Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine issue 10

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Director's Note

ໃນໄລຍະລະດູຝນ ົ ນີ້ ແມ່ນເປັນຊ່ວງເວລາທີດ ່ ທ ີ ຈ ່ີ ະຢູກ ່ ບ ັ ພວກເຮົາ ແລະ ໃນເວລານີ້ ກໍ່ເປັນສິ່ງທີ່ ຫຼີກບໍ່ໄດ້ທ່ຈ ີ ະຮີບຮ້ອນເດີນທາງລະຫວ່າງບ້ານ ແລະ ບ່ອນເຮັດວຽກ, ຂະນະທີມ ່ ກ ີ ານເກັບເຄືອ ່ ງຂອງໃສ່ກະເປົາລະດັບ ນໍາ້ ຂອງກໍເ່ ພີມ ່ ຂືນ ້ ພ້ອມໆກັນ. he rainy season is now well and truly upon us and with it comes the inevitable dash between home and work, the poncho stuffed into our bags and the rising waters of the Mekong River. This time of year is extremely important for everyone in Laos, as the summer months represent a time of opportunity, fertility and rebirth. Nowhere is this more important than in the rural communities, from Champasak to Phongsaly and Bokeo to Huaphan. Indeed, this issue of Sabaidee Magazine takes a special look at all three of these ideas and explores the deeper meaning behind the traditions and practices which make Laos the country it is today. Opportunity: Our Cover Feature focuses on the Lao Coffee Trail and traces the path of this prized bean from plantation to cup, exploring the chance rural communities have to improve their livelihoods. We also visit some of Vientiane’s best coffee-shops. Fertility: In our Travel Feature, we head to one of the annual Rocket Festivals or Bun Bang Fai, which take place to appease the rain god and usher in a time of fruitful harvest on the verdant landscape. Rebirth: On Display profiles the important work of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC) in Luang Prabang, which is helping to connect age-old, traditional arts to the present, ensuring rural villagers lead a prosperous life at home. We hope you enjoy Issue 10 of Sabaidee Magazine and pick us up again in the future on your travels around the Land of a Million Elephants. Sok di and take care! Phanhlakhone Syboonheung The Director

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ໄລຍະນີ້ຂອງປີ ແມ່ນເປັນຊ່ວງເວລາທີ່ສຳຄັນ ສຳລັບປະຊາ ຊົນລາວ ບັ ນ ດາເຜົ່ າ , ເນື່ ອ ງຈາກວ່ າ ລະດູ ຮ້ ອ ນມາພ້ ອ ມກັ ບ ໂອກາດ, ຄວາມອຸດົມສົມບູນ ແລະ ການຟື້ນຄືນໃໝ່. ໃນທີ່ນ້ີ ບໍ່ມີບ່ອນໃດທີ່ຈະ ສຳຄັນໄປກ່ວາຊຸມຊົນໃນຊົນນະບົດ ຈາກ ແຂວງ ຈຳປາສັກ ຫາ ຜົງ້ ສາລີ ແລະ ແຂວງ ບໍແ ່ ກ້ວ ເຖິງ ແຂວງ ຫົວພັນ. ແທ້ຈງິ ແລ້ວ, ວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ ສະບັບນີ້ ໄດ້ຕດ ິ ຕາມຢ່າງໃກ້ຊດ ິ ກ່ຽວກັບ ແນວຄວາມຄິດແຫ່ງການສະແຫວງຫາໂອກາດ, ຄວາມອຸດມ ົ ສົມບູນ ແລະ ການຟືນ ້ ຟູຄນ ື ໃໝ່ຕາມວົງຈອນຂອງລະດູການ ແລະ ລົງເລິກເຖິງເບືອ ້ ງຫຼງັ ມູນເຊືອ ້ ແຫ່ງປະເພນີ ແລະ ການປະຕິບດ ັ ທີເ່ ຮັດໃຫ້ປະເທດລາວກ້າວມາ ເຖິງຄວາມຮຸງ່ ເຮືອ ່ ງໃນປະຈຸບນ ັ . ໂອກາດ. ບົ ດ ຄວາມສຳລັ ບ ໜ້ າ ປົ ກ ຂອງພວກເຮົ າ ແມ່ ນ ມຸ່ ງ ເນັ້ ນ ໃສ່ ເສັ້ ນ ທາງກາເຟລາວ ແລະ ທວນຄື ນ ເບິ່ ງ ເສັ້ ນ ທາງຂອງເມັ ດ ກາເຟທີ່ເປັນຄວາມພາກພູມໃຈນີ້,ເຊິ່ງເລີ່ມຈາກການປູກ ຈົນເຖິງ ເປັນ ຈອກກາເຟ, ໄດ້ສືບຄົ້ນເຖິງໂອກາດຂອງຊຸມຊົນທ້ອງຖິ່ນຈາກການປູກ ກາເຟ ເພື່ອປັບປຸງຊີວິດການ ເປັນຢູ່ຂອງພວກເຂົາເຈົ້າ. ນອກນັ້ນພວກ ເຮົາຍັງໄປຢ້ຽມຢາມຮ້ານກາເຟທີດ ່ ທ ີ ສ ່ີ ດ ຸ ຈຳວນໜຶງ່ ໃນວຽງຈັນ. ຄວາມອຸ ດົ ມ ສົ ມ ບູ ນ : ໃນບົ ດ ຄວາມທ່ ອ ງທ່ ຽ ວຂອງພວກເຮົ າ , ພວກ ເຮົ າ ມຸ່ ງ ໜ້ າ ໄປສູ່ ບຸ ນ ປະເພນີ ບ້ັ ງ ໄຟ ປະຈຳປີ ຫຼື Bun Bang Fai ທີ່ບ້ານແຫ່ງໜຶ່ງ, ເຊິ່ງຈັດຂຶ້ນເພື່ອບູຊາ ເທວະດາຟ້າແຖນ ແລະ ຜູ້ປົກ ປົກຮັກສາ ໃນໄລຍະລະດູເກັບກ່ຽວເພືອ ່ ໃຫ້ໄດ້ຮບ ັ ຜົນຜະລິດດີ ໃນພືນ ້ ທີ່ ອັນແສນອຸດມ ົ ສົມບູນແຫ່ງນີ.້ ການຟືນ ້ ຄືນໃໝ່: ການຈັດວາງສະແດງເຖິງ ຜົນງານວຽກງານທີສ ່ ຳຄັນຂອງ ສູ ນ ສິ ລ ະ ປະຊົ ນ ເຜົ່ າ ວິ ທ ະຍາ(TAEC) ຂອງແຂວງ ຫຼ ວ ງພະບາງ, ເຊິ່ ງ ຊ່ ວ ຍໃນການເຊື່ ອ ມໂຍງ ສິ ລ ະປະວັ ດ ທະນາທຳອັ ນ ເກົ່ າ ແກ່ ສູ່ ສ ະໄໝປະຈຸ ບັ ນ , ເພື່ ອ ເຮັ ດ ໃຫ້ ປ ະຊາຊົ ນ ທ້ ອ ງຖິ່ ນ ກ້ າ ວໄປເຖິ ງ ຊີວດ ິ ການເປັນ ຢູທ ່ ຈ ່ີ ະເລີນຮັງ່ ມີຢທ ູ່ ທ ່ີ ອ ້ ງຖິນ ່ ຂອງຕົນ. ພວກເຮົາຫວັງວ່າທ່ານ ຈະມີຄວາມເພີດເພີນໃນການອ່ານ ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດີ ສະບັບທີ່ 10 ຂອງພວກເຮົາ ແລະ ຈັບອ່ານອີກໃນຕໍໜ ່ າ້ ໃນ ເວລາທີທ ່ າ່ ນເດີນທາງທ່ອງທ່ຽວໃນດິນແດນປະເທດ ລ້ານຊ້າງແຫ່ງນີ.້ ຂໍໃຫ້ທກ ຸ ທ່ານຈົງ່ ໂຊກດີ ພັນລະຄອນ ສີບນ ຸ ເຮືອງ



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T H I S I S SU E

JULY-AUGUST 2013 News & Promotion 10 14 72

Laos: World’s Best Tourist Destination for 2013 Bulletin Board Sabaidee Club

Travel 22 36 40 50 54

Sabaidee Cover Travel Feature On Display Lao Rooms Trip Diary

48 Lifestyle 44 46 48

Lao Cuisine Sabaidee Table Sabaidee Relax

Directory & Map 58 59 61 64 66 69 70

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Map of Lao Lao’s General Information Vientiane Directory Vang Vieng Directory Luang Prabang Directory Savannakhet Directory Pakse & Champasak Directory



SA BA ID EE

Lorie Ann Cascaro

CON TRI BU TORS

A journalist from the Philippines who writes for MindaNews, Lorie is a fellow of the FK Norway (Fredskorpset) exchange programme in partnership with the Vietnam Forum of Environmental Journalists. She’s currently in Laos and hosted by the Vientiane Times. She thinks that writing is the only thing she can do right. She likes poetry and music, plays guitar and has composed a few songs. She is interested in talking with and watching people from different walks of life. She enjoys travelling overland and learning about different lifestyles. When she’s not in the newsroom, she’s probably swimming or surfing in the beach, or running or biking out of town.

Michelle Luehman Michelle has spent the last 20 years living and working around the world, and most of that time has been spent around Asia. An avid observer of people and places, she has written extensively about life in Asia, both as a visitor and a resident. She has worked for lifestyle and travel magazines around the globe capturing the essence and flavour of life in each different locality.

WHO'S

Ian Lacey Raised in Wexford, Ireland, Ian now lives in tranquil Vientiane. After falling into writing by accident, he likes to concentrate on pieces that reflect his two great interests in life – travel and conservation. And in Laos, there’s no better place to explore both separately or together. Ian recently completed a 15 month, 27,000km unsupported bicycle journey from Alaska to Argentina for charity, and since then has formed some alternative thoughts on the nature of travel. You can see blogs and photos on his website www.350South.org.

ຄະນະທີ່ປຶກສາ ພ�ດທະລະພ�ງ ຄ�ງວິຈິດ l ວິສິດ ເ�ົາວະລິດຕານ�ນ l ມານະໄ� ອິນແ�ວ l ສ�ມໃ� ພິມຜາສຸກ CONSULTANTS Pattarapong Kongvijit l Wisith Chawalitanon l Manachai Inkaew l Somjai Pimpasouk | ຜູ້ອຳນວຍການ ພ�ນລະຄອນ ສີບຸນເ�ືອງ DIRECTOR Phanhlakhone Syboonheung | ບັນນາທິການອຳນວຍການ ເ�ດ ພິດທະຢາກອນສິນ EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Gaid Kornsilapa | ບັນນາທິການບໍລິຫານ ຄ�ສວນ ຈ�ນທະລາດ EDITOR IN CHIEF Khamsouan Chanthalat | ບັນນາທິການ ພາສາອັງກິດ ອຽນ ເລຊ ENGLISH EDITOR Ian Lacey | ບັນນາທິການອອນລາຍ ຂະນິດຖາ ອ�ດຕະເ�ດ ONLINE EDITOR Kanittha Attamate | ຜູ້ອຳນວຍການຝ່າຍຂາຍ ຊາຢາດາ ອະລິຍະພ�ນຈະເ�ີນ SALES & MARKETING DIRECTOR Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen | SENIOR SALES & MARKETING Khonesavanh Kounmany ຝ່າຍຂາຍແລະການຕະຫຼາດ ຄອນສະຫວັນ ຄຸນມະນີ | ປະສານງານການຕະຫຼາດ ບຸນລອດ ສິດທິພ�ງ MARKETING CO-ORDINATOR Bounlod Sittiphong | ທີມງານຂ່າວ ເ�ບພະວ�ງສອນ ບ�ວພາ | REPORTER Thepphavongsone Bouapha | ຈັດໜ້າ ແລະ ອອກແບບ ນ�ດນະລີ ມາທອງ l ທະນະວ�ດ ຄ�ງແ�ນຄ� l ທ�ນຍະລ�ດ ສະທອນລ�ກ l ອະພີດຊະຍາ ພຶກສະອາພອນ LAYOUT DESIGN Nutnaree Mathong l Thanawatt Khongseankhum l Thunyarat Satornlug l Aphitchaya Phrueksa-aphon | ຝ່າຍທຸລະການ ຂ�ນທອງ ທ�ມະວ�ງ ADMINISTRATIVE SUPPORT Khanthong Thammavong | ຫ້ອງການວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ 256 ບານ ໜອງບອນ ເ�ືອງໄ�ເ�ດຖາ ນະຄອນວງວຽງຈ�ນ ສປປ ລາວ | SABAIDEE MAGAZINE SALES OFFICE THM Lao Co., Ltd. 265 Baan Nongbone, Xayxetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R | ໂທ / ແຟັກ: +856 21 454782 TEL / FAX: +856 21 454782 | MOBILE: +856 20 5512 2440, +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 (Thai) | ອີເມລ ບັນນາທິການ EDITOR EMAIL: editor@sabaidee-magazine.com | ອີເມລ ຝ່າຍຂາຍ SALES EMAIL: chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com | www.sabaidee-magazine. com | ເຈົ້າຂອງ ແລະ ຜູ້ຈັດພິມ ທີ ເ�ັສ ເ�ັມ ລາວ OWNER & PUBLISHER THM Lao

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SPECIAL REPORT

Laos

World’s Best Tourist Destination

for 2013

It’s known as the ‘Land of a Million Elephants’ to the world, but now Laos has received a proud new title that gives true recognition to the incredible cultural and natural diversity that rests within its borders. In May, the European Council on Tourism and Trade (ECTT) travelled to Vientiane to honour Laos as the ‘World’s Best Tourist Destination’ for 2013, and with it, extend an open hand to a multitude of tourism possibilities.

