April 2023

MATCHDAY FLAVOR

YOUR GUIDE TO EATING AT CITYPARK SOCCER STADIUM

APRIL 2023 • VOLUME 23, ISSUE 4

PUBLISHER

EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR

DIGITAL EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR DESIGNER

EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR

PROOFREADER

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE EVENTS COORDINATOR

LISTINGS EDITOR

FACT-CHECKER

INTERN

Allyson Mace

Meera Nagarajan

Liz Wolfson

Lauren Healey

Iain Shaw

Meera Nagarajan

Michelle Volansky

Lauren Healey

Stacy Schweizer

Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Michelle Volansky

Grace Admiraal, Glenn Bardgett, Meera Nagarajan, Iain Shaw, Liz Wolfson

Allyson Mace

Kelli Jones

Amy Hyde

Amy Hyde

Alexander Olson

Grace Admiraal

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2023– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of

the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors

with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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NICHOLAS BOGNAR

INDO & SADO

Position: Chef/Owner

Married? No

Kids? No

Where are you originally from? STL

Where did you go to school? St. Louis Community CollegeForest Park

How did you get to where you are? I started working at my mother's restaurant when

I was 10. I continued to learn, moved away to work in some great restaurants. Came home and took a leap of faith that St. Louis was ready for a whole new kind of Asian restaurant.

New things going on in your restaurant: We are opening Sado. A building my family and I own. Completely rehabbed and absolutely stunning. Serving the best sushi we possibly can, dry-aged fish and a selection of wagyu beef.

Favorite menu item: Isaan hamachi

Three cool facts:

• I do Muay Thai.

• I love video games.

• I love thrifting.

What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item? Yanagiba sushi knife

Indo, 1641D Tower Grove Ave, St. Louis, indo-stl.com Sado, 5201 Shaw Ave, St. Louis, sado-stl.com

If you’ve never experienced the ways green Sichuan peppercorns invigorate a dish, the boiled fish with Chinese green pepper at ChiliSpot is a revelation. Lesser known than their red cousins, green huajiao (“flower pepper”) impart a similar numbing heat, but their herbal, floral quality adds a surprising, pleasing twist. ChiliSpot also offers this dish with chicken or beef, but the smooth, flaky texture of the fish is a perfect foil for the silky broth, which also includes green peppercorn oil. Bean sprouts and spears of cucumber add a crunchy counterpoint to proceedings.

ChiliSpot, 7930 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.925.8711, bestspicy.com

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

IN THE KNOW

FIND YOUR FARMER

Spring is here, making it an excellent time to reacquaint ourselves with our region’s bounty of locally grown fruits, vegetables and other culinary delights. Find Your Farmer is an excellent resource for buying farm-fresh produce and other pantry staples (including frozen/premade items) on your own schedule.

The process is simple: Place your order by noon on Monday for delivery on Wednesday. Orders are delivered in insulated bags packed with ice packs to help keep things fresh in case you’re not home when they’re dropped off. We love how simple the online shopping interface is to use and that all item descriptions include the location, growing practices and other details about the producer, helping us make informed buying decisions.

find-your-farmer.com

DRINK THIS

Expand your wine world with this dry white wine made from the Godello grape, which thrives in Spain’s Galicia region. With minerality like a rock from a spring-fed river and lovely acidity for freshness, this citrusdriven white shines best while sharing a table with any fish or seafood. We can’t help but dream of Oysters Rockefeller awaiting our Papa.

$22. Chateau Maplewood, 7326 Manchester Ave., Maplewood, 314.899.0105, chateaumaplewood.com

Glenn Bardgett is wine director at Annie Gunn’s.

Macarons, Tarts& Cakes, Éclairs, Napoleon, Croissants, Lavazza Euro Coffees, Iced Drinks, Gelato, Fine Chocolates and more!

hit list 5 new places to try this month

opposite page: the pitch; this page, from top: jumbo bavarian pretzel at the pitch, fish and chips at the pitch

AFGHAN KABOB

HOUSE

Kebabs are rarely a bad choice, but at Afghan Kabob House, exploring beyond the eponymous kebab section is worth the extra effort. We were obsessed with the bolani, a flaky filled flatbread served with a mint dipping sauce. We tried the potato, but it’s also available with a leek filling; next time we won’t hesitate to order both.

Mantu – delicate pasta dumplings stuffed with ground beef – is dressed with yogurt sauce and lentils and garnished with dried mint, which plays nicely with the richness of the beef and lentils. Aushak, a flat, half-moon shaped dumpling stuffed with a leek filling and likewise topped with lentils, is a similarly tangy, comforting dish.

3500 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.449.1110

CHICKEN SCRATCH

Chicken Scratch, which first opened inside City Foundry STL, has brought its beautiful roasted chicken and fried chicken sandwiches to its first freestanding location. The new carryout spot in Glendale builds on the original menu, with new ideas like a snacks section with crispy chickpeas, roasted shishito peppers and potato skins

Move over bacon – Chicken Scratch’s potato skins use crispy chicken skin instead of the usual porky bits along with cream cheese, cheddar and Farm Spirit’s chile crisp for a smart and spicy twist on the traditional version. Other new menu items include a Caesar chicken wrap, a couple of salads and new sides like green beans with bacon and onions and sweet potatoes with buttermilk dressing.

