Black Sheep Dec 08 by Rustyn Mesdag

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December 2008

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Black Sheep Patagonia December 2008 Volume 4 • Issue 4• www.patagoniablacksheep.com• Cover image by Anthony Riggs

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Newspaper

Pucón! Pride of Patagonia

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December.08

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About Black Sheep - Rustyn Mesdag, publisher

Suscripción Chile valor por 8 meses: $10.000 CLP International cost for 8 months: $50.00 USD Envía tus datos al email: blacksheepchile@gmail.com Inmediatamente nos comunicaremos contigo.

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e are a grass roots travel newspaper, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language paper. We publish eight issues per year, coinciding with Patagonia’s high season, from September to April. Our web site community, with up-to-the-minute info, gives travelers a space to share their experiences. We are expats and locals. We are travelers, and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help them plan their adventures to the bottom of the world. We are backpackers, and we believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We believe in unguided adventure. We sleep in tents, and we camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We hitchhike. We recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being a part of the solution, not the problem. We believe that reggae music can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open & free for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe YOU can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that what you pack in, you pack out. We believe travel is about experience, culture, living like the locals, respecting Pachamama, and going home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe that backpackers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. Black Sheep is a bridge between advertiser and traveler. We search out the hip and reputable tour operators, lodging, restaurants, handicrafts, outdoor stores and mom & pop shops. Businesses that we think are especially groovy merit our stamp of approval, which means they... • Love the environment and practice eco-friendliness in their business • Are locally owned • Give back to the community • Offer something free to customers and quality service The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers.We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.We are:

Bariloche, Argentina:

Publisher/Designer:

Jamie Schectman adiostahoe@gmail.com Shanie Matthews shanie@shaniematthews.com

Rustyn Mesdag editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Director:

Pilar Irribarra sales@patagoniablacksheep.com

Calafate, Argentina:

Editor/Layout:

Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Maria Fourcade negrafourcade@hotmail.com Federico Fourcade pod_smolik@hotmail.com

Graphic Design:

Distribution: Patricio Alderete

Leslie Venti leslie.venti@gmail.com

Special Thanks: Bill Penhollow Isabel Chamorro Patricio Achurra erratic rock Sarah Anderson

Punta Arenas, Chile:

Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com

Puerto Natales, Chile: Carolina “C.J.” Wilson cjwilson07@gmail.com

La Prensa Austral

Pucón & Pto. Varas, Chile:

Cover Image:

Printed by:

Anthony Riggs Pucòn, Chile

Anthony Riggs anthony_riggs66@yahoo.com

© 2008 All rights reserved. The contents of this paper may not be reproduced in whole or in part without consent of the copyright owner. Black Sheep design is a registered trademark. Published by Southern Cross, Ltda. Printed in Chile.

As an immigrant living in Patagonia full time, I’m struck by how lucky I am to have the time it takes to begin seeing all of Patagonia. It’s wonderful to spend five days in Torres del Paine and get a sense of it, but Patagonia is more than trekking, climbing and camping. It’s also world-class kayaking, horseback riding, boating, fishing, bird watching and just plain leisure. Many travelers visit Patagonia on a tight schedule, so they barely get a glimpse of what’s here. I had an experienced friend show me around Patagonia my first time here.Without a few insider tips, most people aren’t even aware of their options. Everyone knows about the ‘W’ in Torres del Paine: the trek from Campamento Grey, on the west side of the Park, down and around into Valle Frances, then down and around again through the Cuernos area, up to the Towers and back down. Then there’s the full circuit: Starting with the ‘W,’ then around the backside to Refugio Dickson, up and down over John Gardner Pass, and back down to Campamento Grey. The 2% of people who do the full circuit when they visit the Park have an undeniable sense of accomplishment. It takes 7-10 days (depending on the pace and drive) and circumnavigates the Park beautifully. But there is more. There is what we consider to be, by far, the way to claim full bragging rights in Torres del Paine. More than the ‘W.’ More than the Circuit. Ladies and gentlemen, may we present to you... ‘The Q.’ This is how it’s done... Day 1: Leaving from Puerto Natales in the morning, take whatever transportation you’ve arranged to the Administration center at the south end of the Park.This is where your adventure begins.The Park stretches in front of you like a dream. By starting your hike here, you truly feel like you’re walking to Torres del Paine, and not being ‘shuttled’ in with the masses. (This part of the trek is not quite as impressive if you do it on the way out, because the views lay behind you.) Most trekkers access the park from the Las Torres area and take the catamaran across Lago Pehoe. If you take public transportation, you will probably arrive around 1 p.m. Check out the visitor’s center at Administration. By the time you are ready to roll, assume it’s 3 p.m. At this point, your pack will be at its heaviest, day one of what might be a 10 day trip.Trek for two hours and make camp at the free campsite, Las Carrettas. It makes for an early camp, but with your pack being at its heaviest, just enjoy the short day. Day 2: Starting much earlier than the day before, trek up toward Lago Pehoe, approximately four hours, then push on another two hours to the free campsite, Campamento Italiano. Italiano is a magnificent camp area and sits at the mouth of spectacular Valle Frances. Day 3: This morning, leave the tent, extra food, sleeping bag and mat behind. Load your backpack with some food, rain gear, camera, and just a few basics, and head up into Valle Frances light. It’s a steep hike, so going light is nice. The valley offers natural lookouts, so even if you don’t make it to the very end of the valley, you will understand what all the hype is about. Keep an eye on the time and head down to the camp again by around 4 p.m. Then pack up your camp and progress to Refugio Los Cuernos.This is good spot to spend night three. Day 4: Today, haul your loaded pack all the way around and up to the free campsite Las Torres. This will be a long day, approximately 7-9 hours, depending on how fast you walk and how many times you stop. The signs will direct you to Refugio Chileno, but one hour further, the campsite is free. Chileno is a beautiful spot and it’s tempting to call it a day and camp there. But the following morning you’ll wake before dawn to try to see the towers in their breathtaking, red morning glow. The early morning trek to the lookout takes at least 45 minutes from Campamento Las Torres, or 1:45 from Chileno, and then you have to factor in the darkness which makes it more like 2:15. (Talking pre-dawn, I choose the shorter of the options). Day 5: Wake up this morning around 4:30 a.m. (fun!). No matter what the weather is like, at 4:30 in the morning, it will be friggin’ cold. Most people wrap

themselves up in hats and jackets before heading up the dark trail to the outlook. It only takes minutes before their body tempature shoots through the roof and they start to sweat like true athletes. By the time they get to the mirador, they are a sweaty mess, the body cools down, the wind hits them, and they start to get really cold. They snap a photo or two, then have to head back down to camp to get warm again.This is not the idea.You need to anticipate this problem and hike up the trail without tons of clothes on. On this morning, leave your camp behind. Only bring your packs loaded with the coats you’re not wearing, your sleeping mat, sleeping bag, and breakfast stuff. When you reach the top, all of your sweat will have evaporated.Throw on your warm cloths, put down your sleeping mats (so you don’t have to sit on an ice cold rock), and even crawl into your sleeping bags, to truly enjoy the Towers at dawn, warm and toasty. To top it all off, fire up your stoves and make your morning coffee. There’s no better way to enjoy this very special morning. After a couple of hours (long after everyone else has bailed due to cold), you have soaked it all in, and you head back to camp. Pack up and have a nice, downhill trek to the campsite next to Refugio Las Torres. You’ll arrive to the campsite around 1 p.m. It’ll seem like there is plenty of time to continue on, but remember you woke that morning at 4:30 a.m. It’s already been a long day. You close the book on the ‘W,’ repack, reassess, maybe buy some things from the little store near Hostería Las Torres (to fill in some of the blanks for the back circuit), and call it a day. This is a paid camping area and cost 3.500 pesos per person. Day 6: Today, you start the back circuit, early and refreshed. And it’s a good thing because you have an 8-10 hour trek to Refugio Dickson. When looking at a map, it seems like a huge distance, but the terrain is milder then the ‘W’ and you cover a lot of ground fast. It’s a much different experience than the ‘W.’ Day 7: Today, you progress to Campamento Perros.There is no refugio here, but you still have to pay for camping. It seems like a short day and people tend to think that they could push on further. We wouldn’t suggest it. (Not to put any limits on anyone.) Last year a guy ran the entire ‘W’and circuit in 18 hours, so anything is possible. But as a general rule, stopping at Perros for night is the way to go. Day 8:This is the day of The Pass. The hardest thing about the Paso John Gardner is the wind.The terrain is manageable, and the view from the pass is unmatched. The view of Glacier Grey (and the Patagonian Ice Field on a clear day) is one of the most amazing moments you’ll experience in Patagonia, hands down. When you head down the pass, you’ll have to decide where to camp. There are two free campsite after coming down off the pass. Staying at the Campamento Guardes is a nice way to shorten the day, and it offers more views of the glacier from above.Truly a beautiful camp… and free! Day 9:This could be your final day in the Park. If you hurry, you can make it to the mid-day catamaran at 12:30 p.m. If you just want to enjoy the final day at an easier pace, there’s a boat at 6:30 p.m. Or maybe camping one more day suits you better. But in either case, you just puilled off the full ‘Q’! Congratulations, you are officially on a very small list of Q’ers. Now personally, if I am doing anything for 9-10 days straight, there is a good chance that the ‘X’ factor with come into play.The ‘X’ factor being some very Patagonian change of plans that you never anticipated. I always give myself one extra day just this reason. It might be a bad weather day where I just don’t want to submit myself to, or maybe a good weather day where I don’t want to to budge. Maybe it’s an injury day, or maybe you finally meet your soul mate, right here in Torres del Paine. That’s a good reason not to have to keep to some rigid schedule. Any way you look at it, you have a day to play with. That means out on day 10, and 10 days of trekking earns you some serious bragging rights. If you weren’t experienced before, you will be experienced when you get out. Baptism by fire, Patagonia style.

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Patagonia Bus Schedules Schedules may alter slightly for the winter season. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions. Note: During daylight savings time, there is a time difference between Chile and Argentina.

Chile / Argentina Buses Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos

Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas

Buses Ghisoni Ph. 613420 L. Navarro 975

Mon. & Wed. thru Sat. 11.00

Buses Ghisoni Terminal Río Gallegos

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Tue., Fri., Sun. 11.30

Buses Pacheco Terminal Río Gallegos

Tues. & Thu. thru Sun. 12.00 Mon., Wed., Sat. 12.00

Punta Arenas - Ushuaia

Ushuaia - Punta Arenas

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Tues., Thurs., Sun. 09.00

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Mon., Wed., Fri. 08.00

Tecni Austral Ph. 613422 L. Navarro 975

Tue., Thu., Sat. 07.30

Tecni Austral Roca 157

Mon., Wed., Fri. 05.30

Puerto Natales - Ushuaia

Ushuaia - Puerto Natales

Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Tues., Thurs., Sun. 07.30 (with a bus change near PA)

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas

Mon., Wed., Fri. 08.00 (with a bus change near PA)

Puerto Natales – Torres

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Torres

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Paine – Puerto Natales

Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

Note: Please check with bus companies directly for updated information.

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales

Buses Fernandez Ph. 411111 E. Ramírez 399

07.15 09.00 13.00 14.30

17.00 18.30 20.00

Buses Fernandez Ph. 221812 A. Sanhueza 745

08.00 09.00 13.00 14.30

17.00 18.30 20.00

Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Baquedano 500

07.30 08.30 10.00

16.30 18.00 19.30

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

08.30 10.00 14.00

16.30 18.00 19.30

Bus Sur Ph. 411859 Baquedano 668

M-Th.: 07.00 & 15.00 Fri.-Sun.: 07.15 & 19.00

Bus Sur Ph. 614224 José Menéndez 552

Tues-Thur.: 15.00 & 19.00 Fri.-Mon.: 09.15 & 19.00

Puerto Natales - El Calafate

El Calafate - Puerto Natales

Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456

Cootra Terminal de Ómnibus

Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236

Torres del Paine Buses

Daily 07.30 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00

Zaajh Terminal de Ómnibus

Santiago

Daily 08.30 M, F & Sun.: 08.00

El Calafate - El Chaltén

El Chaltén - El Calafate

Chaltén Travel Ph. 491833 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 08.00, 13.30, 18.30

Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande

Daily 07.30, 18.00

CalTur Ph. 491842 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 08.00

CalTur Avenida San Martín 520

Daily 15.00

Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus

M, W, F: 17.30

Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande

T, Th, Sat.: 07.30

El Calafate - Río Gallegos

Río Gallegos - El Calafate

Sportsman Ph. 492680 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 12.30

Sportsman Ph. 442595 Rancho Grande

Daily 20.00

Taqsa Ph. 491843 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 12.00, 14.30

Taqsa Ph. 423130 Rancho Grande

Daily 12.00, 14.00

Interlagos Ph. 491273 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 04.00

Interlagos Ph. 442080 Terminal de Ómnibus

Daily 13.30

www.andeshostel.com (56-2) 632 9990 - 632 9173

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Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential

questions & answers

Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the

What’s the Park entrance fee? D go La

What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m. In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park at 2 p.m., más o menos. Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.

Torres del Paine Refugio Information Prices are in U.S. dollars*

Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.

