Torres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino
Volume 2 • Issue 3 • Dec 2006 • patagoniablacksheep.com cover image by Diego Araya ©
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Organizing Travels in Patagonia
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Kayaking in Patagonia - Puerto Natales Kayaking Directory
- 100 Years Cerro Castillo - Torres del Paine Q&A´s
RECYCLE THIS PAPER - PASS IT ON! ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE
Editors Corner
- Rustyn Mesdag
Working with travellers and back-
Pehoe gives you a breath taking half-way view
packers here in Puerto Natales Chile, we meet
of the glacier and you understand where you’re
a lot of people that are doing some sort of leg
headed. And nothing in the park compares to
of the gringo trail. This trail leads all over the
the moment you arrive at the top of the pass,
world, all over South America and, of course,
coming from Perros, and the view hits you like
all over Patagonia. Crossing back and forth
a baseball bat. Where in one moment the reality
between Chile and Argintina, for sight seeing, is
of the sheer size of the ice field comes clear.
not uncommon.
Every year I count the days until I can stand on
that spot again.
We are therefore posed with the ques-
tion, quite often, about the differences between
Glacier Grey in Torres del Paine and Perito
is usually the second question. Again, because
Moreno Glacier, over the border and to the
Perito Moreno is so active, the ice hikes there
north, in Argentina. Our answer is pretty simple
are limited to less active sections of the glacier.
really.
On Glacier Grey, the ice hikes allow for a
Perito Moreno is a super active
Getting on the glaciers for an ice hike
broader range of activities, like ice cave explo-
glacier. The first time I saw one of those ice
ration and some vertical ice climbing. Its a very
chunks, the size of a building, fall off and into
fun trip and the guides are great.
the water, I was jumping up and down, seri-
So, good luck on your glacier hunt, I hope this
ously. But I was standing on a platform with
helps.
300 other people, one hundred meters from 6 full size buses and a parking lot. Coming and
Park Efforts Continue
going from PM is very easy to do. But not
Torres del Paine Bus Schedules Via Paine / Andescape - Eberhard 599 - Ph 412877 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
Trip 1
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Trip 2
Trip 1
Trip 2
Puerto Natales
7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.00
Laguna Amarga
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Gomez -Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.15
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Natales - Torres del Paine
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Andescape Ph 412877
7.30
Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine - Natales (Laguna Amarga)
15.00
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales
7.30
10.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
This months article about the Wilderness First
Laguna Amarga
9.45
12.30
16.30
Pudeto
13.30
exactly a wilderness experience.
Aid Course that was given by CONAF, to park
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
14.30
employess, had got people talking. It is one of
Administration
11.45
18.00
Glacier Grey is a different story. Grey
is a much less active glacier, but anyone who
a new moves forward by the park to improve
stands at the campground, had to put forth a
services and make for a safer park experience.
large effort to get there. And you feel a bit more
If heading into Torres del Paine, you will also
connected to the trekkers around you, who went
notice a great, safer new bridge between Dick-
through the same effoerts. Trekking up from
son and Perros. This bridge is a nice upgrade with a beautiful new path through the forest. It was a nice touch. The trail between camping Pehoe and camping Grey had some work done on it as well. Some nice steps were carved in, making sections
* Two hour ride for 22.000clp *
much easier for trekkers.
November Fund Raiser In the V2, I2, Nov issue of the Black Sheep, we ran an article called “Cooking up a Miracle”. In a nutshell, it was a fund raiser for a local family that ran into some of lifes surpises and
Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (Administration) (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park) JB Calafate (Laguna Amarga) El 57.30 hrs TDP L. Amarga Ph 412824 Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto (Pudeto) Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin (Administration)
Reservations (+56 61)412221 info@estanciatravel.com www.estanciatravel.com
Or ask at your hotel or travel agent for details
***Accommodation Available***
were succesful in raising 110.000clp ($210 USD). A definite help and very appreciated. The Black Sheep gives the worlds biggest thanks to everyone who donated cash and took the time to follow through with their good intentions. It will be remembered for a very long time.
Torres del Paine Refugio Information Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
$8.50 $13.50 $15.00 $59.00
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
25.00 7.00 7.50 13.000 5.50
Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
$8.00 $12.00 $14.00 $63.00
20.00
13.45 19.30
22.00
13.00 215.00 hrs 30 3 hrs 15 314.00 hrs 45 13.00
Buses Fernandez Ph 411111 E. Ramírez 399
Buses Fernandez Ph. 242313 Arm. Sanhueza 745
Bus Pacheco Ph 414513 Baquedano 500 Bus Sur Ph 411859 Baquedano 668
7.15 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 7.30 10.00 13.30 18.00 7.00 15.00
Bus Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900 Bus Sur Ph. 244464 José Menéndez 552
8.00 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 8.30 14.00 18.30 19.30 15.00 19.00
These prices are reflected in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.
Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos albergue@lastorres.com +56-61 360360
Andescape - Dickson, Lago Grey andescape@terra.cl +56-61 412592
17.30
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
OUT of Patagonia and maybe participate in or a few postcards, travellers in Puerto Natales
19.00
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
ellers to not only take souvenirs and memories
Horse riding trips from 2 hours up to 10 days
(Administration) Puerto Natales 17.00
18.30
14.00
Gomez (Laguna Amarga) 15.00 to all the Remember: Hostería7.30 Las Torres operates a transfer that connects Ph 415700 buses that arrive at and leave from Laguna Amarga (cost is $2 USD). (Pudeto) 13.45
unexpected turns. There was a request for trav-
leaving something behind. Sacrificing a beer
(Pudeto)
Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
33.00 7.00 7.00 11.000 3.50
Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain Lodge loreto.c@verticepatagonia.cl +56-61 412742 Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board
$9.00 $12.00 $15.00 $63.00
Dorm bed Camping Sleepingbag 2 person Tent Mattress
35.00 7.00 4.00 14.00 3.00
Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine Questions & Answers How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 - 2.5 hrs. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 - 8am. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do, it depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3.500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas. At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am. What about mid day? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, exept for the supermarkets. Where can I buy camping food in town? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located 1 block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes. How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? In summer, not freezing, but it can still get close sometimes. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Is there a bus that goes to Calafate directly from Torres del Paine? Yes, it picks up at 5pm at Laguna Amarga. Call Calafate Travel for that transfer. It costs 20.000 from the park and from Pto. Natales it costs 10.000. What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question.������������ But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person, one way, 17.000 round trip. Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios. Can I cook in the refugios? December 2006
In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits). How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter. Are there backpackers here in the winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast. What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket!? It depends on where you are. Sometimes its fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ideas when possible, but there is a lot of Patagonia out there that has no public buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town. Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone wobbles right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town. Why do I get given a piece of little receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously. Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with food in the tent, with you.
Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang. Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from TdP? No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know.
Extras... A free information talk is given at Erratic Rock everyday at 10:30am & 3:pm -about the Park, logistics, food prep, programs, clothing and any questions you might have... Arriving late? Equipment emergency? The gear shop, La Maddera at Bulnes 495, is open until 10pm and will except emergency phone calls at all hours if you have a real problem. 09-4184100 or 412591
www.patagoniablacksheep.com Published by Southern Cross Ltda. The Black Sheep Organizing Chilean Patagonia Patagonia, Chile ph +56•61•415749 Production Editor • Design: Rustyn Mesdag Business Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar Irribarra Contributers: Diego Araya, Sebastian Borgwardt, Isabel Chamorro, Marjan Alkema Consultant: bill penhollow
The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned rag, inspired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile. A warm, woolly thanks go out to all black sheep who helped make this paper possible. The opinions within the Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of some of the advertisers.
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Kayaking.
Patagonias perfect sport. Puerto Natales Local Kayak Directory in Alphabetical Order AQUANATIVA
ONAS PATAGONIA
www.aquanativapatagonia.com info@aquanativapatagonia.com Adress: Eberhard 161 Pto Natales Phone: (56-61) 415749
www.onaspatagonia.com reservasonas@onaspatagonia.com adress Eberhard 599 Pto Natales Phone (56-61) 412034
RUTAS PATAGONIA
BELLA PATAGONIA
RestoBar Eberhard 169 Puerto Natales, Chile
www.rutaspatagonia.cl info@rutaspatagonia.cl
www.bellapatagonia.com info@bellapatagonia.com
Lote B Rio Serrano, Torres del Paine phone (56-61) 415885
Barros Arana 160 Pto. Natales Phone (56-61) 412489
FORTALEZA EXPEDICIONES
www.fortalezapatagonia.cl explore@fortalezapatagonia.cl Adress: Tomás Rogers 235 Pto Natales Phone: (56-61) 410595
SENDERO AVENTURA
www.senderoaventura.com info@senderoaventura.com Adress: Tomás Rogers 179 Phone: (56-61) 415636
INDOMITA
Nueva Imagen Gymnasium & Spa Hand & Foot Therapies machine & free weights sauna sun bed Massage room Chocolate Therapy
www.indomitapatagonia.com info@indomitapatagonia.com Adress: Bories 206. Puerto Natales Phone: (56-61-414525)
www.lamadderaoutdoor.cl lamaddera@hotmail.com Adress: Arturo Prat 297 . Pto Natales Phone (56-61) 413318
Address: Armando Sanhueza 555 Phone: (56-61) 222219 - 221009 Cell Ph: 09 91229555 - 09 84394174 Punta Arenas, Chile info@downtownhostel.com www.downtownhostel.cl
N e a r S h o p p i n g & S e r v i ce s
Gear.
Mountain House
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
www.puntaalta.cl serranoaventura@puntaalta.cl Adress: Blanco Encalada 244 Phone: (56-61) 410115
LA MADDERA
D ow n Tow n H o s t e l
Eusebio Lillo 1417 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 412052
SERRANO AVENTURA
Address: Bories 655 L-2 Phone: (56-61) 222219 - cell: 09 91229555 Punta Arenas, Chile info@jeansport.cl
patagoni
TU TRAVESIA www.tutravesia.com info@tutravesia.com adress : Bulnes 37 Pto Natales Phone: (56-61) 415747
a
lternativa
Everything in Patagonia. Trekking Kayaking Penguins Horses Navigation Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. +56-61 225889 www.patagonialternativa.com
CHEZ MOI... CHEZ VOUS...
