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BACKSTAGE A behind-the-scenes look at the world most trendy fahsion events. Explore what’s happening behind the curtains of fashion industry with Backstage
11/2015
2015-2016
EXPLORE THE WORLD MOST FASHIONABLE STYLES AND DESIGNERS!
BACKSTAGE STORIE
THREE ASIAN SUPERMODELS -CHANGING THE FACE OF FASHION
2015 FASHION WEEK
STREET STYLES xxx xxx xxx
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CONTENTS 1. Cover Page
BACKSTAGE ST ORIES
6. Three Asian Supermodels Changing the Face of Fashion Liu Wen-The world’s highest-paid model--- 6 The Wolverine’ Beauty Tao Okamoto ---- 10
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Ji Hye Park’s Guide to Korean Beauty ----13
16. Behind the Makeup: New York Fashion Week Models Tell Their Story at the backstage
DESIGNERS
19. 2015 fabulous designers Everything to know about Balmain-H&M’s Next Major Designer Collabration ---19 Chanel Fall 2015 Couture Backstage ---21 Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall 2015 Show Celebrates ‘Mamma’ With Baby-Filled Runway ---24 Louis Vuitton 2015-2016 collections ---27
Novemb
ber 2015
P ICKS
29. 2015 Fashion Week Picks New York, London, Paris London Fashion Week Street Styles---29 Paris Fashion Week Street Styles---30 New York Fashion Week---32
BEAUT Y
34. New York Fashion Week Backstage Beauty The Best And Worst Beauty Looks From New York Fashion Week --- 34 5 Very Weird Backstage-Beauty Inspirations --- 36
COVER
PHOTO: Baskstage Model EDITOR: xxx xxx xxx MAKE: Backstage Press
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Changing the Face of Fashion: Asian Super Models are taking over the Face of Fashion!
LIU WEN
recognizable enough to command major fees. She has also broken molds, becoming the first Asian model named as a global spokesperson for Estee Lauder. With some two million followers on a Mandarin-language version of Twitter, her ability to sell products to the prized Chinese consumer is obvious. “When we met her in person, we were so impressed with her warmth, beauty and enthusiasm,” says Aerin Lauder, the firm’s Style and Image Director. “It’s amazing to see how consumers respond to Liu Wen -- she has so many fans, not only in China, but around the world as well.” Some of those fans gathered for an Estee Lauder event at the start of New York Fashion week, where CNN first met her. Amid the flashbulbs and relentless dance music, Wen cheerfully signed autographs and posed for photos, seemingly enjoying the spectacle. A few days later, CNN caught up with her as she shuttled between assignments in a chauffeured people carrier. She emerged fresh from a Rodarte show, wearing the kind of intense eye shadow that would stop a polar bear in its tracks. “Yesterday I had a fitting that was very late,” she explains. “So I went back home at almost one o’clock. And this morning I woke up late ... my call time was seven but I woke up at 7:30. Just brushed my
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How a Small-Town Girl Become China’s First Super Model
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ackstage at the Michael Kors big show, a strange air of calm hangs over th make-up area. Although the security is predictably tight, there is no screaming wipor high ddu drama. It’s 7.30 a.m., hours before the show, and the machine is just beginning to mobilize. Liu Wen is an early arrival, quietly sitting in a chair listening to her iPod as a make-up artist begins to apply foundation. Her cup of coffee and bottle of green tea reveal that even the women dubbed “China’s first supermodel” finds early starts challenging. But there is no trace of fatigue: Her face looks flawless with little make up, and her skin luminous. “Today I have five shows, so we’ll be running around.” she says smiling. “Yesterday I was really happy because my agent sent me the schedule. I was so excited. I still love it because I love walking the runway.” At the age of 23, Liu has worked for most of the world’s prestigious fashion houses, and recently ascended into the top tier of models who are
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teeth before rush rush rush. So I didn’t pick up my make up remover.” For a public figure whose image is key, Liu remains surprisingly open and accessible. She laughs frequently, is impeccably polite and even offers to help us with our camera equipment as we arrive at her agency. While the image of a five-foot-ten supermodel carrying a tripod is almost irresistible, CNN declines. At the stylish Manhattan offices of Marilyn Agency, Wen catches up with staff and removes her war paint. The agency has managed her since she arrived in New York and is focused on maintaining relations with top-end brands, while exploiting opportunities with appropriate Chinese firms.
