ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE
November 2008
Volume 4 • Issue 3 • November 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Serdar Yaggi
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e are a grass roots travel newspaper, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language paper. We publish eight issues per year, coinciding with Patagonia’s high season, from September to April. Our web site community, with up-to-the-minute info, gives travelers a space to share their experiences. We are expats and locals. We are travelers, and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help them plan their adventures to the bottom of the world. We are backpackers, and we believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We believe in unguided adventure. We sleep in tents, and we camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We hitchhike. We recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being a part of the solution, not the problem. We believe that reggae music can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open & free for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe YOU can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that what you pack in, you pack out. We believe travel is about experience, culture, living like the locals, respecting Pachamama, and going home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe that backpackers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. Black Sheep is a bridge between advertiser and traveler. We search out the hip and reputable tour operators, lodging, restaurants, handicrafts, outdoor stores and mom & pop shops. Businesses that we think are especially groovy merit our stamp of approval, which means they... • Love the environment and practice eco-friendliness in their business • Are locally owned • Give back to the community • Offer something free to customers and quality service The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers.We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.We are:
Bariloche, Argentina:
Publisher/Designer:
Jamie Schectman adiostahoe@gmail.com Shanie Matthews shanie@shaniematthews.com
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Pilar Irribarra sales@patagoniablacksheep.com
Calafate, Argentina:
Editor/Layout:
Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
Maria Fourcade negrafourcade@hotmail.com Federico Fourcade pod_smolik@hotmail.com
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Distribution: Patricio Alderete
Leslie Venti leslie.venti@gmail.com
Special Thanks: Bill Penhollow Isabel Chamorro Patricio Achurra erratic rock Sarah Anderson Peter Webb
Punta Arenas, Chile:
Marnix Doorn sales@patagoniablacksheep.com
Puerto Natales, Chile: Carolina “C.J.” Wilson cjwilson07@gmail.com
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Serdar Yaggi El Chaltén, Argentina
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- Rustyn Mesdag, publisher
It was toilet paper. Maybe I’ve spent so much time outdoors that some things are just common sense to me. But, man, I am constantly re-surprised by people. I don’t even know who these people are, I don’t know where they come from and I’ve never actually seen them. They’re a lot like the pumas in Torres del Paine: elusive. We know they exist because we find their tracks. But I’m not talking about cool puma tracks, I’m referring to the traces left behind by the toilet paper people. Who thinks it’s okay to poop and pee directly on the trail? To leave a few soiled, crumpled TP balls, right there, unburied for the rest of us to enjoy? Really? Who does that? Who in their right mind, on vacation in nature, thinks it is acceptable to litter--not only garbage, but--used toilet paper? As a modern-day outdoor enthusiast I, like many others, collect other people’s litter from the trail and campsites, putting it in one of the unused outside pockets of my pack. ‘Leave the trail better than how you found it.’ But even the most enthusiastic trekker takes pause when presented with the idea of picking up somone else’s dirty toilet paper. Early this month I did the W trek in Torres del Paine with my 9-year-old son, Noah. The little dude trekked the W like a man. Adult pace, with a ‘roll up your sleeves and get involved’ attitude. We hung out at camp, sat in our down jackets outside our tent, drank hot drinks out of our camp mugs and talked about camp things. Some less important stuff, like ‘would you rather be a puma or a lion?’ And some things a bit more important, like ‘if we got lost and had to sleep a night outside, what would we do?’ Then he asked if he should pick up soiled toilet paper on the trail. When I said, ‘no, don’t pick it up,’ he gave me a confused (but relieved) look. As we trekked for five days, we encountered countless toilet paper gardens on the trail. From afar, they almost seemed like little white flowers. Except they weren’t. What amazed me more than the fact that people must think littering their spent TP is a normal practice, was the fact that there was no measuable amount of other trash on the trail-only toilet paper! So, what’s happening here? People know better than to leave garbage behind on the trail, but are for some reason grossed out by toilet paper and don’t know what to do with it. Maybe the whole leave-no-trace (especially not your used toilet paper) practice is not as common sense as we thought it was. Maybe we need to go over this for everyone.
How do we poop and pee and dispose of toilet paper on the trail? For many unexperienced trekkers, pooping in the woods seems nerve-wracking, but there is no cleaner place to poop than in nature and you can’t beat the views. Human waste, however, is a major cause of pathogens including giardia, campylobacter, hepatitis and other diseases. For this reason we want to dispose of our waste in a way that keeps it from spreading throughout the ecosystem and in a way that speeds up its decomposition. Burying poop waste and TP is the second best solution (second only to packing it out to a proper waste-treatment facility). Skipping behind the nearest bush, dropping your pants, and letting it fly is not acceptable! Not only is this offensive to others, but it also negatively effects the environment. By taking a five-minute walk deeper into the woods, we gain privacy and it helps the distribution of poop along the trailside. Look for a spot at least 75 meters away from water sources, meaning all creeks, rivers, lakes and any possible dry river beds that might fill with water later during the season. Search for a good burial spot, some place where you can dig a hole, pull out a plug of grass or sweep away deep loose rock. Carrying a mini-shovel with you on all your hikes is an excellent idea, but you can also dig holes with sticks or stones. The pooping position may vary according to your creativity and style. Leaning back against a rock or tree, while squatting, is my favorite. Sometimes you can dig a hole strategically under a fork in a branch of a fallen tree to produce a ‘seat’ effect. If there is nothing around to hang on to, you may just have to go with the classic squat. Remember, you may be doing all this in the rain, so the less you have to pull down your Gore-Tex and long-johns, the dryer you’ll stay. When we’re done, we want to make sure that we can ‘cap’ the hole. If someone else finds this spot for their bathroom break, we don’t want them to realize that the spot was used before. This means leave no trace of toilet paper! Don’t lose control of your toilet paper in the wind. To avoid the need for TP all together, collect wiping material along the trail, (moss, broad leaves, smooth stones) throughout the day. When nature calls, you’ll have all-natural wipes ready and waiting. Happy pooping!
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Patagonia Bus Schedules
Chile / Argentina Buses Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos
Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas
Buses Ghisoni Ph. 613420 L. Navarro 975
Mon. & Wed. thru Sat. 11.00
Buses Ghisoni Terminal Río Gallegos
Tues. & Thu. thru Sun. 12.00
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Tue., Fri., Sun. 11.30
Buses Pacheco Terminal Río Gallegos
Mon., Wed., Sat. 12.00
Punta Arenas - Ushuaia
Ushuaia - Punta Arenas
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Tues., Thurs., Sun. 09.00
Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Mon., Wed., Fri. 08.00
Tecni Austral Ph. 613422 L. Navarro 975
Tue., Thu., Sat. 07.30
Tecni Austral Roca 157
Mon., Wed., Fri. 05.30
Puerto Natales - Ushuaia
Ushuaia - Puerto Natales
Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500
Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Tues., Thurs., Sun. 07.30 (with a bus change near PA)
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
Mon., Wed., Fri. 08.00 (with a bus change near PA)
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez Ph. 411111 E. Ramírez 399
07.15 09.00 13.00 14.30
17.00 18.30 20.00
Buses Fernandez Ph. 221812 A. Sanhueza 745
08.00 09.00 13.00 14.30
17.00 18.30 20.00
Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500
07.30 08.30 10.00
16.30 18.00 19.30
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
08.30 10.00 14.00
16.30 18.00 19.30
Bus Sur Ph. 411859 Baquedano 668
M-Th.: 07.00 & 15.00 Fri.-Sun.: 07.15 & 19.00
Bus Sur Ph. 614224 José Menéndez 552
Tues-Thur.: 15.00 & 19.00 Fri.-Mon.: 09.15 & 19.00
Puerto Natales - El Calafate
El Calafate - Puerto Natales
Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456
Cootra Terminal de Ómnibus
Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236
Daily 07.30 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00
Zaajh Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.30 M, F & Sun.: 08.00
El Calafate - El Chaltén
El Chaltén - El Calafate
Chaltén Travel Ph. 491833 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.00, 13.30, 18.30
Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande
Daily 07.30, 18.00
CalTur Ph. 491842 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.00
CalTur Avenida San Martín 520
Daily 15.00
Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus
M, W, F: 17.30
Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande
T, Th, Sat.: 07.30
El Calafate - Río Gallegos
Río Gallegos - El Calafate
Sportsman Ph. 492680 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 12.30
Sportsman Ph. 442595 Rancho Grande
Daily 20.00
Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 12.00, 14.30
Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande
Daily 12.00, 14.00
Interlagos Ph. 491273 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 04.00
Interlagos Ph. 442080 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 13.30
Travel Times
Schedules may alter slightly for the winter season. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions. Note: During daylight savings time, there is a time difference between Chile and Argentina.
Torres del Paine Buses
Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park) El Calafate
5 hrs
TdP Laguna Amarga
2 hrs 30
Punta Arenas
3 hrs
TdP Pudeto
3 hrs 15
Ushuaia
15 hrs
Torres del Paine Admin.
3 hrs 45
Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas (allow time for border crossings) Puerto Natales
3 hrs
Río Gallegos
6 hrs
Río Grande
8 hrs
Ushuaia
13 hrs
Puerto Natales – Torres
del
Paine
Torres
del
Paine – Puerto Natales
Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45
14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00
Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45
14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45
14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00
Note: Please check with bus companies directly for updated information.
P l annin g me al s fo r t he trail Eating properly while on the trail will not only keep your energy up, but also keep the team happy and postive. Planning the amounts and types of food is one of the biggest challenges of any backcountry trip. If you’re traveling in a group, find out if anybody has any food restrictions (vegetarians, food allergies?). Discuss the menu before you head to the store. Make a day-by-day list of meals and snacks, complete with ingredients, for the exact amount of people in your group. Break down how many scoops of oatmeal you’ll need, the number of dry soup packets and and chocolate bars. Try not to plan for too much food. If you come home with enough grub to last you another day or two, it means you carried an extra 1-2 kilos in your pack. It’s best to shoot for 3,000 calories per day. Light eaters can get away with less (maybe 2,500) where a big eater might want to bump it up to around 3,500. Dehydrated meals are all the rage, but they often taste like cardboard. Sure, they might save some weight in your pack, but they take away some of the fun of preparing meals at camp. If you can cook it at home, there is a way to cook it on the trail. Prepping spices and cut veggies at home also makes packing and consumption easier. After the big meal shop, remove all packaging and excess garbage that you won’t need on the trail. This step will make more space in your pack and leave you with less to carry out later. Repack all your food into doubled and labeled, resealable plastic bags. Consider it a fun challenge to eat well and pack light. When packing your tools for cooking, try to not bring any piece of gear that only serves one purpose. Don’t bring a cutting board, for example. Something like the lid to your cooking pot can double as a cutting surface.
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Ushuaia, Argentina
What’s the big deal about the Falkland Islands/Islas Malvinas? This is a very sore topic with Argentines, as they still consider the islands their own. They have claimed them since 1833, although the islands were settled by mariners, gauchos, and English and Scottish sheep farmers. No one paid much attention to the windswept territories until the war between England and Argentina in the 1980s, which Argentina lost. Whatever you do, refer to the islands as the Malvinas, or don’t bring ‘em up at all! If I bus into Ushuaia, where do I get dropped off? Ushuaia doesn’t have a central bus station. Out-oftown buses drop off at the parking lot next to YPF petrol station on Maipu, the road which parallels
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What else is there to do around town? Visit the first estancia on the island, Harberton, take a 4x4 ride to Lago Fagnano, ride the Train at the End of the World, rent a bike, mosey through the museums. Take the City Tour, fly over the Beagle Channel in a private plane, go horseback riding, ride the chair lift above town to Glaciar Martial, or take a boat ride through the islands of the Beagle Channel. Why are there two different prices for stamps? Because there are two postal companies, one run by the government, and the other a private company which uses DHL. They charge slightly more.You can put your post cards in any of the boxes around town, no matter which stamps you buy. Why are there little plaques outside hostels and hotels? The plaque means they are registered with the municipal tourist office. If any problems arise, they can be reported. They are also monitored for hygiene and safety standards. If you stay within this network, prices are standardized and a certain level of professionalism is ensured.
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In town, metered taxis are the way to go. In high season, there are mini buses running regularly to the national park (30 min. west of town) and also east up the valley along Route 3, giving you easy access to trailheads.Your hostel can arrange your transport to the park, or a service that can get you to trailheads on Route 3. Is there a place to get my passport stamped with the ‘End of the World’? Yep! The trick is finding out where to get the stamp.
Gdor. Valdez
Magallanes
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Jose Maria Gomez
Hipolito Bouchard
Is there any good hiking near by? A ton. Ask at the tourist office for information on free hikes, right outside of town. “Senderos Antiguos,” are three walks of varying difficulty, which you can start right from the center of town. The national park office on San Martín can go over maps with you and help with suggestions for hikes in the park. There are some great hikes in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, and trekking from a day to several days in the valleys off of Route 3. In the winter these valleys offer cross country skiing and dog sledding.
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How do I get around to the hikes and excursions I want to do?
There’s one Casa de Cambio, Thaler, on the main drag near the tourist office.You can also change cash at the banks, between 10:00-15:00 week days.
Las
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Three of ‘em, ! rated as possibly the best in Latin America. There’s one at the airport, one at the “Muelle Turistico,” or Tourist Wharf, and one on the main street, at San Martín 674. All offices open around at 8 or 9 a.m. and close between 6 and 10 p.m., depending on the time of year.Visit their web site: www.e-ushuaia.com.
