Black Sheep Nov 07 by Rustyn Mesdag

P a t a g o n i a • P u n t a A r e n a s • P u e r t o N a t a l e s • To r r e s d e l P a i n e

November 2007

Volume 3 • Issue 3 • November 2007 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com

cover image by James McDermott

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November.07

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Word from the front line - Rustyn Mesdag, publisher www.patagoniablacksheep.com

Cover Image: Recently while making his way through Patagonia, artist and outdoor enthusiast James McDermott, stayed at erratic rock, which houses the offices of Black Sheep in Puerto Natales. Black Sheep staff soon discovered James was a 10-year veteran artist for Fox networks’ Emmy Award-winning show “King of the Hill,” and soon thereafter asked James to help illustrate for the paper. Upon James’s arrival back home in Los Angeles, he soon found out he won an Emmy of his own for his work as a character design supervisor on Starz networks “Eloise.” James has also worked in advertising for such companies as Pepsi and AT&T, and he created the widely popular “The Mullet Official Reference Guide” poster that has sold over a million copies internationally. Published by Southern Cross Ltda.

The Black Sheep

Patagonias Monthly Travel Newspaper Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56•61 977090141

Publisher: Rustyn Mesdag editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Director: Pilar Irribarra sales@patagoniablacksheep.com

Editor: Heather Poyhonen poyhonenh@yahoo.com

Sales: Sebastian Borgwardt sebastian@patagoniablacksheep.com Punta Arenas

Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com Punta Arenas

Isabel Chamorro Puerto Natales

Anthony Riggs anthony@patagoniablacksheep.com Pucón

Contributors: C.J. Wilson Ellen Mesdag Mauricio Cortes Victoria Mattison

WebMaster: Carla Cuadra webmaster@patagoniablacksheep.com

Consultant: Bill Penhollow Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by Puerto Natales, Chile--the chewy center of Patagonia. The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertizers. We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.

Sunset in Patagonia. Mountains in all directions. With the long daylight hours and the excitement of just being here, you will probably catch one of the breathtaking sunsets off the Straits of Magellan or from the shores of Puerto Natales. The sun sinking behind rugged mountains is always a sure-fire way to make folks stop for a minute and appreciate how insignificant, as people, we are. We sit and watch, from our hostel, bus or campsite, drinking our evening tea or wine... all with the oppritunity to accidentally see this incredible sight. But there’s more than just sunsets. Patagonia now offers sunrises. To witness one of the most dramatic sights in Patagonia (no matter where you are at 5am) the sunrise is a firey display that only lasts a few minutes. But with the long daylight hours in Patagonia, the sun comes up very early, so most of us miss those early morning hours. Being an early riser, at least a few times a week, I sit from my office window and catch these few minutes of beauty, while the rest of Patagonia sleeps. It’s a rare and private moment that makes me feel alive and healthy, waking with nature. Another great way to experience a Patagonian sunrise is within Torres del Paine. It’s satisfying and adventursome to be climbing the rough boudler field to Torres Mirador at 5am. We always wake up before dawn at Campamento Las Torres (only 45 minutes from the lookout) and head up the path, half asleep. The hike wakes you up quickly. For many, this trek upto the lookout is the final day in the park (if doing the W). It is a great last morning, one to be enjoyed. When you head up there at the crack of dawn, be prepared to stay and enjoy this spectacular view. At 5:30am, there is no question that it will be cold. Take a small pack with you. Fill it with a hat, gloves and a sleeping mat to sit on. Sitting on a cold rock will suck the heat out of you and distract you from why you’re there. I like to bring my stove and morning coffee with me. I will often take my sleeping bag and really bunker down, drinking in the view, while staying warm. Making a hot drink, getting cozy, the towers looming ominously in front of me. There is not much more impressive than this. Then with any luck, that sunrise slides up with perfection, shooting red light onto the towers. It all depends on the time of year, the weather and the atmosphere, but there’s always a chance. Often

the towers will only catch a red glow on the tops, but this is still equally impressive. So bite the bullet at some point, set that alarm clock and wake up to catch the glow. Out of the many travelers who visit Patagonia every sea-

son, very few go home with the view--and more importantly, the feeling--of a sunrise at the bottom of the world.

Torres lookout at dawn

- Pilar Irribarra, directora Mes a mes nuestro periódico incluye en sus contenidos una variada temática que va desde consejos prácticos, información general, cultura regional, flora, fauna, etc. Pero sin duda, una de las temáticas favoritas y que forma parte del espíritu de “Black Sheep” es todo lo que se relaciona con el cuidado de nuestro medio ambiente y esto que puede parecer muy “cliche”, responde a la imperiosa necesidad de practicar un turismo cada vez más sustentable. El Turismo se ha transformado en una de las más importantes actividades económicas de Puerto Natales, y de acuerdo a las cifras de la SERNATUR crece a un orden del 10% año a año. En el último decenio, hemos sido testigos de importantes efectos que esta actividad ha tenido en Natales. Cambios que se reflejan en aspectos socio-culturales, económicos, infraestructura y en nuestro entorno natural. El turismo en Ultima Esperanza, ha generado un aumento en el uso y goce de los recursos naturales, razón por la que todos los que amamos la Patagonia, debemos poner énfasis en su cuidado y preservación, ya que este acelerado crecimiento, puede causar un efecto negativo y a largo plazo, esto

Suscripción! Valido para todo Chile

Black Sheep es un periódico gratuito, el valor de la suscripción es por gastos de envio por un periódo de 8 meses.

Valor 8 meses $10.000 Envía tus datos por correo o email e inmediatamente nos comunicaremos contigo.

Nombre y Apellidos Dirección Email

Teléfono

Black Sheep Baquedano 719 Puerto Natales, Chile sales@patagoniablacksheep.com celular 77090141

puede tener graves consecuencias para toda nuestra comunidad. En esta tarea cada uno tiene un rol que cumplir, niños, dueñas de casa, autoridades, empresarios y visitantes de nuestra región. Todos pueden cooperar con simples acciones que pasan por el deseo y la voluntad de que muchas generaciones puedan disfrutar de este paraíso. Los que tenemos una mayor responsabilidad somos los que habitamos este territorio. En este aspecto veo con optimismo la iniciativa de la Cámara de Turismo que en conjunto con el empresariado ha comenzado el reciclaje de vidrios, en este número de Black Sheep, puedes leer más sobre este interesante proyecto. También, nuestro municipio ha iniciado una campaña a través de diferentes medios por un “Natales más limpio”. Los vecinos, poco a poco, se han preocupado de mantener limpias las veredas y los hoteles comienzan a hablar de “producción limpia” y prácticas amigables con el medio ambiente. Sólo iniciativas como estas, que nos unen a todos en un mismo objetivo, son las que nos llevarán a ser líderes mundiales entre los destinos de“Ecoturísmo”. A principios de este mes, una delegación encabezada por nuestro alcalde Mario Margoni y el Presidente de la Cámara de Turismo, Alfonso López viajará a Lugano, Suiza, donde recibirán una Placa de Plata, correspondiente al premio oficial de los “Swiss Tourism Awards”. Puerto Natales fue elegida para tal distinción en la categoría “Paraísos Naturales”, como una puerta de ingreso a paisajes inolvidables, y sitio de gran inclinación hacia el turismo de aventura. Este premio fue otorgado a nuestra ciudad no sólo por los maravillosos paisajes naturales, sino que también por la calidez y la hospitalidad de sus habitantes. Premios como estos, nos hacen reflexionar la gran responsabilidad que tenemos al encontrarnos en la mira mundial y desde nuestras múltiples actividades, todos debemos esforzarnos por contribuir con la conservación de un entorno limpio y prístino.

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Rest & Re v italiz e in Patagonia Eb er hard 161 - Puer to Natales, Chile mandalaandino@yaho o.com 99302997 / 414143

More than a vacation: Volunteering and interning abroad is not a new trend. There are organizations

around Chile that are woking with internationals to help facilitate this type of working travel. To learn more about interning or working holidays in Chile, check out: www.chileinside.cl or www.contactchile.cl.

r u c k s ac k s & r a i n Waterproofing your pack Water is heavy. A quart of water weighs about two pounds. A rucksack full of rainwater would be impossible to lift. This is why folks buy backpack covers, but they’re expensive. They weigh up to half a pound and usually leave much of your pack exposed anyway. Plus down here in Patagonia, the wind is prone to grab the flimsy cover up like a kite and set it flying. What’s more, they won´t even protect your pack if it takes a dip in a creek or river. Tip: Try lining your pack with a heavy-duty trash bag. A regular garbage bag is fine too, but the thicker the better. The trash bag offers FULL protection for everything in your pack, without having to carry the extra weight of an pricey backpack cover. Just be careful not to rip a hole in the bag while packing. And remember to have the top storage pouch lined at all times. And when you’re ready to turn in for the night, just pull the plastic bag out of your wet backpack and move it--and your dry gear--into your tent with you. The outside of your pack might spend the night a little wet, but it’ll dry easily when the sun pops out. Next time the clouds open up and dump rain without notice, everyone will scramble to protect their packs. But not you. You’ll be calm as a Hindu cow, knowing all your cloths and gear are wrapped and waterproof safely in a plastic bag.