Torres d del Paine National tion ional Park

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park entrance Lago

jold ensk Nörd

Lago Pehoe

c amping iento Sarm Lago

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Lago Verde

Sierra del Toro

Lago del Toro

Cerro Castillo

Pueblito Río Serrano

s iggin O’H ardo l Park n r e a B n Natio Puerto Toro

Últim

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Is it better to trek the park clockwise or counterclockwise?

Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 albergue@lastorres.com

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Fjor d

Argentina

What’s the latest I can start a trek in the Park?

Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.

C amp o del Hielo Sur - Patagonian S outhern Ice Field

How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.

How much money should I carry into the Park with me? 15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios.

Lago

ine el Pa rk a ed d Torr tional P a N

G l a c i er Gre y

ey Gr go La

How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.

Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas.

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n so

What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.

How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free.

Lago

ick

15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD).

don Milo Cave

Puerto Natales

You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.

Vertice +56-61 412742 ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Breakfast

$10.00

Dorm bed

$40.00

Lunch

$14.00

Campsite

$8.00

Dinner

$18.00

Sleeping bag

$9.00

Full board

$80.00

2-person tent $14.00 Mattress

standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.

$3.00

*Prices are approximate and may be slightly higher at some refugios. Note: Schedules often change at the start of the season. Check with the refugio companies directly for the latest info for openings and closures.

How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the Park? It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.

Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.

Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?

Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples.

Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season. Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.

Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food. Should I worry about bugs in the Park? You will see bugs on the back circuit if there is no wind and some warmer weather. Bug repellent is a good idea.

Do I have to worry about making my reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine? Yes. For now, in early season, make sure to talk to the office you bought your ticket at, and speak to the driver - just to be sure. It becomes easier in mid-season. How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.

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Women Adventurers Breaking Through By Miho Aida Think of one thing you enjoy doing outside. Now think about how you got into it. Most people have role models: parents, siblings, friends, teachers. Or they find role models through the media. I work for the Headlands Institute, a nonprofit environmental education organization near San Francisco, California. We try to make multicultural connections in everything we teach, using diverse environmental models, so our students can relate and be inspired. The more you see role models who you can relate to, the more you believe that you have the same potential. There are many ways that people make connections to nature. I, for example, have developed a deep connection to the natural world through outdoor adventures like climbing, surfing, and backcountry skiing. So I read magazines such as “Climbing,” “Surfing,” and “Outside.” to see what’s up with these communities and activities. It didn’t take me long to wonder why all the athletes always look the same. They’re mostly all male. It’s even harder to find female athletes of different origins, colors, abilities, ages, shapes, and sizes. Does this mean that we don’t have as many female outdoor athletes? Or do we just not see them? These publications send an important message, whether intentional or not, that these sports are inaccessible to many people, especially women. But there are lots of diverse women outdoor athletes from around the world who are waiting to have their stories be told. I’m working as that that person, the adventure photographer, who tracks down these women and shares their images and their stories. Adventurers come in two genders, in many different

colors, and from many different backgrounds. And people from all walks of life should be able to see themselves in wilderness sports. I’m hoping to demystify outdoor adventures to women and men. I came to Puerto Natales, Chile, to look for women sea kayakers. I asked around town, and heard the name, Cote Marchant, from several people. She is supposedly the only woman sea kayaking guide in town. I visited her at Indomita, the kayaking company where she works. She listened to my project goals carefully and asked, “How can I support your project?” I was soon signed up for a day trip to Fjord Eberhard to see her work for the next day. A few days later, I was on another trip, an overnighter to Glacier Balmaceda and Río Serrano. This provided me a bigger picture of what it’s like to be a kayaking guide, because there’s a whole other element of taking care of people off the water. I listened to her, as I helped her set up a camp, prepare meals, wash dishes, move heavy kayaks, and put away equipment. “It’s not that I can’t do it, I can do the same thing, but not in a same way [as men].” Her story is truly inspiring, especially for those who grew up in big cities with limited access to outdoor adventures. “I’m not blaming my parents for not giving me the opportunity,” said Cote. “If I ever have my own children, the first thing I am going to teach them is how precious it is to have this beautiful world around us. I would tell them that this is the best thing you have and one of the best teachers in life.” Cote tirelessly worked to break the mold against women in outdoor sports, while establishing her place as a sea kayaking guide at Indomita. “The ways [women] do things is different,” says Cote.“Our

thinking process and logic are different. Women can better understand how hormones and emotions affect your days, for example. This is the reason why I think it would be easier to work with women.” Not only would it make Cote’s work easier, but I also think women guides can connect with women clients at a different level, providing a safe place for them to make mistakes and challenge themselves without feeling intimidated by a male presence. (Though, of course, many of you ladies have no problem with this!) My friend, Erik, who has taught many climbing courses at NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School), once told me that whenever there was a female climbing instructor, he observed that the female students climbed better. He thinks it’s because people learn better from someone who’s like them, someone who moves, thinks, and does things similarly, and who shows you how. “I am trying to start something to motivate women to join me in the guiding community by talking to the Asociación de Guías Última Esperanza (a guide association of Última Esperanza Province). Kayaking might be difficult because it is such demanding work. You have to be certified, take care of people, always dealing with weather and lifting weight. But I want to see more women join me, and I want to create some support for those who want to try,” says Cote. Just as many pioneer outdoor athletes-women and men--have paved the road for those to follow, Cote has certainly created a path for other women to follow her here in Puerto Natales. When I come back to Puerto Natales to paddle with her in the future, I hope I’ll find her with more women in the field.

feminine hygiene on the trail On the trail it’s important to have a plan for that special time of the month. A change in environment, physical exercise and the stresses attached to these things can sometimes lead to changes in a woman’s cycle, including early or late cycle start, cessation or a heavier flow. While there is no permanent worry in either case, it’s a good idea to be prepared. Experienced female guides typically carry extra sanitary material, just in case. In general carrying one-third more tampons or pads is a safe bet, even if you’re not expecting your cycle to come while you’re in the woods. For disposal, the same rules of waste apply: Pack it in. Pack it out. Do not bury tampons or pads! Aside from the fact that they take a long time to biodegrade, they also present a fire hazard if they become unburied. A doubled, resealable plastic bag works well. Place this bag system into a small stuff sack to keep it private. If you’re worried about smell, try crushing a regular aspirin and sprinkling it into the bag. As far as peeing in the woods is concerned, men may not need to worry about toilet paper, but women take such things into consideration. Carrying a constant supply of toilet paper, always ready and handy, can be inconvenient. Plus, it’s more weight to carry. Consider reusing a bandana or special cloth as a pee rag. It may sound gross, but when it will dry out when you lay it in the sun or tie to the back of your rucksack on a warm day. The rag will be sterilized and dry enough to reuse until you get it to camp for a wash.

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Pisco Sour, your Thinking globally. Acting locally. post-trail cocktail D r i n k yo u r f i l l o f wat e r While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you’d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp in mild weather would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: Clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that’s different. If you’re feeling thirsty, then you’re already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also signs of dehydration. Take time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It’s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a liter in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it’s so important to drink continually all day. Torres del Paine is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So, bottoms up!

In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it’s delicious. There’s a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. You might even taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (Yes, there’s a lot of meat... good luck if you’re a vegetarian!) But you’ll also find good, strong drinks and a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. There are many pisco-mixed drinks out there, piscola (pisco and coke) being one of the most common. Pisco sour is the most popular pisco drink among tourists. It’s a good idea to try pisco sours at different places, because each restaurant or bar has their own touch or flavor.You can even find delicious calafate sour based on the same mix. But you can also make pisco sour yourself, in your hostel or once you get home. Pisco Sour • 3 parts pisco • 1 part lemon juice • Powdered sugar • 1 egg white • Ice cubes Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it’s a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so pucker up and enjoy!

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS 2008-2009 Season Schedule

Dates

From Pudeto

From Refugio Pehoe

November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009

09.30* 12.00 18.00

10.00* 12.30 18.30

March 16 - 31, 2009

12.00 18.00

12.30 18.30

April 2009

12.00

12.30

*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2008 & 01/01/2009.

One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person

Photo by Agata Malchrowicz

f you’ve traveled all the way to Patagonia, you’re probably here to experience the natural beauty of the region. The Parks are popular for their pristineness. But not for long, what with the unstoppable advance of people. With this in mind, we’ve compiled some conservation tips to help lessen the compact we have during our travels. • 1. If the water supply is drinkable, refill your water bottle from the tap (or in many of the regional parks from any of the fast-flowing mountain streams), rather than buy new plastic bottles of mineral water each time. Plastics are derived from nonrenewable resources, processed using extensive chemical treatments, so as well as being nonbiodegradable, they are very environmentally damaging to produce. Every plastic bottle you throw away is a waste of precious resources. • 2. Dispose of used batteries responsibly. Discarded batteries, once they start to break down, leak metals and poisons which can enter watercourses and kill plants and wildlife. Even throwing your batteries in the bin means they end up in a landfill site or worse, disposed of offshore. • 3. Avoid buying prepackaged food in the supermarket. Buy loose fruit, vegetables and meat to cut down on the packaging you consume. Packaging uses a lot of natural resources and generally goes straight into the garbage bin once you get home. • 4. Take your own bag or backpack to the supermarket so you don’t need to use the plastic bags provided. Plastic bags cannot be recycled and take hundreds of years to biodegrade, so every one you use is adding to the millions that exist already, filling landfills and littering the countryside.

Once you get back home, give some of these tips a whirl... •

• •

•

1. Insulate your home as efficiently as possible. In addtion to using less of the planet’s resources, you’ll save cash in reduced heating bills. Check to see if your government offers grants for home insulation or upgrades to heating systems to help meet the emissions targets set by the Kyoto agreement and others. 2. Energy-saving light bulbs are a good step. Combine them with some funky lampshades and they can be pretty hip, to boot. 3. Look into sources of “green” energy for your home. The majority of household electricity still uses fossil fuels and generates harmful greenhouse gases. Harvesting solar or wind power on a small, domestic scale may be expensive, but some countries have green energy providers, who generate their power through renewable source. 4. The fewer resources you use the better, but we all use some. So try to recycle as much as possible, be it paper, glass, plastic, tin or any other material. 5. One of the biggest culprits of environmental damage is travel, especially air travel. As most of us here are far from home and will need to take at least one flight to get back to family and friends, we’ll avoid the guilt trip here. One way to make amends is to join a “carbon neutralization” or “carbon-sink” scheme, in which you can pay for trees to be planted on your behalf to absorb carbon released into the environment as a result of your action. Have a look at www.futureforests.com or www.CO2. org for more information.

Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net

H o s t e r i a

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...

L ago del T oro

Laundry, Transfers, Horse riding

Like home... Hosteria Fono: 56 61 412481 Reservas Fono:56 61 220014 (Punta Arenas)

Río Serrano, Patagonia hosteria@lagodeltoro.com www.lagodeltoro.com

Puerto Natales w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Puerto Natales is a city in Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park. It is the capital of Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region.

Torres del Paine questions?

Support your local revolution...

Get your Black Sheep issue uniform now. La Maddera Outdoor

Bulnes 495 Puerto Natales, Chile

ore Mira

a aced Balm

Black Sheep T-shirts for sale!

llos

ri Chor

mora B.Za

It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.

rino

Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place?

a Galv

1.000 pesos within city limits.

o edan

Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes).

How much do the taxis cost?

Baqu

Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them?

Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...

z mire E.Ra

The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores.

And all of the dogs running around?

gins

g O‘Hi

Where can I buy white gas?

Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo.

gins

g O‘Hi

cala B.En

Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively.

What about recycling programs?

at A.Pr

Where can I buy camping food in town?

Why is there so much trash on the beach?

ralda

Esme

es allan

Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591.

lnes M. Bu

Mag

Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day?

ard

h Eber

Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up.

nto C.Pi

A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine.

Borie

What the heck is a “Zodiac”?

Señ

at ale s

B.Ph ilip

riller Lad

Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt.

oret

gers T.Ro

What are the winters like around here?

Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories

es allan

If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning?

Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G.

tero N

Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea

Mag

What about shopping hours midday?

Puerto Natales, Chile

ana B.Ar

This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop.

Canal Señoret

Mon t t

A free information seminar is held every day at erratic rock hostel at 3 p.m. -Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales. Everything is covered, from refugio info to free campsites, meals to equipment. This hour-long talk is given in English and comes with a smile.

If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day?

What is Navimag?

Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Torres del Paine, there are all kinds of day tours that you can booked from the various agencies in the downtown area.

Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawéskar tribe, or Alacaluf, and the Aonikenk, or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the

questions & answers

This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A.

Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, the livelihood of Puerto Natales relies on tourism.

Ped ro

ay Yung

Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?

Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else?

Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.

Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang. Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.

happ ie r fee t Before undertaking a multi-day trek consider this: new socks, old shoes. It’s not a good time to see if those new shoes work. SOCKS: It’s amazing how important sock selection is when engaged in an long day hike or multi-day trek. The coarse threads of hiking socks eventually begin to dig into your skin causing discomfort and blisters. Avoid this by wearing a thin nylon liner sock as a first layer. Any pair of light socks will do in a pinch. Bring an extra pair for replacement half way. There’s something refreshing about putting on a pair of socks half-way through a killer hike. Waterproof socks can do more damage than good. These unbreathable socks will hold all the sweat and moisture against your skin, giving you blisters and hot spots. SHOES: The success and enjoyment of a serious trek is directly related to your shoe selection. Choose light, flexible shoes over stiff, heavy hiking boots. Every pound of shoe is the equivalent to carrying 7-9 pounds on your back. Minimize shoe weight by selecting a cross-trainer with ankle support, a trail-running shoe, or one of the lighter hiking shoes that are readily available. When you go shopping for “hiking” shoes, you’ll likely be encouraged to buy something with “great ankle support” and a steel shank so you won’t “feel the rocks.” This makes sense if you’re planning to carry a 60-pound pack and trekking through scree (small rocks) or other rugged terrain. However, if you’re staying on established trails, lighter, more flexible shoes are fine.

December.08

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Miraflores 798 Phone 83511728

Interns needed in Patagonia

SOSIEGO HOSTEL puerto natales, chile www.elsosiego.net chamorromilosevic@yahoo.es

The Milodon Laundry Service

Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Closed Sundays. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales, Chile

AquaNativa Sea Kayaking Eberhard 161 Puerto Natales,Chile ph 414143

T OORE Kayak. r a B Eberhard 169 • Puerto Natales, Chile

www.aquanativapatagonia.com

eat. drink. drink. drink. drink. DANCE!

torres del paine tested in patagonia

bar.toore@gmail.com

New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310

It’s the start of the Patagonian high season, summer in the southern hemisphere. Thousands of people are backpacking through Patagonia right now, but most of them are strapped for time and only plan to spend a few days in each place. If you’re not on a whirlwind ultra-planned tour, this article is talking to you. Maybe you have already visited Torres del Paine National Park and Puerto Natales. You loved the small town vibe at the end of the world, the excitement of trekkers heading into the Park.Or you’re reading this article before you’ve made it to Natales or Paine. Either way, you’re in luck. erratic rock hostel in Puerto Natales, Chile, is now accepting applications for volunteer interns for the 2008/09 season.Volunteers exchange room and board for living and working in Patagonia. Minimum time slots begin at month-long stays. This hip hostel is looking for backpackers and nice people. A good attitude and sense of humor are essential. Smiley good energy, a plus. Other requirements include willingness to jump in and help with a variety of tasks, whether it be dishing out Torres del Paine or hostel info, rental center duties and just general helping folks feel at home. You should like talking to people and helping fellow travelers plan their adventures. The erractic rock volunteer program started four years ago, and they’ve since housed

erratic rock is an equal opportunity employer. Accepting applications. travelers from all over the world. The internship has evolved and now works with universities, transforming work experience in a Patagonian hostel into college credit. For more information, visit the erratic rock web site (www.erraticrock.com), call them at +56-61 410355 or visit the owners, Bill and Rustyn, directly at the hostel, Baquedano 719. Volunteering and interning is not a new trend. There are organizations around Chile working with internationals to help facilitate this type of travel. For more information about interning or working holidays in Chile, check out these web sites: www.chileinside.cl or www.contactchile.cl.

Where are you gonna be at 3? Free Torres del Paine Trekking Seminar By Heather Poyhonen

ere at Black Sheep, we award our seal of approval to businesses who give something free to their customers. The 3 o’clock talk at Erratic Rock hostel is a perfect example of this. Bill Penhollow and Rustyn Mesdag say they started the seminar basically because they had to answer all the same questions over and over throughout the day anyway. “Why not offer up all the informational goodies in one well-orgainzed sitting?” The two Oregon natives saw the information defecit and decided to fill it. “Traveling to the southern tip of the world to go trekking already takes a certain amount of dedication,” says Rustyn.“Once people arrive this far south, why make traveling any more difficult than it already is? Why not give folks the information that the guidebooks didn’t?” Essentially the talks cover all the info that Bill and Rustyn wish they had when they first got to Patagonia. It’s a simple enough concept: backpackers helping backpackers. That’s how it should be. They give the seminars seven days a week, all season long. The daily run down covers it all, starting from how to get to the Park, all the logistics you’ll need to know to hike the W trek (4-5 days), the full circuit (8-10 days) or other shorter treks for people who are on a tighter schedule. You’ll learn, for example, why approaching the treks counterclockwise is the better route, as it eases you into the treks and gives you the less strenuous days when your pack is heaviest and the more difficult days as your pack gets lighter.You’ll find out what’s possible in the Park (What are the trails like? Can you rent tents from the refugios? Can you use the refugio kitchens? What does your camping fee get you? Which campsites are free? Can you really drink water straight from the river? Do you have to worry about snakes, poisonous bugs or flying dinosaurs?). You’ll also hear the latest rucksack reports, like if the couple who just arrived back from the Park yesterday saw a puma or trudged through knee-deep snow in Valle del Frances. If you’re not sure how to pack your backpack, no problem. Each

session provides tips on traveling light as well as how to stuff and--most importantly--waterproof your pack. A lot of people who come down here aren’t necessarily experienced backpackers, but that doesn’t mean they can’t tackle the W.The gear part of the seminar goes over all the equipment you might need, down to how much gas to carry, depending on the size of your group. They discuss how to plan your meals, go about your food shop and pack your grub. The idea is to go as light as possible and return to town without having lugged a bunch of extra food or unused fuel with you to the mountains. Part of the magic of the info seminars is how welcoming and hospitible they are (not to mention funny and entertaining). Every one is welcome! You don’t have to be staying at Erratic Rock or one of their hostels to attend the talk. The talks are in English, however talks in Spanish can also be arranged. When you arrive, one of the ER staff will invite you to a cup of freshly brewed coffee or tea.You’ll be asked to check out the Q&A in Black Sheep, just to familiarize yourself with the basics. If you’re traveling alone, the talks are also a great way to find yourself a trekking partner, someone who you can share your trek with as well as gear. Trekking with a partner lightens your load, as you’ll divvy up the tent, food and equipment weight. If you’re renting gear, it’s also lighter on the pocketbook, since you’ll split the cost of, say, renting a tent. Attending the 3 o’clock talk is the equivalent of taking a backcountry course, given by real mountain guides who happen to have landed in Patagonia. Aside from logistics and how-to’s, the seminar’s main focus is how to prepare yourself and avoid trail stresses, especially those related to the foul weather typical of this region.The idea is to give you everything you need so you can get dirtier boots, in Patagonia and wherever your journeys lead you.

Puerto Natales

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Black Sheep Spotlight:

Sendero Alacalufe Navegaciones En la zona de canales y fiordos de la Patagonia chilena en la Provincia de Ultima Esperanza, cerca de la ciudad de Pto. Natales se encuentra un Área Silvestre Protegida denomina “Reserva Nacional Alacalufe,” esta área se caracteriza por su gran extensión de mas de 2.300.000 hectáreas de paisajes prístinos que envuelven a quien visita esta zona entre pequeñas islas, laberinto de canales, hermosos fiordos y glaciares y vista a caprichosas montañas, en donde el clima templado de frío y tundra con altas precipitaciones ofrece una rica vegetación con distintas especies como herbazales, matorrales, coigüe y túrbales. Esta área ha sido poco visitada por las dificultades que significan el acceso y las características climáticas, además por su abrupta y desafiante geografía. Actualmente la única forma de acceso es por vía marítima desde el centro poblado y de servicios turísticos mas cercano, Pto. Natales tomando desde aquí la excursión que invita a quien busca naturaleza, vivir una gran experiencia de retorno a un mundo que se mantiene en estado puro y silvestre como en la época de los nativos pueblos de la Patagonia, específicamente del pueblo Alacalufe que surcaban los canales y esteros haciendo rutas por los fiordos al igual que los actuales pescadores artesanales que hoy en día siguen el sendero de los alacalufes, guiándose por las huellas de estos habitantes que han dejado impregnado en el paisaje el sentimiento de protección de su territorio, dejando como guardián de sus recorridos al hombre que en forma tradicional y sin causar daño busca el sustento para su familia apoyado de la inmensidad de virtudes que regala los canales de la Patagonia. Siguiendo por este camino interior de un poco más de 40 Km. se puede apreciar bosques de

lengas y zonas húmedas con hermosos túrbales hasta llegar a “Estancia Mercedes” para un breve descanso que permite descubrir en detalle hasta donde ha podido llegar la influencia de la ganadería junto con disfrutar la hermosa flora y fauna costera. El Estero Resi se navega en una embarcación tradicional de los pescadores artesanales de la zona que se ha reconvertido al turismo, recorriendo varios puntos de observación de hábitat marino como el “Islote Montenegro”, “Bahía de los Cóndores”, lugares que muestran la pureza de sus aguas y en donde nos deleitan las tonadas de las aves que curiosas acompañan el recorrido. Siguiendo con la navegación que actualmente realizan los pescadores artesanales nos encontramos con el “Paso Nutria.” Luego se tiene en vista un místico paisajes; la “Laguna de los Acantilados” que nos sumerge en la naturaleza más indómita entre los ecos de pueblos étnicos, la voz del viento que agita la unión entre la tierra y el cielo. Sin lugar a dudas el legado de los alacalufes estampado en las laderas de piedra es el obsequio de esta etnia, ya que nos permite evidenciar su paso, apreciar y maravillarnos de sus obras; las “Pinturas Rupestres” las cuales representan un vestigio del asentamiento del pueblo aborigen conservado y exhibido en este museo al aire libre. Luego de visitar esta genuina muestra de expresiones aborígenes, la excursión nos guía hasta el sector de “Bahía de los Huiros”, desde aquí una escena imperdible; la vista al “Glaciar Bernal” que deja caer sus milenarios hielos en el afamado “Canal de las Montañas” el cual se cruza hasta tocar las eternas frías y azulinas capsulas de oxigeno que conmueven y enriquecen nuestro espíritu.

Two Silversmiths.

Mama will treat you well





www.hostelgeminis.com

Downtown Puerto Natales

Mama Rosa

INDIGO HOTEL - Ladrilleros 105 PUERTO NATALES - 413 609

tel. 56•61•414243 / 414081 Phillipi 657 • Puerto Natales, Chile Great central location • Rooms with private or shared bath • Free internet • Breakfast included

1 & 2-day tours through the Patagonian fjords & canals. Visit the Sendero Alacalufe web site for details.

One Art.

The Taller del Arbol Workshop in Natales

Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop,Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318 While traveling in Patagonia, it’s easy enough to find a typical souvenir for yourself or a loved one. But if you want to bring home a real piece of Patagonia, made by good people, who live, work, and play locally, go talk to Ricardo and Felipe. Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, Taller del Arbol store owners and artist silversmiths have been working together, on and off, since 1985. Their partnership is the result of a series of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to

the next, until there you are, not entirely sure how you got there and not having planned for where you end up. They describe the craft of the jewelry maker: “Any material is valuable if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it.” And that is just what they do. When talking about the importance of passion in his work, Ricardo explains he has “to keep changing to keep the passion in [his] work. Somehow, you have to conserve part of the passion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to produce more work.” And you see this all over Taller del Arbol, the first silversmith shop in Puerto Natales. Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work. Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery. They work with anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, you name it. You can find them in the store with a red door, Eberhard 318, with the hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, Monday-Friday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.

www.senderoalacalufe.com sendero-alacalufe@hotmail.com Puerto Natales, Chile • Ph 56 61 414747

Aquaterra Lodge • Puerto Natales, Chile

Phone +56 61 412239 • Bulnes 299 • Puerto Natales, Chile

www.aquaterrapatagonia.com

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Budgets Getaways to the park, weekly. 3 days hiking the three main valleys. Includes guide, private transfer and full board in Refugio. Starting at USD 695.

EBERHARD 230 / CASILLA 42 PUERTO NATALES / CHILE PH 56 61 411835 / INFO@CHILENATIVO.COM

Ph 56.61.411835 • www.chilenativo.travel

Eberhard 230, Casilla 42 • Puerto Natales

Traditional Chilean cuisine, wine & music in a cozy atmosphere Box Lunch Service

Tomas Rogers 131 - La Plaza - Puerto Natales www.lacasadepepe.de • phone: 56-61-410950

4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY "AQUEDANO

0UERTO .ATALES

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Barros Arana 135 • Puerto Natales • 56-61 411945

Trail recipes to get your grub on! Bored with 5-minute rice dinners and dried pasta meals? Looking for an alternative lunch? Ready for a healthy, light-weight breakfast suggestion? Is there something that will help you survive cold Patagonian nights in a tent? Yes, yes, yes! Here are a few recipes to spice up your trip.

Amerindia

Cozy hostel with the best variety of Chilean wines.

Ayurvedic Spa & Wellness Center Equilibrize body, mind & soul

Eberhard 161 • Puerto Natales • Patagonia • Chile Phone: (061)414143 / (56-9)6971047 piaurbina@ayurvastu.com www.ayurvastu.com

Miriam Parra Urban Artesania Design

Bulnes 622 • Bulnes 555 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 410931 • 415860 miriamparra_s@hotmail.com

vegetarian. fresh-squeezed juices. espresso. shakes. cakes.

