Savona da Vedere English Version

just rea d it!

Savona & Albissole

guided sightseeing tours through the town centre and environs

N IIO ON S S R R E E V V H H S LIIS GL NG E EN

P A M D 3 E L B A H and e r t n DETeAtC e own c S RES of th T R O F AR PRIAM

BEACHES - HISTORICAL BACKGROUND SHOPPING PLACES - ART - CULTURE PRIAMAR FORTRESS - RESTAURANTS ACCOMODATION - BARS - HOTELS ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISOLA SUPERIORE

Benvenuti! Welcome! Bienvenue! Willkommen! Bienvenidos!

We are truly proud to introduce to you the second edition of SIGHTESEEING IN SAVONA, ALBISSOLA MARINA AND ALBISOLA SUPERIORE. Two tours have been added to this new edition: one is dedicated to our beach-clubs, summer ultimate hot spots for tourists of all ages, while another itinerary is focused on the town’s religious tradition and explains why Savona is also known as the Popes’ Town. But the true news is that, thanks to the cooperation of the Town’s Administration and the Bureau of Culture and Tourism, who have contributed to the creation of a primary tool for basic touristic reception, this edition is published for the first time in its English version!

The aim of this guide is to let you know about everything Savona and its environs offer to tourists. Here attached you will find a town map to guide you while you’re walking around the town. We have highlighted the most important monuments, curios, traditions, handicraft and specialty shops, hoping to make your stay as pleasant as possible and eventually convince you it is worth coming back. Savona and the two “Albisolas” are now “one reality” and one day is not enough to make you say you really know them. Get lost in the age-old “caruggi” and go searching for unique tastes: try the traditional fried food shops hidden along the narrow medieval streets, enjoy fette, farinata, chinotto, pesto and walnut sauces. Discover the tradition of Ligurian wines: may be they’re still not as famous as their “cousins” from Piedmont, yet they are a true revelation for tasters and wine lovers.Try and match a bottle of Pigato with fish food or one of Rossese with Cima or Pasqualina pie, do not forget to try Lumassina, the typical wine from the vineyards around Savona.

Discover the numerous museums, monuments and ancient palaces. Do not miss Priamar Fortress: entrance is free, in a few seconds you will enjoy the atmosphere of an original medieval stronghold and while walking around the counterforts you will feast your eyes on the whole Riviera.

Reach the Old Wet Docks area and enjoy a coffee break or a happy hour event in one of the numerous bars, lounge bars and restaurants which are the very heart of the town’s nightlife. Need some souvenirs? Visit the ceramic kilns in Albissola Marina or Albisola Superiore and choose from the innumerable world famed ceramic pieces made in the two “Albisolas”. In the outskirts you will discover the secrets of glass making or vintage Ligurian Olive Oils and wines.

Do not miss to taste “Chinotto from Savona”, but also enjoy the many trendy, fashion label shops and boutiques which will make your shopping sprees simply unforgettable. The mild climate all year long makes Savona an ideal place where to live: in summer, the beaches become the venue for innumerable events: they are the ideal place where to spend a relaxing and refreshing day and they become nightlife hot spots where to dance the night away. Do not forget that Savona is also a pilgrimage destination: at only 8 km from the town centre, discover the stately Santuario di Nostra Signora della Misericordia (Shrine of Our Lady of Mercy) where the Virgin Mary appeared in 1536; enjoy the traditional Good Friday Procession which takes place on Good Friday night, every two years, and has now become an internationally renowned event. At some Oratories around the town you will also have the chance to admire some of the impressive “casse” (massive wooden sculptural groups), which are carried around the town centre on the shoulders of the members of the town’s age-old “Confraternite”, fraternal orders. We wish to give you the chance to enjoy such a pleasant a stay in town to make you feel like coming back and we do hope your own experience in town will eventually become the best advertising campaign to let people know that there’s a new atmosphere in town and Liguria has finally learnt how to pamper its guests!

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Mare e Spiagge Seaside and beaches Pictures by Danilo Olivieri and Ass. Bagni Marini

FORNACI BEACH FIREWORKS 25th July 2009 SUMMER CARNIVAL PARADE 2nd August 2009 TRADITIONAL “POSA DEI LUMINI” 14th August 2009 GAMES WITHOUT FRONTIERS 15th August 2009

If you really want to fully enjoy a summer day in Savona, you cannot miss its sandy beaches. Few people know that despite being a relatively small town, Savona has interminable sandy or shingle beaches to offer.The shutdown of most industries and the efficient purification plant keep the water unpolluted and Savona has been awarded the Blue Flag eco-label both for the high standard of the “Le Fornaci” beach and the Old Wet Docks landing stage. Take a short walk from the town centre and reach dozens of beach clubs providing for all kinds of comforts and ready to welcome you for a relaxing sunbath and a refreshing swim.

Savona All the town’s beach clubs are located on the west-side of the town’s seashore and create an ideal colourful carrousel of parasols and bathing-huts, commencing from Piazzale Eroe dei Due Mondi and reaching as far as Vado Ligure. Many of these clubs are

historic places, inaugurated at the beginning of the XXth century and frequented by generations of Savonese and tourists from the environs. Most of them have lately undergone careful restoration in order to cater to a more and more particular and diverse clientele. Beach club owners and managers are eager to try and satisfy even the most demanding guests and will be pleased to welcome you with special offers for tourists. To reach the beaches is truly simple as they are but a short walk from the town centre. Walk along Corso Italia and in a few minutes you

will reach the “Prolungamento a Mare” public park were the beach-club strip starts. To reach “Le Fornaci” neighbourhood and choose from other numerous facilities, just walk along the promenade and get across the bridge over Letimbro Stream. As an alternative, try the Spiaggiabus shuttle service, a complimentary bus service offered by ACTS that will take you all along Savona bay.

Albissola Marina and Albisola Superiore Just 2 Km east of Savona you will find two of the most remarkable holiday resorts of the western Riviera: Albissola Marina and Albisola Superiore.

Both towns have been awarded the Blue Flag eco-label for their unpolluted sea and high-standard beach facilities. Here you will find some of the widest and longest beaches of the whole Riviera; beach clubs have lately been challenging one another to show off the trendiest, poshiest and most stylish architectural design.

Almost magically, these day-time classy beach-clubs transform into nightlife hot-spots, discos and music pubs that draw nightlife lovers from all over the region and environs to the town.

You can easily reach Albissola on foot, as it is just a 20 minutes’ walk from Savona, or enjoy a short bus-ride, departing from the Old Wet Dock bus stop, near the “Torretta”.

The Savona Beach Club Association is very active and creative. Every year it sponsors important summer events to make your summer holidays unforgettable. Do not miss the Fireworks Show from the sea on July 25th, with music and dinner-parties at most beach-clubs. Enjoy the traditional “Posa dei Lumini” on August 14th when, around 10.30 p.m. all along the coast from Celle to Vado, thousands of candles are lit and left to float on the sea. If the weather is nice, all the candles gently float off-shore and magically illuminate the sea. The candles are offered by the Beach Club owners and all you have to do is to ask for one “Lumino” and leave it to float on the dark water after making a wish upon… a candle! People say that if your candle floats offshore and joins the others, then your wish will come true by the end of the year.

Last, but not least, join the Summer Carnival Parade, which will take place on August 2nd this year. All beach clubs participate with their own carriage and go parading all through the town centre. The carnival has now become a traditional summer event involving all the beach clubs’ clients who have fun designing and manufacturing the carriage decorations and parade costumes.

20 09 .

D TO AILY BE FAR US E O ED N

BY WE TH EK E E DA ND YS OF JU LY

20 OF % F VO UC HE R

A STONE’S THROW FROM THE TOWN CENTRE: SANDY BEACH, SWIMMING POOL, BAR, RESTAURANT, BABY-CLUB, BEACH-VOLLEY COURT - 15R, VIA GIORDANO PH:019806619

Via Cimarosa 2r-4r - Tel.019.853200 - www.bagnarci.com In a unique setting, where the town and the sea become one, Bagnarci beach club is beach sports’ lovers hot spot. Enjoy the bar and restaurant on the lovely terrace, the perfectly equipped beach, the usual beach club comfort plus numerous extras: a professional beach volleyball court, a beach tennis court, table tennis, a playground for children, canoes and pedalos for sea-lovers. The beach has been awarded the Blue Flag Eco-label by the F.e.e. – Foundation for Environmental Education for the high environmental standards it meets.

