Salon Magazine, April 2006

l salon al MAGAZINE

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 365 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1902 Toronto, Ont., Canada M4W 3L4

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY AND STYLE

Reclassified Canada’s first hair district plus CONTESSA 18 entry form

textbook texture • changing brands APRIL 06 $5 WWW.BEAUTYNET.COM

essential looks SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL‘s essential looks is the definitive guide to the latest looks inspired from the world of the fashion catwalks.

Commercial, accessible and above all real haircuts and colors which hairdressers enjoy doing and clients simply love. The Essential Looks kit contains a glossy trend book and inspirational trend report which keeps all stylists up to date with the latest looks. A stepby-step book and DVD show how to create all of the amazing haircuts and colors. The consultation trend selector helps communicate the latest trend information to your client.

essential looks For further information please contact your local Schwarzkopf Professional Sales Consultant or Technical Advisor.

Together. A passion for hair

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l salon l MAGAZINE

Content ontents ts APRIL 06 W W W. B E A UT Y NE T. COM

Hair: Stéphane Legros Odyssée Le Loft Model: Lissa Monette Photography: Leda & St-Jacques Makeup: Geneviève Lenneville

ON THE COVER 65

RECLASSIFIED

18

TEXTBOOK TEXTURE

22

CHANGING BRANDS

Technique: To carry out the different tones of grey, he used the nonvolatile bleaching powder up to 7, volume 20 and then deposited the shades 03B, 06B, 09B and 000 Crystal Clearfrom “Shades EQ” Revitalizing and Balancing Colour from Redken 5th Avenue NYC.

FEATURE Toronto gets Canada's first hair district

HAIRLINES Education on multicultural hair

HAIRLINES Why manufacturers do it

HIGHLIGHTS 18

HAIRLINES

The Notorious B.E.T.T.I.E. - Recreating the iconic style of Bettie Page p.20; Education Principles p.24; Beauty Mama - Mother's Day promotions are ready p.26; Diversion News p.26; L'Oréal Professionnel wants you - for the 2006 tecni. art runway style competition p.28; International Exposure - The British press covers Contessa 17 p.28; Getting Fancy - Hair accessories add that extra oomph p.30; Taxing Issue - Get the facts that affect you p.30; Barcelona Beckons - Beauty business forum p.32; Marketing Strategies p.32; Canadian Forces - Farouk Systems USA imports talent from north of the border p.34

36

COLOUR

38

MEN

78

SCENE

Practice Makes Perfect - Especially when correcting or changing colour

The Numbers Game - Getting in on the men's market

BODY BASICS

Sensitive Clients - Cosmetic ingredients may cause allegic reactions

80

NAILS

86

TANNING

Murphy’s Law - What to do with a gel enhancement gone wrong p.80; Team Player - Salon teams should include nail techs, too! p.82; The New Face - Hand treatments play a role in the anti-aging market p.84

Impact turns 10 - Supre celebrates with new packaging; Sun care - Australian Gold introduces skin care for tanners > CONTENTS CONTINUE ON PAGE12

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65

CANADA’S FIRST HAIR DISTRICT

go ahead. spoil yourself pretty.

pureology.com 800.331.1502 ©PureOlogy Research, LLC.

Indulge yourself with the ultimate in luxury colour care. NanoWorks ™ Shampoo and NanoWorks™ Condition.

Healthy. Lustrous. Radiant. Revitalized.

Longer Lasting Hair Colour GUARANTEED!®

l salon l MAGAZINE

FEATURES 40

CONSULTING WITH “THE DOCTOR”

55

MILITIA

60

OPTICAL ILLUSION

76

SCHOOLS OF THE TRADE

88

WHEN BUSINESS IS PLEASURE

PULSE A day on the road with BSG

CONTESSA GALLERY John Jen Hoe Chong speaks about his killer images

VISUAL FEATURE Joico’s new Artificial Reality collection

60 90

OPTICAL ILLUSION

ESTHETICS Top-quality training in esthetics

PROFILE Suzanne Martin scores by mixing craft with commerce

INTERIORS

REGULARS 14 16 42 45 92 96 98 100 112

EDITOR'S LETTER PUBLISHER'S NOTE WIN THIS TRENDS

WINNIPEG’S VAULT SALON AND SPA

HOT PRODUCTS EVENTS SCOOP PRESS PASS LAST WORD - John Steinberg

92

HOT PRODUCTS

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salon > april 06

Oncethereuponwas aa time, beautiful princess... ...who charmed the world on her own terms!

Look fabulous ever after in romantic new Nail Lacquers & LipSheers by OPI!

Nail Lacquers shown, left to right: I’M A PRINCESS, NCESS, YOU’RE NO NOT!, PRINCESSES RULE!, WHO NEEDS A PRINCE?, GOT A DATE TO-KNIGHT!, YOUR ROYAL SHYNESS, MY DADDY’S THE KING! LipSheers shown, left to right: SHEER SWEETNESS, SHEER CHARM, SHEER MAJESTY Model is wearing PRINCESSES RULE! and GOT A DATE TO-KNIGHT! on nails and SHEER MAJESTY on lips.

Call 800.341.9999 or visit www.opi.com. ©2006 OPI Products Inc.

EDITOR'S LETTER

ROAD LESSONS

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salon > april 06

Stephen Puddister Editor PS. Check out the Contessa 18 entry form in this issue. Deadline for entries is August 15, 2006.

PHOTO BABAK

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BUILDING A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS and keeping it that way is a constant struggle for even the savviest salon owners. Between seasonal changes, trends and product evolution, not to mention maintaining a solid client base, there seems to be no end to the challenges.

This became acutely clear to me a couple of weeks ago when I got the chance to visit 10 salons of various sizes, all in one day. I went on the road with BSG sales consultant Ralph Balestra in Mississauga, Ont. (see story page 40)—and people talked about all these issues.

I’d wanted to get a better understanding of what a distributor’s representative does. What I got was a huge lesson in how they can help make salon owners’ lives easier and their businesses more successful.

In the end, everyone wins.

Throughout the course of the day, as we travelled between the different salons, Ralph would explain what lines the next salon was carrying, if he was helping them develop promotions or introduce new lines, or working on educational training for the salon—and the list goes on. He outlined the intricacies of how he would help a salon develop a promotion, for example, to target a certain client group. As he explained why a certain promotion would work for one client and not for another, I began to realize the value in having the right sales consultant, someone who can understand your specific needs and help tailor the right promotion for you. Now, I am not saying that he or she can singlehandedly turn your business around. Ralph is just one example, but from his efforts I could see how sales consultants can be a key driving force in the development of success.

When I prodded some of his clients on why they like working with him, the response was something along the lines of, “He works for us.”

Or “He knows what works for us.” Or my favourite for the day: “With him, it’s like a partnership and we both have to work at it.” That says it all!

© 2006 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

800.833.NAIL

760.599.2900

www.creativenaildesign.com

PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 15 issue 05

www. b e a u t y n e t . co m

EDITOR

Stephen Puddister > ext. 120 | editor@beautynet.com ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > ext. 106 | art@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Morella Aguirre > ext. 105 | editorial@beautynet.com

FROM GOOD

MANAGING EDITOR (FRENCH)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com

TO GREAT

COPY EDITOR

Francie Wyland SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Pam Fulford

PRODUCTION & DESIGN COORDINATOR

MEASURING SUCCESS IN OUR INDUSTRY isn’t as easy as it seems.

How does one determine success? Is it being one of the best haircutters in town or having a stellar nail business with a huge repeat client base?

Does winning a competition like the Contessas ensure success? It may put

Guillermo Ohno > ext.113 | design@beautynet.com

you on the right path, but it’s only part of the formula.

As Michael Hlinka, business commentator for CBC Radio’s Metro Morning says, “The truly successful business model in an industry like the beauty business requires the combination of two elements: strong technical skills and modern marketing skills.”

Constantly upgrading your skills is paramount. Since we’re in a trendoriented business, it’s necessary to have training in new techniques and services all the time. That’s a given.

The area where a lot of salon owners seem to be really challenged is in business management, yet you can take your salon from good to great by paying close attention to this side of things. Good management practices include key components such as sound financial systems, effective human resource management and strong leadership skills, paying close attention to team-building initiatives and training.

An excellent program that recognizes owners of successful salons and spas worldwide for their entrepreneurial achievements is the Global Salon Business Awards, in which Salon Magazine is a media partner.

These are produced by the B.E.S.T. Foundation, which launched an educational program for salon owners through the UCLA Anderson School of Management in 2005. Check out www.salonbusinessawards.com.

In this issue of Salon you’ll read about several new and exciting stateof-the-art training facilities (see page 65). When a manufacturer makes this investment in education you know it’s onto something.

There are also very good business seminars at regional events such as the ABAs or distributor shows—ask your sales consultant about them.

Consider networking with salon owners you admire for their business skills as a way of improving your own. And your local bookstores are filled with books on leadership and management principles that can be easily applied to your business. Winn Claybaugh offers great guiding principles for the ultimate learning experience on page 24.

One thing to keep in mind is that learning requires discipline and an open mind. Like fitness training, it takes work and dedication to create new and better habits.

Sarah Higgins

Laura Dunphy Publisher

CONTRIBUTORS

Lori Colborne, Kim Hughes, Leanne Lake, John Steinberg, Rheanne Thakeray, Colette Wright EDITORIAL INTERN

SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy > ext. 110 | publisher@beautynet.com SENIOR ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Samantha Anobile > ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Jade Bateman > ext. 121 | jade@beautynet.com Marlee Podruchny > ext. 118 | marlee@beautynet.com PRODUCTION MANAGER

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HAIR BILL ROWLEY PHOTO BABAK

Published by Salon Communications Inc. TEL 416.869.3131 FAX 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Bloor St. E., Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3L4

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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C A N A D A From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416-869-3131, fax 416-869-3008 or e-mail circulation@beautynet. com. Our privacy officer is Les Hetherington at 416-869-3131 ext. 112.

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© Aveda Corp.

We may all work for different companies, but we all live on one Earth. Protecting it is bigger than any one of us. Right now one of America’s most effective conservation laws, the Endangered Species Act, is in danger of being replaced by less effective legislation. You can help save it by signing our petition online—or at participating salons, spas and stores. Last year, the Aveda network sent over 200,000 signatures to the White House and the United Nations and raised over 1 million dollars to help save threatened and endangered species. Together, we can do even more this year. We know you care, because it’s who you are. It’s what you do. Join us for Earth Month. Find Aveda at 888.222.4152 or aveda.com.

HAIR LINES

textbooktexture te

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HAIR STÉPHANE LEGROS PHOTO LEDA & ST-JACQUES

“I

F YOU CAN’T STYLE MULTI-ETHNIC HAIR, you’re closing the door to a whole world of clients,” says Christos Cox of Urban Textures Salons in Toronto. “In today’s urban centres it’s common to see people of mixed ethnicities. You will often get clients with hair that is unique to them. This means you need to be prepared to work on all types of textures, just as a fashion designer should be prepared to work with all types of textiles.”

Having spent the last 18 years working with and studying varying types of hair, Cox has become an expert in retexturing and modifying curls. Today, he wants to teach other stylists the skills and knowledge he has acquired over the years. “If you don’t get training and you just go ahead and try, you may fail and get discouraged,” he says. “In June, Urban Textures will be offering an advanced eight-week styling program on multi-textured hair for both established stylists and students. It will be designed to give stylists all the tools they need to deal with the challenge of modifying textures.”

Also in Toronto, Marca College offers multicultural hair design as part of its curriculum. Elaine Black, the program’s head instructor and curriculum designer, has been working with multicultural hair for over 20 years. “At Marca College, we are unique in that our program is in-house. There is a three-week cycle that deals with the topic specifically, but there is an instructor year-round.

This way, once students have completed the three-week cycle and are on the floor applying what they have learnt, there is still an instructor available to them.”

Adrian Carew, of Hair2 Inc., believes that this type of intensive instruction should be mandatory in all academies. “There are more educational options today than there were 10 years ago, but they still need to be intensified,” he states. At this point, Carew recommends taking your own initiative, researching the best in the business (when it comes to the hair texture you wish to learn about) and contacting them. Donna Dolphy, a Contessa 17 multicultural hairstylist finalist, agrees. “Find the best and learn from them,” she advises.

In fact, it is by personal initiative that many of the top stylists have educated themselves on different hair textures and the whole realm of multi-ethnic hair. Edwin Johnston, who has recently been working with afro-inspired styles and shapes, says he learned through practice, applying basic principles of hairstyling to different textures. Liz Colley, whose winning Contessa collection featured an all-Asian cast, says that for her it was a matter of supply and demand. “I worked in an Asian neighbourhood,” she says, “so I learned to do Asian hair.”—MA

The NEW Topchic NeutraLights: Lifts and Tones in one easy step.

Controlled highlifting on dark hair bases • 4 adaptable shades for natural base levels 2-5 to achieve beautiful,

©2006 KPSS Canada Ltd.

caramel to mocha tones • Time-saving colour service from as little as 15 minutes processing time* • Shine and protection of the hair structure with Topchic technology • Not for previously coloured hair

Violet Ash, Blue Ash, Green Ash and Ash Ash.

Favou r i te Pe r man e n t C ol ou r L i n e 2 0 0 5

For more information, call 1-800-387-3873 or contact your nearest GOLDWELL Distributor. www.goldwellusa.com *Utilizing Olymp HairMaster®, or with an open system only **AC Nielsen Market Decisions 2005

HAIR LINES

The Notorious B.E.T.T.I.E.

ON THE OCCASION OF the release of the film The Notorious Bettie Page, Salon Magazine asked pin-up aficionado Jimmy Lapointe of Pin-Up Hair in Vancouver to chat about his love of Bettie and the continuing power of the pin-up girl.

Q: A: Q: A: Q: A: Q: A:

Q: A:

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Why do you think Bettie Page still generates interest today?

I think Bettie Page is a timeless icon, like Marilyn Monroe. Her signature style—black bangs and long black hair—inspires my work over and over again.

Are you excited about the film?

I’m ecstatic. The look of the film is amazing. Gretchen Mol is perfect for the role of Bettie Page. I have never seen anyone portray her better.

What kind of research do you do when preparing a pin-upinspired collection?

