WO + MAN

#THELOUNGE

09 05 16

WO+MAN GENDER-FREE innovation that doesn't need to tick any box TEAR UP the Savile Row rulebook

BALANCE both masculine and feminine styling

SLICK, BOLD and unapologetic

DITCH THE SANDY BEACH FOR TWO OF EUROPE'S COOLEST CITIES

EDITOR CATHERINE PHIPPS

CONTRIBUTORS BRITTANY THORLEY CATHERINE PHIPPS SARAH ROKER SHANNON BLANKS

ALL ADVERTISING ENQUIRES TO Info@the-clothinglounge.com

ART DIRECTION & PRODUCTION GABOR KAMASZ

Editor's note Why is androgynous fashion garnering so much attention? Is it the novelty of embracing new fits and new textures? Is it discovering that changing your clothing can shift not only how others see you, but your sense of self? Or is it the respite from living in society where gender becomes your identity?

as well as unexpected challenges that can arrive for androgynous shoppers. We're diving into ubercool Scandinavia for cityscape chic to act as the perfect backdrop to these looks, wandering through the streets of Gamla Stan and lazing around Nyhavn, as well as selecting the creme de la creme of The Clothing Lounge's genderless clothing and creating a beautiful collection of outfits suitable for any occasion. Finally, we're discussing the most overlooked but most important aspect of the gender neutral aesthetic: hair and beauty. How do you style a pixie cut? We'll tell you, don't worry.

This issue focuses on the growing trend of androgynous fashion and many of the sartorial issues that surround it. We're exploring what androgyny actually is and all the different ways that it can be expressed, as well as a variety of fabulously easy ways to work elements of it into This issue breaks down gender barriers and creates your wardrobe. We're looking at menswear and its own rules. It's bold and exciting and a lot more womenswear brands all over the world that are than just wearing your boyfriend's jeans. embracing gender fluidity, the people making Catherine Phipps waves and fighting gender normative stereotypes, Editor

CONTENTS 3|6 7|8 9|10 11|14 15|16 17|18 19|22 23|26 27|28

THE LOUNGE'S CHOICE

The Androgynous look around the clock: we show you how!

BEHIND THE SCENES

Fashion's next top men's brands: Who, what, when and where

FASHION FIX

Man up!

Innovative new labels bringing menswear to a whole new audience

COVER STORY

Chic and the City: New York-inspired fashion

THE STATEMENT

How to do the boy: With MLTV

BEAUTY

Beautifully Masculine: Are you more Carey Mulligan or Tilda Swinton?

DESIGNER FOCUS

Not Equal: Androgynous, gender-fluid and very, very now

TRAVEL

Travel cool, look cool: Stockholm and Copenhagen for the urban aesthete

THE ONES TO KNOW Jessica Johnston

The Androgynous LOOK AROUND THE CLOCK

THE LOUNGE'S

ALTERNATIVELY, try this shirt and these silk blend shorts, topping off the look with these Resu Sandals by Ostel for a boyish and edgier twist.

We’re borrowing from the boys and exploring the androgynous trends that women love to wear.

It’s all about adapting masculine aspects of fashion and distinct references to menswear, before lightening it up with a feminine touch. This is a strong trend that balances both masculine and feminine styling characteristics to create handsome outfits. The Clothing Lounge has put together outfits to suit all hours and dress codes.

'THE TOMBOY'

CHOICE STYL.MYL. - HOUSE PEPLUM SHIRT £119.00

We’ve stolen this long, tailored jacket from the Men’s section of TLC and matched it with this silk tank top, a timeless piece with a lower hemline and a contrast panel. These slim fit navy trousers are a staple in every woman’s wardrobe and perfect paired with this outfit. Keep your hair simple and neat, with minimal makeup and strong brows.

