B E S T N E W R E STAU R A N TS vicia: this year’s best new restaurant, p. 32
VICIA, PRIVADO, GRACE MEAT & THREE, BALKAN TREAT BOX, NUDO HOUSE, CATE ZONE CHINESE CAFE, POLITE SOCIETY, THE U.R.B., PIZZA HEAD, HI-POINTE DRIVE-IN, ST. LOUIS SOUP DUMPLINGS, SHAWARMA KING ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY December 2017
SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM
FREE, DECEMBER 2017 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I1
2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3
What’s your favorite new restaurant of 2017?
DECEMBER 2017 • VOLUME 17, ISSUE 12
PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Vicia, for sure
FACT CHECKER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR Definitely BLK INTERNS MKT Eats. All
Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Grace Meat Heather Hughes & Three Catherine Klene Matt Sorrell Catherine Klene Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Katie O’Connor Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Rachel Wilson Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Angie Rosenberg Isabella Espinoza Amy Hyde The Wood Amy Hyde Shack Rachel Wilson
sushi should come burrito-sized.
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2017 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
SAUCE MAGAZINE subscriptions are available for home delivery NAME__________________________________________________________ STREET ADDRESS_________________________________________________ CITY_______________________________ STATE ______ ZIP______________
SEND A $30 CHECK TO: SAUCE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTIONS for a 12-month subscription 1820 Chouteau
4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
•
St. Louis, MO 63103 December 2017
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5
6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
contents DECEMBER 2017
editors' picks 9 E AT THIS Tianjing-Style Bing at Bing Bing
by heather hughes 10
11 REASONS to go to Westport Social right now
by meera nagarajan
reviews 13 N E W AN D NOTABLE Das Bevo
by michael renner 16 LUNCH RUSH Kohn’s Kosher Deli & Restaurant
by stephanie zeilenga 19
NIGHTLIFE Frazer’s
by andrew barrett
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
dine & drink 21 A SE AT AT THE BAR
24 ELIXIR Old World beers to try now
by katie herrera 26 EFFICIENT KITCHEN Dried beans
by kellie hynes 29 MAKE THIS Holiday meatballs
by dee ryan
last course 46 STUFF TO DO by matt sorrell
Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
50 WHAT I D O
by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore
Reginald Quarles
December 2017
brathendl at das bevo p. 13
features 32
BE ST NE W RE STAUR ANTS OF 2017 by heather hughes, catherine klene, meera nagarajan and matt sorrell
COVER DETAILS Best New Restaurants of 2017 A sampling of dishes at Vicia, our best new restaurant of the year. Find out the other 11 restaurants that topped our list on p. 32. PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
CORRECTION: In our November issue, we incorrectly stated Frida’s name and website on p. 16.
by catherine klene
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7
8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
editors' picks
EAT THIS
Before Bing Bing opened off The Loop earlier this year, we had a jianbing-shaped hole in our hearts, and we didn’t even know it. Now we can’t imagine a time without the Tianjin-Style Bing. The Chinese crepe/ PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
burrito/magic-like street food starts with a super thin, tender eggy pancake wrapped around your choice of meat and sauce. Our dream combo is the slightly sweet barbecue pork and hoisin-like house sauce. Along with the standard scrambled eggs, Chinese pickles, lettuce, cilantro, scallion and crunchy wonton, it hits every silky, chewy, crunchy note you didn’t know you needed. BING BING, 567A MELVILLE AVE., UNIVERSITY CITY, 314.669.9229, FACEBOOK: BING BING December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9
2
Funnel cake fries, please.
3
We’re into these nachos for more than the cheese sauce. They’re made with crisp wonton skins riddled with air pockets, burnt ends from heaven and the occasional vinegar blast of pickled banana pepper.
7
Pop-a-Shot-style basketball hoops in the back are regulation-size. (Watch for a rogue elbow – competition gets stiff.)
8
With crowd noise and larger than life-sized players (one of the many TVs is 9-by-15 feet), it’s like you’re at the game – only better.
9 4
Big, comfy leather couches and other modern touches add sophistication to the warehouse-sized space. Westport Social 910 Westport Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights, 314.548.2876,
Karaoke in private rooms means you can make a fool of yourself to a select audience of your choosing.
10
When the energy gets too crazy inside, there are fire pits to cozy up next to on the patio.
westportsocial-stl.com
11 REASONS TO GO TO
5
WESTPORT SOCIAL R I G H T
The punch, made with Old Tom gin, Crown Royal, Giffard pamplemousse, lemon and yerba mate, is fresh and goes down super easy.
N O W
Westport Social is a versatile bar. You want to drink craft cocktails? No problem. How about getting crazy competitive while playing bocce ball? Sure thing. Even if you just want to sit in the corner with a glass of wine and a healthy-ish salad, you can do that, too. If you’re not convinced, here are 11 more reasons to go. – Meera Nagarajan
10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
1
Pingpong tables + a killer beer list = grown-up beer pong, basically.
Shuffleboard two ways: tabletop or on sprawling cruise ship-style floor courts. Those cues are fun even if you don’t know what you’re doing.
6
A solid wine list proves this isn’t just a bro bar – furmint, anyone?
December 2017
PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK AND MEERA NAGARAJAN
11
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11
12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
brathendl at das bevo
NE W A ND N OTA B L E
das bevo BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
After years of immobility, the iconic Bevo Mill windmill is spinning. The Dutchstyle structure at the corner of Gravois Avenue and Morgan Ford Road has been painstakingly restored to its former magnificence when August A. Busch Sr. had its Quixote-esque windmill built as a stopping point midway between the brewery and his Grant’s Farm estate 100 years ago. A restaurant is also back, including traditional Sunday brunch replete with cheddar and chive biscuits like those that once drew generations of after-church crowds.
new and notable DA S BEVO p. 13 / lunch rush KOHN ' S KOSHER DELI p. 16 / nightlife FR A ZER' S p. 19 December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13
14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
up to. The hexagonal Mill Room, with its grandiose arched ceiling accented by two beautiful Bavarian murals made from Austrian tile, offers a bit more privacy.
reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2
Unfamiliar with the food side of the hospitality business, the Schuchards teamed with Sugarfire Events to create a pub fare menu suited to beer drinking with heavy appetizers, sausage boards and sandwiches. It’s where you’ll find the excellent Das Bevo Burger: A satisfying 8-ounce beef patty slathered with savory, melty pub cheese and topped with a thin pickle slice and two crunchy pretzel-breaded onion rings on a grilled bun. The word is out about Anne Cronin and the malty, sausage-length pretzels she bakes in the basement. Their thin, crispy snap and soft, fluffy interior were perfect to dip in the accompanying beer cheese sauce.
the dining room at das bevo
When InBev bought Anheuser-Busch in early 2009, the Belgian-based beer behemoth bequeathed the building to the city, but the restaurant continued to flounder. A catering company used the kitchen for off-site events until last year, when the city requested proposals to redevelop the landmark.
to play on while their parents listen to live music, as I witnessed one afternoon. Inside, the Schuchards spent big bucks peeling away decades of tackiness and neglect to reveal Rookwood architectural tile flooring, a massive stone fireplace built to look like a castle, gorgeous stained glass and an intricately carved wood bar back.