I study classic pin-up artwork by Alberto Vargas and George Petty. When taking a modern direction on a classic look, it’s imperative to have a strong understanding of the style in its classic form.

How would you describe classic pin-up hair? What are its technical challenges?

Pin-up hair consists of beautiful rolls, smooth, cascading curls and flowing waves. Its main challenge is keeping all these elements balance. Also, it’s necessary keep the overall look super-clean and unrealistically perfect.

How do you keep pin-up hair designs fresh and relevant?

By continuing to explore different variations—like trying crimpy instead of curly, and messy instead of clean. —MA

Gretchen Mol as Bettie Page i n t o

HAIR JIMMY LAPOINTE MAKEUP JUSTIN EWART PHOTOS JONATHAN CRUZ FILM PHOTO ABBOT GENSER COPYRIGHT 2005 PICTUREHOUSE

Jimmy Lapointe recreates the iconic style of Bettie Page

www.isohair.com © Innovative Styling Options, Inc., division of Piidea Canada, Inc. Pointe-Claire QC H9R5N3 HAIR: ISO Artistic Team PHOTO: Hama Sanders

NEW

RED HOT REDS vibrant shade collection

Longer-lasting Red Hot Reds are now possible due to ISO’s color technology: - ISO’s exclusive Triactive Technology which provides deeper penetration of select red dyes into the cuticle - Patented Triplex-C™ Technology creates a protective shield around each hair strand for the longest-lasting reds possible Available now at your ISO distributor.

NEW Warm Autumn Red 7R (7.5)

NEW Rich Scarlet Red 6R (6.5)

NEW Deep Auburn Red 5R (5.5)

NEW Cabernet 5RV (5.57)

HAIR LINES

Changing brands

Why manufacturers do it

RECENTLY, JOICO AND KMS CALIFORNIA RELAUNCHED their entire hair care lines. These are big moves that certainly have implications for hairstylists and their clients. What do you now say to the client who loved the old product that may no longer be on the market? How do you find the right replacement for your client? Don’t despair. There are plenty of options—all good.

“Every product line has a life cycle. In this industry it usually ranges between five and seven years,” says Dede Sgardelis, marketing manager for Joico Canada in Montreal. “A line goes through the introduction, growth and maturity stages, and before it hits saturation most companies look to revamp the line, as did Joico. By this time there are new developments in research and ingredients that can move the products to a higher level of performance,” adds Sgardelis.

“We look at the introduction of KMS California as a new product launch, not a relaunch,” says Brian Ahrens, general manager of KPSS Canada, owners of KMS California. “The technology is entirely new, though the philosophy remains the same, as we continue to work with the latest technology and natural ingredients,” says Ahrens. “That is the exciting part of our industry that benefits the consumer.”

Baby boomers are now moving into their 50s and 60s, and even the Generation Xers are starting to turn 40 this year. These savvy consumers, not to mention the 20- and 30-something’s, are constantly looking for solutions and products to simplify their lives. Manufacturers have done their research and homework. For them it’s not about eliminating choices, it’s more about simplifying the choices so consumers can feel confident they are choosing the right products for their needs and lifestyle. “If you don’t make the choice easy, consumers will easily pass on your product,” says Sgardelis. —SP

Joico now offers results-oriented solutions for every hair type. Whether a client needs intense moisture, a boost of volume or TLC for her hair colour, each of six new Joico collections (plus styling and finishing products) is self-explanatory and delivers professional results with high-performance ingredients.

All of the products contain the Joico-exclusive Quadramine Complex—a blend of positively charged, low-molecularweight and small proteins that adhere to damaged hair quickly and effectively. The new Joico lines’ names are: • Daily Care • K-Pak • Silk Result • Moisture Recovery

• Body Luxe • Color Endure • Joico Style & Finish

• SilkSheen • MoistRepair • AddVolume

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• ColorVitality • HeadRemedy • FlatOut

• CurlUp • HairPlay • HairStay

PHOTOS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Each of the nine new KMS California product lines is infused with exotic combinations of native natural ingredients and specific support ingredients designed to stimulate users on multiple sensory levels. They have also developed a new technology, IOPS (Inside Out Perfecting System), a nutrient delivery system that works in tandem with the native natural and specific support ingredients, penetrating deep into the hair for a healthier and shinier look. The KMS lines are:

HAIR LINES

Education

Principles

WINN CLAYBAUGH HAS OWNED HAIR SALON BUSINESSES and beauty academies since 1983. Along with John Paul DeJoria, he is the founder and co-owner of Paul Mitchell The School. Claybaugh has given many seminars at ABA shows in Canada over the years. “Education has one purpose: to change behaviour,” says Claybaugh. “If, after a training session, nothing new is implemented and nothing changes, then the education and the money were wasted.” In his book Be Nice (Or Else!) he outlines his guiding principles for the ultimate learning experience. —SP

Guiding principles for the ultimate learning experience!

7.

8.

9.

10.

Education is an adventure of discovery.

People learn best when they’re having fun.

Making a mistake isn’t fatal. We make “discoveries,” not “mistakes.”

Learning is blocked when fear is present.

Praise is the best motivator.

The learning process isn’t good or bad; it’s simply working or not working.

If it’s working, we improve it. If it’s not working, we change it.

The word “education” means “to draw out,” not “to put in.”

Learning opportunities are everywhere.

The goal of education is to inspire change in beliefs and behaviour.

A staff that trains together stays together.

Talk Amongst Yourselves At the first-ever convention of teachers and school owners The Cosmetology Industry Association of British Columbia (CIABC) is proud to present the first-ever Canadian Teacher and School Owner Convention. This long-awaited event will take place October 14—16, 2006 at the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

The meet is open to all teachers and school owners in Canada, and plans are underway for an action-packed weekend agenda of learning and networking, including sponsored meals and a black-tie formal dinner with awards. Major sponsors include Schwarzkopf Professional, Pivot Point, Milady, OPI, Eufora and CIABC. “It will be a great opportunity for people to network with over 500 of their colleagues from across the county,” says Norma Ann Eaton, president of the CIABC. Eaton adds, “This is really designed to fill a void in this section of the cosmetology industry in Canada. We want to stand up and take responsibility to bring teachers and school owners together so they can connect, interact and learn from each other. We’re sure it will be a lot of fun, very educational, and we can’t wait to make it all happen!”

For more information, contact the CIABC office at 604.871.0222, e-mail info@ciabc.net or visit www.ciabc.net.—SP

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BOOK PHOTO CHRIS TSINTZIRAS CLAYBAUGH COURTESY JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Designed by KMS California © KMS Global LLC 2006

Inspired by the individuality, lifestyle and fusion of California

Want to learn more? Call (800) 454-5757 or log onto www.kmscalifornia.com.

HAIR LINES

Beauty Mama Mother’s Day promotions are ready DON’T FORGET TO CONTACT YOUR DISTRIBUTOR ABOUT MOTHER’S DAY PROMOTIONS! The big day is May 14. A great idea to boost retail sales!

Moms can pamper themselves with the OM Therapy Around You holistic line of pure organic care products.

Based on ancient Ayurvedic philosophy, the gift set includes a bath oil, moisturizing milk spray and aromatic water spray. Available through Intercosmetics.

Matrix has two options. The Six Months Of Well-Being gift set is a special duo promotion for Biolage therapies and includes a free subscription to Chatelaine magazine. The Six Months Of Beauty Gift is a duo promotion for the Matrix Look series and comes with a subscription to Elle Canada.

Joico Duos come in chic clear pouches that show off Joico’s brand new packaging. Help your clients choose the duo that’s right for their mom.

Diversion news Introducing new tamper-proof coding

T

HE NEWEST CHAPTER IN THE BATTLE against diversion of professional beauty products has just been released. L’Oréal Professionnel recently introduced a state-of-the-art tamper-proof coding system to their distributor partners across North America. The new proprietary coding system was developed over a two-year period with an investment of over $1.5 million (U.S.).

“We are very keen to make progress in terms of fighting diversion ,and I see L’Oréal taking strong steps to deal with the issue,” says Peter Alexander, general manager of Maritime Beauty Supply. He adds, “We have implemented our operational plan and within weeks we will have all tracking in place.”

“The solidarity of the distributors across North America and the technical strength of the coding system will make this program successful,” says Minter Dial, senior vice-president, general manager of L’Oréal Canada’s

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Professional Products Division. According to Dial’s statistics, diversion is estimated to represent about 2 per cent of the total sales of professional products in Canada compared to 7 to 8 per cent in the United States. While the percentage is smaller here, the number has grown from under 1 percent just 18 months ago to its current rate.

“More than ever, L’Oréal is dedicated to cutting diversion of all our product lines. The effectiveness of the new program is expected to be almost immediate,” says Dial. “My game plan, in regard to our brands, is to cut it by 50 per cent.”

L’Oréal is asking salon owners and stylists to help do their part to stop diversion by calling the diversion hotline toll-free number: 800.503.3997 or writing to nodivert@aol.com with information on diverters and/or collectors.—SP

HAIR LINES

INTERNATIONAL EXPOSURE! L’Oréal Professionnel wants you for the 2006 tecni.art runway style competition ARE YOU A FEARLESS COMPETITOR who happens to be under 25 years old? Would you like to experience the excitement of styling hair at Paris Fashion Week? Do you like the adrenaline rush of having to perform under pressure? If your answers to these questions are yes, then you should enter L’Oréal Professionnel’s tecni.art runway style competition 2006.

One lucky Canadian hairstylist will get to go to Paris Fashion Week to work on the models who strut the runways. This is an incredible opportunity for any up-and-coming stylist who wants to make a mark and get his or her work noticed. For details on the contest, check out the inside front cover of the March 2006 issue of Salon Magazine or call 800.361.8017 ext 3245. Contest deadline is June 30, 2006.—SP

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The British press covers Contessa 17 ANOTHER GREAT REASON TO COMPETE in the Contessa Awards is the possibility of international press coverage of your work. British trade publication Hairdressers Journal International dedicated a two-page spread to Contessa 17 winners in its February 10-16 issue.

Images from Robert Cory, Liz Colley, Kelly Hunter and Adriana Balea were among those showcased.—MA

!

AVEDA ENVIRONMENTAL TIP CHOOSE RECYCLED e If you’re in charge of purchasing offic r othe and ry supplies, choose statione tpos office supplies with the maximum le, and consumer recycled content availab e sibl pos er buy the lightest-weight pap for the job.

The cure for your wintertime blues could be just a dream away.

Now’s the time to slip off to a tropical island and that long-dreamed-of beach vacation.To make those dreams come true, even if you can’t get there, get your hands on Essie’s new Spring ‘06 shades: creamy neutrals and sheers that will bring a hint of warm breezes and lazy beach life to every real dream or dream vacation.

Sandy Beach

Room With a View

Pink Glove Service

Need a Vacation

My Private Cabana

Heavenly Sunset

Win a Tropical Vacation to the Cayman Islands!

Enter wherever Essie polishes are sold, or online at www.essie.com

Call 1.8OO. 232 .1155 or visit www.essie.com Heavenly Sunset 542, My Private Cabana 543, Need a Vacation 544, Pink Glove Service 545, Room With a View 546, Sandy Beach 547

HAIR LINES

Taxing Issues Get the facts that affect you DEATH AND TAXES, TWO ISSUES NONE OF US WANT TO DEAL WITH. It’s true that both are unpleasant, but it’s best to deal with them head on. The federal rules apply to everyone, but in the provincial tax system there may be different rules and benefits.

Doing a little research on your own may save you money.

In British Columbia, for example:

Getting Fancy Hair accessories add that extra oomph

H

air is the ultimate fashion accessory. Scarves, headbands, barrettes and bobby pins take this adage to the next level—they accessorize the accessory. Furthermore, they’re excellent tools for growing your retail business.

From a business standpoint, accessories offer vast potential for profitability. Nucraze, a beauty accessory company, suggests up to 100 per cent markup from trade price to suggested retail. Not bad for items that are most often unplanned purchases.

However, there are certain techniques that hairstylists can use to trigger these impulse buys. Ruth-Anne Boyd, director of marketing at Nucraze suggests a combination of a few strategies.

1- Start with products you believe in. For Nucraze, this involves fabricating top-quality collections.

2- Remember that merchandising and lighting are key. Displays that are strategically lit will sparkle and invite clients to take a closer look. Savvy salon owners will place a display near the cash-out area to attract attention.

3- Stylists need to walk the talk. This involves wearing the pieces themselves as well as pitching them to their clients, especially if there is a special occasion on the horizon. Aldo Catracchia, owner of Hairport Salon in Kleinberg, Ont., keeps a small grouping of accessories right at his workstation, giving his clients a chance to closely view and sample the items. Touching an item and seeing how it looks in the hair can close the sale.—MA

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1. You must pay PST on cosmetics and beauty aids taken out of your resale inventory and used to provide services.

2. Promotional gifts or “no-charge items” are often given away with a minimum purchase of other products—say $35. This type of giveaway item is part of the sale, and is non-taxable for you to purchase. It must meet one of the following conditions: • It is physically included with the purchased item—like a “free” hairbrush packaged with shampoo.

• Your customer receives the giveaway item or bonus as a condition of purchasing other product(s).

• You advertise that you only give it away with the purchase of other products.

