Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine issue 18

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Greetings readers! We hope you enjoyed Sabaidee Magazine Issue #17 released in June, and you’re enjoying your summer break – perhaps even at one of the boutique accommodations we highlighted last issue! Excitingly, this issue of Sabaidee Magazine marks the first of our 'special edition' issues. We have themed Issue #18 our ‘After Dark Special’ and within these pages we’ve tried to uncover some of the most interesting, innovative and entertaining post-sunset activities for your enjoyment. In our Sabaidee Cover feature we explore Vientiane’s emerging cocktail culture, and we had the pleasure of sampling some of the best concoctions the city’s intimate small bars have to offer. We also venture into the wild at the Nam Nern Night Safari, and explore how this after dark tourism programme is working to protect the widely-hunted Indo-Chinese tiger, and other wildlife native to the Nam Et - Phou Louey National Protected Area. Also in this issue, we spend the perfect evening in Luang Prabang, dish up the details on Vientiane’s best dessert spots guaranteed to satisfy any late-night sugar cravings, and chat with Laos’ first female feature film director about her home in Vientiane. Remember, Sabaidee Magazine is a monthly publication, and you can find us in your favourite cafes, restaurants, hotels and spas from the 15th of each month. We’d love to hear your feedback about our magazine, so if you have any comments, suggestions, or are an organisation or business that would like to be included in ‘The Good Guide’ or our ‘What’s New’ and ‘What’s On’ listings, please email our editor on editor@ sabaidee-magazine.com. Sok dee!

Phanhlakhone Syboonheung The Director

Note DIRECTOR'S

ສະບາຍດີ ບັນດາຜູ້ອ່ານ!

ພວກເຮົາຫວັງວ່າ ທ່ານຄົງມີຄວາມສຸກກັບການພັກແລ້ງຂອງທ່ານ ບາງເທື່ອທ່ານອາດພັກຢູ່ໃນບ່ອນໜຶ່ງຂອງທີ່ພັກບູຕິກ ທີ່ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ແນະນໍາໄປໃນສະບັບທີ່ຜ່ານມາ! ວາລະສານ “ສະບາຍດີ ” ສະບັບ ນີ້ ເປັ ນ ນຳ�ສະເໜອຫົວ ຂໍ້ “ພາຍຫຼັງ ຄໍ່າຄ້ອ ຍຍາມແລງພິ ເ ສດ” ແລະ ໃນໜ້າ ນີ້ ພວກເຮົ າ ໄດ້ພ ະຍາຍາມຄົ້ນ ຫາກິ ດ ຈະກໍາ ພາຍຫຼັງຕາເວັນຫຼັບຂອບຟ້າ ທີ່ມີຄວາມບັນເທີງ ສ້າງສັນ ແລະ ໜ້າສົນໃຈທີ່ສຸດ ມາສະເໜີ ເພື່ອຄວາມສໍາລານຂອງທ່ານ. ໃນບົດ ໜ້າ ປົກ ຂອງວາລະສານ “ສະບາຍດີ ” ໄດ້ຄົ້ນ ຫາຮ້າ ນຄ໋ອ ກເທວທີ່ສ້າ ງສັນ ຂອງຕົວ ເມື ອ ງວຽງຈັນ ແລະມີ ຄ ວາມສຸ ກ ກັບ ບາງການປະສົມ ປະສານທີ່ລົງ ຕົວ ທີ່ ສຸດ ໃນການໃຫ້ບໍລິການ ຂອງ ບັນດາ ບານ້ອຍ ທີ່ຢູ່ໄກ້ຄຽງ ພວກເຮົາຍັງໄດ້ຜະຈົນໄພເຂົ້າໄປໃນປ່າເລິກ ທີ່ໂຄງການ ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວປ່າໃນເວລາກາງຄືນທີ່ນໍ້າເນີນ ແລະ ໄດ້ຮ ຽນຮູ້ວ່າ ໂຄງການການທ່ອງທ່ຽ ວຍາມຄໍ່ານີ້ ໄດ້ຊ່ວ ຍປົກ ປ້ອ ງ ເສື ອ ອິ ນ ໂດຈີ ນ ທີ່ຖື ກ ລ່າ ຢ່າ ງກວ້າ ງຂວາງ ແນວໃດ ແລະ ແນວພັນ ສັດ ປ່າ ພື້ນ ເມື ອ ງຊະນິ ດ ອື່ນ ໆອີ ກ ທີ່ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດນໍ້າແອັດ-ພູເລີຍ. ພ ວ ກ ເ ຮົ າ ຍັງ ໄ ດ້ຄົ້ນ ຫ າ ກ າ ນ ໃ ຊ້ເ ວ ລ າ ຍ າ ມ ແ ລ ງ ທີ່ິພິ ເ ສ ດ ທີ່ຫຼ ວ ງ ພ ຣ ະ ບ າ ງ ຄົ້ນ ຫ າ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ຫວ າ ນ ຈ າ ນ ແ ຊ ບ ຂ ອ ງ ເ ມື ອ ງ ວ ຽ ງ ຈັນ ທີ່ຮັບ ປ ະ ກັນ ຖື ກ ໃ ຈ ຜູ້ທີ່ມັກອາຫານຫວານໃນຕອນເດິກ ແລະ ໄດ້ໂອ້ລົມກັບຜູ້ສ້າງຮູບເງົາເລື່ອງ ທີ່ເປັນແມ່ຍິງຄົນທຳ�ອິດຂອງປະເທດລາວ ທີ່ຈະມາເລົ່າກ່ຽວກັບບ້ານເກີດຂອງຕົນໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ທ່ານສາມາດຫາອ່ານ ວາລະສານ “ສະບາຍດີ” ໄດ້ທີ່ ຮ້ານກາເຟ ຮ້ານອາຫານ ໂຮງແຮມ ແລະ ສະປາ ທີ່ທ່ານມັກ ພວກເຮົາຍິນດີທີ່ຈະຮັບຟັງຄວາມຄິດເຫັນຂອງທ່ານ ກ່ຽວກັບວາລະສານ ຂອງພວກເຮົາ ດັ່ງນັ້ນຖ້າທ່ານມີຂໍ້ຄິດເຫັນ ຄໍາແນະນໍາ ຫຼື ທຸລະກິດທີ່ຕ້ອງການໃຫ້ ພວກເຮົາ ລົງສະເໜີ ໃນໜ້າ “The Good Guide” ຫຼື ‘What’s New’ ແລະ ‘What’s On’ ກະລຸນາສົ່ງອີເມວເຖິງ ບັນນາທິການຂອງພວກເຮົາໄດ້ທີ່: editor@sabaidee-magazine.com. ຂໍໃຫ້ທຸກທ່ານໂຊກດີ!

ພັນລ ​ ະຄອນ ສີບ ​ ຸນເ​ ຮືອງ ຜອຳ�ນວຍການ ູ 4



THIS ISSUE

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ON THE COVER Cocktail Hour: Sampling the Capital's Most Indulgent Drops

JULY 2014

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photo Nadine Dayag

News & Events 10 14

What's On What's New

Travel 22 26

Spotlight On: A Perfect Evening in Luang Prabang Further Afield: Like a tiger in the torchlight - How the Nam Nern Night Safari fights poaching with tourism

Lifestyle 20 32 39 40

My City: My Vientiane Sabaidee Cover: Cocktail Hour - Sampling the Capital’s Most Indulgent Drops The Good Guide: EAT, DRINK, RELAX, SHOP, SEE & DO, SLEEP listings Sabaidee’s Guide To: Sweet Tooth - Vientiane’s Best After-Dinner Treats

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CONTRIBUTORS HANNAH MCDONALD-MONIZ Hannah has been living in Laos and traveling extensively in the region since 2010. She tries to connect with each location she visits through the lens of her camera, and works as a freelance media consultant. Her other passions include language learning and trying new foods. See her blog, photography, and videos on her website www.seethinkexplore.com.

Australian-born journalist turned art gallery manager and creative programmer, Kate relocated to Laos last year. Now living in Vientiane she has fallen for Laos’ exquisite traditional art, laid back lifestyle, street food and beer with ice. Always on the lookout for the cool and interesting she is attempting to uncover the best local eats, drinks and hidden gems.

JAMES ELTON-PYM

SHAYLING NGO

On the cusp of finishing his journalism degree in Sydney, Australia, James decided to put off the inevitable and instead move to Laos, despite being too tall to fit through any of the country’s doorways, to work as a subeditor for the Vientiane Times newspaper. James helped with coverage of the 2013 Australian election for News Corporation and was the host of a local current affairs programme on a Sydney community station. He likes to write stories about little individuals that create big changes, especially in the environment.

A recent journalism graduate from Australia, Shayling relocated to Vientiane in order to pursue her dreams of writing and travelling. Intrigued by Southeast Asian cultures she hopes to share her adventures and experiences with the world, one word at a time.

JUSTIN LANCY Justin Lancy is an American writer and technologist. On TravelerTech.com and Veritope.com, he examines how technology, global culture, and travel impact the lives of ordinary people in extraordinary ways. When not in an airport, he lives in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

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KATE ANTONAS

NADINE DAYAG With a specialised background in events photography Nadine has utilised her extensive industry experience in photographic projects around Australia and Asia. Originally hailing from North Queensland, Australia, and now based in Vientiane, she welcomes opportunities to share the beauty, culture and excitement of Laos through photojournalism.



WHERE WE ARE XAYABOURY

Home to the Land of Million Elephants’ highest pachyderm population. Each year in February Laotians and travellers flock here to pay their respects to these magnificent endangered creatures during the annual Elephant Festival.

LUANG PRABANG

Tranquil heritage-listed city boasting exquisite handicrafts, rich cultural sites steeped in history, a cosmopolitan bar scene and oodles of French colonial charm, all where the idyllic Nam Kahn and Mekong rivers meet. The perfect destination for the discerning traveller, the city is dotted with boutique hotels and spas.

SAVANNAKHET

Sitting on the banks of the Mekong, this growing city is the second-largest in Laos. The town centre houses ambient French Colonial architecture and small and friendly eateries are dotted along the riverfront. Just beyond the city you’ll find excellent trekking routes through the nearby Dong Natad Protected Area.

VANG VIENG

One-time party haven turned an outdoor enthusiasts dream, the small town is set to a backdrop of magnificent limestone karsts and lush forest. Nothing beats whiling a day away kayaking down the Nam Song river or taking a dip at the serene blue lagoon – utter relaxation in nature.

VIENTIANE

Increasingly modern bustling capital with a trailblazing dining scene that must be tasted to be believed. Here you’ll find intricately adorned temples sitting alongside Parisian-style boulangeries, glossy developments, a young emerging creative scene, and some of the country’s most lively marketplaces.

THAKHEK

A launching pad for the captivating Thakhek Loop. Throw your kit on a rented motorbike and set off on a 4-day journey to explore the hidden Buddha Cave, secluded water holes, tiny villages and, the main attraction, Kong Lor Cave which houses a snaking river system accessed only by motorboat.

PAKSE

The capital of the southern province of Champassak, Pakse is the gateway to the picturesque Bolaven Plateau which is home to an abundance of scenic waterfalls and motorcycle routes, and is widely regarded as producing some of the highest-quality coffee in the country.

WHO'S

[ ຄະນະທີປ ່ ກ ຶ ສາ / Consultants ] ພັດທະລະພົງ ຄົງວິຈດ ິ Pattarapong Kongvijit / ວິສດ ິ ເຊົາວະລິດຕານົນ Wisith Chawalitanon / ມານະໄຊ ອິນແກ້ວ Manachai Inkaew / ສົມໃຈ ພິມຜາສຸກ Somjai Pimpasouk [ ຜູອ  ຳນວຍການ / Director ] ພັນລະຄອນ ສີບນ ຸ ເຮືອງ Phanhlakhone Syboonheung [ ບັນນາທິການອຳນວຍການ / Editorial Director ] ເກດ ພິດທະຢາກອນສິນ Gaid Kornsilapa [ ບັນນາທິການບໍລຫ ິ ານ / Editor in Chief ] ຄຳສວນ ຈັນທະລາດ Khamsouan Chanthalat [ ບັນນາທິການ ພາສາອັງກິດ / English Editor ] ເຄັດ ແອນໂທນາສ Kate Antonas [ ບັນນາທິການອອນລາຍ / Online Editor ] ຂະນິດຖາ ອັດຕະເມດ Kanittha Attamate [ ຜູອ  ຳນວຍການຝາຍຂາຍ / Sales & Marketing Director ] ຊະຍາດາ ອະລິຍະພົນຈະເລີນ Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen [ ຝ່າຍຂາຍແລະການຕະຫຼາດ / Sales & Marketing ] ສຸກສະຫວັນ ທຸລະຈັນ Souksavanh Thoulachan [ ປະສານງານການຕະຫຼາດ / Marketing Co-ordinator ] ບຸນລອດ ສິດທິພົງ Bounlod Sittiphong [ ທີມງານຂ່າວ / Reporter ] ເທບພະວົງສອນ ບົວພາ Thepphavongsone Bouapha [ ຈັດໜາ ແລະ ອອກແບບ / Layout Design ] ນັດນະລີ ມາທອງ Nutnaree Mathong / ທະນະວັດ ຄົງແສນຄຳ Thanawatt Khongseankhum / ທັນຍະລັດ ສະທອນລັກ Thunyarat Satornlug / ອະພີດຊະຍາ ພຶກສະອາພອນ Aphitchaya Phrueksa-aphon / ວັນວິລາດ ບຸນລັດ Wanvilart Boonyaratana [ ຫອງການວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ / Sabaidee Magazine Sales Office THM Lao Co., Ltd. ] 256 ບ້ານ ໜອງບອນ ເມືອງໄຊເສດຖາ ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ສປປ ລາວ 265 Baan Nongbone, Xayxetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R [ ໂທ / ແຟັກ: / Tel / Fax ] +856 21 454782 / +856 21 454782 / Mobile: +856 20 5516 2440, +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 (Thai) [ ອີເມລ ບັນນາທິການ / Editor Email ] editor@sabaidee-magazine.com [ ອີເມລ ຝາຍຂາຍ / Sales Email ] chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com [ ເຈົາ້ ຂອງ ແລະ ຜູຈ ້ ດ ັ ພິມ / Owner & Publisher ] ທີ ເອັສ ເອັມ ລາວ THM Lao www.sabaidee-magazine.com [ ພິມທີ່ / Print by ] ໂຮງພິມ ລາວຍູນິພຮິນ ຈຳກັດ Lao Uniprint Press Co., Ltd ONLINE EDITION ALSO AVAILABLE AT:

HM For more information visit www.sabaidee-magazine.com or simply scan the QR code

LAO

All material appearing in Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission to the copyright holder. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the view of the publisher of the magazine. Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.



WHAT'S ON

MUSIC.

LEARN TO BACHATA AND SALSA Tuesdays for Bachata, Thursdays for Salsa, 9pm-10pm, April 12, Vientiane April 12 opens their dance floor for classes in Bachata and Salsa each week. Enjoy Latin music while teachers Erzio and Amantha teach you the moves from 9pm-10pm, followed by free dance time. Bachata classes are free, Salsa classes are 35,000 kip per person, per session. For more information visit www.facebook.com/ april12.restaurant.

PAUL CARTER LIVE August 8, 6.30pm, La Maison Restaurant, Vientiane

DANCE.

French restaurant La Maison is now hosting local jazz musician Paul Carter in a monthly night of live music. Paul will perform everything from blues, jazz, pop, 80’s and 90’s tunes in the restaurant’s leafy outdoor courtyard. Happy hour runs from 5.30pm-7.30pm, and La Maison is now also broadcasting live sport including NBA, rugby, tennis and football from 5.30pm-10pm.

ART. Pictured: Splendour of Mekong by Marisa.

MOSAIC Until July 20, M Gallery, Vientiane MOSAIC is a group exhibition bringing together the diverse style of works by seven prominent contemporary artists of Laos. Exhibiting artists include prominent female artist Marisa, whose 5.6 metre work Splendour of Mekong captures the beauty of life along the grand Mekong through her rendition of bold colours and eccentric curves. Mick Saylom, whose works have found many overseas collectors, speaks about life through his 16 socio commentary works. Also on show are attractive abstract works by Sivilay Souvannasing through his City Dream series, whilst Ole Scovil presents her take on Pop Art through her play of colours and creative composition. The rare but exciting cubist paintings of Somphet Chanthala are also on display. Also rarely featured in Laos are two individual installation works by Souliya Phoumivong and Bounpaul Phothyzan. For more information visit www.mgallery.com.sg.

LAOS IN FOCUS Until July 24, Institute Français, Luang Prabang This collection of photographs Laos In Focus: Picturing the Millennium Development Goals was gathered through a competition run by the United Nations and the Lao Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Lao photographers and the public were invited to reflect on development issues in their country from the point of view of the Millennium Development Goals. The result is a moving and personal account of Laos’ development through the people’s eyes. Free entry, gallery hours Mon-Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-8pm, Sat 8am-1pm, 2pm-5pm. Visit www.if-laos.org for more details.

MERGING Throughout August, i:cat gallery, Vientiane i:cat gallery will host Merging, an exhibition combining the works of Lao and international artists who are living in Vientiane. Artworks on display include photography, paintings, prints, textiles and drawings. Free entry, gallery hours Mon-Fri 1pm-8pm, Sat & Sun 1pm-6pm. For more information visit www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

ART CLASSES FOR KIDS Throughout July, i:cat gallery, Vientiane Vientiane-based artist Helen Biles will run art classes for children aged three years and up at i:cat gallery. Fun and interactive classes available include painting, drawing and craft and can be group sessions or one-on-one. All classes are by appointment only and times can be tailored to your schedule. To book a class, and for more details and pricing, contact Helen through her website (under the ‘Art Classes’ tab) at http://helenbiles.wordpress.com or enquiries@helenbiles.com, or search ‘Helen Biles Studio’ on Facebook. 10

FILM.

FRENCH ON FILM Saturdays, 2pm and 6pm, Institute Français, Vientiane Institut Français du Laos opens its cinema to the public for free each Saturday to promote the exciting, moving and inspiring world of French film. Two films are shown at each session from 2pm and 6pm. Family-friendly films on offer, free entry, for the full programme visit www.if-laos.org.



WHAT'S ON THEATRE.

KHAO NIEW ON TOUR August 6 & 7 in Savannakhet, August 27 & 28 in Luang Prabang, venues TBA Vientiane-based theatre company Khao Niew's most recent play ‘Metamorfoz’ will tour to Savannakhet and Luang Prabang as part of the Lao Culture Challenge Fund sponsored by the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation (SDC). The play tells the story of a family living by and off the river and how this life is changing. It is co-produced by French theatre company Theatr Piba. The theatre troupe will perform ‘Metamorfoz’ on August 6 & 7 at 7.30pm in Savannakhet, with a twoday theatre workshop at the Children's Cultural Centre on August 4 & 5. In Luang Prabang Khao Niew will run theatre workshops on August 25 & 26, and perform on August 27 & 28. ‘Metamorfoz’ is performed in Lao, but subtitled in English. Venues to be announced, for more information visit www.facebook.com/pages/Khao-Niew-Lao/436586063040845 or email khaoniewlao@gmail.com or kiritin.n@gmail.com (English).

SOCIAL.

THE MASTER WEAVERS ROOM OPENING NIGHT August 7, 5pm-8pm, Ock Pop Tok Flagship Store, Luang Prabang Ock Pop Tok will host an opening reception for The Master Weavers Room at their flagship shop in Ban Vat Nong, which showcases exquisite, highly intricate textiles produced by weavers who work with the group’s Living Crafts Centre in Luang Prabang. Weavers who have achieved ‘master weaver’ status demonstrate exceptional technical and design skills; furthermore, they demonstrate the ability to execute all aspects of a complex project, including conceptualising the design, setting the pattern on the loom and finally weaving the completed masterpiece. The Master Weavers Room aims to be the go-to destination to obtain the highest quality woven textiles in Luang Prabang specifically and Laos in general, and will be open year round, with new pieces being added to the collection as they are created. Held at Ock Pop Tok’s Vat Nong location in Luang Prabang, the reception will feature drinks and canapés made by the Silk Road Cafe, Ock Pop Tok’s restaurant located at the Living Crafts Centre on the banks of the Mekong. Many of the master weavers’ whose works are displayed in the gallery will be on hand to speak about their pieces and answer questions. For more information on the event, contact media@ockpoptok.com. For more information about Ock Pop Tok, visit www.ockpoptok.com.

ELEPHANTS QUIZ NIGHT

FOR THE LADIES Wednesdays, from 7pm, I-Beam, Vientiane I-Beam bar and restaurant’s popular Ladies Night continues every Wednesday with female customers enjoying 50% off all glasses of wine from 7pm onwards. The bar is well-stocked with European and South African vintages, so there’s sure to be something for all tastes, and the delectable tapas menu makes for an excellent accompaniment. For more details visit www.facebook.com/ibeamvientiane.

August 30, 7pm, Vientiane International School, Vientiane The Lao Elephants Football Club are holding a quiz night and silent auction to raise funds for their Lao national players to travel to regional and international tournaments with the club throughout the year. Upcoming games in 2014 include a match in Bangkok and the Manila Cup in the Philippines. Tickets are US$50 per person, and tables are for six people – tickets include catering by Pimenton, beer, wine and non-alcoholic drinks. There will also be a pay-as-you-go cocktail bar available on the night. For more details and to book a table contact Craig on 020 5505 9116.

SPORT.

BOURBON, BEERS, PIES & FOOTY AT STICKY FINGERS Weekly, as per scheduled AFL games, Sticky Fingers, Vientiane Sticky Fingers will show all televised afternoon, evening and weekend Australian Rules football games from their upper level bar area – Sticky Jock’s. Enjoy a cold beer and some classic pub fare, including Aussie meat pies, as you cheer on your favourite team. While there’s no games the area will be business as usual. For more information visit www.facebook.com/StickyFingersLaos. 12

AUSKICK FOR KIDS August 10, 9.30am-10.30am, Vientiane International School, Vientiane The Lao Elephants Football Club will hold an Auskick workshop at VIS, aimed at introducing children aged between five and 12 to Australian Rules Football. The fun, free session is open to kids of all nationalities and levels of experience with all equipment provided. Parents and volunteers welcome to attend or join in on the day. Contact the Lao Elephants for more details on 020 5505 9116.



WHAT'S NEW

Villa Maly ROLLS

OUT RED CARPET FOR LA PROCESSION

| Photo Shayling Ngo. |

Sputnik Burger LANDS IN VIENTIANE

A fresh and funky new burger joint has opened in Vientiane. A collaboration of the brains behind Pimenton and Jazzy Brick, Sputnik Burger is a welcome addition to the city’s dining scene. The restaurant is a retro ode to pop culture with Banksy-esque street art adorning the walls, industrial-style steel furniture, 1980s tunes pumping through the speakers, and the soon-to-be-iconic Volkswagen Beetle dining tables lining the entrance. The mouth-watering burgers, in an array of inventive flavours, are all served with hand cut chips in simple but unique cardboard boxes. The eponymous Sputnik Burger (45,000 kip) is a must-try with a succulent, tender beef patty, Swiss cheese, crispy bacon, gourmet greens and delectable caramelised onions. Pop into Sputnik Burger on Rue Setthathirath from Monday to Saturday, 11am-11pm. For more information, or to get your hands on their hip merchandise including t-shirts and caps, contact 03 0937 6504 or visit www.facebook.com/SputnikBurger.

TAEC

OPENS BOUTIQUE TAEC Boutique opens this month on the peninsula in Luang Prabang. The boutique retail space of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre specialises in exclusive handcrafted products direct from ethnic minority groups across Laos. Located on the main street in Luang Prabang, just across from Villa Santi Hotel, TAEC Boutique will feature the TAEC Heirloom Collection, with one-of-a-kind textiles, carvings and silver. Each museum-quality, collector’s item piece will include a certificate of authenticity. Open seven days a week from 9am9pm, be sure to visit the TAEC Boutique the next time you visit Luang Prabang. For more information contact TAEC Boutique on shop@taeclaos.org.

On a misty morning in mid-October, Luang Prabang’s daily procession of barefoot, saffronclad monks will cross paths with a troupe of trainersporting, neon-clad runners who will hit the scenic streets of the UNESCO Heritage Town to raise money for a new children’s hospital. The Luang Prabang Half-Marathon ‘La Procession’ will take place on October 12, 2014. This year, runners will be lacing up their sneakers to support the construction of the Lao Friends Hospital for Children, which aims to provide high-quality health care for the children of Laos. One of the race’s sponsoring hotels, Villa Maly, is welcoming runners in town for the halfmarathon with a special deal over the nights of October 11 and 12, 2014. A 33-room boutique hotel nestled in a former royal residence just outside the heritage town, Villa Maly’s Runners’ Package features two nights’ stay in a superior room with breakfast, pre- and post-race massages, round-trip airport pickups and transport to and from the race’s starting line. Rates for the package start at US$300 per room for single occupancy and US$438 for double sharing. For enquires about Villa Maly’s Runners’ Package, visit www.villa-maly.com or email info@villa-maly.com. Full details about the race and registration are available at www.luangprabanghalfmarathon.com.

BANANA BOAT’S

Summer Special | Photo Shayling Ngo. |

Lao Telecom

REWARDS DISTRIBUTORS Lao Telecom recently awarded their highest selling distributors nationwide with a teambuilding holiday to Phuket, Thailand. The four day, three night trip was hosted by Wonderland Tour Company and led by Mr Kingkeo Vangkaneng, Mr Piyavat Chariyasetthaphong and Mr Souphat Bakava, the Deputy Director of Lao Telecom. Around 130 people attended, including the distributors and division and sector heads. The aim of the holiday was to reward Lao Telecom distributors who have made outstanding sales and achieved targets, and to strengthen the relationship between the company and its distributors. This is the second rewardbased holiday Lao Telecom has arranged in 2014, with another group of high-performing distributors holidaying in Seoul, South Korea. 14

THE

Colours OF ASIA

Couleur D’Asie has reopened their boutique after relocating a hop, skip and jump from their previous location, to Rue Nokeokumane in downtown Vientiane, and the new space has allowed for the addition of an exquisite tearoom. The store lives by the concept of being able to buy everything you see. From the vibrant handmade dresses designed by owner Viviane Inthavong down to the cutlery on the dining tables, it is a shopper’s heaven. Open every day from 8am until midnight, by day, Couleur D’Asie creates a relaxing atmosphere where you can enjoy a comforting cup of tea while browsing the endless knickknacks hidden in every corner of the store. As the sun sets, the tearoom transforms into a hip lounge where friends can come together to relish a cheeky glass of champagne and a simple French or Asian meal. For more information please contact viviane.alth@gmail.com.

Are you planning a break in Luang Prabang? Then make sure you add a relaxing boat trip to your itinerary. This summer, Banana Boat is offering 15% off for all Sabaidee readers who book direct. There are many trips to choose from. Take the more scenic trip to Kuangsi waterfall via the Mekong, it's the most popular trip, departing at 11am and returning at sunset when the river is really alive. There are also trips to Pak Ou caves, via whiskey and handicraft villages, or you could choose to ride an elephant. If you’re short on time you can always enjoy a sunset cruise, with Lao snacks, sodas and beers – a great way to finish the day. Private charters and family discounts also available. For bookings and information visit www.bananaboatlaos.com, send an email through the contact page, visit the Ma Té Sai shop in Ban Aphai, or call 071 260 654 or 020 2295 9091. Quote the promo code ‘SABAIDEE15’ to receive the discount.



WHAT'S NEW

LAO TELECOM OPENS

Stop’ Chanmaly Loves ‘One SHOP IN XAYSOMBOUN CHARCUTERIE

Popular Vientiane restaurant Chanmaly Cafe is extending their services to offer speciality products like fine wines, charcuterie, cheeses and other delicatessen produce from Spain and Italy; and from July these goods are available for delivery. Equipped with a professional cold cut slicer, take away meats are also available with a special 5% discount for a limited time. In addition to these new ranges, the lunch menu is also getting a makeover with new salads, sandwiches, gazpachos and homemade desserts – all available for lunchtime delivery, perfect for an upcoming afternoon tea or business function. The in-house Chanmaly Florist is also expanding and will relocate to a dedicated space adjacent to the restaurant. For more information visit www.facebook.com/chanmalyrestaurant.

This month Lao Telecom opened a new One Stop service centre in Ban Phou Hua Xang, Anouvong district of Xaysomboun province. An opening ceremony was held on June 18, presided over by promotional head Mr Thansamay Xamonty. The Deputy Governor of Xaysomboun province, Mr Phoykham Houngbounyoung, also participated, along with sales agents and invited guests. Lao Telecom is strengthening its customer service by opening One Stop centres all around the country. So far the telecommunications company has 129 client service shops around Laos; of those, 89 are One Stop service centres. For more information visit: www.laotel.com, or www.facebook.com/laotel.

