Salon Magazine, October 2006 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon MAGAZINE

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY AND STYLE

the

Psychology Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 365 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1902 Toronto, Ont., Canada M4W 3L4

Colour

exploring client-colourist relationships

plus Contessa18 semi-finalists

OCTOBER 06 $5 WWW.SALON52.CA

��

l salon MAGAZINE

Contents OCTOBER 06 W W W. S A LO N 5 2 . CA

ON THE COVER Hair: Vivienne Mackinder Makeup: Natasha Morgan Hairpieces: HairUwear Wardrobe: Montgomery Frazier Photography: Jill Wachter

ON THE COVER 49

THE PSYCHOLOGY OF COLOUR

CONTESSA 18 SEMI-FINALISTS

Technique: Since the model had short hair, several blonde (level 9) wefts (hairpieces) were coloured with red and orange INKWORKS from Paul Mitchell. Using fishtail braiding, they were blended into the model’s own hair. Hair was then shredded to loosen the fishtail and pinned into place. Profound styling products were used for hold and finish.

FEATURE Exploring client-colourist relationships

HIGHLIGHTS 16

30 66 68

HAIRLINES Gold Dust Woman - Seven reasons why ISO’s Bronze Goddess collection is truly goddess-worthy p.16; Continental Victors - 2006 NAHA winners crowned p.18; Go for the Glow w - This season’s hottest accessory is a fresh face. Get glowing skin with these tips p.20; Runway-Rich -Rich Colour - Give your clients the look p.22; Canucks in Moscow - Team Canada at OMC Hair World p.24; Where have you gone? - Following up on lost clients p.24; Pink Everything - The beauty biz does its part in the ﬁght against breast cancer p.26; Why Are You Dressed Like it’s Halloween? - Louise Amos gets spooky with a vampire-girl collection p.28

MEN

For the Boys - Technology gives them the goods

NAILS Violet Femmes - Jessica Ellison spotlights almond-shaped, purplelacquered nails

TANNING

Consumer Trends - Quality skin care is a priority

> CONTENTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 10

32 HAIR TRENDS

THE 2006 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE 8

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

pureology.com 800.331.1502 ©PureOlogy Research, LLC

Luxuriant. Radiant. Brilliant. The luxury of exquisite colour care exists inside the NanoWorks® Super Luxury System. NanoWorks® Shampoo, NanoWorks® Condition and NEW NanoWorks® ShineLuxe™.

Longer Lasting Hair Colour GUARANTEED!®

l salon MAGAZINE

FEATURES 38

RUNWAY RUSH

THE SOHO COLLECTION

NEO-MOD

SCENE Competing for backstage styling privileges

VISUAL FEATURE Tim Hartley modernizes iconic hair

FACING FACTS ABOUT HORMONES

PARACHUTE WOMAN P

RAISING THE ROOF

CAPITAL AFFAIRS

Davines Serendipity collection

PROFILE UK-born stylist Lorraine Wilkins soars in small-town Canada

PULSE Newfoundland’s Kevin O’Regan is rock solid in getting it done

INTERIORS Ottawa’s Elee Salon and Spa

EDITOR’S LETTER

INTERIORS

Elee Salon & Spa in Ottawa

PUBLISHER’S NOTE HOT PRODUCTS EVENTS SCOOP PRESS PASS LAST WORD by John Steinberg

HOT PRODUCTS 10

VISUAL FEATURE

ESTHETICS From babies to boomers, your skin reveals an inner truth

REGULARS 12 14 78 82 84 86 96

CONTESSA GALLERY Dorissa Cerven discusses the inspiration behind her Contessa 17 photo shoot

salon > october 06

SCENE L’Oréal Runway Style Competition

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Four New Ways to Dazzle by Design Designer Series by OPI in Four New Shades! Featuring OPI’s exclusive ProWide Brush! TM

Designer Series by OPI Nail Lacquers are formulated with precious diamond dust to reflect light in an explosion of brilliance. Available in a stunning 12-piece display with testers to create excitement! To discover all sixteen shades, plus Designer Series Base Coat & Top Coat, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor. Colors shown left to right: DS sensation, DS dazzle, DS perfection, and DS royal.

EDITOR’S LETTER

COLOURFUL PEOPLE

��

Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

salon > october 06

PHOTO BABAK

��

YOU GOTTA LOVE COLOURFUL PEOPLE. They represent a huge part of any successful salon’s business revenues. These are the clients who come into the salon like clockwork every four to six weeks to have colour services along with a cut and styling and walk out feeling fabulous. Our feature story this issue is The Psychology Of Colour. The colour choices we make on a daily basis have a huge influence on how we feel, from what we wear and what we eat to how we colour our homes and, most importantly for your businesses, the colours people wear on their hair. We wanted to explore the colourist-client relationship. What are some of the reasons why clients are loyal to a colourist? How much influence does the colourist have over a client’s hair colour choice? Do client’s career choices affect their decisions about hair shades? We talked to five colourists about five clients, and then we interviewed the clients themselves. We went from coast to coast—check out their stories on page 49. There are tips and lessons to be learned from all of them. I know I got a few more colour story ideas from the interviews alone. If you haven’t signed up already, go to salon52.ca and quickly register to get your weekly fix of Salon Magazine delivered to your personal email. And as you read through the magazine, look for this icon at the bottom of stories to see the date that story will appear in an expanded version on salon52.ca. I’d like to welcome Chantel Simmons as a regular contributor to Salon Magazine. Chantel is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, which covers anti-aging, enhancement and wellness—topics many of your clients love to talk about. And now back to colourful people. With Contessa 18 judging completed, the semi-finalists for the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards are listed on page 60. Ticket sales are in full swing—see the ad on the left for your chance to win a free Contessa weekend at the Delta Chelsea Hotel. Book your tickets before October 19 to be in the draw. The theme is Global Beauty. Come out and celebrate with all your colleagues in the industry. It’s an exciting night that salutes Canada’s best in hair, makeup and nails. Call 416.869.3131 Ext 108 to book now! I hope to see you there on Sunday, November 12, at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre.

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

800.833.NAIL

760.599.2900

www.creativenaildesign.com

Get Crazy with Scentsations.

kick & shout

PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 15 issue 13

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | editor@beautynet.com ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | art@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | editorial@beautynet.com CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/MANAGING EDITOR (FRENCH) Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com COPY EDITOR

Francie Wyland

TEAMWORK

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Pam Fulford

EDITORIAL INTERN

Helen Vong

ART ASSISTANT / PRODUCTION DESIGNER

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | design@beautynet.com CONTRIBUTORS

Malumir R. Beavis, Lori Colborne, Kim Hughes, Chantel Simmons, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | publisher@beautynet.com SENIOR ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER

Andrew Mannsbach > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | mannsbach@beautynet.com CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905-729-0227 salon@tamicirc.ca ACCOUNTANT

Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com PRESIDENT

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | president@beautynet.com VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins > 604-929-1700 | westcoast@beautynet.com SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $14.99 + gst = $15.89 ($17.09 in NL, NS and NB) 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $29.95 + gst = $31.75 ($34.14 in NL, NS and NB) FOR US 1 year (8 issues) $50USD ADDRE SS CH AN GE S

Email: salon@tamicirc.ca Fax: 905-729-4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905-729-1288

PO Box 357, Beeton ON, L0G 1A0 Canada SAL ON MAGAZ IN E HAIR BILL ROWLEY PHOTO BABAK

RECENTLY, THE STAFF AT THE MAGAZINE elected to paint our boardroom—part of our long-term goal of making the office look better. We delegated tasks, selected paint, got all the necessary supplies and put together a team to do the actual painting. I was delighted, as we were saving some money by doing it ourselves. The boardroom turned out great. However, I was surprised by the conversation that took place during the painting. As the paint was spread the chatter flowed, and so did the creative ideas, and we were able to solve some of those nagging problems we all dread dealing with. The environment was relaxed and fun. We felt we’d accomplished more by doing the painting than if we’d had a formal meeting around the boardroom table—and the walls looked fabulous to boot! I’ve always known the power of teamwork was immense. What I found fascinating, though, was that doing a non-work-related job together really brought our team together. The office hierarchy got switched around— although, no kidding here, in our office that seems to happen a lot—and different people had different responsibilities. Maybe it was simply the change from doing day-to-day work. The task gave our staff a sense of ownership and pride about improving or beautifying our communal working space. That same week I got three phone calls from high-profile salon owners asking me where to find the best stylists. I could hear their frustration at not having an industry-specific job bank or forum. Coincidentally, we were about to launch salon52, our weekly email newsletter. That’s when I knew how important a role salon52.ca—our brand new website for beauty professionals in Canada—could play for our industry just with its job postings section alone. A few weeks later, we’re receiving incredibly positive feedback with comments like “Thank goodness a place we can all go!” Finding good staff is critical, but keeping them is equally important. As the saying goes, it’s a lot cheaper to keep a customer than to find new one. The same theory applies to staff. Whether it’s Gen Y’s you’re hiring or more seasoned beauty pros, one thing is clear, people want to be stimulated, motivated and rewarded. Think about what you can do to keep your team happy and productive. You might be pleasantly surprised by what a small diversion can do to pull people together and build a stronger team.

SENIOR STAFF WRITER

365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON M4W 3L4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton ON L0G 1A0 Canada

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

National Magazine Awards GOLD

SILVER

TOP FIVE

2003 2002 1998 1995

2003 2001 1997 1996

2002 2001 2000 1999 1996

Printed on recy

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C A N A D A From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416-869-3131, fax 416-869-3008 or e-mail circulation@beautynet. com. Our privacy officer is Les Hetherington at 416-869-3131 ext. 112.

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

power

your

color business

up to 118,876 referrals. Feel the power of new client referrals from national advertising, Aveda Experience Centers and aveda.com. This October through December, our Color Conserve™ Strengthening Treatment campaign drives guests to Aveda Concept Salons with a powerful incentive: book a free hair color consultation and receive a free sample of Color Conserve™ Shampoo and Conditioner.

Grow with the power of our network—call 888.222.4152 today.

HAIR LINES

Gold Dust Woman 1. TIME OF THE YEAR

4. RISE AND SHINE “The shine that this line gives is just phenomenal. Part of the reason is ISO’s patented Triplex-C complex, a protective shield that adheres to the outer layer of the cuticle and lasts for up to 20 shampoos.”

“The gold, amber, copper and bronze shades that this range offers transitions your clients nicely from summer to fall. Its colours—Very Light Golden Copper Blonde, Light Copper Golden Blonde, Medium Golden Brown and Medium Golden Blonde—fit with fall’s colour shift.”

5. TOO HEALTHY?

2. THE DAMAGE IS DONE

6. SOMETHING FOR EVERYBODY

“After a summer of sun and possible chlorine damage, coloured hair requires a boost. Coppers and golds are ideal for re-pigmenting this type of weatherbattered hair, making Bronze Goddess an excellent choice for corrective treatments. For correction, use Bronze Goddess with i.color Zero Lift—a threevolume developer—or as a deposit only.”

“There is enough colour range in Bronze Goddess for every skin type. A colour like Medium Golden Brown would work with someone with a darker skin tone. The line’s deep sunset tones are good to showcase end-of-summer tans for fairer skin tones. The thing to remember is that this line gives an option for a client looking for warmth and sheen but not wanting red. Grey coverage is also exceptional.”

3. MIXING IT UP “Bronze Goddess is a great complementary series to any colour line. So if you have a 150-shade line but are missing these key colours, you can easily supplement with them.”

salon > october 06

“The one complaint you’ll hear with Bronze Goddess is ‘My hair feels too healthy!’ The line’s positively charged moisturizers, proteins and antioxidants condition, strengthen and protect during the colouring process.”

7. PASSION FOR FASHION “We’re seeing a lot of warm accessories and accent pieces in fashion this season. And, as we know, there’s no better accessory than hair.”—MA

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTO COURTESY ISO

THE NEW ISO I.COLOR BRONZE GODDESS COLLECTION is a four-shade colour range befitting the most demanding client. Debbie Goodridge, national trainer for ISO, tells us why.

Seven reasons why ISO’s Bronze Goddess collection is truly goddess-worthy

RICH.RADIANT.RAVISHING.

NEWDOUBLE FUSION RUNWAY REDS

EXPLORE THE SEASON’S HOTTEST HUES FOR HAIR: NEW DOUBLE FUSION RUNWAY REDS ARE A MODERN TAKE ON RED AS YOU KNOW IT. NEW RED, COPPER/red, RED/copper AND RED/violet, GIVE DARING, OFF-THE-PALETTE VIBRANCY AND TONE TO EVEN THE DARKEST NATURAL LEVELS. DISCOVER THESE AUBURN, COPPER AND BURGUNDY COUTURE RED SHADES, THE NEWEST ADDITIONS TO DOUBLE FUSION. IT’S THE LATEST INSPIRATION FROM REDKEN, THE HAIRCOLOR CHOICE OF RUNWAY DESIGNERS FROM NEW YORK TO PARIS AND MILAN.

GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. WWW.REDKEN.CA

1.866.9.REDKEN

HAIR LINES

CONTINENTAL VICTORS 2006 NAHA winners crowned

HE WINNERS OF THE 2006 NORTH AMERICAN HAIRSTYLING AWARDS were announced at a gala ceremony on Sunday, July 16, 2006 at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino in Las Vegas, Nevada. Comedic actor John O’ Hurley brought his spontaneity and wit to the event as emcee. The NAHA post-party, sponsored by TIGI, was held at Studio 54 at the MGM Grand. Canada took top honours in five of the 12 categories:

John O’ Hurley

Texture Jackie Elliott ((Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg, MB) Make-Up Artist of the Year Angelia Senevisai (Maplewood, MN) Student Hairstylist of the Year Kirby Keomysay (Capitol School of Hairstyling, Omaha, NE) Salon Team of the Year Enviro Trends (St. Thomas, ON) Editorial Stylist of the Year Veronica Bessey (Carrollton, TX) Hairstylist of the Year Maureen Anlauf

( (Juut SalonSpa, St. Paul, MN) Master Stylist of the Year Heather Wenman (Entrenous/Academy Heather Wenman, London, ON) In addition to awarding the 12 categories, named to the Hall of Leaders for 2006 is business leader Carmen DePasquale, founder and CEO of DePasquale Companies. Winning the esteemed Lifetime Achievement Award is Michael Gordon, founder and CEO of Bumble and Bumble.—SP

L-R: Vault Salon’s Brandy O’Reilly and winner Jackie Elliott, Babak accepts for Adriana Balea, BSG’s John Costanza with Angelia Senevisai, Master Stylist Heather Wenman gets her photo with Vidal Sassoon, and Lorraine Wilkins with PureOlogy’s Jim Markham

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTOS COURTESY PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION/NAHAS ASSOCIA

Avant Garde Nicholas French (Matrix Academy, West Hampton, NY NY) Contemporary Classic Dusty Simington ((Salon Gregorie’s, Newport Beach, CA CA) Hair Color Adriana Balea ((Toronto, ON) Long Hair Dressing Ann Bray ((The Masters, Huntsville, AL AL) Makeover Lorraine Wilkins (Enviro Trends, St. Thomas, ON)

YOU HAVE SPOKEN. YOU HAVE BEEN HEARD. FOR THE SIXTH CONSECUTIVE YEAR, YOU HAVE VOTED REDKEN 5TH AVENUE NYC

AS THE BEST OVERALL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS COMPANY

THE 500,000 SALON PRO VISITORS WHO LOG ON MONTHLY TO BEHINDTHECHAIR.COM, THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY’S LARGEST ONLINE COMMUNITY FOR LICENSED PROFESSIONALS, ARE THE EXPERTS IN IDENTIFYING THE “BEST OF THE BEST”... ALSO KNOWN AS THE WINNERS OF THE 2006 STYLIST CHOICE AWARDS. VOTED FOR BY OUR PEERS – THE HAIR STYLING COMMUNITY – REDKEN, THANKS ALL THOSE WHO WENT ONLINE TO VOTE. REDKEN WILL CONTINUE TO SURPASS EXPECTATIONS IN PRODUCT SCIENCE, PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY, EDUCATION, AND INSPIRATION. THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT.

REDKEN WINS TOP HONORS AT THE BEHINDTHECHAIR.COM 2006 STYLIST CHOICE AWARDS! IN TOTAL, REDKEN 5TH AVENUE NYC CLAIMED A PHENOMENAL 7 STYLIST CHOICE AWARDS THIS YEAR, INCLUDING: FAVORITE NEW SHAMPOO OR CONDITIONER: REDKEN BLONDE GLAM FAVORITE PERMANENT COLOR LINE: REDKEN COLOR FUSION FAVORITE DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR LINE: REDKEN SHADES EQ

FAVORITE NEW PRODUCT FOR COLOR, COLOR ENHANCEMENT, OR COLOR PROTECTION: REDKEN COLOR EXTEND FAVORITE MANUFACTURER-SPONSORED EVENT: REDKEN SYMPOSIUM FAVORITE ADVANCED ACADEMY: REDKEN EXCHANGE

BEST OVERALL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS COMPANY:

REDKEN 5TH AVENUE NYC GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. WWW.REDKEN.CA

1.866.9.REDKEN

HAIR LINES

By Chantel Simmons

This season’s hottest accessory is a fresh face. Get glowing skin with these treatments and tips

MICRODERMABRASION Like a mild sandblast, microdermabrasion uses tiny pebbles forced through a machine to slough off your dead skin cells and flaky skin, increase blood circulation, reduce acne and unblock pores to help fight acne. “Most clients see an improvement within one to two treatments,” says Dr. Fred Weksberg, dermatologist, owner and medical director of the Centre for Cosmetic Dermatology and the Toronto Vein Clinic (www.drweksberg.com). IDEAL IF: you have acne or tougher skin. “In older patients, where they have thicker and more leathery skin, it’s best to use microdermabrasion.”

AT-HOME MICRODERMABRASION These kits include aluminum oxide crystals in a creamy base, which you apply to your skin, then massage with your fingers or a hand-held, battery-operated device. The super-fine crystals stimulate blood flow and slough off dead skin. IDEAL IF: you have acne or dry skin and want a glowing complexion without the down time. TIP: Try Neutrogena Advanced Solutions (with hand-held applicator); Lancôme Resurface-C Microdermabrasion kit

TIP: Avoid if you have thin skin or broken capillaries. “For best results, try a combination program of three peels and three micordermabrasion sessions in alternating sequence,” says Dr. Weksberg.

AT-HOME PEELS These peel kits are usually composed of glycolic and other acids, which you apply with a cotton pad, sweeping it over your face for up to five minutes. Then you apply a neutralizer or water to stop the peeling process. Dr. Weksberg warns that at-home kits are not always “strong enough to provide the best possible improvement.” IDEAL IF: you want a quick glow before a night out or for maintenance between in-office peels. TIP: Makes skin feel smoother and tighter almost instantly. Try a microdermabrasion-peel combo kit, such as Vichy Peel Microabrasion kit or Olay Regenerist Microdermabrasion & Peel kit.

GLYCOLIC PEEL A dermatologist or trained esthetician lightly brushes pure glycolic acid onto your skin for two minutes, which stimulates collagen production. Then he or she neutralizes and wipes away the acid. Sessions start at 10 per cent potency and increase to 75 per cent over time. “Peels are ideal for improving skin texture, colour, brightness and reducing pore size,” says Dr. Weksberg. IDEAL IF: you have thinner skin, sun or age spots. TIP: Ask for a pure glycolic peel (not a diluted form) to avoid sensitivity issues, and be sure to wear SPF 45 immediately afterward. Don’t go for a brow waxing one month before a peel, to avoid burns.

salon > october 06

Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

HAIR DANILLE EVE MANDAP MAKEUP CHRISTINA HEGEDUS PHOTO RHELLO YOROBE CONTESSA 17

Go for the Glow

nEW

BRONZED

Goddess

reveal the goddess within ��

��

collection

��

HAIR LINES

Give your clients the look

salon > october 06

HIS SEASON YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIR CAN BE SPORTING the same richness and vibrant colours of some of the world’s top supermodels. And this season, according to Redken, it’s all about reds. Just in time for the fall season, they recently launched new Double Fusion Runway Reds in Red, COPPER/red, RED/copper and RED/violet. “These Runway Reds are a modern take on red, inspired by the fashion runways of New York, Paris and Milan,” says Terry Ritcey, director of education for Redken Canada. “Runway Reds are the auburn, copper and burgundy couture red shades, and the newest additions to Redken’s Double Fusion. Red appeared in unexpected ways on the 2006 transatlantic Fashion Week runways for the upcoming fall/winter 06 and spring/summer 07 season. From plum velvet gowns worn with scarlet stilettos to strappy bustiers in burgundy to elbow-length gloves in sultry shades of magenta, crimson and maroon, designers were bringing to life their interpretation of red.” Redken’s Double Fusion collection is a unique series of shades within the Color Fusion line, which is a modern collection of permanent intermixable colour cremes with a palette of over 70 shades. In addition to its specific and unique colour palette, Double Fusion provides high-lift and customized deposit in just one step. Runway Reds are high-lift reds that can provide fashionable colour options for even the darkest bases of hair, from glamorous golds to the richest of reds. Ritcey adds, “Double Fusion contains Redken’s new Colorbond Technology, which includes high-tenacity dyes that lock together inside the hair; ceramide that repairs the hair’s surface and seals it to protect the beauty of the color; cationic conditioners that nourish and smooth the hair; and coconut oil that helps form a protective barrier against water. From a colour technician’s perspective, Double Fusion shades are always mixed in a 1:2, ratio or double the amount of Pro-oxide Cream Developer to colorant. Double Fusion Reds can be used on natural levels one to five using 20 or 30 volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer, providing up to four levels of lift. Double Fusion Reds are only intermixable with each other.”—SP

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTOS COURTESY REDKEN

RUNWAY-RICH COLOUR T

HAIR LINES

canucks in moscow

Where have you gone? Following up on lost clients

IN JULY, TEAM CANADA WENT TO MOSCOW to participate in Hairworld. “The Canadian Junior Team placed 7th and the Canadian Senior Team placed 19th,” says Norma Ann Eaton, president of Canadian Cosmetologists Competition National Association (CCCNA). “The CCCNA took responsibility to get our country registered to compete in a very short time frame, and we managed to pull it off thanks to the support of our wonderful sponsors— including Wella, Pivot Point, NP Group, Wahl, Amaguru African Hair Gallery, Dannyco and CIABC. Our competitors need to see what is happening on the world stage and become better for competitions at this level,” says Eaton. They now have almost two years to prepare for the next big competition in Chicago in 2008. Teams will be chosen for that in the new year.”—SP TEAM CANADA: Canadian Senior Team Augustus Belcourt, House of Hair Design, Camrose, AB Luigi Di Tacchio, O’Hair Salon & Spa, Thornhill, ON Sofia Iannantuono, St Laurent Trends, Laval, QC Silvy Lemay (alternate), Alternative Hair Design & Esthetics, Orleans, ON Canadian Junior Team Sharon Sugrue, Alternative Hair Design & Esthetics, Orleans, ON Jacob Rozenberg, Vancouver Technical Secondary, Vancouver, BC

Lina Shamoun, Deeva Hair, Kitchener, ON Domenic Barbiero (alternate), Hair Xtacy, Burlington, ON Canadian individual competitors Rosalind Satar, Avant Garde, Vancouver, BC Svetlana Gridine, Richard Jeha Hair Company, Vancouver, BC Rachel Fortino, Richard Jeha Hair Company, Vancouver, BC Daniel Benoit, Pure, Montreal, QC Aldo Furfaro, St Laurent Coiffure Montreal, QC

AV ED A EN VIR ON ME NTA L TIP

GO CHLORI NE-FREE Look for unbleached or “totally “chlorine-free” paper and supplies (envelopes, tissues and toweling). es, Avoid “manila” folders and envelop and d which are actually bleache then dyed to achieve their distinctive colour.

salon > october 06

Lori Colborne is president of LSL Marketing Consultants, a recognized keynote speaker, trainer and author of Innovative Marketing Made Easy. She can be reached at lori@LSLmarketing.com

2006-2007 BUYER’S GUIDE ADDENDUM CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN The following distributors carry Creative Nail Design Products BC- Europe Cosmetiques, #107-

3989 Henning Drive, Burnaby, BC V5C 6N5, 604.689.3992 Fax: 604.689.1474, AB- Pro Nail Systems, Bay 14, 6020 2 St SE, Calgary, Alberta T2H 2L8, Ph: 403.529.6555 Fax: 403 529.0953, info@pronailsysytems. com QC- Europe Cosmetiques 4390 Bois-Franc, St. Laurent, Quebec, H4S 1A7, 800.263.8888 Fax: 514.333.4008

DIKSON SERVICE CANADA INC Brands/Products: Dikson Color Extra, ERRE(CI) Sport for Men, &CO Styling, &CO Fruit, Impulse Color Distributors: ON-A&T Beauty Supply, Argus Beauty, Bradford Beauty, Central Beauty Supply, Hiscott Beauty Supply, Mountain Beauty & Esthetics, Rainbow Electric, Toronto Barber & Beauty Supply Esthetics Plus should be listed as

LCN Canada 6012-82 Avenue, Edmonton Alberta, T6B 0E7 ph. 780-466-5544, 800-5573223 fx. 780-463-0324

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTO COURTESY CCCNA

Team Canada at OMC Hair World

HOW OFTEN HAS AS YOUR STAFF NOTICED they haven’t seen a client in a while and done nothing about it? As an owner/manager, it is important to show your salon’s clients you care by personally making a phone call. This phone call is too important to leave a message. The only way to find out if the client has been disappointed is to talk to them directly. Here is a sample phone script: “Hi, this is (first and last name), the owner/manager of ABC Salon & Spa. We were looking over our client records the other day and (technician’s name) and I noticed we haven’t seen you in a while. I’m just calling to see if everything is all right.” Don’t say another word; your client will speak if you pause long enough! The reason your client has not been in could be anything from a disappointing experience with the salon/spa to a personal crisis, illness, loss of a job... etc. Respond appropriately to the information that is shared with you. If the problem lies with the salon/spa, offer a solution to reinstate the relationship. Depending on the level of disappointment, compensation will vary. If it is a personal crisis, always offer your sympathy and send a card signed by the team. You may want to include a gift certificate. Building strong relationships with customers requires careful attention to the visiting pattern of each client and immediate follow up if that pattern drastically changes. It’s worth the call to show you care.

HAIR LINES

pink everything The beauty biz does its part in the ﬁght against breast cancer CANCER RESEARCH BENEFITS US ALL. So spread the word about these Bubblicious promos, all benefiting the good fight against breast cancer.—MA Aveda Hand Relief

Schwarzkopf Seah Color Revival shampoo and conditioner

Essie Pink Ribbon mini duo

Pink Chi Pro Dryer

Marilyn Brush Tribute To The Cure brushes Wahl Beret and Peanut clippers in pink

14.10.06

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Upcoming Great Lengths Education Seminars: SEPTEMBER 10-11 TORONTO, ONTARIO SEPTEMBER 24-25 MONTREAL, QUEBEC OCTOBER 15-16 VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA OCTOBER 29-30 TORONTO, ONTARIO NOVEMBER 12-13 QUEBEC CITY, QUEBEC NOVEMBER 19-20 TORONTO, ONTARIO DECEMBER 10-11 TORONTO, ONTARIO

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement Learn more about joining the Great Lengths Certified Salon Network today by calling HSC International at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com.

HAIR - genetics made it what it is – Great Lengths perfects it with the technology only the most recognized name in hair extensions can deliver. Add length, volume, colour and style with the most advanced and gentle methods of application, available only through Great Lengths Certified Extension Artists. First quality, 100% human hair strands are available in 35 hand-blended shades plus 14 “fashion” shades. www www.hscinternational.com

WHY ARE YOU DRESSED LIKE IT’S HALLOWEEN?

