P a t a g o n i a • P u n t a A r e n a s • P u e r t o N a t a l e s • To r r e s d e l P a i n e • C a l a f a t e • C h a l t é n
March 2008
Black B lack
FREE
Sheep Sheep
Volume 3 • Issue 7 • March 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Dave Turner
Patagonia’s Monthly Information & Travel Magazine
Answering Patagonia’s Questions
Sierra Baguales: The Land of Wild Horses On January 25, 2008, Dave Turner finished the longest solo climb in Patagonia -- 34 days alone on Escudo in Torres del Paine NP. What’s up with this guy?
Leyenda de los Onas Recycle this paper: Pass it on!
pg. 14
ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE
March.08
Word from the front line
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
- Rustyn Mesdag, publisher
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Cover Image: Self-portrait by Dave Turner.
Published by Southern Cross Ltda.
Black Sheep
Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Magazine Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile ph +56•61 977090141
Publisher: Rustyn Mesdag editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
Director: Pilar Irribarra sales@patagoniablacksheep.com
Editor: Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
Staff Writer: Carolyn “CJ” Wilson cjwilson07@gmail.com
Sales: Sebastian Borgwardt sebastian@patagoniablacksheep.com Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com Anthony Riggs anthony@patagoniablacksheep.com
Contributors: Pia Urbina Mauricio Cortes Steve Schneider Sarah Anderson
Webmaster: Carla Cuadra webmaster@patagoniablacksheep.com Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile--the bull’s eye of Patagonia.The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertizers.We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.
As a foreigner living in Patagonia full time, I’m often hit by how lucky I am to have the time it takes to even begin seeing all Patagonia has to offer. It’s wonderful to spend five days in Torres del Paine and get a sense of it all, but Patagonia is more than trekking, climbing, and camping. It is also world class kayaking, horseback riding, boating, fishing, bird watching, and just simple leisure. Many travelers visit Patagonia on a very tight schedule, so they only get a glimpse of what’s here. I was lucky enough to have an experienced friend show me around Patagonia my first time. But without some insider tips and tricks, most people aren’t even aware of their options. Everyone knows about the ‘W’ in Torres del Paine: the trek from Campamento Grey, on the west side of the park, down and around into Valle Frances, then down and around again, through the Los Cuernos area, up to the Towers and back down. Then there’s the full circuit. Starting with the ‘W,’ then around the backside to Refugio Dickson, up and down over the John Gardner Pass, and back down to Campamento Grey. Fewer folks do the circuit compared to the ‘W,’ but for those who do, a feeling of accomplishment is undeniable. It takes 7-10 days (depending on the pace and drive) and circumnavigates the park beautifully. But there is more. There is what we consider to be, by far, the way to claim full bragging rights in Torres del Paine. More than the ‘W.’ More than the circuit. Ladies and gentlemen, may we present to you ‘The Q.’ This is how it’s done... Day 1: Leaving from Puerto Natales in the morning, take whatever transportation you’ve arranged to the Administration center at the south end of the Park. This is where your adventure begins. The Park stretches in front of you like a dream. By starting your hike here, you truly feel like you’re walking to Torres del Paine, and not being ‘shuttled’ in with the masses. (This part of the trek is not quite as impressive if you do it on the way out, because the views lay behind you.) Most trekkers access the park from the Las Torres area and take the catamaran across Lago Pehoe. If you take public transportation, you will probably arrive around 1 p.m. Check out the visitor’s center at Administration. By the time you are ready to roll, assume it’s 3 p.m. At this point, your pack will be at its heaviest, day one of what might be a 10 day trip. Trek for two hours and make camp at the free campsite, Las Carrettas. It makes for an early camp, but with your pack being at its heaviest, just enjoy the short day. Day 2: Starting much earlier than the day before, trek up toward Lago Pehoe, approximately four hours, then push on another two hours to the free campsite, Campamento Italiano. Italiano is a magnificent camp
area and sits at the mouth of spectacular Valle Frances. Day 3: This morning, leave the tent, extra food, sleeping bag and mat behind. Load your backpack with some food, rain gear, camera, and just a few basics, and head up into Valle Frances light. It’s a steep hike, so going light is nice. The valley offers natural lookouts, so even if you don’t make it to the very end of the valley, you will understand what all the hype is about. Keep an eye on the time and head down to the camp again by around 4 p.m.Then pack up your camp and progress to Refugio Los Cuernos.This is good spot to spend night three. Day 4: Today, haul your loaded pack all the way around and up to the free campsite Las Torres. This will be a long day, approximately 7-9 hours, depending on how fast you walk and how many times you stop.The signs will direct you to Refugio Chileno, but one hour further, the campsite is free. Chileno is a beautiful spot and it’s tempting to call it a day and camp there. But the following morning you’ll wake before dawn to try to see the towers in their breathtaking, red morning glow. The early morning trek to the lookout takes at least 45 minutes from Campamento Las Torres, or 1:45 from Chileno, and then you have to factor in the darkness which makes it more like 2:15. (Talking pre-dawn, I choose the shorter of the options). Day 5: Wake up this morning around 4:30 a.m. (fun!). No matter what the weather is like, at 4:30 in the morning, it will be friggin’ cold. Most people wrap themselves up in hats and jackets before heading up the dark trail to the outlook. It only takes minutes before their body tempature shoots through the roof and they start to sweat like true athletes. By the time they get to the mirador, they are a sweaty mess, the body cools down, the wind hits them, and they start to get really cold.They snap a photo or two, then have to head back down to camp to get warm again.This is not the idea.You need to anticipate this problem and hike up the trail without tons of clothes on. On this morning, leave your camp behind. Only bring your packs loaded with the coats you’re not wearing, your sleeping mat, sleeping bag, and breakfast stuff.When you reach the top, all of your sweat will have evaporated. Throw on your warm cloths, put down your sleeping mats (so you don’t have to sit on an ice cold rock), and even crawl into your sleeping bags, to truly enjoy the Towers at dawn, warm and toasty. To top it all off, fire up your stoves and make your morning coffee. There’s no better way to enjoy this very special morning. After a couple of hours (long after everyone else has bailed due to cold), you have soaked it all in, and you head back to camp. Pack up and have a nice, downhill trek to the campsite next to Refugio Las Torres. You’ll arrive to the campsite around 1 p.m. It’ll seem like there is plenty of time to continue on, but remember you woke that morning at 4:30 a.m. It’s already been a long day. You close the book on the ‘W,’ repack, reassess, maybe buy
some things from the little store near Hostería Las Torres (to fill in some of the blanks for the back circuit), and call it a day. This is a paid camping area and cost 3.500 pesos per person. Day 6: Today, you start the back circuit, early and refreshed. And it’s a good thing because you have an 8-10 hour trek to Refugio Dickson. When looking at a map, it seems like a huge distance, but the terrain is milder then the ‘W’ and you cover a lot of ground fast. It’s a much different experience than the ‘W.’ Day 7: Today, you progress to Campamento Perros. There is no refugio here, but you still have to pay for camping. It seems like a short day and people tend to think that they could push on further. We wouldn’t suggest it. (Not to put any limits on anyone.) Last year a guy ran the entire ‘W’and circuit in 18 hours, so anything is possible. But as a general rule, stopping at Perros for night is the way to go. Day 8:This is the day of The Pass. The hardest thing about the Paso John Gardner is the wind. The terrain is manageable, and the view from the pass is unmatched. The view of Glacier Grey (and the Patagonian Ice Field on a clear day) is one of the most amazing moments you’ll experience in Patagonia, hands down.When you head down the pass, you’ll have to decide where to camp.There are two free campsite after coming down off the pass. Staying at the Campamento Guardes is a nice way to shorten the day, and it offers more views of the glacier from above.Truly a beautiful camp… and free! Day 9: This could be your final day in the Park. If you hurry, you can make it to the mid-day catamaran at 12:30 p.m. If you just want to enjoy the final day at an easier pace, there’s a boat at 6:30 p.m. Or maybe camping one more day suits you better. But in either case, you just puilled off the full ‘Q’! Congratulations, you are officially on a very small list of Q’ers. Now personally, if I am doing anything for 9-10 days straight, there is a good chance that the ‘X’ factor with come into play. The ‘X’ factor being some very Patagonian change of plans that you never anticipated. I always give myself one extra day just this reason. It might be a bad weather day where I just don’t want to submit myself to, or maybe a good weather day where I don’t want to to budge. Maybe it’s an injury day, or maybe you finally meet your soul mate, right here in Torres del Paine. That’s a good reason not to have to keep to some rigid schedule. Any way you look at it, you have a day to play with. That means out on day 10, and 10 days of trekking earns you some serious bragging rights. If you weren’t experienced before, you will be experienced when you get out. Baptism by fire, Patagonia style.
restaurantes favoritos de Black Sheep por su calidad y atención; Remezón, La Luna, Jekus, La Marmita y el Restaurant del prestigioso hotel Cabo de Hornos, son entre otros nuestros predilectos. A los alrededores de Punta Arenas se puede visitar el Parque Nacional Pali-Aike, la Reserva Nacional Magallanes, Fuerte Bulnes, el Cerro Mirador, el centro de deportes invernales y por supuesto las pinguineras de Seno Otway o de Isla Magdalena. ¡Muchos motivos para permanecer un par de días en la capital regional disfrutando de la hospitalidad de la Patagonia! Además, quería anunciarles que este mes hay importantes cambios en nuestro Travel Magazine. Hace meses atrás, el staff Black Sheep se plantío el desafío de ampliar la información saliendo de las fronteras de la Patagonia Austral. En este número
hemos incluido importantes Q&A (questions & answers) de lo que llamamos el “gringo trail” o el circuito que habitualmente siguen los viajeros que llegan hasta la Patagonia. Es por esto que desde este número en delante encontrarás datos, artículos, mapas y mucho más de Pucón, Puerto Varas, Puerto Montt, El Calafate y El Chaltén. Cuando nos preguntamos ¿De dónde vienen los turistas que llegan a Magallanes y hacia dónde van? Las respuestas son coincidentes… del Calafate o del Chaltén (Argentina), de la Región de Los Lagos o de la Araucania (Chile). Esto nos animó a ampliar nuestra distribución y a la vez dedicar algunas páginas a cada uno de estos lugares, ayudando así a nuestros lectores durante su viaje.
- Pilar Irribarra, directora
Comúnmente en nuestra editorial nos referimos a Torres del Paine y alrededores. Este mes quería invitar a nuestros lectores a disfrutar su paso por la ciudad de Punta Arenas que como capita de la región de Magallanes tiene atractivos no sólo naturales también históricos. Punta Arenas está situado a orillas del Estrecho de Magallanes,en la península de Brunswick, en el grado 53-54 latitud sur, aproximadamente. Punta Arenas, fue llamada antiguamente Punta Arenosa, traducción literal del nombre inglés “Sandy Point”, dado a este pequeño paraje descubierto en el siglo XVII por J. Byron, fundada en 1848. En un paseo por la ciudad, podemos visitar el “Cerro la cruz” desde la cima se ofrece una
vista panorámica de la ciudad, con sus techos rojos, azules y amarillos y sus calles que descienden en pendiente hasta llegar al estrecho. Sin duda, la Plaza de Armas tiene un encanto especial sus árboles añosos y el Monumento a Hernando de Magallanes, al que los turistas se acercan a tocar el dedo del pie del indio. Los museos son otro de los panoramas; los palacios de Braun-Menéndez y Sara Braun, reúnen una importante colección de objetos que son testimonio del paso del hombre en su transcurrir histórico por la región y el museo de los Salesianos que tiene una interesante muestra étnica y natural. El placer gastronómico es sin duda un atractivo en sí mismo, los productos regionales más apetecidos son la centolla, el salmón, el congrio, la merluza y las carnes exóticas como la del castor, ñandú y guanaco. No puedo dejar de referirme a los
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Daily
Ph. 221812
12.45
Terminal Río Gallegos
13.00
Buses Ghisoni
Mon. & Wed.
Buses Ghisoni
Tues. & Thu. thru
Ph. 613420
thru Sat.
Terminal Río Gallegos
Sun.
L. Navarro 975
11.00
Buses Pacheco
Tue., Fri., Sun.
Buses Pacheco
Tue., Fri., Sun.
Ph. 242174
11.30
Terminal Río Gallegos
12.00
Chile / Argentina
buses
A. Sanhueza 745
12.00
Colón 900
Punta Arenas - Ushuaia
Ushuaia - Punta Arenas
Buses Pacheco
Tue., Thu., Sun.
Buses Pacheco
Mon., Wed., Fri.
Ph. 242174
09.00
San Martín 1267
08.00
Buses Barria
Wed. & Sat.
Buses Barria
Thu. & Sun.
Av. España 124
08.00
Comapa, San Martín 245
08.00
Tecni Austral
Tue., Thu., Sat.
Tecni Austral
Mon., Wed., Fri.
Ph. 613422
08.00
Roca 157
05.30
Colón 900
Ph. 240646
L. Navarro 975
Puerto Natales - Río Turbio
Río Turbio - Puerto Natales
Turis Sur
M-F:
Turis Sur
M-F:
Ph. 411202
08.15 & 13.30
Av. de los Mineros, Central
10.30 & 14.30
B. Encalada 555
Sat.: 11.00
Sat.: 14.30
Cootra
Daily
Cootra
Daily
Ph. 412785
08.30
Av. de los Mineros 100
12.15
Baquedano 456
18.15
19.45
Puerto Natales - El Calafate
El Calafate - Puerto Natales
Cootra
Daily
Cootra
Daily
Ph. 412785
07.30
Terminal de Ómnibus
08.30
Zaajh
M, W, F & Sun.:
Zaajh
M, W, F & Sun.:
Ph. 412260
07.00
Terminal de Ómnibus
08.00
Arturo Prat 236
T, Th & Sat.:
T, Th & Sat.:
09.00 & 14.30
17.30
Baquedano 456
El Calafate - El Chaltén
El Chaltén - El Calafate
Chaltén Travel
Chaltén Travel
Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.00
Hostel Rancho Grande
13.00
Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.00
06.30 13.00
18.30 CalTur
Daily
18.00 CalTur Avenida San Martín 520
Daily 08.00
13.00
13.00
18.30
18.30
El Calafate - Rio Gallegos
Rio Gallegos - El Calafate
Sportsman
Sportsman
12.30
Ph. 492680
Ph. 442595
Terminal de Ómnibus
Terminal de Ómnibus
Taqsa
03.00
Taqsa
Ph. 491843
Ph. 423130
Terminal de Ómnibus
Terminal de Ómnibus
Interlagos
04.00
Interlagos
Ph. 491273
Ph. 442080
Terminal de Ómnibus
Terminal de Ómnibus
20.00
09.00
09.00
buses
Buses Pinguinos
Paine
Daily
del
Buses Pinguinos
Torres
Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas
Pta. Arenas / Natales
Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos
Travel Times
Patagonia Bus Schedules Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park) El Calafate
5 hrs
TdP Laguna Amarga
2 hrs 30
Punta Arenas
3 hrs
TdP Pudeto
3 hrs 15
Ushuaia
15 hrs
Torres del Paine Admin.