MONOCHROME - COIL JACKET £380.00

NATHALIE FORDEYN - JAPANSES ROSETTE TROUSERS £165.00

EDDIE HANDMADE - VITA BRIEFCASE £487.00

DASHA STRAVINSKY -SHORTS £169.00

HOUSE OF CANNON - CONTRAST PANEL SILK TANK £140.00

MONOCHROME - Y BACKPACK £170.00

OSTEL - RESU SANDALS £123.00 AUDREY AKMAN - ADONIA RING £83.00

The Androgynous LOOK AROUND THE CLOCK

STUD GLAMOUR REIN - CUT OUT TROUSERS £420.00

THE LOUNGE'S

Comfort is a huge advantage to adopting androgynous style, so swap that skin-tight LBD for this casual poncho. It’s simple, but the colourful tassel fringing adds a feminine touch. Combine it with fitted crêpe trousers with a cut out leg detail, perfecting this outfit with a pair of strappy heels – these gorgeous sandals are hand-finished to ensure the highest level of quality and comfort. Go for dewy, fresh-faced makeup and add a blood red matte lip to complete the look.

CASUAL COOL

CHOICE

When we go casual, we go all out. Comfort is very important and this combination of a high-neck sweater and sports trousers maintains a relaxed, boyish charm, with the grey tone adding a touch of experimentation. Both are made with 100% wool, so they’re as cosy as they are fashionable.

DOMANOFF - SPORTS TROUSERS £250.00

PINK MAGNOLIA - PONCHO £208.00 MEL-LING DE BUITLEAR - PEARL DROP EARRINGS £135.00

DOMANOFF - HIGH NECK SWEATER £150.00

MEL-LING DE BUITLEAR - TRIPLE PEARL PENDANT £144.00

DE SIENA - KEISHA SANDAL £335.00

MONOCHROME - ENVELOPE POUCH CHOCO DARK BROWN £77.00

EDDIE HANDMADE - BADER MEDIUM HOLDALL BURGUNDY £420.00

BEHIND THE SCENES - BEHIND THE SCENES -

Fashion's next top men's brands

VERENA

SCHEPPERHEYN

UP! MAN MAN

Fusing the traditions of classic menswear and mo­ dern notions of masculinity, Verena Schepperheyn is producing extraordinary clothing. The Berlinbased designer launched her label after graduating with her master’s degree in Menswear from ArtEZ in the Netherlands. Schepperheyn’s collections have been shown during London Collections Men and Paris Men’s Fashion Week, all to critical acclaim and increasing media attention. Although designed with men in mind, her clothing shows a definite womenswear influence. Certain pieces, such as her neoprene jacket or her pleated shorts, would also work beautifully for women.

Schepperheyn creates luxurious, high quality pieces that are crafted with meticulous attention to detail, without the luxury price tag, and all locally manufactured in Germany. Loose, culotte-style trousers and sheer neoprene shirts, in a blush beige that hints at nudity, punctuate her clothing and she embraces bold, attention-grabbing shapes paired with embroidery and subtly graphic prints.

With a particular enthusiasm for sandstone, white and black tones, Schepperheyn’s designs intertwine minimalist and romantic design.

This is understated elegance for the modern man.

UP

MARIM

VEREN

VERENA SCHEPPERHEYN - SHORTS WITH ATTACHED ALCANTARA LINES £379.00

Gender-bending masculine clothing for the “nontraditionally masculine”. Brooklyn-based Marimacho are at the vanguard of gender fluid clothing, designing their unisex line for marginalised groups. Focusing on tailoring and a close fit, they craft traditional menswear for a more feminine figure, with narrower armholes and necklines, shorter sleeves and wider chests. Catering to women, trans men and anyone ignored by mainstream fashion, Marimacho received critical acclaim at last season’s New York fashion week.

Founders Christian González and Ivette Alé, business and life partners, named their label after the Spanish word for ‘butch’. They both understand their target market’s difficulties. Swimwear is a particularly gender normative problem, as there is no room for grey is a sea of teeny tiny bikinis and swimming trunks. Marimacho solve this with 1920s-inspired striped bathing suits that cover the chest without indicating any gender.