Stabilimenti Balneari Beach Clubs BAGNI KARIBU BAGNI BLU BEACH BAGNI S.PIETRO BAGNI COLTON BAY BAGNI VALERIO BAGNARCI BAGNI ANNA BAGNASCIUGA CHIOSCO BAR FABIUS CIRCOLO SPORTIVO W.A.S. CENTRO TURISTICO ARISTON MARE BAGNI AURORA BAGNI BARBADORO BAGNI CAVOUR BAGNI COLOMBO BAGNI IL CORSARO CAMPING VITTORIA BAGNI IRIS BAGNI ITALIA BAGNI LA PERGOLA BAGNI MAREA BAGNI MARINELLA BAGNI LIDO AZZURRO BAGNI LIDO DEI PINI BAGNI LIGURE BAGNI LA PLAYA BAGNI NETTUNO BAGNI NILO BAGNI OLIMPIA CAMPING CHARLY BAGNI S.ANTONIO BAGNI S.CRISTOFORO BAGNI SAVONA BAGNI SIRENA SOC.STELLA MARINA PARCO VACANZE SNC BAGNI TORINO BAGNI UMBERTO BAGNI WANDA SPIAGGIA RAPHAEL BAGNI LIDO BAGNI SPORT BAGNI ACQUA LIMPIDA BAGNI COLOMBO BAGNI MADONNETTA BAGNI MIRAMARE BAGNI NETTUNO BAGNI S.ANTONIO BAGNI SIRENA BAGNI CAVIGLIA BAGNI GOLDEN BEACH BAGNI LA CONCHIGLIA BAGNI LIDO AZZURRO BAGNI LIDO DELLA PALMA BAGNI L'ULTIMA SPIAGGIA BAGNI ONDINA BAGNI PESCETTO BAGNI PINO BAGNI PLAVA LAGUNA BAGNI MOBY DICK BAGNI SAINT TROPEZ BAGNI SORRISO BAGNI ULISSE

VIA AURELIA 19 VIA AURELIA VIA AURELIA 7 L.MARE MATTEOTTI 23 L.MARE MATTEOTTI 23 CIMAROSA 2-4 rosso PASS.TA W. TOBAGI 9 VIA NIZZA 97/A R VIA NIZZA VIA NIZZA 97 rosso VIA GIORDANO 15 R PASS.TA WALTER TOBAGI 1 VIA CIMAROSA 29 rosso C.SO VITTORIO VENETO 45 rosso C.SO VITTORIO VENETO 43 rosso VIA NIZZA 39 rosso VIA NIZZA 111/113 PASS.TA W. TOBAGI 3 P.ZZA 4 STAGIONI 1 rosso L.MARE DEI CERAMISTI 5 rosso VIA NIZZA 89 rosso CORSO VITTORIO VENETO 31 R VIA NIZZA 105 rosso VIA NIZZA 85 rosso PASS.TA W. TOBAGI 13 VIA NIZZA 103 rosso C.SO VITTORIO VENETO 39 rosso PASS.TA W. TOBAGI 7 C.SO VITTORIO VENETO 41 rosso VIA NIZZA 96 R VIA NIZZA 3 B rosso VIA NIZZA 5 A rosso P.ZZA EROI 2 MONDI 9 rosso PASS.TA W. TOBAGI 11 VIA NIZZA 107 rosso C.SO VITTORIO VENETO 35 rosso VIA NIZZA 25 A rosso PASS.TA W. TOBAGI 5 VIA NIZZA 59 rosso

C.SO BIGLIATI 8 C.SO BIGLIATI

P.ZZA S.ANTONIO C.SO BIGLIATI 14 VIA AURELIA (RIO TERMINE) COSO BIGLIATI C.SO BIGLIATI C.SO VITTORIO VENETO VIA BIGLIATI (AURELIA) CORSO FERRARI CORSO FERRARI VIA COLOMBO (CAPO) VIA AL MARE 17 VIA BALBI LUNGOMARE C.SO FERRARI L.MARE COLOMBO VIA BALBI VIA AL MARE LOCALITA' TORRE C.SO FERRARI LUNGOMARE VIA MATTEOTTI LUNGOMARE LUNGOMARE PASS.TA E. MONTALE 34

VADO LIGURE VADO LIGURE VADO LIGURE VADO LIGURE VADO LIGURE SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA SAVONA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISSOLA MARINA ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE ALBISOLA SUPERIORE

019 881068 019 881188 347 9013686 019 2160257 019 885190 019 853200 019 820930 392 5833585 3385005254 019 852612 019 806619 019 800085 019 811377 349 6864340 019 805596 019 263183 019 881439 019 829527 019 805651 019 882332 019 264065 019 804785 019 881100 019 862219 019 8338119 019 883955 347 4620782 019 800797 019 824870 3.472.229.756 019 808455 347 2344046 019 827962 019 812876 019 881844 019 806403 019 263029 019 822737 347 3540613 019 480211 019 480555 019 489442 019 480869 320 1786090 019 480285 019 480859 019 489365 019 483375 019 489625 019 480173 019 488214 019 480694 019 486744 019 487942 019 488588 019 488111 019 486102 019 4004625 019 489041 019 480911 019 486741 019 485632

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Itinerario Storico The old town centre Pictures by Tiziana Adorno and Lorenzo Testa

he wet-dock movable bridge is the starting point for this tour. In front of you, you will see the Quarda Tower, the age-old town symbol, better known as the “Torretta”. Built in the XIVth century, it is the gateway to the town. Cross the street and you will reach the very heart of the old town centre: a pleasant walk along Via Paleocapa arcades, called “portici”, will give you a taste of the town’s atmosphere.

Go on for about 500 metres and look to your right to observe the several historic palaces dating back to the XIXth century; turn right into Via Mistrangelo and reach Piazza Diaz to discover Chiabrera Theatre, one of the most beautiful still-in-use neo-classical theatres in Italy. Inaugurated in 1853, it was built in the ditch previously separating the high town from the old town. It presently offers its audience a rich theatrical season with plays, concerts, operas and ballets performed by national and international stars.

Info and programmes at the ticket and booking office: 9 am 12 pm and 3-5 p.m. every day.

Walk along Via dei Mille and you will reach Piazza Marconi with its remarkable Fontana del Pesce (The Fish Fountain) by Renata

T Time: 2 hrs.

Length: 4 km Level: easy, pleasant walk

Accessible

The “Peacocks” Palace in Via Paleocapa The “Man fighting a Shark” Fountain

The Chiabrera Theatre Cuneo. The 1965 sculptural group is made of a three-pool fountain, where a round shaped upper pool pours water into two smaller, semi-lunar ones. In the middle of the main pool, surrounded by sparkling jets, rises the statue entitled “La lotta tra l’uomo e lo squalo” (Man fighting a shark).

On your left, the multiscreen cinema shows national premières and international blockbusters. Walk on into Piazza Saffi, also called “delle Palme” where you can see the Palazzo della Prefettura, formerly “del Governo”. We recommend you should now head back to the town centre and have a walk along Corso Italia, the main street which splits the town into its

Mameli Square and the War Memorial

north and south. A short walk among the age-old buildings and you will get back to Via Paleocapa. Turn right and you will reach Mameli Square with its Monumento ai Caduti “Rintocchi e Memorie” (Tolls and Memories War Memorial). The square is surrounded by an arcade which allows a practical and easy round. On Mondays, do not miss the weekly open-air market on Piazza del Popolo Square, just a few blocks away along Via Paleocapa, where the hundreds of stalls will provide for everything you may possibly need. On your way back, at the crossing with Corso Italia, make a right turn and find yourselves in the elegant town centre and pedestrian area. Go on till you reach Piazza Sisto IV and admire the refined Town Hall Building. The square is often used as a venue for social events. In winter, the ice skating rink usually installed here makes the square the most popular wintry meeting place for the town’s youth. Keep walking along Corso Italia as far as the next square, Piazza Giulio II, also known as Piazza del Vecchio Ospedale San Paolo (Old St. Paul’s Hospital Square) whose main building has been awaiting

massive renovation for ages. Especially in springtime, we suggest you should keep walking along the main street as far as the beach. You could visit “Dante Alighieri” public park and have a look at the Tempietto Boselli (Boselli Temple) dating back to 1700. The small temple was executed by the ceramist of the same name, saved from the demolition of the “Fabbrica Boselli” (Boselli’s workshop) in 1931 and eventually restored to be placed in this public garden. At the end of the boulevard, the sea and the “Eroe dei due Mondi” Square (Two Worlds’ hero) with Garibaldi’s Monument. The remarkable and massive statue by sculptor Leonardo Bistolfi, was positioned in such a way as to direct the condottiere’s look towards Nice - the national hero’s hometown - and it was inaugurated in 1927 by Garibaldi’s grandson. Towards the west, the Vado Bay reaches as far as Bergeggi Isle (Natural Reserve), whereas, towards the east, you will find the Public Swimming Pool.

The Trento e Trieste Slope will take you up to a belvedere over the ancient industrial area of the port which has lately undergone huge reconversion works. On your left,

Every day, at six o’ clock sharp, everybody who happens to be walking or driving on Piazza Mameli, stops for a few moments to commemorate the Fallen in every war, while the chime tolls for 21 times, one for each letter of the alphabet. The monument is a work by sculptor Luigi da Venzano from Sestri.

The Boselli Temple

TOWN PICTURE GALLERY OPENING HOURS Mon-Wed-Fri 8.30 a.m - 1 p.m.

Tue-Thur 2-7 p.m.

