May 2024

EGGS MARK THE SPOT

cilbir at telva at the ridge in webster groves, p. 11

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Chris Keating

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Iain Shaw

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Michelle Volansky

Meera Nagarajan

Lauren Healey

Leah Clay-Downing, Lauren Healey, Christina Musgrave, Meera Nagarajan, Michelle Volansky

Alexa Beattie

Alexa Beattie, Lauren Healey, Ileana Martinez, Meera Nagarajan, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky

Kelli Jones

Elizabeth Rowland

Amy Hyde

Sauce was founded by Allyson Mace in 1999.

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EGGS

Wine

PHOTO BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

dolce fuego at frazer’s

The cilbir (Turkish eggs) at Telva at the Ridge is a silky, sumptuous breakfast. Warm garlic yogurt and gently cooked eggs make for a rich base, while a tomatochile brown butter sauce adds a little acid for balance and a flurry of herbs provides a fresh finish. Telva’s signature somun flatbread is served toasted on the side: It gets its crisp texture partly from the many tiny air pockets inside, which also lend space to capture every last saucy drop.

hit list 4 new places to try this month

pink willow cafe

Central West End residents have a new gem in their backyard with Pizza Via, the newest pizza outpost from Scott Sandler. Sandler is something of a pizza evangelist, having opened (and eventually sold) Pizzeoli in Soulard and Pizza Head in Tower Grove East, two cult classic favorites among local pie enthusiasts. Sandler says the currently sparse, simple space is a work in progress; that leaves the brick oven to take center stage churning out handtossed pizzas dignified by perfectly chewy, charred crusts and bubbly, melty toppings. The menu presents a concise, all-killer, no-filler list of seven pizzas, including the classic Queen Margherita, King Pepperoni, White Knight (a sauce-less pie with spinach, fresh and aged mozzarella, pecorino, garlic, lemon, oregano, balsamic glaze, pepper and olive oil) and Mother Earth Vegan (with walnut pate, tomato sauce, olive oil, sesame seeds and lemon juice).

4501 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, 314.587.8000, Instagram: @pizzaviastl

from top: queen margherita pizza at pizza via; mimosa flight with classic orange, pineapple, mango and seasonal blueberry flavors at pink willow cafe

PINK WILLOW CAFE

Cottleville has gained an adorable new spot for breakfast, brunch and lunch with Pink Willow Cafe. The cafe is an independently operated part of the adjoining Oak Street Inn & Lounge, which is set to open later this year. All of Pink Willow’s 1,200 square feet drip with charm, from the hand-painted willow tree mural and fresh flowers on each table to the floral selfie wall and the joyfully pink patio. They use beans from Kansas City’s Messenger Coffee Co. to serve a full roster of espresso-based drinks for your caffeine fix, but we’re there for the bubbles. Don’t judge the Pink Willow French 75 by its sugary sweet looks: Sparkling wine, pink elderflower-rose gin, lemon juice and simple syrup make for a more balanced, tangy beverage than its appearance might imply. The mimosa flight is irresistible, including a classic orange mimosa, pineapple, mango, and a seasonal flavor (we tried the blueberry, but it has recently been replaced by a guava nectar mimosa). The food menu is full of reliably tasty options like the fried egg sandwich, which comes on a pillowy soft brioche bun or bagel with fried egg, candied bacon or a housemade sausage patty, tomato, cheese, greens and garlic aioli. Gluten-free folks will be pleased to see plenty of substitution options are offered, and the menu also includes several “gluten-friendly” items.

5523 Oak St., Cottleville, 636.733.6896, pinkwillowcafe.com

PIZZA VIA

AUGUST THE MANSION

This beautiful Italianate-style family farmhouse was built in 1857 and has been home to several restaurants since the 1990s. The latest in that lineage is August The Mansion, which offers a New American menu inspired by a range of cuisines. Standout items include the kale Caesar salad with freshly zested lemon and a delicious Peruvian chicken dish served atop creamy aji verde and alongside flavorful chile-lime potatoes and roasted cauliflower. For dessert, try the strawberry shortcake made with a ginger biscuit, macerated berries and Baileys whipped cream. The beverage menu takes inspiration from the history of the building with offerings like the gin-based Mansiontini and the Mississippi Buzz (rum, vodka, coffee liqueur, orange and spiced chocolate).

1680 Mansion Way, O’Fallon, Illinois, 618.607.8040, augustthemansion.com

clockwise, from top: shortcake with ginger biscuit; from left, co-owner candice mills, executive chef jessica hickman, general manager alejandro molina and co-owner justin mills; the exterior; arancini; all at august the mansion

No new restaurant opening this year has nailed concept, design, service and menu execution so completely as Esca. The restaurant is the latest from Bengelina Hospitality Group owner Ben Poremba, aided very capably by general manager Jonathan L’Helaouet and beverage director Luciano Racca. The cocktail menu from Noah Davidson presents exciting renditions of classics: the almond Old-Fashioned; a clay pot Negroni; milk punch scented with banana liqueur; and a basil gimlet that tastes like peak summer. Most of the food is prepared over live fire, which demands a certain degree of expertise and control on the part of the cooks. Each dish carries a smoky kiss, but the food never feels too weighty. The menu is filled with gems, like the green salad with impossibly fresh, juicy and crunchy lettuce. There are crowd-pleasing starters like stracciatella with roasted grapes and grilled bread, or the cervelle de canut (onion dip with chive oil and crudites); both are beautifully presented. As for entrees, a recent version of the everchanging lasagna came with a creamy mushroom sauce and a hint of truffle. The lasagna’s many layers of thin pasta sheets weren’t overwhelmed by sauce, resulting in a dish that was rich in flavor yet not at all heavy. Don’t skip dessert, which is wheeled out on a cart by a server ringing a bell. Our favorites are the brioche with whipped cream and the vegan vanilla gelato which is finished tableside with olive oil, sea salt and tahini.