Enter husband-wife team Pat and Carol Schuchard, who opened Das Bevo in May. (He’s a former painting professor; she’s an artist.) Like their other restoration projects – Majorette in Maplewood and Boo Cat Club in the Central West End – Das Bevo is spectacular. Outside, there’s a patio and covered Biergarten with whimsical accents like metal sculptures, topiaries and a vintage red fire truck perfect for kids
The main dining hall’s vaulted, woodbeamed ceiling, antlers and beer steins create an atmosphere somewhere between contemporary public house, German Bierhall, European castle and Alpine hunting lodge. It’s a stunner, for sure, but were it not for the elegant overstuffed green leather settees flanking the fireplace, the room’s sheer size, harsh lighting and televisions would make it difficult to cozy
AT A GLANCE das bevo
December 2017
Where 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.832.2251, dasbevo.com
Don’t-Miss Dishes Pretzels, cheddar-chives biscuits, Das Bevo Burger
Das Bevo’s relationship with Sugarfire Events ended over the summer, and the kitchen has gone through a couple of lead chefs since. That may explain why my order of the German classic Brathendl looked like a weak imitation of the thoughtfully presented dish I saw in many online photos. The ingredients were the same: a half spitroasted chicken on a bed of seasonal vegetables. But my bird was blackened compared to previously beautifully burnished skin. My coarse-cut carrots, green beans and red peppers were fresh and vibrant enough, but they used to be long and elegant with roasty edges. And where was that damn charred lemon half I saw in every photo? While I could see that a dry rub had been used on the chicken, it contributed nothing until I added a bit of salt to bring out its brightness. The brown blanket of beer-baconbratwurst gravy smothering the pork schnitzel, another nod to Bevo’s
Vibe Historic St. Louis landmark restored to its former glory
German heritage, will make you quiver with either excitement or fear, as may the layer of Gruyere hidden underneath. The scoop of carrot-sauerkraut slaw crowning the dish proved too little to cut through such extreme richness. But come mid-winter, my body will crave such savory salaciousness. Brunch runs the gamut from savory to sweet. Those soft and buttery, drop-style cheddar-chive biscuits were an obvious must. The South Side Florentine looked great and had all the flavor that two poached eggs covered in creamy spinach and melted Swiss cheese on a brioche bun could offer – though the yolks were slightly overdone and jammy. Tepid potatoes only accented the disappointment. The chicken schnitzel and waffles, though, was one of the better riffs of the southern dish, incorporating a breast, pounded thin and breaded, atop a yeasty Belgian waffle with a drizzle of maple syrup. I found the paltry selection of four German beers surprising, but the excellent selection of local and regional beers made up for it. The cocktail menu is extensive, with each drink named after a Busch family member, while the shorter wine list included a couple of Germans (a reisling and a sweet red) and a decent Italian pinot noir from a German family producer. A good soundtrack accentuates the dining experience. Unfortunately, I found Das Bevo’s curious and ill-fitting with the environment – ranging from ’50s and ’60s greatest hits to banal ’80s power pop. More curious was the level of service during my visits, ranging from clueless – resulting in misunderstood drink orders, long gaps between water refills and a familiarity verging on TMI – to frantic and distracted. It’s something that will need as much of attention as the resurrection of the building itself.
Entree Prices $9 to $18
When Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 11 a.m. to midnight, Sun. – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15
reviews LUNCH RUSH
LUNCH RUSH
kohn's kosher deli & restaurant BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
The case at Kohn’s Kosher Deli & Restaurant beckons with mounds of savory knishes, noodle kugel and all manner of meat, fish and fowl. The sandwiches are piled high, stacks of black-andwhite cookies charm, and the staff is friendly, efficient and a bit boisterous. Are we in New York City? No, no we are not. This little gem of a deli is in Creve Coeur. The food offers no surprises, but just like a beloved grandmother’s kitchen, every dish is exactly right.
KILLER PASTRAMI This is about as perfect as a sandwich can be, and a welcome reminder that the simplest things are often the most satisfying. The pastrami is deeply flavorful with edges rimmed in a peppery rub. Layers are sandwiched between your choice of bread – go for the rye. I had mine warm with the works: lettuce, tomato, onion, mustard and mayonnaise. The portion size is far from dainty, making it a great option when you’re dying for a killer sandwich.
SMOKED WHITEFISH PLATE The only tasting note I wrote after trying the smoked whitefish plate was A+. I was far too busy admiring the delicately smoky fish, which crowned a cream cheesesmeared everything bagel along with tomato and red onion. Every element was perfectly dialed in, from the chewy bagel and mild cream cheese to the acidic bite of the red onion and, of course, the fish. Be warned that a little deboning is required – a small labor for a truly exceptional lunch. If you don’t do bones, try the lox plate.
16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
kohn's kosher deli
CHICKEN CAESAR WRAP Is it weird to call a wrap elegant? Either way, that’s exactly what the chicken Caesar is. A standard flour tortilla enfolds perfectly seasoned, grilled and sliced chicken breast, tomato slices and an abundance of fresh, deep green romaine. Just enough house-made dressing added a punch of flavor without becoming gloppy and overburdened.
ASIAN SALMON SALAD Eating this salad is like jumping into a cold pool after sweating in a hot tub – damn refreshing. Not to mention it’s a literal rainbow on the plate. Every bite offered something different, from meaty red and yellow peppers to crisp sugar snap peas, crunchy noodles and tart mandarin oranges. The accompanying house teriyaki dressing tied it all together with a lovely hit of umami.
qualified to deem Kohn’s matzo ball soup a panacea for all that ails you. It’s simple as can be: large, soft matzo balls float in clear chicken broth. I almost never say this about restaurant soups, but it wasn’t too salty – the broth was clean, flavorful and perfectly seasoned. I already plan on demanding a cup next time I get sick, but you really don’t need an excuse.
MATZO BALL SOUP I have a weirdly intense love of soup, so I consider myself
THE DOWNSIDE Prepare to wait for your food if there’s high lunch traffic. The wait is absolutely worth it, but if you don’t have time to spare, you may want to shoot for an earlier meal.
Kohn’s Kosher Deli & Restaurant 10405 Old Olive Street Road, Creve Coeur, 314.569.0727, kohnskosher.com
December 2017
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17
18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
reviews NIGHTLIFE
but don’t prefer in a $9 drink from a nice bar. The Frazer’s Fashioned 2.0 was even stranger. It featured myriad ingredients, but was completely overpowered by the absinthe rinse. I could have just ordered a Jaeger.