TOYOTA SPONSORS INAUGURAL

TOYOTA Mekong Club CHAMPIONSHIP

Silver Screen

POPS UP IN LUANG PRABANG The Luang Prabang Film Festival will run from December 6-10, and like always, will showcase best recent films from across Southeast Asia. The most exciting place to check out films during the event is the festival’s Night Venue at the Handicraft Market, right in the centre of town. There, 800 chairs are set up each year, though the festival regularly welcomes audiences of over a thousand visitors stopping by to watch movies under the stars. In addition to feature film screenings (all subtitled in English), there will be several programs of short films, Q&As with filmmakers, panel discussions with experts from around the region and beyond and several exhibitions on display. And, of course, for you selfie-lovers out there, there are always many opportunities to take pictures with the celebrities and directors in attendance. If you didn’t think it could get any better, all of the festival’s screenings and activities are totally free and open to the public. For more information, visit the festival’s website at www.lpfilmfest.org, or join 30,000 other followers on their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/lpfilmfest.

16

Toyota Motor Asia Pacific will sponsor the inaugural TOYOTA Mekong Club Championship taking place at the Hang Day stadium in Hanoi, Vietnam on October 31 and November 2 this year. The football tournament features the winning teams representing Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Vietnam. As the sponsor of the FIFA Club World Cup presented by TOYOTA, the AFC Asian Cup and other local football tournaments such as the Toyota Thai Premier League, this latest sponsorship is another show of Toyota’s support for the development of football globally and in the Mekong region. Kyoichi Tanada, Managing Officer of Toyota Motor Corporation, said, “We are proud to sponsor what promises to be an excellent tournament demonstrating the unifying spirit of football, arguably the world’s most popular sport. We feel that the passion and energy of football resonates with Toyota’s constant pursuit in innovation to bring ‘ever better’ cars to our customers.” This is the first TOYOTA Mekong Club Championship tournament, and Toyota Motor Asia Pacific is collaborating with local soccer federations and associations in Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Vietnam to organise the tournament. For more details visit http://toyotamekongfootball.com.

Burasari Heritage WELCOMES HALF-MARATHON

On your mark, get set, GO! If you're participating in this year's Luang Prabang Half-Marathon on October 12, stay with Burasari Heritage and they’ll pamper you and your entourage of supporters. Not only are they a short 10-minute walk to the start, Burasari Heritage is on the race course. The Half-Marathon package price includes: complimentary Airport Transfer; free WiFi, available throughout the hotel; complimentary international a la carte buffet breakfast daily; on race day, a special ‘Runner's Breakfast’ served at 4.30am, with low carbohydrates, low fat, high vitamin and moderate protein; special High Carb Pre-Race Dinner at The Terrace Restaurant for US$18 per person; complimentary Minibar, replenished once daily; complimentary Bicycle Rental, throughout your stay; 15% off Spa by Burasari; 15% off food at The Terrace Restaurant (excluding the special pre-race dinner); complimentary Morning Alms Giving Ceremony food basket (optional). Terms & Conditions: offer valid for October 1014, 2014, minimum 2-night stay. If cancelled or modified up to seven days before date of arrival, no fee will be charged. Cancellations made within seven days prior to arrival or no shows will be subject to full charge. Prices are per room per stay (maximum 2 persons/room). Direct booking only through www.burasariheritage.com or inquiry@burasariheritage.com.

Escape TO THE WATER’S EDGE

Mekong Estate unveils its latest villa, a newly built private vacation residence located on the Mekong River in Ban Khoi, just a 10-minute drive from Luang Prabang town. The house features Lao-French colonial architecture, three bedrooms, four bathrooms, a full kitchen, living room, a 25-metre long infinity pool and wraparound terrace or balcony for stunning Mekong views. Your stay includes daily housekeeping, grounds keeping and security. The villa is now available for daily, weekly or long-term rental and for private functions with full catering. To celebrate the opening, Mekong Estate has a special introductory rate for a limited time. For details or to book: info@mekongestate.com or www.mekongestate.com.



SAYAM LAUNCHES CURVED OLED TV

Peace IN

FIND INNER LUANG PRABANG

Meditation sessions and classes are now available at Hotel Kiridara in Luang Prabang. Open classes run in the morning and the evening, with private classes available upon request. The open classes are a mix of traditional Hindu, Verdic, Buddhist and New Age meditation principles, with each session incorporating elements of breath, sound, movement and silence. Master or private classes can be scheduled and tailored to your own personal practices and requirements. All sessions are conducted in the purpose-built Sala which sits at the top of the Hotel Kiridara, looking across the Mekong and the old city into surrounding mountain ranges. Urban retreats, early morning and late evening meditation excursions are planned for later in the year. For more information contact Francis 002 2388 2330 or Michelle 020 5576 5574, or email hm@kiridara.com for a programme.

LG

Sayam International Group recently launched the new LG CURVED OLED TV at its Vientiane showroom. The innovative new product features a unique curved screen which enhances the quality of the picture and is ideal for optimal viewing at all perfect viewing angles. The screen also captures true depth image, accuracy and crisp lines. The LG CURVED OLED TV also featured 4 Colour Pixel technology and infinite contrast, giving images deeper, richer colours and stunning contrast. The launch was presided over by Ms Souphitsa Lamasoud, President of the Board Administrative Committee of Sayam International Group, and the event was attended by Mr Bong Sok Khim, of the Management Committee of LG Electronics Thailand Ltd. The television can currently be purchased on a down payment system with 0% interest, and there is a limitedtime special price during the launch period.

TRADITIONAL SAUNA AND MASSAGE WITH

Lao Red Cross

Lao Red Cross has lovingly restored its traditional sauna and massage centre, set in a colonial-era house in Ban Visoun, Luang Prabang. Treat yourself to authentic natural therapies and relax knowing that all profits support the work of Lao Red Cross. The herbal sauna, consisting of wooden steam rooms infused with lemongrass, kaffir lime, galangal and other medicinal plants, makes a memorable experience. Inhale the steam, sip on herbal tea and sweat it out with locals. Oil body massage and foot massage work on acupressure points to reestablish the energy flow throughout the body, improve circulation and promote relaxation. Combine the sauna with a massage for the ultimate way to refresh and revive your body, the traditional Lao way. Prices start from 10,000 kip for a herbal sauna/steam bath, an oil massage or foot massage is 50,000 kip per hour, aromatherapy oil massages are 80,000 kip per hour. The centre is open daily, with massages running between 1pm-9pm, and the sauna open from 4pm-8pm. For more information contact the Lao Red Cross traditional sauna and massage centre on (856-71) 252 856.

Welcome to Sabaidee Club! This is a space for our readers to take part in our monthly competition with the chance to win a variety of fantastic prizes. This month we’d love to hear about your summer holidays, so tell us how you’ve spent your summer, or about any travels you have planned, or send us a snapshot of a holiday you’ve been on recently. Email your answer to editor@sabaidee-magazine.com, or post it on our Facebook page before August 9, 2014. The winner will

win a US$100 voucher to the luxurious Kiridara Luang Prabang hotel.

“ສະບາຍດີ ຄລັບ” ນີ້ເປັນສະຖານທີ່ ສໍາລັບຜູ້ອ່ານ ທີ່ຈະມີສ່ວນຮ່ວມໃນການແຂ່ງຂັນປະຈຳ�

ຍິນດີຕ້ອນຮັບສູ່ ເດືອນ ເພື່ອໂອກາດຊະນະລາງວັນຕ່າງໆ.

ເດືອນນີ້ ພວກເຮົາຢາກໄດ້ຍິນ ກ່ຽວກັບມື້ພັກຜ່ອນໄລຍະລະດູຮ້ອນຂອງທ່ານ, ສະນັ້ນ ບອກພວກເຮົາ ວ່າທ່ານໃຊ້ເວລາ ພັກຜ່ອນໃນລະດູຮ້ອນນີ້ຈັ່ງໃດ? ຫຼືບອກກ່ຽວກັບ ການເດີນທາງ ທີ່ທ່ານໄດ້ວາງແຜນ ຫຼືສົ່ງຮູບມື້ພັກຜ່ອນທີ່ທ່ານໄດ້ໄປ ຫຼ້າສຸດມາໃຫ້ພວກເຮົາ ອີເມລຫາພວກເຮົາ ທີ່ editor@sabaidee-magazine.com ຫຼື ໂພສລົງເຟສບຸ໋ກ ກ່ອນວັນທີ 9 ສິງຫາ 2014.

ຜູ້ຊະນະລາງວັນຈະໄດ້ຮັບບັດມູນຄ່າ 100 ໂດລາ ເພື່ອໃຊ້ບໍລິການທີ່ Kiridara Luang Prabang Hotel. ສົນໃຈເປັນສະມາຊິກ ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດີ

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| Behind the scenes, Mattie Do directing a traditional Lao wedding scene in her first film, ‘Chanthaly’. |

MY CITY

interview Kate Antonas photos courtesy Mattie Do What better way to get to know a city than through those who live, work, and play in it? Sabaidee Magazine chats to a resident to get an insider’s guide to their locale. PROPELLING LAO CINEMA TO INTERNATIONAL SCREENS IS THE COUNTRY’S FIRST FEMALE FEATURE FILM DIRECTOR, MATTIE DO, WHOSE DEBUT FEATURE FILM ‘CHANTHALY’ (A GHOST-FILLED HORROR EPIC) GARNERED ATTENTION ON FESTIVAL CIRCUITS IN THE US, UK, ASIA AND EUROPE. WITH A BACKGROUND IN MAKEUP ARTISTRY FOR FILM AND PHOTOGRAPHY IN ITALY, SHE RELOCATED TO VIENTIANE WITH HER LAO-AMERICAN FAMILY IN 2010 AND USED HER FILM-PRODUCTION KNOW-HOW TO GET HER FOOT IN THE DOOR ON LOCAL MEDIA PROJECTS, AND IS NOW A DIRECTOR AND PRODUCER AT LAO ART MEDIA. NOW, WITH HER FOLLOW-UP HORROR FEATURE ‘NONG HAK (DEAREST SISTER)’ SET TO BE RELEASED IN SPRING 2015, AND HAVING JUST RETURNED FROM PARTICIPATING IN THE COVETED LA FABRIQUE DES CINÉMAS DU MONDE AT THE CANNES FILM FESTIVAL 2014 – AN OPPORTUNITY FOR EMERGING FILMMAKERS TO BE MENTORED AND PRESENT THEIR FILMS TO POTENTIAL FUNDERS AT THE CANNES FILM MARKET – MATTIE LIFTS THE LID ON HER LIFE IN THE CAPITAL.

My V ie n t i an e

HOW DOES LIVING IN VIENTIANE INFLUENCE YOUR CREATIVE WORK?

All my work revolves around Vientiane, my family comes from here and I’ve found that most people who undertake creative projects here tend to focus on rural Laos. I’m more interested in the city – it’s evolving so quickly and I want to track that through film. I want to capture the stories of everyday people in Vientiane and their relationships, particularly from women’s point of view, which I don’t think are being told enough. TAKE US THROUGH A TYPICAL DAY OF FILMING IN VIENTIANE: | Lao film represented at the Festival de Cannes for the first time in history. Mattie Do walks the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival. |

It’s gruelling! We wake up very early and prepare shot lists and arrange wardrobe and makeup while the crew sets up. It’s very long days in the heat, and the environment and atmosphere – whether it be noisy tuk tuks or even frogs – is very hard to control. For a day shoot we’ll work from sunrise to sunset, for night shoots sunset to sunrise. After a 12 hour day we’ll end up with about 20 minutes of film – ‘Chanthaly’ took 60 days to shoot.

ເມືອງວຽງຈັນຂອງຂ້ອຍ ມີວິທີໃດອີກທີ່ຈະຮູ້ຈັກຕົວເມືອງໃດໜຶ່ງໄດ້ດີໄປກວ່າການເລົ່າ ຜ່ານຜູທ ້ ອ ີ່ າໄສຢູ່ ເຮັດວຽກ ແລະ ໃຊ້ຊວ ີ ດ ິ ທ່ຽວກິນຢູໃ່ ນຕົວເມືອງ ນັ້ນເອງ, ວາລະສານ “ສະບາຍດີ” ໄດ້ໂອ້ລົມກັບຄົນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ເພື່ອເປັນຜູນ ້ ໍາທ່ຽວແນະນໍາ ຕົວເມືອງຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າເອງ. ການຂັບ ເຄື່ອ ນ ຮູ ບ ເງົ າ ລາວ ສູ່ໜ້າ ຈໍ ສ າກົນ ແມ່ນ ຜູ້ກໍາກັບ ຮູ ບ ເງົ າ ເລື່ອ ງທີ່ເ ປັ ນ ແມ່ຍິ ງ ຄົນ ທໍາອິ ດ ຂອງປະເທດ, ທ່າ ນນາງ Mattie Do ຜູ້ທີ່ນໍາສະເໜີຮບ ູ ເງົາເລື່ອງ “ຈັນທະລີ” ຊຶ່ງໄດ້ຮັບຄວາມສົນໃຈຈາກກຸ່ມມະ ຫະກໍາຮູບເງົາໃນປະເທດອາເມຣິກາ ອັງກິດ ເອເຊຍ ແລະ ຢູໂຣບ ຈາກປະສົບ ການຄວາມຮູ້ດ້ານສິລະປະການແຕ່ງໜ້າ ສໍາລັບ ຮູບເງົາ ແລະ ການຖ່າຍພາບ ຢູ່ປະເທດອິຕາລີ, ທ່ານຍ້າຍມາຢູ່ວຽງຈັນ ກັບຄອບຄົວທີ່ເປັນຄົນລາວອາເມຣິ ກ າ ໃນປີ 2010 ແລະ ປັດ ຈຸ ບັນ ທ່າ ນແມ່ນ ຜູ້ກໍາກັບ ແລະ ຜູ້ຜະລິດຮູບເງົາ ທີ່ບລ ໍ ສ ິ ັດ ລາວອາທ໌ມເີ ດຍ (Lao Art Media). ປັດຈຸບັນ ຮູບເງົາເລື່ອງ ທີ່ມຊ ີ ື່ວ່າ “ນ້ອງຮັກ” ຈະອອກສາຍໃນລະດູບານໃໝ່ປີ 2015 ນີ້ ແລະ ໄດ້ເຂົ້າຮ່ວມໃນ ງານ La Fabrique des Cinémas du Monde ທີ່ມະຫະກໍາຮູບເງົາທີ່ເຄນ (Cannes Film Festival) ຊຶ່ງເປັນໂອກາດ ຂອງນັກສ້າງຮູບເງົາ ທີ່ໂດນເດັ່ນ ທີ່ຈະນໍາສະເໜີ ຜົນງານຂອງຕົນຕໍ່ຜູ້ໃຫ້ທນ ຶ ໃນຕະຫຼາດຮູບເງົາ ທີ່ເມືອງເຄນ Mattie ເປີດຊີວດ ິ ຂອງທ່ານໃນຕົວເມືອງ.

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DESCRIBE YOUR IDEAL WEEKEND IN VIENTIANE:

Dining out! I like to take my dog Mango with me to lunch, so we’ll find somewhere with outdoor seating. At night, sometimes we’ll go restaurant-hopping with friends, starting with apéritif at Ǣnoteca (facebook. com/AEnoteca) which has a phenomenal selection of Italian wine, and they have a cellar where you can order some antipasto while you drink. Then dinner at Ai Capone (facebook.com/Aicaponelaospdr) for amazing traditional Italian – it reminds me of my favourite restaurant in Rome, then dessert. I rarely leave Vientiane, I like to enjoy my time with good food, wine and friends. WHAT, IN YOUR OPINION, IS VIENTIANE’S BEST KEPT SECRET?

Apae Ice Cream is a tiny shop on the corner of Chao Anou Road and the 450 Year Market. It’s run by a little old lady who sells homemade ice cream for 5,000 kip. She has taro, coconut, and chocolate flavours, and serves the scoops over sweet sticky rice in old-school metal bowls.

ການດໍາລົງ ຊີ ວິ ດ ຢູ່ເ ມື ອ ງວຽງຈັນ ໄດ້ສົ່ງ ຜົນ ແນວໃດ ຕໍ່ຜົນງານທີ່ສ້າງສັນຂອງທ່ານ? ວຽກທັງໝົດຂອງຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ແມ່ນກ່ຽວຂ້ອງຢູ່ໃນຕົວເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ຄອບຄົວຂອງຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ແມ່ນມີພື້ນຖານຈາກຕົວເມືອງນີ້ ແລະ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າພົບວ່າ ໝົດທຸກຄົນຜູ້ດໍາເນີນໂຄງການທີ່ສ້າງສັນໃນທີ່ນີ້ ແມ່ນມີທ່າອ່ຽງຈະສຸມໃສ່ໃນເຂດຊົນນະບົດຂອງລາວ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າສົນ ໃຈໃນເຂດຕົວເມືອງຫຼາຍກວ່າ ມັນມີຄວາມກ່ຽວຂ້ອງຢ່າງວ່ອງໄວ ແລະ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຕ້ອງການເອົາສິ່ງດັ່ງກ່າວຜ່ານຟີມ, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຕ້ອງ ການຈະຈັບເອົາວິຖຊ ີ ວ ີ ດ ິ ປະຈໍາວັນຂອງຄົນໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ຊຶ່ງຂ້າ ພະເຈົ້າຄິດວ່າຍັງບໍ່ທັນມີການບອກເລົ່າທີ່ພຽງພໍເທື່ອ.

ກະລຸນາແນະນໍາພວກເຮົາໃຫ້ຮູ້ຈັກກັບ ມື້ປົກກະຕິຂອງ ການຜະລິດຮູບເງົາ ໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນ: ພວກເຮົາຕື່ນແຕ່ເຊົ້າໆ ກຽມລາຍການຖ່າຍທໍາ, ກະກຽມເສື້ອຜ້າ ແລະ ແຕ່ງໜ້າ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ທີມງານພວມກະກຽມຕິດຕັ້ງເຄື່ອງ ມັນເປັນມື້ທີ່ຍາວນານ ໃນມື້ທີ່ຮ້ອນອົບເອົ້າ ແລະ ສະພາບແວດລ້ອມ ບໍ່ວ່າຈະເປັນສຽງນອງນັນຂອງລົດຕຸ໋ກຕຸ໋ກ ຫຼືລວມໄປເຖິງສຽງກົບຂຽດ ຊຶ່ງຍາກທີ່ຈະຄວບຄຸມ ຫຼັງຈາກຖ່າຍທໍາໄດ້ 12 ຊົ່ວໂມງໃນມື້ໜຶ່ງ, ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ ຖ່າຍທໍາປະມານ 20 ນາທີ ຮູບເງົາ “ຈັນທະລີ” ໃຊ້ເວລາຖ່າຍທໍາທັງໝົດ 60 ວັນ.

ຈົ່ງ ເລົ່າ ໃຫ້ພ ວກເຮົ າ ຟັງ ກ່ຽ ວກັບ ການໃຊ້ເ ວລາໃນທ້າ ຍ ອາທິດຂອງທ່ານ: ອອກໄປກິນເຂົ້າແລງນອກເຮືອນ! ໃນເວລາກາງຄືນ ບາງເທື່ອພວກ ເຮົາຈະໄປນັດພົບປະສັງສັນກັນທີ່ຮ້ານອາຫານ, ເລີ່ມຈາກດື່ມຮອງ

| Mattie Do during a live Q&A session after American audiences view ‘Chanthaly’, a Lao film, for the first time at North America's largest genre film festival, Fantastic Fest. | ທ້ອງທີ່ Ǣnoteca ຊຶ່ງມີວາຍອິຕາລີທີ່ດຢ ີ ່າງຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ຕໍ່ຈາກນັ້ນກໍ ໄປຮັບປະທານອາຫານຄໍ່າທີ່ Ai Capone ສໍາລັບອາຫານອິຕາລີແບບ ພື້ນເມືອງຂ້າພະເຈົ້າບໍ່ຄ່ອຍອອກຈາກເມືອງວຽງຈັນຂ້າພະເຈົ້າມ່ວນຊື່ນ ກັບການໃຊ້ເວລາຂອງຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ກັບອາຫານ ວາຍ ແລະ ໝູ່ເພື່ອນທີ່ດ.ີ

ໃນຄວາມຄິດຂອງທ່ານ ຄວາມລັບທີ່ຖກ ື ເກັບມ້ຽນທີ່ດທ ີ ີ່ສດ ຸ ຂ ອງເມືອງວຽງຈັນແມ່ນຫຍັງ? ແມ່ນ Apae Ice Cream ຢູ່ແຈມູນຖະໜົນເຈົ້າອານຸ ແລະ ຕະຫຼາດ 450 ປີ ຊຶ່ງຮ້ານ ແມ່ນດໍາເນີນກິດຈະການ ໂດຍແມ່ຍງິ ອາວຸໂສຄົນໜຶ່ງ ທີ່ຂ າຍກະ ແລັ ມ ເຜື ອ ກ ໝາກພ້າ ວ ແລ ະ ຊ໋ອ ກ ໂ ກ ແ ລັ ດ ທີ່ເຮັດດ້ວຍຕົນເອງ ໃນລາຄາ 5.000 ກີບ ຊຶ່ງເອົາກະແລັມປົນກັບເຂົ້າ ໜຽວຫວານ.



SPOTLIGHT ON

words Justin Lancy photos Justin Lancy/TravelerTech.com

A P ER F EC T EVENING

IN LUANG PRABANG

I Sunset over Luang Prabang. I

SLEEPY LUANG PRABANG ISN’T EXACTLY KNOWN FOR ITS NIGHTLIFE BUT, AS SABAIDEE MAGAZINE DISCOVERS, IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU’RE DOING, YOU CAN EASILY HAVE A PERFECT EVENING WHILE YOU’RE IN TOWN.

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5.00pm: Your evening in Luang Prabang starts about an hour before sunset

with a cruise on the Mekong River. Grab a bottle or two of your favourite beverage and get to the banks of the river just as daylight begins to fade. You’ll find dozens of boat drivers ready to take you out on your own private cruise (usually about 120,000 kip for an hour or so). There are few travel moments as magical as when your driver turns off the engine and your boat floats gently downstream while you watch a jaw-dropping Mekong sunset. For a slightly more luxurious version, companies like Banana Boat Laos (www.bananaboatlaos.com) will bring the food and drink for you – and maybe even give you a temple tour before you go out on the water.


7.00pm: After the sun has gone on its way, ask your boat driver drop you off at the landing near the Royal Museum so you’ll be close to one of the best restaurants in town – Blue Lagoon (http://blue-lagoon-restaurant.com). Dinner at Swiss-trained chef Somsack Sengta’s eatery is a treat, serving you an eclectic mix of Lao and European dishes in a fine dining setting. Try his papaya salad or, if you’re in the mood for something more cheese-rich, his signature Aelpler Maggronen pasta might make you yodel with delight.

8.30pm: After dinner, take a left out of Blue Lagoon’s front door and you’ll soon be

at the intersection where the Night Market begins. If you need a post-prandial stroll to walk off your dinner, make a right turn and meander through the market. If you’re ready for coffee and dessert, make a left and walk directly to Tangor (http://letangor.com), the Indochinese-inspired bistro created by Thibault Josse and Marie-Odile Clavel. Order an espresso, a digestif, or their wickedly-good chocolate lava cake. If your timing is right, you’ll be able to grab one of Tangor’s street-side tables and enjoy your post-dinner treat in a high-backed wicker chair – perfect for people-watching in comfort.

10.00pm: In the mood for a nightcap?

Walk out the front door of Tangor, make a right turn, and continue walking down Sisavanvong Road until you get to a small, fourway intersection. Make a right turn heading down the hill (towards Wat Siphouttabath and the Nam Khan river road) and you’ll see Luang Prabang’s favourite bar – the Icon Klub (www.iconklub.com) – on the right-hand side. Popular with tourists and expats alike, Icon Klub is helmed by Lisa Vongsaravanh, a Hungarian artist who also mixes delicious, whimsically-named cocktails. Contemplate her collection of curiosities or perhaps read one of the dozens of inspirational quotes that are hung around the bar while you toast the end of your perfect evening. (The one by Yeats at the front door should be the bar’s motto: "There are no strangers here, only friends who haven't yet met.”)

I Icon Klub I

I Blue Lagoon restaurant. Photo courtesy Blue Lagoon. I

I Tangor I

I Blue Lagoon restaurant. Photo courtesy Blue Lagoon. I

I Icon Klub I

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ອັດສະດົງຍາມແລງ ທີ່ແສນວິເສດ

ທີ່ຫຼວງພຣະບາງ

ຫຼວງພຣະບາງ ທີ່ຫຼັບໄຫຼ ບໍ່ເປັນທີ່ຮູ້ຈັກໃນດ້ານ ຊີວິດໃນຍາມກາງຄືນ, ແຕ່ວ່າ ເທົ່າທີ່ວາລະສານ “ສະບາຍດີ” ໄດ້ສໍາຫຼວດມາ ຖ້າວ່າທ່ານຮູ້ໃນສິ່ງ ທີ່ທ່ານເຮັດ ທ່ານກໍຈະສາມາດມີໄລຍະເວລາ ຄ້ອຍຄໍ່າຍາມແລງ ທີ່ວິເສດ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ທ່ານ ພັກຢູ່ໃນເມືອງນີ້. 17.00 ໂມງ: ຊີວດິ ຍາມແລງ ໃນເມືອງຫຼວງພຣະບາງ ເລີ່ມປະມານ

1 ຊົ່ວ ໂມງກ່ອ ນຕາເວັ ນ ຕົກ ດິ ນ ດ້ວ ຍການລ່ອ ງເຮື ອ ຕາມລໍານໍ້າຂອງ ໃນເວລາທີ່ແສງແດດພວມອ່ອນລົງ, ທ່ານຈະເຫັນຄົນຂັບເຮືອຈໍານວນຫຼາຍ ກຽມພ້ອມທີ່ຈະນໍາທ່ານ ສູ່ການລ່ອງເຮືອສ່ວນຕົວຂອງທ່ານ (ປົກກະຕິ ລາຄາແມ່ນຢູ່ປະມານ 120.000 ກີບ ຕໍ່ ຊົ່ວໂມງ). ມັນແມ່ນໄລຍະເວລາ ທີ່ວິເສດຫຼາຍ,ເມື່ອຄົນຂັບເຮືອຂອງທ່ານມອດຈັກເຮືອ ແລະ ປ່ອຍເຮືອ ໃຫ້ລ່ອງລົງຕາມສາຍນໍ້າຢ່າງຊ້າໆ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ທ່ານມີຄວາມສຸກກັບການ ຊົມຕາເວັນກໍາລັງເລື່ອນລົງຫຼັບຂອບຟ້າ. ສຳ�ລັບເຮືອໃນລັກສະນະທີ່ຫຼູຫຼາ ກວ່າ, ບັນດາບໍລສ ິ ັດ ເຊັ່ນ Banana Boat Laos ຈະໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານທ່ານ ພ້ອມທັງອາຫານແລະເຄື່ອງດື່ມແລະອາດຈະພາທ່ານທ່ຽວຊົມວັດວາອາຣາມ ກ່ອນທີ່ທ່ານຈະຂຶ້ນຝັ່ງ.

19.00 ໂມງ:

ຫຼັງ ຈາກເບິ່ງ ຕາເວັ ນ ຕົກ ດິ ນ ແລ້ວ ທ່າ ນສາມາດ ບອກນາຍຂັບ ເຮື ອ ຂອງທ່າ ນ ສົ່ງ ທ່າ ນທີ່ແ ຄມຝັ່ງ ໃກ້ພ ຣະຣາຊວັງ ເກົ່າ ຊຶ່ງ ທ່າ ນຈະໄດ້ສໍາຜັດ ກັບ ຮ້າ ນອາຫານທີ່ດີ ທີ່ສຸ ດ ແຫ່ງ ໜຶ່ງ ຂອງເມື ອ ງ ຮ້ານ Blue Lagoon ພໍ່ຄົວ ທ່ານສົມສັກ ແສງຕາ ຈະໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານທ່ານ ໃນລາຍ ການອາຫານປະສົມປະສານລະຫ່ວາງອາຫານລາວ ແລະ ຢູໂຣບ ກັບບັນຍາກາດທີ່ອົບອຸ່ນ ລອງຊີມລາຍການອາຫານ ຕໍາໝາກຫຸ່ງຂອງລາວ ຫຼືຖ້າທ່ານຕ້ອງການອາຫານທີ່ມເີ ນີຍ ພັສຕາ ແມ່ນຈະໄດ້ຮັບການແນະນໍາ.

