Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine issue 20 by Sabaidee Magazine

Greetings readers! We hope you liked reading our August issue last month and have had a chance to get on a bicycle and try out some of the routes we featured on the cover. In this issue’s Spotlight On section we guide you through some of the places to buy organic food in Vientiane, from the open air markets at That Luang to startup companies bringing ethically sourced produce to the city’s supermarkets. Our Sabaidee Cover feature explores the magnificent limestone formations of the Thakhek Loop in central Laos by motorbike. There is nowhere on earth that looks quite like Khammouane province – the sheer cliffs and cavernous caves have to be seen to be believed. Also in this issue we travel to the little-known town of Nong Khiaw in the north of the country. Nestled in the dense jungle, this is a great place to get in touch with nature with some unique trekking opportunities. Can’t wait until your next holiday? Maybe you don’t have to! In this month’s edition of The Good Guide we review four weekend escapes from the Vientiane that get you far away from the bustle of the city in no time at all, along with our usual curated list of things to see and do around Laos. Find Sabaidee Magazine in your favourite cafes, restaurants, hotels and spas from the 15th of every month. Got suggestions, comments or an event you’d like to see featured? Email our editor on editor@sabaidee-magazine.com. Enjoy the issue!

Phanhlakhone Syboonheung The Director

Note DIRECTOR'S

ສະບາຍດີທ່ານຜູ້ອ່ານ!

ພວກເຮົ າ ຫວັງ ວ່າ ບັນ ດາທ່າ ນຈະໄດ້ເ ພີ ດ ເພີ ນ ໄປກັບ ການອ່າ ນວາລະສານຂອງພວກເຮົ າ ສະບັບເດືອນສິງຫາທີ່ຜ່ານມານີ້ ແລະ ມີໂອກາດໄດ້ໄປຂີ່ລົດຖີບເລາະລຽບໄປຕາມເສັ້ນທາງທີ່ ພວກເຮົາແນະນຳ�ໃນສະບັບທີ່ແລ້ວ.

ໃນພາກສະປ໋ອດໄລ້ ອອນ ສະບັບນີ້, ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ນຳ�ພາທ່ານໄປສູ່ບັນດາແຫຼ່ງຊື້ຂາຍອາຫານ ປອດສານພິດ (ກະສິກຳ�ອິນຊີ) ໃນນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ, ນັບຕັ້ງແຕ່ຕະຫຼາດສົດຢູ່ທາດຫຼວງ ໄປຈົນຮອດບັນດາບໍລິສັດຕ່າງໆທີ່ຜະລິດສິນຄ້າສົ່ງຂາຍຢູ່ຕາມຮ້ານຄ້າຕ່າງໆໃນຕົວເມືອງວຽງ ຈັນໂດຍມີແຫຼ່ງຜ ະລິດທ ເີ່ ປັນທຳ�ຕກ ໍ່ ະສກ ິ ອນ. ສ່ວນເລື່ອງເດັ່ນຈາກຫນ້າປົກສະບາຍດີສະບັບນີ້ ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ພາທ່ານໄປຄົ້ນພົບບັນດາພູຫີນປູນຫີນຍ້ອຍຂອງທ່າແຂກ ອັນແສນງົດງາມອະລັງການ ຢູ່ທາງພາກກາງຂອງປະເທດລາວໂດຍການ ຂີ່ລົດຈັກໄປເລາະຊົມ. ແຂວງຄຳ�ມ່ວນນີ້ ມີຄວາມເປັນເອກະລັກຫຼາຍ ຍາກທີ່ຈະຫາບ່ອນອື່ນໃດໃນ ໂລກນີ້ມາປຽບປານ ເຊິ່ງທ່ານເອງຈະຕ້ອງໄດ້ໄປເຫັນກັບຕາ ກັບບັນດາຫນ້າຜາອັນສູງຊັນ ແລະ ຖ້ຳ�ທີ່ເປັນໂ ພງກວ້າງໃຫຍ່ ຈຶ່ງຈ ະເຊື່ອວ ່າສະຖານທີ່ແຫ່ງນີ້ມ ີຄວາມມະຫັດສ ະຈັນຢ່າງແທ້ຈິງ. ນອກຈາກນັ້ນແລ້ວ ໃນສະບັບນີ້ ພວກເຮົາຍັງໄດ້ເດີນທາງທ່ອງທ່ຽວໄປເມືອງນ້ອຍໆທີ່ບໍ່ຄ່ອຍມີໃຜ ຮູ້ຈັກກໍ່ຄືໜອງຂຽວ ທີ່ຢູ່ທາງພາກເໜືອຂອງລາວເຮົາ ສະຖານທີ່ແຫ່ງນີ້ ຕັ້ງຢູ່ທ່າມກາງປ່າດົງພົງ ໄພຈຶ່ງເ ໝາະແກ່ກ ານພັກຜ ່ອນຢ່ອນໃຈ ເພື່ອສຳ�ຜັດກັບທຳ �ມະຊາດຢ່າງແທ້ຈິງ ແລະ ຍັງມີເສັ້ນທ າງ ການເດີນປ ່າອັນເ ປັນເ ອກະລັກໄວ້ໃ ຫ້ທ ່ານໄດ້ທ ົດລ ອງຍ່າງປ່ານຳ�ອີກ.

ທ່ານຮູ້ສຶກບໍ່ ວ່າຢາກຈະໄປທ່ອງທ່ຽວພັກຜ່ອນໃຈສິຂາດແລ້ວ ແຕ່ບໍ່ມີໂອກາດໄດ້ພັກການຈັກ ເທື່ອ? ຄູ່ມືແນະນຳ�ດີໆຂອງພວກເຮົາໃນສະບັບນີ້ ຈະພາທ່ານຫຼົບໜີຈາກຕົວເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ໄປ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວທ້າຍອາທິດຢູ່ 4 ສະຖານທີ່ນຳ�ກັນ ເຊິ່ງໃຊ້ເວລາເດີນທາງອອກຈາກຕົວເມືອງພຽງ ແຕ່ບຶ ດ ດຽວເທົ່າ ນັ້ນ ໄປຄຽງຄູ່ກັນ ກັບ ບັນ ດາລາຍການສິີ່ງ ທີ່ໜ້າ ສົນ ໃຈ ກໍ່ຄື ບ່ອ ນກິ ນ ແລະ ບ່ອນທ່ຽວຕ່າງໆໃນທົ່ວລາວ. ທ່ານສາມາດຊອກຫາ ວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ ໄດ້ຕາມບັນດາຮ້ານກາເຟ, ຮ້ານອາຫານ, ໂຮງແຮມ ແລະ ສະປາຕ່າງໆໃນວັນທີ 15 ຂອງທຸກໆເດືອນ. ຖ້າທ່ານມີຄວາມຄິດຄວາມເຫັນ, ຄຳ�ແນະນຳ�, ມີ ງ ານ ຫຼື ກິ ດ ຈະກຳ�ຕ່າ ງໆ ທີ່ຢ າກໃຫ້ພ ວກເຮົ າ ລົງ ໃນວາລະສານ ທ່າ ນກໍ່ສ າມາດສົ່ງ ອີ ເ ມລ ມາຫາບັນນາທິການຂອງພວກເຮົາໄດ້ທີ່ editor@sabaidee-magazine.com. ຂໍໃຫ້ທ່ານມ່ວນຊື່ນໄປກັບການອ່ານວາລະສານຂອງພວກເຮົາ!

ພັນລ ະຄອນ ສີບ ຸນເ ຮືອງ ຜອຳ�ນວຍການ ູ

THIS ISSUE

ON THE COVER Cliffs and Caves - Motorcycling through the karst plains of central Laos

SEPTEMBER 2014

photo provided by the Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism's PR Department

News & Events 10 14

What's On What's New

Travel 28 Further Afield: Nong Khiaw - A tiny town amongst the mountains 34 Sabaidee Cover: Cliffs and Caves - Motorcycling through the spectacular karst plains of central Laos 42 Sabaidee’s Guide To: Weekend Escapes - Two-day trips out of Vientiane

Lifestyle 22 24 41

My City: My Xaysomboun Spotlight On: Eating Clean in the Capital - Vientiane’s best organic produce The Good Guide: EAT, DRINK, RELAX, SHOP, SEE & DO, SLEEP listings

CONTRIBUTORS HANNAH MCDONALD-MONIZ

MICHELLE LUEHMAN

Hannah has been living in Laos and traveling extensively in the region since 2010. She tries toconnect with each location she visits through the lens of her camera, and works as a freelance mediaconsultant. Her other passions include language learning and trying new foods. See her blog,photography, and videos on her website www.seethinkexplore.com.

Michelle has spent the last 20 years living and working around the world, and most of that time has been spent around Asia. An avid observer of people and places, she has written extensively about life in Asia, both as a visitor and a resident. She has worked for lifestyle and travel magazines around the globe capturing the essence and flavour of life in each different locality.

JAMES ELTON-PYM

On the cusp of finishing his journalism degree in Sydney, Australia, James decided to put off the inevitable and instead move to Laos, despite being too tall to fit through any of the country’s doorways, to work as a subeditor for the Vientiane Times newspaper. James helped with coverage of the 2013 Australian election for News Corporation and was the host of a local current affairs programme on a Sydney community station. He likes to write stories about little individuals that create big changes, especially in the environment.

KRISTEN MARANO

RACHEL ARBING

SHAYLING NGO

Rachel Arbing is a primary school teacher who hails from the tiny Prince Edward Island in Canada. Last year she traded her fast-paced life in Seoul, South Korea for a more laid-back one in Vientiane. Wherever she is, Rachel loves capturing the vibrancy of local people and places through the lens of her camera.

A recent journalism graduate from Australia, Shayling relocated to Vientiane in order to pursue her dreams of writing and travelling. Intrigued by Southeast Asian cultures she hopes to share her adventures and experiences with the world, one word at a time.

Kristen is currently travelling and working in the Asia Pacific. She's a freelance communications consultant working with entrepreneurs and startups, as well as a regular contributor to Huffington Post Canada where she writes about style and travel.

WHERE WE ARE XAYABOURY

Home to the Land of Million Elephants’ highest pachyderm population. Each year in February Laotians and travellers flock here to pay their respects to these magnificent endangered creatures during the annual Elephant Festival.

LUANG PRABANG

Tranquil heritage-listed city boasting exquisite handicrafts, rich cultural sites steeped in history, a cosmopolitan bar scene and oodles of French colonial charm, all where the idyllic Nam Kahn and Mekong rivers meet. The perfect destination for the discerning traveller, the city is dotted with boutique hotels and spas.

SAVANNAKHET

Sitting on the banks of the Mekong, this growing city is the second-largest in Laos. The town centre houses ambient French Colonial architecture and small and friendly eateries are dotted along the riverfront. Just beyond the city you’ll find excellent trekking routes through the nearby Dong Natad Protected Area.

VANG VIENG

One-time party haven turned an outdoor enthusiasts dream, the small town is set to a backdrop of magnificent limestone karsts and lush forest. Nothing beats whiling a day away kayaking down the Nam Song river or taking a dip at the serene blue lagoon – utter relaxation in nature.

VIENTIANE

Increasingly modern bustling capital with a trailblazing dining scene that must be tasted to be believed. Here you’ll find intricately adorned temples sitting alongside Parisian-style boulangeries, glossy developments, a young emerging creative scene, and some of the country’s most lively marketplaces.

THAKHEK

A launching pad for the captivating Thakhek Loop. Throw your kit on a rented motorbike and set off on a 4-day journey to explore the hidden Buddha Cave, secluded water holes, tiny villages and, the main attraction, Kong Lor Cave which houses a snaking river system accessed only by motorboat.

PAKSE

The capital of the southern province of Champassak, Pakse is the gateway to the picturesque Bolaven Plateau which is home to an abundance of scenic waterfalls and motorcycle routes, and is widely regarded as producing some of the highest-quality coffee in the country.

WHO'S

[ ຄະນະທີປ ່ ກ ຶ ສາ / Consultants ] ພັດທະລະພົງ ຄົງວິຈດ ິ Pattarapong Kongvijit / ວິສດ ິ ເຊົາວະລິດຕານົນ Wisith Chawalitanon / ມານະໄຊ ອິນແກ້ວ Manachai Inkaew / ສົມໃຈ ພິມຜາສຸກ Somjai Pimpasouk [ ຜູອຳນວຍການ / Director ] ພັນລະຄອນ ສີບຸນເຮືອງ Phanhlakhone Syboonheung [ ບັນນາທິການອຳນວຍການ / Editorial Director ] ເກດ ພິດທະຢາກອນສິນ Gaid Kornsilapa [ ບັນນາທິການບໍລິຫານ / Editor in Chief ] ຄຳສວນ ຈັນທະລາດ Khamsouan Chanthalat [ ບັນນາທິການ ພາສາອັງກິດ / English Editor ] ເຈມສ ເອລຕັນ-ພິມ James Elton-Pym [ ບັ ນ ນາທິ ກ ານອອນລາຍ / Online Editor ] ຂະນິ ດ ຖາ ອັ ດ ຕະເມດ Kanittha Attamate [ ຜູອຳນວຍການຝາຍຂາຍ / Sales & Marketing Director ] ຊະຍາດາ ອະລິຍະພົນຈະເລີນ Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen [ ປະສານງານການຕະຫຼາດ / Marketing Co-ordinator ] ບຸນລອດ ສິດທິພົງ Bounlod Sittiphong [ ທີມງານຂ່າວ / Reporter ] ເທບພະວົງສອນ ບົວພາ Thepphavongsone Bouapha [ ຈັດໜາ ແລະ ອອກແບບ / Layout Design ] ນັດນະລີ ມາທອງ Nutnaree Mathong / ທະນະວັດ ຄົງແສນຄຳ Thanawatt Khongseankhum / ວັນວິລາດ ບຸນລັດ Wanvilart Boonyaratana [ ຫອງການວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ / Sabaidee Magazine Sales Office THM Lao Co., Ltd. ] 256 ບ້ານ ໜອງບອນ ເມືອງໄຊເສດຖາ ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ສປປ ລາວ 265 Baan Nongbone, Xayxetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R [ ໂທ / ແຟັກ: / Tel / Fax ] +856 21 454782 / +856 21 454782 / Mobile: +856 20 5516 2440, +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 (Thai) [ ອີເມລ ບັນນາທິການ / ້ ດ ັ ພິມ / Owner & Publisher ] Editor Email ] editor@sabaidee-magazine.com [ ອີເມລ ຝາຍຂາຍ / Sales Email ] chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com [ ເຈົາ້ ຂອງ ແລະ ຜູຈ ທີ ເອັສ ເອັມ ລາວ THM Lao www.sabaidee-magazine.com [ ພິມທີ່ / Print by ] ໂຮງພິມ ລາວຍູນິພຮິນ ຈຳກັດ Lao Uniprint Press Co., Ltd

ONLINE EDITION ALSO AVAILABLE AT:

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LAO

All material appearing in Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission to the copyright holder. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the view of the publisher of the magazine. Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

WHAT'S ON DANCE.

SPORT.

LEARN TO BACHATA AND SALSA

COUNTDOWN TO AFL GRAND FINAL

Tuesdays for Bachata, Thursdays for Salsa, 9pm-10pm, April 12, Vientiane April 12 opens their dance floor for classes in Bachata and Salsa each week. Enjoy Latin music while teachers Erzio and Amantha teach you the moves from 9pm-10pm, followed by free dance time. Bachata classes are free, while Salsa classes are 35,000 kip per person per session. For more information visit www. facebook.com/april12.restaurant.

Weekly, AFL games as per schedule until Grand Final day on September 27, Sticky Fingers, Vientiane Sticky Fingers will show all televised afternoon, evening and weekend Australian Rules football games from their upper level bar area, Sticky Jocks. Enjoy a cold beer and some classic pub fare, including Aussie meat pies, as you cheer on your favourite team. This year’s Grand Final will be on September 27. While there’re no games the area will be business as usual. For more information visit www.facebook.com/StickyFingersLaos.

ART.

RUST, PAINT AND DYE September 27 and October 10, i:cat Gallery, Vientiane On September 27 between 5 – 8pm, come in to i:cat Gallery to see Helen Biles’ eclectic body of word ‘A Memory of Rust’, created with a combination of natural dyes, rust, fabrics and printing techniques. The pieces draw inspiration from the landscape and convey a strong sense of place and time. Then on October 10 from 6 – 9pm, see Lao artist Ole Viravong Scovill’s first solo exhibition: ‘My World, My Style, My Inspiration II’. The expressionistic work uses vibrant colours to evoke strong emotions. The artist has mostly drawn images of female figures and organic forms. The gallery is also opening a new space upstairs to allow more room for exhibitions.

STORIES FROM THE WOMEN OF NORTHERN LAOS October 7, TAEC, Luang Prabang The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC) in Luang Prabang will open a new exhibition on October 7 featuring photographs, documentary videos, oral histories and community research about the lives of women in the rapidly changing country of Laos. The exhibition is the culmination of a two-year project carried out in collaboration with PhotoForward. People from six ethnic groups in northern Laos – the Hmong, Khmu, Phounoy, Tai Dam, Tai Lao, and Tai Lue – were given cameras and training in digital media so that they could document their experiences for themselves. Those records have now been curated into this very special display. 10

LIVE PAINTING Saturdays, 9am-5pm, Maison de la Culture, Come along to Maison de la Culture on Saturdays to watch talented artist Mick Saylom at work on a brand new painting. The quality of Mick’s pieces has earned him a following among overseas collectors. For the live painting, come on Saturdays between 9am-5pm, but the gallery is open every day except Sunday within the same hours. Mick can be contacted on 020 5562 2173.

WHAT'S ON

SOCIAL.

I-BEAM LADIES’ NIGHT, WEDNESDAYS Wednesdays, from 7pm, I-Beam, Vientiane I-Beam bar and restaurant’s popular Ladies Night continues every Wednesday with female customers enjoying 50% off all glasses of wine from 7pm onwards. The bar is well-stocked with European and South African vintages, so there’s sure to be something for all tastes, and the delectable tapas menu makes for an excellent accompaniment. For more details visit www.facebook.com/ibeamvientiane.

COLOURFUL COCKTAILS Daily, 6pm-8pm, Couleur d’Asie, Vientiane Head to the Coluleur d’Asie concept store in the heart of downtown, opposite Wat Mixay, for discount drinks every single night of the week. Get 20% off all aperitifs and slashed prices on a range of new cocktails. Visit the Facebook page or call 020 2815 7690 for more information.

THEATRE.

CHANMALY LADIES’ NIGHT, THURSDAYS Thursdays, 5pm onwards, Chanmaly Café, Vientiane U p m a r k e t F re n c h c a f é Chanmaly will now give its female customers 50% off all wines and cocktails from 5pm each Thursday night. There are more reasons than ever to visit the café right now – fresh crops of imported cheeses and hams from Spain and Italy have recently arrived! The café is also serving a delicious new crispy tofu burger for vegetarians.

FILM.

KHAO NIEW ON TOUR October 10-15, Luang Prabang, venues TBA Vientiane-based theatre company Khao Niew's most recent play ‘Metamorfoz’ will tour Luang Prabang as part of the Lao Culture Challenge Fund sponsored by the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation. The play tells the story of a family living by and off the river and how this life is changing. It is co-produced by French theatre company Theatr Piba. ‘Metamorfoz’ is performed in Lao, but subtitled in English. Venues are still to be announced. For more information visit www.facebook.com/pages/ Khao-Niew-Lao/436586063040845, or email khaoniewlao@gmail.com or kiritin.n@gmail.com (English).

MUSIC.

FRENCH ON FILM Saturdays, 2pm and 6pm, Institute Français, Vientiane Institut Français du Laos opens its cinema to the public for free each Saturday to promote the exciting, moving and inspiring world of French film. Two films are shown at each session from 2pm and 6pm. Family friendly films on offer. Free entry. For the full programme visit www. if-laos.org.

PAUL CARTER LIVE Wednesdays, 8.30pm, La Maison Restaurant, Vientiane La Maison is hosting local jazz musician Paul Carter, who has stepped up from monthly to weekly live music performances at the fine French restaurant. Paul will perform everything from blues, jazz, pop, 80s and 90s tunes in the leafy outdoor courtyard. Happy hour runs from 5.30pm-7.30pm, and La Maison is now also broadcasting live sport including NBA, rugby, tennis, and football from 5.30pm-10pm.

WHAT'S NEW

MODERN CUISINE, LOCAL INGREDIENTS AT

Chai Deu

Khop

Khop Chai Deu customers were treated to a culinary spectacle on October 30, with South African chef Jono taking the stage to show how modern dishes could be created with local Lao ingredients. Jono has travelled the world taking in influences from a range of global cuisines. He came to Laos hoping to promote the country’s diverse range of fresh farm produce. Guests were taken through a light three-course meal with a creamy avocado based shrimp cocktail to start off the night, followed by a tasting plate of moreish buffalo wings, fetta and sundried tomato parcels and cornf fritters, with a velvety passionfruit panna cotta to round it all off.

ທະນາຄານ ຊີໄອເອັມບີ ໄທ ເປີດສາຂາຂຶ້ນທີ່ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນຢ່າງເປັນ ທາງການ ທະນາຄານ ຊີໄອເອັມບີ ໄທ, ໄດ້ເປີດສາຂາຂຶ້ນຢູູ່ນະ ຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນຢ່າງເປັນທາງການແລ້ວ ໃນວັນທີ 29 ສິງຫາ 2014 ທີ່ຜ ່ານມານີ້ໂດຍມີ ທ່ານ ສອນໄຊ ສິດພະໄຊ,ຮອງຜູ້ວ່າການທະນາຄານແຫ່ງ ສປປ. ລາວ ໃຫ້ກຽດເປັນປະທານໃນພິທີເປີດ ຮ່ວມກັບທ່ານ ດາໂຕະ ຊາຣານິ ບິນ ອິບບຣາຫິມ,ກຳມະການ ທະນາຄານ ຊີໄອເອັມບີ ໄທ ຈຳກັດ (ມະຫາຊົນ). ທະນາຄານ ຊີໄອເອັມບີ ໄທ ເປັນທະນາຄານ ທຸລະກິດຂອງໄທແຫ່ງທີ 7 ທີ່ເຂົ້າມາຈົດທະບຽນໃນ ລາວແລະ ເປັນທະນາຄານທຸລະກິດລ ຳດັບທີ 35 ທີ່ ເປີດຂ ຶ້ນໃ ນລາວ. ທ່ານ ສຸພັກ ສິວະຣັກ, ກໍາມະການຜູ້ອໍານວຍການໃຫຍ່ ແລະ ປະທານເຈົ້າໜ້າທີ່ບໍລິຫານ ທະນາຄານ ຊີໄອ ເອັມບີ ໄທ ໄດ້ກ່າວວ່າ: ສາຂາແຫ່ງນີ້ ເປັນສາຂາ

ພິທີສຸ່ມເລືອກຜູ້ໂຊກດີ ໄປທ່ອງທ່ຽວກັບຊຳຊຸງທົວ ທີ່ສິງກະໂປ 2014 ໃນວັນທີ 1 ກັນຍາ 2014 ທີ່ຜ່ານມານີ້, ບໍລິສັດ ໄທ ຊໍາຊຸງ ອີເລັກໂທນິກ ປະຈໍາ ສປປ ລາວ ໄດ້ມີການຈັດງານ ການຈັບສະຫຼາກຫາຜູ້ໂຊກດີ 5 ລາງວັນເພື່ອໄປທ່ອງ ທ່ຽວທົວກັບຊຳຊຸງທີ່ສິງກະໂປ ຈັດຂຶ້ນທີ່ສູນ ຊຳຊຸງ LTH ຖະໜົນດົງປ່າລານ, ບ້ານຝາຍ, ເມືອງສີສັດຕະນາກ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ. ໂຄງການນີ້ ເປັນການຕອບແທນ ໃຫ້ແກ່ລູກຄ້າຂອງຊຳຊຸງ ເພື່ອໄປຊົມຄອນເສີດນັກຮ້ອງ ຊື່ດັງຈາກເກົາຫຼີເຊັ່ນ: Big bang, 2NE1 ແລະ PSY ທີ່ປະເທດສິງກະໂປ ຈໍານວນ 5 ລາງວັນ, ລາງວັນລະ 2 ຄົນ ເຊິ່ງແຕ່ລະລາງວັນ ແມ່ນລວມຄ່າປີ້ຍົນ ໄປກັບວຽງຈັນ-ສິງກະໂປ ແລະ ທີ່ພັກ 3 ມື້ 2 ຄືນ ໃນລະຫວ່າງວັນທີ 12-14 ກັນຍາ 2014 ນີ້. ເງື່ອນໄຂ 14

ໃນການລຸ້ນລາງວັນ ແມ່ນຜ່ານການຊື້ຜະລິດຕະພັນ ຂອງຊຳຊຸງເຊັ່ນ: Samsung Galaxy S5 ຫຼື Galaxy Tab S ກໍ່ຈະໄດ້ຮັບຄູປອງ 1 ໃບ ເພື່ອລຸ້ນຂອງລາງວັນ ດັ່ງກ່າວ ໂດຍເລີ່ມຕັ້ງແຕ່ວັນທີ 1 ຫາ 31 ສິງຫາ 2014 ເປັນຕົ້ນມາ. ເປັນກຽດຈັບລາງວັນມີ ທ່ານ ປະພາດ ຣັດຕະນະພາດ, ຜູ້ຈັດການ ບໍລິສັດຜູ້ຕ່າງໜ້າ ໄທ ຊໍາຊຸງ ອີເລັກໂທນິກ ຈໍາກັດ ປະຈຳປະເທດລາວ; ທ່ານ ເຈັກ ໄຊຊະນະ, ເຈົ້າຂອງຮ້ານ LTH; ທ່ານ ຄຳສຸກ ໂກມຸດ ທະພົງ, ຫົວໜ້າຝ່າຍຜະລິດຕະພັນມືຖື ແລະ ໄອທີ; ທ່ານ ສຸຣັກ ຄໍາເພັດ, ຜູ້ຈັດການຮ້ານ LTH ແລະ ຕົວແທນ ຈາກສື່ມວນຊົນທີ່ເຂົ້າຮ່ວມ ກໍ່ໄດ້ເປັນສັກຂີພະຍານ ໃນ ການຈັບລາງວັນຜູ້ໂຊກດີໃນຄັ້ງນີ້.

