Torres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Volume 2 • Issue 4 • Jan 2007 • patagoniablacksheep.com cover image by Anthony Riggs ©
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www.patagoniablacksheep.com Published by Southern Cross Ltda. The Black Sheep Organizing Chilean Patagonia Patagonia, Chile ph +56•61•415749
The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile. A warm, woolly thanks goes out to all black sheep who helped make this paper possible. The opinions within the Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of some of the advertisers. But we do it for the fans, not the critics.
Production Editor • Design: Rustyn Mesdag Business Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar Irribarra Contributers: Diego Araya, Sebastian Borgwardt, Isabel Chamorro, Marjan Alkema, Carolyn Phillips Consultant: bill penhollow
Torres del Paine Bus Schedules Via Paine / Andescape - Eberhard 599 - Ph 412877 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
Trip 1 7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.00
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Gomez -Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.15
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Andescape Ph 412877
TEMPORADA 2006-2007- Regular Schedule Pudeto Pehoe 09:30am
10:30pm
12:00pm
12:30pm
March 16 to 31, 2006
18:00pm 12:00pm
18:30pm 12:30pm
April 2007
18:00pm 12:00pm
18:30pm 12:30pm
7.30
Torres del Paine Refugio Information Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
$8.50 $13.50 $15.00 $59.00
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
7.30
10.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
9.45
12.30
16.30
Pudeto
13.30
Laguna Amarga
14.30
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Administration
11.45
18.00
Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
(Pudeto)
(Administration) Puerto Natales 17.00
18.30
14.00
19.00
17.30
20.00
13.45 19.30
22.00
$8.00 $12.00 $14.00 $63.00
13.00 215.00 hrs 30 3 hrs 15 314.00 hrs 45 13.00
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez Ph 411111 E. Ramírez 399
Buses Fernandez Ph. 242313 Arm. Sanhueza 745
Bus Sur Ph 411859 Baquedano 668
7.15 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 7.30 10.00 13.30 18.00 7.00 15.00
Bus Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900 Bus Sur Ph. 244464 José Menéndez 552
8.00 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 8.30 14.00 18.30 19.30 15.00 19.00
These prices are reflected in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.
Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos albergue@lastorres.com +56-61 360360
25.00 7.00 7.50 13.000 5.50
15.00
Laguna Amarga
Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (Administration) (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park) JB Calafate (Laguna Amarga) El 57.30 hrs TDP L. Amarga Ph 412824 Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto (Pudeto) Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin (Administration)
A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
+56-61 412592
(Laguna Amarga)
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales
Bus Pacheco Ph 414513 Baquedano 500
Andescape - Dickson, Lago Grey
Torres del Paine - Natales
Gomez (Laguna Amarga) 15.00 to all the Remember: Hostería7.30 Las Torres operates a transfer that connects Ph 415700 buses that arrive at and leave from Laguna Amarga (cost is $2 USD). (Pudeto) 13.45
One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed) Round trip ticket $17.000 per person No trips on 1/01/2007 Los arrieros 1517. Puerto Natales. Phone 61-411380. Mail: maclean@entelchile.net
andescape@terra.cl
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
7.30
Natales - Torres del Paine
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS
Trip 2
Laguna Amarga
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242
Torres del Paine
Trip 1
Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
November 1 to March 15, 2007
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Trip 2
Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
33.00 7.00 7.00 11.000 3.50
Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain Lodge loreto.c@verticepatagonia.cl +56-61 412742 Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
$9.00 $12.00 $15.00 $63.00
Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
35.00 7.00 4.00 14.00 3.00
Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine Questions & Answers What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question.������������ But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 - 2.5 hrs. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 - 8am. There is also a 2pm bus. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do, it depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3,500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas.
Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea
Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories
Puerto Natales, Chile T. Rogers
Señoret
lip hi
.P B i
Eberhard
$
A. Prat
Magallanes
B. Arana
Bories
Valdivia
V v$ $
M. Bulnes
Chorrillos
v
Balmaceda
H
B. Zamora
v
Galvarino
v
E. Ramirez
Yungay
Baquedano
Miraflores
Esmeralda
B. Encalada
C. Pinto
O’Higgins Magallanes
P. Montt
Ladrilleros
NAVIMAG
$
January 2007
You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios. Can I cook in the refugios? In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits). How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter. Are there backpackers here in the winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast. What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the
At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am. What about midday? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, exept for the supermarkets. Where can I buy camping food in town? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located 1 block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes. How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? In summer, not freezing, but it can still get close sometimes. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Is there a bus that goes to Calafate directly from Torres del Paine? Yes, it picks up at 5pm at Laguna Amarga. Call Calafate Travel for that transfer. It costs 20.000 from the park and from Pto. Natales it costs 10.000. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person, one way, 17.000 round trip. Is there food sold in the park?
pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ideas when possible, but there is a lot of Patagonia out there that has no public buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town. Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone wobbles right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town. Why do I get given a piece of little receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously. Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you. Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang. Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from TdP? No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know.
Extras... A free information talk is given at Erratic Rock everyday at 10:30am & 3pm -about the Park, logistics, food prep, programs, clothing and any questions you might have... Arriving late? Equipment emergency? The gear shop, La Maddera at Bulnes 495, is open until 10pm and will except emergency phone calls at all hours if you have a real problem. 09-4184100 or 412591
Art Gallery & Jewelry
56 61 411461
Eberhard 318 Puerto Natales
Daily Rock Climbs in Torres del Paine Looking for something extra while in Torres del Paine? A new company has begun daily outdoor rock climbing programs out of Hosteria las Torres. Puma Explorations is offering two departure times daily through April 2007. From beginner to advanced, these daily programs offer a great taste of rock climbing in Patagonia. The cost of these rock seminars cost 19.000clp ($38USD). Aside from being easily accessible from
www.aquaterrapatagonia.com
Hotel Restaurant Cafeteria Hand Crafts Massage Travel Agency & The best pisco sour in town!
Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales
Hosteria & Refugio Torres, these programs are all inclusive; ropes, climbing shoes, helmets, saftey equipment and instruction from the expe-
Puma Exploraciones
Torres del Paine Patagonia-Chile The founder of Puma Exploration is second Fono 360 360 rienced and ultra friendly Puma crew.
generation Torres climber, Tomas Marusic
L’huissier. Tomas grew up climbing with his father, Pepe (Jose Marusic Fernandez), a local
www.pumaexploraciones.com puma@lastorres.com
legend in Torres del Paine. A day out with the Daily Departures Puma crew will open your eyes to the history of AM 9:00 to 13:00 climbing in the region as well as getting you that PM 15:00 to 19:00 much better prepared for your next rock adventure.
The Longest Trek in the World
In the beginning there was ice. Departing from the Glacier Grey Operations Hut in Torres del Paine - Daily Ice Hikes - 1, 2 & 3 Day Seminars - 9 Day Expedition Primers
icehike@planetaglaciar.com
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
PUERTO NATALES BARROS ARANA 299 FONO: 413622
PUNTA ARENAS
ERRAZURIZ 891 FONO: 240214
zThe “Sendero de Chile” is a huge project which aims to link Chilean people and foreigners with the natural, cultural, ethnic, and scenic variety of the country. By the year 2010 it will be the longest trail in the world, with an extension over 8.500 kilometers. This path will link the plateau and the most barren desert of the world; central valleys and its cities, parks, woods, lakes and volcanoes in southern Chile; austral glaciers and the vast expanse of the Patagonia pampas, and finally, the main island ecosystems, with paths in Isla de Pascua, in Archipielago de Juan Fernández and Isla Grande de Chiloé. Currently, Sendero de Chile has 35 treks that form this amazing route with more than 1,200 kilometers along the country. Each journey is linked to unique geographical conditions, but specially linked to very particular and unique natural and tourist attractions. At the Magallanes region, 3 trails exists: “Isla Navarino in Cabo de Hornos”, “Reserva Nacional de Magallanes” and “Ruta Patrimonial Milodon” (a few kms from Puerto Natales). Ruta Patrimonial Milodón This trail begins 20 kms to the north of the Milodon cave, in the “Nuevo camino al Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine” or “Lago Porteño” road.
The trail is 60 cms wide and 42 kms in length. and begins at the foot of the Cerro Tenerife hill. It is an easy walk and while you are walking, you can enjoy the magnificent landscape of the the Paine Grande Massif and three nearby lakes: Porteño, Maravilla and Toro; besides it is also possible to see the Tyndall and Grey Glaciers and part of the Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur. Finally, the journey ends at the Serrano river, next to the Torres del Paine National Park. Walking the whole path takes about 3 or 4 days, so you can camp at Rio Ventisquero, El Salto and Rio Serrano. The environmental characteristics in this path are a feature of the patagonia climate, with a wide variety of native vegetation like lengas, coigues, ñirres, maitenes, ciruelillos, and calafates. You can also see different kind of birds and other animals like condor, eagles, parrots, foxes, bobcats, etc. The trail “Ruta Patrimonial Milodón” is in an improvement phase at present so its infrastructure is still basic. The trail is accessible from its starting point to the end in rio Serrano, from where you can visit the Torres del Paine National Park or make a descent by zodiac through the Rio Serrano, visit Balmaceda and Serrano glacier and continue by boat to Puerto Natales.
Camping Equipment • Sport Fishing • Fly Fishing • Hunting Gear • Fleece Jackets • Parkas • Thermals • Tents • Sleeping Bags • Backpacks • Boots & Tennis shoes • Climbing Equipment • and more...
What & Where is Cabo Froward?
erratic rock.com
The Strait of Magellan, the channel, scene of countless shipwrecks, the oldest cemetery in Patagonia, historical bays and we have never seen anyone else on the trail. The bottom of Africa and the bottom of Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off. Not the case for the bottom point of South America. This journey is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses and willing to put themselves in a place where the words ‘self reliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and two neck-high river crossings carrying your pack over your head. There is no going back, mi amigo. The trek begins where the dirt road ends. Old deep forests of Nothofagus: huge coigues that seem never before seen or touched. The views are incredible, not only the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is impressive, reaching more than 7,000 feet after rising out of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park. There is also a good chance of being saturated at least once a day. The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple small ones.