“In Ontario, at the time of registration vendors are provided with information on the Retail Sales Tax (RST, also known as PST) and how it applies to their business,” says Manuel Alas-Sevillano of the Ontario Ministry of Finance. “The ministry also holds seminars on the tax in various centres for business owners. One publication of particular interest is our Small Business Pointer 901— The Basics of the Retail Sales Tax.”—SP Resources by province: Telephone Numbers:

Web Sites:

BC: 877.388.4440

www.gov.bc.ca/rev

AB: 780.427.3035

www.finance.gov.ab.ca

SK: 800.667.6102

www.gov.sk.ca

MB: 800.959.5525

www.gov.mb.ca/finance

ON: 800.263.7965

www.trd.fin.gov.on.ca

QC: 800.567.4692

www.revenu.gouv.qc.ca

NB: 888.762.8600

www.snb.ca

NS: 902.424.6300

www.gov.ns.ca/fina/

PE: 902.368.4070

www.gov.pe.ca/pt/taxandland

NL: 709.729.6517

www.fin.gov.nl.ca/fin/businesstax.html

NT: 800.661.0820

www.fin.gov.nt.ca

PHOTO CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Accessory options from Nucraze

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HAIR LINES

Barcelonabeckons

Beauty Business Forum

THE 2006 GLOBAL SALON BUSINESS FORUM AND AWARDS are set to take place from June 3 to 6 in the beautiful city of Barcelona, Spain. This is a unique opportunity to learn from a number of high-profile business movers and shakers. The weekend forum of education and networking seminars is designed to provide up-to-the-minute information in business management, leadership, marketing and technology. Among those making keynote presentations and special guest appearances are: • • • • •

Vidal Sassoon, industry icon and entrepreneur. Topic: Entrepreneurial Spirit Dr. Alfred E. Osborne, senior associate dean, Anderson School of Management, UCLA. Topic: Salon Strategy Xavier Sala-i-Martin, professor of economics, Columbia University. Topic: Globalization and Small Businesses Lluís Llongueras, Llongueras International. Topic: Artistry and Inspiration Vivienne Mackinder, internationally renowned stylist and educator

The weekend of spectacular events, education and networking wraps up with the Global Salon Business Awards—hosted by Hollywood TV personality and entrepreneur Leeza Gibbons. The leading salon owners from 22 countries will be recognized and honoured for their achievements as the coveted salon entrepreneur of the year and entrepreneurial excellence awards are presented.

Tickets for the 2006 Global Salon Business Forum & Awards—produced by The B.E.S.T. Foundation—are limited. Salon entrepreneurs are encouraged to register immediately online by visiting www.salonbusinessawards.com—SP

Focus on your existing clients

“ONE OF THE EASIEST WAYS to market your salon business is to focus on your existing clientele,” says Michael Conlin, director of sales for Salonware, based in Mississauga Ontario. “These customers already know you and can help you promote your services if you have the right marketing strategies in place.”

Everyone loves a reward for doing something good. Conlin suggests that by recognizing and rewarding the people who are already committed to your salon you can improve your bottom line. He gives the example of your client Mary Smith. If Mary comes to the salon once every six weeks and experiences a smooth, efficient and tranquil visit and leaves with a fabulous new look and the right products for maintenance, she will tell her friend Martha about the experience.

If, the next time she comes in, you take Mary’s experience a step further and reward her with a free treatment for referring Martha to your

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salon, Mary will probably repeat the referral process with someone else.

And since Mary and Martha are friends, they more than likely have similar lifestyles and socio-economic backgrounds—and spending habits. Now you have a new client in Martha, and treating her like Mary will create a chain reaction for building business. “When clients see that you value them, they develop a trust and they visit more, buy more and spread the word more,” says Conlin.

To track the success of this marketing strategy, and to keep everyone focused, an automated salon system can be your best investment to achieve greater business success. This is just one example of how automation can help you. Conlin gives in-depth seminars at over 30 trade shows, including several ABA shows annually. His seminars are titled Automated Marketing Zero Effort/ Managing The Business For Profit, and Everyone Can Influence The Sale.—SP

PHOTOS COURTESY GLOBAL SALON BUSINESS AWARDS

MARKETING Strategies

HAIR LINES

Farouk Systems USA imports talent from north of the border

Canadian-raised Shauky Gulamani, president of Farouk Systems USA, teamed up with Canadian-raised Natalie Glebova, a.k.a. the reigning Miss Universe, for a transformationthemed photo shoot. Using Chi products and tools, Gulamani showcases a wide range of looks, taking the beauty queen from soft and casual to glamorous and über-sexy. The Gulamani-Glebova collaboration yields fabulous results. —MA

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COURTESY FAROUK SYSTEMS HAIR SHAUKY GULAMANI MAKEUP GEORGINA LUSCAP PHOTOS ARTHUR GARCIA

CANADIAN FORCES

HAIRWORLDCOMPETITIONS Sign up now with CCCNA

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ecognized by OMC Hairworld, the Canadian Cosmetologists Competition National Association (CCCNA) was founded in January 2006. Canada has paid its dues for 2006 and is now eligible to compete in OMC Hairworld competitions. And what better way to kick things off than by sending a team to Moscow for the world championships in July?

The CCCNA will be holding evaluation competitions at the Vancouver and Toronto ABA shows. They also welcome all independent competitors to join them in Moscow. However, anyone wishing to compete in Moscow must be a registered member of the CCCNA. In February, Norma Ann Eaton, president of the CCCNA, attended the OMC Hairworld Jury Seminar of the Europe Zones, in Darmstadt, Germany. Topics included step-by-step demonstrations of the technical and fashion competition trends for the 2006 world championship, as well as the first OMC juror qualification examination.

CCCNA Board Members: Norma Ann Eaton, president Fabio Sementilli, artistic director, jr. team Sabino Di Tacchio, artistic director, sr. team David Cole, judge Marjorie Clarke, member at large Stephen Cheung, member at large Mirella Roti-Sementilli, member at large For applications to join or for more information, visit the CCCNA link at www.ciabc.net or call 604.871.0222. Applications will also be available at the Vancouver and Toronto ABA shows.—SP

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SAVE THE DATE! NAHAs are coming!

TICKETS FOR THE NORTH AMERICAN HAIRSTYLING AWARDS (NAHAs) go on sale this month. This year’s gala awards ceremony happens Sunday, July 16 at Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino in Las Vegas. Every year Canadians take home the top honours in many categories at the NAHAs. Entries are judged in two rounds, first by peers (stylists, makeup artists, photographers) and then by industry editors.

Finalists will be announced this month as well. For more information and ticket info, check out www.hairstylingawards.com.

The NAHAs take place during Cosmoprof North America, which takes place July 16 to 18, 2006 at the Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas. For information, visit www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com.—SP

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35

COLOUR

Practice Makes Perfect

Especially when correcting or changing colour

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salon > april 06

PHOTO COURTESY GOLDWELL

C

OLOUR CORRECTION OR CHANGE IS PROBABLY ONE OF THE MOST FEARED SERVICES IN THE SALON. Learning corrective colour techniques or taking a client from one seasonal colour change to another can be challenging, especially when practice models might have different problems than those you see behind the chair. To give colourists a more realistic experience in practising colour correction or change, Goldwell, in partnership with Certified Learning in Cosmetology (CLiC), has created the Goldwell Education Series Corrective 5-Zone Mannequin.

Designed specifically for advanced colour application, with 6-inch human hair, the mannequin features five of the most common colour challenges found in the salon: porous bleached hair, under-processed lift, natural black hair, vertical blonde highlights and porous horizontal banding. “With this new artist’s mannequin, colourists can now practise every corrective service from filling to toning, from lightening to tint-backs to dimensional filling,” says Ivo Tiberio, director of education for KPSS Canada, owners of Goldwell.

“In our Correct It, Creatively! class, we focus on formulations and applications from behind-the-chair experiences, so this mannequin provides the perfect canvas,” explains Tiberio. “The best feature is that we can use Goldwell’s entire colour continuum on real-life corrective scenarios, so we can see all the options. In addition, the mannequin’s hair features different stress levels, so we can see how different colours will hold on each.”

The benefits of training on the 5-zone mannequin are two-fold for the colourist. Number one is mastering colour correction, which will save time and money in the salon by eliminating trial and error. The second benefit is increased customer loyalty and retention due to predictable and accurate colour results.—SP

Cut hair.

Not profits.

You’re in the business of beauty.

Aveda education helps you stay focused on your business. We give you the tools to succeed – from basic hairstyling courses, to on-going advanced technical training. We can even bring education to you with our customized in-salon programs. Find out how Aveda can boost your creativity, and your bottom line.

Call 800.689.1066 for more information.

THE NUMBERS GAME Getting in on the men’s market

L

ET’S FACE IT, WITH THE BOOMING POPULARITY of TV shows like Queer Eye for the Straight Guy in the past couple of years, men have become more aware of the importance of good grooming. And thanks in part to that same show, men have gotten lots of information on grooming products and their usage.

Manufacturers like Redken, Goldwell, American Crew, Dikson and others are bringing more men’s products into the market because they are keenly aware of the possibilities for tapping into this niche market as a revenue stream. They know that any savvy salon owner with male clients will be trying to connect with this market.

To give you some numbers to think about, here are some results from a men’s hair product usage and attitude survey conducted across Canada for the L’Oréal group. Of the interviewees, broken down by region, 46 per cent in the Maritimes, 43 per cent in Quebec, 40 per cent in Ontario and 44 per cent in Western Canada said they had used hair styling products in the past year. The average is 42 per cent for the country.

Broken down by age, 81 per cent of the 16-to-24-year-olds used styling products. Sixty per cent of the 25-to-34-year-olds were also styling product users. “We know that the 16-to-24year-olds are in the habit-forming stages of product use, and as they get older a lot of them carry the habits with them,” says Darren Chidlaw, product manager, Redken for Men and Prescription Hair Care. Chidlaw adds, “So what is important is that you want to encourage the use of styling products now.”

Hairstylists and salon owners can respond to this news not only by putting more men’s styling products on their shelves, but also by chatting up their male clients about the products while they are sitting in the chair. According to the survey, 43 per cent of men are trying to achieve a trendy, classic or funky look with their products. And 51 per cent are trying for a natural look. You can teach them how to achieve these looks on the spot! Then sell them the take-home products.—SP

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COURTESY VIDAL SASSOON HAIR TIM HARTLEY COLOUR ANNIE HUMPHREYS PHOTO ULI WEBER AT TERRI MANDUCA LTD

MEN

SHAPING HEADS

Design + Technology + Performance

Introducing Sterling Bravura WAHL Canada • 80 Orfus Road, Toronto, ON M6A 1M1 • Phone: 416.787.4500 • Fax: 416.787.0551 • For a distributor near you, Contact Wahl Canada

PULSE

CONSULTING WITH “ THE DOCTOR ”

AIRPORT A AVENUE

DIXIE ROAD

MClAUHLIN

Stephen Puddister spends a day on the road with BSG sales consultant Ralph Balestra

KENNEDY

Tools of the trade—Big Red gum is a favourite, after the laptop and cellphone, of course.

“Never leave home without them!”

Meadowland Meado and STEELS A AVENUE

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Just like one of the family at the Barber’s Chair in Erin Mills Town Centre BURNHAMTHORPE ERIN MILLS RKWY

EGLINTON ON A AVENUE VENUE

MISSISSAUGA

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FOR ABOUT THREE AND A HALF YEARS, Ralph Balestra has been “the Doctor” of shampoo, colour, styling products, promotions, supplies DERRY ROAD DERR and even tool maintenance. Balestra won’t give up the story on how he got the nickname many of his clients call him by. He says he’ll put it into a book he plans to write when he retires.

Nicknames and jokes aside, to say Balestra is a sales representative to his salon clients would not be correct. More the reality, he consults with his clients and helps them build business. This becomes clear from the first salon we visit.

BRITANNIAUndeniably, this guy is focused.

BRITANNIA “This is a very competitive business for everyone. And for me it’s a bit like running my own business. I get huge support from BSG. They give me the training, support, motivation and EGLINTON EGLINT ON tools to make it all happen for my clients and succeed out on the road,” he explains as we hustle from one appointment to the next. Watching Balestra as he interacts with his clients, you first notice that he listens to their needs, then that he takes a solution-oriented approach in response. “I have a broad range of clients. It doesn’t matter if they are a key account or a developing one—everyone gets the same level of customer service. I need to deliver for the client every time so that they can deliver for their customers, and that creates a winning formula for everyone.” A testament to Balestra’s level of customer service is the fact that 92 per cent of his clients order directly from him. They will not phone in orders if he is away.

They wait for him to return. —SP

MISSISSAU AUGA

A warm welcome from Lina Lomangino and the team at Michael's Health and Beauty Spa

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d at Lords with Peter Spro Tuesdays end One re ua ir Care in Sq and Ladies Ha

Aging Hair Is Not Age Related

©2005 DAVEXLABS LLC

NEW!

CP Anti Aging – Discover Younger Looking Hair Hair’s true age is determined by its length and exposure to Age-Accelerators like color processing, heat and harsh environmental elements. CP Anti Aging combines the newest Peptide Technology with Nutraceutical Plants & KB2 Healers to restore youthful health and radiance to hair exposed to AgeAccelerators. Hair has more shine, strength and elasticity, like when it was younger.

For your nearest L’ANZA distributor, call Key Beauty Systems toll-free (800) 661-1424

WIN THIS Tell us what you really think Fill out the form below and return it by April 30, 2006 for a chance to win a $300 Nexture kit from ISO! A random draw will take place May 1, 2006. The winner will be contacted by phone. Contest open to professional hairstylists only.

The ISO Get Nextured kit includes: • The Nexture styling kit • Texture tools • Texture hair care products • An ISO texture class • Training DVD, texture technique guide and more!

Take T ake It Away Mail or fax us your answers by April 30, 2006

5.

Salon: _____________________________________________ Address: ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ Phone number: ______________________________________ E-mail: _____________________________________________

1.

2.

3.

4.

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6.

7.

Are your clients asking for texture? a) yes b) no What is the age of your average texture client? a) under 40 b) over 40 How many chemical texture services have you performed on clients under 40 years of age in the past three months? ___________________________________ ___________________________________________ Please choose from one of the following. I am: a) Very comfortable with chemical texture services b) Not sure what my options are c) Not comfortable with chemical texture

salon > april 06

8.

Not comfortable performing chemical texture services?

Why not? a) Challenges related to colour-treated hair b) Lack of educational resources c) Afraid of the “poodle look” d) Time constraints e) Other: ___________________________________ Are you interested in learning more about texture? a) yes b) no I like working with: a) straight hair b) wavy hair c) curly hair d) super-curly hair I have been a hairstylist for: a) 1 to 5 years b) 6 to 10 years c) 11 to 20 years d) over 21 years

Mail or fax your completed from to: Salon’s Take It Away Contest 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902 Toronto, ON M4W 3L4

PHOTO CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Name: _____________________________________________

OUTSTANDING REWARDS FOR OUTSTANDING CUSTOMERS!

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

LONDON, ENGLAND

SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

NEW YORK CITY, NEW YORK

VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA

TORONTO, ONTARIO

Let Goldwell be YOUR partner of choice These Outstanding Customers Have!