Marimacho may well be tearing up the Savile Row rule book, but that doesn’t stop them producing chic, beautifully fitted clothing for their masculine audience. In a time where gender fluidity is so prevalent in the fashion world, it is grounding to see a brand doing so much for people who don’t have the privilege to treat their identity as a passing fad.

MARI­ MACHO

Chic& the City

BEHIND THE SCENES AT

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JUNGWON

As city dwellers ourselves, we understand the challenges that face busy commuters and general city slickers, but very often the waterproof, windproof, wrinkle free and breathable staples we need aren’t up to scratch style-wise. With New York based brand JUNGWON stylish does indeed meet functional and designer June Sohn’s latest collection uses all the factors we love – recycled and locally produced textiles, vibrant and pastel hues, and the unisex twist that is always on trend – to create garments that are in tune with city living.

We go behind the scenes at JUNGWON to discover what inspired June’s latest collection, how NYC has shaped her design choices and what’s to come for the new kid on the block.

TCL: You’ve been living in NYC for the past decade, how has life in the city influenced the design choices that sit at the heart of your brand?

JS: Every morning I would take the subway and walk several blocks to the office, and whilst sometimes I enjoyed my commute, when the weather wasn’t friendly it could be rather troublesome, especially when staying out of the wind and the rain. The weather in NYC has been far from predictable and before starting JUNGWON I myself had been looking for a jacket or coat that I could depend on. Back then I saw many high performance outerwear options in specialty stores, but these were built for serious outdoor activities and were not suited to everyday work clothes.

As a designer working in the city, I needed a great look. I needed more than just a raincoat or windbreak. I looked for outerwear that I could wear regardless of the destination but it was so hard and my patience ran out so I started to make one for myself. I had experience as an outerwear designer for a fashion brand already, but this time it was different. I wanted to make outerwear that would protect me from wind or rain and could also be machine-washed at home. It was challenging from the beginning but very rewarding.

&

TCL: Your brand designs chic outerwear with a coveted twist, how do you strike the right balance between contemporary and classic? Are you a fan of timeless style staples yourself?

JS: Well, I think classic is always forever, yet without contemporary it would just be lame. It's kind of salt and sugar.

With my own wardrobe I aim to make it as chic and classic as I can, and the same objective inspires my collections as whilst there is a new trend in every season in every year, you want outerwear that you can rely on for years to come. We also wanted to make sure that you could wear anything under or with our jacket or coat. We added safe details very cautiously and colours were also carefully selected for easy mix and match.

TCL: Your latest collection is now available on your website – www.jungwonny.com – for anyone who hasn’t seen it yet, what can they expect?

JS: I'm into ‘layer’ at the moment, which means you can layer two jackets for when it’s cold, and if the weather does perk up drop down to a single jacket. This single jacket doesn't give you warmth, however it works when you layer two, whilst still looking slim and stylish. We’re also in the midst of designing our next line, and while I can’t reveal all just yet, you can expect the same good quality and fun with dressy, formal and edgy elements.

Chic&

the City TCL: A final word in regards to styling for the season ahead…

TCL: What response has your collection received so far from the New York fashion scene and wider international fashion community?

JS: The response locally, nationally and internationally has been great every year, and we have now expanded to the UK, where we’re swiftly gathering a huge following. Our work at numerous UK festivals last summer is certainly paying off, and a lot of celebrities have also wore our designs.

JS: Right now lace and print are everywhere, but you keep those inside.

Think clean and colourful when it comes to your outerwear – remember contemporary inside and classic outside.

THE STATEMENT The androgynous look that we are exploring in this issue is certainly illustrated in the work of MLTV. The originality of their clothing, and in particular their architectural bomber jackets explores an element of androgyny, and therefore demonstrates why the brand is so relevant and upcoming today. The brand demonstrates their journey into discovering new styles and identities, and their most recent collection is a perfect example of how they have achieved this look.

The bomber jacket is originally a men’s item of clothing and its heritage stems from within the armed forces. It’s similar to parka coats and the trench, a timeless quality and appeal that has exceeded through the years and adapted itself to recent popular fashion and culture. A piece that is well worth investing in, for a classic personal look.