NIGHTLIFE
frazer’s BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
F
rom decor to drinks to demographics, Frazer’s is as eclectic as an irreverent Benton Park bar should be, with swirling mosaics, kitchy lighting and serious but playful cocktails. It’s a place that generates regulars, and I can see why. Everyone is so inviting and relaxed that I was recognized on my second visit and chatted up a booth neighbor
O R D E R T H I S December 2017
– neither of which are typical bar experiences for me. Year-round, the cocktail menu features drinks labeled for all seasons. Spring and summer lean toward light and fruity, while fall and winter are fullbodied and herbaceous. Naturally, I looked to the fall menu. Each cocktail is cooled with dry ice for a mystical feeling
during mixing. The aptly named, herbal Witch’s Brew is made with chamomile-infused gin, Strega, honey, lemon, aromatic bitters and a maple meringue floating on top. A layered effect creates a soft froth over the sweet and sour treat, without any of eye of newt or toe of frog. The Vanity is literally served with a mirror on a silver platter. Navy-strength gin, China China, Contratto Apertif and Gran Classico are all
Forget your filet cravings and order the steak burger at Frazer’s.
The term “steak burger” should usually be truncated to just “burger” for accuracy, but this one earns its title. Simple seasoning Frazer’s and that sear make 1811 Pestalozzi St., for a patty that really St. Louis, 314.773.8646, does taste like some of frazersgoodeats.com the better steaks I’ve had. It made me care – which is something, considering burgers are everywhere. If you’re serving a burger with mashed potatoes instead of fries, they better be damn good mashed potatoes. These are. The flavor profile is like KFC’s, but with real potato reflected in this amaro delight. texture and more savory gravy. Even if the drink wasn’t delicious (it was), I’d have to talk about Frazer’s is known for its its whimsical fanfare. A platter seafood, and the New Orleans is also used to serve Always a BBQ Shrimp is a great way Riesen, but instead of a mirror, a to try it without breaking single wrapped candy sits next to the bank. My shrimp was a the flute. It’s bold to serve a drink bit overcooked, but I would right next to its inspiration, but order the dish again just to dip the brown cocktail stood up with everything in sight into that flavors remarkably similar to the spicy sauce. The creole-soaked candy. Chocolaty with the je ne French bread was a highlight. sais quoi of a Riesen, it’s sippable and not overly sweet. Frazer’s cheeky cocktails and enchanting food cast a spell. It’s With so much to celebrate on the a bar and restaurant dressed to menu, I was surprised by how impress without taking itself little I enjoyed the traditional too seriously. The dedication to Old-Fashioned. It replaced a strong food menu and great muddled fruit with fruity syrup – service will definitely charm me which I admit to doing at home, into another late-night tryst.
From classic concoctions to whimsical themed drinks, Frazer’s cocktail menu is not to be missed.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19
20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
dine
& drink this crowd-pleasing cabernet sauvignon is what you should bring your host this holiday season
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake We used to avoid Crème de Noyaux due to artificial flavorings, but Tempus Fugit’s version is changing our minds. Based on a 19th-century French recipe, the liqueur is distilled with cherry and apricot pits, then steeped with bitter almonds and botanicals. TED AND JAMIE Try it in a Pink Squirrel for a KILGORE decadent, creamy treat. In an iceUSBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart filled shaker, combine 1½ ounces and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House cream, 1 ounce Crème de Noyaux and 1 ounce Giffard Crème de Cacao. Shake vigorously, strain into a chilled cocktail glass, top with grated nutmeg and go nuts. $46. Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com December 2017
Everyone knows that wine beats fruitcakes, and the 2015 Textbook Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a delicious gifting red. Blended with 10-percent merlot, GLENN BARDGETT the big, balanced wine Member of the Missouri Wine really is a textbook and Grape Board and wine Napa cab. It’s also a rare director at Annie Gunn’s bargain, considering it was grown in the prestigious Napa districts of Oak Knoll and Oakville during a small harvest year and aged in French oak. $36. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
Premixed packs of beer make the best presents. During this season of giving, Sierra Nevada has you covered with a Snowpack filled with its classic pale ale, a spiced Wintertide Ale and two other knockout new seasonal releases – the KATIE HERRERA smooth and juicy Holiday Co-founder of Femme Haze IPA and super roasty Ferment and account manager at Craft Republic Coffee Stout. Whether you’re looking for a beautifully balanced, aromatic IPA or rich yet nuanced coffee and chocolate notes, this holiday package of goodies will warm up any shindig. $15. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23
BEER
old world beers to try now BY
KATIE
HERRERA
Experimental American brews are at the forefront of the international beer scene these days. With so many creative new styles and rif fs with unexpected flavors to tr y, it’s easy to forget iconic impor ts that have been around forever. During this season of tradition and indulgence, let’s not forget some of the classics that paved the way. These benchmark brews will please any beer histor y nerd on your gift list.
Samuel Smith Nut Brown Ale This Tadcaster ale is as British as they come. No nuts were harmed in the making of its exquisite nutty profile. Opening with aromatics dominated by lightly roasted malt and toffee notes, the ambercolored easy drinker finishes on the drier side. Mild fruit, caramel and an earthy bitter finish round out the maltworshippers’ dream. + $4.50. Friar Tuck, various locations, friartuckonline.com Trappistes Rochefort 10 Brewed by the Trappist monks of Rochefort Abbey, this granddaddy of all Belgian quads is quite possibly one of the most beautifully crafted beers to come out of the popular region. It pours a deep burgundy, almost black in color, and smells of dried fruit, caramel sweetness and alcohol. Vibrant notes of plum, raisin and cherry
blend with the rich texture, malt sweetness and alcohol warmth on the palate. + $6. Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com Guinness Draught It doesn’t have to be St. Paddy’s Day to enjoy this creamy nitrogenated beauty. Aromatics rich with coffee and chocolate are followed by a heavily roasted, maltforward flavor palate, all balanced by the velvety rich texture characteristic of those tiny little nitrogen bubbles. The world needs more nitro beer. + Prices vary. Dierbergs, various locations, dierbergs.com Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier A centuries-old German beer from the world’s oldest brewery (operating for nearly 1,000 years!), this unfiltered
24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
wheat beer exudes the stereotypical yeast-forward aroma of banana and clove. Straw yellow and mediumbodied, it has a characteristic fluffiness that drives flavors of citrus, spice and grain across the palate. Add a citrus wedge if you’re feeling festive. + Six-pack: $12. Randall’s, various locations, shoprandalls.com Vielle Provision Saison Dupont This benchmark Belgian farmhouse ale is complex
and mildly funky. Traditionally brewed as the thirst-quenching accouterment of the farmhand’s lunch break, this medium-bodied beer pours a hazy golden color and has a fruity, barnyard, yeast-forward nose. Flavor evolves from mild fruit and grain to light herbal notes and black pepper, finishing on the dry side. + $8. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com
Pilsner Urquell This radiant archetypal Czech Pilsner has left drinkers wanting more since 1842. A few good inches of frothy head emit a floral and crusty bread aroma, while the initial taste of grain and malt sweetness increases as the beer travels from glass to midpalate. True to form, this lady finishes with a refreshingly clean Saaz hop bitterness. + Six-pack: $8. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25
EFFICIENT KITCHEN
dried beans BY KELLIE HYNES // PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Beans are bullied l e g u m e s . They’re cruelly synonymous with disappointment (hill of beans), silly hats (beanies) and disrespected accountants (bean counters). Even worse, their foibles are laid bare in an anthem to magical fruit. Yet, beans carry on, holding their little bean heads high because, friends, they are nutritional powerhouses.
