ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE
September 2008
Volume 4 • Issue 1 • September 2008 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • Cover image by Gregg Treinish
Black
FREE
Sheep YOUR
Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Information Magazine
Planning ahead:
Patagonia’s Gringo Trail Pucón Bariloche Puerto Varas Calafate & Chaltén Puerto Natales Torres del Paine Punta Arenas Tierra del Fuego
MIND
®
Patagonia Trekking Tips Questions & Answers: City by City
Planet Patagonia pg 10,11
The Green Pages
¡Avisen con nosotros!
pg 2
September.08
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
About Black Sheep
W
e are a grass roots travel magazine, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language mag. We publish eight issues per year, coinciding with Patagonia’s high season, from September to April. Our web site community, with up-to-the-minute info, gives travelers a space to share their experiences. We are expats and locals. We are travelers, and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help them plan their adventures to the bottom of the world. We are backpackers, and we believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We believe in unguided adventure. We sleep in tents, and we camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We hitchhike. We recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being a part of the solution, not the problem. We believe that reggae music can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open & free for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe YOU can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe deep breaths outside. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe what you pack in, you pack out. We believe travel is about experience, culture, living like the locals, respecting Pachamama, and going home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe that backpackers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. Black Sheep is a bridge between advertiser and traveler. We search out the hip and reputable tour operators, lodging, restaurants, handicrafts, outdoor stores, and mom & pop shops. Businesses that we think are especially groovy merit our stamp of approval, which means they... • Love the environment and practice eco-friendliness in their business • Are locally owned • Give back to the community • Offer something free to customers and quality service The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers. We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.
- Rustyn Mesdag, publisher
In the past few years I have seen the Black Sheep grow from a small, one-town newspaper into a larger group effort that now covers all of Patagonia. What started simple, is now much more complex. The original idea was to get all the basic info into one paper. Now, the entire Black Sheep team has helped define a bigger purpose. Aside from the maps and bus times (which are now permanent fixtures in the paper) there is something more. Much more than what you can find in the guidebooks. When coming to a place like Patagonia, you probably want to use your time well.We want to make sure you’re not wasting time hunting down basic info that should just be common knowledge. As travelers, we want to do and see all the main attractions, but the fact that they are called ‘attractions’ starts to feel a little typical. We want more from our vacation, more than what we Google or find in a Lonely Planet. Even in our nervousness, we remain open for some great, lifechanging moment, or to hear a story so incredible that we will tell (and retell) the tale for the rest of our lives. Nowhere in a Lonely Planet or Footprint have I ever seen a chapter named ‘Secret Life-Changing Things to Do.’ But such things do exsist. They’re everywhere. Just not in the guidebooks. The problem is that it’s too hard to find out what those secret life-changing things to do are, especially when you’re just passing through an area during your travels. The most amazing things to do in any paticular area are generally only done (and known) by the locals. Black Sheep has become a sort of bulletin board, full of life-changing listings, created by locals. The paper was started by travelers, not by investers or bankers. It was started by people who had no idea how to run a magazine, but we tried it anyway. We did it to help our fellow travelers go home with something
more than a stuffed penguin and a bumpersticker. We wanted not only to help with questions and answers, but also to give folks a fair shot at going home with something special. Seemed like a simple enough idea, though a bit harder in practice. Then something amazing happened. Other travelers started coming out of the woodwork. Foreigners that had chosen to settle permanently in Patagonia started contacting us with stories and information, the hidden secrets of thier respective new homes. All of a sudden, a team pulled together for a single purpose: to share all we have learned by living abroad. In every city that Black Sheep covers, we have professional travelers, slackers, guides, ex-pats, writers and hippies living life to the fullest and letting everyone in on the shortcuts and the best info around. So Black Sheep is now covering an area that can be seen from space. Pretty impressive for a bunch of fun-seekers living abroad. If it’s hip, we’re on it: from Pucón to Isla Navarino, from five-star hotels to hippy crashpads. We’re here to share all the things we would have loved to know when we first decided to settle down in Patagonia. You are no different than us. As you journey down to the bottom of the world, you have just as much of a chance to stumble across a rare opportunity or meet someone with such an incredible story, that you can’t believe no one has ever heard it before. You may take a photograph that captures a moment in time that can’t be duplicated. Or you might have a great moment of inspiration that’s just begging to be shared. So share it. We’re calling out to all you like-minded travelers to spread your inspiration. Your story may be the story that inspires someone else to alter their trip, opening a door to something that may just change their life forever. If you think you can be a part of the Black Sheep collective, contact us directly at editor@patagoniabalcksheep.com.
- Pilar Irribarra, directora
Publisher:
Bariloche, Argentina:
Rustyn Mesdag
Jamie Schectman adiostahoe@gmail.com Shanie Matthews shanie@shaniematthews.com
editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
Director: Pilar Irribarra sales@patagoniablacksheep.com
Editor: Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
Graphic Design: Leslie Venti leslie.venti@gmail.com
Punta Arenas, Chile: Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com
Puerto Natales, Chile: Carolina “C.J.” Wilson cjwilson07@gmail.com
Pucón & Pto. Varas, Chile:
Calafate, Argentina: Maria Fourcade negrafourcade@hotmail.com Federico Fourcade pod_smolik@hotmail.com
Distribution: Mauricio Cortez Patricio Alderete
Special Thanks: Bill Penhollow Lael Grant Isabel Chamorro Patricio Achurra erratic rock Kanelo
Cover Image: Gregg Treinish
Anthony Riggs anthony@patagoniablacksheep.com
© 2008 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine may not be reproduced in whole or in part without consent of the copyright owner. Black Sheep design is a registered trademark. Published by Southern Cross, Ltda. Printed in Chile.
Comienza una nueva temporada de ediciones de Black Sheep. El invierno nos ha dado el descanso y la energía suficiente para comenzar renovados, con nuevas secciones y mejores contenidos. Un gran equipo nos da vida y mantiene las páginas de Pucón, Puerto Varas, Bariloche, Puerto Natales, Calafate-Chaltén y Punta Arenas. Toda la información es “fresquita” cada dato que encuentras en Black Sheep está pensada por viajeros para los viajeros, así que te invitamos a confiar plenamente y ha dejarte guiar por nosotros. Como directora de este medio, me enorgullese enormemente que este año dediquemos con más fuerza que nunca, un importante número de páginas para ayudar a tomar conciencia con el cuidado y protección del medio ambiente. “The Green Pages” / “Las Páginas Verdes” y “Planet Patagonia” / “Planeta Patagonia,” son el nombre de las secciones que buscan orientar al visitante y los habitantes de nuestra querida Patagonia en sus prácticas cotidianas. La actividad turística se está convirtiendo en uno de los pilares de la economía y va en aumento año a año. Esto, lleva de la mano una gran responsabilidad, ya que en términos ambientales, la hotelería, los restaurantes, el transporte y en general, los servicios turísticos, generan diferentes impactos, como por ejemplo: consumos extras de agua y
energía, aumento de la producción de desechos, aumento de las emision de gases a la atmósfera, etc. La buena noticia es que existen una serie de “buenas prácticas,” útiles y simples de aplicar, pero con sorprendentes resultados y beneficios. En la medida que seamos cada vez más los que vivimos día a día las buenas prácticas, nos estaremos acercando a un desarrollo sustentable de la actividad turística. Black Sheep te llama a cooperar, a ser un activo ciudadano del mundo! Por favor, que no te de lo mismo que en las calles vuelen las bolsas plásticas o que la luz de la habitación quede encendida y la llave del baño corra y corra…y “please” recicla este periódico, leélo, pásalo a un amigo, úsalo para limpiar vidrios o para envolver huevos, pero no lo tires al basurero, sin darle una buena y agotadora existencia. Con estas verdes hojas nos sumamos a las voluntades de diferentes personas, organizaciones e instituciones, que con mucho esfuerzo están siendo la voz de las montañas, los ríos, los bosques, los mares…en toda la Patagonia. Si participas de alguna iniciativa , envíanos información, las páginas de Black Sheep estarán siempre abiertas para difundir y apoyar esta loable tarea. Con estas palabras que espero se traduzcan en acción, he querido dar la bienvenida a los viajeros que valoran y aman la naturaleza. Por ella es que han escogido Patagonia como su destino. ¡¡BIENVENIDOS!!
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Patagonia Bus Schedules Schedules may alter slightly for the winter season. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions. Note: During daylight savings time, there is a time difference between Chile and Argentina.
Chile / Argentina Buses Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas
Buses Ghisoni Ph. 613420 L. Navarro 975
Mon. & Wed. thru Sat. 11.00
Buses Ghisoni Terminal Río Gallegos
Tues. & Thu. thru Sun. 12.00
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Tue., Fri., Sun. 11.30
Buses Pacheco Terminal Río Gallegos
Mon., Wed., Sat. 12.00
Ushuaia - Punta Arenas
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
(via Río Grande) Mon., Wed., Fri. 09.00
Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Tecni Austral Ph. 613422 L. Navarro 975
Tue., Thu., Sat. 07.30
Tecni Austral Roca 157
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas
(via Río Grande) Mon., Thu., Sat. 10.00
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez Ph. 411111 E. Ramírez 399
07.15 09.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00
Buses Fernandez Ph. 221812 A. Sanhueza 745
08.00 09.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00
Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500
07.30 10.00 13.30 19.00
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
08.30 14.00 18.00 19.30
Bus Sur Ph. 411859 Baquedano 668
M-Th.: 07.00 & 15.00 Fri.-Sun.: 07.15 & 19.00
Bus Sur Ph. 614224 José Menéndez 552
Tues-Thur.: 15.00 & 19.00 Fri.-Mon.: 09.15 & 19.00
Puerto Natales - El Calafate
El Calafate - Puerto Natales
Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456
Cootra Terminal de Ómnibus
Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236
Daily 07.30 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00
Zaajh Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.30 M, F & Sun.: 08.00
El Calafate - El Chaltén
El Chaltén - El Calafate
Chaltén Travel Ph. 491833 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.00
Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande
Daily 18.00
CalTur Ph. 491842 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 08.00
CalTur Avenida 520
Daily 15.00
Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus
M, W, F: 17.30
Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande
San
(allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park) El Calafate
5 hrs
TdP Laguna Amarga
2 hrs 30
Punta Arenas
3 hrs
TdP Pudeto
3 hrs 15
Ushuaia
15 hrs
Torres del Paine Admin.
3 hrs 45
Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas (allow time for border crossings) Puerto Natales
3 hrs
Río Gallegos
6 hrs
Río Grande
8 hrs
Ushuaia
13 hrs
Mon., Wed., Fri. 05.30
Martín
T, Th, Sat.: 07.30
El Calafate - Río Gallegos
Río Gallegos - El Calafate
Sportsman Ph. 492680 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 12.30
Sportsman Ph. 442595 Rancho Grande
Daily 20.00
Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 12.00, 14.30
Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande
Daily 12.00, 14.00
Interlagos Ph. 491273 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 04.00
Interlagos Ph. 442080 Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily 13.30
Torres del Paine Buses
Punta Arenas - Ushuaia
Travel Times
Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos
Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales
Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Torres Time Time Puerto Natales 07.30 Laguna Amarga N/A Pudeto N/A Administration N/A
del
Paine – Puerto Natales
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 N/A N/A N/A
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 N/A N/A N/A
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00
Note: At the time of printing, bus schedules could not be firmly pinned down. Bus companies themselves weren’t sure if they would be leaving at 8.00 a.m. or 07.30 a.m., and times are likely to change mid-month. Please check with buses directly for updated information.
