Beauty Beyond Colour | FCP Dissertation by Sanjana Ragu

#UnFair&Lovely

Beauty Beyond Colour

A social awareness campaign celebrating the beauty and diversity of all skin tones

Contents

01The Industry 03

The Core

Mirror, Mirror on the wall whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the fairest of them all?

Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s obsession with Fairness

Interacting with brands

The Damage A Nude awakaning

Mental Health

The changing face of beauty

Turning awareness into action

05 The Campaign Shades of Melanin

Route to consumer

Geurrilla Marketing

Messuring success

Evolusion of skin colour The origin of skin colour

The science of Melanin

The hierachy of skin colour

Global Phenomenon

Consumer The scale

The colour complex

The colour confident

consumer diary

Index Illustration

Refferences

Bibliography

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Global spending on skin lightening is projected to triple to $31.2 billion by 2024â&#x20AC;? (Global Industry Analysts, 2017)

Fig 1. white face paint. (2017)

Fig 2 UnFairandLovely. (2016)

Colourism Noun Prejudice or discrimination against individuals with a dark skin tone, typically among people of the same ethnic or racial group.

Preface We are all born with an individual skin tone, whatever the colour, our skin tells an epic tale of human intrepidness and adaptability. Born in India with medium ‘beige’ skin colour/ shade; I grew up with advertisements on TV and magazines, promoting products to lighten skin by applying various ‘whitening’ creams or soaps. I even remember those who had fairer skin in comparison to others, in India, for some reason got more respect than their counterparts. I have been lucky enough to travel all over the world and get a global perspective as an International student for over 10 years. Over time, I have come to the realisation that part of my infatuation for fair-skin was a conditioned state of mind through communication by the media for creating a want and a need for ‘fair-er’ skin to feel beautiful. After India got Independence from the British rule, there stayed behind an ideology, which has been unbeatable. Most of India still seem to have been conditioned through beauty advertisements and history’s influence, that having ‘white’ skin equals beauty and more power within their societal-ethic group. However, more recently, I have begun to notice a trend within my generation, (Gen Z) flighting against products and advertisements selling such messages. It is for these reasons, I will explore further into my consumer behaviour and their dissatisfaction with the skin lightening industry and aim to solve the wider and fundamental issue surrounding colourism.

Aim Decode advertisements for skin-related product, as skin colour discrimination is the effect of advertisements; including print, digital commercials and social media.

Objective To change the way the beauty industry portrays skin colour.

The Industry

Fig 3. Dove. Dove Ad (2017)

The core

Fig 4 Ragu, S. Banksy (2017)

The beauty industry is purely built on trust and the idea of empowerment of Its consumer. However, a certain sector of the beauty industry focuses on changing the colour of skin, for example, dark to fair or fair to tan. The idea of wanting to apply makeup to enhance one’s beauty is understandable from a consumer’s point of view, but it is interesting that brands like ‘Fair and Lovely’ and ‘Fem face bleach’ is also amongst the beauty industry influencing the consumer to follow the trend in obsessing for fair skin, which has been there forever, it’s as old as civilization. More than four hundred million dollars worth of skin whitening products is sold each year in India alone. (Banerji 2016) Skin lightening market in Asia-Pacific alone is valued at over 13 billion US dollars. In 2015, the skin whitening industry was worth about $10 billion. (Rehman 2017) “Global spending on skin lightening is projected to triple to $31.2 billion by 2024” – (Global Industry Analysts, 2017) “Fair & Lovely, marketed by the consumer goods behemoth Hindustan Unilever, has more than a 50 percent share of the market. (Karnani 2010) The BBC once reported that in South Asia more skin lightening creams are sold than bottles of Coca-Cola.” (Ray, 2010) This report will uncover the true story of how brands and companies are making whooping profits in the cosmetic market. India is viewed as the biggest market for cosmetic products worth more than 300 crore rupees, with a constant increase in competition due to the influx of more companies. With the media endorsing the toxic belief that a person’s worth is measured by the colour of their skin through advertisement campaigns. So is growing competition in the ‘fairness’ product industry and with the want to look fairer in the south Asian communities, one wonders how ‘fair’ can they really go?

Fig 5. Fair and Lovely (2017)

Fig 6. Figures and States (2018)

Mirror, Mirror on the wall, who is the fairest of them all? The scenario today is not too different but has only gone deep and far. The minds of the masses have been interpolated with the bombardments of such ‘ideological apparatuses’ for aeons and most people in India hardly notice anything grievously abnormal with these advertisements. (See Fig ) Skin Lightening products seem like such an obvious business model. Having whiter skin is aspirational for many. As the corporates would say, the fairness of skin is a consumer want, and with influxes in the market, they will oblige and satisfy this burning demand with gracious supply. Beauty brands have recognised their consumer and the need to look a certain way and fit in with beauty standards; creating products that make people look more acceptable in agreement with the expectation of western societies. Brands like Fair and Lovely have been the innovators in the market, The Impacts of this has been that this over-consumption of this idea of ‘being fair skinned leads to loveliness’ has opened up the market for a plethora of products, which can be purchased all over Asia and even exported all over the world for Asians to use. Colonial mentality reigns across Asia. Most Indian celebrities have light skin, and the obsession with light skin recently reached a new low with a campaign for a product to lighten the skin around the vagina. (Intimate Area Whitening, 2014)

USP

Fig 7. Fair and Handsome. (2018)

Due to the cult following of ‘Fair and Lovely, targeted at women, Emamie, released ‘Fair & Handsome’ targeted specifically at men. With statements like “Now you no longer need to steel your sister’s or girlfriend’s fairness cream, Fair & Handsome a cream made just for a Man’s skin!”

Marketing mix The advertising method used by the brand ‘Fair and Lovely’ is unique in it’s concept. The most common advert shows the whitening effect on women gradually increasing in six stages. The glow and the happiness depicted in these advertisements, is building on every indin girls skin dreams. In Indian community, most girls want to be fair and so the fairness cream has become a necessity instead of a luxury item.

