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Continuing from New York was pink in every shade... It proved to be a nice contrast to another popular color… London fashion week brought the perfect
and coats, while splashes of a hotter ma-
nine, but this wasn’t always the case,”
Saunders added articulate splashes of
tinued to experiment with pink in shades
counter to the prevalence of the color
genta came in brocades and plastic gems.
Katrantzou told Style.com. “When we were
the color in his collection about “joy and
ranging from magenta to pastel.
researching the collection and exploring
optimism” with ultra-pink stripes running
bright pink. Was it a response to Prime
On the whole, Katrantzou’s collection was
18th-century Victoriana, it was actually a
vertically down Jessica Stam’s slitted shift
Two of the most show-stopping pink
a fashion staple, we especially appreciate
Minster David Cameron’s rhetoric on aus-
full of innovative solutions to common
shade used to represent stamina and pow-
dress, as well as a pair of lean tuxedo
pieces from London appeared at Toga and
those designers who buck tradition and go
terity? Or maybe just a much-needed dose
fashion problems: how to advance fabrica-
er; a masculine alternative to red.
pants in the same shade that mixed strong
Christopher Kane: the former showing
big with prints. As usual, we found some
of optimism? Whatever the reason, the
tions and still make clothing wearable; how
tailoring with a bit of fun.
a velvet coat in true shocking pink, and
of our favorite bold patterns and kooky
hue had its moment in the British capital
to stay true to a brand’s core ethos while
In the collection, we sought to redefine
the latter, a rose-hued male figure coiled
combinations from Fashion Week go-tos in
and gave fashion fans something to smile
experimenting in new arenas; and how to
its connotations by filtering it through a
Roksanda featured the color in furs, shear-
around the torso of a cocktail dress, geni-
every city – from Paris’s Carven to Milan
about during the week.
wear pink, of all hues, while retaining a
modernist lens.” Heady inspirations aside,
lings, and tweeds, while Erdem Moralioglu
talia on full display.
print-masters Missoni and Emilio Pucci
strong attitude.
you’ll be sure to find Katrantzou’s magenta
opened his show with a series of dresses in
outerwear and techy dresses on the backs
dusty pink brocades, some turned inside
Prints, colors, and textures came together
Katrantzou to New York mix-and-match pros Suno and Clover Canyon.
In Mary Katrantzou’s horror vacui-themed
In a world where minimalism is becoming
and from London’s Peter Pilotto and Mary
collection, bubblegum pink oversize pyra-
“By common association, pink is often
of Britain’s best It girls come fall. On the
out. House of Holland and Sibling, both
and clashed together in some of the most
midal studs decorated the hips of skirts
viewed as saccharine and overly femi-
same day as Katrantzou’s show, Jonathan
long-standing fans of a neon moment, con-
exciting looks in London. Matchy-matchy
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black on New York’s Fall 2015 runways:
is overrated anyway.
Still, the Spring 2015 collections also
as ever, and wouldn’t you know it, several
scarves and fluffy clutches down the
brought out vibrant colors at Marni, bold
capes walked the runway. If there’s anyone
runway. There’s no doubt that a shot of
birds at Marchesa, and some fabric graffiti
out there who can start a trend, it’s her.
coloured fur makes something seriously
at Donna Karen. The wallpaper prints
luxe a little more playful.
were Often times piled one on top of the
Even Burberry knows that next autumn
other, these prints add color and complexi-
is not a taupe-trenchcoat moment. The
Designers are not shying away from fringe
ty to any look.
Burberry catwalk – which, for an autumn/
this season.
winter season, is all about outerwear – beHonorable mention goes to upholstery
gan with a poncho of clashing multicolored
At all. Not only does it seem like everyone
prints, part of the same category. Here, a
prints, and ended with a full-length fringed
is using it, they are using it to the extreme.
collection of the powerful patterns that we
burgundy suede cape.
Burberry brought it in every iteration. Entire capes swayed in suede as the models
Fox was the fur of choice in New York,
walked. Leopard print hid beneath it on
Kate Moss showed up to Burberry Prorsum
while London went for something on the
bucket bags and high heels disappeared
draped in a (fringed) cape looking as chic
fluffier side. Roksanda sent bright belted
behind thick curtains.