Pastel de choclo

Relaxation Therapies Outdoor Tubs Massages Natural Bar Outdoor Center Handmade Crafts

Hostel Excursions Ascents Ranch Tourism Kayaking Horse Riding

Nummer 1 der traditonellen chilenischen Gerichte von Sandra Pendelin Wer in Chile nach einem typischen Gericht frägt, hört ohne Zweifel - und egal auf welchem Längengrad zwischen Arica und Puerto Williams er sich gerade befindet – pastel de choclo. Aber was steckt eigentlich hinter dieser für uns so eigenartig neuen Mischung aus Hackfleisch mit viel Zwiebeln, Hühnchenfleisch, Oliven, Rosinen hartgekochtem Ei und einem mit Basilikum gewürzten Maisbrei, welche wie ein Auflauf in einem Tonschälchen serviert wird? Auf jeden Fall eine Komposition, die nahezu jedem Chilenen beim puren Gedanken daran das Wasser im Munde zusammenlaufen lässt. Darum darf dieses Gericht am chilenischen Unabhängigkeitstag, dem 18. September, zusammen mit ebenso traditionellen Speisen wie den empanadas (gefüllte Teigtaschen) auch auf keinem Mittagstisch fehlen. Aber blicken wir doch ein bisschen zurück in die gastronomischen Anfänge dieser zweifellos noch sehr jungen Nation. Wie in anderen Teilen Südamerikas entwickelte sich ab Mitte des 16. Jhd., was spaeter einmal comida chilena criolla, also traditionelle chilenische Kost, bezeichnet werden sollte. Und zwar durch eine fantasievolle Mischung aus den mitgebrachten Lebensmitteln und Tieren der spanischen Eroberer wie Weizen, Schweine, Geflügel, Kühe und Schafe, mit den natürlichen Nahrungsmitteln der Mapuche Indianer wie Kartoffeln,

Mais und Hülsenfrüchte. Dadurch entstanden nicht nur sehr nahrhafte, sondern auch geschmackvolle Gerichte. Neben dem bereits angeführten pastel de choclo möchte ich an dieser Stelle auch die cazuela (Geflügel-oder Rindfleischsuppe mit Kartoffeln, Mais, Reis, Kürbis, Karotten, Bohnen -und Paprikagemüse) als Beispiel für eine wahrhaft deliziöse Komposition von Lebensmitteln aus “der alten und der neuen Welt” erwähnen. Ein weiteres Beispiel (diesmal aber für eine Nachspeise) ist mote con huesillos, ein Trockenpfirsich, der in Zuckerwasser gekocht und mit geschälten Weizen serviert wird . Es bleibt demnach nur jedem Chilebesucher wärmstens zu empfehlen, diese Gerichte mindestens einmal zu probieren, am besten zusammen mit einem der ausgezeichneten chilenischen Weine wie dem Carmenere. Wer nach diesen Ausführungen auf den Geschmack gekommen ist und während der Patagonienreise neben Lammfleich, Fisch und Meerestieren endlich auch die traditionelle chilenische Küche kosten möchte, sei herzlich willkommen im Restaurant La Casa de Pepe, direkt am Stadtplatz von Puerto Natales, Tomas Rogers 131 (die gesamte Speisekarte und weitere Informationen unter www. lacasadepepe.de).

Welcome to the world of Adventure. Welcome to Patagonic People Adventure. Bulnes 280 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412014 www.patagonicpeopleadventure.com

Bulnes 622 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 410931 pedroblu@hotmail.com

(Administration)

13.45

(Laguna Amarga)

15.00

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Gomez Ph 415700

7.30

Puerto Natales Bus Schedules (Pudeto)

13.45

(Administration) Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park) JB 7.30 (Laguna Amarga) El Calafate 5 hrs TDP Laguna Amarga Ph 412824 Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto (Pudeto) Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin. (Administration)

13.00

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales

Buses Fernandez Ph 411111 E. Ramírez 399

7.15 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 7.30 10.00 13.30 18.00

Buses Fernandez Ph 242313 Arm. Sanhueza 745

7.00 8.30 15.00 19.00

Bus Sur Ph 244464 José Menéndez 552

Bus Pacheco Ph 414513 Baquedano 500

Torres del Paine buses

Bus Sur Ph 411859 Baquedano 668

Bus Pacheco Ph 242174 Colón 900

8.00 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 8.30 14.00 18.30 19.30

Trip 1

While trying to pack lightly, it helps to take your fuel into consideration. Bringing more fuel then you really need just means more weight to carry. On the other hand, not having enough fuel might mean a cold dinner. Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel... 1. Don´t over-boil your water; it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you’re ready to start a boil is only heating fresh air. 2. Put a lid on your pot. It holds in the heat making for a faster boil. 3. Use a wind screen. Wind carries the heat from under your pot and redirects it from your food. Using a wind shield aims the heat where you want it, up and under your pot. If you don´t have an aluminum wind screen, try making a shield using rocks from your campsite. 4. Many outdoor manufactures (such as MSR) now make heat exchangers that fit around your pot as insulation. Between this and a wind screen, you’ll be able to cook in almost any weather conditions.

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS TEMPORADA 2007-2008 Regular Schedule

9.00 15.00 17.00 19.00

Pudeto November 1 to March 15, 2008

Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine

F u e l Eff i c i e n c y

15.00 2 hrs 30 3 hrs 15 14.00 3 hrs 45 13.00

Pehoe

09:30am

10:30am

12:00pm

12:30pm

18:00pm

18:30pm

March 16 to 31, 2008

12:00pm

12:30pm

18:00pm

18:30pm

April 2008

12:00pm

12:30pm

Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Trip 2

Trip 1

Trip 2

Puerto Natales

7.00

14.30

Administration

13.00

18.00

Laguna Amarga

9.45

16.30

Pudeto

13.30

19.00

Pudeto

10.45

17.30

Laguna Amarga

14.30

19.45

Administration

11.45

18.00

Puerto Natales

17.00

22.00

One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed) Round trip ticket $17.000 per person Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales Ph 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net

Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga

Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

7.30

14.00

Administration

13.00

18.15

9.45

16.30

Pudeto

13.45

19.00

Pudeto

10.45

17.30

Laguna Amarga

15.00

19.45

Administration

11.45

18.00

Puerto Natales

17.00

22.00

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales

7.30

14.00

Administration

13.00

18.30

Laguna Amarga

9.45

16.30

Pudeto

13.30

19.00

Pudeto

10.45

17.30

Laguna Amarga

14.30

17.30

Administration

11.45

18.00

Puerto Natales

17.00

19.30

Torres del Paine Refugio Information Refugio Dickson & Refugio Grey - Closed. There are no garbage services at this moment.

Please haul your trash out with you. Do not leave it behind at the campgrounds.

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe... These prices are in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.

Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos

albergue@lastorres.com

+56-61 360360

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board

Dorm bed Camping Sleeping bag 2 person Tent Mattress

$8.00 $13.00 $14.00 $64.00

$34.00 $8.00 $8.00 $12.00 $3.00

Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain Lodge ventas@verticepatagonia.cl +56-61 412742 Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board

$9.00 $12.00 $15.00 $65.00

Dorm bed Camping Sleeping bag 2 person Tent Mattress

$35.00 $7.00 $9.00 $14.00 $3.00

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Torres del Paine, Chile - Q&A What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.

How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits.)

Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That’s a great question... but you could always help and pick some up.

How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the park is great in winter.

Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine?

How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 to 2.5 hours.

What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight.

What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8am. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3.500 to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. From April to May, in the off-season, closed campsites are free. So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas. At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am. What about midday? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, except for the supermarkets. Where can I buy camping food in town? The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively. How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind, too, that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person one way. 17.000 round trip. But it also shuts down during winter. Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.

What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, we know, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.

No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you, and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly. Crazy, we know.

4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY "AQUEDANO

0UERTO .ATALES Join the rucksack revolution...

Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there is a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town. Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during the spring and summer months. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection.

Information is key.

Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town. Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously. Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice or foxes might get into your stuff. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you. Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang.

The lk. a t lock ales. 3 o’c t o Na t r e Pu y.

a d y r Eve

erratic rock www.er r aticr ock.com Baquedano 719 Puerto Natales, Chile

November.07

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�� CUEVA DEL MILODÓN ��

Art Gallery & Jewlery phone 56 61 411461

Eberhard 318

Puerto Natales

Return of

��

UN ATRACTIVO NATURAL IMPERDIBLE

��

Rum &�� Reggae �� Party ��

��

November 24, 2007

��

��9pm �� onwards Be there or be square. MONUMENTO NATURAL CUEVA DEL MILODÓN

��

FREE

use of knives, forks & chairs

La Plaza, Puerto Natales, La Plaza

T H E IN D ES T RUC T I B LE NALG ENE If you’re not sure what a Nalgene bottle is, just find yourself a Yank; they will probably have one. These Lexan bottles are quickly becoming industry standard for trekkers and climbers. They are bullet-proof, won´t leak and are guaranteed for life. The little bottles are a must while trekking. The large mouth type makes for easier filling at water sources and allows for easy snow harvesting in alpine environments, even though they’re a little difficult to drink out of while walking. Here are some other cool uses for your Nalgene... 1. While making your nightly boil for dinner on the trail, boil an extra liter to keep in your Nalgene; it makes a great hot water bottle for your sleeping bag. This will raise the average temperature of your bag and do wonders for sore trekking feet. Throw your wet socks or gloves down there with the hot water bottle, and it will dry everything like an oven in your sleeping bag. 2. Want eggs on the trail? Before your first morning out, break a few eggs into a Nalgene for omelettes. This is a mess-free way of creating a breakfast upgrade. 3. Using a large mouth Nalgene to carry and protect dry and powdered goods is another great use. Whether it’s oatmeal or powdered soup mix for the long haul, a Nalgene can give you a hard, waterproof case.