FREE

YOUR TASTE BUDS

el Living La Plaza. Pto Natales. Chile. tapas wine bar. handcrafted beer. sofas. book exchange.

Bill’s Trekkers Breaky For a ‘W’ breakfast for two you’ll need... • 1 box of instant oatmeal (Quaker, Avena Instantánea) • 1 can of Svelty powdered milk. (Don’t go for the cheaper brand.Your breakfast will taste so much better if you just go for Svelty.) • 1 bag of brown sugar, which you can find at the pharmacy. Toss oatmeal in a resealable Ziploc bag and add powdered milk and sugar to taste. In the morning all you have to do is put your cup into the Ziploc bag, add some boiling water, and you’re ready to go for another day. For some variation, take a bag of jam or some dried fruit to flavor up your oats. Wrap It Up For this alternative lunch or cold dinner for two, you’ll need... • 1 pack of integral tortillas, which you can find at Vergel on Blanco Encalada • 250 grams of cream cheese • Aji Pebre (some spicy goodness that you can find the small bottles, next to the ketchup) • 1 pack of Serrano ham • A handful of white raisins (pasas blancas) • A handful of fresh cilantro Mix the cream cheese with some Aji Pebre to taste and spread it on the tortillas. Divide the Serrano ham onto each tortilla, sprinkle on some chopped-up raisins, finish it all off with cilantro, and wrap these bad boys up. Provecho! Candola If you’re in your tent with all your layers on and still freezing your toes off, consider walking up to the refugio and buying a box of wine. For this typical Chilean recipe you’ll need... • A box of wine • Sugar • The skin of half an orange • A couple of sticks of cinnamon • And… to get out of that cozy sleeping bag to put up your stove Mix all the ingredients in a pot, add sugar to taste, and heat until you can just drink it, but the alcohol is still in there. Sleep tight!

Los Gigantes de la Patagonia By Hermann Klasen Los lagos y ríos están rebosantes de truchas arco iris, farios y fontinalis. Sanas y gorditas, como si supieran que deben estar bien preparadas para los casi siete meses de pesca que tienen por delante.En la Patagonia, todo es extremo y salvaje. El clima es duro e impredecible. El viento es amo y señor absoluto durante la primavera y verano, obligando a adaptar todo tipo de actividad al aire libre a sus caprichos. Pescar aquí sea una delicia. Ríos, lagunas, lagos y arroyos, donde poder sentir toda la fuerza y belleza de este rincón salvaje del planeta, prácticamente solos. Pero las campanas de alerta ya están sonando. Existe una presión enorme por levantar nuevos proyectos hoteleros en el Parque Torres del Paine, pese a que el lugar ya se encuentra prácticamente saturado con los ciento veinte mil turistas que lo visitan cada año. Sólo podemos observar con impotencia como nuestras autoridades aprueban ampliaciones y nuevas obras sin considerar que se trata de una reserva de la biosfera declarada por la UNESCO. Esta política sería impensable en otras latitudes. La industria salmonera, luego de dejar la escoba más al norte, ahora apunta sus dardos a los fiordos de Última Esperanza… Así suma y sigue. Pero el presente, por ahora, no es malo. Podemos encontrar truchas de tres y más kilos muy cerca de Puerto Natales. Un poco más allá, en Torres del Paine, las corridas de salmones Chinook ya se hicieron periódicas, pudiendo alcanzar tallas de más de un metro de largo y pesos superiores a los veinticinco kilos. Sin duda, se trata de animales hermosos que merecen todo nuestro respeto. Y es aquí donde me quiero detener un momento. Durante mi vida en Santiago, donde trabajaba como periodista, poco y nada me importaba la naturaleza. La urbe lo absorbía todo sin darme cuenta.

Pero aquí, gracias al kayak y la pesca, logré hacer el clic, y entender que al mundo y sus criaturas tenemos que cuidarlas. Eso es lo maravilloso que tiene la pesca con mosca. Nos da la oportunidad única de capturar un pez salvaje, traerlo hasta nuestra mano, para luego en un acto casi incomprensible para muchos, liberarlo. La verdad es que todo el proceso va dirigido a ese instante mágico. Cada vez que tengo un pez en la mano, me produce una sensación de felicidad absoluta. Durante esos breves momentos nada más importa. Soy yo con el pez, y él sabe que en esa ocasión no va a morir. A lo largo de mi vida nunca he dejado de devolver un pez al agua, y en contadas ocasiones –con el dolor de mi alma- he tenido que sacrificar alguno debido a una mala picada. Lo que me motiva a continuar esta columna en el tiempo, es poder iniciar o convertir al mayor número de pescadores a la modalidad de “Catch and Release.” Créanme, que no hay nada más gratificante para el espíritu. Ahora les dejo un adelanto para los próximos meses. Jornadas de pesca en los ríos Rúbens y Penitentes. Truchas marrones en los lagos y lagunas de Torres del Paine. Gigantescos salmones Chinook en el río Serrano, a los que les daremos pelea con cañas de dos manos con líneas del tipo Skagit. Pescaremos enormes y plateadas Sea Runs en el mítico Río Grande de Tierra del Fuego, posiblemente una visita al casi virgen río Azopardo. Buscaremos truchas Steelhead en lagos escondidos del fiordo de Última Esperanza, a los cuales se puede acceder sólo en kayak de mar… Espero así, con mis relatos, poder motivarlos a practicar la pesca con devolución en un país privilegiado y único como Chile. En una jornada de pesca cualquiera tira un “tailing loop”!!!

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A story about coffee

for people with special dietary needs. Many of the meals are glutenfree, and there are a number of completely vegan options. There are also gluten and egg-free cakes and yummy desserts that are suitable for vegetarians. Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even El Living aims to be as if you don’t think you love it, you actually ecological as is possible in this far do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we corner of the world. They recycle all crave foods that hold some kind of fat: all milk cartons, bottles, cans and the grease in meat, the oils in avacados, the cardboard boxes, and they feed the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like organic waste to a neighbor’s pig.They it, we need it. And we especially need it for buy most of the salad ingredients and energy while trekking. many of the vegetables from the local A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a market gardeners, who are located threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not on the outskirts of town. Tap water is always available as an alternative to to use non-biodegradable products at all. bottled mineral water. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left-over The restaurant now grease on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue. employs six local women, plus Impossible to remove without soap and hot Jeremy at the bar. It is open from the water... or is it? end of October to mid-April and the Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner prices are very reasonable compared dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab to many tourist restaurants in town. Book exchange at El Living, on the main plaza. a fistful of dirt and scrub! The small granules All of the food (except for the bread of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils which is specially made) is made on from your meal and will remove almost any the premises by the great team of kitchen staff. The of the tough-to-scrub food particles from food is fresh and the juices are freshly squeezed to your dishes. Even burnt dinner pots clean order. up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes After trekking in the Park and living off of packet soups and pasta, most people are longing are left with nothing more than a clean coat for some real food. El Living offers a chance to of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small replenish your energy. Relax on the sofas with a amount of water, soap-free! glass of Chilean wine, a freshly mixed Pisco Sour or one of the popular Baguales beers that are brewed locally and served in only a few places in town. You can locate the café at Arturo Prat Lowe Alpine • North Face • Marmot • Primus • Sierra Designs 156 in the main square, a stone’s throw from the church. Phone number is 411140. They are open Equipment Rental & Quality Gear from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day. Full menu, sofas, magazines and a book swap available at any time.

Washing With Dirt

A view into El Living.

9am - 11pm

l Living is a café-restaurant in the main square of Puerto Natales which has been running since 2001. Set up by the English couple Anne Patterson and Jeremy Salter, the restaurant serves real coffee, fresh salads and vegetarian food. It is open all day from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m., and the full menu is available throughout the day. So, if you fancy French toast, a camembert sandwich, pumpkin soup, walnut burger, burritos or one of the delicious daily specials (which include curry, stir-fried vegetables, Caribbean pepper-pot, and cauliflower cheese, among others), then El Living is the ideal choice. The name is a play on the fact that in Chile the living room is called “el living.” The idea of the café was to create an atmosphere as welcoming as your living room. There are sofas, magazines and books to read, and the tables are old TV sets. The walls are covered with photographs of the local area and the typical Magellanic stove in the corner provides the finishing touch. Anne and Jeremy first arrived in Puerto Natales in 1993 when they trekked in Torres del Paine for two weeks and fell in love with the Park. A chance encounter with a park ranger who needed help with an English translation led to an offer of voluntary work in the Park. They spent a year as volunteers for CONAF, helping out with translations and giving out information to tourists. The couple then worked as guides for one of the hotels in Torres del Paine for five years. When their children were born they decided that they needed to find a job that was more compatible with child rearing and hence El Living was born. As vegetarians who have traveled a lot in South America, Anne and Jeremy often struggled to find fresh, vegetarian food, so they knew vegetarian dishes would be a huge part of their restaurant-café. They thought of all the things that backpackers may miss during their travels: sofas, real coffee, English tea, good music, homemade cakes, whole meal bread and the odd newspaper. Over time the menu has expanded to include creative new dishes and even has offerings

By Sarah Anderson

Credit cards accepted.

Eberhard 214 Puerto Natales, Chile cecilia_chaura@hotmail.com • Tel/fax: (61) 412589

erratic rock 2 Bed & Breakfast b. zamora 732 puerto natales, chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 414317

A hostel alternative for couples. Private double rooms, private bathrooms, organic breakfasts and a smile.

December.08

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Punta Arenas, Chile POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

questions & answers

Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those

Where is the bus station?

Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.

Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.

What does Punta Arenas mean?

Is there any public transportation?

Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.

Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive.

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?

Why are there ropes on the main square corners? Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street.

interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.

How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!

Thursday, and Saturday. 3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day. What type of day tours are there?

All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.

You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended).

Where can I change money?

Do the street dogs bite?

There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.

Yes, gringos only.

Can I drink the tap water?

How many people live here?

Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.

About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.

How much do taxis cost?

How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas? Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria. How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia? 250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura. Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map? Yes! For a price. Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255) offers boat trips to remote islands for almostoff-the-map trekking, fishing, and more. What are my penguin options? 1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway. 2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday,

How far is the airport out of town? About 20km or 30 minutes.

How much is an airport transfer? A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles, which take a bit longer because they have more people to pick up, but they’re more economical. Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent. How do I get to the big shopping mall from downtown? Take a taxi, or cheaper yet - take a colectivo number 800, 300, 114, 112, 777 or 17. These colectivos will drop you off at the huge grocery store, Lider, which is part of the mall.

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Penguin spotlight...

Who’s watching who?

Torres

f e del paine e Cabañas del Paine l Hotel

f e e l

Penguin contemplating ship full of sailors contemplating the penguins -- Antactica. Photo: Rustyn Mesdag

very year in mid-September, the first black and white heads timidly pop out of the cold water from the Strait of Magellan. Spring has begun and soon the first brave Magellanic Penguin steps onto one of Patagonia’s lone pebble beaches, just like their anscesters have done for thousands of years. Only males arrive at the beginning, but it doesn’t take long for the females to join the males and start finding their soul mates for the sole but definite purpose of reproduction. They then stay all summer until their chicks are big enough to join their parents at the end of March on their long journey north. There are five colonies that you can visit around Punta Arenas: Seno Otway, Isla Magdalena, Cabo Virgenes, Tucker Islet, and Ruppert Islet. All of contain the same species: Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus). So what are your options? Pretty much all tour operators and travel agencies in Punta Arenas offer daily departures to Seno Otway in the afternoon, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m., picking folks up at their accommodations. It’s an hour drive through the Patagonian pampas to reach private property, where about 11,000 penguins nest. The landlord officially opened his terrain for visitors on October 15, 2007, and will close it up at the end of March, when the penguins start to head north.This year, the entrance fee at Seno Otway is 4.500 pesos. There’s also a fee of 1.000 pesos to use the private road, the only way to access the colony. The ferry boat that connects Punta Arenas and Porvenir takes you to Isla Magdalena on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, but it doesn’t start operating until the end of November or beginning of December. There’s about 120,000

Fully Equipped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet & Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Coffee Shop

Hain Hotel

José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 hotelhain@gmail.com Punta Arenas, Chile

penguins on Isla Magdalena. This excursion begins at “Tres Puentes” port, which you can reach from downtown Punta Arenas by hopping on one of the colectivos, either nº 15 or 20. The price for this tour will be 20.000 pesos, including entrance fee. Every day at 7:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. (weather permitting), you can catch a fast zodiac boat across the Strait of Magellan to Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta. The latter island is home to about 1,000 sea lions, who consider Isla Magdalena their special penguin restaurant. This is an adventurous yet safe alternative to the ferry. Price: 32.000 pesos, including the shuttle transfer from/to Punta Arenas and to/from the dock, and the entrance fee. The Eastern entrance of the Strait of Magellan is called Cabo Virgenes. Nearby, on Argentine soil, is a penguin colony that is said to be the second largest in South America (after Punta Tombo), with about 200,000 birds. It is best reached by joining a tour from Río Gallegos or by renting a car and driving the dirt road southeast of Río Gallegos yourself. It’s a pretty large distance, but the chances that you and the penguins will be the only ones there are pretty good! Price from Río Gallegos: 120 Argentinian pesos plus 15ARP entrance fee. A visit to Tucker Islet is only possible by joining one of the weekly expedition cruises from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia onboard the Mare Australis or Via Australis. Prices for the 5 day/4 night cruise start at USD 1,150 per person. To get there, you can join a Humpback Whale Watching tour that runs from December to April from/to Punta Arenas.The penguin colony has an estimated 20,000 members. This season’s prices for the 3 day/2 night all-inclusive tour is USD 900 per person.

Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 • Punta Arenas • 56-61 241029

remezon@hotmail.com

. 44 rooms with the best view of the Paine mountain chain . Restaurant and grill incorporated . Excurtions and transfers www.cabanasdelpaine.cl reservas@cabanasdelpaine.cl phone:243354

f e experts e Magdalena and l

Penguin

s i e n t e

Marta Island

. (150.000 penguins y 1500 sea lions) . Seno Otway Penguin colony . Bulnes Fort Jose Nogueira 1255 Pta. Arenas www.soloexpediciones.com

Rio de Los ciervos

f e e estancia l “The past of pioners

f e e l

s i e n t e

close to Punta Arenas”

. Only 5 km of the city . Historical Circuit . Typical Food . Horses riding . Acommodations

fotografo: Luis Bertea

f e e l s i e n t e

www.estanciariodelosciervos.com Fonos reservas: 061- 710219 fax: 243354 asz@soloexpediciones.com

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Cabo Froward: The trek you were hoping for. two neck-high river crossings carrying your pack over your head. There is no turning back, amigo. The Cabo trek is really only possible from January-March. Other times of the year you’re likely to run into river problems. Deep winter makes for frozen conditions. This route boasts two large, cold, strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. If you have successfully trekked and camped the Torres del Paine ‘W’ circuit, then you might be ready for Cabo Froward. It’s a trek about the location itself, the bottom of the continent and the history. Plus, very few trekkers have ever been to Cabo Froward. The trek begins where the dirt road ends. Old deep forests of Nothofagus: huge coigues that seem never before seen or touched. The views are incredible, not only of the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is Confirmed! Cabo Trip on December 29. To book into this trek, impressive, reaching more than contact erratic rock in Pto. Natales (www.erraticrock.com) or 7,000 feet, jutting straight out Aoinikenk in Punta Arenas (www.aonikenk.com). of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto he Strait of Magellan, the channel, scene of de Agostini National Park. There countless shipwrecks, the oldest cemetery is also a good chance of being saturated at least in Patagonia, historical bays... and never once a day. The hike covers sand, rainforest and anyone else on the trail. rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple The bottom of Africa and the bottom small ones. The trail is not always clearly marked. of Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on Finding a reliable map is next to impossible. Trails a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a are only marked by the few that try their luck photo next to the sign and drive off again. Not reaching the bottom of the continent. This trail the case for the bottom point of South America. will become a section of the Sendero de Chile This journey is only for those ready to get project, which aims to create roads and paths and completely away from the masses and willing to ferries that span the length of Chile, eliminating put themselves in a place where the word ‘selfthe need to cross into Argentina. The project is reliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for expected to be completed in 2010. an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and

Ro ck fa l l , Scr e e & Bou l d er f i e lds Trekking and climbing through boulder fields, talus or scree means dealing with possible rockfall or other hazards. In such areas, make intentional, confident steps, and keep your balance and agility in tact. Always be aware of others trekking below you, in the fall line. Walk side by side, instead of in a single-file line, to reduce the chances of knocking a rock loose and hitting a trekker below. In confined areas or gullies, where spreading out isn’t possible, walk directly behind the person in front of you, so loose rocks don’t have the time or distance to build speed before they hit someone. Traveling up gulleys one-by-one to safety zones, out of the way of possible rockfall, is another option. Should you ever rap a rock loose, of any size, yell “ROCK!” so others can take cover or move out of the way. Discuss this system with your group in advance. Typically, people’s first reaction to “ROCK!” is to raise their heads up to see what’s going on. A good way to get your teeth knocked out. The proper response is to burrow your head downward, using your backpack to protect your back, neck and head. Climb with your eyes. Take moments to pause and plan your next step, before you take it. Use your hands for balance. Don’t be afraid to work your way up a boulder field scrambling with all four limbs. Walk on the tops of large, stable boulders, when you can. It’s easier on the knees and gives you the best vantage point to plan your next steps. Do not walk in loose sand under boulders. Doing so can shift the balance of the huge rocks and cause them to roll onto you.

La Marmita

Reputation is everything.

Arauco Healthy. Vegetarian. Patagonian.

Restaurant/Bistro

Senoret

Ave. Colon

Waldo Seguel

Jose Menedez

Fagnano

Errazuriz

Armando Sanhueza

Chiloe Bories

Jose Nogueira

Ave. Bulnes Magallanes

21 de Mayo

Pedro Montt

Lautaro Navarro

Plaza Sampalo 678 Punta Arenas, Chile O‘Higgins phone 56 61 222056 Roca

Port

Jorge Montt Sarmi

Mejic

Yugos

I. Carrer

Pun

erratic rock hostel punta arenas

Angamos

Maipu

Ave. Espana Balmaceda

Ave. Indepencia

Boliviana

Errazuriz 567 Punta Arenas, Chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 221130

Quillota

The final goal is to reach the cross that overlooks the end of the American continent. The view from the lookout provides a true sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the world you are. This trek isn’t for everyone. There is no help or contact with the world for days in any direction. The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely selfsupported trip can be called nothing less than extreme trekking.

Cabo Froward Shoestring Trips 2008-09 As a special summer promotion, erratic rock in Puerto Natales is posting budget Cabo Froward programs for backpackers in Patagonia. For what they call “a getting back to our roots program,” these series of Cabo Froward trips will be open to the public. “We designed this series of Cabo trips for the backpackers who don’t normally use guides. Travelers that want to do something unique and who want to carry their own gear, who want to achieve the tip of the continent on their own, under their own power. The problem is they just need someone to show them the way and they can’t afford typical high-priced, guided luxury trips.” The program runs weekly during the months of January, February and March and is six days in total.Trips include guide, food, one night in Punta Arenas and transportation from Punta Arenas to the trailhead and back. This is a self-sufficient program and each team member must carry all personal gear and equipment. Cabo Froward programs leave every Sunday from Puerto Natales and return to Punta Arenas on Fridays. So far, there is a trip confirmed for December 29, 2008. For more information about joining a Cabo Froward program contact erratic rock in Puerto Natales at 410355, www.erraticrock. com, or Aonikenk in Punta Arenas at 228332, or www.aonikenk.com.

Punta Arenas

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The Future of Street Dogs The Punta Arenas humane society, La Protectora de Punta Arenas, needs your help! Although they provide critical services for stray animals, they are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs, La Protectora (or Corporacion de la Defensa de los Derechos de los Animales, CODDA) runs the southernmost animal shelter in the world. Founded in 1990 by Señora Elia Tagle to stop the cruel poisoning of stray dogs by the local and federal governments (who used strychnine), the nonprofit runs essential sterilization and educational programs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000.

La Protectora receives no public funding, but they manage to stretch their $20,000 USD per year budget pretty far. On this budget, they operate a shelter with 100-140 dogs and 2-5 cats. Most of their animals are not locked in cages and run around freely in several pens, eating twice daily, playing, and sometimes fighting. La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified euthanasia when necessary.With the help of the police, they also respond to cruelty and neglect cases. One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership. Another project hosts a group of high school students from the local British School, who are obligated to volunteer in order to graduate. Wondering what you can do to help? You

can help pressure the local and regional governments to support La Protectora. Write a letter to the editor of La Prensa Austral, the Punta Arenas-based regional paper, discussing how this issue affects tourism. The more letters they receive, the more local officials will respond. Draw attention to the issue by speaking with tourist-related businesses, such as travel agencies, tourist offices, and hostels. This helps raise the awareness of locals, who want happy tourists and a good reputation for their town. Financially, you can make a donation. Visit their web site (www.chileaustral.com/perros) with a PayPal account. Or better yet, stop by in person. La Protectora is located on the outskirts of Punta Arenas on the road to Club Andino at Avenida Circunvalación 1950. You can also reach them by calling (56-61) 262607 or writing to perros@chileaustral.com.

Un Viaje al Bien-Estar en Patagonia: Armonía en Cuerpo, Mente y Espíritu Patagonia es un lugar especial para los viajeros que buscan armonía, paz, tranquilidad, rélax y bienestar. Terapias y masajes de todo tipo aquí las encontrarán, desde los “Spa de día,” para pasar unas horas, hasta los más sofisticados, situados en hoteles más lujosos. En este artículo Black Sheep les recomienda los mejores desde Pucón a Ushuaia. ¡Quedarán como nuevos!

La Pica De La Abeja • Miel, cosmética natural, Apiterapia • Fono: (09) 8731582 Ruta 225, Km. 28.5 • Ensenada

PUCÓN

Tel.: (02944) 520847 • naturalyanss@hotmail.com Av Pioneros Km 4,500 (8400) • Bariloche

Küelu Spa, Parque Termal Menetúe Camino Internacional Km. 30 • Pucón, Chile info@kueluspa.cl • www.kueluspa.cl Fono: (56-45) 441877

BARILOCHE Bienestar Argentina Centro de salud (054)(02944)-432254 • San Martin 130 • Bariloche Rupu Pehuen Completo bienestar psicofísico

Massage Therapist Jaime Schectman, CMT (02944) 448-750 • adiostahoe@gmail.com

Finally. Something hot in Patagonia.

www.patagoniablacksheep.com Por Pilar Irribarra Hotel Remota Spa • Sauna, jacuzzi, masajes Ruta 9 Norte, km. 1.5 • Huerto 279 • Natales Fono (56-61) 414040 CALAFATE Cerro Calafate Hotel y Spa Calle 998 • Villa Parque Los Glaciares • El Calafate 54 (2902) 49 2392 • www.hotelcerrocalafate.com cerrocalafate@cotecal.com.ar Posada Los Álamos Humus Spa Hidromasajes Gobernador Moyano 1355 (02902) 491145 • info@posadalosalamos.com

PUERTO NATALES

Alto Calafate Piscina, sauna, sala de masajes

Lincoyán 291 • Pucón, Chile

Aquaterra Lodge Masajes de relajación

Tierra Nueva Centro Holístico de relajación

(56-61) 412239 • info@quaterrapatagonia.com www.aquaterrapatagonia.com • Bulnes 299, Natales

Calles Nombre 123 Quinta 301 A (02902) 494110 • reservas@hotelaltocalafate.com.ar

Bhoga, Centro de terapia y movimiento.

Cel:082599043 • contacto@tierranuevapucon.cl Huife Km 18 • Pucón, Chile

Mandala Relax Masajes, reiki, hot tubs

Centro de Meditación Sammasati Sector Candelaria Alto • Pucón, Chile

Eberhard 161 • Puerto Natales, Chile (56-61) 414143 • mandalaandino@yahoo.com

PUERTO VARAS

Yoga PatagOM

Spa Aguanativa

Galvarino 345 • Puerto Natales, Chile Fono: 61-413829 • www.susalatino.com

Av. Los Castaños Nº 5 • Puerto Varas, Chile Tel-Fax: 065 310707 • spa@aguanativa.cl

Hotel Indigo Spa • Sauna, jacuzzi, masajes

La Casa De Yoga

(56-61) 413 609 • Ladrilleros 105, Puerto Natales

Imperial 092 y 431 Puerto Varas, Chile Tel-Fax: (65) 234 570

www.indigopatagonia.com info@indigopatagonia.com HOSTEL Y TURISMO

Private & shared rooms Private & shared bath Kitchen, internet, laundry Tours & transfers Wi-Fi

O’Higgins 765 Punta Arenas, Chile Tel/Fax (+56 61) 249130 www.estancia.cl hostallaestancia@yahoo.com

These dogs need your help. Contact perros@chileaustral.com or call 56.61.262.607 (English, Spanish and dog spoken.)

USUAHIA Hatha Yoga

Bories No 655 / Punta Arenas

(02901) 15601468 • Islas del Atlantico Sur 1942 Los Cauquenes Resort & Spa reservas@loscauquenesushuaia.com.ar  Reinamora 3462, Barrio Bahía Cauquén, (9410) Finisterris. Lodge Relax www.finisterris.com • (02901) 1561-6125 Monte Susana, Ladera Este • Ushuaia, Argentina

Jose Menendez 882 Punta Arenas, Chile Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279

S E MENEN D E Z josemenendez@chileaustral.com

www.chileaustral.com/josemenendez

José Nogueira 1116 • Phone (56-61) 241300 www.hotelplaza.cl • Punta Arenas, Chile

December.08

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Ushuaia, Argentina

POPULATION: 60,000 FOUNDED: 1884 WHAT’S GROOVY: Cerro Guanaco JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (emergency)

questions & answers How can I get there? 1.) By bus from all over Argentina or from Punta Arenas, Chile. 2.) By plane from many Argentine cities. 3.) By boat from Isla Navarino. (Check with Ushuaia Boating at Paz & Godoy) Is there a tourist office? Three of ‘em, ! rated as possibly the best in Latin America. There’s one at the airport, one at the “Muelle Turistico,” or Tourist Wharf, and one on the main street, at San Martín 674. All offices open around at 8 or 9 a.m. and close between 6 and 10 p.m., depending on the time of year.Visit their web site: www.e-ushuaia.com.