Fig 8. Sharukh Khan (2018)

Fairness products are no longer targeted solely at women. In 2005, the Indian cosmetic company, Emami, launched India’s first fairness cream to target the men market, ironically named Its product “Fair and Handsome”. The marketing campaign suggested that men would no longer need to secretly use their sister’s fairness products but now have their own product specifically concocted for them. Fair and Handsome, endorsed by one of India’s most popular film star, Shahrukh Khan was an immediate success. (Fair & Handsome, 2008) Sales profit started skyrocketing growing 45% each year and Emami became the market leader in men’s fairness cream (Kazmin, 2011)

India’s Obsession with fairness “At a theoretical level, whiteness is a source of symbolic cultural capital that is associated with upperclass images, luxury, prestige and success in Asian cultures” (Rhada,2007). “In Hindu religion, Kali, a darkskin goddess, is a symbol of ugliness, cruelty, and destruction” (Hakin, 2004) and manifests the negative association of dark-skinned women in Indian society. In sum, ‘whiteness’ is an important sign in presenting and constructing beauty in Indian culture. Advertisements for skin-lightening creams still appear in newspapers, on television and on billboards, featuring Bollywood celebrities such as Shahrukh Khan and Deepika Padukone endorsing lightening of skin using the product they promote. (See Fig 9)

Fig 9. Ragu, S. Skin Lightening (2018)

Skin Lighting Ads Moodboard

Fig 10 Nars. (2018)

Interacting with industry experts

Skin Tax Questioning if India treats visiting foreigners with light skin any different. India Is making more money on foreigners because of the local conditioning over generations and the connotation attached to being ‘fair skinned’ equals power, and hence being more wealthy. An interview with a mid 30’s Australian, (white skin) lady, at Delhi Airport anchored this fact as she said, “The ticket price to enter the Taj Mahal, (One of the seven world wonders) is 1000 rupees (£8.20) for a foreigner and 40 rupees (35p) for Indians’. (Appendix 07.e) This displayed on a big board invites foreign customers from all over the world, ripping them off, on an unchanged ideology. Though unfair, the price to enter the Taj Mahal is unintentionally innocent as locals don’t see it as ripping off foreigners but in fact, treat it as a blessing from someone with a lot of money for the management of the monument. Unfortunately, they don’t understand that no matter what skin colour, anybody can have money problems. This ideology in communities can only be changed through education and finding a new way to communicate a new message.

The Body Shop sales assistant confirmed that more than 50% of their sales at the kiosk in Delhi Airport is from their skin lightening product range. He also reaffirmed that a majority of costumers that buy into these products are in fact female. (Appendix 07.a ) When questioned about the variety of colours in foundations to a store manager of M.A.C Cosmetics in Nottingaham, brought out an interesting insight. “M.A.C is known for their variety of foundations that match neumours skin shades across the world, but we still have costumers who can’t find a match to their shade of skin in-store these days because all our products are sold online and we no longer need to stock all our products if we feel not enough costumers around that retail space would buy” (Appendix 07.C) Sales manager at Nars beauty counter in John Lewis, London added that the company knew that this was a very big issue, which in terms of product is why they “brought of a new foundation collection with more shades than ever before, in between the colours that we already had, especially for darker skin shades, we’ve put more colours in because from our feedback we found that too many people we saying either it was too orange or too light for them and the marketing for this one has to be really big because it is such an important topic but the guys in the office are always on top of their social media game so they are doing a really good job. Now Nars as a whole has made tremendous improvements on their foundation shade scale.” (Appendix 07.b)

Consumer Opinion (Appendix 07.g , 07. h)

37%

61%

Had heard of the brand ‘Fair and Lovely’ before taking part in the survey.

are attracted to people with a ‘sun kissed tan’

85%

of naturally light skinned prefer their skin Tanned. they use creams, sprays, sun bathing or sun beds to make their skin darker or a “healthy glow”

agree that products like ‘Fair & Lovely’ promotes the idea of white supremacy and the notion that being darker skinned is something dirty that you should wash off. 16

78%

Fig 11 Ragu, S. Survey Moodboard. (2018)

% 31Colonisation

Have used Skin Lightening or Tanning creams to change the colour of their skin

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The impact that colourist have on young girls light girls and dark girls leave scars on the soul that live into women hoodâ&#x20AC;?. Iyanla Vanzant (2017)

Evolusion of skin colour

Origin of skin colour “Melanin is the pigment in all our bodies that gives skin & hair it’s colour. This ingredient comes from skin cells called melanocytes and takes two basic forms. There’s ’eumelanin’, which gives rise to a range of brown skin tones, as well as black, brown, and blond hair, and ’pheomelanin’, which causes the reddish browns of freckles and red hair.” (Koine Flyn, A. 2016) Humans weren’t always like this. Our varying skin tones were formed by an evolutionary process driven by the Sun. It began 50,000 years ago when our ancestors migrated north from Africa and into Europe and Asia. These ancient humans lived between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn, a region saturated by the Sun’s UV-carrying rays. When skin is exposed to UV for long periods of time, the UV light effects the DNA within our cells, therefore darkening the skin. Sunscreen as we know it today didn’t exist 50,000 years ago.

Fig 12. Melanocyte (2018)

So how did our ancestors cope with this onslaught of UV? The key to survival lay in their own personal sunscreen manufactured beneath the skin: melanin.

Fig 13. Skin Tan (2017)

The Science of Melanin Biological and geographical changes throughout history have a direct link to how human skin colour has changed over time. The type and amount of melanin in your skin determines whether you’ll be more or less protected from the sun. This comes down to the skin’s response as sunlight strikes it. When it’s exposed to UV light, that triggers special light-sensitive receptors called rhodopsin, which stimulate the production of melanin to shield cells from damage. For light-skinned people, that extra melanin darkens their skin and produces a tan. Over the course of generations, humans living at the Sun-saturated latitudes in Africa adapted to have a higher melanin production threshold and more eumelanin, giving skin a darker tone. This built-in sun shield helped protect them from melanoma, likely making them evolutionarily fitter and capable of passing this useful trait on to new generations. But soon, some of our Sun-adapted ancestors migrated northward out of the tropical zone, spreading far and wide across the Earth. The further north they travelled, the less direct sunshine they saw. This was a problem because although UV light can damage skin, it also has an important parallel benefit. UV helps our bodies produce vitamin D, an ingredient that strengthens bones and lets us absorb vital minerals, like calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphate, and zinc. Without it, humans experience serious fatigue and weakened bones that can cause a condition known as rickets. vitamin D deficiency would have posed a serious threat in the north. They were exposed to small enough amounts of light that melanoma was less likely, and their lighter skin better absorbed the UV light. So they benefited from vitamin D, developed strong bones, and survived well enough to produce healthy offspring. (Koine Flynn, A. 2016) Over many generations of selection, skin colour in those regions gradually lightened. As a result of our ancestor’s adaptability, today the planet is full of people with a vast palette of skin colours

When ultraviolet sunlight hits our skin, it affects each of us a little differently. Depending on skin colour, it will take only minutes of exposure to turn one-person beetroot-pink,

while another, requires hours to experience the slightest change. So where did we get so many shades of colour and how did our skin come to take on so many different hues, to begin with?

Fig 14. World Skin Tone Map (2016)

Fig 15. Pears Soap (1960)

“All around the world, it was a fact that the rich could stay indoors versus the poor who worked outside and were dark-skinned.” Abraham, M-R. (2017).

Deconstructing the Hierarchy of Skin Colour “Colourism has its roots embedded deeply in the history of colonisation” Zadeh, E (2014) Countries annexed by European colonialism were imbued with a false perception of beauty based on an ideology of white supremacy. This preference for fair skin was perpetuated and strongly reinforced by colonialism. Dozens of countries, where European power was established became its dominance. It’s the idea that the ruler is fair-skinned. Euro-centric ideology took root in many cultures with the rise of colonialism in the eighteenth century and with the spread of mass media and consumer goods in the twentieth century. White males occupied the top of the social hierarchy while non-white females, especially black females, were at the bottom. People from non-white cultures, like African Americans, “bleached” themselves (first with folk preparations and later with commercial skin lighteners) in an attempt to blend in the dominant society (Hall 1995).