5095 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.365.2686, bengelina.com/esca

opposite page: the dining room at esca; this page, from top: desserts at esca and the stracciatella with roasted grapes at esca

IN THE KNOW

TEE RAK THAI

In Thai, “tee rak” means “my love” or “my dear,” said Tee Rak chef and founder Alada Poodtajan. “I call my family ‘tee rak,’ I call my husband ‘tee rak,’” she added. The name reflects her affection for Thai cuisine, but it’s also a call to customers to come and enjoy her food.

Poodtajan, who grew up in a small town near Chiang Rai in northern Thailand, cooked in a number of Thai, Chinese and Japanese restaurants after moving to St. Louis with her husband, Tom, in 2020, but felt moved to go out on her own. “I miss my home,” Poodtajan said. “I want to do some authentic Thai food for people in St. Louis, because not a lot of people will have the opportunity to go to Thailand.”

For Poodtajan, “authentic” means what ingredients are left out as much as what is added to a dish. You won’t find bamboo shoots, for example, anywhere near Tee Rak’s pad see ew (stir-fried rice noodles). “It’s just egg, Chinese broccoli, noodles, the sauce and protein,” she said. “If they add baby corn, carrots, bamboo shoots or something like that – that’s not what I want.”

Poodtajan debuted Tee Rak in 2023, initially on Tuesdays at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market. A trickle of customers in the early weeks grew to long lines and sold-out dishes by the end of the season. Poodtajan said the response was gratifying, but also drove her to aim higher. On a recent visit to Thailand, she attended a cooking school to hone her skills ahead of market season, fine-tuning her ability to work with herbs, coconut milk and other key ingredients to extract maximum flavor. She said she’s also planning to add more dishes to her rotation that show off the flavors of northern Thailand, things like kaeng hang le (a Chiang Mai pork curry) and khao soi.

Tee Rak’s regular menu includes pad see ew, drunken noodles, Thai fried rice and pad Thai, and there are also occasional specials. Each dish is cooked fresh, right before your eyes, with your choice of protein. Vegetarian and gluten-free options are also available, and Tee Rak now offers a number of frozen Thai meals ready to take home.

You can find Tee Rak at: Tower Grove Farmers’ Market on Tuesday and Saturday; U City Farmers Market on Wednesday; and The Boulevard Farmers’ Market on Sunday. They’ll also be popping up at other locations throughout the season. This month, they’ll be at the Annual Art Fair at Laumeier Sculpture Park on Mother’s Day weekend (May 10 to 12).

teerakthai.com

DRINK THIS

There are certain seasonal markers we just depend on in St. Louis. Fall means orchard adventures at Eckert’s Farm, winter has the brewery lights at Anheuser-Busch, and spring is brought to the plate on Cardinals opening day. At Sauce, we know summer is just over the horizon when we sip a Thai Collins at the first Sauce Food Truck Friday of the season. This brilliantly blue frozen cocktail has been one of the signature drinks at Narwhal’s Crafted since the very beginning, and for good reason. Citrusy and light with gin, curacao, lemon, coriander simple syrup and lemongrass, the Thai Collins is like a grown-up take on a boozy lemonade, and it goes down just as smoothly. The mild sweetness and balanced botanicals will charm even the most gin-skeptical drinker. Topped with a lemon slice, it’s the epitome of easy drinking.

3906 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.8388; 1450 Beale St., Suite 125, St. Charles, 636.395.7315, narwhalscrafted.com

chef tour

WITH RICK LEWIS

Chef Rick Lewis settled back on a high stool in the window of Grace Meat + Three, the well-loved restaurant in the Grove that he co-owns with his wife Elisa, and said he doesn’t get out much anymore. It’s not catfish or tenderly battered shrimp that have clipped Lewis’ wings; he and Elisa are kept busy these days raising Samuel, their 2-year-old son. Lewis’ tour of favorite St. Louis restaurants, then, has a dolefulness about it. He speaks about certain dishes as if reminiscing over a lost love, though he does admit he’s revisited a few of his selections in recent weeks. Lewis said he approves of a shift he sees in the restaurant industry toward simpler fare with fewer ingredients, and he hails the trend of celebrating comfort food from around the world. In no particular order, these are the places Lewis still makes time for, lively toddler notwithstanding. – Alexa Beattie

Mai Lee

“I aim to try a new thing each time I go, which is usually about once a month. But the salt and pepper calamari (muc chien gion, No. 133 on the menu) is definitely one of my top 10.”

8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com

Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions

“I pop in for different reasons, a burger or a sandwich. But I’m a sucker for terrines and whole muscle charcuterie. Pig head, by the way, makes excellent chili.” 2733 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com

Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.

“Elisa and I go quarterly for date night. I enjoy the peeland-eat shrimp over

there, and I’ll typically get a steamer.”

1831 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.772.8858, peacemakerlobstercrab.com

Balkan Treat Box

“Balkan, of course. I can’t not eat their bread, and those little sausages, cevapi.”

8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com

Louie

“We go all-out here: pasta, entrées, apps. It’s simple food done perfectly. Roman gnocco with pork ragu, bechamel and pecorino is one of the most heartwarming dishes I know.”

706 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8188, louiedemun.com

Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant

“This is the most delicious comfort food. I love the Ali Naza

kabob (grilled eggplant topped with your choice of meat). The homemade pita bread is super soft and chewy. Just the way you want it.”

4200 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.390.2020, sultan-stl.com

Saigon Cafe

“This is simple, well done Vietnamese food. I go for the bun cha Hanoi – grilled pork, vermicelli, crispy meat spring rolls and pork meatballs. A good mix.”

10 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.8881, saigoncafestl.com

Pint Size Bakery & Coffee

“The salted caramel croissant is fire. The oatmeal cream pies are nostalgic for me. I was a little fat kid and growing up I ate junk ones all the time. Pint Size made us a bunch of those for our wedding.”

3133 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.645.7142, pintsizebakery.com

Knead Bakehouse & Provisions

“The menu is small, so we kind of order everything.”