T’S NOT EASY to make a highly thematic collection appear sophisticated and fresh. But with a wellbalanced mix of the eerie and the beautiful, TONI&GUY stylist Louise Amos pulls off a gorgeous Nosferatu-inspired range of looks.—MA

Louise Amos gets spooky with a vampire-girl collection

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

HAIR LOUISE AMOS, TONI&GUY KNIGHTSBRIDGE, UK MAKEUP JOHN CHRISTOPHER PHOTOS STUART WESTON

HAIR LINES

For your nearest L’ANZA distributor, call Key Beauty Systems toll-free (800) 661-1424

MEN

For the boys

Technology gives them the goods

HIS YEAR HAS SEEN AN INCREDIBLE NUMBER of manufacturers tackling the men’s grooming market with the vigorous attention it deserves. Studies show that 98 per cent of men use grooming products, and 50 per cent of men mention hair care as their most important need in grooming. New technology and research are leading to more extensive lines of products to meet the individual needs of each and every client. With this in mind, “Schwarzkopf has reformulated BC Hairtherapy for Men using the

PHOTOS COURTESY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL PROFESS

innovative G2-force technology that blends natural amino acid glycine with glucose-caffeine complex,” says Tawnya Hallman, brand manager for Schwarzkopf Professional. “The glycine penetrates deep within each hair shaft to strengthen the hair, while the glucose-caffeine complex energizes and invigorates the hair and scalp. This exclusively developed range offers long-term solutions that really work. After all, like women, men have different hair care needs, so we have a variety of products to address those needs.” In the newly formulated Bonacure range there are four shampoos: Vitalising shampoo for normal hair, scalp and body; Hydrating shampoo for dry, stressed hair and scalp; Dandruff control shampoo; and an Activating shampoo for thinning hair, with carnitine tartrate to activate and energize hair roots. The line also includes a styling gel to give texture, style control and strong hold. The invigorating fragrance—woody scents of cedar and sandalwood and spicy amber overtones—suits men.—SP

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Inspiring

excellence.

Congratulations to the Canadian winners of the 2006 Global Salon Business Awards.

Across Canada they’ve been recognized and honoured as world leading hairdressing salon-spa owners. They’ve mastered the business, management, leadership and entrepreneurial skills necessary to enjoy true business success. Canadian salon-spa owners have once again shown inspired vision within their industry.

Eliane’s Hair & Esthetics Salon Entrepreneur of the Year -Single Unit

EvelineCharles Salons-Spas Salon Entrepreneur of the Year -Multiple Unit

Chatters Canada Inc.

Entrepreneurial Excellence: General Management

Civello Salon Spa

Entrepreneurial Excellence: Client Philosophy/Marketing

Megahair Salon

Entrepreneurial Excellence: Salon Leadership

HAIR TRENDS

October 2006

ziggy played guitar REFERENCING DAVID BOWIE’S ZIGGY STARDUST PERSONA, THIS MULTI-HUED ORANGE, PURPLE AND BLONDE COLOUR COMBO IS GLAMOROUS AND DECADENT.

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

COLLECTION: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS FUSION COLLECTION CREATIVE DIRECTION, ESSENTIAL LOOKS: STEVE HOGAN CREATIVE DIRECTION, HAIR: TYLER JOHNSTON HAIR: DUFFY @ PREMIER COLOUR: TRACY HAYES PHOTOS: CALLE STOLTZ @ LUNDLUND.COM 28.10.06

a punk rocker now A MIX OF BLONDE AND BROWN SET ON A CHOPPY, DISHEVELLED CUT, THIS LOOK REPRESENTS A NEW, SOPHISTICATED PUNK ROCK LOOK

straight shooter COLOUR ENHANCES CUT. HERE, HAIR IS SMOOTHED DOWN AND PLACED CLOSE TO THE HEAD, PANELS CLEAR AND COMPREHENSIBLE.

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

▼

MAKING THE STRATEGIC PLACEMENT OF COLOUR

october 06 < salon

HAIR TRENDS

COLLECTION: RED HOT, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS CUT: DJ MULDOON COLOUR: LUCIE DOUGHTY PHOTOS: COURTESY JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS 21.10.06

ruby tuesday cherry cola

A SUPER-ASYMMETRICAL

FRAMING CUT COLOURED BLACK AT RUBY REDS WITH A CUT CREATES A LOOK THAT THE ROOTS AND GEOMETRIC BLOOD MORE VERSATILE THAT YOU WOULD RED AT THE TIPS IS PROVES FIRST THINK. HERE, THE MODEL PULLS THAT A LITTLE GOTH CAN

the amber road COLOUR TRENDS OFTEN MIMIC NATURE. SO COLOURING WITH A VARIATION OF FALL COLOURS—LIKE THE AMBER HUES SHOWN HERE—IS AN IDEAL AND CLASSIC CHOICE.

GO A LONG WAY. OFF THE LOOK WITH AN ELEGANT, WHITE STRAPLESS DRESS AND SOPHISTICATED, PLUSH MAKEUP.

cherry cola FRAMING CHERRY REDS WITH A GEOMETRIC CUT CREATES A MORE VERSATILE LOOK THAN YOU WOULD FIRST THINK. HERE, THE MODEL PULLS OFF THE LOOK WITH AN ELEGANT, WHITE STRAPLESS DRESS PLUSH MAKEUP.

salon > october 06

▼

AND SOPHISTICATED,

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

The fashion statement this fall is big, bold, beautiful bags. And what’s a beautiful handbag

It’sin thebag.

without beautiful hands? Essie’s six new sumptuous shades of rich natural suedes and deep leather browns add just the right spice to accent beautifully manicured hands. The possibilities for perfectly polished nails this fall? It’s in the bag!

Handbag © Carlos Falchi

Available in 6, 12, and 36 bottle displays, plus a special 4-pack mini-size.

Call 1.8OO.232.1155 or visit www.essie.com

HAIR TRENDS COLLECTION: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL FALL/ WINTER 2006 RARE SPECIES COLLECTION PHOTOS: COURTESY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

04.11.06

silverado SILVER-LILAC BLONDE LOCKS ARE FEATHERED SECTION BY SECTION TO DELIVER A LIGHT, FEMININE EFFECT. HEIGHT IS USED FOR PRESENCE AND DIMENSION.

blue monday VARYING LENGTHY, Y, BLUNT Y PANELS OF HAIR ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH DEEP BLUE PIECES AND SMOOTHLY FLAT IRONED.—MA

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

40 Years in Canada

In celebration of our 85th Anniversary, with over 40 years in Canada, we are passing on special savings on most Takara Belmont Equipment. Contact your local Takara Belmont Distributor before years end, and take advantage of the savings!

Takara Company, Canada, Ltd. 2076 South Sheridan Way Mississauga ON L5J 2M4

1.800.268.5351

tel. 905.822.2755 fax. 905.822.6203

www.takarabelmont.ca

SCENE

RUNWAY RUSH Competing for backstage styling privileges Text by Stephen Puddister

TORONTO

▼

PHOTOS COURTESY L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, TORONTO AND FINALE PHOTOS BY DAVID HOU

On August 21, 22 and 23, five talented young hairstylists in the cities of Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver got the opportunity to style the hair of professional models under the pressure of the clock in the hope of winning the chance to work backstage at Paris Fashion Week. This was the culmination of the second annual L’Oréal Professionnel Runway Style competition, which is open to hairstylists under 25. “It’s only the second edition of this particular initiative, but we’re already seeing the evolution of these young stylists,” remarked Colin Ford, director of education and events for L’Oréal Professionnel. “The aim of this competition is to develop the art of working specifically at fashion shows, which requires a different way of styling than at a competition strictly for hairstyling.” Two lucky contestants from each city squared off for the finale in Toronto on September 6 in front of a packed house at Suite 106 nightclub in Toronto’s trendy nightclub district. The victor, Mathew Collins of Rinaldi Salon & Spa in Barrie will be heading to Paris for Fashion Week this fall. An Minh Vu of TONI&GUY hair salon in Vancouver won second place, while Mood-by-Pure’s (Montreal) Matthew Waldron finished third.

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

MONTREAL

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

VANCOUVER

october 06 < salon

SCENE

FINALE 1. MATHEW COLLINS Rinaldi Salon & Spa, Barrie, Ont. 2. AN MINH VU TONI&GUY Hair Salon, Vancouver 3. MATTHEW WALDRON Mood-by-Pure, Montreal

SEMIFINALISTS Vince Trichilo Cappuci Salon & Spa, Toronto Jineene Smith Dereck London, Vancouver Marie-France Lessard Salon Pure, Montreal

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

FEATURE

The 2006 Holiday Gift Guide Beautify your clients’ shopping list

Beauty Queens SENSCIENCE LIQUID LUXURY COLLECTION GIFT BOX

HAIR PHOTOS COURTESY HAIRGUM HAIR JEAN PAUL EALET, WAX STATION, PARIS, FRANCE MAKEUP YASMIN HEINZ PHOTOS FELIX LAMMERS

CUCCIO NATURALÉ MILK & HONEY BUTTER BLEND

AUSTRALIAN GOLD MEDICAL CONCEPT SOLUTIONS

NUCRAZE ACCESSORIES PUREOLOGY UREOLOGY NANOWORKS SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER CON

JOICO SKIN LUXE DUO

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

FEATURE

Men’s Special

AMERICAN CREW CITRUS MINT DUO

SCHWARZKOPF BC BONACURE MEN GIFT SET

MATRIX MEN HOLIDAY DUO

HEMPZ HYDRATING WET LINE REDKEN FOR MEN GIFT BOX

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Glam Girls

PAUL MITCHELL PRODUCT PACK

CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN’S CREATIVE SENSATIONS

GOLDWELL STYLING GIFT SETS

CHINA GLAZE JOY TO THE GIRL SET

TIGI BED HEAD SUPER SMART PACK

ESSIE HOLIDAY CANDIES 21.10.06 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

CONTESSA GALLERY

The Soho Collection

Dorissa Cerven discusses the inspiration behind her Contessa 17 photo shoot

Edited by Morella Aguirre

he idea for this collection came to me in

New York City, when I came across this boutique in Soho. The shop’s owner, originally a jewellery designer, made really cool, all-black, convertible clothing. One of her pieces—an apron dress that could be worn five different ways—inspired these photos. Next to this black, multi-textured garment, the designer’s jewellery became extremely impactful. Their colour—all these gorgeous jewel tones—really stood out. I felt I could recreate the same effect using this garment on models with jewel-coloured hair. So when I got home and held an open model call, I was really searching for people whose look would be enhanced by deep tones. With the exception of the model with the crimpy hair, I used no hot tools and kept texture looking natural and unpolished. I stuck mostly with my three must-have products: the Joico K Pak Thermal Design Foam Mousse, the Joi Mist Medium Spray and the Joico Crème Wax. “I CHOSE APRICOT-COLOURED HAIR FOR THIS MODEL BECAUSE OF HER FRECKLES. I JUST KNEW THOSE TWO

I love them because they don’t lock the hair too much—there’s no tackiness. So if I need

ELEMENTS WOULD COMBINE WELL. IT

to rework the hair during a shoot, I have the

WAS HUGE CHANGE FOR HER. SHE HAD

freedom to do that.

NEVER GONE THAT LIGHT BEFORE.” HAIR: DORISSA CERVEN, LE COUPE SAUVAGE, LONDON, ON MAKEUP: CHARLES MARTIN PHOTOS: PAULA TIZZARD

salon > october 06

28.10.06 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

“THIS MODEL REQUIRED SERIOUS COLOUR CORRECTION. I USED JOICO VERO CHROME. IN MY OPINION, VERO CHROME IS A PHENOMENAL PRODUCT. I MEAN, THIS MODEL HAD VERY FRAGILE HAIR, AND I WAS ABLE TO KEEP THE LENGTH.”

“THIS GIRL ALREADY HAD SHORT HAIR, “THIS WAS THE ONLY GIRL ON WHOM I USED A HOT TOOL. SINCE I PUT A LOT OF TEXTURE IN THE HAIR, I KEPT THE COLOUR MORE SUBDUED TO ACHIEVE A SENSE OF BALANCE. I MOSTLY USED WEEDY BEIGE TONES.”

SO IN TERMS OF CUTTING ALL I DID WAS ADD MORE TEXTURE WITH A LAYERING TECHNIQUE THAT WOULD GIVE HER MOVEMENT AND LIFT. I USED THREE DIFFERENT SHADES OF RED TO ENHANCE THE TEXTURE AND GIVE THE LOOK A MORE NATURAL EFFECT.”

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

FEATURE

The Psychology of Colour Exploring client-colourist relationships

Intro by Tina Christopoulos and Stephen Puddister Interviews by Stephen Puddister

N A WORLD FILLED WITH EVERY COLOUR OF THE RAINBOW it’s hard to believe that what we

conceptualize as our colour system, based on extensive research, in truth originates deep within our brains. The colours that we see are not formulated in the outside world, but solely depend on the way our brain processes the light that enters our eyes. As professors Narciso Silvestrini and Ernst Peter Fischer acutely observe in their study of various colour systems (www.colorsystem.co ( m), colours are not merely “deeds of light,” as J.W. von Goethe once claimed; colours are also a product of the self, and we decorate our own personal world with them. We make lots of colour choices daily. Whether it’s to decorate our homes or our workplaces, what we wear and even what we eat, the way we respond to individual colours affects our decisions. If it pleases our psyche, we will probably go for it.