Where can I change money in Ushuaia?
Hi
Is there a tourist office?
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Onas
1.) By bus from all over Argentina or from Punta Arenas, Chile. 2.) By plane from many Argentine cities. 3.) By boat from Isla Navarino. (Check with Ushuaia Boating at Paz & Godoy)
Ushuaia, Argentina
Sarmiento
How can I get there?
the coast. From here, you can hail a taxi to your hostel. If you don’t already have something booked, walk one block heading against traffic, and you’ll come to one of the tourist offices. They might even call your choice of hostel and see if there’s room for you.
Walk along the Beagle Channel in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, visit historic Estancia Harberton, or check out the skiing and dog sledding in winter. In the summer, water ski on enormous Lago Fagnano or the many rivers throughout the island, or choose one of the day hikes in the area. If you’re not looking for historic tours and whatnot, Ushuaia is still a cool place to sit and drink good beer in good pubs with good people.
Piedrabueana
questions & answers
This hip city overlooks the Beagle Channel at the southern end of the island of Tierra del Fuego. Ushuaia wins the title “Southernmost City in the World.” Because of this fame, anybody who’s anybody tries to find their way to Ushuaia, though technically Puerto Williams in Chile is further south on the map. But Puerto Williams doesn’t have near the tourist services that Ushuaia does. The name Ushuaia in the Yaman Indian language means “bay penetrating westward.” By South American standards, it’s a pretty expensive place to visit, especially if you’re on a budget. Most people make their way down here just to say they’ve been to the southernmost city in the world.
Patagonia
POPULATION: 60,000 FOUNDED: 1884 WHAT’S GROOVY: Cerro Guanaco JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (emergency)
Onas
Ushuaia, Argentina
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On the Road to Tierra del Fuego By Pilar Irribarra • Translated by Carolina Wilson
T
ierra del Fuego is a mysterious and fascinating island, full of legends and scenery that will capture your imagination. It is shared by Chile and Argentina. The eastern, or Argentine part, is visited by thousands of tourists who arrive to Ushuaia from every corner of the world. But what about the Chilean side? The western part of the island boasts pampas to forest, mountains and glaciers, and possibly the most pristine natural reserve in Patagonia. Porvenir, the Fuegian capital on the Chilean side, is a good place to begin your adventure. You can rent a pick-up truck or jeep in Punta Arenas, contract a transport company with a driverguide, or start out on bicycle. However you decide to go, Porvenir is the last place where you can buy food or gas, take out money from the bank, or find any information you may need. There are hotels and restaurants in Porvenir. You can also visit the Ferdinand do Cordero Rusque Museum, with a photographic and archeological exhibit on the Ona and Yaghan tribes, the original inhabitants of the region. You’ll find information on the discovery of gold and mining; a collection of beautiful altar pieces, and a section of natural history, archeology, and ethnography.There is also a great panoramic view of Delfines from a boat in the Bahia de Chilote. Once you’re heading south on the international road, you might experience the Gold Circuit, in the Cordón de Baquedano, with a spectacular view of the Strait of Magellan.You’ll visit an area where artisanal miners mined gold. You can talk to them about the history and lifestyle, and try mining for gold nuggets using the same techniques of 100 years ago. Continuing your adventure toward Onaisin at kilometer 100, you’ll come across historical milestones, testimony to the past, when the enormous Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego left its mark on the region. In the sector called Bahia Inutil (Useless Bay), you’ll see the remains Puerto Nuevo, a lamb processing plant, which separated meat from fat (used for soap and
cooking), on former-estancia Caleta Josefina. Today you can see the remains of the installations and several machines. Caleta Josefina was the first estancia founded by the Sociedad in 1883. Some buildings are still standing, and you can visit the Cementerio de Onaisin, which was declared a National Monument in 1976. Yet even today, if you travel across the pampas in summer, you’ll see groups of shearers, “comparsas,” who go from estancia to estancia shearing thousands of sheep. A stop along the road... Cameron is a good place to stop, have a bite to eat, or simply contemplate daily life in Tierra del Fuego. It consists of the town hall, police, school and guest house. Cameron arose from the shell of an old estancia founded in 1904 by the Socieded, and it was baptized with the name of one of the managers. Its buildings demonstrate typical architecture, rich in detail, brought to the area by the English. From Cameron, you’ll have to decide between two routes. The coastal route passes sawmills at Puerto Yarton, Río Condor (famous for its fishing) and Puerto Arturo, with good places for camping. Or you can head south on the road which passes Lago Blanco, a route which goes inland and passes various secciones and puestos of the old estancia. Along the way you will see the huge dredges (aurifera) brought from England in 1904, which functioned until 1910.You’ll also pass remnants of old estancias in Section Russfin and Section Río Grande, and current-day estancias, including Enamonte,Vicuña, Río Chico, Las Flores, and so on. From the pampas to the forests and mountains... Lenga forests and beaver habitat begin south of Pampa Guanaco. This area is a fisherman’s paradise, with Río Rasmussen and Río Grande, as well as beautiful Lago Blanco. If you want to continue to the end of the road, you’ll need to go back to the main route and
Day Tripper’s Paradise: Short treks at the world’s end
Where the sidewalk ends.
head to Lago Fagnano. Along the way you’ll marvel at the mountainous scenery, and you can visit Lagos Deseado y Despreciado. At Lago Fagnano you’ll see the road project to connect Estancias Yendegaia with Puerto Williams, one of the least explored trails in Chile.The project is a challenging one, and expected to take a few more years, crossing Cordillera Darwin along the way. For now, it is a real gift to be able to experience the magical scenery of Fagnano. If you are up for more adventure, you can continue on horseback, or five more days of trekking, to arrive at Estancia Yendegaia.
Did you know? Isla Navarino by boat from Ushuaia It is possible to cross from Argentina to Chile and vice versa between Ushuaia and Isla Navarino.You can’t fly that way, but you can take a boat-van transfer to get to Puerto Williams, the military town on Isla Navarino. Due to complex international paperwork, Ushuaia Boating is the only company offering this service regularly. They schedule two trips daily (9 a.m. and 5 p.m.) and need a minimum of three travelers to make the crossing. Set up your reservation with them by email at reservas@ushuaiaboating.com. They’ll need full name, nationality, birth date and passport number for each traveler. Cost is USD $130 one way, $240 round trip. This includes the 45-minute boat ride to Puerto Navarino across the Beagle Channel, shepherding you through Chilean customs, and transportation to Puerto Williams, from which you can see the Dientes Mountains, an end-ofthe-earth trekking and hiking destination. The Ushuaia Boating office is located at 190 Godoy (tel: 02901-436153). In Puerto Williams, the contact person can be found at Hostal Coiron.
Roc kfall, S cr ee & Bou lder f ield s Trekking and climbing through boulder fields, talus or scree means dealing with possible rockfall or other hazards. In such areas, make intentional, confident steps, and keep your balance and agility in tact. Always be aware of others trekking below you, in the fall line. Walk side by side, instead of in a single-file line, to reduce the chances of knocking a rock loose and hitting a trekker below. In confined areas or gullies, where spreading out isn’t possible, walk directly behind the person in front of you, so loose rocks don’t have the time or distance to build speed before they hit someone. Traveling up gulleys one-by-one to safety zones, out of the way of possible rockfall, is another option. Should you ever rap a rock loose, of any size, yell “ROCK!” so others can take cover or move out of the way. Discuss this system with your group in advance. Typically, people’s first reaction to “ROCK!” is to raise their heads up to see what’s going on. A good way to get your teeth knocked out. The proper response is to burrow your head downward, using your backpack to protect your back, neck and head. Climb with your eyes. Take moments to pause and plan your next step, before you take it. Use your hands for balance. Don’t be afraid to work your way up a boulder field scrambling with all four limbs. Walk on the tops of large, stable boulders, when you can. It’s easier on the knees and gives you the best vantage point to plan your next steps. Do not walk in loose sand under boulders. Doing so can shift the balance of the huge rocks and cause them to roll onto you.
By C.J. Wilson
Choose from several day hikes in and around Ushuaia that follow the coast, climb above the treeline, get close to glaciers, or picnic beside small mountain lakes. Whatever direction you go, you’ll discover the raw beauty of Tierra del Fuego all around you. Here are a few suggestions to get you started, each with a café at the end to warm you up before you head back to town. For more hikes, as well as trekking information, visit the tourist information office and ask about their Senderos Antiguos and other hikes. 1. For a warm-up, head to Glaciar Martial, a local ski area situated above town and below the glacier of the same name.Take a taxi to the ski center, and hike up the ski trails until they open up at the basin below the glacier. Follow the trails as far uphill as you wish, or take a side trail to an overlook. Before you head back to town, don’t miss the Casa de Té, just off the parking lot. (For a longer day, hike up to the ski area from town. Pick up a map with directions at the tourist office). 2. For a half-day hike at Laguna Esmeralda, take a mini-bus or taxi to Refugio Altos delValle, about 20 km along Route 3. Follow the main path, through forest and fields, eventually passing through a boggy area. Scramble up the river valley toward the crest which contains the blue-green Laguna Esmeralda. Return the way you came. Arrange transportation to return to town, before you head out unless you go a time when there is a regular mini-bus shuttle.
3. In Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, tell your driver you want to do the Costera Trail, and he’ll drop you off at the closest point. Pick up a trail map when you enter the Park (you’ll need to register and pay the entrance fee). This trail, about 8 km, traverses lenga forest, never far from the coast of the Beagle Channel, with its upland geese, ibis and grebes. Watch and listen for the magellanic woodpecker too. When the trail ends at the road, continue on for another km or so to the coffee shop next to the campground and warm up next to the fireplace with a hot cuppa, while you wait for the mini-bus back to town. 4.The strenuous Cerro Guanaco hike, also in the Park, begins at the aforementioned café and campground, and follows the shore of Lago Roca (same trail as Hito XXIV), before turning northeast, steeply climbing through the forest to a lookout that overlooks the Beagle Channel. Continue upward, along a boggy trail until it opens up. As you look across the large bog, you’ll see where the trail continues. You’ll have ridgeside views of the Beagle Channel’s islets and the surrounding mountains. Return along the same path, ending back at the café where the mini-buses pick up. Note: If you plan to return to the park a second day, tell the staff at the entrance station, and you can get a stamp to re-enter the next day on the same ticket.
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Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
questions & answers
Puerto Natales is a city in Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park. It is the capital of Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region.
Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, the livelihood of Puerto Natales relies on tourism. Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Torres del Paine, there are all kinds of day tours that you can booked from the various agencies in the downtown area.
Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawéskar tribe, or Alacaluf, and the Aonikenk, or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the
Torres del Paine questions?
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Mama will treat you well
Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591.
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Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts
Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day?
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What is Navimag?
A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine.
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This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A.
What the heck is a “Zodiac”?
Puerto Natales, Chile
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If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning?
of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt.
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This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop.
A free information seminar is held every day at erratic rock hostel at 3 p.m. -Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales. Everything is covered, from refugio info to free campsites, meals to equipment. This hour-long talk is given in English and comes with a smile.
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If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day?
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Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores. Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them? Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes). What about shopping hours midday? Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. Why is there so much trash on the beach? That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up. What about recycling programs?
Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo. And all of the dogs running around?
Mama Rosa
INDIGO HOTEL - Ladrilleros 105 PUERTO NATALES - 413 609
Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...
Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.
possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There’s a military base located outside of town. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang.
Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?
Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something?
Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when
It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.
Get your Black Sheep T-shirt now!
How much do the taxis cost?
La Maddera Outdoor
1.000 pesos within city limits.
Bulnes 495 Puerto Natales, Chile
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Where are you gonna be at 3?
rucksacks & rain
Puerto Natales hostel offerring free Torres del Paine information and trekking seminar daily
Waterproofing your pack Water is heavy. A quart of water weighs about two pounds. A rucksack full of rainwater would be impossible to lift. This is why folks buy backpack covers, but they’re expensive. They weigh up to half a pound and usually leave much of your pack exposed anyway. Plus down here in Patagonia, the wind is prone to grab the flimsy cover up like a kite and set it flying. What’s more, they won´t even protect your pack if it takes a dip in a creek or river. Tip: Try lining your pack with a heavy-duty trash bag. A regular garbage bag is fine too, but the thicker the better. The trash bag offers FULL protection for everything in your pack, without having to carry the extra weight of a pricy backpack cover. Just be careful not to rip a hole in the bag while packing. And remember to have the top storage pouch lined at all times as well. When you’re ready to turn in for the night, just pull the plastic bag out of your wet backpack and move it, and your dry gear, into your tent with you. The outside of your pack might spend the night a little wet, but it’ll dry easily when the sun pops out. Next time the clouds open up and dump rain, everyone will scramble to protect their packs. But not you. You’ll be calm as a Hindu cow, knowing all your clothes and gear are wrapped and waterproof safely in a plastic bag.
