Torres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino
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FREE
Sheep
Volume 2 • Issue 2 •Nov 2006 • patagoniablacksheep.com cover image by Diego Araya ©
Organizing Travels in Chilean Patagonia
Digging up the past
A Tale of Two Unreasonable Men
-Chilean Wine Guide -Guide Training in Patagonia
RECYCLE THIS PAPER - PASS IT ON! ACCOMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE
Torres del Paine Bus Schedules
Letter from the Editor Rustyn Mesdag
I am often amazed at how sometimes the littlest thing can make me as happy as a little kid. The smallest
things sometimes can boost my little world for days. Sometimes it comes in the form of a material object, like a new little sticker for my truck (I never grew out of that) and sometimes it might be just the right temperature on just the right day. Either way, its funny how something relatively simple can pack such a punch.
I recently heard a piece of news that has put me in a good mood all week. But first let me explain. You see,
both my parents were born in Indonesia. Of course they weren´t married at the time of their birth - that came later, but they both hung onto traditions that later turned into the details of my upbringing. One of those details was our dinners. Every dinner, for my first 18 years of life, had a big round bowl of rice in the center of it. Any occasion, every meal. Anything we ate, came with rice. Brown rice, white rice, long grain rice, fried rice, wild rice and for leftovers, rice pudding. No kidding, really. To this day no dinner is the same without it. Its burned in me forever. So my incredible news... Puerto Natales now has a full scale Chinese Restaurant! I haven´t been this excited since fast internet came to Natales. We are out here in Patagonia, by all normal standards we are in the middle of nowhere. A chinese restaurant rates pretty high on my scale. Its called the Golden Dragon and its located downtown Puerto Natales, on Bulnes 439. It just opened, go check it out. While you are there, stop for a moment and appreciate the differences between your meal type and your geographic location. It´s a little strange, but I´m thrilled. Maybe I´ll see
Via Paine / Andescape - Eberhard 599 - Ph 412877 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
Trip 1 7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.00
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Gomez -Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga
Organizing Chilean Patagonia Patagonia, Chile www.patagoniablacksheep.com ph +56•61•415749
Production Editor • Design: Rustyn Mesdag
Business Director • Advertising Manager: The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned rag, inspired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile. A warm, woolly thanks go out to all black sheep who helped make this paper possible. The opinions within the Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers.
Pilar Irribarra
Assistent Editor: Marjan Alkema
Contributers:
Diego Araya, Bill Penhollow Sebastian Borgwardt, Isabel Chamorro
Retraction- BS V1, Issue 6 - Posted in PN Q&A´s - Refugio Paine Grande at Pehoe is open in the winter season for refugio beds and camping. Apologies to anyone who ran into any problems thinking it was closed. Sorry guys! Join the rucksack revolution
erratic rock B aquedano 719 Pto Nata l e s www.erraticrock.com ph +56 61 410355
Patagonia
Hostel - Rental - Guides - Info
a relaxed nook... Massages Relaxation Therapies Natural Bar Outdoor Center Hand Made Crafts Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61 415749
Torres del Paine Refugio Information Andescape - Dickson, Lago Grey andescape@terra.cl +56-61 412592 $25.00 Bed $33.50 Bed, breakfast $40.00 Bed, dinner $59.00 Full board $13.00 Lunch www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
7.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
18.15
9.45
16.30
Pudeto
13.45
19.00
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Laguna Amarga
15.00
19.45
Administration
11.45
18.00
Puerto Natales
17.00
22.00
Andescape Ph 412877
7.30
Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
The Black Sheep
Trip 2
Laguna Amarga
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Published by Southern Cross Ltda.
Trip 1
Puerto Natales
Natales - Torres del Paine
you there, I´ll be the guy in the corner with a big bowl of rice.
z
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Trip 2
Torres del Paine - Natales (Laguna Amarga)
15.00
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales
7.30
10.30
14.00
Administration
13.00
Laguna Amarga
9.45
12.30
16.30
Pudeto
13.30
Laguna Amarga
14.30
Pudeto
10.45
17.30
Administration
11.45
18.00
(Pudeto)
(Administration) Puerto Natales 17.00
14.00
17.30
13.45 19.30
18.30 19.00 20.00 22.00
Gomez (Laguna Amarga) 15.00 to all the Remember: Hostería7.30 Las Torres operates a transfer that connects Ph 415700 buses that arrive at and leave from Laguna Amarga (cost is $2 USD). (Pudeto) 13.45 Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (Administration) (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park) JB Calafate (Laguna Amarga) El 57.30 hrs TDP L. Amarga Ph 412824 Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto (Pudeto) Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin (Administration)
13.00 215.00 hrs 30 3 hrs 15 314.00 hrs 45 13.00
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez Ph 411111 E. Ramírez 399
Buses Fernandez Ph. 242313 Arm. Sanhueza 745
Bus Pacheco Ph 414513 Baquedano 500 Bus Sur Ph 411859 Baquedano 668
7.15 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 7.30 10.00 13.30 18.00 7.00 15.00
Bus Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900 Bus Sur Ph. 244464 José Menéndez 552
8.00 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 8.30 14.00 18.30 19.30 15.00 19.00
These prices are reflected in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.
Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos albergue@lastorres.cl $33.00 Bed $41.00 Bed, breakfast $47.00 Bed, dinner $63.00 Full board $12.00 Lunch
Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain Lodge loreto.c@verticepatagonia.cl +56-61 412742 $35.00 Bed $39.00 Bed, breakfast $50.00 Bed, dinner $63.00 Full board $12.00 Lunch
Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine Questions & Answers
November 2006
food in the tent, with you. Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang. Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from TdP? No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know.
patagoni
alternativa
Everything in Patagonia. Trekking Kayaking Penguins Horses Navigation Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. +56-61 225889 www.patagonialternativa.com
A hostel alternative for couples
A free information talk is given at Eratic Rock everyday at 3:pm about the Park, logistics, food prep, programs and basically everythng...
Tips... Trail Etiquette
On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience. While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time. Sticking to the trails is important. Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or a puddle only widens the trail or creates a second, or sometimes third, trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Torres del Paine or on the Dientes Circuit (Patagonia) . Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.
erratic rock 2 benjamin zamora 732 Pto Natales www.erraticrock.com ph +56 61 414317
Patagonia
Hostel - Rental - Guides - Info
ds
& Dri
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F ri e n
Can I cook in the refugios? In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits). How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter. Are there backpackers here in the winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast. What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket!? It depends on where you are. Sometimes its fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first? No. Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it. Trust fate with regards to the weather. Plan your trek before hand and go with it. Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ideas when possible, but there is a lot of Patagonia out there that has no public buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town. Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone wobbles right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town. Why do I get given a piece of little receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously. Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with
nk s
How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 - 2.5 hrs. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 - 8am. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do, it depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3.500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Los Perros, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas. At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am. What about mid day? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, exept for the supermarkets. Where can I buy camping food in town? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located 1 block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes. How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? In summer, not freezing, but it can still get close sometimes. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Is there a bus that goes to Calafate directly from Torres del Paine? Yes, it picks up at 5pm at Laguna Amarga. Call Calafate Travel for that transfer. It costs 20.000 from the park and from Pto. Natales it costs 10.000. What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question.������������ But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs pesos per person, one way, 17.000 round trip. Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios.
RestoBar Eberhard 169 Puerto Natales, Chile
Un Carmenere?
IMPRIMIENDO ALTA CALIDAD EN EL FIN DEL MUNDO
EPSON STYLUS PRO 4800
AĂşn recuerdo hace un par de aĂąos, cuando soĂąaba en mis largos viajes fotogrĂĄficos al Paine poder contar con una cĂĄmara digital. En ĂŠpocas de diapositiva, muchas veces debĂa esperar meses antes de poder ver el resultado de una sesiĂłn fotogrĂĄfica. Con la llegada de la fotografĂa digital y hecho de un computador portĂĄtil, pude darle otra dimensiĂłn al proceso grĂĄfico y creativo, dĂĄndome el lujo de editar y trabajar mis proyectos grĂĄficos en terreno. Pero todavĂa seguĂa dependiendo de laboratorios de la capital para lograr impresiones de calidad y eso toma mucho trabajo y tiempo. Gracias al compromiso y visiĂłn de Epson Chile, que supo apoyar proyectos de vida como el que he emprendido, ahora puedo realizar el trabajo grĂĄfico completo, al mĂĄs alto nivel y con completa autonomĂa. Es asĂ como en mi estudio Puerto Natales ya todos podemos gozar de un equipo de calidad profesional que supera hasta el mĂĄs sofisticado laboratorio fotogrĂĄfico de la capital. La Epson Styuls Pro 4800 posee 8 cartuchos de tinta independientes elaborados con la ultima tecnologĂa de pigmentos Ultrachrome K3, junto a la precisiĂłn de su tecnologĂa y al papel Epson Luster 250 y Photo Glossy, puedo realizar impresiones de hasta 40 cm de ancho y formato panorĂĄmico de la mejor calidad disponible en el mercado actual. Agradeciendo el compromiso de Epson Chile con el desarrollo de este, mi proyecto de vida, pongo a la comunidad magallĂĄnica mis imĂĄgenes y las increibles impresiones que he podido lograr junto a mi Epson Stylus Pro 4800.