Did you know? Isla Navarino by boat from Ushuaia It is possible to cross from Argentina to Chile and vice versa between Ushuaia and Isla Navarino.You can’t fly that way, but you can take a boat-van transfer to get to Puerto Williams, the military town on Isla Navarino. Due to complex international paperwork, Ushuaia Boating is the only company offering this service regularly. They schedule two trips daily (9 a.m. and 5 p.m.) and need a minimum of three travelers to make the crossing. Set up your reservation with them by email at reservas@ushuaiaboating.com. They’ll need full name, nationality, birth date and passport number for each traveler. Cost is USD $130 one way, $240 round trip. This includes the 45-minute boat ride to Puerto Navarino across the Beagle Channel, shepherding you through Chilean customs, and transportation to Puerto Williams, from which you can see the Dientes Mountains, an end-of-the-earth trekking and hiking destination. The Ushuaia Boating office is located at 190 Godoy (tel: 02901-436153). In Puerto Williams, the contact person can be found at Hostal Coiron.

This hip city overlooks the Beagle Channel at the southern end of the island of Tierra del Fuego, Ushuaia wins the title “Southernmost City in the World.” Because of this fame, anybody who’s anybody tries to find their way to Ushuaia, though technically Puerto Williams in Chile is further south. But Puerto Williams doesn’t have near the tourist services that Ushuaia does. The name Ushuaia in the Yaman Indian language means “bay penetrating westward.” By South American standards, it’s a pretty expensive place to visit, especially if you’re on a budget. Most people make their way down here just to say they’ve been to the southernmost city in the world.

Walk along the Beagle Channel in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, visit historic Estancia Harberton, or check out the skiing and dog sledding in winter. In the summer, water ski on enormous Lago Fagnano or the many rivers throughout the island, or choose one of the day hikes in the area. If you’re not looking for historic tours and whatnot, Ushuaia is still a cool place to sit and drink good beer in good pubs with good people.

How do I get around to the hikes and excursions I want to do? In town, metered taxis are the way to go. In high season, there are mini buses running regularly to the national park (30 min. west of town) and also east up the valley along Route 3, giving you easy access to trailheads.Your hostel can arrange your transport to the park, or a service that can get you to trailheads on Route 3. Is there a place to get my passport stamped with the ‘End of the World’? Yep! The trick is finding out where to get the stamp. What’s the big deal about the Falkland Islands/Islas Malvinas? This is a very sore topic with Argentines, as they still consider the islands their own. They have claimed them since 1833, although the islands were settled by mariners, gauchos, and English and Scottish sheep farmers. No one paid much attention to the windswept territories until the war between England and Argentina in the 1980s, which Argentina lost. Whatever you do, refer to the islands as the Malvinas, or don’t bring ‘em up at all! If I bus into Ushuaia, where do I get dropped off? Ushuaia doesn’t have a central bus station. Out-oftown buses drop off at the parking lot next to YPF petrol station on Maipu, the road which parallels the coast. From here, you can hail a taxi to your hostel. If you don’t already have something booked, walk one block heading against traffic, and you’ll come to one of the tourist offices. They might even call your choice of hostel and see if there’s room for you. Where can I change money in Ushuaia? There’s one Casa de Cambio, Thaler, on the main drag near the tourist office.You can also change cash at the banks, between 10:00-15:00 week days. Why are there two different prices for stamps? Because there are two postal companies, one run by the government, and the other a private company which uses DHL. They charge slightly more.You can put your post cards in any of the boxes around town, no matter which stamps you buy.

Why are there little plaques outside hostels and hotels? The plaque means they are registered with the municipal tourist office. If any problems arise, they can be reported. They are also monitored for hygiene and safety standards. If you stay within this network, prices are standardized and a certain level of professionalism is ensured. Are there any good hikes near by? A ton. Ask at the tourist office for information on free hikes, right outside of town. “Senderos Antiguos,” are three walks of varying difficulty, which you can start right from the center of town. The national park office on San Martín can go over

maps with you and help with suggestions for hikes in the park. There are some great hikes in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, and trekking from a day to several days in the valleys off of Route 3. In the winter these valleys offer cross country skiing and dog sledding. What else is there to do around town? Visit the first estancia on the island, Harberton, take a 4x4 ride to Lago Fagnano, ride the Train at the End of the World, rent a bike, or museum hop. Take the City Tour, fly over the Beagle Channel in a private plane, go horseback riding, ride the chair lift above town to Glaciar Martial, or take a boat ride through the islands of the Beagle Channel.

Calafate

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Calafate, Argentina

Visit the glaciers. Perito Moreno is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit five other glaciers in the area (Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis & Heim). What about Upsala? Can I visit that glacier? You can’t visit Upsala right now. The waterway is blocked by massive icebergs. How do I get to/from the Calafate airport? By the airport shuttle, which costs around $26 ARS per person. By taxi it’s about $70 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops.

Can I drink the tap water?

What’s the weather like in these parts? It’s Patagonia. The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer. Who was Perito Moreno? Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish. Are there ice hikes on the glacier? There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura.

Calle 15

What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any ATMs, banks, or places to change money. Some places accept dollars or euros, but not Chilean pesos. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It’s up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the Park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all leave-no-trace principles.

ar tí nM Sa

Automovil C. Argentino

C.L. Piedra Buena Comodoro Py Calle 17 Calle 43

By bus. It takes 3.5 hours to get to Chaltén from Calafate. In winter there’s only one bus in the morning.

200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capitol and youngest city, founded in 1985.

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Cacique Bigua

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How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate?

How many people live in El Chaltén?

In Calafate, they’re open from around 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m.

1 de Mayo

El Chaltén

Not really. The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the evening bus to El Chaltén.

7 de Deciembre

Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).

Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?

When are the stores open, anyway?

Ezequiel Bustillo

What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include?

Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?

Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed. This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box.

25 de Mayo

9 de Julio

Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price.

15 de Febrero

C. Tomás Espora

Are there any cheap eating options?

In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people.

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The information center is in the bus station.

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Where is the information center in Calafate?

Rio

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Av. Juan D. Pe rón

What can I do in Calafate?

Perioto Moreno

Campaña del Desierto

There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities. The best one is El Ovejero.

Where can I camp in El Calafate?

Julio A. Roca

It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities.

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José Pantin

Los Gauchos

Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy.

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Is it safe at night? How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales?

Calafate, Argentina er ta

El Calafate

They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice. To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip. Bring your own lunch for the excursions. The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time!

and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.

questions & answers

Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets

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POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)

Lago Argentino

in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/ Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles.

get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. Outside of town, Camping Confluencia is free. Madsen, the former free camping near the entrance of the Fitz Roy Trail is closed indefinitely. There are also a few payfor campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers. Will my cell phone work in Chaltén? Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?

What if I don’t have lodging reservations? The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village. How many days should I plan to spend hiking?

Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén?

You need to stay at least one night. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto.

In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time

In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs about ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to

Where can I camp in El Chaltén?

Did you know? El Calate and El Chaltén passed a law in 2006 making the use of plastic bags in supermarkets and retail stores illegal! The powers that be determined that the bags+wind=visual impact. If a retailer is caught using plastic bags, they can be fined or brought up on charges. Way to go Calafate! Calafate & Chaltén: true leaders in the struggle to clean up Patagonia.

December.08

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editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Are you being herd? Write us with your comments, stories, discoveries, praises, gripes or photos.

Si tu destino es El Calafate, Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...

Viva el Reggae: La Kandonga El Calafate es un pueblo que no para de crecer, es impresionante ver la evolución de lo que hace 10 años eran tan solo algunas calles con una población de 2,000 habitantes a lo que es ahora. Con una población estable de 20,000 almas, en su mayoría dedicadas al turismo, también se puede encontrar un enorme contenido cultural. Esta llena de talentos por donde lo mires, teatro, malabaristas, bailarines y por supuesto un gran numero de músicos. Es como si todos se hubiesen puesto de acuerdo para juntarse en este pueblo. A nivel musical se puede escuchar de todo, desde el más tradicional folklore hasta instrumentos como el famoso didgeridoo Australiano. Pero sin duda lo que más se destaca

dentro de este grupo de artistas es “La Kandonga” una excelente banda compuesta por siete músicos que llevan mas de 2 años juntos y que bajo el concepto de “reggae, bombo, bondi.” Muestran en cada show un increíble sonido al que perfectamente se lo puede llamar original, mezclando reggae, rock, folklore y boleros. Escuchar algo así en un lugar como este es algo para destacar porque al ser un pueblo chico y extremadamente turístico cada artista se ve sujeto a la imponente critica de un publico que curtido por el clima Patagónico (frio + viento + viento). Esta sediento de algo nuevo, algo distinto, algo que motive, que desafié, algo para seguir, algo que los

Fishing for Breaks in the Ice By Fede Fourcade

Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306 www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar

r al glaciar es como ir a pescar, por ahí pescan un rompimiento, por ahí no. Pero esa sensación de estar a la espera constante los va a llenar de paz, los va a cansar y lo van a disfrutar tanto que no importa lo que pase, satisfacción garantizada. La gente que llega a Calafate básicamente tiene dos interrogantes en la cabeza. Uno es como va a estar el clima y el otro es en que momento es mejor ir al Perito Moreno si a la tarde o a la mañana? Muchos llegan con el rumor de que por la tarde hay más desprendimientos. La verdad es que el glaciar “IS ALIVE” y sus desprendimientos dependen directamente de su humor. Naturaleza pura maneja nuestras sensaciones. Y aca esta la verdad amigos mios, para aquellos que alguna vez pescaron va a ser facil de entender. Cuando entren al Parque Nacional Los Glaciares y lleguen hasta el sector de los balcones, automáticamente van a sentir esta inmensa energia. Van a escuchar tremendos sonidos como si se rajara la tierra. Su cuerpo se va a llenar de adrenalina y ansiedad, van a buscar el mejor lugar para poder apreciarlo, aunque nunca es suficiente. Van a estar en constante movimiento buscando el perfect spot. Una vez que lo encuentren, llego el momento, empezar a mirar detalladamente cada grieta, empezar a escuchar y estar alerta ante el más minimo movimiento.Van a demandar silencio. Pueden tener suerte y agarrar uno grande, sí!, “the real big fish” un inmenso desprendimiento

Check out La Kandonga, live reggae fusion in Calafate.

de pared completa que al caer provoca una ola gigante y un sonido que te llega a los huesos. O quizas solo una pequeña roca que tampoco desilusiona porque hasta el más minimo escombro provoca un sonido alentador. No importa cual sea, automáticamente se van a sentir atrapados, no se van a querer mover, esperando, con paciencia, asegurando una y otra vez en sus cabezas que un próximo rompimiento está en camino. Cuando las horas pasan se van a sentir más “pro” ante la mirada de los recien llegados. Las horas de paciencia y gratitud se hacen notar en tus ojos y en la manera en que estás a la espera. Quizas después de 3, 4 o 5 horas de estar parados no pescaron ningun break y en el momento que deciden irse:CRAAAAKKCK!!! Cae un gran pedazo y eso justo pasa cuando estás subiendo alguna escalera entre los arboles que te impiden ver el esperado evento. Ahí el momento pescadores, me quedo o me voy? Lo primero que vas a querer es quedarte más, tu cuerpo te lo pide, tu cerebro te lo exige y tu corazón lo demanda. Que vas a hacer? Quien sabe, sos libre. Por eso, siempre recomiendo a los fanáticos que vayan con tiempo, si es posible rentar un auto, mejor, asi no tienen limite de tiempo y cuando deciden irse es por decisión propia. Pero sepan que siempre hay un “crack” que te hace volver y que el glaciar Perito Moreno nunca decepciona, las expectativas que uno trae son siempre superadas. De día, de noche, con sol, con lluvia, siempre sorprende. El clima no importa, lo unico que altera son sus alusinantes colores que lo deja en constante contraste con su entorno.

haga vibrar cada vez que ven un Show en vivo y les haga desprender esos pequeños hielos que se han formado en su caracter como consecuencia directa del lugar donde viven. La banda creció literalmente adentro de un Bondi (bus) que cumplía el rol de sala de ensayo. Siempre encontrando espacios entre inconstantes horarios laborales, cada integrante se entrego a fondo con todo su talento para satisfacer el deseo de conformar una banda nacida en esta hermosa Patagonia. Todo este fino arte esta expresado perfectamente en cada una de sus liricas. La Kandonga suena al ritmo de guitarras, bajo, trompeta, saxo, kena, un fino ensamble de percusión y la cereza del postre al frente de la formación, la excelente voz de una mujer que decora cada estrofa con unos tonos que te hacen vibrar. La Kandonga anunció el futuro lanzamiento de su primer disco “Homenaje Colectivo” llamado así en honor a su más fiel y hermetica sala de ensayo, el Bondi. Según información “oficial” el tan esperado disco se va a presentar con 10 de sus mejores temas. Una o dos veces al mes deleitan al publico local y extranjero con shows llenos de euforia y mucha fiesta. Asique si estas en el pueblo por el ritual de alegría de un show Kandonga, es tu oportunidad imperdible.