Join the rucksack revolution.
Cabo departure dates 2007
The trail is not always clearly marked. Finding a reliable map is next to impossible. Trails are only marked by the few that try their luck reaching the bottom of the continent. This is what will be a section of the Sendero de Chile project, which aims to create roads and paths and ferries that span the length of Chile, eliminating the need to cross into Argentina. This project is expected to be completed in 2010. The final goal is to reach the crucifix that overlooks the end of the American continent. The view from the lookout provides a true sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the world you are. This trek is not for everyone. There is no help, or contact with the world for days in any direction. The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely self supported trip can be called nothing less then extreme trekking. The trek is only really possible January - March. Other times of the year you will possibly run into river problems. Deep winter makes for frozen conditions. This route boasts two large, cold, strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. If you have successfully trekked and camped the Torres del Paine ‘W’ circuit, then you might be ready for Cabo Froward. This trek is about the location itself, the bottom of the continent and the history. Very few trekkers have ever been to Cabo Froward.
Experience and good physical fitness is essential. Must be able to carry full and loaded pack and walk on and in difficult terrain, including river crossings of a minimum of 1.5 meters deep. Optional zodiac return from tip or trek up Mt. Tarn is subject to additional fees.
Feb 11-16 Feb 18-23 Feb 25-Mar 2 Mar 4-9 Mar 11-16
Jan 7-12 Jan 14-19 Jan 21-26 Jan 28-Feb 2 Feb 4-9
reservations +56-61 410355
Cabo Shoestring Trips 2007 As a special New Years promotion, erratic rock® in Puerto Natales is posting special shoestring Cabo Froward programs for backpackers in Patagonia. For what they call ‘...a getting back to our roots program...”, these series of Cabo Froward trips will be open to the public at a surprising low backpackers price. Program director Bill Penhollow: `We designed this series of Cabo trips for the backpackers who don’t normally use guides. Travelers that want to do something unique and who want to carry their own gear, who want to achieve the tip of the continent on their own, under their own power. The problem is they just need someone to show them the way....’. The program runs weekly during the months
of January, February and March and are 6 days in total. Program cost starts at 75.000clp for full groups. Trips include guide, food, one night in Punta Arenas and transportation. This is a self sufficient program and each team member must carry all personal gear and equipment. Cabo Froward programs leave every Sunday from Puerto Natales and return to Punta Arenas on Fridays.
51* 44’ 06.7s 72* 30’ 17.8w
Bories House in Patagonia but not entirely of it. Go there to get away without leaving it all behind. Reservations: (+56-61) 412221 Puerto Bories 13b, Puerto Natales, Chile www.borieshouse.com · info@borieshouse.com
Free transfer service from Puerto Natales
* * * H o r s e R i d i n g Av a i l a b l e * * * January 2007
Downtown Punta Arenas
www.aonikenk.com Magallanes 619
Tell your friends... ...don’t tell the guidebooks.
Call 221982
The penguin connection.
The Falkland Islands A different destination...
Private & group yoga sessions daily
Looking for a new adventure? Bored with skyscrapers or traffic jams? Want to get in touch with nature? Here’s a holiday tip for you. Volunteer Point
torres del paine tested in patagonia
New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales tel: 413829
www.susalatino.com
Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310
massage, mud therapy & more
10% OFF Branch office
Albergue Torre Central 2006-07 Season
Lib. Bernardo O’Higgins - Puerto Arturo Prat, Punta Arenas, Chile ph241022 puerto@terra.cl
Tourist Center Puerto Del Estrecho
Travel info - Internet - Cafeteria - HandCrafts - Souvenirs - Phone Center - Travel Agency - Money Exchange - Rental Cars & more...
Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile Phone / Fax 56•61•415285
Mmmm...
Handmade Chocolate Gourmet Espresso Real Hot Chocolate
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
The Falkland Islands, with a total land area of 4,700 square miles (12,173 sq km) and located 400 miles (640 kilometres) east of the South American mainland, is one of the fourteen UK Overseas Territories. It’s made up of two large islands (East Falkland and West Falkland) and several hundred smaller ones. According to the 2001 Census, The Islands have a population of 2,913, of whom 1,989 live in Stanley, the capital. Most of the rest of the population live on sheep farms. Falkland Islanders make up 45% of the total population, which also includes UK citizens, Chileans, Australians, New Zealanders and Russians, amongst others. The official language is English and the currency is the Falkland pound (1FKP=1GBP). The fisheries sector, having two types of squid (Illex argentinus and Loligo gahi) as its main products, is the main contributor to the Islands economy. What to do. If you are looking for a wildlife experience, search no more. The Falklands have 17 different mammals, 5 species of penguins (including King and Macaroni penguins) and over 70 species of birds breed on the Islands. In the Falklands you will have the opportunity of enjoying these animals in their natural habitats, something so unique that it will almost make you feel like an intruder. Places like Volunteer Point to see King penguins, Sea Lion Islands for sea lions, elephant seals and penguins (The Falklands have the world’s largest populations of rockhopper and gentoo penguins), Bleaker Island for penguins and sea lions, and Saunders Islands for penguins and black-browed albatross (The Falklands have the world’s largest blackbrowed albatross population) are some of the main attractions. Other options are sea trout fishing. The best times are in September and October, and in March and April. Also, if golfing is your thing, there are a few golf courses on the Islands. Now, if you’re travelling to a Spanish speaking country after your visit to the Falklands, you can brush up on your knowledge of the language in Stanley. Shopping as in “shop till you drop” is not the reason why people come to the Islands. Obviously, you will always find something to
Trail Tips...
-by Miguel Barrientos
buy, including local woollen goods, leather items, paintings, stamps and a good variety of souvenirs. However, you will not find a branch of a worldwide known restaurant or shop. This is one of the features that makes the Falklands different. And just to give you a better idea, you will not find a supermarket open after 9:00 p.m., and you won’t be able to get cash with your credit card because there are no ATMs on the Islands. By the way, if you don’t have Falkland pounds on you, British pounds are equally accepted, and most shops will take US dollars, Euros and major credit cards as well. Now, although there are not many restaurants to go to, The Falklands offer you a good variety of dishes. Among the good local seafood, you can find mussels, oysters, snow crab, squid and Patagonian toothfish. Also lamb, beef and mutton dishes, plus local veggies and a good variety of international wines are an important part of the menu. And the best way to finish off the night is to visit one of the British style local pubs, which are mostly located around the town centre, or just £2 away in a taxi. When to go. The best weather can usually be found between November and March. The average temperature of the warmest months is 9.3º (48.7ºF) and for the coldest month is 2º (35.6ºF). This year, in January, the highest was 21º (69.8ºF) and the lowest was 1º (33.8ºF), while in February the hightest was 20º (68ºF) and the lowest was 4º (39.2ºF). Obviously, accommodation is more expensive during these months. Prices range from about £130 for a single room in a hotel to about £15 for a room in a B&B. How to go. There is a LAN Chile flight that leaves every Saturday from Santiago, Chile, and stops over in Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas. Once a month, it also stops off at Rio Gallegos, in Argentina. If you are in the UK, you can catch a flight at RAF Brize Norton, which is located near Burford, Oxfordshire, England. Visitors from Britain, North America, Mercosur, Chile, and most Commonwealth and European Community countries do not need visas. Another important point is that all tourists are required to demonstrate on arrival that they have return tickets or secure accommodation and sufficient funds to cover their expenses during their intended stay. In case I’ve left something out, you can go to www.falklandislands.com, www.falklands.info or www.tourism.org.fk for more information.
Fuel Efficiency
While trying to pack light, taking your fuel into consideration helps. Bringing more fuel then you really need just means more weight to carry. On the other side of the coin, not enough fuel can cause problems. Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel. 1. Don´t over boil your water, it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you are ready to start a boil is also only heating the fresh air. 2. Use a lid on your pot. It holds the heat in and allows for a faster boil. 3, Use a wind screen. Wind will carry your heat from under your pot and redirect it from your food. Using a wind shield will aim the heat up and under your pot. If you don´t have a aluminum wind screen, rock from your campsite will also help protect your heat. -4. Many outdoor manufactures (such as MSR) now make heat exchangers that fit around your pot as an insulation. Between this and a wind screen, you can cook in almost any conditions.
Sheep Shearing
Discounts for Travellers The Black Sheep would like to thank all the local businesses that make being a traveller a little easier.
(+56 61)412221 info@estanciatravel.com www.estanciatravel.com
10% off 2 Hr. Ride Redeemable for 10% off - Valid until Jan 31, 2007
Puma Exploraciones 10% off any day climb
10% OFF Glacier Grey Ice Hike
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on Daily Ice Hikes on Glacier Grey. Valid for 2006-07 season. Can be redeemed at Eberhard 302, Baquedano 719 in Puerto Natales or at the Operations Hut at Glacier Grey in Torres del Paine National Park.
Confirmation # _________________________ Torres del Paine, Chile +56-61 360 360 puma@lastorres.com.cl
erratic rock
10% off any cafetería
Free dorm bed on your birthday!
10% off any purchase This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on chocolate, coffee, ice cream & brownies.
...with proof of ID.
EMPORIO de la Pampa Eberhard 226 -Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a regional cheese plate with the purchase of wine for two.
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
10% off any program www.aquanativapatagonia.com
Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile ph. 415749
50% off backpackers yoga session
5% off any purchase PUERTO NATALES BARROS ARANA 299 FONO: 413622
PUNTA ARENAS ERRAZURIZ 891 FONO: 240214
O’ Sole Mio
www.susalatino.com
10% off any purchase osolemio@mail15.com
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a 1 hour massage. Valid season 2006-07.
