the conclusion was pretty obvious by that time. Now, some explanations are being given for the lack of technical and professional firefighting deployment to
world to contribute to the humanitarian cause.
It is incredible to hear this argument, considering the fact that it was only two years ago that the Chilean government was showing the whole world this country’s preparedness and high degree of coordination and mobilization when, in less than 48 hours, 300 fully-equipped soldiers were deployed to Haiti. The deployment included vehicles, portable hospitals, food, water treatment plants, ammunitions, and much more. Equipment was sent to the other side of
Clearly, the lack of reaction time shows that for the Chilean government, the protection of the environment is not yet an issue. Its resources need to be spent usefully, and not in useless environmental bureaucracy, in which endless amounts of money can be spent. This has to be changed by us, the people. The Chilean voters and taxpayers, together with the international public opinion, have to put their priorities straight. If the people lead, the leaders will follow.
Invisible Fear Everyone who has gotten ready to set off on a trip has, before leaving, run through a checklist either mentally or physically������������������� ����������������������������� . We don’t want to
to see,” “hope to make” and “hope to experience” on our trip, and that
other place is.” With all of these warnings in our minds, we don’t allow
border, we must be aware of this fear and allow ourselves to be open, free, and flexible. In this way, maybe at the end of our journey, we can answer
forget anything that will be necessary during those days, weeks or months in which we are away, especially once we have crossed foreign borders. Despite our best efforts to remember
it can become, in a way, our worst companion. We move with big packs on
ourselves to really connect with the reality of the place, preventing the experience from touching and
questions about our journey by saying that we walked in the town, stayed longer than we planned, played with children, spoke with older people, had coffee alone, spent hours sitting on a
everything, there exists an “invisible fear” to which we don’t generally pay much attention. At the moment of departure, we are bound intimately to our luggage. I have a friend who always reminds me that the most danger that we may face on
our backs. We have images of National Geographic and prejudices of every kind in our minds, and we hear other voices from other visitors ringing in our ears, saying, “do this,” “don’t do
transforming us, with respect and humility to those who are around us. This kills the chance to enrich ourselves with the experience of what we find in our steps. A destination is never just a place. It is a new way to
train thinking about how life goes by, found love, thought about settling down, and dreamed about coming back. In this way, we will have converted the “invisible fear” into visible experiences, real and unforgetable.
a trip is related to our own expectations and what we “hope to find,” “hope
this,” “this activity is a waste of time,” and “this place isn’t worth it, but this
see new things and to see the world. If we really want to cross the
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Local YOU GOTTA TRY THIS
51* 44’ 06.7s 72* 30’ 17.8w
Tell your friends... but don’t tell the guidebooks.
family houses or hostels.
Every time you visit a different country, one question almost always comes to your mind: “What’s the food like there?”
You’ll also find good and strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture, which means that we are very keen on making drinks based on pisco.
Well, in Chile, the food is not very sophisticated, but it is definitely delicious. There are a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. Of course, you’ll find these dishes in nontraditional restaurants or at
Since many lodges offer communal kitchens, we suggest that you prepare and try your own pisco sour. Here is a recipe for this tempting drink: Pisco Sour You need 3 parts of pisco
A Half Day on Dorotea Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Need to kill a few hours before heading to Punta Arenas? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two hour hike up Cerro Dorotea. Grab a local taxi and ask them to take you to Mirador Dorotea. It’s a fifteen minute taxi ride and you’ll find yourself on the southern side of Dorotea. Pay the woman about 3000 pesos to cross her property and head off down the trail. The trail is really well marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point you get a great view of Natales and Seno Ultima Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif is stunning.
FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT Tourist Booking Center and personal transportation specialists.
Guided and unguided adventure. RING 61•412109 info@express–rentacar.com www.express–rentacar.com 03 page 12
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The Patagonia Five
by Oso de Oregon The Patagonian 5 by oso de Oregon
trekkers in Torres del Paine find, or be aware of what to look for and where to look for them.
Most of us are familiar with Africa’s famous “big 5”: The buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, lion and leopard. However, few are familiar with the Patagonian 5 (probably because I just came up with it to get published).
GUANACO: A South American cameloid relative of the llama and the alpaca. Sleek and strong, with brownish-white bodies and long necks. They are found in the steppe areas of Laguna Amarga, Laguna Azul, on the drive from the entrance to
Book Exchange & Coffee Shop 13
Puerto Natales Blanco Escalanda 226
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Paine Grande Mountain Lodge & Paine Grande Camping Alongside Lago Pehoe with great views of the Paine Mountains.