3 hrs 45
Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas (allow time for border crossings) Puerto Natales
3 hrs
Río Gallegos
6 hrs
Río Grande
8 hrs
Ushuaia
13 hrs
Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Trip 1 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales Trip 1
Trip 2
7.00
14.30
Trip 2 Administration
13.00
18.00
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.30
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
14.30
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga
7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.15
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Administration
13.00
18.30
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga
7.30
14.00
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.30
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
14.30
17.30
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
19.30
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez
07.15
Buses Fernandez
08.00
Ph. 411111
09.00
Ph. 221812
09.00
E. Ramírez 399
13.00
A. Sanhueza 745
13.00
14.30
14.30
17.00
17.00
18.30
18.30
20.00
20.00
Buses Pacheco
07.30
Buses Pacheco
08.30
Ph. 414513
08.30
Ph. 242174
14.00
Baquedano 500
10.00
Colón 900
17.00
13.30
18.30
19.00
19.30
Bus Sur
07.00
Bus Sur
09.00
Ph. 411859
15.00
Ph. 614224
15.00
Baquedano 668
19.00
José Menéndez 552
19.00
For more details about terms and conditions, please contact the bus companies directly.
March.08
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Leave No Trace in Patagonia 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you plan to visit. Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit areas in small groups, or split larger parties into groups of 4-6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging, or marking paint.
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses, or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes and streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary. In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when it’s wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent. In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails.Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.
3. Dispose of Waste Properly Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp, and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.
4. Leave What You Find Preserve the past. Observe, but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts.Leave rocks,plants, and other natural objects as you find them.Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures or furniture. Don’t dig trenches.
5. Minimize Campfire Impacts Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Remember campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.
6. Respect Wildlife Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance. Never feed the animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviors, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times, such as during mating, nesting, raising young, or during winter.
7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, and yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Don’t yell or be overly noisy. Leave No Trace is a program developed by the U.S. Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the seven principles. For more information, please visit www.nols.edu.
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter. How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m. Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. What’s the Park entrance fee? 15.000 (about $30 greenbacks) Yep. It’s steep. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3.500 to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free. So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well. Which campsites are free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas. Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town. Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Is it better to trek the park clockwise or counterclockwise? You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person one way. 17.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season. Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios. Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Not really. But mice or foxes might get into your stuff. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you.
Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.
What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town.
Do I need sunscreen in the Park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during the spring and summer months. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.
Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.
Should I worry about bugs in the Park? You will see bugs on the back circuit if there is no wind and some warmer weather. Bug repellent is a good idea.
Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang.
Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine? No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you, and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly. Crazy, eh? How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.
PUERTO NATALES Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What about shopping hours midday? Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the supermarkets. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. How much do the taxis cost? 1.000 pesos within city limits. What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?!
Torres del Paine Refugio Information Prices are in U.S. dollars Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 albergue@lastorres.com Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos Breakfast
$9.00
Dorm bed
$34.00
Lunch
$13.00
Camping
$7.00
Dinner
$16.00
Sleeping bag
$7.00
Full board
$64.00
2-person tent
$11.00
Mattress
$3.00
www.er r aticr ock.com
?
Baquedano 719 Puerto Natales, Chile
A free information seminar is held every day at erratic rock at 3 p.m. in Puerto Natales.
Vertice +56-61 412742 ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Paine Grande, Dickson, Grey, Perros* Breakfast
$10.00
Dorm bed
$35.00
Lunch
$12.00
Camping
$7.00
Dinner
$18.00
Sleeping bag
$9.00
Full board
$65.00
2-person tent $14.00 Mattress
$3.00
* Prices may vary slightly between campsites
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS TEMPORADA 2007-2008 Regular Schedule
Janruary 1 to March 15, 2008
Pudeto
Pehoe
09:30am
10:30am
12:00pm
12:30pm
18:00pm
18:30pm
March 16 to 31, 2008
12:00pm
12:30pm
18:00pm
18:30pm
April 2008
12:00pm
12:30pm
One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed) Round trip ticket $17.000 per person Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales Ph 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net
It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... And all the garbage on the beach? That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up.
A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
Fotografia © 2007 Daniel Bruhin W.
TORRES DEL PAINE
Torres del Paine, Chile • Q&A
March.08
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2008 Big Rock Festival April 10, 11 & 12, 2008
The 3rd annual Big Rock Festival countdown has started. Big Rock activities include live music around Puerto Natales, athletic competitions, beach clean-up races, and more. Three days of fun and music sponsored by multiple local businesses. Join locals and travelers alike for the end of the season blow out bash!
Puerto Natales, Chile
Coupons & Discounts
Invitamos a las empresas interesadas en participar y colaborar con el Big Rock Festival 2008 a contactarnos al mail blacksheepchile@gmail.com
Patagonia Outboard P u n ta A l ta
10% off zodiac ride on Río Serrano www.puntaalta.cl
turismo@puntaalta.cl
244 Blanco Encalada, Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile
INDIVIDUAL SPANISH CLASSES IN PATAGONIA
10% discount Eb e r h a r d 1 6 1 , P u e r t o N a t ales
56-61 414143
Nueva Imagen Gymnasium & Spa Gymnasium & Spa
ph +56-61 412052
erratic rock Make the second ascent of Escudo and get one night free! Baquedano 719 Pto. Natales
5% off any program (cash only) www.aquanativapatagonia.com
Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile ph. 414143
5% off cash discount
café purchase
Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph 414143 This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a 1-hour massage. Valid season 2007-08.
10% cash discount massage
coPto. Natale 1 r o 2 f alada 226, c
o En
Blanc
FREE coffee or tea with purchase of sandwich
www.erraticrock.com
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
5% cash
www.southwindhostel.cl
2.30
-2 08.00 e n e e p f f s-O
Valid season 2007-08.
Southwind Hostel
Eberhard 568, Puerto Natales, Chile
crep
Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph 414143
15% off massage Eusebio Lillo 1417 Puerto Natales, Chile
niax o g s ns a Pat o o k de muffi soups B é & Homema uiche, Caf q es,
discount off any
ph +56-61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto. Natales
World’s End Books 5% off any cash purchase Maps - travel guides Patagonia books in English Blanco Encalada 226, Pto. Natales, Ph. 414725
D ow n Tow n H o s t e l cash discount 10% off Armando Sanhueza 555, Punta Arenas, Chile
bar.toore@gmail.com
Toore
2 for 1 pisco sour!
Eberhard 169, Puerto Natales
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The Trail Gourmet Bored with 5-minute rice dinners and dried pasta meals? Looking for an alternative lunch? Ready for a healthy, light-weight breakfast suggestion? Is there something that will help you survive cold Patagonian nights in a tent? Yes, yes, yes! Here are a few recipes to spice up your trip. Bill’s Trekkers Breaky For a ‘W’ breakfast for two you’ll need... • 1 box of instant oatmeal (Quaker, Avena Instantánea) • 1 can of Svelty powdered milk. (Don’t go for the cheaper brand. Your breakfast will taste so much better if you just go for Svelty.) • 1 bag of brown sugar, which you can find at the pharmacy. Toss oatmeal in a resealable Ziploc bag and add powdered milk and sugar to taste. In the morning all you have to do is put your cup into the Ziploc bag, add some boiling water, and you’re ready to go for another day. For some variation, take a bag of jam or some dried fruit to flavor up your oats. Wrap It Up For this alternative lunch or cold dinner for two, you’ll need... • 1 pack of integral tortillas, which you can find at Vergel on Blanco Encalada • 250 grams of cream cheese • Aji Pebre (some spicy goodness that you can find the small bottles, next to the ketchup) • 1 pack of Serrano ham • A handful of white raisins (pasas blancas) • A handful of fresh cilantro Mix the cream cheese with some Aji Pebre to taste and spread it on the tortillas. Divide the Serrano ham onto each tortilla, sprinkle on some chopped-up raisins, finish it all off with cilantro, and wrap these bad boys up. Provecho! Candola If you’re in your tent with all your layers on and still freezing your toes off, consider walking up to the refugio and buying a box of wine. For this typical Chilean recipe you’ll need... • A box of wine • Sugar • The skin of half an orange • A couple of sticks of cinnamon • And… to get out of that cozy sleeping bag to put up your stove Mix all the ingredients in a pot, add sugar to taste, and heat until you can just drink it, but the alcohol is still in there. Sleep tight!
Volunteering in Torres del Paine Agrupación Medioambiental Torres del Paine (AMA Torres del Paine) was created in 2004 to address environmental issues and to protect the wilderness within Torres del Paine National Park. The group’s work includes: addressing environmental issues of concern to those who live and work in the park; educating the local community and visitors about the benefits of caring for the environment; trail improvement; improving the ability to respond to fires; and supporting environmental research projects in the Park. Volunteer efforts and donations from the public help support the group’s efforts. To learn more, visit their web site: www.amatorresdelpaine.org
Packing a Punch: Pisco Sour & You In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it’s delicious. There’s a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. You might even taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (Yes, there’s a lot of meat... good luck if you’re a vegetarian!) But you’ll also find good, strong drinks and a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. There are many pisco-mixed drinks out there, piscola (pisco and coke) being one of the most common. Pisco sour is the most popular pisco drink among tourists. It’s a good idea to try pisco sours at different places, because each restaurant or bar has their own touch or flavor. You can even find delicious calafate sour based on the same mix. But you can also make pisco sour yourself, in your hostel or once you get home. Pisco Sour • 3 parts pisco • 1 part lemon juice • Powdered sugar • 1 egg white • Ice cubes Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it’s a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so pucker up and enjoy!
568 Eberhard, Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 412766 reservas@southwindhostel.cl • www.southwindhostel.cl Downtown Puerto Natales, located a half block from the main square.
Call center Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413360
Cerro Castillo - Coffee shop & money exchange ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
I’d love a Jacuzzi facing the sea and the glaciers
and a nice cosy bed
and a cool place to read and a fresh locally brewed beer and some good simple food and a big breakfast with some real expresso coffee and to sleep in without hearing the vaccum cleaner first thing in the morning
HOTEL SPA Ladrilleros105 I Puerto Natales (061) 413 609 I www.indigopatagonia.com
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Baguales, The Land of Wild Horses by Marjan Alkema & Robbie Ruyters
and red formations within the labyrinth of dead-end valleys. At the top of the mountain, we arrived to breathtaking 360° views of the entire area. On one side, we glimpsed a totally different view of the Paine massif. On the other, we could see Fitz Roy in Argentina, the peaks of the Southern Ice Field, and all the stunning U-shaped valleys in between. Beyond a doubt, this is one of the most spectacular vistas Patagonia has to offer.
Boris Radich riding with wild horses. Photo by Magan Radich In many places one can still observe Patagonia as it has been for hundreds of years, without paved roads, electricity cables, urbanization or organized tourism. Sierra Baguales is one of these places, where it is still possible to wander around for days without seeing any signs of human activity. On the way to Torres del Paine, all eyes are focused on getting the first views of the Paine massif, but if you allow your eyes to wander in the opposite direction, the mysterious peaks of the Baguales Mountains come into focus.Though Baguales is so close to Torres del Paine geografically, its geological differences beg to be explored. So, we got a few friends together and decided to rent a car for the weekend and unravel the secrets of Baguales. Heading there, ignoring the side roads to the national park, we soon entered a totally
different world. Thousands of years of glacial erosion have left a unique and impressive landscape, full of big rock pillars that look like giants guarding the mountains. We drove down to Estancia La Cumbre, where we started our exploration on foot by crossing an icy cold river. Being only an hour on our way, we had already crossed paths with a group of wild horses. They gave an even better impression of the enormousness of the mountains. That night we camped at the shores of a little lake fed by a spring coming right out of the mountain. With the silence, the moonlight, and the giants overlooking us, this campsite had a magical beauty. The next day we spent ascending one of the mountains. Climbing up to the cathedral-like pillars, the mountain range revealed more and more of its secrets: bright yellow
How to get there... To get to Sierra Baguales you need your own vehicle, since regular tours to the area don’t exist. From Puerto Natales, follow the road toward Torres del Paine. In an hour you’ll arrive to Cerro Castillo and continue to follow the direction of the Park. Ignore the side roads to Laguna Amarga and Sarmiento. Keep following “La Cumbre.” After passing Estancia/Lodge Cerro Guido, you’ll arrive to a trisection, where you continue on to “Los Leones - 3R – La Cumbre.” In about 20 minutes, you will reach the fence of Estancia La Cumbre. If you want to explore the area a bit more, park your car there and walk down to the river that you’ll follow until the fence. Hop the fence and continue on the other side.
What’s in a name? Bagual - Feral horse, cow, or domestic animal that has broken loose. The word bagual was taken from the Spanish by the Indians to indicate a horse. In the pampas, it was pronounced kawal. The gauchos then borrowed the word from the Indians and transformed it to bagual, indicating a wild animal.