September.08
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Punta Arenas, Chile POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward, Isla Magdalena Penguin Colony JUST IN CASE: 244040 (hospital)
questions & answers What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas? Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map. What does Punta Arenas mean? Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C. Why are there ropes on the main square corners? Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street. Where is the bus station? Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent. Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas? Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time… Is there any public transportation? Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver
Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with the Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies much on the petroleum industry. Those
nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive.
interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s natives along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.
Is there a boat to Ushuaia? Yes, a fancy ship called the “Expedition Cruise.” What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?
There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.
To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan.You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.
Can I drink the tap water?
How far is the airport out of town?
Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.
About 20km or 30 minutes.
Does Punta Arenas have a camping?
How much is an airport transfer?
Not at walking distance from the center.
A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles.
How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun! How much do taxis cost? All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos. Where can I change money?
How far is Torres del Paine from here? 4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance. How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas? Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.
What type of day tours are there? You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended). What’s with all the street dogs? Do they bite?
How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia?
Yes, gringos only.
250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.
Depending on snow conditions of course about June-August.You can see the Strait of Magellan from the slopes. About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population. What are my penguin options? 1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway. 2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
punta arenas
Touching the lucky foot of el Indio in Punta Arenas’ main plaza.
When does ski season start?
How many people live here?
www.aonikenk.com
caption caption caption caption caption caption
3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day.
Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent. When are the stores open? Most stores open around 09:30 and close around lunch time between 13:00 and 15:00. On Sundays, most shops are closed, except for the supermarkets.
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
By Katie Woollven
Mario Toledo
Julia Garay
Caupolican
These dogs need your help. For more info: www.chileaustral.com/perros
Quillota
Jorge Montt
O‘Higgins
Magallanes
Lautaro Navarro
Financially, make a donation by visiting their web site (www.chileaustral.com/perros). If you can, stop by in person. La Protectora is located on the outskirts of Punta Arenas on the road to Club Andino at Avenida Circunvalación 1950. You can also help pressure the local government to support the shelter.Write a letter to the editor of La Prensa Austral, the Punta Arenasbased paper, discussing how this issue affects tourism. Draw attention to the issue by speaking with tourist-related businesses, like travel agencies, tourist offices and hostels. This helps raise the awareness of locals, who want happy tourists and a good reputation for their town. Volunteers are always welcome as well. They need help with animal care, cleaning, building maintenance, marketing, and fundraising. To volunteer or make a donation, please contact La Protectora at (56-61) 262607 or perros@ chileaustral.com. For more, visit: www.chileaustral.com/perros.
Sarmiento
Pl. Sampaio
Croacia Bories
Maipu
What can you do to help?
Chiloe
Señoret
Angamos
Armando Sanhueza
“Stay off my lawn!!!” So many characters, so many personalities, so much drama. When they ran alter each other it almost reminded me of summer camp, when I used to Gonder what it would be like to room with Little Orphan Annie. Every day on my way to the hostel smelling like, well… dogshit, I thought about the fact that there are 20,000 stray dogs in Punta Arenas, a city with a human population of about 115,000.The shelter can only help about 150 dogs at a time, so some of the animals I met soon had to be sent away. I thought that working there for my four hours a day would fill me with a sense of giving something back to the community, but it only made me want to give more. The dedication of the employees and other volunteers inspired me, not to mention that it also forced me to practice Spanish.The week was over before I knew it, and I had to say my goodbyes. On the bus back north, I felt overwhelmed by everything I had experienced that week. Working at the shelter was amazing. As for the penguins, I guess I´ll have to see them next time.
Arauco
Mejicana I. Carrera Pinto
Av. Colon
ra ne
ta os .C v A
Jose Menedez Pedro Montt
Waldo Seguel
Roca
Fagnano
Balmaceda Av. Independencia
21 de Mayo
Errazuriz Jose Nogueira
Av. España
hen you ask travelers on the Patagonian trail about Punta Arenas, they´ll probably tell you, “Two days is enough. It was nice to see the penguins, but that´s about all there is to do.” I was there for over a week, and it was the highlight of my trip. Though, I still never got around to seeing the penguins. I was in Puerto Natales gearing up to trek the Torres del Paine circuit, and I found an ad in Black Sheep for volunteers at an animal shelter in Punta Arenas. After two months of traveling, partying, hiking and sight-seeing, I was ready for something different. Why not kick it in Punta Arenas for a week? After the 10-day hike I took a bus south, but forgot to email the shelter that I was on my way. So the next afternoon, when the collectivo taxi left me in a cloud of dust at the edge of town, I was a bit uneasy. I walked up the street where the cab driver had pointed, and followed the sound of 150 dogs. A German Shepard named Ketchup greeted me at the door. Three women looked in a crate at some puppies about the size of my palm. They were busy, but welcoming, and acted as if they had been expecting me. I explained that I had emailed Bruce, the volunteer coordinator, but hadn´t told him what day I would arrive. They said Bruce was on vacation but I was welcome to help out for as long as I wanted. Kati, who was very warm person and obviously dedicated to her work, started talking a mile a minute in Chilean Spanish. I started at her blankly. “¿No entiende? No importa. Mira. Follow me.” She opened the gate to the main yard and immediately a pack of about 40 medium-sized dogs encircled us, barking and jumping all over me. I wondered if I World have to get a rabies shot. “I’m going to get rabies, just my luck,” I thought, and then I tried in my broken Spanish to ask about this: “Who here has rabies?” “Is anyone dangerous?” “No one has a disease?” “¡No bite!” said Kati, wearing her reassuring perma-smile. We continued the tour, she doing her best to explain that injured dogs, new mothers, and small puppies were in the cages; the cats live in a room by themselves; bigger dogs live over there; this is where we make the food. I did my best to keep up. There were a few other local volunteers every day, but not many. I filled water bowls, put fresh newspapers in the enclosures, helped prepare the food and scooped loads of poop. Every time I did anything, curios and excited dogs surrounded me, all trying to earn a little attention. Kati asked me to put flea powder on the chiquititos, and I skipped off to their cage, lingering after I was done while nine tiny puffballs climbed all over me, until all of us were covered in flea powder. I also cleaned the cats´ room, peeking in at the five-day old kittens, and searching for the giant orange cat named Tom, who’d narrowly escaped a fire. Every day on my way to the shelter I had a huge grin on my face, thinking about my new canine friends. They cracked me up! There was a big black three-legged dog I called Hank, who was a very heavy breather, but didn´t really bark. He wagged his tail so much that his body would kind of gyrate and he loved to jump up and put his one front paw on my belly. There was Flaca, a beautiful, regal, greyhound-looking dog that I wanted to put in my mochila and take home. There was Mam’a, a yellow weinie dog who would look up in silent resign as her pups yipped and jumped on her head. There was the blind white dog who always barked in the wrong direction. There was Gramps, who wore a tiny sweater and growled constantly from his corner, like an old man shaking his fist and yelling,
Another way to travel in Patagonia
Av. Bulnes
Volunteering W
Port
Punta Arenas, Chile
Boliviana
HOSTEL Y TURISMO
Jose Menendez 882 Punta Arenas, Chile Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279
JO
S E MENEN D E Z josemenendez@chileaustral.com
www.chileaustral.com/josemenendez
Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 • Punta Arenas • 56-61 241029
remezon@hotmail.com
Comfortable Rooms Fully Equipped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet & Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Coffee Shop José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@gmail.com Punta Arenas, Chile
September.08
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential
questions & answers Torres
del
Paine
What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.
Turquoise and emerald lakes, snow-capped mountains, glaciers, granite spires, world-class trekking, and wildlife viewing make up Torres del Paine. The Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not beckon those looking for the remote. But it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the standard W trek. To venture even further from the beaten track, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. And don’t miss the chance to get close to the
and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran doesn’t start up again until October. The cost will be 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down completely during winter. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season.
How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.
Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios.
How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.
Do I need to tie up my food in the Park?
What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m. Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. What’s the Park entrance fee this month? 8.000 clp (about $16 greenbacks USD). How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs 3.500 to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free. Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas. How much money do I need to bring in the Park with me? 8.000 enterance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 40.000clp. Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town. Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Is it better to trek the park clockwise or counterclockwise? You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better
It’s your call. Mice or foxes might get into your stuff. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you. Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio. Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection. Should I worry about bugs in the Park? You will see bugs on the back circuit if there is no wind and some warmer weather. Bug repellent is a good idea.
icebergs in Lago Grey, or see the amazing National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago, and estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists, starting in the 1890s. Hundreds of truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state. Fires were used to clear the land, and scars are still visible in many areas. As recently as 2005, a fire (accidentally started by a camper) burned for a month, and destroyed over 15,000 hectares of the Park. Patagonian winds often reaches up to 100 km/hr., especially in summer, so wildfire is sure to spread.
What about shopping hours midday? Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except, sometimes, for the supermarkets. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. How much do the taxis cost? 1.000 pesos within city limits. What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.
Do I have to worry about making my reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine?
What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...
Yes. For now, in early season, make sure to talk to the office you bought your ticket at, and speak to the driver - just to be sure. It becomes easier in mid-season.
What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town.
How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.
Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.
Puerto Natales
Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang.
Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco is on of Baquedano and the larger one-stop shop Abu Gosch is on Bulens. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up.
Torres del Paine questions?
Tu publicidad puede estar aquí!!
Escríbenos a sales@patagoniablacksheep.com
A free information seminar is held every day at erratic rock at 3 p.m. Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales.
Torres del Paine Refugio Information Prices are in U.S. dollars* Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 albergue@lastorres.com Los Cuernos is open. Torre Central will open September 2. Chileno will open October 2. Seron will open mid-October. Torre Norte will open November 1. Vertice +56-61 412742 ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Lodge Paine Grande is open. Campamento Perros is closed. Refugio Dickson is closed. Refugio Grey is closed. Breakfast
$10.00
Dorm bed
$40.00
Lunch
$14.00
Campsite
$7.00
Dinner
$18.00
Sleeping bag
$9.00
Full board
$80.00
2-person tent $14.00 Mattress
$3.00
*Prices are approximate and may be slightly higher at some refugios. Note: Schedules often change at the start of the season. Check with the refugio companies directly for the latest info for openings and closures.
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Leave No Trace in Patagonia 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you plan to visit. Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit areas in small groups, or split larger parties into groups of 4-6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging, or marking paint.
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses, or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes and streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary. In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when it’s wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent. In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails.Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.
3. Dispose of Waste Properly Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp, and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.
4. Leave What You Find Preserve the past. Observe, but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts.Leave rocks,plants,and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting nonnative species.Do not build structures or furniture.Don’t dig trenches.
5. Minimize Campfire Impacts Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Remember campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.
6. Respect Wildlife Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance. Never feed the animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviors, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times, such as during mating, nesting, raising young, or during winter.
7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, and yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Don’t yell or be overly noisy. Leave No Trace is a program developed by the U.S. Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the seven principles. For more information, please visit www.nols.edu.
September.08
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
www.aquanativapatagonia.com
Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia
Travel. Discover. Paddle. Live.
The Road Less Traveled
4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY
Freedom in Patagonia By C.J. Wilson
"AQUEDANO
0UERTO .ATALES
torres del paine tested in patagonia
Eberhar d 161 Puer to Natales, Chile ph 414143
New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS From Pudeto
From Refugio Pehoe
October 1 - 15, 2008
12.00
12.30
October 16 - November 15, 2008
12.00 18.00
12.30 18.30
November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009
09.30* 12.00 18.00
10.00* 12.30 18.30
March 16 - 31, 2009
12.00 18.00
12.30 18.30
April 2009
12.00
12.30
Injured on Vacation? Preparation is key in preventing many trekking injuries. Here’s how you can prepare yourself and avoid injuries this season. HYDRATE... Just because it’s cold and wintry, doesn’t mean you can afford to skimp on the water. Water regulates body temperature, helps transport nutrients and removes toxins from muscles, not to mention human’s are 90% water. Start drinking plenty of water the day before your big snow day, trek, or rigorous exercise. Carry a water bottle with you during your winter activities, and remember to drink regularly throughout the day, even when you don’t feel thirsty. Schedule sip breaks if need be.