10% off Trekkers Massage
tel: 413829
A. Prat 337 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412869
vilLaundry SerLaundry Service
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
for Travellers
10% off
for laundry drop off before 10am
15% off rentals 10% off other services Bulnes 469 Pto Natales, Chile +56-61 415753 www.indianadventure.cl
erratic rock 2 Restaurant
Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61 415749
Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales, chile
Indian Adventure Travel
January 2007
10% off penguin tour
Applies to Seno Otway & Zodiac to Isla Magdalena
Phone / Fax 56•61•415285 Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile
Baquedano 719 Pto Natales www.erraticrock.com
ph +56-61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto. Natales
PUERTO NATALES O’Higgins 974 FONO: 242026
Magallanes 619 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. 221982
5% off any cash purchase
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
GOLDEN DRAGON 5% off your meal Bulnes 439 - Puerto Natales Manuel Señoret 908 - Punta Arenas
Rustike
B. Zamora 732 Pto Natales www.erraticrock.com
Free bottle of wine upon first night visit! expires Jan 31, ‘07
10% off any purchase Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile
CHEZ MOI... CHEZ VOUS...
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Mejicana 1174
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EMPORIO de la Pampa Retail, coffee shop, Chilean wines, homemade brown bread and locally produced gourmet cheese.
Eberhard 226 Puerto Natales Patagonia Chile 09-5645547
Comfortable rooms, Continental breakfast, private bathrooms, 24 hour reception, cable tv, multilingual, telephone
Hostal Francis Drake Phone & Fax +56-61 411553 contact@hostalfrancisdrake.com Phillipi 383 Pto Natales, Chile
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Hierbas or yerbas? MATE is a yerba. It is made from the leaves and stalks of a shrub (Ilex paraguariensis). In Patagonia drinking mate is a ritual often involving a group of friends who have gathered to “matearâ€? (drink and gossip). It is usually taken on an empty stomach in the morning or afternoon. Mate is said to be an appetite suppressant, an anti-oxidant and rich in vitamins C, B1, B2, potassium and magnesium. It is considered to be a healthier option than tea or coffee, but it is a stimulant and contains caffeine. So if you are looking for something to aid digestion that won´t keep you awake all night why not try one of the tĂŠ de hierbas (herbal teas) that are very popular with Chileans. Menta (mint) and manzanilla (camomile) will be familiar to many but there are various others. These hierbas are usually taken after meals and are caffeine free, but they are also recommended for a range of other ailments. Below is a list of some of their properties and some of the conditions they may help to alleviate. BOLDO – calming, headaches, gallstones BAILAHUEN – aphrodisiac, cleanses the liver LLANTEN (plantain) – anti-inflammatory, coughs, stimulates the appetite MATĂ?CO – for after eating meat MENTA (mint) – nausea, wind, bad breath, colds MANZANILLA (camomile) – calming, antiinflammatory, high blood pressure PAICO – flatulence, diarrhea TILO – lowers cholesterol, fever, cramps CEDRĂ“N (Lemon verbena) – calming, insomnia, flatulence, cramps These teabags can be found in many shops and supermarkets. There is one that is a mix of hierbas called “ocho hierbasâ€? which is particularly recommended for after meals. If you are interested in a more natural approach to treating ailments you should visit a Hierberia. There are several in Puerto Natales. Here you will find the above teas in leaf form, as well as many others offering a range of benefits. The leaves can be made into infusions and taken hot or cold. Even if your Spanish isn´t great you may be able to get an idea of their uses just from the amusing drawings on some of the packets. N:B: These infusions are much stronger than the teabags so if you are pregnant or suffer from any particular illness you should check before using.
Torres del PaineCampamento Italiano Campamento Italiano got its name long ago from an Italian climbing expedition to climb the Cuernos. After being just a climbers campsite for years, from 1980 onwards Italiano is an official free Conaf campsite. In 2002 the first park rangers where stationed there, mostly to prevent tourists from starting forest fires. They were guarding the area, but without facilities, they lived in tents. In 2004 a house was built in Italiano, all materials arrived at the place carried by humans.
The number of people spending the night at Italiano has been growing ever since. In high season there are counted up to 150 tents a night at the campsite. Using this campsite is a great way to visit Valle Del Frances with less time constraints. Waking up in the morning in Italiano gives ample time to see the Valley and move on to your next camp before dark. This valley got its name from a Frenchman that used to have cattle in the area. The animals were more in the area around Pehoe and Italiano and were never really found up in the valley. The valley was named after this Frenchman who’s name was Bader and the valley between Valle del Frances and Valle Ascencio still bares his name, Valle Bader. Right now the only facilities in Italiano are restrooms. The campsite is situated in a Lenga tree forest that offers trekkers a lot of protection from wind & rain. Valle del Frances tends to attract bad weather. This together with the growing number of people staying there, a new project is planned for construction. This will feature a protected area for campers to cook and relax out of the weather. CONAF says that this project will be ready by next season.
The legend of Calafate In the days when the Selknam lived in Tierra del Fuego and nobody else had taken over those territories, there were tribes separated from each other. Two of those tribes had always been in conflict because their chiefs had sworn to fight until death. Calafate was one of the chief´s daughters. She was beautiful and spirited. She enjoyed life and lived far from hatred. One day, when the sun was setting and it was time for love, she met a young, handsome boy. When he looked at Calafate´s big, black eyes, he felt enchanted by her beauty. When they found out that their families were enemies, it was too late because they were already deeply in love. When Calafate´s father learned about this romance, he called the tribe´s sorcerer so he could put an end to this love. “I just want you to keep her sweet eyes,� said the father. And that is what the sorcerer did. He transformed beautiful Calafate into a bush that gave a sweet, black fruit like Calafate´s eyes. The sorcerer put spines around the fruit so the young lover could never touch them. Calafate´s father never expected that their love was so strong that it would make the young man stay forever next to his once beloved Calafate. This warrior stayed with the bush until he died. Therefore, if you eat Calafate, you will be enchanted and your heart will be attracted by Patagonia so you`ll want to come back. The power of love within Calafate makes you return to the land where this story once happened.
Another possibility is to take a bus from Natales with María José Bus Company, in Esmeralda 869, which will take you directly to the Jineteada. The bus will wait at the Jineteada, and take you back to Natales. Price: to be confirmed. Contact them to see the possibilities.
Bien qu’elle n’aie pas de limites officielles, on considère généralement qu’elle couvre les territoires compris entre le 42° parallèle sud matérialisé par le Río Negro en Argentine et le Cap Horn, la dernière extremité de l’Amérique. Epine dorsale du sous-continent, la Cordillère des Andes s’étire jusqu’aux archipels fuégiens et plonge sous la Mer de Drake et le Cap Horn avant de ressurgir sur la péninsule antarctique. Frontière naturelle (et souvent discutée) entre le Chili et l’Argentine, elle sépare la Patagonie en deux zones géographiquement très distinctes, mais contenant un même coeur, une même culture, les mêmes traditions.
January 2007
Phillipi 528 - Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 413543
Friday, 12th of January: - 22.00 Night rodeo, Basto con encima Saturday, 13th of January: - 10.30 Calf rodeo - Followed by a roping competition - Gyncana -three different age groups, 5-9 yrs old, then 10-13 yrs old, followed by adults 14 and over) - Sheepherding - Chilean horse race -21.00-05.00 Fiesta (party), entrance fee 2000 Chilean pesos with a beer or soft drink included. Sunday, 14th of January: - 09.00 Horse race, around Cerro Sol, for minors with parental permission. - 14.00 Catch the pig - Followed by sheep rodeo (children between the ages of 5 and 8 will ride a sheep)
Manuel Luis Rodríguez U.
A l’Ouest du continent (le côté chilien), prédomine la forêt australe, dense et soumise à un important régime de précipitations (jusqu’à 4000 mm/an), elle croît jusqu’aux abords des fjords de la côte déchiquetée du Pacifique, sur une bande de terre qui dépasse rarement les 100 km de large...A l’Est (le côté argentin), la cordillère ayant barré l’accès aux trombes d’eau du Pacifique, prédomine une steppe semi-aride constituée en mesetas qui s’étendent jusqu’aux falaises désséchées de la côte Atlantique.
Lorsque nous sortons des villes lointaines au Magellan, lorsque nous avons pris la longue route vers Natales ou vers l’ile de la Terre du Feu, a travers le Detroit de Magellan, il y a quelque chose d’invisible, quelque domaine impenetrable qui nous fait l’accueil dans l’étendue de la pampa. C’est le silence.
Cette partition se retrouve en Terre de Feu, mais selon un axe est-ouest; au nord la steppe et au sud la montagne.
Le long silence qu’acompagne le vent, le silence qui tourne autour du coiron, qui enveloppe les incroyables arbres tordus le long de la route.
Vastes secousses télluriques et périodes glaciaires ont donné aux Andes de Patagonie ce relief si particulier de pics et d’aiguilles rocheuses, dont les sommets dépassent rarement les 3000 mètres. Des périodes glaciaires, il est resté deux gigantesques glaciers continentaux: le Champ des Glaces Patagoniennes Nord – Campo de Hielo Patagónico Norte (4500 km²) et le Champ des Glaces Patagoniennes Sud – Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur (13500 km²), qui déroulent leurs tentacules gelés sur le versant oriental de la cordillère et jusque dans les fjords de la côte pacifique du continent.
C’est le même silence qui transite dans les rues nocturnes de Punta Arenas, avec ses restos traditionnels, avec ses plats de mouton grillé avec de pommes de terre, cette ville innondéezzz de souvenirs d’une époque glorieuse du début du siecle: palais extraordinaires a l’architecture europeenne fin XIXème siècle. Silence dans la belle demeure de Sara Braun, le palais le plus beau en plein centre ville, construite par des architectes français...
La Patagonie reste encore un endroit où la nature est plus forte que les hommes.
Le silence acompagne au verger et au gardien des moutons, qui traverse avec son troupeau comme étant un souvenir des années lointains.