What does this award mean for Laos? It is a grand award to bestow upon a gracious nation. Laos, already on the international radar as Asia’s up and coming tourist destination, received fitting acknowledgement in May for its work in offering tourists an exceptional travel experience. At a ceremony in Don Chan Palace Hotel on the banks of the meandering Mekong, Laos was honoured with the award for World’s Best Tourist Destination for 2013 by the European Council on Tourism and Trade (ECTT), an organisation based in Bucharest, Romania. The award marks a significant point in Laos’ push to market itself as the ‘off the beaten track’ and untrammeled tourist destination of Southeast Asia. In part, that hasn’t been a terribly difficult thing to do up until now. The country is just finding its feet in terms of social and economic advancement and remains largely unscathed from any unsustainable or rife tourism development. With that in mind, it’s no surprise that the country offers a boundless authenticity in every corner. At the award ceremony, the Chairman of the ECTT, Dr Anton Caragea called Laos “a country that offers tourists a complete experience, a country that educates spirit, elevates soul and gives everybody a lesson in history and culture.” These are strong, direct and candid words, but words that sum up the country in absolute truth. Laos was honoured as the ‘World’s Best Tourist Destination’ for a number of reasons, foremost amongst them the desire of Lao people to conserve their cultural and natural heritage, not just for the value of its own nation’s communities, but for the rest of the world. Vat Xieng Thong, the Plain of Jars, Luang Prabang’s historic centre, Vieng Xai caves – all remarkable cultural sites that stitch together a vivid historical patchwork of the country’s history. For the naturally inclined visitor, it’s possible to trek the untamed forests of Luang Namtha, scout for elephants in Ban Na Nature Preserve, bathe in the cascading Kuang Si waterfall or float the wide and indolent Mekong River. 10

Chaleune Warinthrasak

Deputy Minister of Information, Tourism and Culture “We want to keep this award to promote our tourism capabilities and attract even more visitors. We also need to use it to highlight areas of the country that are not so well known, such as Champasak, Saravan and Attapeu provinces in the south. Our goal is to make tourists happy and provide an even better service to them year on year as it only serves to enhance our reputation at home and abroad. When the Asean Economic Community launches in 2015, I think tourist numbers will rise dramatically in Laos and this will only bring benefits to us”



The ECTT referred to eco-tourism projects as central to Laos’ winning of the award. In the foothills of the mountains, where morning mists hang shrouded over remote ethnic villages, the infrastructure is now present to offer visitors a local life experience in an inimitable setting. An example of such a palette is the Nam Ha National Protected Area, which rises from the lowland plains of Luang Namtha to the jagged mountain tops of the province, and is home to tigers, leopards, Asian elephants and an immense host of birds and aquatic life. Interacting and supporting the villages cushioning the border of the conservation area doesn’t just allow witness to Laos at its most genuine, but also serves to enhance the quality of life and livelihoods of its communities.

What does this award mean for Laos?

Indeed, the number of tourist arrivals is rising and is expected to maintain a positive trend for the foreseeable future. In 2010, 2.5 million people came to visit Laos, while last year the figure stood at 3.3 million people, the majority from Asia. This is obviously encouraging but also throws down an important test. For with a great honour comes an even greater challenge to maintain it. Ensuring that cultural heritage and its diversity is protected, as well as conserving the rich natural resources and bio-diverse ecosystems within the country will be paramount if Laos wishes to remain a visitor friendly and sustainable tourist destination.

Saleum Tayarath

Vice President of Lao Airlines “We are proud and delighted to have received this honourable prize which demonstrates the great achievements of tourism in Laos. With increasing visitor numbers we are ready to welcome more travellers to discover the beauty of our country and are expecting four new Airbus A320 to serve all seven domestic routes. The award will surely boost Laos and make it better known and we want to be a part of that journey. Lao Airlines is planning new destinations too, such as Yangon in Myanmar, Nanning in China, Phuket and Kuala Lumpur so this will aid friendlier ASEAN relations”

ລາວ

ປະເທດທີ່ໜ້າ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວທີ່ສຸດຂອງໂລກ ປີ 2013 ປະເທດລາວ ເປັ ນ ທີ ່ ຜູ ້ ຈ ັ ກ ໃນນາມ ‘ດິ ນ ແດນ ແຫ່ ງ ຊ້ າ ງລ້ າ ນໂຕ’ ຕໍ ່ ສ າກົ ນ , ແຕ່ ປ ະຈຸ ບັ ນ ລາວໄດ້ ຮັ ບ ຄວາມພູ ມ ໃຈໃໝ່ ເຊິ່ ງ ໃຫ້ ຄ ວາມໝາຍທີ ່ ແ ທ້ ຈ ິ ງ ຂອງຄວາມຫຼ າ ກຫຼ າ ຍຂອງທຳມະຊາດ ແລະ ວັ ດ ທະນະທຳ ທີ ່ ໜ ້ າ ເຫຼ ື ອ ເຊື ່ ອ ທີ່ ສ ະຫຼ ັ ບ ຊັ ບ ຊ້ ອ ນ ແລະ ຢັ ງ ຢາຍຕາມຊາຍແດນ. ໃນເດື ອ ນ ພຶ ດ ສະພາ ທີ ່ຜ່ານມານີ້, ສະພາການຄ້າ ແລະ ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ຍູໂລບ (ECTT) ໄດ້ເດີນທາງມາທີ ່ ນະຄອນ ຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ເ ພື່ ອ ເ ປັ ນ ກ ຽ ດ ແ ລ ະ ມ ອ ບ ລ າ ງ ວັ ນ ໃ ຫ້ ແ ກ່ ລ າ ວ ໃ ນ ຖ າ ນ ະ ທີ່ ເ ປັ ນ ‘ ປ ະ ເ ທ ດ ທີ ່ ໜ້ າ ທ່ ອ ງ ທ່ ຽ ວ ທີ ່ ສຸ ດ ຂ ອ ງ ໂ ລ ກ ປີ 2 0 1 3 ’ ແ ລ ະ ດ້ ວ ຍ ກ ຽ ດ ຕິ ຍົ ດ ນີ້ , ເ ປັ ນ ກ າ ນ ເ ປີ ດ ແ ຂ ນ ຕ້ ອ ນ ຮັ ບ ໂ ອ ກ າ ດ ແ ຫ່ ງ ການທ່ ອງທ່ຽວທີ່ມີຄວາມອຸດົ ມ ສົ ມ ບູ ນ ແລະ ຫຼ າ ກຫຼ າ ຍ. ລາງວັ ນ ດັ ່ ງ ກ່ າ ວ ເປັ ນ ຈຸ ດ ທີ ່ ສ ຳຄັ ນ ໃນດ້ າ ນການ​ຕ ະຫຼ າ ດຂອງ​ລ າວ​ ເຊິ ່ ງ ​ເ ປັ ນ ​ພູ ມ ປະເທດທີ ່ ຄົ ງ ຄວາມ​ ເ ປັ ນ ທ ຳ ມ ະ ຊ າ ດ ​ແ ລ ະ ຍັ ງ ​ບໍ ່ ເ ປັ ນ ທີ ່ ຮູ ້ ຈັ ກ ​ຫຼ າ ຍ ເ ຊິ ່ ງ ກ າ ຍ ​ເ ປັ ນ ຈຸ ດ ໝ າ ຍ ຂ ອ ງ ນັ ກ ທ່ ອ ງ ທ່ ຽ ວ ໃ ນ ອາຊີ ຕ າເວັ ນ ອອກສ່ ຽ ງໄຕ້ . ປະເທດລາວ ໄດ້ ຮ ັ ບ ກຽດເປັ ນ ‘ປະເທດທີ ່ ໜ ້ າ ທ່ ອ ງທ່ ຽ ວທີ ່ ສຸ ດ ຂອງໂລກ’ ດ້ ວ ຍຫຼ າ ຍເຫດຜົ ນ , ເຊິ ່ ງ ຈຸ ດ ທີ ່ ສ ຳຄັ ນ ທີ ່ ສຸ ດ ກໍ ່ ແ ມ່ ນ ຄວາມປາດຖະໜາຂອງປະຊາຊົ ນ ລາວເອງທີ ່ ມີ ເ ຈ ດ ຈ ຳ ນົ ງ ທີ່ ຈ ະ ອ ະ ນຸ ຮັ ກ ແ ຫຼ ່ ງ ທ ຳ ມ ະ ຊ າ ດ ແ ລ ະ ວັ ດ ທ ະ ນ ະ ທ ຳ ອັ ນ ດີ ງ າ ມ ເ ອົ າ ໄ ວ້ , ເຊິ ່ ງ ບໍ່ ພ ຽງແຕ່ ມີ ຄຸ ນ ຄ່ າ ໃນຊຸ ມ ຊົ ນ ພາຍໃນປະເທດຂອງຕົ ນ ເທົ ່ າ ນັ ້ ນ , ແຕ່ ຍັ ງ ມີ ຄຸ ນ ຄ່ າ ສຳລັ ບ ສາກົ ນ . ການທົ ດສອບ, ປະຈຸບັນ ກໍ່ແມ່ ນ ການຮັ ກ ສາ ກຽດຕິ ຍົ ດນີ ້ ໄວ້ ໃ ນປີ ຕໍ ່ ໄ ປ ແລະ ສຳລັ ບອານຸ ຊ ົ ນຄົ ນລຸ ້ ນຫຼ ັ ງ .

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Ng Sir Liang

Assistant Director of Sales and Marketing at Don Chan Palace Hotel “For me, I think it shifts the world’s attention not only to Laos but also the Indochina region. On top of that, it is also good as it helps people understand the importance of tourism for the development of a country. I think more government emphasis will be placed on tourism and hospitality now and training programmes may begin which can meet the growing demand in the sector. The sincerity of Lao people is something I find unique and I believe it will boost their service quality if more focus is placed on training”



PR Bulletin

ໂປຣແ�ຣມ BCEL One ລາວໂທລະຄົມເພີ່ມການບໍລກ ິ ານທີ່ສະດວກສະບາຍ ແລະ ທັນສະໄ�ໃນການຊໍາລະ ຄ່າໂທລະສັບທັງເ�ີລາຍເດືອນ(Post-Paid) ື ເ�ີຕື່ມເ�ິນ(Pbe-Paid)ພຽງແຕ່ລູກ ຄ້າຂອງລາວໂທລະຄົມໃຊ້ປາຍນວມືສໍາຜັດໂທລະສັບມືຖື Smart Phone ແລະ Computer ຂອງທ່ານເພື່ອເຂົ້າສູໂປຣ ່ ແ�ຣມ BCEL One ທ່ານກສາມາດຈ່າຍຄ່າ ໃ�ບິນຕ່າງໆເຊນ: ໄ�ຟ້າ, ນ�ປະປາ ແລະ ຄ່າໂທລະສັບ ຢ່າງປອດໄພສະດວກ ສະບາຍງ່າຍໆ ແລະ ບເສຍເ�ລາ. ເມື່ອວັນທີ 13 ມິຖຸນາ 2013 ຜ່ານມາ ທີ່ໂ�ງແ�ມດອນຈັນພາເລດ ໄດ້ຈັດພິທີເຊັນ ສັນຍານໍາໃຊ້ໂປຣແ�ມ BCEL One ລະຫວາ ່ ງ ທ່ານ ວັນຄໍາ ວໍລະວົງ ຜູອໍາ ້ ນວຍການ ໃຫຍ່ທະນາຄານການຄ້າຕ່າງປະເທດລາວມະຫາຊົນ (BCEL) ກັບ ທ່ານ ທອງໃສ ຊານໄຊຍະ ຜູ້ອໍານວຍການໃຫຍ່ ລັດວິສາຫະກິດປະສົມລາວໂທລະຄົມ (LTC) ແລະ ທ່ານ ຄໍາເ�ີຍ ວົງສາຄໍາຜຸຍ ຜູ້ອໍານວຍການໃຫຍ່ ລັດວິສາຫະກິດນ�ປະປານະຄອນ ວງວຽງຈັນ ໃຫ້ກຽດເປັນສັກ ຂີພະຍານໂດຍທ່ານ ທັນສະໄ� ກົມມະສິດ ລັດຖະມົນ ຕີຊ່ວຍວ່າການກະຊວງໄປສະນີໂທລະຄົມມະນາຄົມ ແລະ ການສື່ສານ.

LAO AIRLINES

OPENS SPECIAL DEAL TO SINGAPORE AND SEOUL Vientiane: Lao Airlines has launched incredible flight offers to and from Singapore and Seoul, Korea that open the door for some mid-year holiday options to Lao and international travellers.

Experience the wonderful feeling of peace and serenity at Dalah Spa

Coined ‘The Great Singapore Sale’, Lao Airlines is offering one-way tickets to the city-state from USD 119 or the better value roundtrip from USD 225. Tickets must be purchased soon however with July 31th the final date for booking but those snatching the deal have until September 30th to make the flight.

Relax and pamper yourself with our luxurious spa treatments:

E v e r f a n c i e d c h e c ki n g o u t t h e bustling metropolis of Seoul, Korea? Well, now’s your chance. Book before December 31st this year and get a one-way ticket from USD 355 or a return from USD 545. Prices vary depending on low/high season.

Relaxing Massage Therapeutic Massage Aroma Massage Milky Body Massage Sport Massage Hot Stone Massage Four Hands Massage Lao Traditional Massage

Hot Herbal Massage Indian Head Massage Anti-Stress Back, Neck & Shoulder Body Scrub / Body Mask Ear & Belly Button Candling Facial Treatment Waxing Treatment Dalah Spa Course or Package and many more...

140 Ban Phonsavanh Tai, Hom 3 Khouvieng Road, Sisattanak District, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR Tel.+856-21-285 125 Fax.+856-21-285 126. E-mail:dalahspa@gmail.com www.facebook.com/dalah.spa

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Residence Sisouk Pakse

THE HOTEL SISOUK RESIDENCE WELCOMES YOU ALL YEAR LONG IN A WARM, CHARMING AND TRADITIONAL ATMOSPHERE

RESIDENCE SISOUK contact@residence-sisouk.com Tel +856 (0)31 214716 Fax +856 (0)31 214716 www.residence-sisouk.com


BANGKOK AIRWAYS VOTED 3RD IN WORLD’S BEST REGIONAL AIRLINE

BANGKOK AIRWAYS ORGANISES TRIP FOR FLYER BONUS MEMBERS

Recently, SkyTrax revealed the winners of their prestigious awards programme called ‘World Airline Awards 2013’ which had more than 18 million airline passengers from around the world voting for their favourite travel experiences. Bangkok Airways was voted 3rd place in the category of World’s Best Regional Airline and 2nd place in the category of the Best Regional Airline in Asia.

Bangkok Airways led by Mr. Prote Setsuwan, Vice President of Marketing (second right) and Ms. Ariya PrasarttongOsoth, Vice President of Sales (second left) organised an exclusive trip to Vientiane, Laos for its Frequent Flyer members. The group was graciously welcomed by Laos’ high authorities at a dinner reception at the Settha Palace hotel. The ceremony saw Mr. Chaleune Warintharasak, Vice Minister of Information, Culture, and Tourism of Laos (fourth left), and His Excellency Mr. Kittisak Komjit, Thai Ambassador to Laos (fifth left) as the guests of honour. Also in attendance was a well-known historian, Mr. Paothong Thongchua and Miss Thailand Universe 2007, Ms. Farung Yuthithum (first right).

As Mr. Puttipong PrasarttongOsoth, President of Bangkok Airways said, “I and all the staff of Bangkok Airways would like to express our sincere thanks to all passengers who cast their votes for us. It is such an honour to be recognized and voted the third place in the c a t e g o r y o f Wo r l d ’s B e s t Regional Airline and second place in the category of Best Regional Airline in Asia. This shows that the hard work and dedication from both front-line and back of the house staff has paid off.”