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dare you to wear next year.
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At this years London Fashion Week 2015,
week’s greatest stage set (typewriters and
New York: Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley
the list of designers was incredible. Not
houseplants, splay-legged mid-century fur-
at Marc by Marc Jacobs, and Stuart Vevers
only in how many were being showcased
niture, yellowing piles of Paris Match) but
at Coach. Henry Holland called his girls
but because of the amount of attention
a starting point “to think about creating a
“trustafarian street urchins”, which is a
they were each getting; big and small de-
character as much from her environment
cute-yet-acute moniker for his own girl
signers/brands.
as from her clothes”. With rich brocades,
gang – Alexa, Pixie, Daisy and co – who
cut-out lace and cocktail dresses lush with
worked their own you-wanna-be-in-our-
Erdem maintained London’s status as the
poppies, an Erdem wardrobe is a modern
gang vibe from the front row.
city that dresses the art world...
investment. Jonathan Saunders offered a modern upHouse of Holland brought the girl gang
was blurred ever further, in a super-chic
trend home...
way, at Erdem’s show. The reigning British
date of the 70s trend... Stockpile those polo necks with abandon,
Designer of the Year took as his starting
The travelators that replaced the cat-
because the 70s are not going anywhere.
point The Collector, the immersive installa-
walk at House of Holland weren’t just a
The decade was the headline influence
tion recreating a late-1960s
gimmick. Instead of prancing along the
on this London fashion week, from folksy
catwalk, models could stand, feet planted
embroidery and flares to round sunglasses
Paris apartment that was the buzz-piece
defiantly apart, staring out the photogra-
and fringing.
at Frieze Masters last autumn. The theme
phers: they looked tough.
will be catnip to the gallerists, curators and
Jonathan Saunders, in his first collection
collectors who already swoon over Erdem
It was the best London showing for a na-
since gaining the firepower of a serious
(as they do over Roksanda, and Mary
scent tough-girl-gang trend, which started
backer, gave the strongest modern update
Katrantzou) and gave him not only the
among the British designers who show in
on the decade with tunics layered over
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The line between Frieze and fashion week
Topshop Unique gave us a shiny view from
sleazy-shiny skirt worn with a tweed biker
Even Burberry knows that next autumn is
and a polo neck, and a lush milk-chocolate
not a taupe-trenchcoat moment. The Burb-
velvet jumpsuit, hit catwalk gold.
erry catwalk – which, for an autumn/winter
the high street... Unpatriotic though it may be to admit
season, is all about outerwear – began Kanye delivers fashion — and a showstop-
with a poncho of clashing multicoloured
ping front row...
prints, and ended with a full-length fringed
it, one of the most important names at
burgundy suede cape. In between, intricate
London fashion week is Saint Laurent. The
After a near 45-minute wait, attendees of
swirls and florals inspired by Durham
allure of Hedi Slimane-era Saint Laurent
the curious Kanye West x Adidas collab-
quilting swayed along to Clare Maguire’s
is plain as day in the front row, where
oration were ushered into a completely
live soundtrack next to mirror-embroi-
YSL-initialled bags have overtaken Chanel
dark room. The lights came on to reveal
dered suede. Buy a midi-length suede skirt
2.55s as the trophy of the hour.
the collection — and illuminate the most
now, and start saving for a jacket next
impressive front row this season: Beyoncé,
season. Quilting was also a key reference
Topshop, having taken an accurate tem-
Jay Z, Sean Combs, Rihanna, Justin Bieber,
at Hunter, another heritage-rich British
perature reading among the in-crowd,
Alexander Wang and the Kardashian clan
outerwear label, so be on the lookout for a
produced a collection that mixed Saint
(Kris, Kim, Khloé and Kendall).
fully fledged revival.
Laurent’s insouciant party-girl cool with
the 1980s-Kings-Road-Saturday-night vibe
Burberry told us that next season’s coat
zooming up on fashion’s inside lane. A
will be suede or quilted...
