Sabaidee - Lao lifestyle & travel magazine issue 21 by Sabaidee Magazine

WORTH MORE THAN

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Greetings readers!

ສະບາຍດີທ່ານຜູ້ອ່ານ!

We hope you liked our September issue last month. Maybe you’ve tried the adventurous Thakhek Loop motorbike trip for yourself by now, or travelled to Nong Khiaw in the country’s mountainous north!

ພວກເຮົ າ ຫວັງ ວ່າ ທ່າ ນຈະມັກ ວາລະສານສະບັບ ເດື ອ ນ ກັນ ຍາທີ່ຜ່າ ນມາຂອງພວກເຮົ າ . ບາງເທື່ອ ທ່າ ນອາດ ຈະໄດ້ທົດ ລອງຂີ່ລົດ ຈັກ ຜະຈົນ ໄພໄປຕາມເສັ້ນ ທາງທ່າ ແຂກດ້ວ ຍຕົນ ເອງແລ້ວ ກໍ່ເ ປັ ນ ໄດ້ ຫຼື ບໍ່ກໍ່ໄ ດ້ເ ດີ ນ ທາງໄປ ໜອງຂຽວຢູ່ທາງພາກເໜືອຂອງລາວ ທີ່ເຕັມໄປດ້ວຍພູຜາ ປ່າໄມ້ອັນຂຽວງາມ.

In this issue's cover feature we guide you through one of the biggest events on Laos' cultural calendar -- the Luang Prabang Film Festival. We tell you what to expect when Southeast Asia's best filmmakers descend on the old royal capital next month.

ເ ລື່ອ ງ ເ ດັ່ນ ຈ າ ກ ປົກ ໃ ນ ສ ະ ບັບ ນີ້ ພ ວ ກ ເ ຮົ າ ຈ ະ ນຳ� ພາທ່ານ ໄປສູ່ເທດສະການ ຮູບເງົາຫຼວງພະບາງ ເຊິ່ງເປັນ ຫນຶ່ງ ໃນເທດສະການ ທາງດ້າ ນສິ ລ ະປະວັດ ທະນະທຳ� ທີ່ໃຫຍ່ທີ່ສຸດໃນລາວ. ພວກເຮົາຈະໄດ້ນຳ�ສະເຫນີ ກ່ຽວກັບ ເທດສະການດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວ ເຊິ່ງ ຈະມີ ບັນ ດາຜູ້ຜ ະລິ ດ ຮູ ບ ເງົ າ ໃນທົ່ວ ພາກພື້ນ ອາຊີ ຕ າເວັ ນ ອອກສ່ຽ ງໃຕ້ ເດີ ນ ທາງມາ ເມືອງຫຼວງພະບາງ ໃນເດືອນທັນວານີ້.

This month we launch a brand new Sabaidee segment called Sabaidee Cooks. For our first month, an expert cook guides us through the many varieties of the famous Lao national dish: laap. In the Spotlight On section we travel up the mighty Mekong – once a serious freight route – on a cruise ship, passing secluded fishing villages along the way. Then we explore the delightful and incredibly photogenic Vietnamese city of Hoi An in our regional travel section, ASEAN Connect. We’ve also tracked down some of Vientiane’s more niche cuisines for this month’s Sabaidee’s Guide To section. Dutch, Filipino, Turkish and Indonesian food in Vientiane? We show you where to find it! Find Sabaidee Magazine in your favourite cafes, restaurants, hotels and spas from the 15th of every month. Got suggestions, comments or an event you’d like to see featured? Email our editor on editor@sabaideemagazine.com. Enjoy the issue!

Phanhlakhone Syboonheung The Director

ໃນເດື ອ ນນີ້ ພວກເຮົ າ ໄດ້ເ ປີ ດ ຕົວ ພາກສ່ວ ນໃໝ່ຂ ອງ ວາລະສານ ກໍ່ຄື ແຕ່ງກິນກັບສະບາຍດີ (ສະບາຍດີ ຄຸກ). ສຳ�ລັບ ເດື ອ ນທຳ�ອິ ດ ນີ້, ພວກເຮົ າ ມີ ແ ມ່ຄົວ ຊ່ຽ ວຊານ ພາ ເຮົ າ ແຕ່ງ ອາຫານປະຈຳ�ຊາດທີ່ຂຶ້ນ ຊື່ຂ ອງລາວ ກໍ່ຄື ລາບ ນັ້ນເອງ. ໃນພາກສະປ໋ອ ດໄລ້ອ ອນສະບັບ ນີ້, ພວກເຮົ າ ໄດ້ເດີ ນ ທາງລ່ອ ງເຮື ອ ຂຶ້ນ ໄປແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ ຜ່າ ນໝູ່ບ້າ ນຫາປາຕ່າ ງໆ, ເຊິ່ງ ເສັ້ນ ທາງນີ້ແ ຕ່ກ່ອ ນແມ່ນ ເປັ ນ ເສັ້ນ ທາງຂົນ ສົ່ງ ຫຼັກ . ຈາກນັ້ນ ເຮົາກໍ່ເດີນທາງໄປທ່ອງທ່ຽວເມືອງອັນສວຍສົດງົດງາມ ເປັນຕາໜ້າປະທັບໃຈຂອງຫວຽດນາມ ກໍ່ຄື ຮອຍ ອັນ ໃນພາກສ່ວນການທ່ອງທ່ຽວໃນພາກພື້ນ ກໍ່ຄືພາກເຊື່ອມໂຍງອາຊຽນ (ອາຊຽນ ຄອນເນັກ). ນອກຈາກນັ້ນ ໃນເດືອນນີ້ ພວກເຮົາຍັງໄດ້ພາທ່ານໄປຊອກຫາບັນດາອາຫານທີ່ບໍ່ຄ່ອຍມີຄົນຮູ້ ຈັກໃນວຽງຈັນ ໃນພາກຄູ່ມືສະບາຍດີ, ບໍ່ວ່າຈະເປັນອາຫານໂຮນລັງ, ຟິລິບປິນ, ຕວກກີ ແລະ ອິນໂດເນເຊຍ, ເຊິ່ງພວກເຮົາຈະພາທ່ານໄປເຖິງທີ່ເລີຍ! ທ່າ ນສາມາດຊອກຫາ ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດີ ໄດ້ຕ າມບັນ ດາຮ້າ ນກາເຟ, ຮ້າ ນອາຫານ, ໂຮງແຮມ ແລະ ສະປາຕ່າ ງໆ ຖ້າ ທ່າ ນມີ ຄ ວາມຄິ ດ ຄວາມເຫັ ນ , ຄຳ�ແນະນຳ�, ມີ ງ ານ ຫຼື ກິ ດ ຈະກຳ�ຕ່າ ງໆ ທີ່ຢ າກໃຫ້ພ ວກເຮົ າ ລົງ ໃນວາລະສານ ທ່າ ນກໍ່ສ າມາດສົ່ງ ອີ ເ ມລ ມາຫາບັນນາທິການຂອງພວກເຮົາໄດ້ທີ່ editor@sabaidee-magazine.com. ຂໍໃຫ້ທ່ານມ່ວນຊື່ນໄປກັບການອ່ານວາລະສານຂອງພວກເຮົາ!

ພັນລ ະຄອນ ສີບ ຸນເ ຮືອງ ຜອຳ�ນວຍການ ູ

THIS ISSUE

ON THE COVER Lights, Camera, Action - The Luang Prabang Film Festival

photo courtesy of the Luang Prabang Film Festival

NOVEMBER 2014

News & Events 10 14

What's On What's New

26 34 28

Travel 22 28

The Old Liquid Highway - Cruising the mighty Mekong Hoi An - White sands and languid charm

Lifestyle 26 34 41 42

Sabaidee Cooks - Laap COVER: Lights, Camera, Action -- Our guide to the Luang Prabang Film Festival EAT, DRINK, RELAX, SHOP, SEE & DO, SLEEP listings Eclectic Eats - Discovering the capital’s rare cuisines

CONTRIBUTORS JAMES ELTON-PYM

KRISTEN MARANO

On the cusp of finishing his journalism degree in Sydney, Australia, James decided to put off the inevitable and instead move to Laos, despite being too tall to fit through any of the country’s doorways, to work as a subeditor for the Vientiane Times newspaper. Now, he’s the editor of Sabaidee Magazine.

Kristen is currently travelling and working in the Asia Pacific. She's a freelance communications consultant working with entrepreneurs and startups, as well as a regular contributor to Huffington Post Canada where she writes about style and travel.

MICHELLE LUEHMAN

SHAYLING NGO

Michelle has spent the last 20 years living and working around the world, and most of that time has been spent around Asia. An avid observer of people and places, she has written extensively about life in Asia, both as a visitor and a resident. She has worked for lifestyle and travel magazines around the globe capturing the essence and flavour of life in each different locality.

A recent journalism graduate from Australia, Shayling relocated to Vientiane in order to pursue her dreams of writing and travelling. Intrigued by Southeast Asian cultures she hopes to share her adventures and experiences with the world, one word at a time.

JO LIDBETTER RACHEL ARBING Rachel Arbing is a primary school teacher who hails from the tiny Prince Edward Island in Canada. Last year she traded her fast-paced life in South Korea for a more laid-back one in Vientiane. Wherever she is, Rachel loves capturing the vibrancy of local people and places through the lens of her camera.

Jo has lived in Laos since 2006. She fell in love with the people, culture, food and the region in general when she lived in Thailand for a couple of years in the early 1990s and always knew that this area would one day be her home. Combining her passions for cooking, writing, teaching and photography led her to start running cooking courses. Her Facebook group ‘Cooking in Laos’ has ideas for recipes, tips on where to buy ingredients and details about her cooking courses. She also runs the ‘Tropical Cooking’ Facebook page.

WHERE WE ARE XAYABOURY

Home to the Land of Million Elephants’ highest pachyderm population. Each year in February creatures during the annual Elephant Festival.

LUANG PRABANG

Tranquil heritage-listed city boasting exquisite handicrafts, rich cultural sites steeped in history, a cosmopolitan bar scene and oodles of French colonial charm, all where the idyllic Nam Kahn and Mekong rivers meet. The perfect destination for the discerning traveller, the city is dotted with boutique hotels and spas.

SAVANNAKHET

Sitting on the banks of the Mekong, this growing city is the second-largest in Laos. The town centre houses ambient French Colonial architecture and small and friendly eateries are dotted along the riverfront. Just beyond the city

VANG VIENG

One-time party haven turned an outdoor enthusiasts dream, the small town is set to and lush forest. Nothing beats whiling a day away kayaking down the Nam Song river or taking a dip at the serene blue lagoon – utter relaxation in nature.

nearby Dong Natad Protected Area.

VIENTIANE

Increasingly modern bustling capital with a trailblazing dining scene that must be tasted to be believed. Here you’ll alongside Parisian-style boulangeries, glossy developments, a young emerging creative scene, and some of the country’s most lively marketplaces.

THAKHEK

A launching pad for the captivating Thakhek Loop. Throw your kit on a rented motorbike and set off on a 4-day journey to explore the hidden Buddha Cave, secluded water holes, tiny villages and, the main attraction, Kong Lor Cave which houses a snaking river system accessed only by motorboat.

PAKSE

The capital of the southern province of Champassak, Pakse is the gateway to the picturesque Bolaven Plateau which is home to an abundance of scenic waterfalls and motorcycle routes, and is widely regarded as producing some of the highest-quality coffee in the country.

WHO'S

[ ຄະນະທປ ່ີ ກ ຶ ສາ / Consultants ] ພດ ັ ທະລະພງົ ຄງົວຈ ິ ດ ິ Pattarapong Kongvijit / ວສ ິ ດ ິ ເຊາ ົ ວະລດ ິ ຕານນ ົ Wisith Chawalitanon / ມານະໄຊ ອນ ິ ແກວ ້ Manachai Inkaew / ສົມໃຈ ພິມຜາສຸກ Somjai Pimpasouk [ ຜູອຳນວຍການ / Director ] ພັນລະຄອນ ສີບຸນເຮືອງ Phanhlakhone Syboonheung [ ບັນນາທິການອຳນວຍການ / Editorial Director ] ເກດ ພິດທະຢາກອນສິນ Gaid Kornsilapa [ ບັນນາທິການບໍລິຫານ / Editor in Chief ] ຄຳສວນ ຈັນທະລາດ Khamsouan Chanthalat [ ບັນນາທິການ ພາສາອັງກິດ / English Editor ] ເຈມສ ເອລຕັນ-ພິມ James Elton-Pym [ ບັ ນ ນາທິ ກ ານອອນລາຍ / Online Editor ] ຂະນິ ດ ຖາ ອັ ດ ຕະເມດ Kanittha Attamate [ ຜອ ູ ຳນວຍການຝາ  ຍຂາຍ / Sales & Marketing Director ] ຊະຍາດາ ອະລຍ ິ ະພນ ົ ຈະເລນ ີ Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen [ ປະສານງານການຕະຫາ ຼ ດ / Marketing Co-ordinator ] ບນ ຸ ລອດ ສດ ິ ທພ ິ ງົ Bounlod Sittiphong [ ທມ ີ ງານຂາ່ວ / Reporter ] ເທບພະວງົສອນ ບວ ົ ພາ Thepphavongsone Bouapha [ ຈດ ັ ໜາ ແລະ ອອກແບບ / Layout Design ] ນດ ັ ນະລີ ມາທອງ Nutnaree Mathong / ທະນະວດ ັ ຄງົແສນຄຳ Thanawatt Khongseankhum / ວນ ັ ວລ ິ າດ ບນ ຸ ລດ ັ Wanvilart Boonyaratana [ ຫອ  ງການວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ / Sabaidee Magazine Sales Office THM Lao Co., Ltd. ] 265 Baan Nongbone, Xayxetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R [ ໂທ / ແຟກ ັ : / Tel / Fax ] +856 21 454782 / +856 21 454782 / Mobile: +856 20 5516 2440, +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 (Thai) [ ອເີມລ ບນ ັ ນາທກ ິ ານ / Editor Email ] editor@sabaidee-magazine.com [ ອເີມລ ຝາຍຂາຍ / Sales Email ] chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com [ ເຈາ້ົຂອງ ແລະ ຜຈ ູ້ ດ ັ ພມ ິ / Owner & Publisher ] ທີ ເອສ ັ ເອມ ັ ລາວ THM Lao www.sabaidee-magazine.com [ ພມ ິ ທ່ີ / Print by ] ໂຮງພມ ິ ລາວຍນ ູ ພ ິ ຮນ ິ ຈຳກດ ັ Lao Uniprint Press Co., Ltd

ONLINE EDITION ALSO AVAILABLE AT:

HM For more information visit www.sabaidee-magazine.com or simply scan the QR code

LAO

All material appearing in Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission to the copyright holder. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the view of the publisher of the magazine. Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

WHAT'S ON

ART.

CHARITY.

WARM CLOTHES DONATION DRIVE A MEMORY OF RUST

Throughout November, Lao Red Cross, Vientiane

Ongoing, i:cat gallery, Vientiane

Rust speaks to a past that is fading. Drawing on observations from the landscape and environment Helen’s images evoke a strong sense of place and time. Combining natural dyes, rust and printing techniques, she makes marks on fabrics.

Close to freezing temperatures are not fun, especially when you don’t have the warmth of a nice, thick blanket… or shoes for your feet. As the cold season approaches, the Lao Red Cross wants to make sure communities in the northern provinces are able to keep warm and stay healthy. You can help them beat the cold and warm some hearts by donating new or second hand blankets, clothing and shoes, and encouraging your friends and family to do the same. You can drop your donation at Lao Red Cross Headquarters, Setthathirath Avenue, Impass Xieng

The exhibition comprises textiles and an installation, and is open daily from

facebook.com/LaoRedCrossSociety.

based artist Helen Biles continues her residency in i:cat gallery’s upstairs studio, alongside her ongoing textiles exhibition A Memory of Rust.

more information contact i.catgallery@gmail.com or visit www.facebook.com/ icatgallery.

THE COLOURS OF MY HOMELAND Tuesday November 25, 6pm-8pm, i:cat gallery, Vientiane i:cat gallery welcomes its latest exhibition, The Colours Of My Homeland, a collection of paintings by Lao artist K. Hongsaopen in watercolour and oil paintings, and his attention to detail and original technique has seen him emerge as a prominent young Lao artist.

gmail.com or visit www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

SHOP.

HANDMADE ARTS AND CRAFTS FAIR Saturday November 22, 10am-3pm, Vientiane International School (VIS), Vientiane ket that aims to promote handmade art and craft products to the Vientiane community. This exciting fair will showcase handmade is an opportunity to experience and support the wealth creativity in Vientiane as well as meet local makers and artisans, and browse for Christmas gifts.

MINISTRY OF SILK SUMMER CLEARANCE

the canteen at Vientiane International School. Stallholder fees will be

Boutique fashion store Ministry of Silk is having an end of season sale to clear its summer collection and make room for new designs for autumn and winter. All items are 30% off from October 10 – November 30. Don’t

coffee, and snacks can be purchased from the school canteen on

Until November 30, Ministry of Silk, Vientiane

WHAT'S ON

SHOP. CHRISTMAS SHOPPING AT MA TÉ SAI November 14 to 23, i:cat gallery, Vientiane

sans across Laos, including exquisite decorative and wearable textiles, Christmas decorations, accessories, tableware, organic botanical products and handmade mementos. Ma Té Sai works with local artisans to develop and handpick items they personally love and that celebrate the craft involved in their creation. Many products may have been transformed to suit a modern environment, but all of them have been allow skills to be passed on to generations to come. Join the Ma Té Sai mailing list by visiting www.matesai.com.

SOCIAL. I-BEAM LADIES’ NIGHT, WEDNESDAYS Wednesdays, from 7pm, I-Beam, Vientiane continues every Wednesday with female customers enjoying 50% off all glasses of wine from 7pm onwards. African vintages, so there’s sure to be something for all tastes, and the delectable tapas menu makes for an facebook.com/ibeamvientiane.

CHANMALY LADIES’ NIGHT, THURSDAYS Thursdays, 5pm onwards, Chanmaly Café, Vientiane customers 50% off all wines and cocktails from 5pm each Thursday night. There are more reasons than ever to visit the café right now – fresh crops of imported cheeses and hams from Spain and Italy have recently tofu burger for vegetarians.

Riverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam Song

12 Khouvieng Rd, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR Phone: +856 21 26 4097 Fax: +856 21 26 3064 Email : info@greenparkvientiane.com www.greenparkvientiane.com

Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng Vientiane Province, Lao PDR Phone: +856 (0)23 511 726-8 Fax: +856 (0)23 511 729 Email: info@riversidevangvieng.com www.riversidevangvieng.com

Green Park Boutique Hotel - Elegance and Timeless Comfort in the Heart of Vientiane

WHAT'S NEW

TOYOTA Mekong football comp

LUXURY INDOCHINESE CRUISE

POND’S LAUNCHES NEW SKIN CREAM

WHAT'S NEW

HUAWEI TECH SUMMIT

KOREA TRAINS YOUNG LAO ARTISTS

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MY CITY

What better way to get to know a city than through those who live, work, and play in it? Sabaidee Magazine chats to a resident to get an insider’s guide to their locale.

ເ ປັ ນ ຜບ ູ້ ໍ ລິ ຫ າ ນ ພວ ົ ພນ ັ ກບ ັ ບນ ັ ຫ າ ດາ ້ ນ H I V / ເ ອ ດ ສ ແ ລ ະ ບນ ັ ຫາ

ເລາະກິນອາຫານແຊບໆ ຕາມຮາ ້ ນອາຫານຕາ ່ ງ ໆ ໃ ນ ເ ມື ອ ງ .

