Sabaidee - Lao lifestyle & travel magazine issue 23 by Sabaidee Magazine

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Director’ Note Greeting Readers! Happy New Year to all of our readers. I hope you had a good holiday and are now ready to explore more in 2015. We have a lot of stories to bring to you this year. This issue we start out with an exploration trip to Xaysomboun Province. Our cover story explores this mountainous area located in the central region of Lao PDR. Xaysomboun’s natural beauty is relatively untouched and even local Lao people may not have seen it yet. The area is also home to a number of Mong tribes. We were fortunate and got to experience some of their cultural traditions and activities. In our Sabaidee Guest feature, We got an opportunity to meet with the Governor of Xaysomboun, Mr. Sombath Yialiher. He explains more about the challenges they have with road access to the region and how they plan to overcome these growth obstacles. For our Travel Feature column, we take you across the border for a shopping trip in Thailand. We seek out the best places to shop and how to get the most out of your shopping experience. In our ASEAN Connect feature, we take you across the other border to Cambodia. We take you to experience the entertaining Phare Circus. Though this circus just started in 2013, it’s has gained wonderful popularity. And what’s more, it’s an activity that’s performed and run by

Please enjoy this issue. We have many more stories to bring you this year. So continue reading and exploring with us.

Phanhlakhone Syboonheung The Director

THIS ISSUE 1 Cover Issue 20 copy.pdf

2/1/15

23nd JANUARY 2015

2:45 PM

CMY

ON THE COVER

A trip into the heart of Laos, Xaysomboun Photo by Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

News & Event 10 14

What’s On What’s New

People 16

Sabaidee Guest - Xaysomboun Governor

Travel 24 28

Asean Connect - Cambodia Cover Story - Exploring Xaysomboun

Lifestyle 20 41 48

Shopping Bangkok Guide To – Wine EAT, DRINK, RELAX, SEE & DO, SLEEP listings

CONTRIBUTORS Gaid Phitthayakornsilp Gaid has been in the media industry since he graduated from Faculty of Art at Silpakorn University in Thailand in 1994. name movies, a screen writer for documentary programs and a columnist for a daily newspaper in Thailand. He is now a travel writer/photographer, a graphic designer, a translator, and travel editor for several publications.

Bruce Scott Canadian-born Bruce Scott has spent most of his professional career in the magazine publishing industry, including 3 years living and working in Nassau, Bahamas – where he began writing an illustrated blog about his exotic travel experiences. Since relocating to Thailand (in 2010) he has honed his skills as a travel writer and photographer, and currently resides in Bangkok, where he works as a journalist.

Anousone Vongphrachanh After spending most of his earlier years in the United States, Anousone Vongphrachanh decided to return to his native born country of Laos PDR. He is an outdoor person at heart. When he is not trekking or snowboarding, he is exploring for good food

Kristen Marano She’s a freelance communications consultant working with entrepreneurs and startups, as well as a regular contributor to Huffington Post Canada where she writes about style and travel.

WHERE WE ARE XAYABOURY

Home to the Land of Million Elephants’ highest pachyderm population. Each year in February creatures during the annual Elephant Festival.

LUANG PRABANG

Tranquil heritage-listed city boasting exquisite handicrafts, rich cultural sites steeped in history, a cosmopolitan bar scene and oodles of French colonial charm, all where the idyllic Nam Kahn and Mekong rivers meet. The perfect destination for the discerning traveller, the city is dotted with boutique hotels and spas.

SAVANNAKHET

Sitting on the banks of the Mekong, this growing city is the second-largest in Laos. The town centre houses ambient French Colonial architecture and small and friendly eateries are dotted along the riverfront. Just beyond the city

VANG VIENG

One-time party haven turned an outdoor enthusiasts dream, the small town is set to and lush forest. Nothing beats whiling a day away kayaking down the Nam Song river or taking a dip at the serene blue lagoon – utter relaxation in nature.

nearby Dong Natad Protected Area.

VIENTIANE

Increasingly modern bustling capital with a trailblazing dining scene that must be tasted to be believed. Here you’ll alongside Parisian-style boulangeries, glossy developments, a young emerging creative scene, and some of the country’s most lively marketplaces.

THAKHEK

A launching pad for the captivating Thakhek Loop. Throw your kit on a rented motorbike and set off on a 4-day journey to explore the hidden Buddha Cave, secluded water holes, tiny villages and, the main attraction, Kong Lor Cave which houses a snaking river system accessed only by motorboat.

PAKSE

The capital of the southern province of Champassak, Pakse is the gateway to the picturesque Bolaven Plateau which is home to an abundance of scenic waterfalls and motorcycle routes, and is widely regarded as producing some of the highest-quality coffee in the country.

WHO'S

ONLINE EDITION ALSO AVAILABLE AT:

HM For more information

LAO

All material appearing in Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission to the copyright holder. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the view of the publisher of the magazine. Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

WHAT'S ON

Dresden Lao Bar and Restaurant The Dresden Lao Bar and Restaurant has a long list of whiskies and liquors. The name could be misleading because it is restaurant from Tokyo. They have even sent their bartender to their new Vientiane restaurant. Happy hour 5-7pm Phone: 021 244 241, 020 5577 0391 Open Hours: 4:00 pm - 12:00 am

Naked Espresso, Kam Kong The name Naked Espresso has become common language among was open only a few years before. The new location offers an open space environment. There is a big table that seats 6-8 persons that could serve as an impromptu brainstorming meeting place. This new second location is located on the same street as Dairy Queen near the Chao Anou Park by Mekong river side. Phone: 21 454631, +856 (0)20 5622 2269 & +856 (0)20 5633 3369

