24 carrot magic cocktails from planter’s house, for more on zeroproof drinking, turn to p. 31
ST. LOUIS’ Guide to Drinking 2018INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY
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NEW & IMPROVED AMERICAN WINE by
rebecca
koenig
W
atch out, California. You’ve long been the darling of the American wine scene, basking in praise for your bold, fruity bottles. But competition is sprouting in vineyards across the country, and other grapegrowing states are stepping into the spotlight. It all comes down to Vitis vinifera. This species of grape dominates the winemaking world – big names like chardonnay, cabernet and the various pinots are all vinifera. The species is a bit of a diva, however.
Thanks to their moderate climates, regions such as Napa Valley in California and the Finger Lakes in New York have long had an advantage with these grapes. Meanwhile, it is almost impossible for European varieties to flourish in much of the Midwest, South and Great Plains. That’s why other grape species, like Missouri’s state grape, the all-American Norton, and hearty hybrids like vignoles and chambourcin, are popular in those regions.
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ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
“There’s a fairly narrow band of areas of the world where these European varieties grow successfully,” including power producers such as South Africa, New Zealand, Argentina and the U.S. Pacific coast, said Glenn Bardgett, wine director at Annie Gunn’s and Smokehouse Market.
But winemakers in Ohio, Michigan and Texas are learning how to please vinifera, and experts say they’re coaxing fine performances from the picky plant. Regional bottles aren’t always easy to find in St. Louis, but local oenophiles say they’re worth seeking. Look for wines from any of the following auspicious American regions. VIRGINIA Virginian vintners have figured some things out since Thomas Jefferson’s attempts to grow wine grapes failed. Norton, the American grape named for the Virginian who first cultivated it in the early 19th century, is still around. But today, you’re more likely to encounter vinifera grapes in Virginia, along with some hybrids. Look for chardonnay, cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot and the official state variety, viognier. Wine to try: 2015 Chrysalis Norton Barrel Select Raisins, dates, violets and blackberry jam make up the notes in this tannic wine, which pairs well with rich foods. This winery is “doing amazing stuff” with Norton, said Patricia Wamhoff, the advanced sommelier at Extra Brut who also teaches classes at Parker’s Table. $31. chrysaliswine.com OHIO It may not be the first wine region you think of, but Ohio is one of the oldest in the U.S. Native-grape Ohioan bubbly was all
Guide to Drinking 2018
the rage in the mid-19th century, so much so that Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wrote the poem “Ode to Catawba Wine” praising it. Today, chardonnay and pinot noir are the state’s most notable products. Look also for cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and pinot gris/grigio. Wine to try: 2013 Markko Vineyard Chardonnay Select Reserve Reeds American Table beverage director and certified sommelier Alisha Blackwell-Calvert, who was just named one of Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40, recommended this bottle. “Peach and apricot meets honeysuckle in a glass,” she said. “It tastes like Sonoma Coast chardonnay.” $42. markko.com TEXAS Of all the country’s emerging regions, “Texas wines are the most promising,” BlackwellCalvert said. That’s thanks to a growing dedication to quality, especially from vineyards in the Texas High Plains AVA (American Viticultural Area). The panhandle’s soil and climate support grapes from Spain and the southern Rhone Valley, which Bardgett said is unusual for the American South. Getting your hands on a good Lone Star bottle is a sure way to impress your friends, Blackwell-Calvert suggested. “There are world-class wines in the middle of Texas, but no one really knows they’re
