Black Sheep Oct 08 by Rustyn Mesdag

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October 2008

Black

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Newspaper

Volume 4 • Issue 2 • October 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Barak Danin

Sheep WAT E R

real life. in pursuit of

Planet Patagonia pg 14,15

The Green Pages

October.08

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About Black Sheep Suscripción Chile valor por 8 meses: $10.000 CLP International cost for 8 months: $50.00 USD Envía tus datos al email: blacksheepchile@gmail.com Inmediatamente nos comunicaremos contigo.

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e are a grass roots travel newspaper, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language paper. We publish eight issues per year, coinciding with Patagonia’s high season, from September to April. Our web site community, with up-to-the-minute info, gives travelers a space to share their experiences. We are expats and locals. We are travelers, and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help them plan their adventures to the bottom of the world. We are backpackers, and we believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We believe in unguided adventure. We sleep in tents, and we camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We hitchhike. We recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being a part of the solution, not the problem. We believe that reggae music can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open & free for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe YOU can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that what you pack in, you pack out. We believe travel is about experience, culture, living like the locals, respecting Pachamama, and going home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe that backpackers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. Black Sheep is a bridge between advertiser and traveler. We search out the hip and reputable tour operators, lodging, restaurants, handicrafts, outdoor stores and mom & pop shops. Businesses that we think are especially groovy merit our stamp of approval, which means they... • Love the environment and practice eco-friendliness in their business • Are locally owned • Give back to the community • Offer something free to customers and quality service The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers.We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.We are:

Bariloche, Argentina:

Publisher/Designer:

Jamie Schectman adiostahoe@gmail.com Shanie Matthews shanie@shaniematthews.com

Rustyn Mesdag editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Director:

Pilar Irribarra sales@patagoniablacksheep.com

Calafate, Argentina:

Editor/Layout:

Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Maria Fourcade negrafourcade@hotmail.com Federico Fourcade pod_smolik@hotmail.com

Graphic Design:

Distribution: Patricio Alderete

Leslie Venti leslie.venti@gmail.com

Special Thanks: Bill Penhollow Isabel Chamorro Patricio Achurra erratic rock

Punta Arenas, Chile:

Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com

Puerto Natales, Chile:

Printed by:

Carolina “C.J.” Wilson cjwilson07@gmail.com

La Prensa Austral

Cover Image:

Pucón & Pto. Varas, Chile:

Barak Danin Bariloche, Argentina

Anthony Riggs anthony@patagoniablacksheep.com

© 2008 All rights reserved. The contents of this paper may not be reproduced in whole or in part without consent of the copyright owner. Black Sheep design is a registered trademark. Published by Southern Cross, Ltda. Printed in Chile.

- Rustyn Mesdag, publisher

Welcome to October

in Patagonia. And good luck,‘cuz it’s not easy. Most of you are on extended trips, a month or more for sure, trying to budget your time and money to take in as much of Patagonia as you can. When time is limited, the last thing you want to do is zig when you were supposed to zag and lose a day in transit. We’ve all done it. Hopfully, this newpaper will help. All of us who build the Sheep every month also work in other areas of tourism, aside from the paper. After a few seasons down here, we realized how much time travelers spend asking the same questions about our Patagonia. It only made sense to try to get all the pearls in one place, like in a newspaper.Voila! But holy crap! It’s hard to cover a vast area like Patagonia (Chile AND Argentina) with such huge distances between the major hot spots. It’s a lot of ground to cover. Travelers like you have helped us out every step of the way. Without contributions from backpackers, hitchhikers and other travelers the paper wouldn’t exsist. All of the once-in-a-lifetime photos, all the coolest hidden places, treks or camping spots...they’re all found by you. A simple piece of advice, like ‘...camp along the east side of the ridge, instead of the west, because you’ll get beaten down by the wind...’ can change someone’s entire trip for the better. Only you know these truths, and everybody needs to know. The truth is we need your help in a lot of ways.

First: Did you like the paper? Did it help? Okay, then don’t throw it away. Pass it on. We don’t need more garbage in the world. And I promise you, that for every Black Sheep out there, there are 100 travelers who don’t have one and who might need one. Help us help you, and pass this paper along. Take it to the next town. The further away the newspapers travel, the more time travelers have to make plans in advance. Do us a big favor and grab a handful of them and take them to the next hostel you stay, or drop some at the cool café you found. If the paper helped you, it can also benefit another. Second way: Send us your discoveries! Let us know what’s going on out there on the front lines. What’s the word on the street? We want to know and share the info, never underestimate the power of word-of-mouth. We are just a handful of travelers, trying to make a cool little paper. Got a story? A recommendation? A cover shot? Write us anytime. Contact any of our people. We’ll make you famous. Third way: Support our advertisers. They in return, support us. These are locally run businesses that are trying to basically do the same thing we are: get the word out. Patagonia is a huge area. The advertisers are making an equally huge effort to reach you. It helps everyone when you make an effort to help them. Tell them where you saw their ad so they know there advertisment budget it being well spent! Oh... the other thing, we are trying to collect cool photos of Black Sheep Newspapers in awesome locations around the world. Send ‘em, and we’ll print ‘em! Thanks everyone, and good luck out there. Be safe and travel smart.

- Pilar Irribarra, directora

Bienvenidos

a una nueva edición de Black Sheep “sin fronteras”. Si, porque unimos con información la patagonia chilena-argetina . Nuestro desafío es conectar a lo que llamamos “Gringo Trail” por lo mismo en este número podrás encontrar información del circuito o recorrido que habitualmente siguen los viajeros que llegan hasta la Patagonia. Comenzando por Pucón, Puerto Varas, Puerto Montt, Puerto Natales, Torres del Paine, Punta Arenas, Bariloche, Calafate, Chaltén y desde este número USUAHIA, que sin duda atrae a turistas de todo el mundo por su entorno, mitos y leyendas del fin del mundo. Usuahia, Tierra del Fuego es una zona de amplias posibilidades para la práctica de trekking, cabalgatas, pesca deportiva, paseos en el Canal de Beagle y el cruce marítimo o aéreo a Puerto Williams, Chile. En invierno el centro invernal Monte Castor, ubicado a 15 minutos de la ciudad cuenta con equipos e infraestructura de ultima generación para exigentes esquiadores. UNIR LA PATAGONIA a través de nuestro “Travel News Paper” es un desafío grande pero estamos seguros que gracias a nuestro equipo y a la colaboración de nuestros lectores y empresas avisadoras, podemor generar una gran red de apoyo, un punto de encuentro y comunicación para los que amamos y trabajamos en la naturaleza, ya sea en turismo,

practicamos deporte al aire libre o realizamos actividades educativas y ambientales. La invitación es a escribirnos, enviarnos sus experiencias, fotos e inquietudes. Es importante para nuestro periódico estar siempre actualizado que tus sugerencias a la hora de viajar por patagonia las puedas compartir con otros aventureros como tú, tus descubrimientos personales son muy valiosos ya que no todo aparece en las guias y hay tesoros escondidos en cada lugar que son importantes de difundir. También, te pedimos que apoyes a las empresas avisadoras, son empresas locales que estan haciendo un gran esfuerzo por entregar un servicio de calidad y Black Sheep cree en cada una de ellas y las recomienda. Les deseo buen viaje a todos que disfruten este número que viene con excelentes reportajes desde Pucón a Usuahia. Recomiendo leer detenidamentes las Green Page y a poner en practica todas aquellas actitudes que demuetsran valoración y respeto por nuestra PACHAMAMA o Madre Tierra. P.D ¿Dónde encotrar tu Black sheep? En las ciudades antes mencionadas lo encontrarás en hoteles, restaurantes, cyber café, centros de información turística, oficinas de SERNATUR, aeropuertos, etc . Además, si quieres recibirlo mensualmente en tu casa ya sea en Chile o en el extranjero, te invitamos a suscribirte pagando sólo gastos de correo.

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Patagonia Bus Schedules Schedules may alter slightly for the winter season. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions. Note: During daylight savings time, there is a time difference between Chile and Argentina.

Chile / Argentina Buses Buses Ghisoni Ph. 613420 L. Navarro 975

Buses Ghisoni Terminal Río Gallegos

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Mon. & Wed. thru Sat. 11.00 Tue., Fri., Sun. 11.30

Punta Arenas - Ushuaia

Buses Pacheco Terminal Río Gallegos

Tues. & Thu. thru Sun. 12.00 Mon., Wed., Sat. 12.00

Ushuaia - Punta Arenas

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

(via Río Grande) Mon., Wed., Fri. 09.00

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

(via Río Grande) Mon., Thu., Sat. 10.00

Tecni Austral Ph. 613422 L. Navarro 975

Tue., Thu., Sat. 07.30

Tecni Austral Roca 157

Mon., Wed., Fri. 05.30

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Buses Fernandez Ph. 411111 E. Ramírez 399

07.15 09.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales Buses Fernandez Ph. 221812 A. Sanhueza 745

08.00 09.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00

Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500

07.30 10.00 13.30 19.00

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

08.30 14.00 18.00 19.30

Bus Sur Ph. 411859 Baquedano 668

M-Th.: 07.00 & 15.00 Fri.-Sun.: 07.15 & 19.00

Bus Sur Ph. 614224 José Menéndez 552

Tues-Thur.: 15.00 & 19.00 Fri.-Mon.: 09.15 & 19.00

Puerto Natales - El Calafate

El Calafate - Puerto Natales

Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456

Cootra Terminal de Ómnibus

Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236

Daily 07.30 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00

Zaajh Terminal de Ómnibus

El Calafate

5 hrs

TdP Laguna Amarga

2 hrs 30

Punta Arenas

3 hrs

TdP Pudeto

3 hrs 15

Ushuaia

15 hrs

Torres del Paine Admin.

3 hrs 45

Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas (allow time for border crossings) Puerto Natales

3 hrs

Río Gallegos

6 hrs

Río Grande

8 hrs

Ushuaia

13 hrs

Puerto Natales – Torres

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Paine

Torres

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Paine – Puerto Natales

Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

Note: From October 1-15, there will only be morning buses to Torres del Paine. From October 15 onward, all companies will have another bus to the Park at 2:00 p.m. Please check with bus companies directly for updated information.

M, F & Sun.: 08.00

El Chaltén - El Calafate

Chaltén Travel Ph. 491833 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 08.00

Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande

Daily 18.00

CalTur Ph. 491842 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 08.00

CalTur Avenida 520

Daily 15.00

Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus

M, W, F: 17.30

Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande

Martín

(allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park)

Daily 08.30

El Calafate - El Chaltén

San

Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales

Travel Times

Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas

Torres del Paine Buses

Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos

T, Th, Sat.: 07.30

El Calafate - Río Gallegos

Río Gallegos - El Calafate

Sportsman Ph. 492680 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 12.30

Sportsman Ph. 442595 Rancho Grande

Daily 20.00

Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 12.00, 14.30

Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande

Daily 12.00, 14.00

Interlagos Ph. 491273 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 04.00

Interlagos Ph. 442080 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 13.30

Grupo de guias que asistieron al curso SAN WFR (Wilderness First Responder) realizado el mes de septiembre en la sede UMAG de Puerto Natales y el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. La certificación es reconocida internacionalmente y avalada por la Sociedad Argentina de Medicina de Montaña. www.aespa.com.ar

October.08

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Ushuaia, Argentina

This is a very sore topic with Argentines, as they still consider the islands their own. They have claimed them since 1833, although the islands were settled by mariners, gauchos, and English and Scottish sheep farmers. No one paid much attention to the windswept territories until the war between England and Argentina in the 1980s, which Argentina lost. Whatever you do, refer to the islands as the Malvinas, or don’t bring ‘em up at all! If I bus into Ushuaia, where do I get dropped off? Ushuaia doesn’t have a central bus station. Out-oftown buses drop off at the parking lot next to YPF petrol station on Maipu, the road which parallels

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What else is there to do around town? Visit the first estancia on the island, Harberton, take a 4x4 ride to Lago Fagnano, ride the Train at the End of the World, rent a bike, mosey through the museums. Take the City Tour, fly over the Beagle Channel in a private plane, go horseback riding, ride the chair lift above town to Glaciar Martial, or take a boat ride through the islands of the Beagle Channel. Why are there two different prices for stamps? Because there are two postal companies, one run by the government, and the other a private company which uses DHL. They charge slightly more.You can put your post cards in any of the boxes around town, no matter which stamps you buy. Why are there little plaques outside hostels and hotels? The plaque means they are registered with the municipal tourist office. If any problems arise, they can be reported. They are also monitored for hygiene and safety standards. If you stay within this network, prices are standardized and a certain level of professionalism is ensured.

Canal Beagle B a h i a d e Us h u a i a Bahia Encerrada uar

Ushuaia, Argentina

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What’s the big deal about the Falkland Islands/Islas Malvinas?

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Is there any good hiking near by? A ton. Ask at the tourist office for information on free hikes, right outside of town. “Senderos Antiguos,” are three walks of varying difficulty, which you can start right from the center of town. The national park office on San Martín can go over maps with you and help with suggestions for hikes in the park. There are some great hikes in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, and trekking from a day to several days in the valleys off of Route 3. In the winter these valleys offer cross country skiing and dog sledding.

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In town, metered taxis are the way to go. In high season, there are mini buses running regularly to the national park (30 min. west of town) and also east up the valley along Route 3, giving you easy access to trailheads.Your hostel can arrange your transport to the park, or a service that can get you to trailheads on Route 3. Is there a place to get my passport stamped with the ‘End of the World’? Yep! The trick is finding out where to get the stamp.

There’s one Casa de Cambio, Thaler, on the main drag near the tourist office.You can also change cash at the banks, between 10:00-15:00 week days.

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How do I get around to the hikes and excursions I want to do?

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Three of ‘em, ! rated as possibly the best in Latin America. There’s one at the airport, one at the “Muelle Turistico,” or Tourist Wharf, and one on the main street, at San Martín 674. All offices open around at 8 or 9 a.m. and close between 6 and 10 p.m., depending on the time of year.Visit their web site: www.e-ushuaia.com.

Where can I change money in Ushuaia?

Is there a tourist office?

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1.) By bus from all over Argentina or from Punta Arenas, Chile. 2.) By plane from many Argentine cities. 3.) By boat from Isla Navarino. (Check with Ushuaia Boating at Paz & Godoy)

Ushuaia, Argentina

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How can I get there?

the coast. From here, you can hail a taxi to your hostel. If you don’t already have something booked, walk one block heading against traffic, and you’ll come to one of the tourist offices. They might even call your choice of hostel and see if there’s room for you.

Walk along the Beagle Channel in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, visit historic Estancia Harberton, or check out the skiing and dog sledding in winter. In the summer, water ski on enormous Lago Fagnano or the many rivers throughout the island, or choose one of the day hikes in the area. If you’re not looking for historic tours and whatnot, Ushuaia is still a cool place to sit and drink good beer in good pubs with good people.

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questions & answers

This hip city overlooks the Beagle Channel at the southern end of the island of Tierra del Fuego, Ushuaia wins the title “Southernmost City in the World.” Because of this fame, anybody who’s anybody tries to find their way to Ushuaia, though technically Puerto Williams in Chile is further south. But Puerto Williams doesn’t have near the tourist services that Ushuaia does. The name Ushuaia in the Yaman Indian language means “bay penetrating westward.” By South American standards, it’s a pretty expensive place to visit, especially if you’re on a budget. Most people make their way down here just to say they’ve been to the southernmost city in the world.

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POPULATION: 60,000 FOUNDED: 1884 WHAT’S GROOVY: Cerro Guanaco JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (emergency)

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A Hot Trot Through

Tierra del Fuego

Day Trippin’ at the End of the Earth

By C.J. Wilson

By Pilar Irribarra • Translated by Carolina Wilson A stop along the road...

Gaucho fuegino

ierra del Fuego is mysterious and fascinating island, full of legends and scenery that will capture your imagination. It is shared by Chile and Argentina.The eastern, or Argentine part, is visited by thousands of tourists who arrive to Ushuaia from every corner of the world. But what about the Chilean side? The western part of the island boasts pampas to forest, mountains and glaciers, and possibly the most pristine natural reserve in Patagonia. Porvenir, the Fuegian capital on the Chilean side, is a good place to begin your adventure. You can rent a pick-up truck or jeep in Punta Arenas, contract a transport company with a driver-guide, or start out on bicycle. However you decide to go, Porvenir is the last place where you can buy food or gas, take out money from the bank, or find any information you may need. There are hotels and restaurants in Porvenir. You can also visit the Ferdinand do Cordero Rusque Museum, with a photographic and archeological exhibit on the Ona and Yaghan tribes, the original inhabitants of the region. You’ll find information on the discovery of gold and mining; a collection of beautiful altar pieces, and a section of natural history, archeology, and ethnography. There is also a great panoramic view of Delfines from a boat in the Bahia de Chilote. Once you’re heading south on the international road, you might experience the Gold Circuit, in the Cordón de Baquedano, with a spectacular view of the Strait of Magellan.You’ll visit an area where artisanal miners mined gold. You can talk to them about the history and lifestyle, and try mining for gold nuggets using the same techniques of 100 years ago. Continuing your adventure toward Onaisin at kilometer 100, you’ll come across historical milestones, testimony to the past, when the enormous Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego left its mark on the region. In the sector called Bahia Inutil (Useless Bay), you’ll see the remains Puerto Nuevo, a lamb processing plant, which separated meat from fat (used for soap and cooking), on former-estancia Caleta Josefina. Today you can see the remains of the installations and several machines. Caleta Josefina was the first estancia founded by the Sociedad in 1883. Some buildings are still standing, and you can visit the Cementerio de Onaisin, which was declared a National Monument in 1976. Yet even today, if you travel across the pampas in summer, you’ll see groups of shearers, “comparsas,” who go from estancia to estancia shearing thousands of sheep.

