Soft Secrets
entomology
Outdoor Plant Pests By Lazystrain
Entomology is the study of insects. Ethology the study of animal behavior. Both topics fascinate the imagination, and are directly related to outdoor growing. Therefore I thought I’d put pen to paper and provide the readers of Soft Secrets with a fresh perspective upon the subject of outdoor pests and their control. As an active ecologist (and firm advocate of outdoor organics) I can only promote the use of biological and/or ecological methods of pest control and/or natural methods of pest disposal. The following therefore provides a hands-on approach to dealing with some common outdoor pests found upon plant-life within the UK. Soil pests are here unmentioned, and will be covered in the next issue.
Insects The science of entomology (studying insects) is very complex. There are more than 20,000 recognized species of insect in the British Isles alone. Insects are everywhere; in water, around animals, upon plant-life, upon soil, and beneath many an unturned stone. Be it, flora or fauna, insect numbers exceed all rivals, in a competition for food. The outdoor gardener must therefore understand the basic principles of insect classification and nomenclature, in order to combat even the most common of outdoor plant pests. The life history of an insect may be simple or complex; one of longevity or short lived. To generalize, the life history of winged insect runs as follows: Adult insects lay eggs (often in batches). These eggs then hatch into larvae. The larvae eat and then eat and then eat some more. The larvae next turn pupae. Then the pupae emerge as adults. The adults mate, and the whole cycle starts over again. (Certain insects may skip either the larvae and/or pupae stage, hatching from egg into adolescents, then growing into adults). For the Outdoor Gardener many insects may be considered pests. These major pests include Aphids (Greenfly/Blackfly), Caterpillars (the larvae of Butterfly and Moth), Lacewing, Sawfly (larvae), Spider mites, Thrips, Vine Weevil and/or Whiteflies. Plus many other insect pests not mentioned here… While you rarely see Aphids inhabiting cannabis plants in large numbers, Aphids will attack just about any plant they can suck the sap from. The same may be said for Whiteflies, Spider mite and Thrips. A pyrethrum based spray and/or soap insecticide (available from most growshops/ DIY center) applied to infected areas usually nips problems in the bud. You may however find that some insects build up a tolerance to organic pesticides. In such cases a combination of organic insecticides can be applied (the use of tobacco and chili based sprays is very effective). The best organic method of controlling Caterpillars is to simply remove them by hand (paying attention to the underside of leafs). Where possible
Marihuana develops a much finer taste if you give it plenty of time to fully dry out in peace. All too often growers make the mistake of trying to accelerate the drying process, and this is a crying shame for the weed! Doing so will cause it to take on a very sharp taste.
please remember to place caterpillars and other rare insect-life into a nearby hedge/ garden (rather than needlessly destroying them). This way nature lives on to see another day!
Molluscs Slugs and Snails are the outdoor gardener’s worst nightmare. Snails and Slugs are hermaphrodites, the major difference being snails have a shell (and slugs aren’t technically molluscs). Where the Garden Snail (Helix aspersa) disappears to during the daytime often remains a mystery (often under logs, plant pots and stones), but come the evening these monopods crawl out in force to feed upon tender plant life. Both Slugs and Snails like damp evenings, which is the best time to conduct a mollusc hunt by torchlight. Personally I don’t fancy escargot (eating snails) and salting may damage the crops. For this reason, the best method of control is to remove them by hand, placing them someplace far away! I also like to provide anvils (large rocks) for the local Thrush. An even better biological method of controlling Slugs (it is claimed) is to attract Frogs by digging a pond. Chickens and Game Fowl will also eat slugs, while Hedgehogs, Field Mice and Shrews eat Snails.
Many people like to place chickenmesh about their plants to deter the likes of Deer, which in theory, on your own land, is fine. However, when people start placing chicken wire (or dumber still fishing-line) recklessly about the countryside, I feel they are somehow missing the point (and taking advantage). I wish these people would try to remember that most of the time us Humans invade the environs of Native Species, not the other way round (this includes the back garden)! What I’m trying to say is this; Outdoor growing is a competition against the elements that already exist in within nature. Animals play a large part in this equation. Please let’s not abuse them!