ລ າ ວ ອ າ ໄ ສ ຢໃ ູ່ ນ ວ ຽ ງ ຈນ ັ ເ ປັ ນ ເ ວ ລ າ ດນ ົ ນ າ ນ ແ ລວ ້ ສ ຄນ ັ

Nakhornphet Pasomsouk (Lae) is a project manager at the French Red Cross, working on issues surrounding HIV/ AIDS and the right to access healthcare services. A life-long Vientiane resident, he shares his tips on the best places in the capital to eat, drink, and most importantly, party!

ສາທາລະນະສກ ຸ , ໂດຍສະເພາະແມນ ່ ໃນບນ ັ ດາກມ ຸ່ ຄນ ົ ດອ ້ ຍ

Describe your ideal weekend in Vientiane: My project helps strengthen Lao civil society organisations so they can promote the right to access essential healthcare services, especially for vulnerable people and those living with HIV. I enjoy my work. it gives me exposure to lots of different kinds of people who have a similar interest in helping our community.

What’s your favourite thing about living in Vientiane? My favourite thing would be enjoying tasty food in all the different restaurants in town. I also love the many big events held in Vientiane throughout the year, such as boat racing and the That Luang festival.

What do you do on a Saturday night? Saturday night! When I think about to mind are friends and fun. I like going to parties or bars with my good friends. 18

ນ ໝຄ ູ່ ແ ູ່ ລວ ້ , ບາງ ນ ຄົນ ແລະ ເພີດເພີນໄປກບ ັ ທິວທດ ັ ທ ມະຊາດອນ ັ ສວຍງາມ

ຂອ ້ ຍ ມກ ັ ນດ ັ ພບ ົ ນດ ັ ລມ ົ ນ

My Vientiane What is your job like?

ທ ອິ ດ

Aside from partying and hanging out with friends, I sometimes sneak away with a few people to places outside town where you can enjoy beautiful scenery and great food. It’s a very relaxing way to spend the weekend.

ແລະ ເປນ ັ ເອກະລກ ັ ສະເພາະນ . ຖາ ້ ໃຜໄດມ ້ າຢຽ້ມຢາມລາວ

ນ ກັນ.

ສ ລບ ັ ຂອ ້ ຍ , ຄ ວ າ ມ ລບ ັ ຂອງວຽງຈນ ັ ແມນ ່ ຄວາມໃຈດີ ແລະ ຄວາມມີ ມ ະນຸ ດ ສ ພນ ັ ດີ ຂ ອ ງ ຄນ ົ ໃ ນ ເ ມື ອ ງ ວ ຽ ງ ຈນ ັ ແລະ ຂ ອ ງ ກ ະ ໂ ຕ ເ ມື ອ ງ ວ ຽ ງ ຈນ ັ ເອງນ

Best place to grab a coffee: I like to catch up and chat at either Common Grounds or The Little House. Both have fantastic coffee and tea.

Your favourite local eatery: My favorite places to eat out are Lao Kitchen and Makphet. They both serve really tasty, unique food. If you’re visiting Laos, you have to try one of these.

Where do you like to go out at night? My favourite bar is The Lao Café (commonly known as CCC Bar). I used to be a partner of this bar and it’s a great place where both foreigners and Lao people come to party together.

What, in your opinion, is Vientiane’s best-kept secret? For me, Vientiane’s best-kept secret is the kindness and friendliness of the local people, as well as the city itself. Vientiane may not super colourful or fancy but it’s full of sincerity and smiles. That’s why I say Vientiane is simply the best!

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Spotlight On

words & photos Michelle Luehman

The Old

Liquid Highway Fighting the current of the mighty Mekong in a cruise ship from Vientiane to Luang Prabang takes five days – a little longer than the one-hour flight! But the stunning views and fascinating lifestyles of the ethnic minorities that live on this majestic river are unlike anything you’ll see from the window seat of a jet. Sometimes, the old ways really are the best

ເສັ້ນ ທາງຫຼວງທາງນ້ຳ�ໃນສະໄໝກ່ອ ນ ການລ່ອງເຮືອຕ້ານກະແສແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງທີ່ໄຫຼແຮງ ຈາກວຽງຈັນຫາຫຼວງພະບາງ ແມ່ນໃຊ້ເວລາທັງໝົດ 5 ມື້ - ດົນ ກວ່າຖ້ຽວບິນໜຶ່ງຊົ່ວໂມງໜ້ອຍໜຶ່ງ! ແຕ່ຫາກວ່າທິວທັດອັນສວຍງາມ ພ້ອມການດຳ�ລົງຊີວິດອັນເປັນຕາໜ້າປະທັບໃຈ ຂອງກຸ່ມຊົນເຜົ່າຕ່າງໆ ທີ່ອາໄສຢູ່ເລາະລຽບຕາມແຄມແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງນີ້ ແມ່ນເປັນພາບທີ່ແຕກຕ່າງຫຼາຍ ເຊິ່ງທ່ານຈະບໍ່ສາມາດປະສົບພົບເຫັນໄດ້ ຜ່ານປ່ອງຢ້ຽມບ່ອນນັ່ງຢູ່ເທິງຍົນຢ່າງແນ່ນອນ.

ແມ່ຂອງ ຣີເວີ້ຄຣູສ (www.cruisemekong. com) ເປັນບໍລິສັດດຽວ ທີ່ພາທ່ານລ່ອງເຮືອ ລະຫວ່າງວຽງຈັນຫາຫຼວງພະບາງ. ທ່ານ ຈະລ່ອ ງເຮື ອ ໄປກັບ ຄວາມງຽບສະຫງົບ ຕາມລຳ�ແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ, ຜ່ານໝູ່ບ້ານນ້ອຍໆ, ເຮືອຫາປາ, ພ້ອມ ດື່ມ ດ່ຳ�ກັບ ທິ ວ ທັດ ແ ຄ ມ ແ ມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂ ອ ງ ອັນ ສວຍສົດງົດງາມໄປຕະຫຼອດທາງ. ການ ເ ດີ ນ ທ າ ງ ໂ ດ ຍ ເ ຮື ອ ໂ ຄ້ງ ໄ ປ ໂ ຄ້ງ ມ າ ນີ້ ໃຊ້ເວລາທັງໝົດ 5 ມື້ເຕັມ ກວ່າຈະຮອດ ຫຼວງພະບາງ. ຈາກວຽງຈັນ , ທ່າ ນເລີ່ມ ຂີ່ເ ຮື ອ ຂຶ້ນ ໄປຕາມລຳ�ແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ ຜ່າ ນ ແຂວງວຽງຈັນ , ໄປສູ່ແ ຂວງໄຊຍະບູ ລີ ແລະ ທ້າຍສຸດກໍ່ເຂົ້າສູ່ແຂວງຫຼວງພະບາງ. ເມື່ອທ່ານທ່ອງທ່ຽວຂຶ້ນໄປຕາມລຳ�ແມ່ນ້ຳ� ທ່ານຈະພົບເຫັນບ້ານເຮືອນຢູ່ເຂຊົນນະບົດ ອ້ອ ມຮອບບໍລິເ ວນນັ້ນ ເລີ່ມຈາກໝູ່ບ້າ ນ ຢູ່ບໍລິເວນຮາບພຽງ ຄ່ອຍໆກາຍເປັນບ້ານ ຢູ່ຕາມເນີນພູ, ແລະ ເມື່ອໃກ້ຊິຮອດຫຼວງ ພະບາງ ກໍ່ຈ ະພົບ ເຫັ ນ ບັນ ດາສັນ ພູ ແ ລະ ເຂົາອັນສູງຊັນ. ແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງອັນກວ້າງໃຫຍ່ໄພສານນີ້ເປັນ ສີແດງແຮງກ້າ ແລະ ຢູ່ຕາມທາງໂຄ້ງແຕ່ ລະບ່ອນ ກໍ່ຈະພົບກັບທິວ ທັດອັນໜ້າ ຕື່ນ ຕາຕື່ນໃຈ. ທ່ານຈະພົບກັບບັນດາເຮືອທີ່ ເດີ ນ ທາງເຂົ້າ -ອອກ ຢູ່ບໍ ລິ ເ ວນປາກນ້ຳ� ເປັ ນ ໄລຍະໆ ເຊິ່ງ ບັນ ດາເຮື ອ ດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວນີ້ ແມ່ນ ບັນ ຈຸ ຜູ້ຄົນ ແລະ ຜົນ ຜະລິ ດ ຕ່າ ງໆ

hough it was once a major thoroughfare, the stretch of the Mekong between Vientiane and the old capital of Luang Prabang is now seldom travelled.

Mekong River Cruises (www.cruisemekong.com) offers the only river cruise between these two cities. It’s a sleepy ride along the Mekong, with small villages, fishing boats and stunning river views to take in along the way. It takes five full days of gentle meandering to reach Luang Prabang by boat. From Vientiane, you follow the Mekong up through Vientiane province, into Xayaboury, and finally into Luang Prabang province.

The Old Liquid Highway

ເຖິ ງ ແມ່ນ ວ່າ ໃນສະໄໝກ່ອ ນ ເສັ້ນ ທາງ ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ ຈາກວຽງຈັນ ຫາເມືອງຫຼວງເກົ່າ ກໍ່ຄື ຫຼ ວງພະບາງ ຈະເປັ ນ ເສັ້ນ ທາງສາຍ ສຳ�ຄັນ , ແຕ່ໃ ນປັດ ຈຸ ບັນ ເສັ້ນ ທາງນີ້ ແມ່ນບໍ່ຄ່ອຍມີຄົນທ່ອງຄົນທຽວແລ້ວ.

As you travel upstream you watch the surrounding countryside move from flat lowlands to gentle rolling hills and, as you approach Luang Prabang, higher mountain ranges. The majestic river keeps its red colouring and each gentle curve brings another stunning vista. The occasional boat comes in and out of the many estuaries that feed the main river. The boats ferry people and produce, either to the rice plots further along the river, or to the different sites for gathering or harvesting naturally grown produce. We visited three villages on our cruise; all were isolated fishing villages. Visiting these little towns brings home the reality of Laos being among the poorest countries in the world. They are a far cry from the restaurants, hotels and tourist havens most of us visit. Every village had a mooring shack that doubled as a restaurant and pub as well as the loading bay for the village. As night falls the boats either moor where they are or drop off goods and passengers to the town before heading up a small estuary to anchor for the night. Ban Palard was our first stop. This sleepy Lao Lum village features a large monastery and temple. On the long main street, a clothing shop sits doing fairly little business. Large terracotta urns collect rainwater. The buildings are mostly woven rattan with occasional metal roofs.

Pak Lay, populated by the same ethnicity, is a local market town where people bring their fresh fruit, vegetables, and wares to sell each day. Towns along this part of the Mekong have a regular trade with Thailand and residents travel freely across the Mekong to trade. There is no proper border crossing. Each village is a day’s travel along the Mekong. Every evening people bathed and children swam at the water’s edge. The enormous boat makes a big impression and looks a little surreal in these surroundings – local villagers are drawn to the bank to look and marvel. The boat captains take this opportunity to ask about the current river conditions. On the third evening, we moored at the Khmu village of Ban Dan Sai Dnan, which had a central water station. The strong, ever-present current of the Mekong provides the water pressure. Here we visited the local school, a desolate timber building with dirt floors and a tin roof in the middle of field. Ramshackle, hand-sewn timber tables and chairs lay dormant over the summer break with a black board in each room. No cabinets, bookcases or shelves. Hot in summer, wet when it rained. A stark reminder of the struggle to provide education in these villages and what we take for granted. The next evening we stop just before the mighty Xayaboury hydropower dam. The sheer scale of this massive structure is an impressive sight. Once we are through the dam, it’s a short ride to the mooring site before a bus ride to the Kong Sai Waterfalls. Mekong River Cruises actively supports all of the villages they visit through various community projects. Donations can be made on-board.

ເພື່ອ ເດີ ນ ທາງໄປຫາທົ່ງ ນາຢູ່ຕ າມແຄມ ນ້ຳ�, ຫຼື ໄປຫາສະຖານທີ່ອື່ນ ໆເພື່ອ ເກັ ບ ກູ້ ແລະ ເກັບກ່ຽວບັນດາພືດ ພັນຕ່າງໆທີ່ ປູກຕາມທຳ�ມະຊາດ. ການເດີ ນ ທາງຂອງພວກເຮົ າ ໃນຄັ້ງ ນີ້ ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ແວ່ຢ້ຽມຢາມ 3 ໝູ່ ບ້ານ ເຊິ່ງ ເປັ ນ ໝູ່ບ້າ ນຫາປາທັງ ໝົດ . ແຕ່ລ ະບ້າ ນ ຈະມີ ທ່າ ຈອດເຮື ອ ເຊິ່ງ ເຮັ ດ ເປັ ນ ຮ້າ ນ ອາຫານ ແລະ ຮ້ານກິນດື່ມໄປໃນຕົວ ພ້ອມ ຍັງ ເປັ ນ ອ່າ ວບັນ ຈຸ ເ ຄື່ອ ງຂຶ້ນ -ລົງ ສຳ�ລັບ ທາງບ້າ ນນຳ�. ເມື່ອ ຕົກ ເດິ ກ ມາ ເຮື ອ ສ່ວ ນຫຼາຍກໍ່ຈ ະຈອດທຽບໄວ້ແ ຄມທ່າ ຫຼື ບໍ່ກໍ່ຂົນ ເຄື່ອ ງລົງ ແລະ ສົ່ງ ຜູ້ໂ ດຍສານ ລົງ ໃນເມື ອ ງ ກ່ອ ນທີ່ຈ ະເດີ ນ ທາງໄປ ປາກນ້ຳ�ນ້ອ ຍ ພື່ອ ຈອດເຮື ອ ທຽບທ່າ ໄວ້ ສຳ�ລັບຄ່ຳ�ຄືນດັ່ງກ່າວ. ບ້ານ ປາລາດ ເປັນບ້ານທຳ�ອິດທີ່ພວກເຮົາ ແວ່. ບ້າ ນດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວເປັ ນ ບ້າ ນລາວລຸ່ມ ອັນ ງຽບສະຫງົບ ເຊິ່ງປະກອບມີວັດວາອາຮາມ ຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່. ຢູ່ຕາມທາງໃຫຍ່ ກໍ່ມີຮ້ານ

ເສື້ອຜ້ານ້ອຍໆຕາມແຄມທາງ, ແລະມີ ອ່າງດິນເຜົາ ຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່ໄວ້ເກັບນ້ຳ� ຝົນ . ອາຄານຢູ່ນີ້ ສ່ວ ນຫຼາຍແມ່ນ ມຸ ງ ແຕະໄມ້ເຮ້ຍ ແລະ ບາງບ່ອນກໍ່ມຫຼ ີ ັງຄາ ສັງກະສີ. ບ້ານປາກລາຍ ເປັນບ້ານຊົນເຜົ່າລາວລຸ່ມ ເຊັ່ນດຽວກັນ, ເປັນຕະຫຼາດສຳ�ລັບທ້ອ ງຖິ່ນ ອ້ອ ມແອ້ມ ບໍ ລິ ເ ວນດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວ ເຊິ່ງ ປະຊາຊົນ ໄດ້ພ າກັນ ນຳ�ໝາກໄມ້ສົດ , ຜັກ, ແລະສິນຄ້າຕ່າງໆມາຂາຍໃນແຕ່ ລະມື້. ບັນ ດາເມື ອ ງຕ່າ ງໆຢູ່ບໍ ລິ ເ ວນນີ້ ແມ່ນມີການຄ້າຂາຍຢ່າງສະໝ່ຳ�ສະເໝີ ກັບທາງໄທ ເຊິ່ງຈະພົບເຫັນປະຊາຊົນ ເດີນທາງຂ້າມນ້ຳ�ຂອງໄປ-ມາ ເພື່ອຄ້າ ຂາຍ ຢ່າງສະດວກສະບາຍ ແລະ ຢູ່ບໍລິເວນ ດັ່ງກ່າວກໍ່ບໍ່ມີຂີດໝາຍຊາຍແດນນຳ�. ການເດີນທາງຕາມແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ ແມ່ນແວ່ ໄປຕາມແຕ່ລະບ້ານໃນແຕ່ລະມື້.ເມື່ອຄ້ອຍ ແລງມາ ກໍ່ຈະພົບເຫັນປະຊາຊົນ ແລະ ເດັກນ້ອຍ ລົງມາອາບນ້ຳ� ແລະ ລອຍນ້ຳ� ຫຼິ້ນຢູ່ແຄມທ່າ. ເຮືອຂະໜາດໃຫຍ່ຂອງ ພວກເຮົາ ຂ້ອນຂ້າງໂດດເດັ່ນ ແລະ ເບິ່ງຄື ວ່າ ເກີ ນ ຈິ ງ ເມື່ອ ມາຢູ່ໃ ນບັນ ຍາກາດ ດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວນີ້ ໂດຍປະຊາຊົນ ໄທບ້າ ນນັ້ນ ກໍ່ພາກັນແນມເບິ່ງຢ່າງແປກໃຈ. ກັບຕັນ ເຮື ອ ຂອງພວກເຮົ າ ກໍ່ເ ລີ ຍ ຖື ໂ ອກາດ ດັ່ງກ່າວ ສອບຖາມປະຊາຊົນ ກ່ຽວກັບ ສະພາບກະແສນ້ຳ�ໃນມື້ນັ້ນໆ. ໃນຕອນແລງມື້ທີ 3, ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ຈອດ ແວ່ຢູ່ໝູ່ບ້ານຂະມຸ ກໍ່ຄື ບ້ານແດນຊາຍ ດ່າ ນເຊິ່ງ ມີ ສ ະຖານີ ສູ ນ ກາງທາງນ້ຳ�. ກະແສນ້ຳ�ທີ່ໄ ຫຼແຮງຂອງແມ່ນ້ຳ�ຂອງ ໄດ້ກໍ່ໃຫ້ເກີດແຮງດັນນ້ຳ�ດັ່ງກ່າວ.

ຢູ່ນີ້ ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ໄປຢ້ຽມຢາມໂຮງຮຽນ ພາຍໃນບ້ານ ເຊິ່ງເປັນອາຄານໄມ້ຮ້າງ ຕັ້ງຢູ່ໂດດດ່ຽວ ກັບພື້ນດິນເປື້ອນໆ ແລະ ຫຼັງ ຄາສັງ ກະສີ ຕັ້ງ ຢູ່ກ າງເດີ່ນ . ໂຕະຕັ່ງ ເປັນໄມ້ອັດ ຄອນໆ ຕາບ ດ້ວ ຍມື ຕັ້ງຢູ່ຢ່າງງຽບສະຫງົບ ເນື່ອງຈາກ ເປັນ ໄລຍະພັກແລ້ງ, ແລະ ກໍ່ມີກະດານດຳ� ຢູ່ໃນແຕ່ລະຫ້ອງ. ໂຮງຮຽນຢູ່ນີ້ ບໍ່ມຕ ີ ູ້ປຶ້ມ, ລີ້ນ ຊັກ ເກັ ບ ເຄື່ອ ງ ຫຼື ຖ້າ ນໄວ້ເ ຄື່ອ ງ ໃດໆເລີຍ. ແລງມື້ຕໍ່ມາ ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ພັກເຊົາຢູ່ ບ່ອນ ທີ່ໃກ້ໆຈະຮອດເຂື່ອນໄຟຟ້າໄຊຍະບູລ.ີ ຂະໜາດອັນ ສູ ງ ຊັນ ຂອງໂຄງສ້າ ງອັນ ໃຫຍ່ຫຼວງນີ້ ແມ່ນເປັນພາບອັນເປັນຕາ ໜ້າປະທັບໃຈຫຼາຍ. ເມື່ອກາຍເຂື່ອນມາ ແລ້ວ, ຂີ່ເຮືອມາໜ້ອຍໜຶ່ງ ກໍ່ຈະມາຮອດ ທ່າຈອດເຮືອ ກ່ອນທີ່ຈະທີ່ລົດເມໄປຫາ ຕາດກວາງຊີ. ແມ່ຂອງ ຣີເວີ້ຄຣູສ ໄດ້ໃຫ້ ກ າ ນ ສ ະ ໜັບ ສ ະ ໜູ ນ ບັນ ດ າ ໝູ່ບ້າ ນ ທັງໝົດທີ່ພວກເຮົາໄປຢ້ຽມຢາມ ຢູ່ຢ່າງ ສະໝ່ຳ�ສະເໝີ ຜ່າ ນໂຄງການຊຸ ມ ຊົນ ຕ່າ ງໆ. ທ່າ ນສາມາດບໍ ລິ ຈ າກໄດ້ນຳ� ທາງເຮືອເລີຍ.