20.30 ໂມງ: ຫຼັງຈາກຮັບປະທານອາຫານຄໍ່າແລ້ວ ອອກຈາກປະຕູຮ້ານ

BlueLagoonໄປທາງຊ້າຍມືທ່ານກໍຈະພົບຈຸດເຊື່ອມບ່ອນທີ່ຕະຫຼາດຫັດຖະ ກໍາກາງຄືນເລີ່ມຕົ້ນຖ້າທ່ານຕ້ອງການທີ່ຈະຍ່າງເພື່ອຍ່ອຍອາຫານ,ລ້ຽວຂວາ ແລະ ສໍາຫຼວດຕະຫຼາດກາງຄືນ. ຖ້າທ່ານພ້ອມສໍາລັບ ການດື່ມກາເຟ ແລະ ອາຫານຫວານໃຫ້ລຽ້ວຊ້າຍ ແລະ ຍ່າງກົງໄປທີ່ຮ້ານ Tangor ເປັນບາລັກສະນະອິນໂດຈີນ ທີ່ສ້າງສັນໂດຍ Thibault Josse ແລະ MarieOdile Clavel ສັ່ງເອັກສະເປໂຊ ຫຼື ເຄັກຊ໋ອກໂກແລັດລາວາທີ່ແຊບຂອງຮ້ານ ຖ້າທ່ານມາໃນເວລາທີ່ເໝາະສົມ ທ່ານກໍຈະໄດ້ໂຕະ-ຕັ່ງນັ່ງແຄມຖະໜົນ ມີຄວາມສຸກກັບອາຫານຮອບເດິກໃນຊຸດຕັ່ງຫວາຍ ທີ່ນັ່ງສະບາຍເໝາະ ສໍາລັບຜູ້ທີ່ຕ້ອງການຄວາມສະດວກສະບາຍ.

I Banana Boat Laos. I

22.00 ໂມງ:

ມີ ຄ ວ າ ມ ຕ້ອ ງ ກ າ ນ ທີ່ຈ ະ ມີ ຄ ວ າ ມ ບັນ ເ ທີ ງ ໃນລັກ ສະນະສະຖານທີ່ບັນ ເທີ ງ ! ຍ່າ ງອອກທາງປະຕູ ໜ້າ ຂອງຮ້າ ນ Tangor ລ້ຽວຂວາ ແລະ ສືບຕໍ່ຍ່າງລົງໄປ ຕາມຖະໜົນ ສີສະຫວ່າງວົງ ຈົນກວ່າທ່ານຈະເຫັນ4ແຍກນ້ອຍໆແລ້ວລ້ຽວຂວາຍ່າງລົງໄປຕາມທາງຄ້ອຍ (ໄປຫາວັດສີພດ ຸ ທະບາດ ແລະ ຖະໜົນແຄມນໍ້າການ) ທ່ານ ກໍຈະພົບບາ ທີ່ໄ ດ້ຮັບ ຄວາມນິ ຍົມ ແຫ່ງ ໜຶ່ງ ຂອງຫຼວງພຣະບາງ, ຮ້າ ນ Icon Klub ທາງເບື້ອ ງຂວາມື ຊຶ່ງ ໄດ້ຮັບ ຄວາມນິ ຍົມ ໃນກຸ່ມ ນັກ ທ່ອ ງທ່ຽ ວ ແລະ ຄົນຕ່າງຖິ່ນ Icon Klub ແມ່ນບໍລິຫານໂດຍ Lisa Vongsaravanh, ນັກສິລະປິນ ຊາວຮົງກາຣີ ຜູ້ທີ່ສາມາດປຸງຄ໋ອກເທວໄດ້ດຫຼ ີ າຍ ຊື່ນຊົມກັບຜົນ ງານການສະສົມສິ່ງທີ່ສົນໃຈຂອງເຈົ້າຂອງຮ້ານ ຫຼືອ່ານຂໍ້ຄວາມທີ່ໃຫ້ແຮງບັນ ດານໃຈ ຫຼາຍຢ່າງ ທີ່ຫ້ອຍຕາມບາ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ທ່ານມີຄວາມສຸກກັບການ ຍົກຈອກສະຫຼອງຄໍ່າຄືນທີ່ແສນວິເສດຂອງທ່ານ.

24

I Tangor I



FURTHER AFIELD

words James Elton-Pym photos courtesy WCS/NEPL

LIKE A TIGER IN THE TORCHLIGHT:

Nam Nern Night Safari

HOW THE FIGHTS POACHING WITH TOURISM

Deep in the jungle of Laos’ largest national park, a dwindling tiger population is fighting for survival, along with many other species. Could an innovative ecotourism scheme be the key to making Nam Et - Phou Louey’s wildlife more valuable alive than strung out to dry in the bushmeat markets?

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ເໝືອນດັ່ງ ເສືອ ໃນແສງໂຄມໄຟ: ວິທີການ ທີ່ໂຄງ ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວປ່າໃນຍາມຄໍ່າຄືນ ຢູ່ເຂດນໍ້າເນີນ ຕໍ່ສູ້ຍາດແຍ່ງ ດ້ວຍວິຖີ ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ

ເຂົ້າໄປໃນປ່າເລິກ ຂອງເຂດປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດ ທີ່ໃຫຍ່ທີ່ສຸດໃນ ສປປ ລາວ ຊຶ່ງມີຈໍານວນປະຊາກອນເສືອ ທີ່ຫຼຸດລົງ, ກໍາລັງຕໍ່ສູ້ ເພື່ອການຢູ່ລອດ ໄປພ້ອມໆກັບ ສັດ ແລະ ພືດພັນຊະນິດອື່ນໆ ອີກຈໍານວນຫຼາຍ ໂຄງການທ່ອງທ່ຽວແບບອະນຸລັກ ທຳ�ມະຊາດທີ່ສ້າງສັນ ຈະເປັນກຸນແຈສໍາຄັນ ເພື່ອເຮັດໃຫ້ສັດປ່າ ໃນນໍ້າແອັດ-ພູເລີຍ (Nam Et – Phou Louey) ມີຄນ ຸ ຄ່າໃນການອະນຸລັກໃຫ້ມຊ ີ ວ ີ ດ ິ ຢູ່ດກ ີ ວ່າ ການໄລ່ລ່າ ເພື່ອຂາຍໃນຕະຫຼາດບໍ່?


They’re solitary animals, hunting alone in the dense undergrowth of Southeast Asian jungles where their golden fur won’t be spotted by prey. Capable of bringing down deer much larger than they are, they’re an apex predator at the top of the food chain. Except they’re not. Indo-Chinese tigers are in rapid decline as they are hunted into nonexistence, targeted by poachers looking to capitalise on the premium prices for exotic tiger meat and the unwavering demand for the ingredients to make Chinese traditional medicines. A wild tiger can fetch between US$10,000 and US$70,000 on the international black market. Laos’ largest national park, the Nam Et Phou Louey National Protected Area, is one of the final battlegrounds that will determine the species’ survival. It’s one of the only remaining places where the species naturally breeds, and yet with only somewhere between seven and 23 tigers remaining in the park, each one poached pushes the population closer to the brink.

Tigers were just one of many threatened species the Wildlife Conservation Society was hoping to help protect when it launched the Nam Nern Night Safari in the national park in 2009. Walking the line between preserving those species and respecting the right of local Lao to hunt for subsistence, the WCS devised a plan as cunning as the tigers themselves. Tourists are taken down a river in boats at night, floating with the engines off, bearing headlamps with which to spot wild animals. But the genius is in the way the visitor fees are distributed. For each animal tourists spot, money is paid to a village development fund, commensurate to that animal’s rarity. This creates a direct incentive for conservation, and a tangible, monetary value for animals who are alive. The less the villagers hunt, the more money flows in from increased tourist sightings. It’s a process they can see at work – sightings of rare species increased from around two per boat in 2008-09 to nearly five per boat in 2012-13.

ພວກເຂົ າ ເປັ ນ ສັດ ສັນ ໂດດ ຫາເຫຍື່ອ ຕາມລໍາພັງ ໃນປ່າ ຕຶ ບ

ພາຍໃຕ້ປ່າດົງດິບ, ພາກພື້ນເອເຊຍຕາເວັນອອກສ່ຽງໃຕ້ ບ່ອນຊຶ່ງ ຂົນ ທີ່ເ ປັ ນ ດັ່ງ ຄໍາຂອງພວກເຂົ າ ບໍ່ໄ ດ້ຖື ກ ແຕ່ງ ແຕ້ມ ດ້ວ ຍເຫຍື່ອ ຄວາມອາດສາມາດ ທີ່ຈະລົ້ມກວາງທີ່ມີຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່ກ່ວາພວກ

ມັນ ໄດ້ ພວກມັນ ຖື ກ ຈັດ ເປັ ນ ສັດ ໃນລະດັບ ຊັ້ນ ສູ ງ ອິ ງ ຕາມຕ່ອ ງ ໂສ້ອາຫານ.

ຍົກເວັ້ນແຕ່ບໍ່ແມ່ນພວກເຂົາ, ເສືອ ອິນໂດຈີນ ແມ່ນມີຈໍານວນ

ຫຼຸດລົງຢ່າງໄວວາເນື່ອງຈາກພວກເຂົາຖືກໄລ່ລ່າຈົນກວ່າຈະສູນພັນ

ຊຶ່ງແມ່ນເປົ້າໝາຍຂອງນັກລ່າສັດ ທີ່ຫາລາຍໄດ້ ຈາກລາຄາທີ່ແພງ ສຳ�ລັບ ຊີ້ນ ເ ສື ອ ທີ່ຫ າ ຍ າ ກ ນີ້ ແ ລ ະ ຄ ວ າ ມ ຕ້ອ ງ ກ າ ນ ທີ່ສູ ງ

ເພື່ອໃຊ້ເປັນສ່ວນປະສົມ ໃນການເຮັດຢາພື້ນເມືອງຈີນ, ເສືອປ່າ ສາມາດ ມີລາຄາ ລະຫວ່າງ US$10.000 ຈົນເຖິງ US$70.000 ຢູ່ຕະຫຼາດຜິດກົດໝາຍໃນສາກົນ.

ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດ ທີ່ໃຫຍ່ທີ່ສຸດ ຂອງ ສປປ ລາວ, ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດ ນໍ້າແອດ-ພູເລີຍ ແມ່ນໜຶ່ງໃນສະໜາມ ຮົບສຸດທ້າຍທີ່ຈະຕັດສິນການມີຊີວິດຢູ່ລອດ ຂອງເສືອແນວພັນ ຕ່າ ງໆ ມັນ ແມ່ນ ສະຖານທີ່ດ ຽວທີ່ເ ຫຼື ອ ຢູ່ທີ່ມີ ກ ານແຜ່ພັນ ເສື ອ ແບບທຳ�ມະຊາດ ແລະ ມີຈໍານວນເສືອ ລະຫວ່າງ 7 ແລະ 23 ໂຕ ເຫຼືອຢູ່ໃນປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງນີ້, ແຕ່ລະໂຕ ທີ່ຖືກລ່າ ເຮັດໃຫ້ປະຊາ ກອນເສືອຫຍັບໃກ້ເຂົ້າສູ່ການສູນພັນ. ເສືອ ແມ່ນໜຶ່ງໃນຈໍານວນແນວພັນສັດຕ່າງໆ ທີ່ມີຄວາມສ່ຽງສູນ ພັນ ໂຄງການອະນຸລັກສັດປ່າ (Wildlife Conservation Society) ມີຄວາມຫວັງວ່າ ຈະສາມາດຊ່ວຍອະນຸລັກພວກເຂົາ ໄວ້ໄດ້, ເມື່ອໂຄງການໄດ້ເລີ່ມໂຄງການການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ Nam Nern Night Safari ໃນເຂດປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງນີ້ ໃນປີ 2009 ການປະຕິບັດຢູ່ ລະຫວ່າງການອະນຸລັກ ຊະນິດແນວພັນສັດປ່າ ແລະ ການເຄົາລົບຕໍ່ສິດຂອງຄົນທ້ອງຖິ່ນຂອງລາວໃນການລ່າ ສັດ ເພື່ອການຢູ່ລອດ, ອົງການ WCS ໄດ້ສ້າງແຜນການທີ່ສະຫຼາດ ຂຶ້ນເໝືອນດັ່ງເສືອທີ່ສະຫຼາດ. ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ໄດ້ຮັບການຕອບສະໜອງ ນໍາທ່ຽວ ແບບນັ່ງຢູ່ເຮືອ ລ່ອງໄປຕາມແມ່ນໍ້າ ໂດຍການມອດຈັກເຮືອໃສ່ໄຟສາຍເທິງຫົວ ເພື່ອໃຊ້ເຍືອງເບິ່ງສັດປ່າ, ແຕ່ວ່າຄວາມສະຫຼາດ ແມ່ນຢູ່ທີ່ການ ຈ່າ ຍ ຂອງນັກ ທ່ອ ງທ່ຽ ວຈ່າ ຍແມ່ນ ໄດ້ປ ະກອບສ່ວ ນເຂົ້າ ນໍາ, ສໍາລັບສັດແຕ່ລະຊະນິດທີ່ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວເຫັນ ເງິນ ແມ່ນຈະຖືກ ຈ່າ ຍໃຫ້ແ ກ່ກ ອງທຶ ນ ພັດ ທະນາໝູ່ບ້າ ນ,ອີ ງ ຕາມຄວາມຫາຍາກ ຂອງຊະນິດສັດປ່າ ດັ່ງກ່າວ ສິ່ງນີ້ ໄດ້ ເປັນສິ່ງຂັບເຄື່ອນໂດຍກົງ ໃນການອະນຸລັກ ແລະ ສາມາດເຫັນເປັນຮູບປະທຳ� ຄຸນຄ່າຂອງ ເງິນຕາມສັດທີ່ຍັງມີຊີວິດຢູ່.

ເມື່ອຊາວບ້ານລ່າສັດໜ້ອຍລົງ ຈໍານວນເງິນໄຫຼເຂົ້າໝູ່ບ້ານຈະ ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ ຈາກການທີ່ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ເຫັນສັດປ່າເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ ມັນແມ່ນ ຂະບວນການທີ່ພວກເຂົາ ສາມາດເຫັນໄດ້ຈາກວຽກທີ່ພວກເຂົາ ເຮັດເອງ, ການເຫັນສັດຫາຍາກ ໄດ້ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ ຈາກປະມານ 2 ໂຕ ຕໍ່ເຮືອລໍາໜຶ່ງ ໃນປີ 2008-2009 ມາເປັນເກືອບ 5 ໂຕ ຕໍ່ເຮືອລໍາໜຶ່ງໃນປີ 2012-2013.

27


Swapping guns for headlamps

The safari needed highly skilled guides, capable of spotting animals in the pitch black. The answer they found was ironic and ingenious – the former hunters were offered jobs as guides, conditional to them giving up their old trade. “The guides are really amazing with finding wildlife. About half of the wildlife that they see, tourists cannot see because it is so difficult to [spot] animals at night,” Paul Eshoo, an ecotourism advisor for the WCS who oversees the safari, says. But the transition from hunter to peaceful observer isn’t always an easy one, with some finding it difficult to spot wildlife while with tourists and then not return to the place of the sighting later to hunt. “Each guide signs a contract with the protected area and village that states that if they go hunting inside the core zone illegally, then they will lose their opportunity to be a guide,” he says. “Although most of our guides have adhered to the contract, unfortunately, some have broken the contract.” The guides are actually allowed to continue hunting sustainably outside the main protected area, as “it's actually not illegal for forest-edged communities to hunt non-protected species, such as wild pig, using traditional methods in their village use area”, Mr Eshoo says.

ປ່ຽນຈາກ ຈັບປືນ ມາໃສ່ໂຄມໄຟສາຍເທິງຫົວ ເຍືອງທາງ ເພື່ອການ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວປ່າກາງຄືນ safari ຕ້ອງການຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວທີ່ມີປະສົບການ ມີຄວາມສາມາດ ໃນການ ເຍືອງຫາສັດປ່າໃນບ່ອນມືດໄດ້ ຄໍາຕອບທີ່ພວກເຂົາໄດ້ ແມ່ນສະຫຼາດຫຼາຍ, ນັກລ່າສັດເກົ່າ ໄດ້ຖືກ ສະເໜີໃຫ້ຮັບໜ້າທີ່ເປັນຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວ ຊຶ່ງມີເງື່ອນໄຂວ່າພວກເຂົາຕ້ອງຢຸດເຊົາອາຊີບເກົ່າ. “ຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວ ແມ່ນມີຄວາມສາມາດທີ່ໜ້າອັດສະຈັນຫຼາຍ ໃນການເຍືອງຫາສັດປ່າປະມານເຄິ່ງໜຶ່ງ ຂອງສັດປ່າທີ່ພວກເຂົາເຫັນ, ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວແມ່ນບໍ່ສາມາດເຫັນເນື່ອງຈາກວ່າມັນແມ່ນເລື່ອງທີ່ຍາກ ຫຼາຍ ທີ່ຈະເຍືອງໄຟຫາສັດປ່າໃນເວລາກາງຄືນ” ທ່ານ Paul Eshoo, ຜູ້ແນະນໍາດ້ານການ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວອະນຸລັກ ໃຫ້ແກ່ອົງການ WCS ຜູ້ທີ່ໃຫ້ຄໍາແນະນໍາ ໂຄງການທ່ອງທ່ຽວປ່າກາງຄືນ ກ່າວ. ແຕ່ການຫັນປ່ຽນຈາກນັກລ່າ ມາເປັນຜູ້ສັງເກດການທີ່ງຽບສະຫງົບບໍ່ແມ່ນເລື່ອງທີ່ງ່າຍສະເໝີໄປ ຊຶ່ງມັນຍາກທີ່ຈະເຍືອງເຫັນສັດປ່າໃນຂະນະທີ່ຢູ່ກັບນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ແລະ ບໍ່ຢາກກັບຄືນ ມາເພື່ອລ່າ. “ຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວແຕ່ລະຄົນ ໄດ້ເຊັນສັນຍາ ກັບເຂດສະຫງວນ ແລະ ບ້ານ ກ່າວວ່າ ຖ້າພວກເຂົາໄປລ່າສັດ ຢ່າງຜິດກົດໝາຍ ໃນເຂດອະນຸລັກ, ພວກເຂົາຈະເສຍໂອກາດໃນການເຮັດວຽກເປັນອາຊີບຜູ້ນໍາ ທ່ຽວ”, ທ່ານ ກ່າວ. “ເຖິງແມ່ນວ່າ ຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວຂອງພວກເຮົາທັງໝົດໄດ້ເຊັນສັນຍາແລ້ວ ແຕ່ບາງຄົນກໍ ຍັງລະເມີດສັນຍາ”. ຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວ ແມ່ນໄດ້ຮັບອະນຸຍາດໃຫ້ສືບຕໍ່ລ່າສັດແບບຍືນຍົງ ນອກເຂດອະນຸລັກ ເນື່ອງຈາກ ວ່າ “ມັນບໍ່ແມ່ນສິ່ງຜິດກົດໝາຍ ໃນການລ່າສັດ ຢູ່ເຂດຊຸມຊົນແຄມປ່າ ທີ່ບໍ່ແມ່ນສັດຫວງຫ້າມ ເຊັ່ນ: ໝູປ່າ, ການນໍາໃຊ້ເຄື່ອງມືຫາປາແບບດັ້ງເດີມ ໃນເຂດ ນໍາໃຊ້ຂອງໝູ່ບ້ານ”, ທ່ານ Eshoo ກ່າວ.

28


When the cats are away, the prey will play: measures of success

ເມື່ອແມວບໍ່ຢູ່ ໜູກໍມ່ວນຊື່ນ ການວັດແທກຄວາມສໍາເລັດ

Mr Eshoo says threats to wildlife in Nam Et - Phou Louey are rising. Villagers still lay metal snare traps to snag tigers and other large animals near their fields.

ທ່ານ Eshoo ກ່າວວ່າ: ໄພຂົ່ມຂູ່ຕໍ່ສັດປ່າ ໃນເຂດນໍ້າແອດ-ພູເລີຍ ແມ່ນມີເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ ຊາວບ້ານ ຍັງຫ້າງແຫ້ວທີ່ເຮັດດ້ວຍເຫຼັກ ເພື່ອຈັບເສືອ ແລະ ສັ​ັດໃຫຍ່ອື່ນໆໃກ້ທົ່ງນາ ຂອງພວກເຂົາ.

And yet in the Nam Nern area specifically, the programme seems to be yielding some results. “It seems that threats in the Nam Nern area have not increased as much as other areas and have flatlined over the past two years,” Mr Eshoo says. With pressures on the park so high, achieving a plateau is a victory in itself.

ຍັງບໍ່ເທົ່ານັ້ນ, ສະເພາະໃນເຂດນໍ້າເນີນໂຄງການ ແມ່ນສົ່ງຜົນບາງຢ່າງໃຫ້ເຫັນ. “ສັງເກດເຫັນວ່າ ໄພຂົ່ມຂູ່ໃນເຂດນໍ້າເນີນ ແມ່ນບໍ່ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ ຫຼາຍເທົ່າກັບເຂດອື່ນ ແລະ ບໍ່ເພິີ່ມຂຶ້ນໃນໄລຍະ 2 ປີຜ່ານມາ”, ທ່ານ Eshoo ກ່າວ. ເນື່ອງຈາກຄວາມກົດດັນໃນ ເຂດປ່າສະຫງວນມີຫຼາຍ, ຄວາມສໍາເລັດໃນເຂດພູພຽງແມ່ນໄຊຊະນະໃນຕົວເອງແລ້ວ.

Tigers remain at critical risk. With the number remaining possibly as low as seven, even one or two poached in a year could send the population into an irreversible downwards spiral. A whole host of other animals, meanwhile, are seeing good results. “There are many ungulates that tourists see regularly and which seem to be doing well, including Sambar deer and barking deer. Other commonly seen species include civets . . . , loris and monitor lizards. We have also seen bears, Asian golden cat and dhole (a wild dog) along the river, which is a very good sign,” Mr Eshoo says. Residents in the area have been calling for more tourism to bring more money into the village. Mr Eshoo says the Night Safari has had 500 visitors so far, but needs more to keep the conservation incentives strong.

ເສືອ ແມ່ນຍັງຢູ່ໃນອັດຕາສ່ຽງຕໍ່ການສູນພັນ ດ້ວຍຈໍານວນທີ່ຍັງເຫຼືອຢູ່ ອາດຈະມີຕໍ່າ ເຖິງ 7 ໂຕ ເຖິງແມ່ນວ່າການຖືກລ່າ 1 ຫຼື 2 ໂຕ ຕໍ່ປີ ກໍສາມາດເຮັດໃຫ້ຈໍານວນປະຊາ ກອນເສືອສູນພັນຢ່າງຖາວອນໄດ້. ສັດປ່າປະເພດອື່ນໆ ໃນຂະນະນີ້ ແມ່ນຍັງຢູ່ໃນທ່ວງທ່າດີຢູ່. “ມີສັດ 4 ຕີນຫຼາຍຊະນິດ ທີ່ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວເຫັນເປັນປະຈໍາ ແລະ ພວກເຂົາ ກໍດໍາລົງຊີວດ ິ ດີຢູ່ ຊຶ່ງລວມມີ ກວາງ ແຊມບາ (Sambar deer) ແລະ ໂຕເກ້ງ (barking deer) ສັດປ່າຊະນິດອື່ນໆທີ່ເຫັນ ເປັນປະຈໍາ ລວມມີ civets, . . . , ລີງລົມ (loris) ແລະ ແລນ (monitor lizards). ພວກເຮົາຍັງເຫັນ ໝີ ແມວຄໍາ ອາຊຽນ (Asian golden cat) ແລະ ໝາປ່າ (dhole) ຕາມແຄມແມ່ນໍ້າ ຊຶ່ງເປັນສັນຍະລັກອັນດີ”, ທ່ານ Eshoo ກ່າວ. ຊາວບ້ານໃນເຂດພື້ນທີ່ ຂໍໃຫ້ມນ ີ ັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວຫຼາຍຂຶ້ນ ເພື່ອນໍາເງິນຕາເຂົ້າມາສູ່ໝູ່ ບ້ານ, ທ່ານ Eshoo ກ່າວວ່າ: ໂຄງການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ Night Safari ໄດ້ມແ ີ ຂກປະມານ 500 ຄົນຜ່ານມາ, ແຕ່ຍັງຕ້ອງການຫຼາຍຕື່ມ ເພື່ອເຮັດໃຫ້ການຂັບເຄື່ອນການອະນຸລັກ ເຂັ້ມແຂງຂຶ້ນ.

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Primates, pigs and pythons: the animals you might see Species that might be seen on the safari include Sambar deer, various species of civets, barking deer, otters, Asian golden cats, dhole, sun bears, pythons, lorises, Chinese serow, hog badgers, porcupines, spotted Linsang, wild pigs, monitor lizards, bears and macaques. Tiger sightings are extremely rare – evidence of their tracks, a little less so.

Animal recovery, by numbers Global Indo-Chinese population as of 2007 when last surveyed: Less than 2,500, according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature. Indo-Chinese tigers left in China: 0 Indo-Chinese tigers in Nam Et - Phou Louey: 7 - 23 Average rare animal sightings per Night Safari boat in 2008-09: 2 Average rare animal sightings per Night Safari boat in 2012-13: nearly 5

ສັດຈໍາພວກລີງ ໝູ ແລະ ງູເຫຼືອມ ສັດທີ່ທາ່ ນອາດ ເຫັນໃນການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ຊະນິດສັດປ່າ ທີ່ທ່ານສາມາດເຫັນ ໃນຂະນະທ່ອງທ່ຽວປ່າກາງຄືນ ລວມມີ ກວາງ ແຊມບາ (Sambar deer) ສັດທີ່ຄ້າຍຄືແມວ (civets ) ຊະນິດຕ່າງໆ ເກ້ງ (barking deer) ນາກນໍ້າ (otters) ແມວສີທອງເອເຊຍ (Asian golden cats) ໝາປ່າ (dhole) ໝີ (sun bears) ງູເຫຼືອມ (pythons) ລີງລົມ (lorises) ແບ້ຈນ ີ (Chinese serow), ສັດຄ້າຍໝູ (hog badgers), ເໝັ້ນ (porcupines) spotted Linsang ໝູປ່າ ແລນ (monitor lizards) ໝີ (bears) and ລີງ (macaques) ການເຫັນເສືອແມ່ນ ເປັນເລື່ອງທີ່ຫາຍາກຫຼາຍ ການເຫັນຮ່ອງຮອຍເສືອ ກໍແມ່ນພົບ ເຫັນໜ້ອຍທີ່ສດ ຸ .

ຕາຕະລາງກໍານົດການເດີນທາງ • ຈໍານວນ ເສືອ ພັນອິນໂດຈີນທົ່ວໂລກ, ໃນປີ 2007 ການສໍາຫຼວດຄັ້ງຫຼ້າສຸດ: ນ້ອຍກວ່າ 2,500 ໂຕ *ອີງຕາມ ອົງການ ອະນຸລັກທຳມະຊາດສາກົນ (IUCN) • ເສືອ ພັນອິນໂດຈີນເຫຼືອຢູ່ຈີນ: 0 • ເສືອ ພັນອິນໂດຈີນ ໃນປ່າສະຫງວນນໍ້າແອດ-ພູເລີຍ ແມ່ນ: 7 – 23 ໂຕ • ການເຫັນສັດທີ່ຫາຍາກ ສະເລ່ຍ ຕໍ່ເຮືອລໍາໜຶ່ງຂອງການທ່ອງທ່ຽວປ່າກາງຄືນ Night Safari ໃນປີ 2008-2009 ແມ່ນ: 2 ໂຕ • ການເຫັນສັດທີ່ຫາຍາກ ສະເລ່ຍ ຕໍ່ເຮືອລໍາໜຶ່ງຂອງການທ່ອງທ່ຽວປ່າກາງຄືນ Night Safari ໃນປີ 2012-2013 ແມ່ນ: ເກືອບ 5 ໂຕ

ຕາຕະລາງກໍານົດການເດີນທາງ

The Itinerary When visiting the Nam Nern Night Safari, most tourists start from Viengthong (which has recently been renamed Muang Hiem), where the park headquarters are, but the tour starts in the nearby village of Ban Son Koua. From the village, you travel by boat upriver on the Nam Nern, stopping at a “sanam” – a temporary settlement where villagers stay during the rice planting season.