ທະນາຄານຕ່າງປະເທດແຫ່ງທໍາອິດຂອງທະນາຄານ ຊີໄອເອັມບີ ໄທ, ແລະ ເປັນເຄືອຂ່າຍອັນດັບທີ 9 ໃນກຸ່ມ 10 ປະເທດອາຊຽນ ຂອງກຸ່ມຊີໄອເອັມບີ. ທະນາຄານຊີໄອເອັມບີ ໄທ ພ້ອມໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານທາງດ້ານ ການເງິນທີ່ຄົບວົງຈອນ ໃຫ້ແກ່ລູກຄ້າທັງລາຍໃຫຍ່, ວິສາຫະກິດຂະໜາດກາງ ແລະ ລາຍຍ່ອຍ ໂດຍເນັ້ນ ເຈາະກຸ່ມທຸລະກິດໃນພື້ນທີ່ ລວມທັງເອື້ອອໍານວຍ ຕໍ່ການຄ້າຕ່າງປະເທດ. ໃນປີທຳອິດນີ້, ທະນາຄານ ຊີໄອເອັມບີ ໄທ ໄດ້ຕັ້ງເປົ້າໝາຍໃນການປ່ອຍສິນເຊື່ອ 300 ລ້ານບາດ, ແລະ ຕັ້ງເປົ້າໝາຍໃນການລະດົມ ເງິນຝາກໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ແລະ ເຂົ້າມາປ່ອຍກູ້ໃນໄລ ຍະຍາວ. ທະນາຄານ ຊີໄອເອັມບີ ໄທ ສາຂານະຄອນ ຫຼ ວ ງ ວ ຽ ງ ຈັ ນ ພ້ ອ ມ ໃ ຫ້ ບໍ ລິ ກ າ ນ ທ່ າ ນ ແ ລ້ ວ ມື້ ນີ້ ທີ່ ຖະໜົນລ້ານຊ້າງ ໃກ້ກັບປະຕູໄຊ.

Acqua ITALIAN FINE DINING

Chef Gerardo, creator of the downtown fine Italian restaurant Ai Capone, opened a brand new venue this month. Acqua is a sleek, modern wine bar serving artistic Italian cuisine – and there are 1,000 Italian and international wines stuffed in the cellar. The stunning interior design features handcrafted Murano chandeliers and Venetian stucco. The unique ‘open kitchen’ concept allows diners to watch Chef Gerardo and his award-winning culinary team at work while they wait for their meals. There are exclusive VIP dining rooms on the first and second floors for private parties – make a reservation to book these spaces, or just drop by casually!

WHAT'S NEW

Block-

HOLLYWOOD COMING TO VIENTIANE

Young Designers Rural LAOS IN BLACK

Hollywood blockbusters and a special documentary will be screened in the parking lot of the National Culture Hall from October 1-5 for American Film Week. The Luang Prabang Film Festival and the US Embassy in Vientiane agreed to jointly hold the event again following its popularity last year. Along with the free screenings, there will be lectures and discussions led by film experts throughout the week. Coca-Cola is sponsoring the event, with 100% of their donations, as well as those from other sponsors, going straight into the Lao Filmmakers Fund. The publicly generated fund allows Lao filmmakers to apply for grants to help realise their film projects. A reception will be held on the evening of October 6 to raise more money for the fund. Follow the Luang Prabang Film Festival's Facebook page for schedules and updates.

Aspiring young fashion designers around Laos are invited to compete in Fashion Design Contest 2014 for a chance at winning a prestigious six-month scholarship at the ESMOD School of Fashion in Paris. The competition was organised following the great success of Lao Fashion Week 2014, which took place in Vientiane from March 5-7 earlier this year. All young Laotians – both men and women – are invited to submit an entry in keeping with the design theme ‘Modern Design with Lao Essence’. Anyone interested can get entry details by emailing info@laofashionweek.com. The submission deadline is October 30, and winners will be announced one month later on November 30.

busters

FIGHT FOR PARIS SCHOLARSHIP

AND WHITE

Until September 28, downtown Vientiane café Benoni is displaying a powerful exhibition of black-and-white photographs from rural parts of Laos taken by Netherlands-born photographer Albert Leeflang, who has spent the last eight years exploring the country by motorcycle. He has travelled more than 25,000km, mostly offroad. This method of travel allowed him to reach more remote places that are often insulated from the fast-paced economic and touristic development taking place elsewhere. “LIVE LAOS” is a collection of 24 photographs from these road trips, shot with black and white film. The simple photographs are designed to tell a story, and the absence of colour intensifies the grittiness of the work.

Villa Maly ROLLS OUT RED CARPET FOR LA PROCESSION

Silver Screen POPS UP IN LUANG PRABANG

Makphet OPENS IN NEW LOCATION

Popular Lao restaurant Makphet, which trains disadvantaged youth in cooking and hospitality skills, has reopened in a brand new location with even more space to accommodate its growing clientele. Friends International, the NGO that oversees the restaurant, announced that Makphet would now be located at 78 Ban Inpeng, Vat Chanh Tha. The trading hours have also been extended – the restaurant will now be open seven days a week.

The Luang Prabang Film Festival will run from 6-10 December and, like always, will showcase best recent films from across Southeast Asia. The most exciting place to check out films during the event is the festival’s Night Venue at the Handicraft Market, right in the centre of town. There, 800 chairs are set up each year, though the festival regularly welcomes audiences of over a thousand visitors stopping by to watch movies under the stars. In addition to feature film screenings (all subtitled in English), there will be short films, Q&As with filmmakers, panel discussions with experts from around the region and beyond, and several exhibitions on display. And, of course, for you selfie-lovers out there, there are always many opportunities to take pictures with the celebrities and directors in attendance. If you didn’t think it could get any better, all of the festival’s screenings and activities are totally free and open to the public. For more information, visit the festival’s website at www. lpfilmfest.org, or join 30,000 other followers on their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/lpfilmfest.

On a misty morning in mid-October, Luang Prabang’s daily procession of barefoot, saffron-clad monks will cross paths with a troupe of trainersporting, neon-clad runners who will hit the scenic streets of the UNESCO Heritage Town to raise money for a new children’s hospital. The Luang Prabang HalfMarathon ‘La Procession’ will take place on October 12, 2014. This year, runners will be lacing up their sneakers to support the construction of the Lao Friends Hospital for Children, which aims to provide high-quality health care for the children of Laos. One of the race’s sponsoring hotels, Villa Maly, is welcoming runners in town for the half-marathon with a special deal over the nights of October 11 and 12, 2014. A 33-room boutique hotel nestled in a former royal residence just outside the heritage town, Villa Maly’s Runners’ Package features two nights’ stay in a superior room with breakfast, preand post-race massages, round-trip airport pickups and transport to and from the race’s starting line. Rates for the package start at US$300 per room for single occupancy and US$438 for double sharing. For enquires about Villa Maly’s Runners’ Package, visit www.villa-maly.com or email info@villa-maly. com. Full details about the race and registration are available at www.luangprabanghalfmarathon.com.

A Stylish Budget Accommodation Option in Luang Prabang

The Ultimate Relaxation Hideaway FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT:

125 Unit 7, Bane Vixoun, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: +856 (0) 71 212 642, +856 (0) 71 252 933 www.tropicaloasispark.com

Burasari HERITAGE WELCOMES

Traditional SAUNA AND MASSAGE

On your mark, get set, GO! If you're participating in this year's Luang Prabang Half Marathon on October 12, stay with Burasari Heritage and they’ll pamper you and your entourage of supporters. Not only are they a short 10-minute walk to the start, Burasari Heritage is on the race course. The Half-Marathon package price includes: complimentary Airport Transfer; free WiFi, available throughout the hotel; complimentary international a la carte buffet breakfast daily; on race day, a special ‘Runner's Breakfast’ served at 4.30am, with low carbohydrates, low fat, high vitamin and moderate protein; special High Carb Pre-Race Dinner at The Terrace Restaurant for US$18 per person; complimentary Minibar, replenished once daily; complimentary Bicycle Rental, throughout your stay; 15% off Spa by Burasari; 15% off food at The Terrace Restaurant (excluding the special pre-race dinner); complimentary Morning Alms Giving Ceremony food basket (optional).

Lao Red Cross has lovingly restored its traditional sauna and massage centre, set in a colonial-era house in Ban Visoun, Luang Prabang. Treat yourself to authentic natural therapies and relax knowing that all profits support the work of Lao Red Cross. The herbal sauna, consisting of wooden steam rooms infused with lemongrass, kaffir lime, galangal and other medicinal plants, makes a memorable experience. Inhale the steam, sip on herbal tea and sweat it out with locals. Oil body massage and foot massage work on acupressure points to re-establish the energy flow throughout the body, improve circulation and promote relaxation. Combine the sauna with a massage for the ultimate way to refresh and revive your body, the traditional Lao way. Prices start from 10,000 kip for a herbal sauna/steam bath, an oil massage or foot massage is 50,000 kip per hour, aromatherapy oil massages are 80,000 kip per hour. The centre is open daily, with massages running between 1pm-9pm, and the sauna open from 4pm-8pm. For more information contact the Lao Red Cross traditional sauna and massage centre on (856-71) 252 856.

HALF-MARATHON

WITH LAO RED CROSS

Welcome to Sabaidee Club! This is a space for our readers to take part in a monthly competition with the chance to win fantastic prizes. This month we want to hear about the Lao dishes you enjoy cooking. Do you make a fantastic homemade laap or khao piak? Tell us how you make it and send us a couple of photos in an email to editor@sabaidee-magazine.com, or post it on our Facebook page before October 9, 2014. The winner will receive

two free nights for two people at the luxurious Inthira Hotel Champasak, including breakfast.

“ສະບາຍດີ ຄລັບ”

ຍິນດີຕ້ອນຮັບສູ່ ສະບາຍດີ ຄລັບ! ພື້ນທີ່ບ່ອນນີ້ແມ່ນມີໄວ້ສຳ�ລັບທ່ານຜູ້ອ່ານ ເພື່ອເຂົ້າຮ່ວມການແຂ່ງຂັນປະຈຳ�ເດືອນ ຂອງພວກເຮົາ ແລະ ລຸ້ນຮັບຂອງລາງວັນພິເສດຢ່າງຫຼວງຫຼາຍ. ສຳ�ລັບເດືອນນີ້ ພວກເຮົາຢາກຮູ້ກ່ຽວກັບ ບັນດາອາຫານລາວ ທີ່ທ່ານມັກແຕ່ງກິນຢູ່ບ້ານ. ທ່ານເຮັດລາບແຊບໆ ຫຼື ເຂົ້າປຽກແຊບໆບໍ່? ທ່ານສາມາດສົ່ງຮູບພາບ ແລະ ອະທິບາຍວ່າທ່ານແຕ່ງກິນແນວໃດ ມາໄດ້ທາງອີເມລທີ່ editor@sabaidee-magazine.com ຫຼື ໂພສລົງໜ້າເຟສບຸກຂອງພວກເຮົາ ກ່ອນວັນທີ 9 ຕຸລາ 2014.

ຜູ້ໂຊກດີ ຈະໄດ້ຮັບທີ່ພັກຟຣີ

2 ຄືນ ສຳ�ລັບ 2 ທ່ານ ທີ່ໂຮງແຮມ ອິນທິຣາ ຈຳ�ປາສັກ ອັນຫຼູຫຼາ, ແລະ ລວມອາຫານເຊົ້ານຳ�. ສົນໃຈເປັນສະມາຊິກ ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດີ

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Riverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam Song

12 Khouvieng Rd, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR Phone: +856 21 26 4097 Fax: +856 21 26 3064 Email : info@greenparkvientiane.com www.greenparkvientiane.com

Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng Vientiane Province, Lao PDR Phone: +856 (0)23 511 726-8 Fax: +856 (0)23 511 729 Email: info@riversidevangvieng.com www.riversidevangvieng.com

Green Park Boutique Hotel - Elegance and Timeless Comfort in the Heart of Vientiane

MY CITY

What better way to get to know a city than through those who live, work, and play in it? Sabaidee Magazine chats to a resident to get an insider’s guide to their locale. VORLAWOUTH LINTHAVONG WORKS FOR THE XAYSOMBOUN PROVINCIAL DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION, CULTURE AND TOURISM AND IS SPECIFICALLY RESPONSIBLE FOR TOURISM. THE PROVINCE ONLY OPENED ITS DOORS TO VISITORS AT THE END OF LAST YEAR, SO THE DEPARTMENT WILL HAVE TO WORK HARD TO ATTRACT TOURISTS TO THIS LITTLE-KNOWN POCKET OF CENTRAL LAOS. HERE, MR VORLAWOUTH SHEDS SOME LIGHT ON THE LITTLEKNOWN PROVINCE’S SIGHTS AND SOUNDS.

WHEN DID YOU MAKE XAYSOMBOUN YOUR HOME?

I’ve been living here since I was assigned to the province six months ago. TAKE US THROUGH A TYPICAL WORKING DAY IN XAYSOMBOUN:

I spend most of my day in my office, which is about a 600-metre walk from my house. I often stop for coffee on the way. Then, during lunch break, I go to the local restaurants near Anouvong market. In the evenings I play badminton, football and sometimes jog around the city. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING ABOUT LIVING IN XAYSOMBOUN?

I was really happy when I first came here because the weather in Xaysomboun is really nice. I love the fresh air and cool breeze during summer, but it gets really cold during winter – some years it gets down below zero degrees. The scenery around Anouvong city is also beautiful, especially the spectacular view of Phou Bia – the tallest mountain in Laos.

X aysomboun DESCRIBE YOUR IDEAL WEEKEND IN XAYSOMBOUN:

If I don’t use the weekend to visit my home in Vientiane capital, I like to go to the Nam Ngum 2 river basin as it’s not too far from the city. You can take boat rides around the river eating freshly caught fish and enjoying the spectacular view. Sometimes I take the time to check out places I have heard of but never had a chance to see for myself, like Vang Pao’s house, Sun Phou Mork, Sim Lorng Jaeng, Tad Poong Waterfall, Tad Pha Saeb Waterfall in Lorng Sard district and Chao Anouvong’s Cave. I would also like to take a boat ride down the Nam Ngiep River in Tha Thom district. BEST PLACE TO GRAB A COFFEE:

I like to stop for coffee on my way to the office. There are several shops on that road where you can order Vietnamese drip coffee as well as the regular Lao variety. YOUR FAVOURITE LOCAL EATERY:

My favorite is Ms Tock’s restaurant near Anouvong market because of the wide variety

of dishes. I personally like to order fish, as the fish has been caught in Xaysomboun rivers by local fishermen and sold directly to the shop. I also like to order chicken soup with Hmong herbs, or organic vegetable soup grown by local farmers. I like buying organic food because it helps farming families earn a bit more money. WHAT, IN YOUR OPINION, IS XAYSOMBOUN’S BEST KEPT SECRET?

Well… it’s not really a secret. It’s something I see every day but have not yet had a chance to climb. Phou Bia, the tallest mountain in Laos. At the peak, the average temperature is minus five degrees. I’ve heard there is a big pond up there with lots of fresh water in the rainy season. Phou Bia is also very rich in biodiversity, with lots of precious wildlife and trees. At the top there’s a special kind of plant, spreading around the surface of the peak. It’s very soft and feels fluffy under your feet. We are currently building a road that will lead straight to the top of the mountain so we are ready for tourists. We will need to be – next year is “Xaysomboun Tourism Year”.

ເມືອງໄຊສົມບູນຂອງຂ້ອຍ ອາຊີບຂອງທ່ານແມ່ນຫຍັງ?

ມື້ພັກທ້າຍອາທິດຢູ່ໄຊສົມບູນ ທ່ານມັກໄປທ່ຽວໃສ?

ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເຮັດວຽກຢູ່ພະແນກຖະແຫຼງຂ່າວ, ວັດທະນະທຳ� ແລະ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ແຂວງໄຊສົມບູນ ຮັບຜິດຊອບວຽກງານການທ່ອງທ່ຽວ.

ວັນ ເສົ າ -ວັນ ອາທິ ດ ຖ້າ ບໍ່ໄ ດ້ກັບ ບ້າ ນທີ່ນ ະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ແມ່ນມັກໄປກິນປາຢູ່ ອ່າງນ້ຳ�ງື່ມ 2 ເພາະຢູ່ທີ່ນັ້ນບໍ່ໄກຈາກເທດສະບານ ມີ ເ ຮື ອ ແພບໍ ລິ ກ ານໃຫ້ທ່າ ນ ຂີ່ຊົມ ທິ ວ ທັດ ທຳ�ມະຊາດແຄມຝັ່ງ ທີ່ ງົດ ງາມຫຼາຍ ພ້ອ ມທັງ ກິ ນ ປາ ທີ່ປ ະຊາຊົນ ຫາໄດ້ຢູ່ອ່າ ງເກັ ບ ນ້ຳ� ແຫ່ງນີ້ ຫຼື ບາງເທື່ອກໍ່ໄປທ່ຽວຊົມແຫຼ່ງທ່ອງທ່ຽວທຳ�ມະຊາດ ແລະ ແຫຼ່ງທ່ອງທ່ຽວປະຫວັດສາດ ທີ່ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ແລະ ຄົນອື່ນໆເຄີຍໄດ້ຟັງ ແຕ່ບໍ່ເ ຄີ ຍ ໄດ້ໄ ປເຫັ ນ ຕົວ ຈິ ງ ເຊັ່ນ ເຮື ອ ນວັງ ປາວ, ສັນ ພູ ໝ ອກ, ສິມລ່ອງແຈ້ງ, ລ່ອງເຮືອນ້ຳ�ງຽບ ເມືອງທ່າໂທມ, ນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດປູ່ງ, ນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດຜາແຊບ ເມືອງລ້ອງຊານ, ຊົມຖ້ຳ�ເຈົ້າອານຸວົງ ເປັນຕົ້ນ.

ທ່ານຍ້າຍມາຢູ່ໄຊສົມບູນແຕ່ຕອນໃດ? ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ຍ້າຍມາເຮັດວຽກຢູ່ນີ້ໄດ້ຫົກເດືອນແລ້ວ.

ແຕ່ລະມື້ຢູ່ໄຊສົມບູນທ່ານເຮັດຫຍັງແດ່?

ໄລຍະທີ່ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າມາຢູ່ນີ້ ກິດຈະກຳ�ປະຈຳ�ວັນສ່ວນໃຫຍ່ ແມ່ນໄປ ເຮັດວຽກຢູ່ທີ່ຫ້ອງການ ທີ່ຫ່າງຈາກຫໍພັກປະມານ 600 ແມັດ ໃນ ລະຫວ່າງທາງກໍ່ມັກໄປກິນກາເຟຢູ່ຮ້ານແຄມທາງ ທີ່ມີຫຼາຍຮ້ານ ໃຫ້ບໍລິການ ຫຼື ຖ້າມັກກາເຟຢອດຂອງຫວຽດນາມກໍ່ສາມາດສັ່ງ ກິນໄດ້ ພໍເລີກການຕອນບ່າຍ ກໍ່ມັກໄປກິນເຂົ້າ ທີ່ຮ້ານອາຫານຢູ່ ແຖວຕະຫຼາດເທດສະບານເມືອງອານຸວົງ ພໍກິນເຂົ້າແລ້ວກໍ່ກັບ ໄປເຮັດວຽກຕໍ່ ຈົນເຖິງຕອນແລງເລີກວຽກກັບບ້ານ ກໍ່ໄປຫຼິ້ນກິ ລາເຊັ່ນ ຕີດອກປີກໄກ່, ເຕະບານ ຫຼື ບາງເທື່ອກໍ່ຍ່າງອ້ອມແຖວ ເທດສະບານແຂວງ.

ຮ້ານກາເຟທີ່ທ່ານມັກ: ຂ້າ ພະເຈົ້າ ມັກ ໄປກິ ນ ກາເຟຢູ່ຮ້າ ນແຄມທາງລະຫວ່າ ງທາງ ຈາກຫໍ ພັກ ໄປຫ້ອ ງການ ທີ່ມີ ຫຼ າຍຮ້າ ນໃຫ້ບໍ ລິ ກ ານທ່າ ນ ຫຼື ຖ້າ ມັກ ກາເຟຢອດຂອງຫວຽດນາມ ກໍ່ສ າມາດສັ່ງ ກິ ນ ໄດ້ຂ້ອ ຍຢາກ ພັກຜ່ອນ ແລະ ໄປນວດຢູ່ສະປາ. ຂ້ອຍມັກຮ້ານ ລິລີ້ ສະກິນແຄ ເປັນຮ້ານປະຈຳ�ຂອງຂ້ອຍເລີຍ.

ແມ່ນຫຍັງແມ່ນສິ່ງທີ່ທ່ານມັກກວ່າໝູ່ ຢູ່ໃນໄຊສົມບູນນີ້?

ຮ້ານອາຫານທີ່ທ່ານມັກໄປກນ ິ :

ຕອນມາເທື່ອ ທຳ�ອິ ດ ກໍ່ຮູ້ສຶ ກ ດີ ໃ ຈຫຼາຍທີ່ໄ ດ້ມ າເພາະອາກາດຢູ່ ແຂວງໄຊສົມບູນດີຫຼາຍ ອາກາດສົດຊື່ນ ລົມເຢັນສະບາຍ ໃນລະ ດູຮ້ອນ ແຕ່ໄລຍະລະດູໜາວແມ່ນໜາວຫຼາຍ ບາງປີອຸນຫະພູມ ເຖິງລົບອົງສາ ອ້ອມຮອບຕົວເມືອງອະນຸວົງ ແມ່ນມີທິວທັດທີ່ງົດ ງາມຫຼາຍ ໂດຍສະເພາະ ທິວທັດພູເບ້ຍ ເຊິ່ງເປັນພູທີ່ສູງທີ່ສຸດໃນ ປະເທດລາວ.

ຮ້ານທີ່ມັກໄປແມ່ນຮ້ານນາງຕ໋ອກ ຢູ່ແຖວຕະຫຼາດເທດສະບານເມືອງ ອານຸວົງ ເພາະຮ້ານນີ້ຈະມີອາຫານຫຼາຍຢ່າງ ທີ່ເຮົາສາມາດສັ່ງຮັບປະ ທານໄດ້ ສ່ວນຂ້າພະເຈົ້າແມ່ນສັ່ງອາຫານປະເພດປາ ທີ່ປະຊາຊົນຫາ ມາຂາຍ ຈາກແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຕ່າງໆຢູ່ແຊວງໄຊສົມບນ ູ ຕົ້ມໄກ່ລາດ ຫຼື ຕົ້ມໄກ່ ຕອນໃສ່ຢາລາວມົ້ງ ແກງຜັກປອດສານພດ ິ ທີ່ປະຊາຊົນປກ ູ ເອງ ແລ້ວ

ທ່ າ ນ ວໍ ລ ະວຸ ດ ລິ ນ ທະວົ ງ - ຮອງຫົ ວ ຫນ້ າ ພະແນກ ພະແນກຖະແຫລງຂ່ າ ວ, ວັ ດ ທ ະ ນ ະ ທ ຳ ແ ລ ະ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວ - ແຂວງ ໄຊສົມບູນ

ເອົາມາຂາຍເປັນລາຍຮັບຂອງຄອບຄົວ, ເວົ້າລວມແມ່ນອາຫານທີ່ປອດ ສານເຄມແ ີ ມ່ນມັກຫຼາຍ.

ໂດຍສ່ວນຕົວຂອງທ່ານເອງ, ແມ່ນຫຍັງແມ່ນສ ິ່ງພເິ ສດທີ່ເປັນ ຄວາມລັບຂອງໄຊສົມບນ ູ ? ບໍ່ແມ່ນຄວາມລັບ ແຕ່ເປັນບ່ອນໜຶ່ງທີ່ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເຫັນທຸກມື້ ແຕ່ບໍ່ ເຄີຍໄປຮອດ ນັ້ນກໍ່ຄື ຈອມພູເບ້ຍ ທີ່ມີອາກາດໜາວເຢັນ ສະເລັ່ຍ ປະມານລົບ 5 ອົງສາ ເຊິ່ງເປັນພູທີ່ສູງທີ່ສຸດໃນປະເທດລາວ ຂ້າພະ ເຈົ້າໄດ້ຍິນມາວ່າເທິງຈອມພູເບ້ຍ ມີໜອງໃຫຍ່ 1 ໜອງ ເຊິ່ງໃນລະ ດູຝົນແມ່ນມີນ້ຳ�ເກືອບເຕັມໜອງ ມີສັດນ້ຳ�ຫຼາຍຊະນິດມາອາໄສຢູ່ ແລະ ຢູ່ບໍລິເວນພູເບ້ຍກໍ່ມີສັດສາວາສິ່ງນາໆຊະນິດອາໄສຢູ່ຢ່າງ ຫຼວງຫຼາຍ ມີຕົ້ນໄມ້ທີ່ມີຄ່າຫຼາຍຊະນິດ ຢູ່ເທິງຈອມພູເບ້ຍມີພືດຊະ ນດ ິ ໜຶ່ງປົກຫຸ້ມທົ່ວພື້ນດນ ິ ຄ້າຍຄກ ື ອງເຟືອງ ມີຄວາມນຸ້ມນວນຫຼາຍ ເມື່ອເຮົາຍ່າງໄປຍ່າງມາຢູ່ເທິງພູເບ້ຍ ມັນຈະຍຸບໄປຍຸບມາແລ້ວຈຶ່ງ ຮອດພື້ນດນ ິ ຄ້າຍຄເື ວລາເຮົາຢຽບຕເໍ ຟືອງລົ້ມ ປັດຈຸບັນ ທາງແຂວງ ກໍ່ໄ ດ້ສ້າ ງເສັ້ນ ທາງທະລຸ ໄ ປເຖິ ງ ຈອມພູ ເ ບ້ຍ ເພື່ອ ພັດ ທະນາໃຫ້ ເປັນແຫຼ່ງທ່ອງທ່ຽວທຳ�ມະຊາດ ຕ້ອນຮັບນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວໃນວັນເປີດ ປິທ່ອງທ່ຽວແຂວງໄຊສົມບູນ 2015 ທີ່ຈະມາເຖິງນີ້.