Cameron is a good place to stop, have a bite to eat, or simply contemplate daily life in Tierra del Fuego. It consists of the town hall, police, school and guest house. Cameron arose from the shell of an old estancia founded in 1904 by the Socieded, and it was baptized with the name of one of the managers. Its buildings demonstrate typical architecture, rich in detail, brought to the area by the English. From Cameron, you’ll have to decide between two routes.The coastal route passes sawmills at Puerto Yarton, Río Condor (famous for its fishing) and Puerto Arturo, with good places for camping. Or you can head south on the road which passes Lago Blanco, a route which goes inland and passes various secciones and puestos of the old estancia. Along the way you will see the huge dredges (aurifera) brought from England in 1904, which functioned until 1910.You’ll also pass remnants of old estancias in Section Russfin and Section Río Grande, and current-day estancias, including Enamonte, Vicuña, Río Chico, Las Flores, and so on. From the pampas to the forests and mountains... Lenga forests and beaver habitat begin south of Pampa Guanaco. This area is a fisherman’s paradise, with Río Rasmussen and Río Grande, as well as beautiful Lago Blanco. If you want to continue to the end of the road, you’ll need to go back to the main route and head to Lago Fagnano. Along the way you’ll marvel at the mountainous scenery, and you can visit Lagos Deseado y Despreciado. At Lago Fagnano you’ll see the road project to connect Estancias Yendegaia with Puerto Williams, one of the least explored trails in Chile.The project is a challenging one, and expected to take a few more years, crossing Cordillera Darwin along the way. For now, it is a real gift to be able to experience the magical scenery of Fagnano. If you are up for more adventure, you can continue on horseback, or five more days of trekking, to arrive at Estancia Yendegaia.

Did you know? Isla Navarino by boat from Ushuaia It is possible to cross from Argentina to Chile and vice versa between Ushuaia and Isla Navarino.You can’t fly that way, but you can take a boat-van transfer to get to Puerto Williams, the military town on Isla Navarino. Due to complex international paperwork, Ushuaia Boating is the only company offering this service regularly. They schedule two trips daily (9 a.m. and 5 p.m.) and need a minimum of three travelers to make the crossing. Set up your reservation with them by email at reservas@ushuaiaboating.com. They’ll need full name, nationality, birth date and passport number for each traveler. Cost is USD $130 one way, $240 round trip.This includes the 45-minute boat ride to Puerto Navarino across the Beagle Channel, shepherding you through Chilean customs, and transportation to Puerto Williams, from which you can see the Dientes Mountains, an end-ofthe-earth trekking and hiking destination. The Ushuaia Boating office is located at 190 Godoy (tel: 02901-436153). In Puerto Williams, the contact person can be found at Hostal Coiron.

Choose from several day hikes in and around Ushuaia that follow the coast, climb above the treeline, get close to glaciers, or picnic beside small mountain lakes. Whatever direction you go, you’ll discover the raw beauty of Tierra del Fuego all around you. Here are a few suggestions to get you started, each with a café at the end to warm you up before you head back to town. For more hikes, as well as trekking information, visit the tourist information office and ask about their Senderos Antiguos and other hikes. 1. For a warm-up, head to Glaciar Martial, a local ski area situated above town and below the glacier of the same name. Take a taxi to the ski center, and hike up the ski trails until they open up at the basin below the glacier. Follow the trails as far uphill as you wish, or take a side trail to an overlook. Before you head back to town, don’t miss the Casa de Té, just off the parking lot. (For a longer day, hike up to the ski area from town. Pick up a map with directions at the tourist office). 2. To get to the half-day hike at Laguna Esmeralda, take a mini-bus or taxi to Refugio Altos del Valle, about 20 km along Route 3. Follow the main path, through forest and fields, eventually passing through a boggy area. Scramble up the river valley toward the crest which contains the bluegreen Laguna Esmeralda. Return the way you came. Arrange transportation to return to town, before you head out unless you go a time when there is a regular mini-bus shuttle.

3. In Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, tell your driver you want to do the Costera Trail, and he’ll drop you off at the closest point. Pick up a trail map when you enter the Park (you’ll need to register and pay the entrance fee). This trail, about 8 km, traverses lenga forest, never far from the coast of the Beagle Channel, with its upland geese, ibis and grebes.Watch and listen for the magellanic woodpecker too. When the trail ends at the road, continue on for another km or so to the coffee shop next to the campground and warm up next to the fireplace with a hot cuppa, while you wait for the mini-bus back to town. 4.The strenuous Cerro Guanaco hike, also in the Park, begins at the aforementioned café and campground, and follows the shore of Lago Roca (same trail as Hito XXIV), before turning northeast, steeply climbing through the forest to a lookout that overlooks the Beagle Channel. Continue upward, along a boggy trail until it opens up. As you look across the large bog, you’ll see where the trail continues. You’ll have ridgeside views of the Beagle Channel’s islets and the surrounding mountains. Return along the same path, ending back at the café where the mini-buses pick up. Note: If you plan to return to the park a second day, tell the staff at the entrance station, and you can get a stamp to re-enter the next day on the same ticket.

Backpacking Recipes a la Mode Bored with 5-minute rice dinners and dried pasta meals? Looking for an alternative lunch? Ready for a healthy, light-weight breakfast suggestion? Is there something that will help you survive cold Patagonian nights in a tent? Yes, yes, yes! Here are a few recipes to spice up your trip. Bill’s Trekkers Breaky For a ‘W’ breakfast for two you’ll need... • 1 box of instant oatmeal (Quaker, Avena Instantánea) • 1 can of Svelty powdered milk. (Don’t go for the cheaper brand.Your breakfast will taste so much better if you just go for Svelty.) • 1 bag of brown sugar, which you can find at the pharmacy. Toss oatmeal in a resealable Ziploc bag and add powdered milk and sugar to taste. In the morning all you have to do is put your cup into the Ziploc bag, add some boiling water, and you’re ready to go for another day. For some variation, take a bag of jam or some dried fruit to flavor up your oats. Wrap It Up For this alternative lunch or cold dinner for two, you’ll need... • 1 pack of integral tortillas, which you can find at Vergel on Blanco Encalada • 250 grams of cream cheese • Aji Pebre (some spicy goodness that you can find the small bottles, next to the ketchup) • 1 pack of Serrano ham • A handful of white raisins (pasas blancas) • A handful of fresh cilantro Mix the cream cheese with some Aji Pebre to taste and spread it on the tortillas. Divide the Serrano ham onto each tortilla, sprinkle on some chopped-up raisins, finish it all off with cilantro, and wrap these bad boys up. Provecho! Candola If you’re in your tent with all your layers on and still freezing your toes off, consider walking up to the refugio and buying a box of wine. For this typical Chilean recipe you’ll need... • A box of wine • Sugar • The skin of half an orange • A couple of sticks of cinnamon • And… to get out of that cozy sleeping bag to put up your stove Mix all the ingredients in a pot, add sugar to taste, and heat until you can just drink it, but the alcohol is still in there. Sleep tight!

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Punta Arenas, Chile

Does Punta Arenas have a camping? Not at walking distance from the center. 4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.

Where is the bus station?

Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.

Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas? Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time… Is there any public transportation? Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive. How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!

Mario Toledo

Julia Garay

Caupolican

Quillota

I. Carrera Pinta

Ave. Colon

era

tan

os e. C Av

How far is Torres del Paine from here?

Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street. Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.

Mejicana

Bories

Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.

Sarmiento Yugoslavia

How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas?

Jose Menedez Pedro Montt

Waldo Seguel

Errazuriz Balmaceda

How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia?

Ave. Indepencia

250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.

Roca

Fagnano

21 de Mayo

Why are there ropes on the main square corners?

Can I drink the tap water?

Ave. Espana

Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.

Arauco

What does Punta Arenas mean?

Jorge Montt

There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.

O‘Higgins

Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.

Maipu

Lautaro Navarro

Where can I change money?

Senoret

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?

Magallanes

Angamos

All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.

Ave. Bulnes

How much do taxis cost?

interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.

Jose Nogueira

questions & answers

Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those

Chiloe

POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Armando Sanhueza

Port

Punta Arenas, Chile

Boliviana

Is there a boat to Ushuaia? Yes, a fancy ship called the “Expedition Cruise.”

How much is an airport transfer?

What are my penguin options?

What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?

A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles.

1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.

What type of day tours are there?

3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day.

To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan.You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church. How far is the airport out of town? About 20km or 30 minutes.

You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended). What’s with all the street dogs? Do they bite? Yes, gringos only. When does ski season start? Depending on snow conditions, the season is rougly from June-August.You can see the Strait of Magellan from the slopes. How many people live here? About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.

2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.

Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent. Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map in the Straits of Magellan? Yes! For a price. Contact Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255). They offer boat trips to remote islands for almost-off-the-map trekking, fishing, and more.

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The Isla Navarino Dientes Circuit

By J. Williams

Billed as the southernmost trekking opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino is miles beyond any ordinary trekking experience. For 53 kilometers, the route winds through an otherworldly landscape. Mountains broken out from the floor of the ocean.Where the Andes crumble into the Antarctic Plate. Where tenuous passes defy the staggering winds. Where spartan vegetation clings precariously bracing itself against the punishing climate and the manipulations of the introduced beaver. For the serious trekker, the five-day Dientes Circuit is a chance to experience unique terrain at what is literally the last scrap of land before the legendary Cape Horn and Antarctic Sea.And while the route offers many worthy experiences, like awesome views that stretch as far as the Cape Horn straits, it is also impressive for what it lacks, like crowded trails, clearly defined paths, and over-crowded refugios. In fact, there are no refugios on the route. There is not even an entrance fee to pay.Trekkers are only required to check in with the carabineros in Puerto Williams. From there, the trailhead is just three kms from the tiny village of Puerto Williams with a good possibility that you won’t see anyone else in the course of the circuit. The Dientes Circuit is relatively new, developed in the early ’90s by Lonely Planet trekking guide author Clem Lindemayer. A few of the more prominent peaks along the circuit have been named after him. Cierro Clem, for example, makes an impressive profile and serves as an important landmark. Because of the difficulty of the route and the distance of Isla Navarino from the beaten path, the Dientes Circuit receives a fraction of Chile’s annual trekking visitors. The route was marked with the Chilean numbered trail marker system in early 2001, but it is still far from a well-marked path. The Dientes trekker needs to be self-reliant and good at route finding. The 38 trail points are spread over a 53 km route, with four significant passes to cross and a myriad maze of beaver ponds and dams to negotiate in the valleys between. It is strongly advised to follow the route from Puerto Williams, as the markers are only painted on one side. Since the markers are cairns (rock

piles), individual trail markers are often difficult to distinguish from their surroundings without the red signage painted on them to mark the route. Weather is also a strong factor, particulary the strength of the winds that sweep up from the white continent and make the passes, especially the final pass, Paso Virginia, very dangerous. Blasts of wind strong enough to knock a heavily loaded trekker from their feet are not uncommon and come without warning. The Dientes Circuit is broken into five stages, each stage requiring about five hours to complete. With the long daylight hours of the southern hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be tempted to combine two stages into one day.While it is possible to do the circuit in four days, it would involve a day with two passes to surmount or a very long final day, descending from the nearly 900-meter Paso Virginia back to sea level, over a distance of 23 kms. The route markers end more than 300 meters above sea level, looking down on Bahia Virginia, and from there, the trekker must negotiate through the cow pastures and calafate bushes to the coastal road. Then hike the final 8 kms of pavement back to Puerto Williams. Passing trucks will often stop for trekkers on the final stretch. Otherwise, it’s about a two-hour walk back to Puerto Williams. Just getting to Isla Navarino is part of the adventure itself. The Patagonian airline company DAP flies a 20-odd seat twin otter from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams daily in the summer. The flight over Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan is incredibly scenic, and oddly enough, the least expensive option. There are, however, other options.Though more expensive than flying, it’s possible to travel by boat from Ushuaia across the Beagle Channel to Puerto Navarino and then travel the 50-odd kms of coastal road east to Puerto Williams. For the truly intrepid traveler, the Punta Arenas-based Transbordadora Austral Broom operates a once a week passenger ferry to Puerto Williams, a 30-hour trip through the Straits of Magellan and along the Beagle Channel. Though spartan in accommodations and service, the passing scenery of hanging glaciers and mountains that float on water truly convey an end of the world sensation.

Sunrise, shadows and snow, hiking the Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino.

The Ghosts of Patagonia

Comfortable Rooms Fully Equipped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet & Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Coffee Shop

By Marcela Suazo

José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@gmail.com Punta Arenas, Chile

he human presence in these remote lands repeats the thirst for adventure that has guided human beings since their origin. The first tribes of hunters that occupied these territories arrived 12,000 years ago. Only 6000 years ago, the Kaweshkar canoers, along with the Aonikenk (ancient dwellers of the plains), initiated the permanence and continuity of man in this corner of the planet. Soon after, the arrival of the Spanish captain Juan Ladrilleros (1557-58) marked the discovery of the zone and much later the German pioneer Hermann Eberhard (189293) initiated the colonization the area. Even later the arrival of many Chilean people from the island of Chiloé put their seal of identity on this area called Patagonia. The Yamanas or Yaghans, known as the canoeist of the Beagle, were the southernmost inhabitants in the world. They lived along the edges of the Beagle Channel, as well as neighbouring channels, as far south as Cape Horn. They were adapted to living on the coast, hunting southern sea lions for their principal source of food because of their high fat content. The Sélknam or Onas inhabited the steppes in the north and the woods in the south of Tierra del Fuego. Their way of life was very similar to that of the Aonikenk, although they never used horses.They hunted guanaco, wild birds and rodents. They lived in circular huts made of tree trunks covered with leather and sticks. The Sélknam were tall, formidable, and more aggressive in character than the other aboriginals. They died out having been displaced from their lands or eliminated by the colonists who cleared the land in order to set up farms. The Kawéskar. Called the Alacalufes by the Spanish, lived spread out in small groups that travelled, via canoe, through the channels of the Archipelago.They inhabited the area stretching from the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Pains) to the Brecknock Peninsula, a very damp and rainy area with abundant vegetation. They hunted sea lions, otters and birds, as well as fished and collected shellfish and molluscs. They would take advantage of the meat and skin of any whale beached by the low tides.They built their canoes with pieces of cut bark tied together with vegetable fibres and sealed with a mixture of earth, clay, and roots. Their huts were made with wooden poles which were covered with sea lions skin. The Aonikenk or Patagones inhabited the steppe from the River Santa Cruz in Argentina in the north to the Straight of Magellan in the south. They spent their time hunting rhea (Ñandú) and other birds, as well as the guanaco whose meat they ate and skin they used for clothing. Their homes were made using leather and wooden poles. All of the group participated in the hunt for guanaco and rheas. The women carried the tools and helped to strengthen the fencing used to isolate the animals so that they could be attacked by the men with “Boleadoras” and bows and arrows.

Bories No 655 / Punta Arenas Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 • Punta Arenas • 56-61 241029

remezon@hotmail.com

Errazuriz 567, Punta Arenas, Chile www.erraticrock.com erraticrockpa@gmail.com 56 61 221130

You’re on the right track. Jah Guide. erratic rock hostel Punta Arenas

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HOSTEL Y TURISMO

Jose Menendez 882 Punta Arenas, Chile Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279

Leyenda de los Onas Adapatación del Libro “Lo Que Cuentan los Onas” de Miguel Ángel Palermo.

