February 2024

THE BEAUTIFUL ONES

the dining room at idol wolf in the 21c museum hotel

N E W R E S T AU R A N T S A N D B A R S W ITH SUPER B ST YLE

ST. LOU I S’ I N D E P E N D E NT C U LI NARY AUTH O R ITY // SAUC E MAGAZ I N E .C OM // F E B R UARY 2024 February 2024

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February 2024

contents F E B R UA RY 2 02 4

editors' picks 11 EAT THIS Tantanmen at Menya Rui

by michelle volansky 12 HIT LIST 6 new places to try this month

by meera nagarajan, iain shaw and michelle volansky 19 DRINK THIS The Polar Bear at Yellowbelly

by meera nagarajan 21 ELIXIR

features 27 SMOOTH SIPPERS

Listen and subscribe to The Sauce, a weekly St. Louis restaurant podcast, available wherever you get your podcasts. New episodes released each Wednesday.

Three fat-washed cocktails you’ll love (we do)

by michelle volansky 31 THE BEAUTIFUL ONES Five new spaces that stir all the senses

by meera nagarajan and iain shaw 38 PERFECT PLATTERS Three appetizer trays for when you're hosting gameday or just want a little of everything

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.

COVER DETAILS THE BEAUTIFUL ONES Idol Wolf at the 21c Museum Hotel.

Learn more on p. 31.

PHOTO COURTESY OF CHRIS COOPER ARCHEXPLORER

by amy hyde, meera nagarajan and liz wolfson

Inside Schnucks’ West County wine trove

by alisha blackwell-calvert

last bite 48 LANDMARK Dressel's

cilbir at telva at the ridge, p. 12

IMAGE COURTESY OF SPENCER PERNIKOFF FOR TELVA AT THE RIDGE

by iain shaw

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Eat This E D I T O R S ' P I C K S Very few ramen shops in the United States make their noodles in-house, and restaurants offering broth-less styles like tsukemen and mazemen are comparably rare.

Local jewel Menya Rui does both, but it’s the broth-less tantanmen that really has us hooked.

The fresh, chewy noodles take center stage in this Japanese take on Sichuan dan-dan noodles with ground pork, aromatic chile oil, sesame paste and pleasing notes of that signature numbing spice. Crisp strips of menma (bamboo shoots) and a generous topping of bean sprouts and scallions add fresh crunch. Add a generous squeeze of black vinegar for a satisfying tang, and upgrade your bowl with a perfectly custardy marinated egg for an additional dollar.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

3453 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.601.3524, menyarui.com

February 2024

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

6 new places to try this month

KENNY'S UPSTAIRS PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY; TELVA PHOTOS COURTESY OF SPENCER PERNIKOFF FOR TELVA AT THE RIDGE

hit list

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February 2024

opposite page: kenny's upstairs; this page, clockwise, from top: parfait, baklava and avocado toast at telva at the ridge

VEGAN DELI AND BUTCHER Whether you’re vegan or not, this latest incarnation of Chris Bertke’s Vegan Deli and Butcher aims to make sandwiches you’ll crave. The cevapi shows off Bertke’s plantbased adaptation of a southeastern European grilled sausage sandwich, served with sliced onion, pepperoncini, ajvar (Balkan roasted red pepper sauce) and vegan kajmak (a creamy condiment similar to clotted cream) stuffed inside fresh somun delivered daily from neighboring Europa Market. The menu also features vegan spins on classic sandwiches like the Reuben and the Philly cheesesteak, and their hot salami is delicious, with housemade aged vegan salami served on a fresh Marconi Bakery hoagie. The Maine lobster roll is a genuine surprise: The creamy “lobster” salad gets its texture from roasted hearts of palm and shredded jackfruit, which also brings a touch of sweetness. It’s served on a buttered and toasted bun, with Old Bay seasoning, green onion and crunchy celery all showing up to the party. Top it with potato chips for a salty, lip-smacking finish.

5003 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, stlvegandeliandbutcher.com February 2024

TELVA AT THE RIDGE The new counter-service restaurant from the Balkan Treat Box team is housed in the same building as Rolling Ridge Nursery with its own suitably plant-filled space. Start with the wood-fired Bosnian coffee, an intensely flavored brew resulting from boiling coffee grounds in small copper pots. Espresso drinks are also available, including the chocolate- and coconut-accented cupavac latte. On the don’t-miss list is the cilbir, Telva’s take on Turkish eggs: Warm garlic yogurt and gently cooked eggs make for a rich base, a tomato-chile brown butter sauce adds a little acid for balance, and a flurry of herbs provides a fresh finish.

It’s a thoughtful dish, served with Telva’s buttered, toasted somun. The avocado toast was similarly layered with flavor, from thin ribbons of cucumber, roasted tomato, kalamata olives and avocado to salty feta, tzatziki and a nutty sesame crunch garnish. Telva also impresses with deft pastry offerings like the sesameoat-coconut cookie, with a delicately crisp texture, or the unforgettable baklava, generously packed with roasted nuts, flaky pastry dough and ajda, a sweet Bosnian syrup.

60 N. Gore Ave., Suite A, Webster Groves, 314.395.2760, telvastl.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

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February 2024

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

COCKTAIL PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; NOTA INTERIOR PHOTO COURTESY OF CAM KENNEDY FOR NOTA; KENNY'S UPSTAIRS PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

clockwise, from top left: the downpour at none of the above, the main lounge at none of the above and kenny's upstairs

KENNY'S UPSTAIRS

NONE OF THE ABOVE

The old Upstairs Lounge on South Grand was a place of legendarily wild tales, but its fresh new life as Kenny’s Upstairs is a net positive for all. The rehabbed space is an ideal neighborhood hangout, lined with cozy vinyl booths bathed in glowy red light. The concise cocktail menu belies the expertise of veteran bartender and owner Kenny Marks. Available with either gin or vodka, Kenny’s World Famous Pickle Martini is distinguished by a savory, housemade pickled vermouth. Familiar domestic beers are supplemented by a few wisely chosen craft brews – this is St. Louis, after all. Elevate that Miller High Life by upgrading to the Champagne (of Beer) Cocktail, which adds Aperol, lemon and a dash of bitters to the smooth sipper. No one can resist the charming Baby Beer Shots, served in tiny beer mugs and topped with heavy whipping cream. Choose between a “lager” with Licor 43 or “stout” with Fernet Branca and coffee liqueur. We look forward to plenty of new – less blurry – nightlife memories.