Part of the process of creating a European empire was to define the European self in contrast to everyone else. How could you justify dominating and enslaving other people if you didn’t tell yourself you were better in every way? Europeans placed themselves at the pinnacle of the human race and dark-skinned Africans at the very bottom. To be black was to be primitive, backward, inferior, dirty, ugly, evil, devilish, deviant, corrupt and unappealing, while to be white was to be virtuous, beautiful, refined, humane, intelligent and godly. It has been 128 years since the last country in the world abolished slavery and 53 years since Martin Luther King pronounced his "I Have A Dream" speech. (King, M. 1963) But we still live in a world where the colour of our skin not only gives the first impression but a lasting one that remains.

Global Phenomenon?

Skin Lightening in Asia

The desire for white and fair skin is a global phenomenon especially in non-white cultures and is not limited to Asian contexts. African, South American and Middle-Eastern cultures also have their own traditions of skin whitening and lightening, especially seen in women, whitening and lightening skin has both empowering and disempowering functions for women. Minority women are also more likely to buy products that have been advertised specifically to help them appear more ‘white’, like skin lightening creams or treatments. Skin Lightening in Africa in Africa before contact with Europeans in the 16th century. Africans used shared culture, language and traditions, rather than skin tone, as a means of identification. Eight out of ten women in Nigeria use skin lightening products, the world's highest percentage. According to the World Health Organisation, 77% of Nigerian women use skin lightening products on a regular basis, as do 59% in Togo, 35% in South Africa, 27% in Senegal and 25% in Mali. These products are also used in Zimbabwe, Ivory Coast, Gambia and Tanzania. (Jabbar, S. 2014) These figures seem unusually high, but even if they’re overblown the problem is more than just cosmetic, it is culturally destructive.

In certain Southeast Asian countries such as Malaysia, a common beauty ideal is the ‘Eurasian look’ known locally in Malaysia as the ‘pan-Asian look’ is an ideal that stems from the beauty ideal of fair skin, which Eurasians tend to naturally possess. However, young Filipinas, don’t look to white Europeans and Americans as the ideal. They see Japanese and Koreans as having the desirable skin tone, (and lightskinned) Filipina celebrities, such as Michelle Reis, Sharon Kuneta, or Claudine Baretto (Glenn, 2008, p. 291). Asian mythological protagonists are typically fair and depict virtue, purity, and goodness. A light complexion is equated with feminine beauty, racial superiority, and power, and continues to have strong influences on marital prospects, employment, status, and income.

Nigerian pop musician Dencia launched a product called “Whitenicious” in 2014, which sold out immediately. She stated that getting a few shades lighter was a personal choice. That’s an argument repeated by every member of the fairness products industry. But the choice no longer remains personal when it has been subconsciously imposed by generations of social conditioning and has the potential to harm the physical and mental wellbeing of the very individual who uses it. Vybz Kartel, a rap artist is also popular for his ‘cake soap’ and the song he released about using the soap to lighten the skin. He said to rolling stones magazine when questioned about the populism of such products and he bluntly replied “I have said in a statement that when everyone stops doing all of that shit, we can all live naturally ever after. But until then, fuck you all” – (Vybz Kertel,2011). Skin-lightening/bleaching is a problem, but it's only a sign of much deeper inter-related issues: self-hatred, a race-based identity crisis, and the internalisation of Western-created cultural ideas that are inimical to the mental health of black people.

American Control Meanwhile, in America, skin tone is also used to control and sow divisions among black people and, as a side bonus, to warp their minds. “Bi-racial offspring of white masters and black slaves were made house slaves and separated from their darker-skinned counterparts, who remained in the fields.”. (Jabbar, S. 2014) Thus the feelings of inferiority created by the condition of being enslaved permeated even deeper. Colourism yields real-world advantages for individuals with light skin. “For example, light-skinned Latinos make $5,000 more on average than dark-skinned Latinos” Beck, E (2016). Moreover, a Villanova University study of more than 12,000 African American women imprisoned in North Carolina found that lighter-skinned black women received shorter sentences than their darker-skinned counterparts. (Nittle, N 2017) Previous research by Stanford psychologist Jennifer Eberhardt found that darker-skinned black defendants were two times more likely. than lighter-skinned black defendants to get the death penalty for crimes involving white victims. (Trei, L. 2006).

“Unethical money hungry companies” (Appendix 07.h)

Fig 16 Ragu, S. Global Pheonomenon (2018)

Global phenomenon Moodboard 25

Fig 17. Tate Britain (2016)

The damage

Fig 18. Tanning Creams (2018)

A Nude awakening In the UK, tanning salons are seeing an increase in attendance by males, with 25% of men between 18-24 years have used a tanning salon in 2016, this figure is compared with 21% of women from the same age group. Mintel (2017)

Fighting to stand its battle with the competitors in the opposite sector of the scale - ‘tanning creams’. The widespread of this new product with the impact from globalisation can be seen in western communit. Tanning became just as much as the status symbol as pale skin used to be. A tanned skin suggested summer holidays on tropical islands, an outdoor lifestyle, fitness and overall robust health. And if one couldn't afford a life of leisure, what do they do? Tan in the backyard, or get a fake-tan, of course. Tanning beds and indoor tanning has taken off all over the western world. Tanning was only made chic when Coco Chanel caught too much sun on a Mediterranean cruise. She is widely credited or blamed for changing the love for pale skin. "I think she may have invented sunbathing. At that time, she invented everything." (Jean-Louis de Faucigny-Lucigne, 1925) By the 1960s, colour film and commercial air travel were available and people soon had enough money to enjoy both. The glamour of sunbathing drew Britons to the Mediterranean, particularly Spain. When economic strife returned to Britain in the 1970s, methods of sunless tanning – such as coppertone self-tan – grew in popularity, and by 1978, the sunbed was reintroduced as a quick way of bronzing. The cosmetics boom of the 1980s and the accessibility of Mediterranean package holidays too carried the glamour of tanning through to the 1990s. By 2000, a survey showed that 50% of Britons said that returning with a tan was the single most important reason for actually going on holiday. (Addley, 2009) Women unleashed the shackles of the Victorian era and took on a new minimalist style – combined with a “healthy glow”.