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Sabaidee Cooks

words and photos Jo Lidbetter

L aap

Chicken, pork, fish, tofu or mushroom Welcome to a brand new Sabaidee Magazine series: Sabaidee Cooks! Each week our expert cook Jo Lidbetter will show us the tricks to creating both traditional Lao dishes and some favourites from abroad. Jo specialises in creative modifications to recipes that allow some ingredients to be swapped for others – so tourists should be able to make these even when they get back home! Words & photos Jo Lidbetter

Jo Lidbetter is admin of the popular ‘Cooking in Laos’ Facebook page (www.facebook.com/groups/323192264489447), which you can follow for more recipes! ໂຈ ລິດເບັດເຕີ້ ເປັນຜູ້ບໍລິຫານຂອງກຸ່ມເຟສບຸກ ‘Cooking in Laos’ ທີ່ມີຊື່ສຽງ (www.facebook.com/groups/323192264489447), ເຊິ່ງທ່ານສາມາດເຂົ້າໄປຕິດຕາມ ເບິ່ງສູດອາຫານເພີ່ມເຕີມໄດ້.

One of the joys of living in Vientiane is the food. From the Lao food, low in fat and crammed with herbs, chillies, garlic and fish flavours, to the amazing food we’ve acquired from our Asian neighbours, and to the nod back to colonial times, both in terms of the bread which is available around the country and the plethora of amazing restaurants. We are truly spoilt for choice. With an abundance of affordable fresh fruit and vegetables, and more and more shops selling products previously hard to find here, it is becoming easier to cook these dishes ourselves. With some basic knowledge, we can recreate Lao dishes around the world and cook our favourite western dishes here.

Method

aap is the national dish of Laos. No Lao repertoire is complete without this classic spicy chopped meat and mint dish. It is traditionally made with chicken, pork or fish, but one of the joys of cooking it ourselves is the freedom to try alternatives. Tofu and mushrooms both work well for a vegetarian version. Nam pha (Thai fish sauce) is a traditional substitute for baa dek, the fermented fish ubiquitous in Lao cooking. If this doesn’t work for you, substitute soy sauce. This will give you the same saltiness without the fishiness. Add the chillies slowly, tasting as you go to get the perfect balance of spiciness for your palate. Most Lao folk will enjoy it served with far more spice than the average Westerner. Of course, if you are making this in the West, it may be difficult to get your hands on a banana flower. In this case, a savoy cabbage will work fine. Laap does normally contain mono-sodium glutamate but you can skip it if you prefer. We made chicken laap (laap gai) the traditional Lao way.

Cut open the chicken and slice the kidneys, heart and liver into strips around 5mm wide. Remove the skin from the chicken and cut this into similar strips. Fry this. You won’t need oil as the chicken fat will provide plenty. Add the garlic and a teaspoon of MSG. Cook for around five minutes until the chicken is cooked and the garlic is soft, then take off the heat. Put about a litre of drinking water in a bowl and add a dozen mint leaves, the juice of half a lemon (and the squeezed fruit), and the banana flower (preferably the yellow one as this has a delicious nutty flavour. The red one is bitterer). Leave this to soak while you prepare the rest of the laap.

Ingredients You will need:

• a whole chicken, • a couple of cloves of garlic, • a teaspoon of mono sodium glutamate, • some fermented fish (baa dek), • a generous handful of mint leaves, separated from the stems, • ten chillies and a spoonful of dried red chilli powder, • a small handful of coriander, attached to the stems, and chopped • a banana flower, sliced finely, • ten spring onions, five finely chopped, five left uncut, • two large limes, • a cucumber, • some baby aubergines (eggplants).

Next, put a cup of baa dek (fermented fish) into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Boil for around 3 – 5 minutes to increase the flavour. If you are using a substitute, you can skip this step. Squeeze the water out of the banana flower mix. Chop it and add it to the meat, together with the juice of one more lemon. Add a heaped tablespoon of dry fried rice powder to the mix. Strain and add a couple of spoons of the cooked baa dek, the chilli powder, five chopped up birds eye chillies, a handful of unchopped mint, the spring onions and the coriander. Stir this and serve with raw baby aubergine, peeled and sliced cucumber, the rest of the spring onions, the chilli peppers and, of course, some sticky rice.

ສ່ວນປະສົມ:

ທ່ານຕ້ອງການ: • ໄກ່ໜຶ່ງໂຕ • ກະທຽມ 2-3 ກີບ • ແປ້ງນົວ 1 ບ່ວງກາເຟ • ປາແດກ • ຫອມລາບຫຼາຍກຳ�, ເດັດອອກຈາກກ້ານ • ໝາກເຜັດ 10 ໜ່ວຍ ແລະ ໝາກເຜັດປົ່ນ 1 ບ່ວງ • ຫອມປ້ອມກຳ�ໜຶ່ງ,

ຊອຍໃສ່ພ້ອມກ້ານເລີຍ • ໝາກປີ, ຊອຍບາງໆ • ຫອມບົ່ວ 10 ຫົວ, 5 ຫົວຊອຍບາງໆ, ອີກ 5 ຫົວບໍ່ຊອຍ • ໝາກນາວ 2 ໜ່ວຍ • ໝາກແຕງໜ່ວຍໜຶ່ງ • ໝາກເຂືອຈຳ�ນວນໜຶ່ງ

You can buy rice powder at the market, but if you wish to make it yourself, fry a handful of uncooked rice in an otherwise empty pan and stir it while it browns, taking care not to let it burn. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Remove any burnt bits and pound to a powder with a pestle and mortar. ທ່ານສາມາດຊື້ເຂົ້າຂົ້ວ ໄດ້ຢູ່ຕະຫຼາດ, ແຕ່ຖ້າທ່ານ ຢາກເຮັດເຂົ້າຂົ້ວເອງ ກໍ່ພຽງແຕ່ນຳ�ເອົາເຂົ້າສານ ມາຂົ້ວໃສ່ໝໍ້ ແລ້ວຄ່ອຍໆ ຄົນຈົນເຂົ້າ ກາຍເປັນສີນ້ຳ�ຕານ ແລະ ລະວັງບໍ່ໃຫ້ເຂົ້າໄໝ້. ມອດໄຟ ແລະ ປະໃຫ້ມັນເຢັນ ກ່ອນ. ໄຈ້ເອົາເຂົ້າທີ່ໄໝ້ອອກ ແລະ ກໍ່ນຳ�ເຂົ້າທີ່ຂົ້ວແລ້ວ ໄປຕຳ�ໃສ່ຄົກ.

ແຕ່ງກິນກັບສະບາຍດີ: ຂໍຕ້ອນຮັບບັນດາທ່ານເຂົ້າສູ່ພາກສ່ວນໃໝ່ຂອງ ວາລະສານສະບາຍດີ ກໍ່ຄື ແຕ່ງກິນກັບສະບາຍດີ! ແຕ່ລະອາທິດ ແມ່ຄົວຜູ້ຊ່ຽວຊານ ໂຈ ລິດເບັດເຕີ້ ຈະໃຫ້ຄຳ� ແນະນຳ�ກ່ຽວກັບການເຮັດອາຫານ ທັງອາຫານພື້ນເມືອງລາວ ແລະ ອາຫານຕ່າງປະເທດ. ໂຈ ຊ່ຽວຊານໃນການເຮັດອາຫານ ທີ່ສາມາດດັດແປງ ສ່ວນປະສົມໄປຈາກເມນູດັ້ງເດີມໄດ້ ຈຶ່ງເຮັດໃຫ້ ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວສາມາດເຮັດອາຫານດັ່ງກ່າວໄດ້ ເຖິງວ່າຈະ ກັບໄປບ້ານເກີດເມືອງນອນແລ້ວກໍ່ຕາມ. ບົດຄວາມ ແລະ ຮູບພາບໂດຍ ໂຈ ລິດເບັດເຕີ້

ລາບ

ໄກ່, ໝູ, ປາ, ເຕົາຮູ້ ຫຼື ເຫັດ

ສິ່ງໜຶ່ງທີ່ເ ຮັ ດ ໃຫ້ມີ ຄວາມສຸ ກໃນການອາໄສຢູໃ່ ນ ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ກໍ່ແມ່ນຍ້ອນອາຫານນີ້ເອງ. ວຽງຈັນ ເຕັ ມ ໄປດ້ວ ຍອາຫານອັນ ຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ບໍ່ວ່າ ຈະເປັ ນ ອາຫານລາວທີ່ມີ ໄ ຂມັນ ຕ່ຳ�ແລະມີ ສ່ວນປະສົມສະໝຸນໄພຕ່າງໆ ພ້ອມ ໝາກເຜັດ, ກະທຽມ ແລະ ລົດຊາດປາ, ໄປຈົນຮອດອາຫານ ແຊບໆຈາກປະເທດເພື່ອນບ້ານໃນອາຊຽນ, ພ້ອມ ຫວນຄືນໄປຮອດສະໄໝລ່າເມືອງຂຶ້ນ ເຊິ່ງມີເຂົ້າຈີ່ ແຊບໆຢູ່ທົ່ວປະເທດ ແລະ ຮ້ານອາຫານທີ່ເກີດຂຶ້ນ ເປັນຈຳ�ນວນຫຼວງຫຼາຍ. ພວກເຮົາມີ ໃຫ້ ເລືອກຢ່າງ ຫຼາກຫຼາຍຈົນນັບບໍ່ຖ້ວນເລີຍກໍ່ວ່າໄດ້. ບັນດາຜັກ ແລະ ໝາກໄມ້ສົດໃນວຽງຈັນແມ່ນມີ ລາຄາຖືກ, ແລະ ປັດຈຸບັນກໍ່ມຮ ີ ້ານຫຼາຍໆຮ້ານເກີດ ຂຶ້ນ ເຊິ່ງ ຂາຍ ເຄື່ອ ງທີ່ຫ າໄດ້ຍ າກໃນເມື່ອ ກ່ອ ນ, ຈຶ່ງເຮັດໃຫ້ ພວກເຮົາສາມາດ ແຕ່ງອາຫານກິນເອງ ໄດ້ ງ່າຍຂຶ້ນນຳ�. ພຽງແຕ່ທ່ານມີຄວາມຮູ້ພື້ນຖານ ໜ້ອຍໜຶ່ງ, ທ່ານກໍ່ຈະສາມາດແຕ່ງອາຫານລາວ ໄດ້ຈ າກທຸ ກ ໆບ່ອ ນໃນໂລກ ແລະ ສາມາດແຕ່ງ ອາຫານຕ່າງປະເທດທີ່ເຮົາມັກ ຢູ່ລາວໄດ້ນຳ�ອີກ.

ວິທີເຮັດ

ຜ່າໂຕໄກ່ອອກ ແລະ ຊອຍໄຕ, ຫົວໃຈ ແລະ ຕັບອອກເປັນເສັ້ນ ບາງໆ ກວ້າງປະມານ 5ມມ. ລອກໜັງອອກຈາກໂຕໄກ່ ແລະ ຊອຍເປັນເສັ້ນບາງໆເຊັ່ນກັນ. ນຳ�ທຸກຢ່າງນີ້ໄປຂົ້ວ - ທ່ານບໍ່ຈໍາເປັນ ຕ້ອ ງໃສ່ນໍ້າມັນ ເນື່ອ ງຈາກໜັງ ໄກ່ແ ມ່ນ ມີ ຄ ວາມມັນ ຫຼາຍແລ້ວ . ໃສ່ກະທຽມ ແລະ ແປ້ງນົວລົງໄປ 1 ບ່ວງກາເຟ. ຂົ້ວປະມານ 5 ນາທີ ຈົນໄກ່ສຸກ ແລະ ຈົນກະທຽມອ່ອນ ແລ້ວກໍ່ມອດໄຟ. ເອົ າ ນ້ຳ�ດື່ມ ປະມານລິ ດ ໜຶ່ງ ໃສ່ໃ ນຖ້ວ ຍ ແລະ ໃສ່ໃ ບຫອມລາບ ຈຳ�ນວນຫຼາຍ ພ້ອມບີບໝາກນາວໃສ່ເຄິ່ງໜ່ວຍ ແລະ ໃສ່ໝາກປີ (ເອົາໝາກປີອ່ອນ ເນື່ອງຈາກວ່າມັນຈະມີລົດຊາດມັນ.ສ່ວນໝາກປີ ແກ່ຈ ະຂ້ອ ນຂ້າ ງຂົມ ). ແຊ່ຜັກ ດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວໄວ້ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ທ່າ ນ ກະກຽມສ່ວນປະສົມທີ່ເຫຼືອຂອງລາບ. ຕໍ່ໄ ປ ໃຫ້ທ່າ ນເອົ າ ປາແດກຖ້ວ ຍນ້ອ ຍໜຶ່ງ ລົງ ໃສ່ໝໍ້ ແລ້ວ ຕົ້ມ ປະມານ 3-5 ນາທີ ເພື່ອເຮັດໃຫ້ລົດຊາດເຂັ້ມຂົ້ນຂຶ້ນກວ່າເກົ່າ. ຖ້າທ່ານໃຊ້ສ່ວນປະສົມອື່ນແທນ ກໍ່ໃຫ້ຂ້າມຂັ້ນຕອນນີ້ໄປ. ບີບນ້ຳ�ອອກຈາກໝາກປີ. ຊອຍໝາກປີແລ້ວເອົາໃສ່ນຳ�ກັບກັບຊີ້ນ, ພ້ອມບີບໝາກນາວໃສ່ໜ່ວຍໜຶ່ງ. ໃສ່ເຂົ້າຂົ້ວ 1 ບ່ວງແກງເຕັມໆ ແລ້ວຄົນເຂົ້າກັນ. ຄັ້ນ ສ່ວ ນປະສົມ ຕ່າ ງໆ ແລ້ວ ກໍ່ໃ ສ່ປ າແດກສຸ ກ 2-3 ບ່ວ ງ, ໃສ່ໝາກເຜັດຜົງ, ໝາກເຜັດສົດຊອຍ 5 ໜ່ວຍ, ໃສ່ໃບຫອມລາບ ທີ່ຍັງ ບໍ່ທັນ ຊອຍ, ຜັກ ບົ່ວ , ແລະ ຫອມປ້ອ ມ. ຄົນ ສ່ວ ນປະສົມ ຕ່າງໆໃຫ້ເຂົ້າກັນ ແລ້ວເສີບກັບໝາກເຂືອດິບ, ໝາກແຕງຊອຍ, ຜັກບົ່ວທີ່ເຫຼືອ, ໝາຫເຜັດດິບ, ແລະ ແນ່ນອນ ທີ່ຂາດບໍ່ໄດ້ກໍ່ແມ່ນ ເຂົ້າໜຽວ.

ASEAN CONNECT

words & photos Kristen Marano

The white sands and languid charm of

H oi A n ຫາດຊາຍສີຂາວ ແລະ ມົນສະເໜ່ຂອງ ຮອຍ ອັນ

If you’re visiting the headline cities and sites in mist-veiled, mysterious Vietnam, it’s well worth making the trip to Hoi An. Nestled in the center of country, equidistant from old rivals Ha Noi in the north and Ho Chi Minh City in the south, the travel is a little bit tricky – but it’s exactly this that makes Hoi An’s stunning beaches and UNESCO-listed heritage town feel so laidback and authentic.

ຖ້າທ່ານໄດ້ມີໂອກາດໄປຢ້ຽມຢາມບັນດາເມືອງ ແລະ ສະຖານທີ່ທ່ອງທ່ຽວຕ່າງໆໃນຫວຽດນາມ ກໍ່ຢ່າລືມຖືໂອກາດໄປແວ່ຢ້ຽມຢາມ ຮອຍ ອັນ. ຮອຍ ອັນ ຕັ້ງຢູ່ໃຈກາງຂອງປະເທດ ລະຫວ່າງທາງເໜືອຂອງຮ່າໂນ້ຍ ແລະ ທາງໃຕ້ຂອງໂຮ່ຈິມິນ ເຊິ່ງອາດຈະເຮັດໃຫ້ການ ເດີນທາງໄປຍາກແດ່ ແຕ່ຖ້າໄດ້ໄປແລ້ວກໍ່ຖືວ່າຄຸ້ມຫຼາຍ. ຮອຍ ອັນ ຖືກຮອງຮັບເປັນເມືອງມໍລະດົກໂລກຈາກ ຢູເນສໂກ, ເປັນເມືອງທີ່ມີມົນສະເໜ່ອັນເປັນເອກະລັກ ແລະ ມີຫາດຊາຍອັນສວຍງາມຫຼາຍ. ບົດຄວາມ ແລະ ຮູບພາຍໂດຍ ຄຣິສເຕັນ ມາຣາໂນ

The promenade along the Thu Bon River is perfect for cycling.

nce a major trading hub in the 16th Century, Hoi An in Vietnam has become an international tourist destination famed for its rare combination of beautiful beaches and its endearing ancient town. As Hoi An struggles to preserve its history and adapt to growing tourism, it has retained an enduring charm thanks to its friendly people and French flare. If I were Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton would be my Hoi An – how long to stay, when to leave and when to return?

ໃນສະໄໝກ່ອນ ຮອຍ ອັນ ເຄີຍເປັນສູນກາງດ້ານການ ຄ້າຂອງຫວຽດນາມ, ແຕ່ໃນປັດຈຸບັນ ແມ່ນກາຍມາເປັນ ສະຖານທີ່ທ່ອ ງທ່ຽ ວທີ່ດຶ ງ ດູ ດ ນັກ ທ່ອ ງທ່ຽ ວຊາວຕ່າ ງ ປະເທດມາຢ່າງຫຼວງຫຼາຍ ເນື່ອງຈາກເມືອງດັ່ງກ່າວ ແມ່ນ ຂຶ້ນຊື່ດ້ານຫາດຊາຍທີ່ສວຍງາມ ແລະ ເມືອງເກົ່າແກ່ອັນ ເປັນເອກະລັກ ທີ່ບວ ໍ່ ່າໃຜໆກໍ່ຫຼົງຮັກ. ເມືອງຮອຍ ອັນ ເປັນເມືອງທີ່ມີມົນສະເໜ່ກັບຜູ້ຄົນທີ່ເປັນມິດ ພ້ອມມີກິ່ນ ອາຍຈາກສະໄໝຝຣັ່ງຫຼົງເຫຼືອຢູ່ນຳ�. A man napping outside a store in the ancient town.

White sands An Bang Beach is swarming with with sun-soaking tourists by day and sun-escaping locals by night. Visiting this creamy white stretch on the South China Sea, just a 10-minute bike ride from the city centre, reveals the starkly different lifestyles of the tourists and the locals. Hang around into the late afternoon to see how the residents of this quiet beach town really live. On my first visit to the beach I was a typical tourist, splayed out on a plastic lounge chair turning pink in the midday sun. The second time, I had learned my lesson. Late in the afternoon, I plunked down by the shore and cracked open a cold beer. This time locals inched in on my tiny towel as the sun sank lower and lower in the sky.