A red light above an unmarked door marks the entrance to this luxe speakeasy by Gerard Craft’s Niche Food Group. After you traverse a long tunnel, another door gives way to a sophisticated bar with navy furniture, dark wood accents and dim lighting.

Bar manager Fionna Gemzon’s cocktail program is filled with inventive surprises – and worth the potential wait. The Desert Flower is fruity and spicy, with Armagnac, agave-based aqara and sotol, pineapple, and a biryani tincture infused by Gemzon herself. The balanced, earthy In the Mood for Love combines black sesame rye with pimento dram (an allspice liqueur), cumin, coriander and citrus. Meanwhile, the Pg. 28 arrives in dramatic fashion, topped by a smoke bubble that signals the key note in the cocktail’s blend of rye, Sfumato, Cardamaro and tobacco bitters.

There’s no kitchen, but the bar’s small selection of snacks includes highlights like chilled smoked mussels served with crackers and an irresistible charred scallion dip with kettle chips.

3131 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, kennysupstairs.com

3730 Foundry Way, St. Louis, 314.656.6682, notastl.com

February 2024

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

clockwise, from top: the dining room at jinzen fusion cuisine; drinks at hidden gem; the bar at hidden gem

JINZEN PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; HIDDEN GEM PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

JINZEN FUSION CUISINE Clayton newcomer Jinzen puts you at ease even before you’re seated, with an attractive, calming interior.

The design reflects the restaurant’s Japanese, Korean and Chinese influences, with wooden furnishings, earth tones, sudare blinds and assorted plants (artificial, but we’re not complaining), and the menu celebrates that trio of cuisines with similar style.

Naengmyeon (buckwheat noodles served in a chilled sour-sweet broth, with julienned cucumbers, slices of beef and a hard-boiled egg) is rarely found in St. Louis restaurants, but Jinzen’s rendition stands on its own merit. Inspired by the way co-owner Lynn Li’s father cooked fried rice at home in China’s Guizhou province, the volcano fried rice blends the addictive flavors of kung pao chicken and fried rice with a dash of theatrical flair, as beaten eggs are poured onto a sizzling plate to encircle the mound of rice. There are crowd-pleasers like the bibimbap, black pepper garlic steak bites and squid karaage, as well as various ramen options. Mix and match the cuisines however you please, but don’t miss out on the luscious, creamy matcha pudding.

8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.354.8086, jinzenstl.com February 2024

HIDDEN GEM This Midtown “disco dive bar” from local lifestyle brand Golden Gems brings their ethos vividly to life for fun nights out with a cocktail in hand.

Spread across two floors, the space is a riot of baby pink furnishings, seemingly endless disco balls, and marquee-style signs displaying slogans that might raise a smile or offer timely reminders like “You are a fucking gem.” A similar blend of feminist wit and empowerment permeates the names on the cocktail list, but the drinks speak for themselves. The Wicked Woman is a cinnamon-infused twist on an Old-Fashioned, while the Smoke Show balances a mezcal base with orange, lime and pineapple juice, agave and Angostura bitters. Order the Bootscootin Boogie for a beer served in a cowboy boot-shaped glass (an unexpected delight) alongside a shot of Old Crow. Non-drinkers can sip on a Spicy Rita (lemon and lime juice, Fresca, jalapeno simple syrup and dehydrated orange garnish) or build their own NA drink with a range of housemade fruity and herbal syrups.

3118 Locust St., St. Louis, Instagram: hiddengemstl saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

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February 2024

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

DRINK THIS

PHOTO BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

The Polar Bear at Yellowbelly drinks smooth and sophisticated, with each ingredient getting its moment to make an impression. The star is the Derrumbes, a mezcal verde distilled in San Luis Potosi, Mexico, that anchors the drink with a vegetal flavor – think charred poblano rather than sweet smoke. The supporting ingredients play off the mezcal: A plum sake leans dry, but adds floral juiciness to the overall profile; a dose of Lillet Blanc gives body and length to the cocktail; and lime acid and clarified orange sherbet deliver varying levels of citrus. Finishing notes include honey, anise and herbs from Liquore Strega and a tingle of heat from a couple drops of a bird’s eye chile and MSG tincture.

4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.499.1509, yellowbellystl.com February 2024

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

About 15 years ago,

Dave Birkenmeier, then store manager at Schnucks’ Lindbergh location, and Scott Schnuck, then CEO of Schnucks, recognized the need to expand the store’s wine range beyond its core selection.

One of their goals was to venture into rare and highly sought-after bottlings. Birkenmeier’s innovation was the creation of the store’s wine room, or “reserve room,” which is distinctive not just among Schnucks stores in St. Louis, but also in the grocery business in general.

Gitto, a certified wine educator and one of only nine advanced sommeliers in the St. Louis area, is the reserve room’s cellar master and primary keyholder. The space features wines from all around the world, with countries like Portugal, Spain and Argentina just a few of the destinations represented. However, Gitto said any wine selected for the reserve room has to earn its place. “It’s about getting the best wines out there, focusing on the best of what France, Italy and the U.S. have to offer,” he said.

The room is a 12- by 12-foot space lined with rare finds. In the center of the room lie stacks of wooden boxes, many containing rare and allocated wines that are a collectors’ dream.

The wines are cataloged with library-like precision, and Stephen Gitto, manager of the liquor department at the Lindbergh store, navigates the impressive selection with expertise, capably explaining the lore behind each label.