there.” Look for cabernet sauvignon, muscat, tempranillo, sauvignon blanc, syrah and viognier. The “Go Texan” logo indicates wine made with at least 75 percent Texas grapes. Wines to try: TX Locations Wine Recommended as a great value by BlackwellCalvert, this red blend incorporates grenache, mourvèdre, syrah, Carignan and Bordeaux veritals from McPherson Cellars producing notes of plum, rose, cedar, black tea and slate. $20. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com 2017 William Chris Vineyards Petillant Naturel Blackwell-Calvert called this red blend “fun and cheeky” with aromas and flavors of strawberry and citrus and a natural fizz. About half the grapes come from the High Plains region, the rest from further south in Texas. $25. williamchriswines.com MICHIGAN Bubbles lovers, look north. Michigan’s cool climate recalls that of the Champagne region of France, and accordingly, the state produces crisp sparkling wines that are “really fun and balanced,” Blackwell-Calvert said. Look for wines made from chardonnay, riesling and pinot noir. L. Mawby Vineyards on the Leelanau Peninsula specializes in sparklings made by the traditional méthode
champenoise from grapes harvested by hand. The result, Wamhoff said, is amazing. Wine to try: L. Mawby Vineyards Talismøn This brut wine, produced in the méthode champenoise, is a blend of vignoles, pinot noir, pinot gris and chardonnay grapes. It has moderate body and a toasty aroma. $39. lmawby.com NEW MEXICO Great wine requires struggle. “The potential for making fine wine is greater [in dry areas like the American Southwest],” BlackwellCalvert said, because grapes that have to fight to stay hydrated end up more flavorful. Some vintners, including several families of French immigrants, are capitalizing on this opportunity in New Mexico. Look for wines made from chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon. Wine to try: Gruet Brut The Gruet clan produces sparkling wines at high elevations using the méthode champenoise at its eponymous winery. Made of three-fourths chardonnay and onefourth pinot noir, this crisp sparkling wine smells of green apple and citrus and has a long finish. Find it on local wine lists including Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria, Sidney Street Cafe and Taste. $17. Randall’s Wines & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com
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T R E N D W A T C H guide to drinking edition BY LAUREN HEALEY, HEATHER HUGHES, CATHERINE KLENE AND MAT T SORRELL
LOCAL GIN
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Gin isn’t exactly new on the local spirits scene. Distilleries like Spirits of St. Louis and Pinckney Bend have been producing quality versions for years, but local production of the juniper-forward tipple has been on the rise. Still630 Distillery, which made its name with whiskey, got into the gin game last year with Volstead’s Folly American Gin and followed up this year with American Navy-Strength Gin. The folks behind 4 Hands Brewing Co. joined the distilling milieu this spring, debuting the 1220 Ardent Spirits Distillery operation with Origin Gin.
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milk cock t ails
You don’t have to be The Dude to enjoy milk in cocktails these days. Bartenders are using everything from regular cow milk like in Frazer’s fruity, creamy OMG, They Pop! to super old-school clarified milk punch – as in the boozy Prince Albert at The Benevolent King and Retreat’s Tan Lines, made with chocolate milk-washed tequila. The Benevolent King’s rum-based Ali’i cocktail incorporates kefir, and there are plenty of vegan milk cocktails like the Moloko Plus at Taste, made with pistachio milk, or the Ain’t Nothin’ Wrong With That at The Blue Duck, which includes two corn milk ice cubes. Coconut milk also makes an appearance in the tropical Peruvian Sunset at Small Batch and He’s After Me Too at Reeds American Table.
LaCroix lovers and health-conscious imbibers now have a wide selection of spiked sparklers to choose from. Truly Spiked & Sparkling and White Claw Hard Seltzer are both made with alcohol distilled from sugar and come in a variety of fruit flavors. Established spirits companies are also getting in on the trend with products like Smirnoff Spiked Sparkling Seltzers and Sauza Agua Fuerte, which is made with tequila and comes in lime, grapefruit and mango.
spik ed sp ar k ling w a t er s
aloe liqueur
St. Louis bartenders are adding a taste of aloe vera to cocktails, and you should too. Made in California, Chareau Aloe Liqueur combines aloe, cucumber, lemon peel, spearmint, muskmelon and sugar into a fresh, sweet, vegetal, citrusy amalgam that plays well with all manner of spirits. Get a taste in drinks like the Exit Strategy with cachaça, pineapple and ginger at Retreat, the Clean & Green with lemon and mint at Público and the Cali Margarita at Reeds American Table. Experiment at home; Chareau is available for purchase at Intoxicology, The Wine and Cheese Place and The Wine Merchant.
