April 2024

13 reasons we love

trattoria marcella

lasagna al forno at trattoria marcella

APRIL 2024 • VOLUME 24, ISSUE 4

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Lauren Healey

Julia Calleo, Leah Clay-Downing, R.J. Hartbeck, Virginia Harold,

Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan,

Michelle Volansky

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Alexa Beattie, Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky

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Sauce was founded by Allyson Mace in 1999.

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mahalo mai tai at le ono,

We’re here to tell you that the crab fried rice at Indo is the darling of the menu. It’s not in the venerable category of raw fish dishes that the restaurant is rightfully known for, but rather it stands alone as an upgraded, luxury-edition fried rice that is simply too good to pass up. The rice here truly shines as the anchor: plump, chewy and, in some bites, crispy. The seafood brings the cachet, as huge and delicate pieces of lump crab are abundant throughout, along with pieces of fried, candied shrimp that add crackly crunch and a sweet-spicy note.

1641D Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9333, indo-stl.com

hit list

5 new places to try this month

NEON GREENS

One of the most anticipated restaurants of the year has finally opened in the Grove offering salads as delicious as we’d hoped, with super-fresh lettuce grown on-site in a hydroponic farm and an impressive variety of interesting cooked and pickled veggies, grains and more. Start with the delicious chewy cheese bread, inspired by Brazilian pão de queijo. On a recent visit, we enjoyed the chilled curry salad with various greens and vegetables, wild rice, pickled green tomatoes, peanuts, roasted chicken breast, Madras curry ranch, fresh herbs and a lemon wedge. The Chouteau includes oak leaf and sweet crisp lettuces, along with black beans, farro, sweet corn, fire-roasted red pepper, leeks, smoky almonds and roasted red pepper vinaigrette. We’d also recommend the Umami Crunch and the seeded wedge, but we really can’t wait to eat our way through the entire menu.

4176 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, neongreens.com

previous page: the bar at three sixty at westport plaza; this page, from top: the dining room at neon greens; an assortment of small plates at three sixty at westport plaza

THREE SIXTY WESTPORT

The massive new Three Sixty Westport exudes luxury, from the velvet-covered furniture and lavish floor-to-ceiling window treatments to the stunning bar and rooftop patio. The cocktail list was conceptualized by Bangers Only, a local bar consulting company led by the well-respected duo of Kyle Mathis and Tim Wiggins. The Ankle Breaker is delicious, with a mezcal base, dry sherry, passionfruit, Mexican hot sauce, honey and citrus. On the food side, start with cheddar and chive drop biscuits served with creamy honey butter and housemade fruit jam. The grilled broccoli has an Asian flair with sesame, miso, chiles and garlic chips, and we also enjoyed the fresh shrimp tostada with smashed beans, mole rojo, pickled onion and a sprinkling of cotija and cilantro. The housemade Kit Kat is a must for dessert. The bar doesn’t accept reservations, and there can be a long line for the elevator up to the restaurant, so get there early.

111 W. Port Plaza Drive, Suite 1200, Maryland Heights, 314.683.2337, 360-stl.com

PHOTOS BY LAUREN HEALEY

MANILEÑO

The menu at this Tower Grove South restaurant spotlights homestyle Filipino cooking, with dinner portions designed for sharing. Three or four diners can comfortably split the pork adobo, although those chunks of braised pork, marinated in soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves and various herbs and spices, are addictive. Be alert to coeaters who may try to snag some of your share. Rice is so often underappreciated, and it’s worth noting that Manileño’s is excellent, both on its own and as a foil for any leftover sauce. The lechon kawali is another highlight: This deep-fried pork belly has a crispy exterior, but once you bite through to the meat, its succulence is something to relish. Brunch and dinner service takes place upstairs, while Manileño’s ground level serves as a daytime cafe and bakery. Stop by for a range of beautiful ube-based creations – from lattes to cream-filled ensaymadas – as well as strong coffee, pandesal and other sweet treats.