)041&%"+& (-03*"
Mejicana 1174
Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile
.FKJDBOB 1VOUB "SFOBT 1BUBHPOJB $IJMF 'POP DFM XXX MPEHJOHNFKJDBOB N DPN
Experience Chile... •Located across from Plaza de Armas•
Specializing in...
traditional Chilean lamb asados, grilled meats, seafood and shellfish.
Carlos Bories 430 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 410999
KAWESKAR
Residencial
Bernardita
HOSTEL
Regular dorms & Private rooms with breakfast, hot showers, phone, private bathroom and cable TV - Tourist Infomation - Torres del Paine & surrounding areas
...and the backpackers shall inherit the earth...
O´Higgins 765 - ph & fax (56-61) 411162 Puerto Natales, Chile email itat@mixmail.com
Blanco Encalada 754 · 414553 Puerto Nartales, Chile
Puma Lottery
Tips...
by Marjan Alkema
1. Most important; don’t run!! The puma might think you’re a juicy and easy to catch box lunch on the run. With a puma, the slogan holds true - “Act like a victim, become a victim.” 2. Make yourself look bigger and more dangerous than the puma in front of you. The puma will leave if it’s not sure it’s going to win. One small, even non-lethal, wound to a Puma may inhibit its ability to hunt properly. This could endanger its life, so it normally would play it safe. Make yourself look bigger than normal, make a lot of noise, use jackets or a backpack cover (or whatever else you may think of at this moment of truth) to hold over your head for appearances sake. 3. And last of all, not less important….smile (this may be difficult based on your proximity to the puma) and take a moment to realize how lucky you really are…
Eberhard 599 -Puerto Natales - fono 412592
andescorp@gmail.com
Punta Arenas Info Penguins
Museums
On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the
Seno Otway
trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience.
Daily 16:00 pm 4.5hr trip (1.15hr to go, 2hr there, 1.5hr back) Transfer: 10.000 Entrance: 4.000
Museo Salesiano Av. Bulnes 374 South Patagonian culture, history and nature. $2.000 Tue - Sun am: 10:00 - 12:30 Tue - Sun pm:15.00-18.00
While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time.
Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday 16:00 p.m. 5hr trip (2hr to go, 1hr there, 2hr back) Tour: 20.000 (entrance fee included)
Trail Etiquette
There are people that have spent years working in the park and never saw a puma in their lives. But then there are also those day trippers, taking a stroll on Lago Grey’s beach, suddenly eye to eye with a puma. But…what to do when you win the puma lottery??
INGENIERIA Y CONSTRUCCIONES
Sticking to the trails is important. Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or a puddle only widens the trail or creates a second, or sometimes third, trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Torres del Paine or on the Dientes Circuit (Patagonia). Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.
Isla Magdalena
For daily departures by zodiac boat to Isla Magdalena contact: Solo Expeditions, José Nogeira 1255 Turismo Aonikenk, Magallanes 619
Museo Regional Magallanes 949, next to the plaza ph (61) 244216 The former mansion of Mauricio Braun, containing regional history. Tue – Sat: $1.000, Sun: free Tue - Sat:10:30 – 17:00 Sun: 10:30 - 14:00 Museo Naval y Marítimo Cnr Pedro Montt + O´Higgins ph (61) 205479 Shipwrecks, cartography, meteorology, local and national maritime history. Tue - Sat am: 9:30 - 12:30 Tue - Sat pm:14:00 - 17:00
Get a sweet piece of Ice in Patagonia.
th t wi n u o Disc heep 10% lack S n! B po Cou
Departing from the Glacier Grey Operations Hut in Torres del Paine - Daily Ice Hikes - 1, 2 & 3 Day Seminars - 9 Day Expedition Primers
icehike@planetaglaciar.com December 2006
www.erratic rock.com
Sheep Shearing
Discounts for Travellers The Black Sheep would like to thank all the local businesses that make being a traveller a little easier.
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on Daily Ice Hikes on Glacier Grey. Valid for 2006-07 season. Can be redeemed at Eberhard 302, Baquedano 719 in Puerto Natales or at the Operations Hut at Glacier Grey in Torres del Paine National Park.
A. Prat 337 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412869
vilLaundry SerLaundry Service
Redeemable for 10% off - Valid until Dec 30, 2006
10% off Any regular meal O´Higgins 623 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 56-61 410060
erratic rock Baquedano 719 Pto Natales www.erraticrock.com
1/2 off first night with Oregon ID.
for Travellers
10% off
for laundry drop off before 10am
EMPORIO de la Pampa
Eberhard 226 -Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile
This coupon redeemable is for a 10% discount on a regional cheese plate with the purchase of wine for two.
10% off
penguin tour ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281 www.soloexpediciones.com enterance & bus not included
10% off any cafetería purchase
PUNTA ARENAS ERRAZURIZ 891 FONO: 240214
Rustike 10% off any purchase Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile
10% off penguin tour
Applies to Seno Otway & Zodiac to Isla Magdalena
Phone / Fax 56•61•415285 Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile
10% off any purchase This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on chocolate, coffee, ice cream & brownies.
Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61 415749 This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a 1 hour massage. Valid season 2006-07.
10% off Trekkers Massage
ph +56-61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto. Natales
50% off backpackers yoga session Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales, chile
www.susalatino.com
5% off any purchase
Magallanes 619 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. 221982
expires Jan 1, 2007
tel: 413829
Indian Adventure Travel
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
10% off 2 Hr. Ride
Raices Patagonicas Restaurant
10% OFF Glacier Grey Ice Hike
PUERTO NATALES BARROS ARANA 299 FONO: 413622
(+56 61)412221 info@estanciatravel.com www.estanciatravel.com
15% off rentals 10% off other services Bulnes 469 Pto Natales, Chile +56-61 415753 www.indianadventure.cl
ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281 www.soloexpediciones.com
10% off horse rides
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
5% off any purchase
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
GOLDEN DRAGON 5% off your meal Bulnes 439 - Puerto Natales M anuel Señoret 908 - Punta Arenas
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
10% off any program www.aquanativapatagonia.co,
Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile ph. 415749
Natales in an historic nutshell
Since November Natales has a new alternative for spending half a free day… a city tour that’s all about this little town’s history. Black Sheep decided to check it out. It turned out to be a lot of fun… a nice mixture of history, site seeing, beautiful landscapes and a refreshing tour in Last Hope Sound by Zodiac.
In pouring rain our tour started in Natales’ historic museum (Bulnes 285). Roberto our guide, explained to us all about how the first expeditions to Patagonia at times got lost for months in the fjords, and how the original inhabitants (like the Kawashkar) didn’t seem to mind walking around naked in the snow (with photos to prove it), and about the big companies (owned by a handful of families) turned their businesses into gold here in Patagonia.
After the museum, the weather had luckily cleared up as we drove around town to see
some real life examples of what we had heard in the museum. The next part of the tour is a visit to Estancia Puerto Consuelo (Port Consolation) where first colonist Eberhard settled down at the end of the nineteenth century. It’s a beautiful route that gives you spectacular views of the Paine massif. It’s amazing how a 10 minute drive from Natales can get you to a place that has such a far away feel. After getting into the Zodiac, the views of the surrounding mountains are even more impressive. You visit Puerto Condor (once an important export for exporting wool) and Isla de los Muertos (Island of the Death), the first graveyard in the area. Although the remains are not that impressive, you do get an idea of how it must have been living there totally isolated with only the wind to rely on. By this time we were pretty hungry and all too happy to have the opportunity to sit down in the Estancia’s quincho, where a good, filling three course lunch was waiting for us. With the sun burned on our cheeks we were ready to go back to the hussle and bussle of Natales. The city tour leaves twice a day (9-14 and 16-21) and costs 20.000 pesos per person. For the lunch at Estancia Puerto Consuelo you pay an additional 8.000. To book or make reservations contact Onas (Blanco Encalada 211, Ph. 412034).
Ukika, Casa de Mujer by Diego Araya
by Marjan Alkema
Aún recuerdo cuando era chica y vivíamos en Isla Meskar. Veníamos al pueblo a remo y montábamos nuestro campamento a las orillas del rio Ukika, como siempre lo ha hecho mi gente, lo que de ida eran algunos días, de vuelta podía tomarnos meses..- Julia Gonzalez Calderón no es la ultima mujer yagan, aunque tampoco lo fue su madre, Ursula. Quizás aún no ha nacido siquiera, pienso en mi interior mientras estas mujeres sigan intentando cultivar sus tradiciones. Mientras les importe cada día más sus orígenes y costumbres. Mientras sean fieles a su sangre y logren vivir estos tiempos modernos sin perder su herencia nómade. Tal vez si visitan el Kipa Akar (Casa de mujer) en Ukika podrán ver el rostro de Julia, o tal vez incluso el de la abuela Cristina; pero seguramente también verán el rostro de sus nietas llenas de sonrisa jugando en el columpio a un costado del puente Ukika.
Art Gallery & Jewelry
56 61 411461
Eberhard 318 Puerto Natales
Comfortable rooms, Continental breakfast, private bathrooms, 24 hour reception, cable tv, multilingual, telephone
Hostal Francis Drake Phone & Fax +56-61 411553 contact@hostalfrancisdrake.com Phillipi 383 Pto Natales, Chile
Hotel Posada Tres Pasos Your country hotel... Tel:(56) (2) 1969630 reservas@hotel3pasos.cl
Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile
Resto-Bar & Cafe
Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales
The penguin connection. Call 221982
December 2006
Downtown Punta Arenas · Magallanes 619 · www.aonikenk.com
New Horse & Yoga Program Hits Puerto Natales Full day horse ride with an hours yoga class for riders and non-riders
Tasty Trekking Camping Cuisine
This programme is run from the Estancia Puerto Consuelo – the first cattle ranch founded in the region. The morning will be spent on horse, travelling around the fjord to the peninsula and villa Luisa where you will stop for a yoga class before lunch. The surrounding views on this trip are some of the most breathtaking in the area. We will ride through ancient Lenga woods and through mountain passes. On clear days we have the privileged viewing of the massif in the national park Torres del Paine. The yoga class will be adapted to suit any level, but some previous experience would be preferred.