Guide to Drinking 2018
dry lambrusco
Like rosé, lambrusco used to have a reputation for being a toosweet soda alternative ordered by grandmas or college students who hadn’t yet learned how to drink. Now, dry lambruscos truer to the classic Italian style are increasingly popular on St. Louis wine lists. With four bottles on offer, Louie is leading the charge. Owner Matt McGuire said it’s killer with any charcuterie or spicy food. Union Loafers recently offered a dry lambrusco by the glass, and Westport Social still does. Vicia has paired its tasting menu charcuterie course with Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco di Sorbara (a previous Sauce fixation). There are also several bottles you can bring home at Parker’s Table.
big beers in cans
Once upon a time, big bold beers demanded big bottles, but it’s hard to drink 22 ounces of a boozy stout in one sitting. Luckily, many are going the way of their lighter brethren – aluminum. Perennial Artisan Ales made a big push toward canning this year, including its Fantastic Voyage, an 11.5 percent Imperial milk stout with loads of dried coconut that now resides in 16-ounce cans. Likewise, 2nd Shift Brewing moved its Imperial stout, Liquid Spiritual Delight, to 12-ounce cans earlier this year. While 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s ever-popular Chocolate Milk Stout made the move to cans three years ago, 2018 saw its 8.5 percent Imperial IPA Ca$h Mony make the year-round roster in 12-ounce four-packs.
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LITTLE BLACK BAR Black has long been the color of cool, and your bar can benefit from the same glam treatment as your closet. From shakers to coasters, dress your bar in unending night. – Maggie Pearson
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Bl ack Marble Wine Cooler $23. Home Depot, homedepot.com Bl ack Linen C o c k ta i l Napkins Set of 4: $20. CB2, cb2.com
Av e r n a Amaro Averna is a deep, dark amaro with notes of herbal licorice, caramel and bitter orange. Use it in a Black Manhattan – the proper cocktail for tasting the midnight mood of your bar. Simply combine 2 ounces rye, 1 ounce Averna amaro and 2 dashes orange bitters in an ice-filled mixing glass, stir and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a flamed orange twist. $38. Intoxicology
D e at h a n d Co. Modern Classic C o c k ta i l s $40. Intoxicology
The Bartender’s Blotter Keep track of your creations like a pro with this little black cocktail book, including conversion charts designed by Jeffrey Morgenthaler. $15. Intoxicology
Artland Midnight Bl ack Stemless Wine Glasses Set of 6: $33. Target, target.com C o c k ta i l Kingdom M at t e B l ac k Collection Teardrop barspoon: $23; Premium Julep Strainer: $17. Intoxicology
Bl ack striped p a p e r s t r aw s Pack of 10: $3. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com V i n tag e B a r wa r e Black is timeless, and so is the best barware. Explore the shelves of your favorite antique shop or look for curated finds like these midcentury Fred Press highball glasses and Kromex faux alligator ice bucket at Intoxicology in The Grove. Old Forester C o c k ta i l Provisions With creative flavors packaged in small, matte black bottles, this is the line of bitters, tinctures and syrups your bar needs. Sea Salt & Black Pepper Tincture: $8.50. Smoked Cinnamon Bitters: $12.50. Intoxicology Alice S c o t t G i lt A st r o lo gy Coasters Set of 4: $28. Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com
Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com
*not pictured
Guide to Drinking 2018
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
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you love
by katie herrera photos by izaiah johnson Guide to Drinking 2018
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“I hate IPAs,” and “I don’t like hops,” are two of the most common things beertenders hear behind the bar. The India pale ale – a hop-forward style originating in 19th-century England – is arguably the most divisive beer on the market. But some of the hop hatred is probably based on old information. When the American craft