Autores: Carla Hernández, Departamento de Áreas Protegidas y Medio Ambiente y Jovito González, Administrador Monumento Natural Cueva del Milodón

El Monumento Natural Cueva del Milodón, corresponde a una de las 4 áreas silvestres protegidas por el Estado que administra la Corporación Nacional Forestal (CONAF) en la Provincia de Última Esperanza. Se encuentra ubicado a 25 Km al Norte de la ciudad de Puerto Natales. Fue creada en el año 1968, como Monumento Histórico, por D.S N°138 del Ministerio de Educación. Posteriormente, en el año 1993, mediante D.S N° 359, se crea como ”Monumento Natural Cueva del Milodón”, incorporándose al Sistema Nacional de Áreas Silvestres Protegidas del Estado, con una superficie de 189,5 Hectáreas. importancia histórica En el año 1895, Otto Nordenskjöld fue el primer científico en descubrir un trozo de piel que pertenecía a un animal extinto, el Milodón (Milodon darwini). El Milodón fue un mamífero del orden de los Endentados, herbívoro de grandes dimensiones que se desplazaba en cuatro patas o en sus dos patas traseras apoyándose en su gruesa cola. Tenían poderosas garras, que le permitían ahondar en la tierra en busca de raíces, que constituían parte de su alimentación. Su extinción probablemente se debió a cambios climáticos, a la competencia por los alimentos con otros animales de la época o la acción de algunas enfermedades, aproximadamente a fines del Pleistoceno (8.000 a 10.000 años A.P.). IMPORTANCIA ARQUEOLÓGICA Esta área tiene un gran valor Arqueológico, ya que también sirvió de morada al primitivo hombre patagónico, cazadores terrestres pertenecientes a la cultura Paleoindia, que habitó entre los 12.000 y 9.000 años. Entre los sitios arqueológicos encontrados, cabe destacar: Cueva del Milodón, Cueva del Medio, Cueva Chica, los aleros Pedro Cárdenas, Ovejas Muertas y de la Cascada, abrigo Silla del Diablo, entre otros. IMPORTANCIA PALEONTOLÓGICA Además, se identificaron otros restos de fauna de animales extintos, entre los que destacan especies herbívoras, tales como caballo enano, camélidos, cérvidos, macroroedores y roedores menores; especies carnívoros, como la pantera, el tigre dientes de Sable, el oso de las cavernas y un gran zorro. FLORA ACTUAL La vegetación existente en el área está compuesta principalmente por manchones de bosques de Lenga, Coigüe, Ñirre; arbustos como Leña Dura, Chaura, Ciruelillo, Calafate, Michay, Siete camisas, Murtilla, Romerillo, Senecio, y entre las hierbas se pueden citar algunos como Siete venas, orquídeas, capachitos.

FAUNA ACTUAL Los atractivos faunísticos posibles de observar son variados, entre los mamíferos se destacan: Zorro culpeo, Zorro gris, Puma, Gato montes, Quique, Chingue, Murciélago orejudo. En cuanto a las aves se observan: Cóndor, Águila, Aguilucho, Carancho, Cernícalo,Vari, Tiuque, Tucúquere, Tordo, Carpintero, Cachaña, Zorzal, Loica, Pitio, Chincol, Rayadito, entre otras. Uso público En la Administración del Monumento Natural se dispone de los siguientes servicios: Agua potable, Servicios higiénicos, señal de celular, radio comunicación y al frente y fuera de la unidad, una cafetería o restaurante (particular). También se puede visitar el Centro de Información Ambiental y utilizar la zona de merienda, que cuenta con 15 sitios en el área de la Cueva Chica y Silla del Diablo. Se tiene acceso vehicular durante todo el año. Sendero interpretativo “Cueva Grande” Esta es una caverna de 200 metros, 30 metros de altura y 80 metros de ancho. Donde se encontró el primer trozo de piel del Milodón. Sendero de excursión (Guardería – Cueva del Medio – Cueva Chica – Silla del Diablo – Guardería) Sendero que conecta prácticamente todos los atractivos turísticos de este monumento natural. Tiene baja dificultad y permite apreciar la gran variedad de plantas, fauna y el relieve característico de su entorno. Se recorren: Silla Del Diablo: conjunto rocoso, de 35 metros de altura, y que se presenta como un mirador natural; Cueva del Medio: lugar donde se encontró el flechado más antiguo del poblamiento humano primitivo de la Patagonia, hace 12.000 años ap, siendo uno de los sitios arqueológicos más importante del cono sur americano. Cueva Chica: Posee dos estrechos laberintos que comienzan a ambos lados del fondo de la caverna, donde premunido de linterna, se podrá apreciar las más variadas formas producidas por el lento goteo, cargado de carbonato y que escurre a través de las rocas. Mirador interpretativo Cueva del Milodón Sendero que llega hasta un mirador privilegiado que está sobre la Cueva Grande, a unos 350 m.s.n.m. Este lugar es excelente para la observación de los rasgos del paisaje y la riqueza natural de la zona. RECOMENDACION: ESTA PROHIBIDO HACER FUEGO EN LAS ÁREAS DE PICNIC “Las áreas silvestres protegidas del estado forman parte de nuestro patrimonio natural. Conózcalas, disfrútelas y ayudemos a conservarlas”.

Black Sheep

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Finding the Patagonia 5 by oso de oregon

Most of us are familiar with Africa’s famous “big five”: the buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, lion and leopard. However, few are familiar with the Patagonian Five (probably because I just came up with it to get published). Though they are not as big or dangerous as their counterparts in Africa, the P5 prove to be just as unique and even harder to observe (except for the guanacos!). A lot of luck is needed to observe all five in the park. Hopefully, the descriptions that follow will help trekkers in Torres del Paine be aware of what to look for and where to look for them.

GUANACO: A South American cameloid relative of the llama and the alpaca. Sleek and strong, with brownish-white bodies and long necks. They are found in the steppe areas of Laguna Amarga, Laguna Azul, on the drive from the entrance to Lago Pehoe, and Laguna Verde. Guanacos feed on grasses, lichen, and shrubs. They breed once a year and give birth to their “chulengos” between November and February. In the winter months they congragate in herds of up to 400 animals grazing in the Lago Pehoe area of the park.

...yes!

you can drink the water in Patagonia

HUEMUL: The Huemul or Andean deer is a small, compact deer, that measures on average just 1.5 meters in length. They can be found on the road between the Administration and Hostería Grey, near Western Bountries, around Lago Grey, and along the Pingo tram. The Huemul is on the brink of extinction. Due to man’s forest fires and encroachment on its habitat now they are strictly protected. They are very shy and difficult to observe. In 1834 it was incorporated into the Chilean coat of arms.

PUMA: The largest of Patagonia’s predators, pumas are closely related to the North American mountain lion. Pumas thrive in a variety of habitats from Alaska to the bottom of Tierra del Fuego. It has the largest range of any of the big cats. It can be found both inside and outside of the park, from steppe to dense forest. The puma’s only enemy is man, they are protected by law, but are still hunted by ranchers. Trekkers will be lucky to see more than a track.

ÑANDU: Also known as the Rhea, the ñandu is a member of the ostrich family. They are found on the main entrance drive to the park, and along the road towards Laguna Verde. There is no visual difference between male and female ñandus. The Hareem of females lay all of their eggs in one nest and the male sits on the eggs and watches over the 30 to 40 “charitas” (chicks). They are noted for their speed and zig-zag escape patterns. The Ñandu is recognized as the Chilean symbol of the Magellan region.

CONDOR: The condor is the largest member of the Vultrine family. It nests on high cliff faces and soars over the entire park. The black “fingers” at the tips of the 2.5-meter wings, plus its bright white collar, are the trademarks of this symbol of Chile. They produce only one chick every other year. The Condor appears with the huemul on the Chilean national emblem.

A true Chilean estancia... inside the city limits.

by bill penhollow

We´re so programmed to the idea that tap water is bad for us. Better avoid drinking water from rivers and streams or you´ll fall victim to all sorts of waterborne illnesses, like dysentery, coli infection, or cholera. I like to call the myriad sicknesses “beaver fever.” But come on, people. Don’t let yourselves be fooled by the corporate rhetoric brought to us by water bottling companies, you know the ones that tell us that only their plastic bottles full of cool ancient artesian water are the only drops of water safe enough to pass your thirsty lips. Well, let me tell you that at least here in Patagonia, not only is the water safe to drink but also I’d say it tastes better than any water out of a plastic bottle! As some one who is trying to recycle (trying being the key word), I was appalled to learn that plastic water bottles account for 80% of all plastic trash collected in Patagonia! This is completely unnecessary. As citizens of Puerto Natales, we pay dearly for what little recycling service that exists. Torres del Paine National Park also feels burdened under the mountain of trash that is produced in the park on a daily basis. So, please do yourself and pacha mama (Mother Earth) a favor: Save your precious pesos, and leave the two-liter bottles of flashy imported 1st-world water in the store. Fill your cup with the glacier-fed goodness of Patagonia’s still-pristine cool clean water. And when you get back to Puerto Natales, ask for “agua de la llave,” or just help yourself to a glass of sweet H2O from the tap. Even better still, use your saved cash to treat yourself to a couple of local beers--brewed with the same natural freshwater--sans plastic!