ພິທລ� ີ ງນາມເ�ັນບ�ດບ�ນທຶກຄວາມເ�າໃ�ວາດ້ວຍການຮວມມືລະ�າງ ບໍລິສ�ດ ລ�ດວິສາຫະກິດ ລາວ ໂ�ລະຄ�ມມະນາຄ�ມ ແ�ະ ທະນາຄານສ�ງເ�ີມກະສິກ� ໃນຕອນບ່າຍຂອງວັນທີ: 04 ກໍລະກົດ 2013 ນີ້ ຢູ່ທີ່ຫ້ອງ ປະຊຸມສໍານັກງານໃຫ່ຍ ທະນາຄານສ�ງເສີມກະສິກໍາ ນະຄອນວງວຽຈັນ, ໄດ້ມີພທ ິ ລົ ີ ງນາມເຊັນບົດບັນທຶກຄວາມ ເຂົ້າໃຈວ່າດ້ວຍການຮ່ວມມື ລະຫວາ່ ງ ບໍລສ ິ ດ ັ ລັດວິສາຫະກິດ ລາວ ໂທລະ ຄົ ມ ມະນາຄົ ມ ແລະ ທະນາຄານ ສົ່ ງ ເສີ ມ ກະສິກໍາຂນ. ຮ່ວມລົງນາມເຊັນບົດບັນທຶກຄວາມເຂົ້າໃຈໃນຄັ້ງນີ້ມີ ທ່ານ ທອງໃສ ຊານໄຊຍະ ຜູ້ອໍານວຍການໃຫ່ຍ ບໍລິສັດ ລັດວິສາ ຫະກິດ ລາວ ໂທລະຄົມມະນາຄົມ, ແລະ ທ່ານ ບົວເ�ິນ ພົງ ສະຫວັດ ຜູອໍາ ້ ນວຍການໃຫ່ຍ ທະນາຄານສ�ງເສີມກະສິກໍາ. ໂດຍການເຂົ້າຮ່ວມເປັນສັກຂີພະຍານຂອງເຈົ້າໜ້າ ທີ່ຜູ້ຕາງ ໜ້າຈາກ ທະນາຄານແຫ່ງ ສ.ປ.ປ ລາວ ແລະ ເຈົ້າໜ້າທີ່ລະ ດັບສູງຂອງສອງຝ່າຍເຂົ້າຮ່ວມ ພ້ອມນີ້ຍັງມີສື່ມວນຊົນາຍ ພາກສ່ວນກໄດ້ເຂົ້າຮ່ວມເຊນດຽວກັນ. ໃນພິທລົ ີ ງນາມເຊັນບົດບັນທຶກຄວາມເຂົ້າໃຈ 02 ຝ່າຍໃນຄັ້ງ ນີ້ຖືເປັນບາດກ້າວອັນໃ�່ທາງດ້ານການຮ່ວມມືຂອງ 02 ອົງ ກອນ ໂດຍສະເພາະໃນຍຸກທີ່ ເຕັກນິກ, ເຕັກໂນໂລຢີ ກໍາລັງ ຂະ�າຍຕົວສູງໃນບັນຈຸບັນ ມັນຍິ່ງມີຄວາມຈໍາເປັນ ແລະ ເປັນໂອກາດອັນດີໃຫ້ກັບ 2 ຝ່າຍ ໃນການພັດທະນາລະບົບ ການໃຫ້ບໍລິການລູກຄ້າຮ່ວມກັນ ເພື່ອ ເອອອໍານວຍຄວາມ ສະດວກສະບາຍ ແລະ ຄວາມວ່ອງໄ�ທາງດ້ານການບໍລກ ິ ານ ໃຫ້ ກັ ບ ລູ ກ ຄ້ າ ຂອງ ຕົ ນ ເຊັ່ ນ : ລູ ກ ທີ່ ມີ ບັ ດ ATM ຂອງ ທະນາຄານສ�ງເສີມກະສິກໍາ ສາມາດຊໍາລະຄ່າໂທລະສັບມືຖື 16

ລາຍເດືອນ, ໂທລະສັບຕັ້ງໂຕະ ແລະ ອິນເຕີເນັດຂອງ ລາວ ໂທລະຄົມ ໄດ້ທຸກທີ່ ທຸກເ�ລາຕະອດ 24 ຊ�ວໂມງ. ນອກ ນັ້ນຍັງສາມາດຊບັດຕື່ມເ�ິນຂອງ ລາວ ໂທລະຄົມ ຜ່ານລະບົບ Teller Mobile Banking ື ຜ່ານ ຕູ້ ATM ຂອງທະນາຄານ ສ�ງເສີມກະສິກໍາໄດ້ອີກດ້ວຍ ເ�ັດໃຫ້ກະແສເ�ິນສົດມີການ ໝູນວຽນຜ່ານລະບົບທະນາຄານາຍຂນ.

ການຮ່ວມມືໃນຄັ້ງນີ້ຈະກ້າວໄປເ�ີງການໃຫ້ບໍລກ ິ ານອນໆອີກ ໃນອະນາຄົດ ແລະ ຂະ�າຍໃຫ້ລູກຄ້າຂອງທັງສອງຝ່າຍ ໄດ້ຊົມໃຊ້ໃນຂອບເຂດທ�ວປະເທດ ໂດຍການນໍາໃຊ້ພນຖານ ໂຄງລ່າງຂອງ ລາວ ໂທລະຄົມ ທີ່ມີຢູທຸ ່ ກແຂວງໃນຈໍານວນ 149 ຕົວເມືອງທ�ວປະເທດ.



PR Bulletin

VILLA MALY LIFTS VEIL ON HONEYMOON GETAWAY IN LUANG PRABANG Luang Prabang: A boutique hotel that was once the home of Lao royalty is wooing recently married couples from around the world with a honeymoon holiday retreat. Long boat cruises on the Mekong River, Lao barbeques by candlelight, and a traditional Baci ceremony – where couples literally tie the knot with the blessing of a village elder – are among the highlights of Villa Maly’s “Romancing Luang Prabang” package, launched in June. Anchored by a colonial French villa built in 1938 by Princess Vanthatmaly, Villa Maly is now a 33-room boutique hotel located a stone’s throw from the charming streets of the UNESCO World Heritage town. Newlyweds will stay two nights in a deluxe room surrounded by Villa Maly’s lush gardens, dine poolside on a Lao-style Sindad barbeque, explore the town’s scenic waterways on the Nava Mekong’s sunset dinner cruise, and unwind with a 60-minute massage at the Villa Maly Spa. The package is priced at USD 720 per room based on double occupancy, and including taxes and charges. It’s on offer until the end of December 2013. For inquiries please email info@villa-maly.com or visit www.villa-maly.com

ພິທີເປີດສູນບໍລິການ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ເມືອງຫລວງ ຢ່າງເປັນທາງການ ໃນວັນທີ 01 ມິຖຸນາ 2013 ທີ່ຜ່ານມານີ້ ໄດ້ຈັດໃຫ້ມີພິທີເປີດ ບໍລິສັດ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ເມືອງຫລວງ ຈໍ າ ກັ ດ (ສາຂາໃຫຍ່ ຫ ລວງພະບາງ) ເຊິ່ ງ ເປັ ນ ຕົ ວ ແທນຈໍ າ ຫນ່ າ ຍລົ ດ ໂຕໂຍຕ້ າ ຢ່າງເປັນທາງການ ສາຂາທີ 7 ໃນ ສປປ ລາວ ຕັ້ງຢູ່ບ້ານຜາໂຄມ, ເມືອງ ແລະ ແຂວງ ຫລວງພະບາງ. ປະຈຸບນ ັ ສູນບໍລກ ິ ານມາດຕະຖານ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ພ້ອມໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານທ່ານແລ້ວໃນ 4 ແຂວງໃຫຍ່ ຄື ທີ່ ນະຄອນຫລວງວຽງຈັ ນ , ແຂວງສະຫວັນ ນະເຂດ, ແຂວງຈໍາປາສັກ ແລະ ແຂວງຫລວງພະບາງ. ໂດຍການໃຫ້ ກ ຽດເຂົ້ າ ງານໃນຄັ້ ງ ນີ້ ແ ມ່ ນ ທ່ າ ນ ສົມສຸກ ພິມພະຈັນ ປະທານ ບໍລິສັດ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ເມືອງຫລວງ ຈຳກັດ, ທ່ານ ວິຊຽນ ເອມປະເສີດສຸກ ຮອງກຳມະການຜູຈ ້ ດ ັ ການໃຫຍ່ ບໍລສ ິ ດ ັ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ມໍ ເ ຕີ້ ປະເທດໄທ ຈຳກັ ດ , ທ່ າ ນ ປະກອນ ວົ ງ ວິ ທ ະຍາພິ ຣົ ມ ທີ່ ປື ກ ສາບໍ ລິ ຫ ານ ບໍ ລິ ສັ ດ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ມໍເຕີ້ ປະເທດໄທ ຈຳກັດ, ພ້ອມດ້ວຍ ບັນດາຫົວຫນ້າພະແນກການທີ່ກ່ຽວຂ້ອງ ແລະ ແຂກຖືກເຊີນເຂົ້າຮ່ວມ. ເຊິ່ງ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ຫມັ້ນໃຈວ່າ ສູນບໍລກ ິ ານ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ເມືອງຫລວງ ຈະສາມາດຕອບສະຫນອງ ຄວາມ ຮຽກຮ້ ອ ງຕ້ ອ ງການໃນການໃຫ້ ບໍ ລິ ກ ານລູ ກ ຄ້ າ ໂຕໂຍຕ້າ ໃນແຂວງຫລວງພະບາງ ເພາະເປັນ ສູນບໍລິການມາດຕະຖານ ທີ່ມີຄວາມພ້ອມທັງ 3S ຄື: ການຂາຍ (Sales), ການບໍລິການ (Service) ແລະ ອະໄຫລ່ (Spare Part) ເພື່ອໃຫ້ລູກຄ້າໄດ້ ຮັບຄວາມພຶງພໍໃຈທີ່ສຸດ.

18



SABAIDEE GUEST

MR BOULAPHA SANTIKHONGKHA

A VISIONARY BUSINESSMAN DRIVING THE LAO

INVESTMENT

BOOM Sabaidee Magazine spoke recently with one of the most prominent investors in Laos, Mr Boulapha Santikhongkha. Mr Boulapha has a wide variety of business interests, ranging from construction and real estate to agriculture and timber. Tourism and recreation also enter his investment arena. Local residents and visitors to the Lao capital would have no doubt noticed the advertising hoardings surrounding various construction sites, including the Non Chanh marsh World Trade Centre Site and along the Mekong riverfront from Don Chan Palace all the way to the newly completed ASEM villas and luxury Landmark Hotel. As president of the Krittaphong group, Mr Boulapha has business interests in all of these developments. His company is the driving force behind the unfolding transformation of the capital, which is becoming more cosmopolitan by the day. “When I first set foot in Laos, the first thing I noticed was the abundance of natural resources just waiting to be exploited. But I was also struck by the friendliness and genuine hospitality of the Lao people, and the willingness of the government to facilitate business investment,” he recalls. He cites mineral extraction, hydropower, agricultural processing, livestock farming and forestry as industries with a promising future in Laos. While these sectors already represent the core of the Lao economy, Mr Boulapha is certain that there is plenty of scope for expansion, which he says will happen rapidly as the transport network improves. 20


LAOS MIGHT BE RENOWNED AS PERHAPS THE SLEEPIEST PART OF SOUTHEAST ASIA, WITH MORE AND MORE TRAVELLERS SEEKING OUT ITS SIMPLE CHARMS, BUT IN THE BUSINESS WORLD THINGS ARE BOOMING AND THE COUNTRY IS NOT A BACKWATER ANYMORE.

Aside from primary industries, Mr Boulapha also thinks that the rich and diverse culture and traditions in Laos have the potential to attract an ever greater number of tourists hoping to catch a glimpse of nature and authenticity already lost in other parts of Southeast Asia. What Laos lacks in regards to tourism though, are the five star facilities to cater to affluent travellers who want an exotic experience but also to be able to relax, unwind and reflect in luxurious hotels and resorts at the end of the day. Don Chan Palace and the newly completed Landmark Hotel past the ASEM villas on the Mekong cater to this market in Vientiane, but there is plenty of room for more luxury resorts in places like Luang Prabang, Champasak and even the famous party town of Vang Vieng, which is looking to make over its image. An avid golfer himself, Mr Boulapha is also exploring the possibilities of luxury sports tourism, aiming to attract affluent golfers from places like China, Korea and Russia which have less hospitable climates, especially in the winter. He is the president of the Luang Prabang Golf Club, a first class course situated on the outskirts of the world heritage listed town which boasts a stunning mountain backdrop and luscious natural greenery. Last year it became the first golf course in Laos to host an ASEAN PGA event, which will certainly boost the image of the country as a golfing destination, with a growing number of local business people taking up the sport as well. Mr Boulapha has future ambitions to open more golf courses in Laos, including one in the capital Vientiane and another in Vang Vieng. The only real obstacle to up-market real estate development and luxury resorts is sourcing the technicians to fit them out and the skilled personnel to staff them. Mr Boulapha sees human resource development as one of the key challenges that Laos must overcome as a nation, and he invests a lot of time and money bringing in professionals to train his local staff. “A nation must be built by its own people,” he says. He also heads out for a round of golf with his friends, discussing their business ventures, golfing swings and whatever else takes their interest. In Mr Boulapha’s opinion, one thing is for certain and that is that Laos is like an open fairway when it comes to investment, and all people need is the drive to succeed.