ເມື່ອທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ໃນລາຍການທ່ຽວ Nam Nern Night Safari ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວທັງໝົດ ແມ່ ນ ເລີ່ ມ ຈາກເມື ອ ງວຽງທອງ (ຊຶ່ ງ ໃນມໍ່ ໆ ມານີ້ ໄດ້ ຖື ກ ປ່ ຽ ນຊື່ ມ າເປັ ນ ເມື ອ ງຮ້ ຽ ມ) ບ່ ອ ນທີ່ ຫ້ ອ ງການຫຼັ ກ ຂອງປ່ າ ສະຫງວນຕັ້ ງ ຢູ່ , ແຕ່ ກ ານທ່ ອ ງທ່ ຽ ວ ແມ່ ນ ເລີ່ ມ ຈາກ ບ້ານທີ່ຢູ່ໃກ້ຄຽງ ຊຶ່ງແມ່ນ ບ້ານສົ້ນຂົວ, ຈາກບ້ານນີ້ ທ່ານຈະໄດ້ເດີນທາງດ້ວຍເຮືອ ຂີ່ ຂຶ້ ນ ຕາມແມ່ ນໍ້ າ ເນີ ນ , ຈຸ ດ ຢູ່ “ສະໜາມ” ທີ່ ພັ ກ ຊົ່ ວ ຄາວ ບ່ ອ ນທີ່ ຊ າວບ້ າ ນອາໄສຢູ່ ໃນລະຫວ່າງລະດູເຮັດນາ.

The river then leads into the national park. If conditions are right, tourists can visit a mineral lick to see animal tracks. In the evening, visitors eat a localstyle picnic dinner. The guides might then tell some local folktales before the boats set off for the Night Safari itself, where the guides help tourists spot rare wildlife with headlamps.

ຂີ່ຂຶ້ນຕາມລໍາແມ່ນໍ້າ ແລະ ເຂົ້າໄປຫາເຂດປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດ ຖ້າເງື່ອນໄຂອໍານວຍ ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວຈະໄດ້ຢ້ຽມຢາມບໍ່ແຮ່ທາດ ທີ່ສັດມັກໄປເລຍກິນ (mineral lick) ເພື່ອເບິ່ງ ຮ່ອງຮອຍ ສັດ. ໃນຕອນແລງ, ແຂກຈະໄດ້ຮັບປະທານອາຫານຄໍ່າ ກິນເຂົ້າປ່າແບບ ພື້ນບ້ານ ຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວ ອາດຈະເລົ່ານິທານ ຫຼືເລື່ອງລາວພາຍໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນໃຫ້ທ່ານຟັງ ກ່ອນ ທີ່ເຮືອຈະເລີ່ມອອກສໍາຫຼວດປ່າໃນເວລາກາງຄືນ Night Safari ຊຶ່ງຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວທີ່ເປັນຄົນ ທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ຈະຊ່ວຍເຍືອງໄຟສາຍທີ່ຕິດຢູ່ຫົວຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າ ຫາສັດປ່າທີ່ຫາຍາກ ແລະ ສັນຍານໃຫ້ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວໄດ້ເບິ່ງ.

Visitors stay overnight in an eco-lodge built by the community inside the national park. In the morning, the guides take you for a walk around the camp to an old stupa where they tell you about the history of the village before and during the Secret War, and teach you about medicinal plants that they find along the way. After breakfast, the boats float downriver to look at birds and take in the natural sights and sounds. The trip returns to the village by about 11am the next day.

ບັນດາແຂກ ຈະໄດ້ນອນພັກ ທີ່ເຮືອນພັກໄມ້ບາງກະໂລ ໃນເຂດປ່າສະຫງວນ ຊຶ່ງເຮືອນ ພັກ ແມ່ນສ້າງໂດຍຊຸມຊົນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ, ໃນຕອນເຊົ້າ ຜູ້ນໍາທ່ຽວຈະພາທ່ານຍ່າງທ່ຽວຊົມບໍລິ ເວນອ້ອມແອ້ມທີ່ພັກ ເພື່ອໄປເບິ່ງທາດເກົ່າ ຊຶ່ງພວກເຂົາຈະເລົ່າໃຫ້ທ່ານຮູ້ກ່ຽວກັບປະ ຫວັດ ຂອງບ້ານ ກ່ອນ ແລະ ຫຼັງ ສົງຄາມທີ່ລກ ຶ ລັບ (Secret War) ແລະ ໃຫ້ຂມ ໍ້ ນ ູ ແກ່ທາ ່ ນ ກ່ຽວກັບພືດເປັນຢາຕ່າງໆ ທີ່ພົບເຫັນຕາມທາງ ຫຼັງຈາກຮັບປະທານອາຫານເຊົ້າແລ້ວ ແຂກຈະໄດ້ຂີ່ເຮືອລ່ອງຕາມລໍາແມ່ນໍ້າ ເພື່ອເບິ່ງນົກ ແລະ ຊົມ-ຟັງສຽງຂອງທຳມະຊາດ, ກຸ່ມນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວເດີນທາງ ກັບຄືນເຂົ້າມາບ້ານສົ້ນຂົວ ໃນເວລາ 11.00 ໂມງ ໃນມື້ຕໍ່ມາ.

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SABAIDEE COVER words Kate Antonas photos Nadine Dayag

A flourishing dining scene has already established Vientiane as a regional culinary hotspot, and what better to complement the ever-growing international fare on offer than an emerging cocktail culture. Leading the charge is a smattering of cool, quirky and refreshingly unpretentious drinking destinations popping up across the capital, serving up impeccably executed blends of top shelf liqueurs and quality local ingredients. These days, the city’s cosy small bars and inventive eateries are crafting some of the best cocktails this side of the Mekong, ideal for an end of week wind down, after dark aperitif, or low-key nightcap. From a perfectly minty mojito to a delightful daiquiri, Sabaidee Magazine visited a handful of the city’s best cocktail haunts to sample their signature concoctions. Of course, there’s many more delicious brews for you to sip, so we’ve left room for you to uncover your own favourite watering holes too. As always, drink responsibly and if you’re planning a night out, be sure to arrange a taxi or tuk tuk to get you home safely.

ເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວ

ການເກັບຕົວຢ່າງຄ໋ອກເທວຣົດຊາດດີ ທີ່ຄົນສ່ວນໃຫຍ່ນຍ ິ ົມດື່ມ ພາບອາຫານທີ່ຫຼູຫຼາ ໄດ້ມຢ ີ ູ່ໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນຮຽບຮ້ອຍນີ້ຄຈ ື ດ ຸ ສູນກາງອາຫານລະດັບພາກພື້ນ ແລະ ສິ່ງທີ່ດກ ີ ວ່າເພື່ອຕື່ມເຕັມຄວາມສະເໝີພາບລະດັບສາກົນໃນການໃຫ້ຫຼາຍກວ່າວັດທະນະທຳ�ເຄື່ອງດື່ມ

ຄ໋ອກເທວທີ່ເກີດໃໝ່ ຈຸດໝາຍປາຍທາງຂອງການດື່ມແບບເຢັນໆ ແປກປະຫຼາດສົດຊື່ນແບບເບົາໆ ແມ່ນໄດ້ເກີດຂຶ້ນທົ່ວຕົວເມືອງ ເສີບແບບປະສົມປະສານກັບເຄື່ອງດື່ມຂອງສັງຄົມຊັ້ນສູງ ແລະສ່ວນ ປະສົມທ້ອງຖິ່ນທີ່ມີຄຸນນະພາບ

ຈາກ Minty mojito ທີ່ສົມບູນຫາ Delightful daiquiri ວາລະສານ “ສະບາຍດີ” ໄດ້ຢ້ຽມຢາມ

ສ່ວນໜຶ່ງຂອງຮ້ານເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວທີ່ດສ ີ ດ ຸ ຂອງເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ເພື່ອເປັນຕົວຢ່າງເຄື່ອງໝາຍຂອງ ເຄື່ອງດື່ມດັ່ງກ່າວ

ແນ່ນອນມີເຫຼົ້າຫຼາຍປະເພດມີລົດຊາດທີ່ແຊບກວ່າສໍາລັບທ່ານເພື່ອທີ່ຈະຊີມ

ສະນັ້ນ ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ໃຫ້ທ່ານຄົ້ນພົບກັບແນວທາງເຄື່ອງດື່ມ ທີ່ທ່ານນິຍົມຊົມຊອບດື່ມຕະຫຼອດ ດື່ມຢ່າງມີຄວາມຮັບຜິດຊອບ ແລະ ຖ້າທ່ານພວມວາງແຜນທີ່ຈະອອກທ່ຽວກາງຄືນ ໃຫ້ແນ່ໃຈ

ວ່າຕ້ອງໃຊ້ບໍລິການລົດໂດຍສານມວນຊົນປະຈໍາທາງ (ລົດເມ ເທັກຊີ ຫຼື ຕຸກໆ ເພື່ອຈະກັບເຖິງ ເຮືອນຢ່າງປອດໄພ

| Jai, head bartender at The Spirit House. |

32


THE SPIRIT HOUSE’S

| The Spirit House's Pimms Julep. |

PIMMS JULEP Resembling a life-size version of its namesake, The Spirit House has forged a reputation as the riverside go-to for a quality drop in Vientiane. This bar-cumrestaurant boasts what just might be most extensive menu of original cocktails in the city – and quite possibly the country. Head bartender Jai has honed his craft behind the bar for the past seven years, receiving training from an experienced New Zealand-based mixologist, and leads his team in creating inventive takes on classics like the East & Tonic – Gordon’s London dry infused with Japanese green tea and Lao honey, fresh lime and tonic water, and the Castro’s Mojito – a truly Lao spin on the Cuban Classic topped with icy Beerlao. Of course, you’ll also find old favourites like Negroni, Daiquiri and Caipirinha, but with names like Zen Master and Mekong High Tea on the menu, it can be difficult not to satiate your curiosity. Undoubtedly The Spirit House’s signature concoction is the Pimms Julep, touted as the comeback of the quintessential English aperitif, a tantalising combination of strawberry puree (made with fresh berries no less) muddled with mint and lime, and topped with ginger ale. The result is refreshing and fruity, with the tart strawberry flavour perfectly balanced by the blend of cool mint and ginger. Jai says the Pimms Julep is the most popular cocktail, particularly in the summer months, and on some nights the staff will make up to 30 of these. Pull up a chair in the airy timber-decked interior, or claim a table on the sprawling leafy terrace which looks directly out onto the Mekong – perfect for a relaxed sundowner under the bar’s iconic red umbrellas. Pair your drink of choice with a selection of moreish European-inspired tapas like the legendary blue cheese and pumpkin arancini, or regional bar snacks like Kai Hun – fried river-weed with sesame, cherry tomato and garlic. Happy Hour: Daily 5pm-8pm, 25% off all cocktails O: Daily 7am-11pm A: 93/09 Fa Ngum Road, Ban Seetarn Neua T: 021 243 795 W: www.thespirithouselaos.com

Pimms Julep ຂອງຮ້ານ Spirit House ຮ້ານ Spirit House ແມ່ນໄດ້ເກັບຫຼໍ່ຫຼອມຊື່ສຽງ ຄືເປັນສະຖານທີ່ດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວທີ່ມີຄຸນນະພາບ ໃນເມື ອ ງວຽງຈັນ , ຮ້າ ນອາຫານ ພ້ອ ມດ້ວ ຍ ບາ ມີ ຫຍັງ ແດ່ ທີ່ອ າດຈະເປັ ນ ເມນູ ເ ຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວແບບດັ້ງ ເດີ ມ ທີ່ດີ ທີ່ສຸ ດ ໃນເມື ອ ງ ແລະ ເປັ ນ ໄປໄດ້ໃ ນທົ່ວ ປະເທດ. ຫົວ ໜ້າ ບາເທນເດີ້ ທ່ານ ໃຈ ໄດ້ພັດທະນາຝີມືຂອງລາວ ມາເປັນເວລາ 7 ປີ ແລະ ນໍາທີມງານຂອງ ລາວ ໃນການສ້າງສັນເຄື່ອງດື່ມແບບຄາດຊິກ ຄືກັບຕະວັນອອກ ແລະ ໂທນິກລອນດອນຂອງ ກາດອນແຫ້ງ ປະສົມກັບຊາຂຽວຍີ່ປຸ່ນ ແລະນ້ຳ�ເຜິ້ງລາວ ໝາກນາວສົດໆ ແລະນໍ້າໂທນິກ ແລະ Castro’s Mojito ປັ່ນແບບຄິວບາຄາດຊິກ ປະສົມກັບ ເບຍລາວເຢັນໆ. ແນ່ນອນ ທ່ານຈະພົບ ກັບລາຍການເຄື່ອງດື່ມທີ່ມັກ ເຊັ່ນ Negroni, Daiquiri Caipirinha, ແຕ່ວ່າ ໃສ່ຊື່ໃໝ່ເຊັ່ນ Zen Master ແລະ Mekong High Tea ຕາມລາຍການເຄື່ອງດື່ມ, ອາດຈະເປັນເລື່ອງຍາກທີ່ບໍ່ຕອບ ສະໜອງຄວາມຢາກຮູ້ຢາກເຫັນຂອງທ່ານ. ເຄື່ອງດື່ມປະສົມທີ່ເປັນສັນຍະລັກຂອງຮ້ານ Spirit House ແມ່ນ Pimms Julep ຄືເປັນການກັບ ມາຂອງເຫຼົ້າອັງກິດທົ່ວໄປ ປະສົມປະສານລະຫວ່າງພູລີ ສະຕໍເບີຣີສົດໆ ປົນກັບມິນ ກັບໝາກ ນາວ ແລະ ໂຮຍດ້ວ ຍນໍ້າຂີ ງ ຜົນຄື ເປັ ນໝາກໄມ້ສົດໆ ແລະສົດຊື່ນ ດ້ວ ຍລົດຊາດສະຕໍ ເ ບີ ຣີ ທີ່ສົມບູນ ຊຶ່ງປະສົມກັບມິນເຢັນ ແລະ ຂີງ. ທ່ານ ໃຈໄດ້ກ່າວວ່າ: Pimms Julep ແມ່ນເຄື່ອງດື່ມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວທີ່ນິ ຍົມ ທີ່ສຸ ດ ໂດຍສະເພາະ ໃນໄລຍະເດື ອ ນໃນລະດູ ຮ້ອ ນ ແລະ ໃນບາງຄໍ່າຄື ນ ພະນັກງານຈະປະສົມເຄື່ອງດື່ມດັ່ງກ່າວ ເຖິງ 30 ເທື່ອ. ດຶງຕັ່ງອີ້ໄມ້ ທີ່ປະດັບພາຍໃນ ຫຼືຮ້ອງຂໍໂຕະຕາມລະບຽງ ເພື່ອສາມາດເບິ່ງເຫັນແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງໂດຍ ກົງ ທີ່ສຸດ ສຳ�ລັບການພັກຜ່ອນ ຂອງຄົນມັກເບິ່ງຕາເວັນຕົກດິນ ພາຍໃຕ້ຄັນຮົ່ມສີແດງສັນຍະລັກ ຂອງບາ. ເລືອກເຄື່ອງດື່ມຂອງທ່ານຕາມໃຈມັກ ກັບການຄັດເລືອກ ທາປາສ ໂມລີສ ຄືເປັນຊີດບູ ໃນຕໍານານ ແລະ arancini ໝາກອຶ ຫຼື ອາຫານວ່າງຂອງບາຕາມພາກພື້ນ ເຊັ່ນ: ໄກ່ຫຸ່ນ. ເປີດບໍລິການ: ທຸກໆມື້ 17.00 – 20.00 ໂມງ, ຫຼຸດ 25% ຂອງລາຄາເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວ A: 93/09 ຖະໜົນຟ້າງື່ມ, ບ້ານສີຖານເໜືອ T: 021 243795 W: www.thespirithouselaos.com

33


PARIS COCKTAIL’S

PASSION MANGO COLLINS This is the perfect hangout to enjoy a late-night cocktail. As you’ll note from the weighty menu, there is a lot to choose from, and more often than not you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the original creations of owner and head bartender Tony. A skilled mixologist, Tony worked as a bartender for seven years in Paris before relocating to Vientiane – hence the name of his first solo venture, Paris Cocktail. He says the clientele is a mix of loyal regulars (the wall of fun Polaroid photos can attest to this) and newcomers, and he wanted to create a relaxed and homey atmosphere at the bar. With comfy couches and an extensive collection of shisha pipes and flavours, there’s certainly lots to linger for here. The menu is divided by taste preferences and there is an emphasis on incorporating fresh fruits and only top shelf liqueurs; Sweet & Sour like the Caipirinha or Japanese Choya – sake and cherry liqueur, Long Drinks like the potent classic Long Island Ice Tea or Lychee Collins, Sweet & Strong – the Paris Never Die with vodka, blue curacao and fresh passion fruit is a standout, as is the Watermelon Martini which blends fresh watermelon with vodka for a clean and crisp drink. The Sweet & Fruity selection features the bar’s signature cocktail – the Passion Mango Collins, a concoction crafted from muddling fresh passion fruit pulp, fresh mango, orange juice and vodka. Served tropical island-style with a wedge of pineapple, this is a refreshing summer indulgence. Happy Hour: Daily 7pm-8pm, 50% off cocktails O: Daily 7pm-Midnight A: Thadeua Road, Beung Khanyong T: 020 2929 5550

| Paris Cocktail's Passion Mango Collins. |

Passion Mango Collins ຂອງຮ້ານ Paris Cocktail ນີ້ເ ປັ ນ ການອອກໄປຫຼິ້ນ ທີ່ສົມ ບູ ນ ແບບ ເພື່ອ ຄວາມມ່ວ ນຊື່ນ ກັບ ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວໃນຍາມຄໍ່າຄື ນ ຄືທ່ານຈະເຫັນຈາກລາຍ ການອາຫານ ມີຫຼາຍຢ່າງໃຫ້ທ່ານເລືອກ ແລະ ຫຼາຍໄປກວ່າທີ່ທ່ານຈະຕື່ນໃຈ ຍ້ອນການສ້າງສັນເຄື່ອງດື່ມ ຄ໋ອກເທວແບບດັ້ງເດີມຂອງເຈົ້າຂອງຮ້ານ ແລະ ຫົວໜ້າບາເທັນເດີ້ Tony ລາວເຮັດວຽກດັ່ງກ່າວມາໄດ້ 7 ປີ ໃນນະຄອນຫຼວງປາຣີສ ກ່ອນຈະຍ້າຍມາຢູ່ໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ດ້ວຍເຫດນີ້ຊື່ຂອງຮ້ານ ແມ່ນ Paris Cocktail ທ່ານໂທນີ ໄດ້ກ່າວວ່າ ລູກຄ້າມີຫຼາກຫຼາຍກຸ່ມເປົ້າໝາຍ ທີ່ຈົງຮັກພັກດີ (ຝາຂອງຮູບພາລາລອຍສາມາດ ພິສດ ູ ເລື່ອງນີ້ໄດ້) ແລະ ລູກຄ້າໃໝ່ໆ ຊຶ່ງຂ້ອຍຕ້ອງການສ້າງບັນຍາກາດທີ່ຜ່ອນຄາຍ ດ້ວຍໂຊຟາແສນສະບາຍ ຊິຊາຫຼາຍລົດຊາດ ລາຍການເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ແມ່ນ ແບ່ງ ອອກຕາມລົດ ຊາດ ແລະ ເນັ້ນ ໃສ່ສ ະເພາະໝາກໄມ້ສົດ ແລະ ໃສ່ເ ທິ ງ ແກ້ວ ຂອງເຫຼົ້າ ໝາກໄມ້ສົດ ເຫຼົ້າ Caipirinha ເຫຼົ້າ ຍີ່ປຸ່ນ Choya ເຫຼົ້າ ສາເກ ເຫຼົ້າ ເຊີ ຣີ ທ່າ ນທີ່ມັກ ຜ່ອ ນຄາຍຍາວໆ ຕ້ອ ງຊິ ມ Long Island ຫຼື Lychee Collins ຫຼື Paris Never Die ວ໋ອ ດກ້າ ແລະ ໝາກໄມ້ສົດ ຈາກສວນ ຫຼື Watermelon Martini ວ໋ອ ດກ້າ ປະສົມ ກັບ ໝາກໂມສົດ ເປັນເຄື່ອງດື່ມທີ່ສົດຊື່ນ ແລະ ມີຊີວິດຊີວາ Passion Mango Collins ເປັ ນ ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວສັນ ຍະລັກ ຂອງຮ້າ ນ ເປັ ນ ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ທີ ປ ະສົມ ແລະຄັດເລືອກໄດ້ລົງຕົວທີສຸດ ທີບ່ຄວນລືມ ເປີດບໍລິການ: ທຸກໆມື້ 19.00 – 20.00 ໂມງ, ຫຼຸດ 50% ຂອງລາຄາເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວ A: ຖະໜົນທ່າເດື່ອ, ບຶງຂະຫຍອງ T: 020 2929 5550 W: www.facebook.com/pariscocktailvientiane 34

| Paris Cocktail owner and head bartender Tony. |


SUITE21’S CLASSIC MOJITO Blink and you’ll miss it! Suite21 is a hidden gem housed in an unassuming row of shops. Its location is a little further out of town, giving this effortlessly cool lounge a ‘just stumbled upon’ appeal. The stylish interior befits a hip city nightspot, but a refreshing laidback atmosphere gives Suite21 a welcoming vibe, and colourful lighting, pop-art, and menu additions like jelly shots and fishbowl cocktails, show this place knows how to have a good time. Co-owner Malie says she and partners Bob and Antony started Suite21 to fill a gap they saw in after-dark activities which often revolve around beer gardens or night clubs. Now the lounge attracts a mixed crowd of locals and international expats, who flock there nightly for their extensive cocktail menu, great selection of imported beers (including the ever-elusive Corona), and to puff on a multitude of shisha flavours. The cocktail menu includes flirty favourites like Cosmopolitan and Watermelon Pink (watermelon-infused vodka with grenadine and apple juice), classic brews like the Cuba Libre and Amaretto Sour, along with a range of martini variations like dirty, dry, and the French Martini with gin, blackberry liquor and pineapple juice. The standout is the mojito selection which includes Lychee Mojito and a passion fruit variation. Our pick is the Classic Mojito, which combines rum, lime juice, brown sugar, and perfectly pressed mint leaves over crushed ice, topped with soda water (or lemonade if you’re after something sweet), and served in an oh-so-cool mason jar. And in case you have friends joining you, any cocktail can be made into a tower that produces around 80 shots – a guaranteed party starter. Happy Hour: 10% off cocktails on the 21st of each month O: Tuesday to Sunday 8pm-Midnight A: Ban Phonesavang (between Star Pub and Sai Jai Restaurant) T: 020 7813 1388 W: www.facebook.com/Suite21Vientiane

Suite21’s Classic Mojito ຮ້ານ Suite21’s ແມ່ນຮ້ານເຮືອນທີ່ເຊື່ອງຕົວໃນເຂດຮ້ານຂາຍເຄື່ອງຢູ່ໃນຕົວເມືອງໜ້ອຍໜຶ່ງພາຍ ໃນຕົກແຕ່ງທັນສະໄໝແສງສີສົດໃນແບບ Pop Art ແລະ ເພີ່ມລາຍການເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວແບບ Jelly Shots ແລະ Fishbowl Cocktails ສະແດງໃຫ້ເຫັນວ່າສະຖານທີ່ນີ້ ຮູ້ວທ ີ ສ ີ າ ້ ງຄວາມສຸກ ທ່ານນາງ Malie ເຈົ້າຂອງຮ້ານຮ່ວມ ໄດ້ກ່າວວ່າ: ຂ້ອຍ ແລະ ຫຸ້ນສ່ວນຂອງຂ້ອຍ Bob ແລະ Antony ໄດ້ເລີ່ມສ້າງຮ້ານ Suite21’s ເພື່ອຕື່ມຊ່ອງວ່າງ ທີ່ພວກຂ້ອຍເຫັນໃນກິດຈະກໍາຍາມຄໍ່າຄືນ ຊຶ່ງວິວັດທະນາການມາຈາກສວນເບຍແລະຮ້ານບັນເທີງໃນຍາມຄ່ຳ�ຄືນຮ້ານSuite21’sໄດ້ດງຶ ດູດນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ທັງພາຍໃນ ແລະຕ່າງປະເທດເຂົ້າມາຍຽ້ມຍາມໃນຍາມຄໍ່າຄືນ ດ້ວຍລາຍການເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວ ການຄັດເລືອກເບຍນໍາເຂົ້າ ແລະ ປະສົມກັບຄວາມຫຼາກຫຼາຍຂອງ Shisha ຄ໋ອ ກເທວທີ່ລູ ກ ຄ້າ ມັກ ແມ່ນ Cosmopolitan ແລະ Watermelon Pink (Vodka ປະສົມກັບກັບໝາກໂມ ພ້ອມດ້ວຍ Grenadine ແລະ ນໍ້າໝາກແອັບເປີ້ນ) ເຫຼົ້າຄາດຊິກ ຄື Cuba Libre ແລະ Amaretto Sour ພ້ອມດ້ວຍ Martini ຫຼາກຫຼາຍແບບ ທັງແບບແຫ້ງ ມາຕີນຝ ີ ຣັ່ງ ຈິນ ແລະ ນ້ຳ�ໝາກນັດ ຄ໋ອກເທວທີ່ລກ ູ ຄ້າສ່ວນໃຫຍ່ນຍ ິ ົມດື່ມ ແມ່ນ Mojito ເຊິ່ງລວມມີ Lychee Mojito ແລະ Passion Fruit Mojito ພວກເຮົາເລືອກ Classic Mojito ຊຶ່ງມີ ລັມ ນ້ຳ�ໝາກນາວ ນ້ຳ�ຕານ ແລະ ໃບມິ້ນ ຜ່ານນໍ້າກ້ອນບົດ ໂຮຍດ້ວຍນໍ້າໂຊດາ ຫຼື ນໍ້າໝາກນາວ ທາງຮ້ານມີເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວແບບຫໍຄອຍສູງ ໃນກໍລະນີມາຫຼາຍທ່ານ ຊຶ່ງສາມາດດື່ມໄດ້ປະມານ 80 ຊັອດ ເປັນເຄື່ອງດື່ມເລີ່ມຕົ້ນສໍາລັບງານລ້ຽງພົບປະສັງສັນກັນ. ເປີດບໍລິການ: ອັງຄານ ຫາ ອາທິດ 20.00 – 24.00 ໂມງ ຫຼຸດ 10% ຂອງເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວ ໃນທຸກໆວັນທີ 21 ຂອງແຕ່ລະເດືອນ A: ບ້ານໂພນສະຫວ່າງ T: 020 78131388 W: www.facebook.com/Suite21Vientiane

| Suite21's Classic Mojito. |

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STICKY FINGERS’

TOM YUM MARTINI Sticky’s, as it’s more affectionately known, is a Vientiane institution drawing the masses to their legendary Happy Hour on Wednesday and Friday nights. The bar exudes an inviting and laidback atmosphere enhanced by the friendly staff who aim to please with great service, a fun and fruity drinks list (all cocktails can be super-sized into jugs to share with larger parties), and pub-style comfort food like fish and chips and sticky BBQ ribs. Perch on the patio for excellent downtown people watching, or hang in the colourful ground floor bar area – Aussie sports fans will appreciate the upper-level sports bar showing Australian Rules football on a big screen on the weekends. When visiting Sticky Fingers, you can’t miss sampling their star cocktail – the refreshingly piquant Tom Yum Martini. The story goes that this drink made its first appearance in Vientiane at a fundraiser night at Sticky’s, where the bar invited long-time locals with bar experience to pop behind the bar to create an original cocktail, of which a portion of the sales went to a charity project. A Danish expat created the Tom Yum Martini and it was an instant hit – quickly becoming the bar’s signature drink. Sticky’s owner Sophie says the secret to the perfect Tom Yum Martini is in the tom yum syrup that’s brewed in-house on a weekly basis. While she wouldn’t reveal the recipe, we did learn the concoction includes eight different Asian herbs, the standout ingredient being ginger. The tangy syrup is combined with vodka, a dash of lime juice and shaken over ice, and topped with a whole chilli garnish. One sip of this flavour-packed brew and you’ll be tempted to upgrade to a jug in no time! Happy Hour: Wednesday & Friday 6pm-8pm, 50% off all cocktails and jugs O: Monday to Friday 5pm-11pm, Saturday & Sunday 10am-11pm A: 1/3 Rue Francois Nginn, Ban Mixay T: 021 215 972 W: www.facebook.com/StickyFingersLaos

