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Black Volume Volume 4 4 • • Issue Issue 6 6 • • February February 2009 2009 • • www.patagoniablacksheep.com www.patagoniablacksheep.com • • Cover Cover image image by by ???? Naphtilina
Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Newspaper
Sheep
Banff Film Festival Puerto Natales ‘09
Trail Tips Torres del Paine
Isla Navarino The Dientes Circuit
The southernmost source of blisters in the world
Treasure trail!
The Patagonian Valentine’s Day Issue Recycle this paper! Pass it on. Recycle this paper! Pass it on.
®
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About Black Sheep - Rustyn Mesdag, publisher
Suscripción Chile valor por 8 meses: $10.000 CLP International cost for 8 months: $50.00 USD Envía tus datos al email: blacksheepchile@gmail.com Inmediatamente nos comunicaremos contigo.
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e are a grass roots travel newspaper, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language paper. We publish eight issues per year, coinciding with Patagonia’s high season, from September to April. Our web site community, with up-to-the-minute info, gives travelers a space to share their experiences. We are expats and locals. We are travelers, and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help them plan their adventures to the bottom of the world. We are backpackers, and we believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We believe in unguided adventure. We sleep in tents, and we camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We hitchhike. We recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being a part of the solution, not the problem. We believe that reggae music can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open & free for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe YOU can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that what you pack in, you pack out. We believe travel is about experience, culture, living like the locals, respecting Pachamama, and going home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe that backpackers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. Black Sheep is a bridge between advertiser and traveler. We search out the hip and reputable tour operators, lodging, restaurants, handicrafts, outdoor stores and mom & pop shops. Businesses that we think are especially groovy merit our stamp of approval, which means they... • Love the environment and practice eco-friendliness in their business • Are locally owned • Give back to the community • Offer something free to customers and quality service The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers.We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.We are:
Publisher/Designer:
Pucón & Pto. Varas, Chile:
Rustyn Mesdag editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
Anthony Riggs anthony@patagoniablacksheep.com
Director:
Jamie Schectman jamie@patagoniablacksheep.com Shanie Matthews shanie@shaniematthews.com
Bariloche, Argentina:
Pilar Irribarra info@patagoniablacksheep.com
Editor/Layout:
Calafate, Argentina:
Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
Maria Fourcade negrafourcade@hotmail.com Federico Fourcade pod_smolik@hotmail.com
Graphic Design: Leslie Venti leslie.venti@gmail.com
Aside from publishing the Black Sheep, I am one of the owners of a hostel called ‘erratic rock’ in Puerto Natales. A backpackers hostel that has been around for about five years. Over time, a few truths have presented themsleves. Things I never would have thought about unless I’d worked in this business down at the bottom of the world. Things like: every year people travel with more stuff and bags and backpacks. We’ve seen guys with full sized backpacks, with a loaded day pack hanging off the front, with a bag in one hand and a Lonely Planet in the other. WTF? How it was done when I was traveling the world, which was to see how small and light your pack could be. The smaller the pack, the cooler you were. And if you were traveling until the money ran out (instead of until the time ran out) you were the coolest.That probably the fundimental difference between travelers and tourists. Or another one is the fact that some international stereotypes are true. I won’t go into that one, but you travelers know what I’m talking about. And the big one: that is that a large percentage of the people who travel long term are traveling in the form of couples. Most peoples first choice for a travel companion is their life companion.Vacationing, traveling and trekking with your significant other is a common way to see the world. But with this type of joint-traveling comes not only all the good, but some extra travel stress as well. Travel stress is real and puts extra pressure on couples, who are on vacation trying to relieve stress. A small arguement that could be easily forgotten by giving each other some space, is not as easy if you are trapped on a bus, all night, sitting next to each other. Or trying to calmly, yet firmly, explain your side of a misunderstanding, while sitting in a crowded hostel with other international travelers. Sometimes you are just in each others space for days at a time. I have met couples who had a great life and relationship back home, but their vacation broke them up. Or couples who met on the road, traveled together beautifully for months, or even years--even got married--but when returning to ‘real life’ back home, they found real life wasn’t like the road, and they split up. It takes the best of ourselves to deal with the pressures of a relationship while dealing with the pressures of other cultures, foods, systems and travel fatigue. There is no way to escape, no way to out-smart it. The best way to handle these things is simply to know that it’s real, and accept that the pressure exists. You can only be with your partner for so long before you realize that they are just a real person, like yourself. The starry-eyed phase fades away after a while and eventually you see the ‘real’ parts of your
partner: bad moods, bad breath, sickness and vomit, walking into a smelly bathroom after them or just a bad day in general. It happens to us all. It’s normal and it’s part of the ride. What we have to appreciate is how few people are actually down here in Patagonia. I know that everyone talks about ‘high season’ and all the craziness on the trail, but the truth is it’s next to nothing. Take Torres del Paine, for example. The last numbers I heard were just under 150,000 people visiting the Park. That’s not a lot in the ‘world’ of tourism. If you compare that to other world-famous national parks around that take in 3-5 million people per season, it helps keep things in perspective. But one of the big reasons that there are so few travelers down this far is because it’s a difficult place to get to and travel through.That said, if you are here traveling, you’re part of a small, eclectic group of travelers. If you are traveling with your significant other, you belong to an even smaller group of travelers. Bottom line, there are few of us here, and after these years in Patagonia, it’s obvious to me how cool we all are. We all chose Patagonia. We could have gone to Jamiaca or Holland, or some other warm and easy destination. But we didn’t. We chose Patagonia. We all had our reasons. We all had a pretty good idea what we were in for. There are lots of tricks to relieve pressures and find ways to find understanding in difficult situations, but the bottom line is patience and acceptance. Understand that travel and trail stress is real, and we are all in the same boat. Take it all with a grain of salt, roll with the little things and remember that deep down you’re having the time of your life. Try to find some time to get awat from each other a bit. Exploring different sides of town alone, and bring reports back can be fun, or even travel seperatly for two or three days with a meeting point in a new city can be exiting as well as a good way to get some space from each other. It also makes you respect your partners traveling skills again. You can always look back and remember the time you and your partner ‘met’ in that cool B&B, in some strange location in Patagonia The next time you are looking at your travel companion with a bit of disgust or frustration, try to to see that person with different eyes. Try to see them as a memeber of a very small group, an elite adventurer who decided to take on Patagaonia-with you for the good and the bad (and you’re not perfect either!). Everyone has bad days, but that comes with the territory. Would you rather be traveling with someone who would never dare leave their little bubble of security back home? Be happy knowing that you landed a partner who was ready to take it all on. And oh yeah... have a great Valentines Day!
Distribution:
Punta Arenas, Chile:
Patricio Alderete Luis Miranda
Puerto Natales, Chile:
La Prensa Austral
Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com
Printed by:
Santiago
Carolina “C.J.” Wilson cjwilson07@gmail.com
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© 2008 All rights reserved. The contents of this paper may not be reproduced in whole or in part without consent of the copyright owner. Black Sheep design is a registered trademark. Published by Southern Cross, Ltda. Printed in Chile.
www.andeshostel.com (56-2) 632 9990 - 632 9173
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Patagonia Bus Schedules Schedules may alter slightly for the winter season. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions. Note: During daylight savings time, there is a time difference between Chile and Argentina.
Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos
Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas
Buses Ghisoni Ph. 613420 L. Navarro 975
Mon. & Wed. thru Sat. 11.00
Buses Ghisoni Terminal Río Gallegos
Tues. & Thu. thru Sun. 12.00
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Tue., Fri., Sun. 11.30
Buses Pacheco Terminal Río Gallegos
Mon., Wed., Sat. 12.00
Punta Arenas - Ushuaia
Ushuaia - Punta Arenas
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Every day 09.00
Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Tecni Austral Ph. 222078 L. Navarro 975
Tue., Thu., Sat. 07.30
Tecni Austral Roca 157
Mon., Wed., Fri. 07.00 Mon., Wed., Fri. 05.30
Puerto Natales - Ushuaia
Ushuaia - Puerto Natales
Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500
Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Every day except Sat. 07.30 (with a bus change near PA)
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
Mon., Wed., Fri. 07.00 (with a bus change near PA)
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez Ph. 411111 E. Ramírez 399
Daily 07.15 09.00 13.00
14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00
Buses Fernandez Ph. 221812 A. Sanhueza 745
Daily 08.00 09.00 13.00
14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00
Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500
Daily 07.30 10.00
13.30 19.30
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Daily 08.30 14.00
18.00 19.30
Bus Sur Ph. 411859 Baquedano 668
Daily 07.00 10.00
15.00 19.00
Bus Sur Ph. 614224 José Menéndez 552
Daily 09.00 15.00
17.00 19.00
Puerto Natales - El Calafate
El Calafate - Puerto Natales
Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456
Cootra Terminal de Ómnibus
Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236
Daily 08.30 M, W, F & Sun.: 07.00 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00 & 14.30
Zaajh Terminal de Ómnibus
Travel Times
Chile / Argentina Buses
Torres del Paine Buses
Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park) El Calafate
5 hrs
TdP Laguna Amarga
2 hrs 30
Punta Arenas
3 hrs
TdP Pudeto
3 hrs 15
Ushuaia
15 hrs
Torres del Paine Admin.
3 hrs 45
Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas (allow time for border crossings) Puerto Natales
3 hrs
Río Gallegos
6 hrs
Río Grande
8 hrs
Ushuaia
13 hrs
Puerto Natales – Torres
del
Paine
Torres
del
Paine – Puerto Natales
Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45
14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00
Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45
14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45
14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00
Note: Please check with bus companies directly for updated information.
Daily 08.30 W, F & Sun.: 08.00 T, Th & Sat.: 17.00
El Calafate - El Chaltén
El Chaltén - El Calafate
Chaltén Travel Ph. 491833 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.00, 13.30, 18.30
Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande
Daily 07.30, 18.00
CalTur Ph. 491842 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.00
CalTur Avenida San Martín 520
Daily 15.00
Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus
M, W, F: 17.30
Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande
T, Th, Sat.: 07.30
El Calafate - Río Gallegos
Río Gallegos - El Calafate
Sportsman Ph. 492680 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 12.30
Sportsman Ph. 442595 Rancho Grande
Daily 20.00
Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 12.00, 14.30
Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande
Daily 12.00, 14.00
Interlagos Ph. 491273 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 04.00
Interlagos Ph. 442080 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 13.30
P l annin g me al s f or t he trail Eating properly while on the trail will not only keep your energy up, but also keep the team happy and postive. Planning the amounts and types of food is one of the biggest challenges of any backcountry trip. If you’re traveling in a group, find out if anybody has any food restrictions (vegetarians, food allergies?). Discuss the menu before you head to the store. Make a day-by-day list of meals and snacks, complete with ingredients, for the exact amount of people in your group. Break down how many scoops of oatmeal you’ll need, the number of dry soup packets and and chocolate bars. Try not to plan for too much food. If you come home with enough grub to last you another day or two, it means you carried an extra 1-2 kilos in your pack. It’s best to shoot for 3,000 calories per day. Light eaters can get away with less (maybe 2,500) where a big eater might want to bump it up to around 3,500. Dehydrated meals are all the rage, but they often taste like cardboard. Sure, they might save some weight in your pack, but they take away some of the fun of preparing meals at camp. If you can cook it at home, there is a way to cook it on the trail. Prepping spices and cut veggies at home also makes packing and consumption easier. After the big meal shop, remove all packaging and excess garbage that you won’t need on the trail. This step will make more space in your pack and leave you with less to carry out later. Repack all your food into doubled and labeled, resealable plastic bags. Consider it a fun challenge to eat well and pack light. When packing your tools for cooking, try to not bring any piece of gear that only serves one purpose. Don’t bring a cutting board, for example. Something like the lid to your cooking pot can double as a cutting surface.
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Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential
questions & answers
Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the
What’s the Park entrance fee? D go La
What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m.
In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park around 2.30 p.m., más o menos. Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.
Torres del Paine Refugio Information Prices are in U.S. dollars*
Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.
una a Lagm rg A a
tow n s
park entrance jold ensk Nörd Lago
Lago Pehoe
c amping iento Sarm Lago
ro a d s tr ai l s r i vver er
Lago Verde
Sierra del Toro
Lago del Toro
Cerro Castillo
Pueblito Río Serrano
s iggin O’H k ardo ar Bern tional P Na Puerto Toro
Últim
a Es
pera
Is it better to trek the Park clockwise or counterclockwise?
Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 albergue@lastorres.com
Torres d del Paine National tion ional Park
nza
Fjor d
Argentina
When’s the latest I can start my trek?
Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.
C amp o del Hielo Sur - Patagonian S outhern Ice Field
How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.
How much money should I carry into the Park with me? 15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios.
ine el Pa rk a ed d Torr tional P Na
G l a c i er Gre y
ey Gr go La
How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.
Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas.
Azul Lago
n so
What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.