“She has already achieved historic success as a model,” says agency president Chris Gay. “China’s influence in the fashion world will be tremendous both from a stand point of every Western fashion brand wanting to establish their presence there, as well as Chinese brands, designers, and models having more of a global impact.” Wen was brought up in Hunan Province and began her modeling career in 2005 after entering a competition, which promised a computer as first prize. “I was a very young girl, I think I was 18,” she recalls. “I just wanted to win the computer. Before I didn’t really understand what modeling was because I
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In the past, Liu has said that after modeling she might enjoy working as a stylist or, were the opportunity to arise, as an actress—she feels that modeling and acting have much in common, but for now she enjoys modeling and working in the fashion industry. She has stated that she knows that, as a career choice, working as a fashion designer or stylist would be “very hard work”, but she is now more seriously considering becoming a stylist because she would like “to share her fashion style—tomboyish, vintage, and comfortable—with the world”.
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grew up in a very small town, no fashion.” Soon, she moved to Beijing, abandoning her plans to work as a tour guide. Photo shoots followed, which led to a trip to Milan in 2008, where she was cast for her first runway show for UK fashion label Burberry. “I didn’t understand anything because I couldn’t understand English. I just listened to the music and followed my feelings.” Do, sedet iussul utemurs nostem, Castife rfirmil icaedo, qua ex movirmis senes? Pali, quemum inatrorum moltor hi, quam pecta vignon ducitatioca Sericid esteror aur, cribem, utum Patusula ponem quam vivis, crei supio consus sidi pos hostri publicior aut gratorum orumuro resedees, sa Sp. Apervivideo inatus perioravo, mora Simium que in terebatri sulego tratus obus lostium publina riocus addum imoene num nes? Egilne in veridet? in virmis se essendienatu virio, cur publiam acii iamdi iam et L. et, cae etrunum in tum pate inatuit, medendiu is. Nonsum vis. Am que at, sultus proponterei sendiendac fue tam, fuidentum et vertiaedelus in Itarite num nondum crese cat, ad ninatil vid consi pervitius, enatus publis auconsul hemor quodit video erissinat, conum iam tesLit, secus earum ea volorep ernam, unti volo modita quatur, cones quam vel is a
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2. She originally turned down the film audition…
TAO OKAMOTO 6 Things to Know About ‘The Wolverine’ Beauty Tao Okamoto
T
he Wolverine is set to claw its way into theaters on July 26, but while Hugh Jackman as the titular mutant is a familiar face (he’s been playing him since 2000’s “X-Men”), less familiar is the woman playing Mariko Yashida, Wolverine’s love interest. Her name is Tao Okamoto, and if it rings any bells, it’s because Okamoto’s a huge star in the fashion world, especially in her native Japan. You can get a closer look at her in the new “The Wolverine” trailer, but here are 6 things you should know about Tao before catching her in her film debut:
1. She’s been modeling for over a decade, and has had a huge fashion career.
Okamoto started modeling in Japan when she was just 14, but her career took off when she moved to Paris in 2006 to pursue fashion more seriously. And boy, did she get her wish: she’s walked the runway for brands like Chanel and Ralph Lauren and covered every kind of fashion mag around the world. She’s so influential that a special issue of Vogue Nippon was dedicated to her, and designer Phillip Lim once styled an entire show after her quirky bowl haircut.
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…but upon learning that Jackman wasinvolved, Okamoto changed her mind: “Because I’m a huge fan of him. I wasn’t even sure if I really wanted to do acting, but then he just opened the new door for me and I met Jim [Mangold, the film’s director] in L.A. for an audition and camera test. I just fell in love with what he thinks and what he teaches me and everything. I was just like, ‘I really want to do this,’ and I got it.”