-Seriously. Alma Gaucha Hostel Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 415243 almagauchacl@hotmail.com

Tu publicidad puede estar aquí!! Llámanos al cel. 77090141 o escríbenos a sales@patagoniablacksheep.com

November.07

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Discounts for Travelers d Enoks ’s B o d l r & ia W oa f é o n eeatales C tag f f a P co to. N P 26, 1 2 a r d

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The Black Sheep thanks all the businesses that make being a traveler a little easier.

Bla

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Southwind Hostel 5% off cash discount www.southwindhostel.cl

Eberhard 568, Puerto Natales, Chile

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erratic rock Scorpios pay half price for dorms! November only Baquedano 719 Pto. Natales

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JB Buses

Alberto D’Agostini: “The Explorer” At the end of the XIX century, Austral Patagonia was incorporated into the western world. Between 1881 and 1904, the border was defined between Chile and Argentina after several explorations in the area. The settlement started with big sheep ranches (estancias) and eventually came the first important cities, mainly Punta Arenas, head of the region and the arrival point of European immigrants and Chileans from Chiloé Island (Chilotes). Priests, too, were attracted to the region. The Salesian Order, who arrived to Punta Arenas in 1890, installed a wide network of schools, parish churches and native missions, which contributed to the cultural development of Patagonia. Among its members, stood out an Italian priest called Alberto D’Agostini, who widely contributed to the exploration of the Patagonian mountain ranges. D’Agostini was born on 1883 in a village of the Italian Alps, and on 1910 he arrived in Punta Arenas. He quickly became an insider in the workings of the Salesian Order, and he was well-known for his tireless activity as explorer, photographer and documentary maker. Indeed, his photos, books and documentaries introduced Patagonia to other parts of the world, especially Europe. For over 30 years he explored the massifs of Tierra del Fuego and Austral Patagonia, penetrating the most remote spots of the region. Between 1913 and 1924, he did different expeditions through the Darwin Mountain Range, located in southern Tierra del Fuego. He also tried to climb Mount Sarmiento, the highest of the Island but with no success. This was also about the time he started to recognize the Paine Massif. Between 1928 and 1932, D’Agostini explored the western side of the Southern Patagonian Icefield. During the following years, his attention was in Fitz Roy Massif, located in the northeastern part of the Southern Patagonian Icefield. His interest grew along with his intentions to climb Mount San Lorenzo, the second highest of Patagonia. In 1943, after several expeditions, D’Agostini climbed Mount San Lorenzo, an event that beccame a milestone in mountain climbing history. But he didn’t stop there. Then, after a long period of work in Italy, in 1955 D’Agostini returned to Patagonia, and when he was 72 years old climbed Mount Sarmiento in Tierra del Fuego. The legacy of D’Agostini is in his publications and in his photographic and documentary records of Patagonia. Among these records, photos of native people stand out as valuable evidence of the vanished ethnic groups and the first years of settlement. He was also a photographic pioneer, taking color and aerial photos of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, which proved very useful in the area’s map making. Moreover, his movies represent a legacy of incalculable value, because they are the first filmic records of the Magellan people and of the region in general.The most important films of D’Agostini are “Terra del Fuoco” (“Tierra del Fuego”) and “Terre Magellaniche” (“Magellan Lands”), and thanks to these films, Patagonia grew to be known all over the world. For more information, please visit: www.memoriachile.cl

10% discount TdP bus tickets purchased in our office! Arturo Prat 258, local A Pto. Natales

Translated by: Kris Robles Ch. Traductora Inglés-Japonés-Español traduccionespatagonicas@gmail.com

Black Sheep

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Etnias del Fin del Mundo Chonos, Kawéskar,Yámanas, Selk’nam y Aónikenk

El territorio austral de Chile puede dividirse en dos grandes áreas geográficas con características bastante diferencias. Por un lado está el húmedo mundo de los archipiélagos y canales que se extiende desde la isla de Chiloé hasta el Cabo de Hornos; una tierra inhóspita cubierta de espesas selvas y cuyas precipitaciones puede llegar a superar en algunos casos los 5000 mm anuales. Ese mundo, de una belleza singular y esencialmente acuático, estuvo habitado por pequeñas bandas de cazadores-recolectores que deambulaban en canoas por el laberinto de canales en busca del sustento, constituido básicamente por la caza de lobos marinos, aves, peces y mariscos.

wat e r While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp would obviously require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that´s different. If you are feeling thirsty, then you are already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also a signs of dehydration. Take the time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock, or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a quart in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to continually drink all day. The Torres del Paine is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So bottoms up!

The Milodon Laundry Service

Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same day service. Closed Sundays. Open 10am-12pm & 2:30pm-8:00pm Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642

568 Eberhard, Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 412766 reservas@southwindhostel.cl • www.southwindhostel.cl

Los pueblos de los canales australes estaban divididos en tres grandes grupos étnico-lingüísticos: los chonos que habitaban las islas situadas entre el archipiélago de Chiloé y la península de Taitao, los Kawéskar , entre el Golfo de Penas y el Estrecho de Magallanes y los Yámanas, habitantes de las islas al sur de la Tierra del Fuego. Con una organización social extremadamente sencilla, sobrevivieron por cientos -quizás miles- de años en un medio ambiente de extrema rudeza. Sin embargo, el contacto con el mundo occidental alteró radicalmente su estilo de vida llevándolos a su extinción como etnias. Los chonos desaparecieron en el siglo XVIII, mezclados con los chilotes y sus vecinos más australes, los Kawéskar. Estos últimos sobrevivieron hasta principios del siglo XX, entablando esporádicos contactos con misioneros jesuitas y navegantes ingleses y franceses. El establecimiento de rutas regulares entre Punta Arenas y el centro de Chile y la llegada de loberos chilotes a la zona, desestructuró completamente su estilo de vida. Los yámanas sufrieron una suerte parecida, y, el temprano establecimiento de una misión anglicana en la región, aceleró el proceso de aculturación.

En la región del Estrecho de Magallanes y Tierra del Fuego el paisaje cambia abruptamente para dar paso a extensas llanuras de coirón y gramíneas, hábitat de camélidos como el guanaco, pequeños roedores y ñandúes. En este mundo de inmensas planicies habitaban pueblos de gran estatura y contextura robusta, organizados en bandas de cazadores-recolectores sobre la base de grupos de parentesco sanguíneo. Entre el río Santa Cruz y el estrecho de Magallanes vivían los Aónikenk, cazadores de guanacos y ñandúes. La introducción del caballo a fines del siglo XVII transformó su estilo de vida, dotándolos de gran movilidad y de nuevas técnicas de caza. La fundación del Fuerte Bulnes en 1843 a las orillas del Estrecho de Magallanes, el contacto con exploradores y la expansión de la ganadería ovina en el último cuarto del siglo XIX, alteraron su modo de vida y terminaron por hacerlos desaparecer del territorio chileno. En las planicies de la Tierra del Fuego habitaban los Selknam, pueblo de cazadoresrecolectores pedestres que tuvo un trágico final al ser exterminado por los colonos que se instalaron en la isla a fines del siglo XIX, en el período de auge de las grandes estancias ovejeras. Todos los pueblos de la zona austral, a pesar de la simplicidad de su organización social, mostraban profundas creencias religiosas y ritos de alta complejidad. En ese sentido, distaban de ser los “salvajes” que pretendían ver los europeos; y fue esa mirada la que de alguna forma contribuyó a despoblar las frías tierras australes de sus primeros habitantes. www.memoriachilena.cl

Downtown Puerto Natales, located a half block from the main square.

HOTEL ALCAZAR

M.Balmaceda 722 • 412889 hotelalcazar@gmail.com

...with all private bathrooms Guided water tours of Glacier Balmeceda • Glacier Serrano • Bernardo O’Higgins National Park

A piece of Patagonian history...

Turismo “21 de Mayo” Puerto Natales Patagonia Chile Eberhard 560 • Phone 56-61 614420 • www.chileaustral.com/21demayo • 21demayo@chileaustral.com

November.07

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Torres del Paine, Chile From Different Points of View Torres del Paine National Park is part of the National System of The Protected Wild Areas of Chile. It was created on May 13, 1959, and on April 28, 1978, UNESCO declared it a Biosphere Reserve. One of the biggest parks in the country, Torres del Paine National Park is located 80 km to the north of Puerto Natales. The Park has a great variety of natural attractions, mainly the Paine Grande (Big Paine) Mountain, which has a summit of 3,050m and Los Torres del Paine (The Paine Towers), three big granite monoliths formed by glacier erosion. The South Tower is 2,850 meters high and is the highest. The impressive Cuernos (Horns) Mountains also stand out in the landscape. These mountainous formations of granite and sedimentary rock are surrounded by valleys, rivers and big lakes, such as Grey, Pehoé, Nordenskjöld and Sarmiento. And, of course, glaciers Grey, Pingo, Tyndall and Geikie, grace the landscape as well. In the 242,242 hectares of the park, you can step out into nature with a variety of outdoor activities, like trekking, horseback riding, kayaking, sport fishing, ice trekking, and channel sailing. On the popular “W Circuit” of four to five days and the “Big Circuit” of eight to ten days, you are welcomed with refugios and full-service camps. To visit Torres del Paine National Park and return to Puerto Natales, you have the following options...