ທ່ານ ບົວລະພາ ສັນຕິຄົງຄາ

ນັກທຸລະກິດທີ່ມີມູມມອງ ເຮັດໃຫ້ການລົງທຶນຂອງປະເທດລາວ ມີຄວາມຂະຫຍາຍຕົວ

ໃ�ມໆນ, ວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ ໄ�ສ�ນທະນາກ�ບ ໜງໃ�ບ�ນດານ�ກລ�ງທຶນທໂ�ນເ�ນ ທສຸດໃ� ປະເ�ດລາວ, ທານ ບ�ວລະພາ ສ�ນຕິຄ�ງຄາ. ໃນຖານະທີ່ ເ ປັ ນ ປະທານ ກຸ່ ມ ບໍ ລິ ສັ ດ ກຣິ ດ ຕິ ພົ ງ , ທ່ າ ນ ບົ ວ ລະພາ ມີ ຄ ວາມສົ ນ ໃຈ ໃ�ການພ�ດທະນາ າຍຂະແ�ງການທຸລະກິດ. ບໍລິສ�ດຂອງທານ ແ�ນເ�ັນກ�ລ�ງຂ�ບ ເຄື່ ອ ນທີ່ ຢູ່ ເ ບື້ ອ ງຫຼັ ງ ການປ່ ຽ ນແປງ ທີ່ ຍິ່ ງ ໃຫຍ່ ຂອງຕົ ວ ເມື ອ ງວຽງຈັ ນ . ໃນບັ ນ ດາ ໂ�ງການໃ�ດ  ງກ � າວ ແ�ນລວມມີ ໂ�ງການພ�ດທະນາ ໜອງຈ�ນ ເ�ັນສູນການຄາສາກ�ນ ແ�ະ ໂ�ງການພ�ດທະນາ ຕາມແ�ມແ�ນ ນ�ຂອງ. ທ່ າ ນ ບົ ວ ລະພາ ໄດ້ ກ່ າ ວເຖິ ງ ກິ ດ ຈະກຳດ້ າ ນບໍ່ ແ ຮ່ , ຜະລັ ງ ງານໄຟຟ້ າ ນໍ້ າ ຕົ ກ , ການປຸງແ�ງກະສິກ�, ການປູກຝ�ງລຽງສ�ດ ແ�ະ ຂະແ�ງປາໄ�ເ�ັນອຸດສະຫະກ� ເ�ັນອານາຄ�ດທາງທຸລະກິດທດີໃ�ປະ ເ�ດລາວ. ໂ�ງແ�ມດອນຈ�ນພາເ�ດ ແ�ະ ໂ�ງແ�ມ ແ�ນມາກ ທສ�ເ�ັດໃ�, ບານພ�ກຜູນ� ASEM ລຽບແ�ມຂອງ ສາມາດຮອງຮ�ບຕະາດທອງທຽວທາ ໃ�ວຽງຈ�ນ, ແ�ຍ�ງ ມີຊ່ອງຫວ່າງຫຼາຍ ສຳລັບການພັດທະນາ ລີສອດທີ່ຫຼູຫຼາເຕີ່ມອີກໃນບັນດາສະຖານ ທຕາງໆເ�ນ: ວງພະບາງ, ຈ�ປະສ�ກ ແ�ະ ວ�ງວຽງ. ທານ ບ�ວລະພາ ແ�ນ ນ�ກກອບ ທມີພອນສະ��ນ ໂ�ຍສວນຕ�ວ ແ�ະ ຍ�ງໄ�ຄນຫາ � ໂ�ກາດ ສ�ລ�ບການພ�ດທະນາການທອງທຽວດານກິລາທາ. ທານ ແ�ນ ປະທານ ສະໂ�ສອນກອບ ຂອງ ແ�ວງວງພະບາງ. ປີກາຍນ, ລາວໄ�ຮ�ບເ�ັນເ�າພາບຄ�ງທ� ອິດໃ�ການຈ�ດງານ ສະມາຄ�ມອາຊີບກອບອາຊຽນ ASEAN PGA. ທານ ບ�ວລະພາ ຍ�ງ ມີ ຄ ວາມພະຍາຍາມທີ່ ຈ ະເປີ ດ ສະໜາມກອບ ເພິ່ ມ ເຕີ່ ມ ອີ ກ ໃນລາວ, ລວມທັ ງ ໜຶ່ ງ ແ�ງໃ�ຕ�ວເ�ືອງວຽງຈ�ນ ແ�ະ ອີກໜງແ�ງ ໃ�ເ�ືອງວ�ງວຽງ. ທ່ານ ບົວລະພາ ເຊື່ອວ່າບໍ່ມີສິ່ງໃດສາມາດກີດຂວາງທ່ານໄດ້ໃນການພັດທະນາໃນ ປະເ�ດລາວ, ສງທຕອງການກມີພຽງມຸງໄ�ສູຄວາມສ�ເ�ັດ. 21


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SABAIDEE COVER


Story & Photos : Ian Lacey

ເສັ້ນທາງກາເ�ລາວ Whether it’s a full-bodied Italian cappuccino, a robust espresso, or an iced mocha you desire, coffee truly has become the world’s drink. Long departed are the days of high coffee expense as sourcing quality is possible for many now, and it’s ready to satisfy each and every taste. It’s also a cash crop that over 100 million people in developing nations depend on for their livelihoods and there’s a growing recognition of equitable trading. As for Laos, well, it is finally making a regional impact and the coffee beans grown on the Bolaven Plateau are amongst the finest you’ll discover. Follow us then, as we journey down the Lao coffee trail...

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Laos’ coffee heritage is invariably tied to its former French colonists. The first coffee trees were sown by the French around 1915, but the great diversity in the country’s topography and climate led to a sustained period of trial and error before the best growing conditions could be found. The north’s deeply crumpled mountains proved inhospitable for an industry to flourish, but the fertile, volcanic soils of the south provided an ideal haven for cultivation. It was the Bolaven Plateau, an elevated region of Champasak province, which gave the French their first healthy yields in the country. Wedged between the Annamite Mountain Range to the east and the snaking Mekong River to the west, the plateau rises to over 1000 metres and receives abundant rainfall and a cool climate, perfect for reliable harvests. By 1930, the French were growing over 5,000 tonnes of coffee per year in Laos, of which the flavoursome Arabica bean was king. However, before it ever really got moving, the industry was ground to a halt. Orange rust disease and severe frosts in the late 1940s all but wiped out the delicate Arabica tree, so the hardier Robusta was chosen to invigorate once again. It paid off incredibly well and business boomed on the plateau, with Robusta driving production to almost 7,000 tonnes per year. The Vietnam War and clandestine bombing campaigns in Laos during the 1960s and 70s decimated the livelihoods of the southern coffee growers. However, the return of peace heralded a new age of prosperity for the industry and those working within it. Sustainable and equitable cultivation now exists and the country isn’t just proud of its high quality beans, but also what it signifies in terms of regional and national development.

B Akash Photos : IFAD/GM

Photos : IFAD/GMB Akash

ປະຫວັດຄວາມເປັນມາ

ຂອງກາເຟລາວ

ມໍລະດົກຄວາມເປັນມາຂອງກາເຟລາວມີມາແຕ່ສະໄໝລ່າເມືອງຂຶ້ນ ຝຣັ່ງ, ກາເຟຕົ້ນທຳ�ອິດທີ່ປກ ູ ຢູ່ລາວແມ່ນປູກໂດຍຄົນຝຣັ່ງ ປະມານປີ 1915, ຢູ່ທີ່ພພ ູ ຽງບໍລເິ ວນເຊິ່ງເປັນເຂດພື້ນທີ່ສງູ ຂອງແຂວງຈຳ�ປາສັກ, ເຊິ່ງບັນດາຕົ້ນກາເຟຕົ້ນທຳ�ອິດເຫຼົ່ານັ້ນທີ່ຊາວຝຣັ່ງປູກ ສາມາດເຕີບໂຕ ແລະ ໃຫ້ຜົນຜະລິດເປັນຢ່າງດີໃນດິນແດນໃນ ປະເທດລາວ. ຕໍ່ມາໃນ ລະວ່າງປີ 1930, ຊາວຝຣັ່ງໄດ້ປກ ູ ກາເຟຫຼາຍກ່ວາ 5,000 ໂຕນຕໍ່ປ,ີ ເຊິ່ງສ່ວນຫຼາຍແມ່ນກາເຟຊະນິດອາຣາບິກາ Arabica. ການເກີດລະບາດ ຂອງພະຍາດພືດ, ອາກາດທີ່ໜາວເຢັນ ແລະ ສົງຄາມຫວຽດນາມ ໄດ້ສົ່ງ ຜົນກະທົບ ຕໍ່ການຜະລິດກາເຟ, ແຕ່ປະຈຸບັນອຸດສະຫະກຳ�ກາເຟໄດ້ກັບ ມາພົ້ນເດັ່ນອີກຄັ້ງ ໃນລາວ. 24


Photos : IFAD/GMB Akash

ery and are transplanted Coffee trees begin life in a nurs r. In Laos, natural shade into the field after one yea jungle canopy, which the from side is provided out a truly pure one. as means the process begins

rs for the tree s to rea ch It usu ally tak es five yea of the rainy season, they maturity and with the onset buds which progress fruit out turn begin to flower and se are picked when The r. into ‘cherries’ later in the yea ur. they develop a deep red colo ns inside and these must The cherry holds two bea r picking. They are then afte day ferment for one netting to dry until 11% ed washed and set out on rais . hed reac n bee moisture has

ply, the complete cherries Where water is in short sup e weeks in the sun. After, thre und aro are left to dry for sorted for export. This and these are hulled, graded used in Laos. hod met sing ces pro n is the mai 25


At present, coffee production is running at over 20,000 tonnes per year, of which 80% is Robusta. Gradually, the tide is moving towards Arabica production as their yield gains a far higher price for farmers. The coffee-growing community is not small-scale despite the limited geographical space which the Bolaven Plateau and other nationwide high altitude areas afford. Over 20,000 farming families are spread throughout 250 villages of Champasak, Saravan and Attapeu provinces, and they draw not only financial security from coffee farming but also enormous pride from their work. The name Paksong – the remote area in which the Bolaven Plateau soars – is synonymous around Laos with quality coffee. It’s also a regional tourist magnet and local income is not just made directly from sales, but also tourism to the heart of production. At places such as the Sinouk Coffee Resort, Plantation and Lodge, and through Koffies Tour (www.paksong.info), it’s possible for visitors to witness the very birth of the future coffee they will drink. Although coffee is Laos’ fifth-largest export product and its biggest export crop, generating US$150 million per year, it’s difficult not to stumble across this home-grown creation on the shelves of even the smallest supermarket. Lao people love their coffee and take it very differently to the familiar western style, straining the grounds through a thin cloth, adding condensed milk to sweeten and ice to cool.

ການຜະລິດກາເຟ

ໃນປະຈຸບັນ

ປະຈຸບັນ, ຜົນຜະລິດກາເຟ ແມ່ນຫຼາຍກ່ວາ 20,000 ໂຕນ ຕໍ່ປ,ີ ເຊິ່ງ 80% ແມ່ນ ກາເຟໂຣບັສຕາ Robusta, ເຊິ່ງປະຊາຊົນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ຫຼາຍກ່ວາ 20,000 ຄອບຄົວ ໄດ້ເຮັດສວນກາເຟ ໃນ 250 ໝູ່ບ້ານຂອງ ແຂວງ ຈຳ�ປາສັກ, ສາລະວັນ ແລະ ອັດຕາປື. ເມືອງ ປາກຊ່ອງ, ເຊິ່ງເປັນເຂດຫ່າງ ໄກຊອກຫຼີກໃນເຂດພູພຽງບໍລເິ ວນ, ແມ່ນມີຊື່ສຽງ ໃນການຜະລິດກາເຟທີ່ມຄ ີ ນ ຸ ນະພາບ. ເຂດດັ່ງກ່າວ ຍັງເປັນສະຖານ ທີ່ທີ່ດງຶ ດູດນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວໃນພາກພື້ນແລະລາຍໄດ້ຂອງທ້ອງຖິ່ນບໍ່ແມ່ນໄດ້ ມາຈາກ ການຂາຍກາເຟຢ່າງດຽວ, ແຕ່ໄດ້ມາຈາກການໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານ ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວເຊິ່ງເປັນຫົວໃຈຂອງ ການຜະລິດ. ກາເຟກາຍເປັນສິນ ຄ້າສົ່ງອອກອັນດັບທີ່ 5 ຂອງ ລາວ ແລະ ເປັນການສົ່ງອອກພືດອັນ ດັບໜຶ່ງ, ເຊິ່ງໄດ້ສ້າງລາຍຮັບເຖິງ US$150 ລ້ານ ຕໍ່ປ.ີ

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Laos has about 50,000 hectares of land under coffee cultivation and this supplies 0.25% of the world coffee market. Brazil is till top dog however, with around 7 million tonnes produced annually.

Photos : IFAD/GMB Akash

coffe e Many ethni c mino rities are invol ved in well paid are they ing ensur and Laos in production The first and supported in their daily work is essential. skills step is making sure the farmers have the right which , coffee value st highe the at hand to produce livelihood is one part of the process leading to rural nt. improveme agencies Over the past 20 years, various development ultura l Agric for Fund al ation such as the Intern the Lao Development (IFAD), in cooperation with unities government, have been working with comm increase to introduce new farming technologies and access to markets. nment is One group supported by IFAD and the gover includes which , Group cers Produ e Coffe the Organic ce. The 54 ethnic Alak families in Attapeu provin practices ltural agricu ce enhan to ed assist are s familie and use organic means of cultivation. used to The income secured from coffee farming is school buy necessities such as rice, clothes and es now famili the , amme progr the gh Throu ies. suppl per year, produce over 1,000kg of coffee berries compared to just 100kg ten years ago. 27


ນັກທຸລະກິດກາເຟລາຍໃຫຍໃນລາວ

The face of coffee in Laos is without doubt Sinouk Sisombat, whose Sinouk Cafés and Sinouk Coffee Plantation and Resort are known to coffee connoisseurs the length and breadth of the country Sinouk’s story began in 1994 when he returned to Laos from France, where he had been living and working for 30 years. Driven by a desire to manage a successful business in his homeland, he trained his eyes on the south and the potential of the precious coffee bean. “Right now, around the Bolaven plateau, it’s like the final frontier,” Sinouk explains as we chat in his snug café in downtown Vientiane. “You can imagine what it was like when I started. I needed to travel by foot from one place to another. But it is as beautiful as ever. It’s worth it just to go there.” The dedicated effort and determination to turn his coffee dream into a reality has paid off immeasurably. Sinouk, equipped with high quality processing machines and the strength of a 50 hectare estate, now creates smooth blends and his name has been propelled into the regional limelight. 28

The experience doesn’t end at his cafés, however. Sinouk now gives coffee lovers the opportunity to visit his Sinouk Coffee Resort and Botanic Gardens in Paksong, and live within his coffee vision. “We have beautiful, crafted gardens and water features. It’s a wonderful place to see in a special part of the world,” he says trying to hide a smile, visibly relaxed after a recent stay in his own personal paradise. It’s not just about Sinouk and a prosperous business either. “We have almost 100 people working for the company and this will get bigger, creating more jobs,” alluding to his plans to expand past the cafés in Vientiane and Pakse, the resort in Paksong and his Salon de Thé on the outskirts of the capital. “I don’t even know what the age of retirement means” he exclaims. “Let’s keep doing this and getting better!”


Sinouk Coffee was certified organic in 2009. This means that the plantation’s fertilisers are 100% natural and the environment benefits too as the coffee is shade grown, meaning the entire local ecosystem remains healthy.