THE OLD The classic American IPA showcases a balanced hop and malt profile dominated by New World hop varietals and pale malts, is often dry-hopped and exudes a citrus, pine and resinous hop character. Iconic Anchor Brewing Liberty Ale National Beauty Bell’s Brewery Two Hearted Ale* Local Perfection Schlafly American IPA* The West Coast IPA is an aggressively hopped American IPA intent on wreaking havoc on imbibers’ palates. Absurd amounts of hops
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go into the boil, creating excessive bitterness. Iconic Russian River Brewing Co. Pliny the Elder National Beauty Lagunitas Brewing Co. Lagunitas IPA* Local Perfection Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Fantasyland*
THE NEW
The New England IPA is a fantastic introduction to what hops can do beyond bittering a beer. Hazy to
movement was picking up, many brewers thought more was more when it came to hops, giving IPAs a reputation for palate-attacking bitterness. But today, the style is way more diverse. IPAs have been at the helm of increased experimentation lately, allowing brewers to better understand the
opaque in color, these beers are juicy with abundant notes of tropical fruits and citrus, and they’re low in bitterness since most of the hops are used in dry-hopping. Iconic The Alchemist Heady Topper National Beauty Evil Twin Brewing Lost Souls* Local Perfection Any Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. NEIPA, like DDH Fallen Flag (sold exclusively at the brewery)
role hops play beyond the bittering agent used to balance a malt bill’s sweetness. Hops, especially when added after the boil (dry-hopping), can generate tons of aromas and flavor nuance. Bitter isn’t for everyone, and that’s OK, but try a few of these increasingly popular variations before swearing off the style.
Cloudy as a rainy day and velvety in texture, these dessert beers push the limits with sweet adjuncts like vanilla, fruit, cereal or cookies. Iconic Omnipollo/Tired Hands Brewing Co. Milkshake Series National Beauty Odell Brewing Co. Cloud Catcher* Local Perfection 4 Hands Brewing Co. Smooth Operator*
Milkshake or Smoothie IPAs one-up the New England IPA by incorporating loads of oats and lactose for a rich, shake-like quality.
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T HE N EW N EW
collaboration and gearing up for a second limited release, available exclusively at the brewery this month. Perennial Artisan Ales also has one landing this month called Ain’t It Strange, exclusively available at its tasting room. Expect low bitterness, a dry palate and a mildly dank, ubertropical aroma from Galaxy hops.
The Brut IPA was recently invented by Kim Sturdavant of San Francisco Social Kitchen and Brewery to counter the juice craze taking over the Eastern Seaboard. This exciting new genre is light-bodied, super crisp and bone dry. It’s the product of high-adjunct malt bills like flaked wheat and rice, postboil hop additions and the complex sugar-eating enzyme amyloglucosidase, which helps produce zero grams of residual sugar in the final product.
The Sour IPA converges old school and new school potentially palatewreaking styles. More and more dryhopped sour beers are popping up, and with all the IPA experimentation, it makes total sense to add souring bacteria to an IPA for a unique yet complementary character. Narrow Gauge recently collaborated with Central Standard Brewing out of Wichita, Kansas, for the Drop Ceiling, a New England-style IPA with souring bacteria aged in oak foedres on black currants. Stay tuned, St. Louis. This is just the beginning.
Local hopoholic trendsetter 2nd Shift Brewing has already dabbled with a Brut IPA, knocking it out of the park with its Transient Artisan Ales
*Available at Craft Beer Cellar, 5760 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.222.0333; 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444; craftbeercellar.com
Get I T 2nd shift brewing
1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Guide to Drinking 2018
urban chestnut brewing co. Midtown Brewery & Biergarten, 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis; Grove Brewery & Bierhall, 4485 Manchester Ave., St. Louis; 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com
4 hands brewing co.
1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com
schlafly
Taproom 2100 Locust St., St. Louis; Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood; 314.241.2337, thesaintlouis brewery.com
narrow gauge brewing co.