3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4361, kneadbakehouse.com

Vicia

“I’m a pork guy. What can I say? I love pork. I think it’s the Newman Farm Berkshire pork I love here. The jus is rich, and it’s a perfectly

opposite page: shrimp toast at indo; this page, from top: oatmeal cream pies at pint size bakery & coffee and the vicia dining room

succulent piece of pork.” 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com

Olive + Oak

“They spoil us here, so we eat way too much food. The braised lamb is rich, and that blue crab gratin is ridiculous.”

216 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoak.oohosp.com

Indo

“We kind of order the whole frickin’ menu. The shrimp toast with sweet chile sauce, the crab fried rice … I need to get there soon.” 1641D Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9333, indo-stl.com

Grace Meat + Three 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com

When Travis Howard, co-owner of Yellowbelly and Lazy Tiger, was thinking about selling Retreat Gastropub, he didn’t want to pass his baby to just anyone. He wanted buyers who cared.

He didn’t have to look far for that emotional investment. It was rolling napkins and buffing goblets behind the bar, and it was on the phone at the host station tracking down Brussels sprout stalks for the evening appetizer. Howard sold the restaurant late last year to trusty employees Sydney and Jennifer Caldwell. And, so far, in Howard’s estimation, his former baby is in great hands. “Those two are good, hard-working people,” Howard said. “I don’t have any worries at all.”

In the last few years, a number of owners have passed the torch to faithful employees. At Baumann’s Fine Meats in Brentwood, Kenny Clifton enjoys “tweaking the smoke” – using different woods, the right flame, experimenting with new rubs for the meat. It’s a skill he picked up from his former boss, the late Jim Lucas. Clifton and his co-worker – now business partner – Jack O’Leary, bought the business last September from Lucas’ widow, Ann, who ran Baumann’s with her husband from 2008 until Jim passed away in 2017.

Clifton left college and went to work full-time at Baumann’s in 2016. O’Leary, who was pursuing an accounting degree at Fontbonne University, started just before Clifton. The Caldwells are similarly bushy-tailed: Jennifer joined Retreat in 2016, working her way from server to general manager by 2020; Sydney took the job in 2018 to put herself through graduate school, completing a master’s program in social work.

Clifton said even though Ann Lucas received a cash offer from an interested buyer, she wanted to find a way to help the boys purchase the store themselves. “A personal relationship with the customers and overall community was more important to Ann than anything,” Clifton said. “Jack and I already had that.”

Both men – you can tell – intend to honor Jim’s memory and Ann’s kindness with shrewd business sense. These are two lads in their mid-20s with fresh faces and interesting plans – but they’re also respectful of old ways and cautious of changing too much too soon. They have, however, implemented a few small tweaks, so to speak. Their changes to date include a fridge procured from the recently shuttered Hanlen’s Fine Meats & Catering in Kirkwood, as well as a new meat case.

Like Clifton and O’Leary, the Caldwells haven’t made many changes at Retreat so far. They suggest that once they have more capital at their disposal, they may focus on elevating the menu a little and making small changes to the interior. They’ve also started experimenting with bar-focused, ticketed events such as cocktail competitions and pop-ups. And they’ll be returning sooner rather than later to the good ol’ days of paper menus. “I hate QR codes,” Sydney said.

A new day also dawned over Big Sky Cafe in Webster Groves when one-time busboy Dominic Weiss purchased the sustainability-focused restaurant from previous owner Tim Mallett. Weiss started at Big Sky Cafe 32 years ago, and his career took in stints at Mallett’s other restaurants – Blue Water Grill, Ellie Forcella and Remy’s Kitchen & Wine Bar – before he returned “home” to Big Sky a decade ago.

Having worked his way from napkins and forks to pan-seared Buttonwood Farm chicken and scallops with truffled risotto, Weiss is a far cooler cat than he was in his early days. “I was young and excited, and I remember getting overwhelmed in the beginning,” he said.

But that was then. Weiss took the reins as chef and owner in November 2021. Mallett, his mentor, was ready to retire; Weiss, not so much. “There’s so much of me in it, the people who are here are family to me and that includes a lot of our regular customers,” he said. “I wasn’t ready to not be part of that.” He said he has no big changes in mind, only to continue Big Sky’s legacy and to never, ever tweak his restaurant’s caramel-pecan apple pie. That pie, he stressed, is the same now as it ever was, the same as it will ever be.

Back at Baumann’s, Clifton, looking a little dreamy, talked about a signature sandwich, and his plans to develop the formula for a standout dressing. It feels like the right kind of idea for this store. When Baumann’s opened in 1946, a movie ticket cost as much as a dozen eggs, just 55 cents. All these decades later, a deli counter in a meat shop offering a few takeout hoagies hardly feels like, “Too much too soon.”

EMPLOYEES TAKING OVER

by alexa beattie // photo by leah clay-downing

from left: sydney and jennifer caldwell at retreat gastropub

FLAV O R S OF

exploring the bounty of local mexican markets

by

ileana martinez // photos by christina musgrave

You can’t easily replicate the vibrancy of a bustling Mexican restaurant, but with a well-stocked pantry, you can create bright salsas, fresh, warm tortillas and much more in your own kitchen. There are plenty of Mexican grocery stores around St. Louis where you can plug the gaps in your own pantry, but first you’ll need a list. To get you started, here are a few of our favorite Mexican grocery items with recommendations from Aaron Martinez (no relation), who oversees restaurants like Taqueria Morita and Vicia as partner and culinary director at Take Root Hospitality, and Angel JiménezGutiérrez, co-owner of Malinche.

CORN

El Milagro Yellow Corn Tortillas, 1 dozen

Ditch the shelf-stable tortillas and embrace freshness. When shopping for store-bought tortillas, look for only three ingredients on the package: corn, water and lime. El Milagro passes that test, and their tortillas deliver the earthiness, nuttiness and pliability you should expect from a quality corn tortilla, especially when heated over a griddle or comal for 30 to 60 seconds on each side.