*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2008 & 01/01/2009.
One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person
Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net
FUEL UP... Winter sports are physically demanding and quickly deplete your body’s energy. Bring snacks that are high in and protein and carbs, such as energy bars, granola, fruits, sandwiches, or chunky soups in a thermos.
Fotografia © 2008 Daniel Bruhin W.
LAYER YOUR CLOTHING...
A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
Some of the magic of being in Patagonia is in getting of the beaten track, which isn’t always easy to do at one of South America’s most popular national parks. Renting a car gives you flexibility that can be priceless. To help keep the cost down, consider getting together with one or two other travelers with similar philosophy and budget. Pile your camping gear in the trunk, and head to the parks of Chiloé or the lesser-known areas of Torres del Paine. Do some research beforehand, to ensure that you can get to where you want to go with 2-wheel drive. Ask around to find out what your camping options are, which can also cut down on costs. Camping away from the most popular places probably means free or less expensive. For example, from Guardería Lago Grey, there is free camping and an unattended refugio less than a mile from the ranger station. From there, you can hike or backpack to the Pingo area, with Mirador Zapata, a little-visited part of the park with completely different views and a waterfall. So, as you consider your traveling options, don’t rule out the possibility of renting a car. You may find that your most memorable experiences are those which take you down the road less-traveled. Note: It is not recommended to cross international borders in a rental car. Leave the border crossings to the tour companies or bus companies to avoid complications.
Not the adventure you are looking for...
2008-2009 Season Schedule
Dates
It never would have occurred to me to rent a car here in Chilean Patagonia. With good public transportation, you can get to most of the best-known parks, tourist highlights, and most towns and villages. So why would you want to rent a car? Well, a rental car can take you to places where buses don’t go, and some of those places are definitely worth a visit. When my dad and his partner visited, we traveled by bus and Navimag to get from Santiago to Puerto Natales. From Puerto Varas, we decided to go to Chiloé to see the penguins. Rather than taking a tour, we rented a car, giving us the flexibility to stop and visit towns a long the way. The rental process was smooth, and we had a great adventure, out on our own in rural Chiloé. (It is possible to see much of Chiloe by bus, but public transport doesn’t go to the pinguinera). We also rented a car in Puerto Natales, which allowed us to take more time to see the Park than the one-day swing through. We went to Laguna Azul, and Cascada Rio Paine, and spent two nights in Río Serrano. This gave us time to enjoy a relaxed trip to Lago Grey with lunch, a hike to Mirador Ferrier, and a walk across the beach to see the chunks of glacier close-up. Of course, waking up in Río Serrano with sunrise on the Cuernos was unforgettable.
This will allow you to alter your temperature throughout the day and adjust to the changing weather. Your first layer should be polypropylene or a synthetic fabric that dries quickly and absorbs sweat. Make sure the outermost layer is wind- and water-resistant. Keep spare dry clothes on hand, just in case, as wet clothes don’t retain heat. PROTECT YOUR EYES... Wear goggles or sunglasses to decrease glare from the sun. You’ll be able to see the terrain better. These will also protect your eyes from snow, wind, rain, ice and debris.
EQUIP YOURSELF... One of the main causes of severe lower extremity injuries in skiing is bindings that don’t release properly during falls. Make sure that your bindings work properly before hitting the slopes. Wrist fractures are the most common injuries in snowboarding, and they occur when snowboarders try to break their fall with outstretched arms. Wrist braces may be worth considering. KNOW YOUR LIMITS... Injuries most commonly occur when you are fatigued—your muscles are weakened and your reaction times diminished—so take breaks and give your body time to recuperate throughout the day. Recognize your limitations and don’t push it too far in one outing.You’re likelihood of injury increases if you are performing skills that you’re body isn’t ready for. WARM UP... Cold muscles, tendons, and ligaments are at increased risk of energy, so be sure to perform comprehensive warm ups before you start your activity. If you’re skiing or snowboarding, take a few easy jogs first to loosen and warm your muscles. It’s easier to prevent injuries than to rehabilitate from them. Be smart, and listen to your body. Don’t overdo it. But remember: even the best-prepared athletes may still suffer injuries. Should you get injured, seek medical attention as soon as possible. Early intervention almost always precipitates a quicker recovery.
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Backpacking Never Tasted So Good
Mandala Andino
Live your life to the fullest extent possible with bodywork based on gentle touch.
Bored with 5-minute rice dinners and dried pasta meals? Looking for an alternative lunch? Ready for a healthy, light-weight breakfast suggestion? Is there something that will help you survive cold Patagonian nights in a tent? Yes, yes, yes! Here are a few recipes to spice up your trip. Bill’s Trekkers Breaky For a ‘W’ breakfast for two you’ll need... • 1 box of instant oatmeal (Quaker, Avena Instantánea) • 1 can of Svelty powdered milk. (Don’t go for the cheaper brand.Your breakfast will taste so much better if you just go for Svelty.) • 1 bag of brown sugar, which you can find at the pharmacy. Toss oatmeal in a resealable Ziploc bag and add powdered milk and sugar to taste. In the morning all you have to do is put your cup into the Ziploc bag, add some boiling water, and you’re ready to go for another day. For some variation, take a bag of jam or some dried fruit to flavor up your oats. Wrap It Up For this alternative lunch or cold dinner for two, you’ll need... • 1 pack of integral tortillas, which you can find at Vergel on Blanco Encalada • 250 grams of cream cheese • Aji Pebre (some spicy goodness that you can find the small bottles, next to the ketchup) • 1 pack of Serrano ham • A handful of white raisins (pasas blancas) • A handful of fresh cilantro Mix the cream cheese with some Aji Pebre to taste and spread it on the tortillas. Divide the Serrano ham onto each tortilla, sprinkle on some chopped-up raisins, finish it all off with cilantro, and wrap these bad boys up. Provecho! Candola If you’re in your tent with all your layers on and still freezing your toes off, consider walking up to the refugio and buying a box of wine. For this typical Chilean recipe you’ll need... • A box of wine • Sugar • The skin of half an orange • A couple of sticks of cinnamon • And… to get out of that cozy sleeping bag to put up your stove Mix all the ingredients in a pot, add sugar to taste, and heat until you can just drink it, but the alcohol is still in there. Sleep tight!
Call for an appointment: 99302997 / 414143 mandalaandino@yahoo.com Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile
II FERIA TURISTICA AUSTRAL Liceo Politécnico “Luis Cruz Martínez” invita a toda la comunidad a visitar la II Feria Turística Austral, a realizarse el día 12 de septiembre 2008 desde las 9.30 hrs a las 19.30 hrs, en las dependencias del establecimeinto.
H o s t e r i a
L ago del T oro
Laundry, Transfers, Horse riding
Like home... Hosteria Fono: 56 61 412481 Reservas Fono:56 61 220014 (Punta Arenas)
Río Serrano, Patagonia hosteria@lagodeltoro.com www.lagodeltoro.com
The Milodon Laundry Service P l a n ni n g meal s for th e trai l
Eating properly while on the trail will not only keep your energy up, but also keep the team happy and postive. Planning the amounts and types of food is one of the biggest challenges of any backcountry trip. If you’re traveling in a group, find out if anybody has any food restrictions (vegetarians, food allergies?). Discuss the menu before you head to the store. Make a day-by-day list of meals and snacks, complete with ingredients, for the exact amount of people in your group. Breakdown how many scoops of oatmeal you’ll need, the number of dry soup packets and and chocolate bars. Try not to plan for too much food. If you come home with enough grub to last you another day or two, it means you carried an extra 1-2 kilos in your pack. It’s best to shoot for 3,000 calories per day. Light eaters can get away with less (maybe 2,500) where a big eater might want to bump it up to around 3,500. Dehydrated meals are all the rave, but they often taste like cardboard. Sure, they might save some weight in your pack, but they take away some of the fun of preparing meals at camp. If you can cook it at home, there is a way to cook it on the trail. Prepping spices and cut veggies at home also makes packing and consumption easier. After the big meal shop, remove all packaging and excess garbage that you won’t need on the trail. This step will make more space in your pack and leave you with less to carry out later. Repack all your food into doubled and labeled, resealable plastic bags. Consider it a fun challenge to eat well and pack light. When packing your tools for cooking, try to not bring any piece of gear that only serves one purpose. Don’t bring a cutting board, for example. Something like the lid to your cooking pot can double as a cutting surface.
Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Closed Sundays. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales
[ season 5 ]
hostels • rental equipment • guides • information www.erratic rock.com
September.08
10
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Planet Patagonia. Earth.
Wind.
You are here.
Patagonian garbage Blowin’ in the wind .
As a traveler, do you ever wonder how the recycle programs work? Are there even programs to recycle? In Patagonia, we’ve all noticed the lack of garbage bins, much less recycle bins. In many cities, it is up to the individual businesses to sort and save their recyclables in hopes that, by the end of the season, there will be some sort of system in place to pass their sorted items onto recycling plants. People have to get creative. Some businesses are known for sorting everything, even their organic waste, which is collected and fed to local pigs. Some restaurants in Chile rinse out and store their used tetrapak cartons (milk and juice cartons with the silver lining) all season long, before they ship them all to Santiago. Often, before the season is over, these recycling optimists run out of storage space. And when they do, they’ll be forced to start throwing away perfectly recyclable items. What happens when the season is over? Most places will produce less trash with fewer travelers passing through, but the chances that the folks who stay in their towns during winter will be able to recycle their recyclables, also become fewer, because the programs all seem to fizzle and fade. Disposing of non-recyclable garbage is another stinky subject. Litter rustling around in the
wind is a huge blight on the Patagonian landscape. And it accumulates every garbage day. In Chilean Patagonia, where plastic bags haven’t been banned as they have in Argentine places like Calafate and Chaltén, everybody puts garbage out to be collected at the same time, twice a week. On garbage day, residents hang their garbage bags, usually once-used, flimsy plastic grocery bags, from trees, or place them in holey raised baskets outside their houses.Then the mobs of hungry street dogs hunt down the town’s leftover grub, tearing open white bag after white bag.Trash spills everywhere, just in time for the wind to swoop in and sweep it where it may. Not to put a damper on your trip, but if you’re wondering what you can do as a traveler, here are a few ideas. Express concern everywhere you go. Ask about recycling programs. Don’t buy bottled water; the tap water in most of Patagonia is delicious and safe. Try to buy things that don’t don a lot of packaging waste. Refuse the plastic bags you’ll be given, and bring your own burlier, reusable bag.Take waste back home with you, especially little things, like spent batteries. These small acts may not seem like much, but every little bit helps.