Sunset over An Bang Beach. 30

Locals arrived in droves under the cotton-candy sky and bounced in the waves. Food vendors sold street snacks like Vietnamese pancakes. I tried shrimp crackers topped with chili soy sauce. Immersing ourselves in a local experience also meant a challenge in spice tolerance – the strong sauce burned furiously at the back of my throat. Yellow streaks across the sky turned black and the lifeguard blew his whistle to end the evening. Chatterbox children ran to bathtub-like concrete basins to rinse off the salt. We ate a banh mi on a fresh baguette with pork and shredded carrots for 12,000 dong (US$0.6). We were the only foreign faces surrounded by lovely locals on scooters, the traffic resembling Bangkok in rush hour. Kids smiled and shouted xin chào (‘hello’ in Vietnamese). As we peddled away, tears rolled down my cheeks. I was falling for Hoi An.

ຫາດຊາຍສີຂາວ ຫາດ ອັນ ບ່າ ງ ແມ່ນ ເຕັ ມ ໄປດ້ວ ຍນັກ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ທີ່ມານອນຕາກແດດໃນຍາມ ມື້ເວັນ ແລະ ຄົນໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນທີ່ມາຫຼິ້ນໃນ ຍາມກາງຄື ນ . ຫາດຊາຍສີ ຂ າວຂອງ ທະເລຈີ ນ ໃຕ້ນີ້ ແມ່ນ ຂີ່ລົດ ຈັກ ອອກມາ ຈາກຕົວເມືອງປະມານ 10 ນາທີກໍ່ຮອດ. ມາຕອນສວາຍໆແດ່ ແລ້ວທ່ານຈະພົບ ເຫັ ນ ການດຳ�ລົງ ຊີ ວິ ດ ອັນ ງຽບສະຫງົບ ຂອງປະຊົນທີ່ອາໄສຢູ່ເມືອງແຄມທະເລ ແຫ່ງນີ້.

Locals swimming at An Bang Beach.

ໃນຕອນຕາເວັນຕົກດິນ, ບັນດາປະຊາຊົນ ທ້ອງຖິ່ນທີ່ອາໄສຢູ່ເຂດນັ້ນ ກໍ່ຈະພາກັນ ອອກຈາກບ້ານ ລົງມາລອຍນ້ຳ�ຢູ່ທະເລ. ຢູ່ຕ າມຫາດກໍ່ມີ ລໍ້ຂ າຍອາຫານຕ່າ ງໆ ເຊັ່ນບັນແຊ່ວເປັນຕົ້ນ. ຂ້ອຍໄດ້ລອງຊິມ ຂຽບກຸ້ງທອດ ຈ້ຳ�ກັບແຈ່ວສະອິວ ແລະ ໝາກເຜັດ.

ຄ້ອ ຍຄ່ຳ�ມາ ຍາມຢູ່ແ ຄມຝັ່ງ ກໍ່ເ ປົ່າ ໝາ ກຫວີດໃຫ້ທຸກໆຄົນຂຶ້ນຈາກນ້ຳ�, ແລະ ເດັ ກ ນ້ອ ຍກໍ່ພ າກັນ ລ້າ ງນ້ຳ�ທະເລອອກ ຢູ່ອ່າງເບຕົງ. ພວກເຮົ າ ພາກັນ ກິ ນ ເຂົ້າ ຈີ່ປ າເຕ້ ໃສ່ໝູ ແລະ ກະລົດຊອຍ ໃນລາຄາ 12000 ດົງ ($0.6). ພວກເຮົາເປັນຄົນຕ່າງປະເທດ ກຸ່ມດຽວຢູ່ຫັ້ນ ແລະ ນອກນັ້ນກໍ່ແມ່ນຄົນ ພາຍໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນໝົດທີ່ພາກັນຂີ່ລົດຈັກ ໄປ-ມາ. ການສັນຈອນຢູ່ນີ້ ຄ້າຍໆຄືກັນ ກັບບາງກອກ ຍາມໄປການ-ເລີກການ. ເດັກນ້ອຍໆ ພາກັນຍິ້ມຫົວ ແລະ ຮ້ອງ ໃສ່ພວກເຮົາວ່າ ຊິ່ນຈ່າວ (ສະບາຍດີ ໃນ ພາສາຫວຽດນາມ).

Boats along the Thu Bon River.

Cycling through the old town centre.

Ancient town Two boys sit at the river’s edge in the old town wearing bow ties and straw hats as tea lights illuminate their young, Vietnamese faces. Their parents have staged this scene to attract tourists, who are encouraged to snap photos and purchase a candle to float down the Thu Bon River. Nearby, tourists crowd the Japanese Bridge, lit by dragon lanterns, that spans the water to connect the town. Couples and younger travellers drink local brews at restaurants along the river for 4,000 dong per glass (US$0.2). Vendors grill corn and sift sugar over hot fresh donuts. Travellers on heartier budgets dine at Morning Glory and Tin Tin, well-known and popular restaurants both eating traditional dishes and learning to cook them. Walking through the old town is like wandering through a European city. Fuchsia flowers fall serenely over store awnings. Narrow passageways challenge cyclists and invite tourists to the waterfront of fish and fruit markets. Vendors sell locally made silk scarves, while tailors like the long-running Yaly (www.yalycouture. com) replicate the latest trends in just 24 hours. Foreign-owned boutiques like AvAna (www.hoiandesign.com) attract women seeking unique, quality clothing. The old town is easy to access and navigate. Tourists are supposedly

charged US$6 for entry to go towards the preservation of the UNESCO Word Heritage town, but I entered without being asked to pay.

Inside Yaly Couture, one of Hoi An’s longest running tailor shops

T h e re a re m a n y re s t a u r a n t s , homestays and hotels available, including the Sunshine Hotel (www. sunshinehotelhoian.com), where we stayed with a balcony, pool and complimentary breakfast for 560,000 dong per night (US$26). Many hotels offer a shuttle service from Da Nang Airport or the nearby bus station. Hoi An is not new to tourism, but the town has been able to limit commercial development. As we biked and walked around, men played soccer at the community field, kids walked home from school and locals enjoyed dinner in their homes. Hoi An holds a special place in my heart. I hope that I can return some day, and that when I do the town will have retained its charm, history and love for visitors. Getting there: Talk to a travel agent to arrange the marathon 30-hour bus trip from Vientiane to Hoi An. Alternatively, flights are available cheaply but with a few connections. First travel to Bangkok. Once you’re there, there are daily flights to Hoi An via Siem Reap, Ha Noi or Ho Chi Minh City with airlines including Bangkok Airways, VietJet Airlines and Thai Airways.

Speedy tailors Hoi An is a great place to get good, affordable, made-to-measure clothes. While neighbouring cities like Singapore have long been known for high-quality tailoring, Hoi An has developed a reputation with tourists for making decent pieces in about a day. Several tailors have shops in the city centre and the old town. Medium-quality fabrics such as cotton start at about 740,000 dong (US$35) for men’s dress shirts and trousers and women’s dresses and skirts.

ເມືອງບູຮານ ເດັກນ້ອຍຜູ້ຊາຍຫວຽດນາມສອງຄົນ ພາກັນນັ່ງ ຢູ່ແຄມນ້ຳ�ໃນເມືອງເກົ່າ ມີໂບມັດຢູ່ຄໍ ແລະ ມີໝວກ ກຸ໋ບຢູ່ເທິງຫົວ, ແລະ ແສງທຽນກໍ່ສ່ອງສະໄຫວໃສ່ ໃບໜ້າອັນໜຸ່ມນ້ອຍຂອງພວກເຂົາ. ສ່ວນພໍ່ແມ່ຂອງ ພວກເຂົາ ກໍ່ພວມຈັດສາກບໍລິເວນນັ້ນເພື່ອດຶງດູດ ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວ, ໃຫ້ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວເຂົ້າມາຖ່າຍຮູບ ແລະ ຊື້ທຽນ ເພື່ອໄຫຼທຽນໄປຕາມ ແມ່ນ້ຳ� ທູ ບົງ.

Fuchsia flowers and lanterns brighten many streets in the ancient town.

ຢູ່ບໍລິເວນໃກ້ໆກັນ ກໍ່ຈະພົບເຫັນນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວມາ ຊຸມນຸມກັນຢູ່ ຂົວຍີ່ປຸ່ນ ເຊິ່ງກ່າຍຂ້າມແມ່ນ້ຳ�ມາ ແລະ ເຊື່ອມເມືອງເຂົ້າຫາກັນ. ບັນດາໜຸ່ມສາວ ແລະ ນັກ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ພາກັນນັ່ງກິນເບຍທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ຢູ່ຮ້ານອາຫານ ຢູ່ຕາມແຄມນ້ຳ� ໃນລາຄາ 4000 ດົງຕໍ່ຈອກ ($0.2). ຕາມທາງກໍ່ມີລໍ້ຂາຍອາຫານຕ່າງໆເຊັ່ນ ປີ້ງສາລີ ແລະ ເຂົ້າໜົມໂດນັດຮ້ອນໆ. ສຳ�ລັບນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ທີ່ມີເງິນຫຼາຍແດ່ໜ້ອຍໜຶ່ງ ກໍ່ຈະມັກພາກັນກິນເຂົ້າ ທີ່ຮ້ານອາຫານ ທີ່ມີຊື່ສຽງໂດ່ງດັງ ກໍ່ຄືຮ້ານ ມໍນິ້ງ ກລໍຣີ້ ແລະ ຮ້ານ ຕິນ ຕິນ. ເມື່ອທ່ານຍ່າງຕາມເມືອງເກົ່າແຫ່ງນີ້ ທ່ານຈະຮູ້ສຶກ ປານກັບວ່າຍ່າງຢູ່ຕາມເມືອງໃນເອີຣົບເລີຍ. ທາງຍ່າງ ຈະເປັນທາງແຄບໆ ແລະ ພາທ່ານໄປຮອດຕະຫຼາດ ຂາຍປາ ແລະ ໝາກໄມ້ຢູ່ທ່ານ້ຳ�. ນອກນັ້ນ ກໍ່ມຫ ີ ້າງ ຮ້າ ນທີ່ຂ າຍຜ້າ ພັນ ຄໍ ໄ ໝ ທີ່ຜ ະລິ ດ ຢູ່ໃ ນທ້ອ ງຖິ່ນ ແລະ ກໍ່ມີຮ້ານຕັດເຄື່ອງທີ່ເປີດມາດົນ ຄືຮ້ານຢາລີ (www.yalycouture.com) ເຊິ່ງເພິ່ນສາມາດຕັດ ເຄື່ອງຮຽນແບບກະແສແຟຊັ້ນຫຼ້າສຸດໄດ້ ພາຍໃນ ເວລາພຽງ 24 ຊົ່ວໂມງ. ນອກນັ້ນ ກໍ່ມີຮ້ານບູຕິກ ຂອງຄົນຕ່າງປະເທດ ຄືຮ້ານ ອາວານາ (www. hoiandesign.com) ດຶ ງ ດູ ດ ແມ່ຍິ ງ ທີ່ຕ້ອ ງການ ເສື້ອຜ້າຄຸນະພາບດີ ແລະ ເປັນເອກະລັກ ແຕກຕ່າງ ຈາກບ່ອນອື່ນ.

ເມືອງເກົ່າແຫ່ງນີ້ ສາມາດເດີນທາງໄປມາໄດ້ງ່າຍ ແລະ ສະດວກສະບາຍ. ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວຈະຕ້ອງໄດ້ ຈ່າຍຄ່າເຂົ້າ 6 ໂດ່ລ້າ ເພື່ອເຂົ້າໄປບ່ອນອະນຸລັກ ຮັກສາ ເມືອງມໍລະດົກໂລກ ຈາກຢູເນສໂກ ແຫ່ງນີ້. ຢູ່ເມືອງນີ້ ມີຮ້ານອາຫານຫຼາຍແຫ່ງ ແລະ ມີທີ່ພັກ ອາໄສຫຼາຍໆບ່ອນ ລວມທັງ ໂຮງແຮມ ຊັນຊາຍ (www.sunshinehotelhoian.com) ເຊິ່ງພວກເຮົາ ເອງກໍ່ພັກ ຢູ່ນີ້, ມີ ສ ະລອຍນ້ຳ�, ມີ ລ ະບຽງ ແລະ ອາຫານ ເຊົ້າຟຣີ ໃນລາຄາ 560000 ດົງຕໍ່ຄນ ື ($26). ໂຮງແຮມຫຼາຍບ່ອ ນແມ່ນ ມີ ບໍ ລິ ກ ານລົດ ຮັບ -ສົ່ງ ໄປສະໜາມບິນດານັງ ຫຼື ສະຖານີລົດເມໃກ້ຄຽງ. ຕອນທີ່ພວກເຮົາຂີ່ລົດຖີບ ແລະ ຍ່າງເລາະຢູ່ໃນເມືອງ ເກົ່າ, ພວກເຮົາກໍ່ເຫັນກຸ່ມຜູ້ຊາຍພາກັນຫຼິ້ນເຕະບານ ຢູ່ເດີ່ນຂອງຊຸມຊົນ, ເຫັນເດັກນ້ອຍເລີກຮຽນແລ້ວ ກໍ່ຍ່າງເມືອບ້ານ, ແລະ ເຫັນປະຊາຊົນພາຍໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ ນັ່ງກິນເຂົ້າ ຢູ່ພາຍໃນບ້ານຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າ. ຮອຍ ອັນ ເປັນເມືອງອັນແສນພິເສດ ທີ່ຂ້ອຍຈະຈົດຈຳ� ໃນຫົວໃຈຂອງຂ້ອຍ. ຂ້ອຍຫວັງວ່າມື້ໜຶ່ງ ຂ້ອຍຈະໄດ້ ກັບ ມານີ້ອີ ກ , ແລະ ກໍ່ຫວັງ ວ່າ ເມື່ອ ຂ້ອ ຍກັບ ມາ, ເມືອງແຫ່ງນີ້ ຈະຍັງຄົງຄວາມເປັນເອກະລັກຄືເກົ່າ, ແລະ ຍັງຄົງເຕັມໄປດ້ວຍມົນສະເໜ່, ປະຫວັດສາດ ແລະ ຄວາມເປັນມິດແກ່ຜູ້ທີ່ມາຢ້ຽມຢາມຄືເກົ່າ. ການເດີນທາງ: ສອບຖາມກັບບໍລສ ິ ັດທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ເພື່ອ ເດີນທາງດ້ວຍລົດເມ ເຊິ່ງຈະໃຊ້ເວລາ 30 ຊົ່ວໂມງ ຈາກວຽງຈັນຫາຮອຍອັນ. ນອກນັ້ນ ກໍ່ມີຖ້ຽວບິນ ລາຄາບໍ່ແພງຫຼາຍ ແຕ່ຕ້ອງຕໍ່ຍົນຫຼາຍບ່ອນ. ທຳ�ອິດ ແມ່ນບິນໄປບາງກອກ, ແລະ ຈາກບາງກອກ ກໍ່ມີ ຍົນໄປຮອຍອັນທຸກໆມື້ ຜ່ານຊຽມຣຽບ, ຮ່າໂນ້ຍ ຫຼື ໂຮຈິມນ ິ ກັບສາຍການບິນຕ່າງໆເຊັ່ນ ບາງກອກ ແອເວ, ຫວຽດເຈັດ ແອລາຍ ແລະ ການບິນໄທ.

A vendor makes fresh sugar donuts

ຕັດເຄື່ອງດ່ວນ ຮອຍ ອັນ ເປັ ນ ບ່ອ ນທີ່ຂຶ້ນ ຊື່ໃ ນການຕັດ ເສື້ອ ຜ້າ ທີ່ມີ ຄຸ ນ ນະພາບດີ ແລະ ບໍ່ແ ພງຫຼາຍ. ໃນຂະນະທີ່ປ ະເທດ ເ ພື່ອ ນ ບ້າ ນ ສິ ງ ກ ະ ໂ ປ ແ ມ່ນ ຂຶ້ນ ຊື່ດ້າ ນ ກ າ ນ ຕັດ ເ ຄື່ອ ງ ຄຸ ນ ະພາບສູ ງ , ຮອຍ ອັນ ກໍ່ໄ ດ້ພັດ ທະນາຈົນ ກາຍມາ ເປັ ນ ບ່ອ ນທີ່ມີ ຊື່ສ ຽງໃນບັນ ດານັກ ທ່ອ ງທ່ຽ ວ ໃນການ ຕັດ ເຄື່ອ ງຄຸ ນ ະພາບດີ ໃ ນເວລາພຽງມື້ດ ຽວ. ທ່າ ນຈະ ພົບ ກັບ ຮ້າ ນຕັດ ເຄື່ອ ງຫຼາຍໆຮ້າ ນຢູ່ໃ ນເມື ອ ງ ແລະ ຢູ່ເ ຂດເມື ອ ງເກົ່າ . ສົລັບ ຜ້າ ແພຄຸ ນ ະພາບດີ ປ ານກາງ ເຊັ່ນ ຜ້າ ຝ້າ ຍ ລາຄາເລີ່ມ ຕົ້ນ ຈະຢູ່ປ ະມານ 740000 ດົງ ($35) ສຳ�ລັບເສື້ອ ແລະ ໂສ້ງໄປການຂອງຜູ້ຊາຍ, ແລະ ຊຸດກະໂປ່ງ ແລະ ກະໂປ່ງ ຂອງແມ່ຍິງ.

SABAIDEE COVER

Lights, Camera, ACTION..! Sabaideeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to

the Luang Prabang Film Festival December 6 - 10

Words Gabriel Kuperman Photos courtesy of the Luang Prabang Film Festival

Pull up a chair! The Luang Prabang Film Festival (LPFF) brings together the boldest storytellers and the mostand screen them in the spectacular world-

The LPFF is more than just an

exotic and exciting locations on the international

Vientiane in Love â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Laos

(Opening Film and World Premiere)

The Missing Picture – Cambodia

IloIlo – Singapore

Pee Mak Phrakanong – Thailand

Madam Phung’s Last Journey – Vietnam

them are transgender women who are poorly

balloons and darts and a shotgun aimed at

Full lineup Aroma of Heaven (Indonesia)

Catnip (Philippines)

Iskalawags (Philippines)

The Patriarch (Philippines)

Jalanan (Indonesia) The Talent (Vietnam) TukTuk (Laos) Vientiane in Love (Laos)

The SEA Movie Theatre Project

Short and sweet

For the full schedule and the latest information about the festival, check

The G oo d Gu i de

Sabaidee’s guide to the very best things to see, do, eat and drink in the country’s urban centres. This month we showcase some of Vientiane’s lesser-known cuisines. Dutch, Indonesian, Filipino and Turkish food in the capital? We We then get a taste of authentic barbecue Japanese at Sumibiyaki Torishige, along with our usual curated list of our favourite places around Laos in our EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP and SEE & DO listings.

SABAIDEE'S GUIDE TO

words & photos Shayling Ngo

ECLECTIC EATS SABAIDEE MAGAZINE VENTURES OFF THE BEATEN PLATE TO EXPLORE SOME OF VIENTIANE’S RARE CUISINES VIEN T I A N E IS H O M E T O A P L ETHORA OF FANTASTIC LAO, THAI AND FRENCH RESTAURANTS. BUT THIS IS A CITY OF INCREASINGLY DIVE R S E T A S T E , A S E X P A T R I ATES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD SETT L E I N L A O S A N D B R I N G T HE TASTES OF HOME WITH THEM. WHA T U N I Q U E , U N E X P E C T E D CUISINES HAVE FOUND A HOME IN THE S T R E E T S O F T H E L A O C A PITAL?

ISTANBUL RESTAURANT – TURKISH Located on busy downtown street Francois Ngin, Istanbul Restaurant offers the ultimate comfort food amidst the hustle and bustle of the city. The minimalistic interior – complete with regal wallpaper and simple photography of the Turkish city after which it is named – provides a nice place to relax and unwind. The extensive menu includes authentic Turkish dishes such as falafel, doner kebab and pita bread with hummus. Combined with a tasty salty ayran, you will be instantly is available.