Latitude: 50° 37’ 60 S Longitude: 72° 46’ 60 W
Camino a Bories, Km 0.5, Puerto Natales, Chile (061) 414 168 www.weskar.cl contacto@weskar.cl
A Little History Archaeological studies have confirmed that approximately 5,500 years ago, humans dwelled in Última Esperanza. These first inhabitants belonged to a culture of hunters; Aonikenk (people of the south), Tehuelches, or Patagones, who lived off guanaco, small rodents, and birds. At the beginning of the 20th century, large groups of wild horses settled in the green valleys of the rivers flowing from the Sierra Baguales. Their presence gave the indigenous people reason to frequent the district of Última Esperanza, with the intention of increasing their herds. The Baqueanos arrived in southwestern Patagonia in the middle of the 19th century. These horsemen learned their trade in a harsh apprenticeship with raw experience and Mother Nature being their principal teachers. According to the Argentinian Explorer Carlos Moyano, who visited the area in 1883, the favorite area of the wild horses, which he called “the gully of the baguales,” was a small valley located behind Sierra Guido. This natural paddock led to a narrowing which also allowed for the easy rounding up of the horses. Eventually this valley became the site most often frequented by Indians, cowboys, and hunters--all arriving with the same purpose: to capture animals, and with luck, whole packs of horses. The first settlement began in the spring of 1893 when Rodolfo Stubenrach, acting for Hermann Eberhard, solicited land in Última Esperanza from the Governor of Magallanes, Captain Manuel Señoret. Uruguayan Ramón Contreras also established himself (with a verbal authorization from the governor) in the isolated northern valley of Río Baguales. As a result of the sale of land in 1905 all the estancias established in the previous 12 years, became part of the “Sociedad Explotadora Tierra del Fuego.” This society united the farms into four or five huge sheep estancias, forming a powerful empire that dominated southern Patagonia for more than half a century.
Homemade cuisine, king-crab speciality Dinners and unforgettables sunsets Chilean wines and delicious sours Waterfront restaurant
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Introducing... Río Serrano! Bordered by beautiful Río Serrano itself, and located just outside Torres del Paine National Park, the Río Serrano settlement consists of a few families, who have farmed there for generations, and a handful of services catering to tourists. It’s a stunning place to spend a few hours or several days, enjoying adventures, like horseback riding, boat rides, sea kayaking, trekking, bird-watching, fishing, or just walking along the river and through the valley. Once part of the Asociación Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego, and later part of Estancia Río Paine, this land has been used for herding animals since white man arrived to the region.The Astorgas family has inhabited the valley for at least four generations, starting as caretakers for larger estates and later becoming landowners themselves. Before roads reached Serrano, supplies were brought in on horseback across the pampas. Eventually the northern road to the park reached Río Serrano, but there was no bridge for vehicles to cross the river. Until recently supplies had to be carried across the river via a footbridge (which washed away in a flood) or by rafts, pulled by rope. This is how the materials arrived to Serrrano to build the first hotels. And on more than one occasion, uneven loads caused the rafts to tilt, dumping cargo (vehicle and driver!) into the river. Today Río Serrano retains its peaceful character, even as it expands its tourist facilities,
with new modern camping facilities, expanding hotels, and more activities being offered. But the pace still remains tranquil, or as they say here, “tranqui.”
Torres Del Paine National Park
Track to Pampa & Río Nutria
Rutas Patagonicas
Transfers
Via Terra
Transfers
PRIVADO
Hostería Lago Toro
Hostería & Cabanas Tyndall
Río Serrano
PRIVADO PRIADO
Map: Sector Río Serrano, Torresl Del Paine Not to scale
ong
r rive
Río Serrano
PRIVADO Camping Los Andes
Transfers Camping Horse-Riding Asados Almacen
l ck a Tra
Footbridge (But soon to be removed)
Hotel Río Serrano
Corral
To Administracíon
Cabañas del Paine
Mirador Río Serrano
To Serrano
To Puerto Natales
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r u c k s ac k s & r a i n Waterproofing your pack Water is heavy. A quart of water weighs about two pounds. A rucksack full of rainwater would be impossible to lift. This is why folks buy backpack covers, but they’re expensive. They weigh up to half a pound and usually leave much of your pack exposed anyway. Plus down here in Patagonia, the wind is prone to grab the flimsy cover up like a kite and set it flying. What’s more, they won´t even protect your pack if it takes a dip in a creek or river. Tip: Try lining your pack with a heavy-duty trash bag. A regular garbage bag is fine too, but the thicker the better. The trash bag offers FULL protection for everything in your pack, without having to carry the extra weight of a pricy backpack cover. Just be careful not to rip a hole in the bag while packing. And remember to have the top storage pouch lined at all times as well. When you’re ready to turn in for the night, just pull the plastic bag out of your wet backpack and move it--and your dry gear--into your tent with you. The outside of your pack might spend the night a little wet, but it’ll dry easily when the sun pops out. Next time the clouds open up and dump rain without notice, everyone will scramble to protect their packs. But not you. You’ll be calm as a Hindu cow, knowing all your clothes and gear are wrapped and waterproof safely in a plastic bag.
E L CO N V E NT I L L O HOSTAL - ALBERGUE
Punta Arenas, Chile Pje Korner 1034 Phone +56-61 242311
info@hostalelconventillo.com www.hostalelconventillo.com
Locally owned & operated. Coffee Shop Souvenirs Horseback Rides ovejeropatagonico@gmail.com +56-61-691932 Cerro Castillo - Torres del Paine
4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY
Just Exploring Other Menus by Sarah Anderson in the back rooms is split between the owner and the companion. Some of the back rooms can also be rented out to desperate couples, who are unable to find privacy elsewhere. Incidentally, there are more brothels per capita in Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales than in Valparaiso to the Sells alcoholic beverages. Class C restaurant, dance hall and show north. Being that the two cities are ports partly explains their prevalence, but the history Puerto Natales has an abundance of of the region does a bit of explaining as well. Puerto restaurants, most of which are found in the center Natales started as a sheep rearing area, and the high of town and are often called restarantes de turismo. proportion of males to females ensured the need for However, there are many other restaurants that do brothels. When sheep farming declined, the male not serve meals. Few of these restaurants advertize population branched out into fishing and mining (in their specialities outside. Many of them have curtains Río Turbio across the border in Argentina). Today, permanently drawn and some even have boarded-up there are still more men than women. According to windows or metal shutters. These are actually bars, the 2002 census, there are 10,000 men and 9,000 and the drinks are a lot more expensive than the women in Puerto Natales. ambience justifies, because they come with a female Formerly, the women who worked in the companion who will sit and entertain the drinker. brothels were mainly Chileans. But nowadays, more Most of these bars also have rooms at the back that women from other South American countries are can be rented by the drinker and companion. These coming to work in the restaurants, which reflects a restaurants are, in fact, brothels. change in the economy and more job opportunities Surprisingly, considering the conservative for local women. reputation of Chile, adult prostitution is not expressly A word of warning to the curious... Some illegal although pimping and openly soliciting of these restaurants are definitely not places that are not permitted. A majority of these restaurants gringos should visit, as many of them are frequented function with legal restaurant and bar licenses, hence by rough and ready locals. Magallanes has the the use of “restaurant” in their names. Undoubtedly, second highest incidence of syphilis and hepatitis B there are travelers who have been confused by their infection in the whole country. (A few years ago, names and tried to get food there. the clients of one of the prostitutes in a well-known Some of the restaurants call themselves restaurant were informed of her HIV-positive status bars, and those called night clubs, or boites, are over the radio and advised to come forward for usually trying for a more upmarket clientele, perhaps testing.) Lastly and most worryingly, though child offering shows. Some even advertize on the local prostitution is illegal in Chile, it continues to be a radio stations. The women who work in these serious concern. Some restaurants are known for restaurants must attend regular health clinics in the hiring very young señoritas. hospital, and they must be able to produce a health So, if you come across a restaurant with certificate if the premises are inspected. A percentage its windows boarded up, looking closed, think twice of the money made from drinks sold will be given to before entering. Or be prepared to feast your eyes on the companions. Then, the takings for what goes on a menu with some unexpected items.
Aquaterra Café The sweetest thing
"AQUEDANO
0UERTO .ATALES
Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales www.aquaterrapatagonia.com
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Sincerley, - Shackleton by Max Salas
I was a kid when I first heard about the great leader and explorer, Shackleton. By then I led the normal life of any accommodated Chilean kid from Santiago. I remember I was a lazy boy scout, and a mediocre one to top it off. I was one of those who, wanting to be a leader and stray away from the norm, didn’t support the activities scheduled in the official program, and who, instead always proposed new, crazy, imaginative, and probably dangerous alternatives. It was in the middle of one of the intolerable and excruciatingly boring speeches of our group commander, when I heard the name of the Antarctic hero. I must have been 9 at that time, and the name I shall never forget: Shackleton. When I was not at school, I spent my free days on my uncle’s farm. This place was a fabulous corner of secrets, mysteries, and adventures, but most of all it was the home of my uncle and living idol “Pato,” as he preferred me to call him.He was the one who first invited me to dream of the mysteries of the Egyptian pyramids, the secrets hidden under the Palenque ruins in the Mayan jungle, and the already dream-like stories of writer Ítalo Calvino. Once at dinner, I was telling Pato all my school anecdotes when suddenly I mentioned the name of Shackleton. Just mentioning that name changed my uncle’s expression. It turned out that for him, the voyage of the Endurance was not just another tale of adventure. For him, it was the most extraordinary testimony of human spirit, courage, survival instinct, and leadership. What these words must have represented on the eve of the First World War was a unique sample of mankind’s eternal and beautiful contradictions. That evening Pato talked for hours, and I listened and listened, not bored at all. Since then, Shackleton and his crew became, for me, a reference for adventure, any adventure, and it was probably this spirit of adventure that eventually led me to Patagonia. Many years later, when I was already living in Patagonia, my mother called me from Santiago. She told me that there was an old friend of hers inviting me to stay for a weekend at their old house in Punta Arenas. (As a sidenote, whoever is interested in Patagonia has to learn about this town. Punta Arenas is not a touristy resort, it does not yet provide those common tourist amenities that you find in other places. It is simply the genuine capital of the Patagonian tradition.) The family I was going to visit had left the house many years earlier, but they kept it because of its cultural value. It goes with out saying that I gladly accepted the invitation. It was in July of 2002, in the middle of the southern winter, when I called Don Juan and
Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero
21 de Mayo 1469 Punta Arenas +56-61 241029 remezon@hotmail.com
Doña María the old couple who were taking care of the house. Next thing I knew, there I was, in this incredible house. Not big but tall. Old English architecture, full of books, pictures, paintings, and memories. One night just before dinner, Don Juan came to see me in the living room. “Is everything OK Mr. Salas?” he kindly asked. I told him that I could hardly believe all the things that were in the house. Those books and paintings, the furniture, all this must somehow be the core of Patagonian history. “Yes, it is truly our treasure,” he answered. “I’m glad you can appreciate it, so please, before you leave, remember to sign our guest book. All of our important guests have signed it, and since you can appreciate what is in this house, I guess you deserve to be in the book as well.” Without further comment he passed me an old, heavy, leather-covered guest book. The living room window looked out upon the Strait of Magellan.There was a little tea table with a sofa next to it. With beer in hand, I sat down and carefully started to browse this enigmatic book. Pinochet’s signature was there, and so were those of all sorts of ministers. European aristocrats, millionaires and billionaires mingled with murderers, aborigines, hunters, gold diggers, poets, painters, Nobel Prize winners--in other words, all the fauna that, incredibly enough, is also part of Patagonia. When I looked at the pages at the very beginning of the book, I found a picture with a signature accompanied by a few lines written in the same handwriting and with the same pen... We were the fools who could not rest in the dull earth we left behind but burned with passion for the south, drank strange frenzy from its wind. The world where the wise men sit at ease, fade on our unregretful eyes And thus, across this uncharted seas, we stagger on our own enterprise. July of 1916, Punta Arenas Goosebumps, moisture in my eyes, a shiver down my spine, and a memory that will stay with me for as long as I live. Imagine. My hero, the eternal leader and survivor had written a poem just for me and finally--exactly 86 years later--it was delivered on the shores of the Strait of Magellan. It was, in this very same book I was going to sign, the signature of Sir Ernest Henry Shackelton.
Comfortable Rooms Fully equiped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet and Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Patagonian Drinks Coffee shop José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@gmail.com Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile
Jorge Montt 847 Fono 56-61-222774 Punta Arenas, Patagonia Chilena info@hostalbustamante.cl www.hostalbustamante.cl
Guided water tours of Glacier Balmeceda • Glacier Serrano • Bernardo O’Higgins National Park
A piece of Patagonian history...
Turismo “21 de Mayo” Puerto Natales Patagonia Chile Eberhard 560 • Phone 56-61 614420 • www.chileaustral.com/21demayo • 21demayo@chileaustral.com
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The p erfe ct
trekk ing pa rtn e r ? Traveling is hard. Anyone who says different isn’t a traveler; they’re a tourist. Traveling is the art of dealing with different levels of discomfort. New countries, new lanuages, new rules, new customs, new routines. A traveler’s life and their trip are one in the same, living life while traveling rather than taking a vacation from life. And just like in life there are highs and lows, good times and bad, times where you under-appreciate the good and somehow make through the bad. There’s a cool, unspoken code between travelers: trust. Trust that no one is going to rummage through your backpack in the hostel or that another backpacker will keep an eye on your stuff while you’re in the bathroom. It’s the way of it all. We meet people on the road, talk, share meals, and travel with pure strangers. We constantly use our insticts to get a feel off of the people we meet. In the end, we trust, and we go for it. In this environment, it’s certainly not uncommon to meet another person who also needs a trekking partner. A lot of times these encounters work out, but sometimes they don’t. The best thing
you can hope for is meeting a new friend that will be with you forever, and the worst thing that can happen is you can get hooked up with someone who’s not trustworthy or who is just plain annoying. So how do you choose the perfect trekking partner? How do you tell someone it’s not working out? How do you tell a complete stranger that they’re bugging the crap out of you? These are pretty common problems among backpackers. The big choice... Deciding who you want to trek with is as important to a trip as the itinerary itself. You may have a very specific goal for your trip, or you may just want to spend time with the group. The trick is making sure that everyone is on the same page. We’re all individuals with our individual quirks, and that’s great. But it’s better to find out if your idiosyncrasies mesh before the trip instead of during it. Develpoing a standard trail conduct for the team can usually prevent most problems. Things like diet, sleeping arangments, nudity, wake up times, or even the route are good indicators of how the trip will be. Another important detail is the average pace of the group. One person’s goal
A true Chilean estancia... inside the city limits.