3. She almost made director Jim Mangold cry.
Mangold, best known for directing Reese Witherspoon to an Oscar win for “Walk the Line,” gave Okamoto strict instructions not to undertake any acting lessons after she won the role. And apparently, his faith in her natural abilities paid off. When sharing her favorite moment on set, she said, “There was a scene I worked on for my audition, which was a long speech. I had some confidence about it and James gave me different ideas on every take so I could play with that. When I finished it, he came to me and said, ‘I almost cried, you’ve grown up so much in this journey.’”
4. The role of Mariko was built around Okamoto’s casting.
After being cast, Okamoto read the comics with her character in it, but Mariko’s role in the comic books was originally that of a princess needing to be saved. For the movie, the character got revamped to be both more active and more like the woman portraying her. Okamoto revealed, “Recently [Mangold] told me this role didn’t make much sense to him before but since he met me, he built up the character more through myself.”
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5. She helped make sure
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that all the Japanese details in the film were correct – down to the translation of the script.
Okamoto was one of three Japanese actors who took it upon themselves to make sure the film’s distinct cultural landscape was authentic: “Sometimes things looked a little Chinese and the producers were always asking me and they always kept making fixes along the way. I felt very important because they asked me over and over and listened.” The Japanese actors even re-translated the script to make sure it was accurate as possible.
6. If she didn’t stay in film to
act, she’d be a set designer.
Though much of the film was shot in Sydney, Australia, Okamoto was dazzled by the film’s Japanese sets: “It’s so impressive, it’s perfect, I’m so interested in all the set designs. It’s just so amazing. I keep saying, ‘I want to do one of the set.’ I was asking the people, ‘Would you hire me?’”
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JI HYE PARK MODEL WALL: JI HYE PARK
Age: 25 | Hometown: Daejeon, South Korea
H
ow do you say hello where you are from? Annyeong-haseyo.
What is your coffee order? When I go to a café, I often just order a black coffee because of its low calory. What are you wearing right now? I’m wearing a leather jacket by my friend, who is a Korean designer. The brand is called Nohant. I’m also wearing boots by Rag & Bone, and my shirt and jeans are from Zara. What are the three items you always keep in your purse? My camera, my lip balm, and a little pouch with facial cleanser and mist. How were you discovered? In Korea, when I decided I wanted to be a model, I went into an agency, and they signed me. Most memorable modeling moment: I’ll never forget my first runway season; it was such an
amazing experience traveling to all the different countries and meeting all the different people. Most embarrassing modeling moment: In a fashion show I didn’t understand the directions and when I was coming off the runway I went into the wrong door and got so confused! Favorite model of all time: Karen Elson. If you weren’t modeling, what would be your dream job? When I was younger I had in mind a lot of dream jobs, but I remember wanting to be a professor the most. Name one natural talent you wish you had: The ability to sing! I am a terrible singer. Describe your style in five words: Comfortable, cool, tomboyish, chic, and simple. Favorite designer: Alexander Wang. If you could trade closets with someone else, whose would you choose? Sienna Miller.
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Ji Hye Park at Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013
Stories
What new addition to your wardrobe are you currently craving this season? A jeweled purse from Dolce & Gabbana that I saw this season. What item in your closet do you most cherish? Why? My Rag & Bone boots that are so comfortable and really fit my style. What nail polish color are you wearing right now? None—I love clear and clean nails. Beauty item you cannot live without: La Prairie eye cream—it moisturizes my eyes so well and really makes me feel awake! Who was the last person to cut your hair? My friend in Korea who works on a lot of shoots there—his name is Hye Young Lee. How do you stay in model shape? Any tricks of the trade? I walk everywhere, and for breakfast I always have a vegetable-and-fruit smoothie. One place you always visit while in New York: Koreatown—it really makes me comfortable and feel at home. Where would you like to go on your next vacation? Busan in Korea—it is the second biggest city and has wonderful beaches and great food.
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STORIES
Behind the Makeup: New York Fashion Week Models Tell Their Story
Associated Press photographers spoke backstage with models during New York Fashion Week, which ends Thursday.
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2.