How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free.
e Pain Lago
ick
15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD).
don Milo Cave
Puerto Natales
You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.
Vertice +56-61 412742 ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Breakfast
$10.00
Dorm bed
$40.00
Lunch
$14.00
Campsite
$8.00
Dinner
$18.00
Sleeping bag
$9.00
Full board
$80.00
2-person tent $14.00 Mattress
standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.
$3.00
*Prices are approximate and may be slightly higher at some refugios. Note: Check with the refugio companies directly for the latest info on prices, openings or closures.
How much does the catamaran between Pehoe and Pudeto cost? It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.
Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.
Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?
Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples.
Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season. Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.
Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food. Should I worry about bugs in the Park? Bug repellent is definitely a good idea, especially on the back of the Circuit or when the weather warms up and the wind chills out.
I’m doing the circuit. Is there anything I should know before I go? Do the circuit counterclockwise. It’s a good idea to start with the W. This will lighten your food load when you head over the pass. After Campamento Perros, make sure you go LEFT, following the PINK ribbons. Do not cross the river. (The rightside trail with orange paint is old, unkempt and knee-deep muddy for a couple of hours.) How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.
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The perfect trekking partner?
T
raveling is hard. Anyone who says different isn’t a traveler; they’re a tourist. A traveler’s life and their trip are one in the same, living life while traveling rather than taking a vacation from life. There’s a cool, unspoken code between travelers: trust. Trust that no one is going to rummage through your backpack in the hostel or that another backpacker will keep an eye on your stuff while you’re in the bathroom. We meet people on the road, talk, share meals, and travel with strangers. In this environment, it’s certainly not uncommon to meet another person who also needs a trekking partner. The best thing you can hope for is meeting a new friend that will be with you forever, and the worst thing that can happen is you can get hooked up with someone who’s not trustworthy or who is just plain annoying. So, how do you choose the perfect trekking partner? How do you tell someone it’s not working out? How do you tell a complete stranger that they’re bugging the crap out of you? The big choice... Deciding who you want to trek with is as important to as the itinerary itself. You may have a specific goal for your trip, or you may just want to spend time with the group. The trick is making sure everyone is on the same page.We’re all individuals with our individual quirks, and that’s great. But it’s better to find out if your idiosyncrasies mesh before the trip. Develpoing a standard trail conduct for the team can usually prevent most problems. Things like diet, sleeping arangements, nudity, wake up times, or even the route are good indicators of how the trip will be. Another important detail is the average pace of the group. One person’s goal may be to experience a relaxing spiritual awakening and another’s goal may be to push themselves physically, reach their limits and surpass them. A pairing like this could cause a problem.
After the fact... So what happens when you’re already out on the trail when you realize your new trekking partner isn’t working out? Option 1. Take the high road. Try to deal with it. Is it really that bad? Can you handle it for the sake of the trip? Just suck it up a little? Option 2. Talk with your team about what’s got your panties in a bunch, and see if the problem can be solved. Don’t under-estimate the power of peer pressure. There might just be others in the group that feel the same way. Most people will try to overlook problems and not say anything. If you mention what’s bugging you, you may even end up being the hero of the trip. Option 3. Bail. Get out. Run. But how?
How to seperate... If for some reason you know it’s time to call your partnership quits and you’re ready to go your own way (or send somebody else packin’), think about these things first... 1. Safety first. Never leave a partner in a situation where they--or you--may be put in harm’s way. Nobody should ever be left without proper equipment, food supplies, or knowledge. Even if you manage to split the food, fuel, and tents, there is no way to split experience. The group dynamic from the beginning may have lead to the trek or climb that was chosen. The mountains are no place for assumptions when dealing with safety. 2. No secrets. Never try to depart secretly or run off witout saying a word. And no fake reasons, no lies. Be polite; don’t let frustration or anger get the best of you, but do explain why you’re bugging out of the trip. If you have the balls enough to leave mid-trip, then have the balls enough to say why. This also has to do with saftey. People need to know where you’re going, specifically, and why. 3. Equipment is often divided among the group. It might not be possible to just take off. Someone could
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS From Pudeto
From Refugio Pehoe
November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009
09.30* 12.00 18.00
10.00* 12.30 18.30
March 16 - 31, 2009
12.00 18.00
12.30 18.30
April 2009
12.00
12.30
The perfect trekking partner... No one wants to dump a partner--or be dumped. So, what does make the perfect trekking partner? The list is long and maybe undefinable, but here are a few tricks to impress the rest of your team... 1. 2.
Have a sense of humor; it’s a trekker’s best friend When it’s time for a water run at camp, grab everyone’s water bottle for a fill up. 3. Hide extra treats in your pack to share with the team, or surprise them with a snort of whiskey on day four. 4. Mind your personal hygiene. Enough said. 5. Don’t be the first to complain about foul weather conditions. Don’t be that guy! 6. Be responsible for the distance between you and the person in front of you. It makes people nervous to have someone on their tail. 7. Thou shalt not covet thy neighbors food or gear. Nothing is more annoying than a trekking partner who planned and packed poorly and assumes that the rest of the team will take care of them. Don’t be that guy either! Be the one who brought a little extra toilet paper or dried fruit. 8. Be prepared to carry a little extra. Carrying the garbage or the wet tent shows leadership and sets a good example, and creates an upward spiral. 9. Try to avoid gassing out your tent partner. 10. Wake up before everyone else. Greeting your teammates with a hot drink in the morning is what legends are made of.
F r e s h H 2 o. n at u r e ’ s Lu b r i c a n t. While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you’d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp in mild weather would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: Clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that’s different. If you’re feeling thirsty, then you’re already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also signs of dehydration. Take time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It’s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a liter in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it’s so important to drink continually all day. Patagonia is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So, bottoms up!
! w e nolin on
2008-2009 Season Schedule
Dates
be left holding the stove, while another has the fuel, and a tent can’t be divided like a chocolate bar. If you have any doubts or a history of wanting to go your own way, you’d better plan for this possibilty in advance. It’s a bit heavier, but you can still trek with a group while staying self-sufficient. Then, at any point, if the pace or your destination changes, you have the freedom to do what you need to do.
*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2008 & 01/01/2009.
One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person
A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
Fotografia © 2008 Daniel Bruhin W.
Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net
www.patagoniachilenatravel.com www. camaraturismoultimaesperanza.cl Phillipi 660, modulo 28, puerto natales (56-61) 415721
February.09
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Romancing the Trail
10 hot ideas to celebrate Valentine’s Day in Torres del Paine feminine hygiene on the trail On the trail it’s important to have a plan for that special time of the month. A change in environment, physical exercise and the stresses attached to these things can sometimes lead to changes in a woman’s cycle, including early or late cycle start, cessation or a heavier flow. While there is no permanent worry in either case, it’s a good idea to be prepared. Experienced female guides typically carry extra sanitary material, just in case. In general carrying one-third more tampons or pads is a safe bet, even if you’re not expecting your cycle to come while you’re in the woods. For disposal, the same rules of waste apply: Pack it in. Pack it out. Do not bury tampons or pads! Aside from the fact that they take a long time to biodegrade, they also present a fire hazard if they become unburied. A doubled, resealable plastic bag works well. Place this bag system into a small stuff sack to keep it private. If you’re worried about smell, try crushing a regular aspirin and sprinkling it into the bag. As far as peeing in the woods is concerned, men may not need to worry about toilet paper, but women take such things into consideration. Carrying a constant supply of toilet paper, always ready and handy, can be inconvenient. Plus, it’s more weight to carry. Consider reusing a bandana or special cloth as a pee rag. It may sound gross, but when it will dry out when you lay it in the sun or tie to the back of your rucksack on a warm day. The rag will be sterilized and dry enough to reuse until you get it to camp for a wash.
By Brenna Horan Spending the week of St. Valentine’s Day in the park? Although a week of backpacking through nature, covered in a interesting paste made up of sunscreen and dust, may not sound incredibly romantic; the tips below will be sure to spice up your trekking adventure. A romantic weekend in the park may be an unconventional way to celebrate Valentine’s Day, but it could also be one of the most memorable experiences you share with your partner. So whatever the elements bring, wind, rain, snow or sunshine, the following ideas are sure to warm your partner’s heart. 1.
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The simplest way to create a romantic atmosphere during your trek, and life in general, is to show your feelings to your partner through loving gestures incorporated into your daily activities. Effortless gestures such as holding hands while hiking, and sharing a few kisses during breaks along the trail go a long way towards setting the mood. A thoughtful gesture for along the trail is to sneak your partner’s favorite treat into your backpack, and surprise them along the trip. Cheese, nutella, peanut butter… chose something light and durable, that won’t be available in the park. Another simple way to spark romance along the trail is to bring along two lightweight (and small) flaslights that can be hidden under a simple cone of yellow paper for a fire safe and fire-less campsite. A soft, fake, warm glowing fire can still make the difference between a
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quick forced meal and a romantic candlelit dinner. One of the greatest benefits of camping for your 14th, or anytime for that matter, is that the cold weather calls for more physical contact at night. A professional climber informed me that the most efficient way of sharing body heat is to be completely naked, without any clothing blocking exchange of warmth. Doublewide sleeping bags made especially for couples, sold by both Marmot and Kelty, may be a worthwhile investment. If that option is too pricey, there is always the older method of zipping compatible sleeping bags together. Sore muscles along the trail are a given after hiking for hours up trails with heavy backpacks. One of the best gifts one partner can give the other is a late night massage to help loosen those aching muscles. Breakfast-in-bed (or more correctly, in a sleeping bag) is a simple yet sweet idea to start off a day. Even if the breakfast is only oatmeal, or even cereal bars and dried fruit, your partner will not overlook the romantic gesture. Another idea is purchasing a bottle of wine at a refugio, and pulling it out of your backpack for whatever romantic moment is deemed worthy, whether at the top of a mirador, or for an after dinner drink. Be sure you have a wine opener though! A late night walk looking up at the stars, which are so brightly lit away from the city’s light pollution, is a cheap but romantic way to
enhance your trip.You also have the option of bringing a sweet treat with you, like a bar of chocolate, or dried fruit dipped in Nutella. 9. One last, but more difficult idea, is a romantic serenade. You may be lucky enough to have someone with a guitar at your campsite, and a late night serenade for the evening of the 14th would be sure to make your trekking experience unforgettable for both you and your partner. 10. And lastly, the best way to end your trip is to view the sunrise in your sleeping bags at the Mirador Base de las Torres. You can hike up before the sunrises, carrying your sleeping bags and a light snack, and enjoy the view as the towers catch the light and turn fantastic shades of pink and red. Helpful tips: Although the trail is not the easiest place keep up your personal hygiene, there are certain tricks that can help you survive and hopefully smell a bit fresher. The first tip is to bring baby wipes, in a zip lock if you don’t want to bring the entire package, for a easy way to bathe. Powder or no-rinse shampoo is also an option to avoid greasy hair, and breath fresheners such as gum, mints, or breath strips are also an excellent way to deal with morning and trail breathe. A change of clothes strictly for around the campsite and inside the tent is another tried-andtrue method to stay more comfortable, if not cleaner. Also, be sure to bring extra condoms, because the wilderness brings out the animal in all of us!
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Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
Puerto Natales is a city in Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park. It is the capital of Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region.
Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, the livelihood of Puerto Natales relies on tourism. Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Torres del Paine, there are all kinds of day tours that you can booked from the various agencies in the downtown area.
Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawéskar tribe, or Alacaluf, and the Aonikenk, or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the
questions & answers
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Bulnes 495 Puerto Natales, Chile
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Support your local revolution... Get your Black Sheep issue uniform now.
Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.
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Black Sheep T-shirts for sale!
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Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G.
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1.000 pesos within city limits.
Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?
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What about shopping hours midday?
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Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes).
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Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them?
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How much do the taxis cost?
It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.
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The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores.
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Where can I buy white gas?
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Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively.
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Where can I buy camping food in town?
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And all of the dogs running around?
Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place?
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Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591.
Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo. Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...
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Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day?
Bor
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A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine.
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What the heck is a “Zodiac”?
What about recycling programs?
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Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt.
That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up.
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What is Navimag?
Why is there so much trash on the beach?
Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories
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This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A.
Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful.
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Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea
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If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning?
What are the winters like around here?
Puerto Natales, Chile
r oge T. R
This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop.
Canal Señoret
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If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day?
A free information seminar is held every day at erratic rock hostel at 3 p.m. -Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales. Everything is covered, from refugio info to free campsites, meals to equipment. This hour-long talk is given in English and comes with a smile.
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Torres del Paine questions?
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Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang. Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.
Fábrica de muebles Fabricación de partes y piezas de madera Muebles de oficina, cocina, dormitorio y racks.
Servimuebles Baquedano 543, Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61-412065 • servimuebles@live.cl
Finally. Something hot in Patagonia. www dot patagoniablacksheep dot com AquaNativa Sea Kayaking Eberhard 161 Puerto Natales,Chile ph 414143
Kayak.
www.aquanativapatagonia.com
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1 & 2-day tours through the Patagonian fjords & canals. Visit the Sendero Alacalufe web site for details.