Damage to skin Fears surrounding the risks of tanning was confirmed in 2009, when it was found that rates of malignant melanoma in the UK have more than quadrupled in the past 30 years and that it is the most common form of cancer among those aged 15-34. The World Health Organisation has found that people who have been using tanning devices before age 30 are 75% more likely to develop melanoma. (Bazin, 2009) Skinlightening creams often aim to interrupt the production of melanin They can contain a natural ingredient such as soy, liquorice or arbutin, sometimes combined with the medical lightening agent hydroquinone (not all creams contain this: Hydroquinone, the active ingredient in some skin lightening creams, can actually cause permanent skin bleaching, weakening of the skin, and even darkening of the skin in some cases. Hydroquinone is a highly toxic chemical used in photo processing, rubber manufacturing and hair dyes but it is also one of the most commonly used ingredients for skin whitening. (Vox, 2018) More worryingly, skin lightening creams that are popular globally are often made with mercury, a neurotoxin. Hydroquinone is a potentially carcinogenic ingredient, and products containing it are banned or restricted in South Africa, Japan, Australia and the European Union, though they are still sold illegally. (Abraham. M-R, 2017) Most of the women who buy cosmetics, including skinlightening creams or skin-tanner, are between the ages of 18 and 34—which also happens to be the period when women are more likely to have children. it’s possible that the extra chemicals in beauty products could be contributing to premature births or uterine fibroid, both of which are more common in women of colour. For example, parabens, which are used as preservatives in makeup, have been shown to act like extra estrogen in both men and women. (Sharma, 2018) But researchers are still trying to determine whether or not parabens could affect women’s reproductive health.

Fig 19. Old Pears Soap. (1960)

Mental Health

Fig 20. Micheal Jackson (2015)

These products have been around for a long time and have proven to be damaging physically and emotionally. So, what accounts for the growing popularity? For starters skin, whitening products rely on advertisements. Skin colour forms part of what gives us access and prestige in society. All these negative associations that society has already imposed on dark skin “You can’t be happy. You can’t find a man.” Wehn one doesn’t fit into society beauty ideals, the advertisement only reinforcing and exacerbating a sustained message, thanks to globalisation, it’s a message that’s reaching more people every year. Racist beauty standards do a lot of damage to nonwhite women. The immense global pressure to conform to a white European ideal—including light skin, straight hair, and a slim figure—means that women of colour are particularly susceptible to developing psychological problems ranging from eating disorders to depression and generalized self-hatred. Skin-lightening/bleaching is a problem, but it’s only a sign of a much deeper inter-related issue: self-hatred, a race-based identity crisis, and the internalisation of western-created cultural ideals that are inimical to the mental health of dark people. Why? Well partially because they’re all forced to try and comply with European beauty standards, which means using appearance altering products, which relax their hair and bleach their skins. Fig 21. Umbrella. (2017)

A conversation with my target consumer (Arushi Anand) helped me further understand the ideologies behind skin lighting and tanning. It's a choice as an adult, while wanting lighter skin is not a crime nor is it necessarily bad. It's important to be conscious of this choice and why it's different from skin tanning or putting on lipstick. Tanning does not have a negative connotation as it does not represent the same deep rooted issues skin whitening does. Wanting to lighting one’s skin colour, has developed from more than just one’s appearance, anchoring the negative stigma. (Appendix 07.d) )

“In Victorian times people used to bleach their skin all the time because at that time to be pale was associated with looking good and essentially money and now people going away for a tan is still associated with having money because the assumption is that they’ve been on holiday but on the other end of the spectrum, is about racial overtones and undertones because its associated with race.” (Good morning Britain, 2017)

Fig 22. Covered Fce (2015)

Fig 23. Skin Bleached (2017)

The changing face of beauty Attitudes are starting to change with inclusive makeup lines and emojis, media campaigns celebrating dark skin beauty and more celebrities talking about the issue “I still feel like that’s what we’re fighting, healing from the past

“Forget Snow White, say Hello to natural, I’ll write my own fairy tale” (Johar, A.2017)

Beauty industry Brands are now trying to cater for women of colour but they’ve usually brought out one dark foundation, assuming that all dark skins are the same tone. However, Rihanna’s collection – Fenty Beauty, has 40 shades in total and at least half of them would be suitable for ethnic minorities. Rihanna's new makeup line, Fenty Beauty has been blowing up. It dropped during New York Fashion Week in September 2017 and since then the color pop and highlighters match sticks and lip gloss have created a buzz on social media but the most notable thing about the line is the range of foundation shades are 40 to be exact and many of the deeper shades were sold out in stores and online within days of the launch. How often do you hear about darker shades of makeup being sold out for a long time? Has beauty industry has neglected women of colour as consumers? Rihanna’s successful makeup line has challenged the notion to the market for deeper shades for profitable for cosmetic companies, it also raised an important question about why companies haven’t had the same kind of inclusivity. Other mainstream brands like CoverGirl, Revlon, Maybelline and L'Oreal also attempted to cater to the broader market of complexions but it's quite easy to see where mainstream brands have fallen short.

The Cosmetic truth Recent campaigns by cosmetic companies and brands have featured dark women to make them feel more restored, but have they really taken the time to understand skin needs, colour tones, hair textures etc? The beauty industry has faced major scientific challenges in formulating foundations for medium to deeper skin tones. Not all mixed race women are ‘tan’ or ‘beige’. Asian women don’t want to wear foundation that is either way too light or way too dark. An Insight is that beauty brands are not satisfying their entire female consumer. (Appendix 07. g) Yet it has been proven that corporations are significantly suffering from losses as they continue to forget about their dark consumers. if not politics, religion, or status it is makeup that could bring us together but unfortunately, it doesn’t.

Make up Brands Moodboard

Fig 24 Ragu, S. Makeup Brands (2018)

Perceptual map

Insight Fenty Beauty by Rihanna is the brand thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s innovative to create an impact for the future in a possitive attitude. More cosmetics brands need to follow suit with accnolodging the plathora of skin tones. 34

Fig 25. Louboutins (2016)

Fashion The fashion world has been criticized for not being diverse enough and rightfully so. More than 75% of models walking the runways at New York Fashion Week are white. (REF) One designer is giving the typically pale shade a new meaning; Christian Louboutin really shook up the fashion world, when he introduced a diverse array of nude shoes in several different skin tones now he’s added two more skin friendly hues. Louboutin expansive collection ensures that every woman can find a nude perfectly suited to her complexion. Known for his “nude is not a colour, it’s a concept,” attitude, is exciting to see Christian Louboutin continuing to offer women of all skin tones a shoe option that actually matches.