3611 Juniata St., St. Louis, 314.296.3131, Instagram: @manilenostl

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

previous page: manileño; this page, from top: mango calamansi cheesecake and chicken and ube waffles at manileño

TIKKA TANGY

Start your order here with the naan tacos. Two fresh pieces of naan are stuffed with your entree of choice – we recommend the rich dal tangy masala (lentils in masala curry) or the chana masala (chickpeas in gravy) –and topped with crisp veggies. It’s not exactly a taco, more a simplified way to eat naan with a delicious saucy curry. Other standouts from the menu include the traditional Mediterranean plate with chicken shawarma, hummus, pilau rice and butter naan, or the chole bhature (weekends only). Here, the bhature, a delightful puffy fry bread, serves as a vehicle for the chole, a chickpea stew from the Indian state of Punjab.

13441 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 314.682.6066, tikkatangy.com

AMRUT FUSION

The standards are safe bets here, from appetizers like the samosas and the pillowy soft garlic naan to the paneer tikka masala or charred and juicy tandoori shrimp. But fun is where the fusion is, and at Amrut Fusion that usually involves cheese: The dosa quesadilla, a traditional rice flour crepe served with mint sauce and tamarind sauce, comes stuffed with American cheese; the paneer gulistani tikka sees melted mozzarella served between slices of charred paneer squares, all coated with a zesty sauce flavored with grilled peppers and onions. Meanwhile, the crispy momos (fried veggie dumplings), an assortment of chaat snacks and loaded french fries all partner well with the bourbon-focused bar program.

17392 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.778.9380, amrutfusion.com

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

IN THE KNOW

TEMPERANCE KITCHEN

Launched by Mainlander sous chef Max Bredenkoetter, Temperance Kitchen aims to raise awareness of addiction in the hospitality industry. The pop-up’s first two dinners will take place on April 15 and May 20, with proceeds to be donated to Ben’s Friends, a national network that provides meetings and resources for hospitality professionals seeking sobriety.

Bredenkoetter, who has been sober for a little over three years, said working in the hospitality industry presents specific challenges for people who struggle with substance misuse and addiction. “It’s pretty hard to find a niche within the industry where you’re never going to be around alcohol,” he said. Hospitality workplaces can be high-stress environments, and a culture of drinking alcohol to unwind can create temptation and peer pressure.

Support groups like Alcoholics Anonymous are open to anyone facing addiction, but Bredenkoetter said there have historically been few resources in St. Louis tailored to the needs of hospitality workers. “I just wasn’t finding many things that I could get involved in,” he said. Bredenkoetter resolved to change that, and he and Taylor Streiff of O+O Pizza have been instrumental in establishing a St. Louis chapter of Ben’s Friends that is set to launch later this month. The chapter’s first meeting will take place on April 22, with meetings devoted to hospitality professionals to be held at 10 a.m. every Monday at Olive + Oak.

The first Temperance Kitchen dinner will see Bredenkoetter joined in the kitchen by Ben Grant of Bijoux Chocolates and Adam Dove (formerly of Bulrush and Vicia). Behind the bar, Jiana West from The Fortune Teller Bar and Téo Gibbs (who recently launched broth and juice delivery service Chiron) will be making nonalcoholic beverages. “Everyone involved in the pop-up has been hugely supportive in their work and just raising awareness,” Bredenkoetter said.

The first two Temperance Kitchen events will be multicourse dinners, but Bredenkoetter wants to experiment with a variety of formats at a range of price points. “We want to do some a la carte events where maybe you’re coming and getting a $10 sandwich,” he said.

While the April and May dinners have already sold out, Bredenkoetter recommends keeping an eye on Temperance Kitchen’s Instagram feed for the latest on future events.

Instagram: @temperancekitchen

DRINK THIS

The Mahalo Mai Tai at Le Ono is the grown-up version of the syrupysweet mai tais you might have sipped at touristy beach bars. It’s sweet, but not cloyingly so, and packs a boozy punch with less juice than a typical mai tai. This iteration uses Aperol to give a hint of citrusy bitterness. In less skilled hands, the coconut rum could overpower the drink. Here, it’s tempered by housemade orgeat, pineapple juice and a thick topping of mango-infused foam. Le Ono is only a 30-minute drive from St. Louis, but this cocktail – and the restaurant’s subtly tropical vibe – could convince you that you’ve traveled much farther.