ສີໜຸກ ສີສົມບັດ

ເຈົ້າຂອງ ກາເຟຍີ່ຫໍ້ ສີໜຸກ ໜຶ່ງໃນນັກທຸລະກິດທີ່ຕິດອັນດັບແຖວໜ້າຂອງລາວ ໂດຍບໍ່ຕ້ອງສົງໃສນັ້ນກໍ່ຄື ທ່ານ ສີໜຸ ກ ສີສົມບັດ, ເຈົ້າຂອງ ຮ້ານກາເຟສີໜກ ຸ ສວນກາເຟ ແລະ ລີສອດ ສີໜກ ຸ ເຊິ່ງເປັນທີ່ຮູ້ຈັກກັນດີໃນບັນດານັກດື່ມ ແລະ ຊ່ຽວຊານກາເຟໃນທົ່ວປະເທດ.ປະຫວັດຄວາມເປັນມາ ຂອງກາເຟ ສີໜກ ຸ ແມ່ນ ເລີ່ມຕົ້ນມາ ແຕ່ປີ 1994 ເມື່ອ ທ່ານ ສີໜກ ຸ ໄດ້ເດີນທາງມາຈາກປະເທດຝຣັ່ງກັບຄືນ ມາລາວ. ປະຈຸບັນ ທ່ານ ສີໜກ ຸ ມີສວນກາເຟ ຫຼາຍ ກ່ວາ 50 ຮຕ ຢູ່ທີ່ ເມືອງປາກຊ່ອງ ແລະ ສາມາດ ສ້າງວຽກເຮັດງານທຳ�ໃຫ້ແກ່ ປະຊາຊົນໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ຫຼາຍກ່ວາ 100 ຄົນ. ທ່ານ ສີນຸກ ຍັງນຳ�ໃຊ້ເຄື່ອງຈັກ ທີ່ມີຄຸນນະພາບສູງ ເຂົ້າໃນຂະບວນການຜະລິດເພື່ອ ຮັບປະກັນ ໄດ້ວ່າເມັດກາເຟ ທີ່ຜະລິດອອກມາເປັ ນ ກາເຟທີ່ມີ ຄຸນນະພາບ ແລະ ດີທີ່ສຸດ. ທ່ານກ່າວວ່າ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າບໍ່ຮູ້ດອກວ່າ ການບຳ�ນານ ໝາຍຄວາມວ່າ ແນວ ໃດສຳ�ລັບຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າພຽງຕ້ອງການ ເຮັດສິ່ງນີ້ ໃຫ້ດີຂຶ້ນ ແລະ ດີຂຶ້ນໄປເລື້ອຍໆ! 29


With a 250 hectare estate in Pakse District, Champasak Province, close ties with local farmers and tens of coffee products, Dao-Heuang Group means business in Laos Venture into any supermarket in Vientiane and you’ll see the familiar red wavy logo of Dao Coffee taking prime position in the hot drinks aisle. When it comes to coffee, Dao-Heung Group is the commercial business leader in Laos. From Gold Arabica to Platinum Instant to 3-in-1 Flavoured, Dao coffee comes in all shapes in sizes. Begun in 1991, Dao-Heuang Group started as an import-export company dealing in perfumes within the French-Lao market. “We saw the great potential of natural resources in Laos from the start and figured that a coffee plantation could open some real doors for us,” says Sisouphonh Sihalath, Managing Director of Dao-Heuang Group. Although Dao eyed up the home market at the very start, the notion of spreading its wings from a home-grown, small to medium sized business to an international player came quite naturally. “We could see that other parts of the world were ready. And so were we. Now, the biggest importers of Dao Coffee are Japan and Poland; we hope to step into even more countries in the future,” Sisouphonh relays with confidence. In December 2012, Dao-Heung opened their dedicated instant coffee factory in Paksong, which not only bolsters their production capacity but also invests into the local and national economy. It also allows them to branch out and diversify products a little more. You’re as likely to find their Original Express (Coffee in a can) and their Perfect Shape Slimming Coffee as much as the Gold blend favourites.

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Dao-Heung Group gives coffee trees to farmers in Paksong as part of their business model. They also pay the farmer 50% of the estimated harvest up front, meaning they have some capital to invest in the cultivation process.

ກາເຟ ດາວ Dao Coffee

Sisouphonh Sihalath : Managing Director

ເລີ່ມຕົ້ນໃນປີ 1991 ກຸ່ມບໍລສ ິ ັດ ດາວເຮືອງ ເຊິ່ງເປັນບໍລສ ິ ັດ ນຳ�ເຂົ້າສົ່ງອອກ ສິນຄ້າກ່ຽວກັບ ນໍ້າຫອມ ພາຍໃນຕະຫຼາດລາວ ແລະ ຝຣັ່ງ, ໄດ້ເບິ່ງເຫັນ ທ່າແຮງບົ່ມຊ້ອນຂອງຊັບພະຍາກອນ ທຳ�ມະຊາດ ທີ່ມຢ ີ ູ່ ໃນລາວ ແລະ ໄດ້ຕັດສິນໃຈເລີ່ມເຮັດທຸລະກິດກາເຟ. ເມື່ອເວົ້າເຖິງ ກາເຟ ກຸ່ມບໍລສ ິ ັດ ດາວເຮືອງ ແມ່ນເປັນຜູ້ນຳ�ທຸລະກິດການຄ້າດ້ານ ກາເຟໃນລາວ.ຈາກອາຣາບິກາໂກລ (Gold Arabica) ໄປເຖິງກາເຟຊົງ ສໍາເລັດຮູບ ແລະ ໄປເຖິງຊະນິດ 3 ໃນ 1 (3-in-1), ເຊິ່ງກາເຟດາວ ແມ່ນມີໃນທຸກຂະໜາດ. ນອກນັ້ນຍັງມີໂຮງງານແຫ່ງໃໝ່ ທີ່ສ້າງຂຶ້ນ ໃນເມືອງປາກຊ່ອງ ເຊິ່ງສາມາດສົ່ງເສີມວຽກເຮັດງານທຳ�ໃນທ່ອງຖິ່ນ ຈຳ�ນວນຫຼາຍ. 31


If you’re in need of a something hot, something iced, something sweet or something white, Vientiane has every option under the sun for your taste. Here we show you some of the best coffeehouses in the capital.

ຈັບຈອກກາເຟດືມ ່ ໃນເມືອງ ຖ້າທ່ານຄິດເຖິງກາເຟຈັກຈອກ ບໍ່ຕ້ອງຊອກຫາອື່ນໄກ ທີ່ນອກເໜືອໄປຈາກຖະໜົນ ໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນ, ເຊິ່ງມີຫຼາກຫຼາຍທາງເລືອກໃຫ້ແກ່ນັກດື່ມພາຍໃນ ແລະ ຕ່າງປະເທດ.

On busy Setthathirath Rd in the centre of Vientiane, Benoni is the perfect place to grab a lunchtime meal and catch up with friends or business colleagues. With an abundance of natural light, an airy interior and views onto the lively street below, it’s a contemporary café that appears almost chic restaurant. Although coffee may be the original draw, the food is what makes Benoni one of Vientiane’s most popular daytime hangout spots. Whether it’s Italian, French or Asian cuisine, it’s all catered for. The coffee is superb and has a smooth, rounded flavour, not to mention it’s roasted by the team themselves. One unique feature is that they work directly with organic farmers and also offer advice and support to new coffee shops wishing to learn about the trade and produce premium roasts. Wi-Fi available. Phonesavanh Vilivong : MD

Located on Setthathirath Rd above Phimphone Market and close to Nam Phu fountain.

ເບໂນນີ ໃນຖະໜົນ ເສດຖາທິລາດ ທີ່ຂ້ອນຂ້າງສັບສົນດ້ວຍຜູ້ຄົນ ໃນໃຈກາງຕົວເ​ ມືອງວຽງຈັນ, ເບໂນນີ (Benoni) ແມ່ນສະຖານທີ່ ທີ່ເໝາະສົມທີ່ສດ ຸ ສຳ�ລັບ ການຮັບປະທານອາຫານທ່ຽງ ແລະ ພົບປະກັບໝູ່ເພື່ອນແລະ ຄູ່ຮ່ວມທຸລະກິດ. ເຊິ່ງເປັນສະຖານທີ່ທີ່ໂປ່ງໃສ, ມີການຕົບແຕ່ງພາຍໃນຮ້ານທີ່ໃຫ້ ບັນຍາກາດແສນສະບາຍ ແລະ ສາມາດເບິ່ງເຫັນວິວຂ້າງນອກຖະໜົນດ້ານລຸ່ມ ທີ່ມຊ ີ ວ ີ ດ ິ ຊີວາດ້ວຍ ຜູ້ຄົນສັນຈອນໄປມາ.ບີໂນນີແມ່ນຮ້ານກາເຟທີ່ທັນສະໄໝ ແລະ ເປັນຮ້ານອາຫານທີ່ມເີ ອກະລັກ. ທາງຮ້ານຍັງມີກາເຟທີ່ມລ ີ ົດຊາດແຊບ ແລະ ມີເມນູອາຫານຕ່າງປະເທດທີ່ຫຼາກຫຼາຍ.

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s perhaps one of the years ago, Common Grounds offer A city favourite since opening two ary coffeehouse. ordin an t could be mistaken for just best food menus in Vientiane for wha ing friends? Skyp t whils itos burr or as adill enjoy ques Where else in the city can you ts a small boas even nds Grou café in town, Common Perhaps the most family friendly playground for children. coffee, slump back caramel waffles that soften over Make sure you try the Dutch style . They use Prime book good a with noon after away the into a comfortable chair and wile y plantation popp m opiu ious prev Luang Prabang on a Saffron coffee which is grown near free. es com i Wi-F so there’s a story in every cup too. in Chantabouly district, Vientiane Located at 35 Chao Anou Road

ກາເຟ ຄອມມອນ ກຣາວ

Eric Seevers : Manager

ມີສະຖານທີ່ໃດອີກໃນເມືອງທີ່ທ່ານສາມາດ ມີຄວາມສຸກກັບອາຫານແມັກຊີກັນ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ສົນທະນາກັບ ເພື່ອນທາງສະກາຍ (Skype) ບາງເທື່ອອາດເປັນ ຮ້ານກາເຟທີ່ໃຫ້ ຄວາມຮູ້ສກ ຶ ເປັນກັນເອງ ທີ່ສດ ຸ ໃນເມືອງ ເຊິ່ງທາງຮ້ານຍັງໄດ້ຈັດ ສັນ ສະໜາມຫຼີ້ນສຳ�ລັບເດັກນ້ອຍ. ທາງຮ້ານມີສະຖານທີ່ກ້ວາງ ແລະ ປອດໂປ່ງ ແລະ ຍັງມີ Wi-Fi ທີ່ບໍ່ຕ້ອງເສຍຄ່າ.

Salon de Thé at Dhavara Hotel is Vientiane’s newest café but offers some of the most exquisite coffee on this bend of the Mekong. They source their beans from Lao Mountain Coffee who specialise in artisan blends bought from FairTrade farms on the Bolaven Plateau. Their Washed Robusta blend is a deep, strong and sweet coffee, a little more elegant than the regular Robusta. Complement this with their selection of pizzas and cakes, and you’re ready to spend an entire evening in the confines of what will eventually be one of Vientiane’s most popular French-art cafés. Find them at 25 Manthatulath Road, Chanthabouly District in downtown Vientiane.

ຊາ​ລອນ ເ​ ດີ ​ເຕ ​ແອັດ ດາ​ວາ​ຣາ Salon de Thé ໂຮງແຮມ Dhavara ແມ່ນ ຮ້ານກາເຟໃໝ່ຫຼ້າສຸດຂອງ ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ແລະບໍລກ ິ ານກາເຟທີ່ດທ ີ ີ່ສດ ຸ ຕັ້ງຢູ່ທາງໂຄ້ງແມ່ຂອງ. ພວກເຂົານຳ�ໃຊ້ເມັດກາເຟຂອງຕົນເອງ ຈາກ ກາເຟເມົາເທີນລາວ (Lao Mountain Coffee) ເຊິ່ງເປັນຜູ້ທີ່ມຄ ີ ວາມຊ່ຽວຊານໃນການປຸງແຕ່ງກາເຟ ແລະ ເມັດກາເຟແມ່ນມາຈາກ ສວນກາເຟ ການຄ້າເປັນທຳ� (FairTrade) ຈາກພູພຽງບໍລເິ ວນ. ager Thirasack Inthavong : General Man

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travellers may Part of the True Coffee chain that , this coffee land Thai in ss acro bled stum have of coffees list a and r deco tyle shop has western-s a frappucino to as long as your arm. Whether it’s n the palette, hit the spot or creamy latte to softe True Coffee offers the lot. city to provide It’s one of the only spaces in the , meaning you computers for internet access also checking while joe a cupp a y enjo can actually emails and updating Facebook.

Designed by Mr Sinouk himself, you’re bound to pass this café on the Mekong riverfront at some point during a stay in the capital. The coffee inside comes direct from the farm in Paksong and is amongst the most flavoursome you’ll find in Laos. The interior, although small, is most definitely intimate. Use some free Wi-Fi, have a bite of pizza bread or browse through a magazine – Sinouk Café is a relaxing hangout spot ideal for peoplewatching as the world goes by. The menu serves a variety of quick eats and hosts a delectable assortment of baked goods, as well some blended iced coffees and fruit shakes. Situated at the corner of Francois Ngin and Fa Ngum Rds on the Mekong riverfront and also in Talat Sao Shopping Mall

ຮ້ານກາເຟ ສີໜຸກ

met pastries They’ve a wide selection of gour cheesecakes. too, including tortes, cookies and and you’re Throw in a quiche for good measure in town ting mee a ve set. It’s also perfect if you’ ene with big conv to e spac e som need and p of people. wooden tables open for a larger grou close to Nam Located at 111 Setthathirath Rd, Phu fountain

ທຣູ ຄອບຟີ ທຣູ ຄອບຟີ ແມ່ນສະຖານທີ່ດຽວໃນເມືອງ ທີ່ໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານ ອິນເຕີເນັດ ແລະ ຮ້ານກາເຟ ໃນສະຖານ ທີ່ດຽວກັນ, ນັ້ນກໍ່ໝາຍຄວາມວ່າທ່ານສາມາດ ມີຄວາມສຸກກັບການດື່ມກາເຟ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ກຳ�ລັງ ກວດເບິ່ງ ອີເມວ ຫຼື ອັບເດດ ເຟດບຸກ (Facebook) ຂອງທ່ານ. ທາງຮ້ານຍັງມີກາເຟ ແລະ ເຂົ້າໜົມ ທີ່ຫຼາກຫຼາຍໃຫ້ເລືອກ ພ້ອມທັງບັນຍາກາດພາຍໃນຮ້ານທີ່ປອດໂປ່ງ ແລະ ສະດວກສະບາຍ. er nag Ma isouk : Operation Ninpraseuth Chanthav

ຮ້ານ ກາເຟສີໜກ ຸ ນີ້ ແມ່ນ ອອກ​ແບບໂດຍ ທ່ານ ສີໜກ ຸ ເອງ, ເຊິ່ງຖ້າທ່ານພັກຢູ່ຕົວເມືອງວຽງຈັນ, ທ່ານ​ຄົງຕ້ອງໄດ້ມໂ ີ ອກາດ ຜ່ານມາຮ້ານນີ້ຢ່າງແນ່ນອນ, ເຊິ່ງຕັ້ງຢູ່ແຄມແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ. ກາເຟທີ່ໃຊ້ເສີບພາຍ ໃນຮ້ານແມ່ນສົ່ງໂດຍກົງມາຈາກສວນ ກາເຟ ເມືອງ ປາກຊ່ອງ ແລະ ເປັນໜື່ງໃນ ຈຳ�ນວນກາເຟ ທີ່ມລ ີ ົດຊາດທີ່ດທ ີ ີ່ສດ ຸ ໃນເມືອງ ທີ່ທ່ານສາມາດຫາໄດ້ໃນລາວ. ນອກນັ້ນ ທາງຮ້ານຍັງມີອາຫານຈານດ່ວນຫຼາຍເມນູເຊັ່ນ ພິຊາ ແລະ ເຂົ້າໜົມຕ່າງໆ.