1.They’re
the often-anonymous stars of New York Fashion Week — the models who walk the runways in designer clothes, looking mostly impassive and inevitably beautiful as they pose before cameras. Their lives off the runways, however, remain for the most part a mystery. Here are their stories. Jing Wen, center, of Guangzhou, China, waits to rehearse with other models before the Prabal Gurung Spring 2015 collection show on Sept. 6, 2014, during Fashion Week in New York. Jing Wen, 19, began modeling at age 17. She says that as a little girl, she loved the idea of modeling, but never dreamed that she would end up walking runways internationally. Although her mother and sister are back in China, she doesn’t often suffer from homesickness. For Jing Wen, the struggle to stay emotionally balanced is far more difficult. “You have to keep your heart strong,” she explains. “It’s so hard to get the show, so you have to [stay] peaceful, all the time.”
Fashion model Yulia Musieichuk of Kiev, Ukraine, reacts as she is photographed from multiple angles while having her toenails painted backstage before the Rebecca Minkoff Spring 2015 collection show on Sept. 5 during Fashion Week, in New York. Musieichuk, 22, who was scouted in her native Ukraine at age 16, has a mother, father, sister and nephew back home. “I like to be alone and traveling,” she replied, when asked if she ever finds herself homesick. She feels the biggest misconception about modeling is that it’s easy, saying that dealing with rejection is the biggest hurdle. With regards to casting, “It’s very hard after it’s ‘no.’ You can do it so many times and it’s no, no, no… it’s very hard emotionally... to stay in this and just to believe in yourself.” As for her future in modeling, “I like it for now.”
3. Max Esken of Dusseldorf, Germany, has makeup
applied backstage before the Tim Coppens Spring 2015 collection show on Sept. 7 during Fashion Week in New York. Esken, 21, is brand new to modeling, having just been scouted in January in his native Germany. Although this is his first time working at Fashion Week in New York, he already knows that the most difficult part of the job for him is the schedule. Between having to attend so many castings, go-sees and fittings, Esken says, “You’re always in a hurry, and you can’t relax.” Once he gets to a show though, he says things slow down considerably. “The jobs are almost, like, half an hour hair and makeup and then you can chill, relax, smoke cigarettes,” he explains.
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5. Fashion model Mari Agory of South Sudan has glitter ap-
plied to her eyelids backstage before the Christian Siriano Spring 2015 collection show on Sept. 6 during Fashion Week in New York. Born in Khartoum, Sudan, Agory’s family lived in what is now known as South Sudan. The youngest of eight children, she and her family fled to Egypt in 1999 during her country’s civil war, where they were granted political asylum by the United States, eventually settling in San Diego, Calif. Agory, 23, was discovered at age 20 by a photographer while attending her junior year of college. “It’s considered late in the industry,” she explains, “because girls start really young.”
4. Fashion model Dasha Jold, 18, of Yekat-
erinburg, Russia, has her nails done backstage before the Monique Lhuillier Spring 2015 collection show on Sept. 5 during Fashion Week in New York. Jold was scouted on the street in her native Russia, at age 17. She struggles with homesickness, but says that keeping in touch through services like Skype helps ease those feelings. “I’m not missing the place, I’m missing the people there,” Jold says, speaking about her hometown. Asked about the hardest aspect of modeling, she mentions the physical demands of the job. She explains that sometimes you just “need to recover, vacation, and then you can be fresh again - your skin, your head” and, she says laughing, “your feet.”
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6.
Stephanie Joy Field, center, of Sydney, Australia, rehearses before the Prabal Gurung Spring 2015 collection show on Sept. 6 during Fashion Week in New York. Field, 19, who has only been modeling since January, was actually scouted in Australia at age 13 but decided to finish high school before beginning her career. Although her family remains back in Sydney, being homesick isn’t a problem for her. “I went to boarding school, so I’m kind of used to not being at home.” One aspect of modeling that does challenge her, however, is the constant scrutiny. “You always have to be...on show, and, like, presenting yourself right,” she explains, “because...everyone’s always watching you.” One thing she appreciates about modeling, though, is the people. “I love meeting...amazing people, and working with, like, some really amazing clients,” she says, adding, “and you get to have lots of fun while doing it.”