They’re packed with characterbuilding fiber, proteins, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. And they’re infinitely versatile, staring in main dishes, sides, salads, apps and, yes, even desserts. (I promise you, black bean brownies are a hundred times tastier than they sound.) As a vegetarian and thrifty shopper, I have long counted canned beans
among my pantry’s best friends. But it recently occurred to me that I could actually cook with those bagged dried beans instead of, you know, using them to make paper plate tambourines. Now, if you’re thinking that cooking beans “from scratch” is a waste of time, let me assure you, the resulting beans are far more flavorful and tender than anything you get from popping a top.
E A S Y P A S TA E CECI
26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
First, you’ll want to soak your beans overnight in brine, which is fancy talk for salt water. I use a little more than a tablespoon of kosher salt per quart of tap water, which is enough to cover a pound of dried beans. Technically the salt is optional, but I noticed significantly more bean-like flavor when the beans were brined rather than soaked in unseasoned water. The exception to the rule is black beans, which actually lost beany taste after their bath. Many fine folks simmer their beans on the stovetop. But I cannot devote an entire afternoon to stirring legumes, no matter how much I sympathize with the cause. Instead, I suggest a slow cooker for around three-and-a-half hours on high or seven-ish on low, with zero supervision. You will be richly rewarded with beans bearing firm skins and notmushy insides that will work like a champ in your favorite recipes. A pound of dried beans yields a whopping six cups cooked, which is roughly three to four cans’ worth. I like to freeze my leftover beans so they’re always on hand when a craving hits. Singing the bean song while you cook is entirely up to you.
SLOW-COOKER BEANS 6 CUPS 1 lb. dried beans* 5 tsp. kosher salt 18 cups water, divided • Rinse and pick through the dried beans, removing any rocks or fragments. • In a large container, stir the salt into 8 cups water. Soak the beans in the salt water at room temperature 8 to 24 hours. • Drain and rinse the beans, then place them in a 6-quart slow cooker with 10 cups fresh water. Cover and cook until tender, 3½ to 4 hours on high or 6 to 7 hours on low. Use immediately or freeze up to 3 months.
Av o c a d o H u m m u s In a food processor, combine 2 cups cooked chickpeas, the flesh of 2 ripe avocados, 2 tablespoons tahini, 1 tablespoon minced garlic and ½ teaspoon table salt and pulse until well combined. With the food processor running, pour in ¼ cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons lime juice. Add water 1 tablespoon at a time until the hummus reaches your desired texture. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve drizzled with 1 tablespoon olive oil and garnished with 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro. E a s y P a s ta e C e c i In a food processor, pulse 1½ cups cooked chickpeas 5 to 10 times, until flaky but not smooth. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, saute 1 diced small white onion in 1 tablespoon olive oil until browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the chickpeas, 3 cloves pressed garlic, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Cook 1 minute, then reduce the heat to low. Stir in 6 cups pasta sauce and cook until heated through. Serve over 1 pound hot cooked pasta. Garnish with grated Parmesan and fresh parsley. Mashed Bean Sammie Puree 1 cup cooked white beans with 4 teaspoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon minced garlic, 2 teaspoons white balsamic vinegar and kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Spread on toasted slices of multigrain bread. Top with cucumber slices, avocado and bean sprouts.
fresh baby spinach and cook 1 minute. Add 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 teaspoon ground cumin and ½ teaspoon kosher salt and cook 1 minute. Add 1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes with juices, 1 cup baked peeled, cubed sweet potato and 1 cup cooked black beans. Cook until heated through. Divide the sweet potato-black bean mixture evenly between 8 9-inch flour tortillas and roll into burritos. White Bean and Andouille Soup In a large stock pot over medium-high heat, saute 12 ounces chopped, cooked andouille in 1 tablespoon olive oil until browned. Use a slotted spoon to remove the sausage and set aside. Saute 1 cup each chopped carrots, celery and onion in the sausage drippings until soft, about 8 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons tomato paste, then the sausage, 6 cups chicken broth, 1 cup cooked white beans, 2 bay leaves and ½ teaspoon each kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Increase the heat to high, bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium or medium-high and simmer 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and serve.
AV O C A D O HUMMUS
B l ac k B e a n B u r r i to s In a large skillet over medium-high heat, saute 1 cup diced red onion in 1 tablespoon olive oil until browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in 1 cup packed
*Black beans don’t need to be soaked before cooking.
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
MAKE THIS HOLIDAY MEATBALLS
MAKE THIS These happy little appetizer bites taste like Sicilian Christmas. Using your hands, mix together 1 pound ground pork, ¼ cup currants, ¼ cup toasted pine nuts, 1 beaten egg, 2 tablespoons orange zest, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and ½ teaspoon ground cloves. Shape the mixture into 22 to 24 meatballs – about 1½ tablespoons each. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place about 8 meatballs in the skillet, leaving space between them, and cook 2 minutes. Flip the meatballs, cover the skillet and cook another 3 minutes. Repeat with remaining meatballs. Serve warm. – Dee Ryan
ACTIVE TIME: 15 MINUTES
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
To make a simple dipping sauce, combine 1 15-ounce can tomato sauce (we like Contadina Extra Thick & Zesty), ¼ cup dry red wine, ½ teaspoon ground fennel, 1 ∕8 teaspoon ground cloves, and salt and pepper to taste in a small saucepot. Place over medium heat until warm, then serve.
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29
30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31
vicia: this year's best new restaurant
32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
BEST NEW
WE ATE AT 150+ RESTAUR ANT S THIS YEAR. T HE S E 12 W E R E T HE B E S T.
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
RESTAURANTS by heather hughes, catherine klene, meera nagarajan & matt sorrell
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33
No.