SPOTLIGHT ON

words Hannah McDonald-Moniz photos Rachel Arbing

E AT I N G C L E A N IN THE C A P I T A L VIENTIANE’S BEST ORGANIC PRODUCE

LOOKING TO BE A MORE CONSCIOUS CONSUMER IN VIENTIANE? SABAIDEE MAGAZINE GUIDES YOU THROUGH SOME OF THE ORGANIC SHOPS AND PRODUCTS AROUND TOWN THAT CAN HELP YOU MAKE YOUR DIET MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY AND SOCIALLY FRIENDLY, AS WELL AS HEALTHY AND DELICIOUS! FOR SOME GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT SUPPORTING ORGANIC PRODUCERS IN LAOS VISIT WWW.LAOSORGANIC.COM. AGROASIE AgroAsie was born in 2010 as a social enterprise looking to help subsistence farmers in disadvantaged Sangthong district make a living. The organisation was founded on the principles of sustainability and fair trade, and focuses on growing organic local produce and supporting the livelihoods of local farmers. AgroAsie’s products include brown and white rice, beans, herbs, tea and a wide range of fruits and veggies, which can be purchased from the downtown storefront. The shop also sells a variety of other locally made organic products. The company also offers a weekly delivery service for those who want a basket of the week’s fresh organic food delivered to their home. Call or stop in at the store to place an order for delivery. The baskets run at 70,000, 80,000, or 100,000 kip depending on size, which is inclusive of delivery fees. A: Rue Chao Anou (next to Common Grounds café) W: www.agroasie.com Open: Monday-Friday 9am-7pm

I Products on display at the That Luang organic market. I

I At the That Luang organic market. I

I Spirulina dietary supplements on sale at the market. I 24

XAO BAN Xao Ban, perhaps best known for the delicious fruit yogurts found in refrigerators around town, began as a women’s cooperative. The small organisation now supports local farmers to make a range of healthy, organic and delicious foods. In addition to the popular yogurts, Xao Ban products include fruit drinks, cheese, jams, dips, honey, salads and more, which can be purchased from a many local minimarts, groceries and M-Point marts as well as from the new Xao Ban shop. T: 21 452 900; 20 240 3415 A: Saphonthong Tai village (near VIS) W: www.xaoban.com Open: Daily 10am-7pm

I Xao Ban's signature creamy yogurt on the shelf at Phimphone minimart. I

VIENTIANE ORGANIC MARKET If you’re looking to buy fresh, in-season produce directly from the farmers, look no further than the popular Vientiane Organic Market. On Wednesday and Saturday mornings local organiccertified producers can be found selling their goods on the concrete esplanade in front of That Luang Stupa, from 6am until noon. Arrive early for a better selection, as vendors often sell out before the market is finished! This is a great place to shop for the week while also meeting the local producers and finding out more about how their products are grown and how they make a living. An organic market also runs on Monday afternoons from 1pm to 6pm in Chao Fa Ngum park.

I A local Lao woman sells organic vegetables at That Luang. I

A: Wednesday & Saturday in front of That Luang, Monday at Chao Fa Ngum Park W: www.facebook.com/vientiane.organic.market Open: Wednesday & Saturday 6am-noon, Monday 1pm-6pm (different location)

I Organic liquor on the shelf at AgroAsie. I

ON THE SHELF To complete your organic shopping trip, many shops and minimarts around town stock a variety of other locally made organic products to add to your shopping list. The Lao Farmer’s Products brand is created by an organic fair trade cooperative responsible for many different products, including jams, rice and honey, among others. The wellknown Lao Mountain Coffee brand works directly with Lao farmers to create several blends of locallygrown organic roasts. Newcomer Spiruline du Laos produces an organically farmed algae – a proteinpacked “superfood” with many dietary uses. Look out for these organic brands at Simeuang, Phimphone, M-Point, and many of the other minimarts around Vientiane.

Spiruline du Laos: www.facebook.com/sdlaos Lao Farmer’s Products: www.laofarmersproducts.com/ Lao Mountain Coffee: A: (wholesale and large purchases) Nongbone Road Monday-Friday 8:30-11:30am, 1:30-3:30pm W: www.laomountain.com T: 021 412 529 25

I Stalls selling organic fruits and vegetables fill the That Luang esplanade each Saturday and Wednesday morning. I

ກິນອາຫານຢ່າງສະອາດ ໃນນະຄອນຫຼວງ

I Organic hair-care products. I

ຜະລິດຕະພັນປອດສານພິດ ທີ່ດີທີ່ສຸດໃນວຽງຈັນ ອາໂກຼ ອາຊີ (Agro Asie) ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດີ ສະບັບນີ້ ຈະພາ ທ່ານໄປເລາະຕາມບັນດາຮ້ານຄ້າຕ່າງໆ ທີ່ຈຳ�ໜ່າຍຜະລິດຕະພັນແບບທຳ�ມະຊາດ ປອດສານພິດ (ກະສິກຳ�ອິນຊີ) ຢູ່ຕາມຕົວ ເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ເຊິ່ງຈະຊ່ວຍໃຫ້ທ່ານໄດ້ກນ ິ ອາຫານທີ່ເປັນມິດກັບສິ່ງແວດລ້ອມ ແລະ ສັງຄົມຫຼາຍຂຶ້ນ,ທັງຍັງເປັນອາຫານທີ່ດີຕໍ່ ສຸຂະພາບ ແລະ ແຊບນຳ�ອີກ! ສໍາລັບຂໍ້ມນ ູ ທົ່ວ ໄປກ່ຽ ວກັບການສົ່ງເສີ ມ ກຸ່ມ ຜູ້ຜ ະລິ ດ ກະສິກຳ�ອິນຊີພາຍໃນລາວ, ທ່ານສາມາດ ເຂົ້າໄປໄດ້ທີ່ www.laosorganic.com. 26

ອາໂກຼ ອາຊີ ຖື ກ ສ້າ ງຕັ້ງ ຂຶ້ນ ໃນປີ 2010ເຊິ່ງ ເປັ ນ ກິ ດ ຈະການ ເພື່ອ ສັງ ຄົມ ໂດຍແນໃສ່ຊ່ວ ຍເຫຼື ອ ຊາວກະສິ ກ ອນຜູ້ດ້ອ ຍໂອກາດ ໃນເມື ອ ງສັງ ທອງ ໃຫ້ມີ ລ າຍຮັບ ເພີ່ມ ຂຶ້ນ . ອົງ ການດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວກໍ່ຕັ້ງ ຂຶ້ນ ບົນຫຼັກການຄວາມຍືນຍົງ ແລະ ການດໍາເນີນການຄ້າແບບຍຸດຕິທໍາ, ໂດຍສຸມໃສ່ການປູກພືດປອດສານພິດຢູ່ພາຍໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ແລະຊ່ວຍ ໃຫ້ຊ າວກະສິ ກ ອນພາຍໃນທ້ອ ງຖິ່ນ ໄດ້ມີ ຊີ ວິ ດ ການເປັ ນ ຢູ່ທີ່ດີ ຂຶ້ນ ນຳ�. ຜະລິ ດ ຕະພັນ ຂອງ ອາໂກຼ ອາຊີ ປະກອບມີ ເຂົ້າ ກ້ອ ງ, ເຂົ້າຈ້າວ, ໝາກຖົ່ວ, ຊາ, ສະໝຸນໄພຊະນິດຕ່າງໆ, ພ້ອມຜັກ ແລະ ໝາກໄມ້ນ າໆຊະນິ ດ ເຊິ່ງ ທ່າ ນສາມາດເຂົ້າ ໄປຊື້ຢູ່ທີ່ຮ້າ ນໄດ້ເ ລີ ຍ . ນອກນັ້ນ ທາງບໍລສ ິ ັດ ກໍ່ຍັງມີບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານສົ່ງຮອດບ້ານທຸກໆອາທິດ ສຳ�ລັບ ທ່ານທີ່ຕ້ອງການກະຕ່າທີ່ເຕັມໄປດ້ວຍອາຫານປອດສານພິດ ສົດໆ ໃໝ່ໆ ມາສົ່ງເຖິງທີ່. ທ່ານສາມາດແວະເຂົ້າໄປສັ່ງຢູ່ຮ້ານ ຫຼື ຈະໂທ ໄປກໍ່ໄ ດ້, ເຊິ່ງ ລາຄາກະຕ່າ ໜຶ່ງ ລວມຄ່າ ຈັດ ສົ່ງ ຈະຕົກ ຢູ່ປ ະມານ 70,000, 80,000 ຫຼື 100,000 ກີ ບ , ຂຶ້ນ ຢູ່ກັບ ຄວາມຫຼາຍໜ້ອ ຍ ຂອງສິນຄ້າ. A: ຖະໜົນເຈົ້າອານຸ (ຂ້າງຮ້ານ ກາເຟ ຄອມມ້ອນ ກຣາວ) W: www.agroasie.com ເປີດ: ວັນຈັນ-ວັນສຸກ, 9ໂມງເຊົ້າ - 7ໂມງແລງ

I Agroasie, in downtown Vientiane. I

ຮ້ານ ຊາວບ້ານ ຜະລິ ດ ຕະພັນ ທີ່ຂຶ້ນ ຊື່ທີ່ສຸ ດ ຂອງຮ້າ ນຊາວບ້າ ນ ກໍ່ຄົງ ຈະເປັ ນ ອັນ ອື່ນ ໃດບໍ່ໄ ດ້ ນອກ ຈາກນົມ ສົ້ມ ຫມາກໄມ້ລົດ ຊາດແຊບໆ ທີ່ມີ ວ າງຂາຍຢູ່ຕ າມຕູ້ແ ຊ່ເ ກື ອ ບທຸ ກ ຮ້າ ນຄ້າ ຊັ້ນ ນຳ�ໃນຕົວ ເມື ອ ງວຽງຈັນ ເຊິ່ງ ຮ້າ ນຊາວບ້າ ນນີ້ ທຳ�ອິ ດ ແມ່ນ ໄດ້ເ ລີ່ມ ຕົ້ນ ມາຈາກການກໍ່ຕັ້ງ ໃຫ້ເປັນສະຫະກອນແມ່ຍງິ . ປັດຈຸບັນ ອົງການນ້ອຍໆນີ້ ໄດ້ຊກ ຸ ຍູ້ສົ່ງເສີມຊາວກະສິກອນພາຍ ໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ໃນການຜະລິດອາຫານເພື່ອສຸຂະພາບທີ່ປອດສານພິດ ແລະ ມີລົດຊາດແຊບນຳ�ອີກ. ນອກຈາກນົມສົ້ມທີ່ມີຊື່ສຽງໂດ່ງດັງແລ້ວ, ຮ້ານຊາວບ້ານ ຍັງໄດ້ຜະລິດນໍ້າໝາກໄມ້, ຊີສ, ໝາກໄມ້ກວນ, ນໍ້າແຈ່ວຈ້ຳ�, ນໍ້າເຜິ້ງ, ສະຫຼັດ ແລະ ອີກຫຼາຍໆຢ່າງເຊິ່ງທ່ານສາມາດຫາຊື້ໄດ້ ຕາມຮ້ານມິນມ ິ າດທົ່ວໄປ, ຮ້ານຂາຍເຄື່ອງຍ່ອຍ, ຮ້ານຄ້າM-Point ແລະ ຍັງມີຂາຍຢູ່ຮ້ານຊາວ ບ້ານເອງທີ່ຫາກໍ່ເປີດໃໝ່ໆນີ້. T: 21 452 900; 20 240 3415 A: ບ້ານສະພານທອງໃຕ້ (ໃກ້ກັບໂຮງຮຽນນານາຊາດວຽງຈັນ) W: www.xaoban.com ເປີດ: ທຸກມື້, 10ໂມງເຊົ້າ - 7ໂມງແລງ

I Organic tomatoes. I

I A shopper peruses beauty products at AgroAsie. I I Local vegetables on sale at That Luang market. I ຕະຫຼາດກະສິກຳ�ອິນຊີ (ພືດປອດສານພິດ) ວຽງຈັນ ຖ້າທ່ານຕ້ອງການຊື້ພດ ື ຜັກຕາມລະດູ ທີ່ສົດໆໃໝ່ໆ ຈາກມືຊາວກະສິກອນໂດຍກົງ, ທ່ານບໍ່ຄວນພາດຕະ ຫຼາດກະສິກໍາອິນຊີວຽງຈັນ ທີ່ມຊ ີ ື່ສຽງແຫ່ງນີ້. ໃນທຸກໆຕອນເຊົ້າຂອງວັນພຸດ ແລະ ວັນເສົາ, ທ່ານຈະໄດ້ ພົບກັບບັນດາຜູ້ຜະລິດສິນຄ້າ/ພືດຜັກປອດສານພິດ ທີ່ໄດ້ຮັບການຢັ້ງຢືນມາແລ້ວເຊິ່ງເຂົາເຈົ້າຈະ ພາກັນ ມາຂາຍເຄື່ອ ງຕ່າ ງໆ ຢູ່ເ ດີ່ນ ເບຕົງ ຕໍ່ໜ້າ ພະທາດຫຼວງ ໂດຍເລີ່ມ ເປີ ດ ຕັ້ງ ແຕ່ 6 ໂມງເຊົ້າ ຈົນ ເຖິ ງ ຕອນທ່ຽ ງ. ຖ້າ ທ່າ ນຢາກໄດ້ພື ດ ຜັກ ງາມໆ ກໍ່ຕ້ອ ງໄດ້ມ າເຊົ້າ ໆແດ່ ເພາະສ່ວ ນຫຼາຍສິ ນ ຄ້າ ຈະໝົດ ກ່ອ ນທີ່ຕ ະຫຼາດຈະປິ ດ ຊໍ້າ! ນອກຈາກສະຖານທີ່ແ ຫ່ງ ນີ້ ຈະເປັ ນ ບ່ອ ນມາເລາະ ຊື້ເ ຄື່ອ ງດີ ໆ ແລ້ວ , ຕະຫຼາດດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວ ຍັງ ເປັ ນ ເວທີ ໃ ຫ້ທ່າ ນໄດ້ພົບ ປະກັບ ບັນ ດາຜູ້ຜ ະລິ ດ ຈາກ ທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ເພື່ອຊອກຮູ້ເພີ່ມເຕີມກ່ຽວກັບວິທກ ີ ານປູກພືດພັນຕ່າງໆ ແລະ ການສ້າງລາຍຮັບຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າ. ນອກຈາກນັ້ນຕະຫຼາດປອດສານພິດນີ້ ກໍ່ຍັງເປີດຕື່ມອີກທຸກໆວັນຈັນຕອນສວາຍ, ແຕ່ 1 ໂມງ ຫາ 6 ໂມງແລງ ທີ່ສວນເຈົ້າຟ້າງຸ່ມ. A: ວັນພຸດ ແລະ ວັນເສົາ ທີ່ເດີ່ນຕໍ່ໜ້າພະທາດຫຼວງ, ວັນຈັນ ທີ່ສວນເຈົ້າຟ້າງຸ່ມ W: www.facebook.com/vientiane.organic.market ເປີດ: ວັນພຸດ ແລະ ວັນເສົາ 6 ໂມງເຊົ້າ - ທ່ຽງ, ວັນຈັນ 1 ໂມງສວາຍ - 6ໂມງແລງ (ສະຖານທີ່ຕ່າງກັນ)

I Inside AgroAsie. I ຢູ່ຕາມຫິ້ງ ຢູ່ຮ້ານຄ້າ ນອກຈາກທີ່ກ່າ ວມາຂ້າ ງເທິ ງ ແລ້ວ , ທ່າ ນຍັງ ສາມາດເລາະຊື້ຜ ະລິ ດ ຕະພັນ ປອດ ສານພິດ ໄດ້ຕາມຮ້ານຕ່າງໆໃນຕົວເມືອງທີ່ຂາຍສິນຄ້າທີ່ຜະລິດຢູ່ພາຍໃນປະເທດ. ຜະລິດຕະພັນກະສິກອນລາວ (Lao Farmer’s Products) ໄດ້ຮັບການສ້າງຕັ້ງຂຶ້ນ ໂດຍສະຫະກອນການຄ້າຂາຍກະສິກຳ�ອິນຊີທີ່ເປັນທໍາຕໍ່ຜູ້ຜະລິດ ເຊິ່ງຜະລິດຕະພັນ ຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າກໍ່ລວມມີຫຼາກຫຼາຍຢ່າງ ເຊັ່ນ ໝາກໄມ້ກວນ, ເຂົ້າສານ, ນໍ້າເຜິ້ງ ເປັນຕົ້ນ. ນອກນັ້ນ ກໍ່ຍັງມີ ກາເຟພູເຂົາລາວ (Lao Mountain Coffee) ທີ່ເຮັດວຽກໂດຍກົງ ກັບກັບຊາວກະສິກອນລາວ ໃນການຜະລິດກາເຟຂົ້ວຫຼາກຫຼາຍຊະນິດ ທີ່ເພິ່ນປູກຢູ່ ພາຍໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນເລີຍ. ສ່ວນນ້ອງໃຫມ່ ສະໄປຣູລີນ ດູ ລາວ (Spiruline du Laos) ກໍ່ໄດ້ມີການປູກ ແລະ ຜະລິດສາຫຼ່າຍປອດສານພິດ -ເຊິ່ງເປັນ “ອາຫານເສີມພິເສດ” ເພື່ອສຸຂະພາບ ທີ່ມີປະໂຫຍດດ້ານໂພຊະນາການຫຼາຍໆຢ່າງ. ທ່າ ນສາມາດຫາຊື້ຜ ະລິ ດ ຕະພັນ ປອດສານພິ ດ ເຫຼົ່າ ນີ້ໄ ດ້ທີ່ ຮ້າ ນມິ ນິ ມ າດສີ ເ ມື ອ ງ, ຮ້ານມິນມ ິ າດພິມພອນ,ຮ້ານຄ້າM-Point,ແລະຮ້ານມິນມ ິ າດອື່ນໆໃນທົ່ວຕົວເມືອງວຽງຈັນ.

I Sweet potatoes at AgroAsie. I

I Organic eggs at the That Luang market. I

www.facebook.com/sdlaos ສະໄປຣູລນ ີ ດູ ລາວ (Spiruline du Laos) www.laofarmersproducts.com ຜະລິດຕະພັນກະສິກອນລາວ (Lao Farmer’s Products)

ກາເຟພູເຂົາລາວ (Lao Mountain Coffee) T: 021 412 529 A: (ຂາຍສົ່ງ) ຖະໜົນໜອງບອນ ເປີດ: ວັນຈັນ-ວັນສຸກ 8:30ໂມງເຊົ້າ-11:30ໂມງເຊົ້າ, 1:30ໂມງສວາຍ-3:30ໂມງສວາຍ W: www.laomountain.com

FURTHER AFIELD

words & photos Kristen Marano Â

| Trekking through fields of rice in Nong Khiaw. |

N W O T Y N I T A T AMONGSA S N I T N U O M THE

AND SINGING G IN H G U A L , G DRINKIN NG KHIAW O N IN S L A C O L WITH THE

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ເມືອງນ້ອຍໆ ທ່າມກາງພູເຂົາ ກິນລຳ�ທຳ�ເພງ ແລະ ຮ່ວມມ່ວນຊື່ນຢ່າງຄຶກຄື້ນ ນຳ�ປະຊາຊົນຢູ່ບ້ານໜອງຂຽວ ໜອງຂຽວ ເປັນເມືອງນ້ອຍໆຢູ່ທາງພາກເໜືອຂອງລາວທີ່ອ້ອມຮອບ ດ້ວຍພູຜາສູງຊັນ. ປະຊາຊົນໄທບ້ານໜອງຂຽວແມ່ນເປັນມິດຫຼາຍ ແລະ ຈະພາທ່ານໄປກິນອາຫານພື້ນບ້ານ, ດື່ມເຫຼົ້າລາວ ແລະ ຊວນທ່ານໄປຮ້ອງຄາຣາໂອເກະນຳ�.

LAO LEECHES

NONG KHIAW is the most rustic and remote place I’ve

ever seen. It’s a town connected by a bridge and only became a dot on the map a few years ago. Beyond a short Wikipedia entry, the town’s tourism potential is not well publicised. Travellers have largely been left to discover it for themselves. I arrived in the town after three hours of gripping the back of a seat as our minivan leaned around the curves of the cliff-side road from Luang Prabang.

These slimy, grey worms, the length of a fingernail, are prevalent in wet areas. They cling to shoes and leaves within forested areas. A small mouth latches onto skin and sucks blood if not removed within minutes. Use the ledge of paper or a leaf to remove them.

ທາກລາວ

ທາກໂຕຈ່ອ ຍສີ ໝົ່ນ ຍາວເທົ່າ ເລັ ບ ມື ແ ມ່ນ ມີ ຢູ່ຫຼ າຍຢູ່ເ ຂດປຽກ ຊຸ່ມ ໂຕຂອງມັນຈະຕິດຢູ່ຕາມເກີບ ແລະ ເກາະຢູ່ໃບໄມ້ໃນປ່າ ທາກຈະເກາະຢູ່ຕາມຜິວໜັງ ແລະ ເລີ່ມດູດເລືອດຖ້າຫາກບໍ່ເຂັ່ຍ ອອກໂດຍທັນທີ ໃຫ້ທ່ານໃຊ້ເຈັ້ຍ ຫຼື ໃບໄມ້ເພື່ອເຂັ່ຍທາກອອກ.

Our group was dropped off on the edge of a cinnamon-dusted dirt road that stretched out of sight as bamboo bungalows edged the chocolate-brown river. We were a large presence in a village that’s still adapting to foreigners. I tilted from the weight of my 30-kilo backpack and walked into the first guesthouse, Sunrise Bungalows, at one side of the bridge along the Nam Ou River. It was a bamboo hut with a balcony, mosquito net and bare bathroom. There was no electricity the day I arrived. I walked up the hill in search of greater comfort but came straight back down when I saw the prices at the only luxurious place in town, the Nam Ou Riverside Resort, were a little outside my budget. I settled into a square hut for 50,000 kip a night (US$6), where I later lay down in my hammock at sunset and stared straight at a beautiful mountain. What I had sacrificed in luxury I would gain in experience. I learned how to flush a manual toilet, brave big spiders and sleep soundly in absolute darkness. I dropped my bag and our group headed into town for a muchneeded cold Beerlao. A handful of restaurants are scattered along the main road, ranging from Indian restaurants to sandwich joints, to soup stands and

| Boats on the river. |

barbecues. We walked over the bridge in two minutes and arrived at Delilah’s Place, a restaurant-cum-traveller haven, where we lounged on crimson cushions and ate spicy chicken sandwiches and noodles. That evening, we enjoyed a whole-duck barbecue, chunky and crispy, for 10,000 kip. We sat under the sparkling stars, smelling the sweet night air. The town is quiet by 10pm unless you’re at one of the karaoke joints. One night we attempted to follow Lao lyrics of romantic heartbreak while clinking glasses of beer saying nyok (cheers in Lao). Our group opted for a day of adventure after learning about the 100 Waterfalls tour led by Tiger Trail Adventures (www.laos-adventures.com/) for 250,000 kip (US$31) a person. The next morning a short boat ride and 30-minute hike through rice fields brought us to our waterfall ascent. We climbed for two hours—small rocks turned into massive facades, and a stream of water turned into crushing white mist. A dip under a fast waterfall and curry rice lunch concluded our climb. During our descent we visited a village and met some local children, who were shy at first but giggled when they saw their photographs on the camera screen. The guide later shared that we were the second group to visit the village, making the experience even more cherished. | Climbing waterfalls with Tiger Trails. |

My village visit was one of several special moments in Nong Khiaw where I was welcomed like family by locals. I was a tourist when I arrived and a traveller when I left.

| A local man plays his guitar.|

ໜອງຂຽວ ເປັນບ່ອນທີ່ຫ່າງໄກສອກຫຼີກທີ່ສດຸ ເທົ່າທີ່ຂ້ອຍເຄີຍໄປມາ ນອກ ຈາກຄຳ�ອະທິບາຍແບບຫຍໍ້ໆໃນວິກພ ິ ເີ ດຍແລ້ວເມືອງດັ່ງກ່າວແມ່ນບໍ່ຄ່ອຍມີຄົນຮູ້ຈັກ ປານໃດ ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວທີ່ເດີນທາງມານີ້ ກໍ່ຕ້ອງໄດ້ຄົ້ນພົບດ້ວຍຕົວຂອງພວກເຂົາເອງ.