1595 N. US Highway 67, Florissant, 314.831.3222, narrowgaugestl.com
perennial artisan ales
8125 Michigan Ave., St. Louis, 314.631.7300, perennialbeer.com
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SPONSORED
W HISK EY BENT & K ENTUCKY BOUND St. Louis spirits company Luxco opens distillery on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail B Y L AU R E N H E A L E Y
If you want to get out of the city for a few days while still enjoying some St. Louis-owned whiskey, head to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, more specifically Bardstown, where Luxco has opened Lux Row Distillers, an 18,000-square-foot distillery in the heart of Bourbon Country.
PHOTOS COURTESY LUX ROW DISTILLERS
Luxco has been in the spirits industry for more than 60 years, utilizing distilleries around the country to supply its bottling and blending plant in St. Louis. Thanks to increased demand for its products, however, the family-owned and -operated company opened a state-of-the-art distillery in Kentucky, the birthplace of bourbon, in April 2018. Visitors can take a 45-minute walking tour of the facility on its 90-acre historical farm and sample a variety of bourbons, including Blood Oath, David Nicholson, Ezra Brooks and Rebel Yell, all of which offer different flavor profiles. “The tour is the real deal,” said John Rempe, head distiller and master blender at Lux Row Distillers. “You walk right through the heart of operations – fermenting, the cookers, all the way back to the barreling room and aging warehouse.”
Guide to Drinking 2018
The process begins with high-quality local grains – bourbon must be at least 51 percent corn – that are milled into powder then cooked in limestonefiltered water in 4,000-gallon cookers. Next, the blend is pumped into a fermenter, where yeast converts the sugar into ethanol, at which point the blend is considered beer with eight percent ABV. Finally, the mixture is distilled twice in a 43-foot custom continuous column copper still, cut with water to lower it to 125 proof, then aged in barrels anywhere from four to 15 years, depending on the variety. The distillery is capable of producing about 3 million gallons per year.
Lux Row Distillers offers tours from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and from 1 to 3 p.m. Sunday.
After the tour, head to the gift shop for souvenirs, then wander around the grounds to see the historic buildings and flock of peacocks roaming the estate. “The facility is awe-inspiring, and the property itself – it’s incredible to see this farm right in the middle of a city,” Rempe said. “Come see what a St. Louis family has done in Bardstown.” Just over a four-hour drive from St. Louis, Lux Row Distillers is a must-see stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. For more information, visit luxrowdistillers.com.
If you’re looking for an excuse to hit the road, the Kentucky Bourbon Festival from Sept. 12 to 16 takes place at each of the distilleries on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, along with other locations, and features a range of activities, from parties, tastings and tours to vehicle shows and live music.
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clockwise from bottom center, yellowbelly co-owner travis howard, lead bartender zach stout, co-owner tim wiggins, bartender taylor james, line cook hana chung and retreat assistant general manager kelly stout 22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
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TIKI r e f i n e d yellowbelly brings modern, tropical flavors to st. louis by heather hughes photos by greg rannells
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from left, yellowbelly, helping hands, millennial pink
TIKI IS FUNdaMENTALLY E X trA, and that’s why we love her. But she’s growing up, and we’re not mad about that, either. The popularity of tropical spirits and flavors has given rise to a class of clean, stirred cocktails that belong in a rocks glass but have the heart of an appropriated Polynesian idol. Bars like Navy Strength in Seattle and Pacific Cocktail Haven in San Francisco are now joined by our own Yellowbelly, opening this month in the Central West End. At Yellowbelly, owners Travis Howard and Tim Wiggins aim to reimagine St. Louis food and drink with Polynesian flavors. The team that created Retreat partnered with
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“Top Chef” winner and restaurateur Richard Blais to concept Yellowbelly’s seafood-focused menu, and he’ll stay on as consulting chef after the restaurant opens. The food will highlight ocean flavors beyond fish, like seaweed and brine, with casual, lighthearted presentations like a deconstructed Chicken of the Sea-sar Salad featuring confit tuna, wakame and romaine. Wiggins will helm the bar program with a focus on playful drinks that seem simple, but require meticulous technique. “They’ll be really punchy, fun cocktails that don’t take themselves too seriously,” he said.