Free Torres del Paine Information & Trekking Seminar By Heather Poyhonen
H www.senderoalacalufe.com sendero-alacalufe@hotmail.com Puerto Natales, Chile • Ph 56 61 414747
Bed & Breakfast
www.hostelgeminis.com
Downtown Puerto Natales
torres del paine tested in patagonia
Reservations: 56•61•414243 Phillipi 653 • Puerto Natales, Chile Great central location • Free internet Rooms with private or shared bath
New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310
• INTERNET (Broadband 6 mb.) • CALL CENTER • SOUVENIRS • RENT A CAR • ACCESSORIES • DIGITAL CAMARAS Eberhard Nº 299, Corner of Magallanes jlopez@jlcomputacion.cl • 56-61-415628 Puerto Natales • Patagonía • Chile
Aquaterra Lodge • Puerto Natales, Chile
Phone +56 61 412239 • Bulnes 299 • Puerto Natales, Chile
www.aquaterrapatagonia.com
ere at Black Sheep, we award our seal of approval to businesses who give something free to their customers. The 3 o’clock talk at Erratic Rock hostel is a perfect example of this. Bill Penhollow and Rustyn Mesdag say they started the seminar basically because they had to answer all the same questions over and over throughout the day anyway. “Why not offer up all the informational goodies in one well-orgainzed sitting?” The two Oregon natives saw the information defecit and decided to fill it. “Traveling to the southern tip of the world to go trekking already takes a certain amount of dedication,” says Rustyn.“Once people arrive this far south, why make traveling any more difficult than it already is? Why not give folks the information that the guidebooks didn’t?” Essentially the talks cover all the info that Bill and Rustyn wish they had when they first got to Patagonia. It’s a simple enough concept: backpackers helping backpackers. That’s how it should be. They give the seminars seven days a week, all season long. The daily run down covers it all, starting from how to get to the Park, all the logistics you’ll need to know to hike the W trek (4-5 days), the full circuit (8-10 days) or other shorter treks for people who are on a tighter schedule. You’ll learn, for example, why approaching the treks counterclockwise is the better route, as it eases you into the treks and gives you the less strenuous days when your pack is heaviest and the more difficult days as your pack gets lighter.You’ll find out what’s possible in the Park (What are the trails like? Can you rent tents from the refugios? Can you use the refugio kitchens? What does your camping fee get you? Which campsites are free? Can you really drink water straight from the river? Do you have to worry about snakes, poisonous bugs or flying dinosaurs?). You’ll also hear the latest rucksack reports, like if the couple who just arrived back from the Park yesterday saw a puma or trudged through knee-deep snow in Valle del Frances. If you’re not sure how to pack your backpack, no problem. Each session provides tips on traveling light as well as how to stuff and--most importantly--waterproof your pack. A lot of people who come down here aren’t necessarily experienced backpackers, but that doesn’t mean they can’t tackle the W.The gear part of the seminar goes over all the equipment you might need, down to how much gas to carry, depending
photo by Owen Mesdag
on the size of your group. They discuss how to plan your meals, go about your food shop and pack your grub. The idea is to go as light as possible and return to town without having lugged a bunch of extra food or unused fuel with you to the mountains. Part of the magic of the info seminars is how welcoming and hospitible they are (not to mention funny and entertaining). Every one is welcome! You don’t have to be staying at Erratic Rock or one of their hostels to attend the talk. The talks are in English, however talks in Spanish can also be arranged. When you arrive, one of the ER staff will invite you to a cup of freshly brewed coffee or tea.You’ll be asked to check out the Q&A in Black Sheep, just to familiarize yourself with the basics. If you’re traveling alone, the talks are also a great way to find yourself a trekking partner, someone who you can share your trek with as well as gear. Trekking with a partner lightens your load, as you’ll divvy up the tent, food and equipment weight. If you’re renting gear, it’s also lighter on the pocketbook, since you’ll split the cost of, say, renting a tent. Attending the 3 o’clock talk is the equivalent of taking a backcountry course, given by real mountain guides who happen to have landed in Patagonia. Aside from logistics and how-to’s, the seminar’s main focus is how to prepare yourself and avoid trail stresses, especially those related to the foul weather typical of this region.The idea is to give you everything you need so you can get dirtier boots, in Patagonia and wherever your journeys lead you.
f o o t f e tis h Before undertaking a multi-day trek consider this: new socks, old shoes. It’s not a good time to see if those new shoes work. SOCKS: It’s amazing how important sock selection is when engaged in an long day hike or multi-day trek. The coarse threads of hiking socks eventually begin to dig into your skin causing discomfort and blisters. Avoid this by wearing a thin nylon liner sock as a first layer. Any pair of light socks will do in a pinch. Bring an extra pair for replacement half way. There’s something refreshing about putting on a pair of socks half-way through a killer hike. Waterproof socks can do more damage than good. These unbreathable socks will hold all the sweat and moisture against your skin, giving you blisters and hot spots. SHOES: The success and enjoyment of a serious trek is directly related to your shoe selection. Choose light, flexible shoes over stiff, heavy hiking boots. Every pound of shoe is the equivalent to carrying 7-9 pounds on your back. Minimize shoe weight by selecting a cross-trainer with ankle support, a trail-running shoe, or one of the lighter hiking shoes that are readily available. When you go shopping for “hiking” shoes, you’ll likely be encouraged to buy something with “great ankle support” and a steel shank so you won’t “feel the rocks.” This makes sense if you’re planning to carry a 60-pound pack and trekking through scree (small rocks) or other rugged terrain. However, if you’re staying on established trails, lighter, more flexible shoes are fine.
Puerto Natales
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Riding it hard. In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far away” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera. If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the Park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “El Camino a Dumestre”). You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endlessly they careen by the sea. The
Mama will treat you well
farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. On a clear day, you’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Peninsula. If you come prepared, you can even camp along the beach. The law in Chile states that no one can own the edges of the ocean, fjords, or lakes. A two-day bike ride, with all your kit, is a great way to see a quieter (and cheaper) Patagonia. Puerto Natales claims some of the best views in Chile and should not be missed. Biking south, out of town, will serve you an unforgettable helping of eye-candy. If this sounds nice, but you’re still unsure, ask yourself this simple question: When do you think you’ll be back?
Prefer on Top? Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? Love Puerto Natales and planning on staying here? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two-hour hike up Cerro Dorotea, definitely on the top of the list of activities around here. Pack up your camera, rent a bike or hail a taxi. If taking a taxi, ask them to drop you off at Mirador Dorotea. If you’re not in a rush, you can just hitchhike the approximately 9 km to the Mirador. If you bike to Dorotea, take the road toward Punta Arenas and keep a lookout for the sign “Cerro Mirador Dorotea.” It’s a 15-minute taxi ride to the southern side of Dorotea. When you arrive, you’ll
have to pay the woman who lives in the house there about $3.000 pesos. This gives you permission to cross her property, and assures that a light meal with tea will be waiting for you when you return from hiking up the hill. Boot it on up the trail. It’s well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point, you catch a great view of Natales and Seno Última Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif and surrounding mountains is gorgeous. After exploring the ridgeline, head back down to enjoy your lunch and chat with the property owner.
Mama Rosa
INDIGO HOTEL - Ladrilleros 105 PUERTO NATALES - 413 609
T OORE r a B Eberhard 169 • Puerto Natales, Chile
Romance on a Shoestring Budget
eat. drink. drink. drink. drink. DANCE!
bar.toore@gmail.com
Two Silversmiths.
Lowe Alpine • North Face • Marmot • Primus • Sierra Designs
The Taller del Arbol Workshop in Natales
Eberhard 214 Pto. Natales • agenciacecilia@yahoo.es • 56.61.412589 • Credit cards accepted
One Art.
Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop,Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318 While traveling in Patagonia, it’s easy enough to find a typical souvenir for yourself or a loved one. But if you want to bring home a real piece of Patagonia, made by good people, who live, work, and play locally, go talk to Ricardo and Felipe. Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, Taller del Arbol store owners and artist silversmiths have been working together, on and off, since 1985. Their partnership is the result of a series of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to the next, until there you are, not entirely
Rent-Equipment Cecilia 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.
sure how you got there and not having planned for where you end up. They describe the craft of the jewelry maker: “Any material is valuable if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it.” And that is just what they do. When talking about the importance of passion in his work, Ricardo explains he has “to keep changing to keep the passion in [his] work. Somehow, you have to conserve part of the passion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to produce more work.” And you see this all over Taller del Arbol, the first silversmith shop in Puerto Natales. Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work. Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery. They work with anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, you name it.You can find them in the store with a red door, Eberhard 318, with the hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, Monday-Friday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.
The Milodon Laundry Service
Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Closed Sundays. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales, Chile
vegetarian. fresh-squeezed juices. espresso. shakes. cakes.
FREE
YOUR TASTE BUDS
el Living La Plaza. Pto Natales. Chile. tapas wine bar. handcrafted beer. sofas. book exchange.
February.09
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Miriam Parra Urban Artesania Design
Bulnes 622 • Bulnes 555 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 410931 • 415860 miriamparra_s@hotmail.com
4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY "AQUEDANO
0UERTO .ATALES
SOSIEGO HOSTEL
Traditional Chilean cuisine, wine & music in a cozy atmosphere Box Lunch Service
Miraflores 798 Phone 83511728 chamorromilosevic@yahoo.es
puerto natales, chile
Far out.
Arquitectura y diseño en acuerdo con la ley natural Cuando? Miércoles 11 de febrero 20-22 horas & Jueves 12 de febrero 17-19 horas Dirigido A: Arquitectos, Ingenieros Civiles, Ingenieros Eléctricos, Ingenieros Ambientales, Agrónomos, Biólogos, Diseñadores de Interiores, Decoradores, Médicos, Psicólogos, Terapeutas Ambientales. Y cualquier persona con ganas de saber del tema. Dirigido por: Vaidya Mauricio Leon, Medico ayurvedico y especialsita en Vastu. (www.ayurvastu.com)
el
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Taller de Vastu:
www.elsosiego.net
Ayurvedic Spa & Wellness Center Equilibrize body, mind & soul
Objetivo General Introducir a los asistentes a nivel informativo en la detección, analisis, y diseño de un Hábitat sano y armónico para el ser humano, desde una perspectiva geobiológica, territorial, arquitectónica, histórica y cultural. VASTU ¿Qué es? El más antiguo y supremo sistema de planificar países, pueblos, aldeas, y residencias de acuerdo con la Ley Natural, conectando la vida individual con la vida cósmica, la inteligencia individual con la inteligencia cósmica, y creando condiciones de vivienda ideales en la tierra. El Conocimiento Védico del Vastu Sastra Science es el conocimiento que establece todo de la manera más ordenada para que todo sea nutrido completamente por todo lo demás. Vastu Sastra Science es la ciencia suprema de establecimiento que pone las partes y la totalidad, el individuo y el universo, en una recíproca alianza perfecta. La falta de equilibrio entre el individuo y sus Contrapartidas Cósmicas siempre será la causa básica de la mala salud, los problemas y la mala fortuna. El campo de la Arquitectura Védica, que es el campo de las Matemáticas Védicas, solamente tiene un principio básico de la estructuración, de la plenitud surge la plenitud -- de la plenitud se estructura plenitud -- de la Ley Natural total surge la Ley Natural total. Los edificios que se construyen de acuerdo con el Vastu Sastra Scienc son muy calmantes,
inspiradores y evolutivos para todos porque cada individuo es esencialmente cósmico por naturaleza -- la estructura y las funciones de la fisiología individual son una replica exacta de la Fisiología Cósmica, la fisiología del universo, porque la Ley Natural es la base de ambos. El Efecto Vastu Sastra Science no solamente impide la penetración de cualquier influencia negativa en el Vastu de cualquier edificio, pueblo o ciudad, pero en el caso de un individuo que vive en un Vastu ideal, el mecanismo de autoreparación de su propia fisiología no se disturba ni se disminuye; mantiene funcionamiento ordenado. Contenido del Taller Día • • • • • •
1: El mito del vastu purusa Los sabios de la antigüedad El sistema solar Las fuerzas magneticas del universo Interaccion del prana(energia vital) Radiacion y energias cosmoteluricas
Día • • • • • • • •
2: Simbolos cosmicos Las tres gunas (fuerzas) Los 5 elementos Mahabutas Regentes del espacio Los Devas El mandala El vastu en la practica
Lugar: Casa de Yoga Patagom Galvarino 345, Puerto Natales, Chile Ph: (56-61) 413829 • http://yogapatagom.blogspot.com Valores: • Dia 1 $ 7.000 pesos • Dia 2 $ 7.000 pesos • Dia 1 y 2 $ 12.000 pesos • Socios PatagOM y participantes del curso Ayurveda & Masaje 7/8 de febrero, completo 4 horas $7.000 pesos
rucksacks & rain
Diseño: Rossanna Venegas - Fono: 410735 - Cel.: 77161058 - Pto. Natales
Tomas Rogers 131 - La Plaza - Puerto Natales www.lacasadepepe.de • phone: 56-61-410950
Eberhard 161 • Puerto Natales • Patagonia • Chile Phone: (061)414143 / (56-9)6971047 piaurbina@ayurvastu.com www.ayurvastu.com
• Coffee • B ox L unch
• Chilean Wines • Delicatessen • B rown bread • Dried Fruits • Gourmet Cheese
• Typical Smoked Products • Organic L ocal Products
Eberhard 302 -
413279 - emporiodelapampa@gmail.com - Pto. Natales
Waterproofing your pack Water is heavy. A quart of water weighs about two pounds. A rucksack full of rainwater would be impossible to lift. This is why folks buy backpack covers, but they’re expensive. They weigh up to half a pound and usually leave much of your pack exposed anyway. Plus down here in Patagonia, the wind is prone to grab the flimsy cover up like a kite and set it flying. What’s more, they won´t even protect your pack if it takes a dip in a creek or river. Tip: Try lining your pack with a heavy-duty trash bag. A regular garbage bag is fine too, but the thicker the better. The trash bag offers FULL protection for everything in your pack, without having to carry the extra weight of a pricy backpack cover. Just be careful not to rip a hole in the bag while packing. And remember to have the top storage pouch lined at all times as well. When you’re ready to turn in for the night, just pull the plastic bag out of your wet backpack and move it, and your dry gear, into your tent with you. The outside of your pack might spend the night a little wet, but it’ll dry easily when the sun pops out. Next time the clouds open up and dump rain, everyone will scramble to protect their packs. But not you. You’ll be calm as a Hindu cow, knowing all your clothes and gear are wrapped and waterproof safely in a plastic bag.