Bored with dried pasta meals and 5-minute rice dinners that seem to come in huge variety, but they all taste the same? Don’t feel like setting up your stove every night or looking for an alternative lunch? Ready for a healthy, lightweight breakfast suggestion? And, what will help you to survive the cold Patagonian nights in a tent? Here are some recipes to spice up your trip.
Bill’s Trekkers Breaky Group size: Minimum 4, Maximum 8 Equipment used: We use comfy traditional Chilean and Western saddles. Both offer a secure and deep seat for first time riders. Departure: Every Thursday - $50,000 per person Contact: info@estanciatravel.com
Only 5 km from Punta Arenas… Lodging, regional foods and programs in a traditional Patagonian style.
ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281 www.soloexpediciones.net
Solo Expediciones -Isla Magdalena -Isla Marta -Cabo Froward -Whale Watching -Fishing
José Nogueira 1255 Punta Arenas ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281 www.soloexpediciones.net www.soloexpediciones.com www.patagoniablacksheep.com
O
N A US
ALIS
Trips to:
If your not sure what a Nalgene bottle is, just find yourself a Yank, they will probably have one. These Lexan bottles are quickly becoming industry standard for trekkers and climbers. They are bullet proof, won´t leak and are guaranteed for life. These little bottles are a must while trekking. The large mouth type is makes for easier filling at a water source and for harvesting snow in an alpine environment, but a little more difficult to drink out of while walking. Here are a few good tricks... 1. While making your nightly boil for dinner on the trail, boil an extra liter to make your Nalgene a great hot water bottle for your sleeping bag. This will raise the average temperture of your bag and will do wonders for sore trekking feet. Throw your wet socks or gloves down there with the hot water bottle and it will dry everything like a oven in your sleeping bag. 2. Want eggs on the trail. Break a few eggs into a Nalgene for omelettes on that first morning out. This is a mess-free way of creating a breakfast upgrade. 3. Using a large mouth Nalgene to carry and protect dry & powdered goods is another great use. Whether its oatmeal or powdered soup mix for the long haul, a Nalgene can give you a hard, waterproof case.
TR
Boat through the Straits...
Nalgene Bottles
PATAG
Estancia Rió de los Ciervos
ph (+56 61)412221
Trail Tips...
Hand Crafts
Solo Expediciones
www.estanciatravel.com
LAPISLAZULI JEWELERY
HAND CRAFTS
DECORATIONS
Carlos Bories 278 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 8 4649562 pedroblu@hotmail.com
S urvival O utdoor S tore Gore-Tex Sleepingbags Tents Soft shells Socks T-shirts Underwear Fleece Official Torres del Paine® dealer Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl
For a ‘W’ trek breakfast for two you will need: -1 box of instant oat meal (Quaker, Avena Instantanea) -1 can of Svelty powdered milk (don’t go for the cheaper one, your breakfast will be better if you just go for Svelty) -1 bag of Brown Sugar (you can get it at the pharmacy) Put oat meal in a re-sealable Ziploc bag and add milk and sugar to taste. In the morning all you have to do is put your cup into the Ziploc bag, add some boiling water, and… ready to go for it another day. For some variation, take a bag of jam or some dried fruit to flavor up your breaky.
Wrap it up
For this alternative lunch or cold dinner for two, you’ll need: -1 pack of integral Wraps (you can get them at Vergel, Blanco Encalada) -250 grams of creamcheese -Aji Pebre (in those little bottles, you can find it next to the ketchup) -1 pack of Serrano ham -a handful of white raisins (pasas blancas) -a handful of fresh coriander (cilantro) Mix the cream cheese with some Aji Pebre to taste and spread it out on the wraps. Divide the Serrano ham between the wraps, put chopped raisins on top of it and finish it off with coriander. Provecho!
Candola
If you’re in your tent with all your layers on and it really doesn’t look like you’re going to be warm tonight, consider walking up to the Refugio and buying a box of wine. For this typical Chilean recipe you’ll need: -a box of wine -sugar -skin of half an orange -a couple of sticks of cinnamon -and… to get out of that sleeping bag to put up your stove Mix it all in a pot, add sugar to taste and heat it up till you can just drink it, but.. the alcohol is still in there! Sleep well!!!
Kayaking in Paradise In January 2006 I met two Germans who traveled from Hamburg to Puerto Natales with the only intention- kayaking from Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales and then continuing towards the ´Canal de las Montañas’ in the National reserve Alacalufes. The ´Canal de las Montañas’ or the ´Cordillera Sarmiento’ was a place that I wanted to explore in kayak for years, but for one reason or another have not had the opportunity. Now, the opportunity arose and I was able to join my two friends on the last part of their expedition. We started by studying the navigation maps of the area to determine possible camping spots and safe areas in case of bad weather or of health problems. Then, after speaking to local fishermen who frequently travel to the canal area to fish or to extract mussels, we were given an idea of what the climate was like within the 66km long canal. The outlook was not best. The canal is constantly beaten by strong Northeasterly winds and also has the ideal conditions for the fearsome ‘catabatico’ or ‘williwab’ winds to form. This phenomenon is present in few places on the planet, and Patagonia is one of them. The presence of high mountains – 2150 meters – and glaciers, in a canal which is long and narrow, makes air masses descend at high speed down the slopes of the cliffs; and when this cold air meets the surface of the water which is of a higher temperature, sudden explosions occur, which form winds which can reach speeds of more
than 60 mph. We knew at this point, we had to be prepared for everything. Now that we had all the information we could find, we contacted a group of local fishermen to agree a fair price to transport us the 30 miles that separate Puerto Natales from the opening of the Canal de las Montañas. Finally, and with the authority of the armada, on 16 January 2006 we were moored at the jetty in Puerto Natales, on board a wooden boat which was seven meters in length. Our three covered-up kayaks seemed to envy their ‘older brother’ and seemed anxious to get onto the water for once and for all. After three hours of navigation, a sudden noise startled us. The boat engine had broken and was not repairable. After waiting a while, we noticed a boat in the distance which was heading in our direction. One flare was enough of a signal for the other boat to come to our help, and without much discussion, they agreed to take us to Morla Vicuña, at the opening of the canal. Also, as they had better radio systems than the ones we had, they were able to get help to our friends which we left there. Two hours later, the fishing boat left us on a beautiful sandy beach. We were finally alone. The adventure was about to begin. We carried our kayaks with all the necessary things to survive the four or five days to follow. It was a clear day with winds of 12 knots – a perfect day to start our trip.
Encuentro con Krishna Alan Wiuker Filosofía Vedanta, Yoga y Astrología
tiempo de Swami Vishnu-devananda, quien
Védica
trajo estas enseñanzas a Occidente desde
6 al 8 de diciembre Punta Arenas- 8 al 13
la India a fines de los años 50 y fundó los
de diciembre Puerto Natales
Centros Internacionales de Yoga Sivananda. Krishna estudia y ejecuta la música clásica
Los Vedas, antiguas escrituras sagradas
de la India y el Nada Yoga, o Yoga del
de la India, son el origen de la Filosofía
sonido, y se ha especializado en el Tabla y
Vedanta. “Veda” significa conocimiento
la percusión.
y “anta”, fin. Vedanta es la filosofía que
Los invitamos a compartir este nuevo
conduce al fin último del conocimiento
encuentro con Krishna en Magallanes desde
espiritual. Krishna practica, estudia y
el miércoles 6 al 13 de diciembre, con tall-
enseña estas disciplinas hace más de 20
eres teóricos y prácticos en Punta Arenas y
años. Fue discípulo directo por largo
Puerto Natales.
Programa de Actividades – Puerto Natales
Viernes 8 de diciembre: 19:30 Charla gratuita: “Yoga, Karma y Astrología Védica”
Sábado 9: 11:00 Taller: “Yoga y Meditación” 19:30 Taller: “Asanas” (posturas de Yoga)
Domingo 10: 10:30 Taller: “Mitología y simbología hindú” 15:00 Paseo a Villa Luisa 16:00 Taller: “Yoga de Patanjali” (Ashtanga Yoga)
Martes 12: 19:30 ) Taller: “Vida después de la vida”
Miércoles 13: 10:30 Taller: “El pensamiento y su poder” Consultas de cartas astrales, pedir hora para entrevista personal de 45 minutos. Llevar fecha y hora exactas de nacimiento. Informaciones: teléfonos 413829 (Natales) – 239810 (P. Arenas) susalatino@yahoo.com - bhargaviyoga@yahoo.com.br Más información en su página web: www.9graha.com December 2006
by Hermann Klasen A group of sea lions welcomed us to the entrance of the canal by splashing around us for a few minutes. Their presence relaxed us for a moment, but we then noticed that the wind was growing stronger. We were on the east side of the canal, where the wind hit us head-on, making it impossible for us to make any progress. We knew we had to change to the west side of the canal where the mountains would shelter us from the strong winds. After seven hours of paddling, we found a beach which appeared to be good to spend the night on. At 3am, the tide rose and forced us to get out of our tents. This was the canal’s way of showing us just how much more powerful it was than us. A bonfire was enough to warm us up and to make some coffee. At 8am we were paddling once again and ready to face our second part of the journey. When kayaking, the time seems to fly, you find yourself absorbed with the surroundings and the only sound that can be heard is the paddle going in and out of the water. Without realizing, we got to the first glacier which descends from the Cordillera Sarmiento. The enormous ice flows around us were just a peek for what we were to see later on in the journey. Five hours later and we arrived at our second camp - a wonderful spot at the foot of the Bernal glacier. The wind became calmer. The stars and a beautiful moon were witnesses of some of the most unforgettable bonfire of my life. We went to sleep, and dreamt about the third part of our journey. We woke and were greeted by something very special in Patagonia – it was a spectacular day with no wind and not a cloud in the sky to cover the sun’s rays. After a good breakfast, we got onto our kayaks and paddled a further two hours to the Hermann glacier, the most beautiful one on the Cordillera Sarmiento. The water level at the entrance is very low, making it a place almost only accessible by kayak. Thousands of cormorants which were nesting on the cliffs welcomed us as we made our way towards the glacier. Once we were there, we spent a long while in silence. We had the unique opportunity to witness one of the most beautiful, wild and pure surroundings that this planet has to offer. Our efforts for coming to Canal de las Montañas seemed nothing compared to this beautiful gift we had there right in front of us. The ice and the water embraced the landscape around us. What we saw that day will stay will stay forever saved in our minds. A gift from nature, a gift from Patagonia to three kayakers who had the strength to go into one of the wildest areas on this planet. The next day at 2pm, we were picked up by a tourist catamaran that would take us back to Puerto Natales. Under the shelter of the boat, the three of us, in silence and surrounded by rowdy tourists, were planning our next kayak adventure. We agreed to meet again in 2008 in Puerto Natales to explore a new part of this magical Patagonia.
massage, mud therapy & more...