Backpack - Check. Sleeping bag - Check. Boots - Check. Gore-tex jacket - Check. Sunglasses Check. iPod - Check. Do you ever wonder where all this stuff comes from? Sure, it’s from the store, but how is it made? What happens before it makes its way to the store? What happens when you’re done using it? The internet video ‘The Story of Stuff With Annie Leonard’ (www.storyofstuff.com) explores the line of consumption, from extraction to disposal.You need to check out this eye-opening video, and tell your friends to do the same. Most of us are at least a little bit familiar with the gruesome statistics surrounding waste. In the Amazon, 2,000 trees are being cut down every minute. 80% of the world’s original forests are gone, kaput.The U.S. government admits to producing four billion pounds of toxic chemicals every year. Individuals produce 4.5 pounds of garbage a day. If everyone on Earth consumed as crazily as Americans, we would need 3-5 planets in order to survive. The statistics vary slightly according to source, but any way you look at them, even if you choose to do so with your eyes closed, they’re there. It’s easy to stay numb to the data, maybe because we already know it too well or we rely on our material items so much, we believe we can’t live without them. Plus, we only see the product part of production, the easy, consumable part. Ads glide across our televisions, telling us we need to buy more stuff, newer stuff. We eye what’s on the shelves in the stores, all so easy to buy, and so cheap, especially when you think about all the labor that goes into making the product. Metal mined in South Africa. Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic thrown in
from China. Assembled in Mexico. Shipped to the United States. Shelved and sold as cheaply and as quickly as possible. These days, the average American consumes twice as much more than they did 50 years ago. For a reason.We might think the consumer boom existed longer than we have, but it was, in fact, premeditated and researched. American post-WWII retail analyst Victor LeBeau said, “Our enormously productive economy… demands that we make consumption our way of life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, that we seek our spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in consumption… We need things consumed, burned up, replaced and discarded at an ever-accelerating rate.” But the mad cycle that such consumerism calls for doesn’t make people happy. Think of the huge number of prescriptions for anti-depressants (another item to consume, of course). Work till you drop. Watch TV to relax. Feel low because of the pretty people on commercials suggest you be more like them. Buy more to be like the pretty people in those ads. Work more to afford to buy more, and so on. We shouldn’t think of this as a purely North American problem, however. The maniacal cycle pervades many countries. It’s time to hop off this hamster wheel. If people created the model of consumerism, surely, we can recreate a more sustainable way to live with our Earth. To find out more, take 20 minutes to view ‘The Story of Stuff.’ And recycle the information: Pass it on!
Water.
Drink up, without the plastic. Most travelers believe tap water is never drinkable, even at home. Better avoid drinking water from rivers and streams or you’ll fall victim to all sorts of waterborne illnesses, like diarrhea, e coli infection, or cholera, you know, “beaver fever.” We can thank the water-bottling companies and the media attention they get for a lot of this fear. But in places, like Torres del Paine and most of the Fitz Roy area, not only is it completely safe to drink the water, but it also tastes delicious: fresh, clean, better than water out of any plastic bottle! As someone who tries to protect the environment, you might be appalled to learn that plastic water bottles account for 80% of all plastic trash collected in Patagonia. This is completely unnecessary. Patagonia’s national parks are burdened under the mountain of trash that is produced in them on a daily basis.
So, please do yourself and pachamama (Mother Earth) a favor: Save your precious pesos, and leave the two-liter bottles of flashy imported water in the store. Fill your cup with the glacier-fed goodness of Patagonia’s still-pristine, cool clean water. When you get back to town, if you’re staying someplace where the water is deemed safe for drinking, ask for “agua de la llave,” or just help yourself to a glass of sweet H2O from the tap. Better still, spend your saved cash on a couple of local beers--brewed with the same natural freshwater--sans plastic. If you are staying in a place where the water drinkability factor is questionable, just boil the tap water and fill your Nalgene or other reusable water bottle with the boiled water. Or invest in a water filter. Over the long run this will save you money, not to mention saving the landfills tons of plastic.
11
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
The Green Pages. Pachamama.
Es tiempo de decidir. ¡Viva la bolsa de género! Es hora de hacer algo por Puerto Natales, por nuestra Tierra. Es el momento de hacer algo por nuestros hijos y algo por nosotros mismos. Los problemas que afectan al medio ambiente no se encuentran al otro lado de nuestro planeta, son parte de nuestro diario vivir. Es por esto que la Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza en conjunto con Sernatur, la Asociación de Guías de Última Esperanza, la Asociación Ecopatagonia y muchos amigos del medio ambiente, han iniciado una Campaña llamada “DESEMBOLSATE” que tiene por finalidad invitar a los vecinos de Puerto Natales a rescatar del baúl de la abuelita la clásica bolsa de género o la malla para la feria que antiguamente se usaba. No nos queremos quedar de brazos cruzados es por esto que hemos comenzado este movimiento para eliminar las abundantes bolsas plásticas. Estas, junto a miles de envases desechables y muchos otros elementos, han llenado nuestras casas y ensuciado las calles, playas, parques naturales, océanos, etc. El mundo entero esta cubriéndose
por estos fantasmas de polietileno y nylon a una velocidad imparable. Cientos de animales de todas las especies mueren diariamente por asfixia, envenenamiento y estrangulación producida por alguno de estos elementos. ¿Que estamos esperando para hacer algo? No sólo queremos decir que no queremos más bolsas, sino que además debemos actuar activamente para cambiar este sistema de contaminación silencioso. Tu también puedes ser parte de este movimiento y así lo esperamos, queremos que nos hagas llegar tus ideas para desarrollar este proyecto. ¿SABIAS QUE? • Las bolsas de plástico, fabricadas con polietileno, se demoran entre 100 y 1000 años, en degradarse. • En China, diariamente se utilizan dos mil millones de bolsas. • En Chile se estima que al año el comercio nos entrega nada más ni nada menos que la cantidad de 3.000.000.000 de bolsas
plásticas. El 90% de todas esas bolsas plásticas termina simplemente en un vertedero, siendo la mayoría de las veces utilizada solo para llevar productos del supermercado hasta la casa. La vida útil real de estas bolsas, se resume en • el 90% de los casos a 20 minutos, el tiempo promedio que tardamos en llegar desde el lugar en donde compramos a nuestro hogar, luego de esto su destino automático es el vertedero • Miles de bolsas se fabrican por minuto, estas son útiles solo durante otros pocos minutos, pero luego, tardaran entre 500 y mil años en desaparecer del medio ambiente. Esas bolsas son las mismas que actualmente afean el paisaje de Puerto Natales y todos sus alrededores. Todos sabemos que causan •
daño al medio ambiente--directo e indirecto-pero las seguimos usando. Este panorama comienza a cambiar porque nosotros decidimos cambiar: Usa bolsas de genero o de malla (como las que • usaban las abuelitas) para hacer tus compras. Rechaza la bolsita plastica que te dan en el • comercio hasta por comprar un chicle. • Si eres comerciante ofrece bolsas de papel o pidele a tus clientes que lleven sus bolsas. Más información Cámara de Turismo Ultima Esperanza: camaraturismoue@yahoo.com
Jamie Schectman, CMT
Massage Therapist Bariloche
Fire.
Hot facts. Hot topics. • • • • • • •
• • •
Rainforests are being cut down at the rate of 100 acres per minute. A single quart of motor oil, if disposed of improperly, can contaminate up to 2,000,000 gallons of fresh water. Motor oil never wears out, it just gets dirty. Oil can be recycled, re-refined and used again. On average, each one of us produces 4.4 pounds of solid waste each day. This adds up to almost a ton of trash per person, per year. 26 recycled PET bottles equals a polyester suit. Five recycled PET bottles make enough fiberfill to stuff a ski jacket. About 1/3 of an average dump is made up of packaging material. The U.S. is the #1 trash-producing country in the world at 1,609 pounds per person per year. This means that 5% of the world’s people generate 40% of the world’s waste. Approximately one billion trees worth of paper are thrown away every year in the U.S. The highest point in Ohio State, USA is “Mount Rumpke,” which is actually a mountain of trash at the Rumpke sanitary landfill. Each year, the U.S. population discards
•
• •
• • •
16,000,000,000 diapers, 1,600,000,000 pens, 2,000,000,000 razor blades, 220,000,000 car tires, and enough aluminum to rebuild the U.S. commercial air fleet four times over. The energy saved from recycling one glass bottle can run a 100-watt light bulb for four hours. It also causes 20% less air pollution and 50% less water pollution than when a new bottle is made from raw materials. A modern glass bottle would take 4,000 years or more to decompose--and even longer if gets stuck in a landfill. Mining and transporting raw materials for glass produces about 385 pounds of waste for every ton of glass that is made. If recycled glass is substituted for half of the raw materials, the waste is cut by more than 80%. An aluminum can that is thrown away will still be a can 500 years from now. There is no limit to the amount of times an aluminum can can be recycled. Recycling aluminum takes only 5% of the energy needed to manufacture it from raw material. Once an aluminum can is recycled, it can be part of a new can within six weeks.
Disponible.
sales@patagoniablacksheep.com
Tel.: (02944) 448-750 adiostahoe@gmail.com
Santiago
www.andeshostel.com (56-2) 632 9990 - 632 9173
September.08
12
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Calafate, Argentina POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)
questions & answers
Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility and massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets
and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.
When are the stores open, anyway? In Calafate, they’re open from 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m.
El Calafate
What’s the weather like in these parts? How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales? It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities. What can I do in Calafate? Glaciers are the main attractions. Perito Moreno Glacier is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit six other glaciers in the area (Upsala, Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis, and Heim). How do I get to/from the Calafate airport? By the airport shuttle, which costs around $18 ARS per person. By taxi it’s $50 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops. Where is the information center in Calafate? The information center is in the bus station. Can I drink the tap water? In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people. Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed.Yay, progress! This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box.
Did
you know...
El Calafate... El Calate passed a law in 2006 making the use of plastic bags in supermarkets and retail stores illegal! The powers that be determined that the bags+wind=visual impact. If a retailer is caught using plastic bags, they can be fined or brought up on charges. Way to go Calafate! Way to choose a side! Calafate: a true leader in the struggle to clean up Patagonia.
It’s Patagonia.The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer. How can I visit Perito Moreno Glacier? There are regular tours that cost ARS$90 (incl. pick up and guide) + ARS$40 (entrance).The regular bus is ARS$60 + entrance.You can also take one of the remises for ARS$250 for up to four passengers.This includes the ride there and back, and the remis will wait for you there for three hours. There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura.They offer two different treks: 1.) Minitrekking for ARS$265 + ARS$45 (transfer to the park) + ARS$40 (entrance fee). 2.) The Big Ice: ARS$375 + ARS$45 (transfer) + ARS$40 (entrance). To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip (from 7 a.m. till 6 p.m.) ARS$240 (boat ticket) + ARS$26 (transfer to the port) + ARS$40 (entrance fee). Bring your own lunch for the excursions.The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time! Who was Perito Moreno?
Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?
about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles.
Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.
Not really. The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the next bus to El Chaltén at 6.30 p.m.
What if I don’t have a hostel or hotel reservation?
Is it safe at night?
How many people live in El Chaltén?
Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy.
200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capital and youngest city, founded in 1985.
Where can I camp in El Calafate? There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities, and all around ARS$18 per person.The best one is El Ovejero. Are there any cheap eating options? Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price. What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).
El Chaltén How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate? By bus. It takes 4.5 hours to get to Chaltén from Calafate. In winter there’s only one bus in the morning.
What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any ATMs, banks, or places to change money. Some places accept dollars or euros, but not Chilean pesos. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Do I have to pay to enter the Park from El Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It is up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all common sense leave-no-trace principles. Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén? In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/ Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation
The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village. Where can I camp in El Chaltén? In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. In the village, Madsen at the end of town right next to the Fitz Roy Trail, is free. There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers. Can I find rental equipment? You sure can, from a variety of stores on the main drag. How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You at least need to stay one night there. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto. How long is the trekking season? From October until April (depends on the weather) in El Chaltén. In Calafate, you can do all excursions from August until the end of May. Will my cell phone work in Chaltén? Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?