ຂ້ອ ຍມາຮອດເມື ອ ງນີ້ ຫຼັງ ຈາກທີ່ນັ່ງ ລົດ ຂຶ້ນ ພູ ລົງ ຜາມາເປັ ນ ເວລາ 3 ຊົ່ວ ໂມງ ຈາກຫຼວງພະບາງ. ບ້ານພັກທຳ�ອິດທີ່ພວກເຮົາເຫັນແມ່ນ ບັງກະໂລ ຊັນຣາຍ ເຊິ່ງຕັ້ງຢູ່ບໍລິເວນຂອບ ແມ່ນ້ຳ�ອູ ບ້ານພັກເປັນຕູບໄມ້ໄຜ່ພ້ອມລະບຽງ ມີມຸ້ງກັນຍຸງ ແລະ ຫ້ອງນ້ຳ�ທຳ�ມະດາໆ ມື້ທີ່ຂ້ອຍມາຮອດນັ້ນ ແມ່ນບໍ່ມໄ ີ ຟຟ້າໃຊ້ເລີຍ ຂ້ອຍກໍ່ເລີຍຍ່າງຂຶ້ນຄ້ອຍໄປ ເພື່ອໄປ ຊອກຫາບ່ອນພັກທີ່ຫຼູຫຼາກວ່ານີ້ ແຕ່ວ່າ ລີສອດ ນ້ຳ�ອູ ຣີເວີຊາຍ ຊໍ້າພັດມີລາຄາແພງ ເກີນກວ່າງົບທີ່ຂ້ອຍມີຢູ່. ຕູບນ້ອຍໆຂອງຂ້ອຍມີລາຄາພຽງແຕ່ 50,000 ກີບຕໍ່ຄນ ື ເທົ່ານັ້ນ. ຂ້ອຍນອນຫຼິ້ນພັກ ຜ່ອນເທິງເປຢູ່ບ້ານພັກ ແລະ ກໍ່ແນມເບິ່ງທິວທັດຂອງພູເຂົາອັນງົດງາມຫຼາຍ. ຂ້ອຍເອົາກະເປົາປະໄວ້ຫ້ອງ ແລະ ຈາກນັ້ນ ກຸ່ມຂອງພວກເຮົາກໍ່ມຸ່ງໜ້າເຂົ້າສູ່ໃນ ເມືອງ ເພື່ອໄປຊອກດື່ມເບຍລາວ ເຢັນໆແຊບໆ. ຢູ່ຖ ະ ໜົນ ຫຼັກ ປ ະ ກ ອ ບ ມີ ຮ້າ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ຫຼ າ ກ ຫຼ າ ຍ ຮ້າ ນ ຢັ່ງ ຢ າ ຍ ກັນ ໄ ປ ຢູ່ ຕາມທາງ ມີ ທັງ ຮ້າ ນອາຫານອິ ນ ເດຍ, ຮ້າ ນແຊນວິ ສ , ລໍ້ຂ າຍໝີ່ເ ຝີ ແລະ ບາບີຄິວ ພວກເຮົາຍ່າງຂ້າມຂົວປະມານ 2 ນາທີກໍ່ມາຮອດ ຮ້ານ ເດລິລາ ເພລສ ເຊິ່ງ ມີ ແຊນວິ ສ ໄກ່ເ ຜັ ດ ແລະ ໝີ່ແ ຊບໆ ໃນຕອນແລງຂອງມື້ນັ້ນ ພວກເຮົາຍັງໄດ້ກນ ິ ບາບີຄວ ິ ເປັດແຊບໆ ລາຄາ 10,000 ກີບ. ຮອດຍາມ 10ໂມງກາງຄື ນ ເມື ອ ງນີ້ກໍ່ມິ ດ ງຽບແລ້ວ ເວັ້ນ ເສຍແຕ່ ວ່າ ທ່າ ນຈະຢູ່ຮ້າ ນຄາຣາໂອເກະ ເຊິ່ງ ກໍ່ເ ປັ ນ ກິ ດ ຈະກຳ�ທີ່ມ່ວ ນດີ ຢູ່ ຖ້າຢູ່ນຳ�ໝູ່ຫຼາຍຄົນ. ກຸ່ມຂອງພວກເຮົາຕັດສິນໃຈໄປທົວ 100 ນ້ຳ�ຕົກ ນຳ�ພາໂດຍ ໄທເກີ້ ເທຣລ ແອັດເວັນເຈີ້ ໃນລາຄາ 250,000 ກີບຕໍ່ຄົນ. ເຊົ້າ ມື້ຕໍ່ມ າ ພວກເຮົ າ ຂີ່ເ ຮື ອ ບຶ ດ ໜຶ່ງ ແລະ ຍ່າ ງຕື່ມ ອີ ກ 30 ນາທີຜ່ານທົ່ງນາ ກໍ່ເດີນທາງມາຮອດນ້ຳ�ຕົກ ພວກເຮົາໃຊ້ເວລາປີນ 2 ຊົ່ວໂມງຈາກຫິນນ້ອຍໆກາຍເປັນພະລານຫິນໃຫຍ່ຈາກຫ້ວຍນ້ຳ�ນ້ອຍ ກາຍເປັນນ້ຳ�ຕົກຕາດໃຫຍ່. ເມື່ອ ສິ້ນ ສຸ ດ ການປີ ນ ພວກເຮົ າ ກໍ່ພ າກັນ ແຊ່ນ້ຳ�ຕົກ ຕາດເຢັ ນ ໆ ແ ລ ະ ກິ ນ ເ ຂົ້າ ກ ະ ຫຼີ່ແ ຊ ບ ໆ ພໍ ຮ ອ ດ ຕ ອ ນ ຂ າ ລົງ ພ ວ ກ ເ ຮົ າ ກໍ່ໄດ້ແວະຢ້ຽມຢາມບ້ານ ແລະພົບກັບເດັກນ້ອຍພາຍໃນບ້ານນັ້ນ ທຳ�ອິ ດ ເດັ ກ ນ້ອ ຍກໍ່ອ າຍໆ ແຕ່ພໍ ໄ ດ້ເ ຫັ ນ ຮູ ບ ເຂົ າ ເຈົ້າ ຢູ່ໃ ນຈໍ ກ້ອ ງ ເຂົາກໍ່ພາກັນຍິ້ມຫົວຢ່າງມ່ວນຊື່ນ ຈາກນັ້ນ ຜູ້ນຳ�ທ່ຽວຈຶ່ງໄດ້ບອກ ໃຫ້ພວກເຮົາຮູ້ວ່າ ພວກເຮົາເປັນກຸ່ມທີ່ສອງທີ່ໄດ້ມາຢ້ຽມຢາມບ້ານນີ້ ຈຶ່ງເຮັດໃຫ້ປະສົບການຄັ້ງນີ້ ຮູ້ສກ ຶ ປະທັບໃຈຂຶ້ນໄປຕື່ມອີກ. ການເດີ ນ ທາງໄປຢ້ຽ ມຢາມບ້າ ນເທື່ອ ນີ້ ແມ່ນ ເປັ ນ ໜຶ່ງ ໃນເຫດ ການພິ ເ ສດອັນ ໜ້າ ປະທັບ ໃຈໃນໜອງຂຽວ ເຊິ່ງ ຂ້ອ ຍຮູ້ສຶ ກ ວ່າ ຖືກຕ້ອນຮັບຢ່າງອົບອຸ່ນຈາກປະຊາຊົນຢູ່ນີ້ ພໍປານວ່າເປັນຄົນໃນ ຄອບຄົວດຽວກັນເລີຍ. 31

ໄປແນວໃດ

ມີລົດເມອອກທຸກມື້ຈາກຫຼວງພະບາງໄປເມືອງໄຊ ທ່ານສາມາດຈອງຜ່ານບໍລິສັດ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວຕ່າງໆໄດ້.

ທີ່ພັກ

ໜອງຂຽວ ມີບ້ານພັກ ແລະ ບັງກະໂລລາຄາຖືກຫຼາຍບ່ອນ ສາມາດຍ່າງໄປຫາກັນໄດ້ ຕັ້ງຢູ່ຕາມແຄມແມ່ນ້ຳ� ແລະ ໃນເມືອງ ທ່ານສາມາດຊອກຫາຂໍ້ມູນອອນລາຍໄດ້ ແຕ່ບໍ່ສາມາດຈອງທີ່ພັກລ່ວງໜ້າຜ່ານອິນເຕີເນັດໄດ້.

ສະກຸນເງິນ

ຢູ່ໜອງຂຽວມີຕູ້ເອທີເອັມ ແຕ່ບໍ່ມີບ່ອນແລກປ່ຽນເງິນຕາ ກະກຽມເງິນກີບໄປນຳ�ທ່ານ ແລະ ກຽມໄປເຜື່ອໄວ້ໃຊ້ໃນກໍລະນີທີ່ບໍ່ມີໄຟຟ້າ.

ທົວ

ໄທເກີ້ ເທຣລ ແອັດເວັນເຈີ້ ແລະ ກຣີນ ດິສຄາວເວີຣີ້ ລາວ ແມ່ນເປັນບໍລິສັດທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ທີ່ໄ ດ້ຮັບ ອະນຸ ຍ າດໃຫ້ດຳ�ເນີ ນ ງານຢູ່ໃ ນເມື ອ ງນີ້ ຖ້າ ຫາກໄປເປັ ນ ກຸ່ມ ໃຫຍ່ ລາຄາກໍ່ຈະຖືກລົງ.

SABAIDEE COVER

| Sheer cliffs dominate Khammouane province. Photo Michelle Luehman. |

words Michelle Luehman photos Michelle Luehman & Phoonsab Thevongsa

CLIFFS AND CAVES Motorcycling through the spectacular karst plains of central Laos Pancake-like floodplains stretch as far as the eye can see, interrupted sporadically by sheer cliffs of limestone erupting from the earth. Khammouane province in the heart of central Laos is home to some of the most spectacular scenery in the country. Traversing this alien landscape is the Thakhek Loop – a simple motorbike circuit connecting some of the region’s most spectacular sights, including the cavernous Kong Lor Cave.

ຜາ ແລະ ຖ້ຳ�

ທົ່ງພ ຽງຫີນປ ູນອັນສ ວຍສົດງົດງ າມຢູ່ພາກກ າງຂອງລາວ ທົ່ງຮ າບພຽງອັນກ ວ້າງໃຫຍໄ ່ ພສານ ຍາວຢຽດໄປໄກຈົນ ສຸດສ າຍຕາ ພ້ອມມີບັນດ າຜາຫີນປ ູນອ ັນສ ູງຊ ັນຕັ້ງສ ະຫງ່າ ຢູ່ແຖບທົ່ງພ ຽງ. ແຂວງຄຳ�ມ່ວນຕັ້ງຢ ໃ ູ່ ຈກາງ ພາກກາງຂອງປະເທດລາວ ແລະ ປະກອບມທ ີ ິວທັດທຳ �ມະຊາດທີ່ສ ວຍສົດງ ົດງ າມທສ ີ່ ຸດ ບໍ່ນ ້ອຍໜ້າບ່ອນອື່ນໆໃນລາວ. ທ່ານສາມາດເດີນທ າງມາຕາມ ເສັ້ນທ າງຮອບທ່າແ ຂກ - ເຊິ່ງ ເປັນເ ສັ້ນທ າງລົດຈ ັກ ທີ່ຈ ະພາທ່ານໄປຄົ້ນພ ົບບ ັນດ າ ສະຖານທີ່ທ່ອງທ່ຽວອັນສ ວຍງາມຫຼາກຫຼາຍບ່ອນ ລວມທັງຖ້ຳ �ກອງລນຳ ໍ �.

| A tractor on the road in Khammouane province. Photo Michelle Luehman. |

BASE CAMP

| Photo Michelle Luehman. |

The journey begins at Thakhek – a dusty border town sitting rather forlornly on the banks of the Mekong. Its glory days as a colonial French trading port are long gone, and the town is only now beginning to resurrect itself from the dust.

Red-and-white karst limestone cliffs ring the town. The water of the Mekong is clear with a lovely green tint and there are stunning, panoramic vistas all around. But Thakhek’s languid appearance is misleading. It is fast becoming a hub for adventure tourism activities like rock climbing and tourist arrivals are increasing rapidly. Once you’ve arrived at Thakhek’s bus station, catch a tuk tuk into town. The Inthira Hotel (www.inthira.com) is very comfortable and conveniently situated in the middle of the old town square, less than 60m from the Mekong. If you’re not sure about the best way to approach the loop or where to rent motorbikes, it’s worth heading to the local tourist information office. The tuk tuk drivers know where to find it. We rented 110cc Chinese workhorse motorbikes from Wang Wang’s, opposite the Inthira. For the bikes, well-fitting helmets and a rudimentary map we paid 60,000 kip each.

ບ່ອນຕັ້ງຫຼ ັກ

ການເດີນທ າງໃນຄັ້ງນ ີ້ແມ່ນເ ລີ່ມຕ ົ້ນທ ີ່ ທ່າແ ຂກ ເຊິ່ງປະກອບມີບັນດ າ ຜາຫີນປ ູນສ ຂ ີ າວສະຫຼັບແ ດງ ລຽງລາຍກັນໄ ປຢູອ ່ ້ອມຮອບເມືອງ. ແມ່ນ້ຳ �ຂອງຢູ່ ເມືອງນີ້ ເປັນສ ີຂຽວງາມແລະ ໃສດີ, ພ້ອມກັບພ າບທິວທັດທຳ �ມະຊາດອັນແ ສນ ງົດງ າມ ຕຶງຕ າຕຶງໃ ຈ ຢູຕ ່ າມອ້ອມຮອບຕົວເມືອງທ່າແ ຂກ. ເມື່ອມ າຮອດສະຖານລ ີ ົດເ ມທ່າແ ຂກ, ທ່ານກໍ່ຂ ລ ີ່ ົດຕ ຸກຕ ຸກຕ ໍ່ເຂົ້າມ າ ໃນເມືອງ.ໂຮງແຮມອິນທ ຣ ິ າ ເປັນໂ ຮງແຮມທີ່ຕັ້ງຢ ໃ ູ່ ຈກາງເມືອງເກົ່າເລີຍ, ໄປໃສມາໃສກໍ່ສະດວກສະບາຍ ແລະຢູ່ຫ່າງຈາກ ແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງພຽງ 60 ແມັດເທົ່ານ ັ້ນ. ຖ້າຫ າກທ່ານ ບໍ່ແ ນ່ໃ ຈວ່າ ຈະເລີ່ມກ ານເດີນທ າງໄປຕາມເສັ້ນທ າງ ຮອບລົດຈ ັກນ ີ້ໄດ້ແ ນວໃດ ຫຼື ບໍ່ຮ ູ້ວ່າສິໄປເຊົ່າລົດຈ ັກຢໃ ູ່ ສ, ທ່ານກໍ່ສ າມາດ ໄປສອບຖາມ ທີ່ຫ ້ອງການສູນຂ ມ ໍ້ ູນທ່ອງທ່ຽວຂອງແຂວງໄດ້ ພຽງແຕ່ບອກຄົນ ຂັບລ ົດຕ ຸກຕ ຸກ ເຂົາເ ຈົ້າກຈ ໍ່ ະພາທ່ານໄປຖືກ. ພວກເຮົາພາກັນເ ຊົ່າລົດຈ ັກຈີນ 110 ຊີຊີ ຈາກຮ້ານແວັງແວັງ, ກົງກ ັນຂ ້າມກັບອ ິນທ ຣ ິ າ, ເຊິ່ງຕົກຢ ູ່ຄົນລ ະ 60,000 ກີບ ລວມມຄ ີ ່າເ ຊົ່າລົດຈ ັກ, ໝວກກັນນ ໋ອກ ແລະແຜນທີ່.

ANCIENT CAVES DAY ONE We got of our bikes at Tham Pa Fa, often refered to simply as ‘Buddha Cave’. The limestone walls are lined with ancient statues of Buddha. It remains an active place of worship, with locals flocking here on weekends to picnic and pay homage to the images. We stopped again for a lovely swim at a natural lagoon called Tha Falang. “Falang” is Lao for “foreigner,” with the lagoon taking its name from the French colonialists who once bathed here. The ride is easy along a sealed road with just a few trucks from here to Mahaxai Mai and there are many beautiful natural caves to see. We breezed through these at a fair speed as we wanted to save time for the later parts of the loop, but there’s plenty of exploration to be done in this area. Take the left turn just before reaching the Mahaxai Mai town and continue on to the dam, located in the Tha Lang area. It should take you one more hour, again on sealed road, to reach the water’s edge. Sabaidee Guesthouse sits on the shore of the lake. The water is deep blue, punctuated by an eerie forest of dead white tree trunks.

| Photo Phoonsab Thevongsa. |

The first part of the loop takes you from Thakhek to a lake artificially created by the Nam Theum 2 dam reservoir. The length of this leg varies greatly depending on how many caves and swimming holes you want to stop at.

| Photo Michelle Luehman. |

ຜາບູຮານອັນເ ກົ່າແກ່ - ມື້ທີຫນຶ່ງ

ການເດີນທ າງຮອບນີ້ແມ່ນເ ລີ່ມຕ ົ້ນຈ າກທ່າແ ຂກມຸ່ງໜ ້າໄປຫາ ແມ່ນ້ຳ�ທີ່ເກີດຈ າກອ່າງເກັບນ້ຳ �ຂອງເຂື່ອນນ້ຳ�ເທີນ 2. ສຳ�ລັບໄລຍະທາງຂອງ ການເດີນທ າງຂານີ້ ແມ່ນແ ລ້ວແຕ່, ຂຶ້ນກ ັບວ ່າທ່ານຢາກແວ່ເບິ່ງຜ າ ຫຼື ແວ່ລົງລ ອຍນ້ຳ�ຈັກບ ່ອນແດ່. ພວກເຮົາລົງຈ າກລົດທ ີ່ ຖ້ຳ�ປາຝາ ຫຼືທ ີ່ຮູ້ຈັກກັນດ ໃ ີ ນນາມ ຖ້ຳ�ພະ, ທາງໃນຖ້ຳ�ເປັນກຳ�ແພງຫີນປ ູນ ເຊິ່ງປະກອບມີພະພຸດທ ະຮູບອັນເ ກົ່າແກ່ລຽງລາຍໄປຕາມຝາ. ປັດຈ ຸບັນ ຖ້ຳ�ແຫ່ງນີ້ ເປັນສ ະຖານ ທທ ີ່ ີ່ປະຊາຊົນພ າກັນເ ດີນທ າງມາກາບໄຫວ້ສັກກ ະລະບຊ ູ າຢູຢ ່ ່າງສະໝ່ຳ�ສະເໝີ ແລະ ກໍ່ພ າກັນມາ ກິນເ ຂົ້າສາມັກຄ ີໃນມວ ື້ ັນເສົາ-ວັນອາທິດນຳ �. ພວກເຮົາພາກັນຢ ຸດ ແລະ ລົງລ ົດອ ີກເ ທື່ອໜ ຶ່ງເພື່ອລ ອຍນ້ຳ�ຫຼິ້ນ ຢໜ ູ່ ອງນ້ຳ�ທຳ�ມະຊາດ ເອີ້ນວ ່າ ທ່າຝຣ ັ່ງ. ການຂລ ີ່ ົດຢ ເູ່ ສັ້ນທ າງນີ້ກສ ໍ່ ະດວກສະບາຍດີ ຂີ່ໄປຕາມທາງຢາງ, ແຕ່ກມ ໍ່ ີລົດບ ັນທ ຸກໜ ັກເປັນບ າງ ຈຸດ ຕາມທາງໄປມະຫາໄຊໃໝ່, ແລະ ຕາມທາງກໍ່ມ ຖ້ຳ ີ �ທຳ�ມະຊາດທງີ່ ົດງ າມຫຼາຍໆບ່ອນ ໃຫ້ໄ ດ້ ແວ່ຊົມ. ກ່ອນຈະຮອດເມືອງມະຫາໄຊໃໝ່ ໃຫ້ທ ່ານລ້ຽວຊ້າຍ ແລະ ສືບຕ ມ ໍ່ ຸ່ງໜ ້າໄປເຂື່ອນ ທີ່ຢ ບ ູ່ ໍ ລິເ ວນ ທ່າລ ັ່ງ, ໃຊ້ເ ວລາເດີນທ າງປະມານ 1 ຊົ່ວໂ ມງໄປຕາມທາງຢາງ ທ່ານກໍ່ຈ ະມາຮອດເຂດສຸດ ແຄມແມ່ນ້ຳ � ແລະ ພົບກ ັບ ເຮືອນພັກສ ະບາຍດີ ທີ່ຕ ັ້ງຢ ູ່ແຄມແມ່ນ້ຳ �ເລີຍ. ແມ່ນ້ຳ �ຢູ່ນມ ີ້ ີສຟ ີ ້າສວຍສົດ ງົດງ າມ ພ້ອ ມທັງມ ບ ີ ັນດ າປ່າຕົ້ນໄມ້ສ ີຂາວ ພົ້ນເ ດັ່ນຂ ຶ້ນມາຈາກໜ້ານ້ຳ � ແປກຕາດີ. 37

| Boats rest on the shores of Sainamhai Resort's private beach at sunset. Photo Michelle Luehman.|

WILD RIDE DAY TWO

The next morning we set off for Ban Khoun Kham (also called Ban Na Hin). The road starts out rough and stays that way until you reach Lak Sao. Luckily, this is the last section of unsealed road on the loop. You will encounter wide logging trucks hogging the narrow rural track and unpredictable, speeding pickup trucks that plaster you with mud or dust (depending on the season) when they pass you. Locals will zip nimbly and impatiently past you on their motorbikes. Once you’ve crossed he mountain range you will hit a section of road under ongoing construction that will either be all dust or all mud. We hit dust.

ຂີ່ລົດວ ິບາກ - ມື້ທ ີສອງ

ເຊົ້າມື້ຕມ ໍ່ າ ພວກເຮົາກໍ່ພາກັນມ ຸ່ງໜ ້າໄປບ້ານຄູນຄຳ � (ຫຼື ບ້ານນາຫິນ) ເຊິ່ງເ ສັ້ນ ທາງບໍ່ຄ ່ອຍດປ ີ ານໃດ ຈົນຮ ອດ ຫຼັກ ຊ າວ ແຕ່ກຍ ໍ່ ັງໄ ຄແດ່ ເພາະວ່າມີແຕ່ຈ ຸດນີ້ຈ ຸດ ດຽວເທົ່ານ ັ້ນທີ່ເ ປັນທ າງວິບ າກ ສຳ�ລັບການເດີນທ າງຂອງພວກເຮົາໃນຮອບນີ້. ຢູເ່ ສັ້ນທ າງນີ້ ທ່ານຈະພົບກ ັບລ ົດແ ກ່ໄ ມ້ຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່ຂຢ ີ່ ຕ ູ່ າມທາງແຄບໆ, ແລະ ມີລົດກ ະບະຂມ ີ່ າດ້ວຍຄວາມໄວແຊງໜ້າທ່ານໄປ ພ້ອມຂຝ ີ່ ຸ່ນໄຫງ່ກ ຸ້ມ ແລະ ຂີ້ຕ ົມ ເປິະເປຶ້ອນ. ເມື່ອທ ່ານຂ້າມຜ່ານສາຍພູນແ ີ້ ລ້ວ ທ່ານຈະພົບກ ັບທ າງທກຳ ີ່ �ລັງກ ສ ໍ່ ້າງ ຢູ່, ເຊິ່ງທ າງຢູ່ນີ້ ຄັນບ ເໍ່ ຕັມໄ ປດ້ວຍຂີ້ຝ ຸ່ນ ກໍ່ຈ ະເຕັມໄ ປດ້ວຍຂີ້ຕ ົມຕອນທພ ີ່ ວກ ເຮົາໄປ ພວກເຮົາເຈິຂຝ ີ້ ຸ່ນ ໄຫງ່ກ ຸ້ມໃ ສ່ໝ ົດຕ ົນໝ ົດໂ ຕ.

When we finally reached Lak Sao we immediately stopped at a roadside vendor selling a simple drink made of sugar cane, fresh orange juice and ice. We laughed as we realised that we were completely white from the fine, silty dust of the road. We quickly ate some khao piak (a popular Lao noodle soup) before making the final push to Ban Na Hin. This last section was a beautiful ride, featuring red limestone cliffs and a chance to see traditional village life. It was a calming, much-needed reprieve from the hectic morning.

ເມື່ອພ ວກເຮົາມາຮອດ ຫຼັກຊ າວ ແລ້ວ, ພວກເຮົາກພ ໍ່ າກັນຟ ້າວຈອດລົດ ລົງໄປຊນ້ຳ ື້ �ອ້ອຍກັບນ້ຳ �ໝາກກ້ຽງສົດເ ຢັນໆຢລ ູ່ ໍ້ແຄມທາງ. ພວກເຮົາພາກັນຫ ົວ ຂວັນຕ ອນທຮ ີ່ ູ້ເມື່ອວ ່າ ຕົນໂ ຕຂອງພວກເຮົາເປັນສີຂ າວໝົດ ຍ້ອນຖືກຂ ຝ ີ້ ຸ່ນອາບ ມາຕາມທາງ. ຕໍ່ມ າ ພວກເຮົາກໍ່ພາກັນແ ວ່ກິນເ ຂົ້າປຽກ ກ່ອນທຈ ີ່ ະເດີນທ າງໄປ ບ່ອນສຸດທ ້າຍກໍ່ຄ ື ບ້ານນາຫິນ ສ່ວນເສັ້ນທ າງແຖວນີ້ ແມ່ນມ ີຄວາມງົດງ າມຫຼາຍ, ແນມເຫັນຜ າຫິນປ ູນສ ແ ີ ດງ ພ້ອມທັງໄ ດ້ເ ຫັນເ ຖິງວິຖຊ ີ ີວິດແບບດັ້ງເ ດີມ ຂອງປະຊາຊົນໃ ນເຂດນັ້ນນຳ �.

We stayed the night just outside the main town at Sainamhai Resort (www.sainamhairesort.com). The people of this area are known for producing high-quality textiles, specialising in a deep indigo-blue colour. The lady of the house at the resort can make you a Westernstyle maxi skirt or a traditional Lao sinh, so we picked out a pattern and had one done. The afternoon was completed with a chilly but delightful swim in the river at the resort’s private beach – exactly what we needed to wash away the dust from the ride.