10% Off Branch Office:
Albergue Torre Central 2006 - 07 season
Rustike ames ture fr s · Pic rt · Crafts p m a les · L s rs · A Cand se · Mirro andicraft Incen ed glass · H Stain
Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile
Private & group yoga sessions daily
Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales tel: 413829
www.susalatino.com
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Daily Rock Climbs in Torres Two Generations of Rock Climbing
Looking for something extra while in Torres del Paine? A new company has
begun daily outdoor rock climbing programs out of Hosteria las Torres. Puma
Explorations is offering two departure times daily through April 2007. From beginner to advanced, these daily programs offer a great taste of rock climbing in Patagonia. The cost of these rock seminars cost 19.000clp ($38USD). Aside from being easily accessible from Hosteria & Refugio Torres, these program are all inclusive; ropes, climbing shoes, helmets, saftey equipment and instruction from the experienced and ultra friendly Puma crew. The founder of Puma Exploration is second generation Torres climber, Tomas Marusic L’huissier. Tomas grew up climbing with his father, Pepe (Jose Marusic Fernandez), a local legend in Torres del Paine. A day out with the Puma crew
will open your eyes to the history of climbing in the region as well as getting you that much better prepared for your next rock adventure.
FIND THIS PREMIUM BREW AT
Mesita Grande Pizzeria . El Living . Indigo . Cormoran de las Rocas
Puerto Natales, Chile The beer 100% natural microbrewed in Puerto Natales with the dedication of people enchanted by the magic of this pristine patagonia. Try this different beer, full of flavor, body and great bouquet, with high quality ingredients and process, which soon you will be able to meet at the Brewery on the way to Dumestre, 3 km from town, on the wonderful seaside road to the south.” “Unica cerveza artesanal 100 % natural producida en Puerto Natales, con la dedicación de personas que fueron encantadas por la magia de esta Patagonia prístina. Prueba esta cerveza diferente, rica en sabor, cuerpo y aroma, con ingredientes y un proceso de la más alta calidad, el cual podrás conocer prontamente en la Cervería camino a Dumestre, a 3 km de la ciudad, en el maravillodo camino costero al sur”
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Puma Exploraciones Torres del Paine Patagonia-Chile Fono 360 360
www.pumaexploraciones.com puma@lastorres.com
Daily Departures AM 9:00 to 13:00 PM 15:00 to 19:00
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“Carménère?..” - Chilean Wine Guide Carménère is on its way to become Chile’s emblematic and differentiating vine stock, just like the Malbec in Argentina, the Tannet in Uruguay and the Tempranillo in Spain. This vine stock has its origins in Burdeos, France and is used as part of the blend for the great Bordeles wines. In 1850 a ‘filoxera’ crisis, an insect that eats up the roots of the grapevine, was responsible for the disappearance of the Carménère stock in Europe. Because of good luck though, during the second half of the nineteenth century, a visionary Chilean wine farmer began to substitute the traditional Spanish wine stocks with varieties of French ones like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cot, Merlot, Pinot and Carménère, that was actually mistaken for Merlot and therefore planted together. Almost three centuries went by before its identification in Chile. In 1993 Mr. Jean Michel Boursiquot, specialist in describing and identifying different wine, together with the Chilean wine specialist Philippo Pszcolkowski, discovered that the Merlot in the wines of Carmen de Alto, was in reality Carménère… And that’s where the history starts being rewritten. It was concluded that apparently the grape had escaped the filoxera plague undamaged and arrived in Chile together with its vine stocks in the nineteenth century. Carménère has a rapid turnover and is an accessible and easy drinkable wine, liked by men as well as women and especially suitable for someone that’s a ‘red wine starter’. Thanks to its freshness and abundant taste, it is
suggested with mild meat dishes with vegetables and fresh herbs. It combines especially well with lamb, poultry like chicken and duck, all types of cheese, tuna or whatever type of pasta and sauce. Recommended by ‘Emporio de la Pampa’ Cheese & Wine
1. Terrunyo Carmenere 2003 Valle Cachapoal
2. Adobe (vino organico) Reserva Carmenere 2004 Valle de Colchagua
relaxation specialists... Massages Relaxation Therapies Natural Bar Outdoor Center Hand Made Crafts
Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61 415749
3. Casa Silva Reserva Carmenere 2005 Valle Colchagua
4. Casa Silva Doña Dominga Reserva Carmenere 2004 Valle Colchagua
5. Casa Silva Gran Reserva Carmenere 2005 Valle Colchagua
Agrupación Medio Ambiental Torres del Paine AMA Uno de los destinos más visitados en Chile por el turista extranjero es sin duda Torres del Paine. Un lugar donde los paisajes nunca se repiten, donde confluyen todas las nacionalidades, creencias, idiomas y costumbres. Donde se observan cientos de animales a la orilla del camino, donde se elevan desde las profundidades grandes formaciones de granito y roca sedimentaria, se encuentra esta reserva de la biosfera. Miles de personas llegan cada día para hacer del silbido del viento su única compañía en el siempre constante caminar de quienes siguen sus senderos. Aquí, enclavado a los pies de las torres nace y se desarrolla una agrupación de voluntarios motivados por la naturaleza, la conservación del medioambiente y la educación hacia todos quienes de algún modo se relacionan con este lugar. Historia Comenzaba el mes de noviembre, hacen ya poco más de dos años, cuando algunos trabajadores de Fantástico Sur y Hostería Las Torres se reúnen en torno a un objetivo: formar la Agrupación Medio Ambiental Torres del Paine. La idea central era el Desarrollo, Investigación y Fomento de la Cultura Ambiental. El primer proyecto de la agrupación fueron los trabajos de mantención de senderos y conservación. Con aportes de empresas privadas de la región se distribuye dentro de Torres del Paine, Puerto Natales y Punta Arenas material informativo con el objetivo de incentivar tanto en turistas como en personas residentes en el lugar, una conducta responsable respecto al medioambiente. Poco después se implementa el programa de Minimización de Impacto Humano orientado a la recolección y reciclaje de residuos generados por los visitantes, además de la programación rutinaria de esfuerzos de recolección de botellas de vidrio, latas y baterías. Con el correr de los días se comienzan a reclutar voluntarios para colaborar en el trabajo de los senderos y también en la conformación de las áreas de recuperación, que cierran el paso de peatones y caballos para permitir que la capa vegetal impactada se recupere. Durante el incendio forestal de febrero de 2005, AMA Torres del Paine agrupó alrededor de 140 voluntarios, entre turistas chilenos y extranjeros, personal de empresas regionales, habitantes de las ciudades de Puerto Natales y Punta Arenas, además de personal y equipos aportado por empresas de turismo, Estancias particulares de la región como Estancia Familia Alvarez y Familia Hernández. Presente Distintas iniciativas se han llevado a cabo bajo la coordinación de AMA. Hoy en día sus líneas principales se orientan hacia la December 2006
by Claudia Paz Silva
Investigación y la Educación. El Liceo Juan Bautista Contradí, Colegio Charles Darwin, Universidad de Magallanes, INACAP, Liceo Politécnico de Puerto Natales, Liceo Politécnico de Punta Arenas, entre otros nos han visitado. A la fecha más de 160 alumnos han participado de jornadas acompañados por profesores en la cuales recibieron charlas educativas orientadas a entregar información de biodiversidad, hidrografía, manejo de desechos y reciclaje. Hace un año se creo la primera brigada de Combate de Incendios Forestales compuesta por voluntarios en Torres del Paine, los cuales en su momento recibieron capacitación teórica y practica. Los próximos meses se realizarán otras dos jornadas de capacitación para estos voluntarios y para aquellos que quieran formar parte de la iniciativa. Se han llevado a cabo también ciclos de Educación Ambiental, hasta la fecha llevamos 15 charlas dictadas por diversos científicos sobre biodiversidad, fauna, humedales y huemules orientadas a turistas y trabajadores. Este año logramos entregar 1000 sacos con botellas de vidrio a COANIQUEM (Institución que se preocupa de ayudar a niños quemados) para ser recicladas y obtener dinero para financiar su causa. Pero la línea más importante que atraviesa esta agrupación sigue siendo el voluntariado. Todas las actividades que se han llevado a cabo no habrían sido posibles sin la colaboración del equipo humano que día a día trabaja para desarrollar nuevos proyectos. Este año ha estado marcado por la presencia de estudiantes universitarios que desarrollan investigaciones. Una investigación que llega a sus etapas finales es aquella que realiza Alejandra Mora, Licenciada en Geografía de la Universidad de Chile, quien realiza su tesis de grado en una propuesta para el trazado de Senderos. Esta joven de 22 años llegó al Parque por iniciativa propia y a la agrupación a través de su interés en encontrar una entidad que se interesara en un estudio como el de ella. Así hoy ella ha logrado hacer una propuesta concreta para mejorar los senderos que existen entre el albergue Torres a El Chileno, Los Cuernos y Serón. Ahora resta la tarea de AMA de buscar las mejores alternativas para la implementación de este estudio. Otra investigación que ha tenido lugar al alero de la Agrupación es la recolección de muestra de aguas en el sector. Dicho estudio fue realizado por una estudiante de biología de la Pontificia Universidad Católica de Valparaíso y hoy forma parte de la Descripción zooplanctónica cualitativa en Lagos y Humedales de la
Estancia Cerro Paine, que será presentado a comienzos de 2007. Hoy en día se finaliza el desarrollo de una memoria de título sobre energías renovables no convencionales como una manera de producir electricidad para los albergues. El pasado 28 de octubre en Hostería Las Torres, se llevó a cabo la inauguración conjunta del Centro y el Sendero Interpretativo entregados a AMA como herramienta para educar a la comunidad local. El evento contó con la presencia de autoridades y actores sociales claves en la gestión de la ONG puesto que se presentó en dicha oportunidad el Plan de Manejo para la sustentabilidad de la estancia Cerro Paine. Futuro Hoy se ha comenzado la ejecución del Plan de manejo que considera distintas etapas de investigación tomando como base la zonificación presentada en el proyecto, siendo nuestro mayor desafió. Además se encuentran disponibles vacantes para los trabajos voluntarios en senderos, para aquellos que quieran enseñar la lengua inglesa a la comunidad de Torres del Paine y diseñadores de websites que puedan aportar con sus conocimientos a la agrupación.. La temporada va cobrando fuerza cada ves más y aumenta el flujo de visitantes a la Patagonia Chilena y así también sin lugar a dudas se irán incorporando más voluntarios a esta iniciativa que busca mantener viva e intacta la tierra y sus paisajes. Hoy disponemos de un sitio donde encontraras diversas alternativas para participar como voluntario en proyectos ambientales en Torres del Paine. Visitar www.amatorresdelpaine.org o solicita información a info@amatorresdelpaine.org
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Puerto Natales Map
Introducing the fastest way to reach Torres del Paine National Park:
The Punta Arenas / Puerto Natales 1 hour flight! flynandu@nanduair.com / ph. (56-2) 326 08 10
Leaving No Trace - Everywhere Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu. 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit. Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint. 2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes & streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary. In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent. In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning. 3. Dispose of Waste Properly Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. To wash yourself or your dishes, carry www.patagoniablacksheep.com
water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater. 4. Leave What you Find Preserve the past, observe but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches. 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the backcountry. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes. 6. Respect Wildlife Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not follow or approach them. Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times, mating, nesting, raising young, or winter. 7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail.Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises. Source http://www.nols.edu/lnt/principles.shtm
In Pto. Natales... Start your trip with a good breakfast & real coffee. Starting a 7:00am. Blanca Encalada 226 - Puerto Natales, Chile
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13
Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Questions & Answers Are there any internet cafes on Isla Navarino? Yes! But the connection is not so good. The two cyber cafés are at the Akainij travel agency in the centro comercial and the other is up the hill and is called Cape Horn Net Cyber Café. Can I rent equipment on Isla Navarino? Turismo Shila in the Centro Comercial provides a range of camping equipment. Another possibility is to take a guide which provides the equipment. Where can I find camping gas? Turismo Shila as well as some hostels sell camping gas. What can I find to do in downtown Pto. Williams? Well….you´ll just have to come and find out. How old is this town? The town was established in 1953 as a naval base. Why is the town here? Geopolitics. Can I drink the water on Isla Navarino?