$1.09. Supermercado El Torito

Maseca Masa Instantánea de Maíz, 4 pounds

(Maseca instant corn masa flour) When packaged tortillas just can’t beat homemade, turn to Maseca, arguably the most recognizable brand of corn masa flour. Jiménez-Gutiérrez invites you to get creative by swapping water for something that will add depth or color, such as chicken stock, fresh cilantro or red chiles. $3.99. El Mexiquense

La Finca Tostadas Artesanales

Horneadas de Maíz Azul, 8.8 ounces (La Finca artisanal baked blue corn tostadas)

Take a break from taco shells. Tostadas are the only crunchy vessel you need for savory ingredients like beans, cheese and salsa. These ovenbaked tostadas are made with simple ingredients that create a clean, subtly sweet earthiness, including blue corn, amaranth and flax seed.

$3.49. Supermercado El Torito

Masienda Heirloom White Corn Masa Harina, 2.2 pounds

After a few reps of making tortillas at home, you might be keen to invest in higher-quality flour that allows the corn to shine. When not using nixtamalized masa and tortillas sourced from local restaurant Sureste at his restaurants, Martinez uses Masienda’s premium masa harina (flour made from nixtamalized corn) at home. It’s not generally available at the Mexican grocery stores listed here, but it’s worth making an exception for: We’ve found it locally at Whole Foods.

$7.99. Whole Foods Market

SALSAS

El Yucateco Chile Habanero Hot Sauce, 4 ounces

One of Aaron Martinez’ favorite condiments, El Yucateco’s line of habanero salsas packs a punch. The bright acidity and intense heat of the green salsa can enhance seafood or balance richness in avocado or heavy meats.

$2.99. Mi Tierra Bonita

Hot Sauce San Luis, 15.9 ounces

San Luis, a mild “salsa botanera,” is typically used as a topping for snacks like chips or popcorn. I use this salsa liberally on my morning eggs when I’m in need of extra salt, acidity and gentle heat.

$1.99. Supermercado El Torito

El Morelia Salsa Macha

When it comes to adding complexity and depth, salsa macha is liquid gold. This chile oil from Veracruz is made

from fried dried chiles, nuts, seeds and, sometimes, dried fruit. The housemade version from El Morelia (find it refrigerated near the meat section) has become a permanent fixture at my house.

$3.99. El Morelia

PICKLED & CANNED GOODS

Doña Maria Nopalitos, 15 ounces

Made from the flat pads of prickly pear cactus, pickled nopalitos make either a delicious, tender complement or a tart alternative to meat. Fry them in chipotle chile sauce or simply grill and top with salt and lime juice.

$2.89. Mi Tierra Bonita

La Costeña Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce, 12 ounces

In a pinch, you can use these canned chipotles the same way you would use dried chipotles: in guisos (stews), salsas and other blends. Just note that the canned variety are made with tomatoes, onions, paprika and sugar, which gives you less control over the final flavor. The adobo is also highly concentrated –a little goes a long way.

$4.99. Mi Tierra Bonita

La Costeña Refried Pinto Beans, 20.5 ounces

While convenient, canned beans benefit from a touch-up. Jiménez-Gutiérrez suggests frying aromatics like onions, serrano peppers or jalapeno peppers before adding the beans to remove that “canned” taste.

$2.29. El Mexiquense

PASTES, SEASONINGS AND MARINADES

La Villana Mole Poblano Tradicional, 1.12 pounds

Mole is often associated with the state of Oaxaca, but it comes in many varieties across different regions of Mexico. Prized for its versatility, good mole can be used as a marinade, a condiment and in many other ways. This blend from Puebla has a deep, chocolatey complexity and features an impressive list of ingredients: Chiles,

plantains, raisins, cocoa, sesame seeds, anise, cloves and cinnamon are but a few examples.

$8.29. El Mexiquense

El Mejor Adobo Para Adobada & Al Pastor, 16 ounces

(El Mejor adobo al pastor marinade) Become the star of your next cookout with this al pastor marinade. The marinade’s orange juice, vinegar and achiote (annatto) tenderize pork or chicken and lend both citrusy undertones and a signature red hue.

$4.49. Supermercado El Torito

El Matador Arrachera

Seasoning, 14 ounces

Arrachera, a skirt steak popular in northern Mexico, is lean and tough by nature and benefits from tenderizers and marinades. The meat counter at your local Mexican grocery store will typically offer pre-marinated arrachera as an option, but if you prefer to marinate the meat yourself at home, El Matador is a dependable choice.

$5.59. El Morelia

SNACKS

Marinela Gansito, 3.5 ounces

Gansito evokes nostalgia for the millions of Mexicans who have enjoyed it over the last 50 years. It features layers of strawberry jam, cream, and vanilla cake coated in chocolate and topped with chocolate sprinkles.

$1.79. El Morelia

Churrumais con Limoncito, 6.5 ounces

A childhood favorite of JiménezGutiérrez, Churrumais are delicate, savory, churro-shaped corn crisps. This snack is popular with children due to its gentle, but addictive, lime flavor.

$3.39. Supermercado El Torito

De la Rosa Mazapán Original, 30 count

De la Rosa Mazapán is a compact marzipan-like candy that replaces almonds with peanuts. Mazapán is both creamy and crumbly and melts in the mouth. While perfect on its own, I crumble it over ice cream or dissolve it to create an inspired iced latte.

$9.99. Mi Tierra Bonita

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE!

eight creative takes on the spicy

BY

MICHELLE VOLANSKY // PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

margarita

DOLCE FUEGO at frazer’s restaurant & lounge

There’s not much a bartender can do to improve upon the simple perfection of a margarita. When properly mixed, it’s an unpretentious classic and an ideal entry-level cocktail that strikes a perfect balance between sweet and sour. National beverage trends have been flirting with adventurous savory flavors for the last few years, so it tracks that the margarita’s next frontier is spice. Whether the heat comes from infusing an agave spirit with peppers, adding a piquant syrup or simply spicing up the compulsory salt rim, the spicy margarita has become a near-requisite on menus at bars and restaurants regardless of genre. Here are eight riffs on the spicy margarita that are catching our attention right now.