Though they are not as big or dangerous as their counterparts in Africa, the P5 prove to be just as unique and even harder to observe (except for the Guanacos!). A lot of luck is needed to observe all of the 5 in the park. Hopefully, the descriptions that follow will help
december 2005
Lago Pehoe, and Laguna Verde. Guanacos feed on grasses, lichen and shrubs. They need once a year and give birth to their “chulengos” between November and February. HUEMUL: The Huemul or Andian deer is a small, compact deer, measuring just 1.5 meters in length. They can be found on the road between Administration and Hosteria Grey, near Western Bomelsies, around Lago Grey, and along the pingo tram. The Huemul is on the
Lodge, camping, restaurant, cooking facilities, bar, hot showers.
www.verticepatagonia.cl
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A very different Patagonia by Rebecca Armstrong
For the amateur equine-lover, a horseback trip through Chilean Patagonia may seem daunting, but given the right group of guides, it can be an experience of a lifetime! Recently I had the chance to accompany a group of Chile Nativo guides, gauchos from Estanica Guido, and two local women working on a video about Patagonia, to scout a new horse pack trip near the Torres del Paine Park. We arrived late in the night under a brilliant full moon to our warmly lit Estancia and accommodation, Lodge Cerro Guido. After unloading the gear we gathered around a cozy fire, snacked on appetizers and drank Pisco sours while waiting to meet our hosts. The newly renovated Estancia has country elegance and comfortable accommodations, not to mention delicious local cuisine. After dinner and a last view of the stars, our group headed off to a soft bed and a good sleep; our last taste of civilization before heading out for five days of exploring the wilds of Patagonia along the Chile/Argentine border. It’s May and the Lenga leaves (Nothofogus family) are making their brilliant color change from deep green to fiery red. The weather has started to turn colder and we might have a chance of snow. We wake up early and after a hearty breakfast we met our horses. We brought along two pack horses for our food and gear. I’m thrilled with my horse, a speckled grey gelding named Benedicto Torres; we become quick
Natural Dried Fruit Baquedano 443 Puerto Natales
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companions. The sky threatens rain, but holds as we make our way across a mixture of steppe and hills covered in wind-twisted trees and low lying bushes toward Estancia Las Chinas.
Along the way, we stop for a picnic lunch at a small deserted puesto, a rustic hut that the gauchos use while moving the animals. We experience real pampering when our lunch is spread before us. Smoked salmon and cream cheese, avocados, homemade bread and hot soup ease the chill and prepare us for the afternoon. We push ourselves to
get back into the saddle knowing that we have quite a bit more riding ahead of us to make it to camp before nightfall. We can see it in the distance, a welcoming curl of smoke rising from the Estancia las Chinas house…there will be new gauchos to meet, fresh baked bread, hot coffee and friendly conversation. As I know from previous horseback trips in Patagonia, there is no more humble and welcoming a man than the gaucho in his hut. We stride through the gate and the sheep dogs bark excitedly at the new arrivals. We are welcomed by the gaucho known as Metallico, for his metallic voice; he is a heavy set man in his 60s. His easy gaucho air is friendly and welcoming. We are directed to set up our tents in the back pasture. The horses graze around us and you can hear their soft murmurs in the night. Sleep comes fast and deep after a long day in the saddle and a face full of Patagonian extremes. The following day we head into a river cut valley, our destination the puesto Las Chinas. The ride has some great sections, perfect for cantering and winding our way through neneo and Calafate bushes. Every once in a while, one of the group will race to the top of an overlook and bring back a report of the areas ahead. Finally we arrive to our puesto; after miles
of pastureland it was like arriving to a this unforgettable expanse, the cold was castle. We all set about to our tasks to so intense and uncomfortable we pushed make our new space more comfortable. on quickly, with hopes to return someday There was wood to be gathered, a fire to to take in this beauty again. The trail led be made, hot water to boil for mate (yerba back down into the river valley, the sun mate is a bitter came out to warm tea from Paraguay Outside, the wind whipped our bodies and we that is drank from around the puesto, but stopped for a hot a gourd through a soup and fueled metal straw, very we were warm inside, not up for the rest of typical in this part of another soul for miles. the journey. Not Chilean Patagonia) long after the river and the horses to section ended we unsaddle and put to pasture. Our duties could hear the bellows of cows from the pass the time quickly and it feels good distance and our spirits lifted knowing to be living and that La Rosada was very close. The e x p e r i e n c i n g narrow valley opened into a green grassy e s t a n c i a field filled with Argentine cows that life. Later had crossed the open border. Our inner in the day the cowboy awakened and with a whoop and gauchos arrive a holler we chased the cows back over the with the rest of border. One little calf so overwhelmed our supplies. by the excitement staggered around like We welcomed a drunk and fell in a heap on the ground. them with a Diego and Angelo, two of the Chile hearty dinner of Nativo guides, raced over to the calf to roasted lamb, see if they could save it by stroking the hot coffee poor beast to calm it down. It quickly and warm recovered, jumped to its feet and raced h o m e m a d e back to its panicked mother. bread. That night in this La Rosada is a secluded puesto used by rustic hut, gauchos for the summer time grazing of candles and their cows. It’s the type of place you want h e a d l a m p s to spend some time to soak in its