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Puerto Natales w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
The Independent Republic of Magallanes?
Coffee, chocolate & views.
Flag of the XII Region of Magallanes & Antártica Chilena. (The blue represents the night sky, yellow is for the steppe, or pampa, and white for the snow-covered peaks. The stars are the Southern Cross, or Cruz del Sur.)
definitely a regionalist spirit with which most locals identify. During the Pinochet era the region was kept in geographical and communicational isolation, and this helped to create a distinct identity. Another factor is the proximity of Argentina and the fact that Magallanes shares many more cultural similarities with the neighboring region of Santa Cruz than with the rest of Chile. Many Magallanicos feel that the region has been ignored by the decision makers in Santiago (although perhaps many other regions watching the daily news will share this sentiment). Flights to the region are the most expensive in continental Chile, and the goods and petrol/gas are the most costly. Magallanicos, many descended from immigrants from all over the world, have worked hard to create what is one of the most prosperous regions in Chile and they rightly feel proud of this achievement and somewhat slighted by the nortinos (northerners) who laugh at their sing-song way of speaking and funny expressions. Magallanicos are well-known for their solidarity with others, whether this is a gringo with a flat tire or a gaucho hitching to his estancia. This solidarity can be seen at its best in November when the region will engage in a massive fundraising frenzy to raise money for the local rehabilitation centers in Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. So a separate republic seems unlikely in the near future, but without a doubt the flag will continue to be flown and seen not only throughout Chile, but also--by judging from how popular it is with tourists--all over the world.
Interns needed in Patagonia It’s the start of the Patagonian high season, summer in the southern hemisphere. Thousands of people are backpacking through Patagonia right now, but most of them are strapped for time and only plan to spend a few days in each place. If you’re not on a whirlwind ultra-planned tour, this article is talking to you. Maybe you have already visited Torres del Paine National Park and Puerto Natales. You loved the small town vibe at the end of the world, the excitement of trekkers heading into the Park.Or you’re reading this article before you’ve made it to Natales or Paine. Either way, you’re in luck. Erratic Rock Hostel in Puerto Natales, Chile, is now accepting applications for volunteer interns for the 2008/09 season.Volunteers exchange room and board for living and working in Patagonia. Minimum time slots begin at two-week stays. This hip hostel is looking for backpackers and nice people. A good attitude and sense of humor are essential. Smiley good energy, a plus. Other requirements include willingness to jump in and
help with a variety of tasks, whether it be dishing out Torres del Paine or hostel info, rental center duties and just general helping people folks at home. You should like talking to people and helping fellow travelers plan their adventures. The Erractic Rock volunteer program started four years ago, and they’ve since housed travelers from all over the world. The internship has evolved and now works with universities, transforming work experience in a Patagonian hostel into college credit. For more information, visit the Erratic Rock web site (www.erraticrock.com), call them at +56-61 410355 or visit the owners, Bill and Rustyn, directly at the hostel, Baquedano 719. Volunteering and interning is not a new trend. There are organizations around Chile woking with internationals to help facilitate this type of travel. For more information about interning or working holidays in Chile, check out these web sites: www.chileinside.cl or www.contactchile.cl.
erratic rock 2 Bed & Breakfast b. zamora 732 puerto natales, chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 414317
A hostel alternative for couples. Private double rooms, private bathrooms, organic breakfasts and a smile.
Barros Arana 135 • Puerto Natales • 56-61 411945
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Y
ou may not be aware of it, but for many locals you are no longer in Chile. You are in the Independent Republic of Magallanes. Many travelers will have noticed the attractive Magallanes flag on jackets and bags, on local produce, painted on houses, hung outside public buildings and, of course, on the ubiquitous car sticker. Magallanes is still part of Chile but it is one of only two regions (Atacama being the other) that has its own flag. This flag was officially adopted in September 1996 as well as a coat of arms, a rosette, and a regional hymn. The ñirre tree, the calafate flower and the ñandu were also chosen as symbols to represent the region. Although the flag is flown most days in public places and buildings, it must be officially flown on September 21 (when the Strait of Magellan was claimed by Chile in 1843), September 29 (when Patagonia was incorporated into Chile in 1554) and on the Regional Day celebrated on October 21. So why is there a regional flag? Is there a serious separatist movement among the rebellious Magallanicos? The flag is hugely popular with the people of Magallanes, but perhaps it is more a representation of regional pride rather than a symbol of regionalist separatism. Interestingly the Facebook group “Republica Independiente de Magallanes,” with more than 5,000 members, appears to be a mainly nostalgic site for Magallanicos now living elsewhere, rather than a hotbed of activism. When asked, friends and acquaintances from the region unanimously declared themselves to be first and foremost Magallanicos. There is
Miguel Sanchez 11, Puerto Natales, Chile ph:412989
Amerindia
Cozy hostel with the best variety of Chilean wines.
February.09
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Treehuggers’ Guide to Couples R-Rated Trekking
By Heather Poyhonen
sex in a tent For those who travel and trek with their significant other, it’s not necessary to leave the romance at home. A romp in the tent can be a great part of your vacation. The fresh air and natural sounds of the outdoors can be a real turn on. So here are a few things to think about... Privacy. If planning to turn your tent into a love nest, make sure you to find the right place to set it up. Getting vocal in a crowded area might not go over well. No one wants to corrupt little children or disrupt a family dinner, so keeping it quiet is important. Thin tent walls do nothing to block noise. Use a sleeve of your down jacket or a corner of your sleeping bag to cover or put in your mouth if you need to. Logistics. Layers of clothing and two seperate, fitted sleeping bags can be hurdles in the construction of the love nest. If traveling as a couple, buying sleeping bags that zip together are great for creating a singular bed, but they are not so hot as lightweight ‘next level’ gear. Balance and freedom of movement are important. Restrictive clothing should be removed to make controlled tent moves easier. Keep it simple. This is also not the time to get acrobatic or try out your repertoire of Kama Sutra. Keep movements small and controlled. Avoid flailing arms and legs. This could draw attention to your activities and might bring down the tent. Clean up. Even if you and your partner don’t usually use condoms, they are a great way to avoid messy clean up, for everyone. Handy-wipes are always helpful in these situations, but you need to remember to pack them in advance.
T
rekking or paddling with your sweetheart will either lighten or heighten the challenging conditions in Patagonia. The trick is to be prepared for anything (gear-wise and mood-wise), and accept what comes your way, instead of struggle against it. How’s the weather gonna be? It’s most people’s first question, so let’s start there. Nights camping in the Patagonian wilds can be chilly or freezing. Expect days to be filled with erratic weather, tromping through the mud, fighting the wind, soaking up the rain--or rays-if you’re lucky. But don’t let inclement weather damp your entire trip. Keep a good attitude; smile and laugh. You’ll have more fun, and so will your partner. Rain is great for sensual wet kisses, so use it to your advantage. Make sure you have a set of dry/ nighttime clothes for camp, so no matter how wet your hiking/day clothes are, you can still warm up when you stop trekking for the day. Waterproof your pack from the inside with a hefty garbage bag. Knowing your sleeping bag and camp clothes are dry will give you the peace of mind you need to take more kissing breaks. Let the wind rekindle your wild side. The wind here can pick you up and knock you off the trail. It makes it hard to breathe and hard to see. If you’re paddling forward, it might just be pushing you backward. You might have to fight against the wind to progress, but don’t get grumpy toward it. Accept it, growl at it, get in touch with the erotic force of nature. Gales, erotic? Sure. Why not? The strength and adrenaline and maybe even giddiness, then eventual exhaustion, mimic lovemaking. Use your imagination. So, yeah, imagination is the key to unlock love’s door. And there’s no better place than the great outdoors. In nature, you’re away from the worries of home, the modern-day habits of computer, TV and phone. Couples hiking, kayaking and camping have all day to play, flirt and seduce each other. Breakfast and trekking or paddling, setting up camp and cooking dinner all become part of foreplay, or at least a road toward intimacy. Holding hands randomly on the trail (when it’s wide enough to do so) is a quick and simple way to show your partner affection. If holding hands just isn’t your thing or just isn’t possible, touch your partner elsewhere. Touch keeps the energy between
Free Information & Equipment Seminar 3 p.m. every day • Puerto Natales, Chile All welcome.
Come grab a cup of real coffee and join the erratic rock team at 3 p.m. every day for an hour-long, no-nonsense info session about trekking in Torres del Paine, equipment needs, packing for the trail, adventure options, meal preparation and anything else you need to know. All directly from the local guides. Completion of seminar earns you 10% off all rental gear and a smile. erratic rock patagonia baquedano 719 puerto natales, chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 410355
hostels • equipment • information • guides
you vibrating. During snack breaks, try seductively feeding your partner grapes, for instance. Or, on the first day out, when delicate fruits are still scrumptious, slice up a juicy peach, put one of the spears in your mouth and offer up the other half to your beloved. Don’t be afraid to get messy. You’ll have a chance to clean up later if your partner doesn’t do it first. Continue these mouth-to-mouth fruit frenzies with apples, bananas or clementines once you’ve savored all of your juicier fruit stash. It’s common to fall into a rhythmic march on the trail, which is fine. It’s nice to enjoy the quiet, but every once in a while, break the silence. You’re here to share with one another. If you see an exotic bird (what the heck are parakeets doing in Patagonia, anyway?) or beautiful orchid, share it with your partner. Communication in relationships is always important, but remember to use more than just your mouth. Gestures and touch do a fair bit of speaking too. But you can also say so much with your eyes, even more than what words can express. So whenever it’s appropriate, dive into eye contact. See if you can say, “Can you pass me the water?” in eye language. Backpacking is also a great time to dream together or remember how you first met. Couples in new relationships get to know one another better, and couples who have been together for a while can stoke the hot coals. On the other hand, remember to leave your problems at home.Trail stresses are a very real part of trekking together, but this is not the time to bicker. Explore your fantasies instead.What do you want to do to one another tonight? This is the perfect time to open up, take a deep breath and talk dirty. Go into detail. Let your imagination run wild. It’s not unheard of for couples to indulge in a midday romp against a Lenga tree or boulder, with fresh air and birdsong. (Just be sure to step off the trail so as not to deflower innocent passers-by.) If you plan on driving in your tent stake later that night, choose your campsite wisely. In places like Torres del Paine, it’s virtually impossible to camp far away from others at some sites. You might try to plan your entire trip around camping areas with less traffic, such as Carretas and Britanico. People have been known to camp out of bounds for this reason, but it is technically illegal. Once you’ve chosen where to pitch your tent, you likely still have a couple hours of work ahead of you. This is the moment of truth and often where trail/camp stresses come to a head. Maybe it’s the weather or missing tent stakes or finding out that you’ve run out of fuel before the end of your trip. Or maybe it’s just a matter of one person being more seasoned in the backcountry than the other. In any case, it’s important to stay nice. Blaming your partner for not bringing a piece of “necessary” equipment isn’t going to abracadabra it into existence. Be encouraging, respectful and loving toward one another. If one person is really tired one day and the other not so much, give your knackered sweetheart the gift of rest. Let that person lay out the beds, change clothes, do a bit of grooming to prepare for the evening and re-energize. It’s up to the more experienced backpacker to include their mate in the goings on at camp. By the end of the trip, your experience levels should start to level out. Cooking outdoors doesn’t mean eating dehydrated rice or pasta meals every day. Be creative! At the very least, use some fresh ingredients in your pastas. Carrots, bell peppers, onions and fresh herbs, especially parsley, last a little longer than tomatoes or avocado. But by all means, if your pack and your back can handle it, bring some extra fresh goodies with you on your trip. Incorporate quinoa or couscous to change up your main dishes. Consider planning your meals around aphrodisiacs to help boost your sexual power. These foods include licorice, asparagus, almond, garlic, fresh ginger, sweet basil, strawberries, pineapple, honey, dark chocolate, and of course, oysters.