The chalky vineyard of Clos des Goisses is arguably one of the best sites in the Champagne region of France. The 2014 Clos de Goisses – a rare, sparkling treat by the celebrated producer Philipponnat – was the first luxury item I spotted upon entering the reserve room.

The oldest vintage bottle is a 1965 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva, a Sangiovese library release from Tuscan winery Badia a Coltibuono.

BURIED TREASURE INSIDE SCHNUCKS’ WEST COUNTY WINE TROVE // BY ALISHA BLACKWELL-CALVERT stephen gitto in the reserve room

The most expensive? At the moment, a Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 2020 retails for $2,200. The price tag can be even higher for bottles from prestigious Burgundy winery Domaine de la Romanee-Conti – at least, if you can find one. “We do get those things, but they don’t hang around,” Gitto said. “The last time they came, they were gone within a couple of hours.”

Premium wines fill the reserve room, but there are some values nestled among the stacks. Gitto and I agree that the most approachable find is the 2018 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Blanc, made with 100% Burgundian Chardonnay. At $30, it’s an excellent accompaniment to pork, seafood and great conversation.

The reserve room alone holds 2,800 bottles, but Gitto manages a much larger inventory out on the main store floor, ranging from still reds and whites to sparkling, fortified, dessert, alcoholfree and kosher options. The Lindbergh store offers an elevated selection compared to other Schnucks locations, giving the shopper a deeper dive beyond the big box labels and wines that are widely available in other stores. “(The Lindbergh location) crosses several niches and blurs the differences between different types of outlets,” Gitto said. “Most big box retailers do not do fine wine business, while fine wine shops typically don’t carry big box wines. It’s like having two businesses in one.”

Gitto is the ideal person for managing the task. In addition to his certifications as a wine professional, he’s a trained chemist and briefly taught high school chemistry. His wealth of knowledge enables him to explain everything from the intricacies of the crus of Barolo, Italy, to the nuances of Napa Valley vintages.

I enjoyed watching his interactions with customers, simultaneously unpretentious and generous with his knowledge.

PHOTO BY VIRGNIA HAROLD

The reserve room is available during business hours and can only be accessed by a manager, but I recommend taking advantage of Gitto’s exemplary knowledge if he’s available. Gitto’s schedule varies, but he’s typically in the store five days a week during daytime hours.

Schnucks Lindbergh, 10275 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.991.0510, schnucks.com Alisha Blackwell-Calvert is an advanced sommelier at Madrina.

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PA R T N E R C O N T E N T

y

ou know what they say – brunch is the most important meal of the day.

Here are several spots around town with some delicious options.

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON FOR LITTLE FOX

LITTLE FOX

February 2024

Get a fresh start to your year at Fresh Thyme Little Fox offers an amazing weekend brunch with some of the most popular dishes including the green tomato Benedict with fluffy hollandaise and fried basil, housemade spam and ricotta pancakes. Every Saturday, there’s a one-day-only, in-house special.

Food specials will be announced the week of on Instagram and include features like Okonomiyaki and raclette hash. Don’t miss the incredible selection of brunch cocktails and mocktails.

2800 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9456, littlefoxstl.com saucemagazine.com saucemagazine.comI SAUCE I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI 23 I3

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BAGEL UNION In general, Bagel Union is the definition of brunch. Open with the sun, but lingering into the afternoon, guests can find simplicity or complexity to their liking. Savory seekers will relish in the tzitzlenickel bagel (a pumpernickeltzitzle rye hybrid) with Tracklements lox cream cheese, topped with dill and capers. For those exploring their sweet tooth, Bagel Union’s signature cherry crunch bagel is delightful with whipped Sierra Nevada cream cheese, but the storefront has an assortment of other crowd-pleasing offerings. Look for special offerings added to the menu frequently.

8705 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.320.7556, bagel-union.com

Immerse yourself in a taste of Paris at the original Creperie – an experience that stands unparalleled.

36 N. Brentwood Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.2489, citycoffeecreperie.com

CITY WINERY Indulge your senses with City Winery’s unique blend of wine, music, dining and private events. City Winery’s stage hosts legendary artists and local

CYRANO’S CAFE

HELLO JUICE & SMOOTHIE

Cyrano’s serves a delightful brunch menu every Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Specialty items include a Sugarfire pulled pork hash and a brioche French toast. They also offer lunch salads and sandwiches, like their special roast beef.

Full dessert menus, including bread pudding, are available during brunch, and you won’t want to miss special $5 mimosas, bellinis and bloody marys.

There’s also a full coffee menu available

Hello Juice offers a wide variety of nutritious and delicious breakfast and brunch offerings, including seasonal waffles such as apple-cinnamon, lemon-blueberry, pumpkin spice and chocolate chip. They also have protein-packed bento boxes from a prepared foods line, Hello Eats, including the Breakfast Bento with lactose-free greek yogurt, passionfruit caviar, granola and fruit, as well the Avocado Fudge Box. The Hello Eats line also offers egg bites with eggs, ground bison, mozzarella, greek yogurt, shredded potatoes, spinach and peppers, along with a toast menu with avocado toast, hummus toast and the Cinnamon Toast Crunch.

1000 S. Newstead Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4135; 10463 Manchester Road, Suite F, Kirkwood, 314.394.0236, hellojuiceandsmoothie.com

CLARA B’S KITCHEN TABLE Clara B’s is a Texas- and Southerninspired restaurant specializing in from-scratch fare made with local ingredients offering counter service in a shared space with LongStory Coffee. Menu items such as chili and eggs, a loaded breakfast burrito, biscuit and duck fat gravy and shrimp and grits gets people in the door, but the staff and attention to flavor keeps them coming back. From housemade breads to smoked meats, they pride themselves on eclectic flavor profiles using chef Jodie Ferguson’s upbringing as inspiration. Texan, Deep South, Creole and Tex-Mex are the trademarks, but you’ll see other influences sprinkled in, whether for breakfast or a five-course supper club meal. They also offer catering and have a food truck that helped them get to where they are today.