9900 Manchester Road, Glendale, 314.274.2254, chxscratchstl.com

The Pitch effortlessly evokes the look and feel of a big-city British pub with high ceilings, leather upholstery and chandeliers. Certain dishes transport you to that part of the world, such as fish and chips and a chicken pot pie that’s ideally shared between two to leave room for sides. The broader menu is a crowd-pleasing collection of shareable bar snacks and sandwiches that include meat from New York City’s famous Carnegie Deli. Even if you’re primarily here for a beer, order the jumbo Bavarian pretzel, served with beer cheese and a potent horseradish mustard. Despite the fine beer selection, the frozen Irish coffee is the must-have drink. St. Louis City SC’s CityPark stadium is just across Market Street, but The Pitch serves sports fans seven days a week. Grab a couch or armchair in one of nine lounge areas, and choose your team’s game on your own personal screen.

2 S. 20th St. (inside Union Station), St. Louis, 314.802.3400, thepitch-stl.com

THE PITCH

opposte page: the bar at tim's chrome bar; this page from top: a seating area and a gimme gimme gimlet at tim's

Now under new ownership with a stylish renovation, Tim’s Chrome Bar makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a time capsule. The design of this revived South City staple is cozy and ’70s. There are patterns and textures everywhere: flowers on the ceiling, plaid wallpaper in one corner and pink shag carpet on the bar. The enlarged space features plenty of tables and chairs, as well as comfy couches outfitted with vintage melamine TV trays. The food and drinks fit the theme too: After-school classics like housemade pepperoni pizza rolls with ranch for dipping are larger than the freezer section version but just as enjoyable. Bugles – yes, Bugles – with French onion dip and crudites are another delightful throwback. On the drinks side, the Gimme Gimme Gimlet with gin, strawberry, lime and edible glitter, as well as the Tim’s Punch of the Moment with vodka, Kool-Aid, citrus and a tiny scoop of sherbet, are the kind of drinks that make you forget the place and time.

4736 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.742.7881, timschromebar.com

Kain Tayo’s relocation from Trenton, Illinois, to Midtown is a welcome addition to the area’s slowly expanding dining options. Fans of chicken and rice must try the complexly flavored, impossibly tender chicken adobo. Marinated and cooked in a combination of soy sauce and vinegar, seasoned with bay leaves, peppercorns and garlic and served with rice, it’s a superlative example of what the menu refers to as the Philippines’ national dish. We also tried the pancit, a stir-fried noodle dish with chicken and pork, and loved the textual combination of the glassy, extra fine rice noodles with tender meat and crisp, lightly cooked vegetables like celery, cabbage and carrots.

2700 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.396.2110, kaintayostl.com

TIM'S CHROME BAR

KAIN TAYO FILIPINO CUISINE

chrome bar PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

M c DOWELL

Chef Cary McDowell’s career started with a handwritten letter requesting an apprenticeship at famed French restaurant Lutèce in New York City. He left his parents’ home in Arkansas to apprentice there and, later, at Restaurant Bertrand in Greenwich, Connecticut, owned by Christian Bertrand, a former executive chef at Lutèce. (A portrait of McDowell making souffles at Bertrand’s now-closed restaurant hangs inside the dining room at Wright’s Tavern, where McDowell is executive chef.) During that time, he learned how to clean Dover sole, break down live lobsters and make puff pastry. He also learned discipline. “I get excited about making the simple things because there’s nowhere to hide,” he said. “To have the discipline and the desire to make things perfect every single time, that’s the essence of my profession; that’s what my job is.” –

Meera Nagarajan

Hot Souffles, Restaurant Bertrand, 1991

“Restaurant Bertrand in Connecticut – that’s me right there, doing souffles. I was fortunate to have a pretty decent French apprenticeship experience. There is a hesitancy to let somebody very temporary do something significant. So, if you were lucky like I was, you got thrown in and you started doing stuff. That photograph on the wall is literally me learning how to make hot souffles, which is an art. They’re tedious, they’re exact, they’re delicate. What I love about it most is it proves that if you slow down and pay attention to every detail in the steps of making it, if you have the discipline to do that every time, [then] every time it works perfectly. Christian Bertrand taught me how to make that dish. It was the culmination of three or four basic lessons on my first couple days of work.

The photographer was a wonderful guy too, Reuben Dauzoir; he was a pretty happening New York art guy. He came out of the club days of Studio 54, and he lived above me in our little apartment in Port Chester, New York. … He gave me that print for my graduation from culinary school; my parents hung that on their wall. My dad just passed away last year, and so I had it and when we were gathering stuff [for Wright’s Tavern], Matt [McGuire] asked if we could put it up. So, there it is.”