T: 020 7797 8187 A: Francois Ngin Road, Ban Mixay, Chanthabouly district, Vientiane Open: Daily 10am-10pm

COME BACK RESTAURANT – DUTCH Hidden on a quiet road away from the bustle of downtown, this small café serves hearty, traditional Dutch treats that are best shared with friends and enjoyed with an ice-cold beer. The simple interior and minimal seating make for a cosy setting, as if you are visiting a friend’s home while sweet-tooths will adore the stroopwafel. There is an extensive selection of coffees and teas on offer – the tiramisu latte is a must-try. A branch of the Express Café franchise, Come Back Restaurant only recently opened in June this year, with the aim of appealing to Dutch expats

T: 020 5530 1806 A: Ban Sybounheung, Vientiane (across from Sisavath Secondary School) W: www.facebook.com/Come.Back.Restaurant Open: Monday-Wednesday 8am-5pm, Thursday-Saturday 8am-9pm

BAHAY PINOY â&#x20AC;&#x201C; FILIPINO The cutesy, colourful dining room with sofa seating shows off the odd quirks of Bahay Pinoy from the moment you walk through the doors. This hidden gem showcases delectable Filipino cuisine served in a laidback, simplistic style. A cuisine often associated with homemade, hearty meals passed down in family recipes, Bahay Pinoy did not disappoint. The menu includes the Filipino favourites of pork sinigang, a tangy tamarind based soup with pork belly and vegetables; tapsilog, a breakfast dish of cured meat served with fried rice and fried egg; and beef adobo, beef marinated with spices such as garlic, vinegar and peppercorns. The restaurant also offers Western-style breakfasts and traditional Lao meals.

T: 020 5897 3999, 030 990 9061 A: Bourichane Road, Ban Phonsinuan, Sisattanak district, Vientiane Open: Daily 8am-10pm

WARUNG EKO â&#x20AC;&#x201C; INDONESIAN Vientiane. The small, unassuming restaurant is located just behind

meat dishes like rendang are all exceptionally tasty. For more advenrewarding choice. The Indonesian menu is only on offer on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, so get in as soon as you can. The menu also includes Thai dishes.

T: 021 450 044, 020 5450 0440 A: Ban Phonexay, Xaysettha district, Vientiane (behind Wat Phonexay) Open: Monday-Friday 8am-2pm

The G oo d Gu i de

Sabaidee’s guide to the very best things to see, do, eat and drink in the country’s urban centres. This month we showcase some of Vientiane’s lesser-known cuisines. Dutch, Indonesian, Filipino and Turkish food in the capital? We show you where to find it! We then get a taste of authentic barbecue Japanese at Sumibiyaki Torishige, along with our usual curated list of our favourite places around Laos in our EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP and SEE & DO listings.

ຄູ່ມືແນະນຳດີໆ ຄູ່ ມື ແ ນະນຳຂອງສະບາຍດີ ນຳພາທ່ າ ນໄປສູ່ ສິ່ ງ ທີ່ ດີ ທີ່ ສຸ ດ ບໍ່ ວ່ າ ຈະ ເປັນບ່ອນເບິ່ງ, ບ່ອນທ່ຽວ, ບ່ອນກິນ ແລະ ບ່ອນດື່ມຢູ່ໃນຕົວເມືອງ ຂອງລາວ. ໃນເດືອນນີ້ ພວກເຮົານຳສະເໜີບັນດາອາຫານໃນນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງ ຈັນທີ່ບໍ່ຄ່ອຍມີຄົນຮູ້ຈັກ ບໍ່ວ່າຈະເປັນອາຫານໂຮນລັງ, ອິນໂດເນເຊຍ, ຟິລິປິນ ແລະ ອາຫານຕວກກີ ເຊິ່ງພວກເຮົາພາທ່ານໄປຄົ້ນພົບຮ້ານ ອາຫານດັ່ງກ່າວເຖິງທີ່ເລີຍ! ນອກນັ້ ນ ແລ້ ວ ພວກເຮົ າ ກໍ່ ຍັ ງ ພາທ່ າ ນໄປລິ້ ມ ລອງ ອາຫານປີ້ ງ ພື້ ນ ເມືອງຍີ່ປຸ່ນ ລົດຊາດດັ້ງເດີມ ທີ່ຮ້ານ ສຸມິບິຢາກິໂທຣິຊິເກະ, ພ້ອມທັງ ບັນດາສະຖານທີ່ຕ່າງໆ ທີ່ຖືກໃຈພວກເຮົາໃນທົ່ວລາວ ຢູ່ໃນລາຍການ EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP ແລະ SEE & DO listings ຂອງພວກເຮົາ.

SABAIDEE'S GUIDE TO

words & photos Shayling Ngo

ECLECTIC EATS SABAIDEE MAGAZINE VENTURES OFF THE BEATEN PLATE TO EXPLORE SOME OF VIENTIANE’S RARE CUISINES VIE N TI AN E IS HOM E T O A PL ETHO RA O F FA N TA S TIC LA O , THA I AND FRENCH RESTAURANTS. BUT THIS IS A CITY OF INCREASINGLY DIVER S E TA S T E, A S EX PA T RI ATE S FRO M A LL O VE R THE W O RLD SE TTL E I N L A OS A ND B RI NG T H E TA STE S O F HO M E W ITH THE M . WHA T U N I Q U E, U NEX P EC T ED C UISIN E S HA VE FO UN D A HO M E IN TH E S TR E E TS OF T HE L A O C A P ITA L?

T: 020 7797 8187 A: Francois Ngin Road, Ban Mixay, Chanthabouly district, Vientiane Open: Daily 10am-10pm

COME BACK RESTAURANT – DUTCH Hidden on a quiet road away from the bustle of downtown, this small café serves hearty, traditional Dutch treats that are best shared with friends and enjoyed with an ice-cold beer. The simple interior and minimal seating make for a cosy setting, as if you are visiting a friend’s home for afternoon tea. The menu includes humble dishes such as the famous bitterballen, oozing with flavour. The pea soup is tasty and comforting, while sweet-tooths will adore the stroopwafel. There is an extensive selection of coffees and teas on offer – the tiramisu latte is a must-try. A branch of the Express Café franchise, Come Back Restaurant only recently opened in June this year, with the aim of appealing to Dutch expats as well as a significant number of Lao clientele who come to enjoy their reasonably priced Lao and Thai dishes.

T: 020 5530 1806 A: Ban Sybounheung, Vientiane (across from Sisavath Secondary School) W: www.facebook.com/Come.Back.Restaurant Open: Monday-Wednesday 8am-5pm, Thursday-Saturday 8am-9pm

T: 020 5897 3999, 030 990 9061 A: Bourichane Road, Ban Phonsinuan, Sisattanak district, Vientiane Open: Daily 8am-10pm

WARUNG EKO â&#x20AC;&#x201C; INDONESIAN Warung Eko brings the flavours of Indonesia right to our doorstep in Vientiane. The small, unassuming restaurant is located just behind the leafy and majestic Wat Phonexay. Only open for lunch, the homey restaurant serves filling portions cooked in the outdoor kitchen. The spicy, flavoursome fried tofu with Indonesian kecap sauce or traditional meat dishes like rendang are all exceptionally tasty. For more adventurous foodies, the fried fish eggs and chicken knees are a brave but rewarding choice. The Indonesian menu is only on offer on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, so get in as soon as you can. The menu also includes Thai dishes.

T: 021 450 044, 020 5450 0440 A: Ban Phonexay, Xaysettha district, Vientiane (behind Wat Phonexay) Open: Monday-Friday 8am-2pm

ສັນຫາອາຫານການກິນອັນແປກໃໝ່

ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດີ ພາທ່ານອອກຈາກເມນູແບບເດີມໆ ແລ້ວໄປ ສັນຫາອາຫານການກິນອັນແປກໃໝ່ ທີ່ຫາໄດ້ຍາກ ໃນຕົວເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ເປັນແຫຼ່ງທີ່ເຕັມໄປດ້ວຍຮ້ານອາຫານແຊບໆຫຼາກຫຼາຍແຫ່ງ ໂດຍສະເພາະແມ່ນອາຫານ ລາວ, ໄທ ແລະ ຝຣັ່ງ. ນອກຈາກນັ້ນແລ້ວ ປັດຈຸບັນ ກໍ່ເລີ່ມມີອາຫານອັນແປກໃໝ່ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນຢ່າງຕໍ່ເນື່ອງໃນວຽງຈັນ ເນື່ອງຈາກວ່າມີຄົນຕ່າງປະເທດຈາກທຸກຫົນແຫ່ງ ໃນທົ່ວໂລກ ໄດ້ຍົກຍ້າຍຖິ່ນຖານ ເຂົ້າມາອາໃສຢູ່ໃນລາວ ແລະ ກໍ່ໄດ້ນຳ�ເອົາອາຫານຈາກບ້ານເກີດເມືອງນອນຂອງພວກເຂົາຕິດຕົວມານຳ�. ເຮົາມາເບິ່ງກັນວ່າ ປັດຈຸບັນ ໃນຕົວເມືອງວຽງຈັນ ມີອາຫານທີ່ແປກໃໝ່ຫຍັງແດ່ ທີ່ແຕກຕ່າງໄປຈາກອາຫານທົ່ວໆໄປ ທີ່ພວກເຮົາເຄີຍກິນກັນ?

ຮ້ານອາຫານ ອິສຕານບູລ– ຕວກກີ ຮ້າ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ອິ ສ ຕ າ ນ ບູ ລ ຕັ້ງ ຢູ່ຖ ະ ໜົນ ຝຣັ່ງຊວາ ຫງິນ ຢູ່ໃນເມືອງ ເຊິ່ງເສີບອາຫານ ທີ່ສຳ�ຜັດ ໄດ້ເ ຖິ ງ ກິ່ນ ອາຍຄວາມອົບ ອຸ່ນ ໃນ ທ່າ ມ ກ າ ງ ຄ ວ າ ມ ສັບ ສົນ ວຸ້ນ ວ າ ຍ ຂ ອ ງ ຕົວ ເມື ອ ງ. ຢູ່ພ າຍໃນຮ້າ ນມີ ກ ານຕົກ ແຕ່ງ ແບບ ຮ ຽ ບ ງ່າ ຍ ເ ໝ າ ະ ແ ກ່ກ າ ນ ພັກ ຜ່ອ ນ ຢ່ອ ນ ໃ ຈ ກັບວໍເປເປີ້ລວດລາຍງົດງາມ ແລະ ຮູບພາບຂອງ ເມື ອ ງແຫ່ງ ໜຶ່ງ ໃນປະເທດຕວກກີ ເຊິ່ງ ເປັ ນ ທີ່ມ າ ຂອງຊື່ຮ້ານ ກໍ່ຄືເມືອງອິສຕານບູລນັ້ນເອງ. ເມນູພາຍໃນຮ້ານ ມີອາຫານຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ລວມທັງອາຫານອັນເປັນເອກະລັກຂອງຕວກກີ ກໍ່ຄື ຟາລາເຟລ (ຈືນລູກຊີ້ນ), ໂດເນີ້ ເຄບັບ (ຊີ້ນຊອຍກິນກັບແປ້ງ), ແລະ ເຂົ້າຈີ່ພີຕ້າ ກັບ ຮຳ�ມັສ. ອາຫານດັ່ງກ່າວນີ້ ກິນຄູ່ກັນກັບອາຍຣານ (ນົມສົ້ມຕວກກີ) ລົດຊາດເຄັມໆແຊບໆ ແລ້ວທ່ານຈະຮູ້ສຶກວ່າ ທ່ານກຳ�ລັງຮັບປະທານອາຫານຢູ່ໃນປະເທດຕວກກີເລີຍ. ນອກຈາກບ່ອນນັ່ງທາງໃນແລ້ວ ທ່ານກໍ່ຍັງສາມາດນັ່ງຮັບປະທານອາຫານ ແລະ ດື່ມດ່ຳ�ກັບບັນຍາກາດຢູ່ດ້ານນອກນຳ�ອີກ. ໂທ: 020 7797 8187 ທີ່ຢູ່: ຖະໜົນ ຝຣັ່ງຊວາ ຫງິນ, ບ້ານມີໄຊ, ເມືອງຈັນທະບູລີ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ

ບາຮາຍ ປີນ້ອຍ - ຟິລິປິນ ຮ້າ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ນີ້ມີ ສີ ສັນ ສົໃ ສ ຕົກ ແ ຕ່ງ ແບບໜ້າ ຮັກ ໆ ພ້ອ ມບ່ອ ນນັ່ງ ທີ່ເ ປັ ນ ໂຊຟາ ເຊິ່ງທ່ານຈະສຳ�ຜັດໄດ້ເຖິງກິ່ນອາຍອັນແປກ ໃໝ່ຂອງຮ້ານນີ້ ນັບຕັ້ງແຕ່ວິນາທີທີ່ທ່ານກ້າວ ເຂົ້າສູ່ປະຕູຮ້ານ. ຮ້ານນ້ອຍໆນີ້ ບໍ່ຄ່ອຍມີຄົນ ຮູ້ຈັກ ແ ຕ່ທ າ ງ ຮ້າ ນ ມີ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ພື້ນ ເ ມື ອ ງ ຟິລິປິນທີ່ເປັນຕາແຊບຫຼາຍເຍື່ອງ, ເສີບແບບ ທຳ�ມະດາໆ, ເຊິ່ງອາຫານຟິລິປິນນີ້ ສ່ວນຫຼາຍຈະ ເປັນອາຫານທີ່ປງຸ ແຕ່ງພາຍໃນເຮືອນ ກັບສູດອາຫານ ແຊບໆ ທີ່ຕົກທອດມາຈາກຮຸ່ນຄົນກ່ອນໆໃນຄອບຄົວ ທີ່ທ່ານຊິມແລ້ວຈະບໍ່ຜດ ິ ຫວັງ. ເມນູ ຢູ່ຮ້າ ນນີ້ ລວມມີ ອ າຫານຟິ ລິ ປິ ນ ທີ່ຖື ກ ໃຈຫຼາຍໆຄົນ ເຊັ່ນ ໝູ ຊິ ນິ ແ ກງ, ເຊິ່ງເປັນແກງໝາກຂາມໃສ່ພື້ນທ້ອງໝູ ແລະ ຜັກ; ຕັບຊີລັອກ, ເຊິ່ງເປັນອາຫານເຊົ້າ ມີຊີ້ນຊອຍບາງໆ ກິນກັບເຂົ້າຜັດ ແລະ ຈືນໄຂ່; ແລະ ມີ ງົວອະໂດໂບ, ເຊິ່ງເປັນຊີ້ນງົວ ໝັກ ກັບ ເຄື່ອ ງເທດ ເຊັ່ນ ກະທຽມ, ນ້ຳ�ສົ້ມ ສາຍຊູ ແລະ ພິ ກ ໄທ. ນອກນັ້ນ ທາງຮ້ານກໍ່ຍັງມີອາຫານເຊົ້າ ແບບຕ່າງປະເທດ ແລະ ອາຫານພື້ນເມືອງລາວນຳ�.

ເປີດ:ທຸກມື້, 10ໂມງເຊົ້າ-10ໂມງກາງຄືນ

ໂທ: 020 5897 3999, 030 990 9061 ທີ່ຢູ່: ຖະໜົນບູຣິຈັນ, ບ້ານໂພນສີນວນ, ເມືອງສີສັດຕະນາກ,ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ

ຮ້ານອາຫານ ຄຳ� ແບັກ – ໂຮນລັງ

ເປີດ:ທຸກມື້, 8ໂມງເຊົ້າ-10ໂມງກາງຄືນ

ຮ້າ ນກາເຟນ້ອ ຍໆນີ້ ຕັ້ງ ຢູ່ແ ຖວສີ ບຸ ນ ເຮື ອ ງ ຫ່າ ງ ຈ າ ກ ຕົວ ເ ມື ອ ງ ອັນ ວຸ້ນ ວ າ ຍ , ເ ປັ ນ ຮ້າ ນ ທີ່ເ ສີ ບ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ພື້ນ ເ ມື ອ ງ ໂ ຮ ນ ລັງ ແຊບໆ ເໝາະແກ່ກ ານກິ ນ ຮ່ວ ມກັນ ກັບ ໝູ່ ຄູ່ ໄ ປ ພ້ອ ມ ໆ ກັບ ກ າ ນ ຈິ ບ ເ ບ ຍ ເ ຢັ ນ ໆ . ທາງໃນບໍ່ໄ ດ້ມີ ກ ານຕົກ ແຕ່ງ ຫຼາຍ, ບ່ອ ນນັ່ງ ກໍ່ບໍ່ຫຼ າຍ, ເຮັ ດ ໃຫ້ຮູ້ສຶ ກ ສະບາຍໆ ເປັ ນ ກັນ ເອງ ພໍປານວ່າ ມາຢ້ຽມຢາມຖາມຂ່າວ ກິນເຂົ້າຢູ່ບ້ານໝູ່. ເມນູ ກໍ່ລ ວມມີ ອ າຫານທີ່ເ ປັ ນ ເອກະລັກ ຂອງໂຮນລັງ ກໍ່ຄື ບິ ດເຕີ້ບໍເລັນ (ຈືນລູກຊີ້ນ) ລົດຊາດແຊບໆ. ນອກນັ້ນກໍ່ມີຊຸບຖົ່ວຮ້ອນໆແຊບໆ, ແລະ ສຳ�ລັບ ຜູ້ທີ່ມັກ ຂ ອ ງ ຫວ າ ນ ທ າ ງ ຮ້າ ນ ກໍ່ມີ ສ ຕ ຣູ ບ ວ າ ບ ໂ ຟ້ ( ຄ້າ ຍ ໆ ເ ຂົ້າ ໜົມ ຮັງ ເ ຜິ້ງ ສອດໃສ້ນ້ຳ�ເຊື່ອ ມ) ນຳ�ອີ ກ . ນອກນັ້ນ ກໍ່ຍັງ ມີ ລ າຍການກາເຟ ແລະ ຊາໃຫ້ເ ລື ອ ກ ຫຼ າ ກ ຫຼ າ ຍ ໂ ດ ຍ ສ ະ ເ ພ າ ະ ແ ມ່ນ ທີ ຣ າ ມິ ສຸ ລ າ ເ ຕ້ ທີ່ທ່າ ນ ຕ້ອ ງ ໄ ດ້ລິ້ມ ລ ອ ງ . ຮ້າ ນອາຫານຄຳ�ແບັ ກ ເປັ ນ ສາຂາຂອງແຟຣນຊາຍ ເອັ ກ ເປຣັສ ຄາເຟ້, ຫາກໍ່ ເປີ ດ ຂຶ້ນ ຫວ່າ ງເດື ອ ນມິ ຖຸ ນ າ ປີ ນີ້, ໂດຍແນໃສ່ຮ ອງຮັບ ກຸ່ມ ລູ ກ ຄ້າ ຄົນ ໂຮນລັງ ທີ່ມ າເຮັ ດ ວຽກ ແລະ ອາໃສຢູ່ໃນລາວ ແລະ ກໍ່ຍັງມີລູກຄ້າຄົນລາວ ທີ່ມາແວະກິນອາຫານລາວ ແລະ ໄທນຳ�ອີກ ເຊິ່ງລາຄາກໍ່ບໍ່ແພງຫຼາຍ. ໂທ: 020 5530 1806 ທີ່ຢູ່: ບ້ານສີບຸນເຮືອງ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ (ກົງກັນຂ້າມໂຮງຮຽນມັດທະຍົມສີສະຫວາດ) ເວັບໄຊ: www.facebook.com/Come.Back.Restaurant

ວາຣຸງ ເອໂກ – ອິນໂດເນເຊຍ ຮ້າ ນ ວາຣຸ ງ ເອໂກ ນຳ�ອາຫານລົດ ຊາດ ແຊບໆ ຂອງອິນໂດເນເຊຍ ມາສູ່ນະຄອນ ຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ. ຮ້ານນ້ອຍໆທີ່ເບິ່ງບໍ່ຄືຮ້ານ ອາຫານນີ້ ຕັ້ງ ຢູ່ທ າງຫຼັງ ວັດ ໂພນໄຊອັນ ຮົ່ມ ເຢັ ນ ເຊິ່ງ ເປີ ດ ໃຫ້ບໍ ລິ ກ ານສະເພາະ ຕອນສວາຍເທົ່າ ນັ້ນ . ຮ້າ ນດັ່ງ ກ່າ ວໃຫ້ ຄວາມຮູ້ສຶ ກ ຄື ຢູ່ບ້າ ນເຊິ່ງ ອາຫານຢູ່ຮ້າ ນນີ້ ແມ່ນຄົວຢູ່ເຮືອນຄົວຢູ່ດ້ານນອກ.ອາຫານທີ່ຂຶ້ນ ຊື່ກໍ່ມີ ຈືນເຕົາຮູ້ໃສ່ຊອສເຄຈັບ ລົດຊາດເຜັດໆແຊບ, ຫຼື ຂົ້ວ ຊີ້ນ ພື້ນ ເມື ອ ງເຊັ່ນ ເຣັ ນ ດັງ ກໍ່ມີ ລົດ ຊາດແຊບຊ້ອ ຍເຊັ່ນ ດຽວກັນ . ສຳ�ລັບ ຜູ້ທີ່ມັກ ອາຫານແປກໆຕ້ອ ງໄດ້ລ ອງຊິ ມ ຈື ນ ໄຂ່ປ າ ແລະ ເຂົ່າ ໄກ່. ອາຫານອິນໂດເນເຊຍແຊບໆນີ້ ແມ່ນມີແຕ່ສະເພາະທຸກໆວັນຈັນ, ວັນພຸດ ແລະ ວັນສຸກເທົ່ານັ້ນ. ສ່ວນມື້ອື່ນໆ ແມ່ນເສີບອາຫານໄທ. ໂທ: 021 450 044, 020 5450 0440 ທີ່ຢູ່: ບ້ານໂພນໄຊ, ເມືອງໄຊເຊດຖາ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ (ຫຼັງວັດໂພນໄຊ) ເປີດ: ວັນຈັນ-ວັນສຸກ, 8ໂມງເຊົ້າ-2ໂມງສວາຍ.