Capucci Salon & Spa ON • Cinelli Hair ON • De Berardinis ON Hair Tech Coiffure ON • Jeromes AB The Hair Factory - Churchill Square NL • Three Small Rooms ON Milica Hair Studio BC • Quinn's of Kensington AB Salon Blue BC • Anna's Hair Design BC • Cabello Salon & Spa BC Changes Hair & Esthetics Salon ON • Changing Times BC Concepts Day Spa ON • Emporium Hair Studio ON Extreme Ends Salon & Spa BC • Fashionette MB • George's Unisex ON Haartek ON • Hair Metrix Design Team ON Hyde Park BC • Ian Marc's NS • Moda Fina BC • Salon Status Inc. ON Shear Heaven ON • Studio & Spa Aphrodite ON The Hair Connection (K.G.) NL • Timothy & Co. ON

Goldwell will host these loyal customers at various global destinations.

All-expense paid travel - just one of the many rewards to experience.

The Goldwell Salon Alliance Program (GSA) is a Business Building Program for Business-Minded Salon Owners. Interested?

To find out more about the GSA Program, please call 1-800-387-3873 or contact your nearest Goldwell Distributor. www.goldwellusa.com

TRENDS

hairtrends

by Morella Aguirre

This month, the Italian

Style

Framesi team look to the earth for their natural colour palette. Antoinette Beenders, international creative director of Aveda, finds her inspiration in 17th-century Dutch paintings. Canada’s Adrian

Carew searches for a woman’s inner beauty.

Here’s what they saw…

april 06 < salon

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TRENDS HAIR: THE ITALIAN STYLE FRAMESI TEAM MAKEUP: SYLVIA DELL’ORTO WARDROBE: EVELYN EFFRIM BOTCHEY PHOTOS: MARIO GOMEZ

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Military Boy SUPER-SHORT AND SUPER-BOYISH—IT’S CLEAN, IT’S SIMPLE AND IT’S TOTALLY CUTE. NEED WE SAY MORE?

The Standards BEAUTIFUL

BLONDES

AND

RAVISHING

REDHEADS ARE ALWAYS WELCOME NEWS. P PAIR THEM UP WITH LOVELY LAYERED LOCKS.

Rush of Red SOFT MOVEMENT AND NATURAL TONES GET US EVERY TIME. HERE, THE LOOK COMES TOGETHER WITH A GORGEOUS RED HUE AND SMOOTH, AIRY LAYERS.

april 06 < salon

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TRENDS COLLECTION: PURE DUTCH HAIR: ANTOINETTE BEENDERS FOR AVEDA COLOUR: BRUNO ELORRIOROZ FOR AVEDA MAKEUP: YASMIN HEINZ WARDROBE: ANN SHORE

Joan of Arc-Inspired A SWEET, INNOCENT AND YET SLIGHTLY ANDROGYNOUS TAKE ON THE BOB. A SHORT ROUNDED FRINGE AND HEAVY LAYERS ARE PARTNERED WITH A BLUE/BLACK SEMI-PERMANENT DEPOSIT-ONLY AVEDA COLOUR.

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HAIR FRANK CINI MAKEUP CHERYL GUSHUE PHOTO DOUG MCMILLAN CONTESSA 17

PHOTOS: ZANNA

Portrait Style A VERY SIMPLE AND INNOCENT-LOOKING CUT HIGHLIGHTED WITH HONEY TONES AND DISHEVELLED WAVES. A BOLD WAY TO FRAME A BEAUTIFUL FACE.

Royal Dutch HERE’S ONE FOR THE FASHION-FORWARD GIRLY GIRLS: TWO LONG FISHTAIL BRAIDS, PULLED OUT AND RUFFLED AND PINNED TO THE TOP OF THE HEAD.

april 06 < salon

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TRENDS

HAIR: ADRIAN, HAIR2 INC. COLOUR: RAFAEL, HAIR2 INC. MAKEUP: SHAWNA PHOTOS: ROSWELL ANDERSON

High Contrast BLONDE AND COPPER PANELS ARE SET ABLAZE AGAINST A DEEP, RICH CHOCOLATEBROWN BASE. FOCUS IS MAINTAINED AT THE TEMPLES WITH A STRONG AND POWERFUL FRINGE.

Multi-layered Woman EXTENSIVE LAYERING AND A SOFT FRINGE CREATE A DELICATE BASE FOR A DARK EBONY BASE AND GOLDEN-BROWN HIGHLIGHTS.

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[EXPLORE] [EXPERIENCE] [EXPAND]

Text by Stephen Puddister

American Crew and Mop unveil 2006 collections ON JANUARY 22, Salon Magazine was among a group of 700-plus beauty pros and VIPs at Denver’s Cable Center for a high-energy show unveiling American Crew’s 2006 collection called Citizen. Texture, waves and movement highlighted the collection’s look and feel in short, medium and long versions that drew some of their inspiration from the beatnik generation. The looks were complemented by bright-coloured clothing provided by Duckie Brown, the new “it” label in menswear. Also presented in the same show was MD8 (Modern Direction, 8th edition) Modern Organic Products 2006 collection. This year’s MOP styles feature natural hair textures, cut and styled with a modern twist. A total of 78 models strutted the fast-paced runway show to the delight of the crowd. S

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april 06 < salon

Militia

CONTESSA GALLERY John Jen Hoe Chong speaks about his killer images Edited by Morella Aguirre

WAS USED TO CREATE

W

MOVEMENT. THE CROWN

models themselves. Inspiration also came from

“THIS IS MY FAVOURITE IMAGE. I THINK SHE REPRESENTS THE FEELING OF OUR COLLECTION THE BEST.” TECHNIQUE: A RAZOR CUT

OF THE HEAD WAS ACCENTUATED BY SHORTER

e call our collection Militia. It’s a series

of strong and fierce images mostly inspired by the military fashion trends, which I believe we took to

PIECES. THE FRINGE

the next level. The models became renditions of

WAS EMPHASIZED BY

how we think futuristic militants may look.

DISCONNECTED PIECES AND

Working and communicating as a team became

COLOUR PLACEMENT.

an imperative part of the process. Colourists

COLOUR: CRYSTAL BROWN

Crystal Brown and Alann Sluser and I got started with a series of meetings. We worked together and communicated our ideas, not only with each other but also with our makeup artist, Giancarlo Intini, and our photographer, Babak. The vest our models are wearing actually belongs to Babak, who suggested using it after we discussed our idea. I can’t stress the importance of this type of teamwork enough. By building a team of people with different strengths you will create great things.

The actual styling process began with the cut; colour was placed afterwards. Crystal and Alann worked with panels or blocks of colour rather than highlights. Colour placement was determined by the cut itself and was designed to enhance the style’s quirks and shapes. We think we’ll see more of this type of colour treatment. Long gone are the days of “only your hairdresser knows for sure.” If you’re fashionable, your hair will be coloured in an obvious way.

HAIR: JOHN JEN HOE CHONG COLOUR: CRYSTAL BROWN AND ALANN SLUSER MAKEUP: GIANCARLO INTINI PHOTOS: BABAK april 06 < salon

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CONTESSA GALLERY

“WHEN WORKING WITH TEXTURED STYLES, LESS IS DEFINITELY MORE. WORK SLOWLY AND DON’T TOUCH THE HAIR ANY MORE THAN YOU HAVE TO. TAKE THE TIME TO CONSTANTLY EVALUATE THE SHAPE YOU’RE CREATING.” TECHNIQUE: HAIR WAS SET

BY WRAPPING SECTIONS AROUND LARGE PIPE CLEANERS, ALLOWING FOR A SOFT FINISH. COLOUR: ALANN SLUSER

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TECHNIQUE: HAIR WAS SET

BY WRAPPING SECTIONS AROUND LARGE HAIR PINS IN A FIGURE EIGHT WRAP STYLE AND USING L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TECNI.ART PLI THERMAL SETTING SPRAY. COLOUR: CRYSTAL BROWN

TECHNIQUE: HAIR WAS BLOW-DRIED, FLATIRONED AND BROUGHT TIGHT TO THE HEAD. A BLOW DRYER AND HAIRSPRAY WERE USED TO LIFT HAIR AND CREATE AIRINESS AND MOVEMENT. COLOUR: ALANN SLUSER

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CONTESSA GALLERY

TECHNIQUE: SET WITH LARGE PERM RODS AS A STACK PERM (AGAIN WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TECNI.ART PLI).

COLOUR: CRYSTAL BROWN

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S

FEATURE Artifice These styles work with contradictions. Geometric shapes are cut close to the face and end abruptly as they collide with longer strands. A blonde base is contrasted with splashes of chocolate brown, a treatment that outlines and clearly defines the cut’s lines and angles.

PRODUCTS: JOICO K-PAK CARE PRODUCTS, JOICO CRÈME WAX AND JOICO K-PAK PROTECTIVE HAIRSPRAY

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FEATURE

Joico constructs an “Artificial Reality” for spring 2006

Optical O ptical ILLUSION

Text by Morella Aguirre

Joico constructs an Artificial Reality for spring 2006

Y

Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

ou’ve done enough cutting, contouring and colouring to agree: when it comes to beauty, reality isn’t always what it seems. In Joico’s latest collection, Artificial Reality, artistic director Damien Carney explores this idea while reinventing one of the season’s hottest trends, geometrics. Carney reconstructs classic bobs and sharp bangs and reworks them into fresh and dynamic asymmetrical forms—kind of like a Cubist interpretation of a Sassoon cut. Hair is shaped to define facial structure, exposing cheekbones or moulding bluntly over brow lines. By adding contrasting chunks of colour, colourist Sue Pemberton accentuates the collection’s angular and defined shapes. Artificial Reality is made up of three identities: Artifice, Simulated and Surreal.

HAIR: DAMIEN CARNEY COLOUR: SUE PEMBERTON MAKEUP: SAMMY MOURABIT PHOTOS: HAMA SANDERS

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FEATURE Simulated Shoulder-length hair is cut into disconnected layers, creating an unruly and highly textured feel. A deep auburn base is highlighted with strawberry blonde highlights that range from pencil-thin to thick and chunky.

PRODUCTS: JOICO BODY LUXE SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER AND ROOT LIFT, JOIMIST MEDIUM SHAPING AND FINISHING SPRAY

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Surreal Shorter layers are cut underneath long, wispy pieces that can either be styled straight, to focus attention on the wearer’s eyes, or curly, for a softer, girlier look.

Deep amaretto, golden blonde and soft copper make up the colour palette.

S

PRODUCTS: JOICO COLOR ENDURE CARE PRODUCTS, JOICO BRILLIANCE POMADE AND JOIMIST MEDIUM SHAPING AND FINISHING SPRAY

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Upcoming Great Lengths Education Seminars: APRIL 23-24 TORONTO, ONTARIO MAY 7-8 VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA MAY 28-29 TORONTO, ONTARIO JUNE 4-5 QUEBEC CITY, QUEBEC JUNE 11-12 CALGARY, ALBERTA JUNE 25-26 TORONTO, ONTARIO JULY 9-10 HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA JULY 23-24 TORONTO, ONTARIO AUGUST 13-14 TORONTO, ONTARIO SEPTEMBER 10-11 TORONTO, ONTARIO SEPTEMBER 24-25 MONTREAL, QUEBEC OCTOBER 15-16 VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA OCTOBER 29-30 TORONTO, ONTARIO NOVEMBER 12-13 QUEBEC CITY, QUEBEC NOVEMBER 19-20 TORONTO, ONTARIO DECEMBER 10-11 TORONTO, ONTARIO

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement For information on becoming a Certified Great Lengths Extension Artist, call HSC International at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com

Great Lengths Hair Extensions uses only 'first quality' 100% human hair strands. No glues, waxes or related hair damage. Available in 35 hand-blended shades plus 14 “fashion” shades. Comfortable and completely natural to wear. Available only through Great Lengths Certified Extension Artists.

www.hscinternational.com Before Great Lengths

FEATURE

BY STEPHEN PUDDISTER

BEAUTY EDUCATION IS ABOUT TO GO DOWNTOWN IN A BIG WAY. HAIRSTYLISTS AT EVERY STAGE IN THEIR CAREERS WILL SOON BE HITTING THE STREETS OF TORONTO IN A FLURRY TO LEARN AND SOAK UP THE VIBE AND INSPIRATIONS OF THE CITY AT THE SAME TIME.

PHOTO COURTESY ONTARIO TOURISM INTERNATIONALCOPYRIGHT 2006

FOUR OF THE BIGGEST NAMES IN THE HAIR INDUSTRY, AVEDA, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, MATRIX AND REDKEN 5TH AVENUE NYC ARE ABOUT TO OPEN THE DOORS OF STATE-OF-THE-ART FACILITIES DESIGNED TO TEACH ALL

reclassified

Toronto gets Canada’s first hair district

ASPECTS OF THE BUSINESS. REDKEN, MATRIX AND L’ORÉAL ARE HOUSED IN THE SAME FACILITY, AND AVEDA IS A MERE COUPLE OF BLOCKS AWAY—ALL IN HISTORIC PROPERTIES. SALON MAGAZINE’S STEPHEN PUDDISTER DECIDED TO TAKE A FEW HARDHAT TOURS AND TALK TO THE KEY EDUCATIONAL DIRECTORS OF THESE NEW ACADEMIES.

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FEATURE

Aveda Institute Toronto An all-in-one learning experience This month, Aveda celebrates the opening of Toronto’s first Aveda Institute and Canada’s first hybrid Aveda Institute Academy. This multi-level educational haircutting and colouring facility is housed in a historic building dating back to 1841. The building is located in the heart of down town Toronto near the famous St. Lawrence Market.

“Location was an important consideration when sourcing the facility,” says Ray Civello, CEO, Collega for Aveda, Civello Group. “We wanted our students to have easy access to public transit and be in a vibrant, stimulating environment close to other learning centres where students intermingle.”

Within this hybrid, students get to learn theory and in-salon practical and advanced skills, all in one facility.

Aveda takes the holistic approach to learning. “The Aveda Institute is a worldwide network of schools that offers basic education for haircutting and hair colouring for young aspiring stylists,” says Civello. “The facility will also offer a complete ecosystem of education that is designed to educate, inspire, nurture, refresh and connect people who aspire to a lifestyle grounded in wellness, healing and social responsibility.”