Love nest at night. Starting with a simple appetizer while you’re sauteeing fresh veggies or boiling water will curb your hunger and reanimate you while you await your main dish.Try preparing a fresh aphrodisiac pesto before you head out into the woods.You can use it as pasta sauce or a tasty spread, and it lasts for days. Cream cheese and crackers is really simple and requires practically no preparation. But anything you slab on crackers or tortillas will sate that grumbling belly.That way you can savor dinner a bit more. Eat side by side and watch the sunset or listen to water lap at the lake’s edge. Wine complements any romantic dinner, but carrying a glass bottle is cumbersome and takes up a lot of space, even after it’s empty. Luckily you can get boxed wine around these parts. If wine doesn’t do it for you, a snort of whiskey in your after-dinner cocoa will surely relax achy muscles. Candlelight would be another romantic touch, but since fire is illegal in most national parks and the windy conditions in Patagonia make fire extremely hazardous, you’ll have to find another means of soft light.A little insence outside the tent can help set the mood. Plus, it works as a mild bug repellant. Before you zip up your mummy bag and call it a night, wake up your inner porn star.This might be difficult if you’re tired, sore or smelly after a long day of hiking or paddling. First thing is to feel sexy. This means that you’ve brushed your teeth and that you don’t stink. If you’re staying somewhere with a shower facility, this is easy. But there are still ways to wash up even if you are roughing it.You’re likely already using biodegradable soap, but that does NOT mean that you can wash yourself with soap directly in rivers, lakes or streams. All suds should be dumped several meters away from any water sources. You can even turn washing up into a sexy prequel. Heat some extra water after dinner, grab a washcloth and soap, and lather each other up. Keep a towel handy to dry off before you catch a chill. Lay the towel down across the top of your sleeping bags, where you expect your hips to be. (This will save work in the clean up phase, giving you more time to bask in each others’ afterglow.) If you’re shivering, use your Nalgene as a hot-water bottle by filling it with the leftover washwater. Naked body heat (not layers of clothes!) is the best way to warm you--and your partner--up, so get ready to hug.What happens the rest of the night is up to you. But here’s a tiny list of possible romantic camping extras: massage lotion or oil; wet wipes for pre- and post-coital freshness; condoms (even if you don’t normally use them with your partner, they help minimize tent mess); bullet mini-vibrator; sexy underwear; cards (for rainy day strip poker); cinnamon candy or gum (cinnamon is also an aphrodisiac), peppermint tea (for fresh breath, plus it adds zing when applied to sensitive areas); any surprise that your partner might appreciate. Enjoy the backcountry!
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Punta Arenas w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Punta Arenas, Chile POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
questions & answers
Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those
How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas?
What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?
Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.
Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.
How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia?
What does Punta Arenas mean?
250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.
Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C. Why are there ropes on the main square corners? Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street. Where is the bus station? Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent. Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas? Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time… Is there any public transportation? Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive.
interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.
What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center? To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church. Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map? Yes! For a price. Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255) offers boat trips to remote islands for almostoff-the-map trekking, fishing, and more.
National Forest (recommended).
What are my penguin options? 1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.
About 20km or 30 minutes.
2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day. What type of day tours are there? You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar
Do the street dogs bite?
they have more people to pick up, but they’re more economical.
Yes, gringos only.
Can I reach the end of the continent?
How far is the airport out of town? How many people live here?
From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent.
About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.
How do I get to the big shopping mall from downtown?
How much is an airport transfer?
Take a taxi, or cheaper yet - take a colectivo number 800, 300, 114, 112, 777 or 17. These colectivos will drop you off at the huge grocery store, Lider, which is part of the mall.
A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles, which take a bit longer because
Reputation is everything.
How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun! How much do taxis cost? All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos. Where can I change money? There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.
Errazuriz 567 Punta Arenas, Chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 221130
Can I drink the tap water? Yes, tap water is absolutely safe. How far is Torres del Paine from here? 4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.
erratic rock hostel punta arenas
February.09
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Humpback Romance It begins at the end of the world. By Trevor Clark
U Torres
f e del paine e Cabañas del Paine l Hotel
f e e l
s i e n t e
. 44 rooms with the best view of the Paine mountain chain . Restaurant and grill incorporated . Excurtions and transfers www.cabanasdelpaine.cl reservas@cabanasdelpaine.cl phone:243354
Rio de Los ciervos
f e e estancia l “The past of pioners
f e e l s i e n t e
s i e n t e
close to Punta Arenas”
. Only 5 km of the city . Historical Circuit . Typical Food . Horses riding . Acommodations
www.estanciariodelosciervos.com Fonos reservas: 061- 710219 fax: 243354 asz@soloexpediciones.com
f e experts e Magdalena and l
Penguin Marta Island
. (150.000 penguins y 1500 sea lions) . Seno Otway Penguin colony . Bulnes Fort Jose Nogueira 1255 Pta. Arenas www.soloexpediciones.com
fotografo: Luis Bertea
f e e l
ntil about eight years ago, it was not certain that humpbacks frequented the extreme southern seas. About an 8-10hour boat journey from Punta Arenas, deep in the Strait of Magellan, the humpbacks roam. There were some scattered records dating as far back as the 16th century. Then research scientist Juan Capella and his associates, Jorge Gibbons and Yerko Vilina studied the region using data from scientific surveys conducted from June to September, from 1997 to 2001. These studies established that a large population of humpback whales use the area as a summer feeding and possibly nursing ground. The prolific numbers of humpbacks recorded here, particularly around Isla Carlos III, combined with the biological diversity created by the meeting of two oceans, extreme weather conditions and varied topography led to the creation of Chile’s first marine protected area, the Marine Park Francisco Coloane, named in honor of the now-deceased novelist who drew on the Austral regions’ uniqueness for inspiration. Research conducted by Juan has identified more than 55 individual whales. He has achieved this by photographing the underside of each whales’ distinctive ventral fluke--a kind of whale fingerprint--and dorsal fin. Genetic sampling from these very same whales has indicated that many of them undertake a winter migration as far north as Columbia, where Juan participates in another project with Foundation Yubarta. Throughout their journey, the whales encounter many environmental hazards, mostly man-made, including what Juan claims is the greatest threat to the entire population--accidental entanglement in massive industrial fishing nets. Juan seemed to know these whales personally, identifying them at great distances, knowing behavior and characteristics specific to each, and giving them names such as ‘Webo’ and ‘Sombrero,’ all the while keeping his eye out for any newcomers to the area. On our next trip out, the we couldn’t focus on more than one or two for more than five minutes before another misty spray of whale’s breath erupted somewhere else in the near-distance. The most profound encounters, however, came at the least expected times, like while sitting and eating
lunch at camp only to spot through the window a blast of spray about 300 metres offshore. Within moments a large female tail lobbed (slapping the flat of her tail against the surface of the water) 20–30 times, repeatedly rolled over, spouted and finally raised a flipper out of the water as if to wave at us from her watery abode. Seconds later her calf attempted to imitate. Then, being awakened in the middle of the night by the sound of waves lapping at the shore, only to realize that they weren’t waves at all, but the rhythmic breathing of one or two whales resting in the bay very near the camp. The Whalesound camp is exactly how it should be, an eco-friendly collection of geodesic white dome tents complete with extremely comfortable beds and luxurious sleeping bags, all resting on wooden platforms and interconnected by a series of lumber gangplanks. This helps to protect the delicate ecosystem that surrounds the camp. All waste, including human, is collected and ferried back to the mainland, at regular intervals. In the communal tent, you can expect to be warmed up after a day on the boat by a gently burning fire and some delicious homecooked food and pisco sours. Our final morning arrived. I awoke early and decided to head down to the communal tent where I knew another great breakfast was being prepared. The boardwalk was wet from overnight rain but the sky was mostly clear, thus revealing a dusting of snow on the surrounding mountains.The sun had only started to rise, so the daily rainbows hadn’t yet started to make their appearance. Inside the tent, I was offered a steaming mug of coffee and we stood looking out the windows. Suddenly, out of the glassy calm water erupted a humpback, its entire body leaving the sea in three successive breeches, each one ending in a cataclysmic explosion of foamy white water. She was so close to shore we could make out the detail on the underside of her body and flippers. My friend let out a little cheer and I felt compelled to do the same. This really was the kind of exotic place where nature films are made. The only catch being it was all the better in real life. For more information, visit Whalesound at www.whalesound.com.
Humpback whales surfacing the waters, deep in the Strait of Magellan. For info on whalewatching trips, visit www.whalesound.com.
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The Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino Getting your taste of Patagonia’s sweet spot By J. Williams the legendary Cape Horn and Antarctic Sea. And while the route offers many worthy experiences, like awesome views that stretch as far as the Cape Horn straits, it is also impressive for what it lacks, like crowded trails, clearly defined paths, and over-crowded refugios. In fact, there are no refugios on the route. There is not even an entrance fee to pay. Trekkers are only required to check in with the carabineros in Puerto Williams. From there, the trailhead is just three kms from the tiny village of Puerto Williams with a good possibility that you won’t see anyone else in the course of the circuit. The Dientes Circuit is relatively new, developed in the early ’90s by Lonely Planet The typical cairn pattern of the Dientes Circuit trail. Hitting the trekking guide author Dientes is not for everyone. More skill and planning are needed to Clem Lindemayer. A few tackle the rough trails here. of the more prominent peaks along the circuit have been named after him. Cierro Clem, for illed as the southernmost trekking example, makes an impressive profile and serves as opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes an important landmark. Circuit on Isla Navarino is miles beyond any Because of the difficulty of the route and ordinary trekking experience. the distance of Isla Navarino from the beaten path, For 53 kilometers, the route winds the Dientes Circuit receives a fraction of Chile’s through an otherworldly landscape. Mountains annual trekking visitors. The route was marked with broken out from the floor of the ocean. Where the Chilean numbered trail marker system in early the Andes crumble into the Antarctic Plate. Where 2001, but it is still far from a well-marked path. The tenuous passes defy the staggering winds. Where Dientes trekker needs to be self-reliant and good at spartan vegetation clings precariously bracing itself route finding.The 38 trail points are spread over a 53 against the punishing climate and the manipulations km route, with four significant passes to cross and a of the introduced beaver. myriad maze of beaver ponds and dams to negotiate For the serious trekker, the five-day in the valleys between. Dientes Circuit is a chance to experience unique It is strongly advised to follow the route terrain at what is literally the last scrap of land before from Puerto Williams, as the markers are only
B
painted on one side. Since the markers are cairns (rock piles), individual trail markers are often difficult to distinguish from their surroundings without the red signage painted on them to mark the route. Weather is also a strong factor, particulary the strength of the winds that sweep up from the white continent and make the passes, especially the final pass, Paso Virginia, very dangerous. Blasts of wind strong enough to knock a heavily loaded trekker from their feet are not uncommon and come without warning. The Dientes Circuit is broken into five stages, each stage requiring about five hours to complete. With the long daylight hours of the southern hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be tempted to combine two stages into one day. While it is possible to do the circuit in four days, it would involve a day with two passes to surmount or a very long final day, descending from the nearly 900-meter Paso Virginia back to sea level, over a distance of 23 kms. The route markers end more than 300 meters above sea level, looking down on Bahia Virginia, and from there, the trekker must negotiate through the cow pastures and calafate bushes to the coastal road. Then hike the final 8 kms of pavement back to Puerto Williams. Passing trucks will often stop for trekkers on the final stretch. Otherwise, it’s about a two-hour walk back to Puerto Williams. Just getting to Isla Navarino is part of the adventure itself. The Patagonian airline company DAP flies a 20-odd seat twin otter from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams daily in the summer. The flight over Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan is incredibly scenic, and oddly enough, the least expensive option. There are, however, other options. Though more expensive than flying, it’s possible to travel by boat from Ushuaia across the Beagle Channel to Puerto Navarino and then travel the 50odd kms of coastal road east to Puerto Williams. For the truly intrepid traveler, the Punta Arenas-based Transbordadora Austral Broom operates a once a week passenger ferry to Puerto Williams, a 30-hour trip through the Straits of Magellan and along the Beagle Channel.Though spartan in accommodations and service, the passing scenery of hanging glaciers and mountains that float on water truly convey an end of the world sensation.