LARGE MARG FOR MARGE

Fortune Teller Bar

San Francisco bartender Julio Bermejo, creator of the Tommy’s Margarita, is also widely credited with inventing the spicy margarita in the early 2000s. Bermejo’s OG version started with blanco tequila infused with habanero peppers, but this Cherokee Street mainstay’s version is refreshingly modern, with poblano tequila, hibiscus syrup, blood orange aperitif, lime, cherry bark-vanilla bitters and Squirt soda for a bubbly, citrusy finish. The warm, dimensional flavors and sweetness balance the lightly spicy, vegetal flavor of the tequila. 2635 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.776.2337, fortunetellerstl.com

DESPERADO

Stews Food & Liquor

This painless sipper from Stews Food & Liquor in Soulard screams “vacation mode” with Thai chile-infused Espolon tequila, refreshing pineapple, cooling cucumber and oolong syrup. It’s light as a feather and goes down faster than you can say, “I’ll take another, please!”

1862 S. 10th St., St. Louis, stewsstl.com

DOLCE FUEGO

Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge

Frazer’s is well known for its cocktail prowess, and the Dolce Fuego doesn’t disappoint. This cocktail combines Mexican chile liqueur Ancho Reyes with 100% agave reposado tequila, orgeat, cacao, orange, mole bitters and chili powder for a deeply layered spicy heat with hints of botanical flavor. 1811 Pestalozzi St., St. Louis, 314.773.8646, frazersgoodeats.com

LAZY TIGER

Lazy Tiger

Our list would be remiss to exclude the namesake cocktail at this top

tier Central West End cocktail bar. The Lazy Tiger is smoky, earthy and really packs a punch. Del Amigo mezcal, Rhum Clement Creole Shrubb orange liqueur, serranohoney syrup, lime juice and Tajin strike that ideal balance between sweet, sour and spicy.

210 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.925.8888, lazytigerstl.com

GRAPEFRUIT GIRLFRIEND

Indo

The ever-changing cocktail menu at Indo is not to be ignored. The Grapefruit Girlfriend reads more like a spicy, boozy paloma with kombugrapefruit shrub, Milagro reposado tequila, Hendrick’s gin, Bruto Americano aperitivo and a charming pink peppercorn salt rim.

1641D Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9333, indo-stl.com

METHOD IN THIS MADNESS

Planter’s House

We can always rely on Planter’s House to subvert expectations and reinvent a classic. Method in This Madness combines Milagro anejo tequila with Banana Justino Madeira, Rhum Barbancourt 5 Star, Gran Classico Bitter aperitif, Ancho Reyes Verde chile poblano liqueur and oloroso sherry. It’s an unmistakable cousin of the spicy margarita on a tour through the Caribbean.

1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

OAXACA FLOCKA FLAME

Retreat Gastropub

The cocktail menu is the sleeper hit at beloved neighborhood joint Retreat Gastropub. Oaxaca Flocka Flame is a smoky, tart version of a passion fruit margarita with lovely

lingering spice. El Yope mezcal, passion fruit juice, curacao, Ancho Reyes, lime and mole bitters come together in rich, sunny harmony.  6 N. Sarah St., St. Louis, 314.261.4497, retreatgastropub.com

FALLEN ANGELS

None of the Above

The Fallen Angels from None of the Above at City Foundry STL has quickly become a favorite we return to. The drink makes masterful use of the fat-washed spirits trend, with chile crisp fat-washed tequila, Cynar, cassis, lime and ginger beer. As you sip this sweet-and-sour blend with just a touch of fizz, the velvety consistency coats your mouth with tingly heat from the chile crisp’s Sichuan peppers.

3730 Foundry Way, St. Louis, 314.656.6682, notastl.com

METHOD IN THIS MADNESS at planter’s house

WINE AND SMALL PLATES ARE HAVING THEIR MOMENT AT THESE NEW CONCEPTS

Apéro hour

BY ALEXA BEATTIE

Hospitality pros need to be on their toes, whether by freshening up menus, adding a new service that adds that extra sprinkle of magic, or getting more out of their spaces during the quiet hours.

A number of local restaurants, bars and even a beloved shop are doing all of the above, and though the details vary, there’s a common thread: good wine and snacky, small plate-style menus.

In some cases, expansion means the addition of nice little bites to complement the drinks. Sometimes it’s a lunch spot doing a quick switcheroo, dimming the lights and becoming a place for wine and cocktails. In the case of Parker’s Table in Richmond Heights, it means growth in the fullest sense: an entirely new bar that will serve wine, cheese, meats and more out of a space right next door to Parker’s Table. When we paid a recent visit, manager Simon Lehrer was a little cagey about owner Jonathan Parker’s new venture. We pressed a bit; we wanted some specs. A few seconds later, we were trotting out of the shop, turning a sharp left and going in to check on progress at the new space.

Almost at once, even sans new floor, sans bar, chairs or plumbing, we were forming a picture and dreaming a little. A couple of details fueled this: a lovely old tin ceiling, painted a creamy color, trendy exposed ductwork and some rather distinctive lighting. “It was all about the lights!” Lehrer said, as we gazed up at two very long rows of low-voltage spots suspended on delicate rods. “They are what sealed the deal.”

Lehrer explained that there was a gallery here before, and it makes sense: Those art people know how to bathe a space. We felt soothed. And that was without any wine. So aside from the aesthetic nuts and bolts, what are we to expect of this wine bar? Lehrer was tight-lipped about details, and the bar may not be open for up to a year, but the name is almost – if not quite – set in stone: The Yale Bar is the current favorite.

In early March, Kendele Noto Sieve and Wayne Sieve opened Venetian-inspired cicchetti bar Bacaro in a converted garage around the back of their other St. Peters establishment, Noto Italian Restaurant. During a trip to Italy, the pair fell in love with the bacari of Venice, taverns serving amaro-based spritzes and tapas-style snacks like tramezzini (sandwiches with a range of fillings, cut into triangles, with the crusts cut off). Bacaro’s food and drink menu features classic cicchetti bites, spritzes and cocktails: Noto customers can stop at Bacaro for a quick glass of wine or a spritz before or after dinner, but Bacaro also offers an intriguing alternative to its bustling sister restaurant.