By Heather Poyhonen session provides tips on traveling light as well as how to stuff and--most importantly--waterproof your pack. A lot of people who come down here aren’t necessarily experienced backpackers, but that doesn’t mean they can’t tackle the W. The gear part of the seminar goes over all the equipment you might need, down to how much gas to carry, depending on the size of your group. They discuss how to plan your meals, go about your food shop and pack your grub. The idea is to go as light as possible and return to town without having lugged a bunch of extra food or unused fuel with you to the mountains. Part of the magic of the info seminars is how welcoming and hospitible the staff is (not to mention funny and entertaining). Everyone is welcome! You don’t have to be staying at Erratic Rock or one of their hostels to attend the talk. The talks are in English, however talks in Spanish can also be arranged. When you arrive, one of the ER staff will invite you to a cup of freshly brewed coffee or tea.You’ll be asked to check out the Q&A in Black Sheep, just to familiarize yourself with some of the basics. If you’re traveling alone, the talks are also a great way to find yourself a trekking partner, someone who you can share your trek and gear with. Trekking with a partner lightens your load, as you’ll divvy up the tent, food and equipment weight. If you’re renting gear, it’s also lighter on the pocketbook, since you can also split the cost of, say, renting a tent. Attending the 3 o’clock talk is the equivalent of taking a backcountry course, given by real mountain guides who happen to have landed in Patagonia. Aside from logistics and how-to’s, the seminar’s main focus is how to prepare yourself and avoid trail stresses, especially those related to the foul weather typical of this region.The idea is to give you everything you need to dirty your boots proper in Patagonia, and wherever your journeys lead you.
Temporada de Pesca 16 de Octubre al 14 de Abril La licencia de “Aguas Continentales” y la de “Aguas Marinas,” ambas son válidas para chilenos y residentes. En el caso de los extranjeros, existe una licencia anual única, la cual se puede adquirir en la oficina de SERNAPESCA, Yungay 361- Punta Natales o 21 de mayo 149, Punta Arenas. Valor de la Licencia Aguas continentales (todo Chile)... • Chilenos y residentes 0,7 UF (aprox. $14.000) • Extranjeros 1,5 UF (aprox. $30.000) • Valor Licencia aguas marítimas $1050 (todo Chile) Lugares para pescar natales y alrededores... LAGUNA SOFÍA • Ubicación: A 30 Km. de Natales, camino Norte. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris, se tienen antecedentes de especies provenientes de cultivo Salmón Chinook y Coho.
Lago Balmaceda • Ubicación: A 40 Km. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Río Hollemberg • Ubicación: A 25 Km. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Lago Pinto • Ubicación: A 50 Km. app. al Sur de Natales. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café. Lago del Toro • Ubicación:A 80 Km. de Natales. En el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. • Especies: Trucha Marrón o Café y Trucha Arcoiris. Río Serrano • Ubicación: A 168 Km. de Natales, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Nace del lago Toro y desemboca en Seno Última Esperanza. • Especies: Trucha Marrón y Trucha Arcoiris. • Captura histórica: 20.000 kg
A hostel alternative for couples.
erratic rock 2 Bed & Breakfast b. zamora 732 puerto natales, chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 414317
Private double rooms, private bathrooms, organic breakfasts and a smile.
A touch of Africa in patagonia
Afrigonia Restaurant
Eberhard 343 Puerto Natales, Chile • fono: 56-61-412232 • afrigonia@hotmail.com
9am - 11pm
Here at Black Sheep, we award our seal of approval to businesses who give something free to their customers. The 3 o’clock talk at Erratic Rock hostel is a perfect example of this. Bill Penhollow and Rustyn Mesdag say they started the seminar basically because they had to answer all the same questions over and over throughout the day anyway. “Why not offer up all the informational goodies in one well-orgainzed sitting?” The two Oregon natives saw the information defecit and decided to fill it. “Traveling to the southern tip of the world to go trekking already takes a certain amount of dedication,” says Rustyn.“Once people arrive this far south, why make traveling any more difficult than it already is? Why not give folks the information that the guidebooks didn’t?” Essentially the talks cover all the info that Bill and Rustyn wish they had when they first got to Patagonia. It’s a simple enough concept: backpackers helping backpackers. That’s how it should be. They give the seminars seven days a week, all season long. The daily rundown covers it all, starting from how to get to the Park, all the logistics you’ll need to know to hike the W trek (4-5 days), the full circuit (8-10 days) or other shorter treks for people who are on a tighter schedule. You’ll learn, for example, why approaching the treks counterclockwise can be the better route, as it eases you into your trek and gives you the less strenuous days when your pack is heaviest and the more difficult days as your pack gets lighter. You’ll find out what’s possible in the Park (What are the trails like? Can you rent tents from the refugios? Can you use the refugio kitchens? What does your camping fee get you? Which campsites are free? Can you really drink water straight from the river? Do you have to worry about snakes, poisonous bugs or flying dinosaurs?). You’ll also hear the latest rucksack reports, like if the couple who just arrived back from the Park yesterday saw a puma or trudged through knee-deep snow in Valle del Frances. If you’re not sure how to pack your backpack, no problem. Each
Lowe Alpine • North Face • Marmot • Primus • Sierra Designs
Equipment Rental & Quality Gear Credit cards accepted. Eberhard 214 Puerto Natales, Chile cecilia_chaura@hotmail.com • Tel/fax: (61) 412589
4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY "AQUEDANO
0UERTO .ATALES
Miriam Parra Urban Artesania Design
Bulnes 622 • Bulnes 555 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 410931 • 415860 miriamparra_s@hotmail.com
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The Lowdown on Boats. Because it’s too cold to swim.
Miraflores 798 Phone 83511728
Navimag, Puerto Natales Pier.
el
SOSIEGO HOSTEL puerto natales, chile www.elsosiego.net chamorromilosevic@yahoo.es
The Milodon Laundry Service
Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Closed Sundays. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales, Chile
Eberhard 169 • Puerto Natales, Chile
Bike.
el Living. La Plaza
FREE
YOUR TASTEBUDS
bar.toore@gmail.com
the owner take him to the nearby glaciers. From there, the fishing boat expanded into a transportation and tourism company. Every season the 21 de Mayo carries thousands of tourists through Última Esperanza Sound to Bernardo O’Higgins National Park and Balmaceda Glacier. ZODIAC: A zodiac is a motorized rubber raft, used here to navigate smaller waters, such as Río Serrano, which flows out of Torres del Paine National Park, into Última Esperanza Sound. Zodiac companies generally provide their passengers with heavy rain gear to shelter them from wind, rain and the splash of chilly waters of the region. CATATMARAN: A catamaran is a double-hulled boat. It’s the kind of boat that shuttles visitors across Lago Pehoe and Lago Grey in Torres del Paine National Park. FERRY: There are many ferry services in the region, and they transport vehicles (trucks carrying goods, for example) as well as passengers. If you go to Chiloé or to Tierra del Fuego from the mainland (Argentine and Chilean sides), you’ll likely take a ferry. There are daily ferries between Punta Arenas and Porvenir as well as a weekly service between Punta Arenas and Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino.
Overland Getaways on a Shoestring Budget
T OORE r a B eat. drink. drink. drink. drink. DANCE!
Chile is long and skinny, with a whole lot of coastline. In the south, land travel is difficult and often impossible as the land gives way to glaciers, fjords and islets. Down here, boats pick up the slack that land transportation can’t, moving people and products around the region. As a traveler passing through, the boat options can be overwhelming. Here’s a quick rundown of some of the boats you’re likely to come across while traveling in southern Patagonia. NAVIMAG: Historically, this huge ferry transported goods from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. It has been an essential link between central and southern Chile, due to the absence of roads. As independent travelers sought transportation to and from the region and with the up-close fjord and mountain views it offers, Navimag took on a duel role, refitting part of its quarters to host tourists. Today it continues its weekly round-trip journey between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales, carrying around 200 passengers in high season, along with vehicles, and containers full of goods to be delivered to the far south of Chile. 21 DE MAYO: Both the name of a company and two of its boats, the 21 de Mayo started as a fishing boat. Decades ago, a geologist requested
Pto Natales, Chile
In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far away” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera. If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the Park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “El Camino a Dumestre”). You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endlessly they careen by the sea. The
farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. On a clear day, you’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Peninsula. If you come prepared, you can even camp along the beach. The law in Chile states that no one can own the edges of the ocean, fjords, or lakes. A two-day bike ride, with all your kit, is a great way to see a quieter (and cheaper) Patagonia. Puerto Natales claims some of the best views in Chile and should not be missed. Biking south, out of town, will serve you an unforgettable helping of eye-candy. If this sounds nice, but you’re still unsure, ask yourself this simple question: When do you think you’ll be back?
Foot. Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? Love Puerto Natales and planning on staying here? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two-hour hike up Cerro Dorotea, definitely on the top of the list of activities around here. Pack up your camera, rent a bike or hail a taxi. If taking a taxi, ask them to drop you off at Mirador Dorotea. If you’re not in a rush, you can just hitchhike the approximately 9 km to the Mirador. If you bike to Dorotea, take the road toward Punta Arenas and keep a lookout for the sign “Cerro Mirador Dorotea.” It’s a 15-minute taxi ride to the southern side of Dorotea. When you arrive, you’ll
have to pay the woman who lives in the house there about $3.000 pesos. This gives you permission to cross her property, and assures that a light meal with tea will be waiting for you when you return from hiking up the hill. Boot it on up the trail. It’s well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point, you catch a great view of Natales and Seno Última Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif and surrounding mountains is gorgeous. After exploring the ridgeline, head back down to enjoy your lunch and chat with the property owner.
Puerto Natales
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Amenazas y Riesgos de Salud Sin Fronteras: Unidad de Vigilancia Sanitaria de Frontera Dorotea El mundo actual, considerado una aldea global, donde los viajes internacionales son comunes y las enfermedades pueden desplazarse rápidamente, debe estar preparado para afrontar nuevos desafíos y amenazas como lo son la aparición y reaparición de nuevas enfermedades, accidentes radionucleares y químicos, bioterrorismo, etc. Es por ello, que se adoptó el nuevo Reglamento Sanitario Internacional (RSI) de la OMS Organización Mundial de la Salud, que tiene un amplio alcance internacional y se aplica a las enfermedades o eventos, independientemente del origen o fuente que representen un daño significativo a los seres humanos. Su finalidad es proteger la seguridad sanitaria mundial con la mínima interferencia a los viajes y al comercio mundial, donde surge la necesidad de que cada país tenga la capacidad de identificar, investigar, confirmar, notificar y analizar rápidamente los eventos de enfermedades nacionales, para determinar su potencial de afectar a otros países. En relación a las medidas sanitarias adoptadas por Chile dentro del marco del RSI (2005), se define establecer oficinas sanitarias en puertos, aeropuertos y pasos fronterizos terrestres. Dentro de los pasos fronterizos terrestres, en la región Magallanes y Antártica Chilena, a 27 km. de Puerto Natales, se encuentra la Unidad de Vigilancia Sanitaria Dorotea en el Paso fronterizo Dorotea, la cual comunica Chile con Argentina en su lado sur. dependiente de la SEREMI de Salud Magallanes y Antártica Chilena. Esta Oficina Sanitaria tiene por objetivo proteger la salud de la población, viajeros y personas que circulan hacia el país, realizando vigilancia de salud pública y promoviendo la salud y actualmente lleva alrededor de 10 meses de funcionamiento.
Funciones De La Secretaria Regional Ministerial De Salud En El Rsi 1.
Reforzar y mantener la capacidad de detectar, evaluar y notificar eventos de conformidad con el presente Reglamento y presentar informes sobre ellos. 2. Definir la capacidad básica necesaria para las tareas de vigilancia y respuesta. 3. Conocer la capacidad básica necesaria en los aeropuertos, puertos y pasos fronterizos terrestres designados. 4. Aplicar instrumento de decisión para la evaluación y notificación de eventos que puedan constituir una emergencia de salud publica de importancia internacional. 5. Utilizar modelo de certificado de exención del control de sanidad a bordo y certificado de control de sanidad a bordo en puertos locales. 6. Determinar prescripciones técnicas relativas a los medios de trasporte y los operadores de medios de transporte. 7. Determinar medidas concretas relativas a las enfermedades transmitidas por vectores. 8. Efectuar vacunación, estudio y profilaxis de brotes y certificados conexos. 9. Otorgar consejeria sobre requisitos concernientes a la vacunación o la profilaxis contra enfermedades determinantes de nivel internacional. 10. Aplicar y conocer modelo de declaración marítima de sanidad. 11. Aplicar y conocer declaración general de aeronave decretada por la organización de aviación civil internacional. 12. Mantener alerta epidemiológica en centro enlace y coordinar sectorial e intersectorial frente a un riesgo de evento de salud pública de importancia internacional.
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Two Silversmiths.
One Art.
While traveling in Patagonia, it’s easy enough to find a typical souvenir for yourself or a loved one. But if you want to bring home a real piece of Patagonia, made by good people, who live, work, and play locally, go talk to Ricardo and Felipe. Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, Taller del Arbol store owners and artist silversmiths have been working together, on and off, since 1985. Their partnership is the result of a series of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to
Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat: the grease in meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. And we especially need it for energy while trekking. A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use non-biodegradable products at all. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left-over grease on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue. Impossible to remove without soap and hot water... or is it? Here’s the trick: Take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fistful of dirt and scrub! The small granules of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any of the tough-toscrub food particles from your dishes. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap-free!