How do I get to Puerto Williams? To get to Isla Navarino/Puerto Williams you have three main choices: The first is the slightly uncomfortable but adventurous ferry that takes you 36 hours from Punta Arenas, the second is the twin otter that flies you across the Darwin ranges and takes you 1 hour and 15 minutes, and the third is to go via Ushuaia and cross the beagle channel by zodiac. The choice is yours. Where is the downtown of Pto Willliams? It is strange to think that such a small place seems to have two centers. One is the centro commercial where you will find the post and DAP office, and then there are the supermarkets which are found facing each other along the road Piloto Pardo. Where can I sleep? There are actually quite few places to stay. Some are cheaper than others. There is a luxuary hotel which is pretty expensive, and then there is a range of hostels and residenciales around town.
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Yes you can, but be careful with drinking the water from beaver dams. Are there any animals I need to worry about on Navarino? Not really, but sometimes the dogs can be an annoyance. Do I have to pay anything to trek on the Dientes? Nope, free! Where do I start my trek? At Pilot Pardo Street - the cops. You have to leave info about your itinerary and return date. From there you can head to either one of the two trailheads. How do I get to Ushuaia from here? Ushuaia is NORTH (as in not south) from Williams. There is a Zodiac which has regular crossing from Isla Navarino to Ushuaia. Its fairly pricey but still a good option if you don’t want to backtrack. Information for this can be found at Café Angelus at the Centro Comercial. Where can I find an Dientes map? Ooooo. That’s a tough one. There are Trekking guides available at the tourism agencies. Because there were only a few printed they usually ask you to photocopy them. Why are half of the buildings white in Pto. Williams? The white buildings are the armada, (navy), buildings which house their offices and families. Is there a money machine in Williams? Yep, and it is 24hrs as well. Its at the Banco de Chile.
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Can I rent a car in Pto. Williams? No. What time do the stores open? Usually between 1000 and 1300, and then from 1600/1700 to 2000. The supermarkets are open from nine in the morning to twelve at night. How many people visit Williams in a season? Well, in a year there are about 8000 visitors to the island. Of this about 6000 are cruiseship passengers and 2000 overnight tourists that usually go trekking. How big is Isla Navarino? 40 by 100KM. Why does everyone say that Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world? This has been a false rumor that has been circulating for years to draw people to Ushuaia. Some say there are differences between a city and a town, but whatever - there is no place to live further south then Puerto Willliams. How far is Cape Horn? Its about 165km south of Puerto Williams. Can I get to Cape Horn or Antarctica from Puerto Williams? Yes you can, but it will cost ya. Several yachts leave Puerto Williams to these destinations during the summer season. Are there any other towns on Isla Navarino? Yes, but they are even smaller. Puerto Toro is truly the southernmost town in the world and is only reached by boat. Puerto Navarino is basically two families big and then there are some farms around. What is the population of Puerto Williams? 2262
Patagonias Airlines
Aerovías DAP - Uniendo la Patagonia Aerovías DAP, es la empresa de transporte aéreo de la Patagonia, territorio que presenta una extensión de más de un millón de kilómetros cuadrados de bosques, glaciares, pampas y cumbres del fin del mundo. La inmensidad y lejanía de estas tierras, junto a las difíciles condiciones climáticas hacen de la conectividad un desafió permanente, tarea que por mas de 20 años, DAP ha desarrollado de manera integral. Unir las localidades más australes y realizar vuelos al continente Antártico, es sin duda un gran logro, que ha permitido que personas de todo el mundo se deleiten, exploren y conozcan estos prístinos paisajes. Volar junto a aerovías DAP, es una aventura sin límites, que permite llegar a retiradas localidades y a tierras casi inexploradas por el hombre, donde solo habitan especies que logran soportar temperaturas y condiciones extremas. DAP a través de sus vuelos regulares y vuelos charter pueden alcanzar cualquier punto geográfico de Magallanes y Antártica Chilena, una región llena de secretos y leyendas. La empresa cuenta con una variada flota de aviones y helicópteros los cuales December 2006
cumplen con todas las normas de seguridad necesarias sumadas a la experiencia de pilotos de reconocida trayectoria. Entre su flota se destacan: Aviones DASH - 7 , TWIN OTTER DHC- 6, BEECHCRAFT, CESSNA 402 , HELICÓPTEROS AS 355, HELICÓPTEROS BO-105, AERORESCATE -BO-105. Además, de transporte de pasajeros y carga, cabe destacar que la empresa DAP cuenta con servicios en las siguientes áreas: servicios industriales, servicios turísticos, evacuación aeromédicas, control de incendio, transporte de alevines, transporte de prácticos, entre otros. Con la experiencia e impecable trayectoria de esta empresa por los cielos australes, usted puede estar confiado de recorrer la Patagonia en buenas manos.
Informaciones y reservas: O´Higgins 891 Tel.: 56-61-223340 E-mail: ventas@aeroviasdap.cl Punta Arenas - Chile
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Flights - DAP Information Punta Arenas - Porvenir - Puerto Williams Frequency From To Mon to P. Arenas Porvenir Sat Porvenir P. Arenas Mon, Wed, P. Arenas Porvenir Fri Porvenir P. Arenas Mon to P. Arenas P. Williams Sat P. Williams P. Arenas Tuesday P. Arenas P. Williams P. Williams P. Arenas
Time 8.15 8.35 12.30 12.50 10.00 11.30 15.00 16.30
Cost clp RT
$35.503 $35.503 $98.639 $98.639
14 Paddling across Patagonia
During the winter of 2004 and 2005 I took on two lone expeditions across the Patagonian Channels. In the first one I went over 750 kilometers in 90 days, starting from “Puerto Tranquilo” (General Carrera Lake, XI region of Chile) and finishing in the Wide Channel (XII region). In my second expedition I paddled across 1000 kilometers in 78 days from Puerto Natales (in the Magallanes region) to the dreaded Cape Horn. These two expeditions enriched my life, with satisfactions as well as dangers, but they never ruined my will and my anguish to keep paddling. I decided to paddle in winter because in Patagonia it is in this season when we have more days with less wind and the weather in much more predictable. What you have to take into count is the cold. It is intense and permanent. Here with the presence of a cold wave the temperature can fall easily to -20ºC. With this temperature, not only the fresh water can freeze but also the fjord where we are paddling. This can happen if the fjord has a narrow passage, that delays the tide, or if the bay is too extensive and not protected by the wind. On a clear night we can hear how the change of tides break the first mantle of ice. This sound is a warning to let us know that we need to look for channels more to the west. Generally this happens when you are trying to reach glaciers. But sometimes it is necessary to go up this mantle, but when it breaks the pieces can damage your suit.