01
VICIA
When something is as expected as naming Vicia the best new restaurant of 2017, you almost want to fight it. You want to know something big publications like Eater, Bon Appétit and Esquire don’t. (All have listed Vicia on national best new restaurant lists.) But you know what? Some things are expected for a reason. It’s hard to compare a food truck (Balkan Treat Box, No. 4) to a
34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
something fresh, stylish and clever to the local dining landscape.
weekends-only tasting menu experience (Privado, No. 2) to a bare-bones fastcasual spot serving one thing (St. Louis Soup Dumplings, No. 11). You have to assess each place on its own terms, and not just the qualifications of your personal preference. Vicia, objectively, attempts to do more than any other restaurant that opened in St. Louis this year. And from concept to menu, design, service and even a counter-service lunch option, it brings
Vicia is both familiarly hip and extreme in its farm-to-table, vegetableforward sensibilities. Owners Michael and Tara Gallina captured our attention when they moved from the culinary Ivy League of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York to open their own place, intending to work closely with farmers to support methods so sustainable they improve soil health (vicia is the name of a cover crop planted for that purpose) and to waste almost nothing – not even vegetable tops – in the kitchen.
left: vicia owners tara and michael gallina
opposite page: a rapid-fire first course from vicia’s tasting menu
“I’m really proud of what we’ve accomplished with all of that,” said Michael, executive chef to Tara’s general manager. Vicia tries to support individual farmers by asking for the produce they need to sell, not just making regular orders. “We get a farm delivery every single day, and we try to make the menu a celebration of what comes in. It drives [Tara] nuts, because we print
the menu three to four times a week sometimes.” That kind of improvisation isn’t some hipster buzzword claptrap. Think about how hard it is to dial in one dish at home – a constantly shifting menu means a moving target. Vicia has three: lunch, a la carte snack plates and family-style dinner mains, and a tasting menu with wine pairings. “We try not to waste anything,” Michael said. “The dynamic of lunch, a la carte and tasting menu really has to be very cohesive and synced with each other. If we’re running a pear salad on the a la carte menu, then the scrap has to be going into a puree for the tasting menu, or some of the other pieces that we’re cutting are going into Summer [Wright, Vicia’s executive pastry chef ’s], apple butter.” Logistics nerds are already sold. But to be the best, Vicia’s food had to be as good as the mission statement, and eye-rollers at the concept would still be enchanted by its dishes
December 2017
is how relaxed such knowledgeable and orchestrated service feels. “I’m trying to bring the touches of fine dining but in a setting that makes people feel like they can be themselves and not have to be nervous at the table that they’re putting their wine glass in the wrong place, you know?” Tara said. “None of that.” It’s typically impossible to hold a conversation during a tasting-menu dinner – the constant ceremony of plate transmission and wine pouring dominates the night. But the friendly, rationed visits from Vicia servers don’t feel like an interruption. “I don’t want people to think of it as, ‘Oh, that’s the tasting-menu spot – that’s the specialoccasion spot,’” Michael said. “It’s the place where you can have any kind of experience you want.”
PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
that are at once familiar and unlike anything you’ve ever tasted. A quick pick-two soup/ salad/sandwich lunch, for example, turns into something else when your cauliflower soup comes topped with popcorn powder. The fact that the lunch menu is not just fancy entrees priced down for midday makes it that much more impressive.
December 2017
The tasting menu starts with a flurry of small bites arriving at once. Simple, familiar luxuries like raw oysters – flown in from Maine for a late-summer menu – are suddenly surprising when topped with a watermelon granita. The same course featured two pieces of compressed watermelon rind that somehow tasted just like a puckering bite of pith and yet refreshingly
clean, crisp and mild at the same time. How do they do that? Other composed bites – like a rectangle of yellow watermelon topped with translucent slices of pickled green tomato, herbs and blooms beside a creamy dollop of whipped goat cheese – displayed perfect pitch in both texture and flavor combinations. All the plates worked
together in a larger symphony of individual movements. And that was just the first course. Even with so many plates and pairings, service doesn’t falter. It’s no surprise the staff can answer any question you have about a dish – they go on field trips to farms and other producers about once a month. What is surprising
Vicia’s space is designed with that in mind. Lightdrenched during the day and fashionably dim and energetic at night, the restaurant’s natural wood elements and massive white-paned windows make it feel both casually cool and sophisticated at the same time. It’s not easy to look so relaxed. So while Vicia has its share of surprises, its No. 1 spot on this list isn’t one of them. – H.H.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35
P R I V A D O
Reservations only. Open just two seatings on Friday and Saturday. Sixteen diners, max. A 12- to 15-course tasting menu that changes nightly. But don’t get the wrong idea. Privado is high-concept dining performed to a Bruce Springsteen soundtrack by a Midwestern chef who is genuinely having fun – and guests are having a blast, too. This is fine dining according to Mike Randolph. “I really wanted to prove to myself as much as anyone else that we could – in this particular market, two nights a week – change the way the people thing about a ‘fine dining’ experience,” Randolph said. Yes, there are a handful of seats at the bar, where those who still pine for Randolfi’s can walk in and select from a tight menu of pasta and snacks. Randolph even hosts occasional weeknight popups to stretch his creative muscles (curry, anyone?). But to truly experience Privado, book a reservation online and prepare for a three-hour multisensory meal. When you arrive, you feel like you’re in on a secret – sneaking into a restaurant for a private meal on the chef ’s day off. Swing by the open
36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
THE TOP
3
DISHES OF THE YEAR BY MICHAEL RENNER
1. Berkshire Pig at Vicia The best restaurant of the year also served the best pork dish. Cooked to butter-softness and finished on the grill for a hint of smoke, the small serving rivaled any chop. On my visit before Vicia switched to family-style mains, the pork was served with a rich assortment of shelling beans and wild blooms – don’t forget to order those separately.
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
2. Seared Lacquered Halibut at Polite Society
kitchen before service and chat with Randolph and his team (no starched chef whites here, just a couple of guys in baseball caps and aprons) while you sip an aperitif and snack on an amuse bouche served at the pass. That’s the whole point: to create a relaxed, organic interaction between diner and kitchen. “We want people to feel disarmed, like they can come in and be themselves,” Randolph said. As First Aid Kit’s cover of “America” cues up, settle in to the first course – perhaps Missouri paddlefish caviar December 2017
opposite page: privado dishes clockwise from left, hamachi with lardo and dashi, beef tartare with fermented turnips, and chocolate with porcini and hibiscus
top: from left, ryan mcdonald and privado chefowner mike randolph
atop a crema cloud – and feel free to audibly marvel. Everyone else is, and it gets louder as the wine pairings flow to a steady playlist of rock, bluegrass, soul and jazz. The meal features two- to three-bite dishes you’ll stretch into seven or eight nibbles just to study their complexity and savor the moment. Observe the crisp skin atop a meaty cube of pork belly and how it provides textural contrast to the unctuous liver (yes, liver) ice cream. Swoon over a raviolo stuffed with braised turnips and buried under a snowbank of white
truffle shavings, presented on its own hand-carved spoon. Swipe the perfect cylinder of mind-blowing Taleggio cheese wrapped in dried pear through vibrant sorrel ice cream. Wonder why on earth you never thought to pair earthy porcini mushrooms with rich dark chocolate ganache before now. Savor the last bite as Roy Orbison croons “It’s Over” and collect your thoughts between sips of Madeira and French-pressed coffee. You’ll never experience that meal again – and neither will anyone else. – C.K.