A RETRO

ESCAPE BY THE RIVER Samut Songkram, Thailand

t helegendma ek l ong 1285, PATHUMMALAI ROAD, T. MAEKLONG, MUANG DISTRICT, SAMUT SONGKRAM 75000 RESERVATION:+66 (0) 3470 1121 E- MAIL : INFO@THELEGENDMAEKLONG.COM

www.thelegendmaeklong.com

WHAT'S ON

SCG Sharing the Dream 2014 SCG Sharing the Dream is one of youth development project in ASEAN as Lao PDR is one of AEC countries where SCG have business operation and realize on social responsibility and sustainable development. On special occasion of SCGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 100th year anniversary, we continue this program in its 3rd year of SCG Sharing the Dream project in Laos to support 200 high school students to the Dream Award recipients were selected from 893 applicants in Vientiane Capital and Khamouane province. Each scholarship is

WHAT'S NEW

LAOS & JAPAN SIGN AIR SERVICE AGREEMENT The governments of Lao PDR and Japan signed an Air Service Agreement in Vientiane Capital on January 16th. Only around 4,000 tourists visit Japan annually from both Laos and Cambodia, but the numbers are increasing, according to Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kyodo News. Japan began issuing multiple-entry visas good for a period of up to three years to citizens of Laos and Cambodia last November hoping to capitalize on the two nationsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; growth potential which is seen as the highest among ASEAN members.

Treasure Group Laos in Luang Prabang recently welcomed a new Chief Executive

and brings this good hotel management experience along. Treasure Group Laos businessman.

WHAT'S NEW

Riverside Boutique Resort Vang Vieng The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam Song

Ban Viengkeo, Vung Vieng, Vientiane Province, Lao PDR Phone: +856 (0) 23 511 726-8, Fax: +856 (0) 23 511 729 Email: info@riversidevangvieng.com www.riversidevungvieng.com

SABAIDEE GUEST

Words & Photos GAID PHITHAYAKORNSILP

DR. Sombath Yialiher, Governor of Xaysomboun Province 16

DR. Sombath Yialiher

Governor of Xaysomboun Province As the Governor of the newest province of Lao P.D.R., Dr. Sombath Yialiher, has his mission and a lot to do to urge development of his province to be equal to other areas of the country. Sabaidee Magazine recently interviewed him to get to know his mission and vision, especially on tourism. As the new province, in what way do you have to urge development for tourism?

Xaysomboun province is located in a remote area. Although there has been ongoing devel-

our local way of life, including homes, performing arts, music, and many other interesting activities.

The government recognized this and accelerated construction of roads to access the province. Actually, Xaysomboun is located right in the center of the country so is suitable to be the hub of transportation. For instance, you can travel from Xiangkhoang via Xaysomboun to Vientiane, and from Vientiane via Vang Vieng and Xaysombout to Xiangkhoang. At present, there are several roads under construction leading from Anouvong City to meet the Road 1D for 50 kilometers. The second road under construction is from Anouvong City to Long Cheng City, and the third road is from Anouvong City via Ban Ao and Muang Hom to Vientiane Capital. Also, we have already surveyed the route from Xaysomboun to Vang Vieng via Nam Ngum 2 and Nam Ngum 3 dams. Once the construction of these roads somboun will become the new hub for tourism and investment. Xaysomboun is the province of rich tourism resources and diversity such as nature, history, culture, tradition, ethnic way of life, and also located on the perfect terrain with good climate of 22 - 25 degree Celsius. What ideas do you have for promoting tourism in Xaysomboun? the future, which is to do anything that keeps Xaysomboun a safe and peaceful place to ists and provide them a chance to experience our cultures, way of life, our friendliness and stays to accommodate tourists. Recently, we discussed with representatives from two villages about the possibility of operating the homethat our people would obtain more income and be able to lift themselves out of poverty.

clean air to breathe, we also have organic food for them as well. This is a sustainable living that we would like to cultivate. When visiting Xaysomboun, you should taste our local cuisine, such as “kaiton toon ya mong” (Hmong's braised chicken in herbal soup), Kamu cuisine, and Lao Phuan cuisine.

to invite tourist to visit our Nam Ngum 2 Dam. an idea to set binoculars for visitors up there. When the weather is clear, you will be able to see the Mekong River in Vientiane Capital and Phonsavan in Xiangkhoang. Regarding hisindependence in their history at Long San and the opposition’s stronghold. All of these towns should be developed into tourist attractions in order to provide historical background of Laos for future generations to know. Are you going to announce a tourism campaign “Visit Xaysomboun Year 2015”? organize the local trade fair with various local products from each different town to be showcased. Last year on December 25, 2014, we made a trial trade show with some products from various towns, along with an ethnic fashion show by local models, cultural shows and performances from each town. One of the purposes we organize this event was to make a statement on the policy of tourism and investment, as well as the conditions to announce the tourism year for Xaysomboun. At the end, Dr. Sombath Yialiher, summarizes that he has strong intentions to develop Xaysomboun on every aspect. The economy should grow along with development of culture, society, and most importantly to educate tors for social development. Over and above that, every development should be concerned with environmental care and sustainability.

TRAVEL FEATURE Words & Photos Kristen Marano

Navigating Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Malls The night scene at Siam Paragon.

Shoppers relax outside Siam Paragon.