ces are you’ll pass hing more than a night, then chan If you’re visiting Vientiane for anyt is on the doorstep tion addi est new The cafés in town. by at least one of the three Joma -up coffee. perk a or in for a cool refreshment of That Luang so make sure to stop are attracted to a city workers and visitors alike, who Joma is a firm favourite amongst an atmosphere suited and er dinn and h lunc t, kfas quick-fire menu that caters for brea more alfresco at the Seating on two floors and some to the solo flier or a group party. around. laze to ty of space and cosy corners city-centre location provides plen Bolaven Plateau ced from a community group on the Their FairTrade Arabica coffee sour drink, you help. Joma you as And r. -rise early the for h is distinctly strong, packing a punc in Laos. before profits to charitable causes proudly donates 2% of its take-in Nam Phu fountain. Rd in central Vientiane across from Ideally positioned on Setthathirath on the corner of g Luan That to e dara Gym and clos Also on Dongpaina Rd near Seng Nongbone Rd and Rue 23 Singha

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ໂຈມາ ໂຈມາ ເປັ ນຮ້າ ນກາເຟທີ່ໄ ດ້ຮັບຄວາມນິ ຍົມ ຫຼາຍ ໃນກຸ່ມ ຄົນເຮັ ດວຽກໃນເມື ອງ ກໍ່ຄືນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽ ວ, ຜູ້ທີ່ຕ້ອງການ ເມນູ ອາຫານທີ່ວ່ອງໄວ, ໂດຍສະເພາະອາຫານເຊົ້າ , ສວຍ ແລະ ແລງ ລວມທັງ ມີ ບັນຍາກາດທີ່ເ ໝາະສົມ ສຳ�ລັບ ມາຄົນດຽວ ຫຼື ມາເປັ ນກຸ່ມ . ໃນຮ້າ ນມີ ບ່ອນນັ່ງ ທັງສອງຊັ້ນ ພ້ອ ມທັງ ລະບຽງຂ້າ ງນອກກາງແຈ້ງ ເຊິ່ງ ຕັ້ງ ຢູ່ ໃນກາງຕົວ ເມື ອງ ເຊິ່ງມີ ພື້ນທີ່ເ ຫຼື ອໄວ້ສຳ�ລັບ ມູ ມ ພັກຜ່ອນແບບສະບາຍ ສະບາຍ



T R AV E L F E AT U R E

TIME TO SEND Story & Photos By Lorie Ann Cascaro

EVERY YEAR IN LAOS, AT THE BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON, COMMUNITIES GATHER TO ASK THE SKY FOR RAINS. IN A TRULY SPECIAL AND COLOURFUL WAY, TENS OF ROCKETS ARE SENT TOWARDS THE HEAVENS IN THE HOPE THAT WATER MAY BE SENT DOWN TO READY THE EARTH FOR PLANTING. IN NONHINHAE VILLAGE, THREE HOURS FROM VIENTIANE, THIS YEAR’S FESTIVAL WAS ONE OF A KIND AS IT SAW THE LAUNCH OF LAOS’ BIGGEST EVER ROCKET

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Amid the drizzle, seven men managed to carry a homemade rocket to the makeshift launch pad, which was as high as a three-story building. The rocket was made of hard plastic pipe and was full of gun powder, with a bamboo stick used as the tail. As it was gradually mounted, hundreds of people on the ground were holding their breath and waiting for it to cast a line of smoke in the sky. The swish of the rocket accompanied the sounds of pounding rain on the roofs, children’s laughter at a little carnival, and grown-ups’ cheers for a successful launch. The brown land, which was patched with colourful tents and degraded into a muddy trail, will surely turn green next month. It is a common hope among Lao people that the rains will give life to this land with the rise of the rockets.

At least 20 rockets, whose sizes ranged from the width of a wine bottle to that of an electricity post, had been launched in Nonhinhae village in Meuangfeuang district, a three hour drive north from Vientiane capital, to celebrate the biggest Bun Bang Fai or rocket festival in the country so far. Folklore tells the story of why human beings send rockets to the rain god, Phya Thaen, for his gift of water. Of all the kings who fought Phya Thaen to send down rain so people could start planting rice – including the Naga King and the King of Bees – it was the Toad King who conquered the rain god. The night before the fight, the Toad King sent termites to eat the sword handles of the rain god’s soldiers and scorpions to bite them. The next day, they were unable to fight the troops of the Toad King.

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to Phya Thaen, and convinced him The king caught and tied up ed that Phya agre They . dom free his for make a pact in exchange rice y year to supply water for the Thaen would send the rain ever so first et rock a send to had ans farms and other plants. But, hum deliver. The frogs will to time was it know ld wou that the rain god arriv es, send ing a mes sage to then shou t in chor us as the rain in. beg may farmers that the rice planting ge of the festival in Nonhinhae villa The most eagerly awaited part rding to the acco , Laos in et rock est bigg the was the blasting-off of der res long, with 900kg of gun pow event organisers. It was 5.5 met . pad ch laun the on it tion inside. A crane was used to posi for the best and biggest rockets, The festival became a showcase tivity and advanced knowledge. crea which displays the producers’ ary reason why people, including Whether or not it was the prim val, it had served its purpose as festi the join to ered foreigners, gath

they were able to experience the culture and traditions of ordinary Lao people. The attendees were able to see the Buddhist temp le and offer prayers and alms to monks, who also whispered prayers for the givers, while tying white strings arou nd thei r wris ts. Smi ling villa gers got reflective responses from visit ors who came from very different walks of life. T h e o n e d a y a ff a i r o ff e re d a complete experience – spiritual, social and gastronomical. Yes! A bite of sticky rice, whic h was cooked insid e a bam boo stal k, dipp ed into spic y papaya salad (tammakhoung) and followed by a barbecued native chicken, expl oded in the mouth like a rocket.

ໄ�ເ�ລາສ�ງບ�ງໄ�ຂນຟາ ແຕ່ ລ ະປີ ໃ ນລາວ, ເມື່ ອ ເລີ່ ມ ລະດູ ຝົ ນ , ບັ ນ ດາຊຸ ມ ຊົ ນ ຈະຮວມຕົ ວ ກັ ນ ເ ພື່ ອ ຂໍ ຝົ ນ ຈ າ ກ ຟ້ າ ດ້ ວ ຍ ວິ ທີ ກ າ ນ ທີ່ ມີ ສີ ສັ ນ ແ ລ ະ ພິ ເ ສ ດ ແ ທ້ ໆ . ບັ້ ງ ໄ ຟ ເ ປັ ນ ຈ ຳ ນ ວ ນ ຫຼ າ ຍ ສິ ບ ບັ້ ງ ຈ ະ ໄ ດ້ ຖື ກ ຈູ ດ ເ ພື່ ອ ສົ່ ງ ຂຶ້ ນ ໄ ປ ເ ທິ ງ ສ ະ ຫ ວັ ນ ຊັ້ ນ ຟ້ າ ໂ ດ ຍ ຫ ວັ ງ ວ່ າ ຟ້ າ ຈ ະ ສົ່ ງ ນໍ້ າ ຝົ ນ ລົ ງ ມ າ ສູ່ ພື້ ນ ໂ ລ ກ ສຳລັ ບ ການເພາະປູ ກ . ທີ່ ບ້ າ ນ ໂນນຫີ ນ ແຮ່ , ເຊິ່ ງ ໃຊ້ ເ ວລາ 3 ຊົ່ ວ ໂມງ ໃນການເດີ ນ ທາງຈາກນະຄອນຫຼ ວ ງວຽງຈັ ນ , ບຸ ນ ບັ້ ງ ໄຟປີ ນີ້ , ເປັ ນ ປີ ທີ່ ມີ ບັ້ ງ ໄຟໃຫຍ່ ທີ່ ສຸ ດ ກ່ ວ າປີ ຜ່ າ ນມາ, ເຊິ່ ງ ມີ ນໍ້ າ ໜັ ກ ໝື້ ປື ນ ຢູ່ ພ າຍໃນບັ້ ງ ຫຼ າ ຍ ກວາ 900 ກິໂ�. ທີ່ ມ າຂອງບຸ ນ ບັ້ ງ ໄຟ ແມ່ ນ ມາຈາກບັ ນ ດານິ ທ ານຕ່ າ ງໆ. ມີ ນິ ທ ານກ່ າ ວວ່ າ ພະຍາຄ�ນຄາກ ໄ�ຊະນະ ພະຍາແ�ນ,ເ�ງພະເ�າແ�ງຝ�ນ, ໃ�ການແ�ງຂ�ນ ແ�ະ ພະຍາແ�ນຕອງໄ�ສງຝ� � ນລ�ງມາສູໂ  �ກ ແ�ະ ຕອງແ�ນເ�ລາທທານເ�ັ ນບັ້ ງ ໄຟຂື້ ນ ໄປເທົ່ າ ນັ້ ນ . ໃນແຕ່ ລ ະປີ , ມັ ນ ມີ ຄ ວາມຈຳເປັ ນ ຫຼ າ ຍທີ່ ຕ້ ອ ງ ມີ ນໍ້ າ ເພື່ ອ ການດຳລົ ງ ຊີ ວິ ດ ແລະ ການປູ ກ ຝັ ງ ໃນລາວ. ພາຍໃນງານບຸ ນ , ມີ ອ າຫານຫຼ າ ກຫຼ າ ຍ, ເຊິ່ ງ ລວມ ມີ ຕໍ່ າ ໝາກຮຸ່ ງ ເຊິ່ ງ ມີ ລົ ດ ຊາດເຜັ ດ ລະ ເ�ີດເ�ືອນບ�ງໄ�!

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O N D I S P L AY

Showcasing Laos’ living diversity By Michelle Luehman

Tucked away in the shadow of Phu Si Hill, which is the highest point in Luang Prabang, is a colonial house steeped in history and it is home to one of the country’s finest gems, the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC).

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TAEC was conceived in 2006 by Tara Gujadhur and Thongkhoun Soutthivilay, two people determined to preserve the authentic cultural and tangible heritage of Laos’ ethnic peoples, of which there are 45 recognised groups. Today, the centre hosts some of their most important traditional artefacts and handicrafts. Ethnic peoples make up an estimated 45% of the official Lao population and their lifestyles and traditions vary considerably. Through related linguistic families and connections in dress and cuisine, it is often difficult to pinpoint with complete accuracy the exact characteristics which give these indigenous populations a unique identity. This privately run, public facility is attempting to capture, document and maintain these individual histories and heritage for everyone in Laos. The initial aim of TAEC was to work with rural ethnic women, the poorest economic group in the country, to showcase their handicrafts. Giving Lao nationals and international visitors the opportunity to appreciate and understand the diversity, skill and

intricacy of what these women created was to help build sustainable livelihoods for them as they could choose to stay in their villages and support their families through sales of their crafts. The principle of the ‘living museum’ is a philosophical corner stone for TAEC. Of utmost importance is the idea of preservation, which sits hand in hand with the concept of acknowledging the adaptation of culture. Many of us visiting a country such as Laos hope to see a place lost in time, where tradition is of more importance than the experience of present living. The reality is that people here are human and are not immune to the desires of a better and easier life, and the museum promotes this vision within its walls. TAEC encourages both the retention of the traditional and the integration of the new. The beautiful national costumes, which are the hallmark exhibit of the museum, reveal an awe-inspiring craftsmanship through delicately designed weaving, accomplished seamstress skills and needlework.

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The embroidery, which many Lao women are so graciously proud of, and highly praised for, is carried with them as they move through their tasks of the day. The cases that hold the precious needles and threads are in a special pouch that is attached to the belt of the wearer. In a small display, we see three of these: the traditional case made from bamboo, another from scrap metal, beaten and shaped, and the latest model made from blue plastic pen tops. Exhibition pieces are sourced from villages, and where the community is unable to maintain it, a fair price is paid. Both Tara and Thongkhoun are adamant that the collection of works from the tribe is not a sustainable strategy for maintaining cultural history. At the same time, they are realists and recognise that collectors are a valid way of preserving arts and crafts and they regularly and gratefully showcase these generous donations. The centre is a place to teach local Lao children and adults about the diversity of their culture. Often, education projects and programmes from Luang Prabang and further afield take place here, fostering a knowledge, love and

pride of the arts. Lao nationals enter free of charge, while visitors pay 20,000 kip, but this small donation falls well short of the money needed to maintain the collections. The exhibits are forever changing and it is an excellent snapshot of a lifestyle and culture most of us may never see, and much of which is quickly disappearing. Contact TAEC Ban Khamyong, Luang Prabang - Lao P.D.R Phone: (+856) 71 253 364 information@taeclaos.org www.taeclaos.org

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ສູນສິນລະປະຊ�ນເ�າວິທະຍາ (TAEC) ວງພະບາງ ສູ ນ ສິ ນ ລະປະຊົ ນ ເຜົ່ າ ວິ ທ ະຍາ TAEC ເລີ່ ມ ໃນປີ 2006 ແລະ ມີ ຈຸ ດ ປະສົ ງ ເພື່ ອ ສະແດງ ຄວາມ ຫຼ າ ກຫຼ າ ຍ ໃ�ການດ�ລ�ງຊີວິດ ໃ�ດານວ�ດທະນະທ�ຂອງຄ�ນລາວ. ໂ�ຍມີາຍກວາ 45 ຊ�ນເ�າ ທເ�ັນທຮ�ບຮູໃ�ປະເ�ດ, ດ�ງນ�ນຈງມີຄວາມສ�ຄ�ນ ແ�ະ ຈ�ເ�ັນທຈະຕອງອານຸລ�ກຮ�ກສາ ຄວາມ ເ�ັນມາຂອງພວກເ�ົາເ�າໄ�, ແ�ະ ຈຸດ ປະສ�ງ�ກກແ�ນເ�ອຮ�ບປະກ�ນໃ�ຄ�ນລຸນ�ງໄ�ມີ ໂ�ກາດ ໄ�ເ�ັນສງເ�ານ. ບ�ນດາຊຸມຊ�ນຊ�ນເ�າ ໄ�ສະໜອງ ຜະລິດຕະພ�ນຕາງໆເ�ນ: ໜວກ, ເ�ອງນຸງ ຫ�ມ ທ�ວໄ� ແ�ະ ເ�ອງນຸງ ຫ�ມທໃ�ສ�ລ�ບໃ�ພິທກ ີ ານຕາງໆ ແ�ສນ ູ ແ�ະ ເ�ອທຈະໃ�ສງເ�ານຍ�ງ ຄ�ງຢູຕໄ�. ບ�ນດາຊ�ນເ�າໄ�ຮ�ບລາຍໄ�ຈາກຜະລິດຕະພ�ນຂອງພວກເ�ົາ TAEC ໄ� ພະຍາຍາມ ສອນເ�ັກນອຍ ໃ�ຮູຄວາມສ�ຄ�ນຂອງວ�ດທະນາທ� ແ�ະ ກເ�ັນການງາຍທຈະສອນພວກເ�ົາ ເ�າະ ພວກເ�ົາສາມາດເ�ັນປະຈ�ກຕາສງຕາງໆຕ�ວຈິງໃ�ຫອງວາງສະແ�ງຕາງໆ. ເ�ອທານມາຢຽມ ຢາມວງພະບາງ, ມ�ນເ�ັນສງທມີຄຸນຄາທຈະເ�າຢຽມຊ�ມສູນແ�ງນ.