Dessert by Francois Payard, Daniel, 1993 “My parents came on my mother’s birthday to eat at Daniel [in New York City]. At that time, Julia Child and her friends had been coming to lunch there and knew [chef-owner] Daniel [Boulud] really well, and she would come back and say hi to us in the kitchen, so I got to somewhat know her.

Mom and Dad were there for the first time – they were having lunch, and Julia Child was also in the dining room. When Daniel and I went out to say hello to my parents and, in [Boulud’s] way, bring a whole bunch

of stuff for the dessert course … Mrs. Child said, ‘Cary!’ My mother heard her say my name, and so she connected those dots, like, ‘Oh my God, Julia Child knows my son’s name?’ It was pretty overwhelming, and that’s really what made my stock go up in my parents’ eyes.”

Halibut, Wright’s Tavern, 2023

“King Louie was sort of Matt [McGuire]’s art project, and I helped his young folks become the chefs they needed to be. I had other jobs then, so I was never officially there, but my heart was always there; whatever Matt needed, I was always available.

As Matt and I discussed what was going to be on the [Wright’s Tavern] menu, one of the things we talked about was a halibut dish at King Louie. It was potato crusted, [but] it wasn’t quite this refined. I don’t want to say that to belabor the King Louie’s version, but the components are all the same. It’s just representative of how long we’ve been going down the road. This iteration wouldn’t have been possible then, but it is now because of all the things we’ve learned. It all started with a conversation about, ‘Remember how good that was? We should definitely have that on the menu here.’

The way the halibut exists at this moment is the result of that whole process of consideration, memory, inspiration and then ultimately the need to have something that’s unique to here. The way we figured out how to do the potato scales is not new – and by no means am I the first to do this – but, for us, it’s an evolution of what it was previously, and that’s the important thing. Matt and I wanted to do things that were recognizable and comfortable and classic. We don’t want to do riffs on things; we want to do the best thing. All roads have led to [Wright’s Tavern], it’s true, and I get really emotional about it. This is what we were always working toward, and here we are.”

MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE

CARY

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

EXECUTIVE CHEF, WRIGHT’S TAVERN

R A W P OW E R

BY LIZ WOLFSON

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

Raw oysters are one of nature’s great delicacies. Briny and slippery, they are great on their own, dressed only in their naturally occurring brine (known as liquor) and a little lemon juice, though it can be fun to mix it up with a splash of hot sauce or mignonette (a vinegar-based condiment). Here are a few places around town where you can reliably treat yourself to our favorite bivalve.

Broadway Oyster Bar

Choose from two different varieties: Connecticut farm-raised Blue Point oysters (half-dozen: $14; dozen: $27) or Louisiana oysters (half-dozen: $13; dozen: $25). Both are served with

Yellowbelly

Fresh oysters are served with your choice of kimchi water and pickled daikon or pineapple tepache, chile flake and lime.

$4 each. 4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.499.1509, yellowbellystl.com

Annie Gunn’s

Northeast oysters are served with Champagne mignonette; available at lunch and dinner service.

$3.50 each. 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, anniegunns.com

Bistro La Floraison

Maine oysters are served with seaweed mignonette and fermented chile hot sauce.

horseradish and housemade, spicy gin cocktail sauce. Special pricing on Louisiana oysters is also available on weekdays: $1.50 a piece from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday.

736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com

Oceano Bistro

A half-dozen Blue Point oysters are served with horseradish cocktail sauce and cucumber mignonette. Check out their special pricing at happy hour: 3:30 to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday and 2:30 to 4:30 p.m. Saturday, when the price drops to $10.

Half-dozen: $18. 44 N. Brentwood Blvd., Clayton, 314.721.9400, oceanobistro.com

Half-dozen: $26. 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880, bistrolafloraison.com

Olive + Oak

Your choice of East or West Coast oysters are served with cocktail sauce, mignonette and lemon.

$3.50 each. 216 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoak.oohosp.com

Surf & Sirloin

Blue Point oysters are available at both lunch and dinner service, but don’t miss the lunch special, when they’re four for $16.

Half-dozen: $24 (dinner service pricing). 13090 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.822.3637, surfandsirloin.com

YELLOWBELLY PHOTO COURTESY OF ANDREW TRINH; BISTRO LA FLORAISON PHOTO COURTESY OF BISTRO LA FLORAISON

MATCHDAY FLAVOR

For the discerning eater, the experience of exploring many sports stadium concourses is an underwhelming Mobius loop of concessions offering near-identical menus of predictable items and little in the way of local flavor or independent restaurant presence. At its CityPark stadium, however, St. Louis City SC is pioneering an ambitious approach to in-stadium dining that starkly contrasts that offered in other stadiums –not only in the U.S., but around the world.

Over the past two years, the club has revealed the City Flavor program, developed by chief experience officer Matt Sebek in collaboration with the club’s “flavor officer,” Niche Food Group owner Gerard Craft, and hospitality partner Levy Restaurants. The program envisions matchday food that’s as exciting and diverse as the cuisines and communities that make St. Louis’ food scene one of the city’s most vibrant assets.