by German Doggenweiler
The ice becomes like sharp shards of glass. But as long as the ice can support the weight of the kayak is very efficient method of transportation. When I paddled to the Pío XI glacier, the largest in South America, I was impressed by its size and the water full of icebergs of all sizes. I felt so lucky and so agreeable with myself, that I didn’t gave me time to examine a danger that took me for surprise. I was returning from the glacier across the “Eyre Bay”. A trip of approximately 45 kilometers long, of which the first third was a labyrinth of icebergs of all the sizes, then wind arrived. In the next twenty minutes I was being bounced between icebergs with no chance of choosing a direction. All the icebergs in the channel were assembling together in the west bank. The work became so difficult that I even thought of taking ashore, looking for a way out. But the problem with this solution was that I could be crushed between two icebergs if I tried to change directions. Finally I progressed a few meters to the east and tried to escape out of the ice ‘building’ that was coming my direction. I was using my paddle to hit the ice with all my force. I looked again the big iceberg that was advancing rapidly. As it got closer, it bigger bigger. I was scared and its size was enormous. It was a big ice rectangle. When I looked back to the iceberg I noticed that it was leaving a clear route behind it, I didn’t think it too long before scrambling to get behind it. Fortunately the idea worked.The giant piece of ice was pushing the little icebergs out of the way while raising my kayak. The effort was long and hard and it will had consequences to my paddle, as well as my back and my arms, to which I would have to give two days of full rest before paddling again. I lost one of my paddle tops in the exit of the Eyre channel and I learned a hard lesson about keeping the extra paddle close at hand hand. Most of the waves were wind waves. The size wasn’t important important, as was that they were
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timed very close to one to one other. This can slow the kayak considerably. Depending on the route (with a wind up the 30 kilometers per hour), it starts to complicate the navigation, here the wind can increase quickly to velocities up to the 100 kilometers per hour, for this reason if you are paddling in an area of few coasts you have to take a chance. There are crossings where the tides waves can also be present, but if the conditions are advantageous it will just be an up and down for a few moments. But it can also be in bad conditions. This can present strong currents and tides, in addition to a unfriendly and rocky coast. These are the conditions of the Cockburn channel, the Brecknok channel and the cross to the Hornos Island, to the dreaded Cape Horn. The entrance to the Messier channel, where we can have some difficult conditions (because of the “Penas Gulf”) can be avoided with a portage across an ancient forest paths. These were originally used by small boats, years ago, by the aboriginals of the zone, the Kawesqar. Other roads of aboriginals (of the Kawesqar and Yamana tribes) that I have seen that are very recommendable is the Obstrucción Bay-Skyring bay, the Beagle channel- Ponsonby bay, among others. A good stove and fuel are indispensables, plus knowing which are the species that make easier fires, like the “Tepu” which grows in the north. This is easily to recognize for its reddish wood, it ignites quick (even when is green), and it will warm like any other specie, unfortunately you won’t find it from Puerto Natales to the south. Other shrubs and trees have combustible resin that helps with the ignition, like the leaf of the Coigue and others. If you don’t know what to use, by trial and error you get some indication fairly quickly. One thing you have to be careful with is the Canelo. Its smoke is highly toxic and our eyes and is the first sign of warning. Another sign is that its wood doesn’t float. It is really a waste of time is to try to make fire with wood that is on the ground. Energy for the electronic accessories, like digital cameras, satellite phones and others, you will need a solar panel with at least 10 watts. The only foods that you can get from the sea is fish, like sea bass, or salmon and others, but it is no easy to catch them. The best places are the mouths of the rivers. Stay away from the shellfish. The shellfish have possibilities of being contaminated with red tide. In land there are mushrooms but you have to be
able to recognize the poisonous species. In winter there is no fruit, but there are some eatable plants like wild celery. I wont get into hunting, but in an extreme case you can hunt ducks or geese. ATTENTION!! MINES. Yes, unfortunately there are some remaining islands in the extreme south with explosives and with no signs of warning, for example in the Herschell Island. But there are a few and if you watch carefully you can see the presence of refuges, trench, wires and bags with sand. Although it is very improbable the existence of an aboriginal tribe at present, many times, with some strange markings in the beach makes me think of this possibility. But I assume that it was a product of my imagination and my loneliness, but it seems that I’m not the only one surprised by some of these strange signs and this year there is going to be an expedition to look for these possible canoeing tribes. If they exsist, they have wisely avoided any contact with the outside world. I would assume that the possible reception for us would not be very friendly. If is it true that they have remained hidden, it is because they consider us as a threat. If they really exist I really hope that nobody would ever find them. To navigate across the channels of Patagonia, between virgin islands, waterfalls, reddish and blue skies, birds, dolphins, otters, foxes, beavers*, whales and all the experience that makes you think of how wonderful life should be. The lifes of the Kawesqar and Yamana, that for millenniums sailed in his fragile canoes, until they met the “civilized man” that didn’t respect they way of live, producing theie extinction. Ironically. the strange thing is that in our civilized world, there are some men that, for a moment, need to fall into this ancient routine and get the sensation of being nomads on the Seas. www.tutravesia.com
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15 History Lost in the GoreTex Patagonia, it might sound funny, but the word PATAGONIA is already tiring me... now that I think about it, it is probably not the best line to start a column about Patagonia. Well, let me rephrase it. The abusive use of the word PATAGONIA is already tiring me (much better). The way I see it, Patagonia really means wild and pure humans living at the edge of their emotions, it means 100% American blood, it means outlaws, castaways, explorers, social explosions, wild horses, lions (American mountain lion), it means “baqueanos” (the ultimate South American cowboy), it means territory for the free spirits. It doesn’t mean fashionable and expensive outfit brands, it doesn’t mean tourist packages, it doesn’t even mean environmental projects to relieve some New York banker’s guilt. It doesn’t mean anything like that and it certainly doesn’t mean thousands of back packers following the track imposed by the latest edition of what ever boring – called “cool” – tourist guide book they brought along. How do I know that? Because, I met Lilo before he died. Once, he and Juan Sanches received me in their hut and gave me shelter during my first Patagonian winter solo horseback ride. I also know this because Don Manuel opened his old and fainting heart and beautiful soul, telling me about his knowledge of the human life in Patagonia – the real Patagonia. He told me about his memories of the last Aonikenk groups, of their “tolderías” (camps) at the Sierra Baguales and the valley of Las Chinas, and also I know this because once I climbed to the top of a desolated rocky mountain and, wiping the sweat out of my face, I heard the screams of the dead Aonikenks. The hill were I was standing was their cemetery.
by Max Salas
Whenever I see those sophisticated brands, those flashy “Patagonia” travel packages offered on the web or in credit card advertisements, whenever I see the hordes of backpackers following the same routes, I don’t see the faces of the Aonikenk nomad family buried on that rocky hill, I don’t see Lilo, I don’t hear Don Manuel’s stories. Next to those shiny and colourful letters and pictures there is no space for D’Agostini, the fabulous Italian climber and missionary, who reached those breathtaking mountain peaks long before it was fashionable, then, when I don’t see any of that, the use of the word Patagonia bores me. Patagonia is not virgin, it already enjoyed the pleasure of mankind’s creative touch, and – at the same time – suffered from its evil mindedness. Patagonia is not naïve either. There are corners that are obviously beautiful and others that are openly frightening. There is not much space for clichés and the warmth of its people is not expressed in sweet words or charming smiles, no, here, they welcome you in silence, they will look at you and offer a “mate” tea. They are not going to garnish it with words, those will come later (if they come) and you will always be able to say something if you wish, they have time to listen to whatever you have to say. Yes, Patagonia is remote, no doubt about that. That is probably the only genuine aspect that has been properly recognized in the modern PATAGONIA fashion, and some stories are still happening, as they have for centuries. When I arrived in this territory for the first time, I immediately became completely addicted. The spirit of the history, the legends and the stories, and the emotions and strength they reflect, deepened my links to this country and its people – in fact, the people and landscape became inseparable.
Cave Paintings near Puerto Natales ETNO Natural Park
The new Patagonian Etnonatural Park recently opened to the public. Its main attraction is the sculptural representation of the indigenous Magellan people set against beautiful natural scenes. The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45 minutes and consists of nine displays in which you can see depictions of the first inhabitants of these lands: The Kaweskar, Yamanas, Aonikenk and Selknam. In additon, there is a small cave inside the park, which was once used as a refuge by hunters. On its walls you can see cave paintings of simple shapes but with great symbolic meaning and power. Many of these are geometrical outlines, animal tracks, human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animal figures. Along the path, you can feel the secrets of the spirits in the air, and among the ancient trees of the wooded areas images of the steppe hunters of Tierra del Fuego come to mind, nomadic people and the austral rivers. The Etnonatural Park is outside of Puerto Natales near the Milodon cave at Km 23. The park is open everyday during the week and costs $3.000 per person.
The Municipality and the Puerto Williams Tourism Association Welcomes you to Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino, Chile
Beyond the end of the world...
Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino
Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Tourist Directory Hostales/Hostels
Fono/Phone
Direccion/Adress
e-mail address
Cabo de Hornos Camblor Coirón Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos Lajuwa Patagonia Pusaki Yagan Hospedaje Akainij Hotel Lakutaia Refugio El Padrino
621067 621033-621384 621227-621227 621140-621359 621267 621267-621075 621116-621224 621118-621334 621173-621173 621733-621298 621136
Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Uspashun 64 Villa Ukika Yelcho 230 Piloto Pardo 222 Piloto Pardo 260 Austral 22 Seno Lauta s/n Costanera 276
purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com hostalcoiron@tie.cl rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostallajuwa@yahoo.es pedroortiz@chilesat.net pattypusaki@yahoo.es hostalyagan@hotmail.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com gerencia@lakutaia.cl ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
Restaurantes/ Restaurants Café Agelus Club naval de yates Micalvi Cabo de Hornos Camblor Dientes de Navarino Patagonia
621080 621042 621067 621033-621384 621074 621267-621075
Centro comercial norte 151 Seno Lauta Costanera s/n Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Centro comercial Sur 14 Yelcho 230
caminito@123mail.cl fgascogner@yahoo.es purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com
Agencias de turismo/ Tourist agencies Turismo Akainij 621327-621173 Turismo aventura Shila 621366 Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Turismo SIM 621150- 621225 Agencia Native tours 621183 Agencia Victory Cruises 621010-621092
Centro comercial Sur 156 O´Higgins 322 Uspashun 64 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Centro Comercial Sur 154b Teniente Muñoz 118
turismoakainij@chileaustral.com turismoshila@gmail.com rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostalcoiron@tie.cl maurice.vandemaele@gmail.com www.victory.cruises.com
Café Internet/ Cyber Café Cape Horn Net cyber café Turismo Akainij
Teniente Muñoz 118 Centro comercial Sur 156
captainben@victory-cruises.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com
Tiendas de Souvenier/Giftshops 55°Sur 621265 Isla hornos souvenier 621734
Centro comercial norte 147 Centro comercial sur 140b
fgascogner@yahoo.es
Servicio de guias/guide services Fuegia&CO
Yelcho 232
fuegia@usa.net
621010-621092 621327-621173
621251
Transporte/Transports Servicio de taxi Servicios maritimos y turisticos Aerovias DAP Ushuaia boating Lancha peregrino austral Lancha Dep. Ultramar agencia maritima
621387 621015 621114-621051 54 2901 436193 621015 621294-621075 621049
Mario Leal 145 Costanera 436 Centro comercial sur 151 Gob.Godoy 190-Ususahia Costanera 436 Yelcho 230 Arturo Prat 35
jgodoy@terra.cl ventas@aeroviasdap.cl ushuaiaboagting@argentina.com peregrinoaustral@terra.cl pedroortiz@chilesat.net isiagredo@ultramar.cl
Otros Servicios Cabalgatas el padrino Museo Martin Gusinde Sabores del Beagle
621136 621043 621136
Costanera 262 Com.Aragay 1 esq.Gusinde costanera s/n
ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar pgrendi@yahoo.com ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
Now printable from ANYWHERE in the world...