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LAO CUISINE

TRADITIONAL LAO SAUSAGE

Story & Photos By Ian Lacey

Lao sausage is one of the most popular specialities to be found throughout the country and can be prepared in a variety of ways with a whole host of ingredients. At marriage ceremonies, religious events and other festivities, the dish is a traditional and well-liked staple. Normally pork is used but spicy beef is another option. We visited Dhavara Restaurant in downtown Vientiane to sample their take on the tasty dish.

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Ingredients: -

175g of minced pork 2 teaspoons of lime juice 1 tablespoon of chopped garlic 2 tablespoons of mixed herbs and spices Half a tablespoon of salt 50cm of rinsed sausage casings

Preparation: 1. Crush the garlic, mix the herbs and spices together and add the salt. 2. Add the minced pork and lime juice. Mix thoroughly. 3. Fill the pork casings and tie the ends. 4. Heat the oil on a frying pan and cook the sausage for 15 minutes until it’s golden. About the Chef Ms Khaikoun Phanovong is one of Dhavara’s prime assets. A young and motivated chef, Khaikoun was a teacher in Xayaboury Vocational Culinary College before reaching the restaurant. Her menu includes Lao favourites from laap to papaya salad and western style foods such as paninis and pizzas.

ໃ�ກອກພນເ�ືອງລາວ ໃ�ກອກພນເ�ືອງລາວ ແ�ນ ອາຫານ ທໄ�ຮບ � ຄວາມນິຍມ � ໃ�ລາວ ແ�ະ ສາມາດ ປຸງແ�ງ ອາຫານໄ�າຍຮູບແ�ບ. ໃ�ງານແ�ງດອງ, ພິທທ ີ າງສາດສະໜາ ແ�ະ ງານບຸ ນ ປະເ�ນີ ຕ າ ງໆ, ເ�ນູ ໃ � ກ ອກ ແ� ນ ເ�ັ ນ ອາຫານປະເ�ນີ ແ�ະ ຕິດພ�ນກ�ບວິຖຊ ີ ວ ີ ດ ິ ພນບານ. ຕາມທ�ມະດາແ�ວ ໄ�ກອກແ�ນເ�ັດດວຍຊນໝູ ແຕ່ ວ່າ ຊີ້ນງົວ ມີລົດຊາດເຂັ້ ມກ່ ວ າ ກໍ່ ສາມາດນຳມາເຮັ ດໃສ້ ກອກໄດ້ ດີ ແລະ ໄ�ຮບ � ຄວາມນິຍມ � . ພວກເ�ົາ ໄ�ໄ�ຢຽມຢາມ ຮານອາຫານ ດາວາຣາ Dhavara, ໃ�ເ�ດ ໃ�ເ�ືອງ ເ�ອລອງຊິມລ�ດຊາດເ�ນູໃ�ກອກ.

ເ�ອງປະສ�ມ: - ຊນໝູຊ�ບ 175 ກຼາມ - ນ�ໝາກນາວ 2 ບວງຊາ - ກະທຽມຊ�ບ 1 ບວງແ�ງ - ສະມຸນໄ� ແ�ະ ເ�ອງເ�ບ 2 ບວງແ�ງ - ເ�ືອ ເ�ງບວງແ�ງ - ໃ�ໝູບາງທລາງແ�ວສ�ລ�ບຍ�ດໃ�ກອກໃ� ຍາວ50 ເ�ັນຕີເ�ັດ ການກະກຽມ: 1. ເ�ົາກະທຽມບ�ດ ປ�ນກ�ບບ�ນດາສະມຸນໄ� ແ�ະ ເ�ອງເ�ບ ໃ�ເ�າກ�ນ ແ�ະ ເ�ີມເ�ືອລ�ງໄ�. 2. ເ�ົາຊນໝູບ�ດລ�ງໃ� ແ�ະ ຄ�ນໃ�ເ�າກ�ນຢາງທ�ວເ�ິງ. 3. ເ�ົາຊນໝູທໝ�  ກແ�ວຍ�ດໃ�ໃ�ໃ� ແ�ວມ�ດທ�ງສອງສ�ນ. 4. ຕ�ງໝນ�ມ�ນໃ�ຮອນ ແ�ະ ເ�ົາໃ�ກອກລ�ງຈືນ ປະມານ 15 ນາທີ ຈ�ນກວາໃ�ກອກກາຍ ເ�ັນສີທອງ. ການກະກຽມ: 1. ເ�ົາກະທຽມບ�ດ ປ�ນກ�ບບ�ນດາສະມຸນໄ� ແ�ະ ເ�ອງເ�ບ ໃ�ເ�າກ�ນ ແ�ະ ເ�ີມເ�ືອລ�ງໄ�. 2. ເ�ົາຊນໝູບ�ດລ�ງໃ� ແ�ະ ຄ�ນໃ�ເ�າກ�ນຢາງທ�ວເ�ິງ. 3. ເ�ົາຊນໝູທໝ�  ກແ�ວຍ�ດໃ�ໃ�ໃ� ແ�ວມ�ດທ�ງສອງສ�ນ. 4. ຕ�ງໝນ�ມ�ນໃ�ຮອນ ແ�ະ ເ�ົາໃ�ກອກລ�ງຈືນ ປະມານ 15 ນາທີ ຈ�ນກວາໃ�ກອກກາຍ ເ�ັນສີທອງ.

Special thanks to Dhavara Restaurant 25 Manthalath Rd, Chantabouly District, Vientiane, Tel: +856 21 222238 45


S A B A I D E E TA B L E

MAKPHET By Ian Lacey

Make an impact while you eat at one of Vientiane’s most inviting and colourful restaurants

It’s rare to dine out and contribute to a charitable cause at the very same time but Makphet restaurant, behind Wat Ong Teu in downtown Vientiane, is the place to do it. Stepping into the fresh lime green building that sits on a quiet Vientiane road, the first impression is definitely one of warmth and snugness. But look a little closer and spot the bright handmade figurines, miniature stuffed elephants and finely stitched cushions in their giftshop and you’ll wonder what’s going on. Makphet is 6 years old and operated by Peuan Mit, the Lao name of Friends International, a charity which provides services for street 46

children, disadvantaged youth and their families in and around Vientiane. Makphet itself is an award-winning vocational training restaurant which supports the charity and also offers some of the finest Lao cuisine in the capital. The chefs and waiting staff spend 18 months training here before moving on to other restaurants or starting their own businesses. Order a frozen hibiscus and lime daiquiri while you mull over the menu. Maybe start out with a grilled eggplant salad accompanied by lemongrass, galangal and peanuts. Then, try their Luang Prabang style buffalo and vegetable stew. Top it all off with a slice of steamed pumpkin cake with palm sugar syrup and the evening is complete.


Travellers often remark that the restaurant is unique for its broad flavour combinations, which are innovative but show no compromise in taste. It also suits because it serves halfportions for anyone dining alone or those wanting to grab a lighter bite. The space is extremely family friendly too. The menu broadly sweeps from salads and laap to soups and curries to some tasty steamed and grilled meats and vegetables. For the vegetarian, it also has some superb options such as the crispy rice cake and vegetable stir-fry, as well as the steamed green vegetables with herb and mushroom salad. Dining is cosily available inside and out, but space can be limited especially at night time so calling ahead to book is the best option.

ໝາກເ�ັດ Makphet ຮ�ບປະທານອາຫານຄ� ແ�ະ ຊວຍການກຸສ�ນໄ� ຢູທໜ  ງໃ�ຮານອາຫານທມີລ�ດຊາດ ແ�ະ ສີສ�ນທສຸດ ໃ�ບ�ນດາຮານອາຫານໃ�ວຽງຈ�ນ ຮານອາຫານ ໝາກເ�ັດ ແ�ນ ບໍລິຫານໂ�ຍ ກຸມເ�ອນມິດ PeuanMit, ເ�ັນຊພາ ສາລາວ ທໝາຍເ�ິງຄວາມເ�ັນເ�ອນມິດສາກ�ນ, ເ�ງເ�ັນມຸນລະນິທິທໃ�ການ ຊວຍເ�ືອແ� ເ�ັກນອຍ ຂາງຖະໜ�ນ, ໄ�ໜຸມທດອຍໂ�ກາດ ແ�ະ ຄອບຄ�ວຂອງ ພວກເ�ົາໃ�ທຸກໆມື. ເ�ອທານ ມາ ທານອາຫານຢູທ  ນ  ,ນ�ນກໝາຍຄວາມວາທານໄ� ປະກອບສວນຕການກຸສ�ນໄ�ພອມກ�ນ. ບາງທີ ເ�ມຈາກ ເ�ນູ ສະລ�ດ ໝາກເ�ືອປງ, ຕິດຕາມດວຍ ນ�ໝາກນາວ, ຄາ ແ�ະ ໝາກ ຖ�ວດິນ. ເ�ນູຕໄ�  ລອງຊິມ ຊນຄວາຍທຸບ ແ�ບວງພະບາງ ແ�ະ ຕ�ມຜ�ກ. ລ�ງທາຍດວຍ ໝາກອຶໜງ ໃ�ນ�ຕານເ�ອມ ແ�ະ ເ�ັນການສນສຸດເ�ນູອາຫານແ�ງ. ເ�ນູອາຫານ ແ�ນ ມີຢາງາກາຍ ນ�ບແ�ສະລ�ດ ແ�ະ ລາບ ຈ�ນເ�ິງ ແ�ງ ແ�ະ ຊນໜງ ແ�ະ ປງຕາງໆ ແ�ະ ມີຜ�ກກ�ບ. ບ�ນຍາກາດອາຫານແ�ງຂອງຮານ ແ�ນມີທ�ງ ໂ�ະພາຍໃ�ຮານ ແ�ະ ລະບຽງທ ປອດໂ�ງ, ແ�ສະຖານທ ຂອນຂາງຈ�ກ�ດ, ໂ�ຍສະເ�າະແ�ນຕອນຄ�, ດ�ງນ�ນ ການໂ�ຈອງກອນລວງ ໜາຈະເ�ັນທາງເ�ືອກທດີທສຸ  ດ. ຮ້ານອາຫານ ໝາກເຜັດ �ງວ�ດອ�ງຕ,ທາງຮວມຄູຂະໜານ ກ�ບຖະໜ�ນ ເ�ດຖາທິລາດ, ນະຄອນວງວຽງຈ�ນ ໂ�: +856 21 260587.

At the time of writing, Makphet was rated by TripAdvisor as #1 out of 182 restaurants listed in Vientiane.

Makphet Behind Wat Ong Teu, parallel to Setthathirath Rd, Vientiane Tel: +856 21 260587 contact@makphet-restaurant.org www.makphet-restaurant.org Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm Closed Tue and Thurs 2pm-6pm 47


SABAIDEE RELAX

THE REJUVENATION

FACTOR

Lie back, close your eyes and indulge yourself within the years of professional knowledge, expertise and care at the Yves Rocher treatment salon in central Vientiane

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Imagine the incredible feeling that a complete spa treatment offers the body. Consider then the dedicated, revitalising facial therapies offered by Yves Rocher in Vientiane, which focuses its efforts into pampering the face with a vast array of naturally sourced plant and fruit extracts. Yves Rocher prides itself on 50 years of botanical research, where every treatment uses the power of natural properties. Whether it’s the Botanical Deep Cleaning Treatment or the Ultra Hydrating Botanical Treatment, you will experience the immediate and lasting advantages from decades of regenerating care. Your face emerges soft and luminous, with vitamins and minerals from only natural sources invigorating the skin. Impurities are washed away and filling that void are nutritious proteins and the essence of nature. The skilled staff can also determine your skin type and recommend the best skin care solutions, offering a variety of cosmetic products to further build on the facial care treatment. Appointments can be made for 35 minute to 75 minute sessions and several different facial therapies are available.

ມາຜ່ອນຄາຍ ແລະ ຊົດຊື່ນ ທີ່ Yves Rocher, ວຽງຈັນ

Yves Rocherມີ ຄ ວາມພູ ມ ໃຈໃນຕົ ນ ເອງໃນຜົ ນ ງານການຄົ ້ ນ ຄ້ ວ າທາງດ້ າ ນພຶ ດ ພັ ນ ມາເປັ ນເວລາ 50 ປີ , ເຊິ ່ ງ ທຸ ກການຮັ ກສາແມ່ ນ ນຳເອົ າ ພະລັ ງ ຄຸ ນສົ ມ ບັ ດຂອງທຳມະຊາດມ ານຳໃຊ້ . ບໍ່ ວ ່ າ ຈະເປັ ນ ການຮັ ກ ສາໂດຍການ ອະນາໄມຢ່ າ ງລໍ້ າ ເລິ ກ ຂອງທຳມະຊາດ ຫຼື ການຮັ ກ ສາທຳມະຊາດໂດຍການ ເພີ ່ ມ ຄວາມຊຸ ່ ມ ຊື ່ ນ , ທ່ າ ນຈະໄດ້ ພົ ບ ປະສົ ບ ການ ຈາກຜົ ນປະໂຫຍດທີ ່ ຍາວນານ ແລະ ທັ ນໃຈ ຈາກການຮັ ກສາທີ ມີ ມ າເປັ ນເວລາຫຼ າ ຍສິ ບປີ . Yves Rocher ຖືວ ່າເປັນການບຳບັດຮັກສາໃບໜ້າໃຫ້ຍົກກະຊັບທີ່ໄດ້ຮ ັບຜົນດີໃນວຽງຈັນ, ເຊິ ່ ງ ເນັ ້ ນ ໃສ່ ການເຮັ ດໃຫ້ ໃ ບໜ້ າ ມີ ຄວາມອ່ ອນເຍົ າ ໂດຍວິ ທີ ກຳຈາກພື ດທຳມະຊາດ ແລະ ຜົ ນ ສະກັ ດຈາກ ໜາກໄມ້ . ພະນັກງານທີ ່ມີຄວາມສາມາດ ຂອງ Yves Rocher ຍັງສາມາດລະບຸປະເພດຜິວຂອງທ່ານ ແລະ ໃຫ້ ຄ ຳແນະນຳວິ ທີ ຮ ັ ກ ສາທີ່ ຖື ກ ຕ້ ອ ງ ແລະ ດີ ທີ່ ສຸ ດ ຕໍ່ ສ ະພາບຜິ ວ ຂອງທ່ າ ນ. ການນັ ດໝາຍກ່ ອນແມ່ ນ ສາມາດເຮັ ດໄດ້ ເຊິ ່ ງ ມີ ເ ປັ ນຫຼ ັ ກສູ ດ ສຳລັ ບ 35 ນາທີ ຫາ 75 ນາທີ ແລະ ມີການບໍລິການຮັກສາ ໃບໜ້າທີ ່ແຕກຕ່າງກັນຫຼາຍຮູບແບບ. ທີ ່ ຢູ ່ : ຖະໜົ ນປາງຄຳ, ເມື ອງຈັ ນທະບູ ລີ , ນະຄອນຫຼ ວ ງວຽງຈັ ນ. ໂທ: +856 21 216025 ອີ ເ ມວ: mina@annam-group.com

Yves Rocher Rue Pangkham, Chanthabouly district, Vientiane. Tel: +856 21 216025 mina@annam-group.com 49


LAO ROOM

FOR BUSINESS SAKE DON CHAN PALACE HOTEL AND CONVENTION CENTRE Overlooking a great bend in the Mekong River, Don Chan Palace is one of the most distinctive landmarks on Vientiane’s skyline. Built for the ASEAN Summit in 2004, the 239 spacious and luxurious guestrooms lack nothing when it comes to relaxation and business facilities. They offer panoramic views of the capital and a home away from home, while wireless internet and IDD phone service come as standard. The executive floors provide that added degree of comfort while upgraded business and leisure amenities make Unit 6, Piawat Village, a stay here one never to forget. The Sisatanak District, Vientiane convention facilities offer several sizes of rooms, ranging from the Tel: +856 21 244288 2-room combi with a capacity of 80 Fax: +846 21 244111-2 people, to the Grand Ball Room, info@donchanpalacelaopdr.com, catering for up to 2,000 people. To top www.donchanpalacelaopdr.com this off, Don Chan Palace includes two restaurants, a bakery, a fitness club and Healing Hands Spa and Massage.