ຄືນນີ້ ພວກເຮົາພັກຢ ູ່ບໄ ໍ່ ກຈາກໃນເມືອງຫຼາຍ ຢູ່ ສາຍນ້ຳ�ໄຮລີສອດ ປະຊາຊົນຢ ູ່ ຂົງເ ຂດນີ້ ແມ່ນຂ ຶ້ນຊ ື່ດ້ານການຜະລິດແ ຜ່ນຜ ້າທ ມ ີ່ ີຄນ ຸ ະພາບສູງ ແລະ ຊ່ຽວຊານດ້ານການຍ້ອມຜ້າສ ໝ ີ ໍ້ນິນ. ພະນັກງ ານທຢ ີ່ ລ ູ່ ີສອດ ສ າມາດນຳ�ຜ້າລ ວດ ລາຍລາວໄປຕັດສ ິ້ນ ຫຼື ກະໂປ່ງໃ ຫ້ທ່ານໄດ້, ພວກເຮົາກໍ່ເລີຍເ ລືອກລາຍ ແລະ ສັ່ງຕ ັດນຳ �ລາວເລີຍ. ກ ານເດີນທ າງຂອງຂອງພວກເຮົາໃນມື້ນີ້ ປ ິດທ ້າຍດ້ວຍການ ລົງລ ອຍນ້ຳ�ຢູ່ຫາດສ່ວນຕົວຂອງລສ ີ ອດ - ເ ປັນກ ານສະລ້າງຂຝ ີ້ ຸ່ນ ຈາກການຂລ ີ່ ົດຈ ັກມ າໝົດມ ື້ເລີຍ.

| Inside the caves of Khammouane. Photo Phoonsab Thevongsa. |

INTO THE BLACKNESS DAY THREE

The next day we set off for what many describe as the highlight of the loop – Kong Lor Cave. It’s about an hour’s ride across a spectacular floodplain flanked by steep, red limestone cliffs. This basin is where most of Laos’ tobacco is grown. The yellow-flowered crops stand defiant against the heat and contrast spectacularly with the red of the surrounding limestone. Simple two-storey houses covered in red mud line the road and a few buffalo graze leisurely by the roadside. It’s an easy, camera-clicking ride. The enormous Kong Lor Cave has been carved out of the limestone by a six-kilometre natural river that winds its way all the way from one side of a mountain to the other. At the mouth of the cave is a swimming hole where you can relax before or after navigating the river. Local villagers take you through the cave for 100,000 kip per longboat. Headlamps and life vests are supplied. The whole operation is exceedingly well run. The size of the cave is truly staggering, with cathedral ceilings that are completely lost in the darkness. The two boatmen (one at the front and one at the back) need their headlamps to steer along the river, so you have to use your own to illuminate the stalactites hanging precariously above. We went in the dry season so in some shallow parts we had to get out and walk or help the push the boat over the smooth, river-stone floor. The boats are swift, propelled by small engines and propellers, but the trip takes about 40-50 minutes one way. In one part you will disembark and walk along a well-lit pathway through a forest of stalactite and stalagmite formations. When you reach the other end of the cave you will find another small pool and a local village. We stopped here for lunch and watched local families swimming to escape the heat. Then it’s time to make the return trip back through the cave. The men steer the boat through small rapids and around boulders with amazing skill. After a final swim in the pristine lagoon, we headed back to retrieve our bikes.

| Photo Phoonsab Thevongsa.|

ເຂົ້າສູ່ຄວາມມືດມ ິດ – ມື້ທ ີສາມ

ມື້ຕມ ໍ່ າ ພວກເຮົາມຸ່ງໜ ້າໄປຫາສະຖານທີ່ ທີ່ເ ປັນຈ ຸດເດັ່ນຂ ອງການເດີນທ າງໃນຮອບນີ້ ກໍ່ຄ ື ຖ້ຳ�ກອງລໍ ພວກເຮົາໃຊ້ເວລາຂີ່ລົດປ ະມານ 1 ຊົ່ວໂ ມງ ຜ່ານທົ່ງພ ຽງອັນສວຍງາມ ພ້ອມຜາຫິນປ ູນສີແ ດງອັນສ ູງຊ ັນ ຕັ້ງສ ະຫງ່າຢແ ູ່ ຄມທົ່ງເຊິ່ງຕົ້ນຢາສູບຂ ອງລາວສ່ວນໃຫຍແ ່ ມ່ນປ ູກຂ ຶ້ນຢ ບ ູ່ ລ ໍ ເິ ວນນີ້. ຖ້ຳ�ກອງລຂ ໍ ະໜາດໃຫຍ່ ເປັນຖ້ຳ �ຫິນປ ູນ ມີແ ມ່ນ້ຳ �ທຳ�ມະຊາດຍາວ 6 ກມ ໄຫຼຜ່ານລອດພື້ນຖ້ຳ� ຕັ້ງແ ຕ່ ຟາກພູເບື້ອງໜຶ່ງ ໄຫຼຍາວໄປຈົນຮ ອດຟາກພູອ ີກເ ບື້ອງໜຶ່ງ. ຢູປ ່ າກຖ້ຳ� ມີບ ່ອນລອຍນ້ຳ�ໃຫ້ທ ່ານໄດ້ພ ັກ ຜ່ອນຢ່ອນໃຈກ່ອນ ຫຼື ຫຼັງທ ີ່ທ່ານລ່ອງເຮືອເຂົ້າໄປໃນຖ້ຳ�. ປະຊາຊົນເ ຂດນີ້ ຈະພາທ່ານຂເີ່ ຮືອຫາງຍາວເຂົ້າໄປໃນຖ້ຳ� ແລະ ເກັບຄ ່າບ ລ ໍ ກ ິ ານ 100,000 ກີບຕໍ່ລຳ�, ພ້ອມໄຟສາຍສຸບຫ ົວ ແລະ ເສື້ອຊ ູຊີບ ພ້ອມການບລ ໍ ິການທເີ່ ປັນລ ະບົບດີຫຼ າຍ. ຂະໜາດຂອງຖ້ຳ�ແມ່ນມ ຄ ີ ວາມຍິ່ງໃ ຫຍອ ່ ະລັງກ ານຫຼາຍ ກັບເ ພດານສູງໆ ທີ່ຫ າຍລັບເ ຂົ້າໄປໃນຄວາມ ມືດມ ິດ ພວກເຮົາໄປໃນລະດແ ູ ລ້ງ ຈຶ່ງຕ ້ອງໄດ້ລ ົງຈ າກເຮືອຢບ ູ່ າງບ່ອນທມ ີ່ ີນ້ຳ�ຕື້ນ ແລະ ຊ່ວຍຊຸກເ ຮືອ ຜ່ານພື້ນນ້ຳ �ທີ່ເປັນຫ ິນ. ເຮືອດັ່ງກ ່າວເປັນເ ຮືອໄວເດີນດ ້ວຍຈັກ ແລະ ໃບພັດຂ ະໜາດນ້ອຍ ແຕ່ກ ານເດີນທ າງກໍ່ໃ ຊ້ເວລາປະມານ 40-50 ນາທີຖ້ຽວດຽວ ໃນຊ່ວງໜຶ່ງ ທ່ານຈະໄດ້ຂ ຶ້ນຝ ັ່ງ ແລະ ຍ່າງເລາະລຽບໄປຕາມທາງຍ່າງຜ່ານດົງທ ີ່ ເຕັມໄ ປດ້ວຍຫິນງອກ ແລະ ຫິນຍ ້ອຍ. ເມື່ອທ ່ານມາຮອດອີກຟ າກໜ ຶ່ງຂອງຖ້ຳ� ທ່ານຈະພົບກ ັບສ ະນ້ຳ�ນ້ອຍໆ ແລະ ໝູບ ່ ້ານແຫ່ງໜ ຶ່ງ ພວກເຮົາ ໄດ້ພ າກັນພັກຜ ່ອນກິນອ າຫານທ່ຽງຢູ່ນີ້ ແລະ ແນມເບິ່ງປ ະຊາຊົນຢ ບ ູ່ ້ານນີ້ ລົງລ ອຍຫຼິ້ນນ້ຳ�ເພື່ອຫຼ ົບໜ ີ ຈາກຄວາມຮ້ອນ. ຕໍ່ມ າ ກໍ່ໄ ດ້ເ ວລາກັບຕ ່າວຄືນມ າຜ່ານຖ້ຳ�ອີກເ ທື່ອໜ ຶ່ງ ຜູເ້ ດີນເ ຮືອນີ້ ແມ່ນມ ທ ີ ັກສ ະທເີ່ ກັ່ງຫຼ າຍ ໃນການ ພາເຮືອຜ່ານແກ້ງນ ້ອຍ ແລະ ຜ່ານຫິນຕ ່າງໆ ພາຍຫຼັງທ ພ ີ່ ວກເຮົາລົງລ ອຍນ້ຳ�ໃນສະນ້ຳ�ອັນເ ກົ່າແກ່ເປັນ ເທື່ອສ ຸດທ ້າຍ ພວກເຮົາກພ ໍ່ າກັນເ ດີນທ າງກັບໄ ປເອົາລົດຈ ັກ. 39 | Photo Phoonsab Thevongsa.|

| Photo Michelle Luehman. |

HOMEWARD-BOUND DAY FOUR

On day four we woke early to temple drums, cattle bells and the sounds of a village coming to life. The views were spectacular as we headed east towards the major highway leading back to Thahkek. The sweeping panoramic vistas of mountain ranges with piercing, jagged pinnacles were totally awe-inspiring. A fantastic end to a truly unique Lao adventure. Getting there: Buses to Thakhek depart from Vientiane’s Southern Bus Station regularly. The trip takes about six hours.

The Thakhek Loop can be stretched to five days or compressed to three, depending on your interest in caves, hiking, swimming and how energetic you feel. Take it at your own pace!

ກັບຕ ່າວເມືອເ ຮືອນ – ມື້ທ ີສີ່

| Photo Michelle Luehman. |

ໃນມທ ື້ ີ່ສີ່ນີ້ ພວກເຮົາຕື່ນມາເຊົ້າແ ດ່ໜ ້ອຍໜຶ່ງ ພ້ອມໄດ້ຍ ິນສ ຽງຄບ ູ າຕກ ີ ອງເດິກຢ ູ່ວັດ ນຳ�ພວກເຮົາເດີນທ າງເມືອໄປທາງທິດຕ າເວັນອອກ ຕາມເສັ້ນທ າງຫຼວງກັບໄ ປສູ່ທ່າ ແຂກ ເຊິ່ງທ ິວທັດທຳ�ມະຊາດຕາມເສັ້ນທ າງນີ້ ແມ່ນມ ີຄວາມສວຍສົດງ ົດງາມຫຼາຍ ກັບບ ັນດ າພູທມ ີ່ ີຈອມແຫຼມຄົມ ປິດທ ້າຍການຜະຈົນໄພອັນແ ສນວິເສດ ແລະ ເປັນເ ອກະລັກສ ະເພາະ ລາວ. ການເດີນທ າງໄປ: ມີລ ົດເ ມໄປທ່າແ ຂກ ອອກຈາກສະຖານີລົດເ ມສາຍໃຕ້ຕະຫຼອດເວລາ ເຊິ່ງການເດີນທ າງແມ່ນໃ ຊ້ເວລາປະມານ 6 ຊົ່ວໂ ມງ.

ເສັ້ນທ າງຮອບທ່າແ ຂກນີ້ ສາມາດຂະຫຍາຍເປັນ 5 ມື້ ຫຼື ຫຼຸດລ ົງເ ຫຼືອ 3 ມື້ກໄ ໍ່ ດ້ ຂຶ້ນກ ັບ ວ່າທ່ານມຄ ີ ວາມສົນໃ ຈໃນຖ້ຳ� ການຍ່າງປ່າ ແລະ ການລອຍນ້ຳ�ຫຼາຍໜ້ອຍຊ່ຳ�ໃດ ແລະ ຂຶ້ນກ ັບວ ່າທ່ານມີແຮງຊ່ຳ�ໃດ ເລືອກເອົາຕາມໃຈທ່ານເອງເລີຍ!

I Dreamtime. I

The Good Guide

Sabaidee’s guide to the very best things to see, do, eat and drink in the country’s urban centres. This month we showcase some of the best weekend escapes from Vientiane – relaxing stays in eco-lodges and resorts just a short drive away from town.

We then take a look at Lao Shooting Concepts, a brand new facility in Vientiane featuring an archery and shooting range with aerial targets and the grounds for team paintball matches. We also get a taste of authentic barbecue Japanese at Sumibiyaki Torishige, along with our usual curated list of our favourite places around Laos in our EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP and SEE & DO listings.

ຄູ່ມືແນະນຳດີໆ ຄູ່ມືແນະນຳຂອງສະບາຍດີ ນຳພາທ່ານໄປສູ່ສິ່ງທີ່ດີທີ່ສຸດ ບໍ່ວ່າຈະເປັນ ບ່ອນເບິ່ງ, ບ່ອນທ່ຽວ, ບ່ອນກິນ ແລະ ບ່ອນດື່ມ ຢູໃ່ ນຕົວເມືອງຂອງລາວ. ໃນເດືອນນີ້ ພວກເຮົາຄົ້ນພົບບັນດາສະຖານທີ່ທ່ອງທ່ຽວທ້າຍອາທິດ ຄັກໆ ເພື່ອຫຼົບຫນີຈາກວຽງຈັນໄປຊົ່ວຄາວ - ໄປພັກຜ່ອນຢ່ອນໃຈຢູ່ ເຮືອນພັກແບບທຳມະຊາດ ຫຼື ລີສອດກໍ່ດີ ເຊິ່ງຂີ່ລົດອອກຈາກໃນເມືອງ ບໍ່ໄກຫຼາຍ. ນອກນັ້ນແລ້ວ ພວກເຮົາຍັງພາທ່ານໄປ ລາວ ຊູດຕິ້ງ ຄອນເຊັບ ເຊິ່ງເປັນ ສະຖານທີ່ແຫ່ງໃໝ່ໃນວຽງຈັນ ທີ່ມກ ີ ານຍິງທະນູ, ມີສະຖານທີ່ຊອ ້ ມຍິງປືນ ພ້ ອ ມເປົ້່ າ , ແລະ ຍັ ງ ມີ ເ ດີ່ ນ ໄວ້ ຫຼິ້ ນ ເກມກິ ລ າເພັ້ ນ ບອລເປັ ນ ທີ ມ ນຳ ອີກ. ພໍໄປຫຼິ້ນຮ້ອນໆແລ້ວ ພວກເຮົາກໍ່ຊອກແນວເຢັນໆມາໃຫ້ທ່ານ ກັບກະແລ້ມແດຣີ້ ຄວີນຢູ່ແຄມຂອງ, ພ້ອມທັງບັນດາສະຖານທີ່ຕ່າງໆ ທີ່ຖກ ື ໃຈພວກເຮົາໃນທົ່ວລາວ ຢູໃ່ ນລາຍການ EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP ແລະ SEE & DO listings ຂອງພວກເຮົາ. 41

SABAIDEE'S GUIDE TO

words & photos James Elton-Pym

WEEKEND ESCAPES TWO-DAY TRIPS OUT OF TOWN L OO K ING F O R A W A Y TO GET OUT OF V IENTIANE B UT DON’T W ANT TO TAKE ANY DAYS OFF WORK? SABAIDEE MAGAZINE GUIDES YOU THROUGH JUST A FEW OVERNIGHT STAYS THAT FEEL A MILLION MI L ES FRO M THE CIT Y, BUT ONLY TAKE A FEW HOURS TO REACH. P A CK A BAG !

ໜີທ່ຽວທ້າຍອາທິດ

ເດີນທາງໄປພັກຜ່ອນສອງມື້ຢູ່ນອກເມືອງ ທ່ານກຳ�ລັງຊອກຫາທາງ ໜີອອກຈາກວຽງຈັນ ແຕ່ບໍ່ຢາກເສຍມື້ພັກການ ຢູ່ບໍ່?

ສະບັບນີ້ ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດີ ຈະພາທ່ານໄປບ່ອນພັກຜ່ອນຄ້າງຄືນບາງແຫ່ງ ທີ່ຈະເຮັດໃຫ້ທ່ານຮູ້ສຶກຄືວ່າຢູ່ຫ່າງໄກຈາກໃນເມືອງໄປຫຼາຍພັນຫຼັກ

ແຕ່ໃຊ້ເວລາໄປຮອດພຽງແຕ່ບໍ່ເທົ່າໃດຊົ່ວໂມງເທົ່ານັ້ນ. ກຽມແພັກກະເປົາກັນເລີຍ!

I Dreamtime is set in beautiful natural surrounds. I

I Rivertime's floating restaurant. I RIVERTIME

DREAMTIME

Rivertime has quickly gained a reputation among the expats of Vientiane as a quick and relaxing trip out of town. Affable Englishman Barnaby runs the eco-lodge, which features a floating restaurant on the Nam Ngum River. The bamboo platform has a rectangular section cut out to make a natural swimming pool in the centre. Don’t be fooled though – the river runs swiftly and you’ll have to swim hard to keep your place in the pool! For a more relaxing experience without the fighting effort there are a couple of inner tubes lashed to the dock that you can float in with a cold Beerlao in hand. The food is fantastic. Order any fish dish and the staff will immediately pull a live Mekong specimen from a holding bay attached to the side. You can’t get much fresher than that. Stay overnight in Rivertime’s bungalows – or, if you’re really pressed for time, the resort is close enough to go up and back in a single day.

Dreamtime is just 25km up the Mekong from Vientiane, making it one of the easiest escapes to get to. The trip is simple to navigate and the maps provided on the website are detailed making it easy enough to get here on a bicycle or motorbike. The eco-lodge’s seven bungalows are constructed on solid masonry bases and built using salvaged wood and other natural materials. They’re scattered around the site haphazardly so as to fit in with the jungle – some are in the dense forest while others are right on the river. There is no electricity, although there are shared showers and toilets. The staff will provide eco-friendly soap if you want to wash in the river. The restaurant serves both Lao and Western food that you can enjoy by the light of candles after dark.

T: 020 5686 1166 A: 30km from Vientiane on the Nam Ngum

(see website for directions) W: www.dreamtime-laos.com

River (see website for directions) W: www.rivertimelaos.com

T: 020 7789 5721 A: 25km from Vientiane on the Mekong River

I Dreamtime I I Rivertime. I

I Long Ngum View Resort's infinity pool. I

BAN LAO PAKO Ban Lao Pako is an eco-lodge constructed on the site of an ancient Lao temple on a bend in the Nam Ngum river. It opened way back in 1993 – making it one of the oldest eco-lodges in the country – and its enduring success is no doubt partly thanks to some truly breathtaking views. The resort places a strong emphasis on sustainability. The building was constructed mostly with local materials, using farmed timber, and using traditional techniques. There is a simple restaurant serving mostly Lao food with a couple of Western items. The staff will also take you on a trek through the jungle or a cultural excursion if you ask them. There is no TV nor radio.

T: 030 96 58 150 A: On the Nam Ngum River (see website for directions) W: banpako.net

LONG NGUM VIEW RESORT The Long Ngum View Resort pitches itself as a romantic getaway or a perfect location for those looking to relax away from the city. Perched on the banks of the Nam Ngum Lake, the views of the sun setting over the water at night are spectacular. You can choose between staying in the resort’s hotel or one of the smaller bungalows. The restaurant serves Lao and European food with some fancy touches, like the option to have dinner served on the balcony of your room by a private waiter. There are a host of recreational activities on offer, including bushwalking, boating, jet skiing, kayaking, massages, a herbal sauna and a pool table. Wifi is available.

T: 021 21 4872 A: On the Nam Ngum Lake

I Ban Lao Pako. I

(see website for directions) W: www.longngumview-resort.com

I Long Ngum View Resort. I

ດຣີມທາມ

I Rivertime. I ຣີເວີ້ທາມ ຣີ ເ ວີ້ທ າມ ເລີ່ມ ມີ ຊື່ສ ຽງຂຶ້ນ ໂດຍສະເພາະ ໃ ນ ບັນ ດ າ ກຸ່ມ ຄົນ ຕ່າ ງ ປ ະ ເ ທ ດ ທີ່ອ າ ໄ ສ ຢູ່ ໃ ນ ລ າ ວ ເ ຊິ່ງ ຖື ວ່າ ເ ປັ ນ ກ າ ນ ເ ດີ ນ ທ າ ງ ໄ ປ ພັກ ຜ່ອ ນ ທີ່ບໍ່ໄ ກ ຈ າ ກ ໃ ນ ເ ມື ອ ງ ຫຼ າ ຍ . ຣີ ເ ວີ ທ າມ ເປັ ນ ເຮື ອ ນພັກ ແບບທໍາມະຊາດ ບໍ ລິ ຫ ານໂດຍຄົນ ອັງ ກິ ດ ແລະ ກໍ່ຍັງ ມີ ຮ້າ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ລ ອ ຍ ແ ພ ຢູ່ແ ຄ ມ ແ ມ່ນ້ຳ�ງື່ມ ນຳ�. ຢູ່ແ ພໄມ້ໄ ຜ່ນີ້ ເຂົ າ ເຈົ້າ ຕັດ ສ່ວ ນໃຈກາງອອກ ໃ ຫ້ເ ບິ່ງ ຄື ວ່າ ເ ປັ ນ ສ ະ ລ ອ ຍ ນ້ຳ�ແ ບ ບ ທຳ�ມ ະ ຊາດ. ສ່ວ ນລົດ ຊາດອາຫານແມ່ນ ແຊບຫຼາຍ. ເມື່ອທ່ານສັ່ງອາຫານທີ່ເຮັດຈາກປາ ພະນັກງານ ກໍ່ຈ ະເຊາະເອົ າ ປານ້ຳ�ຂອງເປັ ນ ໆຂຶ້ນ ມາຈາກ ແມ່ນ້ຳ�ເລີ ຍ - ສົດ ກວ່າ ນີ້ບໍ່ມີ ອີ ກ ແລ້ວ ! ແນະ ນຳ�ໃຫ້ທ່າ ນພັກ ແຮມຄ້າ ງຄື ນ ຢູ່ບັງ ກະໂລຂອງ ຣີເວີທາມ - ແຕ່ຖ້າຫາກທ່ານມີເວລາຈໍາກັດອີ່ຫຼີ ລີສອດນີ້ກໍ່ບໍ່ໄດ້ຢູ່ໄກຫຼາຍ, ສາມາດມາທ່ຽວແລ້ວ ກໍ່ກັບຄືນໄປວຽງຈັນໃນມື້ດຽວກັນໄດ້.

ດຣີ ມ ທາມ ຫ່າ ງຈາກວຽງຈັນ ພຽງແຕ່ 25 ກມ ຂຶ້ນ ໄປແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ, ຈຶ່ງ ເຮັ ດ ໃຫ້ເ ປັ ນ ໜຶ່ງ ໃນບ່ອ ນທ່ອ ງທ່ຽ ວທີ່ໄ ປໄດ້ງ່າ ຍດາຍ ທີ່ສຸ ດ . ການເດີ ນ ທາງແມ່ນ ໄປໄດ້ສ ະດວກ ແລະ ແຜນທີ່ໆມີຢູ່ໃນເວັບໄຊ້ ກໍ່ອະທິບາຍ ຢ່າ ງລະອຽດ,ຈຶ່ງ ເຮັ ດ ໃຫ້ເ ດີ ນ ທາງໄປໄດ້ ງ່າ ຍ ດ້ວ ຍລົດ ຖີ ບ ຫຼື ລົດ ຈັກ ກໍ່ໄ ດ້ເ ຮື ອ ນ ພັກແບບທຳ�ມະຊາດປະກອບມີ 7 ບັງກະໂລ ມີຖານກໍ່ດນ ິ ຈີ່ແໜ້ນໜາ ແລະ ສ້າງຂຶ້ນໂດຍ ໃຊ້ໄ ມ້ ແລະ ວັດ ສະດຸ ທຳ�ມະຊາດອື່ນ ໆ. ບັງກະໂລບາງຕູບກໍ່ຢູ່ໃນປ່າ ແລະ ບາງຕູບ ກໍ່ຢູ່ແ ຄ ມ ນ້ຳ�ເ ລີ ຍ . ຢູ່ນີ້ ບໍ່ມີ ໄ ຟ ຟ້າ ໃ ຊ້ ແຕ່ກໍ່ມີ ຫ້ອ ງອາບນໍ້າ ແລະ ຫ້ອ ງນໍ້າລວມ. ພະນັກ ງານ ຈະເອົ າ ສະບູ ທີ່ເ ປັ ນ ມິ ດ ກັບ ສິ່ງ ແ ວ ດ ລ້ອ ມ ໃ ຫ້ທ່າ ນ ໃ ຊ້ ຖ້າ ຫ າ ກ ທ່າ ນ ຕ້ອ ງ ກ າ ນ ລົງ ອ າ ບ ນ້ຳ�ຢູ່ໃ ນ ແ ມ່ນ້ຳ�. ຮ້າ ນອາຫານເສີ ບ ທັງ ອາຫານລາວ ແລະ ຕ່າງປະເທດ ໃຫ້ທ່ານໄດ້ຮັບປະທານອາຫານ ພາຍໃຕ້ແສງທຽນໃນຍາມຄ່ຳ�ຄືນ. ໂທ: 020 7789 5721 ທີ່ຢູ່: 25 ກມ ຈາກນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ຢູ່ແຄມແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ ເວັບໄຊ: www.dreamtime-laos.com

ໂທ: 020 5686 1166 ທີ່ຢູ່: 30 ກມ ຈາກນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນໄປຫາ ແມ່ນໍ້າງື່ມ ເວັບໄຊ: www.rivertimelaos.com

ລ່ອງງື່ມວິວ ລີສອດ

I Ban Lao Pako. I ບ້ານ ລາວ ປາໂກ ບ້ານ ລາວ ປາໂກ ເປັນເຮືອນພັກທໍາມະຊາດ ທີ່ສ້າ ງ ຂຶ້ນ ໃ ນ ເ ຂ ດ ວັດ ເ ກົ່າ ແ ກ່ຂ ອ ງ ລ າ ວ ຢູ່ທາງໂຄ້ງແຄມແມ່ນໍ້າງື່ມ. ບ້ານ ລາວ ປາໂກ ເປີດຕັ້ງແຕ່ປີ 1993 – ເຮັດໃຫ້ມັນກາຍເປັນ ໜຶ່ງໃນບັນດາເຮືອນພັກທຳ�ມະຊາດທີ່ເກົ່າທີ່ ສຸດໃນລາວ. ທາງລີສອດແມ່ນໃສ່ໃຈທາງດ້ານ ຄວາມຍືນຍົງທາງທໍາມະຊາດຫຼາຍ. ອາຄານ ຖືກສ້າງຂຶ້ນໂດຍນຳ�ໃຊ້ວັດສະດຸພາຍໃນທ້ອງ ຖິ່ນ ເປັ ນ ສ່ວ ນໃຫຍ່, ໃຊ້ໄ ມ້ທີ່ປູ ກ ຈາກສວນ ແລະ ນຳ�ໃຊ້ເ ຕັ ກ ນິ ກ ແບບພື້ນ ບ້າ ນ. ຢູ່ນີ້ມີ ຮ້າ ນອາຫານພື້ນ ໆ ເສີ ບ ອາຫານລາວເປັ ນ ສ່ວ ນໃຫຍ່ ແລະ ກໍ່ມີ ອ າຫານຕ່າ ງປະເທດ ຈຳ�ນວນໜຶ່ງ . ຖ້າ ທ່າ ນຖາມນຳ�ທາງພະນັກ ງານ ເຂົ າ ເຈົ້າ ກໍ່ຈ ະພາທ່າ ນໄປຍ່າ ງຜະ ຈົນ ໄພຢູ່ໃ ນປ່າ ຫຼື ທ່ຽ ວຊົມ ວັດ ທະນະທຳ� ໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ. ໂທ: 030 96 58 150 ທີ່ຢູ່: ຢູ່ແຄມແມ່ນ້ຳ�ງື່ມ ເວັບໄຊ: www.banpako.net

I Dreamtime I

ລ່ອ ງງື່ມ ວິ ວ ລີ ສ ອດ ຂຶ້ນ ຊື່ວ່າ ເປັ ນ ສະຖານ ທີ່ພັກ ຜ່ອ ນອັນ ແສນຫວານ ແລະ ກໍ່ເ ປັ ນ ສະຖານທີ່ ທີ່ເໝາະສໍາລັບຜູ້ທີ່ຕ້ອງການພັກ ຜ່ອ ນຢ່ອ ນໃຈ ຢູ່ຫ່າ ງໄກຈາກໃນເມືອງ. ລີສອດຕັ້ງສູງສະຫງ່າຂຶ້ນໄປ ຢູ່ແຄມອ່າງນ້ຳ�ງື່ມ ມີ ສ ະລອຍນ້ຳ� ແລະແນມເຫັ ນ ທິ ວ ທັດ ຕາ ເວັນຕົກດິນຢູ່ໜ້ານ້ຳ�ຍາມອັດສະດົງ ເປັນວິວ ທີ່ສ ວຍສົດ ງົດ ງາມຫຼາຍ. ທ່າ ນສາມາດ ເລືອກໄດ້ວ່າຈະຢູ່ໃນໂຮງແຮມຂອງລີສອດ ຫຼື ຈະຢູ່ບັງກະໂລນ້ອຍໆກໍ່ໄດ້. ຢູ່ຮ້ານອາຫານ ມີ ທັງ ອາຫານລາວ ແລະ ອາຫານເອີ ຣົບ ພ້ອມຍັງມີແບບຫຼູຫຼາໃຫ້ທ່ານເລືອກ ເຊັ່ນວ່າ ທ່າ ນສາມາດຮັບ ປະທານອາຫານຄ່ຳ�ແບບ ເປັນສ່ວນຕົວທີ່ສຸດ ຢູ່ລະບຽງຫ້ອງຂອງທ່ານ ພ້ອ ມພະນັກ ງານເສີ ບ ສ່ວ ນຕົວ . ຢູ່ລີ ສ ອດ ແຫ່ງ ນີ້ ຍັງ ມີ ກິ ດ ຈະກຳ�ພັກ ຜ່ອ ນຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ໃຫ້ທ່ານໄດ້ເລືອກ ບໍ່ວ່າຈະເປັນການຍ່າງປ່າ, ຂີ່ເຮືອ, ຂີ່ເຈັດສກີ, ຂີ່ເຮືອຄາຍັກ, ບໍລິການ ນວດ, ຮົມຢາພື້ນເມືອງ ແລະ ໂຕະພູລນຳ�. ຢູ່ນີ້ ມີອນ ິ ເຕີເນັດວາຍຟາຍໃຫ້ທ່ານໄດ້ໃຊ້ນຳ�. ໂທ: 021 21 4872 ທີ່ຢູ່: ຢູ່ແຄມອ່າງນ້ຳ�ງື່ມ ເວັບໄຊ: www.longngumview-resort.com

EAT

Listing

| Ai Capone |

VIENTIANE • AI CAPONE – Italian.