Walking the concourse at CityPark, the first thing you’ll notice is just how many local, independent restaurants are represented. Anyone who attends live sporting events knows this is not the norm. “There are stadiums that have some local vendors, but it’s like three or four local vendors, and a lot of times they’re the bigger players in the area,” Craft said. “We really wanted to give the opportunity to so many small restaurants that normally might not have the opportunity to go into some of these places.”

Normally, smaller restaurants are shut out of stadiums by pay-to-play fee structures. Not so at CityPark, Craft said. “For the people that we’ve picked, we’ve opened it up for

free,” he said. “No entry fee at all to get in the door. The [club’s] ownership bought all their equipment, everything, outfitted them.” The amount of rent partners pay is calculated as a percentage of sales. “If they do bad one day, they pay less,” Craft said.

Balkan Treat Box co-owner Loryn Nalic described her excitement at becoming one of the restaurant partners at CityPark. “Once you see the project and everybody shows you what’s going on, what the plans are, you realize you’re a part of St. Louis history,” she said. “It’s just an overwhelming feeling of being a part of something new and different and cool that’s just going to make the city even better.”

From La Tiendita’s tacos to Chez

Ali’s jerk wings and patties to The Fattened Caf’s pork belly sisig, City Flavor is intentional about reflecting St. Louis in its fullest sense, bringing in restaurants from across the region representing a broad range of cuisines, communities and demographics. “We really wanted to try to start seeing what the demographics of a soccer match look like,” Craft said. “It’s such a diverse

sport, and we wanted to try to have as many people feel seen with their cuisine.”

Bringing all these restaurants on board didn’t happen overnight. Very few of the restaurant partners involved in City Flavor have any experience operating inside stadiums. Most only have one brick-andmortar location, and several are very small, family-run businesses. “This is a big deal – for your next location, you’re serving 24,000 people,” Craft said. What you see on matchday is the result of a long and ongoing process of building relationships, trust and communication between all parties, from the restaurants to Craft, Levy and St. Louis City SC.

Craft acknowledges there are “growing pains,” but he said he’s not expecting immediate perfection. With City Flavor, he believes that the club has assembled a group of restaurateurs with the ability, energy and drive to improve one game at a time. “Quite frankly, this has gone better than I could have ever imagined,” he said. “And I think only because there are so many talented people involved. We just

previous spread: tacos from la tiendita; opposite page: balkan treat box and steve's hot dogs inside of city park; loryn and edo nalic, co-owners of balkan treat box

had night one in a restaurant. And night one in a restaurant for 24,000 people.”

Nalic said Balkan Treat Box co-owners Edo and Emir Nalic were delighted by the energy customers brought for the first home game. “Customers were yelling their names,” she said. “I think people are getting excited, because it’s familiar and that’s not normal –you don’t go to a game and walk up to get food or drinks and see the people you know.”

It would be easy to assume fans of other teams have it as good as we do, with their own version of City Flavor. Well, pinch yourself, because they don’t. Scan the feed of the Twitter account @FootyScran, which posts photos of soccer stadium concessions from around the world, for a reminder that great stadium food is, though not a total outlier, certainly not to be taken for granted.

“This is something that’s never been done in sports. There’s a reason: because it’s hard,” Craft said. “The ownership group wants to leave a legacy, and they want to show that a stadium can represent a city and not just a bunch of large corporate brands.” – Iain Shaw

WHEN YOU NEED SOMETHING HANDHELD

Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery

Main concourse, section 118; Upper concourse, section 211

Union Loafers’ Bavarian pretzel is kind of perfect. The dough is naturally leavened, yielding a pretzel with tangy flavor and chewy texture. Dip yours in grainy mustard or the iconic sports arena condiment, neon-colored cheese. It’s all good.

Nudo

Upper concourse, section 218

The crab Rangoon at Nudo is made fresh at the stadium. When just fried, these crispy, cheesy pockets pair perfectly with a beer – try 2nd Shift Brewing’s Brewligans hazy IPA or Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Balkan Lager.

Mayo Ketchup

Main concourse, section 110

The empanadas at Mayo Ketchup are the stuff of legend. The tender, flaky dough is filled with picadillo-style ground beef flavored with tomatoes, onions and spices. It’s the ideal handheld snack for when you’re cruising around the stadium.

SWEET TREATS

Bold Spoon Creamery

Ultra Club*, upper concourse (entrances near sections 242 and 251)

Whether it’s hot or cold out, Bold Spoon Creamery’s ice cream is always in season. They’re made with local cream and quality ingredients. Their salted chocolate is sensational on its own but, in combination with a scoop of more unusual flavors like goat cheese and fig jam or crème brulee flecked with shards of caramelized sugar, it makes for an irresistible trio.

Ices Plain and Fancy

Main concourse, near section 139

The nitro ice creams are made with a dash of liquid nitrogen to flash churn the custard base,

giving the finished product a silky smooth, dense texture. We’re partial to the classic cookies and cream but vanilla , chocolate and the wild-card, cherry cordial studded with chocolate pieces, are always a great idea.