1 & 2-day tours through the Patagonian fjords & canals. Visit the Sendero Alacalufe web site for details.
www.senderoalacalufe.com
sendero-alacalufe@hotmail.com Puerto Natales, Chile • Ph 56 61 414747
AquaNativa Sea Kayaking Eberhard 161 Puerto Natales,Chile • Ph 414143
Kayak.
www.aquanativapatagonia.com
The Taller del Arbol Workshop in Natales
Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop,Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318
Washing With Dirt
the next, until there you are, not entirely sure how you got there and not having planned for where you end up. They describe the craft of the jewelry maker: “Any material is valuable if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it.” And that is just what they do. When talking about the importance of passion in his work, Ricardo explains he has “to keep changing to keep the passion in [his] work. Somehow, you have to conserve part of the passion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to produce more work.” And you see this all over Taller del Arbol, the first silversmith shop in Puerto Natales. Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work. Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery. They work with anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, you name it. You can find them in the store with a red door, Eberhard 318, with the hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, Monday-Friday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.
torres del paine tested in patagonia
New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310
Aquaterra Lodge • Puerto Natales, Chile
Phone +56 61 412239 • Bulnes 299 • Puerto Natales, Chile
www.aquaterrapatagonia.com
November.08
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Punta Arenas, Chile
Why are there ropes on the main square corners? Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street. Where is the bus station? Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent. Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas? Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time… Is there any public transportation? Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive.
Yes, tap water is absolutely safe. Does Punta Arenas have a camping? Not at walking distance from the center.
Mario Toledo
Julia Garay
Caupolican
Quillota
Jorge Montt
O‘Higgins
Lautaro Navarro
Senoret
Can I drink the tap water?
Mejicana I. Carrera Pinta
Ave. Colon
era
tan
os e. C Av
How far is Torres del Paine from here? Jose Menedez
4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance. How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas? Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.
To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan.You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.
How do I know where the colectivos go?
Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map?
There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!
Yes! For a price. Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255) offers boat trips to remote islands for almostoff-the-map trekking, fishing, and more.
Errazuriz
Ave. Indepencia
250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.
Roca
Fagnano
Balmaceda
How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia?
What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?
Pedro Montt
Waldo Seguel
21 de Mayo
Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.
Sarmiento Yugoslavia
Bories
What does Punta Arenas mean?
There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.
Ave. Espana
Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.
Maipu
Arauco
What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?
Where can I change money?
Magallanes
Angamos
All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.
Ave. Bulnes
How much do taxis cost?
interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.
Jose Nogueira
questions & answers
Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those
Chiloe
POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
Armando Sanhueza
Port
Punta Arenas, Chile
Boliviana
What are my penguin options?
How much is an airport transfer?
1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.
A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles, which take a bit longer because they have more people to pick up, but they’re more economical.
2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day. What type of day tours are there? You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended). Do the street dogs bite? Yes, gringos only. How far is the airport out of town? About 20km or 30 minutes. How many people live here? About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.
Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent. How do I get to the big shopping mall from downtown? Take a taxi, or cheaper yet - take a colectivo number 800, 300, 114, 112, 777 or 17. These colectivos will drop you off at the huge grocery store, Lider, which is part of the mall.
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Go South. Way South. The Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino
The typical cairn pattern of the Dientes Circuit trail. Hitting the Dientes is not for everyone. More skill and planning is needed to tackle the rough trails here.
B
illed as the southernmost trekking opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino is miles beyond any ordinary trekking experience. For 53 kilometers, the route winds through an otherworldly landscape. Mountains broken out from the floor of the ocean. Where the Andes crumble into the Antarctic Plate. Where tenuous passes defy the staggering winds. Where spartan vegetation clings precariously bracing itself against the punishing climate and the manipulations of the introduced beaver. For the serious trekker, the five-day Dientes Circuit is a chance to experience unique terrain at what is literally the last scrap of land before the legendary Cape Horn and Antarctic Sea. And while the route offers many worthy experiences, like awesome views that stretch as far as the Cape
Horn straits, it is also impressive for what it lacks, like crowded trails, clearly defined paths, and overcrowded refugios. In fact, there are no refugios on the route. There is not even an entrance fee to pay. Trekkers are only required to check in with the carabineros in Puerto Williams. From there, the trailhead is just three kms from the tiny village of Puerto Williams with a good possibility that you won’t see anyone else in the course of the circuit. The Dientes Circuit is relatively new, developed in the early ’90s by Lonely Planet trekking guide author Clem Lindemayer. A few of the more prominent peaks along the circuit have been named after him. Cierro Clem, for example, makes an impressive profile and serves as an important landmark. Because of the difficulty of the route and the distance of Isla Navarino from the beaten path,
Reputation is everything.
By J. Williams
the Dientes Circuit receives a fraction of Chile’s annual trekking visitors. The route was marked with the Chilean numbered trail marker system in early 2001, but it is still far from a well-marked path. The Dientes trekker needs to be self-reliant and good at route finding.The 38 trail points are spread over a 53 km route, with four significant passes to cross and a myriad maze of beaver ponds and dams to negotiate in the valleys between. It is strongly advised to follow the route from Puerto Williams, as the markers are only painted on one side. Since the markers are cairns (rock piles), individual trail markers are often difficult to distinguish from their surroundings without the red signage painted on them to mark the route. Weather is also a strong factor, particulary the strength of the winds that sweep up from the white continent and make the passes, especially the final pass, Paso Virginia, very dangerous. Blasts of wind strong enough to knock a heavily loaded trekker from their feet are not uncommon and come without warning. The Dientes Circuit is broken into five stages, each stage requiring about five hours to complete. With the long daylight hours of the southern hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be tempted to combine two stages into one day. While it is possible to do the circuit in four days, it would involve a day with two passes to surmount or a very long final day, descending from the nearly 900-meter Paso Virginia back to sea level, over a distance of 23 kms. The route markers end more than 300 meters above sea level, looking down on Bahia Virginia, and from there, the trekker must negotiate through the cow pastures and calafate bushes to the coastal road. Then hike the final 8 kms of pavement back to Puerto Williams. Passing trucks will often stop for trekkers on the final stretch. Otherwise, it’s about a two-hour walk back to Puerto Williams. Just getting to Isla Navarino is part of the adventure itself. The Patagonian airline company DAP flies a 20-odd seat twin otter from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams daily in the summer. The flight over Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan is incredibly scenic, and oddly enough, the least expensive option. There are, however, other options. Though more expensive than flying, it’s possible to travel by boat from Ushuaia across the Beagle Channel to Puerto Navarino and then travel the 50odd kms of coastal road east to Puerto Williams. For the truly intrepid traveler, the Punta Arenas-based Transbordadora Austral Broom operates a once a week passenger ferry to Puerto Williams, a 30-hour trip through the Straits of Magellan and along the Beagle Channel.Though spartan in accommodations and service, the passing scenery of hanging glaciers and mountains that float on water truly convey an end of the world sensation.
Errazuriz 567 Punta Arenas, Chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 221130
erratic rock hostel punta arenas
Bories No 655 / Punta Arenas
Private & shared rooms Private & shared bath Kitchen, internet, laundry Tours & transfers
O’Higgins 765 Punta Arenas, Chile Tel/Fax (+56 61) 249130 hostallaestancia@yahoo.com www.estancia.cl
Fully Equipped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet & Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Coffee Shop
Hain Hotel
José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@gmail.com Punta Arenas, Chile
November.08
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Have you ever seen so many street dogs? The Punta Arenas humane society, La Protectora de Punta Arenas, needs your help! Although they provide critical services for stray animals, they are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs, La Protectora (or Corporacion de la Defensa de los Derechos de los Animales, CODDA) runs the southernmost animal shelter in the world. Founded in 1990 by Señora Elia Tagle to stop the cruel poisoning of stray dogs by the local and federal governments (who used strychnine), the nonprofit runs essential sterilization and educational programs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000.
La Protectora receives no public funding, but they manage to stretch their $20,000 USD per year budget pretty far. On this budget, they operate a shelter with 100-140 dogs and 2-5 cats. Most of their animals are not locked in cages and run around freely in several pens, eating twice daily, playing, and sometimes fighting. La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified euthanasia when necessary.With the help of the police, they also respond to cruelty and neglect cases. One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership. Another project hosts a group of high school students from the local British School, who are obligated to volunteer in order to graduate. Wondering what you can do to help? You
Torres
f e del paine e Cabañas del Paine l Hotel
f e e l
. 44 rooms with the best view of the Paine mountain chain . Restaurant and grill incorporated . Excurtions and transfers www.cabanasdelpaine.cl reservas@cabanasdelpaine.cl phone:243354
f e experts e Magdalena and l
Penguin
s i e n t e
Marta Island
. (150.000 penguins y 1500 sea lions) . Seno Otway Penguin colony . Bulnes Fort Jose Nogueira 1255 Pta. Arenas www.soloexpediciones.com
Rio de Los ciervos
f e e estancia l “The past of pioners
f e e l
s i e n t e
close to Punta Arenas”
. Only 5 km of the city . Historical Circuit . Typical Food . Horses riding . Acommodations
fotografo: Luis Bertea
f e e l
can help pressure the local and regional governments to support La Protectora. Write a letter to the editor of La Prensa Austral, the Punta Arenas-based regional paper, discussing how this issue affects tourism. The more letters they receive, the more local officials will respond. Draw attention to the issue by speaking with tourist-related businesses, such as travel agencies, tourist offices, and hostels. This helps raise the awareness of locals, who want happy tourists and a good reputation for their town. Financially, you can make a donation. Visit their web site (www.chileaustral.com/perros) with a PayPal account. Or better yet, stop by in person. La Protectora is located on the outskirts of Punta Arenas on the road to Club Andino at Avenida Circunvalación 1950. You can also reach them by calling (56-61) 262607 or writing to perros@chileaustral.com.
These dogs need your help. Contact perros@chileaustral.com or call 56.61.262.607 (English, Spanish and dog spoken.)
Patagonia’s Ghosts. A History. By Marcela Suazo
T
he human presence in these remote lands repeats the thirst for adventure that has guided human beings since their origin. The first tribes of hunters that occupied these territories arrived 12,000 years ago. Only 6000 years ago, the Kaweshkar canoers, along with the Aonikenk (ancient dwellers of the plains), initiated the permanence and continuity of man in this corner of the planet. Soon after, the arrival of the Spanish captain Juan Ladrilleros (1557-58) marked the discovery of the zone and much later the German pioneer Hermann Eberhard (189293) initiated the colonization the area. Even later the arrival of many Chilean people from the island of Chiloé put their seal of identity on this area called Patagonia. The Yamanas or Yaghans, known as the canoeist of the Beagle, were the southernmost inhabitants in the world. They lived along the edges of the Beagle Channel, as well as neighbouring channels, as far south as Cape Horn. They were adapted to living on the coast, hunting southern sea lions for their principal source of food because of their high fat content. The Sélknam or Onas inhabited the steppes in the north and the woods in the south of Tierra del Fuego. Their way of life was very similar to that of the Aonikenk, although they never used horses.They hunted guanaco, wild birds and rodents. They lived in circular huts made of tree trunks covered with leather and sticks. The Sélknam were
tall, formidable, and more aggressive in character than the other aboriginals. They died out having been displaced from their lands or eliminated by the colonists who cleared the land in order to set up farms. The Kawéskar. Called the Alacalufes by the Spanish, lived spread out in small groups that travelled, via canoe, through the channels of the Archipelago. They inhabited the area stretching from the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Pains) to the Brecknock Peninsula, a very damp and rainy area with abundant vegetation. They hunted sea lions, otters and birds, as well as fished and collected shellfish and molluscs. They would take advantage of the meat and skin of any whale beached by the low tides. They built their canoes with pieces of cut bark tied together with vegetable fibres and sealed with a mixture of earth, clay, and roots. Their huts were made with wooden poles which were covered with sea lions skin. The Aonikenk or Patagones inhabited the steppe from the River Santa Cruz in Argentina in the north to the Straight of Magellan in the south. They spent their time hunting rhea (Ñandú) and other birds, as well as the guanaco whose meat they ate and skin they used for clothing. Their homes were made using leather and wooden poles. All of the group participated in the hunt for guanaco and rheas. The women carried the tools and helped to strengthen the fencing used to isolate the animals so that they could be attacked by the men with “Boleadoras” and bows and arrows.
Public service announcement...
s i e n t e www.estanciariodelosciervos.com Fonos reservas: 061- 710219 fax: 243354 asz@soloexpediciones.com
What are those yellow tins at the checkout stands?
You may have noticed the yellow collecting boxes in stores around Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. And if you are in these parts around November 22, you will undoubtedly see people in the streets with the tins. They are collecting for the Rehabilitation Centers run by the Cruz del Sur branch of the Lions Club International. There is a large center in Punta Arenas and a few years ago a smaller one opened in Natales offering a wide range
of services--mainly for children, although they also work with adults. Not exactly the snappiest title but these “Days for Disabled Magellanic Children” aim to raise 30% of the running costs of the centers. Many events are held in the months leading up to the actual Jornada and on the day there will be many people dressed up collecting money and doing other fund raising activities. This is a Magallanes project as the region is not included in the network of rehabilitation centers funded by the nationwide Telethon. So, if you have a few pesos to spare or if you answer “sí” when they ask you that seemingly random question when they’re about to give you your change in the grocery stores, you will be supporting a worthwhile local charity.