-Diego Araya
EPSON
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El CarmenĂŠre va en camino de convertirse en la cepa emblemĂĄtica y/o diferenciadora de Chile, tal como ya lo han hecho los argentinos con el malbec, los uruguayos con el tannat o los espaĂąoles con el tempranillo, por ejemplo. Esta cepa es originaria de Burdeos, Francia y se usaba como parte de las mezclas para los grandes vinos bordeleses. En 1850, la cepa Carmenère desapareciĂł de Europa producto de la crisis de la filoxera, un insecto devorador de las raĂces de la vid. Pero por fortuna, un visionario viticultor chileno en la segunda mitad del siglo XIX inicio la sustituciĂłn de las antiguas cepas espaĂąolas por variedades francesas como Cabernet Sauvignon, Cot, Merlot, Pinot y Carmenère, esta cepa fue confundida por Merlot ya que se plantaron juntas. Pasaron casi tres siglos antes de su identificaciĂłn en Chile. En 1993 viajĂł a Chile Sr. Jean Michel Boursiquot, ampelĂłgrafo (la AmpelografĂa es la ciencia que describe e identifica las variedades del vino) quien junto con el enĂłlogo chileno Philippo Pszcolkowski, descubrieron que en los viĂąedos Carmen de Alto el Merlot no era Merlot, sino que Carmenère.. Y asĂ es como comienza a rescribirse la historia. Se concluyĂł entonces que la uva habĂa logrado escapar ilesa de la plaga de filoxera junto con las primeras vides importadas que llegaron a Chile en el siglo XIX. El Carmenère se consume rĂĄpidamente, y satisface la demanda de aficionados que quiere beber vinos jĂłvenes y accesibles, gusta mucho tanto a hombres como a mujeres y es particularmente bueno para la persona que estĂĄ comenzando a beber vinos tintos. Gracias a su frescura y exuberante sabor, se recomienda el Carmenère para acompaĂąar platos suaves basados en carne, vegetales y frescas hierbas. Combina excepcionalmente bien con el cordero, algunas aves como el pollo y pato; todo tipo de quesos; atĂşn o cualquier tipo de pasta y salsas
Recomendados por “Emporio de la Pampaâ€? Cheese & Wine: Terrunyo Carmenere 2003 Valle Cachapoal Adobe (vino organico) Reserva Carmenere 2004 Valle de Colchagua Casa Silva DoĂąa Dominga Reserva Carmenere 2004 Valle Colchagua
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Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales
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Bernardita Regular dorms & Private rooms with breakfast, hot showers, phone, private bathroom and cable TV - Tourist Infomation - Torres del Paine & surrounding areas O´Higgins 765 - ph & fax (56-61) 411162 Puerto Natales, Chile email itat@mixmail.com
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Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile
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Unreasonable Men
The foundation of Punta Arenas is not just a story of renegades, hard and visionary entrepreneurs, cold blooded gold diggers, war deserters and lost sailors. It is also a story of unreasonable men. Men who did not heed the common mans warnings. These were the sport adventurers, the original outdoor freaks of the first half of the 20th century Mountain climbers, skiers, hikers, sport fishermen, all of them braving and fighting against the winds (literally), introduced their activities to the last frontier in the very early days of the century. They did it just for fun, or maybe just for the pleasure of the wind in their faces, or the sound of their skies. These young men are the anonymous heroes of the definitive foundation of Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales and the other few Patagonian towns. These men, the first Patagonia outdoor boys, together with the few first local artists, were the ones who transformed this territory from just a wild land waiting to be exploited into the wild land waiting to become a home. It´s said “...a reasonable man exepts the world the way it is. A unreasonable man questions it. Therefore progress is made by unreasonable men...” -This is one of those stories. Winter of 1937, two young men, fanatics for the outdoors and the mountains, got together to discuss an important issue: The Punta Arenas local cinema had been announcing for some time the avant premier of the block buster Mexican movie “Allá en el Rancho Grande” with the great Tito Guizar in the main role. The film rolls were all ready in Puerto Natales after a long journey by ship from Valparaiso, but … the last snow storm blocked the road to Punta Arenas, there was
Big photos, little camera
Many of you, like me, experience a deep passion for nature and having a close encounter with a wild animal give us a great and inexplicable pleasure. Probably Torres del Paine National Park will offer you several opportunities to observe, on a very close range, the local wildlife. However if we don´t have a powerful telephoto lens, we can not always honor the moment. Below, I have a few suggestions and recommendations for you that can help you to portrait our beloved wildlife in a way that you never imagined with your small snapshot camera. 1.-Light Direction: Especially on sunny days, the light direction is very important for highlighting our subject from the background; November 2006
A Hero’s Story no way to get the films to the theatre, which meant no show. No Mexican divas, no dreadful “Bandoleros” and no “Tito”. Definitely a huge catastrophe for the local community. Ivo Stpicic with his friend Henning Willumsen, two fine representatives of the new spirit in Patagonia. After discussing this delema, a decision was made. They had skies, ruck sacs and lots of energy. And after long hours of discussions they came up with a simple plan: ski all the way from Punta Arenas to the remote Puerto Natales and back. It was a rescue mission: the film needed to be on time at the Punta Arenas cinema for the grand opening. With a deep and soft snow, the expedition turned out to be extremely exhausting. The 250 kilometres track was showing its worst face and the self imposed deadline was an additional factor of stress that didn’t help. In the mean while, rumours in Punta Arenas were spreading like bad weed, “the kids got lost” and “the crazy skiers got trapped in bad weather” others claimed. Finally, the day for the show, nobody really had big expectations. With no official announcement, everybody was pretty sure that the show was going to be cancelled. But our heroes came through. The winter of 1937 was a dark, cold and snowy winter. Punta Arenas learned a lesson that winter about this new spirit of recreation, leisure and sports. Ivo and Henning arrived that night, movie in tow. They became the heroes of Punta Arenas. They took the great Tito Guizar on their backs all the way through hard snowy routes just in time for the announced opening day. The next year, in 1938, Ivo and Henning together with other partners formed the “Club Andino” mountain club, 15 years later the club had 599 members. This club, in a very reduced version, still exists. I want to thank Mr. Sivestre Fugellie for enlightening us with this beautiful stories through his columns in the “Prensa Austral”.
so the face is properly lit. On mid-
lower part of the frame so we can win more
day, the sunlight is very strong
sky, mountains...landscape instead of blurry
and because it is directly above
dirt. The other little trick is leave always some
us, it gives a flat light with funny
“air” in the direction of the subject. This is
shadows. I recommend side light
referring to were he is going or looking.
in the morning or evening, so that
4. Attitude: Once you select a light direction
you get a pleasant and warm light.
that allows you to see a great background,
2.- Background: Normally we
choose a nice composition that shows our
are so busy with our subject
animal living in its habitat. It’s very important
that we forget the background.
to take a moment and have the patience to
Especially if we don’t have a big
achieve something special. If we can make
telephoto lens, the background is
our subject look at the camera, that gives us a
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sense of intimacy. If there are several subjects,
against a ridge with a blue sky or in front of
a few minutes of patience can be the
snowy mountains, which gives us the image
difference between a snapshot and a Black
with an impressive atmosphere.
Sheep cover.
3. Composition: Unless we are capable to
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very relevant. Locate the subject
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fill the frame with our subject, it’s very important to achieve a pleasant composition between the subject and the surroundings. Normally we tend to locate the subject in the center of the frame, what
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is called “Dead in the Middle” and it doesn’t help to create any atmosphere around the image. I advise you to put the animal in the
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ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281 www.soloexpediciones.com
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double private room for the price of 2 dorm beds
10% off horse rides
expires Feb 1, 2007
10% off Any regular meal O´Higgins 623 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 56-61 410060
(+56 61)412221 info@estanciatravel.com www.estanciatravel.com
10% off 2 Hr. Ride Redeemable for 10% off - Valid until Nov 30, 2006
EMPORIO de la Pampa Eberhard 226 -Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile This coupon redeemable is for a 10% dicount on a regional cheese plate with the puchase of wine for two.
Magallanes 619 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. 221982
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ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281 www.soloexpediciones.com
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% dicount on chocolate, coffee, ice cream & brownies.
enterance & bus not included
A. Prat 337 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412869
Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61 415749
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This coupon is redeemable for a 10% dicount on a 1 hour massage. Valid season 2006-07.
Laundry Service for Travellers
10% off Massage
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���� ��� ��� Ice Field. Touch the toe ������ of the Patagonian We can get you there today. Departing from the Glacier Grey Operations Hut in Torres del Paine - Daily Ice Hikes 1, 2 & 3 Day Seminars with t n - 9 Day Expedition Primers ou Disc heep !0% lack S n! B po Cou
icehike@planetaglaciar.com www.patagoniablacksheep.com
www.erratic rock.com
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% dicount on Daily Ice Hikes on Glacier Grey. Valid for 2006-07 season. Can be redeemed at Eberhard 302, Baquedano 719 in Puerto Natales or at the Operations Hut at Glacier Grey in Torres del Paine National Park.
Recycling in Patagonia by S. Betty bottles and sells them on to Cristalerias Chile, which reuses the glass to make new bottles. Cristalerias Chile pays COANIQUEM a higher price per bottle than it would to a normal company due to its charitable status. So not only is there less waste to dispose of in the environment, but a very good cause benefits from a significant source of additional income.
There’s a slow but sure change underway in Puerto Natales; a growing consciousness of the impact of daily life on the environment and a movement towards reducing that impact. This is being led by local non-profit organisations such as Fundación Patagonia and AMA Torres del Paine. Fundación Patagonia’s mission involves developing collective, community-focused action to protect and conserve the biodiversity and the natural environment of southern Patagonia, while AMA Torres del Paine’s primary objective is to protect the green spaces of the Torres del Paine National Park. One of the organisations’ ongoing projects is to bring recycling to the area, which is not only a worthwhile activity in itself but also helps to raise awareness among local people and visitors of the environment and our collective responsibility towards it. Fundación Patagonia is already running a battery collection scheme, addressing one major area of concern for environmentalists. As they start to decompose, discarded batteries leak corrosive chemicals, which poison the ground around them and any watercourses nearby. The Foundation collects batteries, which will be sealed in “packages” wrapped in a special plastic coating. The packages will be inserted in cement blocks (reducing the volume of cement required), which will then be used in the construction projects such as Hotel Indigo, a new hotel on the Costanera of Puerto Natales. You can find Fundación Patagonia’s glass receptacles for used batteries in Puerto Natales at the Post Office, the offices of Big Foot, Antares, Cascada, Chile Nativo and 21 de Mayo, in local schools and colleges as well as in Cerro Castillo, Dorotea and in the Administration Centre, Hotel Explora and Lodge Paine Grande within the Torres del Paine National Park. Another emerging initiative supported by the Foundation is recycling of tin cans. A local entrepreneur, Don Juan, collects tins from restaurants, hotels and even private homes and sells them in Punta Arenas to a company that re-uses the metal. “Don Juan is keen to collect as many tins as possible. The issue is raising awareness of the service he provides among local businesses and homes and encouraging them to separate the tins from their general rubbish,” says Carolina Torres of Fundación Patagonia. Fundación Patagonia and AMA Torres del Paine are also working on a glass recycling initiative with COANIQUEM (Corporación Ayuda al Niño Quemado), a charitable organisation based in Punta Arenas, which works with children suffering from burns. COANIQUEM collects any kind of glass November 2006
Glass recycling is already underway in Torres del Paine. Christian Morales of AMA Torres del Paine, which is funded by the Hostería Las Torres and Fantástico Sur businesses based in Torres del Paine, has already sent one shipment of glass bottles to COANIQUEM and is hoping to persuade other organisations within the Park to join the initiative. Projects such as these can only work with the cooperation and support of local people such as Don Ramón Gomez who has provided a plot of land where the bottles can be collected in sufficient quantity before being transported. Although in that lies another problem for the Magallanes area… Recycling is relatively common in Chile but tends to be concentrated in the areas from Puerto Montt northward. South of Puerto Montt the Ice Fields begin, cutting the Magallanes region off from the rest of the country. Many services and initiatives that are well established in the north are not considered viable south of the ice fields. Luckily, the Navimag sails from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt regularly during the tourist season with cargo space to spare. Thanks to the cooperation of the Navimag, recycling projects such as COANIQUEM’s, can be made reality. Yet Fundación Patagonia does not want to stop there. “We still have to sort out recycling of plastic and paper”, says José Luis Oyarzún, one of the founders of the organisation. “There are receiving organisations in Puerto Montt, we have to work on the logistics of collecting and getting the materials to them.” One of the Foundation´s future goals is to obtain containers to collect the bottles, tins, paper and plastic ready for shipping north. It also wants to find a lorry and fund workers to operate it, so that it can collect a different load on different days of the week initially from restaurants, hotels and other businesses within Puerto Natales and ideally from the Torres del Paine National Park as well. If you would like to offer any support or a donation to help acquire the containers, contact Fundación Patagonia at Barros Arana 111, Puerto Natales (tel: +56 61 41 4611). Or tell your hotel or hostel owner about these initiatives and encourage them to join – Carolina would be delighted to provide details of how to get involved in the tin or glass recycling schemes. Ask for her at the Foundation. Being at the end of the world adds additional challenges to getting projects such as these off the ground. Your support can really help these valuable initiatives to become reality so that caring for the environment can become a part of everyday life in Puerto Natales in the future.