Whilst it must be made clear that Songbirds are a Gardener’s Friend, certain birds (I’m thinking of Wood Pigeons and Crows) can cause serious damage to plants. Many growers therefore employ the use of netting, if not only during early season, so as to keep bird-life from tender crops.
Mammals
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Habitat is the first thing to consider. Does your garden provide lots of places where potential garden friends/predators can hide? A pile of logs is often the best place to start. Digging a pond is the second best place. Moving to the countryside is the third…
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Encourage bird-life into your garden. Songbirds really are gardener’s best friend. Where possible put up nest boxes and feed station in winter, then come the summer songbirds return the favor by eating insect pests. Owls will eat mice and rats all year.
Many herbivores such as Mice, Rats, Rabbits, Hare, Deer, (and the odd Hippie) may browse or tread upon herbaceous plants including cannabis. Methods of control should firstly consider the local population density of the targeted species. Thereafter a program of control can be designed to suit your own needs. Generally speaking, a rifle (on FAC/firearms certificate) is the best way of controlling large mammals like Deer. Smaller mammals such as rabbits, rats and mice, may be air-gunned, netted, baited and/or trapped (All traps MUST be checked every 24hours by law). Other mammalian pests may include the Grey Squirrel (Sciurus carolinensis). Whether or not the Grey Squirrel holds a taste for cannabis remains to be observed, but many a Forester is aware of the tree vandalism caused by Squirrels (The native Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris is protected by law). Likewise, I’ve never heard about Foxes eating cannabis plants, although I do know that Dogs will browse upon the odd fan-leaf (given half the chance). One of the best methods of controlling all the above involves a hose/bucket of cold water. Cats may also tread or lay upon tender seedlings; but cats kill rats, so fair is fair.
your outdoor gardens free from weed species and leaf debris. -
Introduce some predatory insects into your garden early on. The Ladybird (Coccinella 7punctatal) is a famous eater of Aphids. The Ichneumon Fly (Apanteles glomeratus) is a parasitic wasp that lays eggs into butterfly caterpillars. These predatory insects will normally remain within the garden while pest insects remain.
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Develop your personal techniques. The easiest way to do this is to keep an ‘Outdoor Diary’, and study it before every growing season. Make notes on microclimate, entomology, ethology and anything else that may influences the development of your crop. Then the following year, learn from any mishaps or mistakes.
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Finally, if all else fails open a bottle of pyrethrum, batten the hatches on indoor grow rooms, buy a hose, some traps, a longnet, a ferret, an air-rifle. Then reside yourself to the fact that this year nature wins.
Biological Control Biological methods of pest control usually act as a preventative rather than an immediate cure. Preventative measures against possible infestation must therefore be employed throughout the growing season, and not just when symptoms persist. Ironically, many garden friends, like Ants and Wasps, may equally be considered pests. Weighing up the pros and cons of biological control thus involves understanding (and a certain degree of risk). Overall, biological control is the beneficial option when it comes to controlling pests, whilst befriending the earth. The methods of control taken may be as simple, or as complex, as needs allow. The following provides some basic approaches:
Bird-life
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Maintenance is also important. As with indoor set-ups, a tidy garden is often pest free! Native weed species play host to many local plant pests. Try to keep
After thoughts… In most cases, it is more than likely that you will notice the signs of pest damage before actually noticing the pests. At this point learn from YOUR mistakes don’t blame Nature! Check outdoor plants weekly (if not daily) for signs of damage and/or infestation. This way the outdoor gardener stays one step ahead of major problems, and minor infestations become part of the fun. It’s not funny when a dissident band of snails decide to eat your outdoor seedlings during the night, but hey this is nature…what did you expect? Once Nature becomes your friend instead of your enemy, those plant pests become ‘part of the experience’, not something to get down about. At the end of the day, one of the biggest pests to outdoor plant-life is people themselves. I’m thinking about urbanisation; all that concrete, pollution, ignorance and theft. All of the things we have come to associate with human nature, not Nature itself.
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