732 S. Illinois St., Belleville, 618.416.1812, clarabs.com

CITY COFFEE & CREPERIE City Coffee & Creperie is St. Louis’ original French creperie that serves both savory and sweet crepes on original white flour or organic, glutenfree buckwheat flour. For those seeking alternatives to crepes, a tempting array of quiches, sandwiches, soups, salads, rich coffees, espressos, teas and smoothies are also available.

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HONEY BEE BISCUITS + GOOD EATS Honey Bee Biscuits + Good Eats has a delicious assortment of brunch-style offerings, including mini biscuits and gravy topped with Red Hot Riplets and green onions, along with mini chocolate chip biscuits for a sweet option. The restaurant also offers other great items like breakfast sandwiches, French toast, coffee drinks and more.

200 US-67, Kirkwood, 314.650.0762, honeybeesbg.com

HONEY BEE TEA favorites alike. Enhance your concertgoing experience with a menu of locally sourced food and world-class wine. The menu thoughtfully pairs curated wines with delectable small plates made for sharing. The versatile venue is also the perfect setting for celebrations, gatherings and corporate functions. From elegant decor to impeccable service, they create the ideal atmosphere for your private event, leaving you with cherished memories that last a lifetime.

3730 Foundry Way Suite 158, St. Louis, 314.678.5060, citywinery.com/st-louis

featuring Blueprint Coffee.

603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3232, cyranos.com

HATCH’D Open in the former home of Quincy Street Bistro, Hatch’d has an assortment of brunch offerings, including delicious meats smoked in-house, cocktails with every spirit, some of the best pancakes in St. Louis, locally made beers and a fantastic smash burger. While you’re there, check out the eclectic collection of coffee mugs and local art.

6931 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.448.1642, hatchdstl.com

This family-owned premium boba tea and dessert shop has locations in Manchester, Brentwood, St. Charles and Oakville. All their drinks are created from scratch with an emphasis on quality, using the finest and freshest organic ingredients from Taiwan.

They sell many types of fruit and milk teas, including the signature Okinawa milk tea with toasted creme brulee, tiger sugar boba milk tea and fresh passionfruit tea. They also have fresh fruit smoothies, Vietnamese coffee, matcha tea drinks and more. Besides your traditional boba, there are over 15 other toppings to choose from.

Multiple locations, honeybt.com February 2024 2024 February

PA R T N E R C O N T E N T

PHOTO BY KEVIN ROBERTS FOR HATCH'D

KALDI’S COFFEE ROASTING CO. Enjoy Kaldi's any way you brunch. Visit one of their 11 St. Louis-area cafes, order ahead and take to wherever you gather, or brew their coffee at home as you host. In addition to a variety of coffee drinks, there are smoothies, toasts, salads, bowls, burritos, sandwiches and more. Download the Toast app and be sure to sign up for the loyalty program to earn rewards.

Order Kaldi’s coffee on their website or find it at area Schnucks, Dierbergs, Straub’s, Whole Foods and Costco.

Check out at home recipes to wow your guests at kaldiscoffee.com/blogs/ recipes. You can also find a location list online.

Multiple locations, kaldiscoffee.com/pages/cafe-menus

KINGSIDE DINER This modern American diner with a stylish chess-themed design has four locations: Central West End, Clayton, the Delmar Loop, and the Lambert International Airport, and is known for inventive brunch fare like the breakfast sandwich with scrambled eggs and

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bacon on a croissant, topped with sausage and thyme gravy and cheddar cheese. They also have build-your-own omelets and breakfast burritos, along with mimosa flights. Don’t miss the third-shift happy hour with discounts on mimosas, bloody marys and more – weekdays until 10:30 a.m. and on the weekends in Clayton. The CWE location is open late Wednesday through Saturday for “Kingside After Dark” when they serve a creative and slightly elevated diner dinner menu from 4 to 10 p.m.

Multiple locations, kingsidediner.com

SOCIAL GRAZE Step into a brunch affair like never before with these delectable, stunning charcuterie graze tables, where indulgence meets sophistication.

Picture an array of artisanal cheeses, premium cured meats and delightful brunch-inspired accoutrements, artfully arranged to create a feast for both the eyes and the palate.

From velvety camembert to smoky chorizo, these charcuterie graze tables redefine brunch indulgence. Whether it's a leisurely weekend affair or a

special celebration, let the flavors mingle and the conversations flow, making your brunch a symphony of taste and sophistication. socialgrazestl.com

SOUTHSIDE ALCHEMY Southside Alchemy boasts both spicy and mild bloody mary mixes, both of which are low-sodium and glutenfree. And with the perfect spice level, you only need to add a bit of acid like citrus or pickle juice. The awardwinning mild is served by the glass at many spots around town, including Anthonino’s Taverna, Winslow's Table, The Mud House, Calypso Spirits Bar, The Boathouse at Forest Park, Pie Guy, Vicia and more. Both mixes are also available for purchase at retailers such as Randall's Wine & Spirits, Civil Alchemy, Parker's Table, The Wine and Cheese Place, Schnucks and Southside Wine and Spirits. southsidealchemy.com

SUNDAY BEST Formerly known as Juniper, Sunday Best has some crowd-pleasers on

its current brunch menu, including chicken and waffles, along with a buttermilk bread pudding with duck fat caramel. Don’t miss their spicy, fun take on the bloody mary with potlikker and mezcal. You’ll also find an assortment of fried chicken, as well as a few salads, mac and cheese, collard greens, a smash burger and some incredible sweets including milkshakes.

4101 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.329.7696, sundaybestchicken.com

THE CLOVER AND THE BEE The classic breakfast sandwich with egg, peppered bacon and cheese on potato bun is a highly popular choice, but the brown butter blondie swirled with cookie butter shouldn’t be missed either. The menu also includes savory white cheddar grits, amazing salads and delicious deli sandwiches to an assortment of pastries such as the cream puff flight, morning bun and cinnamon roll. Look out for the graband-go cheeseburger turnover and the labneh bowl.