HAIR/CONCEPT FRANCO DI SIMONE, SALON ESCAPE, TORONTO, ONT. COLOUR TANYA SZARANSKI-REID PHOTO ANDRE TURLINGS ELECTRONIC PRODUCTION LOUIS CALAUTTI IMAGE PRODUCED FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

So, what about the reasons behind the colours your clients wear on their hair? How much influence do you have on their decisions about colour? Are they bold or conservative in their choices? Are they slaves to fashion trends or restless chameleons? Do their career choices affect their hair colour choices? Are they loyal to you? Salon Magazine went in pursuit of some answers and talked to five highly successful colourists from across the country and a colour client of each of them. Here is what we found….

october 06 < salon

FEATURE In most people's lives there needs to be a balance of

playfulness and

seriousness. Sandra Pittana (left) and Susan Hayward

Susan Hayward

at Taz Hair Co. in Toronto is a Contessa Makeover Colourist winner and a NAHA Colour winner. Susan has been colouring hair for 12 years, and says colour is her life. She almost dropped out of hairstyling school because she hated cutting. Then she discovered colouring. “I understood colour right from the beginning, and I never looked back. I found my passion. Realistically, it gave me a career, not just a job. Unlike my mom, who had to work two jobs to support us, my career as a colourist gives me a very good living. Being is good colourist is about catering to each and every client to help them look their finest and feel good with their looks. “Sandra falls into a certain age bracket of women who are over worrying about what other people think,. They want something that is custom-made for them—fun and current but not looking like they're trying to be in their 20s again.”

Sandra Pittana is a style consultant and has appeared as a guest host on Cityline TV.

“Susan has been colouring my hair for about three years. Once you find someone with good principles, it’s OK. In most people’s lives there needs to be a balance of playfulness and seriousness. In the 90s, fashion was all about black. At that time in my house I had more colour. As clothes became more colourful, the colours in the house became more neutral. When clothes are very colourful, maybe you need something more neutral. “When you address hair colour, you need to address both the cut and the person’s wardrobe and the texture of both. When we think about doing a makeover, I’m not sure if colourists are given enough voice for how much they can add or contribute to the overall look. Linda Evangelista’s career was supercharged and less charged according to what colour she was wearing that season. That’s the power of having a good colourist. My career choice allows me to be as conservative or as crazy as I want. It doesn’t mean I don’t make mistakes. Having a good colourist helps you jump out of these crazy things, like when I went LuLu Red one time. As a colourist, Susan wears the sale on her head. She always looks like she's having a good time with colour herself. “When you have curly hair and you do highlights, if you're not careful and just highlight normally it can look like sheep’s wool. Colouring curly hair requires you to highlight larger chunks so you get colour definition within the curl. You need to pull out stronger pieces. Also, the colourist has to understand how you wear your hair more than once. A good colourist always asks all those questions. You should have one you adore, because he or she is your therapist for the hour.”

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Hair is an artistic medium for me, and colour

is another form of paint to work with. Karen Melay from the Hair Factory in St. John’s, Newfoundland, won the Contessa

for 2006 Newcomer Hairstylist of the Year. She has been cutting and colouring for four years. “I couldn’t choose between the two. I love both equally. I was always artistic—I started to paint at 10 and took classes all through high school, even a class for teens at university when I was 14. So the artistic slant has always been part of my life. Colouring and cutting give me the outlet for that. Hair is an artistic medium for me, and colour is another form of paint to work with. My clients range from kids to seniors, ultra-conservative to the hippest, coolest kids on the block. Close to 90 per cent of my clients get colour. I love to show them what colour can do for their appearance. I had a new client this morning who has never had colour, so part of the initial consult was a trip to the colour bar to introduce her to that area and just show her some possibilities. She says she’ll try some on her next visit.”

Sara van Thiel is studying business administration at college and works as

both a hostess and bartender. Karen has been Sara’s colourist for three years. “I kept going from salon to salon and could not find a good colourist. Then one day I walked into the Hair Factory and met Karen. She did a thorough consultation. I got blond foils, and she did a great job of matching the colour scheme to the cut to really accent the cut. Between work and study I don’t have a lot of time, so I only see her every eight weeks. Like Karen, I am a bit of a fashionista, so it has to be good and it has to last. I rely on her to take me through seasonal changes. She tells me about the different colours and trends that are in and we go from there. I trust her and let her do pretty much what she thinks will work because I always get lots of compliments on my hair. So now I carry her business cards with me and give them out. I told her I would give out her cards as long as she continues to make room for me in her schedule. The deal is, she can’t bump me for the new business. My two sisters and my mom have switched to Karen as well. She does what I like and she knows how to deliver.” Sara van Thiel (left) and Karen Melay

Martin Hillier from The Lounge Hair Studio in Vancouver has been in the business for 32 years.

He says 85 per cent of his salon’s clients colour their hair. “Colour is integral. You can do a fantastic cut, but if you don’t add depth and definition and add shadow and light the hair does not reflect the full potential of that cut.”

Susan Wasserman teaches English literature and academic writing at Douglas College in New Westminster, BC, a suburb of Vancouver. Martin has been her hairstylist for about 15 years. “The time you spend with your hairstylist makes it a very personal relationship. Martin is so engaged and has a wonderful sense of humour. I look forward to visiting him every six weeks and have followed him whenever he moved salons. Whenever I went in and told him I wanted something crazy, he would take me through the process of what I was suggesting and maybe save me from myself. It’s a trust thing. He knows his stuff, and I trust he’ll always do the right thing. Early on I was blond, but red is really me. I am bold. It’s part of my identity, and that’s why I felt

Martin Hillier and Susan Wasserman

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

so weird when I went to brown at one time. But red is such a vibrant colour, which suits my personality. I dress around it—it’s my foundation. Redheads get noticed. I am constantly confronted with rooms full of 18-to-22-yearolds, and I want to hold their attention but not take away from the messages I have to teach. They often comment on my dress and style. So in that vein, I do take colour into consideration for my career; it’s part of the dynamics of it. Martin is the one who makes sure my hair is always at its best.”

october 06 < salon

FEATURE Tristyn Feist

of Salon Escape in Calgary has been doing colour since 1994. “I have loved doing colour only after an epiphany of sorts, when the chemistry and creativity of colour merged and finally made sense to me. That was the day my imagination was set free. In my opinion, colour creates the wow factor. Colour complements the cut and should complement the eyes and skin tone as well as the client’s personality. Using colour to create a wow factor for clients is challenging, as I must consider their lifestyle, colour choices and their personal degree of wow—how much of a statement do they want to make? With the client, it’s all about the consultation and the decisions you make together.”

She knows which

tone is better for my complexion and the shape of my face.

Jan Taylor-Bilenki teaches music to K

to 6 kids in an elementary school in Calgary. Jan describes her colour style as a bold fashionista mix. Tristyn has been colouring Jan’s hair for close to 10 years. “When my old colourist moved, I met Tristyn. She has been a good match for me. After 20 years as a redhead, I am approaching the milestone of 50, and my 20th wedding anniversary is coming up in May 2007, so I was ready for a dramatic change. Tristyn had the perfect answer. My degree of wow, as she likes to call it, is now defined through placement techniques and contrast rather than the “bling” of a bright colour. As a musician, I have always felt comfortable on the edges of colours. Children, especially young children, always notice even the subtlest changes. They will say, ‘Miss, you coloured your hair,’ which is so refreshing. Tristyn treats me like gold—she listens to my concerns. When I have a crisis she helps me through it. When I have an idea that I have gotten from a magazine or someone whose colour style I like, she is able to make it happen for me to suit my personal style. She can adapt the style without copying it. She knows which tone is better for my complexion and the shape of my face. She reads me well, and when it comes to change, she has this analytical conversation that steers us in the direction we want to go. She also cuts, and I prefer having the cut and colour done by the same person—it allows for a more personal, in-depth relationship.”

Tristyn Feist (left) and Jan Taylor-Bilenki

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

THE STERLING 44. NOW IN PINK!

YOU WANT THE BEST FOR YOUR CLIENTS AND THEY LOVE YOU FOR IT. Available now in support of Breast Cancer Awareness, Wahl brings you the BULLET and the STERLING 4 in pink to help find a cure. Get all the power of a full-size clipper, but twice the style.

RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY COOLER WITH THE PURCHASE OF A PINK BULLET WAHL CANADA INC. | 80 ORFUS ROAD, TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA M6A 1M1 | T416-787-4500 | F416-787-0551

FEATURE Lesley Cantwell

Multi-Contessa winner works at Odyssée Le Loft Salon & Spa in Montreal. She has been colouring hair for five years and has also won the Redken Session Stylist of the Year Award. “Colour is such a huge part of who I am—it sets the mood for me. When I have my hair a certain colour, like pink, it makes me feel like spring and summer—bright, lighthearted and happy. Even before going to school, I liked looking at people’s hair colour, decoding what worked and didn’t work and deciding what I would do to make it different— according to the right shade or tone. Variety in my colour is key to who I am and makes a huge difference to my clients. Some of my clients are very conservative. They say they don’t want anything too crazy, so I have to make them feel comfortable with what they choose. I do a consultation every visit. I always give them three options that would work. People these days can have multidimensional hair colours because it has become more socially acceptable. I can take it over the edge and still soften it to where it is acceptable.”

Christina Seguin (left) and Lesley Cantwell

She always ensures that I leave with the

right combination of home care

products.

Christina Seguin is a student of fashion marketing at LaSalle College in

Montreal. She also works part-time as a waitress. Lesley has been her colourist for just over a year now. Christina describes herself as a faithful client who just happens to be a fashionista. “I go every four weeks, so I love to experiment with it. I live at home, and thanks to my parents I have plenty of disposable income. I’ve been every colour—I always like having a funky edge. I just sit in the chair and let Lesley do what she wants. I give her carte blanche. She loves the creative freedom, and I am always happy with the results. She opens my eyes to some of the wonderful possibilities, trends and techniques she is learning. I am always excited to talk to her when she returns from shows and educational sessions. Before Lesley, I was never faithful to one hairstylist or colourist. I was having a colour problem, and she fixed it by doing a lot of backto-back treatments with protein and moisture so it was in a healthy condition before colouring and correcting again. My hair is so healthy now—she is a technical and creative genius. I get compliments all the time. When she is styling and finishing my hair, she puts the products she is using in my hands and explains the why and how to use them. After we are done, she always ensures that I leave with the right combination of home care products. She has a very good sense of how to teach you.” S

21.10.06

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

www.chinaglaze.com

FEATURE

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

neo-mod

Tim Hartley modernizes iconic hair

hrough disconnected layering and high-shine finishing, Tim Hartley subtly modernizes several of the most influential hairstyles of our

time in Davines’ latest collection, Serendipity. With an time impressive assortment of colour, ranging from orangetone reds and lilac-hued blondes to deep and delicate brunettes, Serendipity reminds us that the future is always built on the past.

04.11.06

HAIR: TIM HARTLEY FOR DAVINES PHOTOS: COURTESY DAVINES

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

FEATURE

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

CONTESSA 18 SEMI-FINALISTS CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

CANADIAN SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR

ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Rocco Campanaro, Axcess Salon + Spa Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl Jackie Elliott, Vault Salon & Spa

Académie St-Laurent Coiffure

Rocco Campanaro, Axcess Salon + Spa

Axcess Salon + Spa

Carol Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Eden Salon

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Hair Factory

Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl

Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon

Jie Avenue

Marie Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe

Kathleen Gravel, Coiffure Beauté

J.C. Salons

Dee Fortier, Deeva Hair

Jagoda Hall, Entrenous

Michael’s Health and Beauty Spa

Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator

Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa

Moods Hair Salon

Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Hair Design

Lizanne Laurin, Hair Factory

Red Label Hair Co.

Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory

Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms Mark McLeod, AXIS Hair Salon Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co. Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co. Eve Parr, Studio 157 Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Reynaldo Sopoco, Eden Salon Michael Vandertol, Vandertol Salon and Spa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous

Ricci Hair Co

Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms

Salon Daniel

Jie Matar, Jie Avenue

Salon Escape (Calgary)

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co.

Salon G & A Inc.

Lina Morra-Lomangino, Michael’s Health & Beauty Spa

Salon Gaboa Intl

Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co.

Salon Inpure

Lizanne Laurin, Hair Factory

Salon Verve

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co.

Studio 157

Ralph Scasserra, Xpression The Salon

Taz Hair Co.

Reynaldo Sopoco, Eden Salon

Vault Salon & Spa

Frank Tripodi, Phases Hair Studio

Zazou Hair Studio

Jolaine Turcotte, Académie St-Laurent Coiffure

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Melanie Bouffard, Three Small Rooms Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl

Tony Jorge, RST Institute

Jackie Elliott, Vault Salon & Spa

Jimmy Lapointe, Pin-up Hair

Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon

Lizanne Laurin, Hair Factory

Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co.

Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory

Kera Spencer, Michael’s Health and Beauty Spa

Karen Melay, Hair Factory

Heather Wenman, Entrenous

Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure

Sandro Zamparini, Pop Design

Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory

MAKEOVER COLOURIST OF THE YEAR

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa

Alexandera Brown, Richard S. Ego & Co.

André Abboud, Propaganda Hair Salon

Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl

Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa

Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa

Jackie Elliott, Vault Salon & Spa

Anthony De Angelis, Académie St-Laurent Coiffure

Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl

Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon

Marie Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe

Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel

Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve

Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit

Marie Josée e Dupuis, Dupuis Escompte-Coiffe

Jagoda Hall, Entrenous

Jaye McLeod, Moods Hair Salon

Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa

Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator

Tanya Pensack, Vault Salon & Spa

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co.

Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms

Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc.

Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair

Marinos Thoma, Planet Hair Studio

Jerry Valle, Salon Verve

Heather Wenman, Entrenous

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Jolaine Turcotte, Académie Acad mie St-Laurent Coiffure

salon > october 06

Rocco Campanaro, Axcess Salon + Spa

▼

Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio

Valerie Beaulieu, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Enzo Cascone, Hairafter Salon & Spa Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa Genevieve Dubois, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Yves Houde, L’Atelier Méga Coiffure Kitty Regan, Vault Salon & Spa Audrey-Frédérique Rousseau, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Kera Spencer, Michael’s Health and Beauty Spa Tanya Sullivan, Rain Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

Carolyn Ferris, Bliss Salon

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

KICKIN’ BEAUTY TO A NEW LEVEL

JOBS � EVENTS � CONTESSAS � MORE Quick to read, bursting with juicy morsels of industry buzz and critically important business advice, salon52 is a weekly emailed version of Salon Magazine –— with an interactive twist.