13
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Chaltén for Dummies:
Choose your own adventure
By Heather Poyhonen
It’s the typical Gringo Trail. Sometime before or after he ‘W’ in Torres del Paine, travelers head for Calafate to check out Perito Moreno Glacier, buy souvenir matés, and catch the bus to El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital. Many people end up doing day hikes, but it is possible to link a few of the hot spots and get yourself a multiday backpacking journey. Here’s an example of a four dayer--from Río Eléctrico to Lago Torre--which can easily be lengthened. Getting Ready.
of town. Day 1. To Piedra del Fraile. Walk toward the end of town, and instead of heading for the Fitz Roy Trail, veer right, following the signs to El Pilar Hotel. From here you have two options: Hire a transfer to Río Eléctrico, which you can arrange at the last kiosk in town (right across from the fork in the road heading to El Pilar), or hitch a ride. A lot of the vehicles that pass will be full rental cars or buses, so be patient and keep walking. Once you reach Río Electrico (a kilometer or two past El Pilar Hotel), you’ll take
backtrack for about an hour on the Río Eléctrico route, where you’ll meet the juncture in the main trail. At this point, you can take an old abandoned trail, which is more direct, but rockier, unkempt and unmarked. It’s a bit tricky to find, so don’t worry if you miss it.You can head all the way back to El Pilar and take the main, well-marked trail from there. Once you reach Poincenot, set up camp, eat and relax.You are well poised for a sunrise show at Fitz Roy. If you still have daylight and energy, head over to Piedras Blancas. The sign says it’ll take you about 30 minutes from camp, but allow for more time and plan on journeying all the way to Lago Piedras Blancas to enjoy close-up views of the glacier there. It’s a fun jaunt, hopping from boulder to smooth boulder with the clear glacial water reflecting your leaps from below. (Note: If you don’t do this on day 2, you can enjoy this part of the trip on day 3 and maybe even spend an extra night in Poincenot after catching the crazy sunrise show on the Fitz Roy needles.) Day 3. Dawn at Laguna de los Tres.
Fitz Roy as seen from Madre e Hija Trail. You’ll probably spend your first day getting to Chaltén (about five hours from Calafate), walking around the town’s soon-to-be paved dirt roads and making sure you have everything you need for your trek. Chaltén is a growing town, but it still lacks ATMs, money exchangers, and places that accept credit cards. This, of course, is part of its charm. Though, it’s not so charming if you find yourself penniless with pockets outturned, washing dishes to pay for your dinner or lodging. In stocking up for a 4-5 night trip, consider buying your grub in Calafate.The selection is larger and you might find it’s a tiny bit cheaper. If you’re already in Chaltén and ready to do your shop, just skip La Anonima. It hardly has anything even though it appears to be the biggest market on the main drag. XXXXXX has a good selection of camping food(instant rice packages, cereal bars, oatmeal and just about any mini-item you’d want: packets of jam, butter, lemon juice, spices, you name it), though it can be a bit pricey. They also have a large selection of decent fresh fruits and veggies. Make sure you carry your own bag or backpack for your shop, as Chaltén, like Calafate, has banned plastic bags. (Gotta love this place!) Don’t worry, though. If you’re struggling, they’ll snicker and give you a cardboard box. Your first night in Chaltén, you can stay in one of many hostels or at the free Camping Madsen, at the foot of the Fitz Roy trail at the end
the Río Eléctrico trail for about two hours to reach camping Piedra del Fraile.This is private property, so be prepared to pay $25 pesos to camp. Fraile is the only camping that you’ll pay for, and they have hot showers, sheltered cooking areas, and homecooked meals or beer for sale. From Fraile, you have a couple of day hike opportunities: Paso de Cuadrado and Lago Eléctrico Glacier. Both are about three hours out. Ask the person who receives you at Piedra Fraile how to find the route to Paso del Cuadrado. They’ll surely say, “muy muy epinado.” It’s steep as a mother#%$?!, and they mean you’ll have to use all fours to scramble up the scree. It’s a one step forward, half a step back sort of trail, pretty much the entire way. But the views on a clear day are enough to knock the wind out of you, if the climb doesn’t.You’ll see Fitz Roy’s other face and the glacier from afar.
Brace yourself for a stunning light show on the face of Cerro Fitz Roy and its range. Head out around 6 a.m. (check sunrise times in town before you go) with a headlamp. Hoof it about an hour to the viewpoint. It’s straight uphill and you’ll be sweating on the way up, so don’t overdress when you leave your tent at dawn. Bring plenty to keep you warm once you’ve stopped and are waiting for the sunshine to light up the granite faces at top. Bring your hat, gloves, extra jackets, maybe even your sleeping bag, and most definitely a thermos full of your favorite hot drink (or a stove to boil water). Once you reach Fitz Roy’s main viewpoint, the hill slopes down and around to another hillock, with views of Laguna Sucia from above. Don’t miss out on this part of the trek (a lot of people do). Laguna Sucia is one of the most mindblowing crisp blues you’ll ever see, guaranteed. It’s also a good way to warm you up again while waiting for the sun’s rays to reach Fitz Roy. After the sunrise, head back to camp, gather up your gear and hike the Madre e Hija Trail to Camping de Agostini, where you’ll sleep alongside rushing Rio Fitz Roy. Alternatively, plan to take it easy, and stay another night at Poincenot. It’s free, after all, so if you don’t have any time constraints, just kick back and
enjoy. You can still do a couple of mini-treks from Poincenot. Walk to Piedras Blancas if you haven’t already. Or, on your way back from a stupendous sunrise, follow Río Blanco to your right (opposite direction from Piedras Blancas). This is not really a trail, but once you reach the river and before you cross the footbridge, trace the river’s edge heading right to reach the base of Laguna Sucia. From here, you’ll glimpse Sucia’s glacier, from below this time. Witness the explosions of icemelt cascade into the lake. You’ll likely get to savor this view all by your lonesome. The excursion will add about two hours to your morning. If you are a little pressed for time and decide to head to De Agostini, you’ll have to miss out on the foot of Laguna Sucia, which is fine as long as you’ve seen its epic blue from above at the Fitz Roy lookout. Once you arrive to De Agostini and set up camp, venture out to visit Lago Torre. It’s just another 10 minutes to the lookout. You’ll see Cerro Torre from the trail on the way to De Agostini, but the view from the lake is a little more complete, with glacier and all. If you follow the sloped ridge on the right of the lake, you’ll see Glacier Torre up close, from above. It’s a lovely wind tunnel of a walk that takes about two hours there and back. Day 4. Back to Chaltén. From Agostini, enjoy a mostly flat and downhill stroll back to Chaltén, where you can shower at a hostel, catch your bus back to Calafate and your next adventure, or recoup for another day or two out on the trail. Lago Toro or Lago del Desierto are both good options with camping to extend your trip a bit. If you’re not ready to commit to more nights camping, settle for another long full day (about 8 hours) hike to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, with panoramic views of the entire valley, Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Glacier Viedma. Environmental notes. Fires are not allowed in Parque Los Glaciares, so be sure you bring a stove and sufficient gas. Water is potable everywhere, except for ______ (and you wonít be camping there if you follow this guide). Take all trash out with you. Do not throw your garbage into the latrines!
Day 2. Piedra del Fraile to Poincenot. Today you have choices. If you want to take it easy and spend another day at this campsite (for another $25), plan on doing the other day hike to Lago Eléctrico, a bleak glacial lake.You’ll hug the sheer slippery rocks, which drop into the lake itself on the way to the glacier for a couple hours. It is possible to start early in the morning, hike to Lago Eléctrico, return and eat a late breakfast or early lunch, pack up your gear and set off for Poincenot. To reach Camping Poincenot, you’ll
Love the Sheep? Help us by sending us your comments, stories, discoveries, praises, gripes or photos. editor@patagoniablacksheep.com
September.08
14
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Puerto Varas, Chile POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 765100 (police), 239100 (ambulance)
questions & answers Puerto Varas How do I get to Puerto Varas? If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD. In Puerto Montt, you’ll catch one of the buses to Puerto Varas. Where can I stay without breaking the bank? There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people. How should I dress for the climate? In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather. How do you pronounce the name of the lake? The lake is Llanquihue, and it is pronounced as “Yawn-key-way.” Will I have any problems with drinking water or food? In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are
Hospedaje Carla Minte • • • • • •
Private bathrooms German breakfast Cable TV Central heating WiFi Man spricht deutsch
Maipo 1010, Puerto Varas, Chile Phone: 65-232880 www.interpatagonia.com/carlaminte
Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the
views. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.
not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days. What’s the nightlife like? There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season. Not to mention, the casino where you will have a chance to part with all your travel money, or if you’re lucky, win enough to pay for the whole trip. How is the fishing in this area? Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout. What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake? That is Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m). Are there any good day hikes in the area? Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few. What else is there to do? There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla. What kind of wildlife can I see in the park? There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all. How can I get around without a car? In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.
Is it easy to change foreign currency?
Can I take a tour by boat?
Yes, most banks will change dollars and/or euros and there are many exchange shops called “cambios” where you can change your foreign currency.
Sure, you can visit an island nature preserve in the area of Caleta de Angelmo. Just ask around near the Navimag dock for times and prices.
Can I use my travelers checks or ATM card?
You’ll find a variety of restaurants in the area of Caleta de Angelmo with great seafood selections at reasonable prices.
You bet. Travelers checks are a good way to go and can be cashed at all the banks. ATM cards are another option, since most banks have a machine on the Cirrus network and make the currency exchange for you automatically. What times of the day are the shops and restaurants open? Most shops are open Monday-Friday from 09:00 to 13:30 and then close for lunch until about 15:00, and then remain open again until around 19:00. Saturdays, from 09:00 to 13:00. Banks are open Monday-Friday, 09:00 to 14:00.
Where can I get the best seafood?
Is it customary to tip? In Chile, in general, it is customary to tip 10% of the total of the bill at restaurants. When using a taxi it is okay to leave the small change. What about calling abroad or home?
Is Puerto Montt safe?
Where can I buy handicrafts?
There are call centers throughout the city where they have internet and the city has a public phone network that enables you to make local and international phone calls with coins and special phone cards. Also, most hotels, for a surcharge, will let you make international calls.
For the most part, Pto. Montt is a quiet city with few incidents of urban violence, but be smart and leave the bling-bling at home and use the buddy system when heading out to enjoy the night life.
About 2 km. from the city center, you will find Caleta de Angelmo, home to a variety of handmade items, including wool sweaters, alpaca clothing, and leather items.
Who do I contact in case of an emergency? You can find the police station at Guillermo Gallardo 519, or dial 133. To call an ambulance, dial 131.
Puerto Montt
15
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Letters to Black Sheep By Lael Grant
In places like this, I think about just walking away from everything and everyone. If it were not for friends, family and work, I would leave for the wilderness. For a time, I dated a girl who asked if I could ever move back to the big city. I said no, and it was clear that the relationship would go nowhere. However, I did go back to the city. I hated it and started to hate who it made me become. Now I live next to the mountains and work in the wilderness as an archaeologist, but things don’t feel that much different. I still have to go into town and I still depend on vehicles. I still have a drink at the end of the day to “soften the edges.” When in the wild I still crave a smoke because I’m surrounded by smokers, city folk who work in the wild. I recently excavated a prehistoric fire pit, uncovering stone tools beneath a rock scarpe overhang. I thought about the men, women or family who sheltered themselves there from 50mph winds. It made me feel weak. I daydreamed of being in that situation and it brought me a sense of peace and happiness, imagining living that close to the land. Now I feel like we are all too comfortable with the illusion of our existence. What I mean by this is that we are so far removed from the reality of our surroundings. In our vehicles and planes, we travel through space (and time if you really think about it) at an accelerated and unnatural rate. I say unnatural because these machines cause us to miss what is around us. If you walk or ride a horse to a destination, you have time to soak in what is around you along the way. At 65 mph you watch the road and other vehicles and you miss all that goes by. It’s no wonder we are so lost at times. We spend our days in pursuit of the dollar to pay for subsistence while it is all around us. Well at least it WAS all around us until we paved over it in the name of progress and a delusional idea of a future utopia. In many way we modern human beings have to work harder (9-5, 7 days a week) than those “survivor” ancients. Yet we are weaker.