“I think what’s really unique about our education is that we provide the most inspiring environments for training anywhere in the world,” adds Civello. While technical skills are key for success in the beauty industry, students also get to focus on business success through learning teambuilding, retailing and client retention.

THE AVEDA INSTITUTE • This 9,000-square-foot building is configured to allow for 67 hairstyling stations on three fully equipped floors. Twenty-one stations are on the main Academy Salon floor.

THE AVEDA ACADEMY SALON • Open to the public, the Academy Salon on the ground floor provides advanced training for new hairstylists and colour technicians interested in accelerating their skills and abilities. The academy salon will also house the retail sales area.

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THE AVEDA ADVANCED ACADEMY • The Advanced Academy offers specialized training courses for industry professionals on the main level. Another unique feature will be plasma TV screens throughout the facility for camera use while conducting training sessions.

WHERE: The Aveda Institute, Toronto 125 King Street East INFO:

800.363.0830 or www.aveda-institutetoronto.com

PHOTO COURTESY COLLEGA FOR AVEDA

FACILITIES

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FEATURE

L’Oréal Professionnel Academy Hip House

education environments,” says Ford.

At the L’Oréal Professionnel Academy, stylists can develop a whole range of exciting new services to offer their clientele. Those wanting to master blondes can try a one-day Made to Measure Blondes course, or to hone the new trends in cutting and colour, try the Creative Cut and Colour two-day program. Check out one of the Colour Collection evenings for an inspiring look at colour and fashion trends of the season.

For those who want to create a total makeover service, there’s a three-day program called Top Makeover where students will work with a makeup artist, clothing stylist and photographer. And for salon owners, a wealth of courses are available to help develop every aspect of a business. Hellen Ward, managing director of the awardwinning Richard Ward salon, UK, offers great advice on the Best Way to Run Your Salon, and Nergish Wadia-Austin, business educator for some of the biggest names in UK hairdressing, including the Toni & Guy franchises, packs her worldwide salon and retail management experience into a seminar with outstanding results.

FACILITIES THE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL ACADEMY • “The L’Oréal Professionnel Academy, Toronto, offers an exciting new alternative to your traditional academy. Perfect for a younger, fashionable salon crowd who like their education to be as quirky, modern and unconventional as they are, this is a very special place that brings a whole new spirit and approach to education.”—Colin Ford

WHERE:

L’Oréal Professionnel Academy 20 Richmond Street East, Toronto

CAPACITY: 40 students for hands-on training, up to 90 for theory classes SQUARE FOOTAGE: 1,145 square feet, plus an additional 675 square feet in an adjoining boardroom INFO: 800.361.1861 or www.lorealprofessionnel.ca

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PHOTO COURTESY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL CANADA

“A brilliant new L’Oréal Professionnel Academy, bristling with Alist industry celebrities, slap bang in the centre of one of Canada’s most exciting cities? Trust us. You’ll be mad for it,” says Colin Ford, education director for L’Oréal Professionnel Canada.

Ford is excited about the future of education with the opening of L’Oréal Professionnel’s new academy. “Toronto is a city buzzing with energy and new ideas. A city teaming with excellent clubs, some truly world-class art galleries and architecture, as well as great designer shopping,” he says. “With these elements, it’s easy to see why we chose Toronto to launch one of the most hotly anticipated academies in Canadian hairdressing.

“If you like your education with an edge, our Toronto academy is for you. Dedicated to creativity, imagination and style, it’s an educationcentre-cum-art-and-party-scene that’s got industry A-listers from Anna Pacitto Merlo to Heather Wenman ready to get in on the action.”

“In addition to our classic core education, we also have a curriculum of brand new courses speaking the language of a whole new generation, and delivered in one of the world’s most exciting

FEATURE

Matrix Academy New Beginnings

This is the first-ever facility for higher learning for Matrix Canada.

“Historically, Matrix Canada has always had strong partnerships with our distributors to offer educational programs that cater to everyone’s needs in all areas of colour, cut, styling and texture,” says Alain Laroche, director of education and special events for Matrix Canada. “This was done through our distributors’ educational centres across Canada—it was a strength of ours.”

In terms of feedback, Matrix found that people were looking for different types of programs offering an even greater emphasis on learning at different levels. Stylists wanted a higher calibre of education where they could delve deeper, be among their peers and still have an intense learning experience. “We took all this into consideration when designing the physical space and developing the programs for the new academy,” adds Laroche.

“As a hairstylist you make a difference in how a person looks and feels. The Matrix Academy works the human factor into every class. The academy will have the look and feel of a salon environment—a very unique element for an academy. It’s about making a connection with a guide to your career path, based on three levels of expertise in six categories of classes.”

LEVELLING OUT: 1. C.R.A.F.T. – for students and recent graduates This level is designed to boost newly learned skills, artistry and confidence through intensive exploration. (C.R.A.F.T. stands for communication, resources, approach, foundation and technique.)

2. Specialist – for intensive learning while mastering skills Designed to help perfect various technical skills to give added confidence and boost income.

3. Artistic – for expression Courses designed for the advanced artist who is technically strong and confident. At this level, attendees are delving deeper into aspects like trends and how to push barriers and competition work. There are also business courses to kick revenues into high gear and strategically work on ensuring lasting success in the salon industry.

The six categories are colour, cuts and styling, texture, trend design, business building and competitive hairstyling.

THE MATRIX ACADEMY • Perhaps the most unique thing is that Matrix has set up an interactive website. Anyone can go online and browse the course offerings, check out prerequisites for certain courses, pricing, course length and dates and actually book everything online.

WHERE:

Matrix Academy 20 Richmond Street East Toronto, Ontario

CAPACITY: 35 students for hands-on training, 50 for theory classes SQUARE FOOTAGE: 1,009 square feet INFO: www.matrixacademy.ca

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PHOTO COURTESY MATRIX CANADA

FACILITIES

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FEATURE

Redken Exchange The knowledge is already in the room “Because Redken is an urban, trendy company, we draw our energies from hip, trendy, urban centres,” says Terry Ritcey, director of education for Redken Canada. “With this new Exchange, we want people to come from all over Canada and experience who Redken is and what we are about as a company. It’s the nightlife, the vibe of the city, the multiethnicity that help create the ultimate learning experience, to become a Redkenite!”

If you’ve ever been to a Redken event, you know that it’s all about the experience. “Everything at the Exchange is learner-focused; it’s all about the needs of the learner. All of our education is based on principles; when you understand why you do things a certain way, the how becomes easier,” adds Ritcey.

“The whole approach is to draw the information out of our participants. We don’t give the answers. We believe that the knowledge is already in the room. All the participants connect with each other and the Exchange brings out the answer.”

Ritcey boasts that Redken is committed to helping salon professionals with wealth-building. He poses the question, “Do you have a business that’s a salon or a salon that’s a business?” The Exchange is about teaching strategies to communicate better, especially around money issues. “People are not comfortable talking about money. This is especially true of younger and entry-level people.” Redken education concentrates on helping a stylist talk openly and confidently about money with clients. “Even in a colour class you will learn the business aspects of dealing with money around colour, and not just colouring techniques—to become more strongly focused business-people as well as creative artists.

“Through education, Redken’s mission is to help people learn better to earn better to ultimately live better lives. Stylists should feel proud and place a high value on what they do for their clients.” S

FACILITIES

• Everything is linked through an array of programs ranging from colour, design, business and personal development to wealth building. After spending three days at the Exchange, students should be able to go home and put the lessons learned into action to increase their revenues.

WHERE: Redken Exchange 20 Richmond Street East, Toronto CAPACITY: 40 students for hands-on training, up to 90 for theory classes SQUARE FOOTAGE: 1,185 square feet, plus an additional 675 square feet in an adjoining boardroom INFO: 866.9.REDKEN or your Redken distributor

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PHOTOS COURTESY REDKEN CANADA

REDKEN EXCHANGE

ESTHETICS

Top-quality training in esthetics

“E

by Colette Wright

STHETICS IS ONE OF THE FASTEST FASTEST-GROWING Industries in North America,” says Inge Hatheway, president and CEO of the European Institute of Esthetics in Edmonton, Alta. “But while this creates more job opportunities for future estheticians, the consumer has also become much more discriminating, demanding an unprecedented level of technical skills and professionalism.”

Christina Ramirez, director of Gina’s College of Advanced Aesthetics, with campuses in Waterloo, Mississauga and Ottawa, Ont., agrees and adds that employers are demanding ing the best people to work in new spas and beauty clinics that are on the rise. “Your success depends mostly on the training you will receive. This is a hands-on technical trade that requires competence in many areas, with the ability to perform all services professionally and correctly as soon as you graduate, without any further apprenticing apprenticing.”

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HAIR AND MAKEUP SHANNON SHEPPARD PHOTO BABAK

SCHOOLS of the TRADE

ESTHETICS

The European Institute of Esthetics

Gina’s College of Advanced Aesthetics The EIE, which uses only the latest equiptment and exceptionally high-quality products, including LCN, is rated as a five-star facility. General manager Annette Wilcockson says students get more than just 1,200 hours of theory and practical training during the eight-and-a-halfhalf month full-time esthetics halfcourse. “What makes our graduates the cream of the crop is our business training. Running a successful business is just as important as being wellversed in esthetics.”

In January, May and September, 30 students are accepted into the program, and tuition covers all supplies including uniforms, tools, equipment and products. The curriculum covers what every esthetician needs to know know, from head to toe, including marketing, advertising and retail classes. After students spend the required time fine-tuning their skills on one another, they get the chance to work at the on-site full-service spa. Instructors supervise them to ensure the public receives optimum treatments. Another important element is that the institute allows estheticians to get a glimpse of the real world. “Job shadowing is part of the training experience, and job placement assistance through a Canada-wide network is provided upon graduation,” says Wilcockson. www.europeaninstituteofesthetics.com

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Top of the Class

With over 20 years of experience and integrity and the successful graduation of thousands of students, Gina’s Colleges is also at the forefront of today’s research and technology technology. Christina Ramirez says, “Our program is constantly being updated and adjusted in order to meet these changes and current market trends.”

The full-time esthetic course runs eight months, with classes starting four times a year. Waterloo accepts 50 students each semester semester, while Mississauga enrolls 30 and Ottawa 20. Tuition includes a complete package of European products, tools and textbooks. Fifty per cent of the curriculum is devoted to practical application of classroom theory theory, but students gain hands-on experience under the instructor’s supervision as they work on the public in the school’s apprenticeship clinic. Ramirez says that because estheticians are recognized as professionals in health and beauty beauty, there is now more emphasis on the holistic health aspect and paramedical relationship. “Our graduates today are required to be more knowledgeable than ever before, and we are able to provide them with the skills and maturity to become very successful.” www.ginascollege.com S

PHOTOS (LEFT COLUMN) COURTESY THE EUROPEAN INSTITUTE OF ESTHETICS (RIGHT COLUMN) COURTESY GINA'S COLLEGE OF ADVANCED AESTHETICS

A career with a European E edge

BODY BASICS

Sensitive Clients

NATURAL INGREDIENTS. FEW WORDS GENERATE MORE BUZZ in the world of skin care. However, these two seemingly harmless words aren’t just difficult to define; they can also be a cause for concern. Although a wide range of natural ingredients are chock full of moisture, antioxidants and other healing properties, many plant-based or -derived products may cause allergic responses, irritation and skin sensitivities.

Maria Papoulidis, director of esthetics at Avola College, explains that allergies are common among salon and spa clients. “Hypersensitivity is a serious issue—just think about the severity of nut allergies. This is why it’s important to know your client’s medical history before you use or recommend a product.”

Once you know your client’s medical history, it really becomes a question of product knowledge.

“It comes down to your knowledge of cosmetic chemistry and your ability to analyze ingredient lists. Then you just put two and two together. For example, if your client is allergic to ragweed, you know that he or she will have to stay away from herbal products containing chamomile.”

Papoulidis recommends brushing up on your ingredient analysis skills by referring to a cosmetic chemistry text or manual. Invest in one and keep it handy at your salon or spa for reference.—MA

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PHOTO CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Cosmetic ingredients may cause allergic reactions

Intercosmetics L E A D E R S I N E S T H E T I C & S PA S U P P L I E S

NAILS PROBLEM: Lifting around the cuticle CAUSE:

CAUSE:

CAUSE:

CAUSE:

Flooding

Natural oils not fully removed from the nail plate

Nail’s natural shine not fully removed

Nail was not fully encased

SOLUTION:

SOLUTION:

SOLUTION:

After removing the shine from most of the nail plate, hold your file like a pencil and use its round edge to remove the shine closer to the cuticle.

You may also use a cone bit with your electric file to get right into the corners of the cuticle.

Be sure to put gel all the way down to the nail groove without flooding. If the nail is not fully encased, the nail underneath will bend, making the gel lift.

SOLUTION: Wipe a thin layer of gel from groove to groove. Apply a larger amount into the middle area of the nail. Manipulate the gel to the back and sides of the nail without touching the sidewalls, using light pressure. Gravity will pull the gel close to the cuticle and sidewalls.

PROBLEM: Lifting on the free edge CAUSE: Dehydration

SOLUTION: In dryer climates, nails will shrink away from gel enhancement products, pull on the gel and then curl. Retail your clients a goodquality cuticle oil and instruct them to apply it under the free edge at least twice a day.

CAUSE: Free edge not sealed

SOLUTION: When glossing, be sure to wipe gloss over the very tip of the nail.

Murphy’s Law

by Rheanne Thackeray and Leanne Lake

PROBLEM: Gloss top is shrinking or pitting CAUSE: Oil or moisture not fully removed from the nail plate

SOLUTION: Before glossing, clean nail with alcohol-based spray and wipe with a clean towel or nail wipe.

What to do with a gel enhancement gone wrong Salon Magazine asked 2006 Contessa nail enhancement artist of the year Rheanne Thackeray and fellow nail pro Leanne Lake to do a little problem-solving. Brainstorming on the most common problems they face when working with gel enhancements, these two nail tech wizards from Kenneth Blair Salon & Spa in Lloydminster, Alta., also provided us with smart, straightforward solutions.

CAUSE: Nail bed is too smooth

SOLUTION: Gel will not adhere to an extremely smooth nail. Be sure to buff the nail with no more than a 180 grit file.