Over in the Central West End, the vegetableforward, farm-to-table stronghold Vicia has hosted Taqueria Morita as a pop-up at its Gardenside Pavilion over the last two summers. But with Taqueria Morita now settling into a permanent home a few doors down Duncan Avenue, Take Root Hospitality is switching up the mood. By early June, the Gardenside Pavilion will be newly conceived as the Vicia Wine Garden. We like the sound of it: Crisp wines and spritzes, snacks and appetizers from the Vicia menu, and a garden of fruits and herbs which – if we know Vicia – will probably find their way into the snacks and drinks.

DRINK S & SNAC K S AT BACAR O

Acouple of wine spots in town have enhanced their edible offerings by outsourcing to Khana, an in-house catering service. Until now, 33 Wine Shop & Bar and Vino STL have kept a narrow focus on cheese and charcuterie, but Khana co-owners Nhat Nguyen (former owner of Copper Pig) and Remy Javed are zooming out a little. “We’ve put together menus based on our travels and respective cultural heritages,” said Javed, who is Pakistani (Khana means “food” in Urdu).

The menus at both bars will rotate regularly. At Vino, you might get lucky and find Nguyen’s mom’s Vietnamese shrimp and turkey dumplings. Meanwhile, who would skip on butter chicken on a naan flatbread with herb-whipped cheese at 33 Wine Shop & Bar?

Meanwhile, Mark Hinkle – who co-owns Olive + Oak and O + O Pizza with his wife Jenn – is sounding pumped. Up until last year, their other restaurant, The Clover and the Bee, only opened for breakfast and lunch. Now it also opens in the evenings, serving wine and small plates Thursday through Saturday, and does so under a different name: Clover. “Yes, we’re calling it tapas,” Hinkle said. “Nuts and chips and cheese.” Later, he offered more expansive examples of what’s on the menu: “A beef tartare with grated pecorino and capers. ... Burrata with winter citrus, pistachio, pomegranate, mint and balsamic.”

As for wine, Hinkle said the focus is on lowintervention wine. “I’m looking for producers that do things the right way – no additives, minimal sulfites and native yeasts.” He leans French with his wine preferences, but is really “all over the place,” he said. Add candles and a playlist that chachas from funk to jazz to hip-hop, and you have yourself quite an evening.

GO HERE

Parker’s Table 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

Bacaro 5105 Westwood Drive, Suite A, St. Peters, 636.244.0874, bacarostl.com

Vicia 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com

33 Wine Shop & Bar 1913 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.231.9463, 33wine.com

Vino STL 4701 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.5665, vinostl.com

Clover/The Clover and the Bee 100 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.942.1216, thecloverandthebee.com

BY LAUREN HEALEY

The weather is finally warming and it’s time to wine and dine. From gorgeous wineries and tasting rooms in the heart of Midwest wine country to wine-centric restaurants and bars closer to the city, here are some great spots to sip some wine this year.

COMPILED

Augusta Winery and Sisters

Located in the Augusta American Viticulture Area (AVA), the first AVA designated in the U.S., Augusta Winery, along with sisters Balducci Vineyards, Montelle Winery and Mount Pleasant Estates, are vital stops for the wine connoisseur and amateur alike. Each winery has its own unique style of charm – from the creature comforts of deep dish pizza and vineyard views at Balducci's to Augusta Winery's laid-back vibe and vine-covered patio. Find live music on weekends at Augusta, Balducci's, and Montelle. Take in the history at Mount Pleasant in their centuriesold hand-carved cellars and try their international award-winning ports. Need sustenance while you sip? Both Balducci's and Montelle will satisfy that hunger into the evenings on Saturdays. Wanna hit all four? Easy! We suggest hopping the Saturday trolley with stops at the wineries and downtown Augusta.

Multiple locations in Augusta, visitaugustamo.com/wineries

Basso

As you descend the steps, you know you have found a restaurant that will delight your senses and lift your spirits. Basso is home to an extensive wine list that pays homage to Italy and provides a wide array of palatepleasing varieties. Home to the best happy hour in St. Louis and nestled within The Cheshire complex, this is a stop everyone needs to make. See you downstairs.

7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7820, basso-stl.com

Copper Fire Bar & Eatery

Copper Fire has a wonderful assortment of wines to sip on, including nearly a dozen red varieties and another near dozen whites, along with a few rosés. The rest of the bar menu is quite expansive, with signature craft cocktails, plenty of beer, and one of the largest liquor selections in the metropolitan area. Don’t miss the delectable food items, like the crispy eggplant caprese stack, Buffalo chicken queso dip, an

array of sandwiches and burgers, build-your-own personal pan pizzas, specialty salads, build-your-own pastas, plus entrees like chicken, steak and pork steak. Don’t miss Wine & Wing Wednesdays when bottles are the price of two glasses with a food purchase.

200 E. Main St., Belleville, Illinois, 618.235.5010, thecopperfire.com

Defiance Ridge Vineyards

Nestled in 42 sprawling acres of vineyards, lush gardens and a tranquil lake just 30 minutes west of St. Louis in the hills of Historic Missouri Wine Country, Defiance Ridge offers vineyard-to-table cuisine, live music and succulent estate wines, as well as exclusive varietals from the West Coast. The winery is open seven days a week year-round. Looking to host your next private event? Defiance Ridge is also the perfect spot for weddings, private parties and corporate outings. The facility offers a spacious layout featuring a wide array of options for guests of all sizes. It was also a winner of The Knot’s “Best Of”

Weddings Hall of Fame 2021, 2022 and 2023.