1. Bus: They depart from Puerto Natales at 7.30 am every day. For information on times and prices, check out the bus schedules on page four. 2. Private Vehicle: You can rent a car in Puerto Natales and visit the park as well nearby places that you can´t reach using public transportation. 3. Regular Tours: Every day from Puerto Natales, you can take a “Full Day” tour in the Park, offered by a variety of agencies. This tour takes you through the most beautiful landscapes that make Patagonia what it is. Keep in mind, the “Full Day” does not include walking in any of the circuits. 4. By Ship: Every day the “21 de Mayo” boat departs from Puerto Natales Pier to the Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers. From the glaciers, you can continue by zodiac boat on the Serrano River. This takes you to the south entrance of the Park where you can spend the night or return to Puerto Natales. 5. By Sea Kayak: Another beautiful option is to leave Torres del Paine via the Serrano River. This adventure starts in the south limit of the park and then continues to Puerto Toro, where you can

catch the “21 de Mayo” to Puerto Natales. 6. Trekking the “Milodón Patrimonial Route”: Starting a few kilometers from Puerto Natales, this 45 km trek lasts about three days. You’ll traverse forests, streams, mountains and lakes. During the trip there are no refugios or basic services, only the well-marked trails and camping areas. This is without question the hardcore trekker’s favorite way to arrive to the Park.

7. Mountain Bike: If you want to bike to Torres del Paine, you might try using the “Camino Nuevo” (New Road) at the southern Rio Serrano entrance of the Park. Now get out there, and enjoy the beautiful landscape!

Translated by: Kris Robles Ch. Traductora Inglés-Japonés-Español traduccionespatagonicas@gmail.com

Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

r u c k s ac k r e p o r t

T h e p e r f e c t t r e k k i n g pa r t n e r Traveling is hard. Anyone who says different isn’t a traveller; they’re a tourist. Traveling is the art of dealing with different levels of discomfort. New countries, new lanuages, new rules, new customs, new routines. A traveller’s life and their trip are one in the same, living life while traveling rather than taking a vacation from life. Indeed, traveling becomes a part of who they are, not just something they do. And just like in life there are highs and lows, good times and bad, times where you under-appreciate the good and somehow make through the bad. There’s a cool, unspoken code between travellers: Trust. Trust that no one is going to rummage through your backpack in the hostel or that another backpacker will keep an eye on your book while you’re in the bathroom. It’s the way of it all. I would even go as far as saying that travelling brings out the best in people. Friendships formed while traveling can last a lifetime. We meet people on the road, talk, share meals, and travel with pure strangers. It’s certainly not uncommon to meet another person who also needs a trekking partner. We constantly use our insticts to get a feel off of the people we meet, whether it’s two groups meeting for a day or sharing some road time. Either way, we trust, and we go for it. Sometimes these encounters work out, but sometimes they don’t. The best thing you can hope for is meeting a new friend that will be with you forever, and the worst thing that can happen is you can get hooked up with someone who’s not trustworthy or who’s just plain annoying. So how do you choose the perfect trekking partner? How do you tell someone it’s not working out? How do you tell a complete stranger that they’re bugging the crap out of you? These are common problems among backpackers. The big choice... Deciding who you want to trek with is as important to a trip as the itinerary itself. You may have a very specific goal for your trip, or you may just want to spend time with the group. The trick is making sure that everyone is on the same

page. We’re all individuals with our individual quirks, and that’s great. But it’s better to find out if your idiosyncrasies mesh before the trip instead of during it. Develpoing a standard trail conduct for the team with a few guidelines can usually prevent most problems. Things like diet, sleeping arangments, nudity, wake up times, or even the route are good indicators of how the trip will be. Another important detail is the average pace of the group. One person’s goal may be to experience a relaxing spiritual awakening, and another’s goal may be to push themselves physically, reach their limits and surpass them. A pairing like this could definitely cause a problem. After the fact: So what happens when you’re already out on the trail when you realize your new trekking partner isn’t working out? Maybe someone just isn’t fitting in, or maybe it’s you that isn’t mixing well with the team you’ve joined. What then? Option 1. Take the high road. Try to deal with it. Is it really that bad? Can you handle it for the sake of the trip? Just suck it up a little? Option 2 - Talk with your team about what’s got your panties in a bunch, and see if the problem can be solved. Don’t under-estimate the power of peer pressure. There might just be others in the group that feel the same way. Most people will try to overlook problems and not say anything. If you mention what’s bugging you, you may even end up being the hero of the trip. Option 3 - Bail. Get out. Run. But how? How to seperate... If for some reason you know it’s time to call your partnership quits, you’ve really exhausted all other possibilities and you’re ready to go your own way (or send somebody else packin’), there are a couple of things you should think about. 1. Safety first, of course. Never leave a partner in a situation where they--or you--may be put in harm’s way. Nobody should ever be left without proper equipment, food supplies or knowledge. Even if you manage to split the food, fuel and tents, there is no way to split experience. The group dynamic, from the beginning, may have lead to the reason this certain trek or climb was chosen. If the group splits, then some of the less-experi-

enced trekkers may be left without proper leadership. The mountains are no place for assumptions when dealing with safety. 2. No secrets. Never try to depart secretly or run off witout saying a word. Even more importantly, no fake reasons, no lies. Be polite, and don’t let frustration or anger get the best of you, but do explain why you’re bugging out of the trip. If you have the balls enough to leave mid-trip, then have the balls enough to say why. This also has to do with saftey. People need to know where you’re go-

...if you have the balls enough to leave mid-trip, then have the balls enough to say why... ing, specifically, and why. There is no room for lies in the wilderness. Let’s try to contain that to the cities. 3. Equipment is often divided among the group. It might not be possible to just take off. Someone could be left holding the stove, while the other has the fuel, and a tent can’t be divided like a choclate bar. If you have any doubts or a history of wanting to go your own way, you’d better plan for this possibilty in advance. It’s a bit heavier, but you can still trek with a group while staying self-sufficient. Then, at any point, if the pace or your destination changes, you have the freedom to do what you need to do. The perfect trekking partner... No one wants to dump a partner--or be dumped. So what does make the perfect trekking partner? The list is long and probably undefinable, but here are a few tricks you can use to impress the rest of your team... 1. Have a sense of humor; it’s a trekker’s best friend. But also be aware: There is always a line between funny and annoying. 2. When it’s time for a water run at camp, grab everyone’s water bottle for a fill up. One big water run saves everyone effort, and it’s a great way to win points. 3. Hide extra treats in your pack to share with the team, or surprise them with a snort of whiskey

on day four. 4. Be aware of your personal hygiene. Enough said. 5. Don’t be the first to complain about foul weather conditions. Don’t be that guy! 6. Be reponsible for the distance between you and the person in front of you. It makes people nervous to have someone on their tail. 7. Don’t covet thy neighbors food or gear. Nothing is more annoying than a trekking partner that planned and packed poorly and assumes that the rest of the team will take care of them. Don’t be that guy either! Rather, be the one who brought a little extra toilet paper or dried fruit. 8. Be prepared to carry a little extra. Carrying the garbage bag or the wet tent shows leadership and sets a good example. Before long, everyone will be doing a little extra, creating an upward spiral. 9. Try to avoid gassing out your tent partner. 10. Try waking up before everyone else and not after. Greeting you teammates with a hot drink in the morning is what legends are made of.

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Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza les da la bienvenida y les desea un buen viaje Phillipi 600, mod.28. Pueblito Artesanal www.camaraturismoue.com camaraturismoue@yahoo.es - Fono 415721

Hotel Posada Tres Pasos Your country hotel...

Locals and travellers alike participated in the 2nd Annual Big Rock Festival beach clean up last April 2007, a virtual mountain of garbage was collected in under two hours. Different teams raced against the clock (and each other) for prizes, which were donated by local businesses. The 3rd Annual Big Rock is slated for April 11-13, 2008. For more information about Big Rock, contact Black Sheep at editor@ patagoniablacksheep.com.

¡Puerto Natales Recicla, Únete! Tel:(56) (2) 1969630

reservas@hotel3pasos.cl Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile

Call center Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs

Desde el pasado mes de septiembre se ha iniciado en Puerto Natales una campaña de Reciclaje de Vidrio por un Natales más Limpio. Esta campaña es una iniciativa de la Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza, en el marco de un proyecto institucional por mejorar y proteger nuestro entorno. La campaña de reciclaje se realiza con la colaboración de empresarios y de Enviu, ONG holandesa que actúa en la región, a través de voluntarios. En Natales se ha conformado una red con más de 25 alojamientos y restaurantes, los cuales se han comprometido en almacenar y entregar los envases de vidrio que posteriormente se envían a Santiago, en beneficio de la fundación COANIQUEM, corporación de ayuda a los niños quemados. Además queremos agradecerles a todos estos establecimientos su ayuda y colaboración con la campaña y alentar a los otros a unirse a ella. Otra idea interesante con respecto a la reutilización de los desechos, es la iniciativa de la Asociación de Guías de Turismo de Ultima Esperanza, quienes han puesto a disposición su sede como centro de acopio de botellas de vidrio y latas de aluminio, por lo que si los vecinos de Natales, desean hacer entrega de estos desechos, pueden llevarlos a la casa de la Asociación entre las 10.00 y las14.00 hrs. en Philipi 550. Si les interesa sumarse a esta campaña de limpieza pueden comunicarse con la Cámara de Turismo de Ultima Esperanza al mail: camaraturismoue@yahoo. es o en su sede ubicada en el Pueblito Artesanal.