For information contact: Av. B. O’Higgins 189 - Phone 621011 - 621013 municipalidad@municipalidadcabodehornos.cl December 2006
pedroortiz@chilesat.net
16
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Trail Tips... How much water should I drink?
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ph. +56-61 225889 Open all day
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Retail, coffee shop, Chilean wines, homemade brown bread and locally produced gourmet cheese.
Eberhard 226 Puerto Natales Patagonia Chile 09-5645547
While trekking or climbing the idea is to drink about 3 to 4 quarts a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output. Clear and copious is what you are looking for. Dark yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow - that´s different. If you are feeling thirsty, then you are already down up to a liter of water and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. A headache and/or cramping are also a signs of dehydration. Take the time to drink, don´t be pressured by the clock or the teams agenda. A clever team will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time, than to guzzle down a quart in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to be continually drinking all day. In Torres del Paine, we have one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water out of the fresh streams and creeks along its trails, although a good water filtration system is always a good idea while trekking abroad.
Off the beaten path in Puerto Natales Dumestre Road
In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera! If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedalling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “el camino a Dumestre”). You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless they seem by the sea. The farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. You’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Península.
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS
4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY
TEMPORADA 2006-2007- Regular Schedule
November 1 to March 15, 2007
"AQUEDANO
Pudeto
Pehoe
09:30am
10:30am
12:00pm
12:30pm
March 16 to 31, 2006
18:00pm 12:00pm
18:30pm 12:30pm
April 2007
18:00pm 12:00pm
18:30pm 12:30pm
One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed) Round trip ticket $17.000 per person Note: Trips at 09.30 am /10:00 am, no trip on 25/12/2006 and 1/01/2007 Los arrieros 1517. Puerto Natales. Phone 61-411380. Mail: maclean@entelchile.net
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A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
100 años de Cerro Castillo by Carmen Gloria Barrios En el año en que se cumple el Centenario de la fundación de la localidad de Cerro Castillo, queremos recordar un 1906, como el período que da origen a los inicios de este enclave cuyas raíces están ligadas a una de las sociedades ganaderas más grandes que existió en el Cono Sur de América entre la primera y segunda mitad del s. XX. Bajo esta misma línea se establece la Villa Cerro Castillo como consecuencia de la actividad colonizadora, seguida de la labor productora-ganadera de la Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego; que llega a un dominio que se extendió en la región desde el sur de Llanuras de Diana, hasta las estribaciones de la sierra Los Baguales alcanzando más de 130 Kms, y por la costa occidental de Lago Toro y curso del Río Paine por el occidente, hasta la frontera con Argentina. Sobre este territorio, que incluye además los campos argentinos, la Soc. Explotad. T.del Fuego organiza la Sección de Última Esperanza, bajo la gestión administrativa de T. R. D. Burbuy (1913-1923). El enclave físico de esta Sección se ubicó en el casco de la antigua Estancia Kark (Chorillo Picana). Con el tiempo este centro administrativo es reemplazado por el paraje de Cerro Castillo en el Valle del río don Guillermo. Es en este lugar donde la Sociedad Explotadora desarrolla uno de sus mayores esfuerzos arquitectónicos, creando una gran estancia con todas las condiciones necesarias para su autoabastecimiento. La Sección Cerro Castillo era una de las dos grandes unidades administrativas y principal de trabajo, que comprendía todos los campos ubicados en el suelo chileno, al norte de Tres Pasos inclusive; la segunda denominada Sección Sur de Última Esperanza comprendía las magnificas edificaciones del Frigorífico Bories y Puerto Prat. En 1910, dicha sociedad llegó a poseer 408.016 hectáreas del total de las tierras ganaderas existentes en U. Esperanza. Este extraordinario monopolio ganadero que derrochaba eficiencia económica, extendía sus dominios también al territorio argentino y alcanzó su máximo esplendor en la Patagonia cuando logró manejar entre tierras propias y arrendadas al Fisco 3.000.000 de hectáreas de terreno apto para la crianza ovina. Es importante destacar la cifra exorbitante de lanares que manejaba esta gran empresa cerca de 125.000 cabezas de ganado ovino sólo en Cerro Castillo, lo que implicaba un período de esquila de alrededor de dos meses, otra cantidad más en bovinos y caballares (10.000 y 400 respectivam.), éstos últimos llevaban en su cuerpo a fierro fundido la marca fuego XP que era representativo e identificaba la propiedad del animal a manos de la Explotadora. El destino final de la Sociedad en territorio chileno comenzó a gestarse a partir de 1973, cuando el Gobierno dicta la llamada Ley de Tierras de Magallanes comenzando con las sucesivas devoluciones de los campos fiscales arrendados a las grandes compañías. Es entre los años 1969-1970, cuando la Sociedad Ganadera de Tierra del Fuego, (nombre que adquiere la Soc. Explot. T.del Fuego con el tiempo evitando así el uso del término “Explotadora”) hace entrega de los campos fiscales que poseía en el área de Torres del Payne. Estos terrenos son entregados por el Gobierno a familias para el establecimiento de Explotaciones Comunitarias. Los que finalmente, desde el año 1977, se dividen en Lotes Ganaderos y son asignados a los actuales propietarios. Junto con esta nueva experiencia de administración para las tierras se suceden cambios administrativos-políticos que dan inicio a un proceso de regionalización en nuestro país. En la Provincia de Última Esperanza, December 2006
se crean dos comunas: Natales con su capital urbana Puerto Natales y Cerro Castillo, esta última sin municipio. La denominación de Torres del Payne en lugar de Cerro Castillo, se debió a que el nombre es conocido nacional e internacionalmente por la identificación de sus recursos turísticos, a esto se agrega que Payne es un término que proviene de la lengua Aoniken cuyo signicado es: Azul. Es así, como el 05 de Junio de 1980, mediante el Decreto con Fuerza de Ley Nº 1-2868, publicado en el Diario Oficial del 15 de Octubre de 1980, se establecen las municipalidades que tendrán a su cargo la administración local de sus respectivas comunas, entre ellas la Comuna de Torres del Payne.
Cerro Castillo…hoy
Es Villa Cerro Castillo, la capital de la Comuna Torres del Payne. Localidad auténticamente ganadera, que complementa su actividad originaria con el turismo. Cuenta con una ubicación geográfica privilegiada que la conecta a importantes hitos turísticos nacionales y extranjeros. A tan solo 2 kms. de la Villa se ubica el paso fronterizo “Don Guillermo”, que lleva a la localidad El Calafate, Argentina. El Parque Nacional Torres del Payne, con sus ingresos principales “Lago Sarmiento” y “Laguna Amarga” se encuentran a solo 56 kms de la Villa y 59 kms de distancia separan a esta comunidad de la ciudad de Puerto Natales. Cerro Castillo cuenta con una magnifica historia de esplendor ganadero al que podemos remontarnos observando la mayoría de sus construcciones del siglo pasado que siguieran un patrón adaptado de la arquitectura del norte de Inglaterra. De acuerdo a esta caracterización destacan diversos sitios de interés: Cementerio de Cerro Castillo, declarado Monumento Nacional en 1976 (ubicado en campos Est. El Solitario),el Galpón de Esquila, Casa de los Esquiladores, Casa del Administrador (actual Hostería El Pionero), Casa del subadministrador, Talleres de maquinarias del P.I.P.G. (Plan de Implemento a la Producción Ganadera), herrería, carnicería y lechería, almacén y bodega (hoy Hospedaje Loreto Belén), casino de Empleados (parte de las dependencias Est. El Solitario), internado. Villa Cerro Castillo tiene una población de 140 habitantes, en donde existen variados servicios, atractivos turísticos y actividades relevantes. SERVICIOS: • Posta de Salud Rural • Escuela Internado • Jardín Infantil • Retén de Carabineros • Paso Fronterizo Río don Guillermo • Cafetería “Loreto Belén” • Cafetería “El Ovejero” • Kiosco de Artesanía “ Ñandú” • Hostería “El Pionero” • Hospedaje “Loreto” • Aeródromo y Vulcanización • Combustible Teléfono Público • Biblioteca Pública y Museo Municipal • Terminal de Bus • Oficina de información turística ACTIVIDADES RELEVANTES: • Faena de Esquila, en el mes de Diciembre, se esquilan aproximadamente 1.500 animales diarios, raza Corriedale. • Fiesta a la Chilena, en el mes de Enero, consiste principalmente en amanse de potros, novillo, competencia de perros ovejeros, carreras a la chilena, carrera de resistencia de caballos, competencia de adiestramiento de perros ovejeros y fiesta bailable. • Rodeo chileno, en el mes de Febrero. • Marca de ganado ovino y bovino, en Noviembre y Febrero respectivamente.