Boulder fields, Rockfall & Scree. Trekking and climbing through boulder fields, talus or scree means dealing with possible rockfall or other hazards. In such areas, make intentional, confident steps, and keep your balance and agility in tact. Always be aware of others trekking below you, in the fall line. Walk side by side, instead of in a single-file line, to reduce the chances of knocking a rock loose and hitting a trekker below. In confined areas or gullies, where spreading out isn’t possible, walk directly behind the person in front of you, so loose rocks don’t have the time or distance to build speed before they hit someone. Traveling up gulleys one-by-one to safety zones, out of the way of possible rockfall, is another option. Should you ever rap a rock loose, of any size, yell “ROCK!” so others can take cover or move out of the way. Discuss this system with your group in advance. Typically, people’s first reaction to “ROCK!” is to raise their heads up to see what’s going on. A good way to get your teeth knocked out. The proper response is to burrow your head downward, using your backpack to protect your back, neck and head. Climb with your eyes. Take moments to pause and plan your next step, before you take it. Use your hands for balance. Don’t be afraid to work your way up a boulder field scrambling with all four limbs. Walk on the tops of large, stable boulders, when you can. It’s easier on the knees and gives you the best vantage point to plan your next steps. Do not walk in loose sand under boulders. Doing so can shift the balance of the huge rocks and cause them to roll onto you.
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Patagonia. Doggy style.
These dogs need your help. Contact perros@chileaustral.com or call 56.61.262.607 (English, Spanish & dog spoken.)
The Punta Arenas humane society, La Protectora de Punta Arenas, needs your help! Although they provide critical services for stray animals, they are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs, La Protectora (or Corporacion de la Defensa de los Derechos de los Animales, CODDA) runs the southernmost animal shelter in the world. Founded in 1990 by Señora Elia Tagle to stop the cruel poisoning of stray dogs by the local and federal governments (who used strychnine), the nonprofit runs essential sterilization and educational programs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human Fully Equipped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet & Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Coffee Shop
Hain Hotel
José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@gmail.com Punta Arenas, Chile
population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000. La Protectora receives no public funding, but they manage to stretch their $20,000 USD per year budget pretty far. On this budget, they operate a shelter with 100-140 dogs and 2-5 cats. Most of their animals are not locked in cages and run around freely in several pens, eating twice daily, playing, and sometimes fighting. La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified euthanasia when necessary. With the help of the police, they also respond to cruelty and neglect cases. One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership.
Another project hosts a group of high school students from the local British School, who are obligated to volunteer in order to graduate. Wondering what you can do to help? You can help pressure the local and regional governments to support La Protectora. Write a letter to the editor of La Prensa Austral, the Punta Arenas-based regional paper, discussing how this issue affects tourism. The more letters they receive, the more local officials will respond. Draw attention to the issue by speaking with tourist-related businesses, such as travel agencies, tourist offices, and hostels. This helps raise the awareness of locals, who want happy tourists and a good reputation for their town. Financially, you can make a donation. Visit their web site (www. chileaustral.com/perros) with a PayPal account. Or better yet, stop by in person. La Protectora is located on the outskirts of Punta Arenas on the road to Club Andino at Avenida Circunvalación 1950. Call (5661) 262607 or write to perros@chileaustral.com.
Patagonia presents...
The Penguin Peep Show
Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 • Punta Arenas • 56-61 241029
remezon@hotmail.com
The new season of formal wear brings back the sexy classic look, black on plumy white and full-length coattails. The younger generation (not pictured) will sport soft grey pullovers until summer fashion season hits. Every year in mid-September, the first black and white heads timidly pop out of the cold water from the Strait of Magellan. Spring has begun and soon the first brave Magellanic Penguin steps onto one of Patagonia’s lone pebble beaches, just like their anscesters have done for thousands of years. Only males arrive at the beginning, but it doesn’t take long for the females to join the males and start finding their soul mates for the sole but definite purpose of reproduction. They then stay all summer until their chicks are big enough to join their parents at the end of March on their long journey north. There are five colonies that you can visit around Punta Arenas: Seno Otway, Isla Magdalena, Cabo Virgenes, Tucker Islet, and Ruppert Islet. All of contain the same species: Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus). So what are your options? Pretty much all tour operators and travel agencies in Punta Arenas offer daily departures to Seno Otway in the afternoon, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m., picking folks up at their accommodations. It’s an hour drive through the Patagonian pampas to reach private property, where about 11,000 penguins nest. The landlord officially opened his terrain for visitors on October 15, 2007, and will close it up at the end of March, when the penguins start to head north.This year, the entrance fee at Seno Otway is 4.500 pesos. There’s also a fee of 1.000 pesos to use the private road, the only way to access the colony. The ferry boat that connects Punta Arenas and Porvenir takes you to Isla Magdalena on Tuesdays,Thursdays, and Saturdays, but it doesn’t start operating until the end of November or beginning of December. There’s about 120,000 penguins on Isla
Magdalena. This excursion begins at “Tres Puentes” port, which you can reach from downtown Punta Arenas by hopping on one of the colectivos, either nº 15 or 20. The price for this tour will be 20.000 pesos, including entrance fee. Every day at 7:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. (weather permitting), you can catch a fast zodiac boat across the Strait of Magellan to Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta. The latter island is home to about 1,000 sea lions, who consider Isla Magdalena their special penguin restaurant. This is an adventurous yet safe alternative to the ferry. Price: 32.000 pesos, including the shuttle transfer from/to Punta Arenas and to/from the dock, and the entrance fee. The Eastern entrance of the Strait of Magellan is called Cabo Virgenes. Nearby, on Argentine soil, is a penguin colony that is said to be the second largest in South America (after Punta Tombo), with about 200,000 birds. It is best reached by joining a tour from Río Gallegos or by renting a car and driving the dirt road southeast of Río Gallegos yourself. It’s a pretty large distance, but the chances that you and the penguins will be the only ones there are pretty good! Price from Río Gallegos: 120 Argentinian pesos plus 15ARP entrance fee. A visit to Tucker Islet is only possible by joining one of the weekly expedition cruises from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia onboard the Mare Australis or Via Australis. Prices for the 5 day/4 night cruise start at USD 1,150 per person. To get there, you can join a Humpback Whale Watching tour that runs from December to April from/to Punta Arenas.The penguin colony has an estimated 20,000 members. This season’s prices for the 3 day/2 night all-inclusive tour is USD 900 per person.
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Cabo Froward.
...and you thought you wouldn’t be able to trek naked... days in any direction. The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely selfsupported trip can be called nothing less than extreme trekking.
To book your trek to the end of the world, visit erratic rock in Pto. Natales (www.erraticrock.com) or Aonikenk in Punta Arenas (www.aonikenk.com).
T
he Strait of Magellan, the channel, scene of countless shipwrecks, the oldest cemetery in Patagonia, historical bays... and never anyone else on the trail. The bottom of Africa and the bottom of Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off again. Not the case for the bottom point of South America. This journey is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses and willing to put themselves in a place where the word ‘selfreliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and two neck-high strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. There is no turning back, amigo. The Cabo trek is really only possible from January-March. Other times of the year you’re likely to run into river problems, and in the winter you have to worry about frozen conditions. If you have successfully trekked and camped the Torres del Paine ‘W’ circuit, then you might be ready for Cabo Froward. The trek is about the location itself, the bottom of the continent and the history. Plus, very few trekkers have ever been there.
The trek begins where the dirt road ends. Old deep forests of Nothofagus: huge coigues that seem never before seen or touched. The views are incredible, not only of the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is impressive, reaching more than 7,000 feet, jutting straight out of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park. There is also a good chance of being saturated at least once a day. The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple small ones. The trail is not always clearly marked. Finding a reliable map is next to impossible. Trails are only marked by the few that try their luck reaching the bottom of the continent. This trail will become a section of the Sendero de Chile project, which aims to create roads and paths and ferries that span the length of Chile, eliminating the need to cross into Argentina. The project is expected to be completed in 2010. The final goal is to reach the cross that overlooks the end of the American continent. The view from the lookout provides a true sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the world you are. This trek isn’t for everyone. There is no help or contact with the world for
La Marmita
HOSTEL Y TURISMO
Arauco Healthy. Vegetarian. Patagonian.
Restaurant/Bistro
Senoret
Cabo Shoestring Trips As a special summer promotion, erratic rock® in Puerto Natales is posting special shoestring Cabo Froward programs for backpackers in Patagonia. For what they call “a getting back to our roots program.” These series of Cabo Froward trips will be open to the public. Program director Bill Penhollow explains, “We designed this series of Cabo trips for the backpackers who don’t normally use guides. Travelers that want to do something unique and who want to carry their own gear, who want to achieve the tip of the continent on their own, under their own power. The problem is they just need someone to show them the way and they can’t afford typical high priced, guided luxury trips.” The program runs weekly during the months of January, February and March and is six days in total. Trips include guide, food, one night in Punta Arenas and transportation from Punta Arenas to the trailhead and back. This is a self-sufficient program and each team member must carry all personal gear and equipment. Cabo Froward programs leave every Sunday from Puerto Natales and return to Punta Arenas on Fridays. For more information about joining a Cabo Froward program contact erratic rock in Puerto Natales at 410355, www.erraticrock.com, or Aonikenk in Punta Arenas at 228332, www. aonikenk.com.
Ave. Colon
Jose Menedez
Fagnano
Waldo Seguel
Errazuriz
Balmaceda
Chiloe Ave. Bulnes Magallanes
Mayo
Pedro Montt
Lautaro Navarro
Roca
Plaza Sampalo 678 Punta Arenas, Chile O‘Higgins phone 56 61 222056 Sarmi
Yugos
Mejic
I. Carrer
Pun
Jorge Montt Quillota
In Patagonia, most likely all your camping will be at campsites, as camping offtrail is often illegal. Finding privacy may be difficult, so earplugs are a good option. If you do find yourself in a place with the opportunity to free-camp outside of the designated spots, camp on hard, durable surfaces, like rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Be sure you camp at least 50 meters away from any water sources, like lakes, rivers or streams. Remember that good campsites are found, not made. It’s not necessary to alter a site. If there is an existing fire ring at your campsite, DO NOT BUILD ANOTHER ONE. Campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Use a lightweight stove for cooking. For light, candle lanterns work great. Leave nature the way you found it, so that others may enjoy it as well. This means that what you pack in, you also pack out. It means you dispose of waste properly, digging 6-8inch deep catholes at least 200 feet away from water, camp and trails. Pack out toilet paper and feminine hygiene products. DO NOT WASH DISHES IN YOUR WATER SOURCE. Collect water and carry it away from its source to do your washing, and use biodegradable soap. When it’s time to break camp and move on, make sure you don’t forget anything. Once the backpacks are packed and the tents are stowed, everyone should make a sweep of the camp, looking for anything left behind, like binoculars hanging in the tree or small trash, like a small ripped corner of a candy bar. Check where the packs were and where the kitchen was. Don’t be afraid to pick up a piece of garbage that wasn’t yours. Leave the campsite the way you would want to find it if you were camping there next. Replace any rocks or large, natural pieces of wood you might have moved. Then, ask yourself some questions. How can I reduce my impact? Was it obvious were the tent was? Was vegetation crushed permanently, or will it pop up again easily. Is there any micro-trash left to be picked up? Did I create any new and unnecessary trails? Examining your camp before you leave it, is a great way to see how you can do it better next time.
Lake District & Patagonia
Jose Menendez 882 Punta Arenas, Chile Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279
JO
S E MENEN D E Z josemenendez@chileaustral.com
www.chileaustral.com/josemenendez
56-61 224819 56-9 8827569 www.adel.cl
Armando Sanhueza
Bories
ogueira
Angamos
Maipu
Ave. Espana
2009 end of season
Making and Breaking Camp
Private & shared rooms Private & shared bath Kitchen, internet, laundry Tours & transfers Wi-Fi
O’Higgins 765 Punta Arenas, Chile Tel/Fax (+56 61) 249130 www.estancia.cl hostallaestancia@yahoo.com
Bories No 655 / Punta Arenas
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Calafate, Argentina
What about Upsala? Can I visit that glacier? You can’t visit Upsala right now.The waterway is blocked by massive icebergs. How do I get to/from the Calafate airport? By the airport shuttle, which costs around $26 ARS per person. By taxi it’s about $70 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops.
What’s the weather like in these parts? It’s Patagonia.The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer.
Is it safe at night?
n ar tí nM Sa ra l. rG do
Ezequiel Bustillo
1 de Mayo
What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).