S E MENEN D E Z josemenendez@chileaustral.com

www.chileaustral.com/josemenendez

D Travel. Discover. Paddle. Live. www.aquanativapatagonia.com Eberhard 161 Puerto Natales,Chile ph 414143

icen que, antiguamente, las mujeres eran las que mandaban entre los Onas. Y no sólo mandaban: el problema es que no trabajaban nada de nada. Los pobres hombres tenían que correr todo el día, cazando y juntando plantas para comer, cosiendo pieles para hacer ropa, atendiendo a los chicos. Y ellas, mientras tanto, se la pasaban rascándose la barriga, charlando y dándose la gran vida. ¿Cómo lo hacían? Gracias a una gran mentira. Ya les explico. Parece que fue Kraaeh (la luna), que era una mujer, la que tuvo la idea de aprovecharse de los hombres. Siguiendo su plan, entre todas y en secreto, construyeron una gran choza de troncos y ramas en un lugar apartado. Después, crearon unas máscaras espantosas, hicieron unas caras horribles, como para disfrazarse y que nadie fuera capaz de reconocerlas. Su obra maestra era el disfraz de la luna. Hicieron un armazon de ramas de unos dos metros de alto, en forma de tubo aplastado y lo forraron con cuero. Después, lo pintaron de rojo y le agregaron rayas punteadas de blanco. Cuando la luna se puso el armatoste, sólo se le veían los pies. Por fin, al atardecer, se metieron en las máscaras y se acabaron de disfrazar pintandose todo el cuerpo negro y rojo.Y por si fuera poco se agregaron unas manchas amarillas, otras se pintarrajearon rayas blancas y otras se pegotearon pelos de animales. Cuando estuvieron listas, se abalanzaron

sobre el campamento, donde estaban los hombres con los chicos, muy tranquilos. Aparecieron de pronto, corriendo como locas, saltando y dando gritos tremendos, que ponían los pelos de punta: unos “uuuu” estremecedores y también unos “iiiii” finitos que hacían palidecer al más valiente. Para colmo, repartieron garrotazos para todos lados. Después de hacer un gran desparramo de varones asustados, salieron disparando hacia la choza grande, donde se escondieron. Cuando a los hombres se les pasó la primera impresión, siguieron el rastro de las enmascaradas y llegaron a la choza. Apenas los vieron llegar, las mujeres--que estaban adentro--se pusieron a sacudir unos cueros que metian un ruido horrible; golpearon paredes de la choza con palos y pegaron unos gritos desgarradores, como si las estuvieran matando. Al escuchar los gritos y reconocer las voces de sus esposas e hijas, los hombres quisieron correr a ayudarlas, pero en ese momento salieron de la carpa las enmascaradas, con la luna a la cabeza. Ésta dijo, “No den un paso más.Yo soy Jalpen, un espíritu maligno, y éstos son mis ayudantes. Acá tenemos prisioneras a sus mujeres.” Kraan, el sol, que en ese entonces era un hombre y además el marido de la luna, se adelantó y dijo, “¡Esperen!, ¿Qué quieren ustedes espíritus para no hacerles nada?” “Mmmm,” dijo la luna, “Nosotras tenemos hambre. Especialmente yo. Si ustedes nos traen carne y otras cosas, no las matamos.” “¡Bueno!” dijo el sol, “¡Trato hecho! Suéltenlas y ya les traemos comida.” “¡Ah, qué vivo!” contestó la luna. “Si las soltamos, ustedes no van a volver. Hagamos esto: traigan la comida, y mientras nos den bien de comer, no las vamos a matar. Pero ellas se quedan acá. Eso sí, el día que nos quedemos con hambre, ¡zas! Nos comemos una o dos.” Desesperados, los hombres fueron a cazar y volvieron con un montón de carne. Y todos los dás tenían que hacer lo mismo. Cuando los veían acercarse, las mujeres empezaban a golpear los cueros y la carpa y pegar gritos de dolor. Así pasaron meses. Los hombres estaban siempre cansados y cada vez más flacos, porque les dejaban casi toda la comida a las mentirosas. Y, para colmo, sufrían mucho, preocupados por ellas. Cada tanto, las mujeres organizaban en la carpa una ceremonia llamada hain, después de la cual las nenas eran consideradas adultas. Padres y hermanos debían llevar a las chicas hasta allí y quedare mirando

desde afuera. Adentro, las enmascaradas se sacaban la careta y les contaban el secreto a las muchachas, que se quedaba a vivir con las demás mujeres. Un día el sol se apartó mucho por el bosque, buscando algún animal para cazar, y pasó cerca de un arroyo. A través de las hojas, le pareció sentir unas voces y risas de mujer. Intrigado, se acercó despacio y espió. En la orilla, dos mujeres-la bandurria y la garza-se estaban lavando la pintura de cuerpo, mientras se reían y decian, “Ja, Ja! ¡Qué estúpidos son los hombres! ¡se creen cualquier cosa!” En ese momento el sol entendió todo. Tembló de furia, pero se dio vuelta sin hacer ruido y corrió a llamar a los otros hombres. Juntaron garrotes y fueron a la choza de las mujeres. El sol fue el primero en entrar, rojo de indignación, y se abalanzó sobre la luna. Asustada ella salió corriendo, con su marido detrás. Corrieron, corrieron y llegaron al horizonte. Allí la luna salto al cielo y el sol la siguió. Nunca volvieron a la tierra. Todavía el sol la sigue persiguiendo, sin poder alcanzarla.

Caring for the Strays: Punta Arenas Humane Society The Punta Arenas humane society, La Protectora de Punta Arenas, needs your help! Although they provide critical services for stray animals, they are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs, La Protectora (or Corporacion de la Defensa de los Derechos de los Animales, CODDA) runs the southernmost animal shelter in the world. Founded in 1990 by Señora Elia Tagle to stop the cruel poisoning of stray dogs by the local and federal governments (who used strychnine), the nonprofit runs essential sterilization and educational programs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000.

La Protectora receives no public funding, but they manage to stretch their $20,000 USD per year budget pretty far. On this budget, they operate a shelter with 100-140 dogs and 2-5 cats. Most of their animals are not locked in cages and run around freely in several pens, eating twice daily, playing, and sometimes fighting. La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified euthanasia when necessary.With the help of the police, they also respond to cruelty and neglect cases. One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership. Another project hosts a group of high school students from the local British School, who are obligated to volunteer in order to graduate. Wondering what you can do to help? You

can help pressure the local and regional governments to support La Protectora. Write a letter to the editor of La Prensa Austral, the Punta Arenas-based regional paper, discussing how this issue affects tourism. The more letters they receive, the more local officials will respond. Draw attention to the issue by speaking with tourist-related businesses, such as travel agencies, tourist offices, and hostels. This helps raise the awareness of locals, who want happy tourists and a good reputation for their town. Financially, you can make a donation. Visit their web site (www.chileaustral.com/perros) with a PayPal account. Or better yet, stop by in person. La Protectora is located on the outskirts of Punta Arenas on the road to Club Andino at Avenida Circunvalación 1950. You can also reach them by calling (56-61) 262607 or writing to perros@chileaustral.com.

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Thinking Globally. Acting locally.

By Sarah Ritter

that exist already and are filling our landfill sites or worse, littering the countryside. Once you get back home, give some of these tips a whirl... •

photo by Agata Malchrowicz

f you’ve traveled all the way to Patagonia, you’re probably here to experience the natural beauty of the place--the breathtaking view of Los Cuernos in Torres del Paine, Chile, towering above the turquoise waters of Lake Nordenskjöld, the simple majesty of Fitzroy or El Torre in Glaciers National Park in Argentina. And if you strongly appreciate the natural world, then maybe to a greater or lesser extent you share a concern for its well-being. Torres del Paine and Glaciers National Parks, like all national parks around the world, serve as ambassador for our planet, a reminder of the power and the raw beauty of nature, simple and simultaneously impossibly complex. Parks such as these are so popular for their pristineness. But not for long, what with the unstoppable advance of people. Pause for a minute and compare this place with your own hometown. If you’re a city dweller, your thoughts of home may be paved over with streets, tall buildings, traffic jams, rush and bustle. In Patagonia, you may feel a world away from this reality, but all this coexists in the same planet, a planet in need of care and protection from everyone of us. It is easy to look at the frightening pace of technological progress in the West and the awakening, insatiable appetite for development in the East, and throw our hands up in resignation. What can we do? What impact can any one individual have? But if the actions of each individual combine with those of other individuals, they really can make a difference. This doesn’t mean changing your life. Just being conscious of the environmental impact of

your day-to-day activities and making small changes to reduce that impact is a good place to start. Here are some conservation ideas to take with you while you´re on the road or traveling... •

•

1. If the water supply is drinkable, refill your water bottle from the tap (or in the Park from any of the fast-flowing mountain streams), rather than buy new plastic bottles of mineral water each time. Plastics are derived from nonrenewable resources, processed using extensive chemical treatments, so as well as being nonbiodegradable, they are very environmentally damaging to produce. Every plastic bottle you throw away is a waste of precious resources. 2. Dispose of used batteries responsibly. Discarded batteries, once they start to break down, leak metals and poisons which can enter watercourses and kill plants and wildlife. Even throwing your batteries in the bin means they end up in a landfill site or worse, disposed of offshore, and will have the same damaging effect there. 3. Avoid buying prepackaged food in the supermarket. Buy loose fruit, vegetables and meat to cut down on the packaging you consume. Packaging uses a lot of natural resources and generally goes straight into the garbage bin once you get home. 4. Take your own bag or backpack to the supermarket so you don’t need to use the plastic bags provided. Plastic bags cannot be recycled and take hundreds of years to biodegrade, so every one you use is adding to the millions

1. Investigate insulating your home as efficiently as possible. This will not only save you money in reduced heating bills but means you will also use less of the planet’s resources. It’s worth checking to see if your government offers grants for home insulation and upgrades to boilers/heating systems to help meet the emissions targets set by the Kyoto agreement and others. • 2. Energy-saving light bulbs are a good step too, but admittedly rather ugly. You could always hide them with a funky lampshade. • 3. Look into available sources of “green” energy for your home. The vast majority of household electricity-generation still uses scarce fossil fuels and generates harmful greenhouse gases. Other options include solar or wind power, which on a small, domestic scale can be very expensive. Alternatively in some countries “green” electricity providers, which generate some if not all of their power through renewable sources, are now entering the market. • 4. Ideally the fewer resources you use the better, but obviously we all use some. So whatever you do use and throw out each week, try to recycle as much as possible, be it paper, glass, plastic, tin or any other material. Look for recycling services in your area, which will give you advice on how to incorporate recycling in your home. • 5. Unfortunately, one of the biggest culprits of environmental damage is travel, especially air travel. As most of us here are far from home and will need to take at least one flight to get back to family and friends, we’ll avoid the guilt trip here. One way to make amends is to join a “carbon neutralization” or “carbonsink” scheme, in which you can pay for trees to be planted on your behalf to absorb carbon released into the environment as a result of your action. Have a look at www.futureforests. com or www.CO2.org for more information. As you continue on to your next destination, may you take with you vivid memories of all you have experienced in this magical place and may they inspire you to care for our fragile planet, on whose well-being this Park, the natural world and our own future depend.

Making and Breaking Camp In Patagonia, most likely all your camping will be at campsites, as camping offtrail is often illegal. Finding privacy may be difficult, so earplugs are a good option. If you do find yourself in a place with the opportunity to free-camp outside of the designated spots, camp on hard, durable surfaces, like rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Be sure you camp at least 50 meters away from any water sources, like lakes, rivers or streams. Remember that good campsites are found, not made. It’s not necessary to alter a site. If there is an existing fire ring at your campsite, DO NOT BUILD ANOTHER ONE. Campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Use a lightweight stove for cooking. For light, candle lanterns work great. Leave nature the way you found it, so that others may enjoy it as well. This means that what you pack in, you also pack out. It means you dispose of waste properly, digging 6-8inch deep catholes at least 200 feet away from water, camp and trails. Pack out toilet paper and feminine hygiene products. DO NOT WASH DISHES IN YOUR WATER SOURCE. Collect water and carry it away from its source to do your washing, and use biodegradable soap. When it’s time to break camp and move on, make sure you don’t forget anything. Once the backpacks are packed and the tents are stowed, everyone should make a sweep of the camp, looking for anything left behind, like binoculars hanging in the tree or small trash, like a small ripped corner of a candy bar. Check where the packs were and where the kitchen was. Don’t be afraid to pick up a piece of garbage that wasn’t yours. Leave the campsite the way you would want to find it if you were camping there next. Replace any rocks or large, natural pieces of wood you might have moved. Then, ask yourself some questions. How can I reduce my impact? Was it obvious were the tent was? Was vegetation crushed permanently, or will it pop up again easily. Is there any micro-trash left to be picked up? Did I create any new and unnecessary trails? Examining your camp before you leave it, is a great way to see how you can do it better next time.

October.08

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Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Puerto Natales is a city in the Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park, Chile. It is the capital of both the commune of the same name and the Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region. Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawésqar tribe or Alacaluf and the Aonikenk or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was

questions & answers

at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591. Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively.

If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day?

Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores.

settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, one of the most important activities is tourism. Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Paine, there are many day tours that can be booked from muliple agencies in the downtown area.

Torres del Paine questions? A free information seminar is held everyday at erratic rock hostel at 3 p.m. -Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales, Chile. Everything is covered, from refugio info to free campsites, meals to equipment. This 1.5 hour talk is given in english and comes with a smile.

Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them?

This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop.

Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes). What about shopping hours midday?

If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning?

Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G.

This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A.

What are the winters like around here?

What is Navimag?

Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful.

Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt.

Why is there so much trash on the beach?

Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day?

Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running

That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up. What about recycling programs?

Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them

It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There’s a military base located outside of town. And all of the dogs running around?

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Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something?

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Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a

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Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories

1.000 pesos within city limits.

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Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea

Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang. What is a “Zodiac”? A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine.

Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?!

How much do the taxis cost?

Puerto Natales, Chile

Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else?

within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo.

Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Canal Señoret

car can make for a unique experience.

Get your Black Sheep T-shirt now! Bulnes 495 Puerto Natales, Chile

W as h ing W it h D irt Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat; the grease on meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. We need it for energy while trekking. A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use these products at all. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left over greases on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue (impossible to remove without soap & water)... or is it? Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fist-full of dirt, and scrub! The small granuals of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any difficult foods. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap-free!

Puerto Natales

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Formal Attire Hits Patagonia Every year in mid-September, the first black and white heads timidly pop out of the cold water from the Strait of Magellan. Spring has begun and soon the first brave Magellanic Penguin steps onto one of Patagonia’s lone pebble beaches, just like their anscesters have done for thousands of years. Only males arrive at the beginning, but it doesn’t take long for the females to join the males and start finding their soul mates for the sole but definite purpose of reproduction. They then stay all summer until their chicks are big enough to join their parents at the end of March on their long journey north. There are five colonies that you can visit around Punta Arenas: Seno Otway, Isla Magdalena, Cabo Virgenes, Tucker Islet, and Ruppert Islet. All of contain the same species: Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus). So what are your options? Pretty much all tour operators and travel agencies in Punta Arenas offer daily departures to Seno Otway in the afternoon, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m., picking folks up at their accommodations. It’s an hour drive through the Patagonian pampas to reach private property, where about 11,000 penguins nest. The landlord officially opened his terrain for visitors on October 15, 2007, and will close it up at the end of March, when the penguins start to head north.This year, the entrance fee at Seno Otway is 4.500 pesos. There’s also a fee of 1.000 pesos to use the private road, the only way to access the colony. The ferry boat that connects Punta Arenas and Porvenir takes you to Isla Magdalena on Tuesdays,Thursdays, and Saturdays, but it doesn’t start operating until the end of November or beginning of December. There’s about 120,000 penguins on Isla

Magdalena. This excursion begins at “Tres Puentes” port, which you can reach from downtown Punta Arenas by hopping on one of the colectivos, either nº 15 or 20. The price for this tour will be 20.000 pesos, including entrance fee. Every day at 7:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. (weather permitting), you can catch a fast zodiac boat across the Strait of Magellan to Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta. The latter island is home to about 1,000 sea lions, who consider Isla Magdalena their special penguin restaurant. This is an adventurous yet safe alternative to the ferry. Price: 32.000 pesos, including the shuttle transfer from/to Punta Arenas and to/from the dock, and the entrance fee. The Eastern entrance of the Strait of Magellan is called Cabo Virgenes. Nearby, on Argentine soil, is a penguin colony that is said to be the second largest in South America (after Punta Tombo), with about 200,000 birds. It is best reached by joining a tour from Río Gallegos or by renting a car and driving the dirt road southeast of Río Gallegos yourself. It’s a pretty large distance, but the chances that you and the penguins will be the only ones there are pretty good! Price from Río Gallegos: 120 Argentinian pesos plus 15ARP entrance fee. A visit to Tucker Islet is only possible by joining one of the weekly expedition cruises from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia onboard the Mare Australis or Via Australis. Prices for the 5 day/4 night cruise start at USD 1,150 per person. To get there, you can join a Humpback Whale Watching tour that runs from December to April from/to Punta Arenas.The penguin colony has an estimated 20,000 members. This season’s prices for the 3 day/2 night all-inclusive tour is USD 900 per person.

The new season of formal wear brings back the classic look, black on plumy white, with full-length coattails. The younger generation (not pictured) will sport soft grey pullovers until summer fashion season hits.

October.08

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Aquaterra Lodge • Puerto Natales, Chile

Injured on Vacation?

Not the adventure you are looking for... Preparation is key in preventing many trekking injuries. Here’s how you can prepare yourself and avoid injuries this season. HYDRATE

Miraflores 798 Phone 74502944

Phone +56 61 412239 • Bulnes 299 • Puerto Natales, Chile

www.aquaterrapatagonia.com

SOSIEGO HOSTEL puerto natales, chile

Just because it’s cold and wintry, doesn’t mean you can afford to skimp on the water. Water regulates body temperature, helps transport nutrients and removes toxins from muscles, not to mention human’s are 90% water. Start drinking plenty of water the day before your big snow day, trek, or rigorous exercise. Carry a water bottle with you during your winter activities, and remember to drink regularly throughout the day, even when you don’t feel thirsty. Schedule sip breaks if need be. FUEL UP

chamorromilosevic@yahoo.es

The Milodon Laundry Service

Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Closed Sundays. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales, Chile

1 and 2 day tours though Patagonian fjords & canals. A true insiders guided tour. Visit our website for details.