Sun. 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Tickets: adults: € 4 children: € 2 Guided tours available upon request: € 5 SISTINE CHAPEL OPENING HOURS: Sun.: 10-12; 4 pm/6 pm Sat.: 4 pm/6 pm Monday da April-October 10-12

The Sistine Chapel

the secondary entrance to the Priamar Fortress (read sightseeing tour n. 2 before or while visiting). This entrance is seldom open to the public.

On your way back, you will reach the Town Hall Square again, get across it and enter Via Santa Maria Maggiore, the gateway to the medieval town centre. The first square you will encounter is called Piazza Chabrol with Palazzo Gavotti, seat of the Town Picture Gallery. The gallery is open every day (see the timetable aside) and it houses one of the most prestigious art collections in Liguria. Make a right turn at the corner and there you are, in Piazza del Vescovato. The palace you are facing is the Bishop’s Palace erected in 1787 above a wing of old St. Francis’ Cloister. Pius VII’s apartment - where the Pope was held captive by the French, from 1809 to 1812 - can be visited upon appointment. The apartment displays the original furniture from early 1800’s, though the Diocesan Museum fit-out is still to be completed. Go on but a few steps and you will reach the Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) and the entrance to the Sistine Chapel. Our Lady of the Assumption’s Cathedral was erected in 1605 to replace the ancient cathedral previously located on the Priamar stronghold. Do not miss the monumental wooden choir which, after careful restoration, fully displays its pristine splendour. Of the original Franciscan complex the cathedral was built above, two conspicuous parts are

The Cathedral

still existing, two cloisters and the Sistine Chapel Pope Sixtus IV had erected as a mausoleum for his parents in 1481, together with Rome’s same-name one. This monumental complex is one of those definitely not to miss when visiting Savona. At the bottom of the Square, on the left, Piazza Vacciuoli opens up to take you back to Via Pia, the very heart of the old town centre. A short stop beneath Brandale Tower which competes with the Torretta for the title of town symbol. Next to the tower you will see the remains of both Corsi and Guarnero Towers dating back to the XIIth century and lowered upon Genoa’s orders, between years 1544 and 1552. Also the Brandale Tower suffered the same fate but it was rebuilt, from 1931 to 1933, and brought back to its pristine height. It is now time for you to retrace your steps and walk back all along Via Pia. A few metres and there you are, underneath Della Rovere Palace overlooking the square bearing the same name. Have a look at the numerous Renaissance buildings along Via Pia, which are all really worth loo-

long traditional Via Paleocapa Portici (the street’s open gallery) you will find a small shop ready to surprise you.

Laura’s Corner Shop will celebrate 25 years in business and is eager to welcome you to the celebration.

In this exceptionally well-stocked tobacconist’s you will find everything you may possibly think of : from a lottery , football pools and car taxes office, to pre-paid phone cards and phone card recharge services, from stamps to Western Union money transfer services.

Choose from the wide selection of premium quality Cuban cigars the shop is specialized in, select the ideal gift from the t-shirt or funny gadgets collections or just pick up a birthday or greeting card from the stands.

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Via Paleocapa 80r Tel.019.823886 Lottery Office N.488 Savona

L’ANGOLO DI LAURA

Every monday on Piazza del Popolo, at the bottom of Via Paleocapa

Monday Market on Piazza del Popolo tinerant markets are one of the town age-old traditions and in the old town centre you can still breathe the atmosphere of a typical medieval village. Open-air markets are a age-old and yet irreplaceable

I

form of trade: markets are close to people’s needs and tastes, as the stallkeepers usually take utmost care of the relationship with their customers rather than of pure commercial logic.

For these reasons, we suggest you should choose from the numerous itinerant markets of our province and discover our traditions and customs while blending the pleasure of both a sightseeing tour and a shopping spree. Take a stroll around open-air markets and find a wide range of interesting and good value items. To avoid unpleasant rip-offs, remember never to buy from unauthorized sellers and always choose public openair markets for excellent bargainhunting!

The “Brandale” Tower

king at, before once again reaching Via Paleocapa.

On your way back towards the old wet dock, enjoy a brief detour upon reaching St. Andrew’s church. Take the short slope opposite the church, re-enter the caruggi (the typical Ligurian narrow streets) running down towards the port and enjoy the sight of the age-old portals along Via Quarda Superiore and Inferiore. Upon leaving the old town centre, you will find yourselves right on the old wet dock, the heart of the town’s nightlife, with its many restaurants and bistros where to treat yourselves to a well deserved break. If you still have some time available, we recommend you should continue your sightseeing tour and discover the Priamar Fortress, just a 5 minutes’ walk from here.

The “Quarda Tower” or Torretta

IF YOU WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT IT: If you wish to learn more about the history of the town, we suggest you should read these volumes, available in all bookstores in town I TESORI D’ARTE DEL CENTRO STORICO DI SAVONA Marco Sabatelli Editore 8 Euro

LA CAPPELLA SISTINA DI SAVONA Marco Sabatelli Editore 21 Euro

Via Paleocapa, 147r on the corner of Piazza Mameli Tel. 019.829803 Fax 019.853953

aettone’s Chemist’s shop has been the town’s historic pharmacy since early 1900’s. Located in Via Paleocapa, on the corner with Piazza Mameli, the shop has been owned and directed by Doctor Ida Galatolo since 1971. The shop display-area covers 300 of the overall 700 square metre business premises.

Besides medicines, remedies and nonprescription drugs, the shop offers a

S

wide range of products from childcare to dietetics, toys, beauty products, special food for celiacs, nephropatics and diabetics, shoes and medical aids, homeopathic and herbal remedies, vet care and dental care. It is possible to make reservations for the healthcare national service and have your blood or blood pressure tested. The chemist’s is open every night all through the year.

APERTA TUTTE LE NOTTI DALLE 19,30 ALLE 8,30

3

Itinerario Priamar The Priamar Pictures by Tiziana Adorno, Andrea Bruno and Lorenzo Testa

Time: 2 hrs.

Length: 3 km Level: easy, but with some ups and downs Partially accessible

Del Maschio Square pon entering Savona, tourists find themselves facing massive Priamar Fortress.

Built by the Genoese upon the rubble of the pristine old town, it developed through the centuries from 1542 until 1815, when Liguria was annexed to Piedmont and the stronghold stopped being a military facility. In the second half of 1800 all the glacis and part of the outer ramparts were levelled in order to create public spaces and new industrial areas. In the 1950’s restoration works were

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started together with the archaeological excavations which are still going on. At present, the easiest access to the fortress is by the lifts located on the left hand side of the main bridge, at the entrance of the tunnel which was used as an anti-raid shelter during W.W. II. The three main levels can be easily reached, but our tour starts from St. George’s bridge, which will take you up into the fortress from Corso Mazzini.

Built in 1774/1775 to replace the original wooden bridge, Ponte San

Giorgio (St George’s Bridge) overlooks the ruins of the old medieval town and the remains of Chiesa di San Domenico (St. Dominic’s church), erected in the early 1300’s by the Dominican friars. Cross the bridge and enter the fortress, then turn right and walk along the Fossato della Cittadella (Cittadella Moat) which separates the heart of the stronghold from the outer ramparts. By rounding the moat you will eventually reach the sea-side entrance. Enjoy the wonderful view from Bastione di San Giobatta (St. Giobatta’s Rampart), then go past the ramp which takes you straight into the fortress and find a small staircase which takes you up to Bastione di San Paolo (St. Paul’s Rampart). From here you will enjoy the panoramic view over Dante Alighieri public park and the western Riviera. While walking along the walls, you will find the archaeological excavation area first and then, after going down another small staircase, Bastione di Santa Caterina (St. Catherine’s Rampart) .

In front of you, feast your eyes on the view of the town centre and, on

the foreground, of old St. Paul's Hospital. Go on along the ramparts and reach Cortina di San Biagio (St. Blaise’s curtain), right above the archaeological area. Cross the bridge, walk through the main hall and you will reach the stronghold's second level: you are now in the Piazza d’armi della Cittadella (the fortress’ parade ground). On the left you can see the Palazzo della Sibilla (Sybil’s Palace) dating back to 1730, which was originally designed to be a warehouse and the garrison’s quarters. After restoration it has become the venue for exhibitions and cultural events and it also houses an excellent restaurant. Opposite the palace, the ruins of the ancient cathedral,

Take a few glimpses of the Fortress: in the lower picture: the Sybil’s Palace

The Priamar Fortress also used to be a Prison, yet that would never have become so relevant, if its records had not included the name of Giuseppe Mazzini. Between 1830 and 1831, the Italian nationalist was jailed in one of the cells underneath the Palazzo del Commissario (the Commissary’s Palace).

According to some witnesses, it was in this very cell that he started to develop the idea of his “Giovine Italia” (Young Italy), he was to found, later on, during his 1833 exile in Marseille.