MLTV - ARCHITECTURAL BOMBER JACKET £170.00

The bomber is recognised by its tight, knitted hand cuffs and waistband, it features a front zip closure, and has been reinvented and re-established countless times in various materials and detailing.

Borrowing from your man’s wardrobe is an easy deal, and this bomber is an ideal steal. Jackets have always had the ability of becoming unisex. The androgynous look, when done best, is usually a smart and edgy look. MLTV’s style of bomber is perfect, and features bold architectural panelling on the front, as well as hidden pockets on the side.

This style of jacket is perfect for the months ahead, and can be worn day or night. MLTV’s presentation of dramatic panelling is a defining point of the bomber jacket, as well as it’s nylon fabrics – a great addition to your androgynous look that can be dressed down or up to finish any summer look.

HOWBOY: MLTV

TO DO THE WITH

Traditional gender norms are on the way out. We’re seeing more gender fluidity than ever before and this season’s womenswear collections are full of masculine influences. Androgynous fashion may well be hitting the mainstream, but beauty is lagging behind. If you’re accustomed to following certain hair and make-up rules to look pretty all the time, breaking them can be incredibly intimidating. These stunning looks, however, are just the inspiration that you need. Throw out soft and girly, we want slick, bold and unapologetic.

THE PIXIE CUT It might seem like a huge step, but this is the perfect way to glide into androgynous hair, since it’s still easy to keep a softness to your look. This cut is perfect for delicate, elfin features, although be slightly cautious if your face is particularly round. It’s striking, but with a cheeky twist.

PAIR WITH: Medium eyebrows, a hint of blush and a bold lip if you’re feeling naughty.

THE BED HEAD Meticulously coifed to look totally effortless, the noughties supermodel Agness Deyn personified the bedhead. It’s sexy with a rock and roll edge, and surprisingly easy to perfect. Start with damp hair and some pomade, slowly and carefully tousling with your fingertips until you look artfully disheveled. Think tumble in the bedsheets instead of tumble through a hedge.

PAIR WITH: A nude lip, a smudgey smokey eye and nude, dewy make-up.

Beauty

MASCULINE B

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THE POMPADOUR

Party at the front, business at the back. A firm favourite with androgynous icon Tilda Swinton, the pompadour is a clean, contemporary style that can elongate rounder faces and give strong cheekbones even more impact. You’ll need to rough dry the front section of your hair upside down to add mountains of volume, before straightening it up and away from your face and using wax or pomade to tease the height. Play around with sculpting your quiff and don’t forget that big is almost definitely better. You can also use bobbypins to get this look just right.

PAIR WITH: Bold brows, defined cheekbones and nude eyes.

THE SLICK BACK Although achievable with any cut, this style is best when paired with an undercut. It’s fantastically simple, only needing wet hair, a comb and some gel. Comb it back, using dryer hair if you want to add volume for a more modern take on this masculine classic. Be careful not to slick it back too flat, though, or it’ll end up more Dracula-inspired than you want.

PAIR WITH: bold brows and defined contouring.

L

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designer

FOCUS Androgynous fashion prides itself on being open to both genders.

A neutral colour palette and simplistic silhouettes make it work for both the male and female form, sparking inspiration within many designers to create clothing that doesn’t need to tick a gender box.

NotEqual is a gender-free brand that explores creative innovation through fashion and art.

They push traditional fashion boundaries, but still offer something wearable. Challenging classic tailoring and making everything to order ensures that every garment is unique and cannot be found anywhere else. Handdraping and handcrafting their garments make them worth every penny of their price tag. The clothing is split into Collectibles, Collections and Artisanal, which consist of truly inimitable pieces.

Not only are the brands different in their ethos, but also in their online layout. The look book is shown via five collections: Re(formed), I.C. (eye.see), REgenerator, The. Lost.Circus and Vndro #1, and they reveal different trends and inspirations behind the designs.