PROBLEM:

PROBLEM:

Stress cracks

Lopsided thumb CAUSE:

CAUSE:

Improper use of UV lamps

Gloss top is applied too thinly

CAUSE:

CAUSE:

Use of poor-quality cuticle oils and moisturizers

Stress area built too thin

SOLUTION:

SOLUTION:

SOLUTION:

SOLUTION:

Build the body of the nail in two layers. Begin by applying gel heavily to the stress area with light pressure. Apply a layer of gel to the entire nail, filling in the remainder of the nail plate from groove to groove and leaving a natural taper to the nail.

Because the thumb lies sideways when a hand rests flat, a self-levelling gel will run down the side of the thumb if an entire hand is placed under a UV lamp.

Cure thumbs separately in order to ensure they lie flat.

Apply a thin layer of gel onto nail. Before curing, examine nail for any pits or bald spots.

If there are any, apply a slightly heavier coat over that area and let the gel self-level for a few seconds until the surface is smooth.

Products containing mineral oil or petroleum will break down the bond between your gel enhancement and the natural nail. Use and retail mineral-oil-free and petroleum-free products.

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Be sure to remove all oils and dust from the nail plate. Clean the nail plate with an alcoholbased nail prep spray and wipe with a clean towel or nail wipe.

salon > april 06

A Gel for Every Nail Style Choose the Star Nail gel system that fits your clients lifestyle MARCH - APRIL ‘06 PROMOTIONS active:

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natural:

Kapping Gel The Calcium fortified UV Gel system specifically designed to help nails reach a desired length...naturally.

versatile:

Acrygel Combines the strength of Acrylic with the flexibility of Gel for a superior nail enhancement.

fashionable:

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#057-promo salon: $59.95 value: $99.80

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HAIR GEORGE TSINOKAS COLOUR NICOLE PRENTICE MAKEUP GIANCARLO INTINI PHOTO BABAK CONTESSA 17

TEAM PLAYER

Salon teams should include nail techs too!

nder heavy (and we mean heavy) scrutiny, we think there’s one element missing from several winning Contessa images: embellished nails. And since we’re sure everyone at your salon is busy planning their Contessa 18 entries, we want to remind you to jump right in and get involved with your colleagues.

This year, partner up with hairstylists, colourists and makeup artists, share your ideas and take part in a salon team photo shoot. Makeup artists always collaborate with hairstylists and use the same models for their own Contessa entries, so why can’t you?

There will obviously be important things for you keep in mind once you decide to join your salon team. First of all, you need to remember that close-up before-and-after shots of the model’s nails need to be taken. Also, be sure your work meets the requirements for the nail category you wish to enter—whether it’s nail enhancement artist, nail art technician or both. Check the official Contessa 18 entry forms for more details.—MA

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Naturally Advanced Tanning Pamper your guests with the newest innovation in sunless tanning. With an unmatched level of accuracy, the Australian Gold® Laser Spraytans™ System

Laser Guided™ Technology

The Laser Guided™ gun precisely targets the area you are spraying while simultaneously ensuring that the optimal distance from the body is accurately maintained. The laser assures even application with the least amount of overspray.

provides a foolproof tan that will leave the skin glowing and sun-kissed from head to toe.

Drip-Free Solution

Our drip-proof solution is unlike any other DHA solution on the market. The organic, aloe-based solution increases the skin’s natural moisture level and allows the DHA to rapidly absorb into the skin to ensure deep, even colour, without any runs or dripping.

Three Stage Turbine System “Will I get my rebates?”

Ask your Authorized Distributor or call Uvalux BEFORE you buy: 1-800-661-6292

Cash Back* and Free Advertising Allowance* only available from Uvalux Authorized Distributors.

The Patented G2 turbine uses low (1-2psi) pressure and warm air to gently apply the solution. The computer designed airflow consistently applies solution accurately and comfortably to your clients while virtually eliminating overspray for a cleaner and healthier work environment.

E R O EA

Visit our showroom: 1-800-661-6292 • www.uvalux.com • sales@uvalux.com • Toronto 905-881-9046 Montreal 877-660-6292 • Calgary 403-274-1532 • Vancouver 604-240-3516 • Woodstock Support Centre 519-421-1212 *some conditions and limits apply. Limited time offer.

Uvalux International Inc.

M T ? B RE N E !

A W ASH MI NT292

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NAILS PRESS PASS

THE NEW FACE

Hand treatments play a role in the anti-aging market by Morella Aguirre

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HEN IT COMES TO AGE, 60 is the new 40. When it comes to fashion, black is the new black.

A three-hour movie is the new two-hour movie. And in terms of anti-aging, hands are the new faces.

Today, salon and spa clients are not only concerned about premature aging of their faces. They want the skin on their hands to appear plump and youthful as well—not always an easy task considering how susceptible hands are to environmental damage. Remember the saying “Nothing shows your age like your hands”?

Chantel Simmons, editor-in-chief of the anti-aging magazine Elevate, recommends treating your client’s hands with functional products containing k ey ingredients. Here are a few suggestions:

Manicure by OPI Rejuvenating Serum Key ingredient: Licorice extract Function: Diminishes age spots.

SCRUBS, SOAKS AND PEELS Keyano Aromatics Pomegranate Scrub Key ingredients: Dead Sea salts, glycerin, jojoba oil and avocado oil, pomegranate extract Function: Dead Sea salts exfoliate; glycerin, jojoba oil and avocado oil moisturize; pomegranate extract rejuvenates aging skin.

Cuccio Naturalé Tuscan Citrus Herb Hand and Body Sea Salts Key ingredient: Sea salts, bergamot and clary sage Function: Salts exfoliate; bergamot and clary sage have anti-inflammatory properties.

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LCN Aroma Effects Peeling Scrub Key ingredient: Dead Sea salts, almond, jojoba and soy oils, honeydew melon extract Function: Salts exfoliate; oils nourish and moisturize; honeydew extract adds aromatherapeutic value.

CREAMS Aveda Hand Relief Key ingredients: Glycerin and andiroba oil, lactic acid, licorice extract, vitamins A and E Function: Glycerin and andiroba oil moisturize; lactic acid smooths rough spots, lines and wrinkles; licorice extract brightens age spots; vitamins A and E protect against environmental damage.

Nail Depot Collagen Cream Key ingredient: Collagen Function: Promotes skin elasticity and plumpness.

Manicure by OPI Finishing Butter Key ingredient: SPF 15 Function: Protects against UV damage.

NAILS LEEANNE COLLEY PHOTO CLARENCE MELVILLE CONTESSA 16

SERUMS AND OILS Cuccio Naturalé Grapeseed Anti-Oxidant Oil Key ingredient: Grapeseed oil Function: Containing a powerful concentration of vitamin E alpha, grapeseed oil rejuvenates sundamaged skin. Its slight astringency helps tighten and tone skin.

TANNING

Impact turns Supre celebrates with new packaging

Sun care Australian Gold introduces skin care for tanners

LEAVE IT TO AUSTRALIAN GOLD to think of everything, including most recently a skin care line specific to their clientele. What started as a hobby and personal interest for Dr. Keith, a reconstructive plastic surgeon, turned into a business venture and partnership with the major American tanning company to develop a cosmetics line specifically designed for tanners.

“Australian Gold is being very progressive and pro-active in their thinking,” says Dr. Keith. “Instead of avoiding the changes that happen to the skin with tanning, like premature aging and dry skin, they are tackling them head-on.”

The new Australian Gold cosmetic line includes four products, each designed to counteract the effects of the sun.

CelluTen is formulated with 10 anti-aging, skin hydrating, nourishing vitamins and minerals, offering maximum revitalization in a unique anti-aging blend; vitamins A, B1, B6, C, D, E, F, K, beta carotene and essential fatty acids create a repair complex to hydrate and firm, allowing maximum revitalization of collagen and skin elasticity.

Weightless, colourless and odourless, the Hyaluronic Serum is the ultimate natural moisturizer, with lubricating and woundhealing properties.

Advanced Plus Eye Therapy Cream minimizes the loss of collagen and elastin around the eyes, helping prevent the effects of aging and fine lines. It improves the appearance of the eye by helping to remove dark circles.

Renovatox is a hexapeptide skin care therapy with a blend of six amino acids that bond together to form a fine line and wrinkle-reducing blend. A unique topical alternative to Botox injections, it assists in preventing the appearance of fine lines while maintaining natural facial movement and expression.

In a unique metallic gold packaging, the line is set to welcome two more products, if not more, in the fall. It is sold exclusively to tanning salons. Contact your Uvalux representative for more information.—TC

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SUPRE PRODUCT PHOTOS COURTESY SUPRE CANDLE PHOTO AND AUSTRALIAN GOLD PRODUCTS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

SUPRE’S POPULAR IMPACT BRAND has received a colourful new look to celebrate its 10th anniversary.

The 10 oz. bold and graphic pouch allows full use of the product with no excess left in the packaging. The brand also welcomes a new member to its product family. Supre has introduced an incredibly strong dual bronzer to the Impact line, utilizing black walnut shell extract to increase darkening, smooth out the colour and prolong the tan.

“Impact has continued to be one of our strongest brands since its introduction 10 years ago,” says John Alexander, vice-president, Supre. “We truly believe this update is the perfect anniversary gift for our Impact brand.”—TC

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF TIGI (MODEL), PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANTHONY MASCOLO/ROBERTO AGUILAR, HAIR: ANTHONY MASCOLO/NICK IRWIN, MAKE-UP: PAT MASCOLO; ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY CREATIVE NAIL (NAILS); THOM LANG (POWDER)

Miles of Exhibits Products from Five Continents Free Career-Enhancing Classes Free Mainstage Presentations In the Beauty Capital of the World

CREATIVITY RECHARGED

APRIL 30 - MAY 2

Jacob Javits Center | New York City

PRESENTED BY

The International Beauty Show

REGISTER TODAY

Save $10 a Day When You Register Online at WWW.IBSnewyork.COM For More Information 800-427-2420

PROFILE

When business is

PLEASURE

Suzanne Martin scores by mixing craft with commerce

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With high hopes and a handy mix of commerce and styling acumen, Martin launched Three Small Rooms in 1988. “I had my own little spot and I hired two other hairstylists and we each had our own space.” The business gradually bloomed in square-footage and stature.

Describing herself as a “hair show junkie” (she is a formally trained, lifelong judge with the Canadian Judges Panel) Martin today cites continuing education as key to staying abreast of trends. “I’m the first one there when the doors open and the last one out at night,” she offers of her hair show attendance record.

Martin says it’s also crucial that stylists stay in touch with hairstyling schools, both to monitor curriculum and scout emerging talent. And though fiercely creative, Martin admits she doesn’t do as much session work as she’d like, owing to a full roster of clients at her owner-operated salon. “But I do some, including a half-time show at Hairapalooza. I’m working on that right now.”

Both Martin’s kids have followed in her footsteps: son Blake is a stylist in Hamilton, and daughter Miranda, also a stylist, serves as creative director for Three Small Rooms, a Goldwell Colour salon. (Martin once worked as a Goldwell colour technician).

But more than anything, Mar tin credits her faith (“I’m a born-again Christian,” she cracks, “Your basic hallelujah type”) as the wellspring of her success. “It is the umbrella over my life,” Martin says. “It’s a gift.” S

THIS PAGE: (L-R) HAIR SUZANNE MARTIN MAKEUP MIRANDA FOX PHOTO LINDSEY DRENNAN; MARTIN BY BABAK OPPOSITE PAGE: HAIR SUZANNE MARTIN MAKEUP GIANCARLO INTINI PHOTO BABAK

i

n hairstyling as in life, it’s rare to find someone driven equally by their artistic “right brain” sensibility and their more business-y “left brain” impulses. Typically, you’re either the grand visionary guided by ethereal inspiration or you’re sternly tallying the GST. Suzanne Martin, proprietor of Three Small Rooms in Barrie, Ont., and master stylist is both. Ask her about her business and she’ll fluidly grocery-list the hurdles to profitability: price point, employee attrition, pesky building-code regulations.

Ask Martin about her vanguard colour and cutting techniques, the kind that snagged her a 2006 Contessa win for elite master hairstylist of the year, and she’ll excitedly chronicle her passion for grassroots European trends and style magazines of all stripes while detailing her flip-chart technique for developing new hair concepts—visible both at the competitive level and at the local mall.

Martin is nothing if not versatile and gutsy. As she explains on the heels of an all-nighter spent painting her 5,000-square-foot salon as part of a larger renovation, while hair had always been an abiding love, she initially toiled at the Bank of Montreal after graduating from college with a business administration degree.

As a single mother of two with a heap of student loans, it seemed the reasonable thing to do. “But I hated that job,” Martin laughs, adding that she was already styling part-time. “Going into hairstyling after being a branch manager seemed a backward step. But I knew it was time for a change when clients would come into the bank to talk about their RRSPs and I’d find myself more interested in their hair and nails.

“One day I was fishing with my brother and complaining about the bank and crying. He said, ‘Then quit and be a stylist.’ I said, ‘I can’t. I have a mortgage.

How can I support my kids?’ And he said, ‘Well, be the best stylist.’ It went from there.”

By Kim Hughes

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INTERIORS

Unlocking Success

Winnipeg’s Vault Salon and Spa

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by Colette Wright

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NAME

Vault Salon & Spa

ADDRESS

100-52 Albert Street, Winnipeg, MB, Canada

OWNER

Daren Jorgenson, since 2003

SIZE

6,800 square feet

NUMBER OF STAFF

44

BREAKDOWN

11 cutting/12 colour stations; 4 Murano pedicure chairs; 3 manicure chairs; 4 spa treatment rooms.

INTERIOR DESIGNER

Daren Jorgenson

RETAIL HAIR

Redken; Paul Mitchell; Farouk; Nioxin; Rusk; L’Anza; Sexy; Diva Curls

RETAIL SPA

Dermalogica; Trucco; OPI

PHONE

204.957.1100

HOURS OF OPERATION

Monday to Saturday 7am to 10pm, Sunday 12pm to 6pm

WEB SITE

www.vaultsalonandspa.com

PHOTOS RHELLO YOROBE

hat was once a bank office built in 1904 is now turning heads—literally!