Punta Arenas Info Penguins
Museums
Seno Otway Daily 16:00 pm 4.5hr trip (1.15hr to go, 2hr there, 1.5hr back) Transfer: 10.000 Entrance: 3.500
Museo Salesiano Av. Bulnes 374 South Patagonian culture, history and nature. $2.000 Tue - Sun am: 10:00 - 12:30 Tue - Sun pm:15.00-18.00
Isla Magdalena Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday 16:00 p.m. 5hr trip (2hr to go, 1hr there, 2hr back) Tour: 20.000 (Inclusive of entrance)
Museo Regional Magallanes 949, next to the plaza ph (61) 244216 The former mansion of Mauricio Braun, containing regional history. Tue – Sat: $1.000, Sun: free Tue - Sat:10:30 – 17:00 Sun: 10:30 - 14:00
Tourist Information
Museo Naval y Marítimo Cnr Pedro Montt + O´Higgins ph (61) 205479 Shipwrecks, cartography, meteorology, local and national maritime history. Tue - Sat am: 9:30 - 12:30 Tue - Sat pm:14:00 - 17:00
Sernatur Magallanes 960 Opening times Phone: (61) 248790
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
The penguin connection. Call 221982
Downtown Punta Arenas · Magallanes 619 · www.aonikenk.com Comfortable rooms, Continental breakfast, private bathrooms, 24 hour reception, cable tv, multilingual, telephone
Hostal Francis Drake Phone & Fax +56-61 411553 contact@hostalfrancisdrake.com Phillipi 383 Pto Natales, Chile
Lib. Bernardo O’Higgins 1401 - Puerto Arturo Prat, Punta Arenas ph241022 puerto@terra.cl
Tourist Center Puerto Del Estrecho
Travel info - Internet - Cafeteria - HandCrafts - Souvenirs - Phone Center - Travel Agency - Money Exchange - Rental Cars & more...
Art Gallery & Jewlery
56 61 411461
Eberhard 318 Puerto Natales
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The Province of Last Hope Cristina Yañez
Covering a beautiful and varied landscape filled with valleys, rivers, lakes and the high mountainous peaks of Torres del Paine, the territory of this province extends between approximately 50 and 53 degrees of southern laltitude and between 72,15 and 73,30 of occidental longitude. There were many events that shaped the progress of its occupation and settlement, the first being the expedition of Captain Juan Fernández de Ladrillero who in 1557 navigated a large part of the maritime area, including the fjord called “Last Hope.” After more than three centuries had passed, a colony was started for the purposes of raising sheep in early 1892 thanks to the pioneering activities of Captain Hermann Eberhard and other hardworking landowners. Without a doubt there were three important moments in the first years of the twentieth century that had an important effect on Natales’ history: the so called “Laudo Arbitral” that defined the border with Argentina in 1902, the acquisition of lands at the beginning of 1905 and the construction of the infrastructure in order to industrialize the exportation of sheep livestock by the Operating Society of Tierra del Fuego and finally, the foundation of the city of Puerto Natales in 1911. From the time of Ladrillero until the first two decades of the twentieth century, the period to which a great part of the province’s buildings originate, it was only possible to enter by horse or boat from Punta Arenas to the eastern coast of the Almirante Montt Gulf through the Señoret Canal or Last Hope Sound. Even this didn’t prevent the precarious formation of sheep herding that extended to the Sierra Baguales in the north, to the mountainous hills in the west and occupying towards the east the lands that after the Laudo of 1902 remained in Argentinian territory. This area, however, owing to the distant and coastal Atlantic, maintained strong commercial and social links with the province of Last Hope until the advance of the twentieth century. In the beginning of 1905, the Operating Society of Tierra del Fuego (SETF), bought the better part of the 500,000 hectares designated for sheepherding in the province, taking the place of the first landowners that had occupied those lands. In one decade, the SETF planned and brought about the construction of the origins of towns in Cerro Castillo, Cerro Guido, and the Bories Estate as well as a new network of roads and a train that transported its workers to and from Puerto Natales. The industrial establishment of Port Bories, today partly demolished, was one of the best hierarchies constructed in Chile at the beginning of the twentieth century, with a mixed architectural style of brick, wood and corrugated iron and a productive technology comparable to the industrial projects in Europe at that time.
On the corner of Magallanes of Señoret ph 56-61-413723 www.cormorandelasrocas.com cormorandelarocas@gmail.com www.patagoniablacksheep.com
The old parts of Cerro Castillo and the Bories Estate (today involved in other activities) are also an important inheritance given that they conserve with great measure their spatial
organization and distant warehouses for living, dining, offices and storage etc., with an esthetic austerity that remains united as a whole. Although dispersed in rural Last Hope, and of small proportions, there are many older parts such as those of Amarga Lagoon, Cerro Guido, Tres Pasos and what remains of Port Consuelo which all form the predecessors of the architectural inheritance of Last Hope. In the Señoret Canal, in the vicinity of the Natales River (where the city of Puerto Natales got its name), some corrals, homes and scattered warehouses were gradually constructed at the end of the nineteenth century. A hotel with a general store was built by the businessman Rudolfo Stubenrauch and another was constructed by the Spaniard José Iglesias. In order to regulate this spontaneous settlement, in 1900 the government established a 200 hectares reserve and then assumed a planned design for a new village with 77 sites, finally being decreed in 1911 by the Supreme Court that officially founded the city. From this time and from an amplification of the original nucleus that was carried out in 1935, this infrastructure is in its original form with its principal streets that head towards the water and that frequently head off the wind and rain. As testimony to the violent protests of 1919 and until the 1950 ́s, the majority of the workers were sheepherders from the meat packing plants of Port Bories and Port Natales and those with temporary work in the Argentine and Chilean estates. The urban landscape was therefore of a city with apple trees surrounding the plaza and buildings bordering it with a modest architecture made of wood and corrugated iron, similar to the peripheral neighborhoods of Punta Arenas, where they had in some areas buildings made up of two floors, such as that of the Municipal building in Puerto Natales. The parochial church was the only brick building of its time and it was the work of the Salesian priest Juan Bernabé (1930). However, the artistic capacity of its settlers coming from Chiloé succeeding in setting up social meeting places and commercial establishments with distinctive characteristics that are to this day maintained as a valuable inheritance that was extended and renovated in the last few years. Despite the fiscal investments in service and equipment brought about through the creation of the Department of New Hope (1928), with architecture different from the regional traditions, Natales recovered its urban dynamism only two decades ago as a result of the fishing and tourism industries. Because of the natural beauty that Father Dagostini discovered in this area in 1917, the Torres del Paine National Park was formed and made popular in 1961.
El alma de Puerto Williams
Hace unos minutos que sobrevuelo el Canal Beagle a bordo del twin otter de Dap airlines rumbo al pueblo más austral del planeta, es mi primera visita y seguramente al igual que los lectores no tengo mucha información acerca de que esperar en mi destino, en mi cabeza solo cabe imaginería y nombres llenos de aventura. Pero como no echar a volar la imaginación al nombrar Cabo de Hornos, Paso Drake, Canal Beagle, Charles Darwin, la última mujer Yagan. Como, en mi posición de fotógrafo, no llenar
Tips... Fuel Efficiency
While trying to pack light, taking your fuel into consideration helps. Bringing more fuel then you really need just means more weight to carry. On the other side of the coin, not enough fuel can cause problems. Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel. -Don´t over boil your water, it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you are ready to start a boil is also only heating the fresh air. -Use a lid on your pot. It holds the heat in and allows for a faster boil. -Use a wind screen. Wind will carry your heat from under your pot and redirect it from
by Diego Araya
estos instantes con imágenes asombrosas de
Quisiera sin duda haber podido conocer más,
estos parajes y su gente. Lo que si traigo son
haber escarbado más en el alma de este puerto
nombres que hablan de los atractivos turísti-
lejano, pero mi misión aquí sólo fue registrar
cos de Navarino, pero que en estos minutos
imágenes. Me perdonarán aquellos pedacitos del
de vuelo sobre las espesas nubes también
alma que han quedado fuera de esta, mi parcial
se llenan de ideas y fantasía. Ukika, Omora,
y humilde alegoría de viaje. Pero me voy satis-
Micalvi, Dientes de Navarino son seguramente
fecho, he recorrido sus calles, he disfrutado de
los mismo nombres que cada visitante trae en
su ritmo, he heredado algunas de sus historias y
su morral junto a sus sueños de fin de mundo.
he conocido a muchos de los personajes que le
Pero a diferencia de la mayoría de los turistas
dan identidad a este pueblo terminal. Y a pesar
en transito, yo hice Patagonia mi hogar y el
de haber solo alcanzado a olfatear ese saborcillo
destino me ha permitido venir a esta, la última
tan particular
estación de América, a transformar mi imaginería en imágenes. De pronto, entre la bruma aparecen bosques y fiordos sólo unos instantes antes de
Patagonia will change your life. We can change your money.
que se respira en Navarino, en la semana que perteneci a su historia pude sentir
Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chile
a viva piel que este es
Open all day
sin duda puerto seguro
ph. +56-61 225889
para soñadores y sus emprendimientos.
tocar tierra en Isla
Con tanto por hacer,
Navarino. Como?
con un entorno tan
No hay taxis, y como
lleno de magia y
me voy al pueblo? Hay
desafíos y con una
cosas que sólo tienen sen-
comunidad a es-
tido en realidades como
cala humana, este
las de Puerto Williams.