Glazed with miso butter and highlighted with ginger, this was the best piece of fish I ate in 2017. Serving it on a bed of aromatic jasmine rice congee with vegetables made it the best fish entree.
3. Grilled Octopus at Nixta Like a fool, I didn’t have the pulpo until months after I reviewed Ben Poremba’s upscale Mexican restaurant. With crispy tentacles and tender meat brightened by almond mole and garnished with charred lettuce, it’s no wonder this is Nixta’s most popular dish. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37
At Grace Meat & Three, Rick and Elisa Lewis answer to no one but themselves. “Grace is about our freedom and our liberation, honestly,” Rick Lewis said.
GR ACE ME AT + T HR EE
He is a familiar bearded face in the St. Louis restaurant scene. Diners have experienced Lewis’ take on comfort food since he left fine dining to take the helm of Quincy Street Bistro, his in-laws’ pub and grill in South City, in 2012. His birds at Southern led the flock during the fried chicken fury of 2015. “We went back and forth with what we wanted to do and probably the best option would be to keep it in the wheelhouse of what I enjoy cooking,” he said.
top left: dishes at grace meat & three
Devotees will notice subtle changes to well-known dishes and unexpected additions. Burgers are a combo of house-ground brisket and bottom round; the carnival-sized turkey leg is shockingly tender from overnight brining; a hummus starter is spiced up with harissa; the seasonal salad is tossed with a charred onion vinaigrette, a name that doesn’t do justice to its complex depth. “I feel like 90 percent of the time, no one notices but ourselves,” Lewis said. “What you do notice is people coming in … and going, ‘Man, the food just keeps getting better.’” – C.K.
top right: pide topped with ajvar and kajmak from balkan treat box
bottom: chef-owner rick lewis greets customers at grace
38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
No. 04
B A L K A N
Food trucks are restaurants. But there’s no sleek space, no cutting-edge decor – the food is the only attraction to draw diners in. Since Balkan Treat Box hit the road late last year, owners Loryn Feliciano-Nalic and her husband, Edo Nalic, have cultivated a dedicated following. The truck focuses on the cuisine of the Balkan States, and fans flock for a taste. Feliciano-Nalic, who has an extensive background in pastry, explored the food of the Balkans while visiting her in-laws in Bosnia. “I realized there was a lot of pastry in that food in general, even on the savory side, so it kind of spoke to me,” she said. Many of the truck’s rotating offerings are built on a base
T R E A T
B O X
of somun, a Balkan bread similar to a pita, and pide, a Turkish flatbread. FelicianoNalic makes her bread fresh daily in a wood-fired oven at the back of the truck. It’s the attention to detail that elevates Balkan Treat Box well above the norm. No thaw-and-go bread here. The condiments offered are subtle, meant to compliment but not overwhelm, like ajvar, a roasted red pepper spread; kajmak, a tangy cream cheese; and shredded purple cabbage for textural contrast. While the names of the dishes might seem foreign to some, the flavors and ingredients are ultimately familiar and comforting – peppery housemade sausage, chicken, onion, cheese and those fragrant, fresh breads. It’s just like being in Grandma’s kitchen, if Granny drove a truck. – M.S. December 2017
GRACE MEAT & THREE PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER; BALKAN TREAT BOX PHOTO COURTESY OF LORYN FELICIANO-NALIC
Yes, Grace Meat & Three serves the classic southern fare St. Louis has come to expect from Lewis: fried green tomatoes, griddled bologna sandwiches and, of course, fried chicken. But he never settles – even lowbrow ingredients are crucial to Lewis’ success. “You have to have Velveeta in your mac and cheese in order to make it creamy,” he said. “We’ve got $9-a-pound Gouda in there, and then we’ve got hunks of Velveeta – name brand, none of that fake stuff. It must be Velveeta, it must be Duke’s mayonnaise, and it must be Busch beer.”
C AT E Z O N E C H I N E S E C A F E It takes a lot for a Chinese restaurant to make a splash on Olive Boulevard, but Cate Zone Chinese Cafe’s regional cuisine has attracted lengthy wait times since it opened on the highly competitive corridor last November.
NUDO HOUSE
NUDO PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Nudo House, the noodle shop from Mai Lee’s Qui Tran and Marie-Anne Velasco, was years in the making. When instant gratification is the norm – we want what we want, and we want it yesterday – it’s nice to be reminded that some things are worth the wait. Unlike the voluminous menus found at many Asian restaurants, Nudo keeps things simple with a handful of cold apps like spring rolls and kimchi, vegetables sides and two bahn mi variations. Four versions of pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup Tran’s Mai Lee is famous for, are also on the menu. But the star of the show at Nudo is the ramen, the December 2017
traditional Japanese noodle dish that inspires untold obsessive devotion in so many diners. In those seeming eons of R&D, Tran and Velasco delved headfirst into the world of ramen, sampling versions from across the country and hosting pop-ups around town to keep up interest. At Nudo, there are four different versions that build on the basics, melding tradition with a distinctive creative bent. Standouts include the vegetarian Shroomed Out ramen, which deploys meaty, earthy king oyster mushrooms to delicious effect, and perhaps the ultimate in cross-cultural comfort cuisine, the Hebrew Hammer, a rich and creamy combo of tender ramen noodles and chicken schmaltz. Tuck in with a bowl and take your time. – M.S.
top left: the shroomed out ramen at nudo
top right: the korean cold noodle soup at cate zone chinese cafe
middle: from top, qui tran and marie-anne velasco
Cate Zone’s interior is casual and understated, adorned with black-andwhite photos of NYC and wallpaper crisscrossed with the names of subway stops. The distinct lack of flash, pageantry or stereotypical decor (not a dragon, shrine or fish tank in sight), puts all of the attention squarely where it belongs: on the food. Your server may not speak perfect English, but don’t be afraid to ask questions and solicit recommendations. The menu has plenty of familiar dishes – the sweet and sour pork, killer stir-fried noodles and crispy eggplant would please any palate – but Cate Zone sets itself apart by offering up a bevy of traditional favorites from northeastern China. Off-cuts make myriad adept appearances in dishes like pork jelly and tripe in chile sauce. Don’t miss the super fresh and healthy-feeling Korean cold noodle dish in a slightly sweet broth with cucumber and kimchi. Want to expand your culinary horizons? Get in the Zone. – M.S. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39
POLITE SOCIETY
THE U.R.B.
shelving to inspire a run on Restoration Hardware. Dishes are familiar, yet presented with unexpected touches – an herbaceous olive oil dip with aggressively caramelized Brussels sprouts or a lacquered halibut so delicate it melted into the accompanying miso-spiked jasmine congee.