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Revenge of the Penguins
Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero
Necesito un aviso en
21 de Mayo 1469 • Punta Arenas • 56-61 241029
remezon@hotmail.com
Black Sheep.
blacksheepchile@gmail.com
HOSTEL Y TURISMO
Jose Menendez 882 Punta Arenas, Chile Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279
JO
S E MENEN D E Z josemenendez@chileaustral.com
www.chileaustral.com/josemenendez
Penguin contemplating ship full of sailors contemplating the penguins -- Antactica. Photo: Rustyn Mesdag
E
very year in mid-September, the first black and white heads timidly pop out of the cold water from the Strait of Magellan. Spring has begun and soon the first brave Magellanic Penguin steps onto one of Patagonia’s lone pebble beaches, just like their anscesters have done for thousands of years. Only males arrive at the beginning, but it doesn’t take long for the females to join the males and start finding their soul mates for the sole but definite purpose of reproduction. They then stay all summer until their chicks are big enough to join their parents at the end of March on their long journey north. There are five colonies that you can visit around Punta Arenas: Seno Otway, Isla Magdalena, Cabo Virgenes, Tucker Islet, and Ruppert Islet. All of contain the same species: Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus). So what are your options? Pretty much all tour operators and travel agencies in Punta Arenas offer daily departures to Seno Otway in the afternoon, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m., picking folks up at their accommodations. It’s an hour drive through the Patagonian pampas to reach private property, where about 11,000 penguins nest. The landlord officially opened his terrain for visitors on October 15, 2007, and will close it up at the end of March, when the penguins start to head north.This year, the entrance fee at Seno Otway is 4.500 pesos. There’s also a fee of 1.000 pesos to use the private road, the only way to access the colony. The ferry boat that connects Punta Arenas and Porvenir takes you to Isla Magdalena on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, but it doesn’t start operating until the end of November or beginning of December. There’s about 120,000
penguins on Isla Magdalena. This excursion begins at “Tres Puentes” port, which you can reach from downtown Punta Arenas by hopping on one of the colectivos, either nº 15 or 20. The price for this tour will be 20.000 pesos, including entrance fee. Every day at 7:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. (weather permitting), you can catch a fast zodiac boat across the Strait of Magellan to Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta. The latter island is home to about 1,000 sea lions, who consider Isla Magdalena their special penguin restaurant. This is an adventurous yet safe alternative to the ferry. Price: 32.000 pesos, including the shuttle transfer from/to Punta Arenas and to/from the dock, and the entrance fee. The Eastern entrance of the Strait of Magellan is called Cabo Virgenes. Nearby, on Argentine soil, is a penguin colony that is said to be the second largest in South America (after Punta Tombo), with about 200,000 birds. It is best reached by joining a tour from Río Gallegos or by renting a car and driving the dirt road southeast of Río Gallegos yourself. It’s a pretty large distance, but the chances that you and the penguins will be the only ones there are pretty good! Price from Río Gallegos: 120 Argentinian pesos plus 15ARP entrance fee. A visit to Tucker Islet is only possible by joining one of the weekly expedition cruises from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia onboard the Mare Australis or Via Australis. Prices for the 5 day/4 night cruise start at USD 1,150 per person. To get there, you can join a Humpback Whale Watching tour that runs from December to April from/to Punta Arenas.The penguin colony has an estimated 20,000 members. This season’s prices for the 3 day/2 night all-inclusive tour is USD 900 per person.
La Marmita
Arauco Healthy. Vegetarian. Patagonian.
Restaurant/Bistro
Senoret
Ave. Colon
Jose Menedez
Fagnano
Waldo Seguel
Errazuriz
Balmaceda
Armando Sanhueza
Chiloe Bories
ogueira
Angamos
Maipu
Ave. Espana
Ave. Bulnes Magallanes
Mayo
Pedro Montt
Lautaro Navarro
Roca
Plaza Sampalo 678 Punta Arenas, Chile O‘Higgins phone 56 61 222056 Sarmi
Yugos
Mejic
I. Carrer
Pun
Jorge Montt Quillota
José Nogueira 1116 • Phone (56-61) 241300 www.hotelplaza.cl • Punta Arenas, Chile
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Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential
questions & answers
Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the
What’s the Park entrance fee? D go La
What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m. In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park at 2 p.m., más o menos. Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.
Torres del Paine Refugio Information Prices are in U.S. dollars*
Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.
Torres d del Paine National tion ional Park
una a Lagm rg A a
tow n s
park entrance Lago
jold ensk Nörd
Lago Pehoe
c amping iento Sarm Lago
ro a d s tr ai l s er r i vver
Lago Verde
Sierra del Toro
Lago del Toro
Cerro Castillo
Pueblito Río Serrano
s iggin O’H rdo Park a n r l Be tiona Na Puerto Toro
Últim
a Es
pera
Is it better to trek the park clockwise or counterclockwise?
Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 albergue@lastorres.com
Azul
nza
Fjor d
Argentina
What’s the latest I can start a trek in the Park?
Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.
C amp o del Hielo Sur - Patagonian S outhern Ice Field
How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.
How much money should I carry into the Park with me? 15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios.
ine el Pa rk a ed d Torr tional P Na
G l a c i er Gre y
ey Gr go La
How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.
Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas.
Lago
n so
What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.
How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free.
e Pain Lago
ick
15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD).
don Milo Cave
Puerto Natales
You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.
Vertice +56-61 412742 ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Breakfast
$10.00
Dorm bed
$40.00
Lunch
$14.00
Campsite
$8.00
Dinner
$18.00
Sleeping bag
$9.00
Full board
$80.00
2-person tent $14.00 Mattress
standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.
$3.00
*Prices are approximate and may be slightly higher at some refugios. Note: Schedules often change at the start of the season. Check with the refugio companies directly for the latest info for openings and closures.
How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the Park? It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.
Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.
Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?
Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples.
Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season. Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.
Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food. Should I worry about bugs in the Park? You will see bugs on the back circuit if there is no wind and some warmer weather. Bug repellent is a good idea.
Do I have to worry about making my reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine? Yes. For now, in early season, make sure to talk to the office you bought your ticket at, and speak to the driver - just to be sure. It becomes easier in mid-season. How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.
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Volunteer sign-ups:
A
MA. The word means love in Spanish. And this is what the Agrupación Medioambiental Torres del Paine (known as AMA for short), is all about. The environmental conservation organization cares for the areas in and around Torres del Paine National Park. They do their best to make sure the Park isn’t loved to death by the 128,000 people visiting it each year. Ecologist and director of AMA, Juliana Torres, says, “The park is dealing with a huge number of visitors every day. Our biggest challenge is to inform visitors and make sure they realize how important it is to leave no trace, behave properly and care about the natural beauty of Torres del Paine while they’re enjoying it.” Torres plans to focus AMA’s on creating programs that educate locals and visitors about the environment and its needs. She also hopes to organize conservation projects, such as trail maintenance and recycling programs, along with supporting scientists in their investigations of the Park’s flora and fauna. Oscar Guineo, a plant researcher and park ranger since the Park’s creation in 1975, collaborates with AMA, performing investigations of vegetation in areas burned by wildfire as well as a census of the endangered huemul (Andean deer). Guineo sees AMA as a much-needed organization in Torres del Paine, where the administration’s main priorities, thus far, have been promoting recreation and tourism, not conservation. Guineo hopes AMA can help to focus people’s attention on the importance of protecting the plants and animals. “Working together with the park administration and bringing experts in from
around the world has the potential to benefit the Park tremendously. If experts from other places come and say things are bad and they need to change, they might change.” This is what volunteers from around the world do: they travel to Patagonia and help AMA achieve its environmental and conservation goals. Jacob Wagner, a 23-year-old natural resource management student from Colorado, participated in a wildfire vegetation study. He joined a brigade in fighting a wildfire near Laguna Azul, helped construct a new trail near Refugio Chileno, and delivered a presentation on Leave No Trace principles to the guides who work for the Las Torres hotel. “So many of the people who come to Torres del Paine don’t have much experience being outside,” Wagner said. “To have a group to educate visitors and be the voice saying, ‘Take care of this place,’ is crucial.” Torres hopes AMA can start working with the national corporations that run the Park as well as the various guiding companies, tour operators, and hotels that work within it. “In the end, we all have the same objectives and mission: to protect this beautiful place. We need to work together. We need commitment, and we need cooperation.” AMA is looking for volunteers with knowledge of and passion for the environment to work 2-4-week stints. They are also seeking monetary help to fund their conservation projects. For information about how to donate your time or money, check out the AMA web site at www.amatorresdelpaine.org.
Face to face with a puma? First: Count yourself lucky... There are people that have spent years working in the park and never saw a puma. But then there are also those day trippers who take a strolls on Lago Grey’s beach, and suddenly come eye to eye with a puma. But what to do if you actually get to see a puma? 1. Most important, don’t run! The puma might think you’re a juicy (and easy to catch) boxed lunch to go. With a puma, the saying “act like a victim, become a victim,” holds true. 2. Make yourself look bigger and more dangerous than the puma in front of you. The puma will leave if it’s not sure it’s going to win.
One small, even non-lethal wound to a puma may inhibit its ability to hunt properly. Make a lot of noise, too. Use jackets or bags (or whatever else you may think of at this moment) to hold over your head for appearance’s sake. 3. And last of all, but not least important, smile. (This may be difficult depending on your proximity to the puma.) Take a moment to realize how lucky you are for winning the puma lottery.
Pisco Sour, your post-trail cocktail In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it’s delicious. There’s a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. You might even taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (Yes, there’s a lot of meat... good luck if you’re a vegetarian!) But you’ll also find good, strong drinks and a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. There are many pisco-mixed drinks out there, piscola (pisco and coke) being one of the most common. Pisco sour is the most popular pisco drink among tourists. It’s a good idea to try pisco sours at different places, because each restaurant or bar has their own touch or flavor.You can even find delicious calafate sour based on the same mix. But you can also make pisco sour yourself, in your hostel or once you get home. Pisco Sour • 3 parts pisco • 1 part lemon juice • Powdered sugar • 1 egg white • Ice cubes Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it’s a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so pucker up and enjoy!
D r i n k yo u r f i l l o f wat e r While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you’d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp in mild weather would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: Clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that’s different. If you’re feeling thirsty, then you’re already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also signs of dehydration. Take time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It’s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a liter in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it’s so important to drink continually all day. Torres del Paine is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So, bottoms up!
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS 2008-2009 Season Schedule
Dates
From Pudeto
From Refugio Pehoe
October 16 - November 15, 2008
12.00 18.00
12.30 18.30
November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009
09.30* 12.00 18.00
10.00* 12.30 18.30
March 16 - 31, 2009
12.00 18.00
12.30 18.30
April 2009
12.00
12.30
*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2008 & 01/01/2009.
One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person
Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net
L ago del T oro
Laundry, Transfers, Horse riding
Like home... Hosteria Fono: 56 61 412481 Reservas Fono:56 61 220014 (Punta Arenas)
Río Serrano, Patagonia hosteria@lagodeltoro.com www.lagodeltoro.com
A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
Fotografia © 2008 Daniel Bruhin W.
H o s t e r i a
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Have You Seen Zapata? By Peter Webb Last year nearly 130,000 people visited Torres del Paine National Park and many of the backpackers completed either the “W” or the “Circuit” which offer spectacular views of the Paine Massif and the Grey and Dickson glaciars. With that many visitors, however, the trails can start to seem more like pedestrian thoroughfares than the remote wilderness passages you would expect so close to the southern end of the American continent. So if you have a day or two and want to “get away,” try visiting a less frequented side of our beloved park. Just across the parking lot at the Guardaría Grey is a trail that leads all the way up the Pingo River
Did you know? In 1980, Torres del Paine National Park sent three rangers to Aisen to capture huemul (Andean deer) in hopes of rebuilding the nearly extinct population. The rangers hunted the deer for two months, based at Caleta Tortel. They built a corral to house the captured animals and hand-collected grass to feed them. By the end of two months the rangers had caught seven huemuls and it was time to start the long journey to the Park. The men and huemuls sailed by small boat to bigger boat to a ferry to Punta Arenas, and finally the long truck ride to the Park! Today, if you’re lucky, you can see the recovering huemul population in the Park, especially near Guardería Grey.
to secluded spot that will allow you to appreciate the solitude of southern Patagonia. It’s a modest 14 kilometer walk through beautiful Lenga forests where you might find a Magellanic Woodpecker the size of a small turkey or an endangered Huemul on your way to Camping Zapata. You’re as close to the icefield as just about anywhere else in the park and you’ll more than likely have the whole place to yourself. The trail itself is clearly marked and easy to follow. There isn’t a lot of elevation gain, though there are a few big hills, so it’s a great warm-up for the “W” or the circuit if you’ve got the time. Be sure to take the short detour marked cascada about an hour to ninety minutes from the trail head and take some time to enjoy a snack in front of the secluded waterfall just a hundred meters up the trail. After that it’s a scenic couple of hours to the “Cascada Pingo” or Pingo waterfall. From the falls, the trail gets a little less traveled, though it’s not hard to find your way the last 45 minutes to an hour where there’s an open field with lots of trees around the outside for some shelter and plenty of good spots for tents. At the campsite marker the trail forks to the left and right. To the right is the closest water, the Pingo River, and to the left the trail continues another 250 meters to another fork.The trail to the left is marked “Mirador Zapata” while the trail to the right has not marker, just cairns of rocks leading across the rocky floodplain. Follow this path and get a great view of the Pingo Glaciar from the banks of the Río de los Hielos, or be aventurous and cross the river and find your way to the abandoned Pingo lookout. If you arrive at the Zapata lookout, however, you might find yourself wondering what is so special about the small lake in front of a rocky slope. While the area is covered with morraine and glacial till, the Zapata glaciar is nowhere to be
found. Like nearly all of the roughly fifty glaciars composing the Southern Patagonian Icefield, the Zapata glaciar has been retreating and thinning for years and now there is no substancial ice flowing down from the main part of the icefield. It’s a beautiful spot, nonetheless, and a great reminder to both enjoy and preserve the environment as even the Park’s resources are diminishing every day.