Las empresas adheridos son los siguientes: Hotel Altiplanico Hotel Costa Australis Weskar Lodge Hostal Yagan Casa Cecilia Restaurant Maritimo Restaurant Centro Español Restaurant Los Viajeros Hostal Amerindia Pub Chile Restaurant Afrigonia Emporio De La Pampa Restaurant Cielo De Palo Hostal Lili Mandala Andino Ok Bar Erratic Rock Restaurant Ultima Esperanza Hostal Isla Morena Restaurant Mesita Grande Restaurant Pez Glaciar-Hotel Indigo Restaurant Casa Magna Aquaterra Lodge & Restaurant Restaurant Asador Patagonico Hostel Natales Chocolateria Patagonia Dulce Hotel Remota

ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts

Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413360

Cerro Castillo - Coffee shop & money exchange ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122

Grupo de voluntarios con el acalde de Puerto Natales, Sr. Mario Margoni Dia de Limpieza de la Costanera, Big Rock Festival, April 2007

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www.aquanativapatagonia.com

Kayaking.

Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia

Patagonia’s perfect sport. Puerto Natales local kayak directory in alphabetical order. AQUANATIVA www.aquanativapatagonia.com info@aquanativapatagonia.com Address: Eberhard 161 Phone: (56-61) 415749 BELLA PATAGONIA www.bellapatagonia.com info@bellapatagonia.com Address: Barros Arana 160 Phone: (56-61) 412489 FORTALEZA EXPEDICIONES www.fortalezapatagonia.cl explore@fortalezapatagonia.cl Address: Tomás Rogers 235 Phone: (56-61) 410595 INDOMITA www.indomitapatagonia.com info@indomitapatagonia.com Address: Bories 206 Phone: (56-61-414525)

RUTAS PATAGONIA www.rutaspatagonia.cl info@rutaspatagonia.cl Lote B Rio Serrano, Torres del Paine Phone: (56-61) 415885 SENDERO AVENTURA www.senderoaventura.com info@senderoaventura.com Address: Tomás Rogers 179 Phone: (56-61) 415636 TU TRAVESIA www.tutravesia.com info@tutravesia.com Address : Bulnes 37 Phone: (56-61) 415747 LA MADDERA www.lamadderaoutdoor.cl lamaddera@hotmail.com Address: Arturo Prat 297 Phone: (56-61) 413318v

24-Hour Emergency Gear Hotline in Natales Heading to the park and realize you need one more sleeping bag... and it’s 2am? Wondering how the heck you can get gas for your stove before the bus leaves? You’re in luck. LaMaddera Outdoors mountain shop offers a unique 24-hour emergency service, the only one of its kind in the region. LaMaddera sells mountain clothing, camping equipment, rain gear,batteries, gas, and just about anything you need before you head out on

your adventures. They also rent camping equipment, from sleeping bags to backpacks and tents, stoves and cook sets. From November 1 to April 30, their extended hours offer doors-open service from 8am to midnight (closed an hour for lunch). Located in the center of town, at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt, their after hours numbers are: (cell) 09 418 4100 and (house) 412 591.

Travel. Discover. Paddle. Live.

by Herman Klasen

Patagonia Kayaking

The next level.

If you’re reading this article, you’re probably planning your next days in Patagonia. And for sure visiting Torres del Paine National Park is your goal. But did you know that you can combine your trekking vacation with kayaking navigation? Yes, the park gives visitors the opportunity to experiment, in a relatively safe way, all the emotion and fun of a self-support kayak trip. The adventure starts in the Rio Serrano area, at the border of Torres del Paine National Park. From here, it’s a three or four day trip, navigating the waters of the magical Serrano River. You will cross two national parks on your way: Torres del Paine and Bernardo O’Higgins. And you’ll end your adventure at Puerto Toro, by the sea. From here, you will return to Puerto Natales crossing the Ultima Esperanza fiord in a motor boat, “21 de Mayo.” Serrano River is a unique opportunity to experience the real Patagonia, without the avalanche of visitors that you find on the trails of the park.The river runs between mountains and huge glaciers that form the Southern ice fields, known worldwide for their importance in the global warming scientific investigation. In Puerto Natales, you’ll find different companies that offer this trip. You can arrange with them where and when you want to be picked inside Torres del Paine park to start kayaking the Serrano River. The kayaking companies provide all the equipment needed for a safe navigation, as well as all food and drink for your journey. The standard of their work is very high, with special attention given to security. In Patagonia, weather conditions change rapidly and erratically, so they also make sure you’ll be prepared to adapt the trip according to Mother Nature’s wishes.

Eberhar d 161 Puer to Natales, Chile ph 414143

Lake District & Patagonia

56-61 224819 56-9 8827569 www.adel.cl

Hosteria Tunkelen Cerro Sombrero, Tierra del Fuego The only real rest stop between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia.

Arturo Prat 101, Cerro Sombrero, TdF, Chile - Phone 56+61 296696 or 56+61 212757 - hosteria_tunkelen@hotmail.com

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Free Paine Campsites Spotlight: Campamento Italiano

Bookings for Hosterias, Lodges, Shuttles, Navegation to Torres del Paine and more... pathagone@entelchile.net Eberhard 595 • ph 56 61 413291

vegetarian. juices. shakes. cakes

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Campamento Italiano got its name long ago from an Italian climbing expedition to climb the Cuernos. After being just a climbers campsite for years, from 1980 onwards Italiano is an official free Conaf campsite. In 2002 the first park rangers where stationed there, mostly to prevent tourists from starting forest fires. They were guarding the area, but without facilities, they lived in tents. In 2004 a guard hut was built in Italiano, all materials arrived carried by humans. The number of people spending the night at Italiano has been growing ever since. In high season there are counted up to 150 tents a night at the campsite. Using this campsite is a great way to visit Valle del Frances with less time constraints. Waking up in the morning in Italiano gives ample time to see the Valley and move on to your next camp before dark. This valley got its name from a Frenchman that used to have cattle in the area.The animals were more in the area around Pehoe and Italiano and were never really found up in the valley. The valley was named after a Frenchman named Bader. The valley between Valle del Frances and Valle Ascencio still bares his name,Valle Bader. Right now the only facilities in Italiano are restrooms. The campsite is situated in a Lenga tree forest that offers trekkers a lot of protection from wind & rain. Valle del Frances tends to attract bad weather.This together with the growing number of people staying there, a new project was put into motion and a hut was built to protect campers while cooking and relaxing, out of the weather.

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wine bar. sofas. book exchange

Where in the World...? Cool web site meets tracking technology

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EXpeNews, created by Chilean mountaineer and scientist Camilo Rada, is a web site that allows expeditions to easily communicate their location and progress to family and friends. Anyone with a satellite phone can send text messages to EXpeNews. Upon receiving a text message, the site automatically locates the expedition’s coordinates and shows where they are on a tracking map. ExpeNews currently has no external funding, so it is open to donations, which will make it possible to enhance the site and keep it online. www.expenews.org

Aquaterra Café The sweetest thing

Chilean Moonshine

Isla Navarino

In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you´re lucky enough, you´ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (A lot of meat... good luck if you are a vegetarian!) But you´ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. They are very keen on making drinks based on pisco and there are many pisco-mixed drinks out there. The first in line is a Pisco Sour. Try different Pisco Sours in different places because they can be made differently. There is also a great Calafate Sour based on the same mix. But you can also make them yourself in your hostel, or even once you get home.

Finding tourist information on Chile’s most Southern town, Puerto Williams, is not an easy job. Especially information on the Internet is scarce. This is a pity, since Puerto Williams and its surroundings have much to offer for nature loving tourists. Enviu, a Chilean/ Dutch N.G.O., has currently been working on improving the information supply. Through a project directed towards the local entrepreneurs in the tourism sector, Enviu has facilitated the creation of various websites. During a two-month period Enviu carried out practical workshops, in which the entrepreneurs learned how to make and maintain a website. The result of this project is that recently, in addition to the websites that yet existed, four new websites have been put online. For anyone interested, please check out the new websites and learn more about the various tourism products that Puerto Williams has to offer: www.turismoshila.com - guiding & tours www.refugioelpadrino.com - Accomodation www.hostalpusaki.com - Accomodation www.albatrospub.com - Food For more information on the work of Enviu, visit www.enviu.org.

by Marieke den Nijs

Pisco Sour 3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes. Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it is almost a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so go for it and enjoy!

Off the Beaten Path

Dumestre Road - Puerto Natales, Chile In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera! If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedalling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “el camino a Dumestre”).You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless they seem by the sea. The farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be.You’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Península.

ETNO Natural Park The new Patagonian Etnonatural Park recently opened to the public. Its main attraction is the sculptural representation of the indigenous Magellan people set against beautiful natural scenes. The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45 minutes and consists of nine displays in which you can see depictions of the first inhabitants of these lands: The Kaweskar,Yamanas, Aonikenk and Selknam. In additon, there is a small cave inside the park, which was once used as a refuge by hunters. On its walls you can see cave paintings of simple shapes but with great symbolic meaning and power. Many of these are geometrical outlines, animal tracks, human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animal figures. Along the path, you can feel the secrets of the spirits in the air, and among the ancient trees of the wooded areas images of the steppe hunters of Tierra del Fuego come to mind, nomadic people and the austral rivers. The Etnonatural Park is outside of Puerto Natales near the Milodon cave at Km 23. The park is open everyday during the week and costs $3.000 per person.

Blue Green Adventures www.bluegreenadventures.com

Torres del Paine

torres del paine tested in patagonia

Trekking programs Departing weekly 990 UDS

New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310

Cave Paintings near Puerto Natales

Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales www.aquaterrapatagonia.com

Bulnes 1200 Puerto Natales, Chile

phone 56-61 410009

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Carménère!