natural our ambient beauty. On a clear night it’s the perfect l i g h t i n g , place to lie down in the pasture and stare s u r r o u n d e d up at the stars next to a campfire. About by new friends a 15 minute walk from the puesto I united in adventure and good spirit, we reached a sign post and the limit between drank simple red wine, told stories and Chile and Argentina. It’s a good photo played games to pass the time. Outside, opportunity as well as a chance to feel the wind whipped around the puesto, but the remoteness of this location. Upon we were warm inside, not another soul our arrival, the guides turned our puesto into a cozy home; in a flash the place for miles. was tidy, there was a fire blazing in the The following day Magallenic stove we headed toward and we were all our next puesto, rehashing our day La Rosada and the over a hot delicious Argentine border. meal. The unmarked It’s the second to last route was new for day, and we’re back the group except in the saddle again to the gauchos. It and on the return proved to be a toward civilization. challenging day, We have not seen filled with exciting another person for river crossings, 2 days. Our group steep descents and has really bonded a precarious march over the trip. The through a long advantage of slippery section horseback riding is of river. I’ll never the time you get to forget one section spend chatting with called the valley of your companions the moon, a desert and time to like expanse of contemplate life. mountains and hills, stripped of vegetation from the harsh Many conversations and opinions were winds and extreme temperatures; colors shared between the group both on and of chocolate brown and steel gray with a off horse. It’s been a beautiful trip and contrasting silver sky. It was so beautiful there is still more to come. it took my breath away. As we crossed
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Our ride followed a two-track road that Just as the sun was setting we arrived to winds its way back toward the national Estancia Laguna Azul which sits on the park. The sections to come where ideal edge of the Torres del Paine national for cantering the horses and fulfilling park and has a privileged view of the c o w b o y To w e r s . fantasies of old Our arrival black and white is greeted movies from with a our childhood. r o u n d s Just about the of hand time we were shaking and all ready for a slaps on the rest and a meal, backs from we arrived to our guides. the puesto La As in most Porfiada, which e v e r y translates estancia we as stubborn visited, they person. The s e e m e d gauchos living to be in this hut known and were out with welcomed, their animals, and so were but typical we. We to Patagonia have spent g a u c h o an extra h o s p i t a l i t y, day getting a stranger is to Laguna always welcome Azul and to come into the we need to puesto, warm send word themselves back to the by a fire, help family of themselves to Julia and mate and food, and when you leave, you to the Chile Nativo office that we are expected to clean and restock the hut are doing fine and will be arriving one as you found it. For our luck there was day later. Gonzalo, Angelo and I ride a pan full of freshly made tortas (fried off quickly on our horses toward the bread and a local specialty). Once park ranger station with hopes to catch again the guides set out a spread of food the ranger before he makes his daily 8 to be admired; several days of riding pm radio contact with the other ranger and no stores to be found and we still stations and the outside world. We ride ate like royalty. off at a fast gallop to There was smoked ...the cold was so intense catch the last remaining turkey, various bit of light. We arrive uncomfortable, we to a deserted station, but cheeses, and and sliced tomatoes. luckily Gonzalo is a good pushed on quickly. Angelo taught me friend with the ranger and how to serve and enters into the house with prepare mate in the traditional way and confidence to use the radio. Our path Julia filmed some shots of the puesto of return is dark, there isn’t much moon and our lunch while we relaxed in the this evening, but the stars are radiating warm hut, visiting with our hosts who in the sky. I am secretly nervous we’ll had returned to greet us. Eventually we cross a puma in the night, but it’s not a gathered our belongings and remounted, realistic fear and I set my mind to enjoy with the winter light, we needed to push this rare opportunity to ride by horseback on to make it to our next destination, at night. We arrive back to the estancia Laguna Azul. house tired and cold to find that Diego, Julia and Javiera have set up all the tents
and sleeping bags, what a team! Our last day of riding takes us past a series of Estancias, Tercera and Segunda, before we reach Cerro Guido again. Our group is a bit smaller. Angelo and Javiera took advantage of our proximity to the Park to return to work. We sadly sad our good-byes, having spent a few amazing days united in adventure. The rest of us continue on and we are joined by a few gauchos we met at Laguna Azul as they head our way to check on some fences. As we ride again through the pampas (steppe), we frighten various groups of guanacos and ñandú. Above us soar the majestic Andean Condor and we even catch sight of a Black-chested eagle. From our perch atop the horses, we can see the land stretch out before us and all the treasure it holds; it feels like we are on a wildlife safari. We reach the Estancia Guido once again, 5 days later, tired and a little dusty, but content and satisfied with a trip well run and a journey fully shared. The wind has picked up again, just in time as we step out of our saddles for the last time, lead our equine companions into the barn and gather our gear to head to a warm shower and real bed. Thanks to everyone in the group for an amazing experience.
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Torres del Paine Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories
Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina trekking Dorotea
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