Non-Native Wild Invaders Flowering
Patagonia.
By Christina Cooke No, that dandelion is not supposed to be here. And neither is that clover. And that scentless chamomile? An outsider as well. These plant species, and a number of others, made their way to Patagonia years ago and, quite literally, put down roots. Some biologists estimate around 25 percent of the plant species in some parts of Torres del Paine National Park originated elsewhere. “Invasive species are going to continue arriving as a consequence of tourism,” said botanist Osvaldo Vidal, author of the guide Flora Torres del Paine and a doctoral student in Germany, speaking in Spanish. “This is clear.” Many of the invasive grasses and ground covers found in Patagonia were introduced as forage for livestock, and many of the flowers were brought
over for ornamentation purposes. Other plants arrived by accident:Their seeds rode into the region in the fur, feathers or intestines of animals, or the shoes, clothing, tents or cars of humans. Most came from Europe. Some of the most common invasive species in Torres del Paine today are Poison Hemlock, Red Sorrel, Scentless Chamomile, Silver Hairgrass and Spotted Catsear. Invasive plants have earned a bad reputation in the scientific community for their tendency to change ecological patterns and displace their native counterparts. Few, if any, studies have been conducted to determine the effects of the invaders in Patagonia, however. Morty Ortega, a professor at the University of Connecticut who has conducted research in the park since 1977, said he considers most of the invasive grasses and ground covers in Patagonia more useful than threatening. “Perhaps the most dangerous ones are those that are brought as ornamentals and escape because of their aggressive nature,” he said, citing a fast-spreading, white-flowered plant named cicuta as a prime example. He described the plant as both poisonous and useless. Human visitors, hikers especially, are the single greatest threat to the native Patagonian ecosystem today,Vidal and Ortega agree. In addition to unknowingly spreading seeds, they compact the soil, making it ill suited for fragile native species and ideal for hearty invaders. So, as you trek through Torres del Paine National Park this season, do your part to slow the invasion.Stay on established campsites and trails, and wash seeds from your clothes and supplies before you arrive and after you leave. That way, Patagonia can stay Patagonia, and stop evolving into the countryside outside your hometown.
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Calafate, Argentina
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How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate? By bus. It takes 4.5 hours to get to Chaltén from Calafate. In winter there’s only one bus in the morning. Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales? Not really. The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the evening bus to El Chaltén. How many people live in El Chaltén? 200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capitol and youngest city, founded in 1985. What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any ATMs, banks, or places to change money. Some places accept dollars or euros, but not Chilean pesos. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It’s up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the Park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all leave-no-trace principles. Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén? In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/ Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles. What if I don’t have lodging reservations? The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel
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How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales? It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities. What can I do in Calafate? Visit the glaciers. Perito Moreno is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit six other glaciers in the area (Upsala, Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis & Heim). How do I get to/from the Calafate airport? By the airport shuttle, which costs around $18 ARS per person. By taxi it’s $50 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops. Where is the information center in Calafate? The information center is in the bus station. Can I drink the tap water? In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people. Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed. This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box. When are the stores open, anyway? In Calafate, they’re open from around 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m. What’s the weather like in these parts? It’s Patagonia. The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer. How can I visit Perito Moreno Glacier? There are tours that include pick up and guide. The regular bus entrance.You can also take one of the remises, though this is a more expensive option. What about ice hikes on the glacier? There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice. To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip. Bring your own lunch for the excursions. The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time! Who was Perito Moreno? Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.
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El Calafate
Is it safe at night? Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. Where can I camp in El Calafate? There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities, and all around ARS$18 per person. The best one is El Ovejero. Are there any cheap eating options? Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price. What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).
and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.
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questions & answers
Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets
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POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)
Lago Argentino
or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village. Where can I camp in El Chaltén? In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. Outside of town, Camping Confluencia is free. Madsen, the former free camping near the entrance of the Fitz Roy Trail is closed indefinitely. There are also a few payfor campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers. How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You need to stay at least one night. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing
some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto. Will my cell phone work in Chaltén? Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?
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Bragging rights: Chaltén! By Heather Poyhonen
It’s the typical Gringo Trail. Sometime before or after he ‘W’ in Torres del Paine, travelers head for Calafate to check out Perito Moreno Glacier, buy souvenir matés, and catch the bus to El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital. Many people end up doing day hikes, but it is possible to link a few of the hot spots and get yourself a multiday backpacking journey. Here’s an example of a four dayer--from Río Eléctrico to Lago Torre--which can easily be lengthened. Getting Ready. You’ll probably spend your first day getting to Chaltén (about five hours from Calafate), walking around the town’s soon-to-be paved dirt roads and making sure you have everything you need for your trek. Chaltén is a growing town, but it still lacks ATMs, money exchangers, and places that accept credit cards. This, of course, is part of its charm. Though, it’s not so charming if you find yourself penniless with pockets outturned, washing dishes to pay for your dinner or lodging. In stocking up for a 4-5 night trip, consider buying your grub in Calafate.The selection is larger and you might find it’s a tiny bit cheaper. If you’re already in Chaltén and ready to do your shop, just skip La Anonima. It hardly has anything
Si tu destino es El Calafate, Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...
even though it appears to be the biggest market on the main drag. The other stores in town have a good selection of fresh produce and camping food (instant rice packages, cereal bars, oatmeal and just about any mini-item you’d want: packets of jam, butter, lemon juice, spices, you name it), though buying your goods in Chaltén can be a bit pricey. Make sure you carry your own bag or backpack for your shop, as Chaltén, like Calafate, has banned plastic bags. (Gotta love this place!) Don’t worry, though. If you’re struggling, they’ll snicker and give you a cardboard box. Your first night in Chaltén, you can stay in one of many hostels or at one of the pay-for campsites in town. These have bathrooms and hot water for showers. Camping Madsen, at the foot of the Fitz Roy trail is closed indefinitely. That means if you want to camp for free, you’ll have to stay at Confluencia on the opposite side of town and pretty far away from the main trailheads. Day 1. To Piedra del Fraile. Walk toward the end of town, and instead of heading for the Fitz Roy Trail, veer right, following the signs to El Pilar Hotel. From here you have two options: Hire a transfer to Río Eléctrico, which you can arrange at the last kiosk in town (right across from the fork in the road heading to El Pilar), or hitch a ride. A lot of the vehicles that pass will be full rental cars or buses, so be patient and keep walking. Once you reach Río Electrico (a kilometer or two past El Pilar Hotel), you’ll take the Río Eléctrico trail for about two hours to reach camping Piedra del Fraile.This is private property, so be prepared to pay $25 pesos to camp. Fraile is the only camping that you’ll pay for, and they have hot showers, sheltered cooking areas, and homecooked meals or beer for sale. From Fraile, you have a couple of dayhike opportunities: Paso de Cuadrado and Lago Eléctrico Glacier. Both are about three hours out. Ask the person who receives you at Piedra Fraile how to find the route to Paso del Cuadrado. They’ll surely say, “muy muy epinado.” It’s steep as a mother#%$?!, and they mean you’ll have to use all fours to scramble up the scree. It’s a one step forward, half a step back sort of trail, pretty much the entire way. But the views on a clear day are enough to knock the wind out of you, if the climb doesn’t. You’ll see Fitz Roy’s other face and the glacier from afar. Day 2. Piedra del Fraile to Poincenot.
Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306 www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar
Today you have choices. If you want to take it easy and spend another day at this campsite (for another $25), plan on doing the other day hike to Lago Eléctrico, a bleak glacial lake.You’ll hug the sheer slippery rocks, which drop into the lake itself on the way to the glacier for a couple hours. It is possible to start early in the morning, hike to Lago Eléctrico, return and eat a late breakfast or early lunch, pack up your gear and set off for Poincenot. To reach Camping Poincenot, you’ll backtrack for about an hour on the Río Eléctrico route, where you’ll meet the juncture in the main trail. At this point, you can take an old abandoned trail, which is more direct, but rockier, unkempt and unmarked. It’s a bit tricky to find, so don’t worry if you miss it.You can head all the way back to El Pilar and take the main, well-marked trail from there. Once you reach Poincenot, set up camp, eat and relax.You are well poised for a sunrise show at Fitz Roy. If you still have daylight and energy, head over to Piedras Blancas. The sign says it’ll take you about 30 minutes from camp, but allow for more time and plan on journeying all the way to Lago Piedras Blancas to enjoy close-up views of the glacier there. It’s a fun jaunt, hopping from boulder to smooth boulder with the clear glacial water reflecting your leaps from below. (Note: If you don’t
Next stop: Fitz Roy. do this on day 2, you can enjoy this part of the trip on day 3 and maybe even spend an extra night in Poincenot after catching the crazy sunrise show on the Fitz Roy needles.) Day 3. Dawn at Laguna de los Tres. Brace yourself for a stunning light show on the face of Cerro Fitz Roy and its range. Head out around 6 a.m. (check sunrise times in town before you go) with a headlamp. Hoof it about an hour to the viewpoint. It’s straight uphill and you’ll be sweating on the way up, so don’t overdress when you leave your tent at dawn. Bring plenty to keep you warm once you’ve stopped and are waiting for the sunshine to light up the granite faces at top. Bring your hat, gloves, extra jackets, maybe even your sleeping bag, and most definitely a thermos full of your favorite hot drink (or a stove to boil water). Once you reach Fitz Roy’s main viewpoint, the hill slopes down and around to another hillock, with views of Laguna Sucia from above. Don’t miss out on this part of the trek (a lot of people do). Laguna Sucia is one of the most mindblowing crisp blues you’ll ever see, guaranteed. It’s also a good way to warm you up again while waiting for the sun’s rays to reach Fitz Roy. After the sunrise, head back to camp, gather up your gear and hike the Madre e Hija Trail to Camping de Agostini, where you’ll sleep alongside rushing Rio Fitz Roy. Alternatively, plan to take it easy, and stay another night at Poincenot. It’s free, after all, so if you don’t have any time constraints, just kick back and enjoy. You can still do a couple of mini-treks from Poincenot. Walk to Piedras Blancas if you haven’t already. Or, on your way back from a stupendous sunrise, follow Río Blanco to your right (opposite direction from Piedras Blancas). This is not really a trail, but once you reach the river and before you cross the footbridge, trace the river’s edge heading right to reach the base of Laguna Sucia. From here,
you’ll glimpse Sucia’s glacier, from below this time. Witness the explosions of icemelt cascade into the lake. You’ll likely get to savor this view all by your lonesome. The excursion will add about two hours to your morning. If you are a little pressed for time and decide to head to De Agostini, you’ll have to miss out on the foot of Laguna Sucia, which is fine as long as you’ve seen its epic blue from above at the Fitz Roy lookout. Once you arrive to De Agostini and set up camp, venture out to visit Lago Torre. It’s just another 10 minutes to the lookout. You’ll see Cerro Torre from the trail on the way to De Agostini, but the view from the lake is a little more complete, with glacier and all. If you follow the sloped ridge on the right of the lake, you’ll see Glacier Torre up close, from above. It’s a lovely wind tunnel of a walk that takes about two hours there and back. Day 4. Back to Chaltén. From Agostini, enjoy a mostly flat and downhill stroll back to Chaltén, where you can shower at a hostel, catch your bus back to Calafate and your next adventure, or recoup for another day or two out on the trail. Lago Toro or Lago del Desierto are both good options with camping to extend your trip a bit. If you’re not ready to commit to more nights camping, settle for another long full day (about 8 hours) hike to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, with panoramic views of the entire valley, Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Glacier Viedma. Environmental notes. Fires are not allowed in Parque Los Glaciares, so be sure you bring a stove and sufficient gas. Water is potable everywhere, except for Laguna Capri (and you wonít be camping there if you follow this guide). Pack it in, pack it out! Be sure to take all trash out with you. Do not throw your garbage into the latrines!
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Bariloche
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Bariloche, Argentina POPULATION: 150,000 WHAT’S GROOVY: Parque Municipal Llao Llao, eXtremo Sur (Morales 765) for kayaking, Carol Jones (M.Victoria 5600) for guided horse tours JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (ambulance)
questions & answers How did Bariloche get its name? Bariloche interestingly enough got its name from a typo. At the end of the 19th century an English pioneer of the Nahuel Huapi area, Enrique Paterson, wrote a letter to a settler of the southeast sector of Nahuel Huapi, Carlos Wiederhold Piwonka. Paterson mistakenly referred to Mr. Piwonka as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos (Don being a polite way to refer to an owner of property or a company, and San, referring to a saint.). The name not only was a compliment to Mr. Piwonka but it also stuck as the area’s name. On July 26, 1927 the name was officially decreed the title of Bariloche. When is fishing season? The Limay River, one of the largest rivers in the area, drains into Nahuel Huapi. It is the best body of water for catching big fish. This eastern flowing river is notorious for large rainbow trout in November and December and large brown trout in March and April.