4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY "AQUEDANO

0UERTO .ATALES

Winter sports are physically demanding and quickly deplete your body’s energy. Bring snacks that are high in and protein and carbs, such as energy bars, granola, fruits, sandwiches, or chunky soups in a thermos. LAYER YOUR CLOTHING This will allow you to alter your temperature throughout the day and adjust to the changing weather. Your first layer should be polypropylene or a synthetic fabric that dries quickly and absorbs sweat. Make sure the outermost layer is wind- and water-resistant. Keep spare dry clothes on hand, just in case, as wet clothes don’t retain heat. EQUIP YOURSELF One of the main causes of severe lower extremity injuries in skiing is bindings that don’t release properly during falls. Make sure that your bindings work properly before hitting the slopes. Wrist fractures are the most common injuries in snowboarding, and they occur when snowboarders try to break their fall with outstretched arms. Wrist braces may be worth considering. PROTECT YOUR EYES Wear goggles or sunglasses to decrease glare from the sun.You’ll be able to see the terrain better.These will also protect your eyes from snow, wind, rain, ice and debris. KNOW YOUR LIMITS Injuries most commonly occur when you are fatigued—your muscles are weakened and your reaction times diminished—so take breaks and give your body time to recuperate throughout the day. Recognize your limitations and don’t push it too far in one outing. You’re likelihood of injury increases if you are performing skills that you’re body isn’t ready for. WARM UP

torres del paine tested in patagonia

www.senderoalacalufe.com

sendero-alacalufe@hotmail.com Puerto Natales, Chile • Ph 56 61 414747

New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310

Cold muscles, tendons, and ligaments are at increased risk of energy, so be sure to perform comprehensive warm ups before you start your activity. If you’re skiing or snowboarding, take a few easy jogs first to loosen and warm your muscles. It’s easier to prevent injuries than to rehabilitate from them. Be smart, and listen to your body. Don’t overdo it. But remember: even the best-prepared athletes may still suffer injuries. Should you get injured, seek medical attention as soon as possible. Early intervention almost always precipitates a quicker recovery.

D r i n k yo u r f i l l o f wat e r While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp in mild weather would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: Clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that´s different. If you’re feeling thirsty, then you’re already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also signs of dehydration. Take time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a liter in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to continually drink all day. Torres del Paine is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So, bottoms up!

Temporada de Pesca en Patagonia 16 de Octubre al 14 de Abril La licencia de “Aguas Continentales” y la de “Aguas Marinas,” ambas son válidas para chilenos y residentes. En el caso de los extranjeros, existe una licencia anual única, la cual se puede adquirir en la oficina de SERNAPESCA, Yungay 361- Punta Natales o 21 de mayo 149, Punta Arenas. Valor de la Licencia Aguas continentales (todo Chile)... • Chilenos y residentes 0,7 UF (aprox. $14.000) • Extranjeros 1,5 UF (aprox. $30.000) • Valor Licencia aguas marítimas $1050 (todo Chile) Lugares para pescar natales y alrededores... LAGUNA SOFÍA • Ubicación: A 30 Km. de Natales, camino Norte. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris, se tienen antecedentes de especies provenientes de cultivo Salmón Chinook y Coho. Lago Balmaceda • Ubicación: A 40 Km. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Río Hollemberg • Ubicación: A 25 Km. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Lago Pinto • Ubicación: A 50 Km. app. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café. Lago del Toro • Ubicación: A 80 Km. de Natales. En el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Río Serrano • Ubicación: A 168 Km. de Natales, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Nace del lago Toro y desemboca en Seno Última Esperanza. • Especies: Trucha Marrón y Trucha Arcoiris. • Captura histórica: 20.000 kg

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Quick (and dirt cheap) getaways. Bike.

In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far away” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera. If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the Park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “El Camino a Dumestre”). You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless ly they careen by the sea. The

Por Max Vergara farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. On a clear day, you’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Peninsula. If you come prepared, you can even camp along the beach. The law in Chile states that no one can own the edges of the ocean, fjords, or lakes. A two-day bike ride, with all your kit, is a great way to see a quieter (and cheaper) Patagonia. Puerto Natales claims some of the best views in Chile and should not be missed. Biking south, out of town, will serve you an unforgettable helping of eye-candy. If this sounds nice, but you’re still unsure, ask yourself this simple question: When do you think you’ll be back?

Foot. Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? Love Puerto Natales and planning on staying here? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two-hour hike up Cerro Dorotea, definitely on the top of the list of activities around here. Pack up your camera, rent a bike or hail a taxi. If taking a taxi, ask them to drop you off at Mirador Dorotea. If you’re not in a rush, you can just hitchhike the approximately 9 km to the Mirador. If you bike to Dorotea, take the road toward Punta Arenas and keep a lookout for the sign “Cerro Mirador Dorotea.” It’s a 15-minute taxi ride to the southern side of Dorotea. When you arrive, you’ll

Sobre la Patagonia Se Ha Escrito Mucho

have to pay the woman who lives in the house there about $3.000 pesos. This gives you permission to cross her property, and assures that a light meal with tea will be waiting for you when you return from hiking up the hill. Boot it on up the trail. It’s well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point, you catch a great view of Natales and Seno Última Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif and surrounding mountains is gorgeous. After exploring the ridgeline, head back down to enjoy your lunch and chat with the property owner.

Una de las tantas riquezas de esta zona se encuentran entre las hojas de los diferentes libros que nos cuentan sus aventuras, vivencias y experiencias en torno a este pedazo de tierra que es tan especial. La prolífica producción literaria es maravillosa. Es un placer entrar a cualquiera de esas tiendas de libros y enfrentarse a tanta variedad de temas, fotos, generos, ediciones y portadas. No creo que exista otra región de Chile que concentre tanto material literario en el cual se refleja tan bien a su gente, sus paisajes y su historia. Para conocer bien a esta Patagonia simplemente hay que leerla (y caminarla y conversarla también). Una forma de introducirse en la historia Patagónica, conocer sus orígenes, sus raíces, es leyendo los varios libros que existen a modo de resumen. Esta vez me voy a detener en dos libros que son especialmente fáciles de leer, completos e interesantes. Lamentablemente la historia de nuestra Patagonia está manchada de sangre. No solo la sangre de los indígenas riega estas tierras, primeros habitantes de la región, que fueron cazados y exterminados por el solo hecho de no ser como los occidentales que vinieron a poblar esta tierra. Desde un comienzo de la historia moderna de Punta Arenas y Ultima Esperanza, el inicio fue oscuro y sombrío. En el siglo XIX, dos grandes acontecimientos, sublevaciones y motines, derramaron la sangre de los pioneros y primeros colonos del fin del mundo. “Cambiazo, el Ultimo Pirata del Estrecho” es un libro escrito por Armando Braun Menéndez, donde se relata la historia de este convicto que, el 17 de noviembre de 1851 levanta a un grupo de amotinados y se toma lo que en esa época era el penal de Punta Arenas. Cerca de 300 hombre fueron guiados por este ser, un hombre de inconcebible crueldad y sadismo, asesino desalmado, borrachín pendenciero, ladrón y codicioso. Una vez dominado el Cuartel de la

Guarnición y tomado el control de la ciudad. apresaron a las autoridades locales, menos al gobernador Muñoz Gamero, que alcanzó a huir junto al párroco de la colonia. Las correrías y pillerías de estos piratas casi llevan a la ciudad a la destrucción total. Por mientras el gobernador Muñoz Gamero había escapado en un bote que lo había arrastrado hacia Tierra del Fuego y ahí tuvo que luchar contra los constantes ataques de los indígenas de la zona.Valientemente decidió volver a la colonia, donde fue apresado y después fusilado. Aquel motín fue la pesadilla de media generación. Cambiazo fue fusilado en Valparaíso en 1852 a la vista del público en el Cerro de la Cárcel. En fin, el relato del libro es muy ameno, ágil y mantiene el interés en cada una de sus 292 páginas y además contiene interesantes detalles, descripciones, fotografías e ilustraciones de cómo era la vida en Punta Arenas en esa época. Otro libro de Braun Menéndez es “El Motín de los Artilleros,” donde relata la sublevación de un grupo de desertores, que el día 11 de noviembre de 1877, dieron comienzo a la matanza, violación y destrucción de la colonia con un llamativo tiro de salva para poner en aviso a todos que la “fiesta” había comenzado. Tres días de borrachera, saqueo y matanza nuevamente marcaron a la población, que debió escapar aterrorizada a los bosques cercanos a la ciudad y permanecer ahí escondidos bajo una lluvia que no paró de caer. Dublé Almeyda era el gobernador de esa época. El logró escapar hacia el Seno Skyring, donde fue recogido por la Corbeta Magallanes y así regresó a la colonia y puso fin a esta sublevación. Nuevamente el relato fluye generando interés página tras página, con descripciones que son un reflejo a lo que realmente fue el vivir de los primeros colonos. Altamente recomendable para gente que gusta de la historia y de viajar en el tiempo.

Traducciones

del español al inglés Páginas web, folletos, etc.

Carolina Wilson cel 89867596 Puerto Natales, Chile cjwilson07@gmail.com

Bulnes 622 & Bulnes 555 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 410931 & 415860 miriamparra_s@hotmail.com

Lodge • Home • Restaurant

Camino a Bories, Km 0.5 Puerto Natales, Chile (56 61) 414 168 www.weskar.cl contacto@weskar.cl

Sights and sunsets from Patagonia Puerto Natales waterfront, 500 meters from the ‘Big Milodon.’

October.08

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The

Planet Patagonia. Es tiempo de decidir. Es hora de hacer algo por Puerto Natales, por nuestra Tierra. Es el momento de hacer algo por nuestros hijos y algo por nosotros mismos. Los problemas que afectan al medio ambiente no se encuentran al otro lado de nuestro planeta, son parte de nuestro diario vivir. Es por esto que la Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza en conjunto con Sernatur, la Asociación de Guías de Última Esperanza, la Asociación Ecopatagonia y muchos amigos del medio ambiente, han iniciado una Campaña llamada “DESEMBOLSATE” que tiene por finalidad invitar a los vecinos de Puerto Natales a rescatar del baúl de la abuelita la clásica bolsa de género o la malla para la feria que antiguamente se usaba. No nos queremos quedar de brazos cruzados es por esto que hemos comenzado este movimiento para eliminar las abundantes bolsas plásticas. Estas, junto a miles de envases desechables y muchos otros elementos, han llenado nuestras casas y ensuciado las calles, playas, parques naturales, océanos, etc. El mundo entero esta cubriéndose por estos fantasmas de polietileno y nylon a una velocidad imparable. Cientos de animales de todas las especies mueren diariamente por asfixia, envenenamiento y estrangulación producida por alguno de estos elementos. ¿Que estamos esperando para hacer algo? No sólo queremos decir que no queremos más bolsas, sino que además debemos actuar activamente para cambiar este sistema de contaminación silencioso.Tu también puedes ser parte de este movimiento y así lo esperamos, queremos que nos hagas llegar tus ideas para desarrollar este proyecto.

¿SABIAS QUE? Las bolsas de plástico, fabricadas con polietileno, se demoran entre 100 y 1000 años, en degradarse. En China, diariamente se utilizan dos mil millones de bolsas. En Chile se estima que al año el comercio nos entrega nada más ni nada menos que la cantidad de 3.000.000.000 de bolsas plásticas. El 90% de todas esas bolsas plásticas termina simplemente en un vertedero, siendo la mayoría de las veces utilizada solo para llevar productos del supermercado hasta la casa. La vida útil real de estas bolsas, se resume en el 90% de los casos a 20 minutos, el tiempo promedio que tardamos en llegar desde el lugar en donde compramos a nuestro hogar, luego de esto su destino automático es el vertedero Miles de bolsas se fabrican por minuto, estas son útiles solo durante otros pocos minutos, pero luego, tardaran entre 500 y mil años en desaparecer del medio ambiente. Esas bolsas son las mismas que actualmente afean el paisaje de Puerto Natales y todos sus alrededores.Todos sabemos que causan daño al medio ambiente--directo e indirecto--pero las seguimos usando. Este panorama comienza a cambiar porque nosotros decidimos cambiar: 1) Usa bolsas de genero o de malla (como las que usaban las abuelitas) para hacer tus compras. 2) Rechaza la bolsita plastica que te dan en el comercio hasta por comprar un chicle. 3) Si eres comerciante ofrece bolsas de papel o pidele a tus clientes que lleven sus bolsas. Más información Cámara de Turismo Ultima Esperanza: camaraturismoue@yahoo.com

People, profit, PLANET Since 1985, the clothing and outdoor company Patagonia has pledged 1% of sales to the preservation and restoration of the natural environment. They’ve awarded over 31 million dollars in cash and in-kind donations to domestic and international grassroots enviro groups making a difference in their local communities. Now the founder of Patagonia,Yvon Chouinard, and Craig Mathews, owner of Blue Ribbon Flies, have created a non-profit corporation with the sole purpose of encouraging businesses to give back to the environment. 1% For The Planet is an alliance of businesses that understand the necessity of protecting the natural environment. They understand that profit and loss are directly linked to the health of our environment. In addition, these businesses

are concerned with the social and environmental impacts of industry. If you’re a business owner (or have any influence over your boss) please consider becoming a member of this socially and environmentally progressive group. By contributing 1% of net annual sales to grassroots enviro groups, members of 1% For The Planet affect real change. And members receive other benefits: The satisfaction of paving the way for more corporate responsibility in the business community and the recognition, support and patronage of conscientious consumers who value serious commitment to the environment. To learn more about 1% For The Planet, check out www.onepercentfortheplanet.org

Non-native Scentless Chamomille runs ramant and lovely in the meadow valleys of Torres del Paine

Non-Native Wild Flowers Invading Patagonia No, that dandelion is not supposed to be here. And neither is that clover. And that scentless chamomile? An outsider as well. These plant species, and a number of others, made their way to Patagonia years ago and, quite literally, put down roots. Some biologists estimate around 25 percent of the plant species in some parts of Torres del Paine National Park originated elsewhere. “Invasive species are going to continue arriving as a consequence of tourism,” said botanist Osvaldo Vidal, author of the guide Flora Torres del Paine and a doctoral student in Germany, speaking in Spanish. “This is clear.” Many of the invasive grasses and ground covers found in Patagonia were introduced as forage for livestock, and many of the flowers were brought over for ornamentation purposes. Other plants arrived by accident:Their seeds rode into the region in the fur, feathers or intestines of animals, or the shoes, clothing, tents or cars of humans. Most came from Europe. Some of the most common invasive species in Torres del Paine today are Poison Hemlock, Red Sorrel, Scentless Chamomile, Silver Hairgrass and Spotted Catsear. Invasive plants have earned a bad reputation in the scientific community for

By Christina Cooke

their tendency to change ecological patterns and displace their native counterparts. Few, if any, studies have been conducted to determine the effects of the invaders in Patagonia, however. Morty Ortega, a professor at the University of Connecticut who has conducted research in the park since 1977, said he considers most of the invasive grasses and ground covers in Patagonia more useful than threatening. “Perhaps the most dangerous ones are those that are brought as ornamentals and escape because of their aggressive nature,” he said, citing a fast-spreading, white-flowered plant named cicuta as a prime example. He described the plant as both poisonous and useless. Human visitors, hikers especially, are the single greatest threat to the native Patagonian ecosystem today, Vidal and Ortega agree. In addition to unknowingly spreading seeds, they compact the soil, making it ill suited for fragile native species and ideal for hearty invaders. So, as you trek through Torres del Paine National Park this season, do your part to slow the invasion.Stay on established campsites and trails, and wash seeds from your clothes and supplies before you arrive and after you leave. That way, Patagonia can stay Patagonia, and stop evolving into the countryside outside your hometown.

Water.

Drink up, without the plastic. Most travelers believe tap water is never drinkable, even at home. Better avoid drinking water from rivers and streams or you’ll fall victim to all sorts of waterborne illnesses, like diarrhea, e coli infection, or cholera, you know, “beaver fever.” We can thank the water-bottling companies and the media attention they get for a lot of this fear. But in places, like Torres del Paine and most of the Fitz Roy area, not only is it completely safe to drink the water, but it also tastes delicious: fresh, clean, better than water out of any plastic bottle! As someone who tries to protect the environment, you might be appalled to learn that plastic water bottles account for 80% of all plastic trash collected in Patagonia. This is completely unnecessary. Patagonia’s national parks are burdened under the mountain of trash that is produced in them on a daily basis.

So, please do yourself and pachamama (Mother Earth) a favor: Save your precious pesos, and leave the two-liter bottles of flashy imported water in the store. Fill your cup with the glacier-fed goodness of Patagonia’s still-pristine, cool clean water. When you get back to town, if you’re staying someplace where the water is deemed safe for drinking, ask for “agua de la llave,” or just help yourself to a glass of sweet H2O from the tap. Better still, spend your saved cash on a couple of local beers-brewed with the same natural freshwater--sans plastic. If you are staying in a place where the water drinkability factor is questionable, just boil the tap water and fill your Nalgene or other reusable water bottle with the boiled water. Or invest in a water filter. Over the long run this will save you money, not to mention saving the landfills tons of plastic.

Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

e Green Pages. Work. Consume. Repeat. The story of stuff.