Alma Gaucha Hostel Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 415243 almagauchacl@hotmail.com
H o s t e r i a
L ago del T oro
may be to experience a relaxing spiritual awakening, and another’s goal may be to push themselves physically, reach their limits and surpass them. A pairing like this could cause a problem. After the fact...
...if you have the balls enough to leave mid-trip, then have the balls enough to say why... So what happens when you’re already out on the trail when you realize your new trekking partner isn’t working out? Maybe someone just isn’t fitting in, or maybe it’s you that isn’t mixing well with the team you’ve joined. What then? Option 1. Take the high road. Try to deal with it. Is it really that bad? Can you handle it for the sake of the trip? Just suck it up a little? Option 2 - Talk with your team about what’s got your panties in a bunch, and see if the problem can be solved. Don’t under-estimate the power of peer pressure. There might just be others in the group that feel the same way. Most people will try to overlook problems and not say anything. If you mention what’s bugging you, you may even end up being the hero of the trip. Option 3 - Bail. Get out. Run. But how? How to seperate... If for some reason you know it’s time to call your partnership quits and you’re ready to go your own way (or send somebody else packin’), there are a couple of things you should think about. 1. Safety first. Never leave a partner in a situation where they--or you--may be put in harm’s way. Nobody should ever be left without proper equipment, food supplies, or knowledge. Even if you manage to split the food, fuel, and tents, there is no way to split experience. The group dynamic from the beginning may have lead to the trek or climb was chosen. If the group splits, then some of the less-experienced trekkers may be left without proper leadership. The mountains are no place for assumptions when dealing with safety. 2. No secrets. Never try to depart secretly or run off witout saying a word. And no fake reasons, no lies. Be polite; don’t let frustration or anger get the best of you, but do explain why you’re bugging out of the trip. If you have the balls enough to leave mid-trip, then have the balls enough to say why. This also has to do with saftey. People need to know where you’re going, specifically, and why. There is no room for lies in the wilderness. Let’s try to contain that to the cities.
3. Equipment is often divided among the group. It might not be possible to just take off. Someone could be left holding the stove, while the other has the fuel, and a tent can’t be divided like a chocolate bar. If you have any doubts or a history of wanting to go your own way, you’d better plan for this possibilty in advance. It’s a bit heavier, but you can still trek with a group while staying self-sufficient. Then, at any point, if the pace or your destination changes, you have the freedom to do what you need to do. The perfect trekking partner... No one wants to dump a partner--or be dumped. So what makes the perfect trekking partner, anyway? The list is long and maybe even undefinable, but here are a few tricks you can use to impress the rest of your team... 1.
Have a sense of humor; it’s a trekker’s best friend. But also be aware: There’s always a line between funny and annoying. 2. When it’s time for a water run at camp, grab everyone’s water bottle for a fill up. One big water run saves everyone effort, and it’s a great way to win points. 3. Hide extra treats in your pack to share with the team, or surprise them with a snort of whiskey on day four. 4. Mind your personal hygiene. Enough said. 5. Don’t be the first to complain about foul weather conditions. Don’t be that guy! 6. Be responsible for the distance between you and the person in front of you. It makes people nervous to have someone on their tail. 7. Thou shalt not covet thy neighbors food or gear. Nothing is more annoying than a trekking partner who planned and packed poorly and assumes that the rest of the team will take care of them. Don’t be that guy either! Be the one who brought a little extra toilet paper or dried fruit. 8. Be prepared to carry a little extra. Carrying the garbage bag or the wet tent shows leadership and sets a good example. Before long, everyone will be doing a little extra, creating an upward spiral. 9. Try to avoid gassing out your tent partner. 10. Try waking up before everyone else and not after. Greeting you teammates with a hot drink in the morning is what legends are made of.
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Adventures of Shipoopoi:
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All Three Towers in a Single Push by Steve Schneider
When I came down here in 2002 to climb in Torres del Paine, I’d already had three expeditions in the Park under my belt. The last two trips had been devoted entirely to climbing routes on the Towers. Although I’d been schooled by the weather on a number of occasions, they remained a siren, calling me back to their sheer granite faces. And with the defeats came a few precious summits that challenged me in many ways. Somehow, climbing here just felt right. All those years spent cutting my teeth on the faces of Half Dome and El Capitán in California’s Yosemite Valley had prepared me for the raddest adventures of my life, down here in Patagonia. My climbs in 2002 were no exception. I intended to make a big wall route on Escudo, a huge wall across the valley from the Towers. But my partners didn’t click, and I found myself climbing, interestingly enough, alone for the rest of the trip. My goal changed to attempt to solo all three Towers in a single push. I guess I was too blonde to realize that this was going to be even harder than it looked. But soloing in Paine was a natural extension for me. I’d done it on El Cap, why not here? I would use a rope to protect myself on the harder sections, and then climb ropeless where the terrain relaxed to easier 5th-class climbing. I could have free soloed more, but my head couldn’t handle the exposure, and I couldn’t justify the risk. On my first try, I smoked up the Monzino, the normal route on the North Tower, in just 75 minutes from the Col Bich, the gunsight notch easily visible between the North and Central Towers. The first pitch, or ropelength, had been difficult.The wall soared nearly overhanging during one section of 5.10, where I splayed my legs out wide on each side of a dihedron, taking care not to slip on sections of verglas. But there where lots of pitons, so I’d been able to move safely. Further on, the angle lessened to a point where I didn’t need the rope. I carried it on my back, quickly zigzagging up steep but easy terrain. The summit block of the North Tower is an amazing gendarme, 20 meters high, and overhanging on all sides. Luckily, the Italians, on the first ascent of the peak in 1958, had pioneered a way directly up the front via a series of 5.8 edges. I roped up again, enjoying the security of my fingers on the rough edges. On top I was elated, but I had only just started. The Central and South Towers loomed above, and this traverse looked more vertical than horizontal. I quickly descended and started up the Bonington-Whillans route on the Central Tower, and by nightfall I was about halfway up the climb. I made a bivouac on a ledge, without any sleeping gear, shivering most of the night and awaking to a
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storm. Time to get the hell out of dodge, so I began the long arduous descent in high winds, horizontal snow, and extreme cold that froze my water bottle. When I got back to camp I was hammered from the effort, but exhilirated by the experience. For the next several weeks, this pattern would continue, me throwing myself at the Towers, and getting thwarted by the weather every single try. I learned the nuances of the routes on my first two climbs, so I was able to move faster with less gear, gradually increasing my times on the first two Towers. But I could never get a good two-day weather window. Plus it was dangerous; I had nearly been sliced by rockfall during one of my descents. Yet I felt compelled to keep trying, as if it were my destiny to master this trifecta. I had the feeling that I was like a small pawn in a chess game, and the Towers were the kings and queens, pushing me all around. Finally, it all came together in February of 2002. I banged out the North Tower in 41 minutes, and climbed the entire Central Tower in just 7:19. From here, I began the descent down the other side of the Central Tower, where I made it down just before dusk. For the third time this season, I made an open bivouac, with no sleeping bag or stove. This was a necessary evil of my plan, for if I had taken this extra gear, I would have been forced to slow down to make the traverse. At first light I jumped onto the South Tower, and took the only fall of this climb, a 20-foot tumble into the talus, ripping out a piece of fixed pro. Luckily, I was unhurt, and tried again, climbing a few feet to the right. The first thousand feet of the normal north-ridge route of the South Tower goes up steep, black, intimidating rock, so I had to slow down to be safe. This wall gave way to a low, angled ridge, almost 1,500 feet long, with spectacular views down either side. I measured progress against the Central Tower behind me. I sunk my hands into splitter cracks, and feeling good, moved fast up 5.6 to 5.8 ground. After a few hours it was all over, and I was on top with a dream realized, achieving the climb in 9:25 hours. I still had a long way to get back to camp, but the weather looked good, and I knew I’d be fine. About Steve Schneider... Steve is Puerto Natales’ resident climber. He has been teaching people to climb ever since his dad taught him on the local rocks of Berkeley in the 1960s. Since then, Steve has climbed El Capitán 87 times, served 10 years on the Yosemite Search and Rescue Team, and made groundbreaking first ascents in the most remote areas of the planet, including Pakistan, Mongolia, and Chile. Steve has dedicated his life to the pursuit of climbing and its various forms.
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34 days climbing solo on the hardest route imaginable. It forces us to ask...
...how high is Dave Turner?
By Heather Poyhonen
Dave reaching his next belay station in the middle of a raging storm Dave Turner is a big guy with even bigger plans. That’s what I thought when I met him in December, before he started his solo new route up the east face of Cerro Escudo in Torres del Paine, Chile. With overhanging rock for 1,200 meters, the east face of Escudo is probably the most difficult big wall line in all of South America. There are only three places in the world with these types of VII walls. And none of them have ever been completed by soloing. (Escudo, incidentally, does have one route up its east face, called ‘The Dream.’ The Dream was completed in 26 days by a three-person team, but they never reached the top.) Dave’s gnarly heft up Escudo is historic, the first solo route up a Grade VII ever. When I first talked to him in December, he was all enthusiasm, ready to get on the wall, happy to explain the mad challenge he’d set up for himself and how his crazy dream got started. Dave was 17 when he and his sister moved from San Francisco to Sacramento with their mom. Off-handedly, she mentioned that there was a gym in town with a climbing wall. “‘A climbing wall? A big plastic wall, that sounds kinda gay.’ But I went to the gym to try it out. I really
liked it, and I started climbing seriously when I was 19. Now it seems like I’m always connected to a rope. When I’m not climbing, I’m doing rope work on wind turbines and stuff like that.” Before first coming to Patagonia, Dave was living in Yosemite, climbing various routes up El Capitán and basically preparing himself for Escudo, the mother of bigwall climbs. Dave was ultra-prepared. He’d been psyching himself up to this ever since he found out that he’d won the Lyman Spitzer Climbing Cutting-Edge Grant in January 2007. That month, he traveled to Patagonia to scope out the Park and snap photos of Escudo. Dave returned to Yosemite to warm up for Escudo, soloing three new routes up El Cap, each one taking 16, 18, and 20 days, respectively. He trained physically and mentally, choosing his line up the wall from the photos he’d shot. In explaining how he felt going into the climb, Dave just said, “I’m prepared, and I focus. There are objective hazards, though, things that you can’t control or prepare for: weather, wind, falling rock or ice, a piece of rock that doesn’t hold. But you can minimize your danger by staying in control. I’m not afraid to stop a climb when I think it’s too dangerous, but it’s hard to have that kind of self-control. I’ve lost friends before and it’s usually because they somehow crossed the line of what’s safe and just wanting to finish, no matter what. If you’ve been climbing something for weeks and you’re so close, it’s hard to stop. You’re willing to risk something big. But when you do cross that line, you just have to go all the way.You can’t hesitate or be unsure. If you’re unsure and vstart questioning what you’ve done after you start...
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Photos by Dave Turner
well, you’re dead. You can’t think you’re going to fall, or you will.” A lot of people want to know why Dave prefers to climb solo. He says he moved around a lot when he was a kid, so he had to get used to doing things with few friends. “When I was real young we lived in the woods. I’d just hop on my bike and take my rod out to go fishing. Some people can’t be alone or don’t have fun alone. But I kinda like it. Plus it’s not just two times harder to solo, it’s many times harder.You really have to focus. If you take a big fall and you recover and no one is around to share it with, like, ‘did you see that?’ You just have the whole moment to yourself, and then you continue, really focused. When you climb with a partner, everything is shared, the risk, the reward, everything. But alone everything is magnified; you can’t make any mistakes. And when you reach the summit of a really difficult climb, and you’re all alone, it’s just so amazing. There’s nothing like it. It’s like you cheated--” Dave stops mid-sentence. After having prepared and studied the climb for more than a year, Dave was in Torres del Paine hauling his loads to the base of Escudo. He lugged at least 90% of his heavy loads alone, without porters or horses. Because of the notoriously bad Patagonian weather, Dave planned on spending about 45 days up on the wall. That means he basically had to stock up enough food, water, and gear for two month’s glacier living and climbing. From the hosteria to his base camp was 12 miles, and he hoofed this route 11 times, for a round-trip
Dave’s portaledge camp high up on the overhanging upper wall total of 264 miles of hauling a few hundred pounds. This, just to get ready. On December 23, Dave started his historic ascent. If you’re not up on all the climbing jargon, here’s a brief rundown of the three different climbing styles. Siege style fixes the route from the ground with a string of fixed ropes. Capsule style is a mix using a portaledge, but also with long sections of fixed rope. Then there’s alpine style, Dave’s style. He uses no fixed ropes. “It’s more dangerous, more difficult, and more work, but it’s a bit faster, more efficient, and a better style. One person, one wall,
Ascending the lower pitches on Escudo
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with only the summit as an acceptable outcome.” Dave showed up with two 70-meter lead lines and one double length static haul line. So each one of his pitch lengths was about 70 meters, making the route 24 pitch lengths to the summit ridge, with 15 more on the ridge. He set up his first portaledge camp at the fifth pitch, and he moved camp several times. People invariably ask what Dave did about water. For the first 40% of the route, he could collect snowmelt. After that, he’d survive on the 80 liters of water that he carried with him (allowing for about three liters per day). These could be refilled with snow higher up on the wall. True to the nature of Patagonia, there were several days where Dave couldn’t climb because of severe wind, rain, or snow. He was able to climb just over half of the time, because of the
on the wall. After 34 days and completing the first ever solo of a Grade VII route, Dave wrote on a Supertopo forum: “A few falls were logged when things went wrong, and some blood was lost, but nothing so bad I had to deal with in a desperate way.” He also says that sometimes the steepness of the route gave him a “false sense of security. I thought that everything that fell, or most of it, would fall out from me. I would hear it coming and stop what I was doing and watch it come for me. I would stay quite still and calm, loosen my daisy chain, and then shift to the left or right in my aiders to let it go past. Jokingly I referred to it as dancing. But my portaledge didn’t dance and it took many hits.” The scariest moment happened in the last 10 minutes of the entire climb. “As the last
best climb I have climbed, ever. Pitch after pitch of sustained thin overhanging cracks never ended, and the climbing was on excellent rock in a stunning location. I chose it because it’s the biggest, tallest, hardest, most steep face around.” Not to mention, Dave’s line up Escudo is the longest continuous solo climb in South America. First ascensionists get to name their first ascents. Dave named his route up Escudo, “Taste the Paine,” because you “get a really good taste of the Park when you’re up there for so long. It’s beautiful. Plus it looks like ‘taste the pain.’ Most Americans or other English speakers pronounce ‘Paine’ (PIE-nay) as ‘pain’ before they get here. Also, about two and a half years ago, there was an article with this title by one of the first ascensionists of
The Dream route, which caught my attention.” So, what now? What changes for Dave? “Nothing,” he says. “I’m not trying to make a career out of climbing. If I had enough money to do this myself, I would. The press, the money, they don’t mean a thing to me. For now, I’m going to hang out here [in Patagonia] for a month doing easier climbs. I just did my impossible, so I have to find my next impossible. I stack the odds against myself so it’s guaranteed adventure. I’m coming back in September to climb the south face of the South Tower. It’s the biggest virgin face left in the area.”