es puerto para
Ya instalado en Pusaki,
hacer de tu vida
Hostal que llamare hogar
algo monu-
por siempre, me lanzo a la
mental, para
aventura incierta de desentra-
marcar la
ñar el alma de este pueblo. A
diferencia,
unos pocos metros y atraído por
para hacer
la graciosa expresión de su perro, tropiezo con Pikindeil, ex marino
Money Exchange
patria, para hacer historia, para hacer empresa, para
y dueño del Albatros, el único bar
hacer el cambio, para conservar. Y a pesar de la
del pueblo. Con “el loco” compartimos unos
distancia, el clima y los vicios propios de una
minutos de historia y entre risas y sus delirantes
comunidad tan encerrada en si misma, descubrí
expresiones faciales comprendí rápidamente que
un puerto para los sueños más etéreos, conocí a
esta historia no sería de senderos ni atractivos
aquellos que con su trayecto por la vida pasarán
turísticos, que Williams es lo que es gracias a
a la historia del Cabo de Hornos con sus sueños.
su gente y que cada uno de sus atractivos tiene
Al despegar, navarino me despide con un tibio
una historia, es el resultado de los sueños de uno
sol pero me ofrece tímida y respetuosa su sen-
de los personajes de Williams. Es así que los
sual silueta de costa y ondonadas, de montañas
invito a descubrir en las ediciones venideras,
y fiordos interminables. Más que un adiós, le
aquellas historias que viven tras ese rostro que
lanzo un hasta pronto y comienzo a recorrer
miles de visitantes observan pero muy pocos
en mi cabeza todos esos momentos, todos esos
alcanzan a conocer. Aquellas vidas e historias
personajes y sus historias que son simplemente
que dan identidad propia a esta comunidad, que
el alma de Puerto Williams.
son el alma de Williams.
your food. Using a wind shield will aim the heat up and under your pot. If you don´t have a aluminum wind screen, rock from your campsite will also help protect your heat. - Many outdoor manufactures (such as MSR) now make heat exchangers that fit around you pot as an insulation. Between this and a wind screen, you can cook in almost any conditions.
Bulnes 285 ph (56-61) 411263 (56-61)411129 ex. 148 e-mail museonat23mail.cl Mon - Fri 8:00 - 19:00 Sat 10:00-13:00 / 15:00 – 20:00 Entrance $500 CLP (National Visitor) $1000 CLP (International Visitor) Children up to 12 years old free of charge
November 2006
10
Porteadores
By Alexis Tapia Cruz
Una fuerza laboral que mueve un parque
con las necesidades del momento en el parque. El
uso de esta fuerza laboral que mueve un parque
Creo que en el parque hay personas muy conocidas
Con una visión interna los “porteadores”,
por eso que urge una asociación para darle el res-
contratar sus servicios sin un seguro mínimo de
el él. Sería mezquino al mencionar algún nombre.
algunos conocidos, otros de caras nuevas, son una
peto a un trabajo duro del cual no pueden prescind-
realidad en el parque, que cada año se ha ido in-
ir las compañías de turismo y también escaladores.
crementando, con buenos y malos momentos, de
Solo es cosa de encontrarles por los senderos y te
caminatas largas y agotadoras, azotadas por las in-
darás cuenta de quienes son: en sus shorts y pol-
clemencias del clima que son conocidas por todos
eras con manga corta, con una mochila enorme,
los que trabajamos en estos hermosos parajes.
generalmente corriendo y con una sonrisa agotada.
Si bien no están en algún tipo de asoci-
Siempre te preguntaras ¿cuanto peso lleva? ¡Uf, es
ación que les permite organizarse mejor, hay al-
harto! Es por eso que deberían regularizarse entre
gunos de ellos que esperan y como pequeñas “mi-
ellos en un todo, reglamentado y sus rodillas y es-
croempresas”, cada uno de ellos están cumpliendo
paldas a la larga se los agradecerán.
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
estigma que llevan de malos hábitos es fuerte. Es
Las empresas de turismo que hacen
deberían exigirles y no optar por lo más barato y salud. Ya las hay pero faltan, solo así se le dará la real importancia a este trabajo.
He visto en cinco años a muchas perso-
nas porteando, incluso guías, personal logístico de campamentos y mujeres. En realidad, es un
trabajo no mal pagado, tentador en ocasiones, así
por ejemplo cuando viene algún tipo de filmación como comerciales que son por poco tiempo, traen mucho equipo y es allí donde el porteador tome
más importancia. Son jornadas extensas, extenuantes, pero así también es el dinero que se recibe.
en este trabajo por todos aquellos que trabajamos
También sus anécdotas trabajando son alegres, si quieres divertirte y pasar un buen rato, conversa
con ellos cuando les encuentres descansando ya en cada camping.
Para terminar, solo quiero agradecer al
Black Sheep por preocuparse de ellos, tomar la visión diferente y mostrársela al público, dando a conocer así un noble trabajo.
11
Gauchos and Baqueanos by Max Salas “Gauchos”, heard this word? I dare say that you have, but, have you ever heard of “Baqueanos”? I am afraid you probably haven’t. Before going into that, let us define what and where Patagonia is from a geographic viewpoint. We can say that it is a territory shared by southern Argentina and southern Chile and also that its original inhabitants, where first known as “Patagonians”. They lived on both sides of the artificial borderline, therefore all of their country – is Patagonia, the land of the Patagonians. However, although the line that separates these countries is an artificial division, there is a main difference between Chilean and Argentinean (Pantagonia). The Argentinean part belongs to the Atlantic basin which extends, like a huge bed sheet, from the peaks of the Andes to the Atlantic coast, more than one thousand kilometres away. It is a plain, dry, windy and boringly flat land known as the pampa. This is the land of the famous steak eaters, the Gauchos. They are the equivalent of the American cowboys. From the southern part of Brazil all the way down to the wild south Atlantic coast line, the gauchos and their horses rule country life. On the Chilean side though, there is no space for the outspoken and party loving “Gauchos”. Western Patagonia (the part that now belongs to Chile) is of a very different morphology, therefore requires very different skills. If you grab any world map you will immediately see, that this part of Patagonia is a huge mess. Long and narrow fjords, irregular mountain chains, huge ice fields, infinite numbers of lakes and rivers, all this forms a very difficult terrain full of microclimates and tricky passes. Such countryside requires very special and unique type of country people. That is where the “Baqueanos” come in. Some define a “Baqueano” as: an expert, and it is partially true. A “Baqueano” not only knows the horse and cattle business, he most of all needs to know his territory. No matter how big and difficult a river seems, the “Baqueano” knows when and where to cross it. A glacier might be enormous, but the “Baqueano” knows how to cut through and how to get with the cattle to the other side. A Baqueano is also a solitary, but he is not something like a cave man or similar, no, a common characteristic of a Baqueano’s hut or house is normally immaculately clean…with a few exceptions, of course. He usually lives alone, for long seasons he stays there taking care of the animals, breaking horses and then, before the season changes, he is back on the trail herding the cattle. This is the main difference in between a “Gaucho” and a “Baqueano”, both are great horse people and hard workers, but the first ones know how to work in the monotony of the endless pampas, sharing their skills and time with others like him, while the “Baqueano” knows how to move in the tricky and difficult territory of western Patagonia in solitude and always staying “cool”. Between these two Patagonian cowboys there is no rivalry, but a true mutual respect. In fact, a “Baqueano” who wants to say that someone is a good guy will say: “He is a real “gaucho””. And a gaucho who wants to talk of someone that really knows his stuff will say “he is a proper “Baqueano””. November 2006
Pebre Chacaneitor by Miguel Angel Chacana
Perhaps during your stay in Chile you have noticed a piquant sauce served with your meals at restaurants. Try making it yourself with the following recipe: 1⁄2 kg. chili cream (red) 1 cup minced onion. 1 cup minced coriander. 1 spoonful fine minced garlic 1 spoonful red pepper (cut in little pieces) 1 spoonful green pepper (cut in little pieces) Salt, oregano, black pepper and powdered cumin to taste 3 spoonfuls marigold oil. wine vinegar Mix all the ingredients in bowl, adding wine vinegar till the sauce gets a soft slippery texture. Store in a plastic or glass container, in a fresh, dry place or in the fridge. Use to spread on bread, sandwich, as a dip for vegetable crudites, all kinds of meat, fish, soups, cheese, and many other meals. WARNING: Avoid leaving the sauce within reach of children under 12, in case of accidentally eating just sip natural water and breathe normally.
Local history
Puerto Bories, Chile There is the place in Patagonia where hardworking colonists arrived from Europe at end of the nineteenth century and gave life to promising cattle industry. This began in 1877 when the first 300 sheep were introduced from the Falkland Islands, Pto. Bories. The visionary German colonist, Rodolfo Stubenrauch, began with the construction in 1905 when he established a talloshop. In the coming years, the biggest Patagonian company, “Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego”, created in 1893, built the large factory called Frigorifico Bories. Here they proccessed thousands of sheep by the year 1915. These magnificent buildings, made of brick, remind us of the post-Victorian ages with its European style. It is easy to recognize the locomotive garage, the workshop, the old employees office, the big skin-building and the talloshop. Also you can see the weighing room, which is in front of the dock where the big ships arrived from Europe. They came to obtain the frozen products, which were exported mainly to England. The boiling room and machines room, symbolizes the energetic heart of the refrigeration industry and the tremendous progress achieved in the early years of the twentieth century. This museum is the silent reflection of the thousands of colonists who tirelessly worked and formed the future of these southern landscapes, specially Last Hope which by itself, grew and gave birth to the city Puerto Natales, in 1911.
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia www.aquanativapatagonia.com
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Only 5 km from Punta Arenas… Lodging, regional foods and programs in a traditional Patagonian style.
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ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281 www.soloexpediciones.net
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José Nogueira 1255 Punta Arenas ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281 www.soloexpediciones.net www.soloexpediciones.com
Telefonos importantes Puerto Natales
12 Puerto Natales Map & Phone Numbers Emergency Ambulance Fire Police Hospital Punta Arenas Hospital Pto. Natales Navimag Pto. Montt Pto. Natales Airlines DAP Lan Chile Sky Airlines Aerolineas del Sur Aiports Pto. Montt Pta. Arenas Santiago Tourism CONAF Sernatur
131 132 133 (61) 205000 (61) 411582 (65) 432300 (61) 411642 (61) 223340 (61) 6005262000 (61) 6006002828 (61)800710300 (65) 294161 (61) 211731 (02) 6901752 (61) 411438 (61) 412125
Ph ( 56 Blan -61) 41 226 co Enca 4725 la Pto Na da Chil tales, e
Boating trips - Ultima Esparanza - 2 hours Puerto Natales City Tour Multiple Depatures Daily
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Start your trip with a good breakfast & real coffee. Starting a 7:00am. This coupon redeemable for
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Blanca Encalada 226 - Puerto Natales, Chile Trekking - Horseback Riding - Birdwatching - Photo Safari - Whale Watching - Kayaking
Your Park Map Don’t forget...