El Chaltén How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate? By bus. It takes about 3.5 hours. Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales? Not really.The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m.Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the evening bus to El Chaltén. How many people live in El Chaltén? 200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capitol and youngest city, founded in 1985. What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any banks, or places to change money. They are installing an ATM, but it still doesn’t have
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Automovil C. Argentino Cacique Bigua
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C.L. Piedra Buena Comodoro Py Calle 17 Calle 43
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Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price.
lle
Pio
Call
Are there any cheap eating options?
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7 de Deciembre
Where can I camp in El Calafate?
Can I drink the tap water?
Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed.This goes for Calafate and
25 de Mayo
9 de Julio
Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy.
The information center is in the bus station.
Rio
15 de Febrero
C. Tomás Espora
Are there ice hikes on the glacier?
There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities.The best one is El Ovejero.
Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?
Perioto Moreno
Who was Perito Moreno?
There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice.To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip. Bring your own lunch for the excursions.The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time!
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José Pantin
Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.
Where is the information center in Calafate?
In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people.
Coronel Rosales
Campaña del Desierto
Visit the glaciers. Perito Moreno is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit five other glaciers in the area (Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis & Heim).
In Calafate, they’re open from around 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m.
Julio A. Roca
What can I do in Calafate?
When are the stores open, anyway?
Los Gauchos
It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities.
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Av. Juan D. Pe rón
How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales?
Calafate, Argentina er ta
El Calafate
Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box.
and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.
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questions & answers
Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets
Av .L
POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)
Lago Argentino
cash, so best to bring your pesos with you. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free.Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It’s up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the Park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all leaveno-trace principles. Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén? In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén.They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/ Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles.
What if I don’t have lodging reservations? The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village. How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You need to stay at least one night. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto. Where can I camp in El Chaltén? In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs about ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. Outside of town, Camping Confluencia is free. Madsen, the former free camping near the entrance of the Fitz Roy Trail is closed indefinitely.There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers. Will my cell phone work in Chaltén? Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?
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Calafate
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Pachamama. One Love. Backpack - Check. Sleeping bag - Check. Boots - Check. Gore-tex jacket - Check. Sunglasses - Check. iPod - Check. Do you ever wonder where all this stuff comes from? Sure, it’s from the store, but how is it made? What happens before it makes its way to the store? What happens when you’re done using it? The internet video ‘The Story of Stuff With Annie Leonard’ (www.storyofstuff.com) explores the line of consumption, from extraction to disposal.You need to check out this eye-opening video, and tell your friends to do the same. Most of us are at least a little bit familiar with the gruesome statistics surrounding waste. In the Amazon, 2,000 trees are being cut down every minute. 80% of the world’s original forests are gone, kaput.The U.S. government admits to producing four billion pounds of toxic chemicals every year. Individuals produce 4.5 pounds of garbage a day. If everyone on Earth consumed as crazily as Americans, we would need 3-5 planets in order to survive. The statistics vary slightly according to source, but any way you look at them, even if you choose to do so with your eyes closed, they’re there. It’s easy to stay numb to the data, maybe because we already know it too well or we rely on our material items so much, we believe we can’t live without them. Plus, we only see the product part of production, the easy, consumable part. Ads glide across our televisions, telling us we need to buy more stuff, newer stuff. We eye what’s on the shelves in the stores, all so easy to buy, and so cheap, especially
when you think about all the labor that goes into making the product. Metal mined in South Africa. Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic thrown in from China. Assembled in Mexico. Shipped to the United States. Shelved and sold as cheaply and as quickly as possible. These days, the average American consumes twice as much more than they did 50 years ago. For a reason.We might think the consumer boom existed longer than we have, but it was, in fact, premeditated and researched. American post-WWII retail analyst Victor LeBeau said, “Our enormously productive economy… demands that we make consumption our way of life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, that we seek our spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in consumption… We need things consumed, burned up, replaced and discarded at an ever-accelerating rate.” But the mad cycle that such consumerism calls for doesn’t make people happy. Think of the huge number of prescriptions for anti-depressants (another item to consume, of course). Work till you drop. Watch TV to relax. Feel low because of the pretty people on commercials suggest you be more like them. Buy more to be like the pretty people in those ads. Work more to afford to buy more, and so on. We shouldn’t think of this as a purely North American problem, however. The maniacal cycle pervades many countries. It’s time to hop off this hamster wheel. If people created the model of consumerism, surely, we can recreate a more sustainable way to live with our Earth. To find out more, take 20 minutes to view ‘The Story of Stuff.’ And recycle the information: Pass it on!
La Kandonga Live Reggae
Check out La Kandonga, live reggae fusion in Calafate.
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l Calafate es un pueblo que no para de crecer, es impresionante ver la evolución de lo que hace 10 años eran tan solo algunas calles con una población de 2,000 habitantes a lo que es ahora. Con una población estable de 20,000 almas, en su mayoría dedicadas al turismo, también se puede encontrar un enorme contenido cultural. Esta llena de talentos por donde lo mires, teatro, malabaristas, bailarines y por supuesto un gran numero de músicos. Es como si todos se hubiesen puesto de acuerdo para juntarse en este pueblo. A nivel musical se puede escuchar de todo, desde el más tradicional folklore hasta instrumentos como el famoso didgeridoo Australiano. Pero sin duda lo que más se destaca dentro de este grupo de artistas es “La Kandonga” una excelente banda compuesta por siete músicos que llevan mas de 2 años juntos y que bajo el concepto de “reggae, bombo, bondi.” Muestran en cada show
un increíble sonido al que perfectamente se lo puede llamar original, mezclando reggae, rock, folklore y boleros. Escuchar algo así en un lugar como este es algo para destacar porque al ser un pueblo chico y extremadamente turístico cada artista se ve sujeto a la imponente critica de un publico que curtido por el clima Patagónico (frio + viento + viento). Esta sediento de algo nuevo, algo distinto, algo que motive, que desafié, algo para seguir, algo que los haga vibrar cada vez que ven un Show en vivo y les haga desprender esos pequeños hielos que se han formado en su caracter como consecuencia directa del lugar donde viven. La banda creció literalmente adentro de un Bondi (bus) que cumplía el rol de sala de ensayo. Siempre encontrando espacios entre inconstantes horarios laborales, cada integrante se entrego a fondo con todo su talento para satisfacer el deseo de conformar una banda nacida en esta hermosa Patagonia. Todo este fino arte esta expresado perfectamente en cada una de sus liricas. La Kandonga suena al ritmo de guitarras, bajo, trompeta, saxo, kena, un fino ensamble de percusión y la cereza del postre al frente de la formación, la excelente voz de una mujer que decora cada estrofa con unos tonos que te hacen vibrar. La Kandonga anunció el futuro lanzamiento de su primer disco “Homenaje Colectivo” llamado así en honor a su más fiel y hermetica sala de ensayo, el Bondi. Según información “oficial” el tan esperado disco se va a presentar con 10 de sus mejores temas. Una o dos veces al mes deleitan al publico local y extranjero con shows llenos de euforia y mucha fiesta. Asique si estas en el pueblo por el ritual de alegría de un show Kandonga, es tu oportunidad imperdible.
Si tu destino es El Calafate, Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...
Washing with dirt Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat: the grease in meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. And we especially need it for energy while trekking. A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use non-biodegradable products at all. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left-over grease on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue. Impossible to remove without soap and hot water... or is it? Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fistful of dirt and scrub! The small granules of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any of the tough-to-scrub food particles from your dishes. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap-free!
Did you know? El Calafate passed a law in 2006 making the use of plastic bags in supermarkets and retail stores illegal. The powers that be in Calafate and Chaltén understood the environmental impact that plastic bags have. Not only are they made from petroleum/oil (as are most plastics), but plastic bags, which may only be used on the trip home from the market, take an astounding 5001,000 years to biodegrade. On the level of tourism, Calafate and Chaltén are just being sensible: Bags+Wind=Visual Impact. If a retailer is caught using plastic bags, they can be fined or brought up on charges. So, when you’re shopping in either of these towns, remember to bring your own (cloth) bag or backpack to carry around your purchases.
Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306 www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar
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Bariloche, Argentina POPULATION: 150,000 WHAT’S GROOVY: Parque Municipal Llao Llao, eXtremo Sur (Morales 765) for kayaking, Carol Jones (M.Victoria 5600) for guided horse tours JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (ambulance)
San Carlos de Bariloche is Argentina’s gateway to Patagonia. The city’s name originated from a typo on a letter addressing a major English settler of the area as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos. Despite the error, the name stuck. The city center is an eclectic mix of shops, chocolate stores, lodging, lively bars and packed dance clubs. Beyond the center, you’ll catch views ranked by National Geographic as some of the ‘worlds’ best.’ Feast your eyes on the hand-carved log and stone architecture and the lake and mountains beyond it. The area’s main attraction, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, features a ton of easily accessible trails. Created in 1934, the Park boasts rugged
mountains, such as Mount Tronador, flourishing Valdivian rainforests and the windblown steppe. From day hikes to expeditions, visitors can enjoy every style of mountaineering and trekking. The single tracks lead to manned huts offering beds, hot meals and, sometimes, home-brewed beers. Check with Club Andino for maps, trail conditions and other inquiries. Bariloche is also home to South America’s largest ski area, Catedral. A small village in itself, Catedral offers over 30 chair lifts, 120 kilometers (74 miles) of groomed runs and 1,200 hectares (2,965 acres) of skiable terrain. Catedral’s base area is also a summer activity center with mountain biking, hiking and outdoor concerts.
questions & answers How did Bariloche get its name? Bariloche interestingly enough got its name from a typo. At the end of the 19th century an English pioneer of the Nahuel Huapi area, Enrique Paterson, wrote a letter to a settler of the southeast sector of Nahuel Huapi, Carlos Wiederhold Piwonka. Paterson mistakenly referred to Mr. Piwonka as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos (Don being a polite way to refer to an owner of property or a company, and San, referring to a saint.). The name not only was a compliment to Mr. Piwonka but it also stuck as the area’s name. On July 26, 1927 the name was officially decreed the title of Bariloche. When is fishing season? The Limay River, one of the largest rivers in the area, drains into Nahuel Huapi. It is the best body of water for catching big fish. This eastern flowing river is notorious for large rainbow trout in November and December and large brown trout in March and April.
from the Llao Llao Hotel.
How can I check airline status?
Can I drink the water?
Go to www.aa2000.com.ar to find out if your plane is on time.
Absolutely! It may be the best you ever tasted.
Where can I get the best steak? El Boliche de Alberto is Bariloche’s “it” place for succulent steak. There are three locations, the restaurant at Bustillo kilometer 8 having the best reputation. How far is the airport from the city center? Approximately 15 minutes. What is the usual ski season? The ski season typically runs from mid-June to mid-October. Where do the boat cruises leave from? From Puerto Pañuelo, 25 km west of town, across
Nahuelito, lives in the lake, but he is very friendly. What are they looking for at the traffic stops?
How many people live here?
We aren’t sure, but we have found that the less Spanish you speak, the better.
There are between 85,000 and 150,000 full-time residents, depending on who you ask.
What’s with all large groups in matching outfits?
How far is El Bolsón from here? El Bolsón is about an hour and a half south. It’s a gorgeous drive and well worth the trip if you have an extra day or two. How far is it to the Chilean border? The Chilean border is about two hours away by car, traveling through Villa La Angostura. How do I communicate with the world? Look for a locutorio, many have both internet and telephone booths available. Where can I change money? There is a casa de cambio on Avenida Mitre, one block from the Centro Civico. What’s up with the siesta? Argentines need to catch up on their sleep. With dinner starting around 10 p.m., it is safe to say the Argentines are night owls. Stores in el centro are more apt to stay open during the day. Grocery stores and locutorios tend not to go on siesta. Normal siesta hours are from 12:30 to 4:30 (give or take a half hour). Where can I find a good trail map and information on the hiking trails? Club Andino, on the corner of 20 de Febrero, number 30, kiddy-corner from the YPF gas station has the maps and information you are looking for. Can I hike year-round?
Kayaking Bariloche Yes, the lower elevation trails are generally free of snow all year. The higher elevation trails are available from November to May. Do I need a reservation for the refugios (mountain huts)?
It’s the latest thing, grab a few friends, start a team and pick your own colors. No, seriously. Bariloche is a hot spot for graduating classes to come and celebrate their new-found freedom. They come in huge groups and all wear the same rented outfits as kind of a rah-rah thing. The Brazilians do the same thing in the winter. What’s with all the Saint Bernards and their owners? These guys sell you the right to take a picture of their dog. Beware though. If you take a picture of the canine without paying for it, chaos may ensue.
No, but they are on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Where should I go to get the best sandwich?
Is it worth renting a car?
Morfy’s, side street next to the civic center.
Absolutely. Many of the treasures of the area are not accessible by bus. Also with the freedom of a car you can come and go as you like.
Where can I find the best ice cream?