Bariloche

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Bariloche, Argentina POPULATION: 150,000 WHAT’S GROOVY: Parque Municipal Llao Llao, eXtremo Sur for kayaking, Carol Jones for guided horse tours, Transitando lo Natural for trips to Cerro Tronador. JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (ambulance)

San Carlos de Bariloche is Argentina’s gateway to Patagonia. The city’s name originated from a typo on a letter addressing a major English settler of the area as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos. Despite the error, the name stuck. The city center is an eclectic mix of shops, chocolate stores, lodging, lively bars and packed dance clubs. Beyond the center, you’ll catch views ranked by National Geographic as some of the ‘worlds’ best.’ Feast your eyes on the hand-carved log and stone architecture and the lake and mountains beyond it. The area’s main attraction, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, features a ton of easily accessible trails. Created in 1934, the Park boasts rugged

mountains, such as Mount Tronador, flourishing Valdivian rainforests and the windblown steppe. From day hikes to expeditions, visitors can enjoy every style of mountaineering and trekking. The single tracks lead to manned huts offering beds, hot meals and, sometimes, home-brewed beers. Check with Club Andino for maps, trail conditions and other inquiries. Bariloche is also home to South America’s largest ski area, Catedral. A small village in itself, Catedral offers over 30 chair lifts, 120 kilometers (74 miles) of groomed runs and 1,200 hectares (2,965 acres) of skiable terrain. Catedral’s base area is also a summer activity center with mountain biking, hiking and outdoor concerts.

questions & answers When is fishing season? The Limay River, one of the largest rivers in the area, drains into Nahuel Huapi. It is the best body of water for catching big fish. This eastern flowing river is notorious for large rainbow trout in November and December and large brown trout in March and April. How can I check airline status? Go to www.aa2000.com.ar to find out if your plane is on time. How far is the airport from the city center? Approximately 15 minutes. Where can I change money? There is a casa de cambio on Avenida Mitre, one block from the Centro Civico. Can I drink the tap water? Absolutely! It may be the best you ever tasted. When is the usual ski season? The ski season typically runs from mid-June to mid-October. Where do the boat cruises leave from? From Puerto Pañuelo, 25 km west of town, across from the Llao Llao Hotel. How far is El Bolsón from here?

Absolutely. Many of the treasures of the area are not accessible by bus. Also with the freedom of a car you can come and go as you like. Is there a monster en Lago Nahuel Huapi? Yes, the Lochness monster’s distant relative, Nahuelito, lives in the lake, but he is very friendly. What’s with all large groups in matching outfits?

The Chilean border is about two hours away by car, traveling through Villa La Angostura.

It’s the latest thing, grab a few friends, start a team and pick your own colors. Bariloche is a hot spot for graduating classes to come and celebrate their new-found freedom. They come in huge groups and all wear the same rented outfits as kind of a rah-rah thing. The Brazilians do the same thing in the winter.

How do I communicate with the world?

Where can I get the best steak?

Look for a locutorio, many have both internet and telephone booths available.

El Boliche de Alberto is Bariloche’s “it” place for succulent steak. There are three locations, the

El Bolsón is about an hour and a half south. It’s a gorgeous drive and well worth the trip if you have an extra day or two. How far is it to the Chilean border?

Where can I find a good trail map and information on the hiking trails? Club Andino, on the corner of 20 de Febrero, number 30, kiddy-corner from the YPF gas station has the maps and information you are looking for.

restaurant at Bustillo kilometer 8 having the best reputation. What’s up with all the Saint Bernards and their owners? These guys sell you the right to take a picture of their dog. Beware though. If you take a picture of the canine without paying for it, chaos may ensue. Where should I go to get the best sandwich? Morfy’s, side street next to the civic center.

Do I need a reservation for the refugios? No, but they are on a first-come, first-serve basis. What’s up with the siesta? With dinner starting around 10 p.m., it is safe to say the Argentines are night owls. Stores in el centro are more apt to stay open during the day. Grocery stores and locutorios tend not to go on siesta. Normal siesta hours are from 12:30 to 4:30 (give or take a half hour). Is it worth renting a car?

When did the Bariloche’s chocolate fascination begin? The first chocolate store was created on the corner of Mitre and Beschtedt in 1928. The Swiss pioneer, Carlos Triberholn, is the grandfather of South America’s best chocolate.

Where can I find the best ice cream? There’s a rainbow of ice cream shops in the area, but Jujua is hands down the favorite. Find them in the city center, in the kilometers as well as in El Bolsón,Villa La Angostura and San Martín. What year did the first car show up in Bariloche? The first car made its way to Bariloche in 1910. It

C a b a l gat a s C a r o l Jo n e s Authentic Horseback Riding in Bariloche, Patagonia

Your Best Ride to Tronador Open every day from 8:30 a.m. 20 de Febrero #300

Can I hike year-round? Yes, the lower elevation trails are generally free of snow all year. The higher elevation trails are available from November to May.

was a Mercedes Benz and was known as the “car of the government” due to its famous passengers. A Ford T was brought in a bit later.

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Massage Therapist Bariloche Jamie Schectman, CMT

Tel: (02944) 448-750 adiostahoe@gmail.com

Tourist Information Alternative Excursions Route 40 -- Rafting -- Canopy Horseback Tours -- Parapente and others...

December.08

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Puerto Varas, Chile POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

questions & answers

Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the

iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.

Puerto Varas

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In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.

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Maipo 1010, Puerto Varas, Chile Phone: 65-232880 www.interpatagonia.com/carlaminte

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There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all.

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Puerto Varas, Chile

What kind of wildlife can I see in the park?

How can I get around without a car?

Hospedaje Carla Minte

In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take

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Will I have any problems with drinking water or food?

The lake is Llanquihue, and it is pronounced as “Yawn-key-way.”

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How do you pronounce the name of the lake?

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What else is there to do? There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla.

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In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather.

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Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few.

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Are there any good day hikes in the area?

There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people.

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That’s Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m).

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What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?

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Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout.

Where can I stay without breaking the bank?

How should I dress for the climate?

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If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD. In Puerto Montt, you’ll catch one of the buses to Puerto Varas.

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How is the fishing in this area? How do I get to Puerto Varas?

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There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.

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Puerto Montt Is Puerto Montt safe?

What times of the day are the shops and restaurants open?

For the most part, Pto. Montt is a quiet city with few incidents of urban violence, but be smart and leave the bling-bling at home and use the buddy system when heading out to enjoy the night life.

Most shops are open Monday-Friday from 09:00 to 13:30 and then close for lunch until about 15:00, and then remain open again until around 19:00. Saturdays, from 09:00 to 13:00. Banks are open Monday-Friday, 09:00 to 14:00.

Who do I contact in case of an emergency?

Where can I buy handicrafts?

You can find the police station at Guillermo Gallardo 519, or dial 133. To call an ambulance, dial 131.

About 2 km. from the city center, you will find Caleta de Angelmo, home to a variety of handmade items, including wool sweaters, alpaca clothing, and leather items. Can I take a tour by boat? Sure, you can visit an island nature preserve in the area of Caleta de Angelmo. Just ask around near the Navimag dock for times and prices. Where can I get the best seafood? You’ll find a variety of restaurants in the area of Caleta de Angelmo with great seafood selections at reasonable prices.

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PTO. NATALES

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Cycling Chiloé: Castro and Chiloe National Park By Ernesto Palm del Curto • Translated by Carolina Wilson

Exploring the old country on two wheels.

hiloé is one of the most interesting places to visit in the Chilean Lake Region, with its beautiful scenery, and colorful, picturesque towns. Chiloé is a large island, which has helped minimize outside influences and preserve its unique culture.

A great way to visit the island is by bicycle. You can explore Castro, one of the oldest towns in Chile, and also visit Chiloé National Park, located in the sector called Cucao, 60 kilometers from Castro, on the Pacific coast.. Here’s an outline for a three-day trip, beginning in Puerto Varas, jumping-off point for many interesting activities in the region. On the first morning, we load our bicycles onto our vehicle, and head directly to Castro, choosing to avoid cycling on the northernmost road of the island, which has a lot of truck traffic.. To reach Chiloe, we cross the Chacao channel with a 45 minute ferry ride. Once in Castro, we can visit the market, museums, palafitos (houses on stilts), and church, and enjoy the flavors of the island in one of the local eateries.. For lodging, the new Hostal Palafito is a good choice, located in the Gamboa area. The hostal runs out of a traditional palofito, restored and upgraded to host travelers. It offers an unforgettable

experience, a snapshot into the ancestral dress and activity of this land, along with an excellent vista of the bay. The following day, we climb on our bikes early in the morning, heading toward Route 5. Leaving Castro, we pass the church of Nercòn. At 20 kilometers, at the latitude of Chonchi, is the side road toward Cucao and the Pacific Ocean. Lake Hullinco and Cucao offer enchanting scenery. At 38 kilometers, we arrive at the national park entrance, next to the sea. The majesty of the place draws us in. We have the option to stay the night at Parador Darwin, with excellent service, and unforgettable food. Or we can camp in the Chanquin and Cole-Cole sections of the park. The morning of our third and last day of the trip, we visit the main trails and beaches of the Park, leaving us with an unforgettable image of Chiloe, with its ancient forests, rich birdlife, and the Chilote culture woven into the fabric of this magical place.

IF time permits, we have the option of visiting the indigenous community of Quilque, located in this sector. If we obtain permission from the community leaders, we can follow a new route in the Park, which takes us to the intersection at Lago Cucao. Finally it is time to savor our last moments in the National Park, with the option to return to Puerto Varas the same day, or to remain on Chiloe and continue discovering the secrets and myths of this unique island. Ernesto Palm del Curto lives in Puerto Varas, “land of rain, wind and ancient trees”, which he deeply loves. He shares his passion for this region and its wild places with others through La Comarca Puelo Adventure, which offers a range of trips, as well as logistical support for self-guided treks and rides.

Support your local revolution...

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Great location - tips & travel info Airport Service – Internet WI-FI - Kitchen Facilities

Don’t forget to book in advance!

Phone/fax: 65-232044 Mobile: (9)-76486787 info@compassdelsur.cl www.compassdelsur.cl Klenner 467 Puerto Varas – Lake District

Enjoy the paper? Help us help you, and make a donation to Black Sheep via Paypal. blacksheepchile@gmail.com

December.08

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Pucón, Chile POPULATION: 21,000 FOUNDED: 1883 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hotsprings, lots to choose from on the main drag. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

questions & answers

Pucón, a quaint town built in the style of a German village, has something for everyone, from the thrill seeking adrenaline junkie to the couple looking for a romantic getaway. Along with things to see and do, you’ll find accommodation for all budgets, but hop online and book early, because most places fill up fast during the summer months. Pucón explodes with life during the summer months (OctoberMarch), when sunny days, green forests and blue skies, along with the alwaysactive Villarrica Volcano lure the masses. Whether you are looking for a guided ascent of the volcano, trekking in the Villarrica National Park, rafting or kayaking the Class III and IV rapids of the Trancura River, or an afternoon horse-

back riding or mountain biking, you’ll get your fill of thrills. Visit the Mapuche Museum on Caupolicán and learn about the culture of the indigenuos people. Take a cruise on Villarrica Lake aboard a steam-powered vessel, or just relax on one of the many black sand beaches. Shop for locally made handicrafts, and dine in one of more than 50 local restaurants, before ending the day with a long soak in one of the geothermal pools. Pucón also has a great nightlife and is relatively crime-free. The well-lit streets beckon night owls to hit the town after dark to dance the night away, or try their luck at the craps tables in the casino.

Do I need a permit to camp in the Park? No, there’s no camping fee, but it’s restricted around the volcano. Remember, it is an active volcano!

In 1984, but that was nothing major. The time before that was 1974, and 24 people were killed. Is there an entrance fee to the Park? Yes, about $8 bucks.

Latitude 39 Restaurant & bar American & international deli Best breakfast in town • Buckets of beer Home of the Chronic Cone!

ph. 09-74300016 Geronimo de Alderete 324

Pucón, Chile

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When was the last time it erupted?

Aside from visiting the Volcano and rafting, you can enjoy the amazing scenery on horseback, paragliding, or parachuting. Fly fishing is also very popular here, and you can book boat fishing tours. Keep in mind that all fishing is catch and release.

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What else can I do around here?

All year round, but winter is the best time if you want smaller crowds. You bet, it’s smoking 24-7, not unlike some people we know, but that is a good thing. It means the volcano is venting. If it stops smoking, then it’s time to start worrying.

Av Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins

When’s the best time to go rafting?

When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano?

Is the volcano active?

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General Basilio Unutia

There are three runs, the most exciting being the upper Río Trancura, with class III and IV rapids, depending on the time of the season. The lower Trancura is tamer but still class II-III in most places. You can also do a longer trip of a couple days on Río San Pedro through various companies in town.

Super chill. It’s a great scene for winter sports with fewer crowds, and it’s such an incredible experience to ski or board on an active volcano.

Colo Colo

Where is the best white water rafting?