101 S. Cherry St., O’Fallon, Illinois, leonorestaurant.com

PHOTO

LASAGNA AL FORNO

13 REASONS WE LOVE TRATTORIA MARCELLA

Trattoria Marcella is one of those quintessential “if you know, you know” restaurants. After 29 years on the corner of Watson Road and Pernod Avenue in Lindenwood Park, it’s still in the conversation among the city’s best Italian restaurants. These are the reasons we keep returning.

BY IAIN SHAW

PHOTOS BY R.J. HARTBECK

FROM LEFT: CO-OWNERS STEVE AND JAMIE KOMOREK

1.

Happy hour is proof that while you can spend big here, you don’t need to. Find a spot in the bar or on the lovely patio from 5 to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Friday for $7 vodka or gin martinis, $5.50 pours of house wine, discounted pizzas, burgers, tenderloin sliders on toasted garlic cheese bread, and more. It’s a perfect introduction.

2.

The thick, steakhouse-style bar burger is an outstanding, unexpected delight. It’s 8 charbroiled ounces of freshly ground chuck roll (also used in the toasted ravioli), topped with American cheese and delivered inside a brioche bun.

3.

The energy in the room is tangible, immediate and infectious. People are having fun here, and it’s hard not to be drawn in. The furnishings become more formal as you transition from the bar to the dining room, but the vibe is equally lively, bustling and carefree.

The staff are great. This is a tight-knit team, many of whom have been with Trattoria Marcella since day one. If you become a regular, you’ll learn that service here comes with a familial quality and the reassurance that you’re going to have a good time.

5.

It’s a genuine neighborhood spot. Besides the reliably warm welcome, the range of price points gives everyone an opportunity to develop their own relationship with Trattoria Marcella. Start with a happy hour martini or a glass of the house red and take it from there.

6.

The light and luscious coconut cream cake from Sugaree Baking Co. is a longestablished Sauce favorite. It’s the only dessert Trattoria Marcella buys from an outside supplier, and once you taste it you’ll understand why this is the exception.

7.

Ordering the off-menu lobster risotto gives you the chance to flex your insider credentials and impress your friends. The dish includes cracked lobster, lobster stock, spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms, butter and a little cream. Next up on your off-menu adventures: Order the shrimp risotto, or the combination lobster and shrimp option.

FROM LEFT: JAMES KOMOREK AND DANA MOORE

8.

The gigantic rigatoni with shrimp, sun-dried tomatoes, toasted pine nuts, roasted cauliflower and roasted garlictomato cream sauce. Order it for the table – it splits easily between four to five diners as an appetizer or pasta course.

9.

The long and varied wine list meets you where you are, with wines available by the glass and in carafes containing one-third of a bottle, as well as in half and full bottles. If you’re celebrating, they also have magnum bottles and even a few methuselahs (equivalent to eight standard bottles).

10.

The lasagna al forno is a freeform spin on a traditional layered lasagna, and it’s delicious. Each lasagna is prepped and baked individually and composed of freshly made pasta, ricotta, bechamel sauce and a ragu made of housemade fennel sausage, ground beef, onion, carrot and celery.

11.

The polenta fries are crisp and golden on the outside, creamy on the inside. On the menu, they’re served with the roasted wild mushrooms in a caramelized Marsala and Gorgonzola sauce, but they can also be ordered as a side.

12.

The tiramisu is another dream of a dessert: espresso-soaked ladyfingers; mascarpone mousse; more ladyfingers; that mousse again, this time with chocolate folded in; a bed of espresso crème anglaise; and a sprinkle of cocoa powder on top to finish.

13.

The crunchy shaved Brussels sprouts are a sleeper hit. The lemon-rosemary vinaigrette complements the vegetal flavor of the sprouts, the toasted almonds add a rewarding crunch, and the Fontinella cheese lends a touch of richness.

3600 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.352.7706, trattoriamarcella.com

SHAVED BRUSSELS SPROUTS AT TRATTORIA MARCELLA

BY IAIN SHAW

B eer Lists We LOVe

Brasserie by Niche

When we’re ordering drinks in a restaurant, cocktails and wine lists tend to demand attention more than other drinks, but beer shouldn’t be an afterthought. The flavors of a well-chosen brew can complement and enhance your meal as deftly as any other beverage. These restaurants take pride in showcasing a range of breweries and styles, the occasional surprise find, and an overall emphasis on quality above quantity.