� Sign up today at www.salon52.ca FOR A CHANCE TO WIN

1 OF 30 MATRIX GIVEAWAYS (value $50.00) Open to beauty professionals only.

from the publishers of Salon Magazine

CONTESSA 18 SEMI-FINALISTS NEWCOMER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Chasty Ballesteros, AXIS Hair Salon Virginy Beauparlant, Sensation Coiffure Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa Marie-Helene Hamel, Coiffure en Harmonie Kozeta Izeti, Taz Hair Co. Karen Melay, Hair Factory Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc. Lina Shamoun, Deeva Hair Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory Lana Vaisbrod, Yellow Orange Salon

STUDENT/APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Shabnam Aghajani, Farah Salon & Spa Susan Carter, Avant Garde Hair Jillian Chapman, Vault Salon & Spa Caroline Khuu, RST Institute Heather McArthur, Vault Salon & Spa Erin McNabb, The Cutting Room Hair Design Danille Mandap, Vault Salon & Spa Katherine Marcus, Avola College of Hairstyling and Esthetics Leslie Oldham, Vault Salon & Spa Mariecel Tamayo, Elan Hair Studio

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR André Abboud, Propaganda Hair Salon Desiree Chew, Propaganda Hair Salon Natalie Darnell, Moods Hair Salon Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Hair Design Jimmy Lapointe, Pin-up Hair Astin Mak, Moods Hair Salon Julie Matson, Satellite Salon Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon Rita Thomas, Angelo’s Salon & Spa

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR John Jen Hoe Chong, Ricci Hair Co. Larissa Lafranchise, Ricci Hair Co. Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit Kristin Page, Hedkandi Salon Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Vicky Rubzow, Ricci Hair Co. Alex Russo, Russo Innovative Hair Design Richa Sandhar, Elysium Hair Body Spirit Greg Silvaggio, Salon Escape (Calgary) Alann Sluser, Ricci Hair Co.

MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR

SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Krystie Assivero, Freelance C.B. Buzzanga, Freelance Jennifer Dionne, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Sabrina Ferri, Salon Verve Miranda Fox, Three Small Rooms Cheryl Gushue, Freelance Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa Maggie Ng, Freelance Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure Emily Vogel, Deeva Hair

Alicia Austin, Chel Salonspa Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa Jackie Elliott, Vault Salon & Spa John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa Jeremy Ottenbreit, Salon Fli Michelle Peace, Chel Salonspa Kitty Regan, Vault Salon & Spa Kimball V. Regier, Chel Salonspa Sandra Tayti, Elan Hair Studio

NAIL ENHANCEMENT ARTIST OF THE YEAR

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Alyson Bampo, Freelance Jennifer Bennett, Hair Factory Cheri Brochu, Soul to Sole Nail and Body Studio Ang Eckensweiler, V Spa Katarina Heinze Neves, Beverly Ashdown Studio Kali Howden, At Your Fingertips Kimberley Smith, Kim’s Bodyworks & Esthetics Rheanne Thackeray, Kenneth Blair Salon

NAIL ART TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR Camille Charland, Safary Beauté Sayaka Sako, Atelier May Hair and Nail Salon Janis Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

salon > october 06

Rocco Campanaro, Axcess Salon + Spa Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Intl Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon Jagoda Hall, Entrenous Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa Dominic Losacco, The Village Salon

TIP

Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co. Reynaldo Sopoco, Eden Salon Lana Vaisbrod, Yellow Orange Salon

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Virginy Beauparlant, Sensation Coiffure Anthony De Angelis, Académie St-Laurent Coiffure Marie Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe Genevieve Ferland, Scandale Beauté Kathleen Gravel, Coiffure Beauté Sonia Lefebvre, Studio 157 Eve Montembeault, Body Spa Eve Parr, Studio 157 Sophie Taing, Continental Elle et Lui Jolaine Turcotte, Académie St-Laurent Coiffure

ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Lizanne Laurin, Hair Factory Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory Karen Melay, Hair Factory Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory

SALON INTERIOR DESIGN OF THE YEAR Coiffure Zhang Deneuville Coiffure et Spa Industria Coiffure Jie Avenue Le Salon Sugar Les Coiffeurs du Faubourg Markus J. Hair & Wellbeing Odyssée Le Loft Pure Form Salon/Studio Senses

COMMUNITY SERVICE AWARD OF THE YEAR Capri Hairstyles Ltd. Diann’s Beauty Salon Eccotique Aveda Spa and Salon Envy Hair Studio & Esthetics Megahair Salon Pin-up Hair Tangles Hair Designs Zennkai Salon

GET YOUR PROFILE ON SALON52.CA Go to salon52.ca, click on Jobs and check out the Beauty Professionals Available link. You can post your résumé and back it up with photos of your work. KEEP AN EYE ON THE ICON Look out for the salon52 icon as you peruse Salon mag. It lets you know when to expect more coverage from salon52.

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

GiGi® is a registered trademark of American International Industries: www.gigispa.com For more information please contact your local Canadian Distributor

ESTHETICS

By Pam Fulford

facing facts about HORMONES

ACNE Puberty often brings an unpleasant bonus: acne. “It’s not diet or hygiene that causes the problem,” reminds Wolgemuth, though keeping the skin clean is important. She advises a simple two-step program for teens, who may not commit to more. “A medicated-based cleanser is very effective.” She likes ingredients like Japanese camphor and glycolic acid to calm the sebaceous glands and keep bacteria at bay. “Bacteria thrive without oxygen, so you want to exfoliate without exacerbating the pustules.” TIP: An acne facial is an effective in-spa treatment.

salon > october 06

And, says McCliskie, remind clients to cleanse twice daily to insure skin is clean.

PREGNANCY Melasma, or hyperpigmentation, is an unattractive brown discolouration on the face that often occurs during pregnancy. Most women find it disappears after childbirth, but they still want to be treated before then. “There are several creams that are effective,” says Wolgemuth, who had melasma with her second child. For more persistent pigmentation, IPL and laser treatments may be the answer. However, the esthetician has to be aware of treatments and how they affect the pregnant client. “We don’t use the Galvanic machine, which helps us deliver skin products to a deeper level, during pregnancy,” says McCliskie. And Wolgemuth adds that certain essential oils in aromatherapy can be harmful during this period. TIP: A pregnancy package—everything from facial to foot massage—is an inspired addition to a spa menu. When they can’t get into their size 8 jeans, your clients will appreciate being pampered.

PERI-MENOPAUSE Forty-year old skin is a reflection of past, present

and future. Blemishes often return, a combination of hormones and stress. The tell tale signs are a sprinkling of little pustules on the chin. The obvious answer is to remove the stress, but that’s not always possible. And to add insult to injury, lines and wrinkles begin to appear around the eyes and mouth. However, there are combination products for in-spa use and home that battle both. TIP: “Skin loses collagen and elastin and needs to be replenished,” says McCliskie. She likes products that contain such ingredients as vitamins A, C and E, peptides, green tea and salicylic acid and anything else that acts on a cellular level.

MENOPAUSE As estrogen drops, skin thins and becomes dryer, and it takes more work to keep it looking healthy. Ongoing maintenance is required, says McCliskie. “Cleanse, condition—that includes toning, exfoliating and a hydrating booster— and protecting, which is moisturizing and sun protection.” TIP: Use a day and night cream, plus a weekly exfoliation. Wolgemuth’s final piece of advice: “Serums and boosters are excellent for menopausal skin.” S

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

HAIR ADRIANA BALEA MAKEUP GIANCARLO INTINI PHOTO BABAK CONTESSA 17

hat do a 15-year-old with acne and a 60-year-old with wrinkles have in common? Hormones! While we can’t recapture the perfect skin of childhood, healthy, glowing skin is a goal most aspire to. “Don’t treat the skin type, treat the skin condition,” says Leanne McCliskie of the International Dermal Institute in Toronto, who advises estheticians to educate themselves on the hormonal challenges clients face. McCliskie and Harmony Wolgemuth of the European Institute of Esthetics in Edmonton share their tips on how to put the best face on problem skin.

From babies to boomers, your skin reveals an inner truth

Put this On your wish liﬆ

19-1220 Ellesmere Rd. Scarborough, ON M1P 2X5 Tel.: 416-291-8057, 1-800-267-4247 Fax: 416-291-2723 e-mail:npgroup@npgroup.ca web:www.npgroup.ca

NAILS

NAILS: JESSICA ELLISON HAIR: SHIRLEY SOLIS MAKEUP: DOUGLAS JAMES TOTH PHOTO: ADRIAN FIEBIG TECHNIQUE: USING LCN SCULPTER FORMATEUR GEL, A NATURAL PRE-TAILORED TIP WAS FILED INTO A SHORT ALMOND SHAPE. CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN’S STUDIO 54 LACQUER WAS APPLIED. GOLD CHARM WAS CREATED USING METRO METAL BY CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN IN CITY OF ANGELS.

Violet Femmes

Jessica Ellison spotlights almond-shaped, purple-lacquered nails Glamorous and sleek, almond-silhouetted nails are an empowering platform for high-watt, electric colours. Here, Jessica Ellison, educator and two-time Contessa Award-winning nail technician, softens this ’80s-inspired look by pairing it with soft makeup and loose, chestnut hair.—MA

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

all@star

deals

Quality • Value • Innovation

SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER ’06 SPECIALS NAIL

@ french permanent t

uv edging

tip of the day X-Tra Large Tip • for clients with large nail beds

™

Permanent French Edging technique together with our Natural Nail Kapping system creates the perfect long-lasting French Manicure

FREE!

Permanent French Edging... ••strengthens natural nails • 3 different french looks • lasts up to 3 weeks • no chipping or peeling

Buy a Mini Pack of Clear Cut-Out Tips and get a Mini Pack of Extra Large Tips FREE!

Clear Cut-Out Tip • half well/no blending • sleek tapered style

FREE!

#723-Promo

salon: $19.95 (value $39.90)

Extra Large Tip Mini Pack contains 80 tips, size #1-#4 (20 of each size)

Clear Cut-Out Mini Pack contains 100 tips, size #1-#10 (10 of each size) plus 3 gm. Instant Glue.

Permanent French Edging Kit contains: 1/2 oz. Bright White Edging, 1/2 oz. Light Pink Edging, 1/2 oz. Shimmer Edging, 1/2 oz. UV Gel Seal, Dappen Dish, Edging Brush, Instructions.

French Collection Pro Size Duo

Purchase a Natural Nail Kapping Kit for $79.95 and receive a Permanent French Edging Kit FREE (a $24.95 value free!)

• economical 2.5 oz. (75 ml.) professional size saves money • easy to hold bubble bottle with large, high capacity brush for quick and easy application

#865-N-Deal salon: $79.95 (value $104.90)

Fast Set Express Polish Cure Top Coat ••dries any polish to an ultra-shiny, nonsmudge finish in just minutes • seals with a tough, non-yellowing layer that protects polish from chipping and wear for two weeks or more! • cures with air, uv light or the heat of a 60 watt light bulb. • no offensive odour

Now purchase a 1/2 oz. Fast Set Express Polish Cure Top Coat and receive a second one FREE Item #481-BBSI Salon: $7.95

Buy 1 Get 1 FREE!

Save 50% New Tilt Bubble Bottle! Pink Veil

Snow White

Now Purchase the French Collection Duo for only $9.95

Duo includes one 2.5 oz. (75ml.) bubble bottle each of Pink Veil and Snow White.

Item #225-BB-Duo

@ The White Choice!

Item #708-24

salon: $5.95

(24 half-blocks)

The economical solution for individual client use! Low-cost half-blocks can be disposed of after each use for proper sanitation and hygiene.

Polar Babies

(Polar Block halves)

(reg. salon value $15.90)

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR THE LOCATION OF THE STAR NAIL FULL-SERVICE DISTRIBUTOR NEAREST YOU CALL 1-877-852-STAR OR VISIT WWW.STARNAILCANADA.COM

ConsumerTRENDS onsumerTRENDS onsumerTRENDS

Quality skin care is a priority

he current trend in many consumer markets is for clients to be as educated and informed as possible about the products they are purchasing. And things are by no means different for the tanning industry. More knowledgeable clients require more intensively devised business strategies and a stronger partnership between salon owners and staff. “We are noticing a trend toward more sophisticated tanners,” says Sunny Stinchcombe, marketing director for Supre. “We must work more closely with our salons, through our distributors, to arm them with better-performing products, more intense product knowledge, powerful promotions and more focused, enticing packaging.” In addition to their several regular salon surveys each year, Supre plans to utilize its upcoming websites to gain more salon feedback. “Salons have the answers we need to better plan our products, our advertising and our programs.” According to Stinchcombe, tanners are becoming especially aware of the need for high-quality skin care in their tanning products, and they are willing to pay for it. NEW TANSIUM BRAND FOCUSES ON HIGH-QUALITY SKIN CARE Armed with this knowledge, Supre is launching their brand-new Tansium brand in 2007. “We believe we have created the most powerful brand available in the industry today, utilizing the most up-to-date ingredients in tanning and skin care technology,” says John Alexander, vice-president, Supre. Tansium includes two formulas for body tanning and two for facial tanning: Pro-Active Body Tanning System, Pro-Active Facial Tanning System, Pro-Active Body Bronzing System and Pro-Active Facial Bronzing System. In the body tanning products, elite, ultra-dark tan maximizers and melanin synthesis intensifiers combined with Oxygen Conversion Technology provide the precise elements for achieving and sustaining the deepest and darkest colour attainable, while 12 principal minerals, 18 amino acids, and six essential vitamins act as proactive age-defying skin care components, exclusively blended to infuse moisture and nutrients vital to skin’s health.–TC

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

HAIR COLIN MCANDREW AND JENNY BOUCHER, MEDUSA, EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND PHOTO MARTIN MATEJICEK PRODUCT PHOTOS COURTESY SUPRE

TANNING

YLIST T S R I OF A H

CONT ESSA NO W BO

ARDIN

R E YEA AWAR TH

CANADIA E N TH

C A N A D A

FOR T G ICKET S CAL 416.8 L 69.31 EXT. 1 3 1 08

51¢

0.05

FRAN

AU S

1 24/ 1200

206 s P POS

D I A

TAG

BRASI

A I Y KENN

L • CO

RREIO

GLOBAL BEAUTY

E R E H T E B

November 12, 2006 at Metro Toronto Convention Centre,

acular t c e p s t s o for the m nada’s beauty a show in C ustry! ind

South Building

TICKETS ON SALE

the ement as it c x e e h take Feel t stage to e h t it h winners ds. top awar e h t e m o h

Call 416.869.3131 EXT. 108

See page 12 for details on the early booking prize draw

$140 + GST Before October 19 $155 + GST Before November 2 $180 + GST until event night

HOTEL INFORMATION SHERATON HOTEL

HOLIDAY INN ON KING

INTERCONTINENTAL TORONTO CENTRE

123 Queen St. W. T 888.627.7175 Contessa Rate: $169.00 Code: Salon

370 King St. W. T 800.263.6364 Contessa Rate: $169.00 Code: Salon/JQ3ER

225 Front St. W. T 800.422.7969 Contessa Rate: $169.00 Code: Salon

gold sponsors

silver sponsors

Photos Contessa 17, From Top Hair Suzanne Martin Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Hair Adriana Balea Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Nails Jessica-Marie Ellison Makeup Georgia Spyra Photo Babak; Hair and Makeup Rasa Jurenas Photo Paula Tizzard; Hair Hollie Kendall Makeup Giancarlo Intini Body Art Rob McDonald Photo Babak; Hair Adriana Balea Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Hair and Makeup Rasa Jurenas Photo Paula Tizzard

PROFILE

Parachute Woman UK-born stylist Lorraine Wilkins soars in

S “Turning a bad-hair day into a good-hair day is my goal.”