Last week I was sitting in a restaurant and watched a man and his son eat together. The man was visibly fragile. He was also obviously a health care provider, due to the scrubs he wore. If he had to defend his son or survive in the wilderness, he would likely fail. It saddened me to think that we have become so weak and if the system were to break down,
had no life skills and would not even know how to go about sustaining himself in the wild. This is the problem. People think that they don’t need to know basic survival skills. so they don’t even bother testing themselves or learning, and they become weak. Last week on my way back from town, I saw a large snake in the road. I noticed as I swerved
Got a story? Write us with your thoughts, letters, stories, ideas. editor@patagoniablacksheep.com which it will, many will not make it because of our dependency on modern comforts. How may people can walk outside their house and find something to eat that is growing wild or find potable water? How many would perish after a week of looking? How many more of them would know how to reuse the seed for harvest? I once saw a friend of mine wearing a shirt that said “I would die in the wilderness.” I laughed at the shirt and he said, “No, really I would.” When I first moved to New Mexico I met a guy who, after berating me for hunting, admitted that he
to miss it that it wasn’t moving. I watched in the rearview mirror for a few seconds and it still didn’t move. This is when the redneck in me surfaced. I pulled the truck over and went back to investigate. It had been hit by a car and was fresh dead. I put it in the back of the truck to take back to the ranch, where I immediately began to skin it. A group quickly gathered to see what I was doing. There were two types of people watching me: those who were in horror and disgust, and those who were curious and wanted to learn. The horrified ones went back to smoking, drinking and dying their hair (literally). The
Powder Up for Winter in the Southern Hemisphere By Brian Wiley
Pictured: typical two-planker.
curious stayed and watched everything I did, asking questions along the way. Among them, two asked if we were going to eat it. We did not eat it because that would just be foolish. However, I was impressed that there were a few willing to go there. My point in telling this story is this: If you are starving in the desert, you might have to find sustenance on snake meat for a while. But if you don’t know how to skin it or gut it, you won’t even have that option. We humans in our modern comforts wander through life, blind to the reality of our surroundings. Like sheep, we ignore the existence of the wolf and the perils of the woods at the edge of the pasture. I work with sheep in the forest at the edge of the pasture, and I’m put in the position of sheepdog. Comparatively speaking, next to most people, I am a “survivor” type. However, I look at those stone tools so carefully napped and the patience and precision it took to hunt or work with them or the rock overhang where a family took shelter, and it all makes me feel weak. It’s journeys like this that I think about going back out into the wilderness alone. Maybe out there I will find greater happiness in the simplicity of it all. The only problem is that happiness has to be shared.
The ski season in most of South America typically runs from mid-June to mid-September. To avoid long lift lines and bigger crowds, the end of the snow season (August and September) is a good bet. If you’re lucky enough to be in Patagonia during the winter, you might as well play in the snow at the bottom of the world. Visit the town of Ushuaia, Argentina, and ski at Cerro Castor, which is about a 30-minute bus ride from town. You will be amazed by the fantastic views and steep terrain. Half of the ski area is above the tree line and that’s where you’ll find some great off-piste backcountry stashes. If you want to see even more of the backcountry, you can hire a local guide to take you to virtually untouched backcountry lines. Just be prepared to hike for a couple hours to reach them. Also, Cerro Castor lays claim to staying open latest in the season until mid-October.
Hop the border to Punta Arenas, Chile, and you can ski at Club Andino. This ski area boasts great views of Punta Arenas and Strait of Magellan. There usually aren’t any crowds here, and you’ll enjoy skiing runs lined by lengua trees. At the top of the lift, you might be tempted to take off your board or skis to take in the panoramic view of the region. Further north, you’ll also find some amazing powder. If you prefer the larger ski resorts with hotels, bars, and discotheques, hit some of these slopes: Las Leñas; Cerro Catedral outside of Bariloche on the Argentinean side. Portillo; Valle Nevado, La Parva, or El Colorado outside of Santiago on the Chilean side. If you prefer something a bit further away from the beaten track, check out Termas de Chillán, Pucón, or Antillanca, in Chile; and La Hoya, Cerro Bayo, or Chapelco in Argentina.
W as h ing W it h Dirt Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat; the grease on meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. We need it for energy while trekking. A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use these products at all. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left over greases on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue (impossible to remove without soap & water)... or is it? Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fistfull of dirt, and scrub! The small granuals of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any difficult foods. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed w i t h only a small amount of water, soap-free!
September.08
16
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Bariloche, Argentina POPULATION: 150,000 WHAT’S GROOVY: Parque Municipal Llao Llao, eXtremo Sur (Morales 765) for kayaking, Carol Jones (M.Victoria 5600) for guided horse tours JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (ambulance)
questions & answers
San Carlos de Bariloche is Argentina’s gateway to Patagonia. The city’s name originated from a typo on a letter addressing a major English settler of the area as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos. Despite the error, the name stuck.The city center is an eclectic mix of shopping, delectable chocolate stores, accommodation for every budget, lively bars and packed dance clubs. Beyond the center, you’ll catch views ranked by National Geographic as some of the ‘worlds’ best.’ Feast your eyes on the hand-carved log and stone architecture and the lake and mountains beyond it. Trailheads to the area’s main attraction, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, are easily accessible. Created in 1934, the Park boasts rugged mountains,
such as Mount Tronador, flourishing Valdivian rainforests and the wide-open, windblown steppe. From day hikes to expeditions, visitors can enjoy every style of mountaineering and trekking is available. The single tracks lead to manned huts offering beds, hot meals and, sometimes, home-brewed beers. Check with Club Andino for maps, trail conditions and other inquiries. Bariloche is also home to South America’s largest ski area, Catedral. A small village in itself, Catedral offers over 30 chair lifts, 120 kilometers (74 miles) of groomed runs and 1,200 hectares (2,965 acres) of skiable terrain. Catedral’s base area is also a summer activity center with mountain biking, hiking and outdoor concerts.
Where can I change money?
How far is it to the Chilean border?
Is it worth renting a car?
There is a casa de cambio on Avenida Mitre, one block from the Centro Civico.
The Chilean border is about two hours away by car, traveling through Villa La Angostura.
How did Bariloche get its name?
Where can I get the best steak?
Bariloche interestingly enough got its name from a typo. At the end of the 19th century an English pioneer of the Nahuel Huapi area, Enrique Paterson, wrote a letter to a settler of the southeast sector of Nahuel Huapi, Carlos Wiederhold Piwonka. Paterson mistakenly referred to Mr. Piwonka as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos (Don being a polite way to refer to an owner of property or a company, and San, referring to a saint.). The name not only was a compliment to Mr. Piwonka but it also stuck as the area’s name. On July 26, 1927 the name was officially decreed the title of Bariloche.
El Boliche de Alberto is Bariloche’s “it” place for succulent steak. There are three locations, the restaurant at Bustillo kilometer 8 having the best reputation.
Where can I find a good trail map and information on the hiking trails?
Absolutely. Many of the treasures of the area are not accessible by bus. Also with the freedom of a car you can come and go as you like.
Club Andino, on the corner of 20 de Febrero, number 30, kiddy-corner from the YPF gas station has the maps and information you are looking for.
Yes, the Lochness monster’s distant relative, Nahuelito, lives in the lake, but he is very friendly.
How far is the airport from the city center?
Can I hike year-round?
Approximately 15 minutes.
Yes, the lower elevation trails are generally free of snow all year. The higher elevation trails are available from November to May.
We aren’t sure, but we have found that the less Spanish you speak, the better.
When is fishing season? The Limay River, one of the largest rivers in the area, drains into Nahuel Huapi. It is the best body of water for catching big fish. This eastern flowing river is notorious for large rainbow trout in November and December and large brown trout in March and April. How can I check airline status? Go to www.aa2000.com.ar to find out if your plane is on time.
What is the usual ski season? The ski season typically runs from mid-June to mid-October. Where do the boat cruises leave from? From Puerto Pañuelo, 25 km west of town, across from the Llao Llao Hotel.
How do I communicate with the world? Look for a locutorio, many have both internet and telephone booths available. What’s up with the siesta?
How far is El Bolsón from here?
Argentines need to catch up on their sleep. With dinner starting around 10 p.m., it is safe to say the Argentines are night owls. Stores in el centro are more apt to stay open during the day. Grocery stores and locutorias tend not to go on siesta. Normal siesta hours are from 12:30 to 4:30 (give or take a half hour).
El Bolsón is about an hour and a half south. It’s a gorgeous drive and well worth the trip if you have an extra day or two.
No, but they are on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Can I drink the water? Absolutely! It may be the best you ever tasted. How many people live here? There are between 85,000 and 150,000 full-time residents, depending on who you ask.
Do I need a reservation for the refugios (mountain huts)?
Is there a monster en Lago Nahuel Huapi?
What are they looking for at the traffic stops?
What’s with all large groups in matching outfits? It’s the latest thing, grab a few friends, start a team and pick your own colors. No, seriously. Bariloche is a hot spot for graduating classes to come and celebrate their new-found freedom. They come in huge groups and all wear the same rented outfits as kind of a rah-rah thing. The Brazilians do the same thing in the winter. What’s with all the Saint Bernards and their owners? These guys sell you the right to take a picture of their dog. Beware though. If you take a picture of the canine without paying for it, chaos may ensue. Where should I go to get the best sandwich? Morfy’s, side street next to the civic center.