The cell has undergone restoration and is now open to visitors.

named Nostra Signora di Castello and on your right, the square reaches the Cittadella Moat which links the square to the outer walls. Behind you, a ramp will take you up to Bastione di S. Teresa (St. Therese’s Rampart). An old cistern which supplied the whole complex with drinkable water is situated beneath the Cittadella square. A passage to the third level opens up from inside the Sybil’s palace. Cross the (once movable) bridge and reach the main hall connecting the square and the bridge. A few steps on, and there you are, on the Piazzale del Maschio, the very heart of the Priamar Fortress. On your left, the Palazzo del Commissario (Commissary’s Palace),in front of you the Loggia del Castello Nuovo (New Castle Loggia), on your left the Palazzo degli Ufficiali (Officers’palace) and behind you the Complesso dello Stendardo (Banner Complex).

The Piazzale del Maschio is currently used as a venue for events and soirées and as an open-air theatre for the summer theatrical season. The Palazzo del Commissario, erected in 1757, has undergone massive restoration and is now a venue for art

exhibitions and events. Inside the Palazzo, visit the cell where Giuseppe Mazzini was kept prisoner. The Loggia del Castello houses two of the main town museums: the Priamar Archaelogical Museum and the Sandro Pertini Museum located upstairs. Do not miss the Sala ad Ombrello (Umbrella-shaped Hall), one of most remarkable spaces inside the fortress, namely for its umbrella-like ceiling, made up of 8 variable size vaults. On the corner between the Palazzo del Commissario and the Loggia del Castello Nuovo, a ramp gets into the Torrione dell'Angelo (Angel’s Tower) where you will enjoy a great view over the old docks. A few steps further on and there you are, on the Cortina dell’Angelo (Angel’s Curtain), from whose bottom you will enjoy an unusual view of the fortress. A last effort is needed to eventually reach the very top of the monumental complex, but the breathtaking panorama will make the exertion worth standing. While walking over the roofs of the Palazzo dello Stendardo and del Commissario you will have the whole town at your feet. From east

to west you will find it easy to recognize the newly erected transparent glass and iron Bofill Tower overlooking the old wet dock, the Torre del Brandale, the Corsi and Guarnero twin towers and the dome of the Cathedral. The triangular palace rising up from the middle of the town is the town Courthouse.To the west, see the Dante Alighieri public park and the long, sandy beach which guarantees all citizens an enviable life-style.In the far distance,the Vado roadstead and Bergeggi isle, today a natural reserve.

Towards the sea, a small staircase will take you back to the Batteria del Comando and then to Piazzale del Maschio. You can either take the lifts to get back to ground level or simply walk back to the Piazzale della Cittadella, enter the main hall and easily reach the exit on St. George’s Bridge.

If you haven’t yet gone that way, we suggest you should take the opposite direction from the Port. Take the first turning on your right and walk into Corso Italia, one of the town’s main streets which will take you straight into the pedestrian area of the old town centre. (See Sightseeing Tour n. 1)

Several interpretations have been given for the meaning of the word “Priamar”: the most widely accepted is that the name derives from vernacular “Pria del mar” (Sea stone), while others believe it rather comes from “Pria a ma” (naughty stone) as its building was incredibly hazardous due to the ground friability. Whatever the etymology, Priamar is now the familiar way the stronghold is called by all citizens who have, nevertheless, always been on ambiguous terms with this stately town symbol. Most visitors are shocked when they realize how little is made of vast structure. Maybe the reason is that it reminds the Savonese of Genoa domination, maybe it is because they have gotten so used to it that they do not even notice it any longer. Yet, as a matter of fact, for long years Priamar was just like a forlorn stranger in town. Despite the many shops and places bearing the same name, it has only recently been rediscovered and made more easily available for the citizens and tourists.

Its restoration is now almost fully accomplished and the success of the last summer opera seasons has finally made it clear that the town tourist new-course must pass through its Fortress.

IF YOU WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT IT: If you wish to learn more about the Fortress, we suggest you should read these volumes, available in all bookstores in town: IL PRIAMAR Marco Sabatelli Editore 15,50 Euro

IL PRIAMAR LA FORTEZZA DI SAVONA Guided tour Marco Sabatelli Editore 8 Euro Anche in ed. Inglese

MAZZINI E I PRIMI MAZZINIANI DELLA LIGURIA Marco Sabatelli Editore 18 Euro

4

Shopping e Sapori Shopping and tastes

avona provides a wide range of possibilities for you shopping sprees and bargain or souvenir hunting. Hundreds of cosy shops ready to satisfy all your needs and fancies are scattered all around the old town centre. In the following pages you will read about some selected shops, popular spots and places where to taste local specialties and traditional delicacies.

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Specialties from Savona Wheat “farinata”: “farinata” - a kind of very thin, wood-burning oven baked focaccia - is a traditional Ligurian delicacy, usually made with a mix made of chickpea flour.

Savona’s typical specialty is a whiter, lighter and crispier wheat-flour version of the standard recipe.

“Fette”: crispy deep fried chickpea “panissa” slices, made from the same chickpea flour used for farinata., and served in a paper sheet or inside a specially made bread-roll

called “focaccetta”.

Chinotto from Savona: this special kind of citrus fruit from the Far East was first introduced in Europe around year 1500 by a Savonese navigator: the small, green, mandarin-like fruits have been rendered eatable by the skilful local gastronomes who have become specialized in choice alcohol preserves or delicious candied-fruit production. The “Chinotto from Savona” has been an item in the Slow Food finest foods selection since 2004.

Since 1961, Sanpier has been a synonym for tradition and innovation: top quality fabrics and fashion designers’ collections, fair prices and our customers’ satisfaction are a guarantee of our excellence in the field of both classic and casual menswear and womenswear. We are also specialized in formal dresses and plus size brands.

Piazza Giulio II, Savona. Tel. 019/821303 Open from Monday to Saturday 9.30-12.30//3.30-7.30 p.m.

Open all day on Thursdays

Via Verzellino, 12r SAVONA Tel.019.820632 Fax 019.820912 giovanni.nobili3@tin.it

Nobilithe calzature, da sempre il in negozio Nobili’s, top shoe-shop Savona delle calzature a Savona. obili’s is definitely one of Savona’s best known “historic” shops. For over a century Nobili’s has been the right place where to find the ideal shoe: trendy, elegant but most of all comfortable. How painful it is to wear too small shoes or how awkward when your feet get wet on a rainy day! At Nobili’s you will always get the right advice to find the best shoes for all occasions. Nobili’s was inaugurated in the years of Italian unification and in the store you will discover a unique taste for a refined, timeless elegance. Enjoy the comforta-

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ble armchairs, the wide mirrors and the vintage wooden stands. At Nobili’s tradition is perfectly blended with the utmost care to the latest fashion trends. Try men’s fashion labels: Geox, Nero Giardini, Timberland, Moreschi, Saxone, Clarks, Kickers, Frau. Women’s lines: Geox, Nero Giardini, Pura Lopez, Replay, Logan, Frau, Lorbac. Or children footwear: Geox, Primigi, Kickers, Hellob Kitty, Skechers. Come and visit Savona’s ultimate shoe-shop, we are ready to give you the best advice in town!

The trendiest Italian and international designer brands and fashion labels in our “for women only” boutique.

Sanpier firma donna Corso Italia 120r angolo via Astengo.

Tel. 019/8429885 Open from Monday to Saturday 9.30-12.30//3.30-7.30 p.m.

Open all day on Thursdays

In our shop dedicated to men’s fashion, you will find top Italian and international designer brands and fashion labels and also get the perfect fit with our clothes made to measure, in collaboration with Armani Boutique.

Sanpier firma uomo Corso Italia 146r Tel. 019/847415

Open from Monday to Saturday 9.30-12.30//3.30-7.30 p.m.

Open all day on Thursdays

GIOIELLERIA DELFINO Via Luigi Corsi 7/r Savona Tel.019.824.917 DELFINO AL CORSO Corso Italia 118/r Savona Tel.019.8485298 Openingh hours: tuesday to saturday 9,30/12,30 3,30/7,30 pm thursdays from 9,30 am to 7,30 pm Closed on mondays GIOIELLERIA DELFINO Via Pertica, 28 Finale L. (SV) Tel.019.6898124 Open on sundays Closed on monday and tuesday mornings www.delfinogioielli.com info@delfinogioielli.com

Historic Delfino’s Shop.

Delfino jewellery shop is located in Piazza Giulio II, right next to Old St. Paul’s Hospital. The shop was inaugurated on October 28th 1928 by Giovanni Delfino and it used to be a watchmaker’s and a watch repair shop and lab. Almost a century has now elapsed, and the small lab has eventually transformed into an elegant, spacious, 500 square metre, two-floor store with branches in main street Corso Italia, and Finale Ligure. Giovanni Delfino’s tradition was handed on to Vincenzo first, then to third generation brothers Giovanni and Ubaldo and finally to 22 year old Elena who has recently obtained the GIA gemmology degree in London.

The passion for watches has never been forgotten, and at Delfino’s you will find the trendiest top brands, Bulgari, Baume & Mercier, Longines, Omega, Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Cartier, only to mention a few. Do not forget the prêt-à-

porter Swatch Collection available at the Corso Italia shop.

Delfino’s is not only a watch shop, it is also a high-fashion jewellery boutique and design leather-goods shop and it is definitely the place not to miss while on a shopping spree in town.