But don’t expect a lineup of tiki sugar bombs. “The whole menu trends toward savory, vegetal, briny flavors because that’s what goes well with the food,” Wiggins said. “The cocktails and food will be very cohesive and use a lot of similar ingredients and techniques.” The Helping Hands cocktail offers a great example. Made with blanco tequila, seaweed-infused blanc vermouth, snap pea juice and lime, Wiggins describes it as a, “vegetal, savory, umami take on a margarita.” The Millennial Pink makes use of tropical darling rhum agricole along with Contratto bitter, blanc
vermouth and peach to show the bitter side of tiki. “It reads a lot more like a Negroni than you’d think,” Wiggins said. And the earthy, spiced Yellowbelly cocktail does its namesake proud with aged rum, ginger falernum, coconut, pineapple, turmeric and lime. “The earthy spice of the turmeric cuts through the sweetness,” Wiggins said. “To my mind, it’s like a really fancy piña colada,” Wiggins said. With sophisticated tropical flavors and a lighthearted approach, we can’t wait to follow Wiggins in the modern, streamlined direction that tiki is headed. Guide to Drinking 2018
O ys T E R S
with kimchi pearls
“There will definitely be some molecular gastronomy in a casual , play ful way,” co - owner Tim Wiggins said . “You can’t not with Richard Blais involved .” Made with liquid nitrogen, kimchi pearls add a unique spin to Yellowbelly ’s oysters .
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clockwise from top left, avocado toast with salmon pico de gallo and a mango yolk, fried fish sandwich with pickled daikon, coconut cake, yellowbelly sous chef kate wagoner
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LESS IS
MORE
l o w - a bv a n d z e r o - p r o o f c o c k ta i l s k e e p t h e pa r t y g o i n g b y k r i s t i n s c h u lt z // p h o t o s b y c a r m e n t r o e s s e r Guide to Drinking 2018
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from left, tony saputo and rose rickey cocktails at the benevolent king
T
he rise of low- and no-ABV cocktails has bartenders and thirsty patrons forming the best symbiotic relationship since honeybees and orange blossoms. With an increasing number of complex, lowalcohol bottles like vermouth and sherry coming on the market and a greater number of curious drinkers seeking to sample the creativity without getting wasted, everybody wins. It’s not like shot glasses are going out of production, but there is a notable industry trend. William Grant & Sons distillers kicked off Tales of the Cocktail (the trendsetting annual bar and spirits convention in New Orleans) this year with a dry party. Breweries from Sam Adams to The Civil Life offer a widening variety of beers meant to be enjoyed all afternoon long, and low-alcohol wines claim more space on the shelf. Monikers like “virgin” and even “mocktail” are being replaced by less embarrassing labels like “sessionable” and “zero-proof.” People are choosing to be more responsible, knowing they can order a low-alcohol drink without compromising quality or flavor. When Parlor opened in The Grove last winter, manager David Greteman featured a Parlor’s Cup employing primarily Pimm’s, which clocks in at a mild 12.5 percent AVB compared to bourbon’s nearly
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50 percent, and just a little gin. The bar served up 240 cups in its first 10 days.
start with ingredients that have layers of flavor,” said co-owner Ted Kilgore.
uses a bourbon spray or rinse to trick the nose with some drinks.
“It’s more about enjoying the experience of going out rather than pounding Jäger and getting sloppy,” said Frazer’s beverage director Terry Oliver, who has also seen an uptick in interested customers at the Benton Park bar.
Mixing up a great no- or low-ABV cocktail is just as demanding as building a boozier beverage. In fact, the challenge of creating something with nothing is part of the attraction.