What year did the first car show up in Bariloche? The first car made its way to Bariloche in 1910. It was a Mercedes Benz and was known as the “car of the government” due to its famous passengers. A Ford T was brought in a bit later. Is there a monster en Lago Nahuel Huapi? Yes, the Lochness monster’s distant relative,
There’s a rainbow of ice cream shops in the area, but Jujua is hands down the favorite. Find them in the city center, in the kilometers as well as in El Bolsón, Villa La Angostura and San Martín. When did the Bariloche’s chocolate fascination begin? The first chocolate store was created on the corner of Mitre and Beschtedt in 1928. The Swiss pioneer, Carlos Triberholn, is the grandfather of South America’s best chocolate.
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Puerto Varas w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Puerto Varas, Chile
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In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.
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That’s Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m).
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What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?
How can I get around without a car?
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In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.
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What kind of wildlife can I see in the park? There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all.
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What else is there to do? There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla.
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Will I have any problems with the water or food?
Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few.
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In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather.
Are there any good day hikes in the area?
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How should I dress for the climate?
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There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people.
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There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.
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Where can I stay without breaking the bank?
What’s the nightlife like?
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If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD.
Puerto Varas
Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout.
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How do I get to Puerto Varas?
iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.
How is the fishing in this area?
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questions & answers
Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the
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POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
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Hospedaje Carla Minte Puerto Varas, Chile • • • • • •
Private bathrooms German breakfast Cable TV Central heating WiFi Man spricht deutsch
Maipo 1010, Puerto Varas, Chile Phone: 65-232880 www.interpatagonia.com/carlaminte
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Pucón, Chile back riding or mountain biking, you’ll get your fill of thrills. Visit the Mapuche Museum on Caupolicán and learn about the culture of the indigenuos people. Take a cruise on Villarrica Lake aboard a steam-powered vessel, or just relax on one of the many black sand beaches. Shop for locally made handicrafts, and dine in one of more than 50 local restaurants, before ending the day with a long soak in one of the geothermal pools. Pucón also has a great nightlife and is relatively crime-free. The well-lit streets beckon night owls to hit the town after dark to dance the night away, or try their luck at the craps tables in the casino.
Do I need a permit to camp in the Park? No, there’s no camping fee, but it’s restricted around the volcano. Remember, it is an active volcano!
In case of a backcountry emergency, contact the Carbiñeros de Chile. They will organize the 50 or more guides, who live in Pucón and are always ready to lend a hand to their fellow outdoor enthusiasts. Where is the best white water rafting?
When was the last time it erupted? In 1984, but that was nothing major. The time before that was 1974, and 24 people were killed. Is there an entrance fee to the Park? Yes, about $8 bucks.
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Aside from visiting the Volcano and rafting, you can enjoy the amazing scenery on horseback, paragliding, or parachuting. Fly fishing is also very popular here, and you can book boat fishing tours. Keep in mind that all fishing is catch and release.
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What else can I do around here?
All year round, but winter is the best time if you want smaller crowds.
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When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano?
You bet, it’s smoking 24-7, not unlike some people we know, but that is a good thing. It means the volcano is venting. If it stops smoking, then it’s time to start worrying.
Av Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins
When’s the best time to go rafting?
Super chill. It’s a great scene for winter sports with fewer crowds, and it’s such an incredible experience to ski or board on an active volcano.
Is the volcano active?
Museo Mapuce
General Basilio Unutia
There are three runs, the most exciting being the upper Río Trancura, with class III and IV rapids, depending on the time of the season. The lower Trancura is tamer but still class II-III in most places. You can also do a longer trip of a couple days on Río San Pedro through various companies in town. It all depends on the weather and amount of rainfall, but generally speaking, the season is from late September to early April. For the upper Trancura, you’ll have to wait till around December. And remember during the height of the season (about December-February), the rapids can get pretty crowded.
What is the winter like?
Geronimo de Alderete Capitania de Puerto
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Most outfitters have everything you need for the activity you want to participate in, and the gear is usually included. But there is also gear rental if you plan on flying solo.
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Can I rent gear in town?
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Absolutely, there are numerous bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.
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Just a few blocks from the center, you can soak up all the UV you want, just don’t forget the SPF!
Is there a night life in Pucón?
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Yep! Enjoy the experience. Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area?
There’s a nine-hole course on the peninsula.You can rent a set of golf clubs at the course or in town at Sol y Nieve.
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Can I drink the water in the Park?
Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?
Is there a golf course nearby?
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Pucón has a small hospital with an X-ray machine, and there are a few dentists to choose from. Anything serious is treated in Temuco, about an hour and a half away by car.
If you use a guide, transportation is included, but you can get into Villarica Park by taxi also, should be about $10 and you can hitch quite easily also. Pullman bus lines goes to Huerquehue Park twice daily for about $6 there and back.
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What if I need a doctor or dentist?
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You can’t pitch a cat without hitting a hostel in Pucón.
Is transportation to the trail heads available?
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Are there hostels close to the bus station?
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questions & answers
Pucón, a quaint town built in the style of a German village, has something for everyone, from the thrill seeking adrenaline junkie to the couple looking for a romantic getaway. Along with things to see and do, you’ll find accommodation for all budgets, but hop online and book early, because most places fill up fast during the summer months. Pucón explodes with life during the summer months (OctoberMarch), when sunny days, green forests and blue skies, along with the alwaysactive Villarrica Volcano lure the masses. Whether you are looking for a guided ascent of the volcano, trekking in the Villarrica National Park, rafting or kayaking the Class III and IV rapids of the Trancura River, or an afternoon horse-
Iglesia Jesus de Nazaret
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POPULATION: 21,000 FOUNDED: 1883 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hotsprings, lots to choose from on the main drag. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
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Zacarias G Ramon Guinez
Where is the closest airport? In January and February, Lan and Sky Airlines fly direct to Pucón. Booking online has been problematic in the past, especially with a foreign credit card.You’re better off booking your flight locally at one of the carriers’ offices. Alternatively, you can fly to and from the international airport in Temuco, about two hours away from Pucón, by bus.
Monasterio Santa Clara
What options are there for public transport? Buses between the nearby town of Villarrica and Pucón run every 15 minutes through Buses Jac. Buses from Puerto Montt run four times a day, and from Temuco, every half hour. Taxis and
colectivos are available all over town. But, if you want to get off the beaten path or have a time constraint and want to see some more in less time, rent a car. There are a couple of car rental options on Colo Colo Street.You can also rent a bike for about 10 bucks a day. Who should I be tipping here?
Good People, Handmade Organic Food and Real Coffee
El Barroso
Fresia 135a Pucon, Chile
Your waiter would appreciate a 10% tip, if you’re happy with the service. The kid who bags your groceries at the market works solely on tips. And don’t forget to tip your guide if you have enjoyed a particularly good excursion. Where can I find a Black Sheep T-shirt?
organic food, wine and real italian coffee Corner of O’Higgins & Fresia, Pucón • trawen@gmail.com
Wood Fire Grilled Steaks Chilean Wines
You have to go to Puerto Natales for Sheep T’s. They’re at La Maddera (corner of Pratt & Bulnes).
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Penguin Experts
www.soloexpediciones.com
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Cabañas del Paine Hotel
5% discount on lodging with coupon Ph 56 61 243354 • reservas@cabanasdelpaine.cl
erratic rock1
Free upgrade dorm (x2) to private dbl upon availibility- first night -
Eberhard 302 • 56 61 413279 • emporiodelapampa@gmail.com
Amerindia
Hostel
5% discount on lodging paid in cash B. Arana 135 • 56 61 411945 • www.hostelamerindia.com
PTO. NATALES
10% cash discount on artesania & jewelry
PTO. NATALES
Reservations: 56 61 710219 • asz@soloexpediciones.com
10% off Lago del Desierto 480 • El Chaltén, Argentina Ph. (00-54) 0292 - 493276 • www.inlandsis.com.ar
Mandala Andino Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile • Ph (56 61) 414143
AQUANATIVA
PTO. NATALES
5% discount on with coupon
In-land-sis posada patagónica
EL CHALTÉN
www.estanciariodelciervos.com
PTO. NATALES
Río de Los Ciervos Estancia
PTO. NATALES
PUNTA ARENAS
PUNTA ARENAS
PUNTA ARENAS
Patagonia Coupons
10% off kayaking programs Ph 56 61 412239 • Bulnes 299, Pto. Natales www.hostelgeminis.com
Hostal Geminis
5% off bus tickets to Torres del Paine Phillipi 653 • Puerto Natales • Ph. 56.61.412081
Massages in Patagonia: Give the gift of touch BARILOCHE
Yoga PatagOM
Bienestar Argentina Centro de salud (054)(02944)-432254 • San Martin 130 • Bariloche
Galvarino 345 • Puerto Natales, Chile Fono: 61-413829 • www.susalatino.com
Rupu Pehuen Completo bienestar psicofísico
Hotel Indigo Spa • Sauna, jacuzzi, masajes
Tel.: (02944) 520847 • naturalyanss@hotmail.com Av Pioneros Km 4,500 (8400) • Bariloche
(56-61) 413 609 • Ladrilleros 105, Puerto Natales
Massage Therapist Jaime Schectman, CMT (02944) 448-750 • adiostahoe@gmail.com CALAFATE
Patagonia es un lugar especial para los viajeros que buscan armonía, paz, tranquilidad, rélax y bienestar. Terapias y masajes de todo tipo aquí las encontrarán, desde los “Spa de día,” para pasar unas horas, hasta los más sofisticados, situados en hoteles más lujosos. En este artículo Black Sheep les recomienda los mejores desde Pucón a Ushuaia. ¡Quedarán como nuevos! PUCÓN Küelu Spa, Parque Termal Menetúe Camino Internacional Km. 30 • Pucón, Chile info@kueluspa.cl • www.kueluspa.cl Fono: (56-45) 441877 Bhoga, Centro de terapia y movimiento. Lincoyán 291 • Pucón, Chile
Cerro Calafate Hotel y Spa Calle 998 • Villa Parque Los Glaciares • El Calafate 54 (2902) 49 2392 • www.hotelcerrocalafate.com cerrocalafate@cotecal.com.ar Tierra Nueva Centro Holístico de relajación Cel:082599043 • contacto@tierranuevapucon.cl Huife Km 18 • Pucón, Chile
by Pilar Irribarra
Posada Los Álamos Humus Spa Hidromasajes Gobernador Moyano 1355 (02902) 491145 • info@posadalosalamos.com
www.indigopatagonia.com info@indigopatagonia.com Hotel Remota Spa • Sauna, jacuzzi, masajes Ruta 9 Norte, km. 1.5 • Huerto 279 • Natales Fono (56-61) 414040 USUAHIA Hatha Yoga (02901) 15601468 • Islas del Atlantico Sur 1942 Los Cauquenes Resort & Spa reservas@loscauquenesushuaia.com.ar Reinamora 3462, Barrio Bahía Cauquén, (9410)
Alto Calafate Piscina, sauna, sala de masajes
Finisterris. Lodge Relax
PUERTO VARAS
Calles Nombre 123 Quinta 301 A (02902) 494110 • reservas@hotelaltocalafate.com.ar
www.finisterris.com • (02901) 1561-6125 Monte Susana, Ladera Este • Ushuaia, Argentina
Spa Aguanativa
PUERTO NATALES
Av. Los Castaños Nº 5 • Puerto Varas, Chile Tel-Fax: 065 310707 • spa@aguanativa.cl
Aquaterra Lodge Masajes de relajación
Centro de Meditación Sammasati Sector Candelaria Alto • Pucón, Chile
La Casa De Yoga Imperial 092 y 431 Puerto Varas, Chile Tel-Fax: (65) 234 570 La Pica De La Abeja • Miel, cosmética natural, Apiterapia • Fono: (09) 8731582 Ruta 225, Km. 28.5 • Ensenada
Hotel Malalhue Pucón, Chile
(56-61) 412239 • info@quaterrapatagonia.com www.aquaterrapatagonia.com • Bulnes 299, Natales Mandala Relax Masajes, reiki, hot tubs Eberhard 161 • Puerto Natales, Chile (56-61) 414143 • mandalaandino@yahoo.com Camino Internacional 1615 Hotel • Restaurant • Bar
Ph: 45-443130 www.malalhue.cl
Mandala Andino Eberhard 161 • Puerto Natales, Chile Ph: 56-61 415749
Fresia 315, Pucón, Chile Open grill Beef & fresh seafood Chilean & Argentine wines
The best cuts of meat from the south of Chile www.lagrilla.cl • contacto@lagrilla.cl
relax
Clean & Natural Outdoor Tubs Massages & Natural Bar Relaxation Therapies
Black Sheep
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Life’s Hard. Game On. erratic rock rental center hostels • rental equipment • guides • bookings • information
www.erraticrock.com
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erratic rock • basecamp baquedano 719, puerto natales, chile