By Kim Hughes

he has won a tidy pile of awards in competitions, operated her own salon for a decade, met and connected with her idol, Vidal Sassoon, dreams of one day running her own academy, and consistently manages to deliver her 12-year-old son to baseball games on time. Yet arguably the most impressive thing about Lorraine Wilkins—owner and operator of Enviro Trends salon, Contessa finalist, two-time NAHA winner and super-smart cookie—is that she traded fashion-forward England for small-town St. Thomas, Ontario (population 35,000), on a whim and a prayer and actually made a go of it. Talk about truth being stranger than fiction. Picture this: it’s 1987 and Wilkins, then 25 and glancing wanly beyond dreary Midlands England (the village of Great Wyrley, to be precise), happens upon two intriguing help wanted ads in Salon International. One job is on a cruise ship. The other in faraway and mysterious Canada…. “I’d never been there before and had no clue, but this guy in St. Thomas was advertising for a British stylist, and it seemed like a good option. So he sponsored me, and I came by myself. My mother didn’t speak to me for a month,” Wilkins chuckles. “She said, ‘I know you’re bored, but can’t you just go to another city in England?’” Britain’s loss was Ontario’s gain. Still, few could have predicted the achievements that were to follow, Wilkins included. Last July, she bagged the North American Hairstyling Award for Makeover Stylist, while Enviro Trends scored Salon Team of the Year. It was at the gala last July that Wilkins met Sassoon, her “inspiration forever. It was a great moment, and it’s because of him that I’m doing this now.” Though Wilkins clearly has a mind for the more mundane aspects of managing a business, she admits preparing for and entering contests serves as a magic elixir to her more creative impulses. “I’m really big on service and making clients feel very special when they’re in the chair,” she says during a mid-week break from work. “Turning a bad-hair day into a good-hair day is my goal. And reconciling that with the most dramatic aspects of working in competitions is what takes me out of my zone. “That kind of left-brain, right-brain thing is most exciting. I think if you just stand behind the chair and do client after client day after day, you can’t be fully complete. At least I can’t. This is a great little city I live in, but I need to escape from time to time and explore what else is going on in the world. That way I can come back inspired and be a great stylist for my clients. Creating something for competitions is such a buzz, and you’re working with a whole team and everyone has got that lift. “I love cutting, and if I had to choose between cutting and colouring I’d choose cutting,” she adds. “But colour really inspires me. If somebody else has an idea with a colour and I have an idea with a cut, I’m really off on that. My girls (at Enviro Trends, which operates both as a salon and retail space) are awesome colourists. “I’ll grant that it often seems the wildest submissions in competitions come from the seemingly least likely places. I still travel back and forth a lot to London, so my inspiration in part comes from there. I’ve always been very passionate about fashion and the industry and what’s going on. So hopefully I’ve brought some of that influence to the town.” S 21.10.06

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

THIS PAGE: WILKINS BY PAULA TIZZARD OPPOSITE PAGE: HAIR LORRAINE WILKINS PHOTOS PAULA TIZZARD

small-town Canada

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

PULSE

RAISING THE

ROOF W

Newfoundland’s Kevin O’Regan is rock solid in getting it done By Stephen Puddister

ith 50 years of business experience behind him, Kevin O’Regan Sr.’s passion hasn’t dwindled. As with the Atlantic tides, there is an ebb and flow to his priorities of running the successful O’Regan Agencies distributorship in Newfoundland. They may shift daily, but his commitments don’t, and he keeps his eye on the ball. “I just got out of the hospital at 1 pm today and I was at the office at 1:45—the desk is piled two feet high,” he says over the phone from his office at 4:30 on a Friday afternoon. “I am very lucky to have two of my children running the business with me these days,” he adds. His son Kevin and daughter Brenda work side-by-side with their father. “We have never had a fight since they started with me,” he chuckles gratefully for what he refers to as his “best friends.” Business aside, what O’Regan has helped accomplish in the past few years for another passion is no small feat. “Thanks to his unrelenting efforts, the Elaine Dobbin Centre for Autism at Shamrock Farm in St. John’s officially opened on June 8 this year,” says Joyce Churchill, president of the Autism Society of Newfoundland and Labrador. “The facility offers day programming for individuals of all ages. Training will be offered to those working with people with autism, including family members. At the centre, we will offer assistance with communication, socialization, life skills and vocational programs,” she adds. O’Regan initially became involved with the society in 1990 when a

salon > october 06

Opening of the Elaine Dobbin Centre for Autism

friend told him of the challenges of finding a meeting place for a family support group. O’Regan found them a place, and some years later they spoke again about the lack of programs and services for children, youth and adults with autism, a universal problem not unique to Newfoundland. O’Regan jumped on the bandwagon and got his Rotary Club to take on a fundraising project to get seed money to help build their own facility in the future. “Armed with that first $60,000 we set a fundraising goal of $1.5 million. We met that in the fall of 2005. Then business owner Craig Dobbin gave us a check for half a million dollars, so we have a brand new $1.75 million facility and money in the bank,” says Churchill, giving much credit to O’Regan for his tenacious spirit in raising many thousands of dollars over the years. “Every time I sat in a bar with someone, I asked them for money for the Autism Society,” says a no-nonsense O’Regan. “You can’t get it if you don’t ask for it. The ABA donated $ 10,000 to the cause when they held their conference here in June—an annual initiative of giving to a cause in the community where they hold their conferences. And I have gotten at least $50,000 from individuals and manufacturers in the beauty industry over the years.” “What makes the story most interesting,” says the junior Kevin O’Regan, “is that about two and a half years after committing to help this group, my nephew Michael Lamond was diagnosed with autism at 18 months old.” S

O’REGAN FAMILY BY ROBERT YOUNG, CELEBRITY PHOTO STUDIO

The O’Regan family on the company’s 50th anniversary

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

September - October 2006 Promotions Presto Instant Hair Removal Strips

Unleash the Power of Papaya Papaya-Green Tea Environmental Hand Protection Hand Lotion heals, soothes and calms the skin from the damages of the sun and the environment.

Now purchase an 8 oz. Papaya-Green Tea Environmental Hand Protection Lotion and receive a 1 oz. purse size FREE! Item #3030-Deal Salon $7.95

Sea Fizz Effervescent Sanitizing Soak

Organic Resin Wax Strips are quick, easy and ready to use for instant hair removal Cuccios Presto Instant Hair Removal Wax Strips with Organic Resins are the fast, easy and cost-effective way to remove unwanted hair. Can be used for fingers, hands, eyebrow, face, bikini, legs, back and chest. No muss or fuss, Presto prewaxed strips simply press on and pull off. Package contains 34 wax strips in 3 different sizes.

��

Item #3033 Salon $4.95

Exfoliate with Mango Purchase a 32 oz.

Mango Peel and receive an 8 oz. Mango Peel FREE!

Purchase a 100 count Sea Fizz Sanitizing Soak and get a 24 count FREE!

Cuccio’s Mango Peel gently exfoliates by lifting dead cells from the skin’s surface creating a healthy, radiant appearance. Mango Alpha Hydroxy Acid, Seaweed Crystals and JoJoba beads makes this rich complex ideal use on hands, feet and body. Treat yourself or your clients to a Mango Peel today.

Sea Fizz Effervescent Soak • sanitizes & whitens nails • softens & conditions cuticles and skin • replenishes moisture • contains a rich blend of sea weed, jojoba oil, lemon oil and ylang ylang

Item #3021-Deal Salon $34.95 (free value $9.95)

Special Price $4.95 (reg. $6.50)

Just drop a single ball into warm water for a relaxing aromatherapy soak that will soothe the senses.

Enhancing the Scentual Spa Experience

Item #3023-Promo Salon $31.95 (free value $9.95)

800.661.9997

™ Property of 407245 Alberta Ltd.

INTERIORS

Capital AFFAIRS ADDRESS 1125 Bank Street, Ottawa OWNER Elee Hitti OPENED April 2004 SIZE 3,500 square feet NUMBER OF STAFF 16 BREAKDOWN 12 cutting stations, 8 colour chairs, 3 pedicure chairs, 2 manicure tables, 3 treatment rooms, a VIP room, stand-up tanning room, a Vichy shower, a fashion and accessories boutique INTERIOR DESIGNER Elee Hitti, Sylvain Emond RETAIL HAIR Aveda RETAIL SPA Aveda and OPI Nails COLOUR Schwarzkopf Professional BOUTIQUE DESIGNS Imported clothing, accessories, evening wear from Paris, Milan, Brussels and Lebanon PHONE 613.733.8010 HOURS OF OPERATION Tuesdays/Wednesdays 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursdays/Fridays 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturdays 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sundays bridal parties only WEBSITE www.eleesalonspa.com

salon > october 06

Ottawa’s Elee Salon and Spa

hen 35-year-old Elee Hitti, owner Elee Salon & Spa, decided it was time to fly solo, he consulted with designer Sylvain Emond to turn his dream into reality. Located in the posh neighbourhood of Old Ottawa South, Elee Salon & Spa is on Bank Street, the city’s premier shopping area, with many small boutiques and restaurants. Hitti has already attracted a number of Canada’s most prominent women, whom he prefers remain anonymous. Originally from Lebanon, Hitti credits his success to hard work. “I spent 12-to-16-hour days working in salons, because from a young age there was no doubt I’d own my business.” While some owners may think their salon’s design is the biggest hurdle, Hitti laughs, admitting his first challenge was figuring out what furniture to buy. Elee Salon & Spa’s chairs have seats filled with gel rather than foam. “It provides more than just comfort—every curve of the body relaxes.” And don’t be surprised to find clients asleep at the shampoo station as they forget the day’s stress in a bed-like recliner with feet propped up. Other features include full-length mirrors with built-in shelves on the side to store equipment

by Colette Wright and products. “It allows for a clean and clutterfree salon, because when clients deserve our full attention.” But attached to each mirror are five shelves that jut out. “We can display products that are either new or on promotion and it’s a great way to suggestion sell,” adds Hitti. One of the unique features of Elee Salon & Spa is Hitti’s boutique of original European designs and fashions. “Everything from purses to evening wear to jewellery is available for clients to browse and try on.” Sales from the boutique generate about 25 per cent of his total profit. Complementing the large amount of natural light in the building are soft colours such as blue-greys, yellows and beiges. The furniture’s earthy tones add to the soothing ambience. “It’s like walking into New York and Milan at the same time,” says Hitti. Hitti is known for his popularity with brides, so the “updo king” has a special 10by10 glass-walled VIP room separate from the cutting area. He says it’s perfect for consulting with brides or other clients who request a oneon-one appointment. “Competition is fierce, so anything we do or decide at Elee Salon & Spa is solely for our clients”. S

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTOS ALEX LEGAULT

NAME Elee Salon & Spa

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

HOT PRODUCTS

HOTPICKS

by Malumir R. Beavis

1 2

ACTIVE DURABILITY Lakmé presents k_straight professional straightening and k.wave professional waving systems. Designed for perm-neutralizing processes and straightening systems, these products leave hair three times stronger. Proteins absorbed into the cortex raise the moisture level, and silicones fortify and lubricate the cuticle. For more info visit www.lakme.com

salon > october 06

ORGANIC DESIGN Nisim introduces Kerté styling spray and gel, both made with organic ingredients. These stylers are enriched with moisturizers, sunscreens and a blend of natural extracts, proteins and amino acids to repair damaged hair and split ends. The styling spray provides a flexible hold, and the gel gives a firm hold without flakiness. For more info visit www.kerte.ca

TRI TO ADAPT The Institute of Trichology presents the Structural Balance line, a selfadjusting hair care system. Positively charged and sulfate-free, these products contain proteins that adhere to weak areas, moisture that clings to dehydrated spots, and nutrients that zero in on fragile points. For more info visit www.trihaircare.com

DOUBLE DUTY L’Oréal Professionnel’s Vitamino Color and Lumino Contrast system takes colour care to a new level. Formulated for highlighted hair, Lumino Contrast’s positively charged ions target sensitized and negatively charged zones of hair. This way, highlights attract the conditioning they need, and non-lightened pieces aren’t weighed down. For more info visit www. lorealprofessionnel.com