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

The Bellwether

PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN

Annie Gunn’s

The beer list at Annie Gunn’s may be shorter than wine director and sommelier Glenn Bardgett’s legendary wine list, but it’s a broad selection that puts most of its St. Louis peers to shame. The draft selection features multiple beers to try in each of the major categories, with a total of about 20 ales, lagers, wheat beers, IPAs and stouts offered. O’Fallon Brewery makes an Irish red ale specially for Annie Gunn’s, and Belgian beers and other imports are available in bottles and cans.

16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, anniegunns.com

The Bellwether

There’s no draft beer at The Bellwether, but their list of cans and bottles offers a discerning selection of domestic and international brews. You’ve got well-made versions of simple beers, like Memphisbased Wiseacre Brewing Co.’s Tiny Bomb pilsner, and there are big Imperial stouts with chocolate and coffee notes, like Evil Twin Brewing’s Even More Jesus and Bomb! by Oklahoma’s Prairie Artisan Ales. If you like, you can keep it local with category-hopping picks like Perennial Artisan Ales’ Saison de Lis, Bluewood Brewing’s hazy IPA Arch City Haze and Earthbound Beer’s Irish Red Ale. And if you’re a beer lover out for a celebration, why not forego wine in favor of the 750-milliliter bottle of 3 Fonteinen Braambes lambic?

1419 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.380.3086, thebellwetherstl.com

Brasserie by Niche

The Central West End restaurant offers a well-curated roster of beers that pushes Missouri brewers to the fore, also calling on

a few choice out-of-state and international brews. Stylistically, Brasserie has all the bases covered, with local picks like Heavy Riff Brewing Co.’s brown ale, O’Fallon Brewery’s beloved peach-tinged wheat ale, Wheach, and Missouri cider from St. Louis’ own Brick River Cider Co. The prices are very fair, and kudos also for the nonalcoholic beer selection, which includes a wheat beer, golden ale and hazy IPA. 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com

Bridge Tap House and Wine Bar

If you want to truly explore beer, there’s arguably no better place than David and Kara Bailey’s downtown tap house. The bar features 35 taps and the lineup is constantly changing, but one constant is Bridge’s celebration of the best in St. Louis brewing. Draft beers are available in four sizes, starting with a 4-ounce pour – use these to feel your way around the list’s spectrum of ales, stouts, porters, sours and more. You can also build your own beer flights, or order your beer to go in a 64-ounce growler. And did we mention they have 50 beers by the bottle? The possibilities here are endless. 1004 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.241.8141, thebridgestl.com

Little Fox

In keeping with the restaurant’s modern American fare, Little Fox presents a predominantly American beer selection offering tight curation – currently 11 beers in total – and a good balance between brews from the St. Louis region and farther afield. A dry hopped sour ale from 2nd Shift Brewing and an Imperial IPA from Main & Mill Brewing Co. are

among the local highlights. From out of town, tantalizing options like Off Color Brewing’s Apex Predator farmhouse ale and a blueberry and lemon sour from Prairie lie in wait.

2800 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9456, littlefoxstl.com

Olive + Oak

Lower-ABV beers, bold Belgian brews and heavyweight stouts: It’s all here on Olive + Oak’s beer list. The Webster Groves restaurant’s partnership with Perennial Artisan Ales to create Perennial on Lockwood means Perennial’s beers feature prominently on the draft list, and they’re joined by Scratch Brewing Co. –the Southern Illinois farmhouse brewery’s beers are a rarity on draft in St. Louis, but here they are. Most notable, though, is Olive + Oak’s selection of wine bottle-sized beers, including farmhouse ales, saisons and barrel-aged beers from Side Project, Perennial and others.

216 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoak.oohosp.com

Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery

Nobody would judge Union Loafers if they settled for a beer selection numbering a few commonplace lagers and pale ales. But they don’t do commonplace here: not with their pizza, not with their bread and, so it follows, not with their beer. It’s another place where you won’t be overwhelmed by choice, but you can expect beers from some of the finest brewers in the country –including St. Louis – thoughtfully selected to play well with a little gem salad or a margherita.