Shopping is a way of life for more than eight million Bangkokians, and visitors who indulge in Bangkok’s mall scene will be pleasantly surprised. While Western shopping is often limited to a quick trip for something new, shopping in this city is a day’s adventure. Malls are places for retreat, adventure, food and hangouts. I’ve shopped New York City and London, but I’ve never shopped like in Bangkok. I arrived in July for a three-week stay, and during this time my boyfriend Kavi and I practically lived in malls. But, we were never shopping. We were eating, writing and being entertained in several mega centres and community malls across the city. I stood inside the doors of Platinum Fashion Mall—a seven-story shopping centre divided the maze of vendors. Sequined wedge sandals popular among Bangkok women, a rainbow of string bikinis and wide-legged trousers were among the endless items luring shoppers. If Kavi didn’t operate like a compass, I’d be lost and buying clothes I don’t need.

A bathroom at Siam Centre.

up your arms with blouses in London’s Primark or wandering the discount stores of New York’s China town. It’s a budget mall that attracts foreigners, locals and wholesalers, who move between zones like they’re transiting duty free to stock up on trendy, cheap goods. A close companion, MBK is another large mall for cheap goods. discount electronics like e-readers and cameras to beauty products and purses.

From low-end to high-end choices

The Siam Centre food court.

A stop at Siam station on the Bangkok Transit System (BTS) reveals the sleek trio of Siam malls. The collection could be siblings true to their standing: Siam Paragon, the eldest and experienced, Siam Centre, the middle and growing, and Siam Discovery, the youngest and playful. Siam Paragon welcomes visitors through its diamond-shaped glass entrance and its food is as high-end as its shopping. Once inside Dolce and Gabbana and Prada boast lines like patrons waiting for the best Roman gelato on a hot day. When you need to rest your soles, enjoy macaron at the Mandarin Oriental Shop or sit and sip among the elegant local youth at Harrods Tea Room while they do their homework.

an outdoor auditorium to catch live acts or stretch your legs, while eating ice cream is made more enjoyable among lit-up palm trees and a trickling waterfall outside Siam Paragon. Neighbour Central World greets shoppers with a cool gush of scented air. The newly opened Groove Aspara, a polished indoor/outdoor enclave of restaurants appeals to wine-sipping youth at Wine I Love You, while Apinara Thai Cuisine and Bar serves traditional Thai dishes in a fancy setting. When youth aren’t sipping away they’re downing decadent desserts. Pancake Café offers stacks of nutella and chocolate ice cream pancakes

Shopping and Community After leaving Central World, we’d often walk out front and join locals at a plastic table and chair for a beer at 100 baht (USD $3) and bhuja, a collection of Indian beer nuts, watching vendors assemble side-byside stalls of jewelry, clothing, shoes and sunglasses, while an endless stream of city buses pick up locals and Thai grandmas cook spicy minced pork, omelets and pad thai. One afternoon, while enjoying coffee at Central World we looked to the

bathrobes and relaxed under dim lighting having foot massages. Bangkok’s endless plethora of shopping can turn adults into children in a candy store. You want everything and don’t know how to stop. But, if you adjust your perspective slightly, it’s like walking around your favourite neighbourhood – pop into a few stores, stop for a coffee, people watch, chat with locals, and come back the next day to do it again.

When to go Malls are busy day or night, weekend or weekday. Avoid morning commuters by taking the BTS in late morning to early afternoon. The

Where to go Discount shopping: MBK and Platinum Mall Affordable local and international shops: Central World, Siam Centre and Siam Discovery

A look inside MBK, a discount tourist mall.

High-end designers: Siam Paragon Tourist malls: Terminal 21, MBK and Asiatique Waterfront

How to get there motorbikes are also available. The Siam malls, Central World, Platinum Mall and MBK are accessible from Siam and Chitlom stations. Asiatique Waterfront is a walk fromSaphan Taksin station to a free ferry. The ferry runs every 30 minutes up until 11 p.m.Terminal 21 is at Asoke station and accessible from the skyway.

BREAKOUT –Food Court Dining Bangkok malls challenge the boring and bland food of traditional cafeterias with spicy green curries and tom yum soup and other Asian food courts operate on a cash card system allowing visitors to easily hop between vendors for entrees, desserts and drinks for a total of 100 – 150 baht (USD $3-$5).

ASEAN CONNECT

Words & Photos Bruce Scott

s u c r i C e r a Ph 24

Phare Circus Under The Big Top in Siem Reap While there’s plenty to see and do in Siem Reap and nearby Angkor Wat during the daylight hours, the options of evening activities are a bit fewer. However one of the more recent additions to the city’s growing nightlife has proven to be both quite popular and quite successful – ranking #4 on TripAdvisor – and this intriguing attraction is known as Phare, The Cambodian Circus. Like most circuses, Phare combines such elements as acrobatics, juggling, comedy, and music, but that’s where the similarities end. This circus – opened in 2013 – is also a social enterprise project that offers a public venue for students, and former students, from the Phare Ponleu Selpak Association (PPSA) mental association founded in 1994 by 8 ex-refugee Cambodian artists in nearby Battambang Province. The PPSA provides educational programs, as well as arts, music, theatre, and circus training, to disadvantaged youngsters, circus then offers the advanced students and graduates a place to hone their skills, and earn a decent wage besides – taking them out of the cycle of poverty, and giving them self-respect and freedom. What’s more, the performers entirely script their own shows, and these themed performances – which are more like hour-long plays – deal with topics ranging from ghosts, to teenage runaways and coping with handicaps. And although the subject matters can be somber, the performance of these energetic lads and lasses is 100% exuberant. It’s a moving experience watching these skilled showmen (and women), especially when you discover that many of them have escaped from serious cycles of abuse and exploitation. Young people from the streets, orphanages, and struggling families in the community, come to PPSA to learn, express, and heal themselves through the arts. The runaway success of the circus has led to a string of private performances at major 5-star hotels throughout the country, but the best place to catch the show is still the “Big Red Big Top”, which is located behind the Angkor National Museum, right in the heart of the town. The shows get underway at 7:30pm every evening, and the amphitheatre-style wooden bench seating area, capable of accommodating up to 350 spectators, is where the cast members make their entrances and exits – from above, below, and even through the audience. It’s a great evening out, and the shows rotate on a 10-12 day basis, so you can catch 2 entirely different shows if you’re in town long enough. In addition, the big top waiting area is equipped with a small outdoor bar and restaurant for guests who arrive early.