San Carlos de Bariloche is Argentina’s gateway to Patagonia. The city’s name originated from a typo on a letter addressing a major English settler of the area as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos. Despite the error, the name stuck. The city center is an eclectic mix of shops, chocolate stores, lodging, lively bars and packed dance clubs. Beyond the center, you’ll catch views ranked by National Geographic as some of the ‘worlds’ best.’ Feast your eyes on the hand-carved log and stone architecture and the lake and mountains beyond it. The area’s main attraction, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, features a ton of easily accessible trails. Created in 1934, the Park boasts rugged
Approximately 15 minutes.
number 30, kiddy-corner from the YPF gas station has the maps and information you are looking for.
What is the usual ski season?
Can I hike year-round?
The ski season typically runs from mid-June to mid-October.
Yes, the lower elevation trails are generally free of snow all year. The higher elevation trails are available from November to May.
How far is the airport from the city center?
Where do the boat cruises leave from? From Puerto Pañuelo, 25 km west of town, across from the Llao Llao Hotel. Can I drink the water? Absolutely! It may be the best you ever tasted. How many people live here? There are between 85,000 and 150,000 full-time residents, depending on who you ask. How far is El Bolsón from here? El Bolsón is about an hour and a half south. It’s a gorgeous drive and well worth the trip if you have an extra day or two. How far is it to the Chilean border? The Chilean border is about two hours away by car, traveling through Villa La Angostura. How do I communicate with the world?
How can I check airline status?
Look for a locutorio, many have both internet and telephone booths available.
Go to www.aa2000.com.ar to find out if your plane is on time.
Where can I change money?
Where can I get the best steak? El Boliche de Alberto is Bariloche’s “it” place for succulent steak. There are three locations, the restaurant at Bustillo kilometer 8 having the best reputation.
mountains, such as Mount Tronador, flourishing Valdivian rainforests and the windblown steppe. From day hikes to expeditions, visitors can enjoy every style of mountaineering and trekking. The single tracks lead to manned huts offering beds, hot meals and, sometimes, home-brewed beers. Check with Club Andino for maps, trail conditions and other inquiries. Bariloche is also home to South America’s largest ski area, Catedral. A small village in itself, Catedral offers over 30 chair lifts, 120 kilometers (74 miles) of groomed runs and 1,200 hectares (2,965 acres) of skiable terrain. Catedral’s base area is also a summer activity center with mountain biking, hiking and outdoor concerts.
There is a casa de cambio on Avenida Mitre, one block from the Centro Civico. Where can I find a good trail map and information on the hiking trails? Club Andino, on the corner of 20 de Febrero,
What’s up with the siesta? Argentines need to catch up on their sleep. With dinner starting around 10 p.m., it is safe to say the Argentines are night owls. Stores in el centro are more apt to stay open during the day. Grocery stores and locutorios tend not to go on siesta. Normal siesta hours are from 12:30 to 4:30 (give or take a half hour). Do I need a reservation for the refugios (mountain huts)? No, but they are on a first-come, first-serve basis. Is it worth renting a car? Absolutely. Many of the treasures of the area are not accessible by bus. Also with the freedom of a car you can come and go as you like. Is there a monster en Lago Nahuel Huapi? Yes, the Lochness monster’s distant relative, Nahuelito, lives in the lake, but he is very friendly. What are they looking for at the traffic stops? We aren’t sure, but we have found that the less Spanish you speak, the better. What’s with all large groups in matching outfits? It’s the latest thing, grab a few friends, start a team and pick your own colors. No, seriously. Bariloche
is a hot spot for graduating classes to come and celebrate their new-found freedom. They come in huge groups and all wear the same rented outfits as kind of a rah-rah thing. The Brazilians do the same thing in the winter. What’s with all the Saint Bernards and their owners? These guys sell you the right to take a picture of their dog. Beware though. If you take a picture of the canine without paying for it, chaos may ensue. Where should I go to get the best sandwich? Morfy’s, side street next to the civic center. Where can I find the best ice cream? There’s a rainbow of ice cream shops in the area, but Jujua is hands down the favorite. Find them in the city center, in the kilometers as well as in El Bolsón,Villa La Angostura and San Martín. What year did the first car show up in Bariloche? The first car made its way to Bariloche in 1910. It was a Mercedes Benz and was known as the “car of the government” due to its famous passengers. A Ford T was brought in a bit later. When did the Bariloche’s chocolate fascination begin? The first chocolate store was created on the corner of Mitre and Beschtedt in 1928. The Swiss pioneer, Carlos Triberholn, is the grandfather of South America’s best chocolate.
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Adrenaline!
Get your fix in Bariloche. Making and Breaking Camp In Patagonia, most likely all your camping will be at campsites, as camping offtrail is often illegal. Finding privacy may be difficult, so earplugs are a good option. If you do find yourself in a place with the opportunity to free-camp outside of the designated spots, camp on hard, durable surfaces, like rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Be sure you camp at least 50 meters away from any water sources, like lakes, rivers or streams. Remember that good campsites are found, not made. It’s not necessary to alter a site. If there is an existing fire ring at your campsite, DO NOT BUILD ANOTHER ONE. Campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Use a lightweight stove for cooking. For light, candle lanterns work great. Leave nature the way you found it, so that others may enjoy it as well. This means that what you pack in, you also pack out. It means you dispose of waste properly, digging 6-8inch deep catholes at least 200 feet away from water, camp and trails. Pack out toilet paper and feminine hygiene products. DO NOT WASH DISHES IN YOUR WATER SOURCE. Collect water and carry it away from its source to do your washing, and use biodegradable soap. When it’s time to break camp and move on, make sure you don’t forget anything. Once the backpacks are packed and the tents are stowed, everyone should make a sweep of the camp, looking for anything left behind, like binoculars hanging in the tree or small trash, like a small ripped corner of a candy bar. Check where the packs were and where the kitchen was. Don’t be afraid to pick up a piece of garbage that wasn’t yours. Leave the campsite the way you would want to find it if you were camping there next. Replace any rocks or large, natural pieces of wood you might have moved. Then, ask yourself some questions. How can I reduce my impact? Was it obvious were the tent was? Was vegetation crushed permanently, or will it pop up again easily. Is there any micro-trash left to be picked up? Did I create any new and unnecessary trails? Examining your camp before you leave it, is a great way to see how you can do it better next time.
By Shanie Matthews
AAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
C a b a l g at a s C a r o l Jo n e s Authentic Horseback Riding in Bariloche, Patagonia
Bariloche is an active person’s playground. Just for starters there are manicured hiking trails, great mountain biking and fabulous rock climbing. But there are some less talked about adventure activities that make living and visiting here that much better. Here are seven favorites that will leave adrenaline junkies yearning for more: 1. Scuba Diving: An activity not found in many lakes around South America, scuba diving is a delight because of the clear, vibrant water of Lago Nahuel Huapi. The depths of the lake are sprinkled with antique treasures, descending cliffs and flourishing schools of trout. There are different adventures available; a half day excursion around Gallinas Island, a nighttime swim around the San Miguel ship wreck, or visit the underwater forests of Lago Traful. The season starts in November and finishes off in April.The age requirement is ten years old. Suits and tanks are available for rental. 2. Canopy Tours: There are a few different canopy companies but the most popular is Canopy Adventure Tour. Located off the Circuito Chico, the owner has taken his acres of land and made a great course among the tops of old growth Lenga trees. It boasts to have the longest flying span between two trees in the world. The entire route is 1.5 km long. The company also offers trips during the winter. In the summer they offer full moon excursions with pizza and local beer. The tour includes a picturesque drive up to the flight platforms via a windy 4×4 road. 3. River rafting: Located outside of Bariloche is the emerald-green Rio Manso. There are various companies in town offering the full range of white water adventure. The final destination can either finish in Argentina or Chile. Border patrol and a new stamp in the passport is definitely a unique end to an exciting river trip. Many of the companies also offer an authentic asado (Argentine-style BBQ) upon completion of the trip. 4. Paragliding: There are different paragliding spots around Bariloche, the most popular being off the top of Cerro Otto. Other options are Cerro Catedral and Piltriquitron, outside of El Bolsón. There is a guide service that flies from a platform located near the rotating restaurant and observation deck of Cerro Otto. The three ways to access the summit of Otto are by gondola, dirt road or steep single track trail. There is chairlift access to the top of Catedral.
Massage Therapist Bariloche Jamie Schectman, CMT
Tel: (02944) 448-750 adiostahoe@gmail.com
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5. Kayaking: Lago Nahuel Huapi is a gigantic lake with multiple arms, a shoreline that is people free and a dotting of islands to keep it interesting. The majority of the time the expanse of water is free of boats. The open water, remote beaches, and pristine environment offer ocean kayakers an experience of a lifetime. Guided multiday kayaking adventures take you into private bays, to the base of mountain waterfalls and to parts of the Andes that not many people have visited. There is also guided river kayaking trips. The river kayaking is mainly located in two rivers, the Manso and Foyel. Boating is navigable year-round with rapids up to grade four. 6. Kitesurfing: Kitesurfing on Lago Nahuel Huapi is an excellent idea here in Bariloche because of the hefty winds that steadily blow. Kitebeach Bariloche has formed a professional company that takes advantage of the strong winds creating good waves and lofty flying possibilities. They offer one hour classes with certified instructors. Included in the price is equipment and wetsuits. 7. Bungee Jumping: Imagine springing off of the bridge over Nirihuau River with nothing but the wind in your face and the intense Patagonian nature as your backdrop. Adventure guide company, Let’s Jump Bungee Jumping, takes you on certified, all-equipment-included flying affairs. It is safe to say between these seven adventure activities and normal sports like skiing, hiking, biking, and climbing, Bariloche has excitement possibilities covered. Now the only problem is deciding where to play. Here are some tour agencies who can help you plan your adventure... A.S.A.P Diving Center Chaura 455, Barrio Jardín Botánico Phone: (02944) 42 7088 Arum Co Scuba Diving School Av. Bustillo km 8 Phone: (02944)52 3122/52 0977/cel 15604306 arumcobuceo@bariloche.com.ar www.arumcobuceo.com.ar A.S.A.P Diving School Mitre 171, Local 17 Phone: 42 7088 Canopy Adventure Travel Colonia Suiza, Cerro López Phone: (02944)40 0286/cel 15607191 canopy@canopybariloche.com www.canopybariloche.com Extremo Sur Morales 765 Casilla de Correo 1433 Phone/Fax: (2944) 42 7301 www.extremosur.com Pura Vida Patagonia Kayak Touring Phone: (02944) 44 8793/15 414053 info@puravidapatagonia.com.ar Kitesurf Phone: (02944) 1553 KITE (5483) kitesurf@bariloche.com.ar Let’s Jump Bungee Jumping Mandisovi 72 Phone: 15 600 523
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Pucón
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Pucón, Chile horseback riding or mountain biking, you’ll get your fill of thrills. Visit the Mapuche Museum on Caupolicán and learn about the culture of the indigenuos people. Take a cruise on Villarrica Lake aboard a steam-powered vessel, or just relax on one of the many black sand beaches. Shop for locally made handicrafts, and dine in one of more than 50 local restaurants, before ending the day with a long soak in one of the geothermal pools. Pucón also has a great nightlife and is relatively crime-free. The well-lit streets beckon night owls to hit the town after dark to dance the night away, or try their luck at the craps tables in the casino.
Do I need a permit to camp in the Park? No, there’s no camping fee, but it’s restricted around the volcano. Remember, it is an active volcano! Is transportation to the trailheads available?
Mapuche, and they are very proud of their heritage. They really gave the Spanish a run for their money back in the day.
If you use a guide, tranportation is included, but taxis can get you there, too. It’s about $5 USD to go by taxi to the park entrance.
Are there hostels close to the bus station?
Can I drink the water in the Park without treating it?
Plenty, with some great views of the volcano, just ask around about where to go. When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano? All year round, but winter is the best time if you want smaller crowds. Is the volcano active? You bet, it’s smoking 24-7, not unlike some people we know, but that is a good thing. It means the volcano is venting. If it stops smoking, then it’s time to start worrying.
There are three runs, the most exciting being the upper Río Trancura, with class III and IV rapids, depending on the time of the season. The lower Trancura is tamer but still class II-III in most places. You can also do a longer trip of a couple days on Bío Bío through various companies in town.
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What else can I do around here? Aside from visiting the Volcano and rafting, you can enjoy the amazing scenery on horseback, paragliding, or parachuting. Fly fishing is also very popular here, and you can book boat fishing tours. Keep in mind that all fishing is catch and release.
Iglesia Jesus de Nazaret
Your waiter would appreciate a 10% tip, if you’re happy with the service. The kid who bags your groceries at the market works solely on tips. And don’t forget to tip your guide if you have enjoyed a particularly good excursion. Most taxis would be happy to accept any small change left over from the transaction as well. Where is the closest airport?
What options are there for public transport?
Yep, it’s about $8 bucks.
Buses between the nearby town of Villarrica and
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Who should I be tipping here?
Is there an entrance fee to the Park?
Can I get a good map of the trails in Villarrica National Park?