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rope on the last rappel was being abused for the last time, it broke. I heard a sick crack, and then I dropped. Luckily after six feet of terror, the belay device stopped me. I looked up to see two meters of exposed core looking me in the face. Then I smelled it. The overheated ATC was burning the core strands through. I had to cut the rappel device off of my harness with my knife. To finish the descent, I was attached with a second belay device and had to use my backup, leaving me with no other backup if something else were to go wrong. I made the ground a few minutes later, thinking light thoughts on the way down with the ridiculously heavy load on my system, and let out a big monkey call when my boots made contact with the glacier. ‘Oh my god, I did it, and lived through it!’” A lot of life happens in 34 days. In the same space of time that Dave spent on Escudo, those of us watching his progress have traveled across the globe and returned, moved houses, changed jobs, hitchhiked the Carretera Austral, the list goes on. But time freezes for Dave when he’s up there. And when he finds himself climbing a pissed-off wall with a blood-filled glove, dancing with fast-falling rock and ice, starting to wonder what the heck he’s doing, he reminds himself, “I’m fulfilling my dream. I put it all on the line, money, life, traveled half way around the world, everything on the line. Which is necessary for a route this big.” In discussing what makes this climb so special, Dave says, “It’s the hardest wall climb that was completed to the summit in Patagonia. I have climbed a fair amount of routes over the years, and hands down this is the most difficult route I have touched. Nevermind the difficulty, this is also the
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bad weather, so he wasn’t tired all the time. If the weather had been better, he would have completed the climb in about 20 days. For the days where he couldn’t really climb, he brought four books, a journal, notes, an ipod, speakers, and two solar chargers. He’d rock out to hip hop with jam sessions drumming on empty water bottles and butter jars. He thought about recording a jam session or two, but says he didn’t want anyone to see. Headphones are out, because on the wall, you have to be able to listen for falling rock or ice. And “icefall happened almost every day. It would rip down the face of the wall, and chunks of it could wipe you off. My hand got hit pretty good by a piece of ice.” He kept climbing after this beating and felt his glove wet. He took the glove off to find it pooling with blood from his hand, which continued to bleed for about 10 days. “No, it didn’t hurt,” Dave answers, “It was more of an annoyance, because it kept bleeding and getting my gloves and clothes bloody. But I had plenty of gloves to change into.” The biggest storm on the wall was around Christmas, summertime in Patagonia. “It left a foot of snow in Silencio Valley and about three meters of snow washed over my portaledge camp. When it rained, you got sheets of water pouring down the face of the wall. When it snowed, the snow would get trapped between the portaledge and the wall, packed real tight. This is what I melted with my stoves to refill my water.” Speaking of Christmas, I ask Dave if he did anything special. He and his mom planned to celebrate together by eating fruit bread with plum jam at the same time, which was 10 p.m. in Chile and 5 p.m. in California. Dave spent Christmas, New Year, and his 26th birthday
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Dave and his ropes hanging out far from the wall, clearly showing its steepness
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Climb the North Tower
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The Other Torres del Paine Locally sold, Patagonia-tested outdoor threads While strolling around the streets of Puerto Natales, Chile, you see a variety of outdoor garments adorning the countless trekkers, climbers, and backpackers passing through town. But take a closer look, because you’ll see a new performance gear manufacturer name, too. One with hometown Chilean Patagonia roots. Torres del Paine® is a burgeoning technical outdoor wear company that’s growing out of the local Natales economy by tapping into the international popularity of the nearby famed (and comparatively named) Torres del Paine National Park. Torres del Paine, the company, was started in Puerto Natales by Patricio Achurra in 2001. He is a seasoned garment manufacturer, and he started running his first clothing outfit with a partner from his native city of Santiago in 1992. A lifetime athlete, but not necessarily an “expeditionist,” he came up with the idea of starting a technical clothing company after admiring two separate Chilean expeditions “race” to summit Mt. Everest. What followed was a dream to localize the outdoor technical clothing industry while increasing the awareness of Chile’s natural splendor. “I wanted well-designed clothes for the best athletes,” he says. “And drawing attention to the Park’s beauty, I can’t deny.” Known simply around town as “Pato,” he works in close conjunction with Puerto Natales’
most seasoned outdoor enthusiasts to test equipment measurements and durability. Andrew Tubbs, an adventure racer who ran the circuit trek of the park in record time, was one of the gear guinea pigs. “For technical running gear, it has a superior fit to other brands,” says Tubbs. During training sessions in the Park, it stood up to heavy rain and harsh winds, allowing for peak performance. From the company’s inception, Pato has placed an huge emphasis on quality. His first fleece jackets were constructed with industry leading materials like Polartec; the warm, yet breathable weave that maintains its softness trek after trek. However, Pato lacked the experience and knowledge to design form fitting garments. Like any beginner, he looked to the best for inspiration. The cuts and designs of mega manufacturers like Patagonia and Mountain Hardwear became basic templates for his gear until he formulated an approach of his own. “Athletes can be sure they have the best,” says Pato. Pato is optimistic about the future of his company. This year’s jacket designs were modified for a sleeker fit, and the quality of manufacturing continues to improve.“Each year’s design is a constant improvement,” sportswear tester extrordinaire Tubbs says. Moreover, he constantly seeks out better materials, hoping to make his company’s name synonymous with technical superiority. He is working with Event, a new fabric that is said to breathe three times more than GORE-TEX. “It’s
by John Pomietlasz
The ‘Towers’ at dawn the future of the company,” says Pato. With Patagonia’s acclaim, and the popularity of Torres del Paine flourishing, Pato feels he has the potential to assume a solid position in the international industry. Coming from the lands of Patagonia, locals acknowledge that the brand is home-grown. More people around town are wearing the gear and Pato has official clothing test teams. “I want this company to grow out of and represent this town,” says Pato. “I hope guides and companies based in Patagonia choose Torres
del Paine® so we can have a better show of what Patagonia means to us.” If you are curious and want to learn more about the roots and beginnings of Torres del Paine or Pato, visit him at the store, Baquedano 622. Check out the threads, chat with the designer himself, and bring home a sporty, warm souvenir with a cool logo that really says you were here. In Patagonia. In Torres del Paine. You can also contact the store at (56-61) 614310 or info@torresdelpainestore.cl.
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Puerto Natales y el Reciclaje Como cámara de turismo continua la preocupación de iniciar acciones aún más efectivas en torno al reciclaje, el esfuerzo del empresariado no es suficiente; debemos unirnos con el sector público y avanzar con iniciativas efectivas. ¿Por qué el reciclaje en nuestra ciudad es una de las tareas prioritarias? Porque sabemos que el reciclaje es considerado uno de los resortes propulsores del proceso de desarrollo sustentable, con reconocidas ganancias en las dimensiones económica, social y ambiental. En este sentido, ampliar la concienciación sobre su importancia es un primer y esencial paso, y practicar el reciclaje sustentable todavía se mantiene como un inmenso desafío. Desde el punto de vista de las empresas, el reciclaje presenta claros beneficios al negocio. Procesos productivos ecoeficientes generan ahorro de energía y de materia prima, además de mejorar su imagen ante sus clientes. No debemos olvidar que... Producir un tonelada de papel (a partir de papel reciclado) significa... • Economizar 80% de agua • Economizar 62% de energía • Generar 92% menos contaminantes atmosféricos y del agua • Un tonelada de papel reciclado significa
Ban the Plastic Bags
economía de al menos 17 árboles (exóticos!) Producir un tonelada de vidrio (a partir de vidrio reciclado) significa... • Evitar la extracción de 603kg de arena, además de otros materiales • Economizar 30% de energía eléctrica • Generar 20% menos contaminantes atmosféricos • La energía economizada con el reciclaje de una botella de vidrio es suficiente para mantener encendida una lámpara de 100 W durante cuatro horas Producir un tonelada de latas de aluminio (a partir de latas recicladas) significa... • Evitar la extracción de 5 toneladas de bauxita • Economizar de 4 a 6 toneladas de petróleo • Economizar 95% de energía eléctrica • Con el reciclaje de una lata de aluminio se economiza lo suficiente para mantener encendido un televisor durante 3 horas ¡Unete a nuestra campaña, necesitamos más voluntades!
Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza les da la bienvenida y les desea un buen viaje
Littered plastic bags blown asunder, blighting the landscape along Dumuestre Road If you weren’t catching up on your shut eye on the bus when you arrived to Patagonia, then you likely saw the horrific plastic bag graveyards around the major cities and towns. Thin, flapping bags wave from just about every bush that’s big enough to catch some wind. These plastic monsters are distributed with every single article you buy in these parts, their sizes adapting to the size of your purchase. Every succulent piece of fruit, every toothbrush, or postcard you buy will come enveloped in plastic, unless you object. An average weekly visit to the supermarket adds about eight new plastic bags to your collection. Looking at the plastic flags littering the landscape, one might think that folks make a sport of getting as many bags as they can just to see how
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Phillipi 600, mod.28. Pueblito Artesanal www.camaraturismoue.com camaraturismoue@yahoo.es - Fono 415721
The Art of the Silversmith: Visit the Taller del Arbol Workshop in Natales Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop,Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318 While traveling in Patagonia, it’s easy enough to find a typical souvenir for yourself or a loved one. But if you want to bring home a real piece of Patagonia, made by good people, who live, work, and play locally, go talk to Ricardo and Felipe. Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, Taller del Arbol store owners and artist silversmiths have been working together, on and off, since 1985. Their partnership is the result of a series of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to the
next, until there you are, not entirely sure how you got there and not having planned for where you end up. They describe the craft of the jewelry maker: “Any material is valuable if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it.” And that is just what they do. When talking about the importance of passion in his work, Ricardo explains he has “to keep changing to keep the passion in [his] work. Somehow, you have to conserve part of the passion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to produce more work.” And you see this all over Taller del Arbol, the first silversmith shop in Puerto Natales. Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work. Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery. They work with anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, you name it.You can find them in the store with a red door, Eberhard 318, with the hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, Monday-Friday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.
far the wind will kite them. A project to eliminate plastic bags from Puerto Natales stores has been in the works, started by Enviu Foundation and Fundación Patagonia. They started a campaign to give out firm, reusable bags instead of flimsy plastic ones. But there has been some trouble getting this project off the ground. A better idea to help reduce the amount of plastic bags distributed every day is to simply BYOB. Bring your own bag or backpack to carry your purchases around town. If every tourist refused plastic bags, it would significantly reduce the landscape trash. Then, would be only a matter of cleaning up the graveyards to once again enjoy the flowering calafate and mata bushes surrounding these pretty Patagonian cities.
Welcome to the world of Adventure. Welcome to Patagonic People Adventure. Bulnes 280 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412014 www.patagonicpeopleadventure.com The warmest place in the coldest spot of the world.
Las Carretas HOSTEL
Galvarino 745, Puerto Natales, 56 61 414584 www.portalmagallanes.com/lascarretas
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Patagoniax Café & Books
vegetarian. juices. shakes. cakes
Patagonia. It’s yours.
FREE
Are you being herd?
Delicious, real, organic coffee and espresso. Kick back and enjoy the cozy atmosphere. Open all day
Write us with your comments, stories, discoveries, praises, gripes, & photos.