For your convenience, all major credit cards (Visa, American Express, Carta Sì and Mastercard) are accepted.

213 shop has been the right spot where to find trendy, young, casual womenswear and menswear since 1972. You will find bargain – priced items from top fashion labels from the past seasons, because here, it’s sales season all year long!

213 Via Paleocapa 113 Tel. 019/812633 Open from Monday to Friday 9.30 a.m. / 7.30 p.m.

Saturdays 9.30-12.30//3.30-7.30 p.m.

Childrenswear from 0 to 12 years old 012 BENETTON Via Paleocapa 98r Tel. 019/851479

Open from Monday to Friday 9.30 a.m. / 7.30 p.m.

Saturdays 9.30-12.30//3.30-7.30 p.m.

Via Paleocapa 127r Prini’s tradition dates back to 1850 when the first store was opened. In 1930, the shop on main street Via Paleocapa was inaugurated and is today a synonym for prime quality leather goods, from Biasia, Borbonese and 1st Class, to Mandarina Duck, The Bridge and Pi Quadro.

Via Paleocapa 122r - www.prinishop.it Come discover this glamorous store, on the corner of the main shopping streets of the town centre. In this elegant, trendy, two-level shop you will find carefully selected staff to help you choose from the top fashion labels and latest trends.

WWW.SWAROVSKI.COM

SWAROVSKI PARTNER BOUTIQUE PRINI PELLETTERIE CORSO ITALIA 105R, SAVONA TEL.019.824643

The Italian fashion forward label for young people SISLEY Via Paleocapa 88r Tel. 019/822733

Open from Monday to Friday 9.30 a.m. / 7.30 p.m.

Saturdays 9.30-12.30//3.30-7.30 p.m.

Young people’s fashion label BENETTON store Via Paleocapa 98r Tel. 019/8489549

Open from Monday to Friday 9.30 a.m. / 7.30 p.m.

Saturdays 9.30-12.30//3.30-7.30 p.m.

Via Sacco, 1-3R corner of Piazza della Maddalena Tel. 019-814397

n the very heart of the old town centre, Palazzo Multedo, also known as the Popes’ Palace, houses a cosy twofloor shop which once used to be a sacristy. Anna, Rossana and Sabrina will welcome you at Wide Store shop and help you find the best combination from the wide variety of trendy and classy menswear and womenswear collections including Woolrich, Barbour, Jaggy, Bd. Baggies, La Martina, FIAT, 9.2, Fred Perry and beachwear by Miss Bikini.

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n the very heart of the old town centre, nearby the Priamar Fortress, discover the magic of Lilas Rose Fragrances. The elegant perfume shop at 45, Via Caboto, on the corner of Via Untoria, offers you a variety of exquisite, unique and rare perfumes and fragrances by the world’s greatest Maîtres parfumiers, Laura Tonatto, Robert Piguet, Coudray, Fragonard, Les Parfums de Rosine. Experience the secret charms of rose and tuberose, lilac and amber, vanillas from the Far East and the Antilles, Sandal wood and Indian Patchouli.

To enliven your home’s atmosphe-

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Via Caboto, 45 corner of Via Untoria SAVONA Tel. 019.814785

re, do not forget to try the choice candles by Parks of London and the natural scents by Casaroma.

For your bodycare, treat yourselves to the refined 100% organic creams, scrubs and bath-foams by Officina de’ Tornabuoni and be tempted by the selection of trendy bijouterie accessories by 100% Cachemire. Lilas Rose Fragrances is waiting for you to make your stay in town simply…unforgettable!

Vico del Marmo 10 tel. 019.85.42.63 Open at lunch and dinner time Monday to Saturday Private room for “Business Meals” Air conditioning Major credit cards accepted Reservation recommended

In the heart of the medieval town centre, among age-old monuments that remind us of Popes Sixtus IV, Julius II and Pius VII, right opposite the Sistine Chapel, you will discover L’angolo dei Papi, a quality restaurant where specialties from Liguria are carefully blended with delicacies from nearby regions and countries. Choose from the carefully selected wines from Italy and abroad, enjoy the soft, jazzy atmosphere of this 60-seat, roomy, comfortable, refined restaurant where modern and antique are as perfectly balanced as the ingredients of an excellent cocktail.

FARINATA PUNTO D’INCONTRO (“MEETING SPOT” FARINATA RESTAURANT) oing up the short Berlingieri slope, right opposite the “Torretta”, you will find the trattoria and “farinata” restaurant “Punto d’incontro” where you will relish the town’s delicacy called “farinata”. It is hard to explain what this sort of thin salt pie made of wheat or chickpea flour is like, so just come and try it at Punto d’ incontro, where Monica and Doriano (with his 35 years’ experience as farinata maker) will welcome you and make you feel at home. Taste variously topped farinata and other regional homely-cooking specialties. Open every day at lunch and dinner time.

Closed on Tuesdays.

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FARINATA PUNTO D’INCONTRO Via Famagosta, 19/21r SAVONA Tel.019.807475 Closed on Tuesdays

Via Quarda Superiore, 14 Zona Porto Tel.019.8335360 Reservation needed for “Business” lunches or dinner

n Via Quarda Superiore, in the very heart of the medieval town centre, you will find a typical traditional inn that has made this corner of the town a unique and incomparable spot. Enjoy the restaurant owner’s friendly welcome and treat yourselves to the best fish specialties from the Ligurian tradition. The inn is typically and originally furnished and has a lovely open-air space overlooking the old wet docks. BACCO’s is open Monday to Saturday, lunch and dinner time, closed on Sundays.

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Brandale Square SAVONA

ar Brandale is located in one of the most remarkable and striking corners of the old

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town centre, right on the ground floor of the historic tower of the same name. Enjoy the magical atmosphere of the medieval walls while sipping wine from the bar’s excellent selection (also available for sale). Choose a table in the open air area and feast your eyes on stately Corsi and Guarnero towers while treating yourselves to a tasty aperitif, a fast lunch or a relaxing coffeebreak.The bar is closed on Tuesdays.

t 34/r, Via Dei Vegerio just a stone’s throw from Piazza Mameli, in the very heart of the town, you will find a unique spot: restaurant Osteria De Gustibus. The restaurant philosophy is to allow everyone to taste carefully selected, typical quality foods at a reasonable price. Taste the exquisite cheeses and tasty sliced salami and ham. Enjoy the great selection of wines and choose the best match for your meal. You may even purchase something you have particularly appreciated and bring it home with you.

Treat yourselves to a pleasant aperitif-break and try the selection of choice wines from all over Italy. Bruno and Nadia are

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ight beside Chiabrera Theatre, have a break at Superfrutto and treat yourselves to a delicious titbit.

Superfrutto has been the town’s most celebrated ice-cream parlour and confectionery shop for over 25

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De Gustibus Cibo artigianale di qualità Home-made quality food awaiting for you with their specialties which happily blend Ligurian and Venetian traditions. OPEN every day, lunch and dinner-time.

Via dei Vegerio 34/36r Tel. 019.810780 Fax 019.8335929 www.de-gustibus.com

years. In the heart of the elegant town centre, you will enjoy an incomparable home-made icecream, in a multitude of different flavours, fresh-made fruit-juices, milk and ice-cream shakes, icecream cakes and other goodies.

Piazza Diaz, 17r SAVONA Tel.019.800567

hen visiting Santuario, the holy place Pope Benedict XVI came to last year, do not miss the oldest historic Inn in town and one of the oldest around the region, too. This cosy tavern was first mentioned in a 1543 chronicle, seven years after the Holy Lady appeared to Blessed Antonio Botta. Almost five centuries later, this historic place, wisely managed by the Premoselli-Rizzo family, still welcomes tourists and pilgrims from all over Italy and Europe. Chef Alessio, helped by his mother Gabriella, is ready to serve you the best traditional Ligurian and Piedmontese fish or meat specialties in a lovely, relaxed and typical atmosphere. Seventeen comfortable rooms, a parking area and a playground for children are available for the inn’s guests.

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LOCANDA DEL SANTUARIO Via Santuario, 133 Tel.019.879215 OPEN EVERY DAY at lunch-time, from THURSDAY to SUNDAY also at dinner-time.

VIA LEONCAVALLO 32R

S A V O N A Tel.019.813660 - Fax 019.813688 www.hotelsmarco.com - smarco@hotelsmarco.com PARCHEGGIO - GARAGE - WIFI - TV SATELLITARE E SKY - A 800 M DAL CENTRO STORICO we speak english - man spricht deutsch - on parle français - se habla español

5

Itinerario del Santuario The Shrine of Our Lady of Mercy

By Silvia Campese - Pictures archive Opere Sociali and Andrea De Nicolo

Time: 2 hrs.