And with the bank’s safes still intact, the name of the five-storey building seems like the right combination. Vault Salon and Spa is located in the heart of downtown Winnipeg, Man., in what’s referred to as the Exchange District—where artsy meets finance. Its owner, Daren Jorgenson, says sexing up an old structure with high-tech equipment, gorgeous decor and world-class stylists has been a gamble of good fortune. “For a year I would sit for hours in certain areas of the salon thinking and visualizing what I wanted.”

The first floor is the salon. While it has a warehouse feel, its modern touches give it an energetic vibe. There’s even a cappuccino bar to perk up clients. And as the smell of lattes permeates the air, customers are entertained by 19 flat-screen plasma televisions promoting enticing spa treatments available upstairs. Jorgenson, a marketing opportunist, says, “It’s an effective advertising tool.”

The stainless steel colour bar Jorgenson designed helps to maintain a clean look even when stylists are run off their feet. Built into the countertop are hidden bins where colour mixing bowls and brushes are collected for cleaning later. “It prevents the sink from piling up and looking messy,” says Jorgenson. One of his favourite additions is the retail area, which resembles a vault. “The merchandise is showcased beautifully, offering a private area for stylists to consult with clients about the right products for home hair care.”

Head to the second floor and the ambience changes from cool to calm. Warm tones, lush carpet and intricately designed stained glass windows exude serenity.

Along with four treatment rooms, a Vichy shower wet room features a leaf-shaped, hydro wood bed from New Zealand. There is also a eucalyptus sauna, a dry heat sauna and a steam room. “Our clients choose the type of music they listen to in the room. We make them feel relaxed even before the service starts,” adds Jorgenson. Between treatments, the spa provides not only a co-ed lounge but also a lounge for women only.

Jorgenson plans to make the remaining three floors into a 39,000 square-foot beauty and wellness centre over the next 10 years—including a hair and esthetics school. S

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HOT PRODUCTS

HOTPICKS

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by Sarah Higgins

2 5 1

IT’S EARTH MONTH Aveda invites you to fill your senses with the aroma of rose, geranium, lavender and peppermint as you enjoy Light the Way, a limited-edition candle available in April in celebration of Earth Month.

This invigorating and symbolic product is made from 100 per cent organic ingredients.

Aveda suggests recycling your candleholder into a planter once it’s completed. For more info visit www.aveda.com

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HAND PAINTING The IGORA Action Paint line

by Schwarzkopf introduces a new colour to the family: Violet Crush. This radical form of semi-permanent hair colour can be changed according to your client’s mood. The shade can be modified to a light and airy violet or boosted up to a bold and brilliant pure violet. Retail the take-home tubes and let your clients do touchups on their own.

For more info visit www. schwarzkopf-professional.com

SOOTHING SENSATION René Furterer introduces Astera, a rebalancing and refreshing no-rinse soothing serum for irritated scalps. The serum’s secret is its unique combination of cold essential mint and eucalyptus oils and extract of Asteracea—a flower from the daisy and sunflower family. Immediately soothes the scalp and gives a sensation of freshness. For more info visit www.renefurterer.com

HEAT THINGS UP Nowadays, who doesn’t use a blow-dryer or straightening iron on their clients? For that reason, a line like Thermafuse is a real no-brainer. Leaders in heat protection, Thermafuse products all contain the line’s advanced HeatSmart Complex, a heat-activated, naturally derived nourishing and protective composite.

The line ranges from shampoo and conditioner to versatile finishing products. For more info visit www.thermafuse.com

TERRIFIC TOOTSIES What do feet by OPI look like? Well, they are healthy, moisturized, callus-free and well protected. So, in order to offer your clients feet by OPI, get Feet by OPI, a new foot care line designed for both men and women. It’s complete with all the tools and products you’ll need—from a callus file and protective powder to a super-hydrating moisturizer and a therapeutic nail strengthener. For more info visit www.opi.com

PHOTOS MICHAEL GRAYDON

3

Purchase Aqua Leaves in 3 spa inspired scents salon: $15.95 per box of six

Enhancing the Scentual Spa Experience Cuccio Naturale — in Canada 800.661.9997 780.465.2131

HOT PRODUCTS

8 10 6 9

7

REDKEN BLONDE GLAM Redken’s new Blonde Glam line was developed strictly for multi-tonal blonde hair. Targeting challenges specific to blonde hair, it leaves each strand of hair stronger, brighter and visibly rejuvenated. The line consists of a shampoo, a conditioner, a shine enhancer and two types of colour-activating treatments—one for warm blondes and one for pale blondes. For more info visit www.redken.ca

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TOWEL SERVICE Individually wrapped and ammonia-free, Natrique’s new skin cleansing towels give you another option for removing unwanted colour stains from your client’s skin.

It’s ideal for use on all types of hair colour stains; simply rub a towel where staining is visible and discard after use.

Now you won’t have to clean up after the cleanup. For more info visit www.natrique.com

SPRAY PLAY Part of the Matrix Color. smart Protective Luminating System, the new gloss & guard hairspray is designed to meet the needs of coloured hair. Its fast-drying, shine-intense formula provides flexible hold as it protects your client’s colour through a special blend of antioxidants and UV filters.

Silicone and citrus extracts account for the spray’s incredible gloss. For more info visit www.matrix.com

MOP IT UP Hairspray is in its glory days, and with the introduction of c-system firm finish strong hold hair spray from Mop, there’s no better way to celebrate. An ecofriendly aerosol spray with zero environmental impact provides your clients with maximum hold and plenty of movement. Don’t let the hairspray’s fresh citrus scent fool you—those extracts are as functional as they are pretty. For more info visit www.mopproducts.com

SCENTED ORA Looking for a way to spice up your retail section?

Introduce your clients to an invigorating new scent from Farouk Systems. Miss CHI is a fresh blend of fruits and spices, a powerful and captivating fragrance customblended with the modern woman in mind. Fiery, sporty and exhilarating, Miss Chi radiates allure. For more info visit www.farouk.com S

Dare to Dream!

“Will I get my rebates?”

Ask your Authorized Distributor or call Uvalux BEFORE you buy 1-800 661 6292 Cash Back* and Free Advertising Allowance* only available from Uvalux Authorized Distributors.

E R O EA

Visit our showroom: 1-800-661-6292 • www.uvalux.com • sales@uvalux.com • Toronto 905-881-9046 Montreal 877-660-6292 • Calgary 403-274-1532 • Vancouver 604-240-3516 • Woodstock Support Centre 519-421-1212 *some conditions and limits apply. Limited time offer.

Uvalux International Inc.

M T ? B RE N E !

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EVENTS

APRIL 2006 INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS, April 2—3, Arlington Convention Center, Dallas TX Info: www.lneonline.com

INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS, May 20—22 Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami FL. Info: www.lneonline.com

CARNIVAL OF BEAUTY 40TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION April 8—9, World Trade and Convention Centre, Halifax NS Info: 800.565.7721 www.maritimebeauty.com

AVOLA COLLEGE’S 12TH ANNUAL AMORE SHOW, May 28 Revival, 783 College St., Toronto ON Info: 416.967.1800

PREMIERE BIRMINGHAM 2006 April 9—10, Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center, Birmingham AL Info: www.premiereshows.com ABA TORONTO April 9—10, Metro Toronto Convention Centre (South Building), Toronto ON. Info: 905.568.0158 www.abacanada.com ABA WINNIPEG April 30—May 1, Winnipeg Convention Centre, Winnipeg MB. Info: 905.568.0158 www.abacanada.com INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW April 30—May 2, Jacob Javits Center New York City NY. Info: www.ibsnewyork.com AMERICAN SPA EXPO April 30—May 2, Jacob Javits Center, New York City NY.

COMING UP MILANO SYSTEMS ANNUAL SEMINAR May 7—8, Greater Toronto Area, Sheraton Parkway Hotel (Richmond Hill) ON; Info: 800.667.1596 ABA EDMONTON May 7—8, Edmonton Northlands Park, Edmonton AB. Info: 905.568.0158 www.abacanada.com

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HAIR CLASSES URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS PRESENTS: Educational Programs for Euronaturals Hair Extensions.

In-salon classes also available.

Info: 866.731.4327 SCHWARZKOPF PRESENTS: Fit For Highlighting, April 3 Winnipeg MB; Info: 204.774.6685 Fit For Highlighting, April 3 Kelowna BC; Info: 250.860.5584 Colour Placement Techniques, April 10 Calgary AB; Info: 403.259.4442 The Law of Colour, April 10 Saskatoon SK; Info: 306.227.4357 Fit For Highlighting, April 10 Brandon SK; Info: 204.774.6685 Corrective Colour, April 11 Vancouver BC; Info: 604.871.0222 The Law of Colour April 17, Mississauga ON Break the Rules April 24, Mississauga ON Colour Placement Techniques, April 24, Mississauga ON Info: 800.463.3081 Corrective Colour April 24, Mississauga ON Info: 905.624.0470 Evolution of Colour, April 24—25, Vancouver BC; Info: 604.251.7386 GREAT LENGTHS PRESENTS: Regional Training Seminar April 23—24, Toronto ON Info: 800.461.9302 L’ORÉAL PRESENTS: Keys To Colour April 17—19 Toronto ON; Info: 800.361.1861

Tress It Up April 3, Calgary AB April 24, Edmonton AB Info: 800.642.3818 Colour Change April 24—25, Toronto ON April 10—11, Vancouver BC Info: 800.361.1861 Colour On Colour, April 24 Victoria BC; Info: 800.361.1861 Creative Cut and Colour April 2—3 and 9—10, Calgary AB Info: 800.642.3818 April 23—24, Saskatoon SK Info: 800.642.3818 April 24—25, North Bay ON Info: 800.361.1861 GOLDWELL PRESENTS: Textural Cutting Techniques and Trends, April 3 Toronto ON Info: 877.670.6767 Colour Masters April 23—25, Toronto ON Info: 877.670.6767 Trilogy April 3—4, Vancouver BC Info: 800.663.9222 Elumen, Un-Edited April 3—4, Vancouver BC Info: 800.663.9222 Core Stylist Training April 10—11, Vancouver BC Info: 800.663.9222 KMS CALIFORNIA PRESENTS: Men’s Foundations, April 2—3 Toronto ON; Info: 877.670.6767 REDKEN PRESENTS: Advanced Colour Placement & Techniques, April 3, Kelowna BC Advanced Colour Placement & Techniques, April 3, Edmonton AB Advanced Colour Placement & Techniques, April 24, St. John NB Do It Up!, April 10, Vancouver BC Cut & Know Why! April 23—24, Calgary AB Trends ’06—OutRage April 24, Edmunston NB Trends ’06—OutRage April 10, Halifax NS

Colour Magic April 23—24, Winnipeg MB For info contact your local Redken distributor

NAIL CLASSES STAR NAIL PRESENTS: Ongoing Educational Programs location TBA; Info: 800.661.9997 CREA CREATIVE NAIL PRESENTS: Brisa Gel Class, April 3, Kitchener ON Info: 905.817.2200 LCN PRESENTS: Manicure and Pedicure Spa Cocktails April 4, Edmonton AB Manicure Class April 5, 18 and 19, Edmonton AB Level I Artificial Nails April 11, 12, 24, 25 and 27, Edmonton AB Advanced Pedicure Class April 11 and 12, Edmonton AB Light-Cured Nail Art Workshop April 13, Edmonton AB Level II Nail Sculpting April 26, Edmonton AB Sanitation and Hygiene in Your Salon April 26, Edmonton AB Info: 888.422.6677

ESTHETICS CLASSES LCN PRESENTS: Professional Makeup, April 3 and 4, Edmonton AB PermaLash, April 6, Edmonton AB Permanent Makeup April 6, 18, 19, 20, 21 and 27 Edmonton AB Waxing/Tinting Class April 19 and 20, Edmonton AB Info: 888.422.6677 Fax all your May/June listings by April 27, 2006. Please note: due to space limitations we cannot list all events. Questions? Call 416.869.3131 ext 105 or e-mail editorial@beautynet.com S

Laser Rental Services • Hair Removal • Acne • Vascular Lesions & Pigmented Lesions before

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Hair Removal

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Vascular Lesions

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• Skin Rejuvenati Rejuvenation

visit us at www.laserrentals.com or call 1-888-LASER(52737)-11

Make your dreams become a reality today

april 06 < salon

97

SCOOP

Goldwell Color Glow mousses have recently landed some great editorial coverage in a couple of our favourite consumer mags. InStyle and Elle Canada have both given the mousses fabulous plugs.

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salon > april 06

True Hair Extensions wants to see you ride in style. Here’s the skinny on its exciting Hummer promotion: reach your target in True Hair Extension sales and your salon will be supplied with a Hummer for a 12-month period. Visit www.truehairext.com.

SPORTING WITH THE STARS John Paul Mitchell systems was presenting sponsor of a star-studded sport-themed charity event held at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise Sports Invitational. Alec Baldwin, Martin Sheen and Marcia Gay Harden were among those in attendance. Profits went to the Robert F. Kennedy Jr. Waterkeeper Alliance, a non-profit organization whose mission is to protect rivers, bays, lakes and streams throughout North and Central America.

GOLDWELL PHOTO CHRIS TSINZIRAS

In the Press

Y A W EA V I G ER M M HU

CELEBRITY WATCH

HAPPY BIRTHDAY

CAN-RAD EXPANDS Can-Rad has recently expanded, adding 5,000 additional square feet of office space, doubling its educational space to 2,000 square feet and and opening an extra 8,000 square feet of warehouse space. Can-Rad now operates 11 wholesale-only stores in Manitoba and Ontario. New distribution partners for Can-Rad are Uans International, i-Lash Perming and Tinting System and Vern Intelligent Combined Scissor Collection. Can-Rad has also introduced Silk Software, a system that allows salon consultants to communicate with head office via live wireless Internet.

The Source Brian Ahrens, general manager of KPSS Canada (far right), stands with Glamour Sources’ Jane Shapland, Greg Keating and Michael Stewart Glamour Sources Limited has recently been appointed the new distributor for Goldwell and KMS California products in Atlantic Canada. The second largest distributor in Atlantic Canada, Glamour Sources also carries Joico, Quantum, ISO, Essie and more. Check out www.glamoursources.com.

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Maritime Beauty Supply is celebrating its 40th anniversary with a big birthday bash—the Carnival of Beauty (April 8—9, World Trade & Convention Centre, Halifax, NS). Congratulations from everyone at Salon!