100 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.942.1216, thecloverandthebee.com February 2024 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

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SMOOTH SIPPERS Three fat-washed cocktails you’ll love (we do) by michelle volansky // photos by christina musgrave

the fallen angels cocktail from none of the above

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Fat-washed cocktails are making cameos on drink menus across St. Louis this season. This clever technique’s popularity first trickled down from New York City in the late 2000s, when bartenders took inspiration from the enfleurage method developed by 18th century perfume makers to extract fragrance. That first wave of fatwashed cocktails soon saw trendy spots become overrun with greasy, bacon fat-washed bourbon concoctions, but fast forward to 2024 and local bartenders are taking the method and running with it in creative new ways.

Fat-washing can add savory flavor and smooth, rich texture to spirits without adding thickness or heaviness. Some fats, like coconut oil, can also add sweeter, tropical notes. A liquid fat like oil or butter is added to alcohol at room temperature and left to steep for a few hours. Next, the mixture is chilled. When the fat solidifies, it can be skimmed off, leaving only the flavorinfused spirit and its newly silky mouthfeel.

Proving that not all fat-washed cocktails go for a savory vibe, the Chicken Fried Daiquiri from the new bar at Pie Guy in the Grove adds an extra dimension to a tiki classic. Plantation pineapple rum is fat-washed with seasoned and rendered chicken skins, then mixed with fresh lime and pineapple gomme syrup. The sweet acidity is balanced with salty umami and luxe texture.

The Fallen Angels from None of the Above at City Foundry STL is reminiscent of a spicy margarita with chile crisp fat-washed tequila, Cynar, cassis, lime and ginger beer. As you sip this sweet-and-sour blend with just a touch of fizz, the velvety consistency coats your mouth with tingly heat from the chile crisp’s Sichuan peppers.

Pleasant surprises abound on the unexpectedly thoughtful cocktail menu at Rockwell Beer Co. The Great Bambino is a delightful take on a negroni, with peanut butter fat-washed dry gin, acid-adjusted Concord grape cordial, rouge vermouth, vanilla-infused Campari and Amaro Nonino. A nutty aroma greets you at every sip, then fades into the background as classic sweet-bitter flavors from the amari take center stage. The back end is all peanut butter, with intensely rich flavor and a buttery finish that will have you licking your lips.

Pie Guy, 4189 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0444, pieguystl.com None of the Above, 3730 Foundry Way, St. Louis, 314.656.6682, notastl.com Rockwell Beer Co., 1320 S. Vandeventer Ave., St. Louis, 314.256.1657, rockwellbeer.com

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BY MEER A NAGAR AJAN AND IAIN SHAW

Five new spaces that stir all the senses

THE

PHOTO COURTESY OF CHRIS COOPER ARCHEXPLORER

ONES

I D O L WO L F AT 2 1C MUSEUM HOTEL February 2024

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T H E B A R AT I D O L WO L F AT 2 1C MUSEUM HOTEL

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TIM'S CH ROME BAR

Idol Wolf

Stunning design is part of the deal with 21c Museum Hotels, and there are few more gorgeous spaces in St. Louis right now than this Spanish restaurant inside 21c’s St. Louis property. The restaurant is divided into two distinct areas. First, you’ll encounter the bright lounge with a tiled horseshoe bar at the center.

Sip on a glass of wine or a sangria at the bar, admire the high ceilings and take in the scale of the art pieces that hang from the walls. You can also order dinner in the lounge, which opens out onto the hotel lobby, but we love the relative seclusion of Idol Wolf ’s dining room. This cavernous yet intimate space blends a varied assortment of elements with equal parts audacity and skill. One highlight is the textured coral-pink ceiling with recessed lighting, which appears to have been placed at random, creating the feel of a starry night sky. A herringbone tile floor, wooden wall paneling, floral-patterned upholstery and ceramic tiles in various shades of red add further color and texture. The “wall” of twisted brown leather straps is another immediately recognizable touch, catching the light to lend the space an earthy glow.

IDOL WOLF PHOTO COURTESY OF CHRIS COOPER ARCHEXPLORER; TIM'S CHROME BAR PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

1528 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.325.0360, idolwolfstl.com

Tim’s Chrome Bar

Tim’s Chrome Bar has been a fixture in Bevo since 1977, but the past two years have kicked off a new era, with a change of ownership and a complete renovation giving the bar an entirely fresh identity.

The retro-maximalist theme is unlike anywhere else in the city, and it’s clear every opportunity was taken to bring warmth and detail to the space. There’s charm, color and character literally everywhere you look, from the plaid wallpaper and the 3D floor tiling to the ceiling’s floral cutouts and the funky lamps illuminating the leopard print walls behind the bar. For the best seat in the house, seek out the cozy seating area by the old-school Malm fireplace in the back and pull up a comfy mid-century-inspired chair and a vintage TV tray.

4736 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, timschromebar.com

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None of the Above (NOTA) Navy blue walls, dark wood features and the copper-hued drop ceiling set an elegant tone at Niche Food Group’s upscale speakeasy, but it’s the little things that stay with you. The mood lighting is fine-tuned to draw your gaze to those exquisite details, lending the space a cinematic quality. Every feature of The Lawrence Group’s thoughtful design, from the patterned rugs and knowingly mismatched chairs to the mood lighting and framed art, adds an extra note of sophistication. The hidden back room, The Library, is equally well-appointed, with a twist of intimacy and coziness.