Phare, The Cambodian Circus Comaille Road, behind Angkor National Museum Siem Reap, Cambodia Tel: +855 15 499 480 E: ticketing@pharecambodiancircus.org www.pharecambodiancircus.org

SABAIDEE COVER

Words & Photos GAID PHITTHAYAKORNSILP

Xaysomboun A Trip into the Heart of Laos

Morning mountain fog in Anouvong town

Sunrise over Anouvong

The snaky road ahead of us was not so familiar like other roads in Lao P.D.R., not so smooth as well paved road and sometimes created sprinkle of red dusts all over the area when the trucks loaded with ores were driving past us. We were on the road heading to Xaysomboun, the 18th and the newest province of Lao P.D.R., which has been being developed on infrastructure for more convenient accessibility. In the past, Xaysomboun had been administered as the special zone before it P.D.R. on December 31, 2013. Located in the remote area of Lao's backcountry, Xaysomboun is being blocked by mountains as natural barriers, therefore transportation that settles in the heart of the country and being surrounded by the other provinces, is compared as the unspoiled â&#x20AC;&#x153;heartâ&#x20AC;? of a young girl that is waiting to shine her beauty during the blossom time. Unspoiled nature have become Xaysomboun's sales point for tourism despite the inconvenient transportation. For anyone who is fond of soft adventure will have fun exploring this province and fall in love easily.

Dan Phasap

Forest trail to Dan Phasap Waterfall

Longsan, the gateway to Xaysomboun stopover was Tad Pung

Dan Phasap, where a

The Mining Road give a concession to some private

Anouvong

Anouvong, the Capital of Xaysomboun

Nam Ngum 2 Lake

reservoir, apart from agricultural purpose, is also one of tourist attractions that offers various activities

Artifacts remaining from a previous war

Travel Back to the Past in Long Cheng

renovation to reopen as a historical San Phumok, warfare remain in the mountain area The small town of Long Cheng “The Most Secret Place on Earth”

Long Cheng Temple

Then, some pictures of Air America's

traces from the war still remain in Vang Pao's residence

now the lesson to learn for the next

“secret city”

old royal palace

we passed the border of the province, but good memory has never ends as those beautiful nature, historical stories, ethnic people's way of life, and sincere smiles of local people are still being shined in our mind evidently.

gives a concession to some private sectors such as

SABAIDEE GUIDE TO Words & Photos Anousone Vongphrachanh

Sabaidee's Guide To Sabaideeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to the very best things to see, do, eat and drink in the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s urban centres. This month we show you some wonderful places where you can enjoy a glass or bottle of wine. These locations we will glance. But they offer much more inside. We introduce you to the unseen culture inside. And we show you where to sip in the atmosphere and enjoy the culture outside. Please come join us now for a wine experience!

GREAT PLACES TO SIP WINE

Baravin Savor’s Club The Baravin is a family owned and operated wine shop. Most of his business is wholesale customers. The Baravin is a family owned and operated wine shop. Most of his business is wholesale customers. The owner, Mr. Ken Ea, keeps only a few tables in his shop. The few people who do come to sit and enjoy wine in the shop, he entertains his guests with a big smile. And he comes by with his glass to Santé with everyone. Ken is a true international host speaking seven languages. His customers range from ambassadors to bankers. And yet, it feels more like you are sitting at a friend’s guest room rather than a wine distributor. He lived in France for many years so naturally his shop specializes in a variety of French wines. 364 Thanon Samsenthai, Vientiane Lao PDR. Phone: +856-21-217-700, +856-20-2247-8115

Couleur d’Asie Art Gallery (CA) If you are looking for an eclectic experience, a colorful view with a twist of French colonial décor, CA is the place to be. It’s centrally located near Mekong river side across from Wat Mixay. A French restaurant, art gallery and custom clothing all combined in one location. Your eyes can wander from the modern artwork to the classic Indochinese style wood furniture to the colorful paper lanterns. The menu offers a low cost wine and charcuterie set that’s great for nibbling on while taking in the view. The street CA is located on is also popular with French expats and young European tourists. So there is also plenty of people watching to enjoy while sipping away. https://www.facebook.com/CouleurdAsie

AEnoteca A small shop front with a big selection of wines. All the walls are

Though it is not actually a wine bar, you can purchase a bottle of something new and sit at the counter. While sipping on your new found wine, Mr. Mateo, the sommelier is happy to share his extensive wine knowledge.