For most women when they shop for lingerie their default colour is nude, but for a woman of colour that option just doesn’t exist. Nubian Skin was born out of that frustration. Ade Hassan embarked on a mission to redefine "nude" and empower women of colour. In 2014, Nubian Skin launched their line of skin tone lingerie and hosiery with the mission of “redefining nude” for women of all ethnicities, and ever since, the brand has become everyone’s favourite lingerie brands. The line has also become a celebrity favourite of stars like Beyoncé and Jourdan Dunn. (Tate, 2017)

Shades of Mia Mina is a luxury fashion brand that aims to solve this problem of colourism. British fashion label that offers high-quality clothing at affordable prices in a range of nude and neutral shades to compliment the true, and individual skin tone of all complexions, from ivories to deep cocoa shades. It celebrates and represents the diverse and beautiful shades of nude; recognising that not everyone’s shades of nude are the same. (Mia Mina, 2018)

Health and Medical Inspiring product design solutions such as ‘TruColour Bandages’ show how important, this goes beyond the beauty arena The company offer a range of bandages and plasters in a whole range of complexions with the tagline of “Diversity in Healing” showing a commitment to inclusive design. (WGSN, 2017)

Fig 26 Ragu, S. Campaigns (2018)

Turning Awareness into Action: Campaigns with Social Impact Numerous campaigners have also started working towards educating and inspiring people to truly under the ‘nude’. body colour. It’s inspiring to understand how other campaigns are like advocacy group Women of Worth launched a ‘Dark is Beautiful’ campaign in 2009 with the tagline ‘Stay unfair, stay beautiful,’ to fight the “toxic belief that a person’s worth is measured by the fairness of their skin”. (Chandaran, 2017) Another campaign which leads me to an Insight is, Humanae a pursuit to highlight our true human colours, rather than the untrue-white, red, black or yellow associated with race. It’s a kind of game to question our codes. It’s a work in progress. (Dass, 2018) portrays the subjects on a white background. Then chooses an 11-pixel square from the nose, paints the background, and looks for the corresponding colour in the industrial palette, Pantone. Those portraits make us rethink how we see each other. When modern science is questioning the race concept, what does it mean for us to be black, white, yellow, red? does it have to do with our origin, nationality or bank account? In Hindu scriptures, God’s are in fact mentioned to have dark skin, however, centuries later, fair skinned pictures of deities are prayed to at Hindu homes. With a mission to break barriers of such ideologies and questioning why the God’s like Krishna and Rama were depicted as blue-skinned sometimes but were never portrayed as having dark brown or black skin. Photographer Naresh Nil, for a project ‘Dark is Divine’ realsed six portraits of dark-skinned God’s ultimately aiming to not just usher in an acceptance of the idea, but to normalise the thought of a dark-skinned god. (darkisdivine, 2018) During the civil rights era, the Black Power movement sought to counter this idea with messages like “Black is beautiful” (Oster, 2017) but that message hasn’t undone the damage brought by centuries of colourism A funny thing happens in marketing when it comes to social impact and issues, we convince ourselves that awareness is an end in itself. In reality, defaulting to awareness is tantamount to letting ourselves off the hook. The problem is they all put a premium on awareness as opposed to audience engagement, preferring you understand versus enabling you to make a material impact on your community. So I am here to tell strategists and creatives it’s time to stop doing the awareness thing. Telling people to do good or be better won’t work anymore when it comes to constructing a social marketing plan. Instead, engaging people will create meaningful social impact.

Key Insights

The media reinforces colourism by privileging people with light skin in the majority of instances when people of colour are represented. Some children of colour as young as three years of age associating light skin with positive attributes and dark skin with negative ones. Global spending on skin lightening is projected to triple to $31.2 billion by 2024 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; (Global Industry Analysts, 2017) The government needs to have tighter control before the market is flooded with more lightening and tanning creams. Western makeup brands lack awareness of the huge gap in the Asian and African market for makeup catered for dark skin.

Fig 27 Ragu, S. Joiners (2018)

The What? I think there are divisions among all communities, because of the skin tones we have, there is a barrier between light skin and dark skin, in all cultures and societies. Where people of my complexion would be seen to have more “privileges” and rather than breaking down the barrier’s that’s being held against us all, we create these tensions between us, which is just perpetuation the system, which is holding us down and keeping us down. Rather than creating these tensions, enabling those that are above us who are keeping us below them to keep us with that agenda, we should be finding ways to stick to gather and embrace our similarities. The Why?

The Problem 40

To end a cycle, it’s going to require education and integration. Firstly, we need to educate people from the start to stop being ignorant, because skin colour itself doesn’t matter. Secondly with integration, if we live in a community with different shades of colour, people should at this point in our existence, now just appreciate all skin tones and colour.

The Consumer

“The colourism that exist with our community was as damaging as racism because it hurts more when it’s coming from your own” Valeisha Butterfield (2017)

Consumer In order to target my consumer, I devised a scale to underpin the group of people who are affected and surpassed the Eurocentric beauty ideals sold by the media. My consumers can be found on the scale between ‘The Colour Complex’ and ‘The Colour Confident’

The Colour Complex

• The colour complex is easily influenced by the media to fit into a box and become a trend sheep by following celebrities to change the colour of their skin. • They are insecure about their own akin colour and find it hard to find romantic partners due to the imbalance of confidence in their own skin. • Suppressed by own family and friends for not being a certain colour. • Influenced by makeup brand when they shop to buy a lighter or darker foundation to make their skin look more ‘healthy or glowing’ • Uses all types of products available in the market to change the colour of their own skin shade. • Effects of daily lifestyle, mood and habits hence, prone to depression and anxiety due to idealising a different skin shade.

The Colour Confident

• The colour confident consumer doesn’t care about beauty ideals as they realise the importance of selflove and in fact encourages friends to not fall into the trap of media’s beauty ideals. • Belongs to a generation who reads current affair news and is self-educated and developed confidence. • This generation looks at each other to bring about change. Lack of trust in government and brands, their biggest asset in forcing a difference is their collective voice. • Gen Z’s political power is increasing traffic towards standing up for change for minority rights and making sure the voices of all races are heard and are equal. They are PRO-choice. • Watches YouTubers like Sejal who promotes ‘proud of my own colour’. • Believes in the power of social media.

The Colour Complex

Anything by M.A.C or Bobbi Brown

Most used Instagram Filter? Probaby Jakarta or Melbourne cus it make everything brighter

Tan or Light skin? Light Bronze

Sun or Indoors? I like the Sun but not for too long

Holiday? Anywhere the weather is pleasent, India to too hot!

Bed time routie? Take my makeup off and then apply fem bleach because iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll most likely have shotting thenext day a ndthey like me to be as fair at possible (Appendix)

Fig 28. Ragu, S. The Colour Complex (2018)

Favorite Foundation?

Colour Complex diary Model and Actress from the Kannada industry in India

Has tried all the products available in the market to lighten skin

Asked to apply foundation which is 3x times lighter than her natural skin tone

conviced by the industry, to look beautiful she must be a white shade of pale

Colour Confident diary

Hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t used makeup ever

Confused by the idea of applying fairness creams

Stands up to anyone who discriminates and reiniciates colourism Influences her friends to be happy with their skin tone

beleaves in ones inner beauty than whats on the out side

The Colour Confident Favorite Foundation? I dont wear any foundation

Most used Instagram Filter? No filter

Tan or Light skin? My natural skin colour

I love being out in the sun!

Favorite lipstick colour? Red

Favorite Cocktail? I dont drink

Bed time routie? Wash my face, moisturise and clense

Fig 29. Ragu, S. The Colour Confident (2018)

Sun or Indoors?

“ I asked my mom, instead of looking for grooms who are ‘fair’ let’s look for grooms who will treat people fairly because the colour of our skin isn’t what we should consider when we look to marry. Virtues, beliefs, opinions and decisions scale larger than his stand on the fairness scale.” Joha, A. (2018).