NotEqual also showcases their projects, which include three studies: Evolution, Proportion and Gender. The first consists of designs that use a neutral colour palette and go straight back to basics.

Proportion Studies is highly feminine and uses soft pinks and floral prints. However, these overtly feminine tones are used to create manly silhouettes and add an androgynous element to an otherwise “girly” collection.

Expressed more as gender neutral, with both male and female models, the Gender Studies project adopts simple silhouettes and an all- white colour scheme, a nod to the

Roman and Egyptian eras. These humble styles indicate no gender identity at all.

Aside from discarding gender associations, NotEqual gives you a chance to explore fashion through tones and silhouettes, disregarding whether a piece belongs in the women’s or men’s department. Not everything is shapeless and bland, unlike many genderless brands, and the clothing melds feminine elements, such as defined waistlines and flattering pleats, with masculine elements, such as structured silhouettes and oversized pieces.

Your wardrobe may well be full to the brim with androgynous pieces, but now is the time to review what you have and find staple pieces that don’t indicate your gender, but the human form.

STOCKHOLM TRAVEL COOL, LOOK COOL:

Travel Androgynous style is often crafted from monochrome tones and simple silhouettes, which perfectly suit the bustling city lifestyle, so why not ditch the sandy beaches and head to two of Europe’s coolest cities? Here the vibrant architecture will be the perfect backdrop to your ensemble. Just because your style is laid back and effortless, doesn’t mean your holiday has to be.

Stockholm’s boldly coloured buildings make for a beautiful photo and reflect the city’s love of art. Filled with interesting museums and stunning architecture, the Swedish capital is fascinating to meander through. Stockholm is an emerging fashion capital and ultra-trendy, so expect to see loads of different takes on androgyny that will make people watching feel like flicking through a look book.

WHERE TO EAT: For classic Swedish food, head to the small but cosy Smörgåstårteriet restaurant on Dalagatan 42. It might seem

an overly sophisticated menu, but it definitely won’t disappoint.

WHERE TO STAY: First Hotel Drottning Kristina is elegant and situated close to all major transport links.

Elegance might not be to your usual taste, but low-key minimal style contrasts beautifully with the décor. Surrounded by theatres, restaurants, bars and shops, this is the perfect place to start.

Ask for a loft room for a cooler vibe and so your accommodation feels more like an apartment and less like a hotel.

WHERE TO VISIT: If you want to see some architectural history, head to Stockholm’s eclectic old town, Gamla Stan, and walk along tiny streets full of kitsch craft boutiques or visit the main square, Stortorget, for adorable coffee shops. Djurgården also has some stunning picnic spots and waterfront cafés.

Be sure to dress casually and comfortably: try pairing a laidback shirt with some cropped trousers and some well-worn flats.

Or maybe you fancy living like a swede? Visit Norrmalm for charming pubs and restaurants to wile away your afternoons.

If you want amazing views, head to Södermalm to admire the city. The long street that runs through the middle of the island is also absolutely perfect for shopping.

We know that you love to look good, so make like a fashion conscious swede and take a trip to the revamped urban playground Stureplan for upmarket shopping and vibrant nightlife. Make an effort here and use statement jewellery to

http://smorgastarteriet.se http://www.hoteldrottningkristinastureplan.se

add edge to your simple outfit. We suggest playing around with some statement shorts, a bralette and an open shirt for a feminine take on masculine style.

WHAT TO WEAR:

DAY

NIGHT KIMMY J BACK OPEN SHIRT £135.00

KIMMY J BUBBLE COLLAR SHIRTS £70.00

SANDRA WEI MADEMOISELLE CULOTTE £162.00

ÁERON BELLY STRING TOP £119.00

KAREN TOPACIO TRUNK SHORTS £518.00

LYA LYA LOVE & REVENGE RINGS £122.00 KATYA KOMAROVA GREY BOB BACKPACK £105.00

COPENHAGEN

to offer. Its boutique feels nods towards a monochrome palette, so everything is slick yet simple and you will blend in perfectly.