Tu publicidad puede estar aquí!!

by Carmen Gloria Barros

Carménère is on its way to become Chile’s emblematic and differentiating vine stock, just like the Malbec in Argentina, the Tannet in Uruguay and the Tempranillo in Spain. This vine stock has its origins in Burdeos, France and is used as part of the blend for the great Bordeles wines. In 1850 a ‘filoxera’ crisis, an insect that eats up the roots of the grapevine, was responsible for the disappearance of the Carménère stock in Europe. Because of good luck though, during the second half of the nineteenth century, a visionary Chilean wine farmer began to substitute the traditional Spanish wine stocks with varieties of French ones like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cot, Merlot, Pinot and Carménère, that was actually mistaken for Merlot and therefore planted together. Almost three centuries went by before its identification in Chile. In 1993 Mr. Jean Michel Boursiquot, specialist in describing and identifying different wine, together with the Chilean wine specialist Philippo Pszcolkowski, discovered that the Merlot in the wines of Carmen de Alto, was in reality Carménère… And that’s were the history starts being rewritten. It was concluded that apparently the grape had escaped the filoxera plague undamaged and arrived in Chile together with its vine stocks in the nineteenth century. Carménère has a rapid turnover and is an accessible and easy drinkable wine, liked by men as well as women and especially suitable for someone that’s a ‘red wine starter’. Thanks to its freshness and abundant taste, it is suggested with mild meat dishes with vegetables and fresh herbs. It combines especially well with lamb, poultry like chicken and duck, all types of cheese, tuna or whatever type of pasta and sauce.

Recomendados por: Emporio de la Pampa Cheese & Wines Baron Philippe de Rothschild Casa Silva Maipo Los Lingues Reserva Gran Reserva Carmenere 2004 Carmenere 2004 Casa Silva Lolol Reserva Carmenere 2004 Concha y Toro Terrunyo Carmenere 2003 Casa Silva Doña Dominga Reserva Carmenere 2004 VOE Adobe (Vino Orgánico) Reserva Carmenere 2004 Gentileza: Emporio de la Pampa Eberhard 302 Puerto Natales

New “Overland” Route: El Chalten to Villa O’Higgins We’ve received the good word from a trusted backpacking scout roaming the wild Patagonian lands. The intelligence indicates new information about an “overland” route from El Chalten, Argentina, to Villa O’Higgins, Chile, the enchanting southern tip of Carretera Austral. Here’s a splendid idea for an alternative trip and how you can do it: You can take a bus from El Chalten to El Lago Del Desierto (it costs 35 ARP), hike 12 hours to catch the ferry crossing, or break up the hike into two days. It’s also possible to take a boat across Laguna del Desierto, which reduces hiking time to about seven hours.

However, if you’re hiking inclined, you could skip the bus entirely, and basically hike the road to the lake. Ferries arrive on Saturdays and Wednesdays and cost 35 USD. Our scout also reports that Saturdays are the most reliable option. During the down season (May through October) Wednesday ferries don’t operate. Want to go even deeper? A bus operates every Tuesday from Villa O’Higgins to Cochrane. Enjoy. For more information, check out: www.villaohiggins.cl

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views from the window

Llámanos al cel 77090141

o escríbenos a sales@patagoniablacksheep.com

La Plaza, Puerto Natales, La Plaza

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An Experiment of Home by Heather Poyhonen

erratic rock

Bed & Breakfast

It was a typical Patagonian Sunday in March: all the shops closed, wind, stormy bursts, and sudden sun. But this isn’t another story about the weather. It’s more of a rendezvous between travel, love, and the road to find home. Anyway, there I was, my first stop on a two-month journey in South America, riddled with expectations that I’d figure out what I want to do when I grow up. (I was 28.) I walked to keep warm, through the plaza, past the museums, and eventually to Cofrima, the regional grocery chain with a cute lamb logo. That night I ate yogurt and cookies for dinner, drank cerveza Austral, and wrote seven postcards. In the morning, I would be on my way to Puerto Natales, and then to Torres del Paine NP to hike the classic “W circuit,” which would change my life.

...a hostel alternative for couples... benjamin zamora 732 puerto natales ph +56 61 414317 www.erraticrock.com

He was a porter with a big pack and a big laugh. We first started talking outside Refugio Los Cuernos. “Que bonita que eres” (how beautiful you are), he fawned in cliché Chilean-picking-up-chicks fashion. For shyness, he didn’t have much more to say, but I was rearing to practice my Spanish. Later that night we connected, one of those nights of talking that shrinks somehow the vastness of the world. We grew up in different hemispheres, yet our lives paralleled in so many ways. Both of our moms suffered cancer (his mom survived, mine didn’t), we fought with our dads, and we both bared the stamp of oldest sibling. The conversation ended with the naming of body

parts in English and Spanish: ears, nose, lips, eyelashes (orejas, nariz, labios, pastañas). We stargazed and kissed under the Southern Cross on Puente del Rio Bader. And so the nights intensified until it was time for me to travel back to Punta Arenas. I left him a poem in broken Spanish. We stayed in touch through email and planned to meet in Santiago after the tourist season finished. Within two weeks, I told my friends and family back home that I’d met someone and that I was (gulp) moving to Chile. Usually people want to know what my folks think about all this. Their questions pretty much sum it up: Are you pregnant?; Are you married already?; Heather, what are you doing?; Are you sure? But is anybody ever really sure about anything? When I set out on this adventure, I didn’t know what I expected to find, just that I was open to finding something. Today I’m living and working in Puerto Natales, and I’m learning to love in Spanish. But I finally understand, too, how deeply I loved in plain ole English. I’ve discovered my heart has legs, she’s peripatetic, and she keeps one foot always in California’s Bay Area. Now, every morning when I see the mountain ranges of Ultima Esperanza serrating the sky, I’m reminded that we’re all on our various journeys and that our paths constantly cross, helix, or parallel each other. I hope you, dear reader, find whatever it is you’re looking for on your journey.

T r a i l Et i q u e tt e On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience. While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time. Sticking to the trails is important. Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or puddle only widens the trail, or creates a second, or sometimes third trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Torres del Paine or on the Dientes Circuit (Patagonia.) Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.

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Learning Spanish While Traveling by Ellen Mesdag Not only is traveling by bus economical, but it also gives you the chance to really see where you’re going. This is how I’m traveling from Puerto Natales to Bariloche, Argentina, to take two weeks of Spanish classes at La Montaña. Since I´m traveling out of season, there’s no direct bus to Rio Gallegos (the easiest way to get to Bariloche), so I have to go south through Punta Arenas. I arrive at Rio Gallegos in the early evening and take a night bus to Comodoro Rivadavia. But in coche cama the trip’s not as trying as it sounds. It’s like being on a plane:You get a meal, a pillow and a blanket, and a whole lot more space. I have all day to spend in Comodoro Rivadavia. It’s not very exiting, but I take my book down to the waterfront and have a great day. Tonight I’m sleeping in an overnight bus again, and I wake up about 3 hours before we’re scheduled to arrive to Bariloche. The sunrise outside is so beautiful, illuminating the mountains and the lush green forests. I’m very happy to be here! In Bariloche I take a city bus downtown to find my hostel. While taking classes at La Montaña, you have the option to stay with a host family or in a hostel. Living with a family should be more intense and give me more practice speaking and listening to the Spanish language, but a hostel would be fun and provide a little more freedom around the busy school schedule. I decide to stay in a hostel for the first week and then see if I can pull off living with a family. The first thing I notice walking into class on Monday morning is that everybody is so happy to be in school. The teachers look like they’re just back from a long vacation, and they have a lot of energy. This is great! I join up with two other students and we introduce each other. Right away the teacher sees that my level of Spanish is not very common. I moved to Chile a couple years ago without speaking

a word of Spanish. Now I know quite a few words but my grammar is awful. They really want me to get as much as I can out of these two weeks and offer me private lessons until they can hook me up with another class more my level. I gladly accept, and I feel happy to be in a place where they care so much. It’s very motivating! During the 4-hour morning classes, we fly through the material. The school does offer privite lessons, but when I signed up I didn’t think I needed them. But now that I’ve ended up with private lessons, I realize how nice it is to have a teacher all to yourself. You don’t waste any time! In the afternoons we do various activities. We go bowling, salsa dancing, wine tasting, and we can help with volunteer projects that the school has.We play a card game called Truco, and during all of it, the students get to know each other. We talk freely and excitedly like cave people because we’re all in the same boat, not knowing anybody. The days go by fast and I realize that submerging myself in the Spanish language is the best way to learn. At times I have these little ‘clicks’ in my head when for a moment the language finally makes sense. Wauw! For my second week I move in with my Argentine family, a big family with grandparents, parents, kids and grandkids. Every evening meal is like a party where everybody talks and laughs like they haven’t seen each other in ages. It’s easy to feel at home here, and it feels pretty neat to join in conversations and understand what they’re saying! Every morning I drink maté with my Argentine mom. And when I walk to school, I wonder why I didn’t take this course two years ago. I think about where I´ve been and how difficult it was for me to feel comfortable with English when I lived in the States, even after years of English classes in The Netherlands. But now I’m walking into class with only three days left, and I´m planning to enjoy every moment of it.