EBERHARD 230 / CASILLA 42 PUERTO NATALES / CHILE PH 56 61 411835 / INFO@CHILENATIVO.COM www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Your park map that you receive at the entrance contains a lot of useful information. On the map itself you will find average trekking times from camp to camp, as well as the bus roads. On the backside of the map you will find a great elevation gain grid, distances in kilometers and a rating system. The reverse side of the map also has sunrise and sunset times and info on flora and fauna. ...but oh yeah, it’s all in spanish.
13
Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Questions & Answers Are there any internet cafes on Isla Navarino? Yes! But the connection is not so good. The two cyber cafés are at the Akainij travel agency in the centro comercial and the other is up the hill and is called Cape Horn Net Cyber Café. Can I rent equipment on Isla Navarino? Turismo Shila in the Centro Comercial provides a range of camping equipment. Another possibility is to take a guide which provides the equipment. Where can I find camping gas? Turismo Shila as well as some hostels sell camping gas. What can I find to do in downtown Pto. Williams? Well….you´ll just have to come and find out. How old is this town? The town was established in 1953 as a naval base. Why is the town here? Geopolitics. Can I drink the water on Isla Navarino?
How do I get to Puerto Williams? To get to Isla Navarino/Puerto Williams you have three main choices: The first is the slightly uncomfortable but adventurous ferry that takes you 36 hours from Punta Arenas, the second is the twin otter that flies you across the Darwin ranges and takes you 1 hour and 15 minutes, and the third is to go via Ushuaia and cross the beagle channel by zodiac. The choice is yours. Where is the downtown of Pto Willliams? It is strange to think that such a small place seems to have two centers. One is the centro commercial where you will find the post and DAP office, and then there are the supermarkets which are found facing each other along the road Piloto Pardo. Where can I sleep? There are actually quite few places to stay. Some are cheaper than others. There is a luxuary hotel which is pretty expensive, and then there is a range of hostels and residenciales around town.
Beagle Channel
Puerto Williams, Chile
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Yes you can, but be careful with drinking the water from beaver dams. Are there any animals I need to worry about on Navarino? Not really, but sometimes the dogs can be an annoyance. Do I have to pay anything to trek on the Dientes? Nope, free! Where do I start my trek? At Pilot Pardo Street - the cops. You have to leave info about your itinerary and return date. From there you can head to either one of the two trailheads. How do I get to Ushuia from here? Ushuaia is NORTH (as in not south) from Williams. There is a Zodiac which has regular crossing from Isla Navarino to Ushuaia. Its fairly pricey but still a good option if you don’t want to backtrack. Information for this can be found at Café Angelus at the Centro Comercial. Where can I find an Dientes map? Ooooo. That’s a tough one. There are Trekking guides available at the tourism agencies. Because there were only a few printed they usually ask you to photocopy them. Why are half of the buildings white in Pto. Williams? The white buildings are the armada, (navy), buildings which house their offices and families. Is there a money machine in Williams? Yep, and it is 24hrs as well. Its at the Banco de Chile.
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Can I rent a car in Pto. Williams? No. What time do the stores open? Usually between 1000 and 1300, and then from 1600/1700 to 2000. The supermarkets are open from nine in the morning to twelve at night. How many people visit Williams in a season? Well, in a year there are about 8000 visitors to the island. Of this about 6000 are cruiseship passengers and 2000 overnight tourists that usually go trekking. How big is Isla Navarino? 40 by 100KM. Why does everyone say that Ushuia is the southernmost city in the world? This has been a false rumor that has been circulating for years to draw people to Ushuaia. Some say there are differences between a city and a town, but whatever - there is no place to live further south then Puerto Willliams. How far is Cape Horn? Its about 165km south of Puerto Williams. Can I get to Cape Horn or Antarctica from Puerto Williams? Yes you can, but it will cost ya. Several yachts leave Puerto Williams to these destinations during the summer season. Are there any other towns on Isla Navarino? Yes, but they are even smaller. Puerto Toro is truly the southernmost town in the world and is only reached by boat. Puerto Navarino is basically two families big and then there are some farms around. What is the population of Puerto Williams? 2262
Patagonias Airlines
Aerovías DAP - Uniendo la Patagonia Aerovías DAP, es la empresa de transporte aéreo de la Patagonia, territorio que presenta una extensión de más de un millón de kilómetros cuadrados de bosques, glaciares, pampas y cumbres del fin del mundo. La inmensidad y lejanía de estas tierras, junto a las difíciles condiciones climáticas hacen de la conectividad un desafió permanente, tarea que por mas de 20 años, DAP ha desarrollado de manera integral. Unir las localidades más australes y realizar vuelos al continente Antártico, es sin duda un gran logro, que ha permitido que personas de todo el mundo se deleiten, exploren y conozcan estos prístinos paisajes. Volar junto a aerovías DAP, es una aventura sin límites, que permite llegar a retiradas localidades y a tierras casi inexploradas por el hombre, donde solo habitan especies que logran soportar temperaturas y condiciones extremas. DAP a través de sus vuelos regulares y vuelos charter pueden alcanzar cualquier punto geográfico de Magallanes y Antártica Chilena, una región llena de secretos y leyendas. La empresa cuenta con una variada flota de aviones y helicópteros los cuales November 2006
cumplen con todas las normas de seguridad necesarias sumadas a la experiencia de pilotos de reconocida trayectoria. Entre su flota se destacan: Aviones DASH - 7 , TWIN OTTER DHC- 6, BEECHCRAFT, CESSNA 402 , HELICÓPTEROS AS 355, HELICÓPTEROS BO-105, AERORESCATE -BO-105. Además, de transporte de pasajeros y carga, cabe destacar que la empresa DAP cuenta con servicios en las siguientes áreas: servicios industriales, servicios turísticos, evacuación aeromédicas, control de incendio, transporte de alevines, transporte de prácticos, entre otros. Con la experiencia e impecable trayectoria de esta empresa por los cielos australes, usted puede estar confiado de recorrer la Patagonia en buenas manos.
Informaciones y reservas: O´Higgins 891 Tel.: 56-61-223340 E-mail: ventas@aeroviasdap.cl Punta Arenas - Chile
Making your adventure possible... www.aeroviadap.cl ventas@aeroviadap.cl
Flights - DAP Information Punta Arenas - Porvenir - Puerto Williams Frequency From To Mon to P. Arenas Porvenir Sat Porvenir P. Arenas Mon, Wed, P. Arenas Porvenir Fri Porvenir P. Arenas Mon to P. Arenas P. Williams Sat P. Williams P. Arenas Tuesday P. Arenas P. Williams P. Williams P. Arenas
Time 8.15 8.35 12.30 12.50 10.00 11.30 15.00 16.30
Cost clp RT
$35.503 $35.503 $98.639 $98.639
14 Now printable from ANYWHERE in the world... Isla Navarino Trekking Guide
Cerro Bandera circuit: Starting from la Cascada de la Virgen,
Bandera and ends at the Etno-Botanic Omara park. This is a great
located 3 km from downtown, this roundtrip circuit takes approxi-
trek for viewing the abundant vegetation of Isla Navarino and its
mately 4 hours, with easy to moderate difficulty. From the summit
beautiful landscapes.
point you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Beagle Channel and
Circuito Dientes de Navarino: This is the southern most trekking
circuit in the world. The 53km takes at least 4 days. The difficulty is
moderate to difficult. The climate conditions are absolutely a deter-
mining factor in the completion of the circuit (September-April).
Sendero de Chile: Isla Navarino holds the last 4.5km of the south-
ernmost section of the longerst trek in the world. This section on Isla
Navarino begins in the Cascada Róbalo area, on the way to Cerro
For more detailed information about Isla Navarino trekking contact the Puerto Williams municipality at municipalidad@municipalidadcabodehornos.cl. Most newer guidebooks include a Isla Navarino section althought the information is limited. Inquire locally and be prepared for the unexpected. Head out fully equipped with extra food, fuel and time.
Kooch; el creador de la Patagonia
www.susalatino.com
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Rustike es re fram · Pictu · Crafts s p am s · Art les · L s r Cand se · Mirro andicraft Incen ed glass · H Stain
Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile
reservas@hostalalcazar.cl All private bathrooms! www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Circuito Caleta Eugenia to Puerto Toro
by V. Irribarra
Leyenda Popular del Pueblo Aónikenk Este relato mágico es una invitación de los antiguos para que durante tu estadía en la Patagonia contemples sus hermosos paisajes donde los diferentes elementos se entremezclan caprichosos para entregarnos colores, luces y formas siempre cambiantes...y tal vez la próxima ves que observes la pampa, el mar o las montañas australes recordaras que detrás de ellos esta la benevola mano de Kooch...
O
N A US
Hostel Oro Fueguino ALIS
M.Balmaceda 722 • • 412889
Circuito Punta Rosales to Lago Windhond.
TR
WWW.HOSTALALCAZAR.CL
Circuito Caleta Unión to Caleta Wulaia
también que el giro de su mano origino una chispa, y que esa chispa se convirtió en el sol, Xàleshen, como llamaban los tehuelches al gran astro, el cual se levanto sobre el mar e ilumino ese paisaje magnifico. A su vez, Xaleshen formo las nubes, que de allí en masa se pusieron a vagar, incansables, por el cielo matizando el agua con su sombra, pintándola con grandes manchones oscuros... Luego Kòoch se dedico a su obra maestra. Primero hizo surgir del agua una isla muy grande, y luego dispuso allí los animales, los pájaros, los insectos y los peces. Y el viento, el sol y las nubes encontraron tan hermosa la obra de Kòoch que se pusieron de acuerdo para hacerla perdurar: el sol iluminaba y calentaba la tierra, las nubes dejaban caer la lluvia bienhechora, el viento se moderaba para dejar crecer los pastos... la vida era dulce en la pacífica isla de Kòoch. Entonces el creador, satisfecho, se alejo cruzando el mar. A su paso hizo surgir otra tierra cercana y se marcho rumbo al horizonte, de donde nunca mas volvió...”