A meal at Polite Society makes you feel like you’re hanging out in some sitcom Brooklynites’ open-concept living room, not snagging a seat at a slick new restaurant. Owners Jonathan Schoen and Brian Schmitz spent more than a year renovating the former home of Ricardo’s in
Lafayette Square into their dream business – a concept they’d been working on for much longer than that. Polite Society’s three rooms are reminiscent of a shotgun-style brownstone with exposed brick, refinished hardwood and enough open, salvaged
40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Wine from the extensive cellar flows; the congenial staff offers friendly, professional assistance and is quick with a recommendation. The space can be loud as friends linger over drinks, chatting with neighboring tables. As with any good dinner party, there’s no sense of urgency to depart. Order another bottle and pass it around as you enjoy good company and Polite Society. – C.K.
top left: the lacquered halibut at polite society, one of the top 3 dishes of the year
Walking in, you might think pizza isn’t the point here. The place exists for Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. to test new brews on customers who agree to give feedback. Food happens three rooms into the space, past an expansive U-shaped research bar that promises almost-free beer (a handful of constantly rotating 2-ounce pours for $1 cash when you take a survey). Who’s walking past that?
bottom left: the dining room at polite society
After you try those beers and take the survey (totally worth showing up for regardless), keep on walking to the pizza counter and pick out a slice or five along with an Urban Chestnut canned beer. True to UCBC’s Reverence & Revolution sensibilities, toppings range from classic cheese and pepperoni to international specials that don’t just sound good, but seriously follow through – like the complex and balanced Thai pie made with peanut sauce, serrano chile, chicken, pickled carrot and daikon, and cilantro. The quality of the food and ingredients live up to all expectations set by executive chef Andy Fair, who helms all UCBC’s food programs as director of restaurants. Do not miss the perfectly spiced house-made Italian sausage. But really, anything on that naturally leavened crust – light, crisp and chewy without being toothwrenching, and flavorful enough to eat alone – is worth your time. Now, is it prost or cincin? – H.H.
top right: the u.r.b. research bar
bottom right: slices at the u.r.b.
opposite page, from top: vegan pepperoni pizza from pizza head; pizza head owner scott sandler enjoying a slice
December 2017
PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Somewhere between New York and Neapolitan, the pizza at The U.R.B. (Urban Research Brewery) stuck with us like Instagram’s stupid heart arrow filter.
Pizza Head’s menu is a study in quintessence, just like the selection of classic punk records on its jukebox. Opening yet another pizza joint in St. Louis – let alone a punk-themed place where vegan and vegetarian options are front and center (Midwesterners love the animal protein, don’tcha know) – could seem like tilting at culinary windmills. But Pizza Head? It works.
PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
P I Z Z A H E A D
December 2017
Giant 20-inch New York-style pies or enormous triangular slices are the only size options. Toppings? Regular or vegan cheese, vegan meats and a small selection of fresh accouterments. Pizza Head pizzas, though, are much more than the sum of their humble parts. Pies are baked until the crust has just the right balance of chew and char. Eminently foldable, this is on par with the best “traditional” slice in town. Pair it with a can of Stag, put some Agent Orange on the box and dig in. – M.S. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41
H I - P O I N T E
D R I V E - I N
First off, try not to get distracted. There’s the Taco Burger, and sometimes silly, indulgent specials (grilled cheese buns, doughnuts, who knows), but this is your day. Burger day.
The burgers are good enough to land Hi-Pointe a spot on the list, but the rest of the menu is what makes this place a standout. A burger joint that offers a legit salmon banh mi and whose salads are interesting and satisfying – Greens & Grains, with its quinoa, wild rice and wheatberry base would be happy at any healthy cafe – is something special. – H.H.
42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
left: a loaded build-yourown hipointe drivein burger
right: xiao long bao at st. louis soup dumplings
opposite page: st. louis soup dumplings co-owner lawrence chen enjoying the fruits of his labor
ST. LOUIS SOUP DUMPLINGS
The name tells you everything you need to know. No salads, no entrees, no bar – St. Louis Soup Dumplings doesn’t try to do much, but what it does, it does exceptionally well. Its xiao long bao, which are also served at sister restaurant Private Kitchen, are some of the best you’ll find in St. Louis. Warm pockets of fragrant broth surround a variety
of pork-, beef-, chickenand crab-based meatballs, all embraced by thin, delicately folded wrappings. Go for the pork and crab, which features a funky, salty richness perfectly paired with the slurpable, aromatic broth. The minimalist decor echoes the short but flawless menu, with bamboo light fixtures reminiscent of steam
baskets hanging above bare-bones furnishings, and a charming soup dumplings mural warming up one wall. Quick counter service is supplemented by a surprise bowl of chicken broth before your order arrives and (at least when co-owner Emily Yang is working) friendly tableside visits to make sure you know how to properly eat your dumplings. – H.H. December 2017
PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
Hi-Pointe staff will probably treat you like a regular, which means they won’t sufficiently explain what’s happening, but don’t let the lack of direction put you off. Check the massive menu and make some choices. How many flavorful, tender, crispy-edged patties will it be? There’s no full list of toppings, so scope out the case and make a plan of action before your turn to order – cheese (duh), maybe an egg and bacon, and the regulars: mayo, lettuce, tomato, red onion. They’ll write the list on your tray, then you can watch your burger get all dressed up to meet you at the cash register.
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43
B E ST N EW R E STAU RANTS OF 2017
No.
1. Vicia 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com
SHAWARMA KING
3. Grace Meat & Three 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com
2. Privado 6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9221, privadostl.com
4. Balkan Treat Box 314.667.9926, Facebook: Balkan Treat Box 5. Nudo House 11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.274.8046, Facebook: Nudo House STL 6. Cate Zone Chinese Cafe 8148 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.738.9923 top: shawarma king owner mohammed alsalem
7. Polite Society 1923 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.325.2553, politesocietystl.com
bottom: the veggie platter at shawarma king
Tune into 90.7 F.M. KWMU for this month’s Sound Bites, when art director Meera Nagarajan and managing editors Heather Hughes and Catherine Klene discuss Sauce’s best new restaurants of 2017.
You don’t go to places like this for high-end service and ambiance, you go because the food is good. Like, really good.
44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
And affordable. Shawarma King’s plentiful lunch veggie platter, for instance, offers hummus, baba ghanoush, falafel, tabbouleh and pita for $8.99.