Backpack - Check. Sleeping bag - Check. Boots in South Africa. Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic thrown - Check. Gore-tex jacket - Check. Sunglasses - Check. iPod in from China. Assembled in Mexico. Shipped to the United - Check. Do you ever wonder where all this stuff comes from? States. Shelved and sold as cheaply and as quickly as possible. Sure, it’s from the store, but how is it made? What happens These days, the average American consumes twice before it makes its way to the store? What happens when you’re as much more than they did 50 years ago. For a reason.We might done using it? The internet video ‘The Story of Stuff With think the consumer boom existed longer than we have, but it Annie Leonard’ (www.storyofstuff.com) explores the line of was, in fact, premeditated and researched. American post-WWII consumption, from extraction to disposal. You need to check retail analyst Victor LeBeau said, “Our enormously productive out this eye-opening video, and tell your friends to do the economy… demands that we make consumption our way of same. life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, Most of us are at least a little bit familiar with the that we seek our spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in gruesome statistics surrounding consumption… We need things waste. In the Amazon, 2,000 consumed, burned up, replaced trees are being cut down every and discarded at an everMetal mined in South Africa. minute. 80% of the world’s accelerating rate.” original forests are gone, kaput. But the mad cycle Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic The U.S. government admits to that such consumerism calls producing four billion pounds thrown in from China. Assembled in for doesn’t make people happy. of toxic chemicals every year. Think of the huge number of Individuals produce 4.5 pounds Mexico. Shipped to the United States. prescriptions for anti-depressants of garbage a day. If everyone on (another item to consume, of Shelved and sold as cheaply and as Earth consumed as crazily as course). Work till you drop. Americans, we would need 3-5 Watch TV to relax. Feel low quickly as possible. planets in order to survive. The because of the pretty people statistics vary slightly according on commercials suggest you be to source, but any way you look more like them. Buy more to be at them, even if you choose to do so with your eyes closed, like the pretty people in those ads. Work more to afford to buy they’re there. more, and so on. It’s easy to stay numb to the data, maybe because We shouldn’t think of this as a purely North we already know it too well or we rely on our material items American problem, however.The maniacal cycle pervades many so much, we believe we can’t live without them. Plus, we only countries. It’s time to hop off this hamster wheel. If people see the product part of production, the easy, consumable part. created the model of consumerism, surely, we can recreate a Ads glide across our televisions, telling us we need to buy more more sustainable way to live with our Earth. To find out more, stuff, newer stuff. We eye what’s on the shelves in the stores, all take 20 minutes to view ‘The Story of Stuff.’ And recycle the so easy to buy, and so cheap, especially when you think about information: Pass it on! all the labor that goes into making the product. Metal mined

Black Sheep online. Coming Soon...

Mandala Andino

Live your life to the fullest extent possible with bodywork based on gentle touch.

phone 56 61 414143 • mandalaandino@yahoo.com • Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile

Patagonian garbage blowin’ in the wind. As a traveler, do you ever wonder how the recycle programs work? Are there even programs to recycle? In Patagonia, we’ve all noticed the lack of garbage bins, much less recycle bins. In many cities, it is up to the individual businesses to sort and save their recyclables in hopes that, by the end of the season, there will be some sort of system in place to pass their sorted items onto recycling plants. People have to get creative. Some businesses are known for sorting everything, even their organic waste, which is collected and fed to local pigs. Some restaurants in Chile rinse out and store their used tetrapak cartons (milk and juice cartons with the silver lining) all season long, before they ship them all to Santiago. Often, before the season is over, these recycling optimists run out of storage space. And when they do, they’ll be forced to start throwing away perfectly recyclable items. What happens when the season is over? Most places will produce less trash with fewer travelers passing through, but the chances that the folks who stay in their towns during winter will be able to recycle their recyclables, also become fewer, because the programs all seem to fizzle and fade. Disposing of non-recyclable garbage is another stinky subject. Litter rustling around in the wind is a huge

puerto natales, chile

blight on the Patagonian landscape. And it accumulates every garbage day. In Chilean Patagonia, where plastic bags haven’t been banned as they have in Argentine places like Calafate and Chaltén, everybody puts garbage out to be collected at the same time, twice a week. On garbage day, residents hang their garbage bags, usually once-used, flimsy plastic grocery bags, from trees, or place them in holey raised baskets outside their houses. Then the mobs of hungry street dogs hunt down the town’s leftover grub, tearing open white bag after white bag. Trash spills everywhere, just in time for the wind to swoop in and sweep it where it may. Not to put a damper on your trip, but if you’re wondering what you can do as a traveler, here are a few ideas. Express concern everywhere you go. Ask about recycling programs. Don’t buy bottled water; the tap water in most of Patagonia is delicious and safe. Try to buy things that don’t don a lot of packaging waste. Refuse the plastic bags you’ll be given, and bring your own burlier, reusable bag.Take waste back home with you, especially little things, like spent batteries. These small acts may not seem like much, but every little bit helps.

Chile Passes National Whale Sanctuary Law On September 11, 2008, the Chilean Congress unanimously approved a bill declaring Chilean jurisdictional waters to be a whale sanctuary. Now, the bill heads to the desk of President Michelle Bachelet who originally submitted the measure to Congress. She is expected to announce the bill as a Law of the Republic shortly. Chilean conservation and fishermen’s groups praised the legislators for supporting the will of the Chilean people regarding conservation of the waters off Chile’s 3,400 mile (5,500 km) long coast. They said the final approval of the

law will allow Chile to attend the intersessional meeting of the International Whaling Commission next week in Florida with a strong message of conservation and non-lethal use of cetaceans. “We are extremely happy with the consensus obtained in support of the law, including the national and international community, the legislative and executive branch and the Chilean Navy,” said spokesman. “We are extremely happy since this law will help us as a country to protect the marine biodiversity. It is our duty and obligation to do so.”

erratic rock

backpacker’s hostel baquedano 719, puerto natales www.erraticrock.com 56 61 410355

erratic rock 2

bed & breakfast b.zamora 732, puerto natales www.erraticrock.com 56 61 414317

hostels • equipment • information • guides

October.08

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Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential

How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.

What’s the latest I can start a trek in the Park? In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park at 2 p.m., más o menos. Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. What’s the Park entrance fee this month? 8.000 clp (about $16 greenbacks USD). How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs 3.500 to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free. Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas.

What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Is it better to trek the park clockwise or counterclockwise? You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.

Torres d del Paine National tion ional Park

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Lago Pehoe

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Lago Verde

Sierra del Toro

Lago del Toro

Cerro Castillo

Pueblito Río Serrano

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How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.

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don Milo Cave

Puerto Natales

Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed

H o s t e r i a

L ago del T oro

Laundry, Transfers, Horse riding

Like home... Hosteria Fono: 56 61 412481 Reservas Fono:56 61 220014 (Punta Arenas)

Río Serrano, Patagonia hosteria@lagodeltoro.com www.lagodeltoro.com

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G l a c i er Gre y

Azul

Argentina

What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m.

Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though.

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How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.

Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.

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What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.

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How much money do I need to bring in the Park with me? 8.000 enterance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 40.000clp.

standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.

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questions & answers

Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the

C amp o del Hielo Sur - Patagonian S outhern Ice Field

during the winter off-season. Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples. Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food. Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio. Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.

Should I worry about bugs in the Park? You will see bugs on the back circuit if there is no wind and some warmer weather. Bug repellent is a good idea. Do I have to worry about making my reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine? Yes. For now, in early season, make sure to talk to the office you bought your ticket at, and speak to the driver - just to be sure. It becomes easier in mid-season. How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.

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Torres del Paine Climbing Permit Information •

Details of your route(s) and intended timescale. Plan a trip to the Administration Centre. At the Administration Centre, you will need to provide the name of your Expedition (so if you don’t have a name already, think up something impressive before you arrive!) and all the documentation mentioned above. The insurance documents are vital. You will not get your permit without them. The permit is required for your own protection in the case of an emergency. If you have an accident CONAF needs to know firstly where you are, and also that you have the insurance cover in place to meet the costs of any rescue operation needed. While CONAF Park rangers will assist anyone who is injured or otherwise incapacitated on the marked trails without charge, it does not have the resources to rescue those who undertake dangerous sports off the marked trails. You do that at your own risk and expense. You will be given a copy of the CONAF permit, which you need to take to the ranger station of the first sector in which you are planning to climb. CONAF will nominate a Park ranger as the main contact for your expedition with whom you should stay in contact through the duration of your climbing, so that they can monitor your safety and know when you leave.

Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 albergue@lastorres.com Los Cuernos & Torre Central are open. Chileno will open October 2. Seron will open mid-October. Torre Norte will open November 1. Vertice +56-61 412742 ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Lodge Paine Grande is open. Campamento Perros open mid-October. Refugio Dickson open mid-October. Refugio Grey open Oct 1st. Breakfast

$10.00

Dorm bed

$40.00

Lunch

$14.00

Campsite

$7.00

Dinner

$18.00

Sleeping bag

$9.00

Full board

$80.00

2-person tent $14.00 Mattress

Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it’s a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so pucker up and enjoy!

$3.00

*Prices are approximate and may be slightly higher at some refugios. Note: Schedules often change at the start of the season. Check with the refugio companies directly for the latest info for openings and closures.

2008-2009 Season Schedule

Volunteers Needed.

Pisco Sour • 3 parts pisco • 1 part lemon juice • Powdered sugar • 1 egg white • Ice cubes

Prices are in U.S. dollars*

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS

Torres del Paine.

MA. The word means love in Spanish. And this is what the Agrupación Medioambiental Torres del Paine (known as AMA for short), is all about. The environmental conservation organization cares for the areas in and around Torres del Paine National Park. They do their best to make sure the Park isn’t loved to death by the 128,000 people visiting it each year. Ecologist and director of AMA, Juliana Torres, says, “The park is dealing with a huge number of visitors every day. Our biggest challenge is to inform visitors and make sure they realize how important it is to leave no trace, behave properly and care about the natural beauty of Torres del Paine while they’re enjoying it.” Torres plans to focus AMA’s on creating programs that educate locals and visitors about the environment and its needs. She also hopes to organize conservation projects, such as trail maintenance and recycling programs, along with supporting scientists in their investigations of the Park’s flora and fauna. Oscar Guineo, a plant researcher and park ranger since the Park’s creation in 1975, collaborates with AMA, performing investigations of vegetation in areas burned by wildfire as well as a census of the endangered huemul (Andean deer). Guineo sees AMA as a much-needed organization in Torres del Paine, where the administration’s main priorities, thus far, have been promoting recreation and tourism, not conservation. Guineo hopes AMA can help to focus people’s attention on the importance of protecting the plants and animals. “Working together with the

In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it’s delicious. There’s a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. You might even taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (Yes, there’s a lot of meat... good luck if you’re a vegetarian!) But you’ll also find good, strong drinks and a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. There are many pisco-mixed drinks out there, piscola (pisco and coke) being one of the most common. Pisco sour is the most popular pisco drink among tourists. It’s a good idea to try pisco sours at different places, because each restaurant or bar has their own touch or flavor. You can even find delicious calafate sour based on the same mix. But you can also make pisco sour yourself, in your hostel or once you get home.

Torres del Paine Refugio Information

Dates

By Christina Cooke

park administration and bringing experts in from around the world has the potential to benefit the Park tremendously. If experts from other places come and say things are bad and they need to change, they might change.” This is what volunteers from around the world do: they travel to Patagonia and help AMA achieve its environmental and conservation goals. Jacob Wagner, a 23-year-old natural resource management student from Colorado, participated in a wildfire vegetation study. He joined a brigade in fighting a wildfire near Laguna Azul, helped construct a new trail near Refugio Chileno, and delivered a presentation on Leave No Trace principles to the guides who work for the Las Torres hotel. “So many of the people who come to Torres del Paine don’t have much experience being outside,” Wagner said. “To have a group to educate visitors and be the voice saying, ‘Take care of this place,’ is crucial.” Torres hopes AMA can start working with the national corporations that run the Park as well as the various guiding companies, tour operators, and hotels that work within it. “In the end, we all have the same objectives and mission: to protect this beautiful place. We need to work together. We need commitment, and we need cooperation.” AMA is looking for volunteers with knowledge of and passion for the environment to work 2-4-week stints. They are also seeking monetary help to fund their conservation projects. For information about how to donate your time or money, check out the AMA web site at www.amatorresdelpaine.org.

From Pudeto

From Refugio Pehoe

October 1 - 15, 2008

12.00

12.30

October 16 - November 15, 2008

12.00 18.00

12.30 18.30

November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009

09.30* 12.00 18.00

10.00* 12.30 18.30

March 16 - 31, 2009

12.00 18.00

12.30 18.30

April 2009

12.00

12.30

*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2008 & 01/01/2009.

One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person

Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...

For any climbing expeditions in the Park you need to fulfill all the necessary conditions set by CONAF (Chilean National Forestry Corporation) and DIFROL (Dirrección de Fronteras y Limites del Estado). Here’s what you need to do... Get DIFROL approval. You can obtain it before you leave home, and it´s free. Check out their web site (www.difrol.cl). Download an application form. You can apply for DIFROL permission either directly to a regional government office in Chile or via the Chilean Consulate in your own country. If you arrive in Puerto Natales without DIFROL permission, visit the regional government offices in town, on Eberhard and Tomas Rogers, telephone: 411423. Once in the area in which you want to climb, you need to report to the Carabineros de Chile. In the Park, they’re at Cerro Castillo and at the Administration Centre. They’ll check your authorization and make sure you’re adequately equipped for your expedition. Then you’ll need CONAF permission, which is also free. It is granted by the Park Administrator. Make sure you take these items to the park with you... • Your DIFROL approval • Passports of every member of your group • Insurance policy details, including name and address of the insurer, policy number and a contact telephone number

Pisco Sour, your post-trail cocktail

October.08

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Kayaking. Puerto Natales kayak directory

Patagonia’s Perfect Sport.

AQUANATIVA www.aquanativapatagonia.com info@aquanativapatagonia.com Eberhard 161, Phone: 56 61 414143 BELLA PATAGONIA www.bellapatagonia.com info@bellapatagonia.com B. Arana 160, Phone: 56 61 412489 FORTALEZA EXPEDICIONES www.fortalezapatagonia.cl explore@fortalezapatagonia.cl T. Rogers 235, Phone: 56 61 613395 INDOMITA www.indomitapatagonia.com info@indomitapatagonia.com Bories 206, Phone: 56 61 414525 LA MADDERA www.lamadderaoutdoor.cl lamaddera@hotmail.com A. Prat 297, Phone: 56 61 413318 ONAS PATAGONIA www.onaspatagonia.com reservasonas@onaspatagonia.com Eberhard 599, Phone: 56 61 412034 RUTAS PATAGONIA www.rutaspatagonia.cl info@rutaspatagonia.cl B. Encalada 353, Phone: 56 61 613874 SENDERO AVENTURA www.senderoaventura.com info@senderoaventura.com T. Rogers 179, Phone: 56 61 415636 SERRANO AVENTURA www.puntaalta.cl serranoaventura@puntaalta.cl B. Encalada 244, Phone: 56 61 410115 TU TRAVESIA www.tutravesia.com info@tutravesia.com Bulnes 37, Phone: 56 61 415747

Breaking Through:

Women Outdoor Adventurers Think of one thing you enjoy doing outside. Now think about how you got into it. Most people have role models: parents, siblings, friends, teachers. Or they find role models through the media. I work for the Headlands Institute, a nonprofit environmental education organization near San Francisco, California. We try to make multicultural connections in everything we teach, using diverse environmental models, so our students can relate and be inspired. The more you see role models who you can relate to, the more you believe that you have the same potential. There are many ways that people make connections to nature. I, for example, have developed a deep connection to the natural world through outdoor adventures like climbing, surfing, and backcountry skiing. So I read magazines such as “Climbing,” “Surfing,” and “Outside.” to see what’s up with these communities and activities. It didn’t take me long to wonder why all the athletes always look the same. They’re mostly all male. It’s even harder to find female athletes of different origins, colors, abilities, ages, shapes, and sizes. Does this mean that we don’t have as many female outdoor athletes? Or do we just not see them? These publications send an important message, whether intentional or not, that these sports are inaccessible to many people, especially women. But there are lots of diverse women outdoor athletes from around the world who are waiting to have their stories be told. I’m working as that that person, the adventure photographer, who tracks down these women and shares their images and their stories. Adventurers come in two genders, in many different

By Miho Aida

colors, and from many different backgrounds. And people from all walks of life should be able to see themselves in wilderness sports. I’m hoping to demystify outdoor adventures to women and men. I came to Puerto Natales, Chile, to look for women sea kayakers. I asked around town, and heard the name, Cote Marchant, from several people. She is supposedly the only woman sea kayaking guide in town. I visited her at Indomita, the kayaking company where she works. She listened to my project goals carefully and asked, “How can I support your project?” I was soon signed up for a day trip to Fjord Eberhard to see her work for the next day. A few days later, I was on another trip, an overnighter to Glacier Balmaceda and Río Serrano. This provided me a bigger picture of what it’s like to be a kayaking guide, because there’s a whole other element of taking care of people off the water. I listened to her, as I helped her set up a camp, prepare meals, wash dishes, move heavy kayaks, and put away equipment. “It’s not that I can’t do it, I can do the same thing, but not in a same way [as men].” Her story is truly inspiring, especially for those who grew up in big cities with limited access to outdoor adventures. “I’m not blaming my parents for not giving me the opportunity,” said Cote. “If I ever have my own children, the first thing I am going to teach them is how precious it is to have this beautiful world around us. I would tell them that this is the best thing you have and one of the best teachers in life.” Cote tirelessly worked to break the mold against women in outdoor sports, while establishing her place as a sea kayaking guide at Indomita. “The ways [women] do things is different,” says Cote.“Our

thinking process and logic are different. Women can better understand how hormones and emotions affect your days, for example. This is the reason why I think it would be easier to work with women.” Not only would it make Cote’s work easier, but I also think women guides can connect with women clients at a different level, providing a safe place for them to make mistakes and challenge themselves without feeling intimidated by a male presence. (Though, of course, many of you ladies have no problem with this!) My friend, Erik, who has taught many climbing courses at NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School), once told me that whenever there was a female climbing instructor, he observed that the female students climbed better. He thinks it’s because people learn better from someone who’s like them, someone who moves, thinks, and does things similarly, and who shows you how. “I am trying to start something to motivate women to join me in the guiding community by talking to the Asociación de Guías Última Esperanza (a guide association of Última Esperanza Province). Kayaking might be difficult because it is such demanding work. You have to be certified, take care of people, always dealing with weather and lifting weight. But I want to see more women join me, and I want to create some support for those who want to try,” says Cote. Just as many pioneer outdoor athletes-women and men--have paved the road for those to follow, Cote has certainly created a path for other women to follow her here in Puerto Natales. When I come back to Puerto Natales to paddle with her in the future, I hope I’ll find her with more women in the field.