3730 Foundry Way, St. Louis, 314.656.6682, notastl.com

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IMAGE COURTESY CAM KENNEDY FOR NOTA

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BONITO BAR

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BONITO BAR PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; BAR MORO PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

BAR MORO

Bonito Bar

Bar Moro

622 North and South Road, University City, 314.727.6500, eatatfridas.com

7610 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, bengelina.com/bar-moro

Tucked away in a corner of Frida’s, the small but mighty Bonito Bar is filled with memorable design moments. In this gem of a space, all the details stand out – and each is thoughtfully curated. The first thing you’ll notice is the golden ceiling and rich emerald green walls, a color combination that is luxe and inviting. Leafy, tropical plants and elegant seating soften the entrance, and the lighting here is calming, warm and layered: the little strips that cast light on the bottles behind the bar, spotlights that draw attention to the artwork on the walls, and golden light fixtures that echo the gilded ceiling. An installation of clear glass hummingbirds hangs above the bar area, glinting as you walk by, while a tiled fish scale pattern in varying hues of blue wraps around the bar itself, the ideal spot to sip on the Our Husband’s Margarita.

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At least some of the credit for Bar Moro’s stylish interior belongs to its predecessor, Zoe Robinson’s Billie-Jean.

Bar Moro owner Ben Poremba wisely retained key components of Robinson’s blueprint: The monochromatic jet-black shell, sleek mid-century modern chairs and stools, that sweeping booth at the back of the restaurant and the intimacy that crackles where the curved bar meets the shotgun dining room. But Poremba’s Spanish restaurant builds on its inheritance and asserts its own vibrant identity. Fishing nets hang above you, and Edo Rosenblith’s expansive paintings animate the wall facing the bar. The servers shuttle back and forth in their smart old-school white service jackets. On the bar, baskets of fruit are piled high, wine bottles chill in ice buckets and flowers spill out from their pots. It’s intentional, organized chaos that fills you with the sense that every corner of this restaurant is thrillingly alive. From this start, it’s hard not to be excited for the jamon iberico, Basque cheesecake, vermouth, sherry and sangria to come.

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You’re scanning a menu and overwhelmed by choice, yet keen to avoid appearing indecisive. Order the appetizer platter. This is shorthand for, “I know exactly what I want: a little bit of everything.” These starter selections give you a sampler of what a restaurant has to offer and can serve either as the warmup act for a meal or simply something to share with friends over a quick drink.

Our team can’t get enough of these three platters.

BY AMY HYDE, MEERA NAGARAJAN AND LIZ WOLFSON // PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

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Mayo Ketchup Mayo Ketchup’s picadera platter offers a range of fried snacks to sample, regardless of whether you get the small (feeds two to three), medium (feeds four to six) or large platter (feeds eight to 10).

The sorullitos (cornmeal fritters) and the maduros (fried plantains) bring sweetness, while the yuca fries and tostones con aguacate (smashed and fried green plantains topped with avocado and pickled red onions) are more crunchy and salty.

The carne frita make for the perfect umami bite: The chunks of citrusand garlic-marinated pork are deep-fried until they’re crisp, but still tender inside. Finally, the cheese tequenos are a favorite, with the addictive combination of queso blanco wrapped in fried pastry dough.

No matter which fried bite you go for, they’re all ideal for dunking into the restaurant’s signature mayo ketchup or the fruity guava sauce.

2001 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2699, plantaingirl.com

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Pueblo Solis The botana platter at this South City Mexican restaurant includes guacamole, flautas, tostadas, tamales and quesadillas, but the sopes are the star of the show.

The thick masa cakes are fried for crispness and topped with Chihuahua cheese, diced onion and salsa. Every item can be made vegetarian, but if you’re not specific when you order, it will be chef ’s choice. Pro tip: You can even order a pitcher of their sweet and citrusy margarita to go.

5127 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.351.9000, pueblosolisstl.com

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The Vine Mediterranean Cafe

The appetizer combo here is an especially good option if you’re feeding a group of vegetarians (or even vegans). Select any four from a generous list of options ranging from dips (hummus, baba ghanoush, labneh) served with The Vine’s super fresh pita to bulkier dishes like falafel, kibbeh (beef-stuffed pastry) and makdous (cured baby eggplants stuffed with walnuts and garlic). An order of tabbouleh is a must: The finely chopped parsley laced with tomato, bulgur wheat and green onion – and dressed with lots of lemon juice – is fabulous either on its own or mixed with any of the dips for some extra heft and crunch.

3171 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.0991, thevinestl.com

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PHOTO COURTESY OF ROYAL SONESTA CHASE PARK PLAZA ST. LOUIS

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The Chase Park Plaza wedding venue brims with elegance and sophistication

BY KIANA FLEMING

L

ocated in the vibrant Central West End at 212 N. Kingshighway Blvd., the historic Royal Sonesta Chase Park Plaza St. Louis is an ideal location for an event of a lifetime, brimming with timeless elegance and sophistication. More than just a traditional wedding venue, the expert Chase team is dedicated to designing an event that is uniquely yours, turning your vision into a dazzling reality.

The full-service venue offers a collection of spaces that can easily accommodate your wildest dreams, making the Chase not only a notable landmark in St. Louis but a shining star among venues.

The luxury art-deco venue hosts two distinctive ballrooms, private rooms for bridal showers, rehearsal dinners, or brunches, indoor and outdoor settings, chef-driven menu selections, and accessible accommodations for you and your wedding guests.

Fall in love with their largest space, the newly renovated and stunning Khorassan Ballroom, ideal for grand weddings accommodating

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up to 500 seated guests with more than 14,000 square feet. Located on the main floor, the ballroom boasts a classic interior with ambient lighting, a soaring barrel ceiling, historic chandeliers, and a built-in stage with a large foyer for the cocktail hour.

If you desire a skyline, head to the 6,528-square-foot Starlight Ballroom on the 11th floor. With gorgeous views of Forest Park and downtown St. Louis, the Starlight Ballroom accommodates up to 270 seated guests with floor-toceiling windows, a built-in stage and a lush panoramic terrace creating a seamless indoor/outdoor experience. Book the Starlight Ballroom with the 4,950-squarefoot Zodiac Room for the cocktail hour featuring its own bright and airy terrace and floor-to-ceiling windows. Each ballroom includes fully draped round linens, white napkins, grey banquet chairs, framed table numbers, votive candles for the tables, a dance floor and more.