It all depends on the weather and amount of rainfall, but generally speaking, the season is from late September to early April. For the upper Trancura, you’ll have to wait till around December. And remember during the height of the season (about December-February), the rapids can get pretty crowded.

What is the winter like?

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Most outfitters have everything you need for the activity you want to participate in, and the gear is usually included. But there is also gear rental if you plan on flying solo.

Iglesia Parroquial Santa Cruz

Can I rent gear in town?

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In case of a backcountry emergency, contact the Carbiñeros de Chile. They will organize the 50 or more guides, who live in Pucón and are always ready to lend a hand to their fellow outdoor enthusiasts.

Absolutely, there are numerous bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.

Calle Holzapiel

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Just a few blocks from the center, you can soak up all the UV you want, just don’t forget the SPF!

Is there a night life in Pucón?

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Yep! Enjoy the experience. Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area?

There’s a nine-hole course on the peninsula.You can rent a set of golf clubs at the course or in town at Sol y Nieve.

Can I drink the water in the Park?

Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?

Is there a golf course nearby?

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Pucón has a small hospital with an X-ray machine, and there are a few dentists to choose from. Anything serious is treated in Temuco, about an hour and a half away by car.

If you use a guide, transportation is included, but you can get into Villarica Park by taxi also, should be about $10 and you can hitch quite easily also. Pullman bus lines goes to Huerquehue Park twice daily for about $6 there and back.

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What if I need a doctor or dentist?

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You can’t pitch a cat without hitting a hostel in Pucón.

Is transportation to the trail heads available?

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Are there hostels close to the bus station?

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Where is the closest airport? In January and February, Lan and Sky Airlines fly direct to Pucón. Booking online has been problematic in the past, especially with a foreign credit card.You’re better off booking your flight locally at one of the carriers’ offices. Alternatively, you can fly to and from the international airport in Temuco, about two hours away from Pucón, by bus.

Monasterio Santa Clara

What options are there for public transport? Buses between the nearby town of Villarrica and Pucón run every 15 minutes through Buses Jac. Buses from Puerto Montt run four times a day, and from Temuco, every half hour. Taxis and

colectivos are available all over town. But, if you want to get off the beaten path or have a time constraint and want to see some more in less time, rent a car. There are a couple of car rental options on Colo Colo Street.You can also rent a bike for about 10 bucks a day. Who should I be tipping here?

El Barroso

Good People, Handmade Organic Food and Real Coffee

Fresia 135a Pucon, Chile

Your waiter would appreciate a 10% tip, if you’re happy with the service. The kid who bags your groceries at the market works solely on tips. And don’t forget to tip your guide if you have enjoyed a particularly good excursion. Where can I find a Black Sheep T-shirt?

Wood Fire Grilled Steaks Chilean Wines

organic food, wine and real italian coffee Corner of O’Higgins & Fresia, Pucón • trawen@gmail.com

You have to go to Puerto Natales for Sheep T’s. They’re at La Maddera (corner of Pratt & Bulnes).

Sheep Shearing Discounts w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

PucĂłn

CaĂąi Forest Presents...

PucĂłn Goes Primeval.

by Air, Land & Water

By Tracy Katelman By Anthony Riggs

Skydive PucĂłn Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Higgins #552 Located in the Container of the AerĂłdromo de PucĂłn

During a visit to PucĂłn, you could just load up the backpack and disappear for a week on some of the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s picturesque hiking trails, but you would be missing out on some of what PucĂłn really has to offer. PucĂłn is often referred to as the adventure travel capital of Chile. You can get your fill of thrill as you fly through the air, climb the active volcano and take on the forces of water and gravity. Here is just some of what you can do during the summer months... BY AIR Parachute... Jump out of a perfectly good airplane and--if you manage to open your eyes during the fall--take in a 360Âş view of green forest, blue lakes and four volcanoes. You can make your first jump a tandem jump with a professional instructor or go for the package deal and work your way up to your first solo free fall from as high as 9,000 feet. Parasail... Take a running start from the black sand beach of Lake Villarica and launch into the sky as you fly effortlessly through the air towed behind a power boat far below. You will feel snug and safe in your harness under a brightly colored nylon canopy while taking in a privileged view of PucĂłn that few others have experienced. Canopy...

before you take off for directions and a map to tour some of the area cascades by bike or if you really want a workout, head up the volcano road into Villarica National Park and feel the burn as you take in the views. Horseback riding... Spend the day walking the wooded trails surrounding PucĂłn mounted atop your trusty steed. Rather than spend the day lugging a heavy pack with your eyes looking down at your feet, enjoy the tranquility and sounds of nature by horseback and actually see your surroundings from a slightly higher vantage point. Some guided tours can end with a nice relaxing soak in a hot spring. What better way to end the day. BY WATER Blast through Class III and IV rapids in the chilly waters of the RĂo Trancura with a certified guide and feel the rush of the river as your make your way downstream past huge boulders and swirling whirlpools. Rafting is one of the most popular activities in the area and the river can get pretty crowded during the high season, so try to book your trip a few days in advance and, most importantly, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to close your mouth when the wall of water hits you in the face. Kayaking...

BY LAND

Hydrospeed...

Climb the volcano...

Shoot down the rapids like a torpedo on a hydrospeed sled. You will be taken by van upriver and be given a wet suit, flippers, helmet and your sled. After a brief safety lecture, you lay down on your belly and hang on to your hydrospeed for dear life as you and your guide bounce over river boulders and through the rapids. This is one activity that is not for the faint of heart.

Mountain bike... Get out under your own power and see some of the area attractions as you burn off those calories from the delicious dinners youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been enjoying in PucĂłn. Check with the rental company

Ronco Track Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Higgins 615 56-45-44 18 01 roncotrack@hotmail.com Sol Y Nieve Lincoyan 361-B 56-45 46 38 60 www.solynieve.cl Kayak Chile Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Higgins cellular 09-88373253 www.kayakchile.net

Rafting...

Zip over rivers and through the trees on a cable attached to your harness and experience forest travel as you never have before. The excursion starts with a short explanation and demonstration of the equipment and before you know it, you are flying under the cooling canopy of a native forest.

There are several companies to choose from to get you to the top of this part of the world, but the experience of climbing an active volcano is second to none and without a doubt, a must-do activity while visiting PucĂłn. All the gear and transportation are provided by the guide services. Just show up in the morning well rested, with your sunscreen and lunch in hand and you will be on your way. Plan to be out for the whole day and remember that mother nature has the final word as to whether you get to summit and look down into the crater at the red hot pool of lava below.

Bosque Aventura Arauco 611 Corner of Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Higgins 56-45 44 40 30 www.canoypucon.cl

Enjoy a fun trip with your friends or make some new ones along the way in the safety of an inflatable kayak as you travel down the RĂo Liucura or take a paddle around the peninsula on Lago Villarica and work on your tan in the process.

HosterĂa ÂĄĂŠcole! 5IF mSTU GVO QMBDF OPSUI PG UIF TPVUI QPMF

Turismo Aguaventura Calle Palguin 336 56-45 44 42 46 www.aguaventura.com Trancura Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Higgins 211 56-45 44 11 89 www.termastrancura.com Politur Travel and Adventure Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Higgins 635 56-45 44 13 73 info@politur.com

A visit to PucĂłn is not complete without a trip to the primeval CaĂąi Forest Sanctuary. One can go on endlessly about the CaĂąiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s importance in the history of Chilean forest preservation and as a sustainable eco-tourism project, its multiple forest ecosystems, and its deeper meaning as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;transforming vision,â&#x20AC;? the actual meaning of â&#x20AC;&#x153;CaĂąi.â&#x20AC;? What travelers need to know is that the hike into this forest is challenging, yet extremely worthwhile. We think of it as an aesthetically pleasing, green equivalent to climbing the volcano. This 500-hectare private park will surely take your breath away (not only because of the 1000m hike up to its ridge, or the 360Âş view of four volcanoes from the lookout). The prehistoric araucaria trees (Araucaria araucana, or monkey puzzle) are the CaĂąi. Among them and the many hidden lakes, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find yourself looking for dinosaurs. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a wilderness lover, you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to miss a trip to the CaĂąi. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great escape from the crowds you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find elsewhere around PucĂłn in summer. The CaĂąi is home to many native species, including mammals like the small Andean cat (huiĂąa), puma (mountain lion), and miniature deer (pudĂş); numerous birds (like the Magellanic woodpecker, condor, spectacled duck, ruddy-headed goose); flowers like copihue (Chileâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national flower), astromedia, forest star, and fuschias as tall as trees; and the endangered Darwin frog. With its purchase in 1989 to protect it from the chainsaws, the CaĂąi was the first private forest in Chile created by a non-profit organization. In 1999, the LahuĂŠn Foundation passed on park management to the CaĂąe [[editors note: this is the correct spelling for the guides]] Guides Association, a group of young, campesino neighbors committed to its long-term preservation. For more than eight years, the park has survived solely from donations generated by visitors, its native plant nursery, and its environmental education program. Paying for a knowledgeable CaĂąe Guide to accompany you is well worth it, and helps ensure the Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long-term viability. Trips to the CaĂąi can be arranged through HosterĂa ÂĄĂŠcole! in PucĂłn (Gen. Urrutia 592 @ Arauco, 045-441675), or by contacting the Guides directly (in Spanish) at 09-837-3928 or 09-9313846 (for trip support in English, contact ÂĄĂŠcole!). Daily trips with private transport leave PucĂłn around 9:30 am, and return in the early evening. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also possible to get to the trailhead in Pichares by bus (21 km from PucĂłn). Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a solid day of hiking, so be prepared. Consider ending your day with a visit to the nearby hot springs up the valley (Huife or Pozones).

Natural Park Adventure Arauco 302 56-45 44 43 58 www.naturalpark.cl Limay Tours Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Higgins 555 56-45 44 40 47 limay_pucon@yahoo.com

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Black Sheep

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The Independent Republic of Magallanes? By Sarah Anderson Flag of the XII Region of Magallanes & Antártica Chilena. (The blue represents the night sky, yellow is for the steppe, or pampa, and white for the snow-covered peaks. The stars are the Southern Cross, or Cruz del Sur.)

Far out.

www.patagoniablacksheep.com

Mandala Andino

Live your life to the fullest extent possible with bodywork based on gentle touch.

phone 56 61 414143 • mandalaandino@yahoo.com • Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile

ou may not be aware of it, but for many locals you are no longer in Chile. You are in the Independent Republic of Magallanes. Many travelers will have noticed the attractive Magallanes flag on jackets and bags, on local produce, painted on houses, hung outside public buildings and, of course, on the ubiquitous car sticker. Magallanes is still part of Chile but it is one of only two regions (Atacama being the other) that has its own flag. This flag was officially adopted in September 1996 as well as a coat of arms, a rosette, and a regional hymn. The ñirre tree, the calafate flower and the ñandu were also chosen as symbols to represent the region. Although the flag is flown most days in public places and buildings, it must be officially flown on September 21 (when the Strait of Magellan was claimed by Chile in 1843), September 29 (when Patagonia was incorporated into Chile in 1554) and on the Regional Day celebrated on October 21. So why is there a regional flag? Is there a serious separatist movement among the rebellious Magallanicos? The flag is hugely popular with the people of Magallanes, but perhaps it is more a representation of regional pride rather than a symbol of regionalist separatism. Interestingly the Facebook group “Republica Independiente de Magallanes,” with more than 5,000 members, appears to be a mainly nostalgic site for Magallanicos now living elsewhere, rather than a hotbed of activism. When asked, friends and acquaintances from the region unanimously declared themselves to be first and foremost Magallanicos. There is definitely a regionalist spirit with which most locals

identify. During the Pinochet era the region was kept in geographical and communicational isolation, and this helped to create a distinct identity. Another factor is the proximity of Argentina and the fact that Magallanes shares many more cultural similarities with the neighboring region of Santa Cruz than with the rest of Chile. Many Magallanicos feel that the region has been ignored by the decision makers in Santiago (although perhaps many other regions watching the daily news will share this sentiment). Flights to the region are the most expensive in continental Chile, and the goods and petrol/gas are the most costly. Magallanicos, many descended from immigrants from all over the world, have worked hard to create what is one of the most prosperous regions in Chile and they rightly feel proud of this achievement and somewhat slighted by the nortinos (northerners) who laugh at their sing-song way of speaking and funny expressions. Magallanicos are well-known for their solidarity with others, whether this is a gringo with a flat tire or a gaucho hitching to his estancia. This solidarity can be seen at its best in November when the region will engage in a massive fundraising frenzy to raise money for the local rehabilitation centers in Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. So a separate republic seems unlikely in the near future, but without a doubt the flag will continue to be flown and seen not only throughout Chile, but also--by judging from how popular it is with tourists--all over the world.

Free Information and Equipment Seminar 3 p.m. every day • Puerto Natales, Chile All welcome. Come grab a cup of real coffee and join the erratic rock team at 3 p.m. every day for a 1-hour, minimal-nonsense information session about trekking in Torres del Paine, equipment needs, packing for the trail, adventure options, meal preparation and anything else you need to know. All directly from the local guides.

erratic rock patagonia baquedano 719 puerto natales, chile www.erraticrock.com 56 61 410355

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