Change Conditioning

Social Awareness The How? Given that colourism affects people of colour of different ethnicities in different geographical locations in contrasting ways, it is important to tailor the campaign against colourism accordingly. However, there are also aspects of the campaign that need to be global; an important example would be to challenge the exploitation of colourist and racist attitudes by the skin bleaching and tanning industry for massive financial gain. Fig 30 Lehmen, A (1997) Diverse works

The idea is to create an interactive & immersive social awareness campaign (IMC) educating the consumer by bringing forward the social issue about colourism. Colourism affects people of colour from different ethnicities in different geographical locations in contrasting ways, it is important to end the cycle. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to require education and integration by challenging the exploitation of colourist and racist attitudes

The Big Idea

Fig 31. Ragu, S. Logo. (2018)

The abundance of colorism is a result of the global prevalence of

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Pigmentocracyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; A term recently adopted by social scientists to describe societies in which wealth and social status are determined by skin color. (Olumide. Y-M, 2016)

Route to Consumer - Touchpoints Timeplan June

Step One : Omni Channel Comms Plan Create Website Lauch Youtube channel

July

Print advertisments viewable by public Creat Campaign Facebook Page Start an Instagram campaign using #ashtags

August

Step Two : Holistic Crosschannel IMC Pay Per Click - PPC advertisment on Instagram, Facebook & Youtube

September

October

Machines learning data attribution Seamless workflow across channels

Step Three - Guerilla Marketing Melanin Awareness Day (Annual) Event Snapchat Filters Free T-shirts at event

Campaign value

Campaign essence

Shades of Melanin is a iniciative to reinforce the fact that every person, no matter what the colour of their skin, is beautiful.

Our goal is to challenge the belief that the value and beauty of people is determined by the fairness of their skin.

Brand Tone of Voice

Campaign personality

Campaign in action

Shades of melanin celebrates the beauty and diversity of all skin tones.

seeks to draw attention to the unjust effects of skin colour bias, shaped by societal attitudes and reinforced by media messages and that is corroding the self-worth of countless people, young and old.

Design Recipe Logo

Typography

Glamz

- Heading

Henvetica Neue Regular

- Body Copy

Hevetica Neue Bold

- Titles within body copy

Hevetica Neue Condensed Black - Sub heading / quotes

Colour Palette C - 58 M - 90 Y - 69 K - 82

Beauty Beyond Colour

C - 44 M - 80 Y - 84 K - 69

Say NO to Skin Bleaching

C - 34 M - 73 Y - 94 K - 45 C - 28 M - 64 Y - 86 K - 23 C - 20 M - 56 Y - 74 K - 09 C - 11 M - 44 Y - 62 K -2 C -1 M - 32 Y - 41 K -0

#UnFairandLovely â&#x20AC;˘ These titles must be used across all marketing advertisments and campaigning â&#x20AC;˘ Any of the colours from the colour palette can be used for the titles.

Step 1 The Launch

Every marketer knows the route to true consumer engagement no longer runs along a single path. An explosion of innovative technologies, channels, and formats has created a complex, connected ecosystem where interactions are fragmented and unrestricted. Keeping up with the needs and wants of today’s consumers through the delivery of timely Yet by setting their sights on ‘multi-channel’ communication as an end goal, digital marketers are trying to solve the wrong problem. With so much focus on splitting campaigns across channels, most have failed to notice we have now entered a new world where, for consumers, there are no borders. In this post-channel world, the customer is at the epicentre of all activity and campaigns are not just about maintaining a broad brand presence, but also providing a unified experience that offers plenty of opportunities for cross-selling, upselling, and boosting loyalty.

The “social” in social marketing is not related to its use of social media, but instead refers to the fact that the primary aim of social marketing is to achieve “social good” and in many cases bring about social change. This is in contrast to traditional or commercial marketing where the aim is primarily financial gain. Social marketing campaigns use multiple media channels to reach and saturate a target audience bringing about behavioral change. A social marketing campaign may use social media tools in combination with other approaches, such as traditional media (billboards, radio, TV, etc.), events, and promotional materials, to reach a target audience and bring about the desired behavior change. A plan for implementing a social marketing campaign, will guide development, implementation, and evaluation.

Official Website Fig 32. Ragu, S. Official website (2018)

Fig 33. Ragu, S. Campaign essence (2018)

Unique selling point

Social Meida Social media is quickly becoming one of the most important aspects of digital marketing, which provides incredible benefits that help reach millions of customers worldwide. For an advertising strategy, social media marketing is possibly the most cost-effective way. it is a good way for engaging and interacting with consumers. Communication and engagement with consumers are one of the ways to win their attention and convey them the campaign’s brand message. Shades of Melanin will feature seamlessly across all social media platforms, following brand identity using its assets to keep the design recipe continuous across all chosen platform collaborations for promotions and marketing. The comms mix communication plan for the campaign is to use Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat & Youtube as it’s promotion channels, as they are the quickest way to exchange conversation with the consumer.

“Facebook reported that they now see 100,000 monthly active bots on Facebook Messenger, offering a whole new platform for marketers to connect with audiences.” (Wade 2018) Alongside the website launch, using comms mix, a Facebook business page will be created to target the consumer. Facebook is the only social media with the largest social media users. Recently, Facebook acquired Instagram, which makes advertising on social media a pleasure. Crossplatform attribution is more easily synced and analytics can be accounted for in one place for two different channels of communication. Having social media presence is important as it creates a digital body in the cloud and integrates within the marketing strategy creating footprints on the web leading too more traffic and awareness.

• There are 1.18 billion users on Facebook daily. • People spend on average 50 minutes on Facebook daily. • Facebook produces 50% more leads than any other form of advertising. • 46% of users use Facebook to make a purchasing decision (Dare to be Social, 2018)

Fig 34 Ragu, S. Facebook Profile (2018)

Create Facebook campaign profile

Instagram campaign profile

The campaign will use Instagram as its main platform for communication and promotion. Research proves Instagram to be the strongest social media marketing platform to target GenZ. Shades of Melanin shall own its space on Instagram as @beautybeyondcolour. The page will aid in raising awareness amongst both Gen Z and Millenials as they are the majority consumers of Instagram. Content allows you to be more authentic, we are seeing many brands using their Instagram profile for their best, high-quality content and stories for more realtime content. Because of the nature of stories content is lost within hours, making your followers take fast action and marketers gain from it.

@BeautyBeyondColour

Fig 35. Ragu, S. Instagram Profile (2018)

Print - Poster/video campaign advertisment Fig 36 Ragu, S. London Bus Ad (2018)

London Bus Advertisment According to (Nielsen, 2017) outdoor advertising drives more online activity than any other offline medium. Mobile and outdoor advertising both reach the on-the-go consumer. Brands are now aligning their strategies on both channels to drive more engaging campaigns. For example, the calls to action on digital billboards are increasingly being used to drive some type of mobile activity

4.5 Billion Passenger journeys made in the uk

Bus advertising reaches over 48 million people over a typical two-week period, making it one of the highest reaching broadcast mediums available on the market. It also reaches a far more outgoing audience, having a high index against light TV viewers aged 15-34. This highlights itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suitability for targeting a young, sociable audience.