2711 S. MO. 94, Defiance, 636.798.2288, defianceridgevineyards.com

Edera Italian Eatery

At Edera Italian Eatery, you'll find an impressive list of dozens of smallproduction, handmade Italian wines, as well as Italian varietals from around the world. The list features crowdfriendly, modern styles of wine, with a colorful description of each provided for those who are unfamiliar. The 2017 Costanti, Brunello di Montalcino is sure to be a crowd pleaser: "powerful but elegant, great structure and perfect balance, showcasing how great Sangiovese can be." Feel free to ask one of Edera's knowledgable servers for a recommendation based on your taste and they will point you to what is sure to be your next favorite bottle. Sip in style on their stunning courtyard patio this season-you may just think you're in Italy.

48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7227, ederastl.com

McKelvey Vineyards

Enjoy your stay at McKelvey Vineyards, a historic estate in Franklin County, Missouri. McKelvey Vineyards features a variety of Missouri wines as well as exclusive varietals from the West Coast, farm-to-table fare and live music every weekend. Tour the 1871 stone farmhouse, wander through the vineyards, walk the trails through 62 acres and experience breathtaking sunsets. There are also beautiful patios for all sizes of weddings and special events as well as lodging in Steeple View Manor. Join McKelvey Vineyards for their annual artisan cheese and wine festival in New Haven from noon to 6 p.m. June 1. All cheese enthusiasts will have the opportunity to indulge in a delightful cheese-tasting event, complemented by the perfect pairing of fine McKelvey Vineyards wine, local distilleries and breweries. Explore a rich array of meticulously crafted Missouri cheese, each offering a unique taste experience. 8901 State Hwy YY, Leslie, 573.459.6123, mckelveyvineyards.com

Porter’s Steakhouse

Just east of St. Louis, in Collinsville, Illinois, rests an old-school American chophouse with a casually elegant dining atmosphere. Known for their famous tenderloin sandwich, Porter’s offers a wide variety of wines to pair with your meal. Recognized by Wine Spectator for providing an ample assortment of international wines, Porter’s offers a break from the common path with a casual approach. 1000 Eastport Plaza Drive, Collinsville, Illinois, 618.345.2400, porterscollinsville.com

Robust Bistro & Wine Bar

Robust Bistro & Wine Bar is an awardwinning restaurant that offers eclectic entrees, small plates, cheeses and charcuterie that can be paired with

wines, craft and import beers, and handcrafted cocktails. The food menu is seasonal and uses local ingredients whenever possible. Robust offers a wide selection of wines by the glass, wine flights and full bottles. All wines are “clean,” using sustainable, biodynamic practices, with little or no preservatives; they are better for the environment and your body. Wines are listed by Robust Factor™, a user-friendly method of categorizing wines by body style profile, rather than country or region. Robust also offers a line of wellness and better-

wines, plus plenty of craft cocktails and craft beer. The full-service restaurant offers delightful bites such as elote fritters, crispy Brussels sprouts, fried gnocchi, hot honey flatbread, several sandwiches, and great desserts like bread pudding and tiramisu. Come enjoy this perfect blend of tradition and innovation on their beautiful estate, and don’t miss the large patio overlooking six sweeping acres of vineyards. Tours are available upon request.

15064 N. Hwy. 68, St. James, 573.899.8265, spencermanor.com

for-you-beverages, featuring coldpressed juices and probiotic waters. Private parties, catering, retail wine and gift baskets, along with live music on the patio Tuesday through Saturday, are additional features that have made Robust Bistro a unique gem in the Webster community for more than 16 years.

227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.0033, robustwinebar.com

Spencer Manor

Winery

Deep in the heart of Missouri wine country, Spencer Manor Winery offers a wide array of delicious handcrafted

St. James

Winery

St. James Winery was established in 1970 in the heart of the Missouri Highlands. Since then, the winery has grown to be Missouri's largest and most awarded winery, with nearly 185 acres of grape production. Visitors enjoy wine tastings, wine by the glass, and wine slushies made from the expansive wine list. The winery offers the opportunity to spend your afternoon in The Gardens at St. James, a beautifully landscaped outdoor space that is shared between the Public House Brewing Co. and the winery. The Gardens are the perfect place to gather and relax, and enjoy

the locally inspired Public House menu with the best beer and wine that Missouri has to offer.

540 State Route B, St. James, 800.280.9463, stjameswinery.com

Stone Hill

Winery

Established in 1847, Stone Hill Winery is dedicated to crafting world class wines and is proudly the Midwest’s highest awarded winery. Visitors experience the history of one of the nation’s oldest and most storied wineries on the free guided tour through North America’s largest cellars, taste innovative and internationally awarded wines in the tasting rooms, and take in panoramic views and food on the hillside vineyard overlooking Hermann. Pioneering the re-establishment of Midwest wine after Prohibition, Stone Hill Winery remains a family-farmed and -owned winery committed to continuing the legacy of excellence in winemaking and sustainable native grape growing.

1110 Stone Hill Hwy., Hermann, 573.486.2221, stonehillwinery.com

The Blufftop at Rocheport

Founded in 1985, the Blufftop at Rocheport is a gorgeous trailside vineyard retreat featuring three brands – Les Bourgeois Vineyards, Blufftop Cellars and Rocheport Distilling Co. – and multiple venues: The Tasting Room, The A-Frame Winegarden, The Bistro & Lounge, the Guesthouses-Founder's Point, Trailside Suites and The 1912. With a lavish estate and over 25 delectable wines, the Blufftop is a lively and picturesque place to host special events. Don’t miss the Collector's Series, an annual release of three small-batch wines featuring stunning labels with winning artwork from the Wine Label Art Competition. The Collector's Series Wine Release Party & Art Show is slated for July 13 this year.

Multiple locations in Rocheport, 800.690.1830, missouriwine.com

Noboleis

Vineyards

Noboleis Vineyards is a family- and female-owned winery located in Augusta, home of the first AVA in the country. Grab a wine flight or a bottle of award-winning wine that is grown locally and produced and bottled right on their 84-acre property. Order pizzas or appetizers from the café menu or pack your own picnic basket to enjoy at your leisure. Whichever route you choose, Noboleis is there to ensure that you have the best time. The tasting room, which is open daily, has live music on the first and third Fridays and on every Saturday and Sunday during peak season. Noboleis wines can also be found all around the St. Louis area. In fact, be sure to check them out at CityPark Stadium, where Noboleis is the Official Wine Partner for St. Louis City SC.