WHERE TO VISIT: You won’t find this anywhere else. Freetown Christiania is a green and car-free neighbourhood created by hippies in the 70s and is known for its residents’ unique way of life. A mix of homemade houses, workshops, galleries, music venues, organic eateries and beautiful nature make this place a must-see. Wear a WHAT TO WEAR: simple playsuit and tough boots to keep your look understated but comfy.

It’s definitely worth skipping the beach for Copenhagen’s If you want something more traditional, then Nyhavn, picturesque views. Spend your days relaxing in the originally a commercial port, is the perfect spot to wind beautiful gardens or visit all the museums, zoos and down. Make like the locals and buy a beer to savour by the theme parks for an action-packed day. Alternatively, quayside or head for dinner in a cosy restaurant. Enjoy the Copenhagen is divine to walk around, so come to simply chilled atmosphere and jazz music as you unwind from a feel the atmosphere. day of exploring. It’s so laid back here that wearing a simple black jumpsuit will keep you comfy but dressy enough for WHERE TO EAT: dinner. We suggest a grey scarf to keep you warm as the Head to Krebse Gaarden for a truly unique culinary night air starts to cool. experience, where the décor and menu are inspired by exhibitions that are shown in the opposite gallery. By linking If you’re travelling here to shop, head to Europe’s longest KATYA street in Strøget for clothing that ranges from budgetart and food, the restaurant offers a new experience upon KOMAROVA friendly to budget-busting. Don’t be afraid of distractions, BLACK CANDY BAG every visit. Customer service here is a highlight, so use this £90.00 though, as wandering down the side streets will take you to opportunity to speak to the owners about the best places to visit.

Copenhagen's most beautiful sights and attractions.

WHERE TO STAY: Stay at Hotel SKA. Annae for trend-led luxury. Situated http://www.krebsegaarden.dk right in the heart of Copenhagen, this hotel has everything http://www.hotelsktannae.dk

DAY

KATYA KOMAROVA THE KNOT LEATHER BELT £50.00

KIMMY J TINY JUMPSUIT £61.00

OSTEL JOSHO SHOES £200.00

NIGHT KIMMY J HALTER-NECK COLLAR JUMPSUIT £105.00

EL VOYAGE NEW YORK £70.00

THE ONES TO KNOW

Jessica Johnston

FASHION MERCHANDISER – University of Westminster, London, UK When people think of fashion, they often think the jobs within that sector are limited to design and photography.

Many aspiring students want a job in fashion but don’t know what position and are unaware of how many roles there actually are. Merchandising is spreadsheets, spreadsheets, spreadsheets and they work very closely with Buyers to determine a range of products for a retailer. They choose when to buy and at what price and give policy guidelines to the buyers to ensure the right product is brought and are responsible for sales forecast and stock levels.

The University of Westminster is in the top 5 fashion business schools in the UK and we spoke to a student that is about the graduate in the summer about what made her pick a field of study that is largely unknown.

What are your influences and inspirations that led Where do you see yourself in 5 years’ time and What do you like and dislike about the industry you to fashion merchandising? hope for within your career? you are in?

Doing business at college really made me realise my skill set and personal commerciality so I thought I would play to my business/math strengths and go into Merchandising. After hearing about a friend from my hometown doing the sister-buying course at Westminster it really sparked an interest in me. Aside from that, I already worked as a visual merchandiser and became really interested in the fashion industry from that.

Hopefully in Stockholm! I would love to be working in merchandising (maybe in 5 years at a assistant or junior merchandiser level) at either Cos or & Other Stories. I’d love to live the Scandi lifestyle and be able to immerse myself in a culture that is very pro genderneutral/unisex as it is something I am very passionate about!

‘Clique-ness’ can be quite hard in the fashion industry, if you aren’t in the right group at the right time you can made to be feel a bit of an outsider!

Having said that if you work in the right team/for the right brand some people may not ever experience that!

I personally love the fast paced job and knowing that you have something different to do each working day usually, keeps me on my toes!

See you next Issue!