One of the owners is an Italian chef with two restaurants in Vientiane so they specialize in Italian wines. There are only a

If you want to splurge a bit more, there is cozy room in the back

of them at AEnoteca.

wines such as Gaja and Sassicaia. http://aenoteca.com/

Wine 95 Located in the bustling center of Vientiane near Namphou (water fountain), its chic interior design makes you feel as if you are in a different cosmopolitan city. You can choose to sit back on the outside by the sidewalk to watch tourists and people ofleather couch. Their wine list offers selections from around the world such as Australia, France and Chile. Catch their happy hours from 6-9pm. https://www.facebook.com/Wine95

Inthira Vang Vieng As you enter the Inthira Vang Vieng, you are welcomed by a water fountain and garden restaurant patio. The reception staff promptly greets you who is sitting next reception desk adjacent to the cocktail bar. It is a covered patio so you can sit in the shade and still have a good view of the sidewalk and street. But in Vang Vieng, the street usually serves as a walkway for tourist. You will see an eclectic group of tourists such as Koreans, European students, Chinese and local Lao. If you get hungry while sipping wine and people watching, you are in Deu Restaurant in Vientiane. http://www.inthira.com/

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EAT LISTING

VIENTIANE

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VIENTIANE

PAKSE

SAVANNAKHET

EAT LISTING

LUANG PRABANG

RELAX

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VIENTIANE

BAR

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VIENTIANE – Bar/Belgian. Located on the edge of the Mekong just before the Don Chan Palace hotel, April 12 has been designed to capitalise on its premiere

– Cocktail. A hip nightspot serving up some of the best cocktails in town and in trendy mason jars no less. Try their lychee or passionfruit spin on the classic mojito

tables are kept separate from each other with walls of serves cocktails, wine and a few varieties of beer. The

| Suite21 Cocktail Bar and Lounge |

range of imported beer including the ever-elusive Corona chilled to perfection and done right with a wedge of

seasoned expats and backpackers all who vie for a prime position along the balcony to watch the sunset over the

include some foreign and Lao items. Fa Ngum Road, opposite the Don Chan Palace hotel, 020 7798 5444.

comes things tend to kick up a notch with parties hitting

– Bar/Western/Lao.

– Bar/Lao/Western. An inviting meeting point with a sprawling terrace looking

time expat institution drawing big crowds for their The bartenders make a mean Tom Yum Martini which,

paired with tasty Lao bar snacks. It’s located on a quiet stretch of the waterfront which makes for a peaceful breakfast or afternoon drink before it busies up in the

– Bar. Brick exudes effortless cool. The friendly staff make a mean cocktail and can usually make a recommendation from the extensive menu and the wine list is well-edited.

– Wine/Tapas Modern and casual this intimate bar combines an excellent drop

Sports Bar.

–

– Casual and relaxed open-air sports bar

– Bar.

Bar/Belgian.

this rooftop terrace enjoys one of the most picturesque | The Spirit House | a low-key afternoon or evening of drinks and dinner. Ban

Wine.

Whether you’re after a full-bodied

– Bar/Lao/Western. Kop Chai Deu have hit the nail on the head with their slogan ‘the Asian.

–

Bar/

open air deck jutting right out to the Mekong River.

drop in every glass. A staircase leads to an intimate upstairs space with elegant lounges and objects d’art. food and nightly live music. Try to nab a spot on the upper level decking to enjoy the sultry Lao evenings. Free

evening under the stars and colourful lanterns on the terrace nibbling on some of the selection of Lao and

letangor.comkongview.com.

– Bar/Western/Lao. This

letangor.com.

BAR

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LUANG PRABANG – Café. Sitting pretty on the main street of tranquil Luang Prabang this elegant café-cum-restaurant combines the home-grown ingredients and cuisine of sister bistro L’Éléphant Restaurant with lighter café-style fare including a selection of delectable pastries. Free Wi-Fi. Sakarine Road, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

PAKSE

– Lao/Café. Housed in the grounds of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre this intimate eatery offers a range of dishes from northern Lao ethnic minorities, making it the perfect stop after immersing yourself in Lao culture next door. Located at the base of Phou Si Hill patrons will enjoy a unique vantage point of this distinctive attraction. Free Wi-Fi. Ban Khamyong, le_patio@elephant-restau. com, elephant-restau.com/lepatiocafe.html. Open 7 days 9am – 5pm.

| The Silk Road Café |

– Café. A Lao legacy, the well-known Sinouk Coffee empire has grown from its humble beginnings as a small plantation in the 1990s to a 50 hectare estate and is turning heads across Asia. Pakse’s Sinouk Coffee and Bakery outpost serves up delicious cups of Sinouk’s signature organic blend which comes direct from the farm in Paksong to the table. Free Wi-Fi. Pakse centre, near the Tourism

– Lao. Bringing an east meets west philosophy to the kitchen the Silk Road Café from cuisines the silk road passed through. Set against a backdrop of the Mekong River this open-air café is housed on the grounds of the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre making it the perfect spot to grab coffee and a bite after an on-site weaving workshop or demonstration. Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, Ban Saylom, 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 7 days 8am – 5pm.

SAVANNAKHET – Café/Western. Drawing crowds for great European fare, impressive décor and charming atmosphere, Café Chez Boune is a popular spot for dining out in Savannakhet. Opt for something light such as a tasty bruschetta or baguette or if you’re looking for something more substantial the seared duck breast or tender imported steaks are a good choice. Chaimeuang Road, Xayaphoum Village, 041 215 190, cafechezboune.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

| Sinouk Coffee and Bakery |

SEE & DO

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VIENTIANE – Museum. Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, or COPE, rehabilitation services for Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) The Visitor Centre houses a free exhibition about UXO

– Class/Craft. The Centre provides training and employment for disadvantaged Lao women in the areas of natural dyeing, weaving, tailoring and administration. Visitors can tour the facilities and take part in dyeing and weaving classes creating a unique textile to take home, the cost of which includes transfers, lunch and provides direct support to the Centre. The gift shop sells stylish products made on-site by staff and trainees. Lane 19, Houey Hong Village, 021 560 006, Mon-Sat 8.30am–12pm, 1.30pm–4.30pm, www.houeyhongcentre.com.