2.2 Billion Bus trips made on London busses alone

Digital OOH Advertisment Fig 37 Ragu, S. Digital billboard (2018)

Inter- swapping screens London underground station Advertisment Fig 38. Ragu, S. Tube Station Ad (2018)

Fig 39. Ragu, S. Victoria Centre (2018)

Step 2 Holistic PPC Advertising

Fig 40. Ragu, S. Campaign Video (2018)

In a mobile-first culture, video is our main consumption. In 2017 90% of all content shared by users on social media is video. (Wade, 2018)

Now The biggest challenge is how can I capture my audienceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention in the first 3

seconds?

As part of the marketing strategy, a video will be released on shades of melanin youtube channel, which will then we used to create a comms mix by appearing on consumers devices as sponsored ads on their relevant social media. The video in total is approximately 5 mins long. However, only a small portion of the video will be used as marketing snippets, which will then lead the consumer make to either the landing page (website) or the YouTube channel to experience the campaign further with the option of viewing more videos.

Paid Youtube (pre-video) advertisment

Fig 41. Ragu, S. YouTube Ad (2018)

Campaign logo intergrated with advert

Youtube Sponsored Advert Choice to skip after 5 seconds

Paid social media advertising

Campaign Logo Ad poster from campaign Instagram account ‘Pay per click’ (PPC) Advertising

‘See more’ leads to website (landing page) Consumer chooses to learn more about the campaign. abundance of ‘paid clicks’ manifests to awareness of the campaigns cause. Fig 42. Ragu, S. sponsored ad (2018)

relatable, the advertising and marketing potential is certainly worth investigating. Snapchat, Instagram, and Facebook stories have led to the popularity, shared for up to 24 hours and then disappears forever. Brands are now creating content for their social channels as well as having a separate strategy for their content marketing.

20% of business content could be machine generated by 2018.

Shades of Melanin will endeavour to push the (IMC) social media marketing strategy, by applying the same theory that other brands are using for their promotion, Instagram story ‘pay per click’ (PPC) will be the hook into social media marketing to raise awareness for the campaign. As previously mentioned, Instagram stands to be the highlight of digital age advertising. The purpose of using Instagram to promote the campaign is to reach the consumer. Shades of melanin consumer can we targeted directly through machine learning of audience as they can we tapped and pinpointed to the exact precision of both consumer demographic and physiographic.

AI can broadly be categorized as data analysis and online experience customization. These require stimulus materials, such as landing pages on websites or videos. All paid advertisements published on social media by Shades of Melanin will contain a clickable or slidable option on mobile devices, that will take the consumer straight to the landing page (website). Each click will be considered as ‘pay per click’ (PPC) which will be budgeted for. The video advertisement which will appear on users of social media platforms such as Instagram, Snapchat and Facebook stories as sponsored ads by Shades of Melanin

Granter

Step 3 Geurrilla Marketing

Melanin Awareness Day â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Melanin Awareness Dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is aimed to bring likeminded people who want to change the behaviour of society and the conditioning weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been through as a whole, in terms of the way one views skin colour. This day is set to be an annual event on the 10th of October every year. The buzz around the day will be created throughout the week leading up to the big day with various marketing strategies using social media and digital advertisement. The big day on the event will end with an event hosted by Shades of Melanin with its collaborators and contributors, with an interactive panel with Youtubers, on colourism as the topic of discussion.

Influencer marketing is not a new thing anymore. Due to the vast majority of marketers wanting to tap into the influencer market, there are far more challenges faced by agencies and brands. The popularity of influencer marketing has made it hard to know who to trust. Consumers want authenticity from influencers, brands who seek to work with real influencers or industry experts will find a higher engagement rate. Shades of Melanin invites Youtubers like Sejal Kumar, Claudia Sweleki and Lili Singh, who have all published videos on their personal channel speaking up against colourism. Sejal Kumar in fact partnered up with brand Clean & Clear in India, Travelled around the country and interviewed several girls on video and discussion the issue of colourism in India.

Fig 43. Ragu, S. Event (2018)

Spotify advertisement is content curated specifically for ‘Melanin Awareness Day’, The average customer spends 25 hours a month streaming music on Spotify. Despite being a far smaller element of the business, Spotify’s advertising arm has increased revenues by 41% since 2016, (Rodgers 2018) prompting the streaming giant to describe it as a “strong and viable” element of the business with “considerable long-term opportunity for growth”. To explore the possibilities of enhancing its ad revenue, Spotify is working on a number of different formats, including podcast partnerships with publishers like Buzzfeed, sponsored playlists and self-serve advertising platforms, as well as trialling skip-able audio ads and finding new ways to use programmatically. The advertiser picks its audience based on age, gender, location, activity and musical taste, selecting whether to opt for mobile, desktop or both. They then set the budget and campaign dates, and use Spotify insights to track the campaign’s success.

Spotify Paid - advertisment Fig 44. Ragu, S. Spotify Ad (2018)

Homepage takeovers enable you to take over the Spotify homepage for 24 hours; they are made up of a combination of branded background skin and an interactive area, which are both clickable. The Spotify advert displayed on Spotify closer the time of the event for ‘Melanin awareness’ The advert connotes and signify the wider fundable problem of colourism, follow the campaign assets but also anchors the awareness towards celebrating all natural human skin colours, together on the same day. The clickable link will lead audience stair back to the campaign landing page, its’ website; where, all information about ‘Melanin Awareness Day’ will be listed and encouraging the consumer to engage with the campaign be integrating themselves by sharing a photo of themselves with the #Melaninawarenessday

SnapChat Filter

Fig 45. Ragu, S. Snapchat Filter (2018)

Guerrilla Marketing methods coined by Jay Connard Levinson in 1984 is an advertising strategy that focuses on low-cost unconventional marketing tactics that yield maximum results. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about taking the consumer by surprise, make an indelible impression and create copious amounts of social buzz. Guerrilla marketing is said to make a far more valuable impression with consumers in comparison to more traditional forms of advertising and marketing. This is due to the fact that most guerrilla marketing campaigns aim to strike the consumer at a more personal and memorable level.

Guerrilla Marketing will be implemented as part of the marketing strategy for Melanin Awareness day, where a SnapChat filter will be available for users of Snap using its location filter to pinpoint the consumer across the globe, to come onboard and share the cause through the use of the filter in an experiential way.