“...Dicen los antiguos que hace muchísimo tiempo no había tierra, ni mar, ni sol..... Solamente existía la densa y húmeda oscuridad de las tinieblas...En medio de ella vivía, eterno Kòoch. Nadie sabe por que, un día Kòoch, que siempre había estado “bastado a si mismo”, se sintió muy solo y se puso a llorar, lloró tantas lagrimas, durante tanto tiempo que con su llanto formo el mar, el inmenso océano donde la vista se pierde... Cuando Kòoch se dio cuenta de que el agua crecía y que estaba a punto de cubrirlo todo, dejo de llorar y suspiro. Y ese suspiro tan hondo fue el primer viento, que empezó a soplar constantemente, abriéndose paso entre la niebla y la oscuridad, así Kooch creo la luz...Algunos dicen que fue así, por los empujones del viento, que la niebla se disipo, otros creen que en la oscuridad, Kooch levanto el brazo y con su gesto hizo un enorme tajo en las tinieblas. Dicen
PATAG
Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales tel: 413829
Entre los más hermosos relatos pertenecientes a la cosmovisión del pueblo Aónikenk o Tehuelche (pueblo nómade, cazador y recolector que habitaba la región a la llegada de los Europeos junto con los kaweskar y yamanas de los canales australes y los Selk’nam de Tierra del Fuego), se encuentra el relato de la creación de la Patagonia por manos de Kooch, al cual se debería la existencia de sus inconfundibles elementos... el mar, la luz, el sol, el viento, las nubes y la vida sobre la tierra... este relato nos habla también de la cercana relación de este pueblo con la Patagonia vasta y diversa, dependiendo para su subsistencia de los recursos naturales, animales y vegetales aquí existentes.
Hand Crafts
Private & group yoga sessions daily
Other circuits in Navarino:
LAPISLAZULI JEWLERY
HAND CRAFTS
DECORATIONS
Carlos Bories 278 Puerto Natales, Chile phone (56-61) 410913 pedroblu@hotmail.com
Fagnano 356
Phone/FAX (56-61) 246677 Celular 09-1619890
Dientes de Navarino range.
Punta Arenas - CHILE
Reservations: orofueguino@terra.cl www.orofueguino.com
15
Cooking up a Miracle by Andrew Wade I am from the United States and teach English at the Liceo Politecnico, a technical high school in Puerto Natales. For weeks prior to my first day of classes, I was riddled with anxiety, full of questions and doubts that could not be answered or pacified until the first bell sounded. What types of things are students interested in down here? Will their passions be consistent with mine? How do I bridge the cultural gap? Do they like Hemingway? Do they know Hemingway? Within moments of entering the class and beginning my introduction, I realized my anxiety had been in vain; the answers to the questions which only moments before I considered crucial were suddenly irrelevant, obsolete. The applicable question in the case of my students is not, do you like Hemingway, but rather, why is there value in someone hypothetically liking Hemingway, or anything for that matter, that is taught through formal education. The daunting challenge I face is convincing the students at my school that knowledge in general, and education specifically, is extremely important, if not for its own sake, than at least for the opportunities it provides. There is a tenth grade student in my school named Fancisco. His mother was a prostitute and his father also named Francisco, was a fisherman. Unfortunately, shortly after Francisco Junior’s birth, his mother abandoned him, as she did her two other children, leaving Francisco senior to raise the children alone. This proved especially difficult because for weeks at a time Francisco senior would be at sea earning the money necessary to keep his children healthy and fed. He is virtually illiterate, with no formal education, making it all but impossible to change careers to something that would keep him consistently employed closer to home. Victor, Fransisco Junior’s older brother, decided to follow in his father’s footsteps by dropping out of school and fishing. One day out at sea, while attempting to pull in his catch, his jacket became entangled with the net and he was pulled overboard, swallowed up by the freezing water never to be seen again. Not long did the family have to grieve before news that Francisco Senior had contracted cancer in the pancreas and colon which will shortly take his life. Now Francisco Senior is at a crossroads. He can undergo a relatively risky operation (I use vague language here because statistics are impossible to come by) in an attempt to improve the quality of his life by mitigating his insufferable pain for his final
Tips... Horses on the trail
If you encounter horses or other stock on the trail, move off to the side so they have the freedom to pass. Horse packers prefer it when move off to the down hill side of the trail. This way if their horses spook, they go uphill rather than shooting downhill where it is harder to stay in control. It also helps the horse and rider if you greet them as they are riding up on you. This way the horses are better able to recognize you as a human.
months, or he can simply endure the pain until his time comes and die “naturally.” If Francisco were considering only himself, like most of us, he would opt for the surgery as the medical professionals have strongly recommended. For Francisco, however, the only thing more unbearable than his physical torment is his fear that if he were to die before Francisco Junior was to finish the tenth grade, his son would be left literally alone, would drop out of school, and follow the ill-fated path his father and brother traversed before him. Therefore, Francisco has chosen to bear his suffering and will himself to live until Christmas, at which time his son will have completed the tenth grade and will be eligible to choose a career path to follow for the next two years. In summation, Francisco’s dying wish is to see his son complete the tenth grade. What about after Christmas? What happens when his father finally capitulates and cancer claims yet another victim? These are the questions I hope we can answer together, with a collective will strong enough to overcome the seemingly insurmountable hurdles Francisco Junior now faces. How? We can start by providing him with incentives to continue his education. If Francisco remains in school, even after his father passes away, he needs to receive tangible incentives to help him on his way. The first step, however, is to expose Francisco Junior to different career choice alternatives, which is the primary educational objective of his school. One such alternative that Francisco Junior has expressed interest in is cooking, and our school should aim to provide him with as much information and support for that pursuit as possible. In collaboration with the school, we can raise money to provide him with cookbooks, literature on the culinary arts and cooking supplies. Additionally, on a slightly grander scale, we could fund cooking classes or offer him a year free of charge at a Patagonian cooking school. Francisco senior, without financial aid or ideological backing from his community, and despite his crippling physical anguish and imminent death, still holds his son’s education paramount. If we answer the call, and help this boy realize the power of education, the news will permeate through the school, inspiring others who are disillusioned with the system and have little hope for a bright future. Comprehending and appreciating Hemingway would have been an amazing feat, but I feel I found a more fundamental lesson to teach the students of my school, one I hope they will appreciate long after I am gone. If you wish to help, you can make a donation at Mandala Andino, address 161 Eberhard or Erratic Rock Hostel -or you can email me at: andrewwade18@hotmail.com
S urvival O utdoor S tore Gore-Tex Sleepingbags Tents Soft shells Socks T-shirts Underware Fleece Official Torres del Paine® dealer Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl
November 2006
Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Tourist Directory Hostales/Hostels
Fono/Phone
Direccion/Adress
e-mail address
Cabo de Hornos Camblor Coirón Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos Lajuwa Patagonia Pusaki Yagan Hospedaje Akainij Hotel Lakutaia Refugio El Padrino
621067 621033-621384 621227-621227 621140-621359 621267 621267-621075 621116-621224 621118-621334 621173-621173 621733-621298 621136
Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Uspashun 64 Villa Ukika Yelcho 230 Piloto Pardo 222 Piloto Pardo 260 Austral 22 Seno Lauta s/n Costanera 276
purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com hostalcoiron@tie.cl rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostallajuwa@yahoo.es pedroortiz@chilesat.net pattypusaki@yahoo.es hostalyagan@hotmail.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com gerencia@lakutaia.cl ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
Restaurantes/ Restaurants Café Agelus Club naval de yates Micalvi Cabo de Hornos Camblor Dientes de Navarino Patagonia
621080 621042 621067 621033-621384 621074 621267-621075
Centro comercial norte 151 Seno Lauta Costanera s/n Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Centro comercial Sur 14 Yelcho 230
caminito@123mail.cl fgascogner@yahoo.es purisimaguarda@hotmail.com hostalcamblor@hotmail.com
Agencias de turismo/ Tourist agencies Turismo Akainij 621327-621173 Turismo aventura Shila 621366 Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Turismo SIM 621150- 621225 Agencia Native tours 621183 Agencia Victory Cruises 621010-621092
Centro comercial Sur 156 O´Higgins 322 Uspashun 64 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Centro Comercial Sur 154b Teniente Muñoz 118
turismoakainij@chileaustral.com turismoshila@gmail.com rorellana@hostalforjadoresdelcabodehornos.cl hostalcoiron@tie.cl maurice.vandemaele@gmail.com www.victory.cruises.com
Café Internet/ Cyber Café Cape Horn Net cyber café Turismo Akainij
Teniente Muñoz 118 Centro comercial Sur 156
captainben@victory-cruises.com turismoakainij@chileaustral.com
Tiendas de Souvenier/Giftshops 55°Sur 621265 Isla hornos souvenier 621734
Centro comercial norte 147 Centro comercial sur 140b
fgascogner@yahoo.es
Servicio de guias/guide services Fuegia&CO
Yelcho 232
fuegia@usa.net
621010-621092 621327-621173
621251
pedroortiz@chilesat.net
Transporte/Transports Servicio de taxi Servicios maritimos y turisticos Aerovias DAP Ushuaia boating Lancha peregrino austral Lancha Dep. Ultramar agencia maritima
621387 621015 621114-621051 54 2901 436193 621015 621294-621075 621049
Mario Leal 145 Costanera 436 Centro comercial sur 151 Gob.Godoy 190-Ususahia Costanera 436 Yelcho 230 Arturo Prat 35
jgodoy@terra.cl ventas@aeroviasdap.cl ushuaiaboagting@argentina.com peregrinoaustral@terra.cl pedroortiz@chilesat.net isiagredo@ultramar.cl
Otros Servicios Cabalgatas el padrino Museo Martin Gusinde Sabores del Beagle
621136 621043 621136
Costanera 262 Com.Aragay 1 esq.Gusinde costanera s/n
ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar pgrendi@yahoo.com ceciliamancillao@yahoo.com.ar
16 Escuela de Guías de la Patagonia -Francisco Vio Giacaman ambiente y el cuidado de los equipos.
de la comunicación entre el hombre y el caballo,
Dentro de nuestro programa buscamos apor-
que han sabido entender que no es necesario
tar con nuevas formas de ir desarrollando y
utilizar métodos violentos para lograr que el
potenciando la actividad turística en ambientes
caballo haga lo que queramos.