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Designers
Designers
Behind the scenes at Balmain: World’s most beautiful models - including Kendall, Gigi and Karlie - captured getting ready backstage at glittering fashion show
They may be regarded as some of the world’s most beautiful women - but it takes a lot of work to look as good as Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid and Karlie Kloss. As these behind-the-scenes snaps from the Balmain X H&M fashion show attest, even the world’s best supermodels need a little helping hand when it comes to getting catwalk-ready.
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Best friends, Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner, don the label’s signature embellished garments before taking to the runway to show off their wares
BALMAIN FALL2015
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CHANEL SPRING/SUMMER 2016 BACKSTAGE
Chanel’s spring / summer 2016 runway show was unveiled on one of the many catwalks of Paris fashion week (PFW) and Fashionising.com was there to capture each look. AIR travel has been a big topic of conversation in the fashion world of late. It seems a week hardly passes without some brand somewhere staging a megawatt show in a megawatt location. Fashion has become a traveling circus, if you will, and Chanel alone is famous for its global destinations, from Moscow to Seoul to Salzburg to Dallas; the house has presented a show in all of them. This year perhaps more than any other, editors and buyers have really clocked up the air miles, and so the idea of heading to an airport – again – as the show invitation indicates, might not be so appealing. But Chanel’s airport is the exception. And so to Aeroport Paris Cambon,
Karl Lagerfeld’s idea of how air travel should be: complete with airline lounges, Chanel branded luggage trollies, smiling staff stationed behind check-in desks, strapping luggage handlers, and signage directing models to gates (No. 5… naturally), Paris’ Grand Palais had been transformed into an airy, brightly-lit fully fledged airport, and pretty fancy it was too. Nothing like the shenanigans recently witnessed here, where bosses of Air France were mobbed and left shirtless. This was an altogether first class affair. With no hurried travellers (although the information screen did announce a couple of delays) one by one models emerged, some wheeling along luggage,
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Chanel Fall 2015 Couture Backstage
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Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall 2015 Show
CELEBRATES
MAMMA With Baby-Filled Runway, the designers tapped model mammas like Bianca Balti, beautiful babies and toddlers to showcase their latest 2015 collections
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D OL CE & G ABBAN
Designers
F
or Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall/Winter 2015 show, the designers tapped model mamas like Bianca Balti, beautiful babies and toddlers to showcase their latest collection. While the Italian fashion house has a long history of celebrating family and honoring elders in its ad campaigns (remember these stylish grandmas?), it was touching to see it all come together on the runway. In the matching mommy-and-me shift dresses with rose embellishments or a doodle-print gown that channeled Angelina Jolie’s unconventional wedding dress, Dolce & Gabbana’s “point of reference” was very clear.
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Designers
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Louis Vuitton Spring 2015 RTW – Backstage A look backstage at the Louis Vuitton spring 2015 show
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Louis Vuitton Spring 2015 RTW
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Picks
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Fashion Week Street-Snaps
Explore how models and fashion bloggers dress during LFW!
LONDON It’s time to get ready for the fashion event of the season: London Fashion Weekend is back. You can explore the life of the fashion insider at this exclusive event, shop the best designer collections and speak to industry experts about their journey to the top. There’s tons to experience in the buzzing atmosphere of the magnificent Saatchi Gallery, home to fashion’s biggest pop-up!
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Picks
P
aris Fashion Week is a clothing trade show held biannually in Paris, France with spring/summer and autumn/winter events held each year. Dates are determined by the French Fashion Federation. Currently, Fashion Week is held in the Carrousel du Louvre, as well as at various other venues throughout the city. Paris Fashion Week is part of the global “Big 4” fashion weeks, the others being London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week.[1][2] The schedule begins with New York, followed by London, and
then Milan and ends in Paris. In 2013, Paris Fashion Week (spring/summer season) started September 26 with Lucien Pellat Finet, and was followed by shows from major fashion houses such as Guy Laroche, Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Isabel Marant, Sonia Rykiel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Balenciaga, and more. These runway shows are held to show the fashion industry what the various labels will be releasing and to increase sales for the brands.