Toronto celebrity hairstylist Marc Anthony coiffed Harrison Ford on a recent press tour in Toronto. The super-star was in Canada promoting the film Firewall.

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PRESS PASS

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REDKEN COVER COMPETITION The second annual Redken cover competition wrapped up with a star-studded event February 19 at the York Theatre in Toronto. Finalists were Kathy Cameron of Scissors Hair Studio in Ottawa, Rhino Gaudet of Licorice for Hair in Victoria, and Marie-Éve Medza of Odyssée 1 in Montreal. The winner this year is Robert Cory of Cabello Hair in Windsor, Ont. Robert is also the 2006 Contessa winner for avant garde hairstylist of the year. Congratulations to everyone!

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1. L-R Javier San Juan, president, L’Oréal Canada, event MC Cheryl Hickey, host of ET Canada, Minter Dial, senior VP, L’Oréal Canada, and Doriane Dalati, VP, Redken Canada 2. Terry Ritcey, director of education, Redken Canada, with cover competition winner Robert Cory.

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LCN CANADA 2006 CONFERENCE

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The LCN Instructors Conference was held in Edmonton, February 10-12. During this annual event instructors were introduced to new products, marketing ideas, application techniques and new educational formats.

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1. Instructors competed for the best manicure and pedicure recipes. The Martini Mamas won first place with their Hot Apple Pie 2a La Mode. L-R: Mary Jane Dekker (S.S.Keddy), Heather Hillis (Beauty Depot), Alyson Atiemo Bampo (LCN Canada), Lisa Mirau (Craze Esthetics), Glenda Martin (S.S.Keddy) and Lyse Saucier (Capliex Charel). 2. The award for highest percentage increase for 2005 went to Beauty Depot Enterprises of Calgary. L-R: Silvia D’Costa of Beauty Depot, Inge Hatheway of LCN Canada, and Vanessa d’Mello of Beauty Depot. 3. Newfoundland’s East Coast Beauty landed the distributor of the year award! L-R: Gail Hart of East Coast Beauty, Inge Hatheway, Tracey Brown and Lori-Ann Petten of East Coast Beauty.

(Gail Hart also won instructor of the year for the second year in a row.)

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OH’HAIR CHICAGO

1. True Hair Extensions’ Chris Popovski closing a

Look who we ran into by spending three days just down the street from O’Hare Airport at the Chicago Midwest Beauty Show in March.

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sale. 2. Salonware’s Blake Rector demonstrating technology benefits. 3. Salon’s Samantha Anobile, BSG’s John Costanza, CIABC’s Norma Ann Eaton, Nioxin’s Will Narynski. 4. Creative Nail Design’s Barbara Fogelman and Jan Arnold with Lydia Sarfati of Repêchage.

5. John Donato with Chicago stylist Jesse Mate after one of his seminars on marketing your salon.

6. Farouk’s Woody Michleb onstage.

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HAIRAPALOOZA

Sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional and CanRad Beauty limited, the ninth annual Hairapalooza was held in Barrie on February 26, with 40 competitors and over 500 people in attendance.

The winners in the unlicensed category were: 1st place April MacDonald, Abstract The Salon; 2nd place Daniel Davis, Three Small Rooms; 3rd place Linda Lamothe, Salon Status.

Licensed category winners: 1st place Charla Green, The Hair Gallery; 2nd place Jennifer Ellis, Salon Status; 3rd place Natalie LaClaire, Three Small Rooms.

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1. All winners with Frank Bruno of Schwarzkopf and Flavio Cerilli of CanRad Beauty Limited.

2. Neva Rozon from David Anthony Salon accepting the Spirit of Professionalism Award on behalf of David Krampp. 3. and 4. Aldo and Sabino Di Tacchio judging the competition.

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BIENVENIDOS A CANADA On February 7, a special reception was held at L’Oréal Canada headquarters in Montreal to welcome Javier San Juan as the new president of L’Oréal Canada. San Juan is originally from Spain.

1. L-R: Hugo Boisvert from Matrix, Star Bedard’s Marie Christine Bourdon, l’Oréal Professionnel’s Michel Valois, Marie Danielle Bourdon from Star Bedard, and Matrix’s Jean-Philippe Thomassin. 2. L-R Laura

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Dunphy, L’Oréal’s Michel St. Charles, Doris Tan of International Beauty Services, L’Oréal Canada’s new president, Javier San Juan, and Shelley Murphy of L’Oréal.

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salon > april 06

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LONG BEACH HUDDLE Salon Magazine’s Laura Dunphy and Samantha Anobile ran into some friends at the recent International Salon and Spa Expo and the Abbies in Long Beach, California.

1. L-R: Famous Contessa photographer Babak, reigning North American hairstylist of the year Marjorie Clarke, and makeup artist Giancarlo Intini. Photo courtesy www.tanyarumak.com. 2. L-R Marlena DuRon, Cheryl and Jim Markham, Prestige Group—founder of Pureology, with Samantha Anobile at the Abbies.

Pureology won the award for best product packaging.

DAVINES WORLD COMPETITION

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salon > april 06

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Alanna Widgiz, of Perugia Salon & Spa in Edmonton placed 3rd in the Davines Worldwide Hair Tour Competition in Florence, Italy in October. Widgiz, one of three North American stylists chosen in an earlier competition, went to Italy courtesy of Edmonton distributor Stogryn Sales Ltd. The competition involved cut and colour.

1. Award presentation. 2. Widgiz in action, with her sister Alecia serving as her model.

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Aveda Save Plants, Save Yourself pg 7 .............800-328-0849 ........................ www.aveda.com BSG pg 71..........................................................800-241-3330 ........................ www.bsgcanada.com BSG Show Deals pg 99......................................800-241-3330 ........................ www.bsgcanada.com Calbrook pg 108 ................................................866-5-CALGEL ...................... www.calbrookcanada.com Collega for Aveda pg 37 ....................................800-689-1066 ........................ www.collega.com Craze pg 100 .....................................................877-325-7773 ........................ www.craze-esthetics.com Creative Nail Design pg 15 ...............................800-833-NAIL ....................... www.creativenaildesign.com Dennis Bernard pg 75 ......................................800-541-5456 ........................ www.dennisbernard.com Derma Pro Skin Care pg 84 ..............................888-343-9555 ........................ www.dermapro.com Dikson pg 59 .....................................................800-334-8240 ........................ www.diksonservice.com Essensa pg 85 ...................................................866-387-0220 ........................ www.essensa.ca Essie Spring 2006 Collection pg 29 ..................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com Friday Imports pg 54 .........................................800-661-8675 ........................ www.fridayimports.com Fudge Membrane Gas pg 23 .............................888-383-4387 ........................ www.fudge.com Goldwell pg 44 ..................................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwellusa.com Goldwell NeutraLights pg 19 ............................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwellusa.com Great Lengths pg 64 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.hscinternational.com

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Hair-Brain.com pg 82 ...................................................................................... www.hair-brain.com

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IBS New York pg 87 ...........................................800-427-2520 ........................ www.questex.com

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IECSC Las Vegas pg 77 .....................................800-624-3248 ........................ www.iecsc.com

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Intercosmetics pg 79 ........................................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca International Beauty Services pg 103 ..............800-642-3818

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ISO i-color pg 116 .............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca

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ISO Nexture pg 21 .............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca

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Joico pg 6-7.......................................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com, www.icehair.com

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Keyano pg 98 .....................................................877-325-7773 ........................ keyano.com

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KMS pg 25 .........................................................800-288-9118 ........................ www.kmshaircare.com L’Anza CP Anti-Aging pg 41 ..............................800-661-1424 ........................ www.keybeautysystems.com Lakme Collage pg 27 ....................................................................................... www.lakme.com Lanvain pg 31 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN pg 51..........................................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca Liquid Luxuries Salon Systems pg 101 ............800-387-2962 ........................ www.torontobeautysupply.com Matrix Academy pg 78 ......................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Trix pg 2-3..............................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Milano Computer Systems Inc. pg 104.............800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com Nail Depot pg 106 .............................................800-668-2256 ........................ www.thenaildepot.net Natrique pg 97 ..................................................866-628-7478 ........................ www.natrique.com Nex Gen pg 102 .................................................888-527-3711 ........................ www.nexgenlasers.com

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Nisim pg 14 .......................................................800-656-4746 ........................ www.nisim.com

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NP Group Ceramic Straight Iron pg 43.............800-267-4247 ........................ www.npgroup.ca

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PureOlogy NanoWorks pg 11 ............................800-331-1502 ........................ www.pureology.com OPI pg 13 ...........................................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Radiancy Laser Rentals pg 97 ..........................888-527-3711 ........................ www.nexgenlasers.com Schwarzkopf Essential Looks pg 8-9 ..............800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Senscience pg 4-5 ............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.zotos.com Star Nail pg 81 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio Naturale pg 93 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Supre Hempz Haircare pg 33............................800-825-7020 ........................ www.hempzhaircare.com Takara Belmont pg 73.......................................800-268-5351 ........................ www.takarabelmont.ca True Concepts pg 69 .........................................877-TRUE-480 ...................... www.truehairext.com Urban Beauty Systems pg 35 ...........................866-731-4327

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Uvalux Australian Gold pg 105 .........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Australian Gold Crystal pg 67 ...............800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Australian Gold SprayTan pg 83 ...........800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Colorology pg 95 ...................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Magic Tan pg 115 ..................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux SS755 & SolarForce pg 114 .................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Wahl Sterling Bravura pg 39 ............................866-787-9245 ........................ www.wahl.com

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april 06 < salon

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PRESS PASS

MEXICAN RETREAT In January, International Beauty Services and L’Oréal Professionnel Canada hosted the 2006 Winter Learning Retreat on the western Mexican Riviera. Stylists from Alberta, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland attended the event. L’Oréal and IBS teams were 0joined by staff from Obsco Beauty Supplies Maritime and O’Reagan Agencies. Hands-on educational seminars were a big part of the week-long event, in a resort setting with beautiful weather and great friends.

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1. Group shot of all participants. 2. L-R Lois Bartz-Rasmussen, Emma Clewes, Alvin Charchuk, Tracey Street, Jan Charchuk, Brandie Matieshin and Irene Moir. 3. Darlene Chapman, Steven and Karen Murphy. 4. Rosalind Satar, Daniel Fiorio, Doris Tan and Colin Ford.

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Marketplace Your guide to products and services for professional salons

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111

THE LAST WORD

ATTITUDE IS EVERYTHING

I

f you’ll pardon the pun, there are no shor tcuts to becoming an excellent hairdresser.

I have always considered hairdressing to be a craft. And as I enter my 47th year of salon work, it’s a craft I still feel fortunate to be involved with. A dictionary definition of craft reads: “A profession or activity that requires skill and training, or experience, or specialized knowledge, often used in combination.” Precisely.

In my opinion, a six-month crash course in what I call cookie-cutter methods isn’t enough to teach the craft of hairdressing. Cookie-cutter Cookie-cutter, the dictionary says, implies seemingly mass-produced, without distinctive features. A course that only teaches five or six different styles, for example, needs to be preceded or followed by an additional six months of salon training, with another half-year of colour training. Now you’re talking.

And as important as excellent cutting and colouring techniques are, I have always been careful to choose people to work with me who also have good communication skills. I hope the assistants I have had the pleasure of working and sharing knowledge with over the years also learned about the importance of customer service and psychology.

Don’t get me wrong. I do believe good schooling can teach certain aspects of our craft. But as well as the mechanics of haircutting and the chemical side of our business, a well-rounded hairdresser needs to learn good people skills. I have seen some great cutters fall flat on their face when it comes to communicating with clients.

Let’s face it, hairdressers can be hard of hearing. If a stylist only halflistens, he or she can’t consider all a client’s needs. Artistic flair is great, but without good communication, even a technically superb haircut will result in an unhappy client.

A friend of mine can attest to this. She highly recommended her hairdresser to her sister for his excellent cutting ability. Unfortunately, the hairdresser didn’t listen when his new client said how happy she was to have finally grown her hair long after wearing it short for years. My friend said the hairdresser did a fantastic cut, but because it was short her sister literally sat in the chair weeping. In a case like this, family members may be forgiven, but the hairdresser? Never.

In part to establish and protect professional ethics and standards, craftspeople in Europe formed guilds (named for the gold deposited in their common funds) back in the Middle Ages. Under guild rules, a young man or the occasional young woman wishing to learn a craft served an apprenticeship under a master for anything from

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three to 11 years. Day work followed the apprenticeship. To actually join the guild and become a master glove maker or whatever, the craftsperson had to demonstrate his or her skill and win the guild’s approval by creating a “masterpiece.”

Now, I’m not suggesting we dive back into the Middle Ages, but it does seem to me that even today European hairdressing schools have stricter standards than their Canadian counterparts. For example, last year I received a letter from a young English lady training to be a hairdresser in London. She mentions studying for her “NVQ” in hairdressing at UK Training and Development (UKTD). It turns out that UKTD is a City and Guilds-approved centre for “modern apprenticeship.” Level one of the nationally recognized National Vocational Qualifications training program takes up to nine months to complete. During that time, a UKTD consultant visits the trainee in the salon at least once a month to discuss and set work and assess his or her competence in the workplace.

Fortunately for those of us living on this side of the pond, L’Oréal is currently constructing a new Academy for Advanced Education in Toronto. I was really impressed recently when I visited the site. I believe the academy’s finely tuned programs and emphasis on professional motivation will serve as a guiding light to us all in Canada.

Speaking of motivation, what struck me most about my young English friend’s letter were her enthusiasm and desire to qualify as a hairdresser, for which she works six days a week. She reminded me of my own beginnings in the craft. Not to toot my own horn, but I set out with a passion for hairdressing. I wanted to learn and work hard and become a great hairdresser. In my book, hairdressing wasn’t about making money as quickly as possible. To borrow the wisdom of an internationally acclaimed master of our craft, Vidal Sassoon: “The only place where success comes before work is a dictionary.”

John Steinberg is the owner of Toronto’s John Steinberg & Associates. He’s currently celebrating 46 years in the beauty business and continues to be one of Canada’s premier style makers. Check out: www.johnsteinberghair.com.

PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

by John Steinberg

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