ເປີດ: ວັນຈັນ-ວັນພຸດ 8ໂມງເຊົ້າ-5ໂມງແລງ, ວັນພະຫັດ-ວັນເສົາ 8ໂມງເຊົ້າ - 9ໂມງກາງຄືນ

EAT

| Bistro 22 |

Listing

VIENTIANE • YULALA CAFÉ & RESTAURANT – Japanese/ Fusion. Pull up a chair or nestle into a floor cushion

at this cute little joint which puts a Japanese spin on Western ingredients. While the daily specials are ever-changing popular mainstays include sautéed chicken with tofu, soy sauce and mirin and the potato croquettes with mince beef and a tomato-based sauce. Set meals come with salad, pickled vegetables, flavoursome broth and steamed purple rice. Seating is limited so it can pack out early on the weekends. Rue Hengboun, 020 5510 4050, facebook.com/ pages/YuLaLa-cafe-restaurant/148520861845706 http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet. asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11.30am – 2pm, 6pm – 9.30pm.

• DAIRY QUEEN – Ice-cream/American. Dairy

Queen opened its second Lao branch on the Mekong riverside on June 18 to an ecstatic reception. The popular ice-cream chain was previously only open in Wattay International Airport, catering to arriving and departing passengers. The new shop – located in the heart of Vientiane on the main river road – is constantly busy, churning out ice creams, sundaes, milkshakes, iced coffees and DQ’s signature ‘Blizzards’ to eager customers looking for a reprieve from the tropical heat. There are six varieties of hot dogs as a more savoury option. Quay Fa Ngum, 021 255 380, www.facebook. com/DairyQueenLaos.

• BAN GAI TEX MEX CANTINA – American/ Mexican. Ban Gai serves outstanding Mexican

food at low prices thanks to its slightly hidden location outside the city centre. Once famed purely for their finger-licking buffalo hot wings, Ban Gai has expanded their menu to include a host of authentic Tex Mex classics including nachos, enchiladas and burritos heaped with fresh salsa, gooey cheese and accompanied by bowls of piping hot rice and beans. Almost everything can be ordered vegetarian. Pair anything from the menu with one of their delicious margaritas and you’re set. Family friendly, delivery. Sokpalaung Road, 020 9825 6654, facebook.com/ BanGaiHouseOfChickenhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/ our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11am – 9pm.

• BENONI CAFÉ – Asian/Western/Café.

Escape the bustle of downtown Vientiane at Benoni Café, a bright and airy café-cum-restaurant which serves up fresh and tasty Asian and Western fare. Choose from a wide range of baguettes, quiches, burgers and noodle and rice dishes – all prepared quickly and served with a smile. The Lao coffee is home roasted and the delicious cakes and sweets are all made in-house. WiFi, family friendly. Rue Setthathirath (above Phimphone), 021 213 334, facebook.com/benonicafehttp://www.tree-alliance. org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm.

| Vegetarian in the Golden Age |

• BISTRO 22 – French.

Chef Philippe presents honest French bistro fare at this cosy, hole-in-the-wall eatery. The food is fresh and flavourful with highlights including the goat’s cheese salad, rabbit terrine and classic steak frites. Popular with the expat crowd, the service is faultless and the desserts, including a delectable chocolate fondant, are not to be missed. 22 Samsenthai Road, Ban Khaonyot, 021 214 129http:// www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet. asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Monday to Friday 11am – 2pm, Monday to Saturday 6pm – 10pm.

• RAY’S GRILLE – American/Mexican.

It’s all about comfort food at Ray’s – home style burgers, legendary Philly cheese steak sandwiches and tasty quesadillas – all fresh and made to order in this homely joint. While the real drawcard is the colossal cheeseburger (best handled with two hands) mention must also go to the felafel burger which is sure to satisfy vegetarians. A selection of local and imported beers are available including a few micro-brewed American craft beers – just the ticket to wash down this tasty diner fare. 17/1 Sihom Road, 020 5896 6866, facebook. com/raysgrilleLaopdr. Open Monday to Friday, Sunday 11am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm.

• LAO KITCHEN – Lao.

A colourful eatery that specialises in authentic Lao dishes. Sisters Noi and Teng run the show while their family help out in the kitchen preparing soups, stews, grilled meats, stir-fry dishes and of course laap (the duck variation is a stand out). A great place for those new to Lao cuisine – the menu is full of helpful explanations for each dish and warns you if something may be a little too piquant for some palates. Rue Hengboun (opposite KP Hotel), 021 254 332, lao-kitchen.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/ our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Monday to Sunday 11am – 10pm.

• VEGIE HUT – Vegetarian. You would never ever

find this brilliant Chinese-style hideout if you weren’t looking for it. A lot of thought has been put into making Vegie Hut’s interior warm, comfortable and inviting. The menu is huge, and you’ll find flavours from Chinese, Lao and Thai cuisines. Dishes include fake duck and fake seafood. The staff are extremely attentive and friendly, and prices are very fair. Vegie Hut can get crowded, so consider making a booking. Vegetarian friendly. Asean Road, at the intersection with Sibounheuang Road, 020 5619 9938. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-9pm.

| Dairy Queen |

• AI CAPONE – Italian.

The latest offering from Chef Gerardo is Ai Capone, in downtown Vientiane. The contemporary interior is matched with a modern menu offering top Italian dining with a casual flair, boasting simple dishes packing authentic flavours. The menu ranges from pastas and mains to risotto and desserts – but it’s hard to look past the woodfired pizzas with over 40 combinations straight from Napoli. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, Ban Mixai, 020 5991 0888, facebook.com/aicaponelaospdr. Open 7 days 11.30am – 10.30pm. | Ai Capone |

• VEGETARIAN IN THE GOLDEN AGE – Vegetarian. The geniuses in the kitchen at Vegetarian in the Golden Age have got fake meat down to a forensic art. Some veggies aren’t a fan of this, but if you can get past the weirdness of biting into superrealistic fried fish somehow created from soybeans, the dishes are delicious. Fake pork, beef and chicken are all on the menu too, alongside more conventional veggie staples like eggplant and tofu that aren’t pretending to be anything else. The food is fantastic and best shared with a few friends. The restaurant is run by Vietnamese monks, and the walls are adorned with photographs of famous Vietnamese Buddhist leader Master Ruma. Come at lunch for a super-cheap buffet. All food here is believed to be vegan. Vegetarian, vegan friendly. Lunch buffet. Saylom Road, 020 5550 5305. Open daily 8am-8pm.

| Vegie Hut |

VIENTIANE • MAKPHET – Lao. This restaurant-cum-social enterprise is working

to shape lives. Founded by Friends-International, Makphet provides training in hospitality to disadvantaged youth in Laos. If that wasn’t enough reason to dine here the kitchen creates an inspired take on Lao cuisine, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques. #78 Ban Inpeng, Vat Chanh Tha, 021 260 587, makphet-restaurant.org. Open Monday to Sunday 11am-10.30pm.

| L’Adresse de Tinay |

• SOUL KITCHEN – Italian. This laid-back dinner hot spot is a little off

the main drag but the pizzas and casual atmosphere – complete with rock and blues tunes – make it worth the trip. The menu includes tasty pasta dishes and salads but it’s the traditional wood fired pizzas that keeps Soul Kitchen’s loyal fans coming back for more. In keeping with the quotes from rock stars scrawled on the walls, the pies have fun names like ‘Rock n Roll’, ‘Purple Haze’ and ‘Voodoo Child’. Family friendly. Thadeua Road 143 (KM 0.5), 020 5612 0804, soulkitchen.vientiane@gmail.comhttp:// www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

• KUNG’S CAFÉ LAO – Lao/Breakfast. Tucked down a residential laneway, this popular breakfast and lunch haunt is a hit with those inthe-know. The breakfast and lunch menu runs all day so try Lao-inspired sweets like sticky rice pancakes with mango or banana French toast and savoury dishes like meatballs in broth with a fresh crunchy baguette or the Pad Lao noodles with pork. On the main street, look for a small hand painted sign pointing the way. Off Rue Simeuang, Piawat Village, 021 219 101, facebook.com/KungsCafeLaohttp://www.tree-alliance.org/ our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 6am – 3pm.

• VIENG SAWAN – Vietnamese. Look beyond the décor at this

bustling eatery which serves up cheap and delicious Vietnamese dishes to hungry masses. Order a fresh or fried spring roll combination which comes with heaped plates of fresh lettuce, herbs and noodles designed to be eaten together. If you’re feeling lost check out how neighbouring diners are doing things and follow suit. Rue Hengboun (opposite Home Ideal), 021 213 990http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/ makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• OSAKA HAC CHAO – Japanese.

This cosy eatery is usually buzzing with Japanese customers who come for a taste of home – always a good sign. Simple traditional and not-so-traditional Japanese fare is on offer including generous sushi and sashimi platters, crisp tempura, steaming bowls of ramen and udon noodle soups and a variety of katsu dishes. The set meals are a great way to try a little of everything and the tempura ice cream is a quirky addition to the sweets menu. Nokeokoummane Road (next to Le Banneton)http://www.tree-alliance. org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• L’ADRESSE DE TINAY RESTAURANT FRANÇAIS – French.

Chef Tinay produces some of Vientiane’s finest and most inventive French cuisine at this chic dining spot. The whole duck breast with homemade foie gras and white truffle oil is a current favourite and Tinay’s signature cassoulet with homemade confit duck is the perfect nod to traditional French comfort food. For dessert the crème brulee is the best in town. Behind Wat Ong Teu, 020 5691 3434, ladressedetinay.comhttp:// www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Monday to Friday 11.30am – 2pm, 6.30pm – 10pm, Saturday 6.30pm – 10pm.

• JAMIL ZAHID RESTAURANT – Indian/Pakistani.

This cheap and cheerful eatery is affectionately known simply as Jamil’s by the loyal diners that frequent it. Tucked down an alley, Jamil and his team serve up authentic Indian and Pakistani dishes which are full of flavour and light on the hip pocket. Ordering anything that comes from Jamil’s on-site traditional tandoori oven is always a safe bet. Off Khounboulom Road, Ban Haysok, 020 5650 2455, facebook. com/JamilZahidRestaurantVientianehttp://www.tree-alliance.org/ourrestaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 11.00am – 10.30pm.

EAT

Listing

LUANG PRABANG • LES 3 NAGAS – Lao. Dining at Les 3 Nagas is a

distinctly local affair with the restaurant housed both on the inviting terrace of the 3 Nagas Hotel and inside an adjacent colonial-style building. Executing both authentic Lao dishes and the chef’s original creations with a touch of French finesse this attractive lunch and dinner spot presents some of the finest food in town. Start your meal with the crisp and tangy Luang Prabang salad and round off with the black sticky rice for dessert. Happy hours 3pm – 6pm. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, 3-nagas. comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/ makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

• RESTAURANT L’ELEPHANT – French/Lao.

L’Elephant is housed in a charming colonial building just steps away from the magnificent Mekong River. Specialising in traditional and creative French and Lao cuisine the kitchen places an emphasis on using organic, local produce which is grown in their own gardens a few kilometres out of town. Free WiFi. Kounxoa Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/ our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 11.00am – 10pm.

| Tamarind Restaurant. |

• TAMARIND RESTAURANT – Lao.

Tamarind specialises in helping diners explore and learn about Lao cuisine and the traditions associated with it. Enjoy sampling platters or something from the a la carte menu with explanations and demonstrations from helpful staff and the Nam Khan River as a picturesque backdrop. If you’re happy to be guided by the chef try one of the famed specialised feasts choices include Traditional Lao Fish Barbeque, The Adventurous Lao Gourmet and Luang Prabang Family Dinner. Ban Wat Sene on the banks of the Nam Khan River, 071 213 128, tamarindlaos.com. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 9pm.

• CAFÉ TOUI – Lao/Western. A

colourful hole in the wall on a quiet side street leading to the Mekong River. Chef Toui began his culinary journey as a waiter in Vientiane before working the kitchen at L’Elephant where he developed his passion for cooking. Now head of the kitchen at his own eatery Toui serves up hearty Lao and Western fare using fresh, local ingredients. Sisavangvatthana Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 020 5657 6763, cafetoui.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/ our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

• TAMNAK LAO RESTAURANT – Lao. A family-

run restaurant which delivers delicious authentic and homely Lao cuisine. The in-house cooking school means the staff know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask questions. Try the crispy bamboo shoots stuffed with pork and vegetables or the ubiquitous Luang Prabang sausage, both are done very well here. Sakarinne Road, 071 212 239, tamnaklao.net. Open 7 days breakfast 8.30am – 10.30am, lunch 11am – 3pm, dinner 5pm – 11pm.

• LA BELLE EPOQUE – Lao/Western.

Housed in the grand Luang Say Residence, just outside the city centre, this upscale dining room exudes a warm, heritage ambience. The seasonal, healthy and creative menu changes quarterly and features a tempting selection of regional dishes from Laos and further afield in South East Asia. An on-site fruit and vegetable garden means fresh ingredients are always at the kitchen’s fingertips. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260 891, luangsayresidence.comhttp://www.tree-alliance. org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 6am – 10.30pm.

PAKSE

SAVANNAKHET

• LE PANORAMA – Lao/International. As

• CAFÉ CHAI DEE – Japanese/ Western. Fun little café housed in a

the name might suggest this leafy rooftop terrace, perched on the top floor of the Hotel Pakse, has the best views in town. Diners can take their pick from a range of cuisines including Lao, Thai and French. No matter what you’re eating the fact remains Le Panorama is the place to sit back, relax and take in a glorious sunset in Pakse, chilled Beerlao in hand optional. Street 5, Bane Watlouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.comhttp:// www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet. asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• NADAO – French/Lao. French/Lao. A great find

in Pakse, Nadao offers fresh and flavoursome French bistro fare and traditional Lao dishes in a fine dining atmosphere. A little out of the city centre, its location hasn’t stopped locals and visitors alike from flocking to experience some of the best gourmet dining in southern Laos. The service is faultless and the owner/chef will almost always be happy to suggest something from his repertoire. Near the Japanese Bridge (opposite the Champasak Grand Hotel), 021 213 174http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/ makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• LAN KHAM NOODLE HOUSE – Lao.

Attached to the Lan Kham Hotel this noodle house is considered famous around these parts. Particularly popular with locals for breakfast – you may have to fight for a spot – Lan Kham consistently produces huge steaming bowls of noodle soup accompanied by heaped plates of fresh herbs and greens. Cheap and tasty, having this on your doorstep would be reason enough to stay at the neighbouring guest house. Street 13, Lakmeaumg Village. Open 7 days 6.30am – 1pm.

sunshine-yellow building on the main street of Savannakhet. Chai Dee serves up a mix of Japanese favourites including katsudon, sushi, cold noodle salad alongside fresh sandwiches and Thai curries. Cosy into a comfy armchair with a freshly brewed Lao coffee lounge on the sunny terrace with an icy Chai Dee Cooler. Occasional live music in the evenings. Free WiFi, book exchange. 1 Latsavongseuk Road, Lattanalansy Thai Village, 020 9179 2479, cafechaidee.comhttp://www.treealliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet. asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am – 9.00pm.

• LIN’S CAFE – Asian/Café. A friendly

tucked away eatery housed in a 1930s building complete with original art-deco tiles. Located in the heart of historic downtown this is the perfect place to while away the afternoon with a fresh Lao coffee and tasty Lao/Vietnamese fare. An upstairs gallery exhibits photographs of old Savannakhet. Free WiFi, tourist information, bicycle rental. Latsaphanit Road, Ban Xaiyaphoum Village, 020 9988 1630, lincafe.netau.nethttp://www.treealliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet. asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 8.30am – 8.00pm.

| Café Chai Dee. |

| Lin's Cafe. |

Smoky skewers, not sushi, at There’s a lot of Japanese spoken inside Sumibiyaki Torishige. Located near the Japanese Embassy, this is a place where Japanese nationals from a range of professions come to meet over truly authentic food from home. Don’t expect to find California rolls here – this is a restaurant for serious fans of the cuisine. The service at Sumibiyaki is sharp and attentive. As soon as you’re seated, staff bring a wet towel for you to clean your hands with. A little bowl of seaweed salad follows shortly after. The menu is short but immaculately curated. The emphasis is on charcoal and barbecue flavours, especially focusing on chicken. Try the chef’s specialty teriyaki chicken skewers for smoky, tender meat that falls apart in your chopsticks. The grilled salmon belly is wonderfully crispy on the outside, yet soft and tender on the inside. The non-meat options are delicious as well. Deep-fried tofu and grilled rice balls pack in an extraordinary amount of flavour. The chef has honed the marinating process to a fine art. A bowl of miso soup makes for a tasty, warming entre. The interior’s sleek, modern design reflects the precision for which Japanese cooking is renown. The kitchen isn’t tucked away out back – rather, dishes are grilled right in front of you, filling the air with a smoky haze. The black marble bar running along one side has comfortable stool seating, while larger tables cater to groups of diners. Behind the bar is an expensive but refined selection of sake. Staples like Beerlao are available too. The food at Sumibiyaki is very different to that at the increasing number of sushi restaurants in downtown Vientiane. It is an authentic and unique dining experience that is well deserving of its loyal Japanese clientele.