17
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
A Mug of Beer and Dirty Boots By Shanie Matthews The frosted mug and homemade beer had to be a dream. I was six hours into the dense, flourishing forests of the Patagonian Andes. A wandering--yet perfectly manicured-- single-track trail led me to a beautiful, rustic log cabin. It was my sanctuary, restaurant and place of entertainment for a few nights, until I decided it was time to hike on to the next Andean refuge. Welcome to the reality of the trail circuits of northern Patagonia. The trail system, created in the mid 1900s, flows through miles of untouched, virgin bamboo forest. Glaciated mountains, thick timberland and crystal clear rivers intensify the beauty of the pristine playground. The paths are interlinked by fully stocked and manned huts. Here’s the lowdown on five hikes in the virgin forests of Parque Nacional de Nahuel Huapi. 1. Refugio Frey to Refugio San Martín. The grand daddy of them all, Refugio Frey is surrounded by a surreal setting.The mountains are rugged like a baby Chamonix, the dense forest resembles Alaska, and the rock climbing and winter backcountry descents are world-class. The laborious hike to the hut can either begin by chairlift from the Catedral ski area or by trail. Either is more or less a four-hour excursion. The log and rock refuge, built in 1957, has the capacity for 40 people, including mattresses and blankets. From Frey you can continue on through thick forests to Refugio San Martín, where emerald-green Lake Jakob awaits you. The hut, built in 1952, is outfitted for 30 people. It’s a five-to-seven hour hike between the two huts, with an elevation gain of 3,000 feet. The hike out is a five-to-seven hour stroll, following the clear, blue water of Rucaco River. 2. Refugio San Martín to Laguna Negra. If your wanderlust is still strong, then continue to Refugio Italia, which is based out of Laguna Negra.This is a more difficult hike, requiring compass work and agility. It takes about 6-9 hours to connect the two huts. You’ll venture through dense old-growth woods and the open steppe offering clear views of the mountains and class-three rock climbing. From Refugio Italia it’s another five hours of easy hiking back to civilization. 3. Refugio Lopez to Laguna Negra. This popular trailhead tends to be busy at the entrance and near the small kiosco, which incidentally has great choripan (bread with
chorizo). The trail starts with a steep climb offering panoramic views of the Lakes District. Walk three hours to arrive to a pink-stucco, sixty-person refuge. From Refugio Lopez it is a five-to-seven-hour hike of medium difficulty to Refugio Italia, with an elevation gain of 2,500 feet. 4. Laguna Negra to Pampa Linda. Another option from Refugio Italia is to continue on toward the glaciated faces of Mount Tronador. This is considered one of the world’s prime hiking trails, set within the gigantic Andes and close Tronador’s immense ice fields. The excursion is about 3-5 days, and it ends in Tronador National Park at Pampa Linda. There are campsites along the way and a hotel in Pampa Linda. To attempt this journey, you should have camping and trekking experience and know how to use a compass. 5. Lago Mascardi to Laguna Llum. This easy, two-to-three-hour hike climbs about 500 vertical feet. The trail wanders through rainforest-like terrain, full of Patagonian bamboo and native cypress and coigue trees. You’ll visit soft sand beaches, which frame the emerald-green water of Lago Mascardi. The trail continues to a hidden lagoon where it is said the forests are magical. At Laguna Llum, you’ll find an abandoned hut, Refugio Vivac. From Laguna Llum, you can also continue on to Pampa Linda at the base of Mount Tronador. A tent is vital for this excursion. There are a few different ways to locate information on these and other hikes, like Club Andino Bariloche, an organization created out of the mantra to interact, enjoy and spread the knowledge of the mountains has offices throughout Argentina. They offer maps and information about the various trails, access and current conditions. The main Bariloche hub is a non-descript building located in the center of town, across the street from the Moreno YPF gas station. Look for a green sign that says ‘Información de Montaña.’ Another place for the best maps and local guide books is a little fishbowl of a place on the corner of Villegas and Moreno. There are two different book series that cover the Bariloche Lakes region: Info Trekking de la Patagonia and Guía Sendas y Bosques.The Nahuel Huapi editions of both books are must-haves. Hiking through the world’s longest and second highest mountain range is a life changing way to get in touch with nature. Bariloche gives the adventurous many choices to lose themselves in the antique forests and towering granite mountains. And with so many hiking choices, you’re sure to find your own piece of paradise.
For more information on the trails of Bariloche, visit Club Andino.
Making and Breaking Camp In Patagonia, most likely all your camping will be at campsites, as camping offtrail is often illegal. Finding privacy may be difficult, so earplugs are a good option. If you do find yourself in a place with the opportunity to free-camp outside of the designated spots, camp on hard, durable surfaces, like rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Be sure you camp at least 50 meters away from any water sources, like lakes, rivers or streams. Remember that good campsites are found, not made. It’s not necessary to alter a site. If there is an existing fire ring at your campsite, DO NOT BUILD ANOTHER ONE. Campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Use a lightweight stove for cooking. For light, candle lanterns work great. Leave nature the way you found it, so that others may enjoy it as well. This means that what you pack in, you also pack out. It means you dispose of waste properly, digging 6-8inch deep catholes at least 200 feet away from water, camp and trails. Pack out toilet paper and feminine hygiene products. DO NOT WASH DISHES IN YOUR WATER SOURCE. Collect water and carry it away from its source to do your washing, and use biodegradable soap. When it’s time to break camp and move on, make sure you don’t forget anything. Once the backpacks are packed and the tents are stowed, everyone should make a sweep of the camp, looking for anything left behind, like binoculars hanging in the tree or small trash, like a small ripped corner of a candy bar. Check where the packs were and where the kitchen was. Don’t be afraid to pick up a piece of garbage that wasn’t yours. Leave the campsite the way you would want to find it if you were camping there next. Replace any rocks or large, natural pieces of wood you might have moved. Then, ask yourself some questions. How can I reduce my impact? Was it obvious were the tent was? Was vegetation crushed permanently, or will it pop up again easily. Is there any micro-trash left to be picked up? Did I create any new and unnecessary trails? Examining your camp before you leave it, is a great way to see how you can do it better next time.
adventure now comes with a logo.
C a b a l gat a s C a r o l Jo n e s Authentic Horseback Riding in Bariloche, Patagonia
w w w. c a ro l j o n e s . c o m . a r
September.08
18
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Pucón, Chile riding or mountain biking, you’ll get your fill of thrills. Visit the Mapuche Museum on Caupolicán to learn about the culture of the indigenuos people. Take a cruise on Villarrica Lake aboard a steampowered vessel, or just relax on one of the many black-sand beaches. Shop for locally made handicrafts, and dine in one of more than 50 local restaurants, before ending the day with a long soak in one of the geothermal pools. Pucón also has a great nightlife and is relatively crime-free.The well-lit streets beckon night owls to hit the town after dark to dance the night away, or try their luck at the craps tables in the casino.
paragliding, or parachuting. Fly fishing is also very popular here, and you can book boat fishing tours. Keep in mind that all fishing is catch and release. Are there hostels close to the bus station?
Pedro de Valdivia
Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?
Iglesia Parroquial Santa Cruz
Just a few blocks from the center of town, you can soak up all the UV you want, just don’t forget the 45 SPF block.
Geronimo de Alderete Capitania de Puerto
Museo Mapuce
Is there a golf course nearby?
General Basilio Unutia
There is a nine-hole course on the peninsula, and you can rent a set of clubs in town. Are there shops for outdoor clothing? Yep.You can find some of the big names and quality-made local stuff too.
Av Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins
Can I get my hiking boots or backpack repaired?
Hospital San Francisco
Palguin
a
You bet, it’s smoking 24-7, not unlike some people we know, but that is a good thing. It means the volcano is venting. If it stops smoking, then it’s time to start worrying.
bi
Is the volcano active?
Uruguay Anscrena
If your pack’s broke, you’ve come to the right place. There are places that can solve most gear-related problems.
Brasil
om
Carbs & Adrenaline
Calle Holzapiel
l Co
The Perfect Combo:
There is a small hospital in town with an X-ray machine, and there are a few dentists to choose from. Anything serious is treated in Temuco, about an hour and a half away by car.
Fresia
Aside from visiting the Volcano and rafting, you can enjoy the amazing scenery on horseback,
What if I need a doctor or dentist?
Lincoyan
What else can I do around here?
Most outfitters have everything you need for the activity you want to participate in, and the gear is usually included.
Caupolican
It all depends on the weather and amount of rainfall, but generally speaking, the season is from late September to early April. For the upper Trancura, you’ll have to wait till around December. And remember during the height of the season (about December-February), the rapids can get pretty crowded.
Ra
ei ss
When is the best time to go rafting?
a
ad
ez
Qu
L a Po za
There are three runs, the most exciting being the upper Río Trancura, with class III and IV rapids, depending on the time of the season. The lower Trancura is tamer but still class II-III in most places. You can also do a longer trip of a couple days on Bío Bío through various companies in town.
n mo
to G
Where is the best white water rafting?
n ra
er
All year round, but winter is the best time if you want smaller crowds.
de
Can I rent gear in town?
ne ra Ro b
When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano?
G ya Pla
L a g o Vi l l a r r i c a
ta
Absolutely, there are numerous bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.
ll Ca
You can’t pitch a cat without hitting a hostel in Pucón.
Co s
Is there a night life in Pucón?
Pucon Centro
al
n to ea eP
Colo Colo
questions & answers
Pucón, a quaint town built in the style of a German village, has something for everyone, from the thrill-seeking adrenaline junkie to the couple looking for a romantic getaway. Along with things to see and do, you’ll find accommodation for all budgets, but hop online and book early, because most places fill up fast during the summer months. Pucón explodes with life during the summer months (OctoberMarch), when sunny days, green forests and blue skies, along with the alwaysactive Villarrica Volcano lure the masses. Whether you are looking for a guided ascent of the volcano, trekking in the Villarrica National Park, rafting or kayaking the Class III and IV rapids of Trancura River, or an afternoon horseback
Iglesia Jesus de Nazaret
When was the last time it erupted?
Eschoroenle
Av Las Araucarias
POPULATION: 21,000 FOUNDED: 1883 WHAT’S GROOVY: Snow on the volcano this time of year. JUST IN CASE: 441177 (hospital), 441196 (police)
Arauco
L.A. Ulloa Cemetario
In 1984, but that was nothing major. The time before that was 1974, and 24 people were killed.
Zacarias G Ramon Guinez
Can I get a good map of the trails in Villarrica National Park?
Monasterio Santa Clara
There are good maps available in town for just a few bucks. Are there any good day hikes in the area?
Lincoyan 361
Pucón, Chile
El Barroso Fresia 135a Pucon, Chile Wood Fire Grilled Steaks Chilean Wines
Plenty, with some great views of the volcano, just ask around in town about where to go. Is transportation to the trailheads available? If you use a guide, tranportation is included, but taxis can get you there, too. It’s about $5 USD to go by taxi to the park entrance. Can I drink the water in the Park without treating it?
Is there an entrance fee to the Park? Yep, it’s about $8 bucks. Do I need a permit to camp in the Park? No, there’s no camping fee, but it’s restricted around the volcano. Remember, it is an active volcano!
50 or more guides, who live in Pucón and are always ready to lend a hand to their fellow outdoor enthusiasts. Can I buy white gas and other backpacker essencials in town? Of course, all that stuff is available in town.
What is the winter like?
Where is the closest airport? Temuco, about two hours away by bus.
What are the local indigenous people called?
Super chill. It’s a great scene for winter sports with fewer crowds, and it’s such an incredible experience to ski or board on an active volcano.
Mapuche, and they are very proud of their heritage. They really gave the Spanish a run for their money back in the day.
Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area? In case of a backcountry emergency, contact the carbineros de Chile. They will organize the
Go right ahead, drink all you can and enjoy!
What options are there for public transport? There are buses between the nearby town of Villarrica and Pucón every 15 minutes as well as taxis and colectivos.You can also rent a bike for around $10 USD for the day.
19
Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Patagonia Climbing History 101
T
he name alone quickens the pulse and sets the imagination in motion. Patagonia. It has been a place of adventure, trial and discovery for hundreds of years. A truly unique region, Patagonia has both an astounding environment and an equally engaging history. Dictated mostly by the accumulation, movement, and ablation of ice, Patagonia boasts some of the world’s most sculpted landscapes. From the Torres Del Paine and Los Cuernos to Mt. Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, huge granite towers shroud the area in grandeur. The names of the early explorers of Patagonia read like a who’s who of the international mountaineering community. From the famous English explorers, H.W. Tillman and Eric Shipton, to the Italians, Toni Egger and Cesare Maestri, and countless others, Patagonia has drawn some of the biggest names in climbing to its unique, isolated landscape. With serious climbing expeditions dating back to at least 1914, it took some years before the monster towers of Patagonia were climbed. The 1950s may have been the biggest decade for Patagonian exploration and climbing. In 1952, Mt. Fitzroy saw its first ascent by Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone. Famed English explorer H.W. Tillman completed the first traverse of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field in 27 days in 1955 to 1956, covering 60 kilometers. Eric Shipton, another notable Englishman, completed three large expeditions to the area in 1958, collecting a large number of plant species from remote areas. 1959 saw the now controversial first ascent of Cerro Torre by Italians Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger. Egger died in an avalanche after reportedly reaching the summit. Maestri claimed that the camera was taken away with Egger. Although Egger’s body was found in subsequent years, no camera or any other evidence of their reaching the summit has ever been produced. With well over 20 attempts to repeat this route, no one to this day has been able to conquer the upper north face, adding some doubt about the first ascent. In 1959, Shipton completed another expedition near the Southern Ice Field, rediscovering the Lautaro Volcano, which had been forgotten for 30 years. Subsequent years saw more and more exploration and first ascents by Shipton and his peers. Patagonia has now become an international destination for any serious climber looking for long alpine routes. The weather is most often the limiting factor of the climbs. First ascents are still being seen every year, not only on new routes on previously summited peaks, but also on peaks that have never before been climbed. The development of Patagonia as a testing ground for up-and-coming climbers will be interesting to watch in the years to come, as more and more routes are added to climber’s tick lists. The climbing history of Patagonia, however, is only a small part of the region’s identity.