FINISHING LUXE To achieve luxurious shine and colour protection, put PureOlogy’s NanoWorks ShineLuxe finishing polish to work. The AntiFade complex prolongs the vibrancy of colour, while vegetable proteins and antioxidants rejuvenate and strengthen hair. DryShine technology smoothes the cuticle without greasiness, leaving hair robust and glistening. For more info visit www.pureology.com

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTOS JESSICA LIN

HOT PRODUCTS

6 10

ARTFUL SCULPTOR Armed with the Keratin Healing System, L’ANZA’s new Art Elements styling products, Polyester and Taffy, provide protection from UV rays and heat trauma caused by styling tools while preventing colour fading. Taffy manipulates, twists and sculpts hair into a movable landscape of form and contour. Polyester adds texture, gleam and resilient yet touchable movement. For more info visit www.lanza.com

CITY SLICKER LCN introduces four fabulous new shades in the Naughty In New York fall polish collection. Whether fingertips are adorned with sparkling Silver Stardust, vivid Mystic Magenta, shimmering Cosmopolitan Me pink or rubyinspired Let’s Make Out, these polishes create nails that are party-perfect and ready to go. For more info visit www.lcn.ca

FALL HARVEST Reap the benefits of Back to Basic’s Apple Ginseng volumizing shampoo and conditioner. Working together to saturate thin, fine hair with maximum body and movement, this duo contains vitamin B5 and weightless conditioners to thicken each strand. The result is full, buoyant hair. A delicious aroma of spicy apples engages the senses. For more info visit www.backtobasics.com

IN ALL FAIRNESS Banish brassiness in lightertoned hair with Joico’s Color Endure Violet shampoo and conditioner which maintain the intensity and tone of cool blonde and grey hair. Broad-spectrum ultraviolet protectants work with greentea-derived antioxidants to prevent yellowing and fading. Locks stay hydrated and nourished with low-weight and -size proteins. For more info visit www.joico.com

CONSERVE AND PROTECT Strengthen and repair hair with the new Color Conserve strengthening treatment from Aveda. Specially designed for coloured hair, this treatment seals colour and protects against UV rays with natural protectors found in wintergreen, cinnamon bark and sea buckthorn extract. Morikue protein found in Peru strengthens the cuticle, while macadamia nut and sunflower oils produce reflective sheen. For more info visit www.aveda.com

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Permanent Make-up Training Academy

• Cosmetic tattooing training courses • 5 Day academic program • Four instruc tors to eight students • Produc t pack ages • M odels supplied for all procedures by school • Computerized tattoo equipment • Preferred rates at partnership hotels for fly-in students

Micro-Pigmentation Centre, Inc. 905 625 5155 888 737 6268 MicroPigmentationCentre.com info@MicroPigmentationCentre.com

EVENTS OCTOBER 2006 ABA CALGARY October 1 — 2 Calgary Exhibition & Stampede Park, Calgary, AB Info: www.abacanada.com

INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS, COSMETICS & SPA CONFERENCE October 7 — 9 Orlando/Orange County Convention Center Orlando, FL Center, Info: www.iecsc.com

ESTHÉTIQUE SPA INTERNATIONAL MONTRÉAL October 1 — 2 Montréal Convention Centre, Montréal, QC Info: www.spa-show.com

SALON INTERNATIONAL October 14 — 16 ExCel Docklands London, UK Info: www.salonexhibitions.co.uk

HAIR CLASSES L’ORÉAL PRESENTS: Colour on Colour October 2, Montréal, QC Made to Measure Blonde, October 2, Québec City, QC Made to Measure Blonde, October 2, St. Lambert, QC; Colour Change, October 16,Burlington, ON

Colour Change, October 16, Montréal, QC; Colour Change October 16, Québec City, QC Colour Specialist Degree October 16, Toronto, ON; Keys to Colour Colour, October 16, Toronto, ON; Colour Change, October 23, St. Lambert, QC; Creative Cut and Colour Colour, October 30, St. Lambert, QC. Info: 800.361.1861

ABA MONCTON October 22 — 23 Coliseum Agrena Complex, Moncton, NB Info: www.abacanada.com ITA INDOOR TANNING WORLD EXPO October 26 — 29 Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center Center, Nashville, TN Info: www.theita.com

SCHWARZKOPF PRESENTS: Master Class, October 1, Calgary, AB Colour Complete October 2 — 6, Mississauga, ON The Law of Colour, October 10, Mississauga, ON; Hi-Lighting Techniques October 13, Edmonton, AB Long Hair Styling, October 16, Mississauga, ON; Long Hair Styling,

October 17, Mississauga, ON; Jie Matar October 23, Mississauga, ON; Matar, Info: 800.463.3081 GOLDWELL PRESENTS: Elumen Un-Edited October 1 — 2, Toronto, ON; Textural Cutting Techniques & Trends, October 2, Vancouver, BC; Trilogy, Trilogy October 2 — 3, Vancouver, BC; Trilogy, Trilogy October 15 — 16, Toronto, ON; Colour Masters, October 15 — 17, Toronto, ON; Haircolour Boot Camp, October 22. Info: 800.663.9222 KMS PRESENTS: KMS Studio Series, October 2, Toronto, ON; Women’s Cutting Foundations, October 16 — 17, Vancouver, BC; Profit or Perish, October 23, Vancouver, BC Profit or Perish, October 30 Toronto, ON. Info: 877.670.6767

��

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

ISO PRESENTS: Master Colour October 5 — 6, Calgary, AB Curls for Christmas October 6, Edmonton, AB. Info: 800.661.8675 TIGI PRESENTS: Techniques October 27 — 28, Calgary, AB. Info: 800.661.8675 CHI PRESENTS: Colour Confidence October 13, Burnaby, BC; Transformation October 20, Calgary, AB. Info: 800.661.8675 GREAT LENGTHS PRESENTS: Regional Training Seminar October 15 — 16, Vancouver, BC; Regional Training Seminar October 29 — 30, Toronto, BC. Info: 800.461.9302

URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS PRESENTS: Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions, In-salon classes also available Info: 866.731.4327

Discover Aveda Hair Care, October 2, Saskatoon, SK. Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

MATRIX PRESENTS: Him, October 4, Toronto, ON; Look It Over Trend Collection, October 15 — 16, Toronto, ON; All Dressed Up, October 17 — 18, Toronto, ON; C.R.A.F.T. Colour October 19, Toronto, ON; Retail Riches, October 23 — 24, Toronto, ON. Info: 888.422.6879

LCN PRESENTS: Introductory Makeup October 4 — 5, Edmonton, AB; PMC Permanent Makeup October 31 — November 3, Edmonton, AB.Info: 888.422.6677

AVEDA PRESENTS: Aveda Behind the Scenes October 1, Saskatoon, SK Aveda Collection Cut October 1, Toronto, ON Full Spectrum Systems & Solutions October 1, Ottawa, ON; Full Spectrum Solutions & Hair Colouring Techniques, October 2, Ottawa, ON

Program, starts monthly, Sherwood Park, AB. Info: 800.352.4383

ESTHETICS CLASSES

INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY OF ESTHETICS PRESENTS: One Week Laser Practitioner

NAILS CLASSES CAN-WEST PRESENTS: Nails 101, November 5, 19, 26, December 3, 10, location TBA;

Manicure 1 Day Class, October 2, location TBA. Info: 888.335.5400 ESTHETICS PLUS PRESENTS: Level I Artificial Nails October 12 — 13, 26 — 27 November 9, Edmonton, AB; Level II Nails/Sculpting, October 18, Edmonton, AB; Pedicure October 14 — 15, 28, Edmonton, AB. Info: 888.422.6677 STAR NAIL PRESENTS: Ongoing Educational Programs, location TBA. Info: 800.661.9997 NORTH AMERICAN SCHOOL OF PODOLOGY PRESENTS: Level 1 – Advanced Pedicure C-POD Program, October 1 — 4, London, ON; Level 2 – Infection Control, October 30, Oakville, ON; Level 4 – Advanced Skin & Nail Disorders & Diseases, October 22 — 23, Toronto, ON. Info: 416.742.4319

� � � � � � � � �

��

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

��

� ��

��

october 06 < salon

SCOOP

SACO LIVE

SEXY GUY

Radiant Beauty and Schwarzkopf Professional present Saco live October 29, 2006 at the Art Gallery of Hamilton, Hamilton, Ontario. For more info and tickets, call 14.10.06 866.220.6127.

Sexy Hair Concepts recently announced the appointment of Jim Morrison as the company’s new a CEO. For more information on Sexy Hair products visit www.sexyhair.com or call 800.848.3383.

JET SETTER

FASHIONISTA

Spanish hair company Lakmé Cosmetics has announced that Jet City Beauty is new exclusive importer and distributor in Ontario. For more info call 800.461.7361.

Vivienne Mackinder, international hairstyling guru, will be a guest speaker at this year’s Fashion Focus. Presented by BSG, Fashion Focus will take place at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre on November 5, 2006. To register call 888.241.3330.

��

www.hair�brain.com 84

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

BSG NEWS

Beauty Babies Congratulations to all the new moms and dads in the beauty biz! Here are some proud parents with their little cuties.

Fran Bigelow has been appointed director of sales, Ontario division, for BSG. Venus Beauty Supplies’ Vince Riverso with daughter Sara Nicole

A NEW MAN Mario Argenti has been named president and CEO of KPSS Inc, distributors of Goldwell and KMS California brands.

An Artist’s Brush Hugo Boisvert, VP and general manager of Matrix Canada, with his newborn baby Bora. Trish Molloy from the Head Room in St. John’s, Nfld., and baby Kathleen Fei Molloy Flynn

Baby Antonia, daughter of Jessica Ellison, educator at the Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics and award-winning nail technician.

Michael Victor, owner of Delineation Hair & Skin Essentials, has unmasked a hidden talent for invention—he has recently designed and launched a new brush intended to help stylists with carpal tunnel syndrome. The hair brush is distributed through Toronto Barber & Beauty Supply. Call 800.387.2962 for more info.

��

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

PRESS PASS

WHO DONE IT?

It was a night of mystery and celebration on July 27 when Schwarzkopf Professional took their entire team and all their Technical Advisors from across Canada out on Lake Ontario for a Murder Mystery Boat Cruise after their week-long Technical Advisors summer conference. 4

1. Monica Dejong and Carlos Suarez 2. Jie Matar with model, Yasmin Warsame (L), and their actress friend 3. Annie Poissant and Chantelle LaPrairie 4. (L-R) Gerd Schwarzkopf, George Broder, Marianne Medeiros and Frank Bruno 5. Becky Kooting and Susan Boccia 6. (L-R) Terri Schwendemann, Tawnya Hallman and Robert Barbosa 7. (L-R) Tina Christopoulos, Francine Tessier-Lauze, Annie Poissant, Jie Matar Matar, Steve Montminy, Caroline Fontaine, Eric Maheu, Stephanie LaFleche, Nathalie Pelletier

��

�� 86

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

1 2

ABA ON THE ROCK

Amidst some of Newfoundland’s finest hospitality and scenery, the Allied Beauty Association convened for its Annual General Meeting in St. John’s in June. It was three days of meetings, seminars and breakout sessions as well as reports on the success of the ABA cross-country show circuit.

1. (L-R) Doris Tan from International Beauty Services, L’Oréal’s Shelley Murphy and husband Peter, L’Oréal’s Minter Dial, Redken’s Doriane Dalati and Obsco’s Steven Murphy. 2. Professional Beauty’s Helen and Ken Hooper and Mont Ransome.3. (L-R) ABA’s Marc Speir with TLC Sales’ Al Peters and Leslie Love 4. Piidea Canada’s Maria Martins (L) and Mike Miller (R) with spouses Jamie Martins and Laurie Miller 5. Dale Abbott (L) from Hair Factory Salon with Rhonda Skanes from East Coast Beauty 6. L-R LCN Canada’s Inge Hatheway, ABA President Art Erickson and wife Marg and guest speaker and facilitator Lori Colborne.

I N T E R N AT I O N A L B E AU T Y S E R V I C E S

The Best in Education & Service

Hair Care • Alterna • Artec • L’Oréal Professionnel • Nexxus • Tressa • Matrix (N. Alta)

Skin Care & Cosmetics • Bioelements • DermaNew • Bodyography Salon • Intaglio Furnishing • St Tropez • Global Specialty • Orbit • Kasho • Kiela • Promedis • Secret Strands Extensions

Nail & Foot Care • Allpresan • EzFlow • Gehwol • Nail Tek • OPI • SpaRitual

Electricals • Andis • BaByliss • Dannyco • Ecstasy • Isinis • Oster • T3 • Wahl

ALBERTA SASKATCHEWAN MANITOBA 11348 - 142 Street 2623A Faithfull Avenue 1644 St James Street Edmonton Winnipeg Saskatoon (780) 454-3388 (204) 783-8878 (306) 343-3398 Photo Courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

11 Stores to Serve You • Order Desk 1-800-642-3818 october 06 < salon

PRESS PASS

JPMS SIGNATURE GATHERING 2006 Over 1,500 hairstylists attended John Paul Mitchell’s Signature Gathering 2006, held at the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas from July 30 to August 2. From educational symposiums to breathtaking runway presentations, the event gave stylists the opportunity to expand their techniques, business skills and imaginations.