Silence...silence en Patagonie.
O
N A US
ALIS
Pour ceux qui habitent l’extreme austral du continent, la Patagonie n’est pas seulement un territoire, une frontière ou une étendue physique...la Patagonie est un sentiment, est une manière de vivre.
*Rooms with private & shared bathrooms *Cooking Facilities *Laundry Service *Free Bag Storage *English Infomation *Rental Equipment *Half Block from Main Square *Daily Buses to Torres del Paine *Argentine Excursion Destinations and more...
LAPISLAZULI JEWELERY
HAND CRAFTS
DECORATIONS
Carlos Bories 278 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 8 4649562 pedroblu@hotmail.com
ds
& Dri
e r o o T nk s
Voici le royaume du silence: la Patagonie. Ce n’est pas un pays, ni une région administrative d’un quelconque état latino-américain. La Patagonie, le royaume du vent, du froid et du silence, c’est cette lointaine terre du bout du monde qui s’étend sur le cône sud de l’Amérique Latine et que se partagent le Chili et l’Argentine.
Lodging
www.nikostwoadventure.com
Program:
Le royaume du silence
A D V E N T U R E
TR
Once again, it has begun; the Jineteada season has arrived. All over Latin America there are people riding wild horses. January 12, 13, 14 you will have a chance to see the very best Chilean Patagonia has to offer. First, let me explain what a Jineteada is. It is a longstanding gaucho tradition, where gauchos demonstrate their wild horse riding skills. The closest you can compare it to is the rodeo in the States. The gauchos start with rounding up all the wild horses, and in a raffle it is decided who will mount which horse. Then, the particular horse is tied to a pole, and a Gaucho will mount it. The build-up takes a few painstaking minutes and is carefully done, as these babies ARE WILD and have A LOT OF POWER. Finally, the horse is set loose, with the object to stay on the horse for a period of time (8 / 12 / or 15 seconds, depending on the category). The next 10-15 seconds is an explosion of strength, skill and elegance; sometimes it looks like a well-choreographed ballet when the gaucho stays on for the full time, and gets lifted off the wild horse by his fellow gauchos. At other times the gaucho is not so lucky and gets thrown 3 – 4 meters through the air, before a painful landing on the ground. The whole experience can be enjoyed with sandwiches, or even a locally prepared asado. The next big event will be in Cerro Castillo, the 13th and 14th of January. The entrance fee will be 1000 Chilean Pesos for the field.
The entrance fee to the rodeo field will be 1,000 Chilean Pesos. There will be toilets, food stands and even free camping.
NIKO’S II
PATAG
By Maarten Hageman
- Followed with the final of the rodeo in the categories: Basto con encima, Montura completa, Grupos Novicio.
Hand Crafts
Jineteada – an explosion of strength, skill and elegance
To get there, you can either take the regular bus JBA Patagonia from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine, from Arturo Prat 258 Local A, and get off at Cerro Castillo, which will leave you outside the village. Price: 1500 Chilean Pesos, one-way. Afterwards, however, you must wait for the bus from Torres del Paine to pick you up, which will cost another 1500 Chilean Pesos.
F ri e n
Jineteada in Cerro Castillo, January 12-14, 2006
RestoBar Eberhard 169 Puerto Natales, Chile
10 Flora in Southern Patagonia -by Veronica Irribarra During your journey through Southern Patagonia’s steppe, woodland or mountains, it is clear that this is a place with very special characteristics. Southern Patagonia is truly a “geographical island”, where some 10 million years of isolation have resulted in a high number of endemic species; that is to say, many of the species that have evolved here are exclusive to this part of the world. In fact, the unique nature of flora in the region raised interest in Europe at the end of the 19th Century in the studies made by naturalist Charles Darwin. In order to survive here, the different species have developed particular characteristics to overcome the low temperatures, strong winds, low rainfall and limited hours of daylight during the winter months. For example, during Autumn you can see the beautiful tones of red through to yellow of the Ñirre (Nothofagus Antartica) and Lenga (Nothofagus Pumilio) trees which prepare for winter losing their leaves and becoming dormant, a condition which would have originated in the past under the freezing conditions of the Antarctic. Ñirre and Lenga trees are difficult to distinguish at first glance. The key to recognising them is in the leaves;
Notro look closely at the leaf’s edge and count the rounded lobes between each vein. The Lenga leaf has two regular lobes, while the edges of the Ñirre leaf are irregular. The Guindo or Magellan Coigue (Nothofagus Betuloides) is an evergreen, typical of Magellan woodland, which has evolved the cells in its leaves in order to achieve more efficient photosynthesis in the winter months. A common trait of all these trees is that they have small, tough, leather-like leaves and a cuticle with a thin waxy layer which helps to regulate evaporation.
Your attention is certain to be drawn to two species of parasitic plants which cohabit with the Nothofagus; the rounded, green Chinese Lantern (“Farolito Chino”, Mysondendrum punctulatum), from which local people on the Island of Tierra del Fuego make the traditional vodkabased “Fuegian Liquor”; and the Pan de Indio (Cyttaria darwinii), a spherical, yellow fungus which causes the tree to form knots which are used by local artisans to make souvenirs. This fungus was an important element of the diet of the Campanita Yaghanes, native people of Island
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
of Tierra del Fuego and today is used is salads as well as to make jam.
grows individually or in colonies in protected woodland areas.
Other well known fruits in Patagonian cuisine are the berries of the Chaura (Pernettya Mucronata), a low level bush with attractive red fruits which are produced twice a year, and the fruit of the Wild Currant (“Zarzaparrilla”, Ribes Magallanicum) with its clusters of dark red, intensely-flavoured berries. Both can be made into delicious jam, as can the fruit of the Calafate (Berberis buxifolia), an evergreen bush typical of the Andean shrubland which is famous for the legend that “anyone who eats the Calafate berry will return to these lands”. Its delicious deep blue berries are collected in February to make jam, liquor and ice-cream and they are also enjoyed by many birds, rodents and the Patagonian Fox amongst others.
Alongside water courses, streams and waterfalls you are also likely to find the Ourisia ruelloides or “Flor de la Cascada”, with its attractive deep red flowers in the shape of clarinets. Ranunculus are also common, the best known of which is the Ranunculus peduncularis or “Botón del Oro”, whose large yellow flowers adorn the open grasslands. This is a “pioneer species”, ie it is an excellent coloniser so it is often found along the roadside and on land that has been disturbed. Similarly, the Embothrium coccineum or “Notro” typically colonises former woodland areas. An evergreen bush, its pretty flowers are easy to identify.
In Springtime, Southern Patagonia’s pathways are brightened by pretty flowers of the Calceolarias genre (uniflora and biflora), herbaceous perennials which can be seen between December and February on mountain slopes and trails and are commonly known as Virgin’s Slipper (“Zapatito de la Virgen”). You can also find seven species of Orchids, the most common of which are: the Gavilea Lutea, known popularly as the Yellow Orchid or “Barita de Oro”, found in open or semi-shaded areas (studies undertaken in the Torres del Paine National Park suggest that this species is an important part of the diet of the Huemul or Andean Deer (Hippocamelus Bisulcus)); the Chloraea magallanica, known as the Porcelain Orchid, the largest of the species in the region, so called because its green-veined flowers look like cracked porcelain, which is found in thick grassland and shrubby areas of the Southern Patagonian steppe; and the Codornorchis lessonii, known as “Palomita” for its delicate white flowers with pink markings, which
So if you are fortunate enough to visit Southern Patagonia in springtime, you are sure to find an unforgettable landscape. Please remember not to pick or cut flowers – the reproduction of the species depends on them. Take a photograph or simply give yourself time on your walk to stop and look at them, consider their shape, their symmetry, their colours, their apparent fragility and the world which is constantly changing around them...this way, others can also enjoy nature’s gifts.
Zapatito de la Virgen
The Spirit of Pioneers -by Marcela Suazo The human presence in these remote lands repeats the thirst for adventure that has guided human beings since their origin. The first tribes of hunters that occupied these territories arrived 12,000 years ago. Only 6,000 years ago, the Kaweshkar canoers, along with the Aonikenk (ancient dwellers of the plains), initiated the permanence and continuity of man in this corner of the planet. Soon after, the arrival of the Spanish captain Juan Ladrilleros (1557-58) marked the discovery of the zone and much later the German pioneer Hermann Eberhard (1892-93) initiated the colonization the area. Even later the arrival of many Chilean people from the island of Chiloé put their seal of identity on this area called Patagonia. The Sélknam The Sélknam or Onas inhabited the steppes in the north and the woods in the south of Tierra del Fuego. Their way of life was very similar to that of the Aonikenk, although they never used horses. They hunted guanaco, wild birds and rodents. They lived in circular huts made of tree trunks covered with leather and sticks. The Sélknam were tall, formidable, and more aggressive in character than the other aboriginals. They died out having been displaced from their lands or eliminated by the colonists who cleared the land in order to set up farms.
January 2007
The Kawéskar The Kawéskar, called the Alacalufes by the Spanish, lived spread out in small groups that travelled, via canoe, through the channels of the Archipelago. They inhabited the area stretching from the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Pains) to the Brecknock Peninsula, a very damp and rainy area with abundant vegetation. They hunted sea lions, otters and birds, as well as fished and collected shellfish and molluscs. They would take advantage of the meat and skin of any whale beached by the low tides. They built their canoes with pieces of cut bark tied together with vegetable fibers and sealed with a mixture of earth, clay, and roots. Their huts were made with wooden poles which were covered with sea lions skin. The Aonikenk The Aonikenk or Patagones inhabited the steppe from the River Santa Cruz in Argentina in the north to the Straight of Magellan in the south. They spent their time hunting rhea (Ñandú) and other birds, as well as the guanaco whose meat they ate and skin they used for clothing. Their homes were made using leather and wooden poles. All of the group participated in the hunt for guanaco and rheas. The women carried the tools and helped to strengthen the fencing used to isolate the
11 animals so that they could be attacked by the men with “Boleadoras” and bows and arrows. The Yamanas The Yamanas or Yaghans, known as the canoeist of the Beagle, were the southernmost inhabitants in the world. They lived along the edges of the Beagle Channel, as well as neighbouring channels, as far south as Cape Horn. They were adapted to living on the coast, hunting southern sea lions for their principal source of food because of their high fat content.