1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com

keep on truckin'

7 food trucks worth following around St. Louis this season

BOUGIE BITES

/bougiebitesstl

Bougie Bites is changing the narrative of what nourishing food accessibility looks like in St. Louis – one plant-based meal at a time. Can’t wait for their brick-and-mortar grand opening? Neither can we. In the meantime, they’re slingin’ late-night favorites with a side of flavor and fun from our food truck. Sign up for emails and follow alongon social media to find where they’ll be popping up next. Grab a mouthwatering plant-based burger and savor a taste of new vegetarian in The Lou, Bougie Bites style!

PHOTO COURTESY OF BOUGIE BITES

CAJUN SEDUCTION

/cajunseduction314 /cajunseduction

"Where Bourbon Street meets St. Louis!" Cajun Seduction is rolling into their 4th year operating as a fan favorite food truck in St. Louis! Husband and wife duo Ken and Anastasia Ligé's family roots trace back to Baton Rouge. GG's Gumbo is a family recipe lovingly named after Ken's mom that has been passed down from generations. Gumbo Season runs from September through April of each year, as traditionally it should only be cooked in months that have an "r". Their Cajun Pasta is for the heat seekers! It's loaded with flavor and packs a mighty punch! Add grilled chicken, shrimp or both. Seafood Mac is loaded with shrimp, crab, and crawfish. Their Creole Jambalaya with chicken, shrimp and sausage, is one of the recipes that helped solidify the menu concept. Prior to the food truck, Anastasia was a private chef for over 10 years and this was one of her mostpopular dishes. Follow them on social media or sign up to receive updates via email at cajunseduction.com.

CLEMENTINE'S ICE CREAM

/clementinescreamery /clementinesstl

Clementine’s Ice Cream serves unique Naughty (alcohol-infused), Nice (grass-grazed dairy) and Vegan flavor options. As a microcreamery, all of Clementine’s ice cream must: be churned in small batches; be made by hand; have an all-natural dairy base; be made with less than 30% overrun; be made with more than 16% butterfat. It’s the process that makes our ice cream so decadent! Our most popular flavor is Gooey Butter Cake, with chunks of scratch-made gooey butter cake layered in a rich and tangy cream cheese ice cream and inspired by the classic St. Louis breakfast pastry. Clementine’s has an extraordinary events team to cater any and all special occasions. Choose from a vintage ice cream truck, Spokes & Spoons Bicycle or Ice Cream Station as options to make magical memories at your event.

FARMTRUK /farmtrukstl

Farmtruk is bringing the farm-to-table concept to the St. Louis streets. They partner with local farmers to create classic dishes with a fresh twist. Must-try dishes include the brisket mac, Farmtruk burger, fried green tomatoes, and their Reuben sandwich. In addition to their usual stops at Frankie Martin's Garden, the Tower Grove Farmers' Market and Sauce Food Truck Friday, visit Farmtruk at your favorite local sports event! Find them at Busch Stadium in section 428 in the Budweiser terrace, Enterprise Center section 327, and Citypark sections 140 & 108.

FIRE & ICE CREAM TRUCK

/fireandicecreamtruck

/fireandicecream

The Fire & Ice Cream Truck is ready to bring Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream treats to your next gathering. Their 1946 Ford fire truck can serve any group with over 50 people, from corporate parties to employee or tenant appreciation, birthday parties, weddings, neighborhood parties – the sky is the limit! Contact fireandicecreamtruck@gmail.com or call 314-601-2038 to plan your event. Dates fill fast, so don’t wait!

HOG CALL BARBEQUE /hogcallbarbeque

Hog Call Barbeque's menu is full of your favorite barbecue entrées, appetizers, and sides. They offer unique combinations of classic comfort food and bold flavor, all with just the right amount of smoke, a perfectly honed masterpiece created over 20 years of cooking. Entrées include familiar favorites like smoked brisket sandwiches as well as fun choices like bacon-wrapped hot dogs and pulled pork nachos. Try delicious side like razorback smoked beans, sour cream baked mashed potatoes, and smoked mac and cheese. Hog Call is available to cater any event, large or small. Find their food truck serving at events all over the St. Louis area.