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70s-skiwear polo necks.
jacket and a red lace mini dress, Cara took
Finishing her simple and sleek outfit with
her outfit to the next level in the fall 2015
black heels and a slinky top and, of course,
Cara, 22, swapped her usual tomboy aes-
star-studded front row, as they sat togeth-
was given a fringed makeover, as were the
printed over-the-knee suede boots which
sunglasses, the 41-year-old living legend
thetic for a more girly appearance, wearing
er pride of place throughout the catwalk
brand’s winter ponytail booties.
an incredibly short burgundy skirt with an
show, which saw a colourful array of
The staple trench, meanwhile, came in
intricate and 1970s-inspired design.
boho-inspired designs stalk the runway on
paisley prints in blossom hues, while teal
the backs of the slender catwalk models.
and olive maxi dresses made a comeback
hit the trend spot with its bohemian vibe
- who arrived with photographer Mario
and innovative aesthetic. We wouldn’t kick
Testino - kept her blonde tresses in an
these off our shoe shelf! And despite not
easy, breezy and typically mussed-up style
being up for grabs just yet, you can cotton
for her appearance.
and were worn with the tiniest of waist-
She added a leather jacket with a woolly trim to her figure-hugging mini, and Burb-
Cara and Jourdan were in fantastic spirits
Her best friend and colleague Naomi, 44,
erry over-the-knee boots in grey, red and
as they chatted and giggled ahead of the
put on a more opulent display in a heav-
okra tones, adding to her nostalgic look
show, before looking visibly impressed
for Cara Delevingne, who landed her first
in the style edit below – Cara has mod-
ily-embellished pencil skirt in delicious
even more, which she took up yet another
with Christopher Bailey’s latest creations
major modeling job with British brand
eled them after all! Style with a buttoned
olive and yellow tones.
level with her round-framed sunglasses.
for the popular British label.
Burberry and can wear any design she
down denim mini skirt and crop top for
She balanced out the slim fit of the skirt
fancies, even before the models have had a
your next night out. For onlookers, it was
with an eye-catching large and incredibly
And 24-year-old Jourdan flaunted her
Named Patchwork, Pattern & Prints, Burb-
chance to showcase them on the catwalk.
difficult to say who cut a more stunning
fluffy white coat, which on a mere mortal
toned abs in a pair of printed loose-fit
erry is bringing back bohemian style for
Lucky girl!
figure, but it’s fair to say each of the leggy
would have looked over the top.
trousers, worn with a black crop top with a
AW15 with a print-filled show nostalgic of
low-cut neckline.
the 70s.
of edge to her get-up with a pair of black
She covered up - albeit ever so slightly -
Known for his ability to reinvent trends
When you’re closely affiliated to one of the
onto the thigh high boot trend because it’s
biggest fashion houses in the world, it has
still going strong.
its perks. And that goes without saying
Why not try Topshop’s amazing versions
beauties put on a brilliant and fashionable Here, Cara swaps her usual position on
showing as they arrived.
the runway for the best seat on the FROW
The stunning British model added a touch
at Burberry’s autumn/winter 2015 show,
Kate opted for a head-to-toe black en-
ankle boots while carrying a clutch in her
with a leather jacket and added even more
time and time again, Bailey updated the
but not before she did a traditional LFW
semble, highlighting her slim pins with
arms, her hair styled to perfection in a
height to her lofty frame with a pair of
poncho of last season with the help of
pose in front of the paps in her head-to-toe
a classic pair of skinny jeans and adding
sleek ‘do with a full fringe. Meanwhile, the
dove grey strappy heeled sandals, adding
some fashionable fringing - and Kate Moss
Burberry ensemble.
some serious style flair with an on-trend
younger models decided to flash a little
yet another dash of glamour with her
arrived wearing a black version before it
suede cape, complete with oversized fringe
bit more skin than their mentors as they
sleek, centre-parted hairstyle.
had even hit the runway.
details.
arrived for the catwalk show, despite the The ladies made for a showstopping
Burberry’s new arm candy, the bucket bag,
Wearing the brand’s leather and shearling
chilly February temperatures.
coats.
BEES KNEES - MAY 2015 | 15
Be a trend-setter in Cara’s printed suede Burberry boots...