8am to 10:30pm
B. Encalada 226 Pto. Natales - Ph. 414725 info@patagoniax.com
Zero
editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
2 CO
What is the greatest adventure that you could ever imagine? Driving across Asia, sailing around the world, hitch-hiking South America? Regardless of how you define adventure, it is essentially why we are all here in the Patagonia. Land of incomparable beauty and homebase for countless adventures. For Americans Jake Spero, John Witherspoon, Duncan Sisson, and Sam Skrocke, adventure is a way of life, and their latest mission has turned out to be their greatest. These four decided that their supreme adventure would be to cross the Americas on their bicycles; from Prudoe Bay, Alaska, to Ushuaia, Argentina. Wow. Most of us get tired after running for an hour in the mountains. Even more impressive, this journey of nearly 26,000 km. has been totally unsupported. Just four men, four bikes, and four trailers to carry their gear. As of February 10, 2008, less than eight months after setting out, all four have crossed the finish line. Jake remembers the moment they reached the finish line:“At about 11 p.m., we came up over a ridge and saw the lights of Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. It was beautiful. That day, we had ridden 137 miles to get there.
el Living La Plaza. Pto Natales
Fono: 56-61 410429 EBERHARD 226 PUERTO NATALES
Tapas wine bar. sofas. book exchange
Alaska to Ushuaia
It was a somber moment... a special time I will never forget. We had been seeking Ushuaia in our minds and with our bikes for almost three years, since we first decided we would set out on this trip. Still, I can hardly believe it is over.” So why should you, the Patagonian traveler, care about these four guys? First of all, because you may run into them. Despite various plans after crossing the finish line, these Americans will be spending some time in the southern reaches. Just look for the gringos with bugs in their teeth and legs of steel. Basically, I’m sharing this story because these guys inspire others to seek adventure, and to do it right. Not only have these four crossed the Americas on the ultimate touring vehicle, but they have done so for a good cause. Their fundraising has created a school in Nicaragua, and undoubtably inspired many along the way. Adventure and altruism: all rolled up into one magnificent life journey. Bien hecho. To see photos, read reports on the journey, and get involved with future projects, visit their web site: www.bikingforabetterworld.org
your taste buds
MOUNTAIN GEAR RENTAL EQUIPMENT INFO BY LOCAL GUIDES
by Jeramiah Schwartz
Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge in the City by the Bay. Photo by Ryan Salm
Isla Morena - Hosteria, Resto & Bar
La cocina de la casa del sur con un toque original. Tasty, traditional Patagonian food, with a personal touch... Salmon, hake, pejerrey, seafood, pastas, homemade pizzas. Dinner from 18.30-23.30 To m á s R o g e r s 3 8 P u e r t o N at a l e s, Pat a g o n i a . 6 0 m e t e r s f r o m t h e P l a z a d e A r m a s. P h : 4 1 4 7 7 3 . w w w. i s l a m o r e n a . c l
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Sobre la Patagonia Se Ha Escrito Mucho II
HOTEL ALCAZAR Balmaceda 722 • Puerto Natales • 412889 hotelalcazar@gmail.com
por Max Vergara
Una de las tantas riquezas de esta zona se encuentran entre las hojas de los diferentes libros que nos cuentan sus aventuras, vivencias y experiencias en torno a este pedazo de tierra que es tan especial. La prolífica producción literaria es maravillosa. Es un placer entrar a cualquiera de esas tiendas de libros y enfrentarse a tanta variedad de temas, fotos, generos, ediciones y portadas. No creo que exista otra región de Chile que concentre tanto material literario en el cual se refleja tan bien a su gente, sus paisajes y su historia. Para conocer bien a esta Patagonia simplemente hay que leerla (y caminarla y conversarla también). Una forma de introducirse en la historia Patagónica, conocer sus orígenes, sus raíces, es leyendo los varios libros que existen a modo de resumen. Esta vez me voy a detener en dos libros que son especialmente fáciles de leer, completos e interesantes. Lamentablemente la historia de nuestra Patagonia está manchada de sangre. No solo la sangre de los indígenas riega estas tierras, primeros habitantes de la región, que fueron cazados y exterminados por el solo hecho de no ser como los occidentales que vinieron a poblar esta tierra. Desde un comienzo de la historia moderna de Punta Arenas y Ultima Esperanza, el inicio fue oscuro y sombrío. En el siglo XIX, dos grandes acontecimientos, sublevaciones y motines, derramaron la sangre de los pioneros y primeros colonos del fin del mundo. “Cambiazo, el Ultimo Pirata del Estrecho” es un libro escrito por Armando Braun Menéndez, donde se relata la historia de este convicto que, el 17 de noviembre de 1851 levanta a un grupo de amotinados y se toma lo que en esa época era el penal de Punta Arenas. Cerca de 300 hombre fueron guiados por este ser, un hombre de inconcebible crueldad y sadismo, asesino desalmado, borrachín pendenciero, ladrón y codicioso. Una vez dominado el Cuartel de la Guarnición y tomado el control de la ciudad.
apresaron a las autoridades locales, menos al gobernador Muñoz Gamero, que alcanzó a huir junto al párroco de la colonia. Las correrías y pillerías de estos piratas casi llevan a la ciudad a la destrucción total. Por mientras el gobernador Muñoz Gamero había escapado en un bote que lo había arrastrado hacia Tierra del Fuego y ahí tuvo que luchar contra los constantes ataques de los indígenas de la zona. Valientemente decidió volver a la colonia, donde fue apresado y después fusilado. Aquel motín fue la pesadilla de media generación. Cambiazo fue fusilado en Valparaíso en 1852 a la vista del público en el Cerro de la Cárcel. En fin, el relato del libro es muy ameno, ágil y mantiene el interés en cada una de sus 292 páginas y además contiene interesantes detalles, descripciones, fotografías e ilustraciones de cómo era la vida en Punta Arenas en esa época. Otro libro de Braun Menéndez es “El Motín de los Artilleros,” donde relata la sublevación de un grupo de desertores, que el día 11 de noviembre de 1877, dieron comienzo a la matanza, violación y destrucción de la colonia con un llamativo tiro de salva para poner en aviso a todos que la “fiesta” había comenzado. Tres días de borrachera, saqueo y matanza nuevamente marcaron a la población, que debió escapar aterrorizada a los bosques cercanos a la ciudad y permanecer ahí escondidos bajo una lluvia que no paró de caer. Dublé Almeyda era el gobernador de esa época. El logró escapar hacia el Seno Skyring, donde fue recogido por la Corbeta Magallanes y así regresó a la colonia y puso fin a esta sublevación. Nuevamente el relato fluye generando interés página tras página, con descripciones que son un reflejo a lo que realmente fue el vivir de los primeros colonos. Altamente recomendable para gente que gusta de la historia y de viajar en el tiempo.
...with all private bathrooms Tu publicidad puede estar aquí!! Llámanos al cel. 77090141 o escríbenos a sales@patagoniablacksheep.com
www.cormorandelasrocas.com
On the corner of Magallanes and Señoret in Puerto Natales Ph: 56-61-413723 • cormorandelasrocas@gmail.com
Hosteria Tunkelen Cerro Sombrero, Tierra del Fuego The only real rest stop between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia.
Arturo Prat 101, Cerro Sombrero, TdF, Chile - Phone 56+61 296696 or 56+61 212757 - hosteria_tunkelen@hotmail.com
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Getting Out of Natales by Bike
FREE views from the window
el Living. La Plaza. Pto Natales.
In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far away” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera. If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the Park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “El Camino a Dumestre”). You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless ly they careen by the sea. The farther you get,
the greater your view of the different mountains will be. On a clear day, you’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Peninsula. If you come prepared, you can even camp along the beach.The law in Chile states that no one can own the edges of the ocean, fjords, or lakes. A two-day bike ride, with all your kit, is a great way to see a quieter (and cheaper) Patagonia. Puerto Natales claims some of the best views in Chile and should not be missed. Biking south, out of town, will serve you an unforgettable helping of eye-candy. If this sounds nice, but you’re still unsure, ask yourself this simple question:When do you think you’ll be back?
Getting Out of Natales on Foot Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? Love Puerto Natales and planning on staying here? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two-hour hike up Cerro Dorotea, definitely on the top of the list of activities around here. Pack up your camera, hail a local taxi, and ask them to take you to Mirador Dorotea. You should be able to swing a deal with the taxi for about 5.000 pesos to drop you off and pick you up again a few hours later. Or, if you’re not in a rush, you can just hitchhike. It’s a 15-minute taxi ride to the southern side of Dorotea. When you arrive, you’ll have to
pay the woman who lives in the house there about 3.000 pesos. This gives you permission to cross her property, and assures that a light meal with tea will be waiting for you when you return from hiking up the hill. Boot it on up the trail. It’s well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point, you catch a great view of Natales and Seno Última Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif and surrounding mountains is gorgeous. After exploring the ridgeline, head back down to enjoy your lunch and chat with the property owner.
open 12.30- 01.00
Fresh Produce in Natales! Delicious, Organic & Local
by Sarah Anderson
Drinks & coffee with a view
L a d r i l l e r o s 1 0 5 - w a t e r f r o n t - Pu e r t o Na t a l e s - t e l . 0 6 1 6 1 5 7 3 0
open 12.30-15.00, 18.30-22.30
The sea & food restaurant
L a d r i l l e r o s 1 0 5 - w a t e r f r o n t - Pu e r t o Na t a l e s - t e l . 0 6 1 6 1 5 7 3 0
Sra. Irma del Carmen Barria Barria in her market garden stall. Sra. Irma has been growing vegetables in Puerto Natales for 32 years. At first she sold her produce from door to door, but now has a small stall. Fancy some leafy organic local produce? Well, take yourself to the end of Baquedano (next to the pueblo artesanal). Here, you will find the “huertos ladies” selling their produce, which by necessity is grown organically. These market gardeners grow their produce in the “Huertos,” an area just outside Natales to your left as you are heading toward Punta Arenas. There are seven to eight different stalls, all selling locally grown produce. Each year, with the help of government grants, they are expanding the variety of their produce
and increasingly able to supply local restaurants and hotels with local products. They are usually only open in the mornings from 10-1 p.m. Some of the stalls also open on Sundays.They are currently selling carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, green beans, sugar snaps, broad beans, gooseberries, courgettes (zucchinis), cabbage, Swiss chard, coriander, parsley, with spinach, basil, and rhubarb occasionally available.You’ll also find homemade jams and free-range eggs. Support these local women, and buy some lovely fresh greens!
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Breaking Through: Women Outdoor Adventurers by Miho Aida
Patagonian Spirit
Bulnes 622 & Bulnes 555 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 410931 & 415860 miriamparra_s@hotmail.com
Restaurant Cote Marchant, the only female kayak guide in Puerto Natales, paddling in Última Esperanza Think of one thing you enjoy doing outside. Now think about how you got into it. Most people have role models: parents, siblings, friends, teachers. Or they find role models through the media. I work for the Headlands Institute, a nonprofit environmental education organization near San Francisco, California. We try to make multicultural connections in everything we teach, using diverse environmental models, so our students can relate and be inspired. The more you see role models who you can relate to, the more you believe that you have the same potential. There are many ways that people make connections to nature. I, for example, have developed a deep connection to the natural world through outdoor adventures like climbing, surfing, and backcountry skiing. So I read magazines such as “Climbing,” “Surfing,” and “Outside.” to see what’s up with these communities and activities. It didn’t take me long to wonder why all the athletes always look the same. They’re mostly all male. It’s even harder to find female athletes of different origins, colors, abilities, ages, shapes, and sizes. Does this mean that we don’t have as many female outdoor athletes? Or do we just not see them? These publications send an important message, whether intentional or not, that these sports are inaccessible to many people, especially women. But there are lots of diverse women outdoor athletes from around the world who are waiting to have their stories be told. I’m working as that that person, the adventure photographer, who tracks down these women and shares their images and their stories. Adventurers come in two genders, in many different colors, and from many different backgrounds. And people from all walks of life should be able to see themselves in wilderness sports. I’m hoping to demystify outdoor adventures to women and men. I came to Puerto Natales, Chile, to look for women sea kayakers. I asked around town, and heard the name, Cote Marchant, from several people. She is supposedly the only woman sea kayaking guide in town. I visited her at Indomita, the kayaking company where she works. She listened to my project goals carefully and asked, “How can I support your project?” I was soon signed up for a day trip to Fjord Eberhard to see her work for the next day. A few days later, I was on another trip, an overnighter to Glacier Balmaceda and Río Serrano. This provided me a bigger picture of what it’s like to be a kayaking guide, because there’s a whole other element of taking care of people off the water. I listened to her, as I helped her set up a camp, prepare
meals, wash dishes, move heavy kayaks, and put away equipment. “It’s not that I can’t do it, I can do the same thing, but not in a same way [as men].” Her story is truly inspiring, especially for those who grew up in big cities with limited access to outdoor adventures. “I’m not blaming my parents for not giving me the opportunity,” said Cote. “If I ever have my own children, the first thing I am going to teach them is how precious it is to have this beautiful world around us. I would tell them that this is the best thing you have and one of the best teachers in life.” Cote tirelessly worked to break the mold against women in outdoor sports, while establishing her place as a sea kayaking guide at Indomita. “The ways [women] do things is different,” says Cote.“Our thinking process and logic are different. Women can better understand how hormones and emotions affect your days, for example. This is the reason why I think it would be easier to work with women.” Not only would it make Cote’s work easier, but I also think women guides can connect with women clients at a different level, providing a safe place for them to make mistakes and challenge themselves without feeling intimidated by a male presence. (Though, of course, many of you ladies have no problem with this!) My friend, Erik, who has taught many climbing courses at NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School), once told me that whenever there was a female climbing instructor, he observed that the female students climbed better. He thinks it’s because people learn better from someone who’s like them, someone who moves, thinks, and does things similarly, and who shows you how. “I am trying to start something to motivate women to join me in the guiding community by talking to the Asociación de Guías Última Esperanza (a guide association of Última Esperanza Province). Kayaking might be difficult because it is such demanding work. You have to be certified, take care of people, always dealing with weather and lifting weight. But I want to see more women join me, and I want to create some support for those who want to try,” says Cote. Just as many pioneer outdoor athletes-women and men--have paved the road for those to follow, Cote has certainly created a path for other women to follow her here in Puerto Natales. When I come back to Puerto Natales to paddle with her in the future, I hope I’ll find her with more women in the field.
Bar Café Happy Hour
torres del paine
Sun. thru Tue. 7pm-12am
tested in patagonia
Wed. thru Sat. 7pm-10pm
O’Higgins 1021 Punta Arenas, Chile Tel 245851 jekus.patagonia@gmail.com
New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310
The Milodon Laundry Service
Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Closed Sundays. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales
Hotel Posada Tres Pasos Your country hotel...
Tel:(56) (2) 1969630
reservas@hotel3pasos.cl
Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile
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Pucón, Chile • Q&A Is there a night life in Pucón?