The latest offering from Chef Gerardo is Ai Capone, in downtown Vientiane. The contemporary interior is matched with a modern menu offering top Italian dining with a casual flair, boasting simple dishes packing authentic flavours. The menu ranges from pastas and mains to risotto and desserts – but it’s hard to look past the woodfired pizzas with over 40 combinations straight from Napoli. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, Ban Mixai, 020 5991 0888, facebook.com/aicaponelaospdr. Open 7 days 11.30am – 10.30pm.

• VEGETARIAN IN THE GOLDEN AGE – Vegetarian. The geniuses in the kitchen at

Vegetarian in the Golden Age have got fake meat down to a forensic art. Some veggies aren’t a fan of this, but if you can get past the weirdness of biting into superrealistic fried fish somehow created from soybeans, the dishes are delicious. Fake pork, beef and chicken are all on the menu too, alongside more conventional veggie staples like eggplant and tofu that aren’t pretending to be anything else. The food is fantastic and best shared with a few friends. The restaurant is run by Vietnamese monks, and the walls are adorned with photographs of famous Vietnamese Buddhist leader Master Ruma. Come at lunch for a super-cheap buffet. All food here is believed to be vegan. Vegetarian, vegan friendly. Lunch buffet. Saylom Road, 020 5550 5305. Open daily 8am-8pm.

| Bistro 22 |

• BISTRO 22 – French.

Chef Philippe presents honest French bistro fare at this cosy, hole-in-the-wall eatery. The food is fresh and flavourful with highlights including the goat’s cheese salad, rabbit terrine and classic steak frites. Popular with the expat crowd, the service is faultless and the desserts, including a delectable chocolate fondant, are not to be missed. 22 Samsenthai Road, Ban Khaonyot, 021 214 129 Open Monday to Friday 11am – 2pm, Monday to Saturday 6pm – 10pm.

• VEGIE HUT – Vegetarian. You would never ever

find this brilliant Chinese-style hideout if you weren’t looking for it. A lot of thought has been put into making Vegie Hut’s interior warm, comfortable and inviting. The menu is huge, and you’ll find flavours from Chinese, Lao and Thai cuisines. Dishes include fake duck and fake seafood. The staff are extremely attentive and friendly, and prices are very fair. Vegie Hut can get crowded, so consider making a booking. Vegetarian friendly. Asean Road, at the intersection with Sibounheuang Road, 020 5619 9938. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-9pm.

• SOUL KITCHEN – Italian. This laid-back dinner

hot spot is a little off the main drag but the pizzas and casual atmosphere – complete with rock and blues tunes – make it worth the trip. The menu includes tasty pasta dishes and salads but it’s the traditional wood fired pizzas that keeps Soul Kitchen’s loyal fans coming back for more. In keeping with the quotes from rock stars scrawled on the walls, the pies have fun names like ‘Rock n Roll’, ‘Purple Haze’ and ‘Voodoo Child’. Family friendly. Thadeua Road 143 (KM 0.5), 020 5612 0804, soulkitchen.vientiane@gmail.com Open Tuesday to Sunday 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

• BAN GAI TEX MEX CANTINA – American/ Mexican. A casual eatery which some say serves

the best chicken in Vientiane. Once famed purely for their finger-licking buffalo hot wings, Ban Gai has recently expanded their menu to include a host of authentic Tex Mex classics including nachos, enchiladas and burritos heaped with fresh salsa, gooey cheese and accompanied by bowls of piping hot rice and beans. Pair anything from the menu with one of their delicious margaritas and you’re set. Family friendly, delivery. Sokpalaung Road, 020 9825 6654, facebook.com/BanGaiHouseOfChicken Open Tuesday to Sunday 11am – 9pm.

• KUNG’S CAFÉ LAO. –

Lao/Breakfast. Tucked down a residential laneway, this popular breakfast and lunch haunt is a hit with those in-the-know. The breakfast and lunch menu runs all day so try Laoinspired sweets like sticky rice pancakes with mango or banana French toast and savoury dishes like meatballs in broth with a fresh crunchy baguette or the Pad Lao noodles with pork. On the main street, look for a small hand painted sign pointing the way. Off Rue Simeuang, Piawat Village, 021 219 101, Open 7 days 6am – 3pm.

| Vegetarian in the Golden Age |

• VIENG SAWAN – Vietnamese. Look beyond the

• RAY’S GRILLE – American/Mexican.

It’s all about comfort food at Ray’s – home style burgers, legendary Philly cheese steak sandwiches and tasty quesadillas – all fresh and made to order in this homely joint. While the real drawcard is the colossal cheeseburger (best handled with two hands) mention must also go to the felafel burger which is sure to satisfy vegetarians. A selection of local and imported beers are available including a few micro-brewed American craft beers – just the ticket to wash down this tasty diner fare. 17/1 Sihom Road, 020 5896 6866, facebook.com/raysgrilleLaopdr. Open Monday to Friday, Sunday 11am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm.

• LAO KITCHEN – Lao.

A colourful eatery that specialises in authentic Lao dishes. Sisters Noi and Teng run the show while their family help out in the kitchen preparing soups, stews, grilled meats, stir-fry dishes and of course laap (the duck variation is a stand out). A great place for those new to Lao cuisine – the menu is full of helpful explanations for each dish and warns you if something may be a little too piquant for some palates. Rue Hengboun (opposite KP Hotel), 021 254 332, lao-kitchen.com Open Monday to Sunday 11am – 10pm.

| Vegie Hut |

• ARIA MIXAI ITALIAN CULINARY ARTS – Italian. Aria presents high-end epicurean Italian cuisine

in an elegant salon setting in downtown Vientiane. The kitchen produces traditional hearty Italian fare including antipasti, homemade pasta and wood fired pizza using the highest quality ingredients. Discerning diners will welcome the extensive wine list which boasts fine imports from Italy. Set lunches are extremely popular on weekdays. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, 021 222 589

• LA SIGNATURE – French/Fusion.

Set in the stylish Ansara Hotel, this sophisticated restaurant perfectly marries French-Lao fusion with old-world charm. Choose between dining indoors in the highceilinged salon or al fresco on the elegant terrace. Sample salmon tartare with green apple millefeuille, Burgundy snails and three-flavoured lamb or let the chef guide you with daily specials including Lao-style petit fours. Desserts include a not-to-be-missed crème brulee trio. Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, 021 213 514, ansarahotel.com. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.00am, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 16.30pm – 9.30pm.

décor at this bustling eatery which serves up cheap and delicious Vietnamese dishes to hungry masses. Order a fresh or fried spring roll combination which comes with heaped plates of fresh lettuce, herbs and noodles designed to be eaten together. If you’re feeling lost check out how neighbouring diners are doing things and follow suit. Rue Hengboun (opposite Home Ideal), 021 213 990

• LE SILAPA RESTAURANT – French. Le Silapa

is an elegant gastronomic experience housed above the owners more casual establishment I-Beam Bar. Decadent and extensive the menu contains a collection of classic and modern French-inspired delicacies and the wine list includes bottles from France, Italy, Australia and South Africa. For a spot of post-dinner indulgence the cheese selection is outstanding. The ever-changing daily lunch set menu is a steal. Free WiFi. Level 1, 88 Setthathirath Road (above I Beam), 021 219 689 Open 7 days 11am – 11pm.

• MAKPHET – Lao.

This restaurant-cum-social enterprise is working to shape lives. Founded by Friends-International, Makphet provides training in hospitality to disadvantaged youth in Laos. If that wasn’t enough reason to dine here the kitchen creates an inspired take on Lao cuisine, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques. #78 Ban Inpeng, Vat Chanh Tha, 021 260 587, makphet-restaurant.org. Open Monday to Sunday 11am-10.30pm.

Eat

Highlight

Lao Blizzards at the new downtown

Dairy Queen Dairy Queen opened its second Lao branch on the Mekong riverside on June 18 to an ecstatic reception. The popular ice-cream chain was previously only open in Wattay International Airport, catering to arriving and departing passengers. The new shop – located in the heart of Vientiane on the main

river road – is constantly busy, churning out ice creams, sundaes, milkshakes, iced coffees and DQ’s signature ‘Blizzards’ to eager customers looking for a reprieve from the tropical heat. There are six varieties of hot dogs as a more savoury option. DQ also sells ice cream cakes for parties, with the option of a happy birthday message inscribed on the top with icing. The company is always changing the flavours available, so regulars will always find something new waiting within DQ’s slick, shiny walls.

F o l l o w t h e c o m p a n y ’s h y p e r a c t i v e F a c e b o o k p a g e a t www.facebook.com/DairyQueenLaos to stay up-to-date.

ແດຣີ້ ຄວີນ ໃນຕົວເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ແດຣີ້ ຄວີ ນ ໄດ້ມ າເປີ ດ ສາຂາທີ່ສ ອງຢູ່ລ າວຢູ່ແ ຄມຂອງ ໃນວັນ ທີ 18 ມິ ຖຸ ນ າ. ກ່ອນຫນ້ານີ້, ຮ້ານກະແລ້ມຕ່າງປະເທດທີ່ມຊ ີ ື່ສຽງແຫ່ງນີ້ ກໍ່ໄດ້ມາເປີດຢູ່ທີ່ສະໜາມ ບິນສາກົນວັດໄຕ ເພື່ອຮອງຮັບບັນດາຜູ້ໂດຍສານຂາເຂົ້າ-ຂາ ອອກຢູ່ທີ່ສະໜາມບິນ.

ຮ້າ ນ ໃ ໝ່ທີ່ຕັ້ງ ຢູ່ໃ ນ ກ າ ງ ນ ະ ຄ ອ ນ ຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ຢູ່ເ ສັ້ນ ແຄມຂອງນີ້ ແມ່ນ ຫຼັ່ງ ໄ ຫຼ ໄ ປ ດ້ວ ຍ ຜູ້ຄົນ ທີ່ເ ຂົ້າ ມ າ ຊື້ກ ະ ແລ້ມ , ຊັນ ເດ, ນົມ ປັ່ນ , ກາເຟເຢັ ນ , ແລະ ກະແລ້ມ ‘ບລິຊຊາດ’ (Blizzards) ທີ່ເ ປັ ນ ສັນ ຍາລັກ ຂອງແດຣີ້ ຄວີ ນ , ໂດຍ ລູ ກ ຄ້າ ກໍ່ພ າກັນ ເຂົ້າ ມາໜີ ຮ້ອ ນມາແວະເພິ່ງ ເຢັນ ທີ່ຮ້ານແຫ່ງນີ້ ນອກເໜືອຈາກຂອງຫວານແລ້ວ ກໍ່ຍັງມີຮ໋ອດດ໋ອກແຊບໆ ຫຼາກຫຼາຍເຖິງ 6 ຢ່າງ ໄວ້ບໍລິການທ່ານ. ນອກຈາກນັ້ນ ແລ້ວ ແດຣີ້ ຄວີ ນ ຍັງ ຂາຍເຄັ ກ ກະແລ້ມ ສຳ�ລັບ ງານລ້ຽ ງ ສັງສັນຕ່າງໆ ແລະ ທ່ານສາມາດເລືອກຂຽນຄຳ�ອວຍພອນວັນເກີດລົງເທິງ ໜ້າເຄັກນຳ�ອີກ. ທາງຮ້າ ນຈະປ່ຽ ນລົດ ຊາດໄປເລື້ອ ຍໆ ເອົ າ ໃຈລູ ກ ຄ້າ ຂາປະຈຳ� ທີ່ຊ ອກ ຫ າ ສິ່ງ ໃ ໝ່ໆ ຢູ່ສ ະ ເ ໝີ ທ່າ ນ ສ າ ມ າ ດ ຕິ ດ ຕ າ ມ ຂໍ້ມູ ນ ຂ່າ ວ ສ າ ນ ແ ລ ະ ອັບ ເດດໃໝ່ໆ ໄດ້ທີ່ຫນ້າ ເຟສບຸ ກ ຂອງບໍ ລິ ສັດ www.facebook.com/ DairyQueenLaos ເຊິ່ງເພິ່ນມີການເຄື່ອນໄຫວຢູ່ຕະຫຼອດເວລາ. 45

EAT

Listing

VIENTIANE • PIMENTON – Spanish/Steakhouse/Tapas.

Drawing on Hispanic flavours and flair the emphasis here is on open wood fire quality grilled meats and small bites. Try contemporary tapas like montadito of pork belly, homemade grilled chorizo, garlic prawns and imported jamón ibérico de bellota or look to the grill for succulent tenderloin or lamb chops served with a kicky chimichurri sauce. The slick warehouse-esque décor with polished concrete and exposed piping only enhances the dining experience at Vientiane’s hippest eatery. 5 Rue Nokeoukoumane, 021 215 506, pimentonrestaurant-vte.com Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 2.30pm, 5pm – 10pm.

• OSAKA HAC CHAO – Japanese. This cosy eatery

is usually buzzing with Japanese customers who come for a taste of home – always a good sign. Simple traditional and not-so-traditional Japanese fare is on offer including generous sushi and sashimi platters, crisp tempura, steaming bowls of ramen and udon noodle soups and a variety of katsu dishes. The set meals are a great way to try a little of everything and the tempura ice cream is a quirky addition to the sweets menu. Nokeokoummane Road (next to Le Banneton)

• BENONI CAFÉ – Asian/Western/Café. Escape

the bustle of downtown Vientiane at Benoni Café, a bright and airy café-cum-restaurant which serves up fresh and tasty Asian and Western fare. Choose from a wide range of baguettes, quiches, burgers and noodle and rice dishes – all prepared quickly and served with a smile. The Lao coffee is home roasted and the delicious cakes and sweets are all made in-house. WiFi, family friendly. Rue Setthathirath (above Phimphone), 021 213 334, Open Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm.

• YULALA CAFÉ & RESTAURANT – French.

Japanese/Fusion. Pull up a chair or nestle into a floor cushion at this cute little joint which puts a Japanese spin on Western ingredients. While the daily specials are ever-changing popular mainstays include sautéed chicken with tofu, soy sauce and mirin and the potato croquettes with mince beef and a tomato-based sauce. Set meals come with salad, pickled vegetables, flavoursome broth and steamed purple rice. Seating is limited so it can pack out early on the weekends. Rue Hengboun, 020 5510 4050, Open Tuesday to Sunday 11.30am – 2pm, 6pm – 9.30pm.

• JAMIL ZAHID RESTAURANT – Indian/ Pakistani. This cheap and cheerful eatery is

• L’ADRESSE DE TINAY RESTAURANT FRANÇAIS – French. Chef Tinay produces some

of Vientiane’s finest and most inventive French cuisine at this chic dining spot. The whole duck breast with homemade foie gras and white truffle oil is a current favourite and Tinay’s signature cassoulet with homemade confit duck is the perfect nod to traditional French comfort food. For dessert the crème brulee is the best in town. Behind Wat Ong Teu, 020 5691 3434, ladressedetinay.com Open Monday to Friday 11.30am – 2pm, 6.30pm – 10pm, Saturday 6.30pm – 10pm.

| L’Adresse de Tinay |

affectionately known simply as Jamil’s by the loyal diners that frequent it. Tucked down an alley, Jamil and his team serve up authentic Indian and Pakistani dishes which are full of flavour and light on the hip pocket. Ordering anything that comes from Jamil’s on-site traditional tandoori oven is always a safe bet. Off Khounboulom Road, Ban Haysok, 020 5650 2455,

• MASA SPOON CAFÉ N’ BISTRO – Asian/ Western. A bright and cheerful restaurant, split over

two levels Masa pairs minimalist furniture with feature walls of raw timber, cool wall art and vintage china. The menu runs from share-plates of Asian-spiced chicken wings and crunchy onion rings to dishes for one including signature dishes Masa Spoon burger, sticky BBQ spare ribs and tasty pastas. Sweet tooths will love the honey toast – perfect with a cup of tea. Rue Dongpalanthong, Phonesinuan (next to Pizza Company), 021 261 634, Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 11pm.

LUANG PRABANG | Les 3 Nagas. |

• RESTAURANT L’ELEPHANT – French/Lao.

L’Elephant is housed in a charming colonial building just steps away from the magnificent Mekong River. Specialising in traditional and creative French and Lao cuisine the kitchen places an emphasis on using organic, local produce which is grown in their own gardens a few kilometres out of town. Free WiFi. Kounxoa Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 252 482, elephantrestau.com Open 7 days 11.00am – 10pm.

• TAMNAK LAO RESTAURANT – Lao. A family• LES 3 NAGAS – Lao. Dining at Les 3 Nagas is a

distinctly local affair with the restaurant housed both on the inviting terrace of the 3 Nagas Hotel and inside an adjacent colonial-style building. Executing both authentic Lao dishes and the chef’s original creations with a touch of French finesse this attractive lunch and dinner spot presents some of the finest food in town. Start your meal with the crisp and tangy Luang Prabang salad and round off with the black sticky rice for dessert. Happy hours 3pm – 6pm. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, 3-nagas.com Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

run restaurant which delivers delicious authentic and homely Lao cuisine. The in-house cooking school means the staff know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask questions. Try the crispy bamboo shoots stuffed with pork and vegetables or the ubiquitous Luang Prabang sausage, both are done very well here. Sakarinne Road, 071 212 239, tamnaklao.net. Open 7 days breakfast 8.30am – 10.30am, lunch 11am – 3pm, dinner 5pm – 11pm.

• LA BELLE EPOQUE – Lao /Western. Housed

in the grand Luang Say Residence, just outside the city centre, this upscale dining room exudes a warm, heritage ambience. The seasonal, healthy and creative menu changes quarterly and features a tempting selection of regional dishes from Laos and further afield in South East Asia. An on-site fruit and vegetable garden means fresh ingredients are always at the kitchen’s fingertips. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260 891, luangsayresidence.com. Open 7 days 6am – 10.30pm.

• CAFÉ TOUI – Lao/Western. A colourful hole in

the wall on a quiet side street leading to the Mekong River. Chef Toui began his culinary journey as a waiter in Vientiane before working the kitchen at L’Elephant where he developed his passion for cooking. Now head of the kitchen at his own eatery Toui serves up hearty Lao and Western fare using fresh, local ingredients. Sisavangvatthana Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 020 5657 6763, cafetoui.com Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

LUANG PRABANG • TAMARIND RESTAURANT – Lao. Tamarind specialises in helping

diners explore and learn about Lao cuisine and the traditions associated with it. Enjoy sampling platters or something from the a la carte menu with explanations and demonstrations from helpful staff and the Nam Khan River as a picturesque backdrop. If you’re happy to be guided by the chef try one of the famed specialised feasts choices include Traditional Lao Fish Barbeque, The Adventurous Lao Gourmet and Luang Prabang Family Dinner. Ban Wat Sene on the banks of the Nam Khan River, 071 213 128, tamarindlaos.com. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 9pm. | Tamarind Restaurant. |

PAKSE • LE PANORAMA – Lao/International. As

the name might suggest this leafy rooftop terrace, perched on the top floor of the Hotel Pakse, has the best views in town. Diners can take their pick from a range of cuisines including Lao, Thai and French. No matter what you’re eating the fact remains Le Panorama is the place to sit back, relax and take in a glorious sunset in Pakse, chilled Beerlao in hand optional. Street 5, Bane Watlouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.com.

• NADAO – French/Lao.

A great find in Pakse, Nadao offers fresh and flavoursome French bistro fare and traditional Lao dishes in a fine dining atmosphere. A little out of the city centre, its location hasn’t stopped locals and visitors alike from flocking to experience some of the best gourmet dining in southern Laos. The service is faultless and the owner/chef will almost always be happy to suggest something from his repertoire. Near the Japanese Bridge (opposite the Champasak Grand Hotel), 021 213 174

• LAN KHAM NOODLE HOUSE – Lao.

Attached to the Lan Kham Hotel this noodle house is considered famous around these parts. Particularly popular with locals for breakfast – you may have to fight for a spot – Lan Kham consistently produces huge steaming bowls of noodle soup accompanied by heaped plates of fresh herbs and greens. Cheap and tasty, having this on your doorstep would be reason enough to stay at the neighbouring guest house. Street 13, Lakmeaumg Village. Open 7 days 6.30am – 1pm.

SAVANNAKHET • CAFÉ CHAI DEE – Japanese/Western. Fun little café housed in a sunshine-yellow building on the main street of Savannakhet. Chai Dee serves up a mix of Japanese favourites including katsudon, sushi, cold noodle salad alongside fresh sandwiches and Thai curries. Cosy into a comfy armchair with a freshly brewed Lao coffee lounge on the sunny terrace with an icy Chai Dee Cooler. Occasional live music in the evenings. Free WiFi, book exchange. 1 Latsavongseuk Road, Lattanalansy Thai Village, 020 9179 2479, cafechaidee.com Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am – 9.00pm. • LIN’S CAFE – Asian/Café. A friendly tucked away eatery housed

in a 1930s building complete with original art-deco tiles. Located in the heart of historic downtown this is the perfect place to while away the afternoon with a fresh Lao coffee and tasty Lao/Vietnamese fare. An upstairs gallery exhibits photographs of old Savannakhet. Free WiFi, tourist information, bicycle rental. Latsaphanit Road, Ban Xaiyaphoum Village, 020 9988 1630, lincafe.netau. Open 7 days 8.30am – 8.00pm. | Lin's Cafe. |

CAFÉ

Listing

VIENTIANE

| Le Trio Coffee |

| Common Grounds Café and Bakery |

• COMMON GROUNDS CAFÉ AND BAKERY – Café/Mexican. This family friendly café is the

| Café Nomad |

• CAFÉ NOMAD – Café. A hidden, hip little gem

• LE TRIO COFFEE – Café. Le Trio Coffee is the latest

• NOY’S FRUIT HEAVEN – Shakes/Café.

• TRUE COFFEE – Café.

perched on a bustling intersection, Café Nomad is a popular haunt for office workers, embassy staff and those in the know. Their straightforward menu of coffee, juices, paninis and cakes may be small, but it’s all executed extremely well. Free Wi-Fi, public pc/printer/scanner. 1-342 Dongpalanthong, Sisattanak, 020 5434 9977, facebook.com/ cafenomad.lao. Open Monday to Friday 8.30am – 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am – 6pm.

A cute and colourful hangout that is popular with travellers, Noy and her team serve up fresh and fast fruit shakes and juices in a medley of tropical combinations. If you’re after something you can sink your teeth into Noy’s is great for flavoursome sandwiches, wraps and burgers – try the felafel pita stuffed with fresh salad and feta. 60/2 Rue Hengboun. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm.

– Café. A popular place for a caffeine hit this light filled café serves up some of the best brew in town. Naked Espresso is all about a combination of fine Arabica beans sourced from Southern Laos and Northern Thailand, welltrained baristas, friendly service and a world-class espresso machine. Free Wi-Fi. Dongpalan Road, 021 454 6 3 1 , n a k e d e s p res s o caf e.n et. Open Tuesday to Friday 7am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 8am – 5pm.

• NAKED ESPRESSO

addition to Vientiane’s buzzy café scene, with their boutique art deco-inspired shopfront. An artisanal roaster since 2009, Le Trio roasts the finest Lao-sourced Arabica and Robusta beans with some of the best European equipment in-house. Now in their own café, guests can enjoy a brew on the sunny terrace, at the elegant salon-style bar, or pick up a bag of beans to enjoy at home. Setthathirath Road, 020 2255 3552, facebook.com/letriocoffee. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am – 4pm.

The Vientiane flagship of the popular Thai chain has the slick, western-style coffee house vibe down pat. But comfy sofas and speedy WiFi aside, the coffee here is excellent and comes in a myriad of piping hot and icy cold variations. Situated in the heart of downtown Vientiane True Coffee is perfect for a quick caffeine hit on-the-go or a lengthy escape from the daily grind with one of their delicious selection of sweet treats. 111 Setthathirath Road, close to Nam Phu Fountain, 044 253 338http:// www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet. asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• JOMA BAKERY CAFÉ – Café/Western. A name

synonymous with the Vientiane café scene, each of Joma’s three Vientiane shopfronts provides tasty, fresh eats and organic fair trade coffee in a cosy, coffeehouse atmosphere. The friendly staff and speedy service make Joma a popular choice for those on-the-go while others tend to linger awhile over breakfast, lunch or any of the delicious in-house baked goods. Free Wi-Fi, delivery. Joma Namphou: Th. Setthathilath, Joma Phonthan: Th. Dongpalane, Joma That Luang: cnr Singha Rd/Nongbone Rd, delivery: 021 254 333, joma.biz. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm.

perfect place to kick back in a comfy armchair and refuel with a coffee and homemade cake while the kids enjoy the outdoor playground. Their organic coffee is sourced from Saffron in Luang Prabang which supports farmers to grow coffee instead of opium, so you won’t feel too guilty settling in for a second latte. Free Wi-Fi. Rue Chao Anou, 021 255 057, facebook. com/commongroundslaos. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 8pm.

– Café. A cosy new coffee house in the That Luang area, Begonia serves up delicious Saffron-brand coffee from Luang Prabang. Fans of vintage-chic will love the array of quirky trinkets on display including old typewriters, retro phones and record players – and don’t forget to look up at the colourful umbrellas peppering the ceiling. Don’t miss a slice of Begonia’s signature crepe cake – layer upon layer of delicate crepes sandwiched with a filling of your choice including mango and coconut. Soi 4 off Nongbone Road, 020 5555 5082, facebook.com/pages/BegoniaCafé/124868954261514. Open Monday to Saturday 9am – 5.30pm.