M
J
ust because you don’t or can’t drink doesn’t mean you want to be stuck sipping ginger ale with a splash of orange juice. General manager Tony Saputo at The Benevolent King in Maplewood said the nonalcoholic offerings on his menu, like the refreshing Moroccan-inspired almond-orange-black pepper soda, have been a hit with a variety of guests. “There’s no single type of person that goes for it,” Saputo said. “It’s a relief for pregnant customers that there’s still something for them.” Planter’s House in Lafayette Square has an entire mocktail menu, on which the 24 Carrot Magic is the most popular order. The sweet, earthy and black pepper notes of the carrot and turmeric juice offer enough interest to play against the lemon, coconut water and ginger cordial for a sip as deep and satisfying as any bourbon-based drink. “The key is to
“It should never be disregarded – the importance of classic builds and ratios,” Greteman said. “If you stray from the basics, nothing works. You first learn how to balance a stirred cocktail, then a shaken, citrus-based one. Faced with the challenge of making a low- or no-alcohol drink allows you to redevelop that principle of balance.” It’s a challenge Retreat bar manager and Yellowbelly co-owner Tim Wiggins enjoys taking head-on. “Nonalcoholic drinks can be lame,” he said. “I wanted to create cocktails instead of just shaking juice. I like figuring out what’s missing.” It’s not easy to replicate a boozy drink. “It’s the aroma and the heat when you swallow that make a cocktail feel like a cocktail,” Wiggins said. To mimic that heat, Wiggins infuses juices and syrups with spices like chili flake and utilizes cold-pressed ginger juice at his Central West End bars. He
any incorporate bubbles to mask the mouth feel of lo-fi sippers. Oliver uses a palate-bending edible buzz button flower to shake up mild-mannered liqueurs at Frazer’s with no spirits required. The diminutive, yellow cone packs a punch as it opens salivary glands, amplifies taste buds and creates a tingling, buzzing sensation like you’ve licked a 9-volt battery or your tongue has gone to sleep. “It’s intense,” Oliver said. He advises guests to try the Flower Power cocktail, eat the flower, then go back and try it again to see how the flavors change. “For me, the drink starts sweet but after eating the flower, it becomes more tart,” he said. “But other people notice salty or savory flavors.” The cocktail itself is equal parts of three liqueurs and lemon juice served with a small glass of cava – not a barnburner by ABV standards but a memorable drink nonetheless. Swapping out spirits for liqueurs, amari or fortified wines is one way to lower the proof. Wiggins turns to sherry as a replacement for harder spirits in some classic cocktail riffs. In his Session Daiquiri, rum is replaced by dry Guide to Drinking 2018
F L OW E R P O W E R Courtesy of Frazer’s Terry Oliver 1 oz. Bigallet Thyme liqueur 1 oz. Giffard vanilla liqueur 1 oz. Rothman & Winter Orchard Pear liqueur ¾ oz. lemon juice 2 dashes Angostura orange bitters 1 buzz button flower (available at amazon.com) Dry cava • Combine the thyme liqueur, vanilla liqueur, pear liqueur, lemon juice and bitters in a shaker. Fill ²∕³ full with ice, shake vigorously 20 seconds and fine strain in a coupe glass. Pour the cava in a small glass to serve alongside. • To enjoy, sip the cocktail then eat the whole buzz button flower. Wait 1 minute, then sip it again along with the cava.
ROSE RI CK E Y Courtesy of The Benevolent King’s Tony Saputo 3 oz. water 1 oz. honey syrup (three parts honey and one part water) 1 oz. lime juice 1 splash rosewater Ginger beer Mint and cucumber, for garnish
flower power at fra zer's
• Combine the water, honey syrup, lime juice and rosewater in a shaker. Fill ²∕³ full with ice, shake vigorously 20 seconds, strain into a flute and top with the ginger beer. Garnish with mint and spiral-cut cucumber.