100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, 636.482.4500, noboleisvineyards.com

Vangel’s

Vangel’s is a concept from owner Louie Vangel, the grandson of beloved St. Louis restaurateur Charlie Gitto Sr., and a few items on the menu are ported over from the nowclosed Charlie Gitto’s restaurant in downtown St. Louis. At Vangel’s, you’ll find a long yet well-curated list of wines, including some unique Italian vinos and even a few off-menu selections. Expect heavy pours for a great value, and don’t miss the yearly wine-focused events they host. Grab a bite from the Italian-inspired menu and have a glass of wine or one of their delicious cocktails on the spacious, shady patio at this friendly neighborhood spot fit

for any occasion.

10017 Manchester Road, Warson Woods, 314.698.2060, vangelsrestaurant.com

Wild Sun Winery and Brewery

A Readers' Choice Favorite Winery

In addition to award winning wines and craft beers, this beautiful 10acre estate, 30 minutes south of St. Louis in Hillsboro, boasts magnificent trees that are hundreds of years old, majestic rolling hills, a park-like setting and an iconic historic main house originally built in 1870. Founded by co-owners Ed Wagner, an AnheuserBusch alum, and Mark Baehmann, a renowned career winemaker, Wild Sun opened to the public in

September 2015 and has become a premier destination for dry wine and craft beer enthusiasts. Choose from a variety of wines ranging from cabernet sauvignon to fan-favorite Radiance, a dry white wine similar to a Pinot Grigio. Or you can choose from one of the amazing craft beers such as the American Blonde Ale, Sky IPA or the Wild Citrus Ale, a unique, refreshingly crisp beer with hints of lemon and grapefruit. Complement your beverage choices with delicious food from the kitchen or feel free to bring your own picnic basket. Open year-round, Wild Sun features live music Friday nights and Saturday and Sunday afternoons May through October or as weather allows. Follow them on Facebook and Instagram or check out the calendar of events at wildsun.com.

4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, 636.797.8686, wildsun.com

NACHOMAMA’S

BY ALEXA BEATTIE

The realization that Nachomama’s turns 30 this year is a bit like being told you’re three decades older than you thought you were. Because part of me is still back there in the mid-1990s, waiting in some old banger in the drive-thru line for cheese quesadillas and a margarita for the road. But it’s true: The beloved Rock Hill Tex-Mex restaurant – the one with peppers and onions painted on its roof –celebrated its birthday on April 17.

Owners John and Nancy St. Eve are still getting through 15 gallons of freshly made salsa each day, still roasting chickens

over hickory wood, and packing tri-color tortilla chips into flower pots. They say they will never sell up. “That would be like cutting off an arm,” said Nancy, who went on to remember how “run down” Rock Hill was when they bought the place, and how friends advised them against opening their restaurant in this location. Granted, the building had an oily vibe (it was formerly a Popeyes), and granted, the St. Eves were “young and poor,” as Nancy put it.

But here’s the scene now: There’s a 2024 Ford Bronco (not mine) in the parking lot

and a Starbucks down the street. There’s a day care for dogs on the other side of the street, and just up from that, a bellsand-whistles car wash. Amid the dull homogeneous modernity of Manchester Road, Nachomama’s is a gorgeous relic.

But the customers are as varied and as regular as ever. Rich Mulligan – in a tie and workday slacks – was taking a break from his office two minutes away. And Stew, an older gentleman, was in jeans and a plaid shirt. Both men were on first name terms with John. Both were moving about the place like they were

at home – helping themselves to drinks, dishing salsa and jalapenos from the helpyourself bins. “I come at least three times a week,” Mulligan said.

Nancy St. Eve says some people find it hard to stay away, to be without this simple, tasty food for long. They’ve been known to ship fajitas, tacos, chips, salsa and guacamole with dry ice to folks hungry for a taste of home. And some customers, John said, will dash here straight from the airport having been out of town for a while. There’s just something about this spice-rubbed

chicken, the amply sauced enchiladas; the generosity, generally, of the rice and beans and guac.

“From the outside, people assume it has a ‘divey’ quality, but it’s really not that,” Nancy said. “This is homecooked food, a family restaurant.” If by “divey,” she means no-frills, then yes, there is zero affectation here. Features that were here three decades ago remain today: Part of the ceiling is pasted with sections of a Bud Light billboard; the ordering counter and drinks station are paneled in old corrugated iron. The genius of Nachomama’s is that it passes for something more basic than it is, and

does so merrily and humbly. The fact is, the place is whatever you want it to be.

It’s a wonder the St. Eves are still standing. Between them, they can work close to 24 hours a day. John says he was bred for this lifestyle. He has a bachelor’s degree in Hotel and Restaurant Management from Mizzou, where he said he learned how to “conduct himself respectfully in the kitchen.” The St. Eves currently have 16 employees, but for the time being are without a restaurant manager, which may account somewhat for the unrelenting grind.

But when they are not “at the office,” not whipped by the often brutal demands

of restaurant life, you’ll find Nancy in a dress. Not any old dress, but a handembroidered Mexican frock – one of “maybe 50” she has bought over the years from a women’s clothing shop in Dallas. John is probably at home eating the takeout he made earlier. The St. Eves live and breathe this air, which is tinged with the scent of onions and warm chiles, hot chips and woodsmoke.

Although Nancy said none of her four children have any interest in ever taking over the business, there are 15 grandchildren who could assume the reins one day. “Anything other than that is inconceivable to me,” she said.

When we were there, someone popped in just to use the bathroom; they left their car door open and the engine running. No one seemed to mind. It’s the easy way of things here – easy as forgetting that it’s 2024 and you’re not a cheese-loving girl anymore. So I had to do it. Even though I’d placed my order inside (and been offered my order inside), we – me and the ghost of my old tin Lizzie – had to roll around back and pick it up from the drive-thru window.

9643 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.961.9110, nachomamas-stl.com