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18
First Aid Questions
Three days or more of serious trek-
king can take its toll on any body not accusto-
by Sarah Rutter rather than carry on and risk exacerbating the problem.
med to such endurance, so it’s likely that you’ll leave the Park with an aching muscle or two at
And if someone is seriously injured?
the least. And unfortunately, there’s always a
The first thing you should do is report the in-
chance of more serious injury. Here are some
cident, through whatever means available, to
tips on reducing that possibility and what to do
a Park ranger or any of the concessions within
if you’re not so lucky...
the Park. Every Park ranger station and concession has a radio and will alert CONAF
On the corner of Magallanes and Señoret ph 56-61-413723 www.cormorandelasrocas.com cormorandelasrocas@gmail.com
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413306 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
How can I avoid getting injured in the Park?
Administration, who will implement the ne-
The most common injury of walkers in the Park
cessary measures depending on the sector and
is pulled or strained muscles, so the best advice is
terrain you are in and the nature of the inci-
to be aware of your fitness level and your limits
dent. Assistance will be provided to anyone in
and don’t try to do too much. Stretching well at
difficulties, as long as you are in an authorised
the end of a day of walking and first thing in the
area of the Park (ie on a marked pathway or
morning should help loosen taut muscles and re-
recognised public area), so keep
duce the risk of strains. Blisters are a common
to the permitted routes at all times unless
complaint too, so make sure you have the right
you have specific permission (available
footwear. Taping the areas of your feet prone to
for climbers only).
friction injuries with zinc oxide or fabric surgical
Wherever possible, the Park rangers will get you
tape before you start can also help to avoid blis-
out of the mountain area to a point from where
ters developing in the first place. Insect bites can
transport can be arranged to Puerto Natales or
be bothersome as well.
Punta Arenas if necessary. Very often guides or
Take a small first aid kit with you containing at
others in the Park work with the Park rangers to
the minimum, pain killers/ anti-inflammatories,
help people in difficulties. If you need an ambu-
plasters/ blister treatment (Second Skin is ideal
lance or other special transport out of the Park,
for friction injuries on your feet), insect repellent
you will need to pay for this yourself.
and anti-histamine cream.
Remember that it may take some time for help
to arrive, as the Park is large and many areas can What if I don’t have the treatment I need with
only be reached on foot or by horse.
me?
Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
Hostel Oro Fueguino Phone/FAX (56-61) 246677 Celular 09-1619890
Fagnano 356
Every Park ranger station has a first aid kit and
What about helicopter assistance?
can deal with minor injuries such as cuts, blisters
CONAF can arrange helicopter assistance if it
and strains. Whilst the Park rangers have first aid
is considered necessary and appropriate. Every
training, they are not allowed to administer me-
sector of the Park has a designated helicopter
dicines, so they cannot perform miracles. Depen-
landing area. However, the availability of heli-
ding on the severity of the injury, you may have
copter assistance depends largely on the weather
to consider modifying or abandoning your trek
conditions within the Park. If the wind is too strong, the cloud too thick or the rain too heavy,
NIKO’S II A d v e n t u r e Tr a v e l A g ency
*Regular Daily buses to Torres del Paine *Regular One Day Tours Torred del Paine *Excursions to Torres Base
a helicopter cannot be deployed. Again, it may take a few hours for assistance to arrive depending on the conditions and where the injured person is. If a helicopter is deployed, the injured person will need to cover this cost.
www.nikostwoadventure.com Phillipi 600 - Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 413543
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Punta Arenas - CHILE
pizzería en la plaza arturo prat 196 tel. 411571
Torres del Paine National Park Mountain Shelters : Grey - Dickson Campings: Grey - Dickson - Los Perros
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Cama - Ducha - Comidas - Bar / Bed - Shower - Meals - Bar - Rental Equipment Reservas para todos los refugios y Programas con full servicio - Bus Regular al Parque Reservations for all the shelters & Full Service Programs - Regular Bus to the Park
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Medical Training In Torres del Paine -Claudio A Estrada Pérez
Parque Nacional Torres del
ATTENCIÓN!
Paine (CONAF), lugares en los cuales se pudo contar con la gentileza y cordialidad
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de quienes dirigen tan importantes entidades, las personas que participaron en este curso fueron entre otros, Alumnos de Turismo de distintas casas de estudios superiores, Guardaparques que realizan labores de atención de público, patrullaje y rescate en algunos casos, en el Parque Nacional
Para nadie es desconocido en estos tiempos, que la mejor manera de acceder y entregar un servicio de calidad, integral y sustentable, es Capacitando, Tecnificando y Profesionalizando a quienes se desempeñen en las distintas áreas de una empresa y cualquiera sea esta la actividad productiva; pues bien, el Turismo no es la excepción a esta regla, y compromete a cada uno de nosotros, en adquirir y a su vez facilitar la entrega de conocimientos y nociones técnicas a los diferentes niveles laborales de la actividad. Es por esto, que con mucho orgullo tengo la misión de hacerles llegar una muy grata noticia al respecto; hace tan solo unos días, 31 personas que realizan distintas labores en nuestro querido Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, participaron en un curso denominado “Curso de Capacitación Wilderness First Responder (WFR)”, con clases teórico-prácticas en base a los protocolos emanados por la “American Heart Association (AHA)”, este curso fue impartido de forma impecable por la “Fundación Escuela Argentina de Socorrismo y Primeros Auxilios (EASPA)”, provenientes de Buenos Aires, Argentina, quienes son avalados por la “Sociedad Argentina de Medicina de Montaña (SAMM)” y la “Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña (AAGM), y reconocidos a través de membrete por la “Wilderness Medical Association (WMS)”. Quienes tuvieron la oportunidad de participar en esta capacitación, fueron instruidos a lo largo de 9 arduos días, y 85 horas pedagógicas de clases, repartidos entre la instrucción en sala de clases y los
Torres del Paine, Porteadores quienes trabajan en este mismo parque nacional, Guías Convencionales, de Trekking y Montaña, enviados Red ProTurismo, y amantes
GOLDEN DRAGON
R E S TA U R A N T
de la naturaleza y de actividades al aire libre. Algunos de los tópicos y protocolos impartidos en el curso son: -Reanimación Respiratoria.
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Ph +56-61 413110 Ph +56-61 241663
-Reanimación Cardio- Respiratoria. -Anafilaxis.
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-Fracturas y lesiones articulares. -Mal Agudo de Montaña (MAM). -Control de Hemorragias. -Asfixia. -Aumento de la presión Intracraneal (PIC). -Improvisación de Equipos (Camillas y otros sistemas de traslado para heridos). -Quemaduras.
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Gracias al éxito obtenido, es que se ha proyectado la realización de su similar una vez por año; esperamos por el bien de la actividad turística, por el bien de quienes desempeñan labores en las distintas áreas naturales que nos entrega nuestra querida tierra, y por sobretodo por el bien de nuestros clientes y pasajeros, que iniciativas de este tipo sigan generando gran expectativa y teniendo tanto éxito como hasta ahora, y que no solo esta iniciativa se lleve
Hostal
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Twin Rooms Double Rooms Library Restaurant
Tomás Rogers 38 - Puerto Natales, Chile - (56-61) 411162 www.chileaustral.com itat@mixmail.com
a cabo año a año, esperemos que los nuevos espacios de capacitación sean muchos….. muchos más.
Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile Phone / Fax 56•61•415285
¡¡¡extenuantes simulacros!!!, que a más de alguno les dejo algún recuerdo o anécdota, además de la enseñanza……obviamente. Para efectos del curso fueron preparadas distintas locaciones, en esta oportunidad se realizaron actividades, tanto en la Universidad de Magallanes, Sede Puerto Natales, como también, en la Sede Administrativa del December 2006
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The Ghosts of Patagonia The human presence in these remote lands repeats the thirst for adventure that has guided human beings since their origin. The first tribes of hunters that occupied these territories arrived 12,000 years ago. Only 6000 years ago, the Kaweshkar canoers, along with the Aonikenk (ancient dwellers of the plains), initiated the permanence and continuity of man in this corner of the planet. Soon after, the arrival of the Spanish captain Juan Ladrilleros (1557-58) marked the discovery of the zone and much later the German pioneer Hermann Eberhard (1892-93) initiated the colonization the area. Even later the arrival of many Chilean people from the island of Chiloé put their seal of identity on this area called Patagonia. The Yamanas or Yaghans, known as the canoeist of the Beagle, were the southernmost inhabitants in the world. They lived along the edges of the Beagle Channel, as well as neighbouring channels, as far south as Cape Horn. They
by Marcela Suazo
were adapted to living on the coast, hunting southern sea lions for their principal source of food because of their high fat content. The Sélknam or Onas inhabited the steppes in the north and the woods in the south of Tierra del Fuego. Their way of life was very similar to that of the Aonikenk, although they never used horses. They hunted guanaco, wild birds and rodents. They lived in circular huts made of tree trunks covered with leather and sticks. The Sélknam were tall, formidable, and more aggressive in character than the other aboriginals. They died out having been displaced from their lands or eliminated by the colonists who cleared the land in order to set up farms. The Kawéskar. Called the Alacalufes by the Spanish, lived spread out in small groups that travelled, via canoe, through the channels of the Archipelago. They inhabited the area stretching from the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Pains) to the Brecknock Peninsula, a very damp and rainy area with
International Black Sheep abundant vegetation. They hunted sea lions, otters and birds, as well as fished and collected shellfish and molluscs. They would take advantage of the meat and skin of any whale beached by the low tides. They built their canoes with pieces of cut bark tied together with vegetable fibres and sealed with a mixture of earth, clay, and roots. Their huts were made with wooden poles which were covered with sea lions skin.
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The Aonikenk or Patagones inhabited the steppe from the River Santa Cruz in Argentina in the north to the Straight of Magellan in the south. They spent their time hunting rhea (Ñandú) and other birds, as well as the guanaco whose meat they ate and skin they used for clothing. Their homes were made using leather and wooden poles. All of the group participated in the hunt for guanaco and rheas. The women carried the tools and helped to strengthen the fencing used to isolate the animals so that they could be attacked by the men with “Boleadoras” and bows and arrows.
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