Sumibiyaki Torishige

O p e n We d n e s d a y - M o n d a y 5 . 3 0 p m - 1 1 . 0 0 p m . (Tuesday Close) A: Sisangvone Road, Vientiane T: 020 9757 5700

Eat

Highlight

Words & photos James Elton-Pym

Sumibiyaki japanese ອາຫານປີ້ງແບບຍີ່ປຸ່ນທີ່

ສຸມິບິຢາກິ

ທ່ານຈະໄດ້ຍິນສຽງຄົນເວົ້າພາສາຍີ່ປຸ່ນຢ່າງຫຼວງຫຼາຍ ເມື່ອທ່ານກ້າວເຂົ້າໄປ ພາຍໃນຮ້ານ ສຸມບ ິ ຢ ິ າກິ ໂທຣິຊເິ ກະ. ຮ້ານດັ່ງກ່າວຕັ້ງຢູ່ໃກ້ກັບສະຖານທູດຍີ່ປຸ່ນ ເຊິ່ງຮ້ານແຫ່ງນີ້ ແມ່ນເປັນສະຖານທີ່ ທີ່ບັນດາຄົນເຊື້ອຊາດຍີ່ປຸ່ນມາພົບປະກັນ ພ້ອມຮັບປະທານອາຫານລົດຊາດດັ້ງເດີມແບບຍີ່ປຸ່ນແທ້ໆເຮັດໃຫ້ຫວນຄະນຶງ ຫາ ບ້ານເກີດເມືອງນອນຂອງເຂົາ. ການບໍ ລິ ກ ານຢູ່ຮ້າ ນສຸ ມິ ບິ ຢ າກິ ແ ມ່ນ ມີ ຄ ວາມເອົ າ ໃຈໃສ່ລູ ກ ຄ້າ ຫຼາຍ. ພໍ ແ ຕ່ທ່າ ນນັ່ງ ລົງ , ພະນັກງານ ກໍ່ຈະນຳ�ຜ້າເຢັນໆມາໃຫ້ທ່ານເຊັດມື. ຫຼັງຈາກນັ້ນ ບໍ່ພໍເທົ່າໃດ ເຂົາເຈົ້າກໍ່ຈະນຳ� ຍຳ�ສາຫຼ່າຍຖ້ວຍນ້ອຍໆມາໃຫ້ທ່ານ. ເມນູ ອ າດຈະໜ້ອ ຍ ແຕ່ກໍ່ຖື ກ ຄັດ ສັນ ມາເປັ ນ ຢ່າ ງດີ . ອາຫານສ່ວ ນຫຼາຍຈະເນັ້ນ ໜັກ ເປັ ນ ລົດ ຊາດບາບີ ຄິ ວ ໂດຍສະເພາະໄກ່. ລອງຊິ ມ ປີ້ງ ໄກ່ເ ທຣິ ຢ າກິ ແ ບບພິ ເ ສດຂອງພໍ່ຄົວ ເຊິ່ງ ມີ ກິ່ນ ຫອມຮົມ ຄວັນ , ຊີ້ນ ຜ່ອ ຍໆ ແຕກອອກເປັ ນ ຕ່ອ ນໆ ພໍ ແ ຕ່ທ່າ ນເອົ າ ໄມ້ຖູ່ຄີ ບ . ປີ້ງພື້ນທ້ອງປາແຊລມອນ ກອບໆຢູ່ທາງນອກ ແຕ່ກໍ່ຍັງນຸ້ມໆຢູ່ທາງໃນ. ສ່ວນອາຫານອັນອື່ນທີ່ບໍ່ແມ່ນຊີ້ນກໍ່ແຊບຄືກັນ. ລອງຊິມຈືນເຕົາຮູ້ ແລະ ປີ້ງເຂົ້າເປັນໜ່ວຍມົນໆ ກໍ່ແຊບດີ. ແກງມິໂຊະອຸ່ນໆທີ່ເສີບມາຄຽງຄູ່ກັນ ເຮັດໃຫ້ລົດຊາດອາຫານແຊບຂຶ້ນ. ການຕົກແຕ່ງພາຍໃນຮ້ານມີຄວາມງົດງາມ ແລະ ທັນສະໄໝ. ທ່ານຈະແນມເຫັນພໍ່ຄົວປີ້ງອາ ຫານຢູ່ຕໍ່ໜ້າຂອງທ່ານເລີຍ ພ້ອມບັນຍາກາດຮ້ານທີ່ອົບອວນໄປດ້ວຍຄວັນ. ສຸມິບິຢາກິ ໂທຣິຊິເກະ ເເປີດ: ວັນພຸດ ຫາ ວັນຈັນ ເວລາ 5:30ແລງ-11 ໂມງກາງຄືນ. (ປິດວັນຄານ) ໂທ: 020 9757 5700 ທີ່ຢູ່: ຖະໜົນສີສັງວອນ, ວຽງຈັນ

CAFÉ

Listing

VIENTIANE • CAFÉ NOMAD – Café. A hidden, hip little gem

perched on a bustling intersection, Café Nomad is a popular haunt for office workers, embassy staff and those in the know. Their straightforward menu of coffee, juices, paninis and cakes may be small, but it’s all executed extremely well. Free Wi-Fi, public pc/printer/scanner. 1-342 Dongpalanthong, Sisattanak, 020 5434 9977, facebook.com/ cafenomad.lao. Open Monday to Friday 8.30am – 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am – 6pm.

| Naked Espresso |

• NOY’S FRUIT HEAVEN – Shakes/Café.

A cute and colourful hangout that is popular with travellers, Noy and her team serve up fresh and fast fruit shakes and juices in a medley of tropical combinations. If you’re after something you can sink your teeth into Noy’s is great for flavoursome sandwiches, wraps and burgers – try the felafel pita stuffed with fresh salad and feta. 60/2 Rue Hengboun. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm. – Café. A popular place for a caffeine hit this light filled café serves up some of the best brew in town. Naked Espresso is all about a combination of fine Arabica beans sourced from Southern Laos and Northern Thailand, welltrained baristas, friendly service and a world-class espresso machine. Free Wi-Fi. Dongpalan Road, 021 454 6 3 1 , n a k e d e s p res s o caf e.n et. Open Tuesday to Friday 7am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 8am – 5pm.

• NAKED ESPRESSO

• COMMON GROUNDS CAFÉ AND BAKERY – Café/Mexican. This family friendly café is the perfect

place to kick back in a comfy armchair and refuel with a coffee and homemade cake while the kids enjoy the outdoor playground. Their organic coffee is sourced from Saffron in Luang Prabang which supports farmers to grow coffee instead of opium, so you won’t feel too guilty settling in for a second latte. Free Wi-Fi. Rue Chao Anou, 021 255 057, facebook.com/commongroundslaos. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 8pm.

• LE TRIO COFFEE – Café.

Le Trio Coffee is the latest addition to Vientiane’s buzzy café scene, with their boutique art deco-inspired shopfront. An artisanal roaster since 2009, Le Trio roasts the finest Lao-sourced Arabica and Robusta beans with some of the best European equipment in-house. Now in their own café, guests can enjoy a brew on the sunny terrace, at the elegant salon-style bar, or pick up a bag of beans to enjoy at home. Setthathirath Road, 020 2255 3552, facebook.com/letriocoffee. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am – 4pm.

• TRUE COFFEE – Café. The Vientiane flagship of

the popular Thai chain has the slick, western-style coffee house vibe down pat. But comfy sofas and speedy WiFi aside, the coffee here is excellent and comes in a myriad of piping hot and icy cold variations. Situated in the heart of downtown Vientiane True Coffee is perfect for a quick caffeine hit on-the-go or a lengthy escape from the daily grind with one of their delicious selection of sweet treats. 111 Setthathirath Road, close to Nam Phu Fountain, 044 253 338http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/ makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• BEGONIA CAFÉ – Café. A cosy new coffee house in

the That Luang area, Begonia serves up delicious Saffronbrand coffee from Luang Prabang. Fans of vintage-chic will love the array of quirky trinkets on display including old typewriters, retro phones and record players – and don’t forget to look up at the colourful umbrellas peppering the ceiling. Don’t miss a slice of Begonia’s signature crepe cake – layer upon layer of delicate crepes sandwiched with a filling of your choice including mango and coconut. Soi 4 off Nongbone Road, 020 5555 5082, facebook.com/ pages/Begonia-Café/124868954261514. Open Monday to Saturday 9am – 5.30pm.

• JOMA BAKERY CAFÉ – Café/Western. A name

synonymous with the Vientiane café scene, each of Joma’s three Vientiane shopfronts provides tasty, fresh eats and organic fair trade coffee in a cosy, coffeehouse atmosphere. The friendly staff and speedy service make Joma a popular choice for those on-the-go while others tend to linger awhile over breakfast, lunch or any of the delicious in-house baked goods. Free Wi-Fi, delivery. Joma Namphou: Th. Setthathilath, Joma Phonthan: Th. Dongpalane, Joma That Luang: cnr Singha Rd/Nongbone Rd, delivery: 021 254 333, joma.biz. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm. | Joma Bakery Café |

| Café Nomad |

BAR

Listing

LUANG PRABANG PAKSE • LE CAFÉ BAN VAT SENE – Café. Sitting pretty on the

main street of tranquil Luang Prabang this elegant café-cumrestaurant combines the home-grown ingredients and cuisine of sister bistro L’Éléphant Restaurant with lighter café-style fare including a selection of delectable pastries. Free Wi-Fi. Sakarine Road, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

• LE PATIO CAFÉ – Lao/Café. Housed in the grounds of the

Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre this intimate eatery offers a range of dishes from northern Lao ethnic minorities, making it the perfect stop after immersing yourself in Lao culture next door. Located at the base of Phou Si Hill patrons will enjoy a unique vantage point of this distinctive attraction. Free Wi-Fi. Ban Khamyong, le_patio@elephant-restau.com, elephant-restau.com/ lepatiocafe.html. Open 7 days 9am – 5pm.

• THE SILK ROAD CAFÉ – Lao. Bringing

an east meets west philosophy to the kitchen the Silk Road Café combines regional flavours, local ingredients and ideas from cuisines the silk road passed through. Set against a backdrop of the Mekong River this open-air café is housed on the grounds of the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre making it the perfect spot to grab coffee and a bite after an on-site weaving workshop or demonstration. Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, Ban Saylom, 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 7 days 8am – 5pm.

• SINOUK COFFEE AND BAKERY – Café. A Lao legacy, the well-known Sinouk

Coffee empire has grown from its humble beginnings as a small plantation in the 1990s to a 50 hectare estate and is turning heads across Asia. Pakse’s Sinouk Coffee and Bakery outpost serves up delicious cups of Sinouk’s signature organic blend which comes direct from the farm in Paksong to the table. Free Wi-Fi. Pakse centre, near the Tourism Office, sinouk-cafe.comhttp://www. elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html.

| Sinouk Coffee and Bakery |

SAVANNAKHET • CAFÉ CHEZ BOUNE – Café/Western.

Drawing crowds for great European fare, impressive décor and charming atmosphere, Café Chez Boune is a popular spot for dining out in Savannakhet. Opt for something light such as a tasty bruschetta or baguette or if you’re looking for something more substantial the seared duck breast or tender imported steaks are a good choice. Chaimeuang Road, Xayaphoum Village, 041 215 190, cafechezboune.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/ cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

BAR

Listing

VIENTIANE • JAZZY BRICK – Bar. With its exposed brickwork, moody lighting and distinct vintage-look decor The Jazzy Brick exudes effortless cool. The friendly staff make a mean cocktail and can usually make a recommendation from the extensive menu and the wine list is well-edited. Setthathirat Road (next to Wine95), 021 212 489, facebook. com/jazzybricklaomailto:resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 6pm – 12am.

• STICKY FINGERS – Bar/Western/Lao. Sticky’s, as it’s more affectionately known, is a long-time expat

institution drawing big crowds for their legendary happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights. The bartenders make a mean Tom Yum Martini which, refreshingly piquant, comes complete with a whole chilli garnish. Free WiFi, delivery. 10/3 Rue Francois Nginn, 021 215 972mailto:resa@letangor.com. Open Monday to Friday 5pm – 11pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am – 11pm. – Bar/Belgian. This cosy pub, decorated with Tin Tin paraphernalia, is the place to come if you’ve got a hankering for Hoegaarden or any of the other 79 imported Belgian beers they keep. Huge steaming pots of moules frites attract big crowds every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Free WiFi, beer specials on Thursdays. 32/4 Fa Gnum Quai (along the Mekong River front), 020 5610 3434, chokdeecafe. commailto:resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 10am – 11pm.

• CHOKDEE CAFÉ & BELGIAN BEER BAR

| Chokdee Café & Belgian Beer Bar |

| April 12 |

• APRIL 12 – Bar/Asian. Located on the edge

of the Mekong just before the Don Chan Palace hotel, April 12 has been designed to capitalise on its premiere location. The ground floor features a moodily lit bar and dance floor, but the rooftop is the main attraction. The tables are kept separate from each other with walls of leafy pot plants. There’s a second bar on the roof that serves cocktails, wine and a few varieties of beer. The excellent food is mostly Vietnamese, but the menu does include some foreign and Lao items. Fa Ngum Road, opposite the Don Chan Palace hotel, 020 7798 5444. Open Monday-Saturday 5pm-1am.

• THE SPIRIT HOUSE – Bar/Lao/Western. An

inviting meeting point with a sprawling terrace looking onto the Mekong River. The cocktail list is extensive with quality liquors preferred, perfect for a sundowner paired with tasty Lao bar snacks. It’s located on a quiet stretch of the waterfront which makes for a peaceful breakfast or afternoon drink before it busies up in the evening. Free WiFi. 93/09 Fa Ngum Road, Ban Seetarn Neua, 021 243 795, thespirithouselaos.com, info@ thespirithouselaos.commailto:resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 7am – 11pm.

• BOR PEN NYANG – Bar/Western/Lao.

This casual rooftop bar attracts an eclectic crowd of locals, seasoned expats and backpackers all who vie for a prime position along the balcony to watch the sunset over the Mekong River with a Beerlao nam kohn. Once the night comes things tend to kick up a notch with parties hitting the pool tables and beer towers. Fa Ngum Road, Wat Chanh, 020 5580 8281mailto:resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 11am – 12am.

BAR

Listing

LUANG PRABANG • TANGOR – Bar/Tapas.

Contemporary chic meets colonial charm at this intimate spot on Luang Prabang’s main stretch. Tangor specialises in impeccably crafted cocktails and a generous selection of local and imported beers and ciders. Market produce dictates the everchanging menu of share plates but luckily for us their standout fish ceviche is a mainstay. House 63/6 Rue Susavangvong, 020 9560 7262, resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm.

• HIVE BAR AND RESTAURANT – Bar/ American. This vibrant garden bar is best known for

its snappy cocktails, extensive beer and wine list and for serving up home style southern favourites. Grab a beer and try the mahogany smoked BBQ ribs or pulled pork sandwich. Nightly live entertainment includes Ethnik; a live fashion show of ethnic minority costumes and hip hop performed by local b-boys. Bar Street, Ban Aphay, 020 5999 5370, hivebarlaos.comhttp://www.elephantrestau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 12am, Sunday 10am – 12am.

• ICON KLUB – Cocktail.

This cosy bohemian haunt attracts a creative crowd, and welcomes live music, and hosts open mic poetry nights. Icon’s walls are adorned with vintage posters and film noir stills and punters are most likely to be seen sipping a brilliantly made cocktail (try the Bloody Mary or a dry martini) over a game of chess or retro board game. Free WiFi. Siphouttabath Road, Ban Xiengmouan, 071 254 905, iconklub.comhttp://www.elephantrestau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 5pm – 11.30pm.

| Tangor |

• UTOPIA – Bar/Lao/Western. Hidden on the

lush banks of the Nam Khan river amongst charming tropical gardens and thatched decking Utopia has perfected laid back paradise. Patrons can languidly sip tropical cocktails on the cushioned terrace watching the river go by, play a board game with neighbours or party into the night in a tiki hut. Ban Aphay, 020 2388 1771, utopialuangprabang.comhttp://www. elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 8am – 11.30pm.

| Hive Bar and Restaurant |

RELAX

Listing

VIENTIANE • HERBAL SAUNA This establishment has Lao style

herbal saunas for men and women in separate rooms. It also offers different massages including Lao, oil and foot. Entrance fees include a towel for men but women must rent a sarong for a small fee. Located very close to the Mekong in central Vientiane. Chao Anou Road, 020 5504 5655, 1pm-9pm.

• GREEN PARK CHAMPA LAO SPA This hotel-

based spa is walled-in with dark woods and has snow white beds with trinkets on lockers and candles burning for soft light. They’ve got traditional massage, body exfoliation and expert facial treatments for guests and visitors. Foot massages take place in comfy recliners with a view to the gardens. Green Park Hotel, 12 Khouvieng Road, 021 263 064, 10am-7pm, www. greenparkvientiane.com.

• ADINA SPA This experienced spa team provides

the ultimate pampering. Unlike many others spas, they provide Japanese traditional massages, Indian massages and a Hot Stone Massage. The facials are amongst the most advanced in the city. Higher-end prices. 170 Phonsaath, Kaysone Road, 021 414 138, 9am-10pm, www.adinaspalao.com.

• GIRIYA SPA You’ve got to travel to Rashmi’s Hotel,

3km from the city centre, to reach Giriya, but that’s small sacrifice for the awaiting experience. There’s an Indian atmosphere reflected in the decoration, while Thai masseuses give excellent massages in private rooms. Soon open to membership. Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Road Km3, 021 315 088, www.rashmishotel.com.

• HEALING HANDS MASSAGE & SPA Located

within Don Chan Palace Hotel on the Mekong Riverfront. They offer reflexology, natural aromatherapy oil massages and Lao hot herbal compress treatments within a spacious and warmly coloured parlour. Don Chan Palace Hotel, Fa Ngum Road, 021 244 288, 10am-7pm, www.donchanpalacelaopdr.com.

You’ve got to travel to Rashmi’s Hotel, 3km from the city centre, to reach Giriya, but that’s small sacrifice for the awaiting experience. There’s an Indian atmosphere reflected in the decoration, while Thai masseuses give excellent massages in private rooms. Soon open to membership. Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Road Km3, 021 315 088, www.rashmishotel. com.

The head and back massage is particularly good but it’s possible to get a combination of several treatments. The delightful honey body wrap could be combined with aromatic skin massage, followed by a herbal skin polish. Pangkham Road, facing Lao Plaza Hotel, 021 222 936, 10am-9pm, www.nirvana-spa-laos.com.

• NIRVANA SPA

The setting in an old French colonial villa is charm enough, but inside the opulence is even greater. They’ve a Swedish oil massage, offer facials, body scrubs, reflexology and saunas. It’s definitely one of the pricier in the capital, but well worth it to relax in a state of pure luxury for a few hours. Phanya Sy Road, 021 216 550, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, www. papayaspa.com.

• PAPAYA SPA Champa has two locations in town within serene, quiet surroundings. Traditional Lao Massage, Herbal Treatments, Aromatherapy Massage and Body Steams have a range of lengths and prices. There is also a hand and foot spa, and waxing services. Among the best in Vientiane. Corner of Fa Ngum and Pangkham Roads, near Nam Phu, 021 251 926, 9am-10pm, www. champaspa.com.

• CHAMPA SPA & MASSAGE

About 4km from the city centre, Manee Spa offers consistently good massages in a tranquil setting. There are several private rooms with quality tables and a tasteful interior. It’s on the higher price scale but the setting with beautiful gardens is second to none. Sokpaluang Road, past the Myanmar Embassy, 021 353 207.

• MANEE SPA

This is just a 5-minute walk from the Mekong in the centre of town and they offer advanced massage and body therapies, as well as the traditional foot and body massages. The owners are very friendly and can further elaborate on options available. 45 Settathirath Road, 9am-11pm.

• DALAH SPA Luxurious Dalah Spa have a mineral milk bath, anti-stress back and shoulder treatments, the Four Hands Massage and sports massage for those exerting themselves. Located on a quiet lane just off the main road. 140 Khouvieng Road, 021 285 125, 9am-9pm.

• NIKOLAZ MASSAGE

| Dalah Spa |

• GIRIYA SPA

White Lotus gives excellent foot massages in relaxing leather recliners. It’s one of the more affordable yet consistent massage businesses in town and has a great aromatherapy massage. Try the signature lotus foot massage or the Cleopatra treatment with gold masque for 200,000kip – heavenly. Also does yoga instruction. Pangkham Road, close to Nam Phu, 021 217 492, 10am-10pm.