ຕົ້ມຍຳ�ມະຕິນີ ຂອງຮ້ານ Sticky Fingers ຮ້ານ Sticky Fingers ເປັນຮ້ານທີ່ມີບັນຍາກາດສະບາຍໆ ພ້ອມທັງພະນັກງານທີ່ເນັ້ນ ການໃຫ້ການບໍລິການເປັນເລີດ ແລະ ໜ້າເພິ່ງພໍໃຈ ມວ່ນຊື່ນຊຶ່ງລາຍການເຄື່ອງດື່ມໝາ ກໄມ້ (ເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວທັງໝົດ ສາມາດຂະຫຍາຍໃຫ້ໄດ້ໃຫຍ່ທີ່ສຸດ ເຂົ້າໃນໂຖ ເພື່ອ ແບ່ງປັນຄວາມສຸກກັບບັນດາໝູ່ເພື່ອນ) ບັນຍາກາດແບບ Pub ມີ Fish & Chip, BBQ ເມື່ອເຂົ້າມາຢ້ຽມຊົມຮ້ານ Sticky Fingers ທ່ານບໍ່ຄວນພາດເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວທີດີທີ່ສຸດ ລົດຊາດຈັດຈ້ານ ຕົ້ມຍໍາມາຕີນີ ເລື່ອງມີຢູ່ວ່າ ເຄື່ອງດື່ມນີ້ ແມ່ນປະກົດຕົວເປັນຄັ້ງທໍາອິດໃນ ເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ຢູ່ທີ່ຄໍ່າຄືນງານລ້ຽງ Fundraiser ທີ່ຮ້ານ Sticky Fingers ໂດຍຊາວເດັນມາກ ໄດ້ປະດິດຕົ້ມຍຳ�ມະຕີນີ ແລ້ວກໍເປັນທີ່ນຍ ິ ົມທັນທີ ກາຍມາເປັນເຄື່ອງດື່ມທີ່ເປັນເຄື່ອງໝາຍ ຂອງຮ້ານບາຢ່າງໄວວາ. ເຈົ້າຂອງຮ້ານ Sticky Fingers ທ່ານ ນາງ Sofie ໄດ້ກ່າວວ່າ: ຄວາມລັບໃນການເຮັດຕົ້ມຍໍາ ມາຕິ ນີ ທີ່ສຸ ດ ຍອດ ແມ່ນ ມາຈາກນ້ຳ�ຕົ້ມ ຍຳ�ທີ່ໄ ດ້ຮັບ ການຕົ້ມ ກັ່ນ ໃນຫ້ອ ງກັ່ນ ຕອງເປັ ນ ປະຈຳ�ທຸກອາທິດ, ແຕ່ຂ້ອຍບໍ່ເປີດເຜີຍສູດທັງໝົດ ຕົ້ມຍຳ�ລວມເອົາສະໝຸນໄພເອເຊຍທັງ 8 ປະເພດຕ່າງກັນ Tangy Syrup ກັບວ໋ອດກ້າ ປະສົມກັບນ້ຳ�ໝາກນາວປັ່ນໃສ່ນ້ຳ�ກ້ອນ ຕື່ມ ໝາກເຜັ ດ ການິ ສ ໂຮຍໃສ່ເ ທິ ງ ຈີ ບ ໜຶ່ງ ຂອງການຊິ ມ ລົດ ຊາດນີ້ ແລະ ຈະເຮັ ດ ໃຫ້ ຍົກລະດັບເປັນໂຖ ໃນເວລາບໍ່ຊ້າ.

| Sticky Fingers' Tom Yum Martini. |

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ເປີດບໍລກ ິ ານ: ຈັນ ຫາ ສຸກ 17.00 – 23.00 ໂມງ, ສ່ວນ ເສົາ ແລະ ອາທິດ 10.00 – 23.00 ໂມງ ທຸກວັນພຸດ ແລະ ສຸກ 18.00 – 20.00 ໂມງ, ຫຼຸດ 50% ຂອງລາຄາເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວ ແລະ ໂຖ A: 1/3 Rue Francois Nginn, ບ້ານມີໄຊ T: 021 215 972 W: www.facebook.com/StickyFingersLaos


JAZZY BRICK’S VOLCANO Escape busy Setthathirat Road and duck into Jazzy Brick, a purveyor of top cocktails in a row of cool refurbished shop houses. Exposed brickwork, vintage décor, and dim lighting make this the perfect hideaway, and the bottle-clad walls behind the ground and upper level bars attest to the extensive drinks list. There’s a few chairs in the tiny front courtyard, but you’ll find most of the regulars on the perfectly worn lounges in the loft-style upper level. For a more intimate nightcap there’s a cosy space in the far reaches of the ground floor. The cocktail list is thoughtfully divided into liquor-based categories, and here you’ll find old classics like the Manhattan, Gimlet and Tom Collins, which hark back to the old record players, radios and other 1950s oddities adorning the space. While the experienced bar staff, led by head bartender Na, are adept at the extensive menu, they are always willing to experiment and create something original and inventive to appease even the most discerning palate. Simply put, these guys know how to make an excellent drink. A prime example of this is a range of seasonal ‘off menu’ cocktails – the most popular with those in the know being the Volcano. A fruity and slightly tart blend of vodka, Cointreau, Frangelico, freshly squeezed lime juice and blended fresh mango, topped with a dash of grenadine. Made entirely from scratch, and invented by Na, it’s an experience in itself seeing the Volcano being crafted, from the pre-chilling of the glass, to the scooping of the juicy mango flesh. And like any good summertime cocktail, it’s garnished with a gleaming maraschino cherry. Sister venue popular Lao restaurant Amphone is tucked down an adjacent laneway, so order a few plates of Lao snacks to be delivered to Jazzy Brick, and settle in for the evening. Happy Hour: Daily 6pm-8pm, 50% off all cocktails O: Daily 6pm-Midnight A: 34/1 Setthathirat Road, Ban Xieng Gneun T: 021 212 489 W: www.facebook.com/jazzybricklao | Jazzy Brick's Volcano. |

Jazzy Brick’s Volcano ຮ້ານ Jazzy Brick ຢູ່ຖະໜົນເຊດຖາທິລາດ ຕົກແຕ່ງສະໄຕລ໌ວິນເທັດ ແລະ ແສງໄຟນ້ອຍໆ ເຮັດໃຫ້ເປັນ ສະຖານທີ່ພັກຜ່ອນແບບສຸດຍອດ ແລະ ຝາທີ່ສ້າງດ້ວຍຂວດແກ້ວຢູ່ດ້ານຫຼັງພື້ນ ແລະ ລາຍການເຄື່ອງດື່ມທີ່ຕິ ດກັບຝາຢູ່ດ້ານເທິງ ມີຕັ່ງອີ້ 2-3 ໜ່ວຍໃນພື້ນທີ່ດ້ານໜ້ານ້ອຍໆ ມີຫ້ອງພັກຜ່ອນໃນແບບຫຼູຫຼາລ໊ອບສະໄຕລ໌ ສໍາລັບການດື່ມເຫຼົ້າ ກ່ອນເຂົ້ານອນແບບສ່ວນຕົວ ແມ່ນມີພື້ນທີ່ກວ້າງ ແລະ ຫ່າງຈາກຊັ້ນລຸ່ມ. ລາຍການເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວ ແບ່ງ ຕາມປະເພດຂອງເຫຼົ້າ ແລະ ທີ່ນີ້ທ່າ ນຈະພົບ ແບບພື້ນ ບ້າ ນເກົ່າ ແກ່ ຄື Manhattan, Gimlet ແລະ Tom Collins ຊຶ່ງຫວນກັບຄືນມາເສບເພງປີ 1950ຈາກເຄືອງເລົ່ນແຜ່ນສຽງແບບ ເກົ່າ ຕົກແຕ່ງສະຖານທີ່ແບບເກົ່າແກ່ ພະນັກງານເສີບໃນບາທີ່ມີປະສົບການ ນໍາໂດຍຫົວໜ້າບາເທັນເດີ້ ທ່ານ ນາ ທີ່ມັກໃນການທົດລອງເລື້ອຍໆ ແລະ ປະດິດເຄື່ອງດື່ມ ແບບດັ້ງເດີມ ຫຼື ປະດິດສິ່ງໃໝ່ໆ ເພື່ອສ້າງຄວາມ ປະທັບໃຈທີ່ສຸດຂອງລົດຊາດທີ່ມີຄຸນນະພາບ ພວກເຂົາເຫຼົ່ານີ້ຮູ້ວ່າສິ່ງໃດ ທີ່ຈະເຮັດເຄື່ອງດື່ມທີ່ດີທີ່ສຸດ

| Jazzy Brick head bartender, Na. |

ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວ ທີ່ນິ ຍົມ ກັນ ທີ່ສຸ ດ ແມ່ນ Volcano ປະສົມ ປະສານລະຫວ່າ Vodka, Cointreau, Frangelico, ນ້ຳ�ໝາກນາວຄັ້ນສົດ ໝາກມ່ວງສົດໆ ແລະ ນ້ຳ� Grenadine ຕົກແຕ່ງດ້ວຍໝາກ Maraschino Cherry ເປັນເຄື່ອງດື່ມທີເຫມາະໃນລະດູຮ້ອນ ຮ້ານທີ່ຢູ່ໃນຖະໜົນແຄບໆ ຢູ່ຕິດກັນ ແມ່ນຮ້ານນ້ອງສາວ ຮ້ານອາຫານອຳ�ພອນ ສະນັ້ນ ສັ່ງອາຫານລາວ ເພື່ອກັບແກ້ມ 2-3 ຈານ ເສີບສົ່ງໂດຍກົງຫາຮ້ານ Jazzy Brick ເປີດບໍລິການ: ທຸກໆມື້ 18.00 – 20.00 ໂມງ, ຫຼຸດ 50% ສໍາລັບເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວທັງໝົດ A: 34/1 ຖະໜົນເຊດຖາທິລາດ ບ້ານຊຽງຍືນ T: 021 212489 W: www.facebook.com/jazzybricklao 37


MAKPHET’S FROZEN HIBISCUS AND LIME DAIQUIRI While definitely more of a restaurant than a bar, if you’re in search of a thirst quencher that’s frozen and fruity, you can’t look past Makphet’s daiquiri selection. The restaurant-cum-social enterprise is working to change lives and is run by Peuan Mit, founded by FriendsInternational, to provide training in hospitality to disadvantaged youth in Laos. So you won’t feel too guilty settling in for a second (or third) cocktail. The kitchen creates a medley of traditional Lao flavours executed with modern and inspired techniques, and an ever-rotating daily specials menu allows the team to experiment with bold and inventive recipes. Echoing the cuisine’s mod-Lao flair, the daiquiri range features the ultra-tropical Mango and Lime, and a kicky Pineapple and Chilli, but the real star is the Frozen Hibiscus and Lime Daiquiri; a drink that has become synonymous with any meal at Makphet. Chef Phaisy says the cocktail is the most popular item on the menu, and over the years it has become quite famous in Vientiane. It’s easy to see how this ruby red concoction caught on quickly, with the delicate roselle hibiscus and lime syrup – made in-house – offsetting the punchy rum and lime juice. To recreate any of Makphet’s cocktails or menu items at home, the recipe book ‘From Honeybees to Pepperwood’ is available to purchase from Makphet and the Friends N’ Stuff store (Rue Nokeokoummane) in downtown Vientiane. Happy Hour: Daily 5pm-7pm, 50% off all cocktails and glasses of wine O: Daily 11am-10.30pm A: 78 Ban Inpeng Vat Chanh Tha T: 021 260 587 W: www.makphet-restaurant.org | Makphet's Frozen Hibiscus and Lime Daiquiri. |

Frozen Hibiscus and Lime Daiquiri ຂອງຮ້ານ Makphet ແນ່ນ ອນ ມັນ ເປັ ນ ຫຼາຍກວ່າ ອາຫານໃນບາທົ່ວ ໄປ ຖ້າ ທ່າ ນກຳ�ລັງ ຄົ້ນ ຫາບາງຢ່າ ງທີ່ເ ຢັ ນ ໆ ແລະ ໝາກໄມ້ ທ່າ ນບໍ່ ສາມາດເບິ່ງຜ່ານການຄັດເລືອກ daiquiri ຂອງຮ້ານ Makphet. ອົງກອນຮ້ານອາຫານທາງສັງຄົມ ທີ່ພວມເຮັດວຽກ ເພື່ອປ່ຽນແປງຊີວິດ ແລະ ດຳ�ເນີນການໂດຍເພື່ອນມິດ ສ້າງຕັ້ງໂດຍອົງກອນ ເພື່ອນມິດສາກົນ ເພື່ອໃຫ້ການອົບຮົມ ກ່ຽ ວກັບ ການຕ້ອ ນຮັບ ທີ່ດີ ໃຫ້ແ ກ່ຊ າວໜຸ່ມ ທີ່ດ້ອ ຍໂອກາດໃນ ປະເທດລາວ. ສະນັ້ນ ທ່າ ນຈະບໍ່ຮູ້ສຶ ກ ຜິ ດ ຫວັງ ໃນ ການແວ່ນັ່ງ ສຳ�ລັບ ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ປະສົມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວ, ຫ້ອ ງຄົວ ແມ່ນ ການປະສົມ ປະສານຄວາມນິ ຍົມ ດັ້ງ ເດີ ມ ຂອງລາວ ປະສົມປະສານກັບເຕັກນິກທັນສະໄໝ ແລະ ມີອາຫານພິເສດແຕ່ລະມື້ ເຮັດໃຫ້ທີມງານ ໄດ້ທົດລອງກັບສູດອາຫານ ທີ່ປະດິດຂຶ້ນໃໝ່. ກ່າວເຖິງລາຍການອາຫານຫຼາຍປະເພດ daiquiri ໄດ້ມີຈຸດເດັ່ນທີ່ໝາກມ່ວງ ແລະ ໝາກນາວເຂດຮ້ອນ ໝາກນັດ ແລະ ໝາກເຜັ ດ , ແຕ່ສຸ ດ ຍອດລາຍການເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ຕົວ ຈິ ງ ແມ່ນ ແຊ່ກ ະຈຽບເຢັ ນ ແລະ ໝາກນາວ Daiquiri; ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ທີ່ໄ ດ້ກ າຍເປັ ນ ສິ່ງ ທີ່ທ່າ ນຕ້ອ ງລອງກັບ ການກິ ນ ອາຫານໃນຄາບໜຶ່ງ ທີ່ຮ້າ ນໝາກເຜັ ດ ພໍ່ຄົວ ໄພສີ ໄດ້ກ່າ ວວ່າ : ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ປະສົມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວ ແມ່ນ ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ທີ່ຍ ອດນິ ຍົມ ໃນລາຍການອາຫານ ແລະ ເປັ ນ ເວລາຫຼາຍປີ ໄດ້ເປັນຍອດນິຍມ ົ ໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ງ່າຍ ແລະ ໄວ ໃນການປະສົມເຄື່ອງດື່ມປະສົມສີແດງນິນ ກັບໝາກສົ້ມພໍດີ ແລະ ໝາກນາວເຊື່ອມ ເຮັດເອງຢູ່ໃນເຮືອນ ເຮັດເປັນເຫຼົ້ານໍ້າໝາກນາວ ແລະ ລໍາພັນຈີ. ເພື່ອ ເຮັ ດ ເຄື່ອ ງດື່ມ ຄ໋ອ ກເທວ ຫຼື ລ າຍການອາຫານ ຢູ່ໃ ນເຮື ອ ນ, ປື້ມ ສູ ດ ອາຫານ “ນ້ຳ�ເຜິ້ງ ສູ່ເ ປັ ບ ເປີ ວູ ດ ” ຈະມີຂາຍໃນຮ້ານໝາກເຜັດ ແລະ ຮ້ານຄ້າເພື່ອນມິດເອັນ (Rue Nokeokoummane) ໃນຕົວເມືອງວຽງຈັນ. ເປີດບໍລິການ: ທຸກມື້ 17.00 – 19.00 ໂມງ, ຫຼຸດ 50% ຂອງລາຄາເຄື່ອງດື່ມຄ໋ອກເທວ ແລະ ເຫຼົ້າວາຍ. A: 78 ວັດອົງຕື້ T: 021 260587 W: www.makphet-restaurant.org 38


T h e G o od G u i d e Sabaidee’s Guide to the best eats, drinks, stays, retail, luxuries and experiences in the nation’s urban centres.

This month we satisfy our sweet tooth with some of the capital’s finest dessert offerings, dine on some Nippon fare at T.O Sushi, and enjoy a quiet cup of Joe at The Little House – along with scouring the country to bring you the best of the best in our EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP and SEE & DO listings. ການແນະນໍາ ຂອງວາລະສານ “ສະບາຍດີ” ກ່ຽວກັບສະຖານທີ່ ກິນ ດື່ມ ພັກເຊົາ ຈັບຈ່າຍຊື້ເຄື່ອງ ສະຖານທີ່ຫຼູຫຼາ ແລະ ປະສົບການທີ່ດີທີ່ສຸດ ໃນເຂດບັນດາ ສູນກາງຕົວເມືອງຂອງລາວ.

I Sputnik Burger. Photo Shayling Ngo. I

ເດືອນນີ້ພວກເຮົາຈະເຮັດໃຫ້ແຂ້ວທີ່ຫວານຂອງ ທ່ານໄດ້ມີຄວາມສຸກໄປກັບອາຫານຫວານທີ່ດີທີ່ສຸດ ຂອງເມືອງ. ຮັບປະທານອາຫານຄໍ່າທີ່ຮ້ານອາຫານ ຍີ່ປຸ່ນ T.OSushiແລະ ມີຄວາມສຸກກັບການດື່ມກາເຟ ໃນບັນຍາກາດທີ່ງຽບສະຫງົບ ທີ່ຮ້ານ The Little House ພ້ອມກັບການຊອກຄົ້ນຫາພາຍໃນປະເທດ ເພື່ອສະແຫວງຫາ ສິ່ງທີ່ດີທີ່ສຸດ ຂອງທີ່ສຸດໃນເລື່ອງ ການກິນ ດື່ມ ຫຼັບນອນ ພັກຜ່ອນ ຈັບຈ່າຍຊື້ເຄື່ອງ ແລະ ລາຍການເບິ່ງ ແລະ ເຮັດຕ່າງໆ. 39


SABAIDEE'S GUIDE TO

words & photos Hannah McDonald-Moniz

Sweet T ooth: VIENTIANE’S BEST AFTER-DINNER TREATS LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO SATISFY A LATE-NIGHT SUGAR CRAVING IN THE CAPITAL? SABAIDEE MAGAZINE DISHES OUT THE DETAILS ON THE MOST DELECTABLE DESSERTS AT SOME OF VIENTIANE’S TOP EATERIES, WHERE YOU CAN INDULGE IN A SWEET TREAT AFTER DARK.

ອາຫານຫວານ: ການເລືອກສັນອາຫານຫວານທີ່ດີທີ່ສຸດ ຫຼັງຄາບເຂົ້າຕອນຄໍ່າ ໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ທ່ານກໍາລັງຊອກຫາສະຖານທີ່ ທີ່ຈະມີຄວາມສຸກ ກັບລາຍການອາຫານຫວານ ໃນຕອນເດິກບໍ່? ວາລະສານ “ສະບາຍດີ” ໄດ້ສັນຫາອາຫານຫວານ ທີ່ແຊບທີ່ສຸດ ໃນບັນດາຮ້ານອາຫານ ຢູ່ເມືອງວຽງຈັນ, ບ່ອນທີ່ທ່ານສາມາດມີຄວາມສຸກ ກັບອາຫານຫວານ ໃນຕອນເດິກ.

L’ADRESSE DE TINAY’S CRÈME BRÛLÉE This elegant French eatery is tucked down a side street downtown, and its unassuming patio opens onto a beautiful high-ceilinged salon within. After enjoying the refined French flavours of their always inventive mains, dessert is a must, with the classic crème brûlée taking the cake, so to speak. This dessert is understated and sophisticated, not overdoing the sweetness so the subtle creamy flavours prevail. Crack into the crisp caramelised goodness of the crunchy crust and enjoy the flavours of France.

T: 020 5691 3434 A: OPPOSITE WAT ONGTEU, BAN WATCHAN W: WWW.LADRESSEDETINAY.COM OPEN MONDAY TO FRIDAY 11.30AM-2PM, 6.30PM-10PM, SATURDAY 6.30AM-10PM.

PIMENTON’S WARM MILK CHOCOLATE CROISSANT PUDDING WITH WHISKY SAUCE Nothing on Pimenton’s menu seems to disappoint, and that is equally true of their sweet selection. Vientiane’s premier Spanish restaurant, this popular tapas spot serves up mouth-watering desserts. The warm milk chocolate croissant pudding breathes new life to an old classic, with delicate chunks of croissant dressed with indulgent melted milk chocolate. A drizzle of the tangy whisky sauce gives this delicious dish just the perfect amount of bite. Other favourites on the dessert menu include the Spanish classic, arroz con leche, and Pimenton’s own twist on the crème brûlée made with chocolate.

T: 021 215 506 A: RUE NOKEOUKOUMANE, BAN MIXAY W: WWW.PIMENTONRESTAURANT-VTE.COM OPEN MONDAY TO SATURDAY 11AM-11PM.

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AI CAPONE’S PANNA COTTA Ai Capone is Vientiane’s latest Italian hotspot, and the tiny eatery is packed to the brim on most evenings with diners eager to sample the authentic, homemade Italian flavours on offer. After filling up with hearty Italian fare, you may think you can eat no more, but there’s always room for one of their sumptuous desserts, and the velvety panna cotta is perfection. This pristine morsel of cream is somehow both weightless and rich and, like all dishes at Ai Capone, the presentation is inimitable, with tangy dollops of raspberry coulis to complement the creaminess.

LAO KITCHEN’S MANGO AND STICKY RICE

BISTRO 22’S CHOCOLATE FONDANT

Lao Kitchen is a favourite among expats and tourists looking to get their fill of tasty Lao classics, and their reliable renditions of traditional comfort food extend to their dessert menu as well. Mango and sticky rice may be the quintessential Thai-Lao dessert, but finding a good variation is a surprisingly difficult task in Vientiane. Lao Kitchen’s take meets the standard, with a perfectly ripe, generous half mango, accompanied by a bowl of delightfully warm sweetened sticky rice oozing with sweet and salty coconut milk.

The cosy interior of this French hideaway lends itself to intimate dinners over wine, meat, and cheese. No meal here would be complete without well-known chef Philippe’s classic dessert – the chocolate fondant. Somehow this fudgy medallion is cooked to a perfection that allows the top to be crunchy and crumbly, while the inside oozes with molten chocolate. The accompanying dollops of caramel and ice cream provide a perfectly contrasting dynamic of sweet and savoury to delight the palate.

T: 021 254 332 A: RUE HENGBOUN, BAN ANOU W: WWW.LAO-KITCHEN.COM OPEN DAILY 11AM-10PM

L’Adresse de Tinay’s Crème Brûlée ພ າ ຍ ຫຼັງ ທີ່ທ່າ ນ ໄ ດ້ມີ ຄ ວ າ ມ ສຸ ກ ກັບ ອາຫານຝຣັ່ງ ທີ່ດີ ເ ລີ ດ ໃນລາຍການຕົ້ນຕໍ ຂອງ ພໍ່ຄົວ Tinay, ລາຍການ ອາຫານ ຫວ າ ນ ທີ່ L ’ A d r e s s e ແມ່ນສິ່ງທີ່ຂາດບໍ່ໄດ້ ພ້ອມດ້ວຍ crème brûléetaking the c a k e . ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ຫວ າ ນ ນີ້ ແ ມ່ນ ມີ ຄ ວ າ ມ ຊັບ ຊ້ອ ນ , ບໍ່ຫວ ານເກີ ນ ໄປ ເພາະເພີ່ມ ລົດຊາດຄຣີມ ທີ່ລະອຽດອ່ອນ, ເພີ ດ ເພີ ນ ໄປກັບ ເຂົ້າ ໜົມ ກອບ ແລະ ລົດຊາດແບບຝຣັ່ງ. ໂທ: 020 56913434 ທີ່ຢູ່: ກົງກັນຂ້າມກັບວັດອົງຕື້, ບ້ານວັດຈັນ ເວບໄຊ: www. ladressedetinay.com, ເປີດ ວັນຈັນ ຫາ ວັນສຸກ, ເວລາ 11.30 – 14.00 ໂມງ ແລະ 18.30 – 22.00 ໂມງ ສ່ວນວັນເສົາ ເປີດເວລາ 06.30 – 22.00 ໂມງ.

T: 020 5991 0888 A: RUE FRANCOIS NGIN, BAN MIXAY W: WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/AICAPONELAOSPDR OPEN DAILY 11.30AM-10.30PM.

T: 021 21 41 29 A: RUE SAMSENTHAI, BAN KHAONYOT OPEN MONDAY TO FRIDAY 11AM-10PM, SATURDAY 6PM-10.30PM.

ຄ໋ອ ດຊອງ ຊ໋ອ ກໂກແລັ ດ ນົມ ອຸ່ນ ເພີ່ມ ຄວາມຫວານ ດ້ວ ຍຊ໋ອ ດວິ ສ ກີ (Warm Milk Chocolate Croissant Pudding with Whisky Sauce) ຂອງຮ້ານ Pimenton ບໍ່ມີ ລ າຍການອາຫານໃດ ທີ່ຮ້າ ນ Pimenton ທີ່ຈະເຮັດໃຫ້ ຜິດຫວັງ ແ ລ ະ ກໍ ຄື ກັນ ກັບ ລ າ ຍ ກ າ ນ ອາຫານຫວານ ຂອງພວກເຂົ າ . ຄ໋ອ ດ ຊ ອ ງ ຊ໋ອ ກ ໂ ກ ແ ລັ ກ ນົມ ອຸ່ນ ແມ່ນການປະສົມປະສານຢ່າງລົງຕົວ ຂອງຄ໋ອດຊອງ ກັບນົມຊ໋ອກໂກແລັດ ອຸ່ນ ,ການຕື່ມ ດ້ວ ຍຊ໋ອ ດວິ ດ ສະກີ ແທັງກີ ເຮັດໃຫ້ອາຫານຫວານຈານນີ້ ມີຄວາມພິເສດທີ່ຕ້ອງໄດ້ລອງຊີມ. ໂທ: 021 215506 ທີ່ຢູ່: ຖະໜົນນົກແກ້ວກຸມມານ, ບ້ານມີໄຊ, ເວບໄຊ: www. pimentonrestaurant-vte.com ເປີດ ວັນຈັນ ຫາ ວັນເສົາ ເວລາ 11.00 – 23.00 ໂມງ.

ເຂົ້າໜຽວໝາກມ່ວງ ຂອງ ຮ້ານອາຫານ Lao Kitchen

Bistro 22’s Chocolate Fondant

Ai Capone’s Panna Cotta

ເຂົ້າໜຽວໝາກມ່ວງ ອາດແມ່ນອາ ຫ າ ນ ຫວ າ ນ ດັ້ງ ເ ດີ ມ ຂ ອ ງ ລ າ ວ ແລະ ໄທ, ແຕ່ຈະຫາ ບ່ອນທີ່ເຮັດ ໄ ດ້ລົດ ຊ າ ດ ແ ຊ ບ ລົງ ຕົວ ແ ມ່ນ ຫາຍາກ. ໃນເມືອງວຽງຈັນ, ທີ່ຮ້ານ ອາຫານ Lao Kitchen ແມ່ນໄດ້ ມາດຕະຖານ ພ້ອມດ້ວຍໝາກມ່ວງ ປ າ ດ ເ ຄິ່ງ ທີ່ໃ ຫຍ່ ແ ລ ະ ສຸ ກ ດີ ມາພ້ອມກັບເຂົ້າໜຽວໜຶ້ງ ທີ່ຫວານ ອຸ່ນ ປະສົມ ກັບ ກະທິ ໝາກພ້າ ວ ແລະ ນໍ້າຕານ.

ບໍ່ມີ ກ າ ນ ຮັບ ປ ະ ທ າ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ເຍື່ອ ງໃດ ທີ່ຮ້າ ນ Bistro 22 ຈະສົມບູນ ໂດຍປັດສະຈາກການ ລົງ ທ້າ ຍດ້ວ ຍລາຍການອາຫານ ທີ່ຊັ້ນ ເລີ ດ ຂອງພໍ່ຄົວ Philippe ຊ໋ອກໂກແລັດ ໂຟນເດີນ (choco late fondant). ຢ່າງໃດກໍຕາມ, ຂ ະ ໜົມ ເ ຄັ ນ ນີ້ ແ ມ່ນ ໄ ດ້ຮັບ ການປຸ ງ ແຕ່ງ ໃຫ້ມີ ຄ ວາມພິ ເ ສດ ຊຶ່ງ ສ່ວ ນ ເ ທິ ງ ມີ ຄ ວ າ ມ ກ ອ ບ ໃ ນ ຂະນະທີ່ ດ້ານໃນແມ່ນ ປະກອບມີ ຊ໋ອກໂກແລັດແຫຼວ, ຕິດຕາມມາ ດ້ວຍກະແລັມຄາລາເມລ ຈະເຮັດ ໃຫ້ທ່ານມີປະສົບການອາຫານານ ທີ່ພິເສດ.