Gaucho Meets Moto: Horse-Towing in Rio Serrano

I’d love a Jacuzzi facing the sea and the glaciers

and a nice cosy bed

and a cool place to read and a fresh locally brewed beer and some good simple food and a big breakfast with some real expresso coffee and to sleep in without hearing the vaccum cleaner first thing in the morning

HOTEL SPA

by Victoria Mattison My husband,GonzaloAstorga,has ridden horses in Rio Serrano all of his life. But he’s never run into anybody trying to tackle the area’s tiny footpaths on motorbike. That is, until this March. We were on our way home from a horse ride along the countryside when we heard a chainsaw-like noise. About 10 minutes later, we met up with the noise and five guys revving their bikes after fording the fast and deep Rio Nutria. We halted the horses and watched them wave to us as they zipped by on their way to Lago Brush, about 20 km from Rio Serrano. The next day, two of the bikers showed up to our farm. Evidently, one of the bikes had broken down the night before, stranding them to shiver all night on the bank of Lago Jote. They were only 10 km from Rio Serrano, but the clunky moto proved too heavy to push. This is the land of gauchos and estancias, lassos and boggy pampas. It’s Gonzalo’s home, and he knew exactly how he would rescue the motorist. He saddled up our piebald, Pinto, and they galloped off into the dewy morning.

Gonzalo lassoed the handlebars and tied the other end of the rope to the hoop of his saddle, which is normally used for catching cattle. And, yes, he proceeded to tow the bike by horse. Now, horses in these parts are used to hauling heavy loads, carts of wood and the like, but this was definitely Pinto’s first time lugging a motorcycle. Billy, the biker, toiled to balance the clunker through mud and coirón bunchgrass, over boulders and tree trunks. He fell quite a few times, but after six hours of slogging through the pampas, they arrived to Rio Serrano, covered in mud and quite a few bruises. They loaded the bike onto the back of a pick-up, we turned Pinto out for the night, and all fell quiet again in Rio Serrano.

...and, yes, he

proceeded to tow the bike by horse...

If you’re interested in horse-riding activities in the beautiful region of Rio Serrano, close to Torres del Paine National Park, check out: www.campingchile.com

Ladrilleros105 I Puerto Natales (061) 413 609 I www.indigopatagonia.com

November.07 w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

Punta Arenas Museums

Patagonian Spirit

Restaurant Bar Café Happy Hour Sunday thru Tuesday 7pm-12am Wed thru Sat 7pm-10pm

O’Higgins 1021 Punta Arenas, Chile Tel 245851 jekus.patagonia@gmail.com

Museo Salesiano Av. Bulnes 374 South Patagonian culture, history and nature. $2.000 Tue - Sun am: 10:00 - 12:30 Tue - Sun pm:15.00-18.00 Museo Regional Magallanes 949, next to the plaza ph (61) 244216 The former mansion of Mauricio Braun, containing regional history. Tue – Sat: $1.000, Sun: free Tue - Sat:10:30 – 17:00 Sun: 10:30 - 14:00 Museo Naval y Marítimo Pedro Montt + O´Higgins ph (61) 205479 Shipwrecks, cartography, meteorology, local and national maritime history. Tue - Sat am: 9:30 - 12:30 Tue - Sat pm:14:00 - 17:00

They’re Back... Regular Torres del Paine Full day tours of Torres del Paine Cueva del Milodón Privados

Arturo Prat 258 local A Puerto Natales, Chile 061-412824 busesjb@hotmail.com

D ow n Tow n H o s t e l

Armando Sanhueza 555 (56-61) 222219 - 221009 Cell Ph: 09 91229555 - 09 84394174 Punta Arenas, Chile info@downtownhostel.com www.downtownhostel.cl

N e a r S h o p p i n g & S e r v i ce s

Every year in mid September the first black and white heads timidly pop out of the cold water from the Staight of Magellan. Spring has begun and soon the first brave Magellanic penguin steps onto one of Patagonia’s lone pebble beaches, just like their anscesters have done for thousands of years. Only males arrive at the beginning, but it doesn’t take long for the females to join the males and start finding their soul mates for the sole but definite purpose of reproduction. They then stay all summer until their chicks are big enough to join their parents at the end of March on their long journey north. There are five colonies that you can visit around Punta Arenas: Seno Otway, Isla Magdalena, Cabo Virgenes, Tucker Islet and Ruppert Islet. All of contain the same species: Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus). So what are your options? Pretty much all tour operators and travel agencies in Punta Arenas offer daily departures to Seno Otway in the afternoon, from 4:00 to 5:00pm, picking folks up at their accommodations. It’s an hour drive through the Patagonian pampas to reach private property, where about 11,000 penguins nest. The landlord officially opened his terrain for visitors on October 15, 2007, and will close it up at the end of March, when the penguins start to head north.This year, the entrance fee at Seno Otway is 4.500CLP. Starting this year, there’s also a fee of 1.000CLP to use the private road, which is the only way to access the colony. The ferry boat that connects Punta Arenas and Porvenir takes you to Isla Magdalena on Tuesdays,Thursdays and Saturdays, but it doesn’t start operating until the end of November or beginning of December. There’s about 120,000 penguins on Isla Magdalena. This excursion begins at “Tres Pu-

entes” port, which you can reach from down town Punta Arenas by hopping on one of the colectivos, either nº 15 or 20. The price for this tour will be 20.000CLP, incl. entrance fee. Every day at 7:00am and 5:00pm (weather permitting), you can catch a fast Zodiac boat across the Straight of Magellan to Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta. The latter island is home to about 1,000 sea lions, who consider Isla Magdalena their special penguin restaurant. This is an adventurous yet safe alternative to the ferry. Price: 32.000CLP, incl. the shuttle transfer from/to Punta Arenas and to/from the dock and the entrance fee. The Eastern entrance of the Straight of Magellan is called Cabo Virgenes. Nearby, on Argentine soil, is a penguin colony that is said to be the second largest in South America (after Punta Tombo), with about 200,000 birds. It is best reached by joining a tour from Rio Gallegos or by renting a car and driving the dirt road southeast of Rio Gallegos yourself. It’s a pretty big distance, but the chances that you and the penguins will be the only ones there are pretty good! Price from Rio Gallegos: 120ARP + 15ARP entrance fee. A visit to Tucker Islet is only possible byjoining one of the weekly expedition cruises from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia onboard the Mare Australis or Via Australis. Prices for the 5 day/4 night cruise start at USD 1,150 pp. Ruppert Islet is part of Chile’s first Maritime Park named after Chile’s Nobel Prize winner Francisco Coloane. To get there, you can join a Humpback Whale Watching tour that runs from December to April from/to Punta Arena. The penguin colony has an estimated 20,000 members. This season’s prices for the 3 day/2 night all-inclusive tour is USD 900 pp.

Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

Punta Arenas, Chile Q&A

Mario Toledo

Julia Garay

Caupolican

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How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas? Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine. For more info ask at Buses Barria.

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Can I drink the tap water? Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.

How far is Torres del Paine from here? 4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Rio Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.

Downtown Punta Arenas, Chile

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Where can I change money? There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.

Does Punta Arenas have a camping? Not at walking distance from the centre.

What are my penguin options? 1) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway. 2) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tue, Thu, and Sat. 3) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena – every day.

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How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, it’s difficult to read. Have fun! How much do taxis cost? All taxis have a taximeter, in and around the centre you should pay between 1500 and 2500 pesos.

How many people live here? About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.

How far is the airport out of town? About 20km or 30 minutes.

Angamos

What about store opening hours? Except for the supermarkets and farmacies, everything opens around 9:30am and is closed around lunch time between 13:00 and 15:00pm. Also on Sundays most shops are closed, except for the supermarkets.

What’s with all the street dogs? Do they bite? Yes, gringos only.

Av. Bulnes

Is there any public transportation? Yes! “Micro” is the name for our public buses. A great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one take it as far as it goes – which is until you are the last one on the bus an the driver nevously starts to look at you all the time and then just ask him to take you back to the “centro.” “Colectivos” are car-type public transportation. Like a bus, they have a defined route, but they “collect” people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options a pretty inexpensive.

What are the highlights of PA center? To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and with an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego Island and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America, reflecting the many explorers and pioneers who created the cosmopolitan Punta Arenas society. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.

Bories

Are there tours to the park from Punta Arenas? Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organise trips to the park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short of time…

How much is an airport transfer? A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000 CLP. From the airport to town you’d usually pay about 8.000 CLP. The difference is due to the concession that the taxi companies have to wait for you at the airport. The ones that don’t have this concession may only take you to the airport, but may not wait there. There are also minibus shuttles.

Jose Nogueira

Where is the bus station? Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the centre. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8pm. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.

When does ski season start? Depending on snow conditions of course about June – August. You can see the Strait of Magellan from the slopes.

Chiloe

Why are there ropes on the main square corners? Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring time and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street.

Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America´s continent.

What type of day tours are there? Options include: Penguin Colonies. Historic Fuerte Bulnes (some operatores include side trips to Laguna Parriar National Forest) Also recommended.

Is there a boat to Ushuaia? Yes, a fancy ship called the “Expedition Cruise.”

Armando Sanhueza

What does Punta Arenas mean? Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 C degrees.

Is P.A. safe at night? Yup, no worries.

How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuia? 250km to Puerto Natales. 40km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5hrs by ferry. 600km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.

Señoret

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas? Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.

Port

Punta Arenas, Chile

You are here. Participate. Leave No Trace in Patagonia 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

Puerto Natales, Chile

Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories

Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea

Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit.

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Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping.This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu.

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Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises.

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7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

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Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times i.e. mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.

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Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance.

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6. Respect Wildlife

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Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.

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5. Minimize Campfire Impacts

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Preserve the past, observe but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting nonnative species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.

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4. Leave What you Find

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To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

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Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.

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3. Dispose of Waste Properly

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In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

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Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes & streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary. In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent.

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2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

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Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint.

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