– Gallery. A bright and inviting gallery space featuring a revolving programme of engaging exhibitions from local artists working in a range of mediums. A collection of original prints, art books, photography, paintings and handmade cards are permanently for sale in the gallery space and past installations and events have included visual art, music,

– Tour. The perfect way to get back to nature while staying close to your base in Vientiane, Green Discovery Laos takes you to the Nam Ngum Resevoir. En route on this Hmong village life to meet locals and visit the market before taking in the 11th century archaeological site restaurant and explore hing villages and small islands by boat before returning to Vientiane. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

– Tour. Local tour guides Tuk Tuk Safari specialise in small group educational and interactive tours of Vientiane and surrounds. On this tour patrons will visit the Panyanivej Eco Rice and Fish Farm to have a hand at traditional using fresh farm ingredients to cook a traditional Lao lunch. 020 5433 3089, tours run daytime from Monday to Saturday, www.tuktuksafari.com.

Ban Simeuang, 020 7783 9674, Mon-Fri 6pm–8pm, Sat-Sun 1pm-6pm, www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

– Activity. A friendly place for a game of ten pin by day this unassuming

| i:cat gallery | | Lao Disabled Women's Development Centre |

here once the regular haunts close. Get here in the early evening if you actually plan to get in a few rounds because by eight o’clock this joint is packed with locals having a laugh over Beerlao and interesting bowling techniques. But bor pen nyang, half the fun is kicking back with friends and waiting for a free lane. There are also snooker tables available for hire. Boulevard Khunbulom (near the National Stadium), 9am–late, 7 days.

– Tour/Craft. A local non-pro t run by women with disabilities for women with disabilities. In a beautiful setting near the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge the Centre is a hive of activity with training programmes including sewing and needlework, social development and women’s civil rights. Visitors can tour the centre, buy locally-made handicrafts including accessories, fashion items and homewares and learn how they are made. Thadeua Road, Hadsayfong District, 021 812282, 8.30am–5pm, 7 days, www.laodisabledwomen. com.

– Class/Tour. Join friendly host Nook as she teaches you to cook popular Lao dishes with fresh ingredients and traditional methods. These fun and interactive classes are held in a leafy garden kitchen by the Mekong River, the perfect setting to throw together a tasty laap or mok pa (banana leaf steamed additional tour of the largest fresh market in Vientiane is great for those new to Lao ingredients. Bookings at The Full Moon Café or via lao-experiences.com, 020 5569 9429. Classes and Market Tours conducted daily.

– Tour. Explore Vientiane on two wheels in either a guided half or full-day tour allowing you to uncover a different side to the city. You’ll follow the gentle curve of the Mekong River to explore temples. Back in the city centre you’ll pass touristic highlights like glittering temples, the grand Presidential Palace, Patuxai and That Luang while also venturing off the beaten path to capture scenes of Lao daily life in sleepy residential areas. 020 5581 2337, Tours run daily 8am to 5pm, www.vientianebycycle.com.

| Lao Experiences Cooking Class and Food Tours |

SEE & DO

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Class/Craft. Take part in a fun hands-on workshop

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and learn traditional weaving and dying techniques from skilled Lao artisans at this handicrafts centre set in lush tropical gardens overlooking the Mekong River. A variety of classes suitable for a range of skill levels are on offer or you could visit the weaving centre for a free tour and observe weavers at their craft. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi Market), 071 212 597, 9am–5pm, 7 days, www.ockpoptok.com.

| Tamaring Cooking | | Ock Pop Tok |

TAMARIND COOKING SCHOOL – Class. This popular cooking class, run by the restaurant of the same name, has been schooling students in out ingredients at a local fresh market then head to Tamarind’s lake-side cooking school to cook and, more importantly, eat. The menu consists of a range of Lao classics including jeow spicy dipping sauces and Tamarind’s signature chicken and herb-stuffed lemongrass. To book and for more information visit tamarindlaos.com. Full day classes Mon-Sat 9am–3pm, evening classes Mon-Fri 4pm–8.30pm.

– Tour. Explore Southern Laos’ renowned coffee country and see just how beans make it into your morning cup of Joe. You will visit

| Sinouk Coffee Resort |

arabica growing, picked, then learn about the husking and drying processes. After lunch you’ll get hands-on in roasting arabica For more information visit paksong.info/laos_coffee_workshop. php, 020 2276 0439, coffee@paksong.info.

– Garden. A must-see if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, Sinouk is a name synonymous with coffee in Laos. Surrounding the resort are palatial landscaped gardens which include coffee plants, rock gardens, a lake and waterfalls. Visitors can enjoy a signature locally grown cup of coffee from Sinouk’s nearby plantation in the pavilion restaurant or cafe. For more information visit sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

– Tour. Green Discovery Laos lead an unforgettable adventure in an unparalleled South East Asian mountain forest setting of Champassak province. This tour is not for the faint-hearted with zip-lining over gorges and waterfalls and breathtaking views from a canopy walkway leading to great fun in a stunning environment. Retire to the Jungle Hotel Paksong a cluster of private treehouses set amongst the lush forest. The ultimate experience in nature. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

SHOP

| Carol Cassidy Textiles |

Superbly crafted, resplendent jewellery made from wood, coconut and silver can be bought here. Other contemporary and more traditional items can also be purchased. 550/01 Thatluang Tai Village, Saysettha District, 020 5542 6993, 9.30am-5.30pm.