Owner Mohammed Alsalem, who grew up in Jordan, makes almost all the food himself. The falafel is crispy and fluffy, the baba ghanoush had a subtle smokiness, and the hummus is ultrasmooth and fresh. The tabbouleh is a musthave – its bright acidity is a nice complement to the menu’s richer items, particularly the tender, deeply flavorful beef shawarma, which Alsalem stacks and seasons by hand. Who cares if it’s on a paper plate? We’re ordering seconds. – M.N.
9. Pizza Head 3196 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.266.5400, www.pizzaheadstl.com 10. Hi-Pointe Drive-In 1033 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.349.2720, hipointedrivein.com 11. St. Louis Soup Dumplings 8110 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.445.4605, Facebook: Soup Dumplings STL 12. Shawarma King 571 Melville Ave., University City, 314.261.4833, Facebook: Shawarma King December 2017
PORTRAIT BY VIRGINIA HAROLD; FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID KOVALUK
8. The U.R.B. 4501 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.474.0935, urbpizzaandbeer.com
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45
stuff to do:
DECEMBER BY MAT T SORRELL
Shuck-A Thon Dec. 1 – 11 a.m. to 1 a.m., Demun Oyster Bar, 740 Demun Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0322, demunoysterbar.com This all-day shellfish extravaganza features a bevy of events, including a shucking competition, tutorials for DIY fans, food and drink specials and live entertainment from Mimi Le Uke. There’s also a toy and gift drive to benefit Family Forward, which supports area families in need.
Sugarplum Christmas Tea Dec. 2, 10, 17 and 23 – 11 a.m., La Patisserie Chouquette, 1626 Tower Grove Ave., 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com Enjoy a festive holiday tea service at La Patisserie Chouquette. Indulge in a menu of festive fare, including rosemary turkey with cranberry relish on wheat, English egg salad, glittered sugarplums (of course), eggnog panna cotta and a trio of teas, including mulled Christmas tea. Reservations required and available online or by phone.
46 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
End of Prohibition Wine Dinner Dec. 9 – 6 to 9 p.m., Mount Pleasant Estates, 5634 High St., Augusta, 636.482.9463, mountpleasant.com Raise a glass to celebrate the repeal of Prohibition. Enjoy a three-course dinner paired with Mount Pleasant wines, including crudités and dips paired with the winery’s sparkling wine, Waldorf salad and French onion soup with Villagio and New York strip or roasted Atlantic salmon accompanied by Norton. Then indulge in a chocolate fountain and vintage port. Reservations required and available by phone.
Brunch with Santa Dec. 16, 17 and 23 – 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., The Ritz-Carlton, 100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.719.1433, ritzcarlton.com Grab your wish lists and head to a bountiful brunch spread featuring local charcuterie and cheeses, seafood and sushi, carving stations and a plethora of desserts while hanging out with Santa and Mrs. Claus. On Dec. 16 and 17, Santa arrives in his sleigh pulled by Prancer to greet guests outside the hotel. Reservations required and available by phone.
S’mores Night Dec. 22 – 6 to 9 p.m., Sugar Cubed, 917 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.395.7365, sugarcubedcandy.com Make your own custom s’more creation at this monthly event in Sugar Cubed’s Zeppelin Room. Admission includes a choice of a drink, including hot chocolate or one of the shop’s 50 craft sodas, plus the makings for three s’mores. The selection of ingredients ranges from traditional graham crackers and chocolate bars to Oreos and Ritz crackers and candy bars like Reese’s peanut butter cups and Almond Joys.
Gatsby’s Speakeasy Dec. 30 – 7:30 to 11:30 p.m., Next Door at The Novel Neighbor, 7905 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, stlbestcellars.com BestCellars, the event series that combines food, drink and entertainment with literary themes, hosts this Roaring ’20s soiree. Admission gets you Prohibition-era cocktails from Sauce Magazine contributor Dee Ryan and food from chef Robin Wheeler of Subterranean Homemade Foods. Live music from Roya & The High Timers adds to the Jazz Age vibe. Tickets available online; a portion of the proceeds supports local nonprofit WeStories.
December 2017
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47
48 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 49
WHAT I DO
Reginald Quarles mission statement – is brewing better lives one leaf at a time. We encounter so much negativity on a daily basis, and we need a space to counter that, to make us feel safe. That’s why it’s so peaceful and clean-cut and relaxing. I feel like we need that.” “Before I opened this, I wo r k e d at a m e n ta l h e a lt h i n s u r a n c e c o m p a n y . I worked with
the critical incident team: robbery and homicide, suicide, major layoffs anywhere across the U.S. My job was to provide counselors to respond to it. … I was 27 at the time, and everyone else I worked with was fine with where they were at. They were complacent. I wanted to be more. I wanted to do more, so in June of last year, I walked out in the middle of the day.” “I took an extended t r i p t o N e w Y o r k , and I
spent a ton of time in Chinatown. I had this guide show me around. I like to call them secret tearooms because they’re so easy to miss. They’re probably smaller than the small space I was in at first, but there is so much knowledge and culture. I learned a ton.” “ Ev e ryo n e h a s t h e i r w a y o f m e d i t a t i n g . My
way of meditating is making tea. Sometimes I get a ton of meditating done in a day just because I make so many different teas.”
Reginald Quarles is a contradictory man. A competitive athlete obsessed with jujitsu, he’s also a peaceful vegan who loves Paulo Coelho and Deepak Chopra. After the sudden death of his mother two years ago, Quarles quit an unfulfilling career in insurance to open his teeny tea shop, Teatopia, on Cherokee Street in January. Less than a year after opening, he has a new, larger space down the block with around 70 teas and blends available. Here, Quarles shares his experiences with meditation, secret tearooms and finding balance. – Catherine Klene
and the more that you steep it and the hotter the water, that’s when those tannins start to release.” “ I ’ m c u r r e n t ly d r i n k i n g a t e a t h at ’ s c a l l e d p u - e r h t e a . Raw
pu-erh is the tea you would buy and probably give to your grandkids. It can take 20 years to age and ferment. All teas ferment to an extent. This tea takes a long time to ferment, and the idea is the longer it ferments, the better it will be. These tea leaves come from tea trees that are about 500 to 1,000 years old, if not older.” “J u j i t s u i s r e a l ly d i f f i c u lt b e c au s e i t ’ s l i k e c h e s s w i t h yo u r b o d y . That’s what it boils down
to. It’s getting in and out of certain situations and being able to protect yourself. When I compete, I’m at peace.” “ I ’ m a c t u a l ly s u p e r h a r d o n m y s e l f . It may
not seem like it, but I have a very high standard for myself. I have this belief that no one should want my goal more than I want it.”
Teatopia 2606 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.669.1464, teatopiastl.com
PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING
“The biggest thing b e h i n d T e a t o p i a – our
“ I f y o u u s e wat e r t h at i s t o o h o t f o r a white tea or a green t e a , it will scorch the tea leaf
and get really bitter and dry. Tea has tannins just like red wine has tannins,
50 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2017
December 2017
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 51