ຫຼັງຈາກອີ່ມກັບອາຫານອິຕາລີ, ຕື່ມປະສົບການອາຫານແລງ ຂອງທ່ານດ້ວຍ velvety panna cotta. ລາຍການອາຫານ pristine morsel ແມ່ນທັງເບົາ ແລະ ສົມ ບູ ນ ຊຶ່ງ ກໍ ຄື ກັນ ກັບ ລາຍການອາຫານເຍື່ອ ງອື່ນ ໆ ຂ ອ ງ ຮ້າ ນ A i C a p o n e ມີ ກ າ ນ ນໍາສ ະ ເ ໜີ ທີ່ພິ ເ ສ ດ ພ້ອ ມດ້ວ ຍແລັ ກ ເບີ ລີ ຊຶ່ງ ເຂົ້າ ກັນຢ່າງລົງຕົວ.

ໂທ: 021 254332 ທີ່ຢູ່ ຖະໜົນແຫ່ງບຸນ, ບ້ານອານຸ ເວບໄຊ: www.lao-kitchen.com ເປີດທຸກວັນ ແຕ່ເວລາ 11.00 – 22.00 ໂມງ.

| L’Adresse de Tinay’s Crème Brûlée |

ໂທ: 021 214129 ທີ່ຢູ່: ຖ ະ ໜົນ ສ າ ມ ແ ສ ນ ໄ ທ , ບ້ານເກົ້າຍອດ, ເປີດ ວັນຈັນ ຫາ ວັນສຸກ ເວລາ 11.00 – 22.00 ໂມງ ສ່ວນວັນເສົາ ເວລາ 18.00 - 22.30 ໂມງ.

ໂທ: 020 59910888 ທີ່ຢູ່ ຖະໜົນ Francois Ngin, ບ້ານມີໄຊ ເວບໄຊ: www.facebook.com/ Aicaponelaospdr ເປີດ ທຸກວັນ ເວລາ 11.30 - 22.30 ໂມງ.

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EAT

Listing

VIENTIANE • RAY’S GRILLE – American/Mexican.

It’s all about comfort food at Ray’s – home style burgers, legendary Philly cheese steak sandwiches and tasty quesadillas – all fresh and made to order in this homely joint. While the real drawcard is the colossal cheeseburger (best handled with two hands) mention must also go to the felafel burger which is sure to satisfy vegetarians. A selection of local and imported beers are available including a few micro-brewed American craft beers – just the ticket to wash down this tasty diner fare. 17/1 Sihom Road, 020 5896 6866, facebook. com/raysgrilleLaopdr. Open Monday to Friday, Sunday 11am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm.

• SOUL KITCHEN – Italian

This laid-back dinner hot spot is a little off the main drag but the pizzas and casual atmosphere – complete with rock and blues tunes – make it worth the trip. The menu includes tasty pasta dishes and salads but it’s the traditional wood fired pizzas that keeps Soul Kitchen’s loyal fans coming back for more. In keeping with the quotes from rock stars scrawled on the walls, the pies have fun names like ‘Rock n Roll’, ‘Purple Haze’ and ‘Voodoo Child’. Family friendly. Thadeua Road 143 (KM 0.5), 020 5612 0804, soulkitchen.vientiane@gmail.com. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

• LA SIGNATURE – French/Fusion. Set in the

• LAO KITCHEN – Lao.

A colourful eatery that specialises in authentic Lao dishes. Sisters Noi and Teng run the show while their family help out in the kitchen preparing soups, stews, grilled meats, stir-fry dishes and of course laap (the duck variation is a stand out). A great place for those new to Lao cuisine – the menu is full of helpful explanations for each dish and warns you if something may be a little too piquant for some palates. Rue Hengboun (opposite KP Hotel), 021 254 332, lao-kitchen.com. Open Monday to Sunday 11am – 10pm.

• BAN GAI TEX MEX CANTINA – American/ Mexican. A casual eatery which some say serves the

• VIENG SAWAN. Vietnamese. Look beyond the

• YULALA CAFÉ & RESTAURANT – Japanese/ Fusion. Pull up a chair or nestle into a floor cushion

• KUNG’S CAFÉ LAO – Lao/Breakfast. Tucked

• ARIA MIXAI ITALIAN CULINARY ARTS – Italian. Aria presents high-end epicurean Italian

at this cute little joint which puts a Japanese spin on Western ingredients. While the daily specials are ever-changing popular mainstays include sautéed chicken with tofu, soy sauce and mirin and the potato croquettes with mince beef and a tomato-based sauce. Set meals come with salad, pickled vegetables, flavoursome broth and steamed purple rice. Seating is limited so it can pack out early on the weekends. Rue Hengboun, 020 5510 4050, facebook.com/pages/ YuLaLa-cafe-restaurant/148520861845706. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11.30am – 2pm, 6pm – 9.30pm.

best chicken in Vientiane. Once famed purely for their finger-licking buffalo hot wings, Ban Gai has recently expanded their menu to include a host of authentic Tex Mex classics including nachos, enchiladas and burritos heaped with fresh salsa, gooey cheese and accompanied by bowls of piping hot rice and beans. Pair anything from the menu with one of their delicious margaritas and you’re set. Family friendly, delivery. Sokpalaung Road, 020 9825 6654, facebook.com/ BanGaiHouseOfChicken. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11am – 9pm.

down a residential laneway, this popular breakfast and lunch haunt is a hit with those in-the-know. The breakfast and lunch menu runs all day so try Laoinspired sweets like sticky rice pancakes with mango or banana French toast and savoury dishes like meatballs in broth with a fresh crunchy baguette or the Pad Lao noodles with pork. On the main street, look for a small hand painted sign pointing the way. Off Rue Simeuang, Piawat Village, 021 219 101, facebook. com/KungsCafeLao. Open 7 days 6am – 3pm.

• MAKPHET – Lao.

Makphet – Lao. This restaurant-cum-social enterprise is working to shape lives. Founded by Friends-International, Makphet provides training in hospitality to disadvantaged youth in Laos. If that wasn’t enough reason to dine here the kitchen creates an inspired take on Lao cuisine, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques. #78 Ban Inpeng, Vat Chanh Tha, 021 260 587, makphet-restaurant.org. Open Monday to Sunday 11am-10.30pm.

| Makphet. |

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stylish Ansara Hotel, this sophisticated restaurant perfectly marries French-Lao fusion with old-world charm. Choose between dining indoors in the highceilinged salon or al fresco on the elegant terrace. Sample salmon tartare with green apple millefeuille, Burgundy snails and three-flavoured lamb or let the chef guide you with daily specials including Lao-style petit fours. Desserts include a not-to-be-missed crème brulee trio. Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, 021 213 514, ansarahotel.com. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.00am, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 16.30pm – 9.30pm.

décor at this bustling eatery which serves up cheap and delicious Vietnamese dishes to hungry masses. Order a fresh or fried spring roll combination which comes with heaped plates of fresh lettuce, herbs and noodles designed to be eaten together. If you’re feeling lost check out how neighbouring diners are doing things and follow suit. Rue Hengboun (opposite Home Ideal), 021 213 990.

cuisine in an elegant salon setting in downtown Vientiane. The kitchen produces traditional hearty Italian fare including antipasti, homemade pasta and wood fired pizza using the highest quality ingredients. Discerning diners will welcome the extensive wine list which boasts fine imports from Italy. Set lunches are extremely popular on weekdays. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, 021 222 589, ariaorg.com.


Eat

A taste of Japan rolls into Sisattanak district at

words & photos Shayling Ngo

T.O Sushi,

ປ ະ ສົບ ກ າ ນ ເ ຂົ້າ ແ ລ ງ ທີ່ມ່ວ ນຊື່ນ

bringing flavoursome and satisfying fare with it.

ລອງຊີມລົດຊາດອາຫານຍີ່ປຸ່ນ ໂດຍການມຸ່ງ ໄປສູ່ເມືອງສີສັດຕະນາກ ທີ່ຮ້ານ ອາຫານ T.O Sushi ຊຶ່ງ ໄດ້ນໍາສະເໜີ ຄ ວາມນິ ຍົມ ແລະ ລົດຊາດອາຫານທີ່ດີເລີດ,

A Fres h a nd Fi sh y Affair Located along busy Thadeua Road, T.O Sushi can be easily missed with the blink of an eye. Tucked inside a two-level modern building, the restaurant is much like a hidden Zen garden of treasures. The clean exterior is decorated with lush green plants and upon entering the restaurant you are greeted with grand statues of gold, jade and timber. The sushi bar is the focal point of the first floor and ensures you have a satisfying dining experience with the chef preparing fresh sashimi and sushi rolls right before your eyes. For group dining, the spacious upper floor offers roomier tables.

HIGHLIGHT

The Tempura Sushi Roll is a crispy delight with a sweet sauce to complement the palate. Enjoy your meal with a pot of hot green tea and you are instantly transported to a typical sushi bar found in Japan. T.O Sushi Open Monday to Saturday, 11am-2.30pm and 5pm-10pm. A: Thadeua Road, Ban That Khao, Sisattanak District, Vientiane T: 020 5499 8899, 020 2888 8901, 030 5700 255

ຕັ້ງຢູ່ຖະໜົນທ່າເດື່ອ ທີ່ມີຄົນທຽວໄປ-ມາຫຼາຍ, ຮ້ານ T.O Sushi ສາມາດເບິ່ງກາຍໄດ້ຢ່າງງ່າຍດາຍ. ເມື່ອທ່ານຍ່າງ ເຂົ້າໄປໃນອາຄານ 2 ຊັ້ນທີ່ທັນສະໄໝ, ຮ້ານອາຫານ ຊຶ່ງ ເບິ່ງແລ້ວຄືສວນ ແຫ່ງຊັບສົມບັດ, ເຂດນອກທີ່ສະອາດ ແມ່ນຖືກຕົກແຕ່ງໄປດ້ວຍ ຕົ້ນໄມ້ສຂ ີ ຽວງາມ ແລະ ເມື່ອເຂົ້າ ໄປໃນຮ້ານ ທ່ານຈະຖືກຕ້ອນຮັບ ໂດຍຮູບຈໍາລອງ ຄໍາ ຢົກ ແລະ ໄມ້ຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່. ເຂດ sushi bar ແມ່ນ ຈຸ ດ ສຸ ມ ຂອງຊັ້ນ ທີ ໜຶ່ງ ແລະ ຮັບປະກັນວ່າ ທ່ານຈະໄດ້ມີ ປະສົບການ ອາຫານແລງ ທີ່ເພິ່ງພໍໃຈ ຊຶ່ງມີພໍ່ຄົວ ກຽມເຮັດ ຊາຊີມິ ແລະ ຊູຊິ ສົດໆ ຕໍ່ໜ້າທ່ານເອງ, ສໍາລັບ ການນັດໝາຍ ເພື່ອຮັບປະທານ ອາຫານແລງ ທີ່ເປັນກຸ່ມ ຢູ່ຊັ້ນສອງ ແມ່ນເໝາະສົມ ເພາະ ມີໂຕະ ແລະ ຫ້ອງທີ່ກວ້າງ. ລາຍການອາຫານທີ່ຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ລວມມີການປະສົມ ການເຮັດ ເຂົ້າປັ້ນຊູຊິ ທີ່ເປັນເອກະລັກ, ກອບ, ຕິ່ມຊໍາ Tonkatsu (gyoza dumplings) ແລະ ສະຫຼັດສົດໆ ປະສົມເປັນນໍ້າ ສະຫຼັດ . ຄໍາຂວັນ “ກິ ນ ດິ ບ ” ແມ່ນ ມີ ໃ ນ ທຸ ກ ລາຍການ ໄປພ້ອມກັບ ປາເຊວມອນ ປາທູນາ ແລະ ຫອຍເຊວ ຊາຊິມິ ທີ່ຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ຊຶ່ງລາຍການອາຫານທັງໝົດ ແມ່ນໄດ້ຮັບການ ປຸງແຕ່ງ ຢ່າງເອົາໃຈໃສ່ ຈາກພໍ່ຄົວທີ່ມີ ຄວາມຊໍານິຊໍານານ. ເມື່ອທ່ານໄດ້ບ່ອນນັ່ງແລ້ວ, ພະນັກງານ ຈະໃຫ້ບໍລິການ ທ່ານດ້ວຍຖົ່ວກ່ອນ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ ທ່ານກໍາລັງສໍາຫຼວດເບິ່ງ ລາຍການອາຫານ, ສະຫຼັດ ຊາຊິມິ ຊຶ່ງເປັນທີ່ນິຍົມ ແລະ ເບົາ ແມ່ນມີຄວາມໂດດເດັ່ນ ດ້ວຍເຄື່ອງປະສົມທີ່ງ່າຍດາຍ ເປັນຕົ້ນແມ່ນ ຜັກຂຽວ, ໝາກເຫຼ່ນເຊີຣີ ແລະ ໝາກອາ ໂວຄາໂດ ທີ່ມັນ ປະສົມ ເຂົ້າ ກັນ ດ້ວ ຍນໍ້າສະຫຼັດ ແລະ ໂຮຍດ້ວຍໄຂ່ປາຄາເວຍ ແລະ ສາຣ່າຍທະເລ. ເທັມປຸລະ ຊູຊິ ແມ່ນເຂົ້າກັນດີກັບ ຊ໋ອດຫວານ ຊຶ່ງໃຫ້ລົດ ຊາດທີ່ແສນວິເສດ ພ້ອມມີຄວາມສຸກກັບການຮັບປະທານ ອາຫານຂອງທ່ານ ດ້ວຍເຕົ້ານໍ້າຊາຂຽວຮ້ອນ ແລະ ທ່ານ ຈະຖືກນໍາໄປສູ່ບັນຍາກາດ ບາ ຊູຊິ ແບບດັ້ງເດີມຂອງຍີ່ປຸ່ນ.

The extensive menu sees a mixture of unique sushi roll creations, crispy Tonkatsu, plump gyoza dumplings, and fresh salads bursting with flavour. The slogan ‘Eat it Raw!’ is showcased throughout the menu, along with a vast amount of salmon, tuna and scallop sashimi – all traditionally prepared with expert precision. Once seated, attentive staff present you with moreish edamame beans to snack on while you peruse the menu. The flavoursome yet light Sashimi Salad is a standout with simple ingredients of mixed green leaves, cherry tomatoes and creamy avocado brought together by a tangy dressing and topped off with caviar and seaweed salad.

ຮ້ານອາຫານ T.O Sushi ເປີດ ວັນຈັນ ຫາ ວັນເສົາ, ເວລາ 11.00 - 14.30 ໂມງ ແລະ 17.00 – 22.00 ໂມງ. ທີ່ຢູ່: ຖະໜົນທ່າເດື່ອ, ບ້ານທາດຂາວ, ເມືອງສີສັດ ຕະນາກ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ໂທ: 020 54998899 020 28888901 030 5700255

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EAT

Listing

VIENTIANE • PIMENTON – Spanish/Steakhouse/ Tapas. Drawing on Hispanic flavours and flair the

emphasis here is on open wood fire quality grilled meats and small bites. Try contemporary tapas like montadito of pork belly, homemade grilled chorizo, garlic prawns and imported jamón ibérico de bellota or look to the grill for succulent tenderloin or lamb chops served with a kicky chimichurri sauce. The slick warehouse-esque décor with polished concrete and exposed piping only enhances the dining experience at Vientiane’s hippest eatery. 5 Rue Nokeoukoumane, 021 215 506, pimentonrestaurant-vte.com. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 2.30pm, 5pm – 10pm.

• MASA SPOON CAFÉ N’ BISTRO– Asian/ Western. A bright and cheerful restaurant, split

over two levels Masa pairs minimalist furniture with feature walls of raw timber, cool wall art and vintage china. The menu runs from share-plates of Asianspiced chicken wings and crunchy onion rings to dishes for one including signature dishes Masa Spoon burger, sticky BBQ spare ribs and tasty pastas. Sweet tooths will love the honey toast – perfect with a cup of tea. Rue Dongpalanthong, Phonesinuan (next to Pizza Company), 021 261 634, facebook.com/ MasaSpoonCafeNBistro. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 11pm.

• LE SILAPA RESTAURANT – French.

Le Silapa is an elegant gastronomic experience housed above the owners more casual establishment I-Beam Bar. Decadent and extensive the menu contains a collection of classic and modern French-inspired delicacies and the wine list includes bottles from France, Italy, Australia and South Africa. For a spot of post-dinner indulgence the cheese selection is outstanding. The ever-changing daily lunch set menu is a steal. Free WiFi. Level 1, 88 Setthathirath Road (above I Beam), 021 219 689, facebook.com/ lesilapavientiane. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm.

| Pimenton. |

• BISTRO 22 – French.

Chef Philippe presents honest French bistro fare at this cosy, hole-in-the-wall eatery. The food is fresh and flavourful with highlights including the goat’s cheese salad, rabbit terrine and classic steak frites. Popular with the expat crowd, the service is faultless and the desserts, including a delectable chocolate fondant, are not to be missed. 22 Samsenthai Road, Ban Khaonyot, 021 214 129. Open Monday to Friday 11am – 2pm, Monday to Saturday 6pm – 10pm.

• BENONI CAFÉ – Asian/Western/Café.

Escape the bustle of downtown Vientiane at Benoni Café, a bright and airy café-cum-restaurant which serves up fresh and tasty Asian and Western fare. Choose from a wide range of baguettes, quiches, burgers and noodle and rice dishes – all prepared quickly and served with a smile. The Lao coffee is home roasted and the delicious cakes and sweets are all made in-house. WiFi, family friendly. Rue Setthathirath (above Phimphone), 021 213 334, facebook.com/benonicafe. Open Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm.

| Masa Spoon Cafe N' Bistro. |

| Benoni Café |

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VIENTIANE | L’Adresse de Tinay Restaurant Français. |

• L’ADRESSE DE TINAY RESTAURANT FRANÇAIS – French. Chef Tinay produces some

of Vientiane’s finest and most inventive French cuisine at this chic dining spot. The whole duck breast with homemade foie gras and white truffle oil is a current favourite and Tinay’s signature cassoulet with homemade confit duck is the perfect nod to traditional French comfort food. For dessert the crème brulee is the best in town. Behind Wat Ong Teu, 020 5691 3434, ladressedetinay.com. Open Monday to Friday 11.30am – 2pm, 6.30pm – 10pm, Saturday 6.30pm – 10pm.

• OSAKA HAC CHAO – Japanese.

This cosy eatery is usually buzzing with Japanese customers who come for a taste of home – always a good sign. Simple traditional and not-so-traditional Japanese fare is on offer including generous sushi and sashimi platters, crisp tempura, steaming bowls of ramen and udon noodle soups and a variety of katsu dishes. The set meals are a great way to try a little of everything and the tempura ice cream is a quirky addition to the sweets menu. Nokeokoummane Road (next to Le Banneton).

• JAMIL ZAHID RESTAURANT – Indian/ Pakistani. This cheap and cheerful eatery is

affectionately known simply as Jamil’s by the loyal diners that frequent it. Tucked down an alley, Jamil and his team serve up authentic Indian and Pakistani dishes which are full of flavour and light on the hip pocket. Ordering anything that comes from Jamil’s on-site traditional tandoori oven is always a safe bet. Off Khounboulom Road, Ban Haysok, 020 5650 2455, facebook.com/JamilZahidRestaurantVientiane. Open 7 days 11.00am – 10.30pm.

• RESTAURANT L’ELEPHANT – French/Lao.

L’Elephant is housed in a charming colonial building just steps away from the magnificent Mekong River. Specialising in traditional and creative French and Lao cuisine the kitchen places an emphasis on using organic, local produce which is grown in their own gardens a few kilometres out of town. Free WiFi. Kounxoa Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 252 482, elephantrestau.com. Open 7 days 11.00am – 10pm.

VIENTIANE

| Ai Capone. |

• AI CAPONE – Italian. The latest offering from

Chef Gerardo is Ai Capone, in downtown Vientiane. The contemporary interior is matched with a modern menu offering top Italian dining with a casual flair, boasting simple dishes packing authentic flavours. The menu ranges from pastas and mains to risotto and desserts – but it’s hard to look past the woodfired pizzas with over 40 combinations straight from Napoli. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, Ban Mixai, 020 5991 0888, facebook.com/aicaponelaospdr. Open 7 days 11.30am – 10.30pm.

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LUANG PRABANG • LA BELLE EPOQUE – Lao /Western. Housed

| Les 3 Nagas. |

in the grand Luang Say Residence, just outside the city centre, this upscale dining room exudes a warm, heritage ambience. The seasonal, healthy and creative menu changes quarterly and features a tempting selection of regional dishes from Laos and further afield in South East Asia. An on-site fruit and vegetable garden means fresh ingredients are always at the kitchen’s fingertips. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260 891, luangsayresidence.com. Open 7 days 6am – 10.30pm.

• TAMARIND RESTAURANT – Lao.

Tamarind specialises in helping diners explore and learn about Lao cuisine and the traditions associated with it. Enjoy sampling platters or something from the a la carte menu with explanations and demonstrations from helpful staff and the Nam Khan River as a picturesque backdrop. If you’re happy to be guided by the chef try one of the famed specialised feasts choices include Traditional Lao Fish Barbeque, The Adventurous Lao Gourmet and Luang Prabang Family Dinner. Ban Wat Sene on the banks of the Nam Khan River, 071 213 128, tamarindlaos.com. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 9pm.

• LES 3 NAGAS – Lao. Dining at Les 3 Nagas is a

distinctly local affair with the restaurant housed both on the inviting terrace of the 3 Nagas Hotel and inside an adjacent colonial-style building. Executing both authentic Lao dishes and the chef’s original creations with a touch of French finesse this attractive lunch and dinner spot presents some of the finest food in town. Start your meal with the crisp and tangy Luang Prabang salad and round off with the black sticky rice for dessert. Happy hours 3pm – 6pm. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, 3-nagas.com. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

• TAMNAK LAO RESTAURANT – Lao. A family-

run restaurant which delivers delicious authentic and homely Lao cuisine. The in-house cooking school means the staff know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask questions. Try the crispy bamboo shoots stuffed with pork and vegetables or the ubiquitous Luang Prabang sausage, both are done very well here. Sakarinne Road, 071 212 239, tamnaklao.net. Open 7 days breakfast 8.30am – 10.30am, lunch 11am – 3pm, dinner 5pm – 11pm.

• CAFÉ TOUI – Lao /Western. A colourful hole in

the wall on a quiet side street leading to the Mekong River. Chef Toui began his culinary journey as a waiter in Vientiane before working the kitchen at L’Elephant where he developed his passion for cooking. Now head of the kitchen at his own eatery Toui serves up hearty Lao and Western fare using fresh, local ingredients. Sisavangvatthana Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 020 5657 6763, cafetoui.com. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

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| Tamarind Restaurant. |


SAVANNAKHET

| Cafe Chai Dee. |

• CAFÉ CHAI DEE – Japanese/Western.

Fun little café housed in a sunshine-yellow building on the main street of Savannakhet. Chai Dee serves up a mix of Japanese favourites including katsudon, sushi, cold noodle salad alongside fresh sandwiches and Thai curries. Cosy into a comfy armchair with a freshly brewed Lao coffee lounge on the sunny terrace with an icy Chai Dee Cooler. Occasional live music in the evenings. Free WiFi, book exchange. 1 Latsavongseuk Road, Lattanalansy Thai Village, 020 9179 2479, cafechaidee. com. Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am – 9.00pm.

• LIN’S CAFE – Asian/Café.

A friendly tucked away eatery housed in a 1930s building complete with original art-deco tiles. Located in the heart of historic downtown this is the perfect place to while away the afternoon with a fresh Lao coffee and tasty Lao/Vietnamese fare. An upstairs gallery exhibits photographs of old Savannakhet. Free WiFi, tourist information, bicycle rental. Latsaphanit Road, Ban Xaiyaphoum Village, 020 9988 1630, lincafe.netau.net. Open 7 days 8.30am – 8.00pm.

| Lin’s Cafe. |

PAKSE • NADAO – French/Lao.

A great find in Pakse, Nadao offers fresh and flavoursome French bistro fare and traditional Lao dishes in a fine dining atmosphere. A little out of the city centre, its location hasn’t stopped locals and visitors alike from flocking to experience some of the best gourmet dining in southern Laos. The service is faultless and the owner/chef will almost always be happy to suggest something from his repertoire. Near the Japanese Bridge (opposite the Champasak Grand Hotel), 021 213 174.

• LE PANORAMA – Lao /International. As the name might suggest this

leafy rooftop terrace, perched on the top floor of the Hotel Pakse, has the best views in town. Diners can take their pick from a range of cuisines including Lao, Thai and French. No matter what you’re eating the fact remains Le Panorama is the place to sit back, relax and take in a glorious sunset in Pakse, chilled Beerlao in hand optional. Street 5, Bane Watlouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.com.

• LAN KHAM NOODLE HOUSE – Lao.

Attached to the Lan Kham Hotel this noodle house is considered famous around these parts. Particularly popular with locals for breakfast – you may have to fight for a spot – Lan Kham consistently produces huge steaming bowls of noodle soup accompanied by heaped plates of fresh herbs and greens. Cheap and tasty, having this on your doorstep would be reason enough to stay at the neighbouring guest house. Street 13, Lakmeaumg Village. Open 7 days 6.30am – 1pm.

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CAFÉ

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VIENTIANE • COMMON GROUNDS CAFÉ AND BAKERY – Café/Mexican. This family friendly café is the perfect

place to kick back in a comfy armchair and refuel with a coffee and homemade cake while the kids enjoy the outdoor playground. Their organic coffee is sourced from Saffron in Luang Prabang which supports farmers to grow coffee instead of opium, so you won’t feel too guilty settling in for a second latte. Free Wi-Fi. Rue Chao Anou, 021 255 057, facebook.com/commongroundslaos. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 8pm.

• JOMA BAKERY CAFÉ – Café/Western.

A name synonymous with the Vientiane café scene, each of Joma’s three Vientiane shopfronts provides tasty, fresh eats and organic fair trade coffee in a cosy, coffeehouse atmosphere. The friendly staff and speedy service make Joma a popular choice for those on-the-go while others tend to linger awhile over breakfast, lunch or any of the delicious in-house baked goods. Free Wi-Fi, delivery. Joma Namphou: Th. Setthathilath, Joma Phonthan: Th. Dongpalane, Joma That Luang: cnr Singha Rd/ Nongbone Rd, delivery: 021 254 333, joma.biz. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm. – Café. A hidden, hip little gem perched on a bustling intersection, Café Nomad is a popular haunt for office workers, embassy staff and those in the know. Their straightforward menu of coffee, juices, paninis and cakes may be small, but it’s all executed extremely well. Free Wi-Fi, public pc/printer/scanner. 1-342 Dongpalanthong, Sisattanak, 020 5434 9977, facebook.

• CAFÉ NOMAD

com/cafenomad.lao. Open Monday to Friday 8.30am – 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am – 6pm.

• NAKED ESPRESSO – Café. A popular place for a

caffeine hit this light filled café serves up some of the best brew in town. Naked Espresso is all about a combination of fine Arabica beans sourced from Southern Laos and Northern Thailand, well-trained baristas, friendly service and a world-class espresso machine. Free WiFi. Dongpalan Road, 021 454 631, nakedespressocafe. net. Open Tuesday to Friday 7am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 8am – 5pm. – Café. Le Trio Coffee is the latest addition to Vientiane’s buzzy café scene, with their boutique art deco-inspired shopfront. An artisanal roaster since 2009, Le Trio roasts the finest Lao-sourced Arabica and Robusta beans with some of the best European equipment in-house. Now in their own café, guests can enjoy a brew on the sunny terrace, at the elegant salonstyle bar, or pick up a bag of beans to enjoy at home. Setthathirath Road, 020 2255 3552, facebook.com/ letriocoffee. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am – 4pm.

• LE TRIO COFFEE

• BEGONIA CAFÉ – Café.

A cosy new coffee house in the That Luang area, Begonia serves up delicious Saffron-brand coffee from Luang Prabang. Fans of vintage-chic will love the array of quirky trinkets on display including old typewriters, retro phones and record players – and don’t forget to look

up at the colourful umbrellas peppering the ceiling. Don’t miss a slice of Begonia’s signature crepe cake – layer upon layer of delicate crepes sandwiched with a filling of your choice including mango and coconut. Soi 4 off Nongbone Road, 020 5555 5082, facebook. com/pages/Begonia-Café/124868954261514. Open Monday to Saturday 9am – 5.30pm.