• BEGONIA CAFÉ

| Joma Bakery Café |

CAFÉ

LUANG PRABANG – Café. Sitting pretty on the main street of tranquil Luang Prabang this elegant café-cum-restaurant combines the home-grown ingredients and cuisine of sister bistro L’Éléphant Restaurant with lighter café-style fare including a selection of delectable pastries. Free Wi-Fi. Sakarine Road, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

• LE CAFÉ BAN VAT SENE

| The Silk Road Café |

• LE PATIO CAFÉ – Lao/Café. Housed in the grounds of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre this intimate eatery offers a range of dishes from northern Lao ethnic minorities, making it the perfect stop after immersing yourself in Lao culture next door. Located at the base of Phou Si Hill patrons will enjoy a unique vantage point of this distinctive attraction. Free Wi-Fi. Ban Khamyong, le_patio@elephant-restau. com, elephant-restau.com/lepatiocafe.html. Open 7 days 9am – 5pm.

• THE SILK ROAD CAFÉ – Lao. Bringing

PAKSE

SAVANNAKHET

– Café. A Lao legacy, the well-known Sinouk Coffee empire has grown from its humble beginnings as a small plantation in the 1990s to a 50 hectare estate and is turning heads across Asia. Pakse’s Sinouk Coffee and Bakery outpost serves up delicious cups of Sinouk’s signature organic blend which comes direct from the farm in Paksong to the table. Free Wi-Fi. Pakse centre, near the Tourism Office, sinouk-cafe.comhttp://www.elephant-restau. com/cafebanvatsenefr.html.

• CAFÉ CHEZ BOUNE – Café/Western. Drawing

• SINOUK COFFEE AND BAKERY

| Sinouk Coffee and Bakery |

Listing

an east meets west philosophy to the kitchen the Silk Road Café combines regional flavours, local ingredients and ideas from cuisines the silk road passed through. Set against a backdrop of the Mekong River this open-air café is housed on the grounds of the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre making it the perfect spot to grab coffee and a bite after an on-site weaving workshop or demonstration. Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, Ban Saylom, 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 7 days 8am – 5pm.

crowds for great European fare, impressive décor and charming atmosphere, Café Chez Boune is a popular spot for dining out in Savannakhet. Opt for something light such as a tasty bruschetta or baguette or if you’re looking for something more substantial the seared duck breast or tender imported steaks are a good choice. Chaimeuang Road, Xayaphoum Village, 041 215 190, cafechezboune.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

BAR

Listing | Suite21 Cocktail Bar and Lounge |

VIENTIANE • APRIL 12 – Bar/Belgian. Located on the edge

of the Mekong just before the Don Chan Palace hotel, April 12 has been designed to capitalise on its premiere location. The ground floor features a moodily lit bar and dance floor, but the rooftop is the main attraction. The tables are kept separate from each other with walls of leafy pot plants. There’s a second bar on the roof that serves cocktails, wine and a few varieties of beer. The excellent food is mostly Vietnamese, but the menu does include some foreign and Lao items. Fa Ngum Road, opposite the Don Chan Palace hotel, 020 7798 5444. Open Monday-Saturday 5pm-1am.

• STICKY FINGERS – Bar/Western/Lao.

Sticky’s, as it’s more affectionately known, is a longtime expat institution drawing big crowds for their legendary happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights. The bartenders make a mean Tom Yum Martini which, refreshingly piquant, comes complete with a whole chilli garnish. Free WiFi, delivery. 10/3 Rue Francois Nginn, 021 215 972mailto:resa@letangor.com. Open Monday to Friday 5pm – 11pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am – 11pm. – Wine/Tapas Modern and casual this intimate bar combines an excellent drop of red or white with seasonal share plates like dainty croquettes, marinated vegetables and an inventive take on nachos con carne. I-Beam buzzes on Wednesday nights when ladies receive half price wine by the glass. Live jazz on Thursday nights. Free WiFi, lunch buffet daily. 88 Setthathirath Road, 021 254 523, facebook. com/ibeamvientianehttp://www.tree-alliance.org/ourrestaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm.

| April 12 |

• SUITE21 COCKTAIL BAR AND LOUNGE – Cocktail. A hip nightspot serving up some of the best

cocktails in town and in trendy mason jars no less. Try their lychee or passionfruit spin on the classic mojito and chill out with a flavoured shisha of which they have an extensive range of flavours. Suite21 also stocks a range of imported beer including the ever-elusive Corona chilled to perfection and done right with a wedge of lime. Free WiFi. Ban Phonesavang (between Star Pub and Sai Jai Restaurant), 020 7813 1399, facebook. com/Suite21Vientianemailto:resa@letangor.com. Open Tuesday to Sunday 7.30pm – 12.30am.

• THE SPIRIT HOUSE – Bar/Lao/Western.

An inviting meeting point with a sprawling terrace looking onto the Mekong River. The cocktail list is extensive with quality liquors preferred, perfect for a sundowner paired with tasty Lao bar snacks. It’s located on a quiet stretch of the waterfront which makes for a peaceful breakfast or afternoon drink before it busies up in the evening. Free WiFi. 93/09 Fa Ngum Road, Ban Seetarn Neua, 021 243 795, thespirithouselaos.com, info@ thespirithouselaos.commailto:resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 7am – 11pm.

• I-BEAM BAR

| The Spirit House |

• JAZZY BRICK – Bar.

With its exposed brickwork, moody lighting and distinct vintage-look decor The Jazzy Brick exudes effortless cool. The friendly staff make a mean cocktail and can usually make a recommendation from the extensive menu and the wine list is well-edited. Setthathirat Road (next to Wine95), 021 212 489, facebook.com/jazzybricklaomailto:resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 6pm – 12am.

with views of the Mekong River. Drawing huge crowds for rugby, football and soccer matches all broadcast live on big-screen televisions, the menu includes Lao, pizza and pub-style fare – perfect for ravenous sports fans. Khamkhong Road, Ban Khounta, 020 7759 4971, mailto:resa@letangor.com highlandbar.com.

• SENGTAWAN ROOFTOP BAR – Bar.

Tin paraphernalia, is the place to come if you’ve got a hankering for Hoegaarden or any of the other 79 imported Belgian beers they keep. Huge steaming pots of moules frites attract big crowds every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Free WiFi, beer specials on Thursdays. 32/4 Fa Gnum Quai (along the Mekong River front), 020 5610 3434, chokdeecafe.commailto:resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 10am – 11pm.

open air deck jutting right out to the Mekong River. Enjoy a cocktail or a beer at sunset then while away the evening under the stars and colourful lanterns on the terrace nibbling on some of the selection of Lao and Thai-inspired share plates. 183 Souphanouvong Road, Hom 1 Ban Nongpanay, 021 520 522, mailto:resa@ letangor.comkongview.com.

casual rooftop bar attracts an eclectic crowd of locals, seasoned expats and backpackers all who vie for a prime position along the balcony to watch the sunset over the Mekong River with a Beerlao nam kohn. Once the night comes things tend to kick up a notch with parties hitting the pool tables and beer towers. Fa Ngum Road, Wat Chanh, 020 5580 8281mailto:resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 11am – 12am.

• THE HIGHLAND RESTAURANT & BAR – Sports Bar. Casual and relaxed open-air sports bar

• CHOKDEE CAFÉ & BELGIAN BEER BAR – Bar/Belgian. This cosy pub, decorated with Tin

• KONG VIEW RESTAURANT AND BAR – Bar/ Asian. A contemporary Lao-style house with a leafy

• BOR PEN NYANG – Bar/Western/Lao. This

Sitting pretty on the top floor of the Sengtawan Riverside Hotel this rooftop terrace enjoys one of the most picturesque views of the Mekong River. Situated on the riverfront, a little out of the downtown action, this laidback spot is perfect for a low-key afternoon or evening of drinks and dinner. Ban Sithan Neua, 021 219 362, sengtawan.commailto:resa@ letangor.com. Open 7 days.

• WINE95 – Wine.

Whether you’re after a full-bodied red or a dry white Wine95 is the last word in wine service in Vientiane. Upon entry it is evident these guys know their stuff with a slick, fully stocked cellar bar complete with the DiWine Service System guaranteeing a fresh drop in every glass. A staircase leads to an intimate upstairs space with elegant lounges and objects d’art. Setthathirat Road (next to Phimphone), 020 5550 2957, facebook.com/Wine95mailto:resa@letangor.com. Open Monday to Saturday 5pm – 12am.

• KOP CHAI DEU – Bar/Lao/Western. Kop Chai

Deu have hit the nail on the head with their slogan ‘the place where the world meets’, on any given night the oldest and arguably best-located bar in Vientiane brings together locals, expats and travellers with refreshing drinks, good food and nightly live music. Try to nab a spot on the upper level decking to enjoy the sultry Lao evenings. Free WiFi. 54 Setthathirat Road (next to Nam Phu fountain), 021 251 564, facebook.com/KhopChaiDeumailto:resa@ letangor.com.

LUANG PRABANG

| Tangor |

• TANGOR – Bar/Tapas.

Contemporary chic meets colonial charm at this intimate spot on Luang Prabang’s main stretch. Tangor specialises in impeccably crafted cocktails and a generous selection of local and imported beers and ciders. Market produce dictates the everchanging menu of share plates but luckily for us their standout fish ceviche is a mainstay. House 63/6 Rue Susavangvong, 020 9560 7262, resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm. – Cocktail. Capturing the essence of a traditional colonial café this light and airy salon-style cocktail bar welcomes patrons with classic well-worn chesterfields, an inviting terrace and a marble fireplace in cooler months. The bar draws on inspiration from its home at the Luang Say Residence with a heritage theme featuring displays of old-world maps of Laos, hunting excursions and botanical studies. Enjoy fine wines from around the world and a range of enticing cocktails prepared with top-shelf spirits in this sophisticated and ambient venue. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260 891, luangsayresidence.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/ our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 9am – 11pm.

• 1861 BAR

• HIVE BAR AND RESTAURANT – Bar/ American. This vibrant garden bar is best known

for its snappy cocktails, extensive beer and wine list and for serving up home style southern favourites. Grab a beer and try the mahogany smoked BBQ ribs or pulled pork sandwich. Nightly live entertainment includes Ethnik; a live fashion show of ethnic minority costumes and hip hop performed by local b-boys. Bar Street, Ban Aphay, 020 5999 5370, hivebarlaos.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 12am, Sunday 10am – 12am.

• UTOPIA – Bar/Lao/Western. Hidden on the

lush banks of the Nam Khan river amongst charming tropical gardens and thatched decking Utopia has perfected laid back paradise. Patrons can languidly sip tropical cocktails on the cushioned terrace watching the river go by, play a board game with neighbours or party into the night in a tiki hut. Ban Aphay, 020 2388 1771, utopialuangprabang.comhttp://www. elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 8am – 11.30pm.

• ICON KLUB – Cocktail. This cosy bohemian haunt attracts a creative crowd, and welcomes live music, and hosts open mic poetry nights. Icon’s walls are adorned with vintage posters and film noir stills and punters are most likely to be seen sipping a brilliantly made cocktail (try the Bloody Mary or a dry martini) over a game of chess or retro board game. Free WiFi. Siphouttabath Road, Ban Xiengmouan, 071 254 905, iconklub.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 5pm – 11.30pm. | Tangor |

RELAX

Listing

VIENTIANE • ADINA SPA This experienced spa team provides

• MANEE SPA

• CHAMPA SPA & MASSAGE Champa has two

• NIKOLAZ MASSAGE

the ultimate pampering. Unlike many others spas, they provide Japanese traditional massages, Indian massages and a Hot Stone Massage. The facials are amongst the most advanced in the city. Higher-end prices. 170 Phonsaath, Kaysone Road, 021 414 138, 9am-10pm, www.adinaspalao.com.

locations in town within serene, quiet surroundings. Traditional Lao Massage, Herbal Treatments, Aromatherapy Massage and Body Steams have a range of lengths and prices. There is also a hand and foot spa, and waxing services. Among the best in Vientiane. Corner of Fa Ngum and Pangkham Roads, near Nam Phu, 021 251 926, 9am-10pm, www.champaspa.com.

About 4km from the city centre, Manee Spa offers consistently good massages in a tranquil setting. There are several private rooms with quality tables and a tasteful interior. It’s on the higher price scale but the setting with beautiful gardens is second to none. Sokpaluang Road, past the Myanmar Embassy, 021 353 207.

This is just a 5-minute walk from the Mekong in the centre of town and they offer advanced massage and body therapies, as well as the traditional foot and body massages. The owners are very friendly and can further elaborate on options available. 45 Settathirath Road, 9am-11pm.

• NIRVANA SPA The head and back massage is • DALAH SPA Luxurious Dalah Spa have a mineral milk bath, anti-stress back and shoulder treatments, the Four Hands Massage and sports massage for those exerting themselves. Located on a quiet lane just off the main road. 140 Khouvieng Road, 021 285 125, 9am-9pm.

particularly good but it’s possible to get a combination of several treatments. The delightful honey body wrap could be combined with aromatic skin massage, followed by a herbal skin polish. Pangkham Road, facing Lao Plaza Hotel, 021 222 936, 10am-9pm, www.nirvana-spa-laos.com.

The setting in an old French colonial villa is charm enough, but inside the opulence is even greater. They’ve a Swedish oil massage, offer facials, body scrubs, reflexology and saunas. It’s definitely one of the pricier in the capital, but well worth it to relax in a state of pure luxury for a few hours. Phanya Sy Road, 021 216 550, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, www.papayaspa.com.

• PAPAYA SPA

White Lotus gives excellent foot massages in relaxing leather recliners. It’s one of the more affordable yet consistent massage businesses in town and has a great aromatherapy massage. Try the signature lotus foot massage or the Cleopatra treatment with gold masque for 200,000kip – heavenly. Also does yoga instruction. Pangkham Road, close to Nam Phu, 021 217 492, 10am-10pm.

• WHITE LOTUS MASSAGE & YOGA

• GIRIYA SPA You’ve got to travel to Rashmi’s Hotel,

3km from the city centre, to reach Giriya, but that’s small sacrifice for the awaiting experience. There’s an Indian atmosphere reflected in the decoration, while Thai masseuses give excellent massages in private rooms. Soon open to membership. Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Road Km3, 021 315 088, www.rashmishotel.com.

This hotel-based spa is walled-in with dark woods and has snow white beds with trinkets on lockers and candles burning for soft light. They’ve got traditional massage, body exfoliation and expert facial treatments for guests and visitors. Foot massages take place in comfy recliners with a view to the gardens. Green Park Hotel, 12 Khouvieng Road, 021 263 064, 10am-7pm, www.greenparkvientiane.com.

• GREEN PARK CHAMPA LAO SPA

This establishment has Lao style herbal saunas for men and women in separate rooms. It also offers different massages including Lao, oil and foot. Entrance fees include a towel for men but women must rent a sarong for a small fee. Located very close to the Mekong in central Vientiane. Chao Anou Road, 020 5504 5655, 1pm-9pm.

• HERBAL SAUNA

Another one of many in the centre of Vientiane, but definitely among the best. The staff is friendly and there’s a few packages to choose from. Otherwise, the Traditional Lao massage is very popular and the Swedish massage is also well worth a try. Pangkham Road, near Nam Phu, 021 223 857, 10am-9.30pm.

• MANDARINA BODY & SOUL SPA

| Giriya Spa |

| Dhammada Oasis Massage |

LUANG PRABANG • AYU SPA At Xieng Thong Palace Hotel, Ayu Spa is

• KIRIDARA SPA Kiridara Spa’s signature treatment

Tucked away beside a beautiful lotus pond and surrounded by coconut trees, Dhammada provides exceptional massages. There are aroma, oriental and foot massages to ease body tensions and bigger packages to spend a few hours. Very friendly and experienced staff makes Dhammada one of the best in town. Luang Prabang Oasis Hotel, Ban Vixoun, 071 212 642, www.luangprabangoasis.com.

• LAO RED CROSS

massage and body treatment heaven. Holistic practices performed by experienced therapists are a perfect way to slip into true relaxation. You could spend a half-day sampling the variety of massage and sauna/steam options, while a pedicure or manicure ties a few hours off. Kounxaou Road, Ban Phoneheung, 071 213 200, www.xiengthongpalace.com.

• DHAMMADA OASIS MASSAGE

is the Nuat Bouhan Massage, which lasts 90 minutes and fuses ancient Lao traditions with the regional therapies of Japanese Shiatsu, Thai massage and Chinese acupuncture. They’ve got many packages to choose from and the view over Luang Prabang is stunning. 22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham, 071 261 888, www.snhcollection.com/kiridara.

Set up to help children in poor communities, Lao Red Cross is one of the cheapest in town but with no compromise on quality. Housed in a Lao-French building, try the herbal sauna for 10,000 kip between 4pm-8pm, or go for one of the traditional massages. Bring your own towel or sarong. Wisunarat Road, 071 252 856, 9am-9pm.

This collective runs classes in yoga and meditation for beginner and experienced practitioners. The group alternates their regular classes between several picturesque riverside locations including Utopia and Ock Pop Tok and holds yoga retreats at Mandala Ou Resort in Nong Khiaw. luangprabangyoga.org.

• LUANG PRABANG YOGA Fully trained and qualified massage therapists mean Dok Champa is an excellent place to relieve stress. They offer sports, aromatic oil, and gel and lotion massage. There are also deep cleansing facials for those looking for complete body rejuvenation. Visounarath Road, Ban Vixoun, 020 7777 9966, www.dokchampamassage.com.

• DOK CHAMPA MASSAGE

Across from Wat Sop, L’Hibiscus has been open for several years and rated amongst the best in town. Hot herbal compress, aromatherapy and even eye treatments are on the menu. L’Hibiscus is in a charming old two-storey building and exudes a soothing atmosphere. 45 Sakhaline Road, 030 923 5079, 10am-10pm.

• L’HIBISCUS SPA

• SANCTUARY MASSAGE This is the place to try a superb Thai herbal compress massage. Sanctuary applies steamed Thai and Chinese herbs to the body in a kneading action to release muscle tension and stiffness. There are also aroma and oriental massages in calming rooms. Sanctuary Hotel, Kitsalat Road, 071 213777, www.sanctuaryluangprabang.com.

Spread over three locations, The Spa Garden (also known as Aroma Spa) has a deep tissue massage, a Mystic Lao massage and a foot massage with herbal creams amongst its signature treatments. Spa products also available for purchase. Ban Phonheuang, 071 212325, 10am11pm, www.spagardenlpb.com.

• THE SPA GARDEN

SEE & DO

Listing

VIENTIANE | i:cat gallery | | Cope Visitor Centre |

• HOUEY HONG VOCATIONAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR WOMEN – Class/Craft. The Centre provides training and employment for disadvantaged Lao women in the areas of natural dyeing, weaving, tailoring and administration. Visitors can tour the facilities and take part in dyeing and weaving classes creating a unique textile to take home, the cost of which includes transfers, lunch and provides direct support to the Centre. The gift shop sells stylish products made on-site by staff and trainees. Lane 19, Houey Hong Village, 021 560 006, Mon-Sat 8.30am–12pm, 1.30pm–4.30pm, www.houeyhongcentre.com.

• I:CAT GALLERY – Gallery. A bright and inviting

gallery space featuring a revolving programme of engaging exhibitions from local artists working in a range of mediums. A collection of original prints, art books, photography, paintings and handmade cards are permanently for sale in the gallery space and past installations and events have included visual art, music, poetry, film and fashion. 230-231 Thanon Settathirath, Ban Simeuang, 020 7783 9674, Mon-Fri 6pm–8pm, Sat-Sun 1pm-6pm, www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

– Museum. Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, or COPE, is a locally run non-profit working with partners to provide rehabilitation services for Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) survivors and other people with disabilities across Laos. The Visitor Centre houses a free exhibition about UXO in Laos, stories from survivors and information on the services provided by COPE. Interactive displays, excellent documentaries and imagery provide a thought-provoking experience to visitors. There is an opportunity to support COPE through the gift shop or a donation. Centre of Medical Rehabilitation, Khouvieng Road, 021 218 427, 9am–6pm, 7 days, www.copelaos.org.

• COPE VISITOR CENTRE

– Tour. The perfect way to get back to nature while staying close to your base in Vientiane, Green Discovery Laos takes you to the Nam Ngum Resevoir. En route on this guided day-trip participants will get a first-hand look at Hmong village life to meet locals and visit the market before taking in the 11th century archaeological site of Van Xang. At the reservoir you’ll lunch on a floating restaurant and explore fishing villages and small islands by boat before returning to Vientiane. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

• DAY TRIP TO NAM NGUM LAKE

• LAO BOWLING CENTRE – Activity. A friendly place for a game of ten pin by day this unassuming venue is an evening hot spot with crowds flocking here once the regular haunts close. Get here in the early evening if you actually plan to get in a few rounds because by eight o’clock this joint is packed with locals having a laugh over Beerlao and interesting bowling techniques. But bor pen nyang, half the fun is kicking back with friends and waiting for a free lane. There are also snooker tables available for hire. Boulevard Khunbulom (near the National Stadium), 9am–late, 7 days. • LAO DISABLED WOMEN’S DEVELOPMENT CENTRE – Tour/Craft. A local non-profit run by

women with disabilities for women with disabilities. In a beautiful setting near the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge the Centre is a hive of activity with training programmes including sewing and needlework, social development and women’s civil rights. Visitors can tour the centre, buy locally-made handicrafts including accessories, fashion items and homewares and learn how they are made. Thadeua Road, Hadsayfong District, 021 812282, 8.30am–5pm, 7 days, www.laodisabledwomen. com.

| Lao Disabled Women's Development Centre | – Tour. Local tour guides Tuk Tuk Safari specialise in small group educational and interactive tours of Vientiane and surrounds. On this tour patrons will visit the Panyanivej Eco Rice and Fish Farm to have a hand at traditional Lao fishing, rice planting and other farm activities before using fresh farm ingredients to cook a traditional Lao lunch. 020 5433 3089, tours run daytime from Monday to Saturday, www.tuktuksafari.com.

• FROM FARM TO MARKET

| Lao Experiences Cooking Class and Food Tours |

• LAO EXPERIENCES COOKING CLASS AND FOOD TOURS – Class/Tour. Join friendly host Nook

as she teaches you to cook popular Lao dishes with fresh ingredients and traditional methods. These fun and interactive classes are held in a leafy garden kitchen by the Mekong River, the perfect setting to throw together a tasty laap or mok pa (banana leaf steamed fish) all of which you’ll devour at the end of class. The additional tour of the largest fresh market in Vientiane is great for those new to Lao ingredients. Bookings at The Full Moon Café or via lao-experiences.com, 020 5569 9429. Classes and Market Tours conducted daily.

• VIENTIANE BYCYCLE – Tour. Explore Vientiane

on two wheels in either a guided half or full-day tour allowing you to uncover a different side to the city. You’ll follow the gentle curve of the Mekong River to explore nearby scenic villages and observe fishermen and local temples. Back in the city centre you’ll pass touristic highlights like glittering temples, the grand Presidential Palace, Patuxai and That Luang while also venturing off the beaten path to capture scenes of Lao daily life in sleepy residential areas. 020 5581 2337, Tours run daily 8am to 5pm, www.vientianebycycle.com.

See & Do

HIGHLIGHT

words & photos James Elton-Pym

Groups of friends looking to bond through shooting each other with painful balls of paint will now have a way to do so. A brand new paintball arena and shooting range has opened just outside Vientiane in Ban Nathom, attached to the popular Ban Sufa Garden Resort. The expansive, jungle-like grounds offer plenty of hiding places and vantage points, making each paintball match totally unique.

Firefight in the jungle Paintball, guns and archery at Lao Shooting Concepts

People can fire both airguns and bows and arrows at the central shooting range. There are a few different target options with varying degrees of difficulty. Try hitting the still targets first. Then, you can try moving up to aerial shooting. A set of state-of-the-art machines can launch spinning targets high into the air – they’re very hard to hit at first, but you’ll find your accuracy improving with practice! The ‘weapons’ themselves are high-tech as well, with the guns shooting balls stuffed with a coloured powder that gives a ‘flash’ effect upon impact with the targets. This is the same system used in Olympic Games clay-shooting events, and makes for good photos too.

ຍິງປະທະຢູ່ໃນປ່າ

Lao Shooting Concepts operates right next to the Ban Sufa Garden Resort, which is owned by the same people. This makes it a fun place to get away for the weekend – come for the paintball, stay a night and recover at the resort and then leave the day after. There are swimming pools, a restaurant and bar serving both Lao and Western cuisines and some other activities like horseback riding.