Naturales. Las Cabalgatas son una actividad
Muchas de estas personas son personas de
en crecimiento y por ello buscamos entregar
campo, de vida simple y honesta; y justamente
también herramientas para aprender a domar
por su condición y por el medio natural en el
caballos en forma racional; preparando caballos
que se han criado y viven, tenían una sensi-
para realizar actividades ecuestres de calidad
bilidad que les permitía mantener canales de
tanto para los visitantes como para los caballos.
comunicación con los animales y que podían no tan solo entenderlos sino predecir sus conductas
DOMA RACIONAL
y reacciones. Esperamos que esto sea un aporte y contribuya
Desde hace unos cuantos años, amantes del ca-
a que en Magallanes se popularice esta técnica
ballo, dispersos por el planeta, han comenzado
y que permita que las cabalgatas y actividades
a investigar sobre diferentes métodos y técnicas
ecuestres (así como con otros animales), se
para conocer, acercarnos y domar al caballo sin
realicen en un clima sano y sin violencia.
necesidad de recurrir a la violencia; se han de-
Contribuyendo así a que vivamos mejor en este
sarrollado sistemas de doma de potros, basados
mundo.
principalmente en la psicología y los distintos tañismo, kayak de mar, cabalgatas y doma racio-
comportamientos del caballo: dichos métodos
Como escuela de guías de la patagonia estamos
nal de caballos.
son los conocidos como “doma natural”, “doma
muy contentos y orgullosos de haber contri-
Escuela de Guías de la Patagonia, de la región
Dentro del programa de formación buscamos
racional”, “doma india”, entre otros.
buido y apoyado al desarrollo de este curso
de Aysén realiza un programa de formación de
formar a personas para que sean capaces de
La Doma Racional o Natural, la debemos
2006; nos sentimos vinculados y parte de este
guías locales de la provincia de Ultima Esper-
ofrecer un servicio de calidad, con seguridad,
entender como un concepto amplio que nos
proceso de mejorar la calidad y el servicio de
anza, de la región de Magallanes en habilidades,
informando adecuadamente y en forma entre-
obliga a realizar un esfuerzo intelectual para
la oferta turística del turismo de naturaleza en
técnicas y destrezas relacionadas con el turismo
tenida a clientes que buscan una experiencia
intentar comprender a los caballos, debemos ser
Magallanes. Estaremos atentos a poder con-
aventura; denominado técnicas para el desar-
exitosa en la naturaleza. El Parque Nacional
nosotros los que nos adaptemos a sus pautas de
tinuar compartiendo y combinando una oferta
rollo de actividades de turismo aventura dirigido
Torres del Paine fue nuestra sala de clases, por
comportamiento y a sus necesidades y no a la
integrada de los territorios australes de Chile.
a guias turísticos. El programa ha contado con el
ello reforzamos fuertemente el programa de No
inversa como se pretende habitualmente.
apoyo de programa territorial integrado turismo
Deje Rastro; educando a estos guías para con-
No debemos ver la Doma Natural como un
sustentable – corfo / sercotec / red proturismo /
vertirse en monitores del programa de NO DEJE
sistema más o menos novedoso para domar
asociación de guías de ultima esperanza
RASTRO, el que busca educar en técnicas
caballos, quien se enfrenta a otros sistemas
El curso de formación se realizó durante 25
fáciles y simples para minimizar los impactos de
que podemos considerar más tradicionales. Ni
días donde los 11 guías se formaron y recibi-
los visitantes en las áreas silvestres protegidas.
mucho menos. La Doma Natural no es un siste-
eron retroalimentación en sus habilidades para
Nuestra metodología educativa se basa en
ma, pues cada domador tiene el suyo propio. La
desempeñarse ofreciendo un servicio de calidad,
ofrecer un programa que oriente a los guías en
Doma Natural es una postura, si se quiere una
seguro y confiable en ambientes naturales. En el
técnicas de comunicación y educación mediante
filosofía sobre como queremos que sea nuestra
modulo de kayak hemos invitado a un miembro
la estimulación de los 5 sentidos (el oler, el de-
relación con los caballos. Todos aspiramos a
de la Armada de Chile, de la capitanía de puerto
gustar, el tacto, el escuchar y el ver). Buscamos
tener una buena relación con nuestros caballos,
de Puerto Natales; para que aprendan técnicas y
que los guías potencien su autenticidad, de su
una relación basada en la confianza mutua en
destrezas en el manejo de kayak de mar de esta
cultura, costumbres y tradiciones, buscamos
vez de en el miedo, que quieran estar junto a
manera entendiendo la actividad turística que en
entregar herramientas para usar un estilo de
nosotros, que se les note alegres y relajados.
esta área se esta desarrollando fuertemente en la
liderazgo autentico que potencia a las personas,
La Doma Racional consiste en una serie de
zona del Río Serrano.
facilita el liderazgo y la toma de decisiones en
técnicas, la mayoría de ellas muy antiguas, que
Dentro del programa se han cubierto técnicas y
circunstancias complejas. Basamos el programa
han sido recopiladas de distintas escuelas, de
destrezas relacionadas con el trekking, mon-
en técnicas seguras para las personas, el medio
diversas culturas, de mucha gente conocedora
Por segundo año consecutivo la
Cheese, wines & bread
www.escueladeguias.cl
“Ser una institución reconocida como modelo en la gestión educativa de profesionales que trabajan en espacios naturales. Preparando personas capaces de educar, guiar y orientar a otros en forma entretenida, segura e informada en la naturaleza, así como ser gestores de desarrollo local para un crecimiento igualitario, sustentable y comunitario”.
All you can eat...
Raices Patagonicas
Restaurant
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Whalesound
17
by Trevor Clark the boat. As we cautiously approached this hump-
rolled over, spouted and
nature films you see on television are made”,
“This is the kind of place where those
back it would surface two or three times, exhale
finally raised a flipper
one of my fellow travellers said to me as we
and inhale, and then deep dive, surfacing again
out of the water as if
stood aboard the upper deck of the 15-metre long
several minutes later but heading in the opposite
to wave at us from her
vessel, Esturion. It was our first morning out at
direction. According to Juan, who was on board
watery abode. Seconds
Whalesound and we had not yet been particularly
with us, humpbacks generally submerge for five
later her calf attempted
successful at tracking down the normally abundant
to ten minutes but can stay down for upwards of
to imitate. Then, being
humpback whales.
twenty. This one he quickly identified as the ¨not so
awakened in the middle
So what if we haven’t seen too much yet, ¨ he
friendly one¨, EM036. It did not want to play and
of the night by the
continued. ¨Just being here is amazing.¨
was putting its own diving capabilities to good use.
sound of waves lapping
He was right, I reflected. In fact, being at least an
This starkly contrasted with our arrival at Whale-
at the shore, only to
eight to ten hour boat journey from Punta Arenas,
sound the previous night when another humpback
realize that they weren’t
Chile, the nearest large centre of population, and
had been lunging around less than 50 metres off-
waves at all, but the
deep in the Straight of Magellan where the Atlantic
shore and displacing an incredible volume of water
rhythmic breathing of
and Pacific Oceans intermingle, I couldn’t recall
onto the rocky beach.
one or two whales rest-
ever being in a more wild or remote place.
Research conducted by Juan has identified more
ing in the bay very near
Against a backdrop of verdant green, undulat-
than 55 individual whales. He has achieved this
the camp.
ing mountains and a threatening sky wheeled
by photographing the underside of each whales´
The Whalesound camp
Our final morning arrived. I awoke early and
and soared speckled Chilean Skuas and majestic
distinctive ventral fluke – a kind of whale ´finger-
is exactly how it should be – an eco-friendly col-
decided to head down to the communal tent where
black-browed Albatrosses. Near the boat in the
print´ - and dorsal fin. Genetic sampling from these
lection of geodesic white dome tents complete with
I knew Javier would be preparing another great
blue-green water an occasional Magellenic penguin
very same whales has indicated that many of them
extremely comfortable beds and luxurious sleeping
breakfast. The boardwalk was wet from overnight
would surface and then flee in surprise from this
undertake a winter migration as far north as Co-
bags, all resting on wooden platforms and intercon-
rain but the sky was mostly clear, thus revealing a
strange and noisy man-made creature. From the
lumbia, where Juan participates in another project
nected by a series of lumber gangplanks. This helps
dusting of snow on the surrounding mountains. The
fractured and erratic shoreline southern fur seals
with Foundation Yubarta.
to protect the delicate ecosystem of various trees,
sun had only started to rise so as yet none of the
occasionally swam out to investigate the Esturion,
Throughout this great journey the whales encounter
including cipres and canelo, small plants, ferns
daily rainbows had made an appearance.
following in our wake and frequently leaping clear
many environmental hazards, mostly man-made,
and fungus which surround the camp. All waste,
Inside the tent Javier handed me a more than
of the water as if to get a better angle of view. The
including what Juan claims is the greatest threat to
including human, is collected and ferried back to
welcome steaming mug of coffee and we stood
place was exploding with nature.
the entire population – accidental entanglement in
the mainland - though thankfully on a separate boat
looking out the windows. Suddenly, out of the
Most people, however, were here for one reason
massive industrial fishing nets. His concern for the
than the Esturion.
glassy calm water erupted a humpback, its entire
only: the promise of seeing up close the undis-
whales was palpable and certainly understandable
In the communal tent you can expect to be warmed
body nearly completely leaving the sea in three
puted sovereigns of this watery realm, the massive
for he seemed to know these whales personally,
up after a day on the boat by a gently burning fire
successive breeches, each one ending in a cataclys-
humpback whales.
identifying them at great distances, knowing behav-
and some exceptionally good cooking, potentially
mic explosion of foamy white water. She was so
Up until six years ago no one had ever properly
iour and characteristics specific to each, and giving
prepared by Javier, the easy going scientist, come
close to shore we could make out the detail on the
established that these incredibly charismatic sea
them names such as ´Webo´ and ´Sombrero´, all the
entertainer, come chef. Definitely try one of his
underside of her body and flippers. Javier let out
mammals even frequented the area. The only indi-
while keeping his eye out for any newcomers to the
pisco sours!
a little cheer and I felt compelled to do the same.
cator up until then had been scattered records from
area. His knowledge of the animals was impressive.