1 2

1. John Paul Dejoria 2. Robert Cromeans 3. (L-R) Corinne Spitznagel, Tracy Druar, Cathy Lewis, Christine Gatherum and Jamie Ekdahl 4. Linda Yodice 5. Scott Cole 6. (L-R) Mona Roy, Pierre Hetu, Carole Pelletier, Lori and Randy Selinger, Mario Turcotte and Vincent Gagnon 3

��

� �� 5 4

��

�� 88

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

��

OOCH-A-THON ▼ In the process of helping shave the heads of students and teachers, Exit Salon’s James Ellis decided to shave his own as well to support the York School’s annual Ooch-a-thon, a fundraiser that helps send kids and youth with cancer to Camp Oochigeas. Ellis’s clients raised more than $3,500 for the cause. 1. Exit co-owner Roberto Pizuti, a hair colourist, came out of a 10-year cutting retirement to shave Ellis’s head. 2. James Ellis shaving grade 10 student Louis Winston’s hair. 1

��

�� w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

PRESS PASS

STYLIN PARTY Redken Canada and Alternative Beauty Services threw a party at the new Redken Exchange on July 31 to introduce the stylists from around the GTA to latest innovations in the Redken Styling line. In an environment resembling a nightclub, the demonstrations were performed 2 with precision and finesse. 1. Sean Goddard (back row L) and Jamie-Lynn Chapman (glasses) of Redken with models 2. (L-R) Redken’s Christopher Kalec, L’Oréal’s VP Bernard Nassif, Michelle Kooy from Redken, Roberto Pizuti from Exit Salon, Redken VP Doriane Dalati 3. (L-R) Marie-Pierre Morin, Janine Roantree, Al Barillas and Doris Holinay from Alternative Beauty 4. Summer and Steve from Ego Salon in Brampton 5. Alternative Beauty’s Laurie Wells, Simon Smithyman, Ange Judge and Marion Morrison from Simon’s Salon in Woodstock 6. Tony Marinaccio (L) and Sean Coyle of Alternative Beauty with Stracey Burtch from Lift salon 7. (L-R)Pino and Rico Hair Salon’s Pino Correale, Lena Cerullo, Jill Everett and Andrea Steen 8. Redken stylist Takatoshi Ozawa works on model

●��

●�� ●�� ●��

�� ●��

��

�� ●�� ● ��

●

��

●��

�� 90

salon > october 06

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

��

3 4

��

�� 7

ANGEL HAIR FOR KIDS ▼

��

The Child’s Voice Foundation is a non-profit organization dedicated to supporting and enhancing the physical and emotional well-being of children in need. Their Angel Hair for Kids program provides wigs, made with human hair donations, for kids who have lost their hair due to medical reason. For information go to www. achildsvoicefoundation.com

��

1. In Toronto, Ray Civello cuts Collega for Aveda employee June Son’s donation

��

2. In St. John’s Newfoundland, Duane Reid of Icons Salon prepares two ponytail locks of RCMP Constable Karen Zytynsky’s hair for the same cause.

��

�� w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 06 < salon

Marketplace

Your guide to products and services for professional salons

��

� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

��

Safety & Security Wherever You Are Our “Beauty All” program offers: Extensive Coverage Professional Services Industry Knowledge Individualized Solutions

��

We specialize in: Aesthetics Electrolysis Lazer Hair Removal Spider Vein Removal Hairdressing All other beauty treatment Call today for a no obligation Insurance Review & Quotation.

��

salon > october 06

Nacora Insurance Brokers Ltd. 6451 Northwest Drive, Mississauga, ON Phone: (905) 405-8827 ext:575 Fax: (905) 677-6380 Toll Free: 1-800-761-4938 Email:info.canada@nacora.com Website: www.nacora.com

��

� ��

��

Customized, affordable liability insurance for hair salons, in-home salons, spas and estheticians COVERAGE NOW: AVAILABLE FOR

Laser Hair Removal Services

We also cover a wide range of other beauty services including: electrolysis, tanning, reflexology, waxing, microdermabrasion, permanent make-up, aromatherapy, lash tinting, ear piercing... Apply on-line at www.protique.ca

It’s your business. PROtique it! Provided Exclusively By:

Pages 70-71

Call HS Financial, toll free at: 1-800-411-7979 (Toronto 905-727-4605) w w w.. p r o t i q u e . c a

Underwritten by ING Insurance Company of Canada

��

�� GOLDBERG CENTRE FOR VISION CORRECTION & COSMETIC SURGERY

��

�� october 06 < salon

Classifieds

��

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 15 Issue 14

��

salon > october 06

�� Calgary — Head Office

Tel: 403-243-0464 fx: 403-243-0465 Toll Free: 1-800-420-4676

#7 4412 Manilla Rd. SE Calgary, AB T2G 4B7

��

Read about anti-aging, � cosmetic enhancement �� and wellness ��

��

� � � � � � � ANTI-AG

��

ING

●

ENHANC

EMENT

●

AUTUMN

TO CALL US FREE R FO IT! QUALIFY IN W OPIES. IONAL Csh face PROMOT re 1r3 f-3 all o f1 r 416-869 mf akeove 2 EXT 11

m reduce, fir

��

stories, inspiring

��

�

support

��

IAL CER SfiPghEt,C N A C T S at A BRE 23 pages of foods th& shopping ��

��

2006

e Lose thosth, o o sm lines & fix

��

WELLNESS

��

❏��

��

❏�� ❏��❏��

��

❏��❏��

��

�� october 06 < salon

THE LAST WORD

THINGS THAT GO BUMP IN THE NIGHT

magine yourself a young adult, experiencing Halloween for the very first time. Now you know how I felt in 1967, just five months after crossing the briny ocean and coming to Canada. My goodness me (as they say back home in England), I loved the opportunity for both male and female hairdressers to dress up with reckless abandon. When I later opened the Rainbow Room in 1977 we went really crazy for our first Halloween. Nothing succeeds like excess, so we decorated the salon from top to bottom. Everyone got into the spirit of things. We had a deceased bride, a six-month-old baby and lots of male-female crossgender identity swaps. We loved it and the clients loved it, so it became a tradition I still carry on. As well as having a good laugh and getting really creative, it’s an excellent time for team-building and good old-fashioned camaraderie. After work we go out together to a house party or a night on the town. One year I really pressured my co-workers to show up in costume, but I’d been working so hard I completely forgot about my own. The night before Halloween we bleached half my hair blonde and the other half red. I showed up next day as a colour chart. Another winner is putting all the staff’s names into a hat for a draw. Whichever name a person picks, they have to impersonate her or him in their way of dress and mannerisms. Good fun. Halloween got its origins way back when. About 2,000 years ago, the Irish Celts had a festival called Samhain (pronounced “sow-in”). From sundown on October 31 to sunup on November 1, their New Year’s Day, they believed the dead returned to visit the mortal world. This was a time for predicting the future, making sacrifices on bonfires to appease Celtic deities and dressing up in costumes usually made from animal heads and skins. (Don’t try this at home.)

salon > october 06

And if, like me, you’ve ever wondered how bobbing for apples came about, it’s probably a cross-cultural thing. The Romans came along in the first century and shocked and awed the Celts into submission. Apples symbolized Pomona, the Roman goddess of fruit and trees. Coincidentally, the Druids (the Celtic priests) regarded apples as sacred. The Roman festival to honour Pomona was incorporated into Samhain, and everyone was happy. In the seventh century, the church sanctified November 1 by naming it All Saints’ Day, also known as All-hallows or All-hallowmass. The original pagan idea of dressing as spirits of the dead was modified to wearing a costume representing a saint. And young men went door-to-door, begging for food for the poor. Instead of Samhain, the night before became known as All-hallows Eve, and then Hallowe’en. The seemingly innocuous Halloween pumpkin lanterns have a pretty spooky origin. Apparently, Scottish Celts placed skulls on poles round encampments to scare away evil spirits. In time, carved turnip lanterns replaced this gruesome tradition. Thank goodness for that. By the end of the 19th century, children had pretty much taken over the celebration of Halloween in Scotland. Like today’s trick-or-treaters, they dressed up and went “guising.” Only these children had to perform a poem, a song or tell a joke before receiving their nuts, apples or sweeties (candies). Occasionally, if no treats were forthcoming, slates might be placed over a house’s chimney pots, filling the rooms with smoke, or field gates lifted off their hinges and hung from tree branches. (Don’t try this at home either!) If you’re thinking of ways to dress up and have a laugh this Halloween, here are a couple of contemporary suggestions. You could go as the Desperate Housewife Gone Mad or a Recently Deceased Fashion Model – both of which require oodles of hair product to pull off well. After all, Halloween’s a great time for… letting your hair down! S

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

by John Steinberg

��

A.I.I. China Glaze pg 55 .....................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com A.I.I. GiGi pg 63 ..................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com

❏�� ❏��

Calbrook pg 90 ..................................................866-5-CALGEL ...................... www.calbrookcanada.com

❏��

Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 81 ................888-737-6268 ........................ www.cdnmicropigmentation.com

❏��

Collega for Aveda pg 31 ....................................800-689-1066

❏��

BSG pg 85..........................................................888-241-3330 ........................ www.beauticiansbeautysystems.com

Contessa 18 pg 70-71 ......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.beautynet.com Contessa Trip Contest pg 12 .............................800-720-6665 ........................ www.beautynet.com Craze Cranberry Spa Treatment pg 86 .............877-325-7773 ........................ www.craze-esthetics.com Creative Nail Design pg 13 ...............................800-833-NAIL ....................... www.creativenaildesign.com Dennis Bernard TCA pg 79 ..............................800-541-5456 ........................ www.DennisBernard.com Essie Winter 2006 Collection pg 25 ..................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essiecosmetics.com

��

❏�� ❏��❏��

Fashion Focus 2006 pg 83 ................................1800-241-3330 ...................... www.bsgcanada.com

��

Fudge pg 23.......................................................888-383-4387 ........................ www.fudge.com

��

Great Lengths pg 27 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.hscinternational.com

��

Hair-Brain.com pg 84 ...................................................................................... www.hair-brain.com Intercosmetics pg 69 ........................................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca

❏ ��❏ ��

International Beauty Sevices pg 87 ..................800-642-3818

��

ISO i-color pg 21 ...............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca

��

Keyano Aromatics pg 82 .................................................................................. www.keyano.com

��

L’Anza Healing Haircare pg 29 ..........................800-661-1424 ........................ www.keybeautysystems.com

��

L’Oréal Professionnel pg 6-7 ............................800-361-1861 Lakme ionic k_straight pg 25 .......................................................................... www.lakme.com LCN Naughty in NY pg 48 .................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca Matrix Socolor pg 02-03 ...................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Nisim pg 89 .......................................................800-656-4746 ........................ www.nisim.com NP Group pg 65 .................................................800-267-4247 ........................ www.npgroup.ca OPI Designer Series pg 11 ................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Pivot Point Canada pg 91 ..................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca PureOlogy Serious Colour Care pg 09 ..............800-331-1502 ........................ www.pureology.com Redken 2006 Stylist Choice Awards pg 19 .......866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Redken Double Fusion pg 17 ............................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca

��

❏ �� ❏ �� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏��

Salon 52 pg 61 ...................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.beautynet.com

��

Schwarzkopf essential looks pg 04-05.............800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com

�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏��

Senscience pg 100 ............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.zotos.com Star Nail pg 67 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio pg 75 ......................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Supre Hempz pg 41...........................................800-825-7020 ........................ www.hempzhaircare.com Takara Belmont pg 37.......................................800-268-5351 ........................ www.takarabelmont.ca Thomas Baker pg 91 .........................................877-212-9322 ........................ www.thomasbaker.ca True Concepts pg 42 .........................................877-TRUE-480 ...................... www.truehairext.com Ultra Hair Care pg 26 ........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com Urban Beauty Systems pg 88 ...........................866-731-4327 ........................ www.urbanbeautysystems.com

�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏��❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏�� ❏��

Uvalux Tanning Beds pg 99 ..............................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com

��

Wahl pg 53 ........................................................866-787-9245 ........................ www.wahl.com

��

Uvalux Sunscape pg 89 .....................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com

o c t o b e r 0 6 < s a l o n

New Beds Attract NEW CUSTOMERS

... and keeps them coming back!

Are you ready to upgrade your beds? CALL NOW before the competition beats you to it: 1-800-661-6292

“Will I get my rebates?”

Ask your Authorized Distributor or call Uvalux BEFORE you buy: 1-800-661-6292

Cash Back* and Free Advertising Allowance* only available from Uvalux Authorized Distributors.

L VA

U A K LE AIL A Y AS W S AV O D 292 LO TE T 61-6 RA L L 0-6 C A -80 1 BL

*some conditions and limits apply. Limited time offer.

Visit our showroom: 1-800-661-6292 • www.uvalux.com • sales@uvalux.com • Toronto 905-881-9046 Montreal 877-660-6292 • Calgary 403-274-1532 • Vancouver 604 240 3516 • Woodstock Support Centre 519-421-1212

Uvalux International Inc.

DANGER. Ultraviolet Radiation. Overexposure causes skin and eye burns.Use protective eyewear. Follow instructions.Drugs and cosmetics may increase UV effects.UV exposure can be hazardous to your health andin the long term can contribute to premature ageingand skin cancer. UV effects are cumulative.Greater risks are associated with early and repeated exposure.

Big. Bold. Powerful.

NEW LOOK!

NEW LOOK! NEW LOOK!

“Will I get my rebates?”

Ask your Authorized Distributor or call Uvalux BEFORE you buy 1-800-661-6292 Cash Back* and Free Advertising Allowance* only available from Uvalux Authorized Distributors.

: X U

Visit our showroom: 1-800-661-6292 • www.uvalux.com • sales@uvalux.com • Toronto 905-881-9046 Montreal 1-877-660-6292 • Calgary 403-274-1532 • Vancouver 604-240-3516 • Woodstock Support Centre 519-421-1212 *some conditions and limits apply. Limited time offer.

Uvalux International Inc.

L SE E A L UV EA AB

K A Y 92 S D A W ES T O -62 LORAT L L -661 0 C A -80 1 L

AI AV

Senscience liquid luxury is an exclusive hair care collection specially formulated by Shiseido Laboratories — a perfect combination of sensuality and science that leaves hair healthy, silky soft, shiny and strong. Available worldwide only at ﬁne salons.

MONTREAL

SÃO PAULO

SYDNEY

BARCELONA

MILAN

LONDON

LOS ANGELES

TOKYO

Salon Magazine, October 2006

Articles inside

PARACHUTE WOMAN ARACHUTE WOMAN

RAISING THE ROOF

HOT PRODUCTS

SCOOP

EDITOR’S LETTER

CONTESSA 18 SEMI-FINALISTS

CAPITAL AFFAIRS

FACING FACTS ABOUT HORMONES