ເພັ້ນບອລ, ປືນ ແລະທະນຢ ູ ູ່ລາວຊູດຕ ິ້ງຄອນເຊັບ

Lao Shooting Concepts Open daily, 10am – 10pm A: Ban Sufa Garden Resort, Ban Nathom, Vientiane T: 020 7742 2418 W: laoshootingconcepts.com

ປັດຈຸບັນ ບັນດາກຸ່ມໝູ່ຄູ່ ທີ່ກຳ�ລັງຊອກບ່ອນຍິງສີໃສ່ກັນ ແລະ ກັນ ກໍ່ຈະມີບ່ອນຫຼິ້ນ ແລ້ວທີ່ ເດີ່ນຫຼິ້ນເພ້ນບອລ ແລະ ສະໜາມຍິງປືນແຫ່ງໃໝ່ ທີ່ຫາກໍ່ເປີດຂຶ້ນຢູ່ບໍ່ໄກຈາກ ຕົວເມືອງຫຼາຍ, ຢູ່ບ້ານນາທົ່ມ, ຕິດກັບສວນບ້ານຊູຟ້າ. ຢູ່ເດີ່ນຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່ນີ້ ມີລັກສະ ນະຄືປ່າຈຶ່ງມີບ່ອນໃຫ້ລີ້ຫຼາຍບ່ອນ ແລະ ມີຈຸດໄດ້ປຽບຫຼາຍ ເຮັດໃຫ້ເກມເພ້ນບອລແຕ່ ລະເກມ ມ ຄ ີ ວາມເປັນເອກະລັກ. ທ່ານສາມາດຍິງໄດ້ທ ັງປ ືນລ ົມ, ທະນູ ແລະ ລູກສ ອນຢູທ ່ ເີ່ ດີ່ນຍ ິງປ ືນສ ູນກ າງ, ແລະ ມີເປົ້າຫຼາຍ ແບບໃຫ້ທ່ານເລືອກ ຈາກງ່າຍໄປຫາຍາກ. ໃຫ້ທ່ານລອງຍິງໃສ່ເປົ້ານິ່ງກ່ອນ, ກ່ອນທີ່ຈະລອງ ຍິງເປົ້າເຄື່ອນທີ່. ເຄື່ອງຈັກບາງອັນກໍ່ໝູນປິ່ນເປົ້າໃຫ້ລອຍຂຶ້ນໄປຢູ່ສູງຢູ່ເທິງ - ເຊິ່ງທຳ�ອິດຈະ ແນໃສ່ຖ ືກແມ່ນຍ າກຫຼາຍ, ແຕ່ທ ່ານຈະພົບວ ່າຖ້າທ ່ານຊ້ອມເລື້ອຍໆ ທ່ານກໍ່ຈ ະຍິງແ ມ່ນຂ ຶ້ນ! ອາວຸດຢູ່ນີ້ກໍ່ມີຄວາມທັນສະໄໝຫຼາຍ, ມີປືນທີ່ຍິງລູກປືນເປັນໜ່ວຍໝາກບານ ທີ່ຍັດແປ້ງ ເປັນສ ີໃສ່ທ າງໃນ, ເມື່ອ ກ ະທົບເປົ້າໝ າຍກໍ່ຈ ະເຫັນໄ ດ້ແ ຈ້ງ. ລະບົບນ ີ້ ແມ່ນລ ະບົບດ ຽວກັນ ທີ່ ລາວ ຊູດຕິ້ງ ຄອນເຊັບ ຕັ້ງຢູ້ຂ້າງສວນບ້ານຊຟ ູ ້າລສ ີ ອດເຊິ່ງບລ ໍ ຫ ິ ານງານໂດຍເຈົ້າຂອງດຽວກັນ. ສະຖານທີ່ນີ້ ເໝາະກັບການມາຫຼິ້ນມ່ວນໆທ້າຍອາທດ ິ - ມາຫຼິ້ນເພ້ນບອລ, ນອນພັກຜ່ອນຄ້າງ ຄືນຢູ່ລສ ີ ອດ ແລະ ກັບຄນ ື ເມືອເຮືອນມື້ຕໍ່ມາ. ນອກນັ້ນຢູ່ນີ້ຍັງມສ ີ ະລອຍນ້ຳ�, ຮ້ານອາຫານ ແລະ ບາ ເຊິ່ງເສີບທັງອາຫານລາວ ແລະ ອາຫານຕ່າງປະເທດ, ພ້ອມຍັງມກ ີ ດ ິ ຈະກຳ�ການຂີ່ມ້ານຳ�ອກ ີ . ລາວ ຊູດຕ ິ້ງ ຄອນເຊັບ ເປີດທ ຸກມື້, 10ໂມງເຊົ້າ-10ໂມງກາງຄືນ ທີ່ຢູ່: ສວນບ້ານຊູຟ້າລີສ ອດ, ບ້ານນາທົ່ມ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ໂທ: 020 7742 2418 W: laoshootingconcepts.com

LUANG PRABANG • ELEPHANT VILLAGE – Tour. Get up close to magnificent

| Elephant Village |

pachyderms at this tourist destination operated by international specialists and volunteers who aim to rescue, protect and rehabilitate elephants in Laos. There are a myriad of activities on offer for visitors including thrilling elephant rides, bathing elephants in the Nam Kahn River, a basic mahout training course and feedings. You can also stay overnight in on-site accommodation, aptly named the Elephant Lodge. To book and for more information visit elephantvillage-laos.com. Tours run 7 days.

• OCK POP TOK LIVING CRAFTS CENTRE – Class/ Craft. Take part in a fun hands-on workshop and learn traditional weaving and dying techniques from skilled Lao artisans at this handicrafts centre set in lush tropical gardens overlooking the Mekong River. A variety of classes suitable for a range of skill levels are on offer or you could visit the weaving centre for a free tour and observe weavers at their craft. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi Market), 071 212 597, 9am–5pm, 7 days, www.ockpoptok.com.

• TAMARIND COOKING SCHOOL – Class. This popular

cooking class, run by the restaurant of the same name, has been schooling students in the art of laap for years. Participants will first check out ingredients at a local fresh market then head to Tamarind’s lake-side cooking school to cook and, more importantly, eat. The menu consists of a range of Lao classics including jeow spicy dipping sauces and Tamarind’s signature chicken and herb-stuffed lemongrass. To book and for more information visit tamarindlaos.com. Full day classes Mon-Sat 9am–3pm, evening classes Mon-Fri 4pm–8.30pm.

PAKSE • KOFFIE’S COFFEE WORKSHOP PAKSONG – Tour. Explore Southern Laos’ renowned coffee country and see just how beans make it into your morning cup of Joe. You will visit Koffie’s own organic coffee plantation and farm when you’ll see arabica growing, picked, then learn about the husking and drying processes. After lunch you’ll get hands-on in roasting arabica beans yourself and brew yourself a flavourful cup of aromatic java. For more information visit paksong.info/laos_coffee_workshop. php, 020 2276 0439, coffee@paksong.info.

• SINOUK COFFEE RESORT – Garden. A must-

see if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, Sinouk is a name synonymous with coffee in Laos. Surrounding the resort are palatial landscaped gardens which include coffee plants, rock gardens, a lake and waterfalls. Visitors can enjoy a signature locally grown cup of coffee from Sinouk’s nearby plantation in the pavilion restaurant or cafe. For more information visit sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

| Tree Top Explorer |

• TREE TOP EXPLORER AT JUNGLE HOTEL PAKSONG – Tour. Green Discovery Laos lead an

unforgettable adventure in an unparalleled South East Asian mountain forest setting of Champassak province. This tour is not for the faint-hearted with zip-lining over gorges and waterfalls and breathtaking views from a canopy walkway leading to great fun in a stunning environment. Retire to the Jungle Hotel Paksong a cluster of private treehouses set amongst the lush forest. The ultimate experience in nature. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com. | Sinouk Coffee Resort |

SHOP

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VIENTIANE • LAO FINE ARTS HANDICRAFT JEWELLERY

Superbly crafted, resplendent jewellery made from wood, coconut and silver can be bought here. Other contemporary and more traditional items can also be purchased. 550/01 Thatluang Tai Village, Saysettha District, 020 5542 6993, 9.30am-5.30pm.

• NIGHT MARKET Drawing hordes of tourists and

locals to the riverside each evening you simply can’t miss the two rows of red-topped marquees along the waterfront mingling with smoky food stalls and mountainous balloon displays. The wares on sale may be aimed predominately towards tourists (think t-shirts, trinkets and Buddhist inspired art) but locals shop here too and there are plenty of bargains to be had. Mekong riverfront, Fa Ngum Road, Sunset-9pm, 7 days.

• SAOBAN CRAFTS A treasure trove of handmade

handicrafts created by over 300 artisans from villages across Laos. In store you’ll find unique woven baskets and textiles, exquisite homewares and contemporary jewellery with most goods crafted from natural dyes, local bamboo and organically grown cotton and proceeds going back to the artist. 97/1 Chao Anou Road, Mon-Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 1pm–8pm, www.saobancrafts.com.

A delightful gallery and crafts store featuring works from local and visiting artists and producing and selling the Les Artisans Lao range of organic skincare and beauty products. The range includes luscious body creams and soaps, all-natural repellents and aromatic oils. Vat Inpeng Street, 021 223 178, MonSat 8am–8pm, Sun 10am–6pm, www.artisanslao.com.

• T’SHOP LAI GALLERY

| T’Shop Lai Gallery |

| Carol Cassidy Textiles |

Intricate traditional Lao textiles are displayed in this beautiful gallery-workshop whose local weavers have exhibited in US museums. Carol works alongside local weavers to produce some incredibly complex and attractive pieces, specialising in 100% hand-woven silk. Noekummane Road, Ban Mixay, Mon-Fri 8am-12pm & 2pm-5pm, Sat 8am-12pm, www.laotextiles.com.

• CAROL CASSIDY TEXTILES

• FINER THINGS Radiant silks and authentic handicrafts line the walls of

Finer Things. The shop, set over two floors, has a flowing selection of traditional Lao skirts, colourful silks and figurines made from the delicate material. 34/03 Francois Ngin Road, 9am-6.30pm.

The Ministry of Silk displays a vast array of fine men’s and women’s clothing, fashion accessories, jewellery and handbags. The label is Laos’ first ready-to-wear collection and this flagship is one of the most prestigious stores in Vientiane, serving champagne and wine to customers. 99/01 Nam Phou Square, 021 213 776, 9am-9pm, 7 days, www. ministryofsilk.com.

• MINISTRY OF SILK

Monument Books has good-sized fiction and regional literature sections, as well as children’s travel, arts and history shelves. Travel guidebooks are available and Southeast Asian newspapers and international magazines are just inside the door. Nokeokoummane Road, 021 243 708, Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm, www.monument-books.com.

• MONUMENT BOOKS

| Ministry of Silk |

| T'Shop Lai Gallery |

| Saoban Crafts |

LUANG PRABANG A small distance away from the centre of town lies Phosi Market. This space sees every smell, sound and sight stake a corner as meat, spices, fresh vegetables, and fruits live side by side with those selling phones, watches and house wares. If you’re after a glimpse of local life, don’t miss this. Photisalath Road, south of Phou Vao Rd, 7am-5pm.

• PHOSI MARKET

• CAMA CRAFTS This is a non-profit self-help project

that supports village women by providing a space for them to sell their goods to a wider audience. Handmade products show off traditional patterns and craft techniques and make excellent mementos or gifts. Ounkham Road, Ban Wath Nong, Luang Prabang, 071 254594, www.camacrafts.org.

All products in here are handmade from wood or silk and wholly produced in Laos, overseen by the shop’s Canadian owner. There are wooden bowls, bed spreads, Buddha heads and cushions to catch the customer’s eye. Sakkarine Road, 071 254574, 9am-9pm, www.carusolao.com.

• CARUSO LAO

| Passa Paa |

SHOP

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LUANG PRABANG A boutique shop with shelves of original souvenirs and handicrafts. The store seeks to help local people by working with them to sell their products and improve their livelihoods. Many of the souvenirs are made from recycled paper, bamboo and other natural materials. Sisangvong Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 071 260 654, 8am-9pm, www.matesai.com

• MA TE SAI

| Ma Te Sai |

Down the length of Sisavangvong Rd is the city’s famous Night Market. Weave under awnings to admire handicrafts such as rosewood carvings and silver jewellery, alongside herbal teas, rice paper diaries and beautiful linen dresses. It’s a friendly market and bargains are to be had. Sisangvong Road, 5pm-11pm, 7 days (weather dependent).

• NIGHT MARKET

A shop with a difference. Ock Pop Tok seeks to empower local women by developing their artistic skills and sells their items. Woven textiles, bags and scarves are on offer, while they also run classes for visitors who want to try their hand at production or just admire artisans at work. The group also has a flagship store in Ban Vat Nong. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Sene, 071 253 219, 8am-9pm, www.ockpoptok.com.

• OCK POP TOK

• TRADITIONAL ARTS & ETHNOLOGY CENTRE

Although better known as a museum, the centre also supports over 500 handicraft producers from across Laos. They sell beaded necklaces, belts, backpacks, jewellery and lots of other items that showcase the enormous ethnic diversity of Laos. Kitsalat Road, Ban Khamyong, 071 253 364, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm, www. taeclaos.org.

• L’ETRANGER BOOKS & TEA This quaint book

café lies close to the Nam Khan River and sells secondhand books. It’s well-stocked and has novels in many languages that cover the arts, travel, fiction, culture and regional history. Over 70 varieties of tea are for sale upstairs. Phousi Road, Ban Aphay, 071 212 880, Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 10am-10pm.

The culmination of British and Lao creative minds, this store is the shopfront for the textile and accessories label of the same name. The label explores the language of desing that has evolved in Laos to re-think, re-interpret, and re-construct patterns, symbols and forms into contemporary bags, scarves, purses and more. 79 Ban Vat Sene, 020 5541 1244, 7 days 8am-8pm, www.passa-paa.com.

• PASSA PAA

SLEEP

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VIENTIANE • GREEN PARK BOUTIQUE HOTEL – Boutique.

Each of the 34 rooms at this exquisite hotel pairs traditional Lao-style orientation with fine contemporary architecture. The elegance of the interiors, both historic and modern, matched with the lush garden setting create a sophisticated blend of style, luxury and relaxing accommodation. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, city shuttle. 12 Khouvieng Road, 021 264 097, greenparkvientiane.com. Open 24 hours. Restaurant open 7 days 11.30am – 2.30pm, 6.30pm – 10.30pm.

| Green Park Boutique Hotel |

– Boutique. Tucked down a leafy laneway this boutique destination will delight even the most discerning guests. An elegant hideaway in the bustling city centre the 14 rooms, with private balconies looking onto manicured tropical gardens, exude understated colonial charm. In this location you’ll be surrounded by countless dining options but with excellent in-house restaurant La Signature at hand you won’t need to look far for exquisite epicure. Free WiFi, breakfast included, business. Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, 021 213 514, ansarahotel.com. Open 24 hours.

• ANSARA HOTEL

• SETTHA PALACE HOTEL – Top end.

This remarkable hotel is housed in a 1930s mansion which has been restored to its former imperial glory capturing an era of classic elegance, gracious service and French colonial sophistication. Light-filled rooms enjoy high ceilings and elegant touches like four-poster beds with down feather pillows and hardwood floors. Free WiFi, pool, breakfast included, business. 6 Pang Kham Street, 021 217 581, setthapalace.com. Open 24 hours.

• MANDALA BOUTIQUE HOTEL – Mid range/ boutique. A hip 1960s house turned hotel, the

Mandala Boutique Hotel has operated under many guises but none as cool as this boutique stay. In recent years the villa has been refreshed with colourful modern rooms but the unique spirit of the structure has been retained. Stay in and experience the beautiful grounds at night at the open air Mandala Restaurant. Free WiFi, bicycles to rent, transfers. Baan Phiavat, 021 214 493, mandalahotel.asia. Open 24 hours.

• PHASOUK RESIDENCE – Mid range. Influenced

by traditional Lao architecture Phasouk Residence offers carefully designed and decorated rooms that encapsulate warmth, comfort and relaxation. The specious deluxe suites feature plush king beds, elegant Lao objects and textiles and bay windows opening onto a private balconies. The cosier deluxe rooms offer similar understated elegance with double or twin beds. Free WiFI, spa, transfers. 57/4 Wat Xieng Gneun Road, 021 243 415, phasoukresidence.com. Open 24 hours.

– Top end. Mercure Vientiane is a 4 star-hotel that caters to both business and leisure travellers. This charming hotel is positioned conveniently close to Wattay International Airport, the Mekong River waterfront and the town centre with its many restaurants, cafes and bars. Enjoy fantastic service, sumptuous buffet or a la carte dining and a sunny pool terrace bar. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness. Unit 10 Samsenthai Road, 021 213 570, accorhotels. com. Open 24 hours. Le Café open 7 days 6am – 10pm, Poolside and Lobby bars open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

• MERCURE VIENTIANE

• CHANTHAPANYA HOTEL – Mid range.

Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre you’ll be at the doorstep of Vientiane’s myriad of bars, cafes and restaurants in this family-run hotel. The warm and inviting atmosphere extends to the spotless guest rooms which are decorated with Lao artworks and ornate carved timber furniture. Free WiFi, pool, business, transfers. Rue Nokeokoumane, Ban Mixay, 021 244 284, chanthapanyahotel.com. Open 24 hours.

• IHOUSE – Mid range.

Situated behind the iconic Nam Phou Fountain, a popular gathering place in the heart of Vientiane, iHouse is the perfect option for those who want to stay where the action is without the usual city centre price tag. Tidy, colourful rooms come in a range of configurations from budget to deluxe, all rooms feature comfy queen beds. Free WiFi. 72/6 Pang Kham Street, 021 217 053, ihouse-laos.com. Open 24 hours. | Ansara Hotel |

• SALANA BOUTIQUE HOTEL – Top end.

The grand façade of the Salana Boutique Hotel embodies sophistication and inside guests can escape the hustle and bustle and experience premier Lao hospitality. Designed to impress even the most discerning guests the ample rooms feature luxurious bedding and are tastefully decorated with Lao objects d’art. Free WiFi, spa, business. 112 Chao Anou Road, 021 254 254, salanaboutique.com. Open 24 hours.

• LAO PLAZA HOTEL – Top end. A preferred destination for travellers to Vientiane this is the country’s first five star hotel and is setting new standards in luxury hospitality. Over 130 rooms pair thoughtful Lao-influenced décor with modern conveniences. Opportunities for relaxation abound with a glistening swimming pool and traditional massages available from the spa. An array of cuisines are on offer in-house. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, business. 63 Samsenthai Road, 021 218 800, laoplazahotel. com. Open 24 hours.

VIENTIANE • PARKVIEW EXECUTIVE SUITES – Top end.

Perfect for an extended stay Parkview offers wellappointed serviced apartments in studio, one or two bedroom configurations. Situated in downtown Vientiane with easy access to Wattay International Airport Parkview offers modern amenities to the business travelled will a fully equipped meeting room and business centre. Top of the range recreational facilities include immaculate tennis courts, swimming pool, fitness centre, sauna and Jacuzzi. Luang Prabang Road, 021 250 888, parkviewexecutive.com. Open 24 hours.

– Mid range. If you’re looking to get back to nature the nine private bungalows surrounded by tranquil tropical gardens at Auberge Sala Inpeng might just do the trick. Situated in the Inpeng Temple Area of Vientiane you’d never know the riverfront and bustling city are right at your doorstep. The bungalows are designed like traditional timber Lao houses and are completed with comfortable furnishings, air-conditioning and private bathrooms. 63/6 Inpeng Street, Ban Wat Chanh, 021 242 021, salalao. com/Sala_Inpeng/Content/Inpeng.htm. Open 24 hours.

• AUBERGE SALA INPENG

| Salana Boutique Hotel |

• VIENTIANE GARDEN HOTEL – Mid range.

Situated in a peaceful corner of the city this small hotel offers contemporary-styled rooms surrounding a tranquil swimming pool and gardens. A truly modern experience each spacious room is complete with comfy beds, newly renovated bathrooms, LCD televisions and slick decor. The dedicated and professional staff will go out of their way to make your stay in Vientiane a special one. Free WiFi, pool. 56 Sihome Road, Ban Sihome, 021 241 963, vientianegardenhotel.com. Open 24 hours.

• DON CHAN PALACE, HOTEL & CONVENTION CENTRE – Top end. Commanding attention from its location on the edge of the majestic

Mekong River, Don Chan Palace offers sweeping views of Vientiane and northern Thailand. Each room, from the Classic to the Presidential Suite has been designed for comfort and convenience with plush beds, luxurious bathtubs and quality amenities. Sporting, leisure and dining facilities are first rate. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, business, shuttle service. Unit 6 Piwat Village, Sisatanak District, 021 244 288, donchanpalacelaopdr. com. Open 24 hours.

– Mid range. A top choice for business traveller and officials the Vientiane Plaza Hotel. For those looking for a business base while in town the convenient on-site office complex has hot desks and private spaces for rent. To unwind the fully-equipped fitness centre, tennis court and massage and spa centre are on hand. Spa, business. Sailom Road, Hatsady Neua Village, 020 2300 0433, vientianeplazalao.com. Open 24 hours.

• VIENTIANE PLAZA HOTEL

– Top end. A stylish and modern luxury hotel with easy access to the city centre and cultural and tourist sites. Guest rooms offer a range of accommodation options from cosy to decadent elegance and each room is a unique space specifically crafted to meet the tastes of guests with modern furnishings and stylish finishing touches. Free WiFi, pool, spa, fitness. Thadeua Road, Ban Beungkhayong-Tai, 021 315 088, rashmishotel.com. Open 24 hours.

• RASHMI’S PLAZA HOTEL

Vientiane’s Only Historical Luxury Hotel

www.setthapalace.com E-mail: reservations@setthapalace.com 6 Pang Kham Street, Vientiane, Lao PDR Tel: (856) 21-217581/2 • Fax: (856) 21-217583 A Belmont International Hotel

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Listing

LUANG PRABANG

| Villa Maly Hotel |

• 3 NAGAS HOTEL – Boutique. An intimate and

• VILLA MALY HOTEL – Top end. A residence

• THE APSARA

• LE SEN BOUTIQUE HOTEL – Top end. Just

• OCK POP TOK MEKONG VILLA – Mid range/ Boutique. Nestled on the banks of the Mekong River,

• SATRI HOUSE – Boutique. Located in the heart

charming boutique hotel situated on Luang Prabang’s main street across three heritage UNESCO-protected buildings. Each of the 15 rooms embodies simple and traditional sophistication with exotic hardwood floors, torchis walls and clay roof tiles. A range of configurations offer king and twin beds and you can opt for exclusive airport transfers and city tours in one of two immaculate vintage cars. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, 3-nagas.com. Open 24 hours.

a 15 minute stroll from old Luang Prabang but from Le Sen’s lush secluded gardens the city centre will feel a world away. Polished stone and neutral palettes create a slick yet soothing contemporary ambience to the 19 spacious rooms, each of which come with private balconies that overlook a central swimming pool. Free WiFi, pool, fitness, shuttle service to city centre. 113 Manomai Road, Ban Mano, 071 261 668, lesenhotel. com. Open 24 hours.

of charm, 33 art deco-inspired rooms are housed in seven low-rise buildings on this sprawling estate, just a short walk from the historic heart of the city. Each room is furnished with a blend of French and British colonial touches including classic adornments like hardwood floors, ornate rugs and old-world armchairs and with pool and garden views has the feel of staying in a private villa. Free WiFi, spa, pool. BP 158, 071 253 902, villa-maly. com. Open 24 hours.

award-winning textile centre Ock Tok Pop have created a truly relaxing and unique stay in a tropical paradise. Each of the four rooms combines contemporary design with colourful tribe motifs and the two Mekong facing rooms offer unrivalled views of the river. A free shuttle service will take you into town. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi market), 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 24 hours.

VANG VIENG • RIVERSIDE BOUTIQUE RESORT – Top end/ Boutique. A tropical oasis nestled on the banks of the

Nam Song River, Riverside Boutique Resort is a stylishly modern haven in Vang Vieng. Each of the 34 spacious suites are elegantly furnished with artworks and decors inspired by several ethnic groups of Laos, pairing perfectly with contemporary comforts like luxurious bedding and high-end amenities. The pristine swimming pool and the in-house restaurant and bar take in unparalleled views of the river and its sweeping mountainscapes. Gift shop, pool. Ban Viengkeo, 023 511 726-8, riversidevangvieng. com.

– Mid range. A beautiful Lao-style villa located in the heart of Vang Vieng – just steps away from all of the local highlights. The 28 well-appointed rooms come in a range of configurations to suit everyone from the comfort-seeker to the budget-conscious traveller. An airy rooftop terrace, complete with sun lounges, is the perfect spot to admire the surrounding ancient limestone mountain vistas. On-site eatery ‘The Kitchen’ serves up hearty local and international fare. Free WiFi. Ban Savang, 023 511 070, inthira.com.

• INTHIRA VANG VIENG

• THE ELEPHANT CROSSING HOTEL – Boutique.

Set along the Nam Song River, complete with breathtaking views of Vang Vieng’s majestic natural surrounds is The Elephant Crossing Hotel. A charming getaway, this hotel offers guests 31 rooms, all designed with comfort, elegance and convenience in mind. In addition to classic hardwood floors and spacious en suite facilities, each room features a generous private balcony which looks directly onto the river and mountains. Ban Viengkeo, 023 511 232, theelephantcrossinghotel.com.

| Riverside Boutique Resort |

– Boutique. A truly beautiful experience in Luang Prabang, The Apsara cultivates a sense of effortless elegance from the banks of the Nam Khan. Colonial charm meets luxe cool in each of the spacious bedrooms with crisp linens, traditional silks, quirky objects d’art with balconies and terraces overlooking the river. If you’re looking to spend your holiday poolside the equally captivating sister hotel The Apsara Rive Droite is just across the river. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Phanluang, 071 254 252, theapsara.com. Open 24 hours.

of the city, Satri House was built at the turn of the last century as the residence of Price Soupha-nouvong. It has been restored to its original elegance and is now renowned as one of the most exquisite structures in the city. Superior crafted wood furnishings are an ambient addition to each of the 31 rooms which feature generous balconies that look onto the manicured grounds. Free WiFi, pool, spa. 57 Photisarath Road, Ban Thatluang, 071 253 491, satrihouse.com. Open 24 hours.

PAKSE • WATERFALL RESORT BAN E-TU PAKSONG – Mid range. A

small cluster of charming bungalows on the site of a former coffee and tea plantation just outside of Paksong. A perfect spot for rest and relaxation if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, the resort offers spotless private villas with helpful staff who can guide you on what to see, do and eat in the area. The restaurant serves traditional Lao fare made from fresh local ingredients. 020 2866 2809, waterfalletupaksong.com.

– Mid range. The first multistorey building constructed under the supervision of the last King of Southern Laos, this hotel was originally the entertainment hub of Pakse housing a casino and cinema. Now owned and run by a French-Lao couple the hotel blends local influences with French Indochina spirit with cosy rooms and excellent service. Street 5, Ban Watkouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.com. Open 24 hours.

• PAKSE HOTEL

– Mid range. Two chalets nestled amongst of the famous Sinouk Coffee plantation and manicured gardens. Guests have the choice to stay alongside a bubbling river and small waterfall at Chalet I or closer to the plantation in Chalet II, each bungalow contains spotless private ensuite bedrooms and a shared lounge and living room and terrace but it’s so peaceful here you’d barely know you had any neighbours. Tatheng – Bolaven Plateau, sinouk@laopdr.com, sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

• SINOUK COFFEE RESORT

| Sinouk Coffee Resort |

SAVANNAKHET – Mid range. Housed in a renovated 1920s colonial building Sala Savanh sits pretty in the heart of Savannakhet historical centre. Five superior rooms are neat and tidy with high ceilings, vintage-look cane furniture and spacious balconies on the upper floor. Free WiFi. 020 5564 5111, salalao@ laotel.com, salalao.com/Salalao/Content/Savanh.htm.

• SALA SAVANH

• LEENA GUESTHOUSE – Mid range. A friendly

option if you’re passing through Savannakhet, Leena’s is a little off the main drag but you can rent a bike for a quick ride. There’s a variety of tidy rooms on offer for different price ranges so ask to take a look at what’s available to find one that’s right for you and your travelling budget, service is super friendly so they will be happy to help. Close to a number of cheap eats, internet cafes and the Mekong River. Free WiFi. Chaokeem Road, 020 9927 4994, leenaguesthouse.blogspot.com.

MAP OF VIENTIANE

VIENTIANE As the nation's capital, Vientiane is a must-experience city when traveling through Laos. Vientiane became the capital in 1563 because of fears surrounding Burmese invasion. Under French rule, it became the administrative capital and in recent times the city has emerged as the country's economic hub. Sitting on the northern banks of the Mekong river, the city has a colourful culture, amazing hospitality and is home to an enviable local and international dining scene. With its French colonial characteristics and leafy boulevards surrounded by rustic temples and coconut palms, this is a city that mixes colonial architecture with a tropical environment. The laidback atmosphere is ideal for visitors, and it is rapidly becoming one of the most fascinating cities to see in Asia.