20 min. bus-ride from Savona: Line 3 from Piazza Mameli stop Partially accessible

avona and the Santuario di Nostra Signora della Misericordia are linked by a common destiny of faith, art and history which commenced on March 18th 1536, when the Virgin Mary appeared to elderly peasant Antonio Botta, in the green San Bernardo valley, about 7 Km from the town centre.The event gave enough strength to the town to take courage again after the subiugation by the Genoese who had destroyed both the port and the citadel on the Priamar hill to make room for a new fortress. The place where the Virgin had appeared immediately became a pilgrimage destination known to both locals and foreigners. Visited by numerous illustrious pilgrims, it came to be the

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second best known Marian cult centre after Loreto Holy Home. In August 1536, a basilica was erected where the Virgin had appeared, followed by the Poor People's Home, the pilgrims' hostel and the Old Inn which has been the village tavern (today a family-run restaurant) and hotel ever since.

The recent visit of Pope Benedict XVI, in May 2008, gave new prestige and religious reputation to the site as the Pope bestowed on the Shrine the prestigious Golden Rose, the Vatican gift offered on rare and special occasions only. The token-gift is presently on display inside a glass case placed in the church.

On your way to the shrine, while retracing the steps of the yearly

MUSEUM OPENING HOURS From July 3rd open on Saturdays and Sundays, 10,30 a.m. - 12,30 p.m. / 4 p.m. - 7 p.m.

Info www.operesociali.it

The “Crocetta� chapel

Pastoral

The Pianeta

The Virgin’s Crown

18th March Holy Procession, you will notice the nine votive chapels erected along the street from Lavagnola neighbourhood to the Sanctuary in the 1600's and, eventually, the Crocetta Chapel, dating back to 1680.

You can stop at each chapel before finally reaching the Crocetta, located on top of a hillock on the left side of the basilica. Go up the steep, narrow staircase, embellished with frescoes by Bartolomeo Guidobono, who also painted the dome with a series figures portraying the pilgrims on the Procession Day. The churchyard offers a perfect scenography where the palaces and statues from the XVIIIth and XIXth centuries evoke theatre wings designed to make visitors focus their attention on the very heart of the stage: the basilica. Also the angel, sculpted by Giacomo Ponsonelli in 1708, which embellishes the fountain in the middle of the square, is actually pointing to the remarkable Finale stone and speckled white marble façade, realized by Ticinese sculptor Taddeo Carlone between 1609 and 1611.

The interior, whose building was supervised by Lombardy-born architect Pace Antonio Sormano, is a three nave structure, frescoed by

Bernardo Castello (Genoa 15571629). A staircase at the end of the main nave leads to the crypt which houses the 1560 sculptural group portraying “L'apparizione della Madonna di Misericordia ad Antonio Botta” (The Apparition of Our Lady of Mercy to Antonio Botta) by Pietro Orsolino.

Remarkable works of art are on display in the eight side-chapels; among them, the Altare della Visitazione (Visitation Altar) attributed to Lorenzo Bernini, or the painting on canvas “Natività della Vergine” (Nativity of the Virgin) by Roman painter Orazio Borgianni (1578-1616), the “Presentazione della Vergine al Tempio” (Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple)

by Domenico Zampieri, a.k.a.

Domenichino (1581-1641) and the “Cristo Crocifisso” (Crucifixed Christ) by Genoese Giovanni Battista Paggi (1554-1627) are really noteworthy. Also the valuable main altar, dating back to the 1700's and decorated with polychrome marbles is a truly remarkable piece and so is the wooden choir by Giuseppe Vincenzo Garassino, an inlay masterpiece from the second half of the XXth century.

The basilica has always kept its status of prominent pilgrimage destination and it has recently become a landmark for all Italian Fraternal Orders. Savonese people are all deeply devoted to the Virgin of Mercy who is also the town's patron saint.

They pay homage at the shrine, pray for grace, worship the Holy Lady and never forget to write down their thoughts or vows on the “Pilgrims' Book” which is kept inside the church and has records of the

names of such notable visitors as Giovanni Roncalli, former Venice Archbishop and then Pope John XXIII, President Sandro Pertini and Pope Benedict XVI. On leaving the basilica, on the left side of the square, you will find the Museo del Santuario, a display of the history of this sacred place. The museum includes the “Eso Peluzzi Exhibition Room” - inaugurated last year by the Opere Sociali di N.S. Della Misericordia (Social Works of Our Lady of Mercy) – and the Treasury Museum, set to be re-opened in early June this year, after complete architectural refurbishing and new exhibition setting, according to the guidelines set in 1959 by museum keeper Pasquale Rotondi. Linked together by an inner passage, the two spaces offer a synthesis of the history of ageold or recent donations to the Shrine. Sacred silverware and vestments, ex-votos, either paintings or objects and jewels that aristocratic families, bishops, priests, but also common people offered to the Holy Lady through the centuries are on display in the Museum.

Remark the Cross Reliquary dating back to 1600's, probably created by an artist from Bernini's circle, the silver ostensorium, donated by Maria Cristina of Savoy and the crown Pope Pius VII crowned the Virgin's statue with, in 1814, on the occasion of his return from Fontainebleu where he had been exiled by Napoleon's order, from 1809 to 1812.

Observe the rich collection of sacred vestments, especially the polychrome silk, gold and silver “planeta”, with a goblet veil porta-

ying the Madonna of Mercy, made in Vienna in the late 1700's and donated by merchant Nicolò Gioia, or the 1700's frontal with a “bizarre” pattern on red silk, embroidered with unusual, peculiar motifs probably derived from the Far East tradition. The “Eso Peluzzi Exhibition Room” represents the Shrine's contemporary identity and houses a collection of paintings and drawings by Eso Peluzzi (18941985), who long lived and worked at Santuario and eventually donated most of his works to the Opere Sociali in 1969.

Eso Peluzzi, “La Veglia Funebre”

The reason why Savona is also known as the Popes’ Town is that Pope Sixtus IV (Francesco Della Rovere 1471-1484) and Julius II (Giuliano Della Rovere 1503-1513) belonged to a family from Savona.

Sixtus IV had the Sixtine Chapel in Rome erected and a smaller version of the chapel built in Savona as a mausoleum for his parents. Julius II, who commissioned Michelangelo to fresco the ceiling of the Roman Chapel, actually was Sixtus IV’s nephew. Thanks to the protection it got through its Popes, Savona enjoyed high status and many of the monuments and palaces around the town date back to that golden age. More recently, another Pope was linked to the town: Pope Pius VII in fact, was not born in Savona, but was held captive here by Napoleon, from 1809 to 1812 and then in 1814. The historic and fully furnished rooms of the Palazzo Vescovile (Bishop’s Palace) can be visited on appointment. During his captivity, the Pope often visited the Shrine of Our Lady of Mercy and 200 years later, another Pope, Benedict XVI, blessed the Shrine with the award of the Golden Rose during a solemn ceremony on May 17th 2008 and recalled the town’s identity as the Popes’ Town during a high mass held on Piazza del Popolo.

6

Itinerario Albissola

Marina

Pictures archive Comune Albissola Marina and Albissola.com

Time: 2 Hrs Lenght: 3 km Easy, pleasant walk 3 minutes bus-ride from Palacrociere bus-stop in Savona, Line 7 Accessible

The Artists’ Promenade lbissola is an open air museum whose every corner reveals art and culture.

While walking around the town, please notice the ceramic street plates by the Ceramiche Mazzotti Kiln. To the left, the old town centre opens up with Pozzo Garitta, a characteristic and charming Ligurian corner. Discover the lovely cobblestone paved “piazzetta” (small square), encircled by the traditional buildings with their steep outer staircases and vine covered façades. Pozzo Garitta houses artists’ studios, kilns and an art gallery. Do not miss to visit Lucio Fontana’s studio, where the founder of Spatialism worked and created such masterpieces as “Le Nature”, today exhibited on the

A Comune di Albissola Marina Piazza del Popolo, 12 Tel.+3901940029280 Fax +39019486460 www.comune.albissolamarina.sv.it Assessorato alla Cultura Tel.+3901940029280 cultura@comune.albissolamarina.sv.it Assessorato al Turismo Tel.+3901940029265 turismo@comune.albissolamarina.sv.it Ufficio IAT (Internet Point) Tel.+390194002525 Fax +390194005358 albisola@inforiviera.it

promenade, by the panel bearing the same name. Leave Pozzo Garitta and continue your walk underneath the windows of Maria Giuseppa Rossello’s native home.

Walk along Via Repetto and reach the staircase rising to Piazza N.S. della Concordia and the samename church. The square dates back to 1600, but the typical black and white cobblestone paving, featuring concentric ellipses, was originally designed by Mario Rossello and Agenore Fabbri. In summer, the square becomes the venue for several cultural and entertainment events sponsored by the Municipality. The church was erected in 1590 and is divided into two side aisles and a nave. In the apse, enjoy the lovely statue of

the Virgin and, to the sides, the stained glasses bearing the effigies of St. Anthony and St. Benedict.