• WHITE LOTUS MASSAGE & YOGA

Another one of many in the centre of Vientiane, but definitely among the best. The staff is friendly and there’s a few packages to choose from. Otherwise, the Traditional Lao massage is very popular and the Swedish massage is also well worth a try. Pangkham Road, near Nam Phu, 021 223 857, 10am-9.30pm.

• MANDARINA BODY & SOUL SPA

| Giriya Spa |

| Dhammada Oasis Massage |

LUANG PRABANG Tucked away beside a beautiful lotus pond and surrounded by coconut trees, Dhammada provides exceptional massages. There are aroma, oriental and foot massages to ease body tensions and bigger packages to spend a few hours. Very friendly and experienced staff makes Dhammada one of the best in town. Luang Prabang Oasis Hotel, Ban Vixoun, 071 212 642, www. luangprabangoasis.com.

• DHAMMADA OASIS MASSAGE

• AYU SPA At

Xieng Thong Palace Hotel, Ayu Spa is massage and body treatment heaven. Holistic practices performed by experienced therapists are a perfect way to slip into true relaxation. You could spend a half-day sampling the variety of massage and sauna/ steam options, while a pedicure or manicure ties a few hours off. Kounxaou Road, Ban Phoneheung, 071 213 200, www.xiengthongpalace.com.

• KIRIDARA SPA Kiridara Spa’s signature treatment

is the Nuat Bouhan Massage, which lasts 90 minutes and fuses ancient Lao traditions with the regional therapies of Japanese Shiatsu, Thai massage and Chinese acupuncture. They’ve got many packages to choose from and the view over Luang Prabang is stunning. 22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham, 071 261 888, www.snhcollection.com/kiridara.

This is the place to try a superb Thai herbal compress massage. Sanctuary applies steamed Thai and Chinese herbs to the body in a kneading action to release muscle tension and stiffness. There are also aroma and oriental massages in calming rooms. Sanctuary Hotel, Kitsalat Road, 071 213777, www.sanctuaryluangprabang.com.

• SANCTUARY MASSAGE

Set up to help children in poor communities, Lao Red Cross is one of the cheapest in town but with no compromise on quality. Housed in a Lao-French building, try the herbal sauna for 10,000 kip between 4pm-8pm, or go for one of the traditional massages. Bring your own towel or sarong. Wisunarat Road, 071 252 856, 9am-9pm.

• LAO RED CROSS Fully trained and qualified massage therapists mean Dok Champa is an excellent place to relieve stress. They offer sports, aromatic oil, and gel and lotion massage. There are also deep cleansing facials for those looking for complete body rejuvenation. Visounarath Road, Ban Vixoun, 020 7777 9966, www.dokchampamassage.com.

• DOK CHAMPA MASSAGE

Across from Wat Sop, L’Hibiscus has been open for several years and rated amongst the best in town. Hot herbal compress, aromatherapy and even eye treatments are on the menu. L’Hibiscus is in a charming old two-storey building and exudes a soothing atmosphere. 45 Sakhaline Road, 030 923 5079, 10am-10pm.

• L’HIBISCUS SPA

Spread over three locations, The Spa Garden (also known as Aroma Spa) has a deep tissue massage, a Mystic Lao massage and a foot massage with herbal creams amongst its signature treatments. Spa products also available for purchase. Ban Phonheuang, 071 212325, 10am-11pm, www. spagardenlpb.com.

• THE SPA GARDEN

This collective runs classes in yoga and meditation for beginner and experienced practitioners. The group alternates their regular classes between several picturesque riverside locations including Utopia and Ock Pop Tok and holds yoga retreats at Mandala Ou Resort in Nong Khiaw. luangprabangyoga.org.

• LUANG PRABANG YOGA

SEE & DO

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VIENTIANE | i:cat gallery | | Cope Visitor Centre |

• HOUEY HONG VOCATIONAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR WOMEN – Class/Craft. The Centre provides training and employment for disadvantaged Lao women in the areas of natural dyeing, weaving, tailoring and administration. Visitors can tour the facilities and take part in dyeing and weaving classes creating a unique textile to take home, the cost of which includes transfers, lunch and provides direct support to the Centre. The gift shop sells stylish products made on-site by staff and trainees. Lane 19, Houey Hong Village, 021 560 006, Mon-Sat 8.30am–12pm, 1.30pm–4.30pm, www.houeyhongcentre.com.

• I:CAT GALLERY – Gallery. A bright and inviting

gallery space featuring a revolving programme of engaging exhibitions from local artists working in a range of mediums. A collection of original prints, art books, photography, paintings and handmade cards are permanently for sale in the gallery space and past installations and events have included visual art, music, poetry, film and fashion. 230-231 Thanon Settathirath, Ban Simeuang, 020 7783 9674, Mon-Fri 6pm–8pm, Sat-Sun 1pm-6pm, www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

• LAO BOWLING CENTRE – Activity. A friendly – Museum. Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, or COPE, is a locally run non-profit working with partners to provide rehabilitation services for Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) survivors and other people with disabilities across Laos. The Visitor Centre houses a free exhibition about UXO in Laos, stories from survivors and information on the services provided by COPE. Interactive displays, excellent documentaries and imagery provide a thought-provoking experience to visitors. There is an opportunity to support COPE through the gift shop or a donation. Centre of Medical Rehabilitation, Khouvieng Road, 021 218 427, 9am–6pm, 7 days, www.copelaos.org.

• COPE VISITOR CENTRE

– Tour. The perfect way to get back to nature while staying close to your base in Vientiane, Green Discovery Laos takes you to the Nam Ngum Resevoir. En route on this guided day-trip participants will get a first-hand look at Hmong village life to meet locals and visit the market before taking in the 11th century archaeological site of Van Xang. At the reservoir you’ll lunch on a floating restaurant and explore fishing villages and small islands by boat before returning to Vientiane. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

• DAY TRIP TO NAM NGUM LAKE

– Tour. Local tour guides Tuk Tuk Safari specialise in small group educational and interactive tours of Vientiane and surrounds. On this tour patrons will visit the Panyanivej Eco Rice and Fish Farm to have a hand at traditional Lao fishing, rice planting and other farm activities before using fresh farm ingredients to cook a traditional Lao lunch. 020 5433 3089, tours run daytime from Monday to Saturday, www.tuktuksafari.com.

• FROM FARM TO MARKET

place for a game of ten pin by day this unassuming venue is an evening hot spot with crowds flocking here once the regular haunts close. Get here in the early evening if you actually plan to get in a few rounds because by eight o’clock this joint is packed with locals having a laugh over Beerlao and interesting bowling techniques. But bor pen nyang, half the fun is kicking back with friends and waiting for a free lane. There are also snooker tables available for hire. Boulevard Khunbulom (near the National Stadium), 9am–late, 7 days.

• LAO DISABLED WOMEN’S DEVELOPMENT CENTRE – Tour/Craft. A local non-profit run by

women with disabilities for women with disabilities. In a beautiful setting near the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge the Centre is a hive of activity with training programmes including sewing and needlework, social development and women’s civil rights. Visitors can tour the centre, buy locally-made handicrafts including accessories, fashion items and homewares and learn how they are made. Thadeua Road, Hadsayfong District, 021 812282, 8.30am–5pm, 7 days, www.laodisabledwomen. com. | Lao Disabled Women's Development Centre |

| Lao Experiences Cooking Class and Food Tours |

• LAO EXPERIENCES COOKING CLASS AND FOOD TOURS – Class/Tour. Join friendly host Nook

as she teaches you to cook popular Lao dishes with fresh ingredients and traditional methods. These fun and interactive classes are held in a leafy garden kitchen by the Mekong River, the perfect setting to throw together a tasty laap or mok pa (banana leaf steamed fish) all of which you’ll devour at the end of class. The additional tour of the largest fresh market in Vientiane is great for those new to Lao ingredients. Bookings at The Full Moon Café or via lao-experiences.com, 020 5569 9429. Classes and Market Tours conducted daily.

• VIENTIANE BYCYCLE – Tour. Explore Vientiane

on two wheels in either a guided half or full-day tour allowing you to uncover a different side to the city. You’ll follow the gentle curve of the Mekong River to explore nearby scenic villages and observe fishermen and local temples. Back in the city centre you’ll pass touristic highlights like glittering temples, the grand Presidential Palace, Patuxai and That Luang while also venturing off the beaten path to capture scenes of Lao daily life in sleepy residential areas. 020 5581 2337, Tours run daily 8am to 5pm, www.vientianebycycle.com.

LUANG PRABANG – Tour. Get up close to magnificent pachyderms at this tourist destination operated by international specialists and volunteers who aim to rescue, protect and rehabilitate elephants in Laos. There are a myriad of activities on offer for visitors including thrilling elephant rides, bathing elephants in the Nam Kahn River, a basic mahout training course and feedings. You can also stay overnight in on-site accommodation, aptly named the Elephant Lodge. To book and for more information visit elephantvillage-laos. com. Tours run 7 days.

• ELEPHANT VILLAGE

| Elephant Village |

• OCK POP TOK LIVING CRAFTS CENTRE – Class/Craft. Take part in a fun hands-on workshop

and learn traditional weaving and dying techniques from skilled Lao artisans at this handicrafts centre set in lush tropical gardens overlooking the Mekong River. A variety of classes suitable for a range of skill levels are on offer or you could visit the weaving centre for a free tour and observe weavers at their craft. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi Market), 071 212 597, 9am–5pm, 7 days, www.ockpoptok.com.

| Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre|

– Class. This popular cooking class, run by the restaurant of the same name, has been schooling students in the art of laap for years. Participants will first check out ingredients at a local fresh market then head to Tamarind’s lake-side cooking school to cook and, more importantly, eat. The menu consists of a range of Lao classics including jeow spicy dipping sauces and Tamarind’s signature chicken and herb-stuffed lemongrass. To book and for more information visit tamarindlaos.com. Full day classes Mon-Sat 9am– 3pm, evening classes Mon-Fri 4pm–8.30pm.

• TAMARIND COOKING SCHOOL

| Tamarind Cooking School |

PAKSE • KOFFIE’S COFFEE WORKSHOP PAKSONG – Tour. Explore Southern Laos’ renowned coffee country and see just how beans make it into your morning cup of Joe. You will visit Koffie’s own organic coffee plantation and farm when you’ll see arabica growing, picked, then learn about the husking and drying processes. After lunch you’ll get hands-on in roasting arabica beans yourself and brew yourself a flavourful cup of aromatic java. For more information visit paksong.info/laos_coffee_workshop. php, 020 2276 0439, coffee@paksong.info.

• SINOUK COFFEE RESORT – Garden. A must-

see if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, Sinouk is a name synonymous with coffee in Laos. Surrounding the resort are palatial landscaped gardens which include coffee plants, rock gardens, a lake and waterfalls. Visitors can enjoy a signature locally grown cup of coffee from Sinouk’s nearby plantation in the pavilion restaurant or cafe. For more information visit sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

| Sinouk Coffee Resort |

• TREE TOP EXPLORER AT JUNGLE HOTEL PAKSONG – Tour. Green Discovery Laos lead an

unforgettable adventure in an unparalleled South East Asian mountain forest setting of Champassak province. This tour is not for the faint-hearted with zip-lining over gorges and waterfalls and breathtaking views from a canopy walkway leading to great fun in a stunning environment. Retire to the Jungle Hotel Paksong a cluster of private treehouses set amongst the lush forest. The ultimate experience in nature. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com. | Tree Top Explorer |

SHOP

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VIENTIANE

| Monument Books |

Monument Books has good-sized fiction and regional literature sections, as well as children’s travel, arts and history shelves. Travel guidebooks are available and Southeast Asian newspapers and international magazines are just inside the door. Nokeokoummane Road, 021 243 708, Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm, www.monument-books. com.

• MONUMENT BOOKS

• SAOBAN CRAFTS A treasure trove of handmade

handicrafts created by over 300 artisans from villages across Laos. In store you’ll find unique woven baskets and textiles, exquisite homewares and contemporary jewellery with most goods crafted from natural dyes, local bamboo and organically grown cotton and proceeds going back to the artist. 97/1 Chao Anou Road, MonSat 9am–8pm, Sun 1pm–8pm, www.saobancrafts.com.

• LAO FINE ARTS HANDICRAFT JEWELLERY

Superbly crafted, resplendent jewellery made from wood, coconut and silver can be bought here. Other contemporary and more traditional items can also be purchased. 550/01 Thatluang Tai Village, Saysettha District, 020 5542 6993, 9.30am-5.30pm.

• MINISTRY OF SILK The Ministry of Silk displays a

vast array of fine men’s and women’s clothing, fashion accessories, jewellery and handbags. The label is Laos’ first ready-to-wear collection and this flagship is one of the most prestigious stores in Vientiane, serving champagne and wine to customers. 99/01 Nam Phou Square, 021 213 776, 9am-9pm, 7 days, www. ministryofsilk.com.

| Carol Cassidy Textiles |

• NIGHT MARKET Drawing hordes of tourists and

locals to the riverside each evening you simply can’t miss the two rows of red-topped marquees along the waterfront mingling with smoky food stalls and mountainous balloon displays. The wares on sale may be aimed predominately towards tourists (think t-shirts, trinkets and Buddhist inspired art) but locals shop here too and there are plenty of bargains to be had. Mekong riverfront, Fa Ngum Road, Sunset-9pm, 7 days. Radiant silks and authentic handicrafts line the walls of Finer Things. The shop, set over two floors, has a flowing selection of traditional Lao skirts, colourful silks and figurines made from the delicate material. 34/03 Francois Ngin Road, 9am-6.30pm.

• FINER THINGS

A delightful gallery and crafts store featuring works from local and visiting artists and producing and selling the Les Artisans Lao range of organic skincare and beauty products. The range includes luscious body creams and soaps, all-natural repellents and aromatic oils. Vat Inpeng Street, 021 223 178, Mon-Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 10am–6pm, www. artisanslao.com.

• T’SHOP LAI GALLERY

• CAROL CASSIDY TEXTILES Intricate traditional

Lao textiles are displayed in this beautiful galleryworkshop whose local weavers have exhibited in US museums. Carol works alongside local weavers to produce some incredibly complex and attractive pieces, specialising in 100% hand-woven silk. Noekummane Road, Ban Mixay, Mon-Fri 8am-12pm & 2pm-5pm, Sat 8am-12pm, www.laotextiles.com.

LUANG PRABANG • MA TE SAI A boutique shop with shelves of original

souvenirs and handicrafts. The store seeks to help local people by working with them to sell their products and improve their livelihoods. Many of the souvenirs are made from recycled paper, bamboo and other natural materials. Sisangvong Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 071 260 654, 8am-9pm, www.matesai.com.

• PHOSI MARKET A small distance away from the centre of town lies Phosi Market. This space sees every smell, sound and sight stake a corner as meat, spices, fresh vegetables, and fruits live side by side with those selling phones, watches and house wares. If you’re after a glimpse of local life, don’t miss this. Photisalath Road, south of Phou Vao Rd, 7am-5pm.

This is a non-profit self-help project that supports village women by providing a space for them to sell their goods to a wider audience. Handmade products show off traditional patterns and craft techniques and make excellent mementos or gifts. Ounkham Road, Ban Wath Nong, Luang Prabang, 071 254594, www.camacrafts.org.

| Ma Te Sai |

• CARUSO LAO All products in here are handmade from

| Passa Paa |

• CAMA CRAFTS

wood or silk and wholly produced in Laos, overseen by the shop’s Canadian owner. There are wooden bowls, bed spreads, Buddha heads and cushions to catch the customer’s eye. Sakkarine Road, 071 254574, 9am9pm, www.carusolao.com.

• NIGHT MARKET Down the length of Sisavangvong

Rd is the city’s famous Night Market. Weave under awnings to admire handicrafts such as rosewood carvings and silver jewellery, alongside herbal teas, rice paper diaries and beautiful linen dresses. It’s a friendly market and bargains are to be had. Sisangvong Road, 5pm-11pm, 7 days (weather dependent).

• OCK POP TOK A shop with a difference. Ock Pop

Tok seeks to empower local women by developing their artistic skills and sells their items. Woven textiles, bags and scarves are on offer, while they also run classes for visitors who want to try their hand at production or just admire artisans at work. The group also has a flagship store in Ban Vat Nong. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Sene, 071 253 219, 8am-9pm, www.ockpoptok.com.

• TRADITIONAL ARTS & ETHNOLOGY CENTRE

Although better known as a museum, the centre also supports over 500 handicraft producers from across Laos. They sell beaded necklaces, belts, backpacks, jewellery and lots of other items that showcase the enormous ethnic diversity of Laos. Kitsalat Road, Ban Khamyong, 071 253 364, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm, www. taeclaos.org.

• L’ETRANGER BOOKS & TEA This quaint book

café lies close to the Nam Khan River and sells secondhand books. It’s well-stocked and has novels in many languages that cover the arts, travel, fiction, culture and regional history. Over 70 varieties of tea are for sale upstairs. Phousi Road, Ban Aphay, 071 212 880, MonSat 7am-10pm, Sun 10am-10pm.

| Ma Te Sai |

The culmination of British and Lao creative minds, this store is the shopfront for the textile and accessories label of the same name. The label explores the language of desing that has evolved in Laos to re-think, re-interpret, and re-construct patterns, symbols and forms into contemporary bags, scarves, purses and more. 79 Ban Vat Sene, 020 5541 1244, 7 days 8am-8pm, www.passa-paa.com.

• PASSA PAA

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Perfect for an extended stay Parkview offers well-appointed serviced apartments in studio, one or Vientiane with easy access to Wattay International Airport Parkview offers modern amenities to the business -

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| iHouse |

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| Ansara Hotel |

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| Salana Boutique Hotel |

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touches like four-poster beds with down feather pillows and hardwood

www.setthapalace.com E-mail: reservations@setthapalace.com 6 Pang Kham Street, Vientiane, Lao PDR | Settha Palace Hotel |

A Belmont International Hotel

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– Boutique.

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renowned as one of the most exquisite structures in the airport transfers and city tours in one of two immaculate

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| Riverside Boutique Resort |

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Mid range.

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MAP OF VIENTIANE

VIENTIANE As the nation's capital, Vientiane is a must-experience city when traveling through Laos. Vientiane became the capital in 1563 because of fears surrounding Burmese invasion. Under French rule, it became the administrative capital and in recent times the city has emerged as the country's economic hub. Sitting on the northern banks of the Mekong river, the city has a colourful culture, amazing hospitality and is home to an enviable local and international dining scene. With its French colonial characteristics and leafy boulevards surrounded by rustic temples and coconut palms, this is a city that mixes colonial architecture with a tropical environment. The laidback atmosphere is ideal for visitors, and it is rapidly becoming one of the most fascinating cities to see in Asia.

www.muangthonglpb.com

MUANGTHONG HOTEL

“Our hotel is your hotel” Discover a destination that combines style and authenticity with the romance and charm of Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Center.

Enjoy the peace of mind when it comes to Ticketing - Reservation or even Flight Check-in. Managed by Lao Airlines we bring it right to you at our hotel

Our other services include:

Swimming Pool Airport transfer Restaurant Souvenir store Wi�i, Internet Service Meeting room Money Exchange Bicycle, motorbike, Car rental Tour Desk Peacefully located on the discreet side of town, Muangthong is easily accessible with only a few blocks away from all the attractions like Phousi, Royal Palace, Prabang Museum and Luang Prabang Night Market Oupalath Khamboua Rd., Ban Thatluang, Luang Prabang District, Luang Prabang Laos For more information Tel : (+856 71) 254 976 Fax : (+856 71) 252 974 Email : mthotel@laoairlines.com rsv@muangthonghotel.com www.muangthonghotel.com