frazer’s, frazersgoodeats.com // parlor, parlorstl.com // planter’s house, plantershousestl.com // retreat, retreatgastropub.com // the benevolent king, thebenevolentking.com // yellowbelly, yellowbellystl.com
Guide to Drinking 2018
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the parlor's cup from parlor
vermouth and fino sherry. Shaken with lime and pineapple, it’s a crushable cocktail that won’t crush you. Another trick is to switch up the ratio of spirits to traditional modifiers. “If you reverse the formula of some drinks, you can play Mr. Potato Head and play with different spirits and liqueurs,” Oliver said. Instead of a normal sour with two ounces of liquor and modest amounts of sugar and citrus, Oliver’s Sidewinder at Frazer’s features an ounce of apricot liqueur, an ounce of ginger liqueur and a mere threequarter ounce of cognac and threequarter ounce of citrus. The fruit and spice play forward, with the cognac keeping time in the background. Kilgore noted that some original martini recipes contained two-thirds
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sweet vermouth to a mere onethird gin. Eventually, dry vermouth replaced the sweet, and gin stole the spotlight. If you don’t want to slam your classic all the way in reverse, mix it up half-and-half to lower the octane while preserving the essence of the drink. Though obviously not aiming for zero-proof, these simple changes can seriously change your experience of a night out. The same principles the pros use can be applied at home. Wiggins said to achieve the balance of sweet, sour, bitter and savory, and a better mouth feel, add a pinch of salt or shake the drink with a slice of jalapeno. With the variety of intriguing drinks made with compelling ingredients by driven bartenders, there’s no end to your evening and no reason for your Uber driver to give you a bad review.
order like a pro tony saputo
Americano (Campari and sweet vermouth)
dave greteman A beer and a shot of Bruto Americano or Luxardo Bitter
ted kilgore
Campari or Contratto Bitter and grapefruit juice
terry oliver Aperol spritzer or Campari and soda
tim wiggins Sherry Daiquiri
BITTER SOUR
SESSION DAIQUIRI
Courtesy of Frazer’s Terry Oliver
Courtesy of Retreat and Yellowbelly’s Tim Wiggins
1 SERVING 1 SERVING 2 oz. Suze ¾ oz. lemon juice ¾ oz. simple syrup ½ oz. Cynar Lemon twist, for garnish • Combine the Suze, lemon juice and simple syrup in a shaker. Fill ²∕³ full with ice, shake vigorously 20 seconds and fine strain into a rocks glass over 1 large ice cube. Float the Cynar on top and garnish with the lemon twist.
1 oz. fino sherry 1 oz. blanc vermouth ¾ oz. lime juice ¾ oz. simple syrup • Combine all ingredients in an icefilled shaker, shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
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G u o ta i Premium Lite Baijiu Baijiu is a Chinese spirit traditionally distilled from sorghum and wheat. This malty, vegetal bottle takes the edge off baijiu’s funk for the Western palate and keeps the alcohol much lower than the traditional version. $22. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com
Ocho Cientos Sotol Bl anco
Sunora B ac a n o r a
Unlike agave-based tequila and mezcal, this Mexican spirit is distilled from the sotol plant. Ocho Cientos’ unaged expression is a little grassy with a hint of sweetness; it also comes in reposado and añejo versions. $43. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com
Distilled in Mexico’s Sonora region from the agave Pacifica plant, this unaged spirit has a subtle sweetness and distinctive maltiness that separates it from its cousins, tequila and mezcal. $44. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com
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Ohishi Single Sherry Cask Whisky Sherry comes through in the light amber color and the nutty, figgy nose and palate of this Japanese rice whisky aged in sherry casks. $63. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com
FOS Greek Mastiha This Greek liqueur is distilled from the sap of the mastic tree, found on the island of Chios. The unusual spirit is sweet, herbal and vegetal with a hint of citrus. $33. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com
Guide to Drinking 2018
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
GLOBAL SPIRIT
Tired of imbibing the usual subjects? Try these under-the-radar international tipples to expand your palate and your horizons. – Matt Sorrell
Guide to Drinking 2018
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