The 1576, 2 metre high, 50 tile panel “Adorazione dei Pastori” (Adoring Shepherds)or “Natività” (Nativity) by Augustino de Salamoni and Geronimo Urbinate is also well worth mentioning. Behind the square, visit the Spazio Civico di Arte Contemporanea (Contemporary Art Town Gallery) and then St. Joseph’s Oratory, which is a perfect completion for the square’s architectural setting and houses a Processional Cross by Anton Maria Maragliano, a XVIIth century wooden choir and an altar-piece by Fiasella. At the bottom of the staircase to the square, you will find the 1978 Raku Wall, from an idea of art critic Dante Tiglio and a group of artists. The wall is named after the Japanese technique for baking ceramic. The pieces get baked in only 30 minutes and as soon as they are extracted from the raku kiln, they are placed into a container filled with paper and woodchips. The wall is composed of 1200 rough terracotta tiles by such artists as Giorgio Moiso, Danièle Sulewic, Luigi Caldanzano, Ansgar Elde, Milena Milani, Emanuele Luzzati, Esa Mazzotti among others. The bricks were fixed onto the wall following no special order or design and form a 32 square metre panel.

Before entering Via Salomoni don’t forget to stop at Fornace Alba Docilia (Alba Docilia Kiln), retrieved by the Town Authority and now the venue for several prestigious art exhibitions. On the ground floor, you will find a handicraft shop, the workshop and

two water tanks for clay decanting.

Keep walking along Via Salomoni as far as splendid Villa Faraggiana (117/119, Via Salomoni, Tel.+39.019.480622 / +39.019.481648.

Open April to September, 3 to 6 p.m., closed on Mondays). The villa was commissioned by the Durazzo family in the early 1700's and eventually sold to the Faraggiana family in 1821. Its interiors still feature the original settings: enjoy the Seasons Gallery, the Chapel, the Library, the Stuccos Chamber and the cosy drawing-rooms.

Opposite the villa entrance, observe the Alpine Troops War Memorial by Turi d’Albissola. On your way back to the sea-side, you will reach Piazza Wilfredo Lam dedicated to the famous Cuban artist and embellished with replicas of some his most remarkable masterpieces. Turn towards Albisola Superiore and meet the Casa Mazzotti and the Fabbrica “Giuseppe Mazzotti 1903” factory-museum. It was Tullio Mazzotti who had the building projected and built by futurist architect

A glimpse of Pozzo Garitta

N.S. della Concordia Square

The lovely Albissola Marina sandy beach

Asger Jorn Home-Museum

Diulgheroff in 1930 as his own home-studio-workshop. It is the only futurist residence to have kept its pristine look without having ever been modified. Observe the marquees over the shop entrance and on the building’s front, the metal-framed windows, the harmonious play of lights and shades, the round-shaped walls of the staircase and of the shop, the details framing the openings and the rounded corners. A different, more rationalist design characterises the volumes’ proportions and their partition, depending on the function they were intended for. The Fabbrica “Giuseppe Mazzotti 1903” dates back to 1935 and was projected by Torido Mazzotti, superintended by Diulgheroff. In 1964 the Factory Museum was inaugurated to exhibit the over 200 masterpieces by a hundred artists.

And now, the time has come to make for the promenade and discover the famous Passeggiata degli Artisti (Artists’ promenade).

Inaugurated in 1963, the 800 metre long walk by the sandy beach features 20 large, poly-

chrome panels (counting overall 5 million small tiles) that replicate the original designs by the numerous artists who often resided in town: Caldanzano, Crippa, De Salvo, Fabbri, Franchini, Gambetta, Garelli, Lam, Luzzati, Porcù, Quatrini, Rambaldi, Rossello, Sabatelli, Salino, Sassu, Siri, Strada. The artists’ panels alternate with dichromatic light-blue and white mosaic pavements. The Artists’ Promenade is a unique, world-famous masterpiece, percently restored and widened by adding some new panels by artists Caminati, Bonelli, Arroyo, Rougement. Asger Jorn’s panel is a memorial to the Danish artist who was awarded the honorary freedom of the city in 1959 and, upon his death, donated his home to the Municipality that then created la Casa Museo Jorn ( Jorn's HomeMuseum, 8, Via D’Annunzio tel. +39.019.400-29280). The Danish artist assembled several panels and ceramic works made of kiln waste and recycled material, in a continuous interpenetration between natural elements and man’s action, thus carrying out a project global-

ly involving all spaces, from the garden to the very home. On the promenade, opposite the Town Hall, you will find the pedestrian subway, originally exhibiting an installation by Caldanzano and recently embellished with ceramic panels by Dangelo, Elde, Carlè.

Fontana’s Le Nature are but a few steps ahead, followed shortly after by the 1955 War Memorial by Leoncillo Leonardi. It is an original two-side work: on one side it is quite dark and displays the uniforms, the skulls, the blood of the fallen soldiers, whereas on the other, it is lighter, more peacefully colourful and animated with bright figures and flying doves.

All along the Promenade, do not overlook the street-lamps painted following the instructions of French artist Rougemont, the other works of art by Giovanni Tinti, Ernesto Canepa and Franco Bratta and the stately bench “Gioie e delizie di Galatea” (Galathea’s Joys and Delights) by Ignazio Moncada. At the farthest end of the Promenade, look at the Madonnetta Cliff, so called for the votive aedicule placed on its top. Cross Via Aurelia and observe the lovely bench realized

by Studio Ernan but based on Canepa’s original design and then proceed to Villa De Mari.

Cross Piazza Sisto IV and finish your tour in Piazza Leuti, a historic market square and natural landing-place for tradesmen, whose name reminds of the typical Ligurian boats used for seatrade. The square has recently undergone renovation and is now adorned with a fountain displaying two panels by Virio. It

is well worth noticing that the whole old town centre is embellished with light-sculptures designed by several notable artists: Albrito, Arroyo, Baj, Bertolazzi, Bocca, Bratta, Caminati, Carlè, Carmi, Cavaliere, Covelli, Dova, Del Pezzo, Elde, Fabbri, Franceschini, Giannici, Malmignati, Mondino,Moncada, Pagliaro, Pardi, Recalcati, Rossello, Scrofani, Selden, Tadini, among others.

Alba Docilia Kiln

The Madonnetta Cliff

7

Itinerario Albisola Superiore Pictures archive Comune Albisola Superiore

Talian Square

Time: 2 hrs Lenght: 3 km Easy, pleasant walk 8 minutes bus-ride from Palacrociere bus-stop in Savona, Line 7 Accessible

The beach

our tour departs from Piazza Paolo Chiesa, an amphitheatre-like square overlooking the sea and a popular venue, meeting place and night-life spot.

Visit nearby Chiesa di N.S. Del Mare (Our Lady of the Sea) a Latin-cross plan church erected in the 1930’s. Inside, enjoy the silvery-golden Tabernacle by Giacomo Manzù and a Madonna with Child wooden statue dating back to the XVIIth century. The tour skirts the beaches to let you fully

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enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and contemplate the numerous remarkable works of art: not far from the square, enjoy the works by Bili Bidjoka, Kristian Hornsleth, Gian Paolo Parini, Alfredo Sosabravo, Carlo Levi and Franco Raggi, until you will reach the monumental work named “Onda” (Wave), a 120 metre long bench covered with grès tiles by masters Emanuele Luzzati, Carlos Carlè and Aurelio Caminati. Only a few steps away from the promenade, we suggest you should also have a look at Piazza Talian, a typical “piazzetta” in the middle of a typical Ligurian village, where fishermen shelter their colourful “gozzi” boats during winter. While making for the old town centre, beside the promenade, discover the small streets and the hidden corners opening up onto the sea. Savour this timeless

atmosphere and enjoy the displays of the ceramic workshops, a testimony of the 4 century old craft tradition. All the workshops and shops are open to the public and the craftsmen will show you the techniques of these unique handicrafts, known throughout the world.

You will now reach Corso Ferrari and the “Manlio Trucco” Museo Civico della Ceramica (Ceramic Town Museum), an important venue, exhibitions and cultural initiatives (Info. Tel. Tel.019.482295 ext. 257).

Leave the Capo neighbourhood and walk towards the heart of the old town; walk along Corso Mazzini as far as Piazza Giulio II, with the “Alba Docilia” Roman Villa, an ancient mansion dating back to the first century a.D. and nearby St. Peter’s Church which displays typical roman features. Walk on towards Via alla Massa and reach the Municipal School of Ceramic Manufacturing, open to group visits (Info. Tel. 019.485785), where all the phases of ceramic manufacturing can be observed, through didactic and workshop sessions. A few minutes’ walk and you will reach the very heart of the old Superiore (Upper) town with its parks and gardens and old ceramic workshops. St. Nicholas' is the pearl of this old village, a majestic church whose present structure, projected by Alessandro Salvagno, dates back to the last decade of the XVIth century. The church's courtyard dates back to 1837 and the basilical-plan interior is divided into a nave, terminating with a wide apse presbytery, and two side aisles. On its side, the adjoining

bell tower is adorned by a small polychrome ceramic dome. The whole structure has lately undergone scrupulous restoration which has revived its pristine colours.