Fig 46 Ragu, S. Magazine (2018)

10.10.18

T-shirts - ‘Fun theory’ Right now, the slogan T-shirt is unavoidable. The catwalk and high street are full of proclamations, from ‘This is what a feminist looks like’ and ‘Love Trumps Hate’ to ‘Immigrant’

Fig 47. Ragu, S. T-Shirts (2018)

(Guardian 2018)

What are these T-shirts for? Applying the ‘fun theory’ to the campaign is a brand promise, and hence as part of the (IMC) budget, a part of the allocation from the profits gained from ‘PPC’ advertising goes towards printing slogan T-shirts, customised for the Melanin Awareness day event with the collaborators and contributors of the event. Every attendee and staff at the event will receive a free T-shirt. Organic, Fairtrade & Ethical T-shirt Printing All our T-shirts believe in loving the planet and in helping to save it through ethical sourcing of material for printing. ‘Organic’ and ‘Fairtrade’ have become bywords, certainly in the T-shirt printing industry, and many consumers are becoming much more discerning about the garments they buy are wear. Businesses are becoming compelled to consider what impacts their business is having on the planet - both socially and environmentally both socially and environmentally

Costing and Budgeting

Measuring success Evaluate Advocate Consumer sharing selfies of themself without any makeup on social media with the hashtag #UnFair&Lovely

Discovers Shades of Melanin campaign through Omni channel advertisments. Desire to join hand with the campaign and break the shackles and the negtive stigma assosiated with colourism

Bond Inspired by the message the campaign spreads and creats bond and return to help communicate and promote the aim.

Consider

Consumer Loyalty Loop

Consumer notices starts to notice the stark difference between racism and colourism and helps in raising awareness

BUY

Enjoy Consumer attends event and intergrates within the melanin awareness day and enjoyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and has fun with all interactive discussions

Conclusion This report has looked into the consumer behaviour and conditioning mindset suppressed through skin altering advertisement and historical impacts. The damage done through generations of the wrong ideology had to be changed. Shades of Melanin is timely and relevant, an interactive and immersive campaign for the consumer to be inspired by and touches on the key issues that need to be addressed and changed for a better tomorrow. Through my research, I found a gap in the market which is an area which has not been well interpreted by competitor campaigners or brands. Shades of Melanin campaign is empowering and educative. Shades of Melanin endeavours to bring onboard all the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;colour complexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; consumers to feel proud and embrace the beauty of their own true skin shade.

“we’re all alike with the hope of being able to someday love another let’s begin by being our own first lovers because people aren’t made to fit or custom made it’s time we realised love comes in all shapes and shades. it’s time we loved all shapes and shades.” Joha, A. (2018).

06 Index

Illustrations Fig 1 white face paint. (2017) (Online) http://nothingpersonaluk.tumblr.com/post/39302949756 [Accessed 8 Nov 2017]. Fig 2 UnFairandLovely (2017) (Online) http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-india-35783348 [Accessed 28 Nov. 2017] Fig 3 Dove. Dove Ad (2017) [online] https://scroll.in/article/853618/doves-tone-deaf-advertisement-and-theracist-history-of-skin-whitening [Accessed 2 Jan 2018]. Fig 4 Ragu, S. Banksy (2017) Own Image. Fig 5 Fair and Lovely (2017) [online] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq3c59LrcW8 [Accessed 19 Feb 2018]. Fig 6 Figures and Stats (2018) [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5e4gwDGrNk [Accessed 28 Nov. 2017]. Fig 7 Fair and Handsome. (2018) [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APbdP1OZvg0 [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig 8 Sharukh Khan (2017) [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APbdP1OZvg0 [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig 9 Ragu, S. Skin Lightening (2018) Moodboard. Scanned-in Fig 10 Nars. (2018) (online) Available at: www.nars.com/face-foundations [Accessed 2 Jan 2018]. Fig 11 Ragu, S. Survey Infrographic (2018) Own Image Fig 12 Melanocyte (2018) https://www.dreamstime.com/stock-illustration-melanocyte-melanin-melanogenesismelanin-producing-cells-melanin-pigment-responsible-skin-color-image54608996 Fig 13 Skin Tan (2017) (Online) http://www.janinerewell.com/ [Accessed 25 April 2018] Fig 14 Koine Flynn, A. (2016) World Skin Tone Map (Online) http://www.connecteachdot.com/the-matrix-ofmelanin-gradualism-under-the-microscope/ Fig 15 Pears Soap (1960) (Online) Available on: https://www.latrobe.edu.au/news/articles/2017/opinion/dovereal-beauty-and-the-racist-history [Accessed 15 May 2018] Fig 16 Ragu, S. Global Pheonomenon (2018) Moodboard. Scanned-in Fig 17 Tate Britain (2016) (Online) https://www.wallpaper.com/art/another-london-photography-exhibition-attate-britain-london [Accessed 28 Feb. 2018]. Fig 18 Tanning Creams (2018) (online) https://cyranoltd.com/cyrano-home/cyrano_2018_web_banner_v2/ [Accessed 22 Feb. 2018]. Fig 19 Old Pears Soap. (1960) (online) Available on: https://www.latrobe.edu.au/news/articles/2017/opinion/ dove-real-beauty-and-the-racist-history [Accessed 15 May 2018] Fig 20 Micheal Jackson (2015) (online) http://www.celebplasticsurgeryonline.com/michael-jackson-plasticsurgery/ [Accessed 14. Nov. 2017]. Fig 21 Umbrella (2017) (online) https://liftingtheveilinfo.wordpress.com/2014/03/17/an-interview-with-endcolourism/ [Accessed 4 Nov. 2017]

Illustrations Fig 22 Covered Face (2015) [online] Available on https://www.newstatesman.com/politics/ feminism/2016/01/dark-what-behind-india-s-obsession-skin-whitening [Accessed on 3 Dec. 2017] Fig 23 Skin Bleached (2017) (Online) http://mikekendrick.ca/portfolio/dangers-of-skin-bleaching/ [Accessed 5 Dec. 2017] Fig 24 Ragu, S. Makeup Brand (2018) Moodboard. Scanned in Fig 25 Louboutins (2016) (Online) http://us.christianlouboutin.com/ot_en/news/en_second-skin-meet-thenudes/ [Accessed 07. Oct. 2017] Fig 26 Ragu, S. Campaigns. (2018) Moodboard. Scanned in Fig 27 Ragu, S. Joiners (2018) Primary Research. Scanned in Fig 28 Ragu, S. The Colour Complex (2018) Own Image Fig 29 Ragu, S. The Colour Complex (2018) Own Image Fig 30 Lehmen, A (1997) Diverse works (online) https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/diverse_works/ [Accessed 7 Oct. 2017]. Fig 31 Ragu, S. Logo. (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 32 Ragu, Official website (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 33 Ragu, S, Campaign essence (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 34 Ragu, S. Facebook Profile (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 35 Ragu, S. Instagram Profile (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 36 Ragu, S. London Bus Ad (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 37 Ragu, S. Digital billboard (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 38 Ragu, S. Tube Station Ad (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 39 Ragu, S. Victoria Centre (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 40 Ragu, S. Campaign Video (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 41 Ragu, S. YouTube Ad (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 42 Ragu, S. SponsoredAad (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 43 Ragu, S. Event (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 44 Ragu, S. Spotify Ad (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 45 Ragu, S. Snapchat Filter (2018) Own Image. Mockup Fig 46 Ragu, S. Magazine (2018) Own Image. Mockup

Fig 47 Ragu, S. T-Shirts (2018) Own Image. Mockup

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Sanjana Ragu 2018