VEGETARIAN

The Fattened Caf

Ultra Club*, upper concourse (entrances near sections 242 and 251)

Yes, CityPark has interesting vegetarian dishes! At The Fattened Caf, you can find meaty options like Filipino pork belly topped with calamansi (citrus) cream and chicken longganisa (chicken sausage) with jasmine rice. But their chargrilled eggplant flavored with tomatoes, onions and soy vinegar, served with rice and topped with salted duck eggs and quick-pickled red cabbage with ginger, took us by surprise.

DD Mau

Main concourse, near section 101

We love the filling and fresh vermicelli bowl at DD Mau. It’s a pile of noodles served with red cabbage, lettuce, pickled veggies and cucumbers topped with crunchy peanuts and crispy shallots. The bao sliders, also available in a vegetarian option, have a soft, sweet bun with veggies, red cabbage, pickles and cilantro.

WHEN ALL YOU WANT IS A SLICE

Pie Guy

Main concourse, near section 118

We’ve long been fans of a late-night slice at Pie Guy in The Grove. Here, the menu is pared down to a giant slice of New York-style cheese or pepperoni pizza on a paper plate. It’s the pepperoni for us.

Dewey’s

Main concourse, near section 142

Dewey’s also has pizzas by the slice in either cheese or pepperoni, but don’t miss the garlic knots made from their pizza dough.

IF TACOS ARE WHAT YOU CRAVE Malinche

Ultra Club*, upper concourse (entrances near sections 242 and 251)

Malinche’s Del Trompo tacos come in corn tortillas filled with achiote-roasted pork with pineapple, cilantro, onions and lime. Don’t forget a side of their esquites, street corn flavored with queso fresco, lime and piquin for a spicy kick.

La Tiendita

Main concourse, near section 140

This unmissable taco stop is making carne asada and pollo pibil tacos served in their thin-yet-sturdy housemade tortillas. The pibil sauce for the chicken is brightly colored from achiote and has layered heat with a fruity finish. The carne asada served with cilantro and onion is simpler, but a dash of their salsa kicks it up a notch.

Padrino’s

Main concourse, near section 120

You can always opt for the classic al pastor tacos – pork marinated with onion and pineapple and served with onion and cilantro in a corn tortilla – but the tacos de papa, with potato, lettuce, cheese and sour cream served inside a crispy corn tortilla sounds like a winner. Whatever you choose, don’t miss their frozen house margaritas to wash it down.

SANDWICHES

Pastaria

Together Credit Union Club*, Upper concourse (entrance near section 135)

One of our favorites at Pastaria is the Caprese deli sandwich with fresh mozzarella, tomato, pesto aioli and arugula layered on a Union Loafers hoagie roll. The crucial ingredient is their giardiniera: pickled, spicy vegetables in a little olive oil that deliver heat and brine to each bite. Their Italian deli sandwich puts the giardiniera to work too, balancing the richness of prosciutto, salami, ham and provolone.

clockwise from top left: tacos de papa at padrino’s; (from left) rafa rosas, enrique robles and christina robles of padrino’s; special salad from amighetti’s; steve ewing of steve’s hot dogs; vegan kebab at balkan treat box; the block special burger; david sandusky of beast craft bbq co.; (from left) sous chef john howe, head chef maría gutiérrez molina and co-owner angel jiménezgutiérrez at malinche

Amighetti’s

Upper concourse, near section 207

Whether you want the Amighetti’s special sandwich – their version of a classic Italian sub loaded with ham, roast beef, salami and Provel balanced with pepperoncini, pickles and onions –or the turkey and Provel or veggie sandwiches, they are bringing the familiar flavors of The Hill to CityPark.

UPGRADED BURGERS AND HOT DOGS

Farmtruk

Main concourse, near section 148

As you walk past Farmtruk you can smell the aroma of the meat sizzling on the flattop; it would be wise to stop. Their Farmtruk burger is made with Missouri grass-fed beef, cheddar, smoky bacon and crispy fried onions and served on a brioche bun. We’d be remiss if we didn’t suggest also ordering the brisket mac – it’s saucy, cheesy and has Red Hot Riplet crumbles on top.

BrassBurger

Together Credit Union Club*, Upper concourse (entrance near section 135)

Whether it’s a single, double or vegetarian burger made with black beans, they’re all winners. They get served up with American cheese, dijonnaise, onion and pickles on a Companion bun. It’s a classic combo of ingredients that is most complete when paired with their marshmallow or coffee soft serve ice cream for dessert.

The Block

Upper concourse, near section 219

The Block has built a reputation around sourcing local ingredients. Their eponymous Special Burger is the one to get. Housemade bacon jam brings a smoky-sweet note that plays off caramelized onion and sharp white cheddar. It’s all tucked into a squishy potato bun and served with a side of fries seasoned with garlic and herbs.

Steve’s Hot Dogs

Main concourse, near section 105; also accessible to the general public from outside the east side of the stadium

If you’re looking for something more than a hot dog with mustard (not that there’s anything wrong with that), look no further. At Steve’s, standouts include the Bacon Bacon Jamaican with grilled onions, peppers and a honey-chipotle barbecue sauce or the St. Louis CITY Dog with provolone, banana peppers and smoky mustard.