TAKOZZ

/takozzstl

Takozz Truck serves mouthwatering Mexican street food that perfectly captures the essence of Mexico's rich culinary culture, prepared fresh and fast, using traditional recipes and authentic ingredients. From flavorful street tacos and quesadillas to zesty elotes and savory quesabirrias, these delicious grab-and-go treats cater to busy, on-the-move lifestyles. Takozz’s menu features a variety of delicious meats like marinated adobada steak, grilled pollo chicken, al pastor pork with pineapple and onions, birria braised beef, and seasoned chorizo sausage. We make all our marinades and salsas fresh in-house, with a range of options like creamy avocado, green, and red salsa.

“When you eat our food, it’s like you’re eating at our dinner table. These are the flavors of our families,” says Ramon Garcia, co-owner and operator of Takozz. Garcia owns Takozz with his partner, Eduardo Herrera. The two are ecstatic to have expanded Takozz into an additional brick and mortar location inside of St. Clair Square. “This is a dream we have shared together for many years.” The truck is available for any and all events.

BY ALEXA BEATTIE

In early spring of 2020, there was a beacon of hope where Clayton Road meets Demun Avenue: Carl’s light was on. Despite the pandemic in our midst, the old deli was still going. Owner Matt Lewis was still putting pickles into bags, sending pastrami sandwiches out into those earlyon, ice-blue afternoons. “It was a new challenge, but we never once closed,” said Lewis. “People wanted what they knew.”

It makes sense that they came here. Carl’s is a comfy old couch – a little saggy, a touch frayed, but always there, just where you need it to be. Know it by its mossy

green awning, the screen door with its squeak, the neon sign across the window, and the steady influx of customers hoping against hope that the line won’t be long.

It usually is. Come during peak lunch hours, and the line winds through the shop, clogging the gaps between the tables. If you do snag a seat, there won’t be much of a view beyond the belt buckles of customers wishing they’d come a little earlier. Or later. But it all works out.

There are plenty of other sandwiches on this menu, but it’s no secret that the

hot pastrami is king – and that’s what most people come for. Lewis said in the average week, Carl’s gets through more than 200 pounds of pastrami alone, easy.

While urban myth suggests there’s a halfpound of peppered beef in each of these Heffalumps, Lewis said there’s no science to this. He builds each sandwich “by eye,” and after 37 years, the man – who’s been making sandwiches since he was a boy –must know his stuff.

Lewis paid attention “in class” at the hip of his mentor, Bill Carl. Bill’s father

opened Carl’s Deli in the Delmar Loop in 1947. Bill took over running the shop in the 1960s, moving the business to Clayton Road in 1969.

It isn’t glam at Carl’s. Carl’s has nothing whatsoever to do with glam, and there are zero airs here. But who wants them? Who cares that the meat case is a little rough and ready? (The cheese case too, for that matter.) Or that the menu board is yellowed with age? Lewis said he can’t remember when anything new happened here. “Ain’t that sad?” he said. No, not really. Nothing

new needs to happen at Carl’s, and that’s the point.

Lewis estimated that over the course of his 37 years at Carl’s, he must have eaten “literally hundreds” of pastrami sandwiches. But not anymore. “I make 150 sandwiches a day,” he said. “You go off the idea after a while.”

The beef comes weekly from New York. The rye – lovely and soft – from Pete’s Italian Baking Co. on the Hill. Aside from

those details, Lewis won’t give up the secrets to his success – the spices he employs, the “pixie dust” he sprinkles into things.

You can find the world at Carl’s. People from all walks of life come here for lunch, all with one thing in common: a taste for cured beef the way Matt Lewis does it. It’s a fine commonality, and don’t our preferences say a lot about who we are?

Customers like Tom and Eleanor Jennings have been coming to Carl’s

for 50 years, almost as long as they’ve been married. “We used to live in the neighborhood,” Eleanor said. And then, looking a little sad, “We moved to Chesterfield. It’s an occasion when we come now.” She was running her eyes over the menu above Lewis’ head, but really didn’t need to. “I always have the same. It’s always the same for me,” she said.

Others, like Steve Nielson from De Soto, are relatively new to the place. He

blew in the door as though blustered by a stiff wind and ordered two pastrami sandwiches. “One for now. One for the ride home,” he said.

6401 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.721.2393, carlsdelistl.com