The side chapels exhibit remarkable paintings and sculptures: the first chapel houses a wooden sculptural group by Anton Maria Maragliano, portraying St. Anthony from Padua, while the third chapels contains a XVIIIth century statue of N.S. del Rosario (Our Lady Of the Rosary). By the main altar, observe the statue of the Glory of St. Nicholas by sculptor Francesco Schiaffino and, on both sides of the presbytery, notice the several paintings and canvases by painter Paolo Gerolamo Brusco, who probably also painted the frescoes of the barrel vault and the apsidal basin. The wooden group “San Isidoro ai piedi della Vergine” (St. Isidore at the Virgin’s feet) was pro-

The rocky shore towards the East Albisola boasts pre-roman origins and it was antiquely known as Alba Docilia, where Alba was a synonym for village and Docila was the name of a Roman family. For centuries the craftspeople from Albisola have skilfully manufactured clay objects wheelshaping vases and bowls and then leaving them to dry on the beaches, under the sun; they have created their typical colours by grinding them in the Sansobbia Valley mills, they have baked their ceramics in the wood-burning kilns, gathering the fire-wood in the nearby forests. Thanks to these hardworking people Albisola Superiore is today a member of A.I.C.C. (Association of Italian Ceramic towns) and its products have been awarded the D.O.C. (quality assurance) label.

St. Peter’s Church

Albisola Superiore Coat of Arms features the Agnus Dei (God’s Lamb) holding Genoa’s Flag; this coat of arms is typical of several Ligurian villages having an agreement with the Region’s capital. A Law of 14.01.1932 allowed the addition a pearl-gray crenellated crown with a scarlet stone in its middle.

bably executed by sculptor Antonio Brilla, while in the second lefthand side chapel, a XVIIth century altar-piece celebrates the peace between Albisola and Stella featuring a Madonna with Child and Saints Joseph and Peter. A painting on canvas by Giovanni Agostino Ratti, portraying the Immaculate Conception, is exhibited in the sacristy. The other frescoes of the vault are by painter Francesco Gandolfi. Beside the Parish, find the Oratorio di Santa Maria Maggiore whose front has lately undergone restoration and is embellished by two columns and, over the main door, by an exquisite bas-relief by Brilla enclosed in a preciously decorated frame. Other remarkable features of this façade are the solemn motto, a magnificent eagle with wide open wings and surmounted by a marble cross, a rosewindow, four pilasters and capitals, two valuable terracotta vases and a sumptuous main door.

On your way back you will discover Villa Gavotti della Rovere, also known as Pope Julius II’s native home. The villa was inherited in 1744 by Francesco Maria Della Rovere from his father Clemente

who had made it its mansion after spending most of his lifetime in the other building he owned over the area, presently known as Le Cantine (the Cellars). When Francesco Maria (1695-1768) was made a Doge of the Republic of Genoa, on January 29th 1765, he immediately had the villa restored for an amount of 1000 sequins.

Upon his death, through distant kinship, the villa came to Luigi Gavotti and the Gavotti family the villa is named after and still own the estate. The building is a typical Ligurian-style mansion, with a bulky three-floor square body with an adjoining chapel on the northern side and two low terraced edifices on the southern side. These parallel building which mirror each other, are joined together by two winding staircases which also serve as a partition element for the Italian style garden with its four fountains and the groove housing the sculptural group “Hercules and the Nemean Lion” half-hidden among the cypresses, Holm-oaks and Lebanon citron trees. The terraces are embellished with Carrara marble balustrades surmounted by huge vases and statues by Tuscan craftsmen. Below the northern terrace (which actually looks southwards), the Three Seasons Halls - Spring, Summer and Autumn were designed in 1760 by the Porta brothers from Milan. The three rooms feature remarkable stuccos: the Spring room displays blossoming plants springing out from the vase-like capitals to finally interlace on the ceiling. The Summer room is decorated with harvesting putti, while the ceiling is filled up with fruit laden branches. In the

end, the Autumn room is rich with vine branches laden with grapes and graciously interlacing around the windows. Beneath the southern window a fourth grotto-like room was originally decorated with corals (then sacked by Napoleon’s troops and replaced by stucco ones), shells and stalactites from nearby Bergeggi Grotto. The ground floor chapel houses a 1762 organ and a lovely statue of St. Catherine by Francesco Schiaffino.

The interiors of the villa, whose “piano nobile” or “noble floor” overlooks the panoramic terraces, were decorated by Andrea Levantino with rustic and daily life scenes on the walls, the vases, the ceramic tiles and the doors. The stuccos encircle the windows, the busts, the mirrors and even the paintings, mostly family portraits.

Among the other rooms, the Great ground floor Hall is worth mentioning, together with the Popes’ Drawing-room, the Boudoir and the Mistresses’ room. The furniture, perfectly fitted for the interiors, is not the usual French manufacture but was realized in Albisola and in Genoa by local woodworkers and cabinet makers. The dominating yellowish orange shade of the façades and the inner walls was often used also for the country people’s houses scattered around Albisola plain which were actually all part of the estate. The building was in fact part of a wide reorganization project involving the surrounding country-side it was the heart of. All roads and country paths met at the villa and every crossing was embellished with exedras and gates and columns adorned with lovely flowerpots. The

villa’s terraces enjoyed a breathtaking view of an Arcadian panorama, luxuriant with vegetation and rich fields. Here and there, in the distance, the few country houses seemed to emerge from the green as if to answer the call of the villa’s colours.

The “Onda” monumental promenade

During Sixtus IV’s pontificate, peace between Albisola and nearby Stella was miraculously realized. The story goes that on October 18th 1482, on a bright sunny day, after a series of bloody attacks and consequent innumerable casualties: “A snow white cloud, and a light as splendid as the rays of the sun (appeared) and forced the dazzled soldiers to stop fighting. Then a voice, a celestial, sweetest voice, thrice repeated “Peace!”. Then the cloud vanished and that very place of fight and bloodshed became one of peace and brotherhood” (excerpted from an early XIXth century chronicle). On the miracle spot, a chapel was erected by the two townships, which was later included in the church adjoining the Cloister and named Santuario di N.S. della Pace (Shrine of Our Lady of “The Peace”).

CENTRO COMMERCIALE

IL GABBIANO

Corso Ricci 203 R SAVONA Tel. 019.84061 www.ilgabbianoonline.com

Last but not least, in Savona you will also find one of the largest shopping centres in Liguria.

Inugurated in 1996, the “Gabbiano” mall immediately had an enormous success, just a stone’s throw from the town centre, easy to reach either on foot or by car, the modern premises are located along the Letimbro torrent which actually splits the town in two. With its 64 shops, the Shopping Centre provides for everything you may fancy. Try the buffet restau-

rant and other smaller fast food places to have a snack while shopping. The mall is open everyday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., from 2 to 9 p.m on Mondays ( July and Agust, Sunday opening hours 9 am.- 1 p.m. and 5 9 p.m.). Free Parking. Air conditioning.

Credits The map of the old town centre of Savona was commissioned by Marco Sabatelli Editore to Savonese artist Luca Lolli. It is not a scale map though, as it was meant to highlight historic places and make the reading easier. The gray roofs on the map indicate the original Ligurian slated-coverings. Our aim was to offer visitors an overall sight of what to go looking for around the town while on a brief sightseeing tour. The Priamar Map is also by Luca Lolli.

Copyright 2009, Marco Sabatelli Editore and Luca Lolli.

Under Italy’s Copyright Law, no part of this map and publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means or stored in a data base or retrieval system without the prior written permission by Marco Sabatelli Editore S.r.l.

This publication is an original idea of Dario Sabatelli in cooperation with Andrea de Nicolo. We wish to thank the Assessore alla Cultura Fabio Lenzi of the Comune di Albisola Mare and Dott. Monica Vallino and Dott. Daria Barrile of the Comune di Albissola Superiore for their helpful cooperation with the drafting of the texts.

This publication could never have been issued without the sponsorship of: Comune di Savona

Opere Sociali di N.S. di Misericordia

Comune di Albissola Marina Comune di Albisola Superiore Photographs by: Tiziana Adorno, Andrea De Nicolo, Lorenzo Testa, Marco Molinari, Danilo Olivieri, Andrea Bruno, Albissola.com, Archivio Comune di Albisola Mare, Archivio Comune Albisola Superiore. In particolare è di Andrea Bruno la foto che apre l’Itinerario Priamar e che per errore nello scorso numero è stata attribuita ad altro fotografo. Ce ne scusiamo con l’autore.

The guide texts are by Dario Sabatelli and Andrea De Nicolo. The texts relative to the towns have been made available by each town’s local authorities.

The texts relative to the Shrine of Our Lady of Mercy are by Silvia Campese.

English translation by Licia Valente.

Savona e le Albissole da vedere è un supplemento di Riviera Notte registrato al Tribunale di Savona n. 145 del 24/6/1961 Direttore Responsabile: Marco Sabatelli Direttore Editoriale: Dario Sabatelli Responsabile Marketing: Andrea De Nicolo Amministrazione e pubblicità: Marco Sabatelli Editore srl - Via Servettaz 39 - 17100 Savona Tel.019.823535 / 019.821997- Fax 019.827413 www.sabatelli.it - editore@sabatelli.it Grafica e stampa a cura dello Stabilimento Grafico della Marco Sabatelli Editore srl.