Calafate

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How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate? By bus. It takes 4.5 hours to get to Chaltén from Calafate. In winter there’s only one bus in the morning. Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales? Not really. The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the next bus to El Chaltén at 6.30 p.m. How many people live in El Chaltén? 200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capital and youngest city, founded in 1985. What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any ATMs, banks, or places to change money. Some places accept dollars or euros, but not Chilean pesos. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It is up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all common sense leave-no-trace principles. Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén? In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles. What if I don’t have lodging reservations? The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on

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How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales? It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities. What can I do in Calafate? Glaciers are the main attractions. Perito Moreno Glacier is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit six other glaciers in the area (Upsala, Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis, and Heim). How do I get to/from the Calafate airport? By the airport shuttle, which costs around $18 ARS per person. By taxi it’s $50 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops. Where is the information center in Calafate? The information center is in the bus station. Can I drink the tap water? In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people. Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed.Yay, progress! This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box. When are the stores open, anyway? In Calafate, they’re open from 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m. What’s the weather like in these parts? It’s Patagonia. The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer. How can I visit Perito Moreno Glacier? There are tours that include pick up and guide. The regular bus entrance.You can also take one of the remises, though this is a more expensive option. What about ice hikes on the glacier? There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice. To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip (from 7 a.m. till 6 p.m.) Bring your own lunch for the excursions. The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time! Who was Perito Moreno? Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.

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El Calafate

Is it safe at night? Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. Where can I camp in El Calafate? There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities, and all around ARS$18 per person. The best one is El Ovejero. Are there any cheap eating options? Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price. What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).

and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.

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questions & answers

Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets

POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)

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the same side of the village. Where can I camp in El Chaltén? In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. In the village, Madsen at the end of town right next to the Fitz Roy Trail, is free. There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers. Can I find rental equipment? Yep, from a variety of stores on the main drag. How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You at least need to stay one night there. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit

other places like Laguna del Desierto. Will my cell phone work in Chaltén? Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?

October.08

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Si tu destino es El Calafate, Did you know?

Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...

The Dynamic Duo

Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306 www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar

El Calafate

El Chaltén

With its variety of food and lodging, Calafate is a town designed for tourism. You can rent a car, buy groceries, and visit the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. For a broader view of Calafate, veer off the main road to quieter streets, such as Moyano or Gregores. You’re likely to stumble upon interesting shops, such as that of Raul Martinez and Paula Maza, who gather objects from nature to make original art (Calle Ezekial Bustillo, high season). There’s no shortage of restaurants in Calafate, but the prices are anything but cheap. La Mina is open early for breakfast until late at night. With an ecclectic mix of music and rustic old mining photos, you might find yourself lingering there long after your last sip of wine or coffee. At bustling Casablanca, sink your teeth into something healthy, like a brown rice salad with colorful veggies. Viva La Pepa boasts bright décor, fresh flowers, and a shady setting, a refreshing place to enjoy sweet or savory crepes, crisp salads, or fresh-fruit smoothies. To savor a traditional meal, visit La Tablita, serving Patagonia since 1964. Their asados can’t be beat, and they offer plenty of vegetarian options to boot. For lunches that won’t break the bank, swing by the deli at Anonimo Supermercado, which offers ready-to-go grub. Il Postino, on 9 de Julio, has meat and vegetarian empanadas as well as quiches, a great meal to split with a friend, or take with you trekking to El Chaltén. There are also a few things to do that break away from the touristy vortex of main street. Plus they’re free, or darn close to it. Laguna Nimez eco-reserve, home to local birdlife, including upland geese, black-faced ibis, and flamingo, is about six blocks north of town, across the Arroyo. There’s a small entrance fee. To get a closer gander of Lago Argentino, rent a mountain bike (hourly and daily rates available) and head north on Avenida 17 de Octubre to the Avenida de la Costanera, the coastal road. Pedal out an hour to reach Punto Soberano, where the road ends and you can walk along the shore and drink in the turquoise waters of the lake. Just southeast of town, stroll to the Cañadon del Arroyo Calafate. There’s a creek that runs into Lago Argentino, and from here you can scramble up the canyon. For so-close-yet-so-far views of the town and lake, hike up Cerro Huiliche or Cerro Calafate. Ask around for the best route up.

Funky is the best word to describe Chaltén, a small village created in 1985 and growing fast. With no less than four panaderias (bakeries), its own microbrewery, a chocolateria, two book stores, plus a host of hostels, hotels, and restaurants, Chaltén manages to retain its Wild West feel, bumming along a dusty road. This is where Los Glaciares National Park invites you to its northern sector. Geologically it’s a sister park to Torres del Paine, but Los Glaciares is very different, especially in its philosophy. The Park is yours and, while you visit, it’s your job to protect it. Park entrance and camping are free, and facilities are kept to a minimum. Basically the only services are pitstyle latrines at every campsite. Hiking options range from a one-hour hike to Los Condores overlook, to five or six days in the backcountry, passing glaciers, pristine mountain lakes, leafy lenga forests, and rock spires like Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

While in Chaltén, check these spots... Super Mercado: Catering to the road weary, this shop has camping gear, trail grub, warm clothes, books, and souvenirs. Calle Lago del Desierto near Guemes. Josh Aike Chocolatería: Established about 14 years ago, this is the first stop for many climbers celebrating or bemoaning their efforts on the towers. Calle Lago del Desierto. Capilla a los Escaladores: Small chapel built in honor of climbers who have died here. Built by Austrians, of mostly Austrian materials, in honor of Toni Egger who died descending Cerro Torre with Italian Cesare Maestri in 1959 (the disputed first ascent). Costanera Norte at Rio de las Vueltas. Hostel Rancho Grande: The first hostel in Chaltén, at the north end of the village. Showers available (check for hours and prices), a great service if you’re camping gratis at Madsen, just to the north. Marco Polo Books: Decent selection of books in Spanish, maps, and regional books in English. Calle Andreas Madsen 15. Bodegon El Chaltén: Local microbrewery and restaurant. Centrally located, a favorite.

Bariloche

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Bariloche, Argentina POPULATION: 150,000 WHAT’S GROOVY: Parque Municipal Llao Llao, eXtremo Sur (Morales 765) for kayaking, Carol Jones (M.Victoria 5600) for guided horse tours JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (ambulance)

questions & answers How did Bariloche get its name? Bariloche interestingly enough got its name from a typo. At the end of the 19th century an English pioneer of the Nahuel Huapi area, Enrique Paterson, wrote a letter to a settler of the southeast sector of Nahuel Huapi, Carlos Wiederhold Piwonka. Paterson mistakenly referred to Mr. Piwonka as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos (Don being a polite way to refer to an owner of property or a company, and San, referring to a saint.). The name not only was a compliment to Mr. Piwonka but it also stuck as the area’s name. On July 26, 1927 the name was officially decreed the title of Bariloche. When is fishing season? The Limay River, one of the largest rivers in the area, drains into Nahuel Huapi. It is the best body of water for catching big fish. This eastern flowing river is notorious for large rainbow trout in November and December and large brown trout in March and April. How can I check airline status? Go to www.aa2000.com.ar to find out if your plane is on time. Where can I get the best steak? El Boliche de Alberto is Bariloche’s “it” place for succulent steak. There are three locations, the restaurant at Bustillo kilometer 8 having the best reputation.

San Carlos de Bariloche is Argentina’s gateway to Patagonia. The city’s name originated from a typo on a letter addressing a major English settler of the area as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos. Despite the error, the name stuck.The city center is an eclectic mix of shopping, delectable chocolate stores, accommodation for every budget, lively bars and packed dance clubs. Beyond the center, you’ll catch views ranked by National Geographic as some of the ‘worlds’ best.’ Feast your eyes on the hand-carved log and stone architecture and the lake and mountains beyond it. Trailheads to the area’s main attraction, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, are easily accessible. Created in 1934, the Park boasts rugged mountains,

such as Mount Tronador, flourishing Valdivian rainforests and the wide-open, windblown steppe. From day hikes to expeditions, visitors can enjoy every style of mountaineering and trekking is available. The single tracks lead to manned huts offering beds, hot meals and, sometimes, home-brewed beers. Check with Club Andino for maps, trail conditions and other inquiries. Bariloche is also home to South America’s largest ski area, Catedral. A small village in itself, Catedral offers over 30 chair lifts, 120 kilometers (74 miles) of groomed runs and 1,200 hectares (2,965 acres) of skiable terrain. Catedral’s base area is also a summer activity center with mountain biking, hiking and outdoor concerts.

Approximately 15 minutes.

number 30, kiddy-corner from the YPF gas station has the maps and information you are looking for.

What is the usual ski season?

Can I hike year-round?

The ski season typically runs from mid-June to mid-October.

Yes, the lower elevation trails are generally free of snow all year. The higher elevation trails are available from November to May.

How far is the airport from the city center?

Where do the boat cruises leave from? From Puerto Pañuelo, 25 km west of town, across from the Llao Llao Hotel. Can I drink the water? Absolutely! It may be the best you ever tasted. How many people live here? There are between 85,000 and 150,000 full-time residents, depending on who you ask. How far is El Bolsón from here? El Bolsón is about an hour and a half south. It’s a gorgeous drive and well worth the trip if you have an extra day or two. How far is it to the Chilean border? The Chilean border is about two hours away by car, traveling through Villa La Angostura. How do I communicate with the world? Look for a locutorio, many have both internet and telephone booths available. Where can I change money? There is a casa de cambio on Avenida Mitre, one block from the Centro Civico. Where can I find a good trail map and information on the hiking trails? Club Andino, on the corner of 20 de Febrero,

What’s up with the siesta? Argentines need to catch up on their sleep. With dinner starting around 10 p.m., it is safe to say the Argentines are night owls. Stores in el centro are more apt to stay open during the day. Grocery stores and locutorios tend not to go on siesta. Normal siesta hours are from 12:30 to 4:30 (give or take a half hour). Do I need a reservation for the refugios (mountain huts)? No, but they are on a first-come, first-serve basis. Is it worth renting a car? Absolutely. Many of the treasures of the area are not accessible by bus. Also with the freedom of a car you can come and go as you like. Is there a monster en Lago Nahuel Huapi? Yes, the Lochness monster’s distant relative, Nahuelito, lives in the lake, but he is very friendly. What are they looking for at the traffic stops? We aren’t sure, but we have found that the less Spanish you speak, the better. What’s with all large groups in matching outfits? It’s the latest thing, grab a few friends, start a team and pick your own colors. No, seriously. Bariloche

is a hot spot for graduating classes to come and celebrate their new-found freedom. They come in huge groups and all wear the same rented outfits as kind of a rah-rah thing. The Brazilians do the same thing in the winter. What’s with all the Saint Bernards and their owners? These guys sell you the right to take a picture of their dog. Beware though. If you take a picture of the canine without paying for it, chaos may ensue. Where should I go to get the best sandwich? Morfy’s, side street next to the civic center. Where can I find the best ice cream? There’s a rainbow of ice cream shops in the area, but Jujua is hands down the favorite. Find them in the city center, in the kilometers as well as in El Bolsón,Villa La Angostura and San Martín. What year did the first car show up in Bariloche? The first car made its way to Bariloche in 1910. It was a Mercedes Benz and was known as the “car of the government” due to its famous passengers. A Ford T was brought in a bit later. When did the Bariloche’s chocolate fascination begin? The first chocolate store was created on the corner of Mitre and Beschtedt in 1928. The Swiss pioneer, Carlos Triberholn, is the grandfather of South America’s best chocolate.

October.08

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Bar-iloche... not Bear-iloche.

There are no bears here. By Shanie Matthews

Bariloche is a land with many faces. It is a city of 150,000. Most Argentines visit Bariloche as a rite of passage after high school graduation.The majority of its geography is occupied by protected national forest. The thriving parks are interlaced with manicured trails leading to inviting mountain huts. Bariloche’s chocolate and homemade beer is equivalent to Germany’s excellent creations. The prevalent log and stone architecture is a local handcrafted specialty. And, crazy enough, Bariloche served as refuge for both Nazi soldiers and Jewish survivors of WWII. The city is a mixture of active main streets, tasty restaurants, energetic bars, lively night clubs and every type of accommodation. Beyond el centro, the city hugs the southern coast of Lake Nahuel Huapi, dispersing out into suburban and rural villages. Although the intense beauty and worthy trails of the area are found outside of town, those looking to be close to bars and nightlife should stay in stumbling distance from the hustle and bustle of the city center. Accommodation in Bariloche ranges from international hostels in the middle of the city to the award-winning Hotel Llao Llao, outside of town. The hostel options are numerous. They range in price and cleanliness from bottom of the barrel to decent rooms. Most of the hosterias and hostels are open to longer stays, especially if only for a month or two and the time period is during slow season. The quieter times of year, known as shoulder seasons, are October to Christmas and mid-March till June. The hostels and hosterias range in price, starting around $20 a night. It is best to contact various places prior to arriving and letting them know what time period you’re thinking about. Many places offer a discount if they’re informed of your plan ahead of time. If staying in a private rental is more your cup of tea, check out www.welcomeargentina.com or www. ruta0.com with long lists of possibilities for your home away from home. Apartments and rooms in the city center can be difficult to find during high season, so plan ahead. The city’s main shopping district is located on the avenues of Bartolomé Mitre and Perito Moreno. Mitre starts off at Centro Civico, a classic log and stone building, built by the famed architect Alejandro Bustillo who constructed many of the older Bariloche buildings. The street continues beyond the main plaza, lined with shops filled with chocolate, knick knacks, sweaters,T-shirts, handicrafts and a few “fast food” dining options. Bariloche is known for its chocolate and the local favorite, Mamushka, is located on Mitre. An outdoor art and crafts fair is located in the city square, kiddycorner from Centro Civico. The fair operates yearround except for Mondays and bad weather days. One block up and parallel to Mitre is Perito Moreno and San Martín. The street calls itself by both names, the two being split by the YPF gas station and Morales street. It’s home to

Bariloche’s cathedral, built in 1946, lies just south of Mitre. Opposite the cathedral is a huge erratic rock, carried there by a glacier in the last Ice Age. the most popular tourist bar in town, Wilkinney (594 San Martín), which is also the city’s best place for Argentine folk music. You’ll also find one of Bariloche’s movie theaters here. (The Moreno branch is located left of the YPF gas station, the other is inside Shopping, the mall complex on O’Nelli). Below Mitre a block, on Juan Manuel de Rosas, is a small, indoor ice skating rink located above a popular live music venue, Puerto Rock. The rink is located directly on the shores of Huapi, offering spectacular views. Puerto Rock is slowly becoming filled with well-known Argentine musicians, with frequent weekend concerts. Bariloche also hosts several educational

and cultural museums, with a few in the city center, the kilometers, and Colonia Suiza (the little Swiss colony located off of Circuito Chico). From chocolate to Mapuche Indians, from trout to the gaucho’s life, northern Patagonia’s history is covered. The majority of the museums are small mom & pop operations. Others, like the Museo de Chocolate, are large buildings that encompass an entire factory. Dining options also abound. Some higher-end restaurants are located outside of the center, in the kilometers of Bustillo. Some of the restaurants within the tourist shopping area of Mitre are pretty basic and are not the city’s best choices. Argentina is known for its beef, and

Bariloche has one of the best parrillas (bbq restaurant) in the country: El Boliche de Alberto (Villegas 347, Ph: 43 1433).Alberto is actually a series of restaurants, both in the center and out in the kilometers. The restaurant has been around for over 30 years. The local family who owns it still interact with guests. Depending on who you ask, the parrilla located at kilometer 8 has better cuts of beef, but both serve fantastic meals. Alberto offers the full spectrum of the Argentine asado. The bife de lomo, ordered a punto, is highly recommended. The portions are healthy and served family style. During high season, expect huge lines during normal Argentine dinner hours (21:00 onward). Alberto also has a cluster of pasta restaurants in and around town. If you are looking for a romantic, unique dining experience with a little Indian fusion, try Naan (Campichuelo 568, Ph: 42 1785). Located within a private home, the family has changed their living room, with an expansive view of the city, into a gourmet dining experience with a small number of tables. The ambiance is elegant and perfect for endearing couples or double dates. Reservations required. Restaurant Virtuoso y Tarquino should be put on your list for two reasons. First, the building’s log and stone hand-craftsmanship is one of the town’s best examples of architectural art, with a hobbit-like arched doorway and a hand-carved wooden tea pot as the door handle and two trees growing through the middle of the dining area. Second, they have the most diverse and tasty salad bar in town. The menu also includes a wide range of parrilla choices, pastas and German dishes. (Located at 24 de Septiembre and Saavedra, Ph: 43 4774.) Bariloche nightlife is hopping in the city center. The combination of thousands of Argentine youth celebrating graduation and a multitude of international travelers creates a city ready to have a good time. It’s a fun and crazy mix that often leads to hilarious conversations involving multiple languages. The large dance clubs are mainly located on the road parallel to the lake, Juan Manuel de Rosas, each offering their own atmosphere. The five large discos (Grisu, Cerebral, Roket, By Pass and Genux) rotate on what age group they are hosting. The doorman will let you know if your peers are inside or congregating at the disco down the street. There are also smaller bars and nightspots, like the Roxy, Roxbury and El Sueño, on paralleling streets, España and San Martín, located one and two blocks uphill from the lake. Be ready to stay up late when partying Argentine-style. The real fun gets going around 3 a.m. and continues on way past sunrise. The northern gateway city to Argentina’s Patagonia is an active metropolis, with fun sport activities, gourmet dining, boisterous nightlife and lots of cultural options. Just don’t forget to venture beyond the cluster-zone of the city center and into the kilometers, to check out the true beauty of this region.