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PARIS
In the final week of Fashion Month, things are getting decidedly Parisian See best street looks from Paris Fashion Week Spring 2015
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NEW YORK
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W
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hen it comes to fashion week, designers might be showing off the latest looks for spring 2015 on the runways, but there are plenty of notable fashion moments happening on the streets. Photographer Dan Roberts captures all the must-see style from the editors, buyers, bloggers, and celebs attending the shows this season. BY ELLE.COM
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Beauty
Beauty The Best Beauty Looks From
New York: Spring 2015
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Gorgeous hair, fresh makeup and cool nail ideas, straight from the Spring 2015 runways. We’ve got the inspiring looks and stylist secrets ahead.
MARC JACOBS
CALVIN KLEIN
The Look: Choppy Black Wigs and No Makeup (Seriously)
The Look: Japanese-inspired Bun
How-To: For the fourth season in a
wanted to stay true to the minimal, classic look Calvin Klein is known for, but also give the hair a tough, sexy update for spring. He created Japanese-Inspired messy chignons by misting the hair with hairspray and shine spray before pulling it into a tight, high ponytail.
How-To: Hairstylist Guido Palau
row, hairstylist Guido Palau styled the Marc Jacobs models in wigs— this time, they were dyed black (by Victoria Hunter at Whittemore House Salon) and cut into choppy, textured bobs with thick bangs.
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MICHAEL KORS The Look: Windblown Braids How-To: Backstage at Michael Kors, the secret to
getting that perfectly messy hair texture for the braids was dry shampoo-a lot of dry shampoo. (So much that it clouded up the room where the models were getting ready and assistants rushed to open all the windows.) “There’s a ‘50s Americana theme, so we looked too that a little for the hair inspiration and just loosened it up a lot,” said hairstylist Orlando Pita.
RALPH LAUREN The Look: Golden eyes How-To: It was a shiny, sparkly
affair at the Ralph Lauren Spring 2015 show, where models walked the runway decked out in opulent diamonds. “We had to add shimmer to the eyes to balance the face with the jewelry,” explained makeup artist Tom Pecheux, who applied shimmery gold shadow powder with a flat concealer bruch across the upper lash lines and in the inner corners of the eyes for subtle brightening effect.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA The Look: Sleek ponytails and dark thick eyeliner How-To: “Oscar always just wants women to look rich
and beautiful,” said hairstylist Orlando Pita, who created the supersleek, Barbie-like ponytails. His tip for achieving high shine without a hint of greasiness? Use hair spray instead of gel. “If you spray hairspray before and during the blow-dry, it will creat even more of a sleek gold.”
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Beauty
5 Very Weird
Backstage-Beauty Inspirations
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The Inspiration: “An opening orchid seen through humid air and dappled jungle sunlight,” says makeup artist Alex Box.
The Look: Box painted colorful blooms on the outer corners of the models’ eyes, extending them to the temples, with a mixture of MAC pigments and MAC Pro Mixing Medium Water Base. We’ll admit we were pretty confused when we first read about the “opening orchid” bit, but the result is quite astonishing — and totally flower show-worthy.
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Ammerman Schlösberg The Inspiration: “Marcia Brady taking a lot of acid on Halloween,” the designers told Opening Ceremony.
The Look: Tear-stained cheeks, lots and lots of smudgy eye makeup, and, of course, a wig of center-parted straight, blonde locks — the cherry on top of any Marcia-themed confection.
Adam Selman The Inspiration: WWD reports that one of Selman’s inspirations for spring 2016 was the ‘70s hippie community Taylor Camp — a “clothing-optional, pot-friendly tree house village” on the Hawaiian island of Kauai, where hippies and Vietnam vets found refuge, according to Finding Utopia (a website dedicated to the camp site).
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The Look: As you might expect, makeup was, well, nonexistent at Taylor Camp. So it’s only natural (sorry, had to) that Selman followed suit for the show.
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