Drawing hordes of tourists and locals to the riverside each evening you simply can’t miss the two rows of red-topped marquees along the waterfront mingling with smoky food stalls and mountainous balloon displays. The wares on sale may be aimed predominately towards tourists (think t-shirts, trinkets and Buddhist inspired art) but locals shop here too and there are plenty of bargains to be had. Mekong riverfront, Fa Ngum Road, Sunset-9pm, 7 days.

A treasure trove of handmade handicrafts created by over

textiles, exquisite homewares and contemporary jewellery with most goods crafted from natural dyes, local bamboo and organically grown cotton and proceeds going back to the artist. 97/1 Chao Anou Road, Mon-Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 1pm–8pm, www. saobancrafts.com.

A delightful gallery and crafts store featuring works from local and visiting artists and producing and selling the Les Artisans Lao range of organic skincare and beauty products. The range includes luscious body creams and soaps, all-natural repellents and aromatic oils. Vat Inpeng Street, 021 223 178, Mon-Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 10am–6pm, www.artisanslao.com.

SHOP

| Ma Te Sai |

A boutique shop with shelves of original souvenirs and handicrafts. The store seeks to help local people by working with them to sell their products and improve their livelihoods. Many of the souvenirs are made from recycled paper, bamboo and other natural materials. Sisangvong Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 071 260 654, 8am-9pm, www.matesai.com

Down the length of Sisavangvong Rd is the city’s famous Night Market. Weave under awnings to admire handicrafts such as rosewood carvings and silver jewellery, alongside herbal teas, rice paper diaries and beautiful linen dresses. It’s a friendly market and bargains are to be had. Sisangvong Road, 5pm-11pm, 7 days (weather dependent).

A shop with a difference. Ock Pop Tok seeks to empower local women by developing their artistic skills and sells their items. Woven textiles, bags and scarves are on offer, while they also run classes for visitors who want to try their hand at production or just admire artisans at work. The group also has a Sene, 071 253 219, 8am-9pm, www.ockpoptok.com.

A small distance away from the centre of town lies Phosi Market. This space sees every smell, sound and sight stake a corner as meat, spices, fresh vegetables, and fruits live side by side with those selling phones, watches and house wares. If you’re after a glimpse of local life, don’t miss this. Photisalath Road, south of Phou Vao Rd, 7am-5pm.

This is a non-pro self-help project that supports village women by providing a space for them to sell their goods to a wider audience. Handmade products show off traditional patterns and craft techniques and make excellent mementos or gifts. Ounkham Road, Ban Wath Nong, Luang Prabang, 071 254594, www.camacrafts.org.

All products in here are handmade from wood or silk and wholly produced in Laos, overseen by the shop’s Canadian owner. There are wooden bowls, bed spreads, Buddha heads and cushions to catch the customer’s eye. Sakkarine Road, 071 254574, 9am-9pm, www.carusolao.com.

| Passa Paa |

Although better known as a museum, the centre also supports over 500 handicraft producers from across Laos. They sell beaded necklaces, belts, backpacks, jewellery and lots of other items that showcase the enormous ethnic diversity of Laos. Kitsalat Road, Ban Khamyong, 071 253 364, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm, www. taeclaos.org.

This quaint book café lies close to the Nam Khan River and sells secondhand books. It’s well-stocked and has novels in many and regional history. Over 70 varieties of tea are for sale upstairs. Phousi Road, Ban Aphay, 071 212 880, Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 10am-10pm.

The culmination of British and Lao creative minds, this store is the shopfront for the textile and accessories label of the same name. The label explores the language of desing that has evolved in Laos to re-think, re-interpret, and re-construct patterns, symbols and forms into contemporary bags, scarves, purses and more. 79 Ban Vat Sene, 020 5541 1244, 7 days 8am-8pm, www.passa-paa.com.

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| Green Park Boutique Hotel | – Boutique. Each of the 34 rooms at this exquisite hotel pairs

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architecture. The elegance of the interiors, both historic and modern, matched with the lush garden setting create a sophisticated blend of style, luxury

– Top end. The grand façade of the Salana Boutique Hotel embodies sophistication and inside guests can escape the hustle and bustle and experience premier Lao hospitality.

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boutique.

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the ample rooms feature luxurious bedding and are

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been restored to its former imperial glory capturing an era elegant touches like four-poster beds with down feather

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Situated behind the iconic

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heart of Vientiane, iHouse is the perfect option for those who want to stay where the action is without the usual city centre price tag. Tidy, colourful rooms come in a

| Ansara Hotel |

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| Salana Boutique Hotel |

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www.setthapalace.com E-mail: reservations@setthapalace.com 6 Pang Kham Street, Vientiane, Lao PDR A Belmont International Hotel

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Listing | Villa Maly Hotel |

– Mid range/ Boutique. Nestled on the banks of the Mekong River,

award-winning textile centre Ock Tok Pop have created a truly relaxing and unique stay in a tropical paradise. Each of the four rooms combines contemporary design with colourful tribe motifs and the two Mekong facing rooms offer unrivalled views of the river. A free shuttle service will take you into town. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi market), 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 24 hours.

– Top end. A residence of charm, 33 art deco-inspired rooms are housed in seven low-rise buildings on this sprawling estate, just a short walk from the historic heart of the city. Each room is furnished with a blend of French and British colonial touches including classic adornments like hardwood and garden views has the feel of staying in a private villa. Free WiFi, spa, pool. BP 158, 071 253 902, villa-maly. com. Open 24 hours.