Areas for potential improvement certainly included
This really was the kind of exotic place where
as early as the 16th Century, mostly
the boat. While it was large enough to
nature films are made. The only catch being it was
from whaling activity. Then came
accommodate everyone it lacked seat-
all the better in real life.
along research scientist Juan Capella
ing, especially in places from where
Whalesound can be contacted at
and his associates, Jorge Gibbons and
you could see the horizon, an essential
www.whalesound.com
Yerko Vilina, who used data from an
element for some people who are not
in-depth scientific survey conducted
used to long hours at sea. At the very
throughout the months of June to
least some kind of handles or railing to
September, from 1997 to 2001,to help
hold onto would have been appreciated
establish that a large population of
by several people on board. Aside from
humpback whales use the area as a
Juan himself there was also a distinct
summer feeding and possibly nursing
lack of any kind of interpretive infor-
ground.
mation about the region or its wildlife,
The prolific numbers of humpbacks
such as posters, on board.
recorded here, particularly around Isla
But it is important to remember, too,
Carlos III, combined with the sheer amount of biological diversity created by the meeting of two very distinct oceans, extreme weather conditions and varied topography led to the creation of Chile’s first marine protected area, the Marine Park Francisco Coloane, named in honour of the now-deceased novelist who drew on the Austral regions´ uniqueness for inspiration. The poor luck on our first outing had truly been a surprise to both us and the crew, who insisted that they had never been out and not seen a whale. The solitary humpback we did encounter was elusive, insisting on playing a game of cat-and-mouse with november 2006
By our next trip out the whales had ceased toying with us and began showing themselves in the numbers we had been expecting. It seemed we couldn’t focus on more than one or two for more than five minutes before another misty spray of whale’s breath erupted somewhere else in the near-distance. The most profound encounters, however, came at seemingly the least expected times, like while sitting and eating lunch at camp only to spot through the window a blast of spray about 300 metres offshore. Within moments a large female tail lobbed (slapping the flat of her tail against the surface of the water) 20 – 30 times, repeatedly
* Two hour ride for 22.000clp *
that when traveling to such isolated and remote research projects as this, particularly those on a limited and limiting scientific budget, one can expect a certain amount of discomfort. It’s all part of the fun and experience and should also provide some kind of insight into the kinds of conditions guys like Juan have to deal with on a day-to-day basis. In his own quiet and unassuming way he admitted to me that despite the cost to paying tourists ¨the research never has enough money.¨ Three hundred people in the summer season would be optimal, he said. At the moment they get about half that, mostly Europeans and North Americans.
Horse riding trips from 2 hours up to 10 days Reservations (+56 61)412221 info@estanciatravel.com www.estanciatravel.com
Or ask at your hotel or travel agent for details
***Accommodation Available***
18 Cave Paintings near Puerto Natales ETNO Natural Park
The new Patagonian Etnonatural Park recently opened to the public. Its main attraction is the sculptural representation of the indigenous Magellan people set against beautiful natural scenes. The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45 minutes and consists of nine displays in which you can see depictions of the first inhabitants of these lands: The Kaweskar, Yamanas, Aonikenk and Selknam. In additon, there is a small cave inside the park, which was once used as a refuge by hunters. On its walls you can see cave paintings of simple shapes but with great symbolic meaning and power. Many of these are geometrical outlines, animal tracks, human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animal figures. Along the path, you can feel the secrets of the spirits in the air, and among the ancient trees of the wooded areas images of the steppe hunters of Tierra del Fuego come to mind, nomadic people and the austral rivers. The Etnonatural Park is outside of Puerto Natales near the Milodon cave at Km 23. The park is open everyday during the week and costs $3.000 per person.
Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile Phone / Fax 56•61•415285
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Handmade Chocolate Gourmet Espresso Real Hot Chocolate
Puerto Natales Day Hike
Tips...
How much water should I drink?
Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two hour hike up Cerro Dorotea. Grab a local taxi and ask them to take you to Mirador Dorotea. It’s a fifteen minute taxi ride and you’ll find yourself on the southern side of Dorotea. Pay the woman about 3000 pesos to cross her property and head off down the trail. The trail is really well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point you get a great view of Natales and Seno Ultima Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif is stunning. After exploring the ridgeline, head down to the lunch that has been prepared for you by the lady of the house. Definately on the top of the list of activities for Puerto Natales. You should be able to swing a deal for about 5000 pesos for the taxi to drop you off and pick you up again a few hours later.
While trekking or climbing the idea is to drink about 3 to 4 quarts a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot dessert you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output. Clear and copious is what you are looking for. Dark yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow - that´s different. If you are feeling thirsty, then you are already down up to a liter of water and may have lost up to 20 percent or your endurance. A headache and/or cramping are also a signs of dehydration. Take the time to drink, don´t be pressured by the clock or the teams agenda. A clever team will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time, then to guzzle down a quart in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to be continually drinking all day. In Torres del Paine, we have one of the last great destinations in the world
Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413306 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122
Secret Reciepe
where you CAN drink water out of the fresh streams and creeks along its trails, although a good water filtration system is always a good idea will trekking abroad.
Pisco Sour Each time you visit a different country, one question always comes to mind: “What’s the food like there?” In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you´re lucky enough, you´ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. Of course, you´ll find these dishes in non-traditional restaurants or at family houses or hostels. You´ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture, which means they are very keen on making drinks based on pisco.
Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs
ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts
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Pisco Sour 3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes. Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add icing sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it is almost a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so go for it and enjoy!
On a bike?
In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera!
If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “el camino a Dumestre”). You will reach the dirt road, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless they seem by the sea. The farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. You’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Península.
Ozone facts for Chile
19
by Herman Klassen
Most of us when planning our trip to Patagonia, are concerned about the high amounts of UV-B radiation. It’s true that the ozone layer is getting thinner and thinner every year because the impact that human activities produce in the modern cycle of life. Here in Patagonia, you have to take care of your skin and eyes. As we are not located in the Equator, the sunrays reach the earth in an angular way, not vertically. This means that the radiation stays longer in the atmosphere and comes to you from a lower point of the horizon. Consequently, the amount of UV-B radiation that penetrates this protecting layer is more important than the Dobson units, which measures the thickness of the ozone layer. The famous ´hole in the ozone´ is located mostly above Antartica but overlaps into Patagonia during part of the year. Protecting your skin and eyes is something to take seriously while in southern Chle. This radiation is higher in Magallanes during spring, but it does not reach the levels to which people from Santiago are exposed during summer. The radiation rate registered in Santiago during summer is equal to 9 microwatts per cm². As for the situation of Punta Arenas, the radiation rate in winter is equal to 8 microwatts per cm², in summer to 5.7 microwatts per cm², in spring it reaches 3.2 microwatts per cm², but it may vary from day to day, reaching summer highest levels. When this happens, people from Magallanes are put on the red alert, as during the past ten years, there had not been such unexpected variations. It is advisable to use, (factor 15) sun creams, in great quantities on the face and neck. If you use it in low quantities, for instance a half spoon dose, it would be equivalent to use a (factor 4) sun cream. So now, buy a good sun protector and go out there to enjoy the marvelous views that nature offers only in Patagonia.
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS TEMPORADA 2006-2007- Regular Schedule
Oct 1 to 15, 2006 October 16 to 31, 2006 November 1 to March 15, 2007
Pudeto
Pehoe
12:00pm 12:00pm
12:30pm 12:30pm
18:00pm
18:30pm
09:30am
10:30am
12:00pm
12:30pm
March 16 to 31, 2006
18:00pm 12:00pm
18:30pm 12:30pm
April 2007
18:00pm 12:00pm
18:30pm 12:30pm
Introducing the fastest way to reach Torres del Paine National Park:
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Patagonia is a once in a lifetime experience. There is too much to see and as usual, limited time. Wherever a flight may save you precious time, NanduAir will offer air taxi services giving you more time at your destination, by using local airplanes and pilots with extensive flying experience in the area.
Puerto Natales
One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed) Round trip ticket $17.000 per person Note: Trips at 09.30 am /10:00 am, no trip on 25/12/2006 and 1/01/2007 Los arrieros 1517. Puerto Natales. Phone 61-411380. Mail: maclean@entelchile.net
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20
Patagonia. It´s home. Hire local.
Fifteen years ago Torres del Paine and Puerto Natales were practically unheard of, other then by a few extreme travelers and scientists. Now, 15 years later, Patagonia and Torres del Paine has shown itself as one of the last truly pristine places on earth. Nobody knows this better then the people who live and work here. Southern Chile has now found itself to be one of the largest international destinations in the world. History has repeatedly shown us the inherent problems with communities turning over their resources and not benefiting from them locally. When you hire locally, you help Patagonia sustain itself for generations to come. The money you spend stays in Patagonia, which in return is used to better the local environment, taxed locally and recycles back into the community. The Ultima Esperanza Guide Association is dedicated to this cause. By hiring a UEGA recognized operator or guide you can be certain that you have access to local professionals as well as help an important local issue.
Patagonia Guide Association
Asociacion Gremial Guias Turismo Ultima Esperanza -
Road scholar
by Thomas S Daly
As you pass from street to street, be it in Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas, navigating with your trusty street-map, do you ever wonder why most of the street names are surnames and who these people actually are? Well, names of past Chilean Presidents have provided some, but as well as these guys they also honour people and places with great significance in their historic development. Here are a few principal street names from Puerto Natales. . . LADRILLEROS
Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor who in 1557 was sent by the Spanish government to find a sea exit from the Magellan Straits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food, energy and the loss of many men he decided that the voyage into the body of water that surrounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope in reaching their goal; hence the name Ultima Esperanza (Last Hope). Incidentally the Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years!
O´HIGGINS
The Liberator Bernardo O´Higgins together with Jose de San Martin crossed from Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army and finally drove out the Spanish. He restored
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Chile´s independence and became Chile´s first President in 1818.
BLANCO ENCALADA
The first Commander of the Chilean Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land of his Chilean mother as his home. A great political figure who was President of the Republic for a mere two months in 1826.
BULNES
Manuel Bulnes, His military victory over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in 1839, secured his personal victory of becoming President of the Republic (1841-1851).
Many years later the Argentineans renamed it in honour of Perito Francisco P. Moreno, an Argentine hydrographer.
saber-toothed tigres, camels, deer and of course the Milodon. Today the Eberhard family still live on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo.
BAQUEDANO
KRUGER
General Manuel Baquedano, defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles (March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and later captured Lima (Jan 1881).
CHORRILLOS
The site of the first battle in the wave to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881).
BALMACEDA
A valiant naval captain who died at the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (THE HUASCAR), accompanied by only one sergeant.
José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal anticlerical group prevented Argentina entering the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide reform program which led to civil war. He later fled to Argentina where he committed suicide.
ESMERALDA
EBERHARD
ARTURO PRATT
The name of Capt Arturo Pratt´s ship in the Battle of Iquique.
TOMAS ROGERS
Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Captain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glaciar. On arrival he named it Francisco Gomaz in honour of the expedition patron.
Captain Hermann Eberhard was an explorer and first settler of the Province of Ultima Esperanza. He named the hill that overlooks Puerto Natales after his first daughter, DOROTEA; And from his second daughter Sofia, he named Lago SOFIA. In 1892 was it was actually one of his workers who discovered the famous Milodon Cave, where remains of prehistoric animals were found including
Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area in the name of Argentina. Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentineans left without fuss. Due to this event the Chilean government populated Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future attempts by the Argentine navy.
PILOTO PARDO
Captain Luis Pardo was a sailor who risked his life, and those of his men to rescue the 22 castaways from the ENDURANCE (Shackleton Expedition 191516). His tugboat “The Yelcho”, had no double hull, no heating, no electric light and no radio. Despite the courageous acts of this man and his crew, Shackleton mentioned Pardo´s name only once in his 386 page book, in the preface!
PEDRO MONTT
Son of the President Manuel Montt Towers. He himself became President of zthe Republic between 1906-1910.