Bariloche

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museums

Refugio to Refugio Top 5 Nahuel Huapi treks

The frosted mug and homemade beer had to be a dream. I was six hours into the dense, flourishing forests of the Patagonian Andes. A wandering--yet perfectly manicured-- singletrack trail led me to a beautiful, rustic log cabin. It was my sanctuary, restaurant and place of entertainment for a few nights, until I decided it was time to hike on to the next Andean refuge. Welcome to the reality of the trail circuits of northern Patagonia. The trail system, created in the mid 1900s, flows through miles of untouched, virgin bamboo forest. Glaciated mountains, thick timberland and crystal clear rivers intensify the beauty of the pristine playground. The paths are interlinked by fully stocked and manned huts. Here’s the lowdown on five hikes in the virgin forests of Parque Nacional de Nahuel Huapi. 1. Refugio Frey to Refugio San Martín. The grand daddy of them all, Refugio Frey is surrounded by a surreal setting.The mountains are rugged like a baby Chamonix, the dense forest resembles Alaska, and the rock climbing and winter backcountry descents are world-class. The laborious hike to the hut can either begin by chairlift from the Catedral ski area or by trail. Either is more or less a four-hour excursion. The log and rock refuge, built in 1957, has the capacity for 40 people, including mattresses and blankets. From Frey you can continue on through thick forests to Refugio San Martín, where emerald-green Lake Jakob awaits you. The hut, built in 1952, is outfitted for 30 people. It’s a five-to-seven hour hike between the two huts, with an elevation gain of 3,000 feet. The hike out is a five-to-seven hour stroll, following the clear, blue water of Rucaco River.

about 500 vertical feet. The trail wanders through rainforest-like terrain, full of Patagonian bamboo and native cypress and coigue trees. You’ll visit soft sand beaches, which frame the emerald-green water of Lago Mascardi. The trail continues to a hidden lagoon where it is said the forests are magical. At Laguna Llum, you’ll find an abandoned hut, Refugio Vivac. From Laguna Llum, you can also continue on to Pampa Linda at the base of Mount Tronador. A tent is vital for this excursion. There are a few different ways to locate information on these and other hikes, like Club Andino Bariloche, an organization created out of the mantra to interact, enjoy and spread the knowledge of the mountains has offices throughout Argentina. They offer maps and information about the various trails, access and current conditions. The main Bariloche hub is a non-descript building located in the center of town, across the street from the Moreno YPF gas station. Look for a green sign that says ‘Información de Montaña.’ Another place for the best maps and local guide books is a little fishbowl of a place on the corner of Villegas and Moreno. There are two different book series that cover the Bariloche Lakes region: Info Trekking de la Patagonia and Guía Sendas y Bosques.The Nahuel Huapi editions of both books are must-haves. Hiking through the world’s longest and second highest mountain range is a life changing way to get in touch with nature. Bariloche gives the

adventurous many choices to lose themselves in the antique forests and towering granite mountains. And with so many hiking choices, you’re sure to find your own piece of paradise.

Did You Know? El Bolsón Arts and Crafts Fair: La Feria El Bolsón is a special trip that all visitors to the region should experience. The town, inundated by hippies in the ‘60s, packs quite the flower-power punch. The craft fair really brings folks out of the woodwork. At an elevation of about 1,000 feet above and tucked between the Andes to the west and some decently sized mountains to the east, El Bolsón has its own microclimate. The weather is perfect for the cultivation of fine fruits, and it’s a great getaway from Bariloche when it rains. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from around 11 a.m.-4 p.m., they host a big craft fair in the central plaza. In addition to all sorts of fruit products, there are many talented local artists making wood and leather products as well as fine jewelry. Great food and even better locally brewed beer add to the mix. On peak days in the summer, there can be upwards of 300 different vendors.

2. Refugio San Martín to Laguna Negra. If your wanderlust is still strong, then continue to Refugio Italia, which is based out of Laguna Negra.This is a more difficult hike, requiring compass work and agility. It takes about 6-9 hours to connect the two huts. You’ll venture through dense old-growth woods and the open steppe offering clear views of the mountains and class-three rock climbing. From Refugio Italia it’s another five hours of easy hiking back to civilization. 3. Refugio Lopez to Laguna Negra. This popular trailhead tends to be busy at the entrance and near the small kiosco, which incidentally has great choripan (bread with chorizo). The trail starts with a steep climb offering panoramic views of the Lakes District. Walk three hours to arrive to a pink-stucco, sixty-person refuge. From Refugio Lopez it is a five-to-seven-hour hike of medium difficulty to Refugio Italia, with an elevation gain of 2,500 feet. 4. Laguna Negra to Pampa Linda. Another option from Refugio Italia is to continue on toward the glaciated faces of Mount Tronador. This is considered one of the world’s prime hiking trails, set within the gigantic Andes and close Tronador’s immense ice fields. The excursion is about 3-5 days, and it ends in Tronador National Park at Pampa Linda. There are campsites along the way and a hotel in Pampa Linda. To attempt this journey, you should have camping and trekking experience and know how to use a compass. 5. Lago Mascardi to Laguna Llum.

This easy, two-to-three-hour hike climbs

Bariloche’s old growth forests

“Francisco P. Moreno” Museum of Patagonia Opened by the National Parks service in 1940, the Patagonia museum is located on the east side of the Centro Cívico. Its name is after the Andean and Patagonian explorer Moreno, who donated much of the land that is now Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. The areas natural sciences, ethnography, prehistory, and regional and local history are covered in the museum. There is also a library and bookstore. Address: Centro Cívico. Telephone: (02944) 42 2309 Monday to Saturday 10:00-13:00 Tuesday to Friday 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-19:00 “Rosendo Pascual” Geological and Paleontological Museum Location: Bosque Petrificado 367,Villa Los Coihues, Lago Gutierrez, Bariloche. Telephone: (02944) 46 7578 Everyday 09:30-12:30 & 15:00-20:00 Otto Meiling Museum Location: Cerro Otto Telephone: (02944) 42 2266 Every day from 10:00-12:00 & 15:00-20:00 Salon Cultural de Usos Mutiples y Paseo de los Artesanos (Muti-use cultural hall and crafts display) Display and sale of local crafts Location: Moreno and Villegas streets. Monday to Friday: 09:00-17:00; Saturday 10:0013:00 & 17:00-20:00; Sunday afternoons. Casa Museo de los Viejos Colonos (The house museum of the old settlers) Location: Colonia Suiza Telephone: (02944) 42 3379 / 44 8330 Wednesday from 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Cerro Otto Art Gallery Display of Michelangelo replicas (original size) Location: Mt Otto Telephone: (02944) 44 1035 Every day 10:00-18:30 Indoor Feria Artesanal Municipal (local art and craft fair) Display and sale of local crafts Address: Moreno and Villegas streets. Open every day, 10:00-20:00 La Casa del Acuarista (aquarium house) 50 aquariums with Patagonian fish, trout, ornamental and rare species. Address: Gallardo and Rolando street, 1° floor. Telephone: (02944) 42 3077 / 15 604346 Monday to Friday 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-21:00 Saturday 17:00-20:00. Centro de Salmonicultura (Salmon Farming Center) Road to Mt Catedral (Kilometer 11) Telephone: (02944) 46 1021 Monday to Friday 11:00-16:00 Fenoglio Sacifia Museo de Chocolate Bustillo km 1 Telephone: (02944) 43 9204 Factory hours: Monday-Thursday 11:00-15:00. Museum and chocolate shop hours: every day 11:00-19:30.

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Pucón, Chile back riding or mountain biking, you’ll get your fill of thrills. Visit the Mapuche Museum on Caupolicán and learn about the culture of the indigenuos people. Take a cruise on Villarrica Lake aboard a steam-powered vessel, or just relax on one of the many black sand beaches. Shop for locally made handicrafts, and dine in one of more than 50 local restaurants, before ending the day with a long soak in one of the geothermal pools. Pucón also has a great nightlife and is relatively crime-free. The well-lit streets beckon night owls to hit the town after dark to dance the night away, or try their luck at the craps tables in the casino.

When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano? All year round, but winter is the best time if you want smaller crowds.

In 1984, but that was nothing major. The time before that was 1974, and 24 people were killed.

There are maps in town for just a few bucks. Check the corner of O’Higgins and Ansorena.

Just a few blocks from the center, you can soak up all the UV you want, just don’t forget the SPF!

Do I need a permit to camp in the Park?

Yep, it’s about $8 bucks. No, there’s no camping fee, but it’s restricted around the volcano. Remember, it is an active volcano! If you use a guide, tranportation is included, but taxis can get you there, too. It’s about $5 USD to go by taxi to the park entrance.

Plenty, with some great views of the volcano, just ask around about where to go. Good People, Handmade Organic Food and Real Coffee

Where is the best white water rafting?

organic food, wine and real italian coffee O’Higgins 311, Local 5 Pucón • trawen@gmail.com

El Barroso Fresia 135a Pucon, Chile Wood Fire Grilled Steaks Chilean Wines

Iglesia Jesus de Nazaret

It all depends on the weather and amount of rainfall, but generally speaking, the season is from late September to early April. For the upper Trancura, you’ll have to wait till around December. And remember during the height of the season (about December-February), the rapids can get pretty crowded. What else can I do around here? Aside from visiting the Volcano and rafting, you can enjoy the amazing scenery on horseback, paragliding, or parachuting. Fly fishing is also very popular here, and you can book boat fishing tours. Keep in mind that all fishing is catch and release.

Eschoroenle L.A. Ulloa

Cemetario

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There are three runs, the most exciting being the upper Río Trancura, with class III and IV rapids, depending on the time of the season. The lower Trancura is tamer but still class II-III in most places. You can also do a longer trip of a couple days on Bío Bío through various companies in town. When’s the best time to go rafting?

Hospital San Francisco

Anscrena

In case of a backcountry emergency, contact the Carbiñeros de Chile. They will organize the 50 or more guides, who live in Pucón and are always ready to lend a hand to their fellow outdoor enthusiasts.

Uruguay

Fresia

What is the winter like?

Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area?

Yep! Enjoy the experience.

Brasil

Most outfitters have everything you need for the activity you want to participate in, and the gear is usually included.

Av Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins

l Co

Can I rent gear in town?

Are there any good day hikes in the area?

Museo Mapuce

General Basilio Unutia

Is transportation to the trailheads available?

Can I drink the water in the Park without treating it?

Super chill. It’s a great scene for winter sports with fewer crowds, and it’s such an incredible experience to ski or board on an active volcano.

Geronimo de Alderete Capitania de Puerto

Lincoyan

Absolutely, there are numerous bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.

Iglesia Parroquial Santa Cruz

Caupolican

Is there a night life in Pucón?

Pedro de Valdivia

Palguin

Is there an entrance fee to the Park?

There is a nine-hole course on the peninsula, and you can rent a set of clubs in town.

Calle Holzapiel

Can I get a good map of the trails in Villarrica National Park?

Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?

Is there a golf course nearby?

When was the last time it erupted?

Ge iss

Pucón has a small hospital with an X-ray machine, and there are a few dentists to choose from. Anything serious is treated in Temuco, about an hour and a half away by car.

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L a Po za

What if I need a doctor or dentist?

rto

You can’t pitch a cat without hitting a hostel in Pucón.

e nd

ob e

Are there hostels close to the bus station?

G ya Pla

L a g o Vi l l a r r i c a

You bet, it’s smoking 24-7, not unlike some people we know, but that is a good thing. It means the volcano is venting. If it stops smoking, then it’s time to start worrying.

ta ne ra R

Mapuche, and they are very proud of their heritage. They really gave the Spanish a run for their money back in the day.

Is the volcano active?

Co s

What are the local indigenous people called?

Pucon Centro

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Colo Colo

questions & answers

Pucón, a quaint town built in the style of a German village, has something for everyone, from the thrill seeking adrenaline junkie to the couple looking for a romantic getaway. Along with things to see and do, you’ll find accommodation for all budgets, but hop online and book early, because most places fill up fast during the summer months. Pucón explodes with life during the summer months (OctoberMarch), when sunny days, green forests and blue skies, along with the alwaysactive Villarrica Volcano lure the masses. Whether you are looking for a guided ascent of the volcano, trekking in the Villarrica National Park, rafting or kayaking the Class III and IV rapids of the Trancura River, or an afternoon horse-

Av Las Araucarias

POPULATION: 21,000 FOUNDED: 1883 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hotsprings, lots to choose from on the main drag. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Arauco

Ramon Guinez

Monasterio Santa Clara

Who should I be tipping here? Your waiter would appreciate a 10% tip, if you’re happy with the service. The kid who bags your groceries at the market works solely on tips. And don’t forget to tip your guide if you have enjoyed a particularly good excursion. Most taxis would be happy to accept any small change left over from the transaction as well. Where is the closest airport? During January and February, Lan and Sky Airlines fly direct to the Pucón airport. Booking online has been problematic in the past, especially with a foreign credit card.You’re better off booking your flight locally at one of the carriers’ offices.

Alternatively, you can fly to and from the international airport in Temuco, about two hours away from Pucón, by bus. What options are there for public transport? Buses between the nearby town of Villarrica and Pucón run every 15 minutes through Buses Jac. Buses from Puerto Montt run four times a day, and from Temuco, every half hour. Taxis and colectivos are available all over town. But, if you want to get off the beaten path or have a time constraint and want to see some more in less time, rent a car. There are a couple of car rental options on Colo Colo Street.You can also rent a bike for about 10 bucks a day.

Pucón

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Chile’s street smarts As you navigate the various Chilean cities with your trusty street maps, you may wonder why most of the street names are surnames and who these people were? Past Chilean presidents inhabit some of the names, but the streets also honor people and places with great significance in the area’s historic development. Here are a few common street names... • LADRILLEROS. Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor who, in 1557, was sent by the Spanish government to find a sea exit from the Magellan Straits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food, energy and the loss of many men, he decided that the voyage into the body of water that surrounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope in reaching their goal. (Hence the name Última Esperanza, or Last Hope. Incidentally the Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years! • O´HIGGINS. The Liberator Bernardo O’Higgins, together with José de San Martín, crossed from Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army and finally drove out the Spanish. He restored Chile’s independence and became Chile’s first President in 1818. • BLANCO ENCALADA. The first Commander of the Chilean Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land of his Chilean mother as his home. A great political figure, he was President of the Republic for a mere two months in 1826. • BULNES. Manuel Bulnes’ military victory over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in 1839, secured his personal victory of becoming President of the Republic (1841-1851). • ARTURO PRATT. A valiant naval captain who died at the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (The Huascar), accompanied by only one sergeant. • ESMERALDA. The name of Captain Arturo Pratt’s ship in the Battle of Iquique. • TOMAS ROGERS. Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Captain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glacier. On arrival, he named it Francisco Gomaz in honor of the expedition. Many years later the Argentineans renamed it in honor of Perito Francisco Moreno, an

T r af k i n tü

A M a p u c h e Tra d ition The Mapuche people are the indigenous inhabitants of central and southern Chile and southern Argentina. They are known for their closeness to the land and its resources. The very meaning of Mapuche is “people of the land,” which really says a lot about who they are and what they believe in. They are proud of their traditions, many of which they still practice today. There is one tradition, trafkintü, however that stands out among the others for its simple beauty and usefulness. Trafkintü was borne from necessity in the Mapuche culture and basically means to share or exchange. This can mean to exchange news, ideas, knowledge, animals or anything else of use. Each spring a ceremony is held to give thanks to the sun, the earth and water for the life they nourish on this planet. The Mapuche community get together and share what seeds and plants they have with others, down to advice on how to care for the plants, so that they may grow and benefit the community as a whole. Imagine, if you will, a world where sharing and cooperation was the norm rather than

by Thomas S Daly

Argentine hydrographer. • BAQUEDANO. General Manuel Baquedano defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles (March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and later captured Lima (Jan 1881). • CHORRILLOS. The site of the first battle in the wave to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881). • BALMACEDA. José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal anticlerical group, prevented Argentina from entering the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide reform program, which led to civil war. He later fled to Argentina where he committed suicide. • EBERHARD. Captain Hermann Eberhard was an explorer and first settler of the Province of Última Esperanza in Chile. He named the hill that overlooks Puerto Natales after his first daughter, Dorotea. Lago Sofía is named after his second daughter. In 1892, it was actually one of his workers who discovered the famous Milodon Cave, where the remains of various prehistoric animals were found, including sabertoothed tigers, camels, deer and of course the giant sloth milodon. Today, the Eberhard family still lives on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo, just outside Puerto Natales. • KRUGER. Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area in the name of Argentina. Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentineans left without fuss. Due to this event the Chilean government populated Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future attempts by the Argentine navy. • PILOTO PARDO. Captain Luis Pardo was a sailor who risked his life, and those of his men, to rescue the 22 castaways from the Endurance (Shackleton Expedition 1915-16). His tugboat “The Yelcho,” had no double hull, no heating, no electric light and no radio. Despite the courageous acts of Pardo and his crew, Shackleton only mentioned Pardo’s name once in his 386-page book-- in the preface! • PEDRO MONTT. Son of the President Manuel Montt Towers. He himself became President of the Republic between 1906-1910.

by Anthony Riggs

competing with one another to get ahead. Sure, great things have come about from competition and the drive to make a better mouse trap. Perhaps, though, we can find a healthy balance between the two. Rather than buying more and more items we might only use once, borrow from your neighbor and vice versa. Rather than competing with the mythical Joneses, share what you have with them. You may just find that the quality of life improves a bit for both parties. We could learn a lot from a culture that was considered by the conquering Spanish to be uncivilized and lacking in refinement. While visiting Pucón and enjoying all that this area has to offer, take a little time to learn about the original inhabitants of this enchanting part of Chile. Talk to the local artisans selling their handcrafts in and around town. If you get to know a little about them, you may find you share a lot in common with them. Visit the Mapuche Museum located in the Hotel Araucanian on the road entering town from Villarica, Caupolicán 243. It all starts with you.