12 The Southernmost Luxury Lodge in the World Location Spotlight: Hotel Lakutaia - Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino, Chile There is only one
Lakutaia boasts some of the top chefs in Pata-
Patagonia. Few
gonia. The presentation of their national and re-
people ever see it,
gional food is pure art. Lakutaia holds 24 rooms
in the grand scale
which keeps the lodge intimate and warm.
of things. Even
The lodge is managed by Maria Paulina Fredes,
fewer people step foot on Tierra del Fuego.
general manager; and Anthony Riggs, outdoor
“Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world,
manager. Both with long histories of hotel and
right?” - nope. The southernmost place to visit
outdoor managment, it is obvious when you first
in the world is not in Argentina at all. It’s lo-
meet them, they love
cated even further south
what they do.
than Tierra del Fuego,
My stay was a constant
on Isla Navarino,
distraction of eye
Chile - the small, time
candy; at every turn
forgotten, little village
in the lodge you are
of Puerto Williams. Most
hit by something
people haven’t heard of
beautiful. Either a
it. Most people will never
breathtaking view of
see it.VICTORY It’s truly beyond S.V.
the Dientes moun-
TECHNICAL DATA
the end of the world. The
tory is astops replicacan of a cargo next only be 70. It was designed by the aval architect, William Cape Horn, Antarcginal plans are found on ORY constructed by tica,wasthen the moon. in the area of Puerto Montt, nstruction, cypress wood from There are some things was build for navigation pe Hornstand and hasout since that inbeen this ay trips with two chambers each, with leather chairs, two world. Isla Navarino ms, dinning room/bar and a
holds claims to one
tain range on one side or the peaks of Tierra del Fuego on the other. The attention to detail, from the lounge area to the lobby, was impressive. Lakutaia is a remote
of these rare jewels -
and practically perfect
The Lakutaia Lodge,
destination settled in the
the southernmost
middle of the Cabo de
luxury lodge in the
Hornos Region in Chile,
S
3m, LOD :18 m
world.
which UNESCO an-
The first time I flew to
nounced as being a World
50 ton
:Puerto 16 ton
Williams, I could
a : 185 m2
Biosphere Reserve. The
see the lodge OO, turbo, 230 hp
natural beauty that sur-
nestled at the
truly unmatchable.
16 person from thecapacity plane,
foot of the mountains. But this was
ww.lakutaia.cl
nothing compared to my arrival at its
rounds Puerto Williams is The Lodge offers all inclusive 3 and 4 day packages as well as individual night
doorstep. Welcomed
stays. While there,
by smiling staff and an
you might run into
alert crew, I instantly
the groups that use Lakutaia
knew this place was a
as a jumping point on the way to Antarctica
diamond in the rough. I was so far from the outside
or Chilean Diplomants that are escaping from the
world in these wild sur-
real world for a
roundings, I was amazed
while. Either way
that this place offered
you will be a part of
such a masterpiece of
the elite few that get
detail and presentation.
to experience such
A warm, rustic lodge-
luxury, mixed with
style hotel that offered
such rugged beauty.
everything I could image and hope for. Horseback riding, kayaking, mountain biking, trekking, fly fishing, over flights of Cape Horn, historical tours of the island, in-house seminars,
You can contact Lakutaia at www.laktaia.
navigation trips into the Beagle Channel, guided
com or give them a ring at +56-61 621733.
tours of Omora Park and topped off with the best food I have ever had. www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Isla Navarino Trekking Guide If you still have not heard about Isla Navarino, it is not your fault. Most haven´t. This small island is located under Tierra del Fuego and offers the southernmost trekking routes in the world. In fact, it offers about 99% of the southernmost anything in the world (check it out on a world map sometime!). If you can, take a DAP flight from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino, you never know when you´ll have another chance in your life. If you are really hard core, take a stab at one of the circuits. The maps are out there, but you have to find them. The trails are super muddy and are only marked well in certain sections. These routes are not for the novice; we strongly suggest backcountry experience or hiring a guide. Most newer guidebooks include a Isla Navarino section although the information is limited. Inquire locally and be prepared for the unexpected. Head out fully equipped with extra food, fuel and time. For more detailed information about Isla Navarino trekking contact the Puerto Williams municipality at municipalidad@municipalidadcabodehornos.cl. Cerro Bandera circuit: Starting from la Cascada de la Virgen, located 3 km from
downtown, this roundtrip circuit takes approximately 4 hours, with easy to moderate difficulty. From the summit point you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Beagle Channel and Dientes de Navarino range. Circuito Dientes de Navarino: This is the southernmost trekking circuit in the world. The 53km takes at least 4 days and the difficulty is moderate to difficult. The climatic conditions are absolutely a determining factor in the completion of the circuit (SeptemberApril). Sendero de Chile: Isla Navarino holds the last 4.5km of the southernmost section of the longest trek in the world. This section on Isla Navarino begins in the Cascada Róbalo area, on the way to Cerro Bandera and ends at the Etno-Botanic Omara park. This is a great trek for viewing the abundant vegetation of Isla Navarino and its beautiful landscapes. Other circuits in Navarino: Circuito Caleta Unión to Caleta Wulaia Circuito Punta Rosales to Lago Windhond. Circuito Caleta Eugenia to Puerto Toro
Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Questions & Answers
The Municipality and the Puerto Williams Tourism Association Welcomes you to Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino, Chile
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How do I get to Puerto Williams? To get to Isla Navarino/Puerto Williams you have three main choices: The first is the slightly uncomfortable but adventurous ferry that takes 36 hours from Punta Arenas. The second is the twin otter that flies across the Darwin ranges and takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. The third is to go via Ushuaia and cross the Beagle Channel by zodiac. The choice is yours. Where is the downtown of Pto Willliams? It is strange to think that such a small place seems to have two centers. One is the centro commercial where you will find the post and DAP office, and then there are the supermarkets which are found facing each other along the road Piloto Pardo. Where can I sleep? There are actually quite few places to stay; some are cheaper than others. There is a luxuary hotel which is pretty expensive, and then there is a range of hostels and residenciales around town. Are there any internet cafes on Isla Navarino? Yes! But the connection is not so good. The two cyber cafés are at the Akainij travel agency in the centro comercial and the other is up the hill and is called Cape Horn Net Cyber Café. Can I rent equipment on Isla Navarino? Turismo Shila in the Centro Comercial provides a range of camping equipment. Another possibility is to take a guide who provides the equipment. Where can I find camping gas? Turismo Shila as well as some hostels sell camping gas. What can I find to do in downtown Pto. Williams? Well….you´ll just have to come and find out. How old is this town? The town was established in 1953 as a naval base. Why is the town here? Geopolitics. Can I drink the water on Isla Navarino? Yes you can, but be careful with drinking the water from beaver dams. Are there any animals I need to worry about on Navarino? Not really, but sometimes the dogs can be an annoyance. Do I have to pay anything to trek on the Dientes? Nope, free! Where do I start my trek? At Pilot Pardo Street - the cops. You have to leave info about your itinerary and return date. From there you can head to either one of the two trailheads. January 2007
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How do I get to Ushuaia from here? Ushuaia is NORTH (as in not south) from Williams. There is a Zodiac which has regular crossing from Isla Navarino to Ushuaia. Its fairly pricey but still a good option if you don’t want to backtrack. Information for this can be found at Café Angelus at the Centro Comercial. Where can I find a Dientes map? Ooooohh... That’s a tough one. There are trekking guides available at the tourism agencies. As there are only a few printed they usually ask you to photocopy them. Why are half of the buildings white in Pto. Williams? The white buildings are the Armada (Navy) buildings which house their offices and families. Is there a money machine in Williams? Yep, and it’s 24hrs as well, located at the Banco de Chile. Can I rent a car in Pto. Williams? No. What time do the stores open? Usually between 10:00 and 13:00, and then from 16:00/17:00 to 20:00. The supermarkets are open from nine in the morning to twelve at night. How many people visit Williams in a season? Well, in a year there are about 8,000 visitors to the island. Of this about 6,000 are cruiseship passengers and 2,000 overnight tourists that usually go trekking. How big is Isla Navarino? 40 by 100KM. Why does everyone say that Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world? This has been a false rumor that has been circulating for years to draw people to Ushuaia. Some say there are differences between a city and a town, but whatever - there is no place to live further south then Puerto Willliams. How far is Cape Horn? It’s about 165km south of Puerto Williams. Can I get to Cape Horn or Antarctica from Puerto Williams? Yes you can, but it will cost ya. Several yachts leave Puerto Williams to these destinations during the summer season. Are there any other towns on Isla Navarino? Yes, but they are even smaller. Puerto Toro is truly the southernmost town in the world and is only reached by boat. Puerto Navarino is basically two families big and then there are some farms around. What is the population of Puerto Williams? 2,262
Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Tourist Directory Hostales/Hostels
Fono/Phone
Direccion/Adress
e-mail address
Cabo de Hornos Camblor Coirón Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos Lajuwa Patagonia Pusaki Yagan Hospedaje Akainij Hotel Lakutaia Refugio El Padrino
621067 621033-621384 621227-621227 621140-621359 621267 621075 621116-621224 621118-621334 621173-621173 621733-621298 621136
Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Uspashun 64 Villa Ukika Yelcho 230 Piloto Pardo 222 Piloto Pardo 260 Austral 22 Seno Lauta s/n Costanera 276
purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com hostalcoiron@tie.cl rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostallajuwa@yahoo.es pedroortiz@chilesat.net pattypusaki@yahoo.es hostalyagan@hotmail.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com gerencia@lakutaia.cl ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
Restaurantes/ Restaurants Café Agelus Club naval de yates Micalvi Cabo de Hornos Camblor Dientes de Navarino Patagonia
621080 621042 621067 621033-621384 621074 621267-621075
Centro comercial norte 151 Seno Lauta Costanera s/n Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Centro comercial Sur 14 Yelcho 230
caminito@123mail.cl fgascogner@yahoo.es purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com
Agencias de turismo/ Tourist agencies Turismo Akainij 621327-621173 Turismo aventura Shila 621366 Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Turismo SIM 621150- 621225 Agencia Native tours 621183 Agencia Victory Cruises 621010-621092
Centro comercial Sur 156 O´Higgins 322 Uspashun 64 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Centro Comercial Sur 154b Teniente Muñoz 118
turismoakainij@chileaustral.com turismoshila@gmail.com rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostalcoiron@tie.cl maurice.vandemaele@gmail.com www.victory.cruises.com
Café Internet/ Cyber Café Cape Horn Net cyber café Turismo Akainij
Teniente Muñoz 118 Centro comercial Sur 156
captainben@victory-cruises.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com
Tiendas de Souvenier/Giftshops 55°Sur 621265 Isla hornos souvenier 621734
Centro comercial norte 147 Centro comercial sur 140b
fgascogner@yahoo.es
Servicio de guias/guide services Fuegia&CO
Yelcho 232
fuegia@usa.net
621010-621092 621327-621173
621251
pedroortiz@chilesat.net
Transporte/Transports Servicio de taxi Servicios maritimos y turisticos Aerovias DAP Ushuaia boating Lancha peregrino austral Lancha Dep. Ultramar agencia maritima
621387 621015 621114-621051 54 2901 436193 621015 621294-621075 621049
Mario Leal 145 Costanera 436 Centro comercial sur 151 Gob.Godoy 190-Ususahia Costanera 436 Yelcho 230 Arturo Prat 35
jgodoy@terra.cl ventas@aeroviasdap.cl ushuaiaboagting@argentina.com peregrinoaustral@terra.cl pedroortiz@chilesat.net isiagredo@ultramar.cl
Otros Servicios Cabalgatas el padrino Museo Martin Gusinde Sabores del Beagle
621136 621043 621136
Costanera 262 Com.Aragay 1 esq.Gusinde costanera s/n
ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar pgrendi@yahoo.com ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
For information contact: Av. B. O’Higgins 189 - Phone 621011 - 621013 municipalidad@municipalidadcabodehornos.cl
14
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Hostel Oro Fueguino Phone/FAX (56-61) 246677 Celular 09-1619890
Fagnano 356
Punta Arenas - CHILE
Reservations: orofueguino@terra.cl www.orofueguino.com
Money Exchange Patagonia will change your life. We can change your money.
Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chile
ph. +56-61 225889 Open all day
Nómades del Mar - by Diego Araya En un mundo de lejanía y viento, en un lugar donde los mares del mundo se tocan la piel, donde ser nómade es parte de una necesidad vital. Al igual que las antiguas tribus que habitaron estos mundos, al igual que los exploradores y sus vidas, son maderas del mundo que duermen en silencio en las costas del Cabo de Hornos la materia prima de Jimena Saiter para esculpir sus rostros y figuras. Y así como llegaron estas maderas a sus playas desde quien sabe donde , así algunas de ellas quizás vuelvan a navegar al garete por los mares del mundo esta vez vistiendo su rostro y semblante tras la metamorfosis que les provoco las preguntas de la escultora. …muy pronto comprendí que este viaje no sería un reporte de senderos y turismo, sino más bien una navegación pausada y nómade por esas historias que llamaré “El alma de Williams”.
15
Happy Belated Birthday Black Sheep!
Sports Massage now available in Natales
New Torres del Paine ticket re-entry policy
Interns needed in Patagonia
Ever forgotten somebody’s birthday? Ever for-
Tired and weary travellers now have an addition-
This year Torres del Paine has a new re-entry
erratic rock Hostel in Puerto Natales, Chile is
al reason to spend a relaxing day in Puerto Na-
policy. If you´re in the park and need or want to
now taking applications for volenteer interns
tales. Whether you are planning a trip to Torres
go back to Puerto Natales and afterwards return
for the 06/07 season. Volunteers exchange room
del Paine or returning, a sports massage will aid
to the park, you now have 1 day to do so without
and board for living and working in Patagonia.
in your muscle recovery. Andy Tubbs, a profes-
paying the entrance fee again. If you want to re-
Minimum time slots begin at 1 month stays. For
sional Adventure Racer and Massage Therapist
enter make sure to bring your passport and get
more information contact Erratic Rock at +56-
from San Fransisco, California will be providing
your ticket stamped at the entrance before you
61 410355 or through their web site
his services at Mandala Andino until March.
leave. Next day you can enter for free...
www.erraticrock.com
gotten your own? Well, we did! The V2, Issue 3 of the BS was our 1 year birthday and it passed us by without us even knowing it! No gifts, no singing, we just outright forgot. Thanks to some emails from abroad (and the ‘oso’ rubbing my nose in it), we were quickly informed of our oversight. The Black Sheep wants to thank all of the overwhelming support we have received, locally and internationally this last year. Our humble rag is now commonplace amongst travelers and backpackers in Patagonia. Our first year was a incredible success and we are constantly being surprised by where the Black Sheep is finding readers. So, Happy Birthday Black Sheep, you are 1 year and 1 month old!
A sports massage is not only for recovery, it’s also a great way to prepare your body to carring a heavy pack for multiple days over uneven ter-
Hotel Posada Tres Pasos Your country hotel...
rain. Sport massages are unlike relaxation massages because they target specific muscle groups at their trigger point. A sports massage is much more invigorating than a traditional swedish massage. Appointments can be made seven days a week at 415749.
New magazine promoting Patagonia A new magazine called Territorio Sur will be hitting the streets soon. The magazine began as an answer to the need for promoting some of the sports activities which have boomed recently here in Chile as well as the rest of the world. Chile, due to its morphology, presents spectacular natural landscapes to practice these activities, and in particular, Patagonia. In Patagonia diverse landscapes converge to give fantastic alternatives of imposing beauty to practice various sports activities such as kayak, mountain bike, horse riding, trekking, climbing or kite boarding. In this first issue we want to show the benefits that the city of Puerto Natales has to offer tourists as the nerve centre and departure point for the pursuit of adventure. They will pinpoint not only the top companies dedicated to the sports offered but they will show the locations, sites, hostels, restaurants amongst others which convert this city into a capital of adventure sports.
Trail Tips... Nalgene Bottles
If you’re not sure what a Nalgene bottle is, just find yourself a Yank, they will probably have one. These Lexan bottles are quickly becoming industry standard for trekkers and climbers. They are bullet proof, won´t leak and are guaranteed for life. These little bottles are a must while trekking. The large mouth-type makes for easier filling at a water source and for harvesting snow in an alpine environment, but a little more difficult to drink out of while walking. Here are a few good tricks... 1. While making your nightly boil for dinner on the trail, boil an extra liter to make your Nalgene a great hot water bottle for your sleeping bag. This will raise the average temperature of your bag and will do wonders for sore trekking feet. Throw your wet socks or gloves down there with the hot water bottle and it will dry everything like a oven in your sleeping bag. 2. Want eggs on the trail? Break a few eggs into a Nalgene for omelettes on that first morning out. This is a mess-free way of creating a breakfast upgrade. 3. Using a large mouth Nalgene to carry and protect dry & powdered goods is another great use. Whether it’s oatmeal or powdered soup mix for the long haul, a Nalgene can give you a hard, waterproof case. January 2007
Tel:(56) (2) 1969630
reservas@hotel3pasos.cl Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile Residencial
Bernardita Regular dorms & Private rooms with breakfast, hot showers, phone, private bathroom and cable TV - Tourist Infomation - Torres del Paine & surrounding areas O´Higgins 765 - ph & fax (56-61) 411162 Puerto Natales, Chile email itat@mixmail.com
Gear.
Mountain House
Address: Bories 655 L-2 Phone: (56-61) 222219 - cell: 09 91229555 Punta Arenas, Chile info@jeansport.cl
KAWESKAR
HOSTEL
...and the backpackers shall inherit the earth... Blanco Encalada 754 · 414553 Puerto Nartales, Chile
Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla kaiken Castor Krill Cordero
INGENIERIA Y CONSTRUCCIONES Eberhard 599 -Puerto Natales - fono 412592
andescorp@gmail.com
NIKO’S II Adventure Travel Agency *Regular Daily buses to Torres del Paine *Regular One Day Tours to Torres del Paine *Excursions to Torres Base
21 de Mayo 1469 Punta Arenas +56-61 241029 remezon@hotmail.com Comfortable Rooms Fully equiped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet and Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Patagonian Drinks Coffee shop José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@hotmail.com Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile
www.nikostwoadventure.