Are there shops for outdoor clothing?
Absolutely, there are numerous bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.
Yep, and you can find some of the big names and quality-made local stuff too.
When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano? All year round, but winter is the best time if you want smaller crowds.
Can I get my hiking boots or backpack repaired?
There are three runs, the most exciting being the upper Río Trancura, with class III and IV rapids, depending on the time of the season. The lower Trancura is tamer but still class II-III in most places. You can also do a longer trip of a couple days on Bío Bío through various companies in town.
Is the volcano active?
When’s the best time to go rafting?
In 1984, but that was nothing major. The time before that was 1974, and 24 people were killed.
It all depends on the weather and amount of rainfall, but generally speaking, the season is from late September to early April. For the upper Trancura, you’ll have to wait till around December. And remember during the height of the season (about December-February), the rapids can get pretty crowded.
You bet, it’s smoking 24-7, not unlike some people we know, but that is a good thing. It means the volcano is venting. If it stops smoking, then it’s time to start worrying.
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Calle Holzapiel
Pedro de Valdivia Iglesia Parroquial Santa Cruz
Is transportation to the trailheads available? If you use a guide, tranportation is included, but taxis can get you there, too. It’s about $5 USD to go by taxi to the park entrance.
Colo Colo
Geronimo de Alderete Capitania de Puerto
Can I drink the water in the Park without treating it?
Museo Mapuce
L a Po za
General Basilio Unutia
Go right ahead, drink all you can and enjoy the experience.
Av Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins
Mapuche, and they are very proud of their heritage. They really gave the Spanish a run for their money back in the day.
Brasil
ei to G er ob
What is the winter like?
Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area? In case of a backcountry emergency, contact the Carbiñeros de Chile. They will organize the 50 or more guides, who live in Pucón and are always ready to lend a hand to their fellow outdoor enthusiasts.
Parque de los Patagones
Cave paintings and cultural attraction site horario: 7.30 a.m - 8 p.m. fono (56-61) 225312
A 2kms de la Cueva del Milodón
Iglesia Jesus de Nazaret
Eschoroenle L.A. Ulloa
Cemetario
Zacarias G Ramon Guinez
Monasterio Santa Clara
Av Las Araucarias
Arauco
Palguin
Hospital San Francisco
Anscrena
Lincoyan
Fresia
Uruguay
Caupolican
ne ra R
Super chill. It’s a great scene for winter sports with fewer crowds, and it’s such an incredible experience to ski or board on an active volcano.
a
Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?
bi m
No, there’s no camping fee, but it’s restricted around the volcano. Remember, it is an active volcano!
lo Co
Do I need a permit to camp in the Park?
Yep, it’s about $8 bucks.
ss
What are the local indigenous people called?
There is a small hospital in town with an X-ray machine, and there are a few dentists to choose from. Anything serious is treated in Temuco, about an hour and a half away by car.
www.patagonia-etnias.cl
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Plenty, with some great views of the volcano, just ask around in town about where to go.
What if I need a doctor or dentist?
There is a nine-hole course on the peninsula, and you can rent a set of clubs in town.
G ya Pla
L a g o Vi l l a r r i c a
Are there any good day hikes in the area?
Is there an entrance fee to the Park?
Is there a golf course nearby?
ll Ca e nd
When was the last time it erupted?
Nearly everything is within walking distance, and what isn’t is just a short taxi ride away.
Just a few blocks from the center of town, you can soak up all the UV you want, just don’t forget the 45 SPF block.
´ Centro Pucon
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ta
Can I see the town on foot?
Temuco, about two hours away by bus.
Co s
Most outfitters have everything you need for the activity you want to participate in, and the gear is usually included.
Where is the closest airport?
There are good maps available in town for just a few bucks.
Aside from visiting the Volcano and rafting, you can enjoy the amazing scenery on horseback, paragliding, or parachuting. Fly fishing is also very popular here, and you can book boat fishing tours. Keep in mind that all fishing is catch and release.
Can I rent gear in town?
Of course, all that stuff is available in town.
Can I get a good map of the trails in Villarrica National Park?
What else can I do around here?
You can’t pitch a cat without hitting a hostel in Pucón.
What options are there for public transport? Plenty, there are buses between the nearby town of Villarrica and Pucón about every 15 minutes as well as taxis and colectivos.You can also rent a bike for about $10 USD for the day.
If your pack’s broke, you’ve come to the right place. There are places that can solve most gear-related problems.
Where is the best white water rafting?
Are there hostels close to the bus station?
Can I buy white gas and other backpacker essencials in town?
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Puerto Montt, Chile • Q&A Is it easy to change foreign currency? Yes, most banks will change dollars and/or euros and there are many exchange shops called “cambios” where you can change your foreign currency. Can I use my travelers checks or ATM card? You bet, the travelers checks are a great way to go and can be cashed at all the banks, also the ATM card is another great option, since most banks have a machine on the Cirrus network and make the currency exchange for you automatically. What times of the day are the shops and restaurants open? Most shops are open Monday thru Friday from 09:00 to 13:30 and then close for lunch until about 15:00 and then remain open until around 19:00. Saturdays, from 09:00 to 13:00. Banks are open Monday thru Friday, 09:00 to 14:00. Where can I buy handicrafts? About 2 km. from the city center, you will find Caleta de Angelmo, home to a variety of handmade items, including wool sweaters, alpaca clothing, and leather items. Can I take a tour by boat? Sure, you can visit an island nature preserve in the area of Caleta de Angelmo. Just ask around near the Navimag dock for times and prices. Where can I get the best seafood? You’ll find a variety of restaurants in the area of Caleta de Angelmo with great seafood selections at reasonable prices. Is it customary to tip? In Chile, in general, it is customary to tip 10% of the total of the bill at restaurants. When using a taxi it is okay to leave the small change. Will I have problems to communicate with my country of origin?
How should I dress for the climate? If you go in spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for the good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather. Is Puerto Montt safe? For the most part, Pto. Montt is a quiet city with few incidents of urban violence, but be smart and leave the bling-bling at home and use the buddy system when heading out to enjoy the night life.
Will I have any problems with drinking water or food? In general, the water supply is safe, but just to stay on the safe side and keeping in consideration how far you are from home, stick to the boiled and bottled water. As for the food, use your own judgment and avoid the places that don’t look up to your standards of cleanliness. Also, if you are not used to eating a lot of seafood and shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.
Blue Green Adventures www.bluegreenadventures.com
Can I use my credit cards? Sure, go ahead and charge it. Most businesses in the city center will accept the major credit cards, but as you get into the outskirts of the city and in some of the smaller businesses, you may have difficulties. If you should lose your credit cards, contact the following numbers: (2) 631-7003 for Visa International and Mastercard International, (2) 232-0000 for Diners International and 800-201022 for American Express.
You shouldn’t have any problems, there are call centers throughout the city where they have internet and the city has a public phone network that enables you to make local and international phone calls with coins and special phone cards. Also, most hotels, for a surcharge, will let you make international calls. Who do I contact in case of an emergency? You can contact the police (carabiñeros) by dialing 133 and an ambulance at 131, or you can go directly to the central police station at Guillermo Gallardo 519.
el SOSIEGO HOSTEL
Torres del Paine
Trekking programs Departing weekly 990 USD
Bulnes 1200 Puerto Natales, Chile
L AU N D RY S E RV I C E S TO R E • PA R K I N G Miraflores 798, Puerto Natales Phone 74502944 / 83169151 www.chamorromilosevic@yahoo.es
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Learning Spanish While Traveling Not only is traveling by bus economical, but it also gives you the chance to really see where you’re going. This is how I’m traveling from Puerto Natales to Bariloche, Argentina, to take two weeks of Spanish classes at La Montaña. It’s a long overnight trip, but in coche cama, the trip’s not as trying as it sounds. It’s like being on a plane: You get a meal, a pillow and a blanket, and a whole lot more space. Tonight I’m sleeping in an overnight bus again, and I wake up about three hours before we’re scheduled to arrive to Bariloche. The sunrise outside is so beautiful, illuminating the mountains and the lush green forests. I’m very happy to be here! In Bariloche I take a city bus downtown to find my hostel. While taking classes at La Montaña, you have the option to stay with a host family or in a hostel. Living with a family should be more intense and give me more practice speaking and listening to the Spanish language, but a hostel would be fun and provide a little more freedom around the busy school schedule. I decide to stay in a hostel for the first week and then see if I can pull off living with a family. The first thing I notice walking into class on Monday morning is that everybody is so happy to be in school. The teachers look like they’re just back from a long vacation, and they have a lot of energy. This is great! I join up with two other students and we introduce each other. Right away the teacher sees that my level of Spanish is not very common. I moved to Chile a couple years ago without speaking a word of Spanish. Now I know quite a few words but my grammar is awful. They really want me to get as much as I can out of these two weeks and offer me private lessons until they can hook me up with another class more my level. I gladly accept, and I
Si tu destino es El Calafate, Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...
Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306 www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar
by Ellen Mesdag
feel happy to be in a place where they care so much. It’s very motivating! During the 4-hour morning classes, we fly through the material. The school does offer privite lessons, but when I signed up I didn’t think I needed them. But now that I’ve ended up with private lessons, I realize how nice it is to have a teacher all to yourself. You don’t waste any time. In the afternoons we do various activities. We go bowling, salsa dancing, wine tasting, and we can help with volunteer projects that the school has.We play a card game called Truco, and during all of it, the students get to know each other. We talk freely and excitedly, because we’re all in the same boat, not knowing anybody. The days go by fast and I realize that submerging myself in the Spanish language is the best way to learn. At times I have these little ‘clicks’ in my head when for a moment the language finally makes sense. Wauw! For my second week I move in with my Argentine family, a big family with grandparents, parents, kids, and grandkids. Every evening meal is like a party where everybody talks and laughs like they haven’t seen each other in ages. It’s easy to feel at home here, and it feels pretty neat to join in conversations and understand what they’re saying. Every morning I drink máte with my Argentine mom. And when I walk to school, I wonder why I didn’t take this course two years ago. I think about where I’ve been and how difficult it was for me to feel comfortable with English when I lived in the States, even after years of English classes in The Netherlands. But now I’m walking into class with only three days left, and I’m planning to enjoy every moment of it.
El Calafate vs. El Chaltén El Calafate
El Chaltén
With its variety of food and lodging, Calafate is a town designed for tourism. You can rent a car, buy groceries, and visit the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. For a broader view of Calafate, veer off the main road to quieter streets, such as Moyano or Gregores.You’re likely to stumble upon interesting shops, such as that of Raul Martinez and Paula Maza, who gather objects from nature to make original art (Calle Ezekial Bustillo, high season). There’s no shortage of restaurants in Calafate, but the prices are anything but cheap. La Mina is open early for breakfast until late at night. With an ecclectic mix of music and rustic old mining photos, you might find yourself lingering there long after your last sip of wine or coffee. At bustling Casablanca, sink your teeth into something healthy, like a brown rice salad with colorful veggies. Viva La Pepa boasts bright décor, fresh flowers, and a shady setting, a refreshing place to enjoy sweet or savory crepes, crisp salads, or fresh-fruit smoothies. To savor a traditional meal, visit La Tablita, serving Patagonia since 1964.Their asados can’t be beat, and they offer plenty of vegetarian options to boot. For lunches that won’t break the bank, swing by the deli at Anonimo Supermercado, which offers ready-to-go grub. Il Postino, on 9 de Julio, has meat and vegetarian empanadas as well as quiches, a great meal to split with a friend, or take with you trekking to Chaltén. There are also a few things to do that break away from the touristy vortex of main street. Plus they’re free, or darn close to it. Laguna Nimez eco-reserve, home to local birdlife, including upland geese, black-faced ibis, and flamingo, is about six blocks north of town, across the Arroyo.There’s a small entrance fee. To get a closer gander of Lago Argentino, rent a mountain bike (hourly and daily rates available) and head north on Avenida 17 de Octubre to the Avenida de la Costanera, the coastal road. Pedal out an hour to reach Punto Soberano, where the road ends and you can walk along the shore and drink in the turquoise waters of the lake. Just southeast of town, stroll to the Cañadon del Arroyo Calafate. There’s a creek that runs into Lago Argentino, and from here you can scramble up the canyon. For so-close-yet-so-far views of the town and lake, hike up Cerro Huiliche or Cerro Calafate. Ask around for the best route up.
Funky is the best word to describe Chaltén, a small village created in 1985 and growing fast. With no less than four panaderias (bakeries), its own microbrewery, a chocolateria, two book stores, plus a host of hostels, hotels, and restaurants, Chaltén manages to retain its Wild West feel, bumming along a dusty road. This is where Los Glaciares National Park invites you to its northern sector. Geologically it’s a sister park to Torres del Paine, but Los Glaciares is very different, especially in its park philosophy. The Park is yours and, while you visit, it’s your job to protect it. Park entrance and camping are free, and facilities are kept to a minimum. Basically the only services are pit-style latrines at every campsite. Hiking options range from a one-hour hike to Los Condores overlook, to five or six days in the backcountry, passing glaciers, pristine mountain lakes, leafy lenga forests, and rock spires like Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. While in Chaltén, check out these digs... Super Mercado: Catering to the road weary, this shop has camping gear, trail grub, warm clothes, books, and souvenirs. Calle Lago del Desierto near Guemes. Josh Aike Chocolateria: Established about 14 years ago, this is the first stop for many climbers celebrating or bemoaning their efforts on the towers. Calle Lago del Desierto. Capilla a los Escaladores: Small chapel built in honor of climbers who have died here. Built by Austrians, of mostly Austrian materials, in honor of Toni Egger who died descending Cerro Torre with Italian Cesare Maestri in 1959 (the disputed first ascent). Costanera Norte at Rio de las Vueltas. Hostel Rancho Grande: The first hostel in Chaltén, at the north end of the village. Showers available (check for hours and prices), a great service if you’re camping gratis at Madsen, just to the north. Marco Polo Books: Decent selection of books in Spanish, maps, and regional books in English. Calle Andreas Madsen 15. Bodegon El Chaltén: Local microbrewery and restaurant. Centrally located, a favorite.