Pl anning m e als f or the t rail

Roc kfall, S c ree & Bou lder f iel ds

Eating properly while on the trail will not only keep your energy up, but also keep the team happy and postive. Planning the amounts and types of food is one of the biggest challenges of any backcountry trip. If you’re traveling in a group, find out if anybody has any food restrictions (vegetarians, food allergies?). Discuss the menu before you head to the store. Make a day-by-day list of meals and snacks, complete with ingredients, for the exact amount of people in your group. Breakdown how many scoops of oatmeal you’ll need, the number of dry soup packets and and chocolate bars. Try not to plan for too much food. If you come home with enough grub to last you another day or two, it means you carried an extra 1-2 kilos in your pack. It’s best to shoot for 3,000 calories per day. Light eaters can get away with less (maybe 2,500) where a big eater might want to bump it up to around 3,500. Dehydrated meals are all the rave, but they often taste like cardboard. Sure, they might save some weight in your pack, but they take away some of the fun of preparing meals at camp. If you can cook it at home, there is a way to cook it on the trail. Prepping spices and cut veggies at home also makes packing and consumption easier. After the big meal shop, remove all packaging and excess garbage that you won’t need on the trail. This step will make more space in your pack and leave you with less to carry out later. Repack all your food into doubled and labeled, resealable plastic bags. Consider it a fun challenge to eat well and pack light. When packing your tools for cooking, try to not bring any piece of gear that only serves one purpose. Don’t bring a cutting board, for example. Something like the lid to your cooking pot can double as a cutting surface.

Trekking and climbing through boulder fields, talus and scree means dealing with possible rockfall or other hazards. In such areas, make intentional, confident steps, and keep your balance and agility in tact. Always be aware of others trekking beneath you, in the fall line. Walk side by side, instead of in a single file line, to reduce the chances of knocking a rock loose and hitting a trekker below. In confined areas or gullies, where spreading out isn’t possible, walk directly behind the person in front of you, so loose rocks don’t have the time or distance to build speed before they hit someone. Traveling up gulleys one-by-one to safety zones, out of the way of possible rockfall, is another option. Should you ever rap a rock loose, of any size, yell “ROCK!” so others can take cover or move out of the way. Discuss this system with your group in advance. Typically, people’s first reaction to “ROCK!” is to raise their heads up to see what’s going on. A good way to get your teeth knocked out. The proper response is to look Hawaii and burrow your head downward, using your backpack to protect your back, neck and head. Climb with your eyes. Take moments to pause and plan your next step, before you take it. Use you hands for balance. Don’t be afraid to work your way up a boulder field scrambling with all four limbs. Walk on the tops of large, stable boulders, when you can. It’s easier on the knees and gives you the best vantage point to plan your next steps. Do not walk in loose sand under boulders. Doing so can shift the balance of the huge rocks and cause them to roll onto you.

soc k s & s hoe s Before undertaking a multi-day trek consider this: new socks, old shoes. It’s not a good time to see if those new shoes work. SOCKS: It’s amazing how important sock selection is when engaged in an long day hike or multi-day trek. The coarse threads of hiking socks eventually begin to dig into your skin causing discomfort and blisters. Avoid this by wearing a thin nylon liner sock as a first layer. Any pair of light socks will do in a pinch. Bring an extra pair for replacement half way. There’s something refreshing about putting on a pair of socks half-way through a killer hike. Waterproof socks can do more damage than good. These unbreathable socks will hold all the sweat and moisture against your skin, giving you blisters and hot spots. SHOES: The success and enjoyment of a serious trek is directly related to your shoe selection. Choose light, flexible shoes over stiff, heavy hiking boots. Every pound of shoe is the equivalent to carrying 7-9 pounds on your back. Minimize shoe weight by selecting a cross-trainer with ankle support, a trail-running shoe, or one of the lighter hiking shoes that are readily available. When you go shopping for “hiking” shoes, you’ll likely be encouraged to buy something with “great ankle support” and a steel shank so you won’t “feel the rocks.” This makes sense if you’re planning to carry a 60-pound pack and trekking through scree (small rocks) or other rugged terrain. However, if you’re staying on established trails, lighter, more flexible shoes are fine.

fe minine hy giene On the trail it’s important to have a plan for that special time of the month. A change in environment, physical exercise and the stresses attached to these things can sometimes lead to changes in a woman’s cycle, including early or late cycle start, cessation or a heavier flow. While there is no permanent worry in either case, it’s a good idea to be prepared. Experienced female guides typically carry extra sanitary material, just in case. In general carrying one-third more tampons or pads is a safe bet, even if you’re not expecting your cycle to come while you’re in the woods. For disposal, the same rules of waste apply: Pack it in. Pack it out. Do not bury tampons or pads! Aside from the fact that they take a long time to biodegrade, they also present a fire hazard if they become unburied. A doubled, resealable plastic bag works well. Place this bag system into a small stuff sack to keep it private. If you’re worried about smell, try crushing a regular aspirin and sprinkling it into the bag. As far as peeing in the woods is concerned, men may not need to worry about toilet paper, but women take such things into consideration. Carrying a constant supply of toilet paper, always ready and handy, can be inconvenient. Plus, it’s more weight to carry. Consider reusing a bandana or special cloth as a pee rag. It may sound gross, but when it will dry out when you lay it in the sun or tie to the back of your rucksack on a warm day. The rag will be sterilized and dry enough to reuse until you get it to camp for a wash.

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Puerto Varas, Chile

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In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.

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How can I get around without a car?

Maipo 1010, Puerto Varas, Chile Phone: 65-232880 www.interpatagonia.com/carlaminte

There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all.

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Private bathrooms German breakfast Cable TV Central heating WiFi Man spricht deutsch

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What kind of wildlife can I see in the park?

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What else is there to do? There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla.

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In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are

Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few.

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Will I have any problems with drinking water or food?

Are there any good day hikes in the area?

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The lake is Llanquihue, and it is pronounced as “Yawn-key-way.”

That is Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m).

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How do you pronounce the name of the lake?

Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout.

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In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather.

How is the fishing in this area?

What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?

Los Tiloa

How should I dress for the climate?

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There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people.

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Where can I stay without breaking the bank?

There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season. Not to mention, the casino where you will have a chance to part with all your travel money, or if you’re lucky, win enough to pay for the whole trip.

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If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD. In Puerto Montt, you’ll catch one of the buses to Puerto Varas.

What’s the nightlife like?

How do I get to Puerto Varas?

Puerto Varas

not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.

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iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.

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questions & answers

Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the

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POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

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Is it easy to change foreign currency?

Can I take a tour by boat?

Yes, most banks will change dollars and/or euros and there are many exchange shops called “cambios” where you can change your foreign currency.

Sure, you can visit an island nature preserve in the area of Caleta de Angelmo. Just ask around near the Navimag dock for times and prices.

Can I use my travelers checks or ATM card?

You’ll find a variety of restaurants in the area of Caleta de Angelmo with great seafood selections at reasonable prices.

You bet. Travelers checks are a good way to go and can be cashed at all the banks. ATM cards are another option, since most banks have a machine on the Cirrus network and make the currency exchange for you automatically. What times of the day are the shops and restaurants open? Most shops are open Monday-Friday from 09:00 to 13:30 and then close for lunch until about 15:00, and then remain open again until around 19:00. Saturdays, from 09:00 to 13:00. Banks are open Monday-Friday, 09:00 to 14:00.

Where can I get the best seafood?

Is it customary to tip? In Chile, in general, it is customary to tip 10% of the total of the bill at restaurants. When using a taxi it is okay to leave the small change. What about calling abroad or home?

Is Puerto Montt safe?

Where can I buy handicrafts?

There are call centers throughout the city where they have internet and the city has a public phone network that enables you to make local and international phone calls with coins and special phone cards. Also, most hotels, for a surcharge, will let you make international calls.

For the most part, Pto. Montt is a quiet city with few incidents of urban violence, but be smart and leave the bling-bling at home and use the buddy system when heading out to enjoy the night life.

About 2 km. from the city center, you will find Caleta de Angelmo, home to a variety of handmade items, including wool sweaters, alpaca clothing, and leather items.

Who do I contact in case of an emergency? You can find the police station at Guillermo Gallardo 519, or dial 133. To call an ambulance, dial 131.

Puerto Montt

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Photos and text by Ernesto Palm Del Curto

En bicicleta por Castro y Parque Nacional Chiloé Chiloé es uno de los lugares más interesantes para visitar en la Región de Los Lagos, por sus bellos paisajes, coloridas y pintorescas ciudades, y especialmente por la fuerza y singularidad de su cultura, única por el carácter de isla, que de alguna manera la mantiene alejada de influencias foráneas. En esta ocasión, la recomendación es visitar la Isla en bicicleta y recorrer Castro, una de las ciudades más antiguas de Chile, y el Parque Nacional Chiloé, ubicado en el sector de Cucao, a 60 kilómetros de la ciudad, en la costa abierta hacia el Océano Pacífico. El viaje que relatamos acá tiene una duración de 3 días, y comienza en Puerto Varas, punto de partida y organización de todas las actividades interesantes de la región. En la mañana del primer día, cargamos las bicicletas en nuestro transporte, y nos vamos directo a Castro, para evitar pedalear en la primera parte del camino, que tiene bastante tráfico, camiones principalmente. Una vez en la isla, luego de cruzar el canal de Chacao en un ferry de 45 minutos de duración, la opción es ir a Castro y recorrer en las bicicletas los mejores lugares de la ciudad, como los mercados, museos, palafitos, su iglesia y disfrutar de los sabores de la isla en alguna de las cocinerías del lugar. Para el alojamiento, la recomendación es el nuevo Hostal Palafito, ubicado en la zona de

Gamboa. Funciona en un palafito tradicional, el cual fue restaurado y adecuado para recibir gente, lo que representa una experiencia inolvidable, ya que se recrea y se vive una costumbre ancestral de este lugar. Excelente vista de la bahía. Para el día siguiente, nos subimos a la bicicleta temprano en la mañana y tomamos dirección sur por la ruta 5. A la salida de Castro, se puede visitar la iglesia de Nercón. A los 20 kilómetros y a la altura del pueblo de Chonchi, está el desvío hacia Cucao y el Océano Pacífico. En el camino, los lagos Hullinco y Cucao entregan un paisaje de ensueño. Luego de 38 kilómetros, llegamos a la entrada al Parque Nacional, ubicada junto al mar. La majestuosidad del lugar nos invita a quedarnos, y la opción para pasar la noche es el Parador Darwin, con un excelente servicio y una cocina para no olvidar. También hay opción de camping en los sectores del Parque Chanquin y ColeCole. Para la mañana del tercer y último día de este viaje, visitamos los principales senderos y playas del Parque, las que aun mantienen la imagen del Chiloé profundo, con bosques antiguos, gran cantidad de avifauna y la cultura chilota siempre presente en cada detalle. Si el tiempo lo permite, está la posibilidad de visitar la comunidad indígena de Quilque, ubicada en este sector y a la que podemos acceder previa consulta con los loncos o jefes de

la comunidad. En este lugar se puede realizar una caminata por una ruta completamente nueva del Parque, a la que llegamos luego de cruzar el Lago Cucao. Finalmente y luego de disfrutar los últimos momentos en el Parque Nacional, está la opción de regresar a Puerto Varas ese mismo día, o si prefieres puedes continuar en Chiloé y seguir conociendo los secretos y mitos de la Isla. FIND MORE THAN A GOOD HOSTEL!

Great location - tips & travel info Airport Service – Internet WI-FI - Kitchen Facilities

Don´t forget to book in advance ! * highly recommended during High Season * Phone/fax: 65-232044 Mobile: (9)-76486787 info@compassdelsur.cl www.compassdelsur.cl Klenner 467 Puerto Varas – Lake District

Santiago

Ristorante Italiano

Italian cuisine at the bottom of the world. www.andeshostel.com (56-2) 632 9990 - 632 9173

Puerto Montt, Chile Calle Rengifo 815 • (65) 282812 Puerto Varas, Chile Av. Costanera, Puerto Chico • (65) 310583

www.dalessandro.cl

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Cave paintings near Puerto Natales Etno Natural Park

The new Patagonian Etnonatural Park recently opened to the public. Its main attraction is the sculptural representation of the indigenous Magellan people set against beautiful natural scenes. The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45 minutes and consists of nine displays in which you can see depictions of the first inhabitants of these lands: The Kaweskar, Yamanas, Aonikenk and Selknam. In additon, there is a small cave inside the park, which was once used as a refuge by hunters. On its walls you can see cave paintings of simple shapes but with great symbolic meaning and power. Many of these are geometrical outlines, animal tracks, human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animal figures. Along the path, you can feel the secrets of the spirits in the air, and among the ancient trees of the wooded areas images of the steppe hunters of Tierra del Fuego come to mind, nomadic people and the austral rivers. The Etnonatural Park is outside of Puerto Natales near the Milodon cave at Km 23. The park is open everyday during the week and costs $3.000 per person.

Sought after Isla Navarino info by Marieke den Nijs

Finding tourist information on Chile’s most Southern town, Puerto Williams, is not an easy job. Especially information on the Internet is scarce.This is a pity, since Puerto Williams and its surroundings have much to offer for nature-loving tourists. Enviu, a Chilean/Dutch NGO, has currently been working on improving the information supply. Through a project directed toward local entrepreneurs in the tourism sector, Enviu has facilitated the creation

of various web sites. During a two-month period Enviu carried out practical workshops, in which the entrepreneurs learned how to make and maintain a website. The result of this project is that recently, in addition to the websites that yet existed, four new websites have been put online. If interested, check out these new web sites and learn more about the various tourism services available in Puerto Williams... • www.turismoshila.com - guiding & tours • www.refugioelpadrino.com - Accomodation • www.hostalpusaki.com - Accomodation • www.albatrospub.com - Food For more information on the work of Enviu, visit www.enviu.org.

What Patagonia Tastes Like By Sandra Pendelin

Traveling trough Patagonia often includes strong winds, rain, and frosty temperatures. But there is something to warm and comfort you. Good cazuela soup. Chileans love this meal, which belongs to their cocina criolla (tradicional cuisine). It’s a perfect combination of rice, potatoes, seasonal vegetables, including pumkin, corn, and carrots as well as big chunks of meat, like chicken or hen. Cazuela has its origin in a typical Spanish meal, the olla podrida. It was first served on Chilean territory in 1826 to the Spanish admiral Blanco Encalada. Other typical Chilean main dishes include pastel de choclo (corn pie with mincemeat, chicken, and egg), empanadas (with mincemeat, cheese, or seafood pies), charcicán (a Chilean stew of mincemeat and vegetables), and humitas con ensalada chilena (flavored mashed corn served in its own leaf with a tomato-onion salad). To sate the sweet tooth, there are also very lovely desserts, such as mote con huesillos (sweet, canned peaches with wheat) or semola con salsa de vino tinto (semolina stewed in a red wine sauce). ¡Provecho!

The view of Los Cuernos from the view point, above Campamento Italiano. Painting by Julieta Canepa

Puma Lottery by Marjan Alkema

There are people that have spent years working in the park and never saw a puma. But then there are also those day trippers who take a strolls on Lago Grey’s beach, and suddenly come eye to eye with a puma. But what to do if you actually get to see a puma? 1. Most important, don’t run! The puma might think you’re a juicy (and easy to catch) boxed lunch to go. With a puma, the slogan “act like a victim, become a victim,” holds true. 2. Make yourself look bigger and more dangerous than the puma in front of you. The puma will leave if it’s not sure it’s going to win. One small, even non-lethal wound to a puma may inhibit its ability to hunt properly. Make a lot of noise, too. Use jackets or bags (or whatever else you may think of at this moment) to hold over your head for appearance’s sake. 3. And last of all, but not least important… smile. (This may be difficult depending on your proximity to the puma.) Take a moment to realize how lucky you really are for winning the lottery.

Torres del Paine spotlight Free campsite Italiano Campamento Italiano got its name long ago from an Italian climbing expedition to climb the Cuernos. In 1980, after being only a climber’s campsite for years, Italiano became an official free CONAF campsite. In 2002 the first park rangers where stationed there, mostly to prevent backpackers from starting forest fires. They guarded the area, but without facilities, they lived in tents. In 2004, they built a guard hut there; all materials arrived carried by humans. The number of people spending the night at Italiano has been growing ever since. In high season, you’ll find up to 100 tents per night. Using this campsite is a great way to visit Valle del Frances with fewer time constraints. Waking up in the morning in Italiano provides ample time to see the Valley and move on to your next camp before sunset. For a long time the only facilities in Italiano are restrooms. The campsite is situated in a Lenga beech tree forest, offering trekkers protection from wind and rain. Valle del Frances tends to attract bad weather. The disagreeable weather along with the growing number of people staying at Italiano has put a new project in motion. Most recently, they’ve built a hut to protect campers while cooking and relaxing, in out of the storm.