WHEN YOU’RE STARVING Chez Ali

Main concourse, near section 108

You will not go hungry at Chez Ali. From the fried samosas with an array of fillings to the patties with curry chicken, nem (similar to spring rolls) and fried plantains, there is much to choose from. Maybe best of all are the spicy-sweet jerk wings, with notes of allspice and heat from Scotch bonnet peppers; they’re actually chargrilled chicken thighs – so more substantial than a wing – and served with pickled vegetables, ciabatta bread and a zesty habanero aioli.

Beast Butcher & Block

Main concourse, near section 128

The pork steak is beloved by St. Louis barbecue enthusiasts. At Beast, it’s special. They butcher the meat then smoke it with hickory wood, baste it with a thinner, St. Louis-style barbecue sauce, and torch it. The result is a giant, juicy, tender cut of meat that’s got a caramelized crust with charred fat and developed flavors, sandwiched in a soft bun and served with pickles.

WRAP SNACKS

Anthonino’s Taverna

Upper concourse, near section 222

Go for the gyro! A combination of beef and lamb is rolled in a fluffy pita and served with tomato, onion, cooling tzatziki and feta for a sharp, salty bite.

Balkan Treat Box

Main concourse, near section 105; also accessible to the general public from outside the east side of the stadium

Balkan Treat Box’s popularity seems to grow by the day, and with new offerings exclusively at CityPark, there’s only more to love. Go for the beef or vegan kebabs with strips of beef or plant-based meat, tomato, onion, cabbage and ajvar kajmak (a savory roasted red pepper spread) wrapped up in their Turkish wood-fired flatbread. Another newcomer to the BTB menu is their orange-pistachio chocolate chip cookie that has bright and bold citrus flavor, bringing a familiar dessert to new heights.

Lona’s

Lil’ Eats

Ultra Club*, upper concourse (entrances near sections 242 and 251)

This Fox Park eatery is known for offering vegetarian and vegan-friendly dishes. Their tofu wrap has stir-fried rice, a cool, refreshing lime, ginger and peanut cabbage slaw, mixed lettuces dressed with a smoked vinaigrette and wrapped up inside a flour tortilla. It’s got bright pops of flavor from ginger and vinegar with a satisfying crunch from the cabbage.

WHEN YOU’RE IN A RUSH

If you’re dialed in to the game or just don’t want to bother with waiting in line, take it easy: You can order ahead from these spots through the STL CITY SC app and pick it up once it’s ready.

FarmTruk

Amighetti’s

The Block Balkan Treat Box

Beast Butcher & Block

Padrino’s Steve’s Hot Dogs

*Note: Club seating ticket required for entry to Ultra Club and Together Credit Union Club sections.

Good news, beer fans: CityPark’s drink outlets are well stocked with options from stars of the St. Louis craft scene. Here’s where to head to grab a can or draft from one of the locals.*

HELLCAT PUB: Located in the stadium’s northeast corner, this double-sided bar features a solid lineup of local drafts. When we were there, taps dedicated to local breweries included Urban Chestnut’s Balkan Lager (their collab with fellow CityPark vendor Balkan Treat Box), 2nd Shift’s Brewligans hazy IPA, and the iconic Civil Life American Brown Ale, among others.

GRAB-AND-GO MARKETS: Like the bars, these high-tech stores, stocked with snacks and many of the same local cans as the bars, are also located throughout the stadium. Just scan your card on your way in, grab what you need and exit; the store’s smart technology will charge your card on the way out.

BARS: The many bars spread throughout the stadium’s two main levels are well-stocked with tall cans from local microbrewers like Schlafly , 4 Hands Brewing Co . and Perennial Artisan Ales

*Note: Like all vendors at CityPark, those listed here are cashless.

ALEX WARD

OWNER, FOOD PEDALER

Bike-powered delivery service Food Pedaler celebrates 10 years of delivering local restaurant meals to diners this year. Current owner Alex Ward first joined the business in 2018, when he started as a pedaler following an internship that involved spending most of the day behind a desk. When Ward expressed interest in growing the business around the same time founder Tim Kiefer showed interest in selling, it was the “right place, right time” for Kiefer to pass the torch to Ward. Here, Ward takes us behind the scenes at Food Pedaler and explains some of the finer details of the job of a pedaler, like how they keep deliveries dry in wet weather. – Liz

Wolfson

“I’ve been a lifelong cyclist. I’ve always loved riding my bike. I grew up in Webster, so growing up, I would go on Grant’s Trail like three times a week, just long bike rides.”

“We work with approximately 25 restaurants. I would say we do about 30 orders a day.”

“We deliver with restaurants in and around downtown and Central West End. The delivery zones meet at about Compton. So, you could order [from] Central West End-area restaurants to Midtown, on the west side of Compton. And then on the east side, we work with downtown restaurants.”

“People can order through our website or our mobile app, and then we get a notification of what the order is, who’s ordering, where’s it going to, where’s it coming from. And then we send the restaurant the order details.”