Don Chan Palace Hotel

LAO PLAZA HOTEL Lao Plaza Hotel is ideally situated in central Vientiane and is well known as Laos’ first 5 star accommodation. With decor inspired by national culture, the modern and old are blended together to create a space of i n t e r n a t i o n a l c l a s s l u x u r y. F ro m superior rooms to studio and executive s u i t e s , t h e h o t e l o ff e r s a g re a t diversity of accommodation options. 63 Samsenthai Rd, Vientiane Each room has satellite TV, high Tel: +856 21 218800 speed internet and rooms safes. Within the complex, there are spa Fax: +856 21 21808-9 and massage facilities, a swimming lph@laoplazahotel.com pool, jacuzzi, fitness centre and a www.laoplazahotel.com business centre, which includes private meeting rooms. An airline office and travel agency located within the building make Lao Plaza Hotel a truly convenient and superior option for a stay in the capital.

Lao Plaza Hotel

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CHAMPASAK GRAND HOTEL Located along the Mekong River in Pakse, the Champasak Grand is the best deluxe business class hotel in the city. The hotel is just 5km away from Pakse International Airport and has 215 well-appointed rooms and suites offering magnificent views of the area, while two conference rooms are available for events of any occasion. The swimming pool – surrounded by lush gardens – and top quality fitness centre are additions that make anyone’s time in Pakse a resting and relaxing one. Champa Spa has traditional Lao massage, a sauna and body scrubs for the business person looking to unwind. Three restaurants and meeting and banquet facilities cater for up Lao Nippon Bridge, Mekong to 2000 people. Several types Riverside Rd, Pakse, Champasak, a n d s i z e s o f ro o m s o ff e r inter net, mini-bars, highTel: +856 31 255111 speed internet and private Fax: +856 31 255119 balconies. res@champasakgrand.com

Champasak Grand Hotel

www.champasakgrand.com

VIENTIANE PLAZA HOTEL Located in the centre of Vientiane, the 4 star Vientiane Plaza Hotel is an ideal place for national and international business people. A wide range of facilities and services such as modern meeting ro o m s a n d w o r k i n g o ff i c e s a d d t h a t e x t r a convenience to the traveller’s stay. The Ballroom offers a grand space for corporate events as well as weddings and is coupled with catering that is second to none, exuding a special and unrivalled charm. The Imperial Restaurant and Deli Cake Shop mean you won’t go hungry and with accommodation offering excellent room service, wireless internet, a mini-bar and decadently moder n furnishings, it’s a move away from work and step into indulgence. Spa and massage as well as a private tennis court give Vientiane Plaza a unique and matchless appeal.

Vientiane Plaza Hotel

FOR BUSINESS

Sailom Rd Chantabouly District, Vientiane Tel: +856 21 265365 Fax: +856 21265399 reservation@vientianeplazalao.com www.vientianeplazalao.com

SAKE

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LAO SOUVENIR

Take Home

the Finer Side of Laos Premium fabric from the Lao Silk Store Located on Setthathirath Rd in central Vientiane is the Lao Silk Store, which displays a stylish and plenteous range of silk goods. The shop is known for its fine multicoloured scarves, which are the most popular item for visitors wishing to take home an authentic piece of Laos. Sourced from northern and southern provinces, the silk that arrives to the store is unsurpassed. Browse around for several minutes and you’ll soon realise the great diversity of items to be found. Dresses, traditional sin (skirts), hats and blouses are amongst the most obvious. However, dig a little deeper and you’ll stumble upon silk toy animals, night gowns and cushions. Hand-woven and hand-dyed, these are a true treasure of Laos. Make sure to check out the magnificently carved rosewood bowls, elephants and trinket boxes on offer downstairs. The store also caters to those looking for work wear. As a fabric seller, they make clothes to order and turn out the finished item in a day or two. Prices start at 150,000 kip for made-to-order clothes.

ມຸ ມ ສິ ນລະປະຂອງລາວ ຕ�ງຢູຖ  ະໜ�ນເ�ດຖາທິລາດກາງຕ�ວເ�ືອງວຽງຈ�ນ, ນ�ນແ�ນ ຮານໃ�ລາວ, ເ�ງວາງສະແ�ງຜະລິດ ຕະພັ ນ ໃໝຫຼ າ ກຫຼ າ ຍຮູ ບ ແບບທີ່ ມີ ເ ອກະລັ ກ . ຜະລິ ດ ຕະພັ ນ ໃໝ ທີ່ ນ ຳມາວາງສະແດງໃນ ຮ້ າ ນແມ່ ນ ມາ ຈາກບັ ນ ດາແຂວງທາງພາກເໜື ອ ແລະ ພາກໄຕ້ ຂ ອງລາວ ເຊິ່ ງ ເປັ ນ ສິ່ ງ ທີ່ ມະຫ�ດສະຈ�ນ. ເ�ອເ�າະ ຊ�ມຢູພໍປະມານແ�ະ ທານ ກຈະໄ�ພ�ບ ເ�ອງນຸງຫ�ມ, ສນ, ໝວກ ແ�ະ ເ�ອຜູຍ  ງິ ທມີຢາ ງາກ າຍ. ເ�ອງຈາກເ�ັນຜູຂ  າຍແ�ນແ�, ທາງຮານຍ�ງສາມາດຮ�ບຕ�ດ ເ�ອງຕາມສ�ງຈາກໄ�ອກ ີ ເ�ງ ທານສາມາດສ�ງ ແ�ະ ຮ�ບສິນຄາໄ�ພາຍໃ� 1 ື 2 ມ. ລາຄາແ�ນ ເ�ມແ�ນຈາກ 150,000 ກີບ ສ�ລ�ບລາຄາສ�ງເ�ອງ.

the Lao Silk Store

Find

at 98 Setthathirath Rd, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane, across the road from True Coffee and on the corner. Tel: +856 21 223496 mailaostore@hotmail.com

52


VIENTIANE OFFICE 265 Baan Nongbone, Xaysetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R Tel. | Fax. +856 21 454782, 20 5516 2440

BANGKOK OFFICE 8, Soi Phahonyothin 29, Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao, Jatujak, Bangkok, Thailand 10900 Tel. 66 (0) 2939 5512-3, 2939 5488 | Fax. 66 (0) 2939 5477


TRIP Diary

Boating the Mekong and Nam Ou:

By Ian Lacey

Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw With Laos’ vast network of rivers, taking a boat trip is high on the list of priorities for visitors to the country. One of the most accessible and beautiful stretches of river lies between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw, where sheer limestone rock faces, plentiful wildlife and scenes of rural existence pass by with the slow and gentle breaking of the waters.

54


It’s Pi Mai (Lao New Year) and we’re already wet as we approach the rusty, blue bolted doors of the boat launch office in Luang Prabang. Our plan is to take a longboat to Nong Khiaw, a small two-street town around 8 hours away and hanging precipitously from the cliff sides overlooking the Nam Ou River. Eventually, a bumbling, heavy-set man approaches and tells us the boat will be here soon. He sells us tickets for 110,000 kip each and turns his eyes to the ceiling, drifting into what appears to be a semi-comatose consequence of the recent celebrations. Drifting out onto the Mekong River in Luang Prabang was always hoped to be picture book, and somehow already embedded in a memory t h a t h a d n ’t e v e n f o r m e d y e t . To f o rg e northwards and upstream on the Mekong, wondering if any of that frigid Tibetan water

still coursed through its channel had been imagined for so long that the actual experience seemed like an affront to my counterfeit remembrance. The longboat is thin and rickety, about 22ft in length and nailed together with innumerable shades of timber. There are just two of us on board, while the driver sits up front with the back of his Beatles’ bowl-cut hairstyle facing us down the narrow vessel. As we motor away past Luang Prabang, Áine – my girlfriend – tries to stretch her legs and shift position a little, the boat listing heavily to the side. Moving will be a delicate exercise but one soon to master. After three hours we see two lines of tourists – antlike in their distant procession – crawling up the karst mountainside to the Pak Ou caves, a famous geological imprint on this impressive landscape. Shortly after, the boat veers right and we enter the clear-coloured flow of the Nam Ou, distinctly more transparent than its muddier mother river. An immense wall of brown, streaked rock appears, perhaps 200 metres high and this marks the beginning of some immense folds and creases on our immediate topography. Trying to extrapolate the incredible history scribbled in every line of the mountainside was as futile as the lonesome trees clinging for dear life on top of it. It’s not long before we reach the Nam Ou dam, a massive hydropower project that currently stands as a mish-mash of steel, sand and stones, topped by the gigantic rolling wheels 55


T h e b o a t f ro m L u a n g Prabang to Nong Khiaw (7-8 hours) departs from the longboat office, across from the Big Tree Café on the Mekong riverfront. Prices around 110,000 kip and departs at 9am.

of diggers and heavy-load trucks. Soon, this trip up the river will be impossible, with boat and fish alike meeting a wall of concrete impenetrability. The further north we go, the shallower the river becomes. At many points it’s possible to see the riverbed whirring by underneath and on occasion, the dull thump of large boulders skimming the boat’s keel. Its dry season and not to be unexpected, but we’ve heard of people stepping into the river to dislodge the slender craft from a sandbank or raised pool of stones. We’re lucky as we have the longboat to ourselves and spend the afternoon drifting in and out of languid daydreams. We’ve already seen an Asian elephant on the banks of the river, standing in that content yet lethargic pose associated with this particular quadruped. “Look, look!” Áine shouts, “Did you see that?” I hasten a reply and she tells me a giant yellow fish, perhaps 5 ft long, spine arched and supremely bright just leaped from the water beside the boat. I assure her that can’t be right as any fish that big and yellow would’ve surely been seen by me. The boat driver, propped up on a thin wooden box beside a half eaten bag of sticky rice, turns around and winks at Áine, with a surprised smile on his face. I was out of luck this time after all.

As late afternoon rolled in, the sky becomes overcast and the wind whistles through plastic sheets on the roof. An old man, bare-chested and wearing Adidas shorts, flags down the longboat and we pick him up for the remainder of the journey. A squall was edging in and the full fury of early rainy season was about to be unleashed. What were earlier deep green riverbanks and shining beige sands now evolve into tumultuous tones of grey. Bending around one last corner, the sight of three sharp limestone pinnacles mark the mountainous confluence where Nong Khiaw sits. The driver edges up on the bank, slicing through the wet sand to a stop. A crack rings out in the sky above and droplets of rain collect on my hand as I drag a rucksack and plastic bags full of biscuits and water up the steep hill, around roaming chickens and happy piglets. Its cooler now and we realise that our timing is just right. Nursing a repetitive graze on my left foot from the scraping of some under-sized flips-flops, we scurry into an open restaurant as the sky opens and exotic birds nervously dash around their cages overlooking the Nam Ou. Laos prayed for rains that morning on the streets of Luang Prabang – the last of the Pi Mai festivities. And now the heavens cast down their watery reply.

ລ່ອງເຮືອ ຈາກ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ຫາ ໜອງຂຽວ:ການພົບກັນຂອງແມ່ນໍ້າຂອງ ແລະ ນໍ້າອູ ອອກຈາກຫຼວງພະບາງ, ມີຄວາມເປັນໄປໄດ້ທີ່ຈະຂີ່ເຮືອຂື້ນຕາມລຳແມ່ນໍ້າຂອງ ແລະ ໄປພົບຈອດ ກັບແມ່ນໍ້າອູ ແລະ ໃຊ້ເວລາປະມານ 8 ຊົ່ວໂມງ, ທ່ານກໍ່ຈະມາເຖິງ ໜອງຂຽວ. ໃນລະຫວ່າງທາງ, ທ່ານ ສາມາດເຫັນ ນໍ້າສີໝນ ຸ່ ຄໍ້າ ຂອງແມ່ນນໍ້າຂອງ ຄ່ອຍໆປ່ຽນສີ ແຈ້ງ ແລະ ໃສຂື້ນ ຂອງສີນໍ້າອູ. ຜາສູງຊັນ ແລະ ການລ້ຽງຊ້າງ ລຽບຕາມແຄມແມ່ນໍ້າໄດ້ເພີ່ມສີສນ ັ ແລະ ເປີດຕາຂອງທ່ານ ໃຫ້ ກ້ວາງຂື້ນ ສູ່ຄວາມງາມຂອງທຳມະຊາດໃນເຂດດັ່ງກ່າວ. ທ່ານອາດຈະໄດ້ເຫັນ ປາດຸກສີເຫຼືອງ ແລະ ປະຊາຊົນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ຫາກິນ ແລະ ທຳການຜະລິດ ຕາມລຳແມ່ນໍ້າ. ເນື່ອງຈາກວ່າ ປີໃໝ່ລາວ ຫາກໍ່ສິ້ນສຸດລົງ, ປະຊາຊົນ ມີຄວາມຫວັງວ່າ ຈະມີຝົນມາ, ແລະຈະຕ້ອງມີຝົນຕົກມາໃນບໍ່ຊ້າ. ເມື່ອພວກເຮົາມາຮອດ ໜອງຂຽວ, ເມືອງນ້ອຍໃນແຄມແມ່ນໍ້າອູ, ທ້ອງຟ້າເລີ່ມເປີດ ແລະ ສົ່ງຝົນມາ ສູ່ພື້ນດິນ. ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ ສຳພັດ ຄວາມສວຍງາມຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ຈາກເຮືອນ້ອຍ, ເຊິ່ງບັງຄັບ ໂດຍຄົນຂັບ ຄົນດຽວ. ທິວທັດທີ່ສວຍງາມທີ່ມະຫັດສະຈັນ ແລະ ມື້ທີ່ຜ່ອນຄາຍ ເຮັດໃຫ້ການ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວຕາມລຳ ແມ່ນໍ້າເປັນໜຶ່ງໃນສະເໜອີກຢ່າງໜຶ່ງຂອງການທ່ອງທ່ຽວທີ່ເຊື່ອງຊ້ອນຂອງລາວ. 56


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Map Of Laos 58















LAOO

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