Phillipi 528 - Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 413543
16 A Patagonian (climbers) history The name alone quickens the pulse and sets the imagination in motion. Patagonia. It has been a place of adventure, trial and discovery for hundreds of years. A truly unique region, Patagonia has both an astounding environment and an equally engaging history. Dictated mostly by the accumulation, movement and ablation of ice, Patagonia boasts some of the world’s most sculpted landscapes. From the Torres Del Paine to Los Cuernos, Mt. Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, huge granite towers shroud the area in an air of grandeur. Dramatic fjords divide the west coast of Patagonia into an array of inlets and islands created by the cutting power of glacial melt. Patagonia’s latitude between 39 and 55 degrees south, combined with the cold temperatures influenced by the Humboldt Current off the coast of Chile, have caused Patagonia to develop the largest ice sheets in the southern hemisphere today outside of Antarctica. These ice sheets dominated the landscape periodically for thousands of years and their consequent movement has chiseled out the finer features of the region. The stark natural beauty of the area, combined with the unrelenting weather, has made this place famous around the globe. It is a place in which to truly observe the awesome power of nature. The dramatic scenery found in this region of the world is coupled with an equally interesting history. The names of the early
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Everything in Patagonia. Trekking Kayaking Penguins Horses Navigation Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. +56-61 225889 www.patagonialternativa.com
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
-by Jon Shea
explorers of Patagonia read like a who’s who of the international mountaineering community. From the famous English explorers H.W. Tillman and Eric Shipton, to the Italians Toni Egger and Cesare Maestri, and countless others, Patagonia has drawn some of the biggest names in climbing to its unique, isolated landscape. With serious climbing expeditions dating back to at least 1914, it took some years before the monster towers of Patagonia were climbed. The 1950s may have been the biggest decade for Patagonian exploration and climbing. In 1952, the famous Mt. Fitzroy saw its first ascent by Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone. Famed English explorer H.W. Tillman completed the first traverse of the South Patagonia Ice field in 27 days in 1955 to 1956, covering 60 kilometers. Eric Shipton, another notable Englishman, completed three large expeditions to the area in 1958, collecting a large number of plant species from remote areas. 1959 saw the now controversial first ascent of Cerro Torre by Italians Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger. Egger died in an avalanche after reportedly reaching the summit. Maestri claimed that the camera was taken away with Egger. Although Egger’s body was found in subsequent years, no camera or any other evidence of their reaching the summit has ever been produced. With well over 20 attempts to repeat this route, no one to this day has been able to conquer the upper north face, adding to the doubt surrounding the first ascent. Also in 1959, Shipton completed another expedition near the southern ice field, rediscovering the Lautaro volcano, which had been forgotten for 30 years. Subsequent years saw more and more exploration and first ascents by Shipton and his peers. Patagonia has now become an international destination for any serious climber looking for long alpine routes. The weather is most often the limiting factor of the climbs. First ascents are still being seen every year, not only on new routes on previously summited peaks, but also on peaks that have never before been climbed. The development of Patagonia as a testing ground for up-and-coming climbers will be interesting to watch in the years to come, as more and more routes are added to climber’s tick lists. The climbing history of Patagonia, however, is only a small part of the region’s identity. First reached by Westerners in the 1520s, Patagonia has always been a place of adventure and wild imagination. Magellan’s famous circumnavigation of the globe brought Patagonia into contact with the rest of the world. Magellan’s crew, the few that survived anyhow, would spread the
EL
fame of the Patagones, or the big-feet. The Patagonian giants, taller than a galleon, clad with animal skins and speaking in strange tongues, were sought after for many years by any sailor coming through the straights near Tierra del Fuego. In reality, however, pre-contact times saw four major tribes of indigenous people inhabiting this region. The Aonikenk, the Kaweskar, the Yamana and the Selk’nam lived in the different regions of Patagonia and Tierra Del Fuego. Unfortunately paralleling the story of North American native tribes, these indigenous people also faced constant relocation to various reservations, as well as epidemic diseases that severely reduced their populations. Some early anthropological studies, however, were able to document the elaborate ceremonial lives of some of these tribes. Another famous expedition to come to Patagonia was headed by an ambitious captain of the British navy. Robert Fitzroy took two trips to Patagonia aboard the Beagle. Although Fitzroy played a large role in the surveying of much of Patagonia and in the development of modern day meteorology, the Beagle is perhaps most well known for its second journey, when a young man named Charles Darwin accompanied the ship as a naturalist. Many sailors would come to see the rugged coastline of Patagonia as the straights near Tierra del Fuego made it an important trading route. Being one of the most viable trade routes to and from the west coast of North America, Punta Arenas, established in 1848, quickly became an important port town during the California gold rush. It was however not Californian gold, but the “white gold of Magellan” that brought true prosperity to the region. Sheep were introduced to the area between 1852 and 1877, and with the vast plains of eastern Patagonia, wool quickly became the primary product of the area. The wealth of the city is seen in the various mansions, artwork and delicate architecture of Punta Arenas. The wealth of the city declined, however, almost as quickly as it developed. As a port city, Punta Arenas relied heavily on trade. Ships from all over the world would come through, leaving goods from around the world and taking away raw materials such as wool. With the opening of the Panama Canal, however, this region was quickly forgotten as a trade route. Today, many of the cities in Patagonia rely heavily on tourism. Towns like Puerto Natales, only miles from the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park, cater to largely seasonal crowds who come to walk and wonder at the rugged mountains of this famous part of the globe. The
C ONV ENT IL L O
HOSTAL - ALBERGUE Pje Kor ner 1034
Punta Arenas, Chile Phone +56-61 242311 info@hos talelconventillo.com www.hos talelconventillo.com
governments of both Chile and Argentina have both recognized the value the unique region and have taken steps to ensure its preservation. Nahuel Huapi National Park in Argentina, created in 1922, was the first national park established in South America. It occupies 785,000 hectares of Patagonian steppe region and Andean forest and exemplifies the mountainous environment characteristic of Patagonia. Los Glaciares National Park is another important Argentine park, covering 600,000 hectares. Designated a world heritage site in 1981 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, Los Glaciares is home to not only Mt. Fitzroy, but also the Perito Moreno glacier, with an 80 meter ice cliff that has become a huge tourist attraction. In Chile, Torres Del Paine National Park, established in 1959, is the most popular of the Patagonian parks. In 1978, UNESCO declared this park a world biosphere reserve, and it is home to the famous Torres del Paine and Cuernos del Paine. Laguna San Rafael National Park is another important national park, located on Chile’s coast. It alone encompasses more that 1.7 million hectares and is home to the tallest peak in the southern Andes, Mt. San Valentin, at 4,058 meters. The austere but astounding landscape of Patagonia has attracted many conservation groups. Perhaps the most recognized of these groups is Patagonia Ltd., a clothing company. Started by world famous climber Yvonn Chouinard, Patagonia pledges 1 percent of its profits to conservation efforts in the area. After retiring in 1993 from her CEO position with the Patagonia clothing company, Kristine Tompkins moved to Patagonian Chile. In 2000, she founded the Patagonia Land Trust (PLT), now known as Conservacion Patagonica, in order to raise funds to protect natural areas in Patagonia. PLT has saved over 1.4 million acres in Chile’s Valdivian rainforest and Argentina’s Esteros wetlands, and in 2002, made possible the designation of Argentina’s first coastal national park, Monte Leon, with a 1.7 million dollar donation. PLT currently has several other projects underway to preserve the natural beauty and biodiversity of Patagonia. As the tourism industry grows in the area, the governments of both Chile and Argentina will be faced with new issues surrounding the preservation of Patagonia’s unique environment. The various conservation groups, combined with the international outdoor community’s interests, will no doubt play a large role in shaping the future of this distinct region.
17 Local Horse Guide Directory in Alphabetical Order
Horses.
Estancia Cerro Guido Comuna Torres del Paine Patagonia, Chile Phone (56-61) 21964807 www.lodgecerroguido.cl
A Patagonian Tradition . Blue Green Adventure
Estancia Perales
Bulnes 1200. Puerto Natales Phone 56 (61) 410009 www.bluegreenadventures.com info@bluegreenadventures.com
Eberhard 560. Pto. Natales Phone (56-61) 411978-411176 www.bagualesgroup.com info@bagualesgroup.com
Baqueano Zamora
Estancia Rosario
Baquedano 534. Puerto Natales Phone (56-61)613530-613531 www.baqueanozamora.com ventasbaqueanozamora@123.cl
Bulnes 37 . Pto.Natales Phone (56-61) 411273-410836 ganasa@ctcinternet.cl
Estancia Rio Los Ciervos
Jose Nogueira 1255 Phone (56-61) 262281- 710219 www.soloexpediciones.com contacto@soloexpediciones.com
Chile Nativo
Eberhard 230. Casilla 42 Puerto Natales Phone: (56-61) 411835-415474 www.chilenativo.com info@chilenativo.com
Estancia Tres Pasos
Km.38 norte. Torres del Payne fono (56-2) 1969630 reservas@hotel3pasos.cl
Estancia Travel
Puerto Bories 13-B, Puerto Natales Fono (56-61) 412221 www.estanciatravel.com info@estanciatravel.com
erratic rock 2 A hostel alternative for couples
benjamin zamora 732 Pto Natales ph +56 61 414317
Torres del Paine National Park Mountain Shelters : Grey - Dickson Campings: Grey - Dickson - Los Perros
Patagonia
w w w. e r r a t i c r o c k . c o m
Cama - Ducha - Comidas - Bar / Bed - Shower - Meals - Bar - Rental Equipment Reservas para todos los refugios y Programas con full servicio - Bus Regular al Parque Reservations for all the shelters & Full Service Programs - Regular Bus to the Park
andescape@terra.cl +56-61 412592 Same Day Return if dropped before noon- Show this ad - 10% off - Located near Erratic Rock
ers d a Re 1 # e oic Ch January 2007
Feeling Dirty...? The Milodon Laundry Service
Dropped before noon for same day return Open 10am-12pm & 2:30pm-8:00pm Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642
GOLDEN DRAGON
R E S TA U R A N T
Bulnes 439 - Puerto Natales M anuel SeĂąoret 908 - Punta Arenas
Ph +56-61 413110 Ph +56-61 241663
18 Leaving No Trace in Patagonia Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu. 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit.
campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes & streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary. In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent. In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.
feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater. 4. Leave What you Find Preserve the past, observe but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches. 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.
Durable surfaces include established trails and
To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200
Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.
www.aquanativapatagonia.com
Trail Tips...
Trail Etiquette
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience. While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy
Patagonia. 79% Water & Ice. You´ll need a kayak.
Eberhar d 161 Pto. Natales, Chile +56-61 415749
packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time. Sticking to the trails is important. Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or a puddle only widens the trail or creates a second, or sometimes third, trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Torres del Paine or on the Dientes Circuit (Patagonia). Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.
Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times i.e. mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.
Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises. Source http://www.nols.edu/lnt/principles.shtm
Nueva Imagen Gymnasium & Spa Hand & Foot Therapies machine & free weights sauna sun bed Massage room Chocolate Therapy
Chilean Moonshine In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you´re lucky enough, you´ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (A lot of meat... good luck if you are a vegetarian!) But you´ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. They are very keen on making drinks based on pisco and there are many pisco-mixed drinks out there. The first in line is a Pisco Sour. Try different Pisco Sours in different places because they can be made differently. There is also a great Calafate Sour based on the same mix. But you can also make them yourself in your hostel, or even once you get home.
Pisco Sour 3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes. Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it is almost a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so go for it and enjoy!
•Located across from Plaza de Armas•
Experience Chile... Specializing in...
traditional Chilean lamb asados, grilled meats, seafood and shellfish.
Carlos Bories 430 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 410999 www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance.
7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors 3. Dispose of Waste Properly
Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint.
6. Respect Wildlife
Eusebio Lillo 1417 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 412052
Sincerley, Shackleton I was a kid when I first heard about the great leader and explorer: Shackleton. By then I led the normal life of any accommodated Chilean kid from Santiago. I remember, I was a lazy boy scout and a mediocre one on top. I was one of those who, wanting to be leaders, neither approved nor supported the activities scheduled in the official program, and who, instead always proposed new, crazy, imaginative and probably dangerous alternatives. It was in the middle of one of the intolerable and excruciatingly boring speeches of our group commander, when I heard the name of an Antarctic hero, I must have been 9 at that time, a name I shall never forget: Shackleton. When I was not at school I spent my free days at my uncle’s farm. This place was a fabulous corner of secrets, mysteries and adventures, but most of all it was the home of my uncle and living idol “Pato”, as he wanted me to call him. He was the one who first invited me to dream of the mystery of the Egyptian pyramids, the secrets hidden under the Palenque ruins in the Mayan jungle, and the dream like stories of Ítalo Calvino, the writer. Once at dinner, I was boring Pato by telling him all my school anecdotes when suddenly I mentioned the name of Shackleton. Just mentioning that name changed my uncle’s expression. It turned out that for him, the voyage of the Endurance was not just another tale of adventure, for him it was the most extraordinary testimony of the spirit of courage, survival instinct, leadership and the symbolism they represented on the eve of the First World War was a unique sample of mankind’s eternal and beautiful contradictions. That evening Pato talked for hours, and I listened and listened and just couldn’t get bored. Since that night, Shackleton and his crew became for me a reference for adventure, any adventure, and it was probably this spirit of adventure that eventually brought me to Patagonia. Many years later, I was already living in Patagonia, my mother called me from Santiago, telling me that there was an old friend of hers inviting me to stay for a weekend at their old house in Punta Arenas. On a sidenote, whoever is interested in Patagonia has to learn about this town. Punta Arenas is not a touristy resort, it does not (yet) provide those common tourist amenities that you find in other places; it is simply the genuine capital of the Patagonian tradition. The family I was going to visit had left the house many years earlier, but they kept it because of its cultural value. It goes with out saying that I gladly accepted the invitation.
19
by Max Salas
It was in July of 2002, in the middle of the southern winter, when I called Don Juan and Doña María the old couple who were taking care of the house. Next thing I knew, there I was, in this incredible house. Not big but tall, old English architecture, full of books, pictures, paintings and memories. One night, it was just before dinner, when Don Juan came to see me in the living room. “Is everything OK Mr. Salas?” he kindly asked. I told him that I could hardly believe all the things that were in there. Those books and paintings, the furniture, all this must somehow be, the core of Patagonian history. “Yes, it is truly our treasure”, he answered. “I’m glad you can appreciate it, so please, before you leave, remember to sign our guest book, all our important guests have signed it, and since you can appreciate what is in this house, I guess you deserve to be in the book as well”. Without further comment he passed me an old, heavy, leather covered guest book. The living room window looked out to the Straight of Magellan; there was a little tea table with a sofa next to it. With a beer in hand I sat down and carefully started to browse this enigmatic book. Pinochet’s signature was there, and so were those of all sorts of ministers. European aristocrats, millionaires and billionaires mingled with a few murderers, aborigines killers, hunters, gold diggers, poets, painters, Nobel Prize winners - in other words, all the fauna that, incredibly enough, is also part of Patagonia. When I looked at the pages at the very beginning of the book, I found a picture with a signature and a few lines that were written in the same handwriting and with the same pen: “We were the fools who could not rest in the dull earth we left behind but burned with passion for the south, drank strange frenzy from its wind. The world where the wise men sit at ease, fade on our unregretful eyes And thus, across this uncharted seas, we stagger on our own enterprise.” July of 1916, Punta Arenas.
Rustike
D ow n Tow n H o s t e l
ames ture fr s · Pic rt · Crafts p m a les · L s rs · A Cand se · Mirro andicraft Incen ed glass · H Stain
Address: Armando Sanhueza 555 Phone: (56-61) 222219 - 221009 Cell Ph: 09 91229555 - 09 84394174 Punta Arenas, Chile info@downtownhostel.com www.downtownhostel.cl
Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile
N e a r S h o p p i n g & S e r v i ce s
Hostal
Isla Morena
Twin Rooms Double Rooms Library Restaurant
Tomás Rogers 38 - Puerto Natales, Chile - (56-61) 411162 www.chileaustral.com itat@mixmail.com
HOTEL ALCAZAR
...with all private bathrooms M.Balmaceda 722 • 412889 hotelalcazar@gmail.com Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413360 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
Goosebumps, moisture in my eyes, a shiver down my spine, and a memory that will stay with me for as long as I live. Imagine, my hero, the eternal leader and survivor had written a poem just for me and finally - exactly 86 years later – it was delivered on the shores of the Magellan Straight. It was, in this very same book I was going to sign, the signature of Sir Ernest Henry Shackelton.
Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs
On the corner of Magallanes and Señoret ph 56-61-413723 www.cormorandelasrocas.com cormorandelasrocas@gmail.com January 2007
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
20 Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61 415749
Clean & Natural Outdoor tubs Massages Natural Bar Outdoor Center Relaxation Therapies
relaxation specialists... Chile, un país de Vinos -by Carmen Gloria Barros El vino en Chile ha alcanzado un nivel altísimo de competencia a nivel mundial. Factores climáticos y geográficos indiscutibles mas una tradición de mas de cinco siglos de producción vitivinícola y una visión técnica empresarial han hecho que hoy camine de la mano del cobre y se muestre como bandera identitaria ante los mercados internacionales. Al recordar un poco de historia ….Cristóbal Colon en su segundo viaje a las Antillas introdujo la vid en América, si hablamos de responsables de la conquista española es quien, dio curso a la producción de vinos en el continente, comenzó paralela a la ocupación de terrenos “en nombre de Dios y del Rey “ ya que la Evangelización requería como parte del ritual del sacramento de la Eucaristía el vino como parte fundamental. Es por esta razón que en nuestro país se cultivan variadas cepas, que fueron traídas de Francia por los grande viticultores de la época, como son: sauvignos blanc, chardonnay, merlot, carmenere y cavernet sauvignon siendo esta ultima la gran llamada cepa madre de Chile por producir los mejores vinos tintos del mundo, sin embargo la característica relevante es que pertenecen a la original Vitis Vinífera, diferenciándola de países europeos en que sus principales vides se asientan en porta injertos debido a cierta plaga de origen norteamericano, ataco
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
a fines del 1800 las vides europeas causando perdidas en la producción de vinos del continente. Esta plaga llamada filoxera vivió algún tiempo en Norteamérica sin producir problemas a las vides allí plantadas, al parecer por ser resistentes a sus efectos, pero al introducirlo en Europa, comenzó a atacar a Francia, España y luego Italia, provocando uno de los desastres mas graves conocidos en la agricultura del viejo continente. Al hablar de vinos, se puede decir que Chile sin lugar a dudas es un paraíso vitivinícola ya que posee condiciones extraordinarias para el cultivo de cepas que mas tarde producirán vinos. De estas se destacan tres características principales: el clima, el estado de aislamiento que presenta Chile y la ubicación privilegiada con límites y barreras naturales. Pero lo más importante es la calidad de la uva que obtendremos: la variedad de vinífera junto al clima y al suelo son los tres factores determinaran el terroir ya que tienen una incidencia directa sobre el sabor, color y aroma del vino posteriormente. En cuanto a condición climática: Chile es un país ideal si analizamos esta condición, a pesar de ser muy largo posee en general un clima templado, lo que da las cuatro estaciones bien marcadas, lo
que se traduce que en noviembre hasta pasada la vendimia en el mes de abril mas o menos son muy escasas las lluvias; las temperaturas altas del verano tiene grandes ventajas desde un punto de vista sanitario ya que nuestro país presenta una carga de pesticidas muy bajos, lo que es interesante internacionalmente; al igual que la amplitud térmica que supera los 17ªC, sin contar el alto grado de luminosidad que permite cosechas bastante sanas. El invierno se presenta siempre lluvioso y bien frío y es en esta estación en que las vides están en dormancia, es decir duermen, es por esto que no les afecta que llegue de pronto la primavera suave y ayude al despierte de la parra. Todo favorece el crecimiento sano de la planta minimizando así infecciones y enfermedades por lo que logra la madurez deseada, como también la obtención de gran concentración de aroma y color.
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
International Black Sheep Send us your Black Sheep photos and if we post your picture, we’ll send you a copy, anywhere in the world! ...we´ll make you famous.
tica
Jordi - Pa
y, Antarc radise Ba
Kim & N
ienke - P
inkpop,
Dada esta misma condición es que encontramos diferentes valles con distintas características que favorecen la producción vitivinícola. Estos se ubican desde el Valle del Limari cerca del desierto en la IV Región de Coquimbo hasta la IX Región de la Araucania. Gentileza de Emporio de la Pampa.
Steffi - Valle de
la Luna, Chile
Netherla
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