The Empire and Plaza Rooms are perfect options for an intimate wedding ceremony, reception

or rehearsal dinner. Both rooms offer a working fireplace, with the French and neo-classical designed Empire Room featuring a restored vintage chandelier, while the Plaza Room is perfect for a quaint brunch surrounded by large, picturesque windows allowing for an abundance of natural light. Whether you’re using a ballroom for both the ceremony and reception or choosing the best room for your rehearsal dinner, let Chase’s creative on-site wedding specialists find the best arrangement for you.

In addition, the Chase culinary team works with each couple to create an exceptional tailored menu for their special day with a variety of wedding packages to choose from. Most packages include five passed hors d’oeuvres, a three-course plated dinner, a custom wedding cake, bar and drink packages, complimentary wine during dinner and Champagne for a sparkling toast.

A complimentary menu tasting is included for up to four guests.

Couples are given a complimentary night in Chase’s legendary suites.

Additionally, each set of parents receives a complimentary suite upgrade for the wedding night.

As tradition stands, couples are invited back for their first anniversary with a complimentary night’s stay. The venue also offers a wealth of amenities such as a Mediterranean-style pool, movie theater, onsite and valet parking and a bridal suite for a topnotch experience.

“Guests will delight in the Central West End neighborhood’s convenient location. With Forest Park adjacent to the hotel, there lies a multitude of unique options for wedding photos and fun,” said Davina Horton, catering and convention services manager.

The Chase is a Sonesta Hotel and part of the Travel Pass program allowing members to earn up to 150,000 Sonesta Travel Pass points.

If you are interested in booking or touring the Chase, contact the Royal Sonesta Chase Park Plaza St. Louis catering office at 314.633.3060. saucemagazine.comI SAUCE I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI 45 I2 saucemagazine.com

PHOTO COURTESY OF DOUBLETREE BY HILTON CHESTERFIELD

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PICTURE PERFECT WEDDING VENUES When planning a wedding, you want to avoid any unnecessary stress. Let these St. Louis-area venues take some of the work off your plate to make the big day as seamless as possible.

The Canopy At the DoubleTree by Hilton Chesterfield, wedding planners will find a new indooroutdoor space called The Canopy, created as a flexible and beautiful venue for elegant events.

The glass-walled space offers a private country club feel with the convenience of a hotel attached and access to the lovely outdoor gardens. At 6,000 square feet, the venue can accommodate up to 350 people for a seated event. Natural light floods into The Canopy through glass walls, brightening the vaulted, airy space’s neutral palette. Wedding guests can stay on-site in the hotel's 224 guest rooms.

16625 Swingley Ridge Road, St. Louis, 636.532.5000, hilton.com/en/hotels/stlscdtdoubletree-st-louis-chesterfield/events

Cyrano's Café Cyrano’s private event room is a beautiful and unique space with an eclectic interior design that isn’t found in traditional banquet rooms.

With the ability to accommodate up to 50 people, it’s the perfect space for rehearsal dinners, bridal showers and smaller receptions.

Seated meals and buffet packages start at $16 per person for lunch and $20 for dinner, and they have the best housemade desserts in town. Located in Webster Groves, Cyrano’s is centrally located and close to major highways.

603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, main line: 314.963.3232; private events line: 314.963.3434, cyranos.com

Edera Italian Eatery Let Edera be a part of your special day with its beautiful, upscale spaces. Located on the lower February 2024

level of the property, the Wine Room is a private, glassed-in room that seats a maximum of 40 guests and features a standing bar, along with wood and mirrored accents. The Fountain Room is another private room that seats a maximum of 90 guests on the third floor of the property. It comes equipped with its own restrooms, bar and exhibition kitchen. The Chef’s Table is a semiprivate dining area located on the lower level of the property with a view into a wine cellar with seating for up to 14 guests. In order to book the Chef’s Table, there’s a $500 food and beverage minimum and a signed contract is required to secure the space. As an add-on, ask about the Iron Chef Competition in which your group will break up into teams to challenge each other in a cook-off. Both the Wine Room and Fountain room have 50-inch flatscreen TVs that are HDMI and VGA capable, while the Chef’s Table area has a TV that’s only HDMI capable. All areas have both stair and elevator access.

48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7227, ederastl.com

Royal Sonesta Chase Park Plaza

Orlando Banquets and Catering

The Pasta House Co.

This family-owned and -operated business has been helping St. Louis celebrate with delicious food and outstanding service for over 54 years. Specializing in trendsetting, customized menus and creative presentation, they offer everything from drop-off party trays and simple buffets to elegant, formal dining, butlerpassed hors d’oeuvres and interactive chef stations. Orlando’s caters to private homes and offices and is also a preferred caterer at over 40 unique venues, now including The Grand Ballroom downtown. They offer all-inclusive packages at their two Orlando’s Event Centers and a bed and breakfast log cabin, The Lodge at Grant’s Trail.

2050 Dorsett Village, Maryland Heights, 314.453.9000; 4300 Hoffmeister Ave., St. Louis, 314.638.6660, orlandogardens.com

From intimate ceremonies to grandiose ballroom receptions, the team at the Royal Sonesta Chase Park Plaza are experts in making your unique wedding vision a reality.

Customize your wedding experience with a menu that complements your special day and enjoy discounts on Friday and Sunday weddings. At the Chase Park Plaza, your guests will feel like royalty from the moment they arrive, whether they’re dancing the night away in the Khorassan Ballroom, enjoying the view from the rooftop of the Starlight Ballroom, or making use of the many amenities the hotel has to offer. Contact Haseeb Arain at harain@ sonesta.com for more information.