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Calafate & Chaltén, Argentina • Q&A Where can I camp in El Chaltén? In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for at Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs AR$25. In the village, Madsen at the end of town right next to the Fitz Roy Trail, is free. There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peak of Fitz Roy at dawn. What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any ATMs, banks, or places to change money. Some places accept dollars or euros, but not Chilean pesos. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. The good thing is, you don’t have to pay to get into the Park. What if I don’t have a reservation in Chaltén? The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village. Can I find rental equipment in Chaltén? You sure can, from a variety of stores on the main drag. Will my cell phone work in Chaltén? Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway? Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/ Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles. Do I have to pay to enter the Park from El Chaltén?
How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales?
Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?
It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.
Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as plastic bags have been outlawed.Yay, progress! This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box.
How many people live in Calafate? Around 18,000 in high season, from September until May. What can I do in Calafate? The main attractions are the glaciers. Perito Moreno Glacier is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit six other glaciers in the area (Upsala, Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis, and Heim). How do I get to/from the Calafate airport? By the airport shuttle, which costs around $18 ARS per person. By taxi it’s $50 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work in Calafate? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops. Where is the information center in Calafate? In El Chaltén? In Calafate, the information center is in the bus station. In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Can I drink the tap water? In Calafate you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri.
When are the stores open, anyway? In Calafate, they’re open from 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m. What’s the weather like in these parts?
Who was Perito Moreno? Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means expert in Spanish. Are there any cheap eating options? Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderias. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price.
The weather changes every five minutes. It’s Patagonia. It’s super windy in the summer.
Is it safe at night?
How can I visit Perito Moreno Glacier?
Where can I camp in El Calafate?
There are regular tours that cost AR$90 (incl. pick up and guide) + AR$40 (entrance). The regular bus is AR$60 + entrance.You can also take one of the remises for AR$250 for up to four passengers. This includes the ride there and back, and the remis will wait for you there for three hours.
There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities, and all around AR$18 per person. The best one is El Ovejero.
There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: 1.) Minitrekking for AR$265 + AR$45 (transfer to the park) + AR$40 (entrance fee). 2.) The Big Ice: AR$375 + AR$45 (transfer) + AR$40 (entrance). To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip (from 7 a.m. till 6 p.m.) AR$240 (boat ticket) + AR$26 (transfer to the port) + AR$40 (entrance fee). Bring your own lunch for the excursions. The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time!
Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy.
What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno Glacier, Upsala, and other glaciers, and El Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre) How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate? It takes 4.5 hours to get to Chaltén from Calafate. There are two companies: Chaltén Travel and CalTur. The times are: 8 a.m., 1 p.m., and 6.30 p.m. to go. And 6.30 a.m., 1 p.m. and 6 p.m. to come back to Calalfate. In winter there’s only one bus in the morning. How many people live in El Chaltén? 200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capital and youngest city, founded in 1985.
No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It is up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all common sense leave-no-trace principles. How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You at least need to stay one night there. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto. Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales? Not exactly directly, but the buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the next bus to El Chaltén at 6.30 p.m. How long is the trekking season? From October until April (depends on the weather) in El Chaltén. In Calafate, you can do all excursions from August until the end of May.
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Las Mujeres Tiranas: Leyenda de los Onas
Dicen que, antiguamente, las mujeres eran las que mandaban entre los Onas.Y no sólo mandaban: el problema es que no trabajaban nada de nada. Los pobres hombres tenían que correr todo el día, cazando y juntando plantas para comer, cosiendo pieles para hacer ropa, atendiendo a los chicos.Y ellas, mientras tanto, se la pasaban rascándose la barriga, charlando y dándose la gran vida. ¿Cómo lo hacían? Gracias a una gran mentira.Ya les explico. Parece que fue Kraaeh (la luna), que era una mujer, la que tuvo la idea de aprovecharse de los hombres. Siguiendo su plan, entre todas y en secreto, construyeron una gran choza de troncos y ramas en un lugar apartado. Después, crearon unas máscaras espantosas, hicieron unas caras horribles, como
para disfrazarse y que nadie fuera capaz de reconocerlas. Su obra maestra era el disfraz de la luna. Hicieron un armazon de ramas de unos dos metros de alto, en forma de tubo aplastado y lo forraron con cuero. Después, lo pintaron de rojo y le agregaron rayas punteadas de blanco. Cuando la luna se puso el armatoste, sólo se le veían los pies. Por fin, al atardecer, se metieron en las máscaras y se acabaron de disfrazar pintandose todo el cuerpo negro y rojo.Y por si fuera poco se agregaron unas manchas amarillas, otras se pintarrajearon rayas blancas y otras se pegotearon pelos de animales. Cuando estuvieron listas, se abalanzaron sobre el campamento, donde estaban los hombres con los chicos, muy tranquilos. Aparecieron de pronto, corriendo como locas, saltando y dando gritos tremendos, que ponían los pelos de punta: unos “uuuu” estremecedores y también unos “iiiii” finitos que hacían palidecer al más valiente. Para colmo, repartieron garrotazos para todos lados. Después de hacer un gran desparramo de varones asustados, salieron disparando hacia la choza grande, donde se escondieron. Cuando a los hombres se les pasó la primera impresión, siguieron el rastro de las enmascaradas y llegaron a la choza. Apenas los vieron llegar, las mujeres--que estaban adentro--se pusieron a sacudir unos cueros que metian un ruido horrible; golpearon paredes de la choza con palos y pegaron unos gritos desgarradores, como si las estuvieran matando. Al escuchar los gritos y reconocer las voces de sus esposas e hijas, los hombres quisieron correr a ayudarlas, pero en ese momento salieron de la carpa las enmascaradas, con la luna a la cabeza. Ésta dijo, “No den un paso más. Yo soy Jalpen, un espíritu maligno, y éstos son mis ayudantes.Acá tenemos prisioneras a sus mujeres.” Kraan, el sol, que en ese entonces era un hombre y además el marido de la luna, se adelantó y dijo, “¡Esperen!,
¿Qué quieren ustedes espíritus para no hacerles nada?” “Mmmm,” dijo la luna, “Nosotras tenemos hambre. Especialmente yo. Si ustedes nos traen carne y otras cosas, no las matamos.” “¡Bueno!” dijo el sol,“¡Trato hecho! Suéltenlas y ya les traemos comida.” “¡Ah, qué vivo!” contestó la luna. “Si las soltamos, ustedes no van a volver. Hagamos esto: traigan la comida, y mientras nos den bien de comer, no las vamos a matar. Pero ellas se quedan acá. Eso sí, el día que nos quedemos con hambre, ¡zas! Nos comemos una o dos.” Desesperados, los hombres fueron a cazar y volvieron con un montón de carne. Y todos los dás tenían que hacer lo mismo. Cuando los veían acercarse, las mujeres empezaban a golpear los cueros y la carpa y pegar gritos de dolor. Así pasaron meses. Los hombres estaban siempre cansados y cada vez más flacos, porque les dejaban casi toda la comida a las mentirosas.Y, para colmo, sufrían mucho, preocupados por ellas. Cada tanto, las mujeres organizaban en la carpa una ceremonia llamada hain, después de la cual las nenas eran consideradas adultas. Padres y hermanos debían llevar a las chicas hasta allí y quedare mirando desde afuera. Adentro, las enmascaradas se sacaban la careta y les contaban el secreto a las muchachas, que se quedaba a vivir con las demás mujeres. Un día el sol se apartó mucho por el bosque, buscando algún animal para cazar, y pasó cerca de un arroyo. A través de las hojas, le pareció sentir unas voces y risas de mujer. Intrigado, se acercó despacio y espió. En la orilla, dos mujeres-la bandurria y la garzase estaban lavando la pintura de cuerpo, mientras se reían y decian, “Ja, Ja! ¡Qué estúpidos son los hombres! ¡se creen cualquier cosa!” En ese momento el sol entendió todo. Tembló
de furia, pero se dio vuelta sin hacer ruido y corrió a llamar a los otros hombres. Juntaron garrotes y fueron a la choza de las mujeres. El sol fue el primero en entrar, rojo de indignación, y se abalanzó sobre la luna. Asustada ella salió corriendo, con su marido detrás. Corrieron, corrieron y llegaron al horizonte. Allí la luna salto al cielo y el sol la siguió. Nunca volvieron a la tierra. Todavía el sol la sigue persiguiendo, sin poder alcanzarla. Adapatación del Libro “Lo que cuentan los Onas” de Miguel Ángel Palermo.
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Punta Arenas, Chile • Q&A
What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?
How do I know where the colectivos go?
Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.
There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!
How much is an airport transfer?
4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.
A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles.
Except for the supermarkets and farmacies, everything opens around 09:30 and is closed around lunch time between 13:00 and 15:00. Also on Sundays most shops are closed, except for the supermarkets.
How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas?
250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry, 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.
Yes, gringos only.
Sun.: 10:30-14:00 Museo Naval y Marítimo Pedro Montt at O´Higgins ph (61) 205479 Shipwrecks, cartography, meteorology, local, and national maritime history. Tue.-Sat. a.m.: 9:30 - 12:30 Tue.-Sat. p.m.: 14:00 - 17:00
Jose Menendez 882 Punta Arenas, Chile
HOSTEL Y TURISMO
Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279 josemenendez@chileaustral.com
S E MENEND E Z
www.chileaustral.com/josemenendez
Quillota
Jorge Montt
O‘Higgins
Yes, a fancy ship called the “Expedition Cruise.”
Sarmiento Croacia Mejicana I. Carrera Pinto
Av. Colon
ra ne
ta os .C v A
Jose Menedez Pedro Montt
Waldo Seguel Av. España
Museo Regional Magallanes 949, next to the plaza ph (61) 244216 The former mansion of Mauricio Braun, containing regional history. Tue.-Sat.: $1.000 Sun.: free Tue.-Sat.: 10:30-17:00
From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent.
Depending on snow conditions of course about June-August. You can see the Strait of Magellan from the slopes.
Is there a boat to Ushuaia?
Tue.-Sun. p.m.:15.00-18.00
Can I reach the end of the continent?
JO
When does ski season start?
Arauco
Museo Salesiano Av. Bulnes 374 South Patagonian culture, history, and nature. $2.000 Tue.-Sun. a.m.: 10:00-12:30
3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day.
Mario Toledo
What’s with all the street dogs? Do they bite?
Punta Arenas Museums
2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
Julia Garay
How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuia?
Maipu
1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.
Caupolican
You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended).
Angamos
What are my penguin options?
What type of day tours are there?
Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.
Lautaro Navarro
Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus an the driver nevously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options a pretty inexpensive.
About 20km or 30 minutes.
How far is Torres del Paine from here?
Magallanes
Is there any public transportation?
When are the stores open?
Pl. Sampaio
Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time…
How far is the airport out of town?
Not at walking distance from the center.
Roca
Fagnano Errazuriz Balmaceda
Av. Independencia Boliviana
21 de Mayo
Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas?
Does Punta Arenas have a camping?
Can I drink the tap water?
Av. Bulnes
Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.
About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.
Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.
There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.
Bories
Where is the bus station?
Where can I change money?
Jose Nogueira
Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street.
All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.
Chiloe
Why are there ropes on the main square corners?
How much do taxis cost?
Armando Sanhueza
Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.
How many people live here?
To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next dowor you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.
Señoret
What does Punta Arenas mean?
What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?
Port
Punta Arenas, Chile
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Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile ph+56-61 415749
relax
Clean & Natural Outdoor Tubs, Massages & Natural Bar, Relaxation Therapies
The Ghosts of Patagonia The human presence in these remote lands repeats the thirst for adventure that has guided human beings since their origin. The first tribes of hunters that occupied these territories arrived 12,000 years ago. Only 6000 years ago, the Kaweshkar canoers, along with the Aonikenk (ancient dwellers of the plains), initiated the permanence and continuity of man in this corner of the planet. Soon after, the arrival of the Spanish captain Juan Ladrilleros (1557-58) marked the discovery of the zone and much later the German pioneer Hermann Eberhard (1892-93) initiated the colonization the area. Even later the arrival of many Chilean people from the island of Chiloé put their seal of identity on this area called Patagonia. The Yamanas or Yaghans, known as the canoeist of the Beagle, were the southernmost inhabitants in the world.They lived along the edges of the Beagle Channel, as well as neighbouring channels, as far south as Cape Horn. They were adapted to
by Marcela Suazo
living on the coast, hunting southern sea lions for their principal source of food because of their high fat content. The Sélknam or Onas inhabited the steppes in the north and the woods in the south of Tierra del Fuego. Their way of life was very similar to that of the Aonikenk, although they never used horses. They hunted guanaco, wild birds and rodents. They lived in circular huts made of tree trunks covered with leather and sticks. The Sélknam were tall, formidable, and more aggressive in character than the other aboriginals.They died out having been displaced from their lands or eliminated by the colonists who cleared the land in order to set up farms. The Kawéskar. Called the Alacalufes by the Spanish, lived spread out in small groups that travelled, via canoe, through the channels of the Archipelago. They inhabited the area stretching from the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Pains) to the Brecknock Peninsula, a very damp and rainy area with abundant vegetation.
They hunted sea lions, otters and birds, as well as fished and collected shellfish and molluscs. They would take advantage of the meat and skin of any whale beached by the low tides.They built their canoes with pieces of cut bark tied together with vegetable fibres and sealed with a mixture of earth, clay, and roots. Their huts were made with wooden poles which were covered with sea lions skin. The Aonikenk or Patagones inhabited the steppe from the River Santa Cruz in Argentina in the north to the Straight of Magellan in the south. They spent their time hunting rhea (Ñandú) and other birds, as well as the guanaco whose meat they ate and skin they used for clothing. Their homes were made using leather and wooden poles. All of the group participated in the hunt for guanaco and rheas. The women carried the tools and helped to strengthen the fencing used to isolate the animals so that they could be attacked by the men with “Boleadoras” and bows and arrows.
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