• NOY’S FRUIT HEAVEN – Shakes/Café. A cute

and colourful hangout that is popular with travellers, Noy and her team serve up fresh and fast fruit shakes and juices in a medley of tropical combinations. If you’re after something you can sink your teeth into Noy’s is great for flavoursome sandwiches, wraps and burgers – try the felafel pita stuffed with fresh salad and feta. 60/2 Rue Hengboun. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm.

• TRUE COFFEE – Shakes/Café. The Vientiane

flagship of the popular Thai chain has the slick, western-style coffee house vibe down pat. But comfy sofas and speedy WiFi aside, the coffee here is excellent and comes in a myriad of piping hot and icy cold variations. Situated in the heart of downtown Vientiane True Coffee is perfect for a quick caffeine hit on-the-go or a lengthy escape from the daily grind with one of their delicious selection of sweet treats. 111 Setthathirath Road, close to Nam Phu Fountain, 044 253 338.

LUANG PRABANG – Café. Sitting pretty on the main street of tranquil Luang Prabang this elegant café-cum-restaurant combines the home-grown ingredients and cuisine of sister bistro L’Éléphant Restaurant with lighter café-style fare including a selection of delectable pastries. Free Wi-Fi. Sakarine Road, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

• LE CAFÉ BAN VAT SENE

PAKSE – Café. A Lao legacy, the well-known Sinouk Coffee empire has grown from its humble beginnings as a small plantation in the 1990s to a 50 hectare estate and is turning heads across Asia. Pakse’s Sinouk Coffee and Bakery outpost serves up delicious cups of Sinouk’s signature organic blend which comes direct from the farm in Paksong to the table. Free Wi-Fi. Pakse centre, near the Tourism Office, sinouk-cafe.com.

• SINOUK COFFEE AND BAKERY

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– Lao/Café. Housed in the grounds of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre this intimate eatery offers a range of dishes from northern Lao ethnic minorities, making it the perfect stop after immersing yourself in Lao culture next door. Located at the base of Phou Si Hill patrons will enjoy a unique vantage point of this distinctive attraction. Free Wi-Fi. Ban Khamyong, le_patio@elephant-restau. com, elephant-restau.com/lepatiocafe.html. Open 7 days 9am – 5pm.

• LE PATIO CAFÉ

| Sinouk Coffee and Bakery |

• THE SILK ROAD CAFÉ – Lao. Bringing

an east meets west philosophy to the kitchen the Silk Road Café combines regional flavours, local ingredients and ideas from cuisines the silk road passed through. Set against a backdrop of the Mekong River this open-air café is housed on the grounds of the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre making it the perfect spot to grab coffee and a bite after an on-site weaving workshop or demonstration. Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, Ban Saylom, 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 7 days 8am – 5pm.

SAVANNAKHET • CAFÉ CHEZ BOUNE – Café/Western. Drawing crowds for great European fare, impressive décor and charming atmosphere, Café Chez Boune is a popular spot for dining out in Savannakhet. Opt for something light such as a tasty bruschetta or baguette or if you’re looking for something more substantial the seared duck breast or tender imported steaks are a good choice. Chaimeuang Road, Xayaphoum Village, 041 215 190, cafechezboune.com. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.


A Home Away From Home

Drink

HIGHLIGHT

words & photos Shayling Ngo

The Little House is a sweet and peaceful sanctuary to relax, retreat and enjoy a signature cup of home-roasted coffee. The Little House is a welcome getaway set back from a sleepy road in Vientiane’s downtown. A quaint pebbled path leads you under leafy green trees to this cosy café, where the charming sound of chirping birds perfectly complements the scent of aromatic coffee beans. The rustic café is designed to seat no more than 15 people, creating a homey and secluded atmosphere. Peacefulness resonates in and around the premises with expatriates and locals alike seeking a scenic place to unwind with coffee and a good book.

| Homemade scones with jam and cream. |

The Little House serves Japanese-Lao fusion fare, with a range of coffee, tea and freshly baked goods on offer. Pair a coffee float – made fresh from their own in-house coffee blend – with a few chocolate-orange truffle balls for a decadent morning tea. The made-to-order scones are also a hit, and are served piping hot with your choice of honey, jam, cream or butter. Balanced out with a refreshing iced green tea, it makes for the perfect afternoon snack. The café also houses a small handicraft store in cooperation with Handicrafts Promotion Enterprise, which sells cotton scarves, bags and coasters made by the Taidam and Lanten tribes. The Little House Open Tuesday-Sunday, 8.30am-6.30pm A: Manthatourath Road, Ban Xiengnueun, Vientiane T: 020 5540 6036 E: cafelao66@yahoo.co.jp

| Coffee float. |

| Chocolate-orange truffles. |

ອົບອຸ່ນຄືຢູ່ເຮືອນ ຮ້ານ The Little House ແມ່ນສະຖານທີ່ ທີ່ມຄ ີ ວາມງຽບສະຫງົບ ແລະ ບັນຍາກາດທີ່ແສນຫວານສຳ�ລັບການ ພັກຜ່ອນຢ່ອນໃຈ ແລະ ມີຄວາມສຸກກັບຈອກກາເຟທີ່ຂົ້ວເອງ ຊຶ່ງມີລົດຊາດແຊບຊ້ອຍຂອງຮ້ານ. The Little House ແມ່ນ ສະຖານທີ່ພັກ ຜ່ອ ນ ທີ່ໃ ຫ້ ບັນ ຍາກາດອົບ ອຸ່ນ ຕັ້ງ ຢູ່ໃ ກ້ກັບ ຖະໜົນ ທີ່ຫຼັບ ໄຫຼ ຂອງຕົວ ເ ມື ອ ງ ວ ຽ ງ ຈັນ ຍ່າ ງ ຜ່າ ນ ທ າ ງ ນ້ອ ຍ ທີ່ປູ ດ້ວ ຍ ກ້ອ ນ ຫີ ນ ທີ່ແ ປກຕາ ແລະ ຜ່າ ນຕົ້ນ ໄມ້ທີ່ຂ ຽວງາມ ແລ້ວ ນໍາທ່າ ນ ໄ ປ ສູ່ຮ້າ ນ ກ າ ເ ຟ ທີ່ອົບ ອຸ່ນ ແ ຫ່ງ ນີ້ ຊຶ່ງ ເ ປັ ນ ສ ະ ຖ າ ນ ທີ່ ທີ່ມີ ສ ຽ ງ ນົກ ຮ້ອ ງ ປ ະ ສ າ ນ ກັນ ຢ່າ ງ ລົງ ຕົວ ກັບ ກິ່ນ ຫ ອ ມ ຂອງເມັດກາເຟຂົ້ວ. ຮ້າ ນກາເຟ ທີ່ຮ ຽບງ່າ ຍແຫ່ງ ນີ້ ແມ່ນ ອອກແບບ ໃຫ້ມີ ບ່ອ ນ ນັ່ງ ບໍ່ເ ກີ ນ 15 ຄົນ ຊຶ່ງ ສ້າ ງ ໃຫ້ມີ ບັນ ຍາກາດທີ່ສ ະບາຍ ແລະ ງຽບສະຫງົບ , ຄວາມງຽບສະຫງົບ ໄດ້ສ ະທ້ອ ນອອກ ໃນບັນ ຍາກາດ ທັງ ພາຍໃນ ແລະ ອ້ອ ມແອ້ມ ສະຖານທີ່ ພ້ອມດ້ວຍແຂກຕ່າງປະເທດ ແລະ ຄົນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ທີ່ສະແຫວງ ຫາສະຖານທີ່ ທີ່ສວຍງາມ ເພື່ອຜ່ອນຄາຍໄປກັບ ກາເຟ ແລະ ການອ່ານປຶ້ມທີ່ດີ.

Little House ໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານ ລາຍການອາຫານ ປະສົມປະສານ ລາວ-ຍີ່ປຸ່ນ ພ້ອມ ກາເຟ ຊາ ແລະ ອາຫານອົບ ທີ່ຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ໄວ້ໃຫ້ບໍລິການ, ດື່ມກາເຟຈັກ 2 ຈອກ ທີ່ເຮັດຈາກເຄື່ອງເຮັດ ກາເຟຂອງຮ້າ ນເອງ ພ້ອ ມດ້ວ ຍຊ໋ອ ກໂກແລັ ດ ໝາກກ້ຽ ງ ສໍາລັບ ການດື່ມຊາໃນຕອນເຊົ້າ.

ຮ້ານກາເຟ Little House ເປີດ ວັນຄານ-ວັນອາທິດ, 8.30 -18.30 ໂມງ ໂທ: 020 55406036 ທີ່ຢູ່: ຖະໜົນມັນທາຕຸລາດ, ບ້ານຊຽງຍືນ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ອີເມວ: cafelao66@yahoo.co.jp

ຂະໜົມປັງສະຄອນ ກ້ອນນ້ອຍຕາມສັ່ງ ແມ່ນເປັນທີ່ນຍ ິ ົມ ແລະ ພ້ອມເສີບຮ້ອນໆ ເພື່ອຈຸ່ມກັບສິ່ງທີ່ທ່ານເລືອກ ເຊັ່ນ: ນໍ້າເຜິ້ງ ແຢມ ຄຣີມ ຫຼື ເນີຍ ຕື່ມເຕັມດ້ວຍ ຊາຂຽວໃສ່ນໍ້າກ້ອນທີ່ສົດຊື່ນ ຊຶ່ງເໝາະສົມສໍາລັບເປັນອາຫານວ່າງໃນຕອນສວາຍ. ຮ້ານກາຟ ຍັງເປັນສະຖານທີ່ ສໍາລັບເຄື່ອງຫັດຖະກໍາຝີມືຂະ ໜາດນ້ອຍ ແລະ ທາງຮ້ານ ຮ່ວມກັບວິສາຫະກິດສົ່ງເສີມເຄື່ອງ ຫັດຖະກໍາ ຊຶ່ງຂາຍຜ້າພັນຄໍຝ້າຍ ກະເປົາ ແລະ ເຄື່ອງຮອງຈອກ ທີ່ຜະລິດໂດຍຊົນເຜົ່າແລນແຕນ ແລະ ໄທດໍາ.

49


BAR

Listing

VIENTIANE • CHOKDEE CAFÉ & BELGIAN BEER BAR – Bar/Belgian. This cosy pub, decorated with Tin Tin paraphernalia, is the place to come if you’ve got a hankering for Hoegaarden or any of the other 79 imported Belgian beers they keep. Huge steaming pots of moules frites attract big crowds every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Free WiFi, beer specials on Thursdays. 32/4 Fa Gnum Quai (along the Mekong River front), 020 5610 3434, chokdeecafe.com. Open 7 days 10am – 11pm.

| Chokdee Café | when ladies receive half price wine by the glass. Live jazz on Thursday nights. Free WiFi, lunch buffet daily. 88 Setthathirath Road, 021 254 523, facebook.com/ ibeamvientiane. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm.

• KONG VIEW RESTAURANT AND BAR – Bar/ Asian. A contemporary Lao-style house with a leafy

open air deck jutting right out to the Mekong River. Enjoy a cocktail or a beer at sunset then while away the evening under the stars and colourful lanterns on the terrace nibbling on some of the selection of Lao and Thai-inspired share plates. 183 Souphanouvong Road, Hom 1 Ban Nongpanay, 021 520 522, kongview.com.

• SUITE21 COCKTAIL BAR AND LOUNGE – Cocktail. $$ A hip nightspot serving up some of the

| I-Beam Bar |

• STICKY FINGERS – Bar/Western/Lao.

Sticky’s, as it’s more affectionately known, is a longtime expat institution drawing big crowds for their legendary happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights. The bartenders make a mean Tom Yum Martini which, refreshingly piquant, comes complete with a whole chilli garnish. Free WiFi, delivery. 10/3 Rue Francois Nginn, 021 215 972. Open Monday to Friday 5pm – 11pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am – 11pm.

• I-BEAM BAR – Wine/Tapas Modern and casual this intimate bar combines an excellent drop of red or white with seasonal share plates like dainty croquettes, marinated vegetables and an inventive take on nachos con carne. I-Beam buzzes on Wednesday nights | Kop Chai Deu |

best cocktails in town and in trendy mason jars no less. Try their lychee or passionfruit spin on the classic mojito and chill out with a flavoured shisha of which they have an extensive range of flavours. Suite21 also stocks a range of imported beer including the ever-elusive Corona chilled to perfection and done right with a wedge of lime. Free WiFi. Ban Phonesavang (between Star Pub and Sai Jai Restaurant), 020 7813 1399, facebook.com/ Suite21Vientiane. Open Tuesday to Sunday 7.30pm – 12.30am.

• THE SPIRIT HOUSE – Bar/Lao/Western. An

inviting meeting point with a sprawling terrace looking onto the Mekong River. The cocktail list is extensive with quality liquors preferred, perfect for a sundowner paired with tasty Lao bar snacks. It’s located on a quiet stretch of the waterfront which makes for a peaceful breakfast or afternoon drink before it busies up in the evening. Free WiFi. 93/09 Fa Ngum Road, Ban Seetarn Neua, 021 243 795, thespirithouselaos.com, info@thespirithouselaos. com. Open 7 days 7am – 11pm.

• WINE95 – Wine. Whether you’re after a full-bodied

red or a dry white Wine95 is the last word in wine service in Vientiane. Upon entry it is evident these guys know their stuff with a slick, fully stocked cellar bar complete with the DiWine Service System guaranteeing a fresh drop in every glass. A staircase leads to an intimate upstairs space with elegant lounges and objects d’art. Setthathirat Road (next to Phimphone), 020 5550 2957, facebook.com/Wine95. Open Monday to Saturday 5pm – 12am.

• BOR PEN NYANG – Bar/Western/Lao.

This casual rooftop bar attracts an eclectic crowd of locals, seasoned expats and backpackers all who vie for a prime position along the balcony to watch the sunset over the Mekong River with a Beerlao nam kohn. Once the night comes things tend to kick up a notch with parties hitting the pool tables and beer towers. Fa Ngum Road, Wat Chanh, 020 5580 8281. Open 7 days 11am – 12am.

• JAZZY BRICK – Bar. With its exposed brickwork,

moody lighting and distinct vintage-look decor The Jazzy Brick exudes effortless cool. The friendly staff make a mean cocktail and can usually make a recommendation from the extensive menu and the wine list is well-edited. Setthathirat Road (next to Wine95), 021 212 489, facebook.com/jazzybricklao. Open 7 days 6pm – 12am.

• THE HIGHLAND RESTAURANT & BAR – Sports bar. Casual and relaxed open-air sports bar

with views of the Mekong River. Drawing huge crowds for rugby, football and soccer matches all broadcast live on big-screen televisions, the menu includes Lao, pizza and pub-style fare – perfect for ravenous sports fans. Khamkhong Road, Ban Khounta, 020 7759 4971, highlandbar.com.

• SENGTAWAN ROOFTOP BAR – Bar.

Sitting pretty on the top floor of the Sengtawan Riverside Hotel this rooftop terrace enjoys one of the most picturesque views of the Mekong River. Situated on the riverfront, a little out of the downtown action, this laidback spot is perfect for a low-key afternoon or evening of drinks and dinner. Ban Sithan Neua, 021 219 362, sengtawan.com. Open 7 days.

• KOP CHAI DEU – Bar/Lao/Western.

Kop Chai Deu have hit the nail on the head with their slogan ‘the place where the world meets’, on any given night the oldest and arguably best-located bar in Vientiane brings together locals, expats and travellers with refreshing drinks, good food and nightly live music. Try to nab a spot on the upper level decking to enjoy the sultry Lao evenings. Free WiFi. 54 Setthathirat Road (next to Nam Phu fountain), 021 251 564, facebook.com/KhopChaiDeu.

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| Hive Bar and Restaurant |

LUANG PRABANG • TANGOR – Bar/Tapas.

Contemporary chic meets colonial charm at this intimate spot on Luang Prabang’s main stretch. Tangor specialises in impeccably crafted cocktails and a generous selection of local and imported beers and ciders. Market produce dictates the everchanging menu of share plates but luckily for us their standout fish ceviche is a mainstay. House 63/6 Rue Susavangvong, 020 9560 7262, resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm. – Cocktail. Capturing the essence of a traditional colonial café this light and airy salon-style cocktail bar welcomes patrons with classic well-worn chesterfields, an inviting terrace and a marble fireplace in cooler months. The bar draws on inspiration from its home at the Luang Say Residence with a heritage theme featuring displays of old-world maps of Laos, hunting excursions and botanical studies. Enjoy fine wines from around the world and a range of enticing cocktails prepared with top-shelf spirits in this sophisticated and

• 1861 BAR

ambient venue. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260 891, luangsayresidence.com. Open 7 days 9am – 11pm.

• HIVE BAR AND RESTAURANT – Bar/ American. This vibrant garden bar is best known

for its snappy cocktails, extensive beer and wine list and for serving up home style southern favourites. Grab a beer and try the mahogany smoked BBQ ribs or pulled pork sandwich. Nightly live entertainment includes Ethnik; a live fashion show of ethnic minority costumes and hip hop performed by local b-boys. Bar Street, Ban Aphay, 020 5999 5370, hivebarlaos. com. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 12am, Sunday 10am – 12am.

punters are most likely to be seen sipping a brilliantly made cocktail (try the Bloody Mary or a dry martini) over a game of chess or retro board game. Free WiFi. Siphouttabath Road, Ban Xiengmouan, 071 254 905, iconklub.com. Open 7 days 5pm – 11.30pm.

• UTOPIA – Bar/Lao/Western. Hidden on the

lush banks of the Nam Khan river amongst charming tropical gardens and thatched decking Utopia has perfected laid back paradise. Patrons can languidly sip tropical cocktails on the cushioned terrace watching the river go by, play a board game with neighbours or party into the night in a tiki hut. Ban Aphay, 020 2388 1771, utopialuangprabang.com. Open 7 days 8am – 11.30pm.

• ICON KLUB – Cocktail. This cosy bohemian haunt attracts a creative crowd, and welcomes live music, and hosts open mic poetry nights. Icon’s walls are adorned with vintage posters and film noir stills and

51


RELAX

Listing

VIENTIANE • ADINA SPA This experienced spa team provides

the ultimate pampering. Unlike many others spas, they provide Japanese traditional massages, Indian massages and a Hot Stone Massage. The facials are amongst the most advanced in the city. Higher-end prices. 170 Phonsaath, Kaysone Road, 021 414 138, 9am-10pm, www.adinaspalao.com.

• GREEN PARK CHAMPA LAO SPA This hotel-

based spa is walled-in with dark woods and has snow white beds with trinkets on lockers and candles burning for soft light. They’ve got traditional massage, body exfoliation and expert facial treatments for guests and visitors. Foot massages take place in comfy recliners with a view to the gardens. Green Park Hotel, 12 Khouvieng Road, 021 263 064, 10am-7pm, www. greenparkvientiane.com.

• CHAMPA SPA & MASSAGE Champa has two

locations in town within serene, quiet surroundings. Traditional Lao Massage, Herbal Treatments, Aromatherapy Massage and Body Steams have a range of lengths and prices. There is also a hand and foot spa, and waxing services. Among the best in Vientiane. Corner of Fa Ngum and Pangkham Roads, near Nam Phu, 021 251 926, 9am-10pm, www.champaspa.com.

• DALAH SPA Luxurious Dalah Spa have a mineral milk bath, anti-stress back and shoulder treatments, the Four Hands Massage and sports massage for those exerting themselves. Located on a quiet lane just off the main road. 140 Khouvieng Road, 021 285 125, 9am-9pm.

• GIRIYA SPA You’ve got to travel to Rashmi’s Hotel,

3km from the city centre, to reach Giriya, but that’s small sacrifice for the awaiting experience. There’s an Indian atmosphere reflected in the decoration, while Thai masseuses give excellent massages in private rooms. Soon open to membership. Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Road Km3, 021 315 088, www.rashmishotel. com.

| Papaya Spa |

• HEALING HANDS MASSAGE & SPA Located

within Don Chan Palace Hotel on the Mekong Riverfront. They offer reflexology, natural aromatherapy oil massages and Lao hot herbal compress treatments within a spacious and warmly coloured parlour. Don Chan Palace Hotel, Fa Ngum Road, 021 244 288, 10am-7pm, www. donchanpalacelaopdr.com.

This establishment has Lao style herbal saunas for men and women in separate rooms. It also offers different massages including Lao, oil and foot. Entrance fees include a towel for men but women must rent a sarong for a small fee. Located very close to the Mekong in central Vientiane. Chao Anou Road, 020 5504 5655, 1pm-9pm.

• HERBAL SAUNA

Another one of many in the centre of Vientiane, but definitely among the best. The staff is friendly and there’s a few packages to choose from. Otherwise, the Traditional Lao massage is very popular and the Swedish massage is also well worth a try. Pangkham Road, near Nam Phu, 021 223 857, 10am-9.30pm.

• MANDARINA BODY & SOUL SPA

| Dalah Spa | About 4km from the city centre, Manee Spa offers consistently good massages in a tranquil setting. There are several private rooms with quality tables and a tasteful interior. It’s on the higher price scale but the setting with beautiful gardens is second to none. Sokpaluang Road, past the Myanmar Embassy, 021 353 207.

• MANEE SPA

This is just a 5-minute walk from the Mekong in the centre of town and they offer advanced massage and body therapies, as well as the traditional foot and body massages. The owners are very friendly and can further elaborate on options available. 45 Settathirath Road, 9am-11pm.

• NIKOLAZ MASSAGE

• NIRVANA SPA The head and back massage is

particularly good but it’s possible to get a combination of several treatments. The delightful honey body wrap could be combined with aromatic skin massage, followed by a herbal skin polish. Pangkham Road, facing Lao Plaza Hotel, 021 222 936, 10am-9pm, www.nirvana-spa-laos.com.

The setting in an old French colonial villa is charm enough, but inside the opulence is even greater. They’ve a Swedish oil massage, offer facials, body scrubs, reflexology and saunas. It’s definitely one of the pricier in the capital, but well worth it to relax in a state of pure luxury for a few hours. Phanya Sy Road, 021 216 550, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, www. papayaspa.com.

• PAPAYA SPA

White Lotus gives excellent foot massages in relaxing leather recliners. It’s one of the more affordable yet consistent massage businesses in town and has a great aromatherapy massage. Try the signature lotus foot massage or the Cleopatra treatment with gold masque for 200,000kip – heavenly. Also does yoga instruction. Pangkham Road, close to Nam Phu, 021 217 492, 10am-10pm.

• WHITE LOTUS MASSAGE & YOGA

52


LUANG PRABANG | Kiridara Spa |

• AYU SPA At Xieng Thong Palace Hotel, Ayu Spa is

• KIRIDARA SPA Kiridara Spa’s signature treatment

Tucked away beside a beautiful lotus pond and surrounded by coconut trees, Dhammada provides exceptional massages. There are aroma, oriental and foot massages to ease body tensions and bigger packages to spend a few hours. Very friendly and experienced staff makes Dhammada one of the best in town. Luang Prabang Oasis Hotel, Ban Vixoun, 071 212 642, www. luangprabangoasis.com.

• LAO RED CROSS

Fully trained and qualified massage therapists mean Dok Champa is an excellent place to relieve stress. They offer sports, aromatic oil, and gel and lotion massage. There are also deep cleansing facials for those looking for complete body rejuvenation. Visounarath Road, Ban Vixoun, 020 7777 9966, www.dokchampamassage.com.

• LUANG PRABANG YOGA

massage and body treatment heaven. Holistic practices performed by experienced therapists are a perfect way to slip into true relaxation. You could spend a half-day sampling the variety of massage and sauna/steam options, while a pedicure or manicure ties a few hours off. Kounxaou Road, Ban Phoneheung, 071 213 200, www.xiengthongpalace.com.

• DHAMMADA OASIS MASSAGE

• DOK CHAMPA MASSAGE

is the Nuat Bouhan Massage, which lasts 90 minutes and fuses ancient Lao traditions with the regional therapies of Japanese Shiatsu, Thai massage and Chinese acupuncture. They’ve got many packages to choose from and the view over Luang Prabang is stunning. 22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham, 071 261 888, www.snhcollection.com/kiridara.

Popular with health conscious locals and tourists alike, the Lao Red Cross Traditional Sauna and Massage provides quality, age-old therapies in a newly renovated colonial-era house opposite Vat Visoun. Try the herbal steam bath (10,000 kip) and unwind with a therapeutic oil massage (from 50,000 kip per hour). All profits support disaster relief and community development. Opposite Vat Visoun, 071 252 856, 7 days 1pm-9pm.

This collective runs classes in yoga and meditation for beginner and experienced practitioners. The group alternates their regular classes between several picturesque riverside locations including Utopia and Ock Pop Tok and holds yoga retreats at Mandala Ou Resort in Nong Khiaw. luangprabangyoga.org.

Across from Wat Sop, L’Hibiscus has been open for several years and rated amongst the best in town. Hot herbal compress, aromatherapy and even eye treatments are on the menu. L’Hibiscus is in a charming old two-storey building and exudes a soothing atmosphere. 45 Sakhaline Road, 030 923 5079, 10am-10pm.

• L’HIBISCUS SPA

• SANCTUARY MASSAGE This is the place to try a superb Thai herbal compress massage. Sanctuary applies steamed Thai and Chinese herbs to the body in a kneading action to release muscle tension and stiffness. There are also aroma and oriental massages in calming rooms. Sanctuary Hotel, Kitsalat Road, 071 213777, www.sanctuaryluangprabang.com.

Spread over three locations, The Spa Garden (also known as Aroma Spa) has a deep tissue massage, a Mystic Lao massage and a foot massage with herbal creams amongst its signature treatments. Spa products also available for purchase. Ban Phonheuang, 071 212325, 10am-11pm, www. spagardenlpb.com.

• THE SPA GARDEN

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SEE & DO

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VIENTIANE | i:cat gallery | – Museum. Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, or COPE, is a locally run non-profit working with partners to provide rehabilitation services for Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) survivors and other people with disabilities across Laos. The Visitor Centre houses a free exhibition about UXO in Laos, stories from survivors and information on the services provided by COPE. Interactive displays, excellent documentaries and imagery provide a thought-provoking experience to visitors. There is an opportunity to support COPE through the gift shop or a donation. Centre of Medical Rehabilitation, Khouvieng Road, 021 218 427, 9am– 6pm, 7 days, www.copelaos.org.

• COPE VISITOR CENTRE

| Cope Visitor Centre |

• HOUEY HONG VOCATIONAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR WOMEN – Class/Craft. The Centre

provides training and employment for disadvantaged Lao women in the areas of natural dyeing, weaving, tailoring and administration. Visitors can tour the facilities and take part in dyeing and weaving classes creating a unique textile to take home, the cost of which includes transfers, lunch and provides direct support to the Centre. The gift shop sells stylish products made on-site by staff and trainees. Lane 19, Houey Hong Village, 021 560 006, Mon-Sat 8.30am–12pm, 1.30pm–4.30pm, www.houeyhongcentre.com.

• I:CAT GALLERY – Gallery. A bright and inviting

gallery space featuring a revolving programme of engaging exhibitions from local artists working in a range of mediums. A collection of original prints, art books, photography, paintings and handmade cards are permanently for sale in the gallery space and past installations and events have included visual art, music, poetry, film and fashion. 230-231 Thanon Settathirath, Ban Simeuang, 020 7783 9674, Mon-Fri 6pm–8pm, Sat-Sun 1pm-6pm, www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

• LAO BOWLING CENTRE – Activity. A

friendly place for a game of 10 pin by day this unassuming venue is an evening hot spot with crowds flocking here once the regular haunts close. Get here in the early evening if you actually plan to get in a few rounds because by eight o’clock this joint is packed with locals having a laugh over Beerlao and interesting bowling techniques. But bor pen nyang, half the fun is kicking back with friends and waiting for a free lane. There are also snooker tables available for hire. Boulevard Khunbulom (near the National Stadium), 9am–late, 7 days.