212 Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.633.3000, sonesta.com/royal-sonesta/mo/st-louis/ chase-park-plaza-royal-sonesta-st-louis

For 50 years, The Pasta House Co. has been a St. Louis tradition offering both full-service catering as well as several conveniently located restaurants throughout the St. Louis bi-state area. With a variety of cuisine choices that extend beyond its traditional restaurant offerings, The Pasta House Co. guarantees you will find an option for your taste and budget, whether you are planning a wedding, office party, seminar or special event. Catering amenities include pickup, delivery and fullservice staffing. Planning for a smaller group?

All Pasta House Co. restaurants offer a Parties to Go menu and Family Meal Deals to serve to friends and family. Call the catering department number below or email catering@thepastahouse.com for more information.

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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

DRESSEL'S

It’s tempting to think of a longrunning restaurant’s or bar’s story as a linear tale of success, cheered on by generations of adoring regulars. The truth is usually a decades-long rollercoaster ride of blind corners, gut-wrenching lows and white-knuckle moments of existential jeopardy. The places that survive are often those capable of adapting and reinventing themselves, and that’s something Ben Dressel, the second-generation owner of Central West End institution Dressel’s, knows only too well.

Since purchasing the bar from his parents in 2005, Ben has overseen at least two major revamps of Dressel’s. The most recent, in 2023, saw Dressel’s reopen

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after a three-year hiatus triggered by the pandemic. A top-to-tail remodel freshened up the bar’s interior with a more contemporary look, though the soul of Dressel’s is still a reflection of the German and Welsh cultural influences that shaped the bar as it evolved through the 1980s and 1990s.

The major food and drink innovation this time – the one Ben believes will secure Dressel’s future for the next decade – is the launch of an in-house brewery, Rock & Horse Brewing Co. Ben got the idea from a bar owner he met while on a climbing trip in Colorado. “He opened my eyes that you can have a small brewery in the pub and make beer and not worry

about distribution,” Ben said. “You can just create the culture of a brewery within the four walls of a pub and still have it feel like a pub.”

Although he doesn’t see himself in a brewing role in the long term, Ben is learning the ropes himself from experienced brewers. He recently collaborated with Perennial Artisan Ales to create the first Rock & Horse beer, a pale ale called Utmost Classic. Rock & Horse will start out brewing three or four beers, but Ben hopes to expand that rotation in time. The lineup will include a Welsh-style ale, recalling the days when Dressel’s poured Felinfoel Brewery’s Double Dragon.

Ben places Dressel’s in a lineage of traditional pubs that grew up around the Gaslight Square scene, starting with the original O’Connell’s in the 1960s.

Then, as Gaslight Square declined, those pubs proliferated around the broader Central West End and other neighborhoods in the 1970s. When Ben’s parents opened Dressel’s in 1980, their vision was to create a literary, intellectual bar where students and academics from the city’s universities could enjoy a pint. Jon Dressel, Ben’s father, collected busts of classical composers that remain on display above the bar, and framed pictures of an assortment of writers, musicians and poets still hang on the walls.

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PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

BY I A I N S H AW

With the relaunch, Dressel’s introduced a menu that combined a few new items with a greatest hits collection of dishes that recall some of the high-water marks of the restaurant’s 44-year run. There are the seasonal soups and stews, as well as the freshly cooked potato chips that have always been a Dressel’s signature. “It was the only thing on our appetizer menu,” Dressel said of the bar’s early days. “If you came here, you were getting a basket of chips, and a pint and a bowl of soup.”

Housemade chips weren’t to be taken for granted back in the early 1980s, Ben said. Jon Dressel had opened Llywelyn’s Pub with Jack Brangle in 1975 (just 100 yards away at 4747 McPherson Ave.), and Ben said he remembers Llywelyn’s chips vividly. “I could be wrong about this, but I don’t know of any other place in St. Louis that was hand-cutting potato chips in the ’70s,” he said. “I remember the February 2024

cooks were chopping them with a knife, and eventually they figured out how to use a vegetable slicer to get them thin enough to start making housemade potato chips. Dressel’s just picked up that ball and ran with it in 1980.”

The current menu also includes the pretzel with Welsh rarebit (a hot Welsh cheese sauce), and the Porchetta Louie (Dressel’s famous porchetta sandwich), both of which reached a nationwide TV audience when Dressel’s was featured on an episode of Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives in 2012.

“The next day, there was a line around the block and that continued for several years and lots of extra business,” Ben said.

That moment in the spotlight came on the heels of – and in many ways conflicted with – Ben’s first major overhaul at Dressel’s. His interest in the farm-totable movement gave him the notion of reimagining Dressel’s as what he lovingly

calls a “poor man’s Annie Gunn’s.” Ben began with caution soon after taking over the bar, but the project gathered momentum in the early 2010s. Chris Meyer and Mike Miller, now the coowners of Songbird, were among those who helped bring Ben’s vision to life.

Meyer helped Ben run the front of house, while Miller ran the kitchen as executive chef, before being succeeded by his chef de cuisine Derek Roe. “They were a powerhouse, really good cooks and they were well-trained,” Ben said. At one point, the kitchen was creating five menu items from a single hog. “It was a very high standard, as locavore as you could get.”

Ben’s pride at what his team achieved in the gastropub years is balanced by an acknowledgment that the experiment didn’t work out quite the way he hoped it would. “We actually started going down the tubes as far as foot traffic,” he said.

“If you were looking for burgers and

shepherd’s pie, you’re suddenly like, ‘This isn’t my place anymore.’ It was traumatic for a lot of people; it was a big break.”

While Ben works on transforming Dressel’s beer offerings with the launch of Rock & Horse, the revamped menu represents a decisive turn once more toward the tried-and-true pub fare that built the bar’s reputation. It’s not a repudiation of the bar’s previous direction: Ben’s belief in the virtues of culinary skill and rigorous sourcing is unshaken. Rather, it’s an acknowledgment that progress is often a messy process. It just so happens that for Dressel’s, the way forward right now involves creating that new brewery while also doubling down on the food that made the bar great to begin with. In this case, reinvention and rediscovery go hand in hand.

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