“I’ve been able to automate a lot of that process. So, there are a lot of orders that I don’t even need to manage; they go straight to a printer at the restaurant.”

“Owning this business and working on the tech side of things has really given me a huge education on automation technology that’s out there and making things as simple and streamlined as possible, for my

own sanity and so I can have the capacity to focus on the more creative side of things like marketing and PR.”

“At the moment, I’m focusing on reaching as many people as possible within our delivery area. There are still a lot of people in these few neighborhoods that we could reach, and who could benefit from our service, as well as a lot of really great restaurants who we’ve not partnered with yet. That would be the goal – to expand our list of partners in our current area.”

“Down the line, I certainly would love to expand to other areas – my first choice would be Tower Grove. But it all really depends on the interest that we get from restaurants in different parts of the city.”

“We deliver on everything besides ice and really thick snow, which remarkably, the winter this year has been so mild, that I think we only closed like one or two days when it was dangerously cold to be outside.”

“We all have really nice courier packs that are insulated and waterproof that keep the food at the right temperature, and they keep moisture from getting in.”

foodpedaler.com

AMIGHETTI’S

BY IAIN SHAW

In February, a familiar name in St. Louis bread baking and sandwiches returned to the Hill after a nearly four-year hiatus, restoring a legacy that began during the first World War. Amighetti’s opened its new Hill location in the former Hanneke Hardware & Industrial Supply Co. at 5390 Southwest Ave., less than a mile from the bakery’s former location at 5141 Wilson Ave.

“When I first told Marge that we were renovating the Hanneke building, she grabbed my arm and said, ‘Oh my gosh, that gives me chills,’” said Amighetti’s owner Anthony Favazza. He’s talking about Marge Amighetti, the widow of Louis “Junior” Amighetti and former co-owner of Amighetti’s. Marge is long retired but remains a trusted advisor and friend to Favazza. “She is very much alive and well in Shrewsbury,” Favazza said.

“Even today, she is such an ambitious, driven person and really remains our biggest cheerleader and our biggest fan,” he added. “She’s still mentally sharp and grills me on how many slices of beef I’m getting to a pound, and what does a pound cost, and what am I charging for a sandwich? She knows all the numbers.”

Junior’s father, Louis (the Americanized version of Luigi, his birth name), founded Amighetti’s in 1916 at 5111 Daggett Ave. on the Hill, before moving the bakery to 5141 Wilson Ave. in 1921. Louis would bake bread in the early hours, then cross the street to deliver bread for the priests at that other pillar of Italian American life on the Hill, St. Ambrose Catholic Church, letting himself in using a key he was given by the church. Favazza now has that key, a gift to him from Marge Amighetti.

By the 1950s, the business was well established among the Hill’s top bakeries, with a long list of wholesale clients as well as retail customers. “They did some pastries and cakes and things, but really from the earliest days, they were very well known for bread,” Favazza said. Junior took over the business in the 1950s and was “a hell of a baker” according to Favazza. But it was his wife Marge’s invention that would define Amighetti’s next act.

In 1969, Marge decided Amighetti’s should sell sandwiches. Junior was skeptical, but

the determined Marge spent eight months working out her recipe. She eventually arrived at a combination of roast beef, salami and ham layered on Amighetti’s bread with cheese, lettuce, pickle, tomato, onion, pepperoncini and what would become Amighetti’s signature sauce.

The Amighetti’s Special was a huge hit, and soon enough Amighetti’s was known as much for its sandwiches as its bread. Before Marge and Junior expanded into the adjacent space on the corner of Wilson and Marconi to add seating, customers would take their sandwiches over to eat them on the steps of St. Ambrose. “They had to start locking the church doors because everyone was coming inside the church and eating their sandwiches,” Favazza said.

Expansion came in the 1980s via a licensing agreement with Anheuser-Busch that allowed the brewing giant to open a series of Amighetti’s locations across the region, with Marge and Junior retaining control of the Hill location but selling worldwide rights to the brand as well as its recipes. The broader goal, Favazza said, was to go national, achieving what St. Louis Bread Co. would later do with Panera. A downtown location at Broadway and Chestnut Street had the capacity to bake bread for a planned 30 Amighetti’s branches in the St. Louis area; it got off to a blockbuster start during the Cardinals’ 1987 run to the World Series.

Downtown restaurants and bars, however, weren’t so keen. The way they saw it, they were selling gallons of Anheuser-Busch beer while the brewery was effectively cutting into their revenues. “Within about two weeks of opening, there was actually a boycott at about 20 local restaurants,” Favazza said. “Budweiser and Michelob disappeared from a big chunk of downtown St. Louis, and in came Miller and Coors.”

Anheuser-Busch soon decided to change course, selling their Amighetti’s locations to another company. Eventually, only two locations remained, the Hill location and a Rock Hill location. Favazza bought the Amighetti’s brand and the Rock Hill location in 2016. Three years later, the independently owned Hill location closed, with Favazza citing

a licensing dispute between Amighetti’s and the owners of the shop on the Hill.