• LAO DISABLED WOMEN’S DEVELOPMENT CENTRE – Tour/Craft. A local non-profit run by – Tour. The perfect way to get back to nature while staying close to your base in Vientiane, Green Discovery Laos takes you to the Nam Ngum Resevoir. En route on this guided day-trip participants will get a first-hand look at Hmong village life to meet locals and visit the market before taking in the 11th century archaeological site of Van Xang. At the reservoir you’ll lunch on a floating restaurant and explore fishing villages and small islands by boat before returning to Vientiane. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

• DAY TRIP TO NAM NGUM LAKE

women with disabilities for women with disabilities. In a beautiful setting near the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge the Centre is a hive of activity with training programmes including sewing and needlework, social development and women’s civil rights. Visitors can tour the centre, buy locally-made handicrafts including accessories, fashion items and homewares and learn how they are made. Thadeua Road, Hadsayfong District, 021 812282, 8.30am–5pm, 7 days, www. laodisabledwomen.com.

| Lao Experiences Cooking Class and Food Tours |

• LAO EXPERIENCES COOKING CLASS AND FOOD TOURS – Class/Tour. Join friendly host Nook

as she teaches you to cook popular Lao dishes with fresh ingredients and traditional methods. These fun and interactive classes are held in a leafy garden kitchen by the Mekong River, the perfect setting to throw together a tasty laap or mok pa (banana leaf steamed fish) all of which you’ll devour at the end of class. The additional tour of the largest fresh market in Vientiane is great for those new to Lao ingredients. Bookings at The Full Moon Café or via lao-experiences.com, 020 5569 9429. Classes and Market Tours conducted daily.

• VIENTIANE BYCYCLE – Tour. Explore Vientiane

on two wheels in either a guided half or full-day tour allowing you to uncover a different side to the city. You’ll follow the gentle curve of the Mekong River to explore nearby scenic villages and observe fishermen and local temples. Back in the city centre you’ll pass touristic highlights like glittering temples, the grand Presidential Palace, Patuxai and That Luang while also venturing off the beaten path to capture scenes of Lao daily life in sleepy residential areas. 020 5581 2337, Tours run daily 8am to 5pm, www.vientianebycycle.com.

– Tour. Local tour guides Tuk Tuk Safari specialise in small group educational and interactive tours of Vientiane and surrounds. On this tour patrons will visit the Panyanivej Eco Rice and Fish Farm to have a hand at traditional Lao fishing, rice planting and other farm activities before using fresh farm ingredients to cook a traditional Lao lunch. 020 5433 3089, tours run daytime from Monday to Saturday, www.tuktuksafari.com.

• FROM FARM TO MARKET

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| Lao Disabled Women's Development Centre |


LUANG PRABANG • TRADITIONAL ARTS AND ETHNOLOGY CENTRE – Museum/Craft. Housed in a renovated heritage building

at the foot of Phou Si hill, TAEC is a museum dedicated to the promotion of the culture and knowledge of Laos’ diverse ethnic communities. Several permanent and rotating cultural exhibitions showcase artefacts, traditional art and clothing of Lao ethnic groups and give insight into the diversity and richness of the country. The gorgeous museum shop which keeps handicrafts from village artisans is well worth a look. Guided tours available for an additional fee. Ban Khamyong (behind Dara Market), 071 253 364, taeclaos.org. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 6pm.

– Class. This popular cooking class, run by the restaurant of the same name, has been schooling students in the art of laap for years. Participants will first check out ingredients at a local fresh market then head to Tamarind’s lake-side cooking school to cook and, more importantly, eat. The menu consists of a range of Lao classics including jeow spicy dipping sauces and Tamarind’s signature chicken and herb-stuffed lemongrass. To book and for more information visit tamarindlaos.com. Full day classes Mon-Sat 9am–3pm, evening classes Mon-Fri 4pm–8.30pm.

• TAMARIND COOKING SCHOOL

• ELEPHANT VILLAGE – Tour. Get up close to magnificent

pachyderms at this tourist destination operated by international specialists and volunteers who aim to rescue, protect and rehabilitate elephants in Laos. There are a myriad of activities on offer for visitors including thrilling elephant rides, bathing elephants in the Nam Kahn River, a basic mahout training course and feedings. You can also stay overnight in on-site accommodation, aptly named the Elephant Lodge. To book and for more information visit elephantvillage-laos.com. Tours run 7 days.

| Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre.|

• LUANG PRABANG PILATES – Class.

This group organises beginner/intermediate Pilates classes several times per week. Mat classes take place at Mekong Yoga Studio in Ban Aphai and at a hotel near Dara Market. Private and individual sessions also available. Their website is the best source of current information. www.luangprabangpilates.com

• LUANG PRABANG YOGA – Class.

| Elephant Village |

Luang Prabang Yoga is a cooperative of independent yoga teachers who offer yoga in the city’s most beautiful locations. Classes are held at Utopia Bar and Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre. 90 minute classes are 50,000kip for the expat/ traveller and 30,000 kip for locals. 60 minute classes are 30,000kip for expat/travellers and 20,000 for Lao. Check their website for timetables. www.luangprabangyoga.org | Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre|

• OCK POP TOK LIVING CRAFTS CENTRE – Class/Craft. Take part in a fun hands-on

| Luang Prabang Yoga |

| Luang Prabang Yoga |

workshop and learn traditional weaving and dying techniques from skilled Lao artisans at this handicrafts centre set in lush tropical gardens overlooking the Mekong River. A variety of classes suitable for a range of skill levels are on offer or you could visit the weaving centre for a free tour and observe weavers at their craft. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi Market), 071 212 597, 9am–5pm, 7 days, www.ockpoptok.com.

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PAKSE • KOFFIE’S COFFEE WORKSHOP PAKSONG – Tour. Explore Southern Laos’ renowned coffee country

and see just how beans make it into your morning cup of Joe. You will visit Koffie’s own organic coffee plantation and farm when you’ll see arabica growing, picked, then learn about the husking and drying processes. After lunch you’ll get hands-on in roasting arabica beans yourself and brew yourself a flavourful cup of aromatic java. For more information visit paksong.info/laos_coffee_workshop. php, 020 2276 0439, coffee@paksong.info.

• SINOUK COFFEE RESORT – Garden. A must-

see if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, Sinouk is a name synonymous with coffee in Laos. Surrounding the resort are palatial landscaped gardens which include coffee plants, rock gardens, a lake and waterfalls. Visitors can enjoy a signature locally grown cup of coffee from Sinouk’s nearby plantation in the pavilion restaurant or cafe. For more information visit sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

• TREE TOP EXPLORER AT JUNGLE HOTEL PAKSONG – Tour. Green Discovery Laos lead an

unforgettable adventure in an unparalleled South East Asian mountain forest setting of Champassak province. This tour is not for the faint-hearted with zip-lining over gorges and waterfalls and breathtaking views from a canopy walkway leading to great fun in a stunning environment. Retire to the Jungle Hotel Paksong a cluster of private treehouses set amongst the lush forest. The ultimate experience in nature. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com. | Tree Top Explorer |

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| Sinouk Coffee Resort |


SHOP

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VIENTIANE • LAO FINE ARTS HANDICRAFT JEWELLERY

Superbly crafted, resplendent jewellery made from wood, coconut and silver can be bought here. Other contemporary and more traditional items can also be purchased. 550/01 Thatluang Tai Village, Saysettha District, 020 5542 6993, 9.30am-5.30pm.

• NIGHT MARKET Drawing hordes of tourists and

locals to the riverside each evening you simply can’t miss the two rows of red-topped marquees along the waterfront mingling with smoky food stalls and mountainous balloon displays. The wares on sale may be aimed predominately towards tourists (think t-shirts, trinkets and Buddhist inspired art) but locals shop here too and there are plenty of bargains to be had. Mekong riverfront, Fa Ngum Road, Sunset-9pm, 7 days.

• SAOBAN CRAFTS A treasure trove of handmade

handicrafts created by over 300 artisans from villages across Laos. In store you’ll find unique woven baskets and textiles, exquisite homewares and contemporary jewellery with most goods crafted from natural dyes, local bamboo and organically grown cotton and proceeds going back to the artist. 97/1 Chao Anou Road, Mon-Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 1pm–8pm, www.saobancrafts.com.

| Saoban Crafts |

A delightful gallery and crafts store featuring works from local and visiting artists and producing and selling the Les Artisans Lao range of organic skincare and beauty products. The range includes luscious body creams and soaps, all-natural repellents and aromatic oils. Vat Inpeng Street, 021 223 178, Mon-Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 10am–6pm, www.artisanslao.com.

• T’SHOP LAI GALLERY

Intricate traditional Lao textiles are displayed in this beautiful gallery-workshop whose local weavers have exhibited in US museums. Carol works alongside local weavers to produce some incredibly complex and attractive pieces, specialising in 100% hand-woven silk. Noekummane Road, Ban Mixay, Mon-Fri 8am-12pm & 2pm-5pm, Sat 8am-12pm, www. laotextiles.com.

• CAROL CASSIDY TEXTILES

| Ministry of Silk |

| Carol Cassidy Textiles |

Radiant silks and authentic handicrafts line the walls of Finer Things. The shop, set over two floors, has a flowing selection of traditional Lao skirts, colourful silks and figurines made from the delicate material. 34/03 Francois Ngin Road, 9am-6.30pm.

• FINER THINGS

The Ministry of Silk displays a vast array of fine men’s and women’s clothing, fashion accessories, jewellery and handbags. The label is Laos’ first ready-to-wear collection and this flagship is one of the most prestigious stores in Vientiane, serving champagne and wine to customers. 99/01 Nam Phou Square, 021 213 776, 9am-9pm, 7 days, www.ministryofsilk.com.

• MINISTRY OF SILK

Monument Books has good-sized fiction and regional literature sections, as well as children’s travel, arts and history shelves. Travel guidebooks are available and Southeast Asian newspapers and international magazines are just inside the door. Nokeokoummane Road, 021 243 708, Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm, www.monument-books. com.

• MONUMENT BOOKS

| T'Shop Lai Gallery |

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LUANG PRABANG • PHOSI MARKET

A small distance away from the centre of town lies Phosi Market. This space sees every smell, sound and sight stake a corner as meat, spices, fresh vegetables, and fruits live side by side with those selling phones, watches and house wares. If you’re after a glimpse of local life, don’t miss this. Photisalath Road, south of Phou Vao Rd, 7am-5pm.

• L’ETRANGER BOOKS & TEA This quaint book café

This is a non-profit self-help project that supports village women by providing a space for them to sell their goods to a wider audience. Handmade products show off traditional patterns and craft techniques and make excellent mementos or gifts. Ounkham Road, Ban Wath Nong, Luang Prabang, 071 254594, www.camacrafts.org.

• PASSA PAA

• CAMA CRAFTS

All products in here are handmade from wood or silk and wholly produced in Laos, overseen by the shop’s Canadian owner. There are wooden bowls, bed spreads, Buddha heads and cushions to catch the customer’s eye. Sakkarine Road, 071 254574, 9am-9pm, www.carusolao.com.

• CARUSO LAO

A boutique shop with shelves of original souvenirs and handicrafts. The store seeks to help local people by working with them to sell their products and improve their livelihoods. Many of the souvenirs are made from recycled paper, bamboo and other natural materials. Sisangvong Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 071 260 654, 8am-9pm, www.matesai.com.

• MA TE SAI

Down the length of Sisavangvong Rd is the city’s famous Night Market. Weave under awnings to admire handicrafts such as rosewood carvings and silver jewellery, alongside herbal teas, rice paper diaries and beautiful linen dresses. It’s a friendly market and bargains are to be had. Sisangvong Road, 5pm-11pm, 7 days (weather dependent).

• NIGHT MARKET

A shop with a difference. Ock Pop Tok seeks to empower local women by developing their artistic skills and sells their items. Woven textiles, bags and scarves are on offer, while they also run classes for visitors who want to try their hand at production or just admire artisans at work. The group also has a flagship store in Ban Vat Nong. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Sene, 071 253 219, 8am-9pm, www.ockpoptok.com.

• OCK POP TOK

• TRADITIONAL ARTS & ETHNOLOGY CENTRE

Although better known as a museum, the centre also supports over 500 handicraft producers from across Laos. They sell beaded necklaces, belts, backpacks, jewellery and lots of other items that showcase the enormous ethnic diversity of Laos. Kitsalat Road, Ban Khamyong, 071 253 364, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm, www. taeclaos.org.

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lies close to the Nam Khan River and sells second-hand books. It’s well-stocked and has novels in many languages that cover the arts, travel, fiction, culture and regional history. Over 70 varieties of tea are for sale upstairs. Phousi Road, Ban Aphay, 071 212 880, Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 10am-10pm. The culmination of British and Lao creative minds, this store is the shopfront for the textile and accessories label of the same name. The label explores the language of desing that has evolved in Laos to re-think, re-interpret, and re-construct patterns, symbols and forms into contemporary bags, scarves, purses and more. 79 Ban Vat Sene, 020 5541 1244, 7 days 8am-8pm, www. passa-paa.com.

| Passa Paa | | Ma Te Sai |


A Stylish Budget Accommodation Option in Luang Prabang

The Ultimate Relaxation Hideaway FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT:

125 Unit 7, Bane Vixoun, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: +856 (0) 71 212 642, +856 (0) 71 252 933 www.tropicaloasispark.com


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VIENTIANE | Green Park Boutique Hotel |

| Salana Boutique Hotel |

• GREEN PARK BOUTIQUE HOTEL – Boutique.

Each of the 34 rooms at this exquisite hotel pairs traditional Lao-style orientation with fine contemporary architecture. The elegance of the interiors, both historic and modern, matched with the lush garden setting create a sophisticated blend of style, luxury and relaxing accommodation. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, city shuttle. 12 Khouvieng Road, 021 264 097, greenparkvientiane.com. Open 24 hours. Restaurant open 7 days 11.30am – 2.30pm, 6.30pm – 10.30pm.

• SALANA BOUTIQUE HOTEL – Top end. The

grand façade of the Salana Boutique Hotel embodies sophistication and inside guests can escape the hustle and bustle and experience premier Lao hospitality. Designed to impress even the most discerning guests the ample rooms feature luxurious bedding and are tastefully decorated with Lao objects d’art. Free WiFi, spa, business. 112 Chao Anou Road, 021 254 254, salanaboutique.com. Open 24 hours

• MANDALA BOUTIQUE HOTEL – Mid range/ boutique. A hip 1960s house turned hotel, the Mandala Boutique Hotel has operated under many guises but none as cool as this boutique stay. In recent years the villa has been refreshed with colourful modern rooms but the unique spirit of the structure has been retained. Stay in and experience the beautiful grounds at night at the open air Mandala Restaurant. Free WiFi, bicycles to rent, transfers. Baan Phiavat, 021 214 493, mandalahotel.asia. Open 24 hours.

– Mid range. Influenced by traditional Lao architecture Phasouk Residence offers carefully designed and decorated rooms that encapsulate warmth, comfort and relaxation. The specious deluxe suites feature plush king beds, elegant Lao objects and textiles and bay windows opening onto a private balconies. The cosier deluxe rooms offer similar understated elegance with double or twin beds. Free WiFI, spa, transfers. 57/4 Wat Xieng Gneun Road, 021 243 415, phasoukresidence.com. Open 24 hours.

• PHASOUK RESIDENCE

• IHOUSE – Mid range. Situated behind the iconic

Nam Phou Fountain, a popular gathering place in the heart of Vientiane, iHouse is the perfect option for those who want to stay where the action is without the usual city centre price tag. Tidy, colourful rooms come in a range of configurations from budget to deluxe, all rooms feature comfy queen beds. Free WiFi. 72/6 Pang Kham Street, 021 217 053, ihouse-laos.com. Open 24 hours. | Ansara Hotel |

• ANSARA HOTEL – Boutique. Tucked down a

leafy laneway this boutique destination will delight even the most discerning guests. An elegant hideaway in the bustling city centre the 14 rooms, with private balconies looking onto manicured tropical gardens, exude understated colonial charm. In this location you’ll be surrounded by countless dining options but with excellent in-house restaurant La Signature at hand you won’t need to look far for exquisite epicure. Free WiFi, breakfast included, business. Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, 021 213 514, ansarahotel.com. Open 24 hours.

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| Ansara Hotel |

– Top end. Mercure Vientiane is a 4 star-hotel that caters to both business and leisure travellers. This charming hotel is positioned conveniently close to Wattay International Airport, the Mekong River waterfront and the town centre with its many restaurants, cafes and bars. Enjoy fantastic service, sumptuous buffet or a la carte dining and a sunny pool terrace bar. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness. Unit 10 Samsenthai Road, 021 213 570, accorhotels.com. Open 24 hours. Le Café open 7 days 6am – 10pm, Poolside and Lobby bars open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

• MERCURE VIENTIANE

– Mid range. Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre you’ll be at the doorstep of Vientiane’s myriad of bars, cafes and restaurants in this family-run hotel. The warm and inviting atmosphere extends to the spotless guest rooms which are decorated with Lao artworks and ornate carved timber furniture. Free WiFi, pool, business, transfers. Rue Nokeokoumane, Ban Mixay, 021 244 284, chanthapanyahotel.com. Open 24 hours.

• CHANTHAPANYA HOTEL

– Top end. A preferred destination for travellers to Vientiane this is the country’s first five star hotel and is setting new standards in luxury hospitality. Over 130 rooms pair thoughtful Lao-influenced décor with modern conveniences. Opportunities for relaxation abound with a glistening swimming pool and traditional massages available from the spa. An array of cuisines are on offer in-house. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, business. 63 Samsenthai Road, 021 218 800, laoplazahotel.com. Open 24 hours.

• LAO PLAZA HOTEL

• VIENTIANE PLAZA HOTEL – Mid range. A top

choice for business traveller and officials the Vientiane Plaza Hotel. For those looking for a business base while in town the convenient on-site office complex has hot desks and private spaces for rent. To unwind the fully-equipped fitness centre, tennis court and massage and spa centre are on hand. Spa, business. Sailom Road, Hatsady Neua Village, 020 2300 0433, vientianeplazalao.com. Open 24 hours.


VIENTIANE – Top end. This remarkable hotel is housed in a 1930s mansion which has been restored to its former imperial glory capturing an era of classic elegance, gracious service and French colonial sophistication. Light-filled rooms enjoy high ceilings and elegant touches like four-poster beds with down feather pillows and hardwood floors. Free WiFi, pool, breakfast included, business. 6 Pang Kham Street, 021 217 581, setthapalace.com. Open 24 hours.

• SETTHA PALACE HOTEL

– Mid range. If you’re looking to get back to nature the nine private bungalows surrounded by tranquil tropical gardens at Auberge Sala Inpeng might just do the trick. Situated in the Inpeng Temple Area of Vientiane you’d never know the riverfront and bustling city are right at your doorstep. The bungalows are designed like traditional timber Lao houses and are completed with comfortable furnishings, air-conditioning and private bathrooms. 63/6 Inpeng Street, Ban Wat Chanh, 021 242 021, salalao.com/Sala_Inpeng/Content/Inpeng. htm. Open 24 hours.

• AUBERGE SALA INPENG

| Settha Palace Hotel |

• VIENTIANE GARDEN HOTEL – Mid range. Situated

in a peaceful corner of the city this small hotel offers contemporary-styled rooms surrounding a tranquil swimming pool and gardens. A truly modern experience each spacious room is complete with comfy beds, newly renovated bathrooms, LCD televisions and slick decor. The dedicated and professional staff will go out of their way to make your stay in Vientiane a special one. Free WiFi, pool. 56 Sihome Road, Ban Sihome, 021 241 963, vientianegardenhotel. com. Open 24 hours.

• DON CHAN PALACE, HOTEL & CONVENTION CENTRE – Top end. Commanding attention from its

location on the edge of the majestic Mekong River, Don Chan Palace offers sweeping views of Vientiane and northern Thailand. Each room, from the Classic to the Presidential Suite has been designed for comfort and convenience with plush beds, luxurious bathtubs and quality amenities. Sporting, leisure and dining facilities are first rate. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, business, shuttle service. Unit 6 Piwat Village, Sisatanak District, 021 244 288, donchanpalacelaopdr.com. Open 24 hours.

• RASHMI’S PLAZA HOTEL – Top end.

A stylish and modern luxury hotel with easy access to the city centre and cultural and tourist sites. Guest rooms offer a range of accommodation options from cosy to decadent elegance and each room is a unique space specifically crafted to meet the tastes of guests with modern furnishings and stylish finishing touches. Free WiFi, pool, spa, fitness. Thadeua Road, Ban Beungkhayong-Tai, 021 315 088, rashmishotel. com. Open 24 hours. – Top end. Perfect for an extended stay Parkview offers wellappointed serviced apartments in studio, one or two bedroom configurations. Situated in downtown Vientiane with easy access to Wattay International Airport Parkview offers modern amenities to the business travelled will a fully equipped meeting room and business centre. Top of the range recreational facilities include immaculate tennis courts, swimming pool, fitness centre, sauna and Jacuzzi. Luang Prabang Road, 021 250 888, parkviewexecutive. com. Open 24 hours.

• PARKVIEW EXECUTIVE SUITES

Vientiane’s Only Historical Luxury Hotel

www.setthapalace.com E-mail: reservations@setthapalace.com 6 Pang Kham Street, Vientiane, Lao PDR Tel: (856) 21-217581/2 • Fax: (856) 21-217583 A Belmont International Hotel

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LUANG PRABANG

| Le Sen Boutique Hote |

• 3 NAGAS HOTEL – Boutique. An intimate and

• SATRI HOUSE – Boutique. Located in the heart

charming boutique hotel situated on Luang Prabang’s main street across three heritage UNESCO-protected buildings. Each of the 15 rooms embodies simple and traditional sophistication with exotic hardwood floors, torchis walls and clay roof tiles. A range of configurations offer king and twin beds and you can opt for exclusive airport transfers and city tours in one of two immaculate vintage cars. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, 3-nagas.com. Open 24 hours.

• LE SEN BOUTIQUE HOTEL – Top end. Just a

15 minute stroll from old Luang Prabang but from Le Sen’s lush secluded gardens the city centre will feel a world away. Polished stone and neutral palettes create a slick yet soothing contemporary ambience to the 19 spacious rooms, each of which come with private balconies that overlook a central swimming pool. Free WiFi, pool, fitness, shuttle service to city centre. 113 Manomai Road, Ban Mano, 071 261 668, lesenhotel. com. Open 24 hours.

of the city, Satri House was built at the turn of the last century as the residence of Price Soupha-nouvong. It has been restored to its original elegance and is now renowned as one of the most exquisite structures in the city. Superior crafted wood furnishings are an ambient addition to each of the 31 rooms which feature generous balconies that look onto the manicured grounds. Free WiFi, pool, spa. 57 Photisarath Road, Ban Thatluang, 071 253 491, satrihouse.com. Open 24 hours. .

– Boutique. A truly beautiful experience in Luang Prabang, The Apsara cultivates a sense of effortless elegance from the banks of the Nam Khan. Colonial charm meets luxe cool in each of the spacious bedrooms with crisp linens, traditional silks, quirky objects d’art with balconies and terraces overlooking the river. If you’re looking to spend your holiday poolside the equally captivating sister hotel The Apsara Rive Droite is just across the river. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Phanluang, 071 254 252, theapsara.com. Open 24 hours.

• THE APSARA

| 3 Nagas Hotel |

| Satri House |

• VILLA MALY HOTEL – Top end. A residence

of charm, 33 art deco-inspired rooms are housed in seven low-rise buildings on this sprawling estate, just a short walk from the historic heart of the city. Each room is furnished with a blend of French and British colonial touches including classic adornments like hardwood floors, ornate rugs and old-world armchairs and with pool and garden views has the feel of staying in a private villa. Free WiFi, spa, pool. BP 158, 071 253 902, villa-maly. com. Open 24 hours.

| Ock Pop Tok Mekong Villa |

| Villa Maly Hotel |

• OCK POP TOK MEKONG VILLA – Mid range/ Boutique. Nestled on the banks of the Mekong River,

award-winning textile centre Ock Tok Pop have created a truly relaxing and unique stay in a tropical paradise. Each of the four rooms combines contemporary design with colourful tribe motifs and the two Mekong facing rooms offer unrivalled views of the river. A free shuttle service will take you into town. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi market), 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 24 hours. | Ock Pop Tok Mekong Villa |

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Riverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam Song

12 Khouvieng Rd, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR Phone: +856 21 26 4097 Fax: +856 21 26 3064 Email : info@greenparkvientiane.com www.greenparkvientiane.com

Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng Vientiane Province, Lao PDR Phone: +856 (0)23 511 726-8 Fax: +856 (0)23 511 729 Email: info@riversidevangvieng.com www.riversidevangvieng.com

Green Park Boutique Hotel - Elegance and Timeless Comfort in the Heart of Vientiane


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VANG VIENG • RIVERSIDE BOUTIQUE RESORT – Top end/ Boutique. A tropical oasis nestled on the banks of

the Nam Song River, Riverside Boutique Resort is a stylishly modern haven in Vang Vieng. Each of the 34 spacious suites are elegantly furnished with artworks and decors inspired by several ethnic groups of Laos, pairing perfectly with contemporary comforts like luxurious bedding and high-end amenities. The pristine swimming pool and the in-house restaurant and bar take in unparalleled views of the river and its sweeping mountainscapes. Gift shop, pool. Ban Viengkeo, 023 511 726-8, riversidevangvieng.com.

| Riverside Boutique Resort | – Mid range. A beautiful Lao-style villa located in the heart of Vang Vieng – just steps away from all of the local highlights. The 28 well-appointed rooms come in a range of configurations to suit everyone from the comfort-seeker to the budget-conscious traveller. An airy rooftop terrace, complete with sun lounges, is the perfect spot to admire the surrounding ancient limestone mountain vistas. On-site eatery ‘The Kitchen’ serves up hearty local and international fare. Free WiFi. Ban Savang, 023 511 070, inthira.com.

• INTHIRA VANG VIENG

• THE ELEPHANT CROSSING HOTEL – Boutique.

Set along the Nam Song River, complete with breathtaking views of Vang Vieng’s majestic natural surrounds is The Elephant Crossing Hotel. A charming getaway, this hotel offers guests 31 rooms, all designed with comfort, elegance and convenience in mind. In addition to classic hardwood floors and spacious en suite facilities, each room features a generous private balcony which looks directly onto the river and mountains. Ban Viengkeo, 023 511 232, theelephantcrossinghotel.com.

PAKSE • WATERFALL RESORT BAN E-TU PAKSONG – Mid range. A

small cluster of charming bungalows on the site of a former coffee and tea plantation just outside of Paksong. A perfect spot for rest and relaxation if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, the resort offers spotless private villas with helpful staff who can guide you on what to see, do and eat in the area. The restaurant serves traditional Lao fare made from fresh local ingredients. 020 2866 2809, waterfalletupaksong.com. – Mid range. The first multistorey building constructed under the supervision of the last King of Southern Laos, this hotel was originally the entertainment hub of Pakse housing a casino and cinema. Now owned and run by a French-Lao couple the hotel blends local influences with French Indochina spirit with cosy rooms and excellent service. Street 5, Ban Watkouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.com. Open 24 hours.

• PAKSE HOTEL

• SINOUK COFFEE RESORT – Mid range. Two chalets nestled amongst

of the famous Sinouk Coffee plantation and manicured gardens. Guests have the choice to stay alongside a bubbling river and small waterfall at Chalet I or closer to the plantation in Chalet II, each bungalow contains spotless private ensuite bedrooms and a shared lounge and living room and terrace but it’s so peaceful here you’d barely know you had any neighbours. Tatheng – Bolaven Plateau, sinouk@laopdr.com, sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

| Sinouk Coffee Resort |

SAVANNAKHET • SALA SAVANH – Mid range.

Housed in a renovated 1920s colonial building Sala Savanh sits pretty in the heart of Savannakhet historical centre. Five superior rooms are neat and tidy with high ceilings, vintage-look cane furniture and spacious balconies on the upper floor. Free WiFi. 020 5564 5111, salalao@laotel.com, salalao.com/Salalao/Content/Savanh.htm.

• LEENA GUESTHOUSE – Mid range. A friendly option if you’re passing through Savannakhet, Leena’s is a little off the main drag but you can rent a bike for a quick ride. There’s a variety of tidy rooms on offer for different price ranges so ask to take a look at what’s available to find one that’s right for you and your travelling budget, service is super friendly so they will be happy to help. Close to a number of cheap eats, internet cafes and the Mekong River. Free WiFi. Chaokeem Road, 020 9927 4994, leenaguesthouse.blogspot.com.

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MAP OF

Vientiane

VIENTIANE As the nation's capital, Vientiane is a must-experience city when traveling through Laos. Vientiane became the capital in 1563 because of fears surrounding Burmese invasion. Under French rule, it became the administrative capital and in recent times the city has emerged as the country's economic hub. Sitting on the northern banks of the Mekong river, the city has a colourful culture, amazing hospitality and is home to an enviable local and international dining scene. With its French colonial characteristics and leafy boulevards surrounded by rustic temples and coconut palms, this is a city that mixes colonial architecture with a tropical environment. The laidback atmosphere is ideal for visitors, and it is rapidly becoming one of the most fascinating cities to see in Asia.

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