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It all depends on the weather and amount of rainfall, but generally speaking, the season is from late September to early April. For the upper Trancura, you’ll have to wait till around December. And remember during the height of the season (about December-February), the rapids can get pretty crowded.
There are maps in town for just a few bucks. Check the corner of O’Higgins and Ansorena.
In 1984, but that was nothing major. The time before that was 1974, and 24 people were killed.
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When’s the best time to go rafting?
During January and February, Lan and Sky Airlines fly direct to the Pucón airport. Booking online has been problematic in the past, especially with a foreign credit card.You’re better off booking your flight locally at one of the carriers’ offices. Alternatively, you can fly to and from the international airport in Temuco, about two hours away from Pucón, by bus.
When was the last time it erupted?
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Are there any good day hikes in the area?
Where is the best white water rafting?
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Super chill. It’s a great scene for winter sports with fewer crowds, and it’s such an incredible experience to ski or board on an active volcano.
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What is the winter like?
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Most outfitters have everything you need for the activity you want to participate in, and the gear is usually included.
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Can I rent gear in town?
In case of a backcountry emergency, contact the Carbiñeros de Chile. They will organize the 50 or more guides, who live in Pucón and are always ready to lend a hand to their fellow outdoor enthusiasts.
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Absolutely, there are numerous bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.
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Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area?
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Is there a night life in Pucón?
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There is a nine-hole course on the peninsula, and you can rent a set of clubs in town.
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Is there a golf course nearby?
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Just a few blocks from the center, you can soak up all the UV you want, just don’t forget the SPF!
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Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?
Yep! Enjoy the experience.
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Pucón has a small hospital with an X-ray machine, and there are a few dentists to choose from. Anything serious is treated in Temuco, about an hour and a half away by car.
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What if I need a doctor or dentist?
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You can’t pitch a cat without hitting a hostel in Pucón.
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What are the local indigenous people called?
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questions & answers
Pucón, a quaint town built in the style of a German village, has something for everyone, from the thrill seeking adrenaline junkie to the couple looking for a romantic getaway. Along with things to see and do, you’ll find accommodation for all budgets, but hop online and book early, because most places fill up fast during the summer months. Pucón explodes with life during the summer months (OctoberMarch), when sunny days, green forests and blue skies, along with the alwaysactive Villarrica Volcano lure the masses. Whether you are looking for a guided ascent of the volcano, trekking in the Villarrica National Park, rafting or kayaking the Class III and IV rapids of the Trancura River, or an afternoon
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POPULATION: 21,000 FOUNDED: 1883 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hotsprings, lots to choose from on the main drag. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
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Pucón run every 15 minutes through Buses Jac. Buses from Puerto Montt run four times a day, and from Temuco, every half hour. Taxis and colectivos are available all over town. But, if you want to get off the beaten path or have a time constraint and Good People, Handmade Organic Food and Real Coffee
want to see some more in less time, rent a car. There are a couple of car rental options on Colo Colo Street.You can also rent a bike for about 10 bucks a day.
El Barroso
Fresia 135a Pucon, Chile organic food, wine and real italian coffee Corner of O’Higgins & Fresia, Pucón • trawen@gmail.com
Wood Fire Grilled Steaks Chilean Wines
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Puerto Varas, Chile
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In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.
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Maipo 1010, Puerto Varas, Chile Phone: 65-232880 www.interpatagonia.com/carlaminte
How can I get around without a car?
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There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all.
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What kind of wildlife can I see in the park?
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There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla.
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What else is there to do?
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Are there any good day hikes in the area? Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few.
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That is Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m).
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What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?
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Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout.
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How should I dress for the climate?
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How is the fishing in this area?
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What’s the nightlife like? There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season. Not to mention, the casino where you will have a chance to part with all your travel money, or if you’re lucky, win enough to pay for the whole trip.
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In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.
There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people. In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather.
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Where can I stay without breaking the bank?
Will I have any problems with drinking water or food?
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If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD. In Puerto Montt, you’ll catch one of the buses to Puerto Varas.
The lake is Llanquihue, and it is pronounced as “Yawn-key-way.”
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How do I get to Puerto Varas?
Puerto Varas
How do you pronounce the name of the lake?
Mo ntt
Puerto Varas
iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.
Flo ri
questions & answers
Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the
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POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
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Puerto Montt Is Puerto Montt safe?
Caleta de Angelmo, home to a variety of handmade items, including wool sweaters, alpaca clothing, and leather items.
For the most part, Pto. Montt is a quiet city with few incidents of urban violence, but be smart and leave the bling-bling at home and use the buddy system when heading out to enjoy the night life.
Can I take a tour by boat?
Can I use my travelers checks or ATM card?
Where can I get the best seafood?
You bet. Travelers checks are a good way to go and can be cashed at all the banks. ATM cards are another option, since most banks have a machine on the Cirrus network and make the currency exchange for you automatically.
You’ll find a variety of restaurants in the area of Caleta de Angelmo with great seafood selections at reasonable prices.
What times of the day are the shops and restaurants open? Most shops are open Monday-Friday from 09:00 to 13:30 and then close for lunch until about 15:00, and then remain open again until around 19:00. Saturdays, from 09:00 to 13:00. Banks are open Monday-Friday, 09:00 to 14:00. Where can I buy handicrafts? About 2 km. from the city center, you will find
Sure, you can visit an island nature preserve in the area of Caleta de Angelmo. Just ask around near the Navimag dock for times and prices.
What about calling abroad or home? There are call centers throughout the city where they have internet and the city has a public phone network that enables you to make local and international phone calls with coins and special phone cards. Also, most hotels, for a surcharge, will let you make international calls. Who do I contact in case of an emergency? You can find the police station at Guillermo Gallardo 519, or dial 133. To call an ambulance, dial 131.
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Penguin Experts 5% off tours to Magdalena & Marta Islands! Jose Nogueira 1255, Punta Arenas, Chile • www.soloexpediciones.com
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Cochamó.
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escaladores de todo el mundo como el “Yosemite Chileno”, por su similitud con aquella locación de Estados Unidos. Las rutas de trekking también ofrecen una variedad de circuitos que nos llevan por bosque milenarios de Alerce (fitzroya cupressoide), atravesando cursos de aguas prístinas que bajan de los Andes y que permiten refrescarnos en los días de calor. Se pueden realizar viajes que van desde algunas horas de caminata, hasta expediciones de 8 días que recorren los más bellos bosques y valles de la zona. Las mismas rutas que se recorren caminando, pueden ser cabalgadas, siendo la forma de trasladarse más importante desde el mar hasta la cordillera, y el que ha posibilitado la conexión de esta zona con Argentina y el resto de Chile. Hoy es un medio de trasporte para los visitantes también, y aun cumple la importante misión de llevar a los lugareños y ayudarlos en la vida diaria. El fly fishing ó pesca deportiva es otra actividad importante. Los innumerables cursos de agua que bajan de la cordillera a juntarse con el fiordo, crean el ambiente ideal para el desarrollo de especies como truchas y salmones. Destacan los ríos Puelo, Manso, Cochamó, Traidor y las Lagunas Sin Nombre, Candelaria, y Laguna Brava, en el sector de Paso el León.Los mismos recursos hídricos que
permiten pescar, se pueden recorrer en kayak de mar, destacando las excursiones por los Lagos TaguaTagua, Azul, Las Rocas, y la expedición de varios días que propone bajar el Río Puelo desde su nacimiento en Argentina, hasta la desembocadura en el Estuario de Reloncaví. Para la práctica del mountainbike, lo más recomendado es el circuito que va desde la localidad de Llanada Grande al Lago Azul, que se cruza en bote a motor hasta su extremo sur, para continuar por el sendero que va al Lago Las Rocas, donde comenzamos a devolvernos, esta vez siguiendo la senda junto al Río Puelo. Para los más tranquilos, está la opción de navegar por el Estuario en bote a motor y visitar las loberías de la Isla Mari Meli, o conocer las Termas de Sotomó y disfrutar un curanto preparado a la manera tradicional. Finalmente, las opciones para comer y dormir que ofrece Cochamó son diversas, destacando la atención personalizada, de primer nivel y con calor de hogar, las comidas preparadas con cariño e ingredientes típicos de la zona, las que son ideales para reponer energías luego de cada jornada de actividades al aire libre por el territorio de Cochamó.
What if all you had to do was click your heels three times to be here?
C
ochamó es un hermoso territorio donde la Cordillera de los Andes se une con el mar pacífico formando el Estuario de Reloncaví, primer fiordo de la Patagonia Chilena. Cuenta con innumerables lagos, ríos, montañas y valles que permiten recorrer esta extraordinaria región a caballo, caminando, en bicicleta o kayak de mar. A sólo 90 kilómetros de Puerto Varas, la comuna de Cochamó está rodeada por 7 Parque Nacionales entre Chile y Argentina, por lo que el año 2006 es declarada por Sernatur como zona
de interés turístico y al año siguiente, Reserva de la Biosfera por la ONU. Posee 2 pasos fronterizos habilitados todo el año, a los cuales se puede acceder caminando, cabalgando o navegando. Esta situación geográfica genera una gran conectividad con las turísticas ciudades Argentinas de Bariloche y El Bolsón. Dentro de las actividades que se pueden realizar en el Valle de Cochamó, destaca la escalada en roca, la que es posible practicar en un impresionante cordón montañoso de granito, ubicado en el sector de La Junta, el cual está siendo conocido por los
What’s missing in this picture? You.
Ristorante Italiano FIND MORE THAN A GOOD HOSTEL!
Italian cuisine at the bottom of the world. Puerto Montt, Chile Calle Rengifo 815 • (65) 282812 Puerto Varas, Chile Av. Costanera, Puerto Chico • (65) 310583
www.dalessandro.cl
Great location - tips & travel info Airport Service – Internet WI-FI - Kitchen Facilities
Don’t forget to book in advance!
Phone/fax: 65-232044 Mobile: (9)-76486787 info@compassdelsur.cl www.compassdelsur.cl Klenner 467 Puerto Varas – Lake District
November.08
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The Independent Republic of Magallanes? By Sarah Anderson Flag of the XII Region of Magallanes & Antártica Chilena. (The blue represents the night sky, yellow is for the steppe, or pampa, and white for the snow-covered peaks. The stars are the Southern Cross, or Cruz del Sur.)
Mandala Andino
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phone 56 61 414143 • mandalaandino@yahoo.com • Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile
Y
ou may not be aware of it, but for many locals you are no longer in Chile. You are in the Independent Republic of Magallanes. Many travelers will have noticed the attractive Magallanes flag on jackets and bags, on local produce, painted on houses, hung outside public buildings and, of course, on the ubiquitous car sticker. Magallanes is still part of Chile but it is one of only two regions (Atacama being the other) that has its own flag. This flag was officially adopted in September 1996 as well as a coat of arms, a rosette, and a regional hymn. The ñirre tree, the calafate flower and the ñandu were also chosen as symbols to represent the region. Although the flag is flown most days in public places and buildings, it must be officially flown on September 21 (when the Strait of Magellan was claimed by Chile in 1843), September 29 (when Patagonia was incorporated into Chile in 1554) and on the Regional Day celebrated on October 21. So why is there a regional flag? Is there a serious separatist movement among the rebellious Magallanicos? The flag is hugely popular with the people of Magallanes, but perhaps it is more a representation of regional pride rather than a symbol of regionalist separatism. Interestingly the Facebook group “Republica Independiente de Magallanes,” with more than 5,000 members, appears to be a mainly nostalgic site for Magallanicos now living elsewhere, rather than a hotbed of activism. When asked, friends and acquaintances from the region unanimously declared themselves to be first and foremost Magallanicos. There is definitely a regionalist spirit with which most locals
identify. During the Pinochet era the region was kept in geographical and communicational isolation, and this helped to create a distinct identity. Another factor is the proximity of Argentina and the fact that Magallanes shares many more cultural similarities with the neighboring region of Santa Cruz than with the rest of Chile. Many Magallanicos feel that the region has been ignored by the decision makers in Santiago (although perhaps many other regions watching the daily news will share this sentiment). Flights to the region are the most expensive in continental Chile, and the goods and petrol/gas are the most costly. Magallanicos, many descended from immigrants from all over the world, have worked hard to create what is one of the most prosperous regions in Chile and they rightly feel proud of this achievement and somewhat slighted by the nortinos (northerners) who laugh at their sing-song way of speaking and funny expressions. Magallanicos are well-known for their solidarity with others, whether this is a gringo with a flat tire or a gaucho hitching to his estancia. This solidarity can be seen at its best in November when the region will engage in a massive fundraising frenzy to raise money for the local rehabilitation centers in Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. So a separate republic seems unlikely in the near future, but without a doubt the flag will continue to be flown and seen not only throughout Chile, but also--by judging from how popular it is with tourists--all over the world.
Free Information and Equipment Seminar 3 p.m. every day • Puerto Natales, Chile All welcome. Come grab a cup of real coffee and join the erratic rock team at 3 p.m. every day for a 1-hour, no-nonsense information session about trekking in Torres del Paine, equipment needs, packing for the trail, adventure options, meal preparation and anything else you need to know. All directly from the local guides. Completion of seminar earns you 10% off all rental gear and a smile.
erratic rock patagonia baquedano 719 puerto natales, chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 410355
hostels • equipment • information • guides