First reached by Westerners in the 1520s, Patagonia has always been a place of adventure and wild imagination. Magellan’s famous circumnavigation of the globe brought Patagonia into contact with the rest of the world. Magellan’s crew, the few that survived anyhow, would spread the fame of the Patagones, or the big-feet. The Patagonian giants, taller than a galleon, clad with animal skins and speaking in strange tongues, were sought after for many years by any sailor coming through the straits near Tierra del Fuego. In reality, however, pre-contact times saw four major tribes of indigenous people inhabiting this region.The Aonikenk, the Kaweskar, the Yamana and the Selk’nam lived in the different regions of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. Unfortunately paralleling the story of North American native tribes, these indigenous people faced constant relocation to various reservations, as well as diseases that severely reduced their populations. Some early anthropological studies, however, were able to document the elaborate ceremonial lives of some of these tribes. Another famous expedition to come to Patagonia was headed by an ambitious captain of the British navy. Robert Fitzroy took two trips to Patagonia aboard the Beagle. Although Fitzroy played a large role in surveying much of Patagonia and in the development of modern day meteorology, the Beagle is perhaps most well-known for its second journey, when a young man named Charles Darwin accompanied the ship as a naturalist. Many sailors would come to see the rugged coastline of Patagonia as the straits near Tierra del Fuego made it an important trading route. Being one of the most viable trade routes to and from the west coast of North America, Punta Arenas, established in 1848, quickly became an important port town during the California gold rush. It was however not Californian gold, but the “white gold of Magellan” that brought true prosperity to the region. Sheep were introduced to the area between 1852 and 1877, and with the vast plains of eastern Patagonia, wool quickly became the primary product of the area. The wealth of the city is seen in the various mansions, artwork, and delicate architecture of Punta Arenas. The wealth of the city declined, however, almost as quickly as it developed. As a port city, Punta Arenas relied heavily on trade. Ships from all over the world would come through, leaving goods from around the world and taking away raw materials, such as wool. With the opening of the Panama Canal, however, this region was quickly forgotten as a trade route. Today, many of the cities in Patagonia rely heavily on tourism. Towns like Puerto Natales, only miles from the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park, cater to largely seasonal crowds who come to walk and wonder at the rugged mountains of this famous part of the globe. The governments
By Jon Shea
Climbers from around the world flock to Patagonia, to follow in the footsteps of the greats. of both Chile and Argentina have both recognized the value the unique region and have taken steps to ensure its preservation. Nahuel Huapi National Park in Bariloche, Argentina, created in 1922, was the first national park established in South America. It occupies 785,000 hectares of Patagonian steppe and Andean forest and exemplifies the mountainous environment characteristic of Patagonia. Los Glaciares National Park near Calafate, is another important Argentine park, covering 600,000 hectares. Designated a world heritage site in 1981 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, Los Glaciares is home to Mt. Fitzroy and Perito Moreno Glacier, with an 80-meter ice cliff. In Chile,Torres del Paine National Park, established in 1959, is the most popular of the Patagonian parks. In 1978, UNESCO declared this park a world biosphere reserve. Laguna San Rafael National Park is another important national park, located on Chile’s coast. It alone encompasses more that 1.7 million hectares and is home to the tallest peak in the southern Andes, Mt. San Valentín, at 4,058 meters. The austere but astounding landscape of Patagonia has attracted many conservation groups.
Perhaps the most recognized of these groups is Patagonia, Ltd., a clothing company. Started by world famous climber Yvonn Chouinard, Patagonia pledges one percent of its profits to conservation efforts in the area.After retiring in 1993 from her CEO position with the Patagonia clothing company, Kristine Tompkins moved to Chilean Patagonia. In 2000, she founded the Patagonia Land Trust, now known as Conservación Patagonica, in order to raise funds to protect natural areas in Patagonia. It has saved over 1.4 million acres in Chile’s Valdivian rainforest and Argentina’s Esteros wetlands, and in 2002, made possible the designation of Argentina’s first coastal national park, Monte Leon, with a 1.7 million dollar donation. As the tourism industry grows in the area, the governments of both Chile and Argentina will be faced with new issues surrounding the preservation of Patagonia’s unique environment. And the various conservation groups and the international outdoor community will play a large role in shaping the future of this distinct region.
Alberto D’Agostini: “El Explorador” Hacia fines del siglo XIX la Patagonia austral se incorporó al mundo occidental. Entre 1881 y 1904 se definieron los límites fronterizos entre Argentina y Chile, se exploró gran parte del territorio, la ocupación del paisaje se estructuró a partir de grandes estancias ovejeras y surgieron los primeros centros urbanos de importancia, en particular Punta Arenas, cabeza de la región y punto de llegada de inmigrantes europeos y chilotes. Con los primeros colonos llegaron también los sacerdotes. La orden salesiana, llegó a la región en 1890, instaló una amplia red de establecimientos educacionales, parroquias y misiones indígenas, y contribuyó de manera significativa al desarrollo cultural de la Patagonia. Entre sus miembros, destacó el sacerdote italiano Alberto de Agostini, quien aportó de manera significativa
a la exploración de las cordilleras patagónicas y al conocimiento de la región en el mundo, a través de fotografías, libros y películas que se difundieron por el viejo continente. Nacido en 1883 en un pueblo de los Alpes italianos, Agostini llegó a Punta Arenas en 1910. Rápidamente se integró a las diversas obras que la orden salesiana tenía en la región, y se destacó por su infatigable labor de explorador, fotógrafo y documentalista. Durante más de treinta años, exploró los macizos montañosos de Tierra del Fuego y la Patagonia Austral, internándose por los rincones más apartados de la región. Entre 1913 y 1924 realizó diversas expediciones a través de la cordillera Darwin, al sur de Tierra del Fuego, e intentó sin éxito subir el monte Sarmiento, el más alto de la isla. Asimismo, inició el reconocimiento del macizo
del Paine. Entre 1928 y 1932, Agostini exploró la vertiente oriental del gran Campo de Hielo Sur, realizando la primera travesía a través de éste. En los años posteriores, su atención se concentró en el macizo Fitz-Roy, al nororiente de Campo de Hielo Sur, y en el monte San Lorenzo, el segundo más alto de la Patagonia. En 1943, tras varias expediciones de reconocimiento, Agostini logró ascender el San Lorenzo, lo que se transformó en un hito en la historia del andinismo. Tras un largo período de trabajo en Italia, en 1955 Agostini volvió a la Patagonia y a la edad de 72 años ascendió el monte Sarmiento, en Tierra del Fuego. El legado de Agostini se puede apreciar en las publicaciones, a través de las cuales dio a conocer las montañas patagónicas en Europa, los registros fotográficos y fílmicos que dejó de la región.
De sus fotografías, destacan las de pueblos indígenas, valioso testimonio de etnias hoy desaparecidas y las de los primeros años de la colonización. Al mismo tiempo, fue pionero en la toma de fotografías aéreas en la zona de campo de Hielo Sur, que han sido de gran importancia para el levantamiento cartográfico de la zona, y en el uso de la fotografía en color, de acuerdo a las más modernas tecnologías de la época. Sus películas, por otro lado, constituyen un legado de un valor incalculable, puesto que son los primeros y únicos registros cinematográficos de las pueblos magallánicos y de la región en general. De entre éstas, las más importantes son Tierra del Fuego y Tierras Magallánicas, con las cuales hizo conocida la Patagonia en todo el mundo. www.memoriachilena.cl
September.08
20
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
The Isla Navarino Dientes Circuit Billed as the southernmost trekking opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes Circuit on Isla Navarino is miles beyond any ordinary trekking experience. For 53 kilometers, the route winds through an otherworldly landscape. Mountains broken out from the floor of the ocean. Where the Andes crumble into the Antarctic Plate. Where tenuous passes defy the staggering winds. Where spartan vegetation clings precariously bracing itself against the punishing climate and the manipulations of the introduced beaver. For the serious trekker, the five-day Dientes Circuit is a chance to experience unique terrain at what is literally the last scrap of land before the legendary Cape Horn and Antarctic Sea. And while the route offers many worthy experiences, like awesome views that stretch as far as the Cape Horn straits, it is also impressive for what it lacks, like crowded trails, clearly defined paths, and overcrowded refugios. In fact, there are no refugios on the route.There is not even an entrance fee to pay.Trekkers are only required to check in with the carabineros in Puerto Williams. From there, the trailhead is just three kms from
the tiny village of Puerto Williams with a good possibility that you won’t see anyone else in the course of the circuit. The Dientes Circuit is relatively new, developed in the early ’90s by Lonely Planet trekking guide author Clem Lindemayer. A few of the more prominent peaks along the circuit have been named after him. Cierro Clem, for example, makes an impressive profile and serves as an important landmark. Because of the difficulty of the route and the distance of Isla Navarino from the beaten path, the Dientes Circuit receives a fraction of Chile’s annual trekking visitors.The route was marked with the Chilean numbered trail marker system in early 2001, but it is still far from a well-marked path. The Dientes trekker needs to be selfreliant and good at route finding. The 38 trail points are spread over a 53 km route, with four significant passes to cross and a myriad maze of beaver ponds and dams to negotiate in the valleys between. It is strongly advised to follow the route from Puerto Williams, as the markers are only painted on one side. Since the markers are cairns (rock piles), individual
reservas
By J. Williams
trail markers are often difficult to distinguish from their surroundings without the red signage painted on them to mark the route. Weather is also a strong factor, particulary the strength of the winds that sweep up from the white continent and make the passes, especially the final pass, Paso Virginia, very dangerous. Blasts of wind strong enough to knock a heavily loaded trekker from their feet are not uncommon and come without warning. The Dientes Circuit is broken into five stages, each stage requiring about five hours to complete.With the long daylight hours of the southern hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be tempted to combine two stages into one day. While it is possible to do the circuit in four days, it would involve a day with two passes to surmount or a very long final day, descending from the nearly 900meter Paso Virginia back to sea level, over a distance of 23 kms. The route markers end more than 300 meters above sea level, looking down on Bahia Virginia, and from there, the trekker must negotiate through the cow pastures
@fantas
ic
and calafate bushes to the coastal road. Then hike the final 8 kms of pavement back to Puerto Williams. Passing trucks will often stop for trekkers on the final stretch. Otherwise, it’s about a two-hour walk back to Puerto Williams. Just getting to Isla Navarino is part of the adventure itself. The Patagonian airline company DAP flies a 20-odd seat twin otter from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams daily in the summer.The flight over Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan is incredibly scenic, and oddly enough, the least expensive option. There are, however, other options. Though more expensive than flying, it’s possible to travel by boat from Ushuaia across the Beagle Channel to Puerto Navarino and then travel the 50-odd kms of coastal road east to Puerto Williams. For the truly intrepid traveler, the Punta Arenas-based Transbordadora Austral Broom operates a once a week passenger ferry to Puerto Williams, a 30-hour trip through the Straits of Magellan and along the Beagle Channel. Though spartan in accommodations and service, the passing scenery of hanging glaciers and mountains that float on water truly convey an end of the world sensation.
613410 e 56 61 n o h p o s u r .c o m