– Boutique. An intimate and charming boutique hotel situated on Luang Prabang’s main street across three heritage UNESCO-protected buildings. Each of the 15 rooms embodies simple and offer king and twin beds and you can opt for exclusive airport transfers and city tours in one of two immaculate vintage cars. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, 3-nagas.com. Open 24 hours.

– Boutique. Located in the heart of the city, Satri House was built at the turn of the last century as the residence of Price Soupha-nouvong. It has been restored to its original elegance and is now renowned as one of the most exquisite structures in the city. Superior crafted wood furnishings are an ambient addition to each of the 31 rooms which feature generous balconies that look onto the manicured grounds. Free WiFi, pool, spa. 57 Photisarath Road, Ban Thatluang, 071 253 491, satrihouse.com. Open 24 hours.

– Boutique. A truly beautiful experience in Luang Prabang, The Apsara cultivates a sense of effortless elegance from the banks of the Nam Khan. Colonial charm meets luxe cool in each of the spacious bedrooms with crisp linens, traditional silks, quirky objects d’art with balconies and terraces overlooking the river. If you’re looking to spend your holiday poolside the equally captivating sister hotel The Apsara Rive Droite is just across the river. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Phanluang, 071 254 252, theapsara.com. Open 24 hours.

– Top end. Just a 15 minute stroll from old Luang Prabang but from Le Sen’s lush secluded gardens the city centre will feel a world away. Polished stone and neutral palettes create a slick yet soothing contemporary ambience to the 19 spacious rooms, each of which come with private balconies that overlook a central swimming pool. Free

– Top end/ Boutique. A tropical oasis nestled on the banks of the

– Mid range. A beautiful Lao-style villa located in the heart of Vang Vieng – just steps away from all of the local highlights. The 28 well-appointed rooms come in a range of configurations to suit everyone from the comfort-seeker to the budget-conscious traveller. An airy rooftop terrace, complete with sun lounges, is the perfect spot to admire the surrounding ancient limestone mountain vistas. On-site eatery ‘The Kitchen’ serves up hearty local and international fare. Free WiFi. Ban Savang, 023 511 070, inthira.com.

– Boutique. Set along the Nam Song River, complete with breathtaking views of Vang Vieng’s majestic natural surrounds is The Elephant Crossing Hotel. A charming getaway, this hotel offers guests 31 rooms, all designed with comfort, elegance and convenience in mind. In addition to classic hardwood

Nam Song River, Riverside Boutique Resort is a stylishly modern haven in Vang Vieng. Each of the 34 spacious suites are elegantly furnished with artworks and decors inspired by several ethnic groups of Laos, pairing perfectly with contemporary comforts like luxurious bedding and high-end amenities. The pristine swimming pool and the in-house restaurant and bar take in unparalleled views of the river and its sweeping mountainscapes. Gift shop, pool. Ban Viengkeo, 023 511 726-8, riversidevangvieng. com.

| Riverside Boutique Resort |

Manomai Road, Ban Mano, 071 261 668, lesenhotel. com. Open 24 hours.

a generous private balcony which looks directly onto the river and mountains. Ban Viengkeo, 023 511 232, theelephantcrossinghotel.com.

– Mid range. A small cluster of charming bungalows on the site of a former coffee and tea plantation just outside of Paksong. A perfect spot for rest and relaxation if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, the resort offers spotless private villas with helpful staff who can guide you on what to see, do and eat in the area. The restaurant serves traditional Lao fare made from fresh local ingredients. 020 2866 2809, waterfalletupaksong.com.

– Mid range. The first multistorey building constructed under the supervision of the last King of Southern Laos, this hotel was originally the entertainment hub of Pakse housing a casino and cinema. Now owned and run by a French-Lao couple the hotel blends local Street 5, Ban Watkouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.com. Open 24 hours.

– Mid range. Two chalets nestled amongst of the famous Sinouk Coffee plantation and manicured gardens. Guests have the choice to stay alongside a bubbling river and small waterfall | Sinouk Coffee Resort |

spotless private ensuite bedrooms and a shared lounge and living room and terrace but it’s so peaceful here you’d barely know you had any neighbours. Tatheng – Bolaven Plateau, sinouk@laopdr.com, sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

– Mid range. Housed in a renovated 1920s colonial building Sala Savanh sits pretty in the heart of Savannakhet historical centre. Five superior rooms are neat and tidy with high ceilings, vintage-look cane furniture and spacious balconies on laotel.com, salalao.com/Salalao/Content/Savanh.htm.

– Mid range. A friendly option if you’re passing through Savannakhet, Leena’s is a little off the main drag but you can rent a bike for a quick ride. There’s a variety of tidy rooms on offer for different price ranges so ask to take a look at what’s available to service is super friendly so they will be happy to help. Close to a number of cheap eats, internet cafes and the

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MAP OF VIENTIANE

As the nation's capital, Vientiane is a must-experience city when traveling through Laos. Vientiane became the capital in 1563 because of fears surrounding Burmese invasion. Under French rule, it became the administrative capital and in recent times the city has emerged as the country's economic hub. Sitting on the northern banks of the Mekong river, the city has a colourful culture, amazing hospitality and is home to an enviable local and international dining scene. With its French colonial characteristics and leafy boulevards surrounded by rustic temples and coconut palms, this is a city that mixes colonial architecture with a tropical environment. The laidback atmosphere is ideal for visitors, and it is rapidly becoming one of the most fascinating cities to see in Asia.

A Stylish Budget Accommodation Option in Luang Prabang

The Ultimate Relaxation Hideaway FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT: 125 Unit 7, Bane Vixoun, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: +856 (0) 71 212 642, +856 (0) 71 252 933 www.tropicaloasispark.com