Favazza said he always planned to bring Amighetti’s back to the Hill, and that old regulars will be satisfied with what they find. “I think the core of what we’re doing is true to the origins, and you definitely would recognize it compared to what it was even 50 years ago,” he said.

Favazza said the response from customers and neighboring businesses has been “tremendous,” but bringing Amighetti’s sandwiches back to the neighborhood is just phase one of his mission. The next step is reestablishing the bakery operation, also in the Hanneke building. The footprint will be very reminiscent of the former location, with the retail bakery operating out of a separate entrance adjacent in the same building as the sandwich shop. For now, Amighetti’s is sourcing its bread from Fazio’s Bakery.

Favazza has made changes at Amighetti’s since taking the business over – for example, adding items like kale salads – but don’t all businesses need to move with the times?

Amighetti’s is certainly a story of innovation and reinvention. Those “chills” Marge Amighetti felt when Favazza told her about the new location were a memory of an encounter she had at the Hanneke hardware store in the late 1960s when she was shopping for bowls to be used in her research for the Amighetti’s Special. “A rival baker from another bakery that is still in business and very well known in the neighborhood was in Hanneke when she was there,” Favazza said. Asked what she was doing buying so many bowls, Marge explained she was getting into the sandwich business.

Years later, Marge bumped into that bakery owner again. Taking Marge to one side, the baker said “I owe you an apology. We all made fun of you. We all laughed and said, ‘What a fool she is to get into the sandwich business. What does she know about sandwiches?’”

Ruefully, the baker told Marge, “Boy, I wish I had gotten into the sandwich business.”

PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK

APRIL

BY GRACE ADMIRAAL

Delmar Hall. My Posse in Effect, a local Beastie Boys Tribute Band, will provide the entertainment while Mission Taco will have its food truck parked outside. Concertgoers can also enjoy $2 tacos and tequila shots at the late-night happy hour at Mission Taco’s Delmar location. 100% of ticket sales will go to local nonprofit Friends of Kids with Cancer. Tickets available online.

‘Savour the Sparkle’ Chocolate and Sparkling Wine Tasting

April 1 to 30, Cafe la Vie, Le Méridien St. Louis Clayton, 7730 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, 314.863.0400, samg.bz/savourthesparkle

This month is the last chance to experience Café la Vie’s wine and chocolate pairing featuring chocolate from Honeymoon Chocolates, a bean-to-bar chocolate factory in Clayton. Selected by experts, the sparkling wine enhances the flavors of each chocolate. The tasting is available as a stand-alone experience or as dessert after dinner. Reservations available through OpenTable.

Flippity Flop Breakfast and Easter Egg-Citement

April 1, 2, 7 & 8 – 8 a.m. to noon, Eckert’s Belleville Farm, 951 S. Green Mount Road, Belleville, 800.745.0513, eckerts.com

Treat your kids (and yourself) to an Easter-themed breakfast at Eckert’s Country Restaurant followed by an Easter egg hunt. Kids can also enjoy various activities like animal petting pens, tractor rides and face painting. Reservations and tickets available online.

Mission Taco Joint 10-Year Anniversary Party

April 6 – 7 p.m., Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.5430, samg.bz/mtj10

Mission Taco is 10 years old and celebrating in style at

Easter Brunch

April 9 – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., 612 North, 612 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.241.3474, 612north.com

If you don’t want to cook on Easter but still want a delicious meal, then this event is for you. Event space 612 North is hosting a brunch buffet that includes chicken and waffles, biscuits and gravy, ham, quiche, mimosas and more. You’ll enjoy your food with a view of the Arch and downtown St. Louis, and you can even get a complimentary photo op with the Easter Bunny. Reservations available online and must be made before April 6.

A Proper 4/20

April 20 – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Steve’s Hot Dogs, 3145 S Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.5953, steveshotdogsstl.com With recreational cannabis now legal in Missouri, Proper Cannabis and Steve’s Hot Dogs wanted to pair up and celebrate. Come for the food specials infused with THC, and stay for the psychedelic reggae rock concert at Ritz Park and the 4/20-themed stand-up comedy show. Free admission.

St. Louis Earth Day Festival

April 22 & 23 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Muny Grounds, 1 Theatre Drive, St. Louis, 314.282.7533, earthday-365.org/festival/

The annual festival is back! This year, the theme is “Go Circular,” emphasizing “reusing” in reduce, reuse, recycle. Attendees can experience educational classes, yoga, musical performances, various food options (all of which are certified members of Green Dining Alliance) and much more. You don’t want to miss the largest Earth Day celebration in the Midwest. Free admission.

Wine Dinner: Wine Around the World at The Rack House

April 27 – 6:30 p.m., 5065 State Hwy. N, Cottleville, 636.244.0574, samg.bz/wineworld

Enjoy a culinary trip around the world without leaving the St. Louis region. The Rack is known for its fromscratch foods and extensive wine list. This event includes six courses, each paired with a hand-selected wine. A deposit can be made online with the remainder due the night of the event.

denotes a sauce-sponsored event

Food TOSSED is money LOS T

The average American consumer is throwing away $